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Italian fashion house "D&G" redirects here. For other uses, see D&G (disambiguation) (/wiki/D%26G_(disambiguation)) . "Gabbana" redirects here. For the fashion designer, see Stefano Gabbana (/wiki/Stefano_Gabbana) . Dolce & Gabbana S.R.L. Location on Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) , Manhattan Company type Società a responsabilità limitata (/wiki/Societ%C3%A0_a_responsabilit%C3%A0_limitata) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Design Beauty Real Estate Founded 1985 ; 39 years ago ( 1985 ) Legnano (/wiki/Legnano) , Italy Founders Domenico Dolce (/wiki/Domenico_Dolce) Stefano Gabbana (/wiki/Stefano_Gabbana) Headquarters Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Area served Worldwide Key people Alfonso Dolce (/w/index.php?title=Alfonso_Dolce&action=edit&redlink=1) , CEO Products Fashion - RTW and accessories Watches and Jewelry Design Beauty - fragrance and make-up Food and Beverage Revenue €1.5 billion (2021) [1] (#cite_note-zippia-1) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €60.5 million [2] (#cite_note-businessinsider-2) Number of employees 3150 (2021) [1] (#cite_note-zippia-1) Website dolcegabbana.com (https://www.dolcegabbana.com/) Dolce & Gabbana ( Italian pronunciation: [ˈdoltʃe (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) e (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ɡabˈbana] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ), [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) also known by initials D&G , is an Italian luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) [5] (#cite_note-Vernon-5) founded in 1985 in Legnano (/wiki/Legnano) by Italian designers Domenico Dolce (/wiki/Domenico_Dolce) and Stefano Gabbana (/wiki/Stefano_Gabbana) . [6] (#cite_note-6) The house specializes in ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) , handbags, accessories, cosmetics, and fragrances and licenses its name and branding to Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) for eyewear. [7] (#cite_note-7) History [ edit ] Early history [ edit ] Dolce&Gabbana founders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana met each other in 1982 while working for Giorgio Corregiari, an Italian fashion brand. Domenico Dolce (/wiki/Domenico_Dolce) was born on August 13, 1958 (/wiki/1958) , in Polizzi Generosa (/wiki/Polizzi_Generosa) , while Stefano Gabbana (/wiki/Stefano_Gabbana) was born on November 14, 1962 (/wiki/1962) , in Milan (/wiki/Milan) . Dolce began designing and making his clothes at the age of six. In 1983, the two established their own design consulting studio, which they named "Dolce & Gabbana". [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) Their first women's collection debuted in 1985 [9] (#cite_note-Givhan2012-9) at the New Talents section of Milan Fashion Week (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) , and the following year, they opened their first store in Milan. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) [10] (#cite_note-:4-10) The first meeting between the two happened over the phone when Dolce called the fashion company where Gabbana was working, looking for a job. After being hired by the company, Gabbana took Dolce under his wing and taught him the workings of a fashion company and how to sketch (/wiki/Sketch_(drawing)) new designs. Shortly after Dolce's hiring, Gabbana was drafted for 18 months of civil service at an institution for the mentally ill, but after his return, the two created a design consulting business. [11] (#cite_note-11) The company's 1986 Spring and Summer (SS) collection, titled Geometrissimo was presented alongside other fashion labels. [9] (#cite_note-Givhan2012-9) [12] (#cite_note-BPRT-12) Dolce & Gabbana did not have enough money to hire models or provide them with accessories, so they sought help from their friends. Their friends served as models and wore their personal items to accessorize the clothing. A bed sheet from Dolce's home was used as their stage curtain. [13] (#cite_note-13) In March 1986, Dolce & Gabbana released their first self-produced collection, Donne Vere/Real Women, for the Fall and Winter (FW) 1986/87 season. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) The name of the collection was influenced by the local women who served as models on the runway. [12] (#cite_note-BPRT-12) However, sales were initially disappointing, and Gabbana canceled the fabric order for their second collection. Dolce's family later offered to help with costs during a visit to Sicily (/wiki/Sicily) over Christmas. Incidentally, the fabric company did not receive the cancellation notice in time, and the fabric was ready for them when they returned to Milan. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) In September 1986, Dolce&Gabbana presented the SS 1987 Women's fashion show entitled Trasformismo .Despite working together, they always invoiced separately until an accountant advised them to invoice jointly to simplify things and make the business more cost-effective. The two began invoicing clients under the name Dolce and Gabbana, which became the name of their developing design business. They produced their next collection in 1986 (/wiki/1986) and opened their first store the same year. [14] (#cite_note-14) The fashion house continued to gain recognition, and in 1987, Dolce & Gabbana presented the Women's SS 1988 fashion show, entitled Il Gattopardo/The Leopard line . The following year, they began designing underwear and swimwear, and by 1990, the company was exporting their products to Japan and the United States. In the same year, they launched their first perfume, Dolce&Gabbana Pour Homme and Dolce&Gabbana Pour Femme , produced and distributed by Euroitalia. [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) In 1990 the company opened its first women's boutique in Via Sant'Andrea, Milan. [12] (#cite_note-BPRT-12) Michael Gross (/wiki/Michael_Gross_(American_writer)) wrote of their third collection in a 1992 interview, "They were a secret known only to a handful of Italian fashion editors. Their few models changed behind a rickety screen. They called their collection of T-shirt-cotton and elastic-silk pieces, Transformation." The clothing in this collection came with instructions on the seven different ways a piece could be worn in an outfit, as the wearer could use Velcro (/wiki/Velcro) and snaps to alter the clothing's form. [17] (#cite_note-MGNYM-17) Dolce & Gabbana's fourth collection, influenced by Dolce's Sicilian roots, made an impact on the Italian fashion market. In this collection, Dolce drew on his Sicilian roots. The collection's advertising campaign was shot in Sicily by photographer Ferdinando Scianna (/wiki/Ferdinando_Scianna) and featured Dutch model Marpessa Hennink (/wiki/Marpessa_Hennink) in black and white pictures reminiscent of Italian cinema from the 1940s. [18] (#cite_note-italia-18) [19] (#cite_note-clase-19) The brand's use of Italian cinema as a theme continued in their fifth collection, which drew upon the work of filmmaker Luchino Visconti (/wiki/Luchino_Visconti) and his film The Leopard . [12] (#cite_note-BPRT-12) One of the dresses from their fourth collection, called The Sicilian Dress , became iconic for the brand and was named one of the 100 most important dresses ever designed by author Hal Rubenstein. The dress is considered to be the epitome of Dolce & Gabbana's style, with a slip-like silhouette that emphasizes the figure and flares out at the knees to create a swaying motion when walking. [20] (#cite_note-HB-20) Hal Rubenstein described the piece in 2012, writing: "The Sicilian Dress is the essence (/wiki/Essence) of Dolce & Gabbana, the sartorial cornerstone of the brand. The dress takes inspiration from a slip, but it is a slip that adorned Anna Magnani (/wiki/Anna_Magnani) , and it is a silhouette that graced Anita Ekberg (/wiki/Anita_Ekberg) , Sophia Loren (/wiki/Sophia_Loren) , and so on. The straps fit tightly to the body just like those of a bra; the neckline runs straight but is pinned at least twice, once on each side, to caress the two breasts and in the middle to meet an uplifting fold that provides slight support. The slip does not simply fall down but rises at the waist to hold the figure firmly but not too tightly, and then flares out to emphasize the hips, falling slightly tapered at the knees, ensuring the swaying of the hips while walking." [21] (#cite_note-21) 1980s and 1990s [ edit ] In 1987, Dolce & Gabbana launched their first knitwear collection line, [22] (#cite_note-22) and in 1989, they started an underwear and beachwear collection. In the same year, they launched their first women's fashion show in Tokyo and opened their first store in Japan in partnership with Kashiyama Co. [23] (#cite_note-BIOCH-23) In April 1990, they held their first fashion show in New York, started exporting their products to the United States, and founded their own showroom. That same year, Dolce&Gabbana presented the first Men's FW 1990/1991 collection. [24] (#cite_note-VSB-24) The collection features linear-cut garments, characterized by dark and solid shades, such as black, gray and burgundy. The common thread of the collection is the high-waisted trousers, combined with shirts, wool sweaters and blazers. [24] (#cite_note-VSB-24) In 1990 as well, the brand moved the design house into its first official offices. [24] (#cite_note-VSB-24) The company also began to design gowns and other more expensive pieces in addition to their original clothing. [17] (#cite_note-MGNYM-17) Their 1990 Spring/Summer women's collection, featured in the Gli Anni '60 women's fashion show, referenced the mythological painting of Raphael (/wiki/Raphael) , and the duo began to build a reputation for crystal-encrusted clothing. [25] (#cite_note-:9-25) The 1991 Fall/Winter women's collection was also adorned by trinkets, including filigree (/wiki/Filigree) medals and embellished corsets (/wiki/Corset) . The 1992 Fall/Winter women's collection was then inspired by the silver screen of the 1950s, though the collection still included crystal embellished body suits. [25] (#cite_note-:9-25) In 1991, their men's collection won the Woolmark Award for the most innovative men's collection of the year. [23] (#cite_note-BIOCH-23) Madonna (/wiki/Madonna_(entertainer)) wore a corset made of gemstones and an accompanying jacket from Dolce & Gabbana at the 1991 New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) premiere of Truth or Dare (/wiki/Madonna:_Truth_or_Dare) : In Bed with Madonna, which is considered their first foray into international recognition. The duo partnered with Madonna in 1993 to design over 1500 costumes for the artist's Girlie Show international tour in support of her 1992 album Erotica (/wiki/Erotica_(Madonna_album)) . [24] (#cite_note-VSB-24) In 1994, the house's trademark double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) jacket was named "La Turlington" after model Christy Turlington (/wiki/Christy_Turlington) . That same year the company launched the D&G brand, a line produced and distributed by Ittierre, aimed at younger individuals. In 1993, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme was awarded the Perfume Academy's 1993 award for best feminine fragrance of the year; Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme , was the recipient of the best masculine fragrance of the year award from the same academy in 1995. [26] (#cite_note-26) They won an "Oscar des Parfums" for best male perfume in 1996 from the French Parfum Academy, the first time ever that the title has been awarded to an Italian brand. Towards the end of the 1990s their sales were around $500 million and in 2003 alone, their revenue reached $633.2 million. In 1990, they launched their first men's collection. [24] (#cite_note-VSB-24) That year, they also moved the design house into its first official offices and began to design gowns and other more expensive pieces in addition to their original clothing. [17] (#cite_note-MGNYM-17) Their 1990 Spring/Summer women's collection referenced the mythological painting of Raphael (/wiki/Raphael) , and the duo began to build a reputation for crystal-encrusted clothing. The 1991 Fall/Winter women's collection was also adorned by trinkets, including filigree (/wiki/Filigree) medals and embellished corsets (/wiki/Corset) . The 1992 Fall/Winter women's collection was then inspired by the silver screen of the 1950s, though the collection still included crystal embellished body suits. [25] (#cite_note-:9-25) In 1993, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme was awarded the Perfume Academy's 1993 award for best feminine fragrance of the year; Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme , was the recipient of the best masculine fragrance of the year award from the same academy in 1995. [27] (#cite_note-27) In 1995, the brand presented the SS 1996 Women's fashion show, Le Eolie , featuring garments with leopard and zebra prints. That same year Dolce & Gabbana's collections caused a controversy with the British and Italian press, when they selected the American gangster motif as inspiration for their work. [28] (#cite_note-28) The brand transposed this Fall/Winter 1995 inspiration onto women's wear, which critics stated brought an erotic edge to the clothing. The duo had used the motif before in 1992 when photographer Steven Meisel (/wiki/Steven_Meisel) shot an ad campaign for the house in which the models posed in "gangster chic". This included wide-lapelled 1930s style coats and black leather caps. [29] (#cite_note-29) In 1996 the D&G runway show was streamed on the Internet instead of being held on a physical runway, in an experimental move towards new media. That year Dolce & Gabbana also designed the costumes for the film Romeo + Juliet (/wiki/Romeo_%2B_Juliet) . [30] (#cite_note-VGP-30) 2000s [ edit ] Dolce&Gabbana worked with various musical artists in the 2000s, designing costumes for Madonna's Drowned World Tour (/wiki/Drowned_World_Tour) in 2001, Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) , Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , and Mary J. Blige (/wiki/Mary_J._Blige) 's international tours and Whitney Houston (/wiki/Whitney_Houston) 's My Love Is Your Love (/wiki/My_Love_Is_Your_Love) tour. [30] (#cite_note-VGP-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) Additionally, they designed costumes for Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) 's Showgirl Homecoming (/wiki/Showgirl_Homecoming) tour and featured Madonna in their 2010 advertising campaigns. [20] (#cite_note-HB-20) During this time, Dolce & Gabbana drew inspiration from the sport of football, and their designs continued to influence trends in both fashion and music. [24] (#cite_note-VSB-24) [33] (#cite_note-33) In 2002, their early corset designs were revived by many European designers as a trend. [34] (#cite_note-34) The brand also began holding private viewings of their new collections for buyers to pre-empt the copying of their designs by fast fashion companies (/wiki/Fast_fashion) . [35] (#cite_note-35) In 2006, the company started a new journey in accessories and leather goods for men and women. In the same year, the brand launched a controversial ad campaign featuring two men kissing, which received criticism from some conservatives. However, the Advertising Standards Authority of Italy did not find the ad unacceptable for broadcast solely based on the depiction of two men kissing. [36] (#cite_note-36) In February 2009, the Dolce&Gabbana makeup line was launched. Dolce & Gabbana created their first makeup in collaboration with make-up artist Pat McGrath (/wiki/Pat_McGrath_(make-up_artist)) . Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) appeared as the face of the advertising campaign for this new venture. [37] (#cite_note-37) 2010s [ edit ] Stefano Gabbana (left) and Domenico Dolce (right) in 2016 In 2011, Dolce&Gabbana merged with D&G, with the aim of strengthening the main line. The final independent D&G collection was the Spring/Summer 2012 collection shown in September 2011. [38] (#cite_note-38) The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) publication in 2005 stated that, "Dolce and Gabbana are becoming to the two-thousands what Prada (/wiki/Prada) was to the nineteen-nineties and Armani was to the nineteen-eighties—designers whose sensibility defines the decade." [39] (#cite_note-TNY-39) In terms of personal awards, FHM (/wiki/FHM) named Dolce & Gabbana as the designers of the year in 1996 and 1997. In 2003, GQ Magazine (/wiki/GQ_Magazine) awarded Dolce & Gabbana the title of "Men of the Year". The following year, British Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) readers voted Dolce & Gabbana as the best international designers at the 2004 Elle Style Awards (/wiki/Elle_Style_Awards) . [40] (#cite_note-AWD-40) On 19 June 2010, Dolce&Gabbana celebrated the 20th anniversary of their brand at the Piazza della Scala and Palazzo Marino (/wiki/Palazzo_Marino) in Milan. The following day, a public exhibition was held which included a room with several dozen televisions piled haphazardly upon each other, each displaying a different collection from the design house's twenty-year history. [41] (#cite_note-41) In 2019, Dolce & Gabbana extended its size range up to UK 22, making them one of the first luxury fashion houses to move towards body positivity and inclusivity for women. While most luxury fashion houses cater to women of sizes up to UK 16, Dolce & Gabbana took the initiative to extend their size range for greater inclusivity. [42] (#cite_note-42) 2020s [ edit ] In September 2021, Dolce&Gabbana collaborated with UNXD to issue Collezione Genesi NFT , its first non-fungible token (NFT) collection. The collection consisted of nine pieces, including five physical and four digital creations, such as "Glass Suit" and "Impossible Tiara", and was sold for 1,885.719 Ether (equivalent to nearly $5.7 million). This collaboration with UNXD was a significant move towards the incorporation of blockchain technology into the fashion industry, and was widely reported by publications such as Vogue and The New York Times as being one of the first NFT collections created by a major fashion house. [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) Dolce&Gabbana collaborated with the British-American designer Harris Reed (/wiki/Harris_Reed) to present Somali model Iman Abdulmajid (/wiki/Iman_Abdulmajid) at the 2021 Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) fashion event in New York City. Harris Reed stated that fashion has a responsibility to spark conversation around social injustices. Iman, who faced institutional racism as a model, and founded a cosmetics line for women of color in 1994, was seen as an ideal collaborator to create a statement on the red carpet. [45] (#cite_note-45) In 2022, Dolce&Gabbana teamed up with American celebrity Kim Kardashian to produce the Ciao Kim collection. [46] (#cite_note-46) The collection predominantly showcased black, white, and silver clothing with embellishments such as lace, crystals, and leopard prints. [47] (#cite_note-47) Later, in February 2023, Kim Kardashian was introduced as the face of D&G's Spring/Summer 2023 collection in campaign photos shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (/wiki/Mert_and_Marcus) . [48] (#cite_note-48) Dolce&Gabbana has a history of co-branding with various Italian companies such a Baci Perugina [49] (#cite_note-49) Fiasconaro [50] (#cite_note-name-50) [51] (#cite_note-51) Murano glass company, Barovier & Toso, Mian, I Dogi, Venini, Barbini, Salviati, and Tessiture Bevilacqua, among others. [52] (#cite_note-dgvogue-52) These collaborations have been an integral part of the brand's marketing strategy for many years. In 2023, Dolce&Gabbana won the Craft and Artisanship Award at the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards. [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) Brand extensions [ edit ] A pair of Dolce & Gabbana's Golden Sneakers Dolce & Gabbana operated two distinct lines, D&G and Dolce&Gabbana, until 2011, when the lines merged under the label Dolce & Gabbana. Dolce&Gabbana [ edit ] Dolce&Gabbana (spelled without spaces, unlike the name of the company) is a luxury fashion brand that draws inspiration from high-end designs and specializes in timeless and formal products that respond to both long-term trends and seasonal changes. [55] (#cite_note-AAB-55) In 2010, the brand announced a collaboration with American singer Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) to create a collection of sunglasses named MDG, which was released in May of that year. [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) In addition to fashion items, Dolce&Gabbana offers fragrances for both men and women, with one example being 'The One' perfume. D&G [ edit ] D&G was a fashion diffusion line (/wiki/Diffusion_line) of Dolce&Gabbana, characterized by a youthful and expressive design philosophy. Unlike Dolce&Gabbana, which primarily focused on clothing, D&G also offered watches produced by Naloni and Binda Group (/wiki/Binda_Group) . However, in 2011, Dolce&Gabbana made a strategic decision to discontinue the D&G line in order to prioritize the growth of their other collections. This was done to concentrate "more strength and energy" towards their main line. [58] (#cite_note-NY_Mag-58) Other product lines [ edit ] Bridal collection [ edit ] Dolce&Gabbana has diversified its offerings over the years with a range of products. In 1992, they created a bridal collection, which was discontinued in 1998. Underwear and Beachwear [ edit ] The first women's beachwear collection was developed in 1989, followed by the first men's beachwear collection in 1992. In 2000, D&G launched both a men's and women's underwear collection, separate from their Dolce & Gabbana lingerie collection. Eyewear [ edit ] D&G launched an eyewear line in 1998 and a timepieces line in 2000. Junior Collection [ edit ] In 2001 they launched the D&G Junior line for children. Anamalier collection [ edit ] In 2006 the duo launched the Anamalier line of leopard print accessories for women, and in 2007 they launched a line of crocodile (/wiki/Crocodile) travel cases for men. Other bags produced by the house include the Miss Sicily tote bag, [59] (#cite_note-59) and the "Dolce" bag, offered in straw and leather. [60] (#cite_note-60) Cosmetics [ edit ] In 2009, they launched their first line of color cosmetics, [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) with Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) as the face of the advertising campaign. [62] (#cite_note-Scarl-62) Jewelry [ edit ] Dolce & Gabbana launched its first line of fine jewellery in late 2011 with an 80-piece line including bejewelled rosaries, charm bracelets, and necklaces. [63] (#cite_note-63) They later launched a fine jewellery collection for men. [64] (#cite_note-64) Perfume [ edit ] Dolce & Gabbana have received several awards for their fragrances, as was described in the above sections. Their current fragrances include: "The One", "Sport", " Light Blue (/wiki/Light_Blue_(fragrance)) ", "Dolce", "Classic", "Sicily", "The One Rose", and the original scents "Pour Homme" and "Parfum". [65] (#cite_note-65) On 16 October 2014, the company announced that Colin Farrell (/wiki/Colin_Farrell) would be the face of their new fragrance called "Intenso." [66] (#cite_note-66) Alta Moda [ edit ] This section is in list (/wiki/MOS:LIST) format but may read better as prose (/wiki/MOS:PROSE) . You can help by converting this section (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dolce_%26_Gabbana&action=edit) , if appropriate. Editing help (/wiki/Help:Editing) is available. ( September 2022 ) Alta Moda was launched in 2012, inspired by Giovanni Battista Giorgini (/wiki/Giovanni_Battista_Giorgini) 's efforts to promote Italian fashion and Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) brands abroad. Over the years, the concept behind the project's idea of couture was to pay a tribute to the Italian domestic artisanship in all its expressions and to its tailoring tradition. Since its first runway show, Dolce&Gabbana has presented new collections at Italian landmarks such as Teatro alla Scala (/wiki/Teatro_alla_Scala) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Piazza San Marco (/wiki/Piazza_San_Marco) in Venice (/wiki/Venice) or Temple of Concordia, Agrigento (/wiki/Temple_of_Concordia,_Agrigento) . [67] (#cite_note-leitchvogue-67) The main lines of the Alta Moda: Alta Moda – Women's line Alta Sartoria – Men's line Alta Gioielleria – Men's and Women's line Alta Orologeria – Men's and Women's line Timeline [ edit ] July 2012 – Taormina. The first Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda presentation takes place in Taormina (/wiki/Taormina) , Sicily (/wiki/Sicily) , and consists of 73 designs that highlighted the Italian artisanship. The show began with a launch of Bellini's Bel Canto opera Norma in the ancient Roman amphitheater, followed by the event next day in the former monastery of San Domenico. [68] (#cite_note-68) The first autumn/winter collection was made in keeping with the traditions of Sicilian historical periods, including modern adaptation of Luchino Visconti (/wiki/Luchino_Visconti) 's The Leopard (1963 film) (/wiki/The_Leopard) radiating the changes in Sicilian life and society during the Risorgimento (/wiki/Risorgimento) . [69] (#cite_note-69) [70] (#cite_note-70) 2013 – Milan/Venice. Dolce&Gabbana presents its first Alta Moda in Milan. The Collection was influenced by the symbols of the city. [71] (#cite_note-71) Dolce&Gabbana presented its third Alta Moda Collection in the frescoed halls of the historic Palazzo Barbaro in Venice overlooking the Grand Canal. The collection event was in part influenced by Byzantine and Venetian cathedral mosaics. The fashion show was followed by a masked ball inside another historic Venetian palace - Palazzo Pisani Moretta. [72] (#cite_note-72) 2014 – Milan/Capri. Impressionist and Modern Art Collections were demonstrated in La Scala, Milan's 18th-century opera house with the flower style designs. Dolce&Gabbana presented the Alta Moda Collection on the island of Capri. [73] (#cite_note-73) 2015 – Milan/Portofin. Dolce&Gabbana presented the Alta Moda Collection in the Toscanini foyer of Teatro alla Scala . Alta Sartoria and Alta Gioielleria Collection amplified couture line for men and women upheld in the Palazzo Labus, a 17th-century building in Corso Venezia, [67] (#cite_note-leitchvogue-67) [74] (#cite_note-74) followed by the new Alta Moda, Alta Sartoria and Alta Gioielleria Collections during a 4-day event in Portofino in July. The Portofino collection was influenced by William Shakespeare (/wiki/William_Shakespeare) 's A Midsummer Night's Dream (/wiki/A_Midsummer_Night%27s_Dream) and became one of the designers' biggest productions with 94 models and 80 performers taking part in the show. [75] (#cite_note-75) [76] (#cite_note-76) [77] (#cite_note-77) 2016 – Milan/Naples. Alta Moda in Milan was dedicated to Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (/wiki/Elvira_Leonardi_Bouyeure) , a notable Italian fashion designer and couturier of the post-war period who lived in the same city. The events started with the presentation of the Alta Gioielleria inside the Alta Moda Salons of Via Senato. The following day, the historic Palazzo Labus hosted the Alta Sartoria fashion show. The collection included lines for men and women as well as "molto Italiano" - Alta Moda jewellery craftsmanship that reflected historic art influence, such as painted vistas of Venice. Milan's La Scala was the stage of the Alta Moda show: the clothes were influenced by the heroines of the operas of the composer Giacomo Puccini (/wiki/Giacomo_Puccini) . [78] (#cite_note-78) [79] (#cite_note-79) Villa Pignatelli was the location for the presentation of the new Alta Gioielleria creations and Castel dell'Ovo was the setting for the Alta Sartoria fashion show. [80] (#cite_note-80) 2017 – Milan/Palermo. Alta Moda Milan fashion show took place inside the laboratories of Teatro alla Scala in Milan, former Ansaldo steelworks. The Alta Gioielleria creations were presented inside the Alta Moda Salons in Via Senato while, the stage of Teatro alla Scala hosted the Alta Sartoria fashion show; the collection was entirely dedicated to the Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi (/wiki/Giuseppe_Verdi) and his masterpieces. During the Men's show, were presented the first four examples of Alta Orologeria. [81] (#cite_note-81) [82] (#cite_note-82) April 2017 – Tokyo, Japan and Beijing, China. On April 13, Dolce & Gabbana presented its Alta Moda womenswear and Alta Sartoria menswear collections at the National Museum of Tokyo, a tribute to the Japanese culture and Italian tradition: Asian engravings and references to Renaissance painting, oriental and Baroque styles. [83] (#cite_note-83) One week later, the Peninsula Hotel in Beijing hosted the Ode to China Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria fashion show dedicated to the Chinese arts culture. [84] (#cite_note-84) July 2017 – Palermo. Alta Moda Palermo was held in Pretoria Square in the historical center of Palermo. Palazzo Gangi hosted the presentation of the new Women's Alta Gioielleria creations; for the first time, a Collection of Men's Alta Gioielleria pieces were showcased at Palazzo Mazzarino. The Alta Moda looks illuminated Piazza Pretoria, while the setting for the Alta Sartoria fashion show was the Cathedral of Monreale (/wiki/Monreale_Cathedral) . [85] (#cite_note-85) [86] (#cite_note-86) April 2018 – New York, USA and Mexico City, Mexico. Dolce&Gabbana brought the Grand Tour to New York, where the 4-day events opened with the presentation of the Alta Gioielleria Collection, hosted by Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) at the New York Public Library (/wiki/New_York_Public_Library) , where she auctioned off Dolce & Gabbana jewelry and her dress for charity, and fashion shows featuring iconic New York landmarks and supermodels like Karlie Kloss (/wiki/Karlie_Kloss) and Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) . [87] (#cite_note-87) The Alta Sartoria fashion show took place at the Rainbow Room of Rockefeller Center and the Alta Moda show was staged at the Metropolitan Opera House. [88] (#cite_note-88) [89] (#cite_note-89) A few days after the events in New York, Dolce & Gabbana showcased their Alta Moda collection in Mexico City on April 18. [90] (#cite_note-:42-90) The collection, inspired by Mexican culture, blended elements like rebozos, vibrant colors, and Frida Kahlo (/wiki/Frida_Kahlo) -inspired hairstyles with the brand's signature Baroque style. The runway event took place at the Soumaya Museum (/wiki/Museo_Soumaya) and featured Mexican influencers such as Juan Pablo Zurita, Diego Boneta, and Mariana Zaragoza, highlighting Mexico's growing influence in the fashion industry. [90] (#cite_note-:42-90) [91] (#cite_note-91) 2018 – Como/Milan. In 2018, the show was held on the shores of the lake Como. The presentation of the new Alta Gioielleria creations was held on the Steamship Concordia sailing towards Bellagio. The Alta Moda show took place at the Teresio Olivelli Park in Tremezzina. The collection was a tribute to the first historical novel of Italian literature, The Betrothed. Villa Carlotta was the location for the Alta Sartoria show. [92] (#cite_note-92) Among the top models who presented Alta Moda collection were Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) , Eva Herzigova (/wiki/Eva_Herzigova) and Helena Christensen (/wiki/Helena_Christensen) . [93] (#cite_note-93) [94] (#cite_note-94) 2019 – Agrigento/Milan. Alta Moda 2019 was first held in Agrigento, a city on the southern coast of Sicily with more than 400 guests visiting the show. The main event was the womenswear show Alta Moda. Another collection - the Alta Gioielleria - took place in a nearby town of Palma di Montechiaro (/wiki/Palma_di_Montechiaro) , the birthplace of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (/wiki/Giuseppe_Tomasi_di_Lampedusa) . [95] (#cite_note-95) [96] (#cite_note-96) The event that took place in December 2019 in Milan featured a new menswear collection, which was held in the Biblioteca Ambrosiana in Milan, a landmark historical library founded in 1609 by Milan's Archbishop, Cardinal Borromeo. [97] (#cite_note-97) 2020 – Florence. Due to COVID-19, Dolce & Gabbana held two online summer shows of Alta Moda in July 2020. [98] (#cite_note-98) There was also a single live three day event that happened in September 2020, while Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria were also presented online. The menswear collection Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria was housed in the 12th-century Palazzo Vecchio and included such items as brocade velvet blazers, silk blouses and jewel-caked slippers. [99] (#cite_note-99) [100] (#cite_note-100) 2021 – Venice. In 2021, the show celebrated the 1600th anniversary of Venice (/wiki/Venice) founding in 421 AD. The event was run in several historical places of Venice: the Doge's Palace (/wiki/Doge%27s_Palace) , the Venetian Arsenal (/wiki/Venetian_Arsenal) , and the Rialto Bridge (/wiki/Rialto_Bridge) while the models were brought to the runways by gondolas (/wiki/Gondola) . [101] (#cite_note-101) [102] (#cite_note-102) 2022 - Dolce & Gabbana commemorated the 10th Anniversary of Alta Moda with a series of festivities that spanned four days and were hosted at various venues in Sicily (/wiki/Sicily) , Italy. [103] (#cite_note-103) [104] (#cite_note-:10-104) The highlight of the celebrations was the Alta Moda Women's show in Syracuse (/wiki/Syracuse,_Sicily) which was attended by numerous prominent figures, including Drew Barrymore (/wiki/Drew_Barrymore) , Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) , Ellen Pompeo (/wiki/Ellen_Pompeo) , among others. [104] (#cite_note-:10-104) 2022 - Dolce & Gabbana hosted an Alta Moda/Casa Miami Takeover in late November and early December, emphasizing fashion, watchmaking, jewelry, interiors, and Latin culture. [ citation needed ] The event took place at the Miami Surf Club. [105] (#cite_note-105) The annual Alta Moda event, initiated in Taormina in 2012, showcases the fatto a mano tradition, emphasizing handcrafted clothing. In Miami, 100 hand-made looks were presented, created by teams spanning different generations. [ citation needed ] July 2023, Dolce&Gabbana chose the Valle d'Itria, Apulia, for the annual Alta Moda events. The Alta Moda collection was presented in the streets of Alberobello, while the Alta Moda collection was shown in Ostuni. [106] (#cite_note-106) The creations of the Alta Gioielleria Collection were showcased in the Spazio Ulivi Pettolecchia; on the occasion of the event, Dolce&Gabbana Alta Gioielleria: Masterpieces of High Jewellery , a book edited by Carol Woolton, was unveiled. [107] (#cite_note-107) Dolce&Gabbana Casa Furnishings and Furnishing Accessories [ edit ] The Dolce & Gabbana Home Collection, launched in 1994, was discontinued in 1999, except for unique pieces created for D&G premises. In August 2021, Dolce&Gabbana introduced its first Casa furnishings and furnishing accessories collection, which was previewed in Venice during the Alta Moda events. The collection presented four themes: Leo, Zebra, Blu Mediterraneo, and Carretto, featuring a variety of furniture and interior accessories such as table ornaments, chandeliers, cabinetry, textiles, and other home decor items. [108] (#cite_note-108) The Casa brand's products were created through collaborations with Italian artisans, including Venetian furniture experts such as Barovier & Toso, Mian, I Dogi, Venini, Barbini, Salviati, and Tessiture Bevilacqua, who provided their procedural knowledge to the company. As of March 2022, the Casa brand collection was mainly available online. [52] (#cite_note-dgvogue-52) Collaborations [ edit ] Sports [ edit ] Since 2004, Dolce&Gabbana has collaborated with A.C. Milan (/wiki/A.C._Milan) to design their on-field attire. [109] (#cite_note-109) Additionally, A.C. Milan players wear team-issued Dolce & Gabbana clothing for official functions off the field. [110] (#cite_note-110) The brand also created off-field suits for the Italy national football team (/wiki/Italy_national_football_team) . [111] (#cite_note-111) In 2010, a three-year agreement was reached between Dolce&Gabbana and Chelsea F.C. (/wiki/Chelsea_F.C.) to provide the club's on- and off-field uniforms and attire, including outfits for female staff members. The deal included the creation of clothing for female staff members in addition to male staff members and the players themselves. The off-field outfits consisted of a dark blue suit with the lion symbol on the breast pocket. In addition, the designers revamped the club's director's lounge and main office reception area. [112] (#cite_note-112) Dolce&Gabbana also served as sponsors for the Milano Thunder Italian Boxing Team. [113] (#cite_note-113) Products [ edit ] In 2006, Dolce&Gabbana entered into an agreement with Motorola (/wiki/Motorola) , to produce the Motorola V3i Dolce & Gabbana cellular phone (/wiki/Motorola_RAZR) . [114] (#cite_note-114) Later, in 2009, the company collaborated with Sony Ericsson (/wiki/Sony_Mobile_Communications) to produce a version of its Jalou cellular phone (/wiki/Mobile_phone) line that featured 24-karat gold (/wiki/Gold#Jewelry) detailing and the D&G logo. [115] (#cite_note-115) The company also entered a co-design partnership with Citroën (/wiki/Citro%C3%ABn) to produce a version of their C3 Pluriel vehicle (/wiki/Citro%C3%ABn_C3) . [116] (#cite_note-116) In 2010, the brand partnered with Martini (/wiki/Martini_(vermouth)) to release a "gold edition" of its vermouth. [117] (#cite_note-117) In the same year, Dolce & Gabbana collaborated with singer Madonna to launch a line of co-designed sunglasses known as MDG. [118] (#cite_note-118) Kitchen appliances and food products [ edit ] The collaboration between Dolce & Gabbana and Smeg (/wiki/Smeg_(appliances)) , established in 2016, combines Italian fashion design with appliance manufacturing to create a range of kitchen appliances. [119] (#cite_note-:11-119) The "Sicily is My Love" collection, features products such as refrigerators, ranges, and small appliances adorned with illustrations reflective of Italian culture and Sicilian themes. The designs are categorized into two themes: Sicilian puppet theater and motifs inspired by Mount Etna and Greek ruins. Initially introduced at Milan Design Week, the collection has expanded over time, with new items launched in 2019. [119] (#cite_note-:11-119) [120] (#cite_note-120) The brand also launched the Dolce&Gabbana Perfetto Coffee, coffee product and tin set designed by Dolce & Gabbana, in collaboration with Italian stovetop coffee company, Bialetti (/wiki/Bialetti) . [121] (#cite_note-121) Starting in 2021, Dolce&Gabbana collaborated with Sicilian dessert maker, Fiasconaro, to produce a line of Christmas panettone (/wiki/Panettone) pastries wrapped in colorful tins and D&G gift bags. [122] (#cite_note-122) With Donnafugata, the brand decided to create Rosa, a new brand of rose wine. [123] (#cite_note-123) Italian chocolate maker, Baci Perugina, for its part, collaborated with Dolce & Gabbana in manufacturing chocolate pralines (/wiki/Praline_(nut_confection)) called Dolce Vita. [124] (#cite_note-124) Fashion Designers supported by D&G [ edit ] Miss Sohee [ edit ] Sohee Park (/wiki/Sohee_Park) , often referred to as Miss Sohee, is a South Korean designer based in London and a graduate of Central Saint Martins. [125] (#cite_note-:6-125) She is known for her demi-couture designs characterized by distinctive shapes and meticulous details. [125] (#cite_note-:6-125) [126] (#cite_note-:7-126) In December 2021, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana announced a collaboration with Park for the Fall/Winter 2022 Milan Fashion Week. [126] (#cite_note-:7-126) This partnership underscored the alignment of Park's design approach with Dolce & Gabbana's aesthetic values. Before establishing her own label, Miss Sohee interned at notable brands, including Marc Jacobs and Molly Goddard. [125] (#cite_note-:6-125) Her debut collection, "The Girl In Full Bloom," received attention, with select pieces featured in publications like Vogue and Vanity Fair. [126] (#cite_note-:7-126) Maty Bovan [ edit ] British designer Matty Bovan showcased his collection at Milan Fashion Week, marking his debut on the Italian schedule, thanks to the sponsorship of Dolce & Gabbana (D&G). [127] (#cite_note-127) After discovering Bovan's work on Instagram, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana provided him with financial support, design team assistance, and access to their archives. [128] (#cite_note-:8-128) The collection fused Bovan's unique prismatic knitwear and hand-painted fabrics with D&G's signature elements like corsets. [128] (#cite_note-:8-128) A significant portion of the collection was crafted in Yorkshire by local artisans, emphasizing Bovan's commitment to handcrafted designs with energy and soul. [128] (#cite_note-:8-128) This collaboration is one of several recent initiatives by D&G to support emerging talents and bolster its brand image, following controversies. Bovan's collaboration with D&G highlighted the synergy between the craft-focused approaches of both entities, with many pieces reflecting a blend of both their styles. [129] (#cite_note-129) Bovan, a Central Saint Martins graduate, has been recognized for his innovation in fashion and has recently gained the attention and support of established brands. [130] (#cite_note-130) Tomo Koizumi [ edit ] Dolce & Gabbana collaborated with Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi, known for his vibrant and sculptural designs, as part of their ongoing support for emerging talent. [131] (#cite_note-131) Koizumi, who launched his brand in Tokyo in 2011, has dressed celebrities like Lady Gaga and was a finalist for the LVMH Prize. [132] (#cite_note-132) [133] (#cite_note-:5-133) In this collaboration, Koizumi integrated Dolce & Gabbana's renowned Carretto print into his designs, merging his unique aesthetic with the brand's iconic patterns. Despite the collection's acclaim, Koizumi highlighted that his designs are primarily artistic expressions and not intended for commercial production. [133] (#cite_note-:5-133) Advertising campaign [ edit ] The debut commercial for Dolce&Gabbana's first women's fragrance, starring Monica Bellucci (/wiki/Monica_Bellucci) and directed by Giuseppe Tornatore (/wiki/Giuseppe_Tornatore) , ran for several years in Italy. Set to the score of Ennio Morricone (/wiki/Ennio_Morricone) , the 30-second ad showcases different women going about their daily lives, with Bellucci changing into a vintage-style bathing suit behind a white sheet held up by two women. She then throws her bra on a cactus, and walks towards the ocean. In another scene, she is lying on a bed while a man stands outside her window holding her bra to his nose. The commercial ends with a shot of the fragrance bottles against a black backdrop. [134] (#cite_note-134) In 2003, Giuseppe Tornatore directed another commercial for the Dolce & Gabbana perfume Sicily, which was set at a Sicilian funeral. [135] (#cite_note-135) Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) starred in the 2006 commercial for the fragrance "The One". The ad shows her getting ready in front of a vanity mirror, with flashes of paparazzi cameras appearing throughout. She then puts on a golden dress, shoes, and a pair of D&G sunglasses. [136] (#cite_note-136) Dolce&Gabbana has worked with numerous photographers and filmmakers on their advertising campaigns, including Giampaolo Barbieri, [137] (#cite_note-137) Michel Comte, [138] (#cite_note-138) Fabrizio Ferri, [139] (#cite_note-139) Steven Klein (/wiki/Steven_Klein_(photographer)) , [140] (#cite_note-140) [141] (#cite_note-141) Steven Meisel (/wiki/Steven_Meisel) , [142] (#cite_note-142) Mert + Marcus, [143] (#cite_note-143) Jean Baptiste Mondino (/wiki/Jean_Baptiste_Mondino) , [62] (#cite_note-Scarl-62) Ferdinando Scianna, [144] (#cite_note-144) Giampaolo Sgura, [145] (#cite_note-145) Mario Sorrenti (/wiki/Mario_Sorrenti) , [146] (#cite_note-146) Sølve Sundsbø, [147] (#cite_note-147) Mario Testino (/wiki/Mario_Testino) , [148] (#cite_note-148) Giuseppe Tornatore, and Mariano Vivanco (/wiki/Mariano_Vivanco) . [149] (#cite_note-149) he design house has won two Leadawards for their campaigns, one in 2004 for their Fall/Winter 2003/04 campaign, [150] (#cite_note-150) and another in 2006 for their Fall/Winter 2005/06 campaign. [151] (#cite_note-151) Inspirations and style [ edit ] The Dolce & Gabbana store of Via della Spiga (/wiki/Via_della_Spiga) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) Dolce & Gabbana's style is influenced by Italy's film history and thrift shop (/wiki/Charity_shop) bohemian (/wiki/Bohemian_style) style, resulting in deeply coloured and animal print (/wiki/Animal_print) designs that have been described as "haute hippy dom." According to Domenico Dolce, the duo designs clothes to tell a story, similar to making a movie. Creating the most flattering clothes is their priority over setting fashion trends, and they have stated that they would not mind if their only contribution to fashion history was a black bra. The designers strongly identify with Sicilian culture and consider it their most important source of style and inspiration (Dolce & Gabbana 2007).The designers strongly identify with Sicilian culture and consider it their most important source of style and inspiration. Dolce & Gabbana is known for trademark styles such underwear-as-outerwear (/wiki/Underwear-as-outerwear) corsets and bra fastenings gangster boss pinstripe (/wiki/Pinstripes) suits, and extravagantly printed coats. Their feminine collections are backed by powerful ad campaigns, such as the iconic black-and-white ads featuring model Marpessa photographed by Ferdinando Scianna in 1987. The duo's designs are celebrated for their ability to flatter and enhance the female form, with Isabella Rossellini recalling how even their most modest designs, like a white shirt, were cut to make her look alluring. In 1996, Dolce & Gabbana ventured into the music industry by recording their own single, which featured the phrase "D&G is love" over a techno beat. The pair were once called the "Gilbert and George of Italian fashion." [152] (#cite_note-AAA-152) Although relatively new to the fashion industry compared to Italian giants such as Armani (/wiki/Armani) and Versace (/wiki/Versace) , the designers attribute their incredible success in part to luck. Dolce & Gabbana discovered a painting by a Venetian artist of Christ on the cross wearing their branded underwear briefs at the Venice Biennale. They commissioned the artist to paint their portrait, with the Madonna resembling pop icon Madonna Ciccone (/wiki/Madonna) and the courtiers depicted as two putti at her feet. [153] (#cite_note-153) [154] (#cite_note-154) In January 2016, the design house launched a high-end fashion line aimed at affluent Muslim women, featuring a collection of hijabs and abayas printed with daisies, lemons, and roses. [155] (#cite_note-155) Books [ edit ] In addition to designing clothing, Dolce & Gabbana have co-authored nearly two dozen books featuring photographic narratives as well as collections of their own work. The proceeds of many of these books go to charities including the Children's Action Network and the Butterfly Onlus "école sans frontières" Foundation. [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) The following is a bibliography of their literary works: 1996 - 10 Anni Dolce & Gabbana (A collection of the most important advertising and editorial images of the design house's first decade) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8878135789 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8878135789) [156] (#cite_note-156) 1997 - Wildness ASIN (/wiki/Amazon_Standard_Identification_Number) B000KW5O5O (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW5O5O) [157] (#cite_note-157) 1998 - Animal ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0789204394 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0789204394) [158] (#cite_note-158) 2003 - Hollywood (Features over 100 photographs of the movie stars from the post-1985 era) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2843235269 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-2843235269) [159] (#cite_note-159) Calcio (Photographs of 44 soccer players, 3 teams, and 2 coaches) [160] (#cite_note-160) A.C. Milan [161] (#cite_note-161) 2004 - Music (Features over 150 of globally recognised musicians) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2843234606 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-2843234606) [162] (#cite_note-162) 20 Years Dolce & Gabbana (A chronological photographic history of each of the house's collections, using over 1000 photos) [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) 2006 - Milan ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8837044381 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8837044381) [163] (#cite_note-163) 2006 Italia (A book celebrating the 2006 World Cup title won by Italy) [164] (#cite_note-164) 2006 - Fashion Album (Contains over 400 images paying homage to the great fashion photographers of Dolce & Gabbana collections) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8876248498 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8876248498) [165] (#cite_note-165) 2007 - Secret Ceremony ASIN (/wiki/Amazon_Standard_Identification_Number) B001X6NJLW (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001X6NJLW) [166] (#cite_note-166) Family (A book that focuses on the family as the center of a man's life) [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) The Good Shepherd (A book that illustrates the day of a common shephard, wearing Dolce & Gabbana clothing) [167] (#cite_note-167) Milano Beach Soccer [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) 2008 - Diamonds & Pearls ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8837057497 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8837057497) [168] (#cite_note-168) 2010 - 20 Years of Dolce & Gabbana for Men ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8837077037 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8837077037) [169] (#cite_note-169) 2011 - Icons 1990–2010 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8837079642 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8837079642) [170] (#cite_note-170) 2011 - Fashion Shows 1990 – 2010 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8837079635 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8837079635) [171] (#cite_note-171) Nazionale Italiana: South Africa 2010 (A series of images starring the Italy National Football Team during the training sessions preceding the 2010 FIFA World Cup (/wiki/2010_FIFA_World_Cup) ) [172] (#cite_note-172) 2011 - Uomini ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0847837007 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0847837007) [173] (#cite_note-173) [174] (#cite_note-174) Milan Fashion Soccer Players Portraits [175] (#cite_note-175) 2011 - David Gandy (A 280-page photographic coffee table book of images chronicling collaborations with British model David Gandy (/wiki/David_Gandy) from 2006 to 2011) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0847837526 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0847837526) [176] (#cite_note-176) 2012 - Campioni ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0847840212 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0847840212) [177] (#cite_note-177) 2013 - Lionel Andres Messi ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0847841677 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0847841677) 2016 - Lin Dan ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0847847204 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0847847204) 2017 - Generations: Millennials: The New Renaissance ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8891815972 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-8891815972) 2023 - Dolce&Gabbana Alta Gioielleria: Masterpieces of High Jewellery , edited by Carol Woolton ISBN 978-8891836946 2023 - Nero: The Color of Dolce&Gabbana ISBN 978-8891839039 Spaces and exhibitions [ edit ] Dolce&Gabbana established La sede di via San Damiano atelier in September 1995, followed by the Lo showroom di via Goldoni , a seven-floor boutique and corporate space in 2002. They moved from their previous main showroom at Piazza Umanitaria to this new location. In July 2006, they opened another 5,000 square foot show floor at Lo showroom di via Broggi in Milan. The fashion house also purchased the Il Metropol theatre, a historic cinema in Milan built in the 1940s, which underwent renovation and was reopened in September 2005. [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) n 2006, Dolce & Gabbana inaugurated IL GOLD, an establishment with café, bar, bistro, and restaurant areas. Additionally, they opened the Martini Bar (/wiki/Martini_(vermouth)) , a co-sponsored drinking establishment at their Milanese men's showroom in 2003, [30] (#cite_note-VGP-30) followed by another Martini Bar at their Shanghai showroom in 2006. [61] (#cite_note-DGGH-61) s of 2009, Dolce&Gabbana had 93 boutiques and 11 factory outlets and were sold in over 80 countries, with a total of 251 mono-brand stores. [178] (#cite_note-178) In the United States, standalone boutiques can be found in Bal Harbour (/wiki/Bal_Harbour,_Florida) , Beverly Hills (/wiki/Beverly_Hills,_California) , Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) , Houston (/wiki/Houston) , Las Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas) , and New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , with boutiques in select department stores such as Nordstrom (/wiki/Nordstrom) , Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) , Neiman Marcus (/wiki/Neiman_Marcus) , and Bergdorf Goodman (/wiki/Bergdorf_Goodman) . Apart from developing runway shows and advertising campaigns for its collections, Dolce & Gabbana uses its spaces to host photography and art exhibitions. After the opening of the Il Metropol, they hosted two exhibitions by artist Ron Arad in the lobby space: Blo-Glo between April 2006 and April 2007, [179] (#cite_note-179) and Bodyguards in late April 2007. [180] (#cite_note-180) The brand also held photography exhibitions featuring the work of Enzo Sellerio (/wiki/Enzo_Sellerio) in 2007 and Herbert List (/wiki/Herbert_List) in 2008. [181] (#cite_note-181) In 2011, Dolce & Gabbana hosted an open house and architectural exhibition with Studio Piuarch, showcasing the studio's various architectural designs and projects since 1996. [182] (#cite_note-182) Studio Piuarch built the Dolce & Gabbana headquarters in 2006, where the exhibition and open house were held. [183] (#cite_note-183) Dolce & Gabbana also uses its spaces for book launches and photographic exhibitions of its own clothing, such as the book launch of their book David Gandy in 2011. [184] (#cite_note-184) dditionally, they use other spaces, such as the Palazzo della Ragione (/wiki/Palazzo_della_Ragione,_Padua) in Milan, where they held a photographic exhibition of over 100 images selected from the history of US Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) over its 90-year history in May 2009. The exhibition was called Extreme Beauty in Vogue . [185] (#cite_note-185) [186] (#cite_note-186) The company has production factories in Legnano (/wiki/Legnano) [187] (#cite_note-187) and Incisa in Val d'Arno (/wiki/Incisa_in_Val_d%27Arno) . [188] (#cite_note-188) Sustainability Advocacy [ edit ] In January 2022, Dolce & Gabbana announced their decision to prohibit the use of animal fur in their products, aligning with a growing trend in the fashion industry. [189] (#cite_note-189) Rather than using real fur, the company will collaborate with fur artisans to create sustainable faux fur alternatives and incorporate recycled materials in their designs. [190] (#cite_note-190) The Humane Society of the U.S. and Humane Society International partnered with Dolce & Gabbana in making this announcement. [191] (#cite_note-191) Additionally, Dolce & Gabbana co-founded the Re.Crea Competition in August 2022, alongside other major fashion companies, to address textile waste management and promote research and development in the area recycling, in line with European directives on Extended Producer Responsibility for Textile Waste. [192] (#cite_note-192) Controversies [ edit ] Advertising [ edit ] Following complaints from consumer groups in February 2007, Dolce & Gabbana pulled an advertisement in Spain that showed a man holding a woman to the ground by her wrists while a group of men look on. Spain's Labour and Social Affairs Ministry branded the campaign as illegal and humiliating to women, saying the woman's body position had no relation to the products Dolce & Gabbana was trying to sell. Italian publications followed suit, banning the ad. According to Debonair Magazine, «this Dolce & Gabbana advertisement has been criticized as a glorification of gang-rape. While one can never be sure of D&G's true intent, the company's penchant is for controversy.» [193] (#cite_note-193) When asked about the ad being banned in Spain, Dolce & Gabbana responded that the "Spaniards were a bit backward." [194] (#cite_note-:0-194) According to The Huffington Post UK , feminist writer Louise Pennington also commented on the image. She stated that, "This particular image is a representative of an increasingly misogynistic contraction of women in the fashion industry demonstrating very clear links between the fashion-beauty industry and the mainstreaming of pornography. Those who suggest this image is harmless fail to recognize the reality of rape culture and the dehumanization of women's bodies in our pornographic mainstream media." [195] (#cite_note-195) Hong Kong photography ban [ edit ] One of the four streets blocked during the Sunday protest On January 5, 2012, it was reported that Hong Kong residents had been prevented from taking pictures of Dolce & Gabbana window displays in both their Hong Kong stores. In particular staff and security personnel at their flagship store on Canton Road (/wiki/Canton_Road) asserted the pavement area outside was private property where photography was forbidden. The actions sparked protests spanning several days and gained international news coverage on 8 January. [196] (#cite_note-196) [197] (#cite_note-197) Citing the case of Zhou Jiugeng, a Nanjing official whose high-living lifestyle was identified by mainland Chinese internet users using photographs, local news reports speculated that the Dolce & Gabbana photo ban may have been imposed at the request of some wealthy Chinese government officials attempting to block details on the source of their wealth. [198] (#cite_note-198) [199] (#cite_note-199) Dolce & Gabbana issued a formal apology to the people of Hong Kong from its Milan headquarters on 18 January 2012, confirming that it had no relation to the incident. [200] (#cite_note-200) Gay adoption and in vitro fertilization [ edit ] In an interview on 16 March 2015 issue of Italian magazine Panorama , Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce caused controversy when they remarked, "We oppose gay adoptions (/wiki/Gay_adoptions) . The only family is the traditional one." They also criticized in vitro fertilisation (/wiki/In_vitro_fertilisation) (IVF) and surrogacy (/wiki/Surrogacy) by saying, "No chemical offspring and rented uterus: life has a natural flow, there are things that should not be changed." [201] (#cite_note-201) Critics took to social media to voice their opposition, with the hashtag #BoycottDolceGabbana garnering 30,000 tweets on Twitter in five days. Celebrities, including Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) , Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) , Victoria Beckham (/wiki/Victoria_Beckham) , Ricky Martin (/wiki/Ricky_Martin) , Martina Navratilova (/wiki/Martina_Navratilova) and Courtney Love (/wiki/Courtney_Love) , were among those expressing anger over the remarks. [202] (#cite_note-guard-202) [203] (#cite_note-203) According to Guardian, "in an interview in 2006, Gabbana revealed that he had approached a woman to be the mother of his baby but made it clear that he struggled with the idea of a same-sex family. "I am opposed to the idea of a child growing up with two gay parents," he said. "A child needs a mother and a father. I could not imagine my childhood without my mother. I also believe that it is cruel to take a baby away from its mother." [202] (#cite_note-guard-202) More than 10,000 people signed an online petition calling for Macy's (/wiki/Macy%27s) and Debenhams (/wiki/Debenhams) to stop stocking the brand in their department stores, until D&G retracted their statements and apologized. Protesters also gathered outside Dolce & Gabbana's flagship London shop calling for an international boycott of the luxury fashion store. [204] (#cite_note-204) Dolce & Gabbana criticized calls for a boycott on their brand as "medieval" and called to boycott Elton John. [205] (#cite_note-205) During an interview with CNN (/wiki/CNN) , the pair said "they respected how people chose to live their lives, including the use of IVF, and said others should also respect differences in opinion. They also added that they could have expressed themselves using better language to the Italian magazine but appeared taken aback by the social media backlash. " [206] (#cite_note-CNNDG-206) Shanghai event promotion video [ edit ] In November 2018, Dolce & Gabbana released a series of videos on Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) , Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) and Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) profiles, as well as its Sina Weibo (/wiki/Sina_Weibo) account in China, featuring a Chinese model with her eye intentionally narrowed, [207] (#cite_note-207) dressed up in the brand's garments and accessories and clumsily attempting to use chopsticks (/wiki/Chopstick) to eat Italian food in a pretentious way. The video narratage is in Standard Mandarin (/wiki/Standard_Mandarin) with a hubristic and lecturing tone, while having sexually suggestive (/wiki/Sexual_suggestiveness) lines. [208] (#cite_note-208) [209] (#cite_note-209) Social media users commented that it reflects Dolce & Gabbana's lack of understanding of Chinese culture and racism (/wiki/Racism) . Under the public pressure, D&G removed this series from its Sina Weibo whilst still keeping them on Instagram. [210] (#cite_note-210) Social media outcry was further exacerbated by a screen capture of racist comments alleged to have been made from the D&G co-founder Stefano Gabbana's Instagram account, [211] (#cite_note-211) Later Dolce & Gabbana claimed on Instagram that both the brand's and the designer's accounts had been hacked, also issuing a video where they apologized for the ads and asked for forgiveness from the Chinese people. "We have always been in love with China," Dolce said in the video. "We love your culture and we certainly have much to learn. That is why we are sorry if we made mistakes in the way we expressed ourselves." "We will never forget this experience and it will certainly never happen again," Gabbana said. "From the bottom of our hearts, we ask for forgiveness." [212] (#cite_note-Martinez-212) [213] (#cite_note-abc.net.au-213) [214] (#cite_note-scmp.com-214) Stefano Gabbana complained about removing the videos from the internet and called China the "Ignorant Dirty Smelling Mafia", adding that it was a "country of shit" and "feel inferiors" in the message. [212] (#cite_note-Martinez-212) [213] (#cite_note-abc.net.au-213) [214] (#cite_note-scmp.com-214) Later Dolce & Gabbana claimed on Instagram that both the brand's and the designer's accounts had been hacked. Wang Junkai (/wiki/Wang_Junkai) and Dilraba Dilmurat (/wiki/Dilraba_Dilmurat) , both of whom served as the brand's celebrity ambassadors, severed their ties with the company. Other celebrities, including Zhang Ziyi (/wiki/Zhang_Ziyi) , Li Bingbing (/wiki/Li_Bingbing) and Chen Kun (/wiki/Chen_Kun) withdrew from the event. Ultimately, the show was cancelled by the brand. [215] (#cite_note-215) [216] (#cite_note-216) [217] (#cite_note-217) [218] (#cite_note-218) Chinese e-commerce sites, including Alibaba (/wiki/Alibaba_Group) and JD.com (/wiki/JD.com) , removed the products of Dolce & Gabbana. [219] (#cite_note-wp201811-219) The founders of Dolce & Gabbana apologized in a video on 23 November, which was posted on its Sina Weibo account, and also posted on Instagram and Facebook later. Throughout the video, the founders can be seen reading off a script from a teleprompter located on the right. At the end of the video, the founders were saying "对不起" (sorry) in Chinese. Meanwhile, the three videos were finally removed from the official Instagram account. [219] (#cite_note-wp201811-219) [220] (#cite_note-220) [221] (#cite_note-221) Legal issues [ edit ] In May 2009, the Italian government (/wiki/Italian_government) charged Dolce & Gabbana with tax evasion (/wiki/Tax_evasion) for having moved assets of about 249 million euros to Luxembourg (/wiki/Luxembourg) in the 2004–2006 period. On 19 June 2013, they were found guilty of failing to declare 1 billion euros ($1.3 billion) of income to authorities after moving their brand to Gado (/w/index.php?title=Gado_(company)&action=edit&redlink=1) , a Luxembourg-based holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) . The court sentenced them both to one year and eight months in jail. [222] (#cite_note-222) Dolce & Gabbana filed an appeal. On 30 April 2014, a three judge panel overruled the appeal and decided to uphold the initial sentence. [223] (#cite_note-Dolce,_Gabbana_Found_Guilty_of_Tax_Evasion-223) Finally, on 24 October 2014, both Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were found not guilty of tax evasion by the Italian Court of Justice (/wiki/Italian_Court_of_Justice) . [224] (#cite_note-Robert_Wood-224) [225] (#cite_note-225) [226] (#cite_note-LUKE_LEITCH-226) Following the cancellation of their 2018 show in China, Dolce & Gabbana filed a lawsuit against fashion watchdog Diet Prada (/wiki/Diet_Prada) , claiming defamation by the bloggers who reposted anti-Asian comments made by one of their designers. [227] (#cite_note-respond-227) The $USD600m claim argued that the Instagram account was responsible for encouraging public backlash, the cancellation of their show and loss of business. In the lawsuit, the petitioners once again claimed that their Instagram account was hacked and then publicly apologized for the incident. [228] (#cite_note-:1-228) [227] (#cite_note-respond-227) The loss of business in question includes Chinese retailer Yangmatou taking down 58,000 Dolce & Gabbana products from their store. [229] (#cite_note-:2-229) Luxury western retailers, such as Net-a-Porter, also removed them from their brand list. [229] (#cite_note-:2-229) Fashion Law Institute lawyers are defending the Diet Prada (/wiki/Diet_Prada) founders. [228] (#cite_note-:1-228) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "I D & G DOLCE & GABBANA Revenue" (https://www.zippia.com/d-g-dolce-gabbana-careers-194446/revenue/) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220217184853/https://www.zippia.com/d-g-dolce-gabbana-careers-194446/revenue/) from the original on 17 February 2022 . Retrieved 17 February 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-businessinsider_2-0) Scozzari, Carlotta (5 September 2018). 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"Chinese campaign to boycott Dolce & Gabbana mounts as co-founders issue apology" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/chinese-campaign-to-boycott-dolce-and-gabbana-mounts-as-co-founders-issue-apology/2018/11/23/2ff1e69e-ef07-11e8-9236-bb94154151d2_story.html?noredirect=on) . The Washington Post . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181216000435/https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/chinese-campaign-to-boycott-dolce-and-gabbana-mounts-as-co-founders-issue-apology/2018/11/23/2ff1e69e-ef07-11e8-9236-bb94154151d2_story.html?noredirect=on) from the original on 16 December 2018 . Retrieved 24 November 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-220) "Dolce & Gabbana founders make video apology to China after racism accusations" (https://www.nbcnews.com/news/asian-america/dolce-gabbana-founders-make-video-apology-china-after-racism-accusations-n939461) . NBC News . 23 November 2018. 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Retrieved 19 June 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Dolce,_Gabbana_Found_Guilty_of_Tax_Evasion_223-0) Wang, Lisa (30 April 2014). "Dolce, Gabbana Found Guilty of Tax Evasion" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140901201103/http://www.businessoffashion.com/2014/04/dolce-gabbana-appeal-denied-guilty-tax-evasion.html) . Business of Fashion. Archived from the original (http://www.businessoffashion.com/2014/04/dolce-gabbana-appeal-denied-guilty-tax-evasion.html) on 1 September 2014 . Retrieved 7 May 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Robert_Wood_224-0) Wood, Robert W. (25 October 2014). "Dolce & Gabbana Cleared Of Tax Evasion, Could Help Lionel Messi Trial" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/robertwood/2014/10/25/dolce-gabbana-cleared-of-tax-evasion-could-help-lionel-messi-trial) . forbes.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170313045008/https://www.forbes.com/sites/robertwood/2014/10/25/dolce-gabbana-cleared-of-tax-evasion-could-help-lionel-messi-trial/) from the original on 13 March 2017 . Retrieved 12 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-225) "Dolce & Gabbana Founders Found Innocent in Tax Evasion Case" (http://www.eonline.com/news/591768/dolce-gabbana-founders-found-innocent-in-tax-evasion-case-we-knew-it-we-are-honest-people) . E! Online . 24 October 2014. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20141129020934/http://www.eonline.com/news/591768/dolce-gabbana-founders-found-innocent-in-tax-evasion-case-we-knew-it-we-are-honest-people) from the original on 29 November 2014 . Retrieved 14 November 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-LUKE_LEITCH_226-0) Leitch, Luke (24 October 2014). "Dolce and Gabbana cleared of tax evasion: Rome's supreme court overturned a ruling that found designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana guilty of tax evasion with a 20-month prison penalty" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG11186176/Dolce-and-Gabbana-cleared-of-tax-evasion.html) . telegraph.co.uk. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160828201752/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG11186176/Dolce-and-Gabbana-cleared-of-tax-evasion.html) from the original on 28 August 2016 . Retrieved 12 March 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Diet Prada's Founders Respond to Dolce & Gabbana Defamation Suit Over Alleged "Smear Campaign" (https://www.thefashionlaw.com/diet-pradas-founders-respond-to-dolce-gabbana-defamation-suit-over-alleged-smear-campaign/) " (https://www.thefashionlaw.com/diet-pradas-founders-respond-to-dolce-gabbana-defamation-suit-over-alleged-smear-campaign/) . The Fashion Law . 4 March 2021. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210310122335/https://www.thefashionlaw.com/diet-pradas-founders-respond-to-dolce-gabbana-defamation-suit-over-alleged-smear-campaign/) from the original on 10 March 2021 . Retrieved 5 April 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Barry, Colleen (7 March 2021). "Dolce & Gabbana sues bloggers for $780m" (https://www.afr.com/world/europe/dolce-and-gabbana-sues-bloggers-for-780m-20210307-p578iu) . Financial Review . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210323012235/https://www.afr.com/world/europe/dolce-and-gabbana-sues-bloggers-for-780m-20210307-p578iu) from the original on 23 March 2021 . Retrieved 5 April 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Dolce & Gabbana Are Threatening Legal Action over Cancelled Show, Racist Row" (https://www.thefashionlaw.com/dolce-amp-gabbana-are-threatening-legal-action-over-cancelled-show-racist-row/) . The Fashion Law . 23 November 2018. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210310120907/https://www.thefashionlaw.com/dolce-amp-gabbana-are-threatening-legal-action-over-cancelled-show-racist-row/) from the original on 10 March 2021 . Retrieved 5 April 2021 . Further reading [ edit ] "Dolce & Gabbana." The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers. London: Thames & Hudson, 2007. Credo Reference. Web. 29 November 2011. "Gabbana, Stefano." Marquis Who's Who in the World. New Providence: Marquis Who's Who LLC, 2011. Credo Reference. Web. 29 November 2011. "Gabbana, Stefano." The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers. London: Thames & Hudson, 2007. Credo Reference. Web. 29 November 2011. " Domenico Dolce Quotes – Swide Magazine (http://www.swide.com/luxury-magazine/History/DG-Archive/domenico-dolce-quotes/2011/6/2) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130119071535/http://www.swide.com/luxury-magazine/History/DG-Archive/domenico-dolce-quotes/2011/6/2) 19 January 2013 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ." Swide Magazine by Dolce&Gabbana. Swide Magazine, 2 June 2011. Web. 29 November 2011. " Dolce & Gabbana – Biography on Bio (https://web.archive.org/web/20150227211103/http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/dolce-gabbana.html) ." Bio: Shows, Video, TV Schedule and More on Bio. AETN UK. Web. 29 November 2011. 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dolce_%26_Gabbana&oldid=1234102638 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dolce_%26_Gabbana&oldid=1234102638) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Category:Dolce_%26_Gabbana) Clothing brands of Italy (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_Italy) Shoe companies of Italy (/wiki/Category:Shoe_companies_of_Italy) High fashion brands (/wiki/Category:High_fashion_brands) Luxury brands (/wiki/Category:Luxury_brands) Fashion accessory companies (/wiki/Category:Fashion_accessory_companies) Companies based in Milan (/wiki/Category:Companies_based_in_Milan) Retail companies established in 1985 (/wiki/Category:Retail_companies_established_in_1985) Clothing companies established in 1985 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1985) Italian companies established in 1985 (/wiki/Category:Italian_companies_established_in_1985) Privately held companies of Italy (/wiki/Category:Privately_held_companies_of_Italy) Bags (fashion) (/wiki/Category:Bags_(fashion)) Underwear brands (/wiki/Category:Underwear_brands) Watch manufacturing companies of Italy (/wiki/Category:Watch_manufacturing_companies_of_Italy) Eyewear brands of Italy (/wiki/Category:Eyewear_brands_of_Italy) Hidden categories: CS1 Italian-language sources (it) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Italian-language_sources_(it)) CS1 Spanish-language sources (es) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Spanish-language_sources_(es)) All articles with dead external links (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_dead_external_links) Articles with dead external links from November 2017 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_dead_external_links_from_November_2017) Articles with permanently dead external links (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_permanently_dead_external_links) CS1 errors: URL (/wiki/Category:CS1_errors:_URL) Articles with dead external links from November 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_dead_external_links_from_November_2019) CS1 French-language sources (fr) (/wiki/Category:CS1_French-language_sources_(fr)) Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links) Pages using gadget WikiMiniAtlas (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_gadget_WikiMiniAtlas) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from April 2019 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_April_2019) Pages with Italian IPA (/wiki/Category:Pages_with_Italian_IPA) Articles needing cleanup from September 2022 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_cleanup_from_September_2022) All pages needing cleanup (/wiki/Category:All_pages_needing_cleanup) Articles with sections that need to be turned into prose from September 2022 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_sections_that_need_to_be_turned_into_prose_from_September_2022) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from December 2023 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_December_2023) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata) Coordinates not on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Coordinates_not_on_Wikidata) Articles with ISNI identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_ISNI_identifiers) Articles with VIAF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_VIAF_identifiers) Articles with BNF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_BNF_identifiers) Articles with BNFdata identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_BNFdata_identifiers) Articles with J9U identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_J9U_identifiers) Articles with LCCN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_LCCN_identifiers) Articles with MoMA identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_MoMA_identifiers) Articles with RKDartists identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_RKDartists_identifiers) Articles with ULAN identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_ULAN_identifiers) Articles with SUDOC identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_SUDOC_identifiers) |
American rapper and record producer (born 1977) "Kanye" redirects here. For other uses, see Kanye (disambiguation) (/wiki/Kanye_(disambiguation)) and Kanye West (disambiguation) (/wiki/Kanye_West_(disambiguation)) . Kanye West West in April 2009 Born Kanye Omari West ( 1977-06-08 ) June 8, 1977 (age 47) Atlanta, Georgia (/wiki/Atlanta,_Georgia) , U.S. Other names Ye [a] (#cite_note-name-1) Yeezus Saint Pablo Yeezy Louis Vuitton Don Occupations Rapper singer songwriter record producer fashion designer Years active 1996–present Organization(s) Donda (/wiki/Donda_(company)) , YZY (/wiki/YZY_(brand)) Spouse Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) ( m. 2014; div. 2022) Partner Bianca Censori (/wiki/Bianca_Censori) (2022–present) [b] (#cite_note-3) Children 4, including North (/wiki/North_West_(musician)) Parent Donda West (/wiki/Donda_West) (mother) Relatives Devo Harris (/wiki/Devo_Harris) (cousin) Tony Williams (/wiki/The_WRLDFMS_Tony_Williams) (cousin) Awards Full list (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Kanye_West) Musical career Origin Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) , Illinois, U.S. Genres Hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop_music) progressive rap (/wiki/Progressive_rap) pop (/wiki/Pop_music) art pop (/wiki/Art_pop) gospel (/wiki/Gospel_music) Discography Albums (/wiki/Kanye_West_albums_discography) singles (/wiki/Kanye_West_singles_discography) songs (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_Kanye_West) production (/wiki/Kanye_West_production_discography) Labels GOOD (/wiki/GOOD_Music) Island Def Jam (/wiki/Island_Def_Jam) Def Jam (/wiki/Def_Jam_Recordings) Roc-A-Fella (/wiki/Roc-A-Fella_Records) YZY (/wiki/YZY_(brand)) Member of Sunday Service Choir (/wiki/Sunday_Service_Choir) The Hitmen (/wiki/The_Hitmen_(production_team)) ¥$ (/wiki/%C2%A5$) [2] (#cite_note-amg-4) Formerly of Child Rebel Soldier (/wiki/Child_Rebel_Soldier) Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts) The Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) Musical artist Signature Ye [a] (#cite_note-name-1) ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) j eɪ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) YAY ; born Kanye Omari West / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ k ɑː n j eɪ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) KAHN -yay ; June 8, 1977) is an American rapper, singer, songwriter, record producer, and fashion designer. One of the most prominent figures in hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop_music) , [3] (#cite_note-5) he is known for his varying musical style [4] (#cite_note-6) and polarizing cultural and political commentary. [5] (#cite_note-7) After dropping out of college to pursue a career in music, West began producing for regional artists in the Chicago area. As an in-house producer for Roc-A-Fella Records (/wiki/Roc-A-Fella_Records) , he co-produced albums including Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) 's The Blueprint (/wiki/The_Blueprint) (2001) before signing with the label as a recording artist. West's debut studio album, The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) (2004), was met with critical acclaim and yielded the Billboard Hot 100 (/wiki/Billboard_Hot_100) -number one single " Slow Jamz (/wiki/Slow_Jamz) ". He peaked the chart on four other occasions with the singles " Gold Digger (/wiki/Gold_Digger_(Kanye_West_song)) " (2005), " Stronger (/wiki/Stronger_(Kanye_West_song)) " (2007), " E.T. (/wiki/E.T._(song)) " (2011, as a featured artist), and " Carnival (/wiki/Carnival_(%C2%A5$_song)) " (2024). West's second and third studio albums, Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) (2005) and Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) (2007), both debuted atop the Billboard 200 (/wiki/Billboard_200) , the latter becoming West's most commercially successful to date. Three of his subsequent albums, 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) (2008), My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) (2010), and The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) (2016), were certified triple platinum (/wiki/RIAA_certification) , and Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) (2013) was certified double platinum. While not as well-received critically as his previous efforts, Ye (/wiki/Ye_(album)) (2018), Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) (2019), and Donda (/wiki/Donda) (2021) continued West's series of consecutive number one debuts on the Billboard 200. West has also released the collaborative albums Watch the Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) (2011) with Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(album)) (2018) with Kid Cudi (/wiki/Kid_Cudi) , and Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) (2024) with Ty Dolla Sign (/wiki/Ty_Dolla_Sign) . In fashion design, he has collaborated with Nike, Inc. (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) , Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , and Gap Inc. (/wiki/Gap_Inc.) on clothing and footwear, and led the Yeezy (/wiki/Adidas_Yeezy) collaboration with Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) . West's outspoken views (/wiki/Views_of_Kanye_West) have received significant media coverage. He has been a frequent source of controversy due to his conduct on social media (/wiki/Social_media) , at award shows and public settings, as well as his comments on the music (/wiki/Music_industry) and fashion industries (/wiki/Fashion_industry) , U.S. politics (/wiki/Politics_of_the_United_States) , race (/wiki/Race_and_ethnicity_in_the_United_States) , and slavery (/wiki/Slavery_in_the_United_States) . His Christian faith, high-profile marriage to Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) , and mental health have also been topics of media attention. [6] (#cite_note-8) [7] (#cite_note-Graham2019-9) [8] (#cite_note-Schaffstall-10) In 2020, West launched an unsuccessful independent presidential campaign (/wiki/Kanye_West_2020_presidential_campaign) that advocated for a consistent life ethic (/wiki/Consistent_life_ethic) . In October 2022, he was widely condemned and lost many sponsors and partnerships—including his collaborations with Adidas, Gap, and Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) —after making a series (/wiki/Views_of_Kanye_West#Race_and_antisemitism) of antisemitic (/wiki/Antisemitic) statements, including praising Adolf Hitler (/wiki/Adolf_Hitler) and denying the Holocaust (/wiki/Holocaust_denial) . One of the world's best-selling music artists (/wiki/List_of_best-selling_music_artists) with 160 million records sold, West has won 24 Grammy Awards (/wiki/Grammy_Awards) , the joint 11th-most of all time (/wiki/Grammy_Award_records#Most_Grammys_won) and most awarded for any hip hop artist along with Jay-Z. [9] (#cite_note-11) His other accolades (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Kanye_West) include a Billboard Artist Achievement Award (/wiki/Billboard_Music_Award#Artist_Achievement_Award) , a joint-record three Brit Awards (/wiki/Brit_Awards) for Best International Male Solo Artist (/wiki/Brit_Award_for_International_Male_Solo_Artist) , and the Michael Jackson Video Vanguard Award (/wiki/Michael_Jackson_Video_Vanguard_Award) . [10] (#cite_note-:2-12) West holds the joint record (with Bob Dylan (/wiki/Bob_Dylan) ) for most albums (4) topping the annual Pazz & Jop (/wiki/Pazz_%26_Jop) critic poll. Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) named him one of the 100 most influential people in the world (/wiki/Time_100) in 2005 and 2015. [11] (#cite_note-13) [12] (#cite_note-14) West's first six solo albums were included on Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) ' s 500 Greatest Albums of All Time (/wiki/Rolling_Stone%27s_500_Greatest_Albums_of_All_Time) list in 2020, with the same publication naming him one of the 100 Greatest Songwriters of All Time (/wiki/Rolling_Stone%27s_100_Greatest_Songwriters_of_All_Time) . [13] (#cite_note-15) Early life West was born on June 8, 1977, in Atlanta (/wiki/Atlanta) , Georgia. [c] (#cite_note-18) After his parents divorced when he was three years old, he moved with his mother to Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) , Illinois. [16] (#cite_note-19) [17] (#cite_note-leader-20) His father, Ray West, is a former Black Panther (/wiki/Black_Panther_Party) and was one of the first black photojournalists at The Atlanta Journal-Constitution (/wiki/The_Atlanta_Journal-Constitution) . Ray later became a Christian counselor, [17] (#cite_note-leader-20) and in 2006, opened the Good Water Store and Café in Lexington Park, Maryland (/wiki/Lexington_Park,_Maryland) , with startup capital from his son. [18] (#cite_note-21) [19] (#cite_note-wapo-water-22) West's mother, Donda C. West (/wiki/Donda_C._West) (née Williams), [20] (#cite_note-23) was a professor of English at Clark Atlanta University (/wiki/Clark_Atlanta_University) and the Chair of the English Department at Chicago State University (/wiki/Chicago_State_University) before retiring to serve as his manager. West was raised in a middle-class environment, attending Polaris School for Individual Education [21] (#cite_note-KWstBio5-24) in suburban Oak Lawn, Illinois (/wiki/Oak_Lawn,_Illinois) , after living in Chicago. [22] (#cite_note-cant_ignore-25) At the age of 10, West moved with his mother to Nanjing, China (/wiki/Nanjing,_China) , where she was teaching at Nanjing University (/wiki/Nanjing_University) as a Fulbright Scholar (/wiki/Fulbright_Program) . [23] (#cite_note-26) According to his mother, West was the only foreigner in his class, but he settled in well and quickly picked up the language, although he has since forgotten most of it. [24] (#cite_note-27) When asked about his grades in high school, West replied, "I got A's and B's." [25] (#cite_note-28) West demonstrated an affinity for the arts at an early age; he began writing poetry when he was five years old. [26] (#cite_note-Chicago-29) West started rapping in the third grade and began making musical compositions in the seventh grade, eventually selling them to other artists. [27] (#cite_note-KanplicatedPg2-30) West crossed paths with producer No I.D. (/wiki/No_I.D.) , who became West's friend and mentor. [28] (#cite_note-:0-31) : 557 After graduating from high school, West received a scholarship to attend Chicago's American Academy of Art (/wiki/American_Academy_of_Art) in 1997 and began taking painting classes. Shortly after, he transferred to Chicago State University to study English. At age 20, he dropped out to pursue his musical career. [29] (#cite_note-32) This greatly displeased his mother, who was also a professor at the university, although she would later accept the decision. [28] (#cite_note-:0-31) : 558 Musical career 1996–2002: Early work and Roc-A-Fella West began his early production career in the mid-1990s, creating beats primarily for burgeoning local artists in the Chicago area. He received his first official production credits at age nineteen, when he produced eight tracks on Down to Earth , the 1996 debut album of Chicago-based underground (/wiki/Underground_hip_hop) rapper Grav. [30] (#cite_note-33) In 1998, West was the first producer signed to the management-production company Hip Hop Since 1978 (/wiki/Hip_Hop_Since_1978) , founded by Gee Roberson and Kyambo "Hip-Hop" Joshua. [31] (#cite_note-34) For a time, West acted as a ghost producer for Deric "D-Dot" Angelettie (/wiki/D-Dot) . Due to his association with Angelettie, West was not able to release a solo album, so he formed the Go-Getters, a hip hop group composed of him and fellow Chicago natives GLC (/wiki/GLC_(rapper)) , Timmy G, Really Doe (/wiki/Really_Doe_(rapper)) , and Arrowstar. [32] (#cite_note-Barber-35) [33] (#cite_note-36) The Go-Getters independently released their first and only studio album, World Record Holders in 1999 through West's company, Konman Productions (/wiki/GOOD_Music) . [32] (#cite_note-Barber-35) West spent much of the late 1990s further producing for several musical acts. [34] (#cite_note-Saddleback-37) He produced the third track on Foxy Brown (/wiki/Foxy_Brown_(rapper)) 's second studio album Chyna Doll (/wiki/Chyna_Doll_(album)) (1999), which became the second hip-hop album by a female rapper to peak atop the US Billboard 200 (/wiki/Billboard_200) chart. [34] (#cite_note-Saddleback-37) West received early acclaim for his production work on Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) 's The Blueprint (/wiki/The_Blueprint) . The two are pictured here in 2011. In 2000, West began producing for artists on Roc-A-Fella Records (/wiki/Roc-A-Fella_Records) as an in-house producer. West is often credited with revitalizing Jay-Z's career with extensive contributions to his 2001 album The Blueprint (/wiki/The_Blueprint) , [35] (#cite_note-Mitchum-38) which Rolling Stone ranked among their list of greatest hip-hop albums. [36] (#cite_note-RS500-39) West produced songs for label cohorts such as Beanie Sigel (/wiki/Beanie_Sigel) and Freeway (/wiki/Freeway_(rapper)) , but also produced beats which were used by artists on other labels including Ludacris (/wiki/Ludacris) , Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) , and Janet Jackson (/wiki/Janet_Jackson) . [35] (#cite_note-Mitchum-38) [37] (#cite_note-auto-40) Meanwhile, West struggled to attain a record deal as a rapper. [38] (#cite_note-Road-41) Multiple record companies, including Capitol Records (/wiki/Capitol_Records) , [27] (#cite_note-KanplicatedPg2-30) denied or ignored him because he did not portray the gangsta (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) image prominent in mainstream hip hop at the time. [28] (#cite_note-:0-31) : 556 Desperate to keep West from defecting to another label, then-label head Damon Dash (/wiki/Damon_Dash) reluctantly signed West to Roc-A-Fella as a recording artist. [28] (#cite_note-:0-31) : 556 [39] (#cite_note-42) A 2002 car accident, which shattered his jaw, [40] (#cite_note-wsws-43) [41] (#cite_note-44) inspired West; two weeks after being admitted to the hospital, he recorded " Through the Wire (/wiki/Through_the_Wire) " at the Record Plant Studios (/wiki/Record_Plant_Studios) with his jaw still wired shut. [40] (#cite_note-wsws-43) The song was first included on West's debut mixtape (/wiki/Mixtape) Get Well Soon... , which was released in December 2002. [42] (#cite_note-45) At the same time, West announced that he was working on an album titled The College Dropout , whose overall theme was to "make your own decisions. Don't let society tell you, 'This is what you have to do.'" [43] (#cite_note-46) 2003–2006: The College Dropout and Late Registration Main articles: The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) and Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) West in Portland (/wiki/Portland,_Oregon) in December 2005 as a supporting act for U2 (/wiki/U2) on their Vertigo Tour (/wiki/Vertigo_Tour) West recorded the remainder of the album in Los Angeles while recovering from the car accident. It was leaked months before its release date, [38] (#cite_note-Road-41) and West used the opportunity to remix, remaster, and revise the album before its release; [44] (#cite_note-47) West added new verses, string arrangements (/wiki/String_section) , gospel choirs (/wiki/Gospel_choir) , and improved drum programming. [38] (#cite_note-Road-41) The album was postponed three times from its initial date in August 2003, [45] (#cite_note-48) [46] (#cite_note-49) and was eventually released in February 2004, reaching No. 2 on the Billboard 200 as his debut single, " Through the Wire (/wiki/Through_the_Wire) " peaked at No. 15 while on the Billboard Hot 100 (/wiki/Billboard_Hot_100) chart for five weeks. [47] (#cite_note-acharts-50) " Slow Jamz (/wiki/Slow_Jamz) ", his second single, featuring Twista (/wiki/Twista) and Jamie Foxx (/wiki/Jamie_Foxx) , became the three musicians' first No. 1 hit. The College Dropout received critical acclaim, was nominated for the top album of the year by American Music Awards (/wiki/American_Music_Awards_of_2004) and Billboard (/wiki/2004_Billboard_Music_Awards) , [48] (#cite_note-51) [49] (#cite_note-52) and has consistently been ranked among the great hip-hop works and debut albums by artists. [50] (#cite_note-USAToday-53) [51] (#cite_note-NYTimes-54) " Jesus Walks (/wiki/Jesus_Walks) ", the album's fourth single, reached the top 20 of the Billboard pop charts, despite industry executives' predictions that a song containing such blatant declarations of faith would never make it to the radio. [50] (#cite_note-USAToday-53) [51] (#cite_note-NYTimes-54) The College Dropout was certified triple platinum (/wiki/RIAA_certification) in the U.S., and garnered West 10 Grammy nominations, including Album of the Year (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Album_of_the_Year) , and Best Rap Album (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Album) (which it received). [52] (#cite_note-grammy-55) During this period, West founded GOOD Music, a record label and management company that housed affiliate artists and producers, such as No I.D. and John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) , [53] (#cite_note-Sheffield-56) and produced singles for Brandy (/wiki/Brandy_(musician)) , Common (/wiki/Common_(rapper)) , Legend, and Slum Village (/wiki/Slum_Village) . [54] (#cite_note-57) West invested $2 million and took over a year to make his second album. [55] (#cite_note-58) West was inspired by Roseland NYC Live (/wiki/Roseland_NYC_Live) , a 1998 live album by English trip hop (/wiki/Trip_hop) group Portishead (/wiki/Portishead_(band)) , produced with the New York Philharmonic Orchestra (/wiki/New_York_Philharmonic_Orchestra) , [56] (#cite_note-Praise-59) incorporating string arrangements (/wiki/String_arrangement) into his hip-hop production. Though West had not been able to afford many live instruments around the time of his debut album, the money from his commercial success enabled him to hire a string orchestra (/wiki/String_orchestra) for his second album Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) . [56] (#cite_note-Praise-59) West collaborated with American film score (/wiki/Film_score) composer Jon Brion (/wiki/Jon_Brion) , who served as the album's co-executive producer for several tracks. [57] (#cite_note-Pilot-60) [58] (#cite_note-Pg124-61) Late Registration sold over 2.3 million units in the United States alone by the end of 2005 and was considered by industry observers as the only successful major album release of the fall season, which had been plagued by steadily declining CD sales. [59] (#cite_note-62) When his song " Touch the Sky (/wiki/Touch_the_Sky_(Kanye_West_song)) " failed to win Best Video at the 2006 MTV Europe Music Awards (/wiki/MTV_Europe_Music_Awards) , West went onto the stage as the award was being presented to Justice (/wiki/Justice_(band)) and Simian (/wiki/Simian_(band)) for " We Are Your Friends (/wiki/We_Are_Your_Friends_(song)) " and argued that he should have won the award instead. [60] (#cite_note-63) [61] (#cite_note-64) Hundreds of news outlets worldwide criticized the outburst. On November 7, 2006, West apologized for this outburst publicly during his performance as support act for U2 (/wiki/U2) for their Vertigo concert in Brisbane (/wiki/Brisbane) . [62] (#cite_note-65) He later spoofed the incident on the 33rd-season premiere of Saturday Night Live in September 2007. [63] (#cite_note-snlarchives-66) 2007–2009: Graduation , 808s & Heartbreak , and VMAs incident Main articles: Graduation (album) (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) , 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) , and Kanye West MTV Video Music Awards controversy (/wiki/Kanye_West_MTV_Video_Music_Awards_controversy) West's third studio album, Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) , garnered major publicity when its release date pitted West in a sales competition against rapper 50 Cent (/wiki/50_Cent) 's Curtis (/wiki/Curtis_(50_Cent_album)) . [64] (#cite_note-Reid-67) Upon their September 2007 releases, Graduation outsold Curtis by a large margin, debuting at number one on the U.S. Billboard 200 chart and selling 957,000 copies in its first week. [65] (#cite_note-firstday-68) Graduation continued the string of critical and commercial successes by West, and the album's lead single, " Stronger (/wiki/Stronger_(Kanye_West_song)) ", garnered his third number-one hit. [66] (#cite_note-69) "Stronger", which samples French house duo Daft Punk (/wiki/Daft_Punk) , has been accredited to not only encouraging other hip-hop artists to incorporate house (/wiki/House_(music)) and electronica (/wiki/Electronica) elements into their music, but also for playing a part in the revival of disco (/wiki/Disco) and electro (/wiki/Electro_music) -infused music in the late 2000s. [67] (#cite_note-70) His mother's death in November 2007 [68] (#cite_note-71) and the end of his engagement to Alexis Phifer [69] (#cite_note-72) profoundly affected West, who set off for his 2008 Glow in the Dark Tour (/wiki/Glow_in_the_Dark_Tour) shortly thereafter. [70] (#cite_note-73) West performing in 2008 Recorded mostly in Honolulu, Hawaii (/wiki/Honolulu,_Hawaii) in three weeks, [71] (#cite_note-TheFader-74) West announced his fourth album, 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) , at the 2008 MTV Video Music Awards (/wiki/2008_MTV_Video_Music_Awards) , where he performed its lead single, " Love Lockdown (/wiki/Love_Lockdown) ". Music audiences were taken aback by the uncharacteristic production style and the presence of Auto-Tune, which typified the pre-release response to the record. [72] (#cite_note-Observer-75) 808s & Heartbreak was released by Island Def Jam (/wiki/Island_Def_Jam) in November 2008. [73] (#cite_note-Question-76) [74] (#cite_note-Sales-77) Upon its release, the lead single " Love Lockdown (/wiki/Love_Lockdown) " debuted at number three on the Billboard Hot 100, [75] (#cite_note-78) while follow-up single " Heartless (/wiki/Heartless_(Kanye_West_song)) " debuted at number four. [76] (#cite_note-79) While it was criticized prior to release, 808s & Heartbreak is considered to have had a significant effect on hip-hop music, encouraging other rappers to take more creative risks with their productions. [77] (#cite_note-80) While Taylor Swift (/wiki/Taylor_Swift) was accepting her award for Best Female Video at the 2009 MTV Video Music Awards (/wiki/Kanye_West_MTV_Video_Music_Awards_controversy) , West went on stage and grabbed the microphone from her to proclaim that Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9_Knowles) deserved the award instead. He was subsequently removed from the remainder of the show for his actions. [78] (#cite_note-Cnn.com-81) [79] (#cite_note-rollingstone.com-82) [80] (#cite_note-83) West was criticized by various celebrities for the outburst, [78] (#cite_note-Cnn.com-81) [81] (#cite_note-84) [82] (#cite_note-latfallout-85) [83] (#cite_note-MTV-86) and by President Barack Obama (/wiki/Barack_Obama) , who called West a "jackass". [84] (#cite_note-BBCquote-87) [85] (#cite_note-politico.com-88) [86] (#cite_note-people.com-89) [87] (#cite_note-www.foxnews.com-90) The incident sparked a large influx of Internet photo memes (/wiki/Internet_meme) . [88] (#cite_note-91) West subsequently apologized, [82] (#cite_note-latfallout-85) [89] (#cite_note-92) including personally to Swift. [90] (#cite_note-MTV.com-93) [91] (#cite_note-msnbc.msn.com-94) However, in a November 2010 interview, he seemed to recant his past apologies, describing the act at the 2009 awards show as "selfless". [92] (#cite_note-95) [93] (#cite_note-96) 2010–2012: My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy , Watch the Throne , and Cruel Summer Main articles: My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) , Watch the Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) , and Cruel Summer (GOOD Music album) (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) Following the highly publicized incident, West took a brief break from music and threw himself into fashion, only to hole up in Hawaii for the next few months writing and recording his next album. [94] (#cite_note-Bever-97) Importing his favorite producers and artists to work on and inspire his recording, West kept engineers behind the boards 24 hours a day and slept only in increments. Noah Callahan-Bever, a writer for Complex (/wiki/Complex_(magazine)) , was present during the sessions and described the "communal" atmosphere as thus: "With the right songs and the right album, he can overcome any and all controversy, and we are here to contribute, challenge, and inspire." [94] (#cite_note-Bever-97) A variety of artists contributed to the project, including close friends Jay-Z, Kid Cudi and Pusha T (/wiki/Pusha_T) , as well as collaborations with artists including Justin Vernon (/wiki/Justin_Vernon) of Bon Iver (/wiki/Bon_Iver) and Gil Scott Heron (/wiki/Gil_Scott_Heron) . [95] (#cite_note-98) West at the SWU Music & Arts (/wiki/SWU_Music_%26_Arts) Festival in Brazil in 2011 My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) , West's fifth studio album, was released in November 2010 to widespread acclaim from critics, many of whom considered it his best work and said it solidified his comeback. [96] (#cite_note-99) In stark contrast to his previous effort, which featured a minimalist sound, Dark Fantasy adopts a maximalist philosophy and deals with themes of celebrity and excess. [53] (#cite_note-Sheffield-56) The record included the international hit " All of the Lights (/wiki/All_of_the_Lights) ", and Billboard hits " Power (/wiki/Power_(Kanye_West_song)) ", " Monster (/wiki/Monster_(Kanye_West_song)) ", and " Runaway (/wiki/Runaway_(Kanye_West_song)) ", [97] (#cite_note-Hot100-100) the latter of which accompanied a 35-minute film of the same name (/wiki/Runaway_(2010_film)) directed by and starring West. [98] (#cite_note-BillboardPremiere-101) During this time, West initiated the free music program GOOD Fridays (/wiki/GOOD_Fridays) through his website, offering a free download of previously unreleased songs each Friday, a portion of which were included on the album. This promotion ran from August to December 2010. [99] (#cite_note-102) Dark Fantasy went on to go platinum in the United States, [100] (#cite_note-RIAA-103) but its omission as a contender for Album of the Year (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Album_of_the_Year) at the 54th Grammy Awards (/wiki/54th_Grammy_Awards) was viewed as a "snub" by several media outlets. [101] (#cite_note-104) 2011 saw West embark on a festival tour to commemorate the release of My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy performing and headlining numerous festivals including; SWU Music & Arts (/wiki/SWU_Music_%26_Arts) , Austin City Limits Music Festival (/wiki/Austin_City_Limits_Music_Festival) , Oya Festival (/wiki/%C3%98yafestivalen) , Flow Festival (/wiki/Flow_Festival#2011) , Live Music Festival (/wiki/Live_Music_Festival#2011) , The Big Chill (/wiki/The_Big_Chill_(music_festival)#Past_line-ups) , Essence Music Festival (/wiki/Essence_Music_Festival#2011) , Lollapalooza (/wiki/List_of_Lollapalooza_lineups_by_year#2011) and Coachella (/wiki/Coachella_Valley_Music_and_Arts_Festival) which was described by The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) as "one of greatest hip-hop sets of all time", [102] (#cite_note-105) West released the collaborative album Watch the Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) with Jay-Z in August 2011. By employing a sales strategy that released the album digitally weeks before its physical counterpart, Watch the Throne became one of the few major label albums in the Internet age (/wiki/Internet_age) to avoid a leak (/wiki/Music_leak) . [103] (#cite_note-106) [104] (#cite_note-107) " Niggas in Paris (/wiki/Niggas_in_Paris) " became the record's highest-charting single, peaking at number five on the Billboard Hot 100. [97] (#cite_note-Hot100-100) The co-headlining Watch the Throne Tour (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne_Tour) kicked off in October 2011 and concluded in June 2012. [105] (#cite_note-108) In 2012, West released the compilation album (/wiki/Compilation_album) Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) , a collection of tracks by artists from West's record label GOOD Music. 2013–2015: Yeezus and the Yeezus Tour Main articles: Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) and The Yeezus Tour (/wiki/The_Yeezus_Tour) Sessions for West's sixth solo effort begin to take shape in early 2013 in his own personal loft's living room at a Paris hotel. [106] (#cite_note-NewYorkTimes-109) Determined to "undermine the commercial", [107] (#cite_note-sessions-110) he once again brought together close collaborators and attempted to incorporate Chicago drill (/wiki/Drill_(music_genre)) , dancehall (/wiki/Dancehall) , acid house (/wiki/Acid_house) , and industrial music (/wiki/Industrial_music) . [108] (#cite_note-chicagotribune-111) Primarily inspired by architecture, [106] (#cite_note-NewYorkTimes-109) West's perfectionist tendencies led him to contact producer Rick Rubin (/wiki/Rick_Rubin) fifteen days shy of its due date to strip down the record's sound in favor of a more minimalist approach. [109] (#cite_note-Rstonerubin-112) Initial promotion of his sixth album included worldwide video projections of the album's music and live television performances. [110] (#cite_note-113) [111] (#cite_note-snl-114) Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) , West's sixth album, was released June 18, 2013, to rave reviews from critics. [112] (#cite_note-115) It became his sixth consecutive number one debut, but also marked his lowest solo opening week sales. [113] (#cite_note-billboard123-116) West on the Yeezus Tour (/wiki/Yeezus_Tour) in 2013 In September 2013, West announced he would be headlining his first solo tour in five years (/wiki/The_Yeezus_Tour) , to support Yeezus , with fellow American rapper Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) accompanying him as a supporting act. [114] (#cite_note-117) [115] (#cite_note-118) The tour was met with rave reviews from critics. [116] (#cite_note-rsyeezus-119) Rolling Stone described it as "crazily entertaining, hugely ambitious, emotionally affecting (really!) and, most importantly, totally bonkers". [116] (#cite_note-rsyeezus-119) Writing for Forbes , Zack O'Malley Greenburg praised West for "taking risks that few pop stars, if any, are willing to take in today's hyper-exposed world of pop", describing the show as "overwrought and uncomfortable at times, but [it] excels at challenging norms and provoking thought in a way that just isn't common for mainstream musical acts of late". [117] (#cite_note-Greenburg-120) West subsequently released a number of singles featuring Paul McCartney (/wiki/Paul_McCartney) , including " Only One (/wiki/Only_One_(Kanye_West_song)) " [118] (#cite_note-121) and " FourFiveSeconds (/wiki/FourFiveSeconds) ", also featuring Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) . [119] (#cite_note-122) In November 2013, West stated that he was beginning work on his next studio album, hoping to release it by mid-2014, [120] (#cite_note-123) with production by Rick Rubin and Q-Tip (/wiki/Q-Tip_(musician)) . [121] (#cite_note-124) Having initially announced a new album entitled Yeezus II slated for a 2014 release, West announced in March 2015 that the album would instead be tentatively called So Help Me God . [122] (#cite_note-125) In May 2015, West was awarded an honorary doctorate (/wiki/Honorary_doctorate) by the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (/wiki/School_of_the_Art_Institute_of_Chicago) for his contributions to music, fashion, and popular culture. [123] (#cite_note-126) [124] (#cite_note-127) [d] (#cite_note-129) The next month, West headlined at the Glastonbury Festival (/wiki/Glastonbury_Festival) in the UK, despite a petition signed by almost 135,000 people against his appearance. [126] (#cite_note-130) Another petition aimed to block West from headlining the 2015 Pan American Games (/wiki/2015_Pan_American_Games) , garnering 50,000 supporters. [127] (#cite_note-131) 2016–2017: The Life of Pablo and tour cancellation Main article: The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) West announced in January 2016 that SWISH would be released on February 11, and later that month, released new songs " Real Friends (/wiki/Real_Friends_(Kanye_West_song)) " and a snippet of " No More Parties in LA (/wiki/No_More_Parties_in_LA) " with Kendrick Lamar. On January 26, 2016, West revealed he had renamed the album from SWISH to Waves . [128] (#cite_note-132) In the weeks leading up to the album's release, West became embroiled in several Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) controversies. [129] (#cite_note-dailybeast-133) Several days ahead of its release, West again changed the title, this time to The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) . [130] (#cite_note-134) [131] (#cite_note-135) On February 11, West premiered the album at Madison Square Garden (/wiki/Madison_Square_Garden) as part of the presentation of his Yeezy Season 3 clothing line. [132] (#cite_note-pitchfork.com-136) Following the preview, West announced that he would be modifying the tracklist once more before its release to the public. [133] (#cite_note-137) He released the album exclusively on Tidal (/wiki/Tidal_(service)) on February 14, 2016, following a performance on SNL (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) . [134] (#cite_note-138) [135] (#cite_note-Pitchfork-139) Following its release, West continued to tinker with mixes of several tracks, describing the work as "a living breathing changing creative expression" [136] (#cite_note-fader-140) and proclaiming the end of the album (/wiki/Music_album) as a dominant release form. [137] (#cite_note-slate-141) Despite West's earlier comments, in addition to Tidal, the album was released through several other competing services starting in April. [138] (#cite_note-142) West on the Saint Pablo Tour (/wiki/Saint_Pablo_Tour) in 2016 In February 2016, West stated on Twitter that he was planning to release another album in the summer of 2016, tentatively called Turbo Grafx 16 in reference to the 1990s video game console of the same name (/wiki/TurboGrafx-16) . [139] (#cite_note-143) [140] (#cite_note-144) In June 2016, West released the collaborative lead single " Champions (/wiki/Champions_(GOOD_Music_song)) " off the GOOD Music album Cruel Winter , which has yet to be released. [141] (#cite_note-6_Minute_Track-145) [142] (#cite_note-146) Later that month, West released a controversial video for " Famous (/wiki/Famous_(Kanye_West_song)) ", which depicted wax figures of several celebrities (including West, Kardashian, Taylor Swift, businessman and then-presidential candidate Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) , comedian Bill Cosby (/wiki/Bill_Cosby) , and former president George W. Bush) sleeping nude in a shared bed. [143] (#cite_note-147) In August 2016, West embarked on the Saint Pablo Tour (/wiki/Saint_Pablo_Tour) in support of The Life of Pablo. [144] (#cite_note-hhd-148) The performances featured a mobile stage suspended from the ceiling. [144] (#cite_note-hhd-148) West postponed several dates in October following the Paris robbery of several of his wife's effects. [145] (#cite_note-bbm-149) On November 21, 2016, West cancelled the remaining 21 dates on the Saint Pablo Tour, following a week of no-shows, curtailed concerts and rants about politics. [146] (#cite_note-150) He was later admitted for psychiatric observation at UCLA Medical Center (/wiki/Ronald_Reagan_UCLA_Medical_Center) . [147] (#cite_note-151) [148] (#cite_note-152) He stayed hospitalized over the Thanksgiving weekend because of a temporary psychosis stemming from sleep deprivation and extreme dehydration. [149] (#cite_note-153) Following this episode West took an 11-month break from posting on Twitter and the public in general. [150] (#cite_note-154) 2017–2019: Ye and the Wyoming Sessions Main articles: Ye (album) (/wiki/Ye_(album)) and Kids See Ghosts (album) (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(album)) See also: Daytona (album) (/wiki/Daytona_(album)) , Nasir (album) (/wiki/Nasir_(album)) , and K.T.S.E. (/wiki/K.T.S.E.) It was reported in May 2017 that West was recording new music in Jackson Hole, Wyoming (/wiki/Jackson_Hole,_Wyoming) , with a wide range of collaborators. [151] (#cite_note-155) [152] (#cite_note-156) In April 2018, West announced plans to write a philosophy book entitled Break the Simulation , [153] (#cite_note-157) later clarifying that he was sharing the book "in real time" on Twitter and began posting content that was likened to " life coaching (/wiki/Life_coaching) ". [154] (#cite_note-Kanyelifecoach-158) Later that month, he also announced two new albums, a solo album and self-titled collaboration with Kid Cudi under the name Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts) , both of which would be released in June. [155] (#cite_note-159) Additionally, he revealed he would produce upcoming albums by GOOD Music label-mates Pusha T (/wiki/Pusha_T) and Teyana Taylor (/wiki/Teyana_Taylor) , as well as Nas (/wiki/Nas) . [156] (#cite_note-160) Shortly thereafter, West released the non-album singles " Lift Yourself (/wiki/Lift_Yourself) " and " Ye vs. the People (/wiki/Ye_vs._the_People) ", in which he and T.I. (/wiki/T.I.) discussed West's support of Donald Trump. [157] (#cite_note-161) Pusha T's Daytona (/wiki/Daytona_(album)) , "the first project out of Wyoming", was released in May to critical acclaim, although the album's artwork—a photograph of deceased singer Whitney Houston (/wiki/Whitney_Houston) 's bathroom that West paid $85,000 to license—attracted some controversy. [158] (#cite_note-Recording-162) [159] (#cite_note-163) The following week, West released his eighth studio album, Ye (/wiki/Ye_(album)) . West has suggested that he scrapped the original recordings of the album and re-recorded it within a month. [160] (#cite_note-164) The week after, West released a collaborative album with Kid Cudi, titled Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(album)) , named after their group of the same name. West also completed production work on Nas' Nasir (/wiki/Nasir_(album)) [161] (#cite_note-165) and Teyana Taylor's K.T.S.E. (/wiki/K.T.S.E.) , which were released in June 2018. [162] (#cite_note-166) In September, West announced his ninth studio album Yandhi (/wiki/Yandhi) to be released by the end of the month and a collaborative album with fellow Chicagoan rapper Chance the Rapper titled Good Ass Job . That same month, West announced that he would be changing his stage name to "Ye". [163] (#cite_note-The_Guardian_29_September_2018-167) Yandhi was originally set for release in September 2018 but was postponed multiple times. [164] (#cite_note-168) In January 2019, West pulled out of headlining that year's Coachella festival after negotiations broke down due to discord regarding stage design. [165] (#cite_note-169) In July, it was reported that songs from West's unreleased album Yandhi were leaked online. [166] (#cite_note-170) The following month, Kim Kardashian announced that West's next album would be titled Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) , effectively scrapping Yandhi . [167] (#cite_note-171) [168] (#cite_note-172) By October, the entire unfinished album was available for a short time on streaming services Spotify and Tidal. [169] (#cite_note-173) 2019–2022: Jesus Is King , Donda , and Donda 2 Main articles: Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) , Donda (/wiki/Donda) , and Donda 2 (/wiki/Donda_2) On January 6, 2019, West started his weekly " Sunday Service (/wiki/Sunday_Service_(group)) " events, which included soul variations of both West's and others' songs and were attended by multiple celebrities, including the Kardashians, Charlie Wilson (/wiki/Charlie_Wilson_(singer)) , and Kid Cudi. [170] (#cite_note-Hearst_Magazine_Media,_Inc.-174) West previewed a new song, " Water (/wiki/Water_(Kanye_West_song)) " at his "Sunday Service" orchestration performance at Coachella 2019, [171] (#cite_note-175) which was later revealed to feature on his upcoming album Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) ; [172] (#cite_note-track-176) West released the album on October 25, 2019. [173] (#cite_note-Ryan2019-177) It became the first to ever top the Billboard 200, Top R&B/Hip-Hop Albums, Top Rap Albums, Top Christian Albums and Top Gospel Albums at the same time. [174] (#cite_note-178) On December 25, 2019, West and Sunday Service released Jesus Is Born (/wiki/Jesus_Is_Born) , containing 19 songs, including several re-workings of older West songs. [175] (#cite_note-179) West released a single titled " Wash Us in the Blood (/wiki/Wash_Us_in_the_Blood) " on June 30, 2020, featuring fellow American rapper and singer Travis Scott (/wiki/Travis_Scott) , along with the music video, which was set to serve as the lead single from his tenth studio album Donda (/wiki/Donda) . [176] (#cite_note-180) However, in September 2020, West stated that he would not be releasing any further music until he is "done with [his] contract with Sony and Universal". [177] (#cite_note-181) On October 16, he released the single " Nah Nah Nah (/wiki/Nah_Nah_Nah) ". [178] (#cite_note-182) West held several listening parties at Mercedes-Benz Stadium (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Stadium) for his upcoming album Donda in the summer of 2021, where he had taken up temporary residence in one of the stadium's locker rooms, converting it into a recording studio to finish the recording. [179] (#cite_note-183) [180] (#cite_note-184) After multiple delays, Donda was released on August 29, 2021. [181] (#cite_note-185) West claimed the album was released early without his approval and alleged that Universal had altered the tracklist. [182] (#cite_note-186) He released a deluxe edition of Donda , including five new songs, to streaming services on November 14, 2021. [183] (#cite_note-187) On November 20, days after ending their long-running feud, [184] (#cite_note-188) West and rapper Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) confirmed that they would stage the "Free Larry Hoover (/wiki/Larry_Hoover) " benefit concert on December 9 at the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Memorial_Coliseum) . [185] (#cite_note-189) On January 5, 2022, West was announced as one of the 2022 headliners of Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival (/wiki/Coachella_Valley_Music_and_Arts_Festival) . [186] (#cite_note-190) Later that month on January 15, West released the first single for his upcoming album Donda 2 (/wiki/Donda_2) , " Eazy (/wiki/Eazy_(Kanye_West_%26_The_Game_song)) " featuring The Game (/wiki/The_Game_(rapper)) , [187] (#cite_note-191) to be executive produced by American rapper Future (/wiki/Future_(rapper)) . [188] (#cite_note-ReleaseDate-192) West hosted a listening event for the album at LoanDepot Park (/wiki/LoanDepot_Park) in Miami, Florida, on February 22. [189] (#cite_note-193) In April, shortly before Coachella, West pulled out as headlining act, [190] (#cite_note-194) then proceeded to pull out of headlining Rolling Loud (/wiki/Rolling_Loud) . [191] (#cite_note-195) West and The Game performed the single on July 22, marking West's first performance in five months following the low profile he had been keeping since Donda 2 remained unfinished. [192] (#cite_note-196) A day later, despite cancelling as headliner, he appeared at Rolling Loud during Lil Durk (/wiki/Lil_Durk) 's set. [193] (#cite_note-197) In December 2022, after weeks of controversial antisemitic statements (/wiki/Views_of_Kanye_West#Race_and_antisemitism) , West released a new song "Someday We'll All Be Free" on his Instagram. [194] (#cite_note-198) 2023–present: Vultures trilogy and Y3 Main article: Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) ¥$ listening party in Bologna, Italy (/wiki/Bologna,_Italy) , for Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) (2024) On August 25, 2023, West was reported to be in the process of recording his eleventh studio album, with two sources close to him stating that the release of new music was "imminent". [195] (#cite_note-199) On October 13, Billboard reported that West had finished recording a collaborative studio album (/wiki/Vultures_(Kanye_West_and_Ty_Dolla_Sign_album)) with Ty Dolla Sign (/wiki/Ty_Dolla_Sign) and was in the process of shopping the album to distributors, adding that the album was originally intended for an official release that day but was ultimately pushed back for unknown reasons and expected to drop within the coming weeks. [196] (#cite_note-200) On October 23, Ty Dolla Sign announced that he and West would be holding a "multi-stadium listening event" on November 3 to promote their collaborative project. [197] (#cite_note-201) On November 22, 2023, West and Ty Dolla Sign released the eponymous lead single for the album, " Vultures (/wiki/Vultures_(song)) " featuring Bump J (/wiki/Bump_J) . [198] (#cite_note-202) Two additional versions of the song were later released: A version of the song featuring Lil Durk (/wiki/Lil_Durk) alongside Bump J on November 23, 2023, and a version of the song produced by Mobb Deep (/wiki/Mobb_Deep) rapper Havoc (/wiki/Havoc_(musician)) on February 8, 2024. [199] (#cite_note-203) [200] (#cite_note-204) West and Ty Dolla $ign held several listening parties prior to the release of Vultures , including "Vultures Rave" performances in Miami (/wiki/Miami) and Las Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas) in December 2023 and listening parties at United Center (/wiki/United_Center) in Chicago and UBS Arena (/wiki/UBS_Arena) in the New York City area on February 7 and 8, 2024. On January 23, 2024, West released a trailer for Vultures directed by Jon Rafman (/wiki/Jon_Rafman) . Through the trailer, West announced that Vultures would instead be released as a trilogy of albums, with each of the album's three volumes set to be released on February 9, March 6, and April 5, 2024. In January 2024, Kanye West co-signed 4Batz (/wiki/4Batz) and called him his favorite new artist. [201] (#cite_note-205) [202] (#cite_note-206) On February 8, 2024, West released the first volume's second single, " Talking / Once Again (/wiki/Talking_/_Once_Again) " featuring his eldest daughter North, as well as a compilation pack entitled Vultures Pack composed of the eponymous song's three released versions. [203] (#cite_note-207) [204] (#cite_note-208) On February 9, 2024, during an interview of Erick Sermon (/wiki/Erick_Sermon) on the Bootleg Kev podcast, Sermon revealed that West's upcoming eleventh studio album was titled Y3 , while also stating that he had originally contributed to Y3 in May – June 2023 and later contributed to Vultures after traveling to Florence (/wiki/Florence) and discovering West had switched his focus entirely towards the latter project. [205] (#cite_note-209) On February 10, 2024, hours after West held a listening party at UBS Arena, the first volume of the Vultures trilogy, entitled Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) , was officially released. [206] (#cite_note-210) [207] (#cite_note-211) The album debuted at number one on the Billboard 200, becoming West's eleventh consecutive and Ty Dolla Sign's first number one album, respectively. [208] (#cite_note-:02-212) Musical style West performing in 2012 West's musical career is defined by frequent stylistic shifts and different musical approaches. [2] (#cite_note-amg-4) In the subsequent years since his debut, West has both musically and lyrically taken an increasingly experimental (/wiki/Experimental_music) approach to crafting progressive hip hop (/wiki/Progressive_rap) music while maintaining accessible pop (/wiki/Popular_music) sensibilities. [209] (#cite_note-Gates,_Henry_Louis,_et_al._2010_705–713-213) [210] (#cite_note-Caramanica-214) [211] (#cite_note-Rob_Tannenbaum_2006_p._49-215) Ed Ledsham of PopMatters (/wiki/PopMatters) said that "West's melding of multiple genres into the hip-hop fold is a complex act that challenges the dominant white notions of what constitutes true 'art' music (/wiki/Art_music) ." [212] (#cite_note-216) West's rhymes have been described as funny, provocative and articulate, capable of seamlessly segueing from shrewd commentary to comical braggadocio (/wiki/Braggadocio_(rap)) to introspective sensitivity. [213] (#cite_note-McCormick-217) West imparts that he strives to speak in an inclusive manner so groups from different racial and gender backgrounds can comprehend his lyrics, saying he desired to sound "just as ill as Jadakiss (/wiki/Jadakiss) and just as understandable as Will Smith (/wiki/Will_Smith) ". [214] (#cite_note-Vh1-218) Early in his career, West pioneered a style of hip-hop production dubbed "chipmunk-soul", [215] (#cite_note-219) [216] (#cite_note-Cowie,_Del-220) a sampling technique involving the manipulation of tempo in order to chop (/wiki/Chopping_(sampling_technique)) and stretch pitched-up (/wiki/Pitch_(music)) samples from vintage soul songs. [217] (#cite_note-king-221) [218] (#cite_note-Ryan-222) On his debut studio album, The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) (2004), West formed the constitutive elements of his style, described as intricate hip-hop beats, topical subject matter, and clumsy rapping laced with inventive wordplay. [209] (#cite_note-Gates,_Henry_Louis,_et_al._2010_705–713-213) [219] (#cite_note-auto1-223) The record saw West diverge from the then-dominant gangster persona (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) in hip hop in favor of more diverse, topical lyrical subjects, [220] (#cite_note-ebony-224) including higher education, materialism, self-consciousness (/wiki/Self-consciousness) , minimum-wage (/wiki/Minimum-wage) labor, institutional prejudice (/wiki/Institutional_racism) , class struggle (/wiki/Class_struggle) , family, sexuality, his struggles in the music industry, and middle-class (/wiki/Middle-class) upbringing. [221] (#cite_note-Love-225) [222] (#cite_note-226) [210] (#cite_note-Caramanica-214) Over time, West has explored a variety of music genres (/wiki/Music_genre) , encompassing and taking inspiration from chamber pop (/wiki/Chamber_pop) on his second studio album, Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) (2005), [57] (#cite_note-Pilot-60) arena rock (/wiki/Arena_rock) and europop (/wiki/Europop) on his third album, Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) (2007), [223] (#cite_note-Greene-227) [224] (#cite_note-Loop-228) synth (/wiki/Synthpop) -driven electropop (/wiki/Electropop) on his fourth album, 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) (2008), [225] (#cite_note-229) [226] (#cite_note-230) acid-house (/wiki/Acid_house) , drill (/wiki/Drill_(music_genre)) , industrial rap (/wiki/Industrial_hip_hop) and trap (/wiki/Trap_music_(hip_hop)) on Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) (2013), [108] (#cite_note-chicagotribune-111) [227] (#cite_note-atlantic-231) gospel (/wiki/Gospel_(music)) and Christian rap (/wiki/Christian_hip_hop) on The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) (2016), Jesus is King (/wiki/Jesus_is_King) (2019) and Donda (/wiki/Donda) (2021), [228] (#cite_note-232) [229] (#cite_note-rs-wip-233) [230] (#cite_note-rs-detroit-234) [231] (#cite_note-ConsequenceReview-235) and psychedelic music (/wiki/Psychedelic_music) on Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(album)) (2018). [232] (#cite_note-236) Other ventures Fashion Early in his career, West made clear his interest in fashion and desire to work in the clothing design industry. [2] (#cite_note-amg-4) [106] (#cite_note-NewYorkTimes-109) He launched his own clothing line in spring 2006, [233] (#cite_note-237) and developed it over the following four years before the line was ultimately cancelled in 2009. [234] (#cite_note-238) [235] (#cite_note-239) In January 2007, West's first sneaker collaboration was released, a special-edition Bapesta from A Bathing Ape (/wiki/A_Bathing_Ape) . [236] (#cite_note-240) [237] (#cite_note-241) In 2009, West collaborated with Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) to release his own shoe, the Air Yeezys (/wiki/Nike_Air_Yeezy) , becoming the first non-athlete to be given a shoe deal with the company. [238] (#cite_note-242) In January 2009, he introduced his first shoe line designed for Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) during Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) . The line was released in summer 2009. [239] (#cite_note-243) West has additionally designed shoewear for Italian shoemaker Giuseppe Zanotti (/wiki/Giuseppe_Zanotti) . [240] (#cite_note-244) In fall 2009, West moved to Rome (/wiki/Rome) , where he interned at Italian fashion brand Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) , giving ideas for the men's collection. [241] (#cite_note-245) In March 2011, West collaborated with M/M Paris (/wiki/M/M_Paris) for a series of silk scarves featuring artwork from My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy . [242] (#cite_note-246) In October 2011, West premiered his women's fashion label at Paris Fashion Week. [243] (#cite_note-TIFDb-247) His debut fashion show received mixed-to-negative reviews. [244] (#cite_note-248) In March 2012, West premiered a second fashion line at Paris Fashion Week. [245] (#cite_note-249) [246] (#cite_note-250) Critics deemed the sophomore effort "much improved" compared to his first show. [247] (#cite_note-251) On December 3, 2013, Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) officially confirmed a new shoe collaboration deal with West. [248] (#cite_note-Little-252) After months of anticipation and rumors, West confirmed the release of the Adidas Yeezy (/wiki/Adidas_Yeezy) Boosts. In 2015, West unveiled a Yeezy clothing line, premiering in collaboration with Adidas early that year. [249] (#cite_note-253) In June 2016, Adidas announced a new long-term contract with Kanye West that extended the Yeezy line to a number of stores, planning to sell sports performance products like basketball, football, and soccer, [250] (#cite_note-newcontract-254) although Adidas terminated the partnership with West in October 2022 due to his antisemitic remarks. [251] (#cite_note-255) In May 2021, West signed a 10-year deal linking Yeezy with GAP (/wiki/Gap_Inc.) to create Yeezy Gap (/wiki/Yeezy_Gap) , however, in September 2022, West announced that he was ending the deal. [252] (#cite_note-256) Business ventures West founded the record label and production company GOOD Music (/wiki/GOOD_Music) in 2004, in conjunction with Sony BMG (/wiki/Sony_BMG_Music_Entertainment) , shortly after releasing his debut album, The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) . West, alongside then-unknown Ohio (/wiki/Ohio) singer John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) and fellow Chicago rapper Common (/wiki/Common_(rapper)) were the label's inaugural artists. [253] (#cite_note-Founded-257) The label houses artists including West, Big Sean (/wiki/Big_Sean) , Pusha T, Teyana Taylor, Yasiin Bey / Mos Def, D'banj (/wiki/D%27banj) and John Legend, and producers including Hudson Mohawke (/wiki/Hudson_Mohawke) , Q-Tip, Travis Scott (/wiki/Travis_Scott_(musician)) , No I.D., Jeff Bhasker (/wiki/Jeff_Bhasker) , and S1. GOOD Music has released ten albums certified gold (/wiki/RIAA_certification) or higher by the Recording Industry Association of America (/wiki/Recording_Industry_Association_of_America) (RIAA). In November 2015, West appointed Pusha T the new president of GOOD Music. [254] (#cite_note-258) In August 2008, West revealed plans to open 10 Fatburger (/wiki/Fatburger) restaurants in the Chicago area; the first was set to open in September 2008 in Orland Park. The second followed in January 2009, while a third location is yet to be revealed, although the process is being finalized. His company, KW Foods LLC, bought the rights to the chain in Chicago. [255] (#cite_note-259) Ultimately, in 2009, only two locations actually opened. In February 2011, West shut down the Fatburger located in Orland Park (/wiki/Orland_Park,_Illinois) . [256] (#cite_note-260) In January 2012, West announced his establishment of the creative content company Donda (/wiki/Donda_(company)) , named after his late mother. [257] (#cite_note-261) In his announcement, West proclaimed that the company would "pick up where Steve Jobs (/wiki/Steve_Jobs) left off"; Donda would operate as a "design company" with a goal to "make products and experiences that people want and can afford". [258] (#cite_note-vh1.com-262) In stating Donda's creative philosophy, West articulated the need to "put creatives in a room together with like minds" in order to "simplify and aesthetically improve everything we see, taste, touch, and feel." [258] (#cite_note-vh1.com-262) West is notoriously secretive about the company's operations, maintaining neither an official website nor a social media presence. [259] (#cite_note-263) [260] (#cite_note-264) Contemporary critics have noted the consistent minimalistic aesthetic exhibited throughout Donda creative projects. [261] (#cite_note-265) [262] (#cite_note-266) [263] (#cite_note-267) West expressed interest in starting an architecture firm in May 2013, saying "I want to do product, I am a product person, not just clothing but water bottle design, architecture ... I make music but I shouldn't be limited to one place of creativity" [264] (#cite_note-268) [265] (#cite_note-269) and then later in November 2013, delivering a manifesto (/wiki/Manifesto) on his architectural goals during a visit to Harvard Graduate School of Design (/wiki/Harvard_Graduate_School_of_Design) . [266] (#cite_note-270) In May 2018, West announced he was starting an architecture firm called Yeezy Home, which will act as an arm of his already successful Yeezy fashion label. [267] (#cite_note-271) In June 2018, the first Yeezy Home collaboration was announced by designer Jalil Peraza, teasing an affordable concrete prefabricated (/wiki/Prefabricated) home as part of a social housing (/wiki/Social_housing) project. [268] (#cite_note-272) [269] (#cite_note-273) In March 2015, it was announced that West is a co-owner, with various other music artists, in the music streaming (/wiki/Music_streaming) service Tidal (/wiki/Tidal_(service)) . The service specialises in lossless (/wiki/Lossless_compression) audio and high definition music videos. Jay-Z acquired the parent company of Tidal, Aspiro (/wiki/Aspiro) , in the first quarter of 2015. [270] (#cite_note-274) Sixteen artist stakeholders including Jay-Z, Rihanna, Beyoncé, Madonna, Chris Martin (/wiki/Chris_Martin) , Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) co-own Tidal, with the majority owning a 3% equity stake. [271] (#cite_note-275) In October 2022, in direct response to bans he received on Twitter and Instagram stemming from his antisemitic comments, [272] (#cite_note-276) West reached an agreement in principle (/wiki/Agreement_in_principle) to acquire the alt-tech (/wiki/Alt-tech) social network Parler (/wiki/Parler) for an undisclosed amount. [273] (#cite_note-277) [274] (#cite_note-278) Parler and West mutually agreed to terminate the proposed deal in mid-November. [275] (#cite_note-279) Philanthropy West, alongside his mother, founded the Kanye West Foundation in Chicago in 2003, tasked with a mission to battle dropout and illiteracy rates, while partnering with community organizations to provide underprivileged youth access to music education. [276] (#cite_note-Mission_Statement-280) In 2007, West and the Foundation partnered with Strong American Schools (/wiki/Strong_American_Schools) as part of their "Ed in '08" campaign. [277] (#cite_note-281) [278] (#cite_note-282) As spokesman for the campaign, West appeared in a series of PSAs for the organization, and hosted an inaugural benefit concert in August of that year. [279] (#cite_note-283) In 2008, following the death of West's mother, the foundation was rechristened The Dr. Donda West Foundation. [276] (#cite_note-Mission_Statement-280) [280] (#cite_note-284) The foundation ceased operations in 2011. [281] (#cite_note-285) In 2013, Kanye West and friend Rhymefest (/wiki/Rhymefest) founded Donda's House, Inc., a program aimed at helping at-risk Chicago youth. [282] (#cite_note-286) West has contributed to hurricane relief in 2005 by participating in a Hurricane Katrina (/wiki/Hurricane_Katrina) benefit concert after the storm had ravaged black communities in New Orleans (/wiki/New_Orleans) [283] (#cite_note-287) and in 2012 when he performed at a Hurricane Sandy benefit concert (/wiki/12-12-12:_The_Concert_for_Sandy_Relief) . [284] (#cite_note-288) In January 2019, West donated $10 million towards the completion of the Roden Crater (/wiki/Roden_Crater) by American artist James Turrell (/wiki/James_Turrell) . [285] (#cite_note-289) In June 2020, in the wake of the murder of George Floyd (/wiki/Murder_of_George_Floyd) and the following protests (/wiki/George_Floyd_protests) , he donated $2 million between the family of Floyd and other victims of police brutality (/wiki/Police_brutality) , Ahmaud Arbery (/wiki/Murder_of_Ahmaud_Arbery) and Breonna Taylor (/wiki/Shooting_of_Breonna_Taylor) . The donation funded legal fees for Arbery and Taylor's families, as well as establishing a 529 plan (/wiki/529_plan) to fully cover college tuition (/wiki/College_tuition) for Floyd's daughter. [286] (#cite_note-290) Acting and filmmaking West made cameo appearances (/wiki/Cameo_appearances) as himself in the films State Property 2 (/wiki/State_Property_2) (2005) and The Love Guru (/wiki/The_Love_Guru) (2008), [287] (#cite_note-291) [288] (#cite_note-MTV_Comedy_Lover-292) and in an episode of the television show Entourage (/wiki/Entourage_(U.S._TV_series)) in 2007. [289] (#cite_note-293) West provided the voice for "Kenny West", a rapper, in the animated sitcom The Cleveland Show (/wiki/The_Cleveland_Show) . [288] (#cite_note-MTV_Comedy_Lover-292) In 2009, he starred in the Spike Jonze (/wiki/Spike_Jonze) -directed short film We Were Once a Fairytale (/wiki/We_Were_Once_a_Fairytale) (2009), playing himself acting belligerently while drunk in a nightclub. [290] (#cite_note-294) West wrote, directed, and starred in the musical short film Runaway (/wiki/Runaway_(2010_film)) (2010), which heavily features music from My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy . [98] (#cite_note-BillboardPremiere-101) The film depicts a relationship between a man, played by West, and a half-woman, half- phoenix (/wiki/Phoenix_(mythology)) creature. [291] (#cite_note-vulture-295) In 2012, West co-directed another short film, along with Alexandre Moors (/wiki/Alexandre_Moors) , [292] (#cite_note-296) titled Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(film)) , which premiered at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/2012_Cannes_Film_Festival) in a custom pyramid-shaped screening pavilion featuring seven screens constructed for the film. The film was meant to tie in with the compilation album of the same name (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) to be released later that year. [293] (#cite_note-297) West made a cameo appearance in the comedy Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues (/wiki/Anchorman_2:_The_Legend_Continues) (2013) as a MTV News (/wiki/MTV_News) representative in the film's fight scene. [294] (#cite_note-298) In September 2018, West announced the starting of a film production company named Half Beast, LLC. [295] (#cite_note-299) A documentary shot over 21 years featuring footage of West's early days in Chicago through the death of his mother to his presidential run was announced to debut in 2021. Titled Jeen-Yuhs (/wiki/Jeen-Yuhs) , it was acquired by Netflix (/wiki/Netflix) for $30 million [296] (#cite_note-300) and released in 2022. [297] (#cite_note-301) Presidential campaigns Main article: Kanye West U.S. presidential campaigns (/wiki/Kanye_West_U.S._presidential_campaigns) 2020 West at his first campaign rally in North Charleston, South Carolina (/wiki/North_Charleston,_South_Carolina) , on July 19, 2020 On July 4, 2020, West announced on Twitter that he would be running in the 2020 presidential election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) . [298] (#cite_note-302) [299] (#cite_note-303) On July 7, West was interviewed by Forbes about his presidential run, where he announced that his running mate would be Wyoming preacher Michelle Tidball, and that he would run as an independent (/wiki/Independent_politician) under the "Birthday Party", explaining his decision of why he chose the name, saying, "Because when we win, it's everybody's 'birthday'." [300] (#cite_note-304) West also said he no longer supported Trump because he "hid in [a] bunker" during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) . [301] (#cite_note-France-305) Continuing, he said, "You know? Obama's special. Trump's special. We say Kanye West is special. America needs special people that lead. Bill Clinton (/wiki/Bill_Clinton) ? Special. Joe Biden (/wiki/Joe_Biden) 's not special." [301] (#cite_note-France-305) Various political pundits speculated that West's presidential run was a publicity stunt to promote his latest music releases. [302] (#cite_note-306) [ better source needed ] On July 15, 2020, official paperwork was filed with the Federal Election Commission (/wiki/Federal_Election_Commission) for West, under the "BDY" Party affiliation [303] (#cite_note-307) amid claims that he was preparing to drop out. [304] (#cite_note-308) West held his first rally that weekend, on July 19. [305] (#cite_note-309) West aligned himself with the philosophy of a consistent life ethic (/wiki/Consistent_life_ethic) , a tenet of Christian democracy (/wiki/Christian_democracy) . [306] (#cite_note-PCR2020-310) His platform advocated for the creation of a culture of life (/wiki/Culture_of_life) , endorsing environmental stewardship (/wiki/Stewardship_(theology)) , supporting the arts, buttressing faith-based organizations (/wiki/Faith-based_organization) , restoring school prayer (/wiki/School_prayer) , providing for a strong national defense, and "America First" diplomacy (/wiki/America_First_(policy)) . [307] (#cite_note-Kornhaber2020-311) In July 2020, West told Forbes that he is ignorant on issues such as taxes and foreign policy. [308] (#cite_note-312) West conceded on Twitter on November 4, 2020. [309] (#cite_note-313) [310] (#cite_note-314) He received 66,365 votes in the 12 states he had ballot access in, receiving an average of 0.32%. Reported write-in votes gave West an additional 3,931 votes across 5 states. In addition, the Roque De La Fuente (/wiki/Roque_De_La_Fuente) / Kanye West ticket won 60,160 votes in California (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election_in_California) (0.34%). [311] (#cite_note-315) According to Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) , on January 4, 2021, a Kanye West-linked publicist pressured a Georgia election worker to confess to bogus charges of election tampering to assist Trump's claims of election interference (/wiki/Attempts_to_overturn_the_2020_United_States_presidential_election) . [312] (#cite_note-316) [313] (#cite_note-317) [314] (#cite_note-318) In December 2021, The Daily Beast (/wiki/The_Daily_Beast) reported that West's presidential campaign received millions of dollars in services from a secret network of Republican operatives, payments to which the committee did not report. According to campaign finance experts, this was done to conceal a connection. [315] (#cite_note-319) [316] (#cite_note-320) 2024 West stated his intention to run for president again in the 2024 presidential election (/wiki/2024_United_States_presidential_election) , saying at a November 2019 event, "When I run for president in 2024, we would've created so many jobs that I'm not going to run, I'm going to walk." He was met with laughter from the audience. [317] (#cite_note-321) In response to a request for additional information from the Federal Election Commission (/wiki/Federal_Election_Commission) regarding the creation of a presidential exploratory committee (/wiki/Presidential_exploratory_committee) , West's representatives emphasized that he "has not decided whether to become a candidate for president in the 2024 election" and refused to file additional paperwork with the commission. [318] (#cite_note-322) West officially launched his presidential campaign in November 2022. [319] (#cite_note-323) West claimed to have asked former president Donald Trump to be his running mate; according to West, Trump was "caught [...] off-guard" by the request and warned him of losing if he decided to run. [320] (#cite_note-324) [321] (#cite_note-325) In October 2023, an attorney for West said that he "is not a candidate for office in 2024". [322] (#cite_note-326) Views Main article: Views of Kanye West (/wiki/Views_of_Kanye_West) Wikinews has related news: Rapper Kanye West denounces Bush response, American media at hurricane relief telethon (https://en.wikinews.org/wiki/Rapper_Kanye_West_denounces_Bush_response,_American_media_at_hurricane_relief_telethon) West has been an outspoken and controversial celebrity throughout his career, receiving criticism from the mainstream media, industry colleagues and entertainers, and three U.S. presidents. [2] (#cite_note-amg-4) [106] (#cite_note-NewYorkTimes-109) In a 2005 speech, West criticized both the media and the government's racial disparities in their response to Hurricane Katrina (/wiki/Hurricane_Katrina) , stating on live television that " George Bush (/wiki/George_W._Bush) doesn't care about black people". [323] (#cite_note-327) He apologized for the comment in 2010, saying he "didn't have the grounds to call [Bush] a racist" and later stated in regard to the remark that he "was programmed to think from a victimized mentality". [324] (#cite_note-328) West has voiced his opposition to abortion (/wiki/Opposition_to_abortion) in 2013, citing his belief in the Sixth Commandment (/wiki/Thou_shalt_not_kill) , [325] (#cite_note-329) and in 2022 deemed abortion "genocide and population control" of black people. [326] (#cite_note-330) He has stated that the 400-year enslavement of Africans (/wiki/Slavery_in_the_United_States) "sounds like a choice", [327] (#cite_note-331) before elaborating that his comment was in reference to mental enslavement and argued for free thought (/wiki/Free_thought) . [328] (#cite_note-332) He later apologized for the comment. [329] (#cite_note-333) In late 2022, West made a series of antisemitic (/wiki/Antisemitic) statements, [330] (#cite_note-cnbc-334) resulting in the termination of his collaborations, sponsorships, and partnerships with Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Universal Music Group (/wiki/Universal_Music_Group) , CAA (/wiki/Creative_Artists_Agency) , Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , Gap (/wiki/Gap_Inc.) , and Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) . [331] (#cite_note-335) [332] (#cite_note-336) West was widely condemned after appearing at a dinner hosted by Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) at Mar-a-Lago (/wiki/Mar-a-Lago) beside Nick Fuentes (/wiki/Nick_Fuentes) , a white nationalist (/wiki/White_nationalist) . [330] (#cite_note-cnbc-334) In a subsequent December appearance on Alex Jones (/wiki/Alex_Jones) 's InfoWars (/wiki/InfoWars) , West praised Adolf Hitler (/wiki/Adolf_Hitler) , denied the Holocaust (/wiki/Denied_the_Holocaust) , [333] (#cite_note-337) and identified as a Nazi (/wiki/Nazi) . [334] (#cite_note-timesofisraelnazi-338) [335] (#cite_note-vanityfairnazi-339) Following the interview, West's Twitter account was terminated after he posted an image depicting a swastika (/wiki/Swastika) entangled within a Star of David (/wiki/Star_of_David) . [336] (#cite_note-340) [337] (#cite_note-341) In July 2023, Twitter reversed the ban, citing assurances from West not to post harmful content in the future. [338] (#cite_note-Busby_2023_c026-342) [339] (#cite_note-Al_Jazeera_2023_n578-343) According to a 2023 report published by the Anti-Defamation League (/wiki/Anti-Defamation_League) , West's antisemitic rhetoric has caused several instances of hate-speech vandalism, harassment, and violence across the United States. [340] (#cite_note-344) In December 2023, weeks ahead of the slated release of his upcoming album, West apologized for his antisemitic remarks in a written statement on Instagram. [341] (#cite_note-345) [342] (#cite_note-346) [343] (#cite_note-347) In an interview following the apology, he stated that "some of the stuff I was saying was true" [344] (#cite_note-348) and claimed that Black people can not be antisemitic because "we are Jew." [345] (#cite_note-349) Personal life West has been one of the wealthiest musical artists (/wiki/List_of_music_artists_by_net_worth) ; his net worth was as high as $1.8 billion in 2021. [346] (#cite_note-350) In October 2022, Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) estimated his net worth to have dropped to $400 million in large part due to Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) 's termination of their partnership following a series of public antisemitic statements. [347] (#cite_note-Voytko-351) In August 2021, West applied to have his legal name changed from "Kanye Omari West" to "Ye", with no middle or last name (/wiki/Mononym) ; [348] (#cite_note-352) he cited "personal reasons" for the change. [349] (#cite_note-NameChangeUSAToday-353) The request was granted in October. [350] (#cite_note-NameChangeIndy-354) West had alluded to wishing to change his name since 2018 and had used Ye as a nickname for several years prior, [349] (#cite_note-NameChangeUSAToday-353) stating in a 2018 interview that he believed " ye (/wiki/Ye_(pronoun)) " ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) j iː / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ) was the most commonly used word in the Bible: [e] (#cite_note-356) "In the Bible it means 'you'. So, I'm you. I'm us. It's us. It went from being Kanye (/wiki/Kanye_(name)) , which means the only one, to just Ye." [350] (#cite_note-NameChangeIndy-354) Relationships and family Kim Kardashian In April 2012, West began dating reality television star Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) , with whom he had already been long-time friends. [352] (#cite_note-357) [353] (#cite_note-358) West and Kardashian became engaged in October 2013, [354] (#cite_note-359) [355] (#cite_note-360) and married at Fort di Belvedere (/wiki/Belvedere_(fort)) in Florence (/wiki/Florence) in May 2014. [356] (#cite_note-361) Their private ceremony was subject to widespread mainstream coverage, with which West took issue. [357] (#cite_note-362) The couple's high-profile status and respective careers have resulted in their relationship becoming subject to heavy media coverage; The New York Times referred to their marriage as "a historic blizzard of celebrity". [358] (#cite_note-363) West and Kardashian have four children: North West (/wiki/North_West_(musician)) (born June 2013), [359] (#cite_note-364) [360] (#cite_note-365) Saint West (born December 2015), [361] (#cite_note-366) Chicago West (born via surrogate (/wiki/Surrogate_pregnancy) in January 2018), [362] (#cite_note-367) [363] (#cite_note-368) and Psalm West (born via surrogate in May 2019). [364] (#cite_note-369) [365] (#cite_note-370) In July 2020, during a presidential campaign rally of his, West revealed that he had previously considered abortion during Kardashian's first pregnancy but has since taken anti-abortion views. [366] (#cite_note-Henderson-371) In April 2015, West and Kardashian traveled to Jerusalem (/wiki/Jerusalem) to have North baptized in the Armenian Apostolic Church (/wiki/Armenian_Apostolic_Church) at the Cathedral of St. James (/wiki/Cathedral_of_St._James,_Jerusalem) . [367] (#cite_note-372) [368] (#cite_note-373) In September 2018, West announced that he would be permanently moving back to Chicago to establish his Yeezy company headquarters there. [369] (#cite_note-374) [370] (#cite_note-375) This did not actually occur, and West instead went on to purchase two ranches near Cody, Wyoming (/wiki/Cody,_Wyoming) , where he recorded his eighth solo studio album, Ye . Kardashian resides with their children in a home that the now-divorced couple owns in California, [371] (#cite_note-Melas-376) whereas West moved into a home across the street to continue to be near their children. [372] (#cite_note-377) In October 2021, West began the process of selling his Wyoming ranch. [373] (#cite_note-378) In July 2020, West acknowledged the possibility of Kardashian ending their marriage due to his adoption of anti-abortion views. Later that month, West wrote on Twitter that he had been attempting to divorce Kardashian. He also wrote that the Kardashian family (/wiki/Kardashian_family) was attempting "to lock [him] up". [366] (#cite_note-Henderson-371) In January 2021, CNN (/wiki/CNN) reported that the couple were discussing divorce. [371] (#cite_note-Melas-376) A month later, Kardashian filed for divorce, [374] (#cite_note-379) with the couple citing "irreconcilable differences", agreeing to joint custody of their children, and declining spousal support from each other. [375] (#cite_note-380) The divorce settlement was finalized in November 2022, and West was ordered to pay $200,000 in monthly child support and be responsible for half of the children's medical, educational, and security expenses. [376] (#cite_note-finalized-381) Other relationships West began an on-and-off relationship (/wiki/On-again,_off-again_relationship) with the designer Alexis Phifer in 2002, and they became engaged in August 2006. They ended their 18-month engagement in 2008. [377] (#cite_note-382) Phifer stated that the pair had split amicably and remained friends. [378] (#cite_note-383) West dated model Amber Rose (/wiki/Amber_Rose) from 2008 until mid-2010. [379] (#cite_note-384) In an interview following their split, West stated that he had to take "30 showers" before committing to his next relationship with Kim Kardashian. [380] (#cite_note-385) In response, Rose stated that she had been " bullied (/wiki/Bullying) " and " slut-shamed (/wiki/Slut-shaming) " by West throughout their relationship. [381] (#cite_note-386) In January 2022, actress Julia Fox (/wiki/Julia_Fox) confirmed in an Interview (/wiki/Interview_(magazine)) essay that she was dating West. [382] (#cite_note-387) West continued to say that he wanted his "family back" and publicly lashed out at Kardashian's new boyfriend, comedian Pete Davidson (/wiki/Pete_Davidson) . [383] (#cite_note-388) His treatment of Davidson and Kardashian has been described by commentators as harassment and abusive; the 64th Annual Grammy Awards (/wiki/64th_Annual_Grammy_Awards) dropped him as a performer in response to his "concerning online behavior". [384] (#cite_note-389) [385] (#cite_note-390) [386] (#cite_note-391) Less than two months after confirming their relationship, Fox said that she and West had split up but remained on good terms. [387] (#cite_note-392) She later said that she dated West purely to "give people something to talk about" during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) [388] (#cite_note-393) and to "get him off Kim's case". [389] (#cite_note-394) In January 2023, it was reported that West had informally married Australian architect Bianca Censori (/wiki/Bianca_Censori) , who works for West's Yeezy brand, in a private ceremony in Beverly Hills. [390] (#cite_note-395) [391] (#cite_note-396) The ceremony had no legal standing; the couple did not file for a marriage license. [392] (#cite_note-397) In response to West's subsequent trips to Australia to visit Censori's family, Australian Minister for Education Jason Clare (/wiki/Jason_Clare) commented that West may be denied a visa (/wiki/Travel_visa) due to his recent antisemitic remarks. The Executive Council of Australian Jewry (/wiki/Executive_Council_of_Australian_Jewry) [393] (#cite_note-398) and the Anti-Defamation Commission (/wiki/Anti-Defamation_Commission) further argued against granting West entry. [394] (#cite_note-399) Legal problems In December 2006, Robert "Evel" Knievel (/wiki/Evel_Knievel) sued the rapper for trademark infringement of his name and likeness in West's video for " Touch the Sky (/wiki/Touch_the_Sky_(Kanye_West_song)) ". Knievel took issue with the "vulgar and offensive" and "sexually charged video" in which West takes on the persona of "Evel Kanyevel" that Knievel claimed damaged his reputation. The suit sought monetary damages and an injunction to stop distribution of the video. [395] (#cite_note-400) West's attorneys argued that the music video amounted to satire and therefore was covered under the First Amendment (/wiki/First_Amendment_to_the_United_States_Constitution) . Days before his death in November 2007, Knievel amicably settled the suit after being paid a visit by West, saying, "I thought he was a wonderful guy and quite a gentleman." [396] (#cite_note-401) In 2014, after an altercation with a paparazzo at the Los Angeles Airport (/wiki/Los_Angeles_International_Airport) , West was sentenced to serve two years' probation for a misdemeanor battery conviction, and was required to attend 24 anger management sessions, perform 250 hours of community service, and pay restitution to the photographer. [397] (#cite_note-402) A separate civil lawsuit brought by the paparazzo was settled in 2015, a week before it was due for trial. [398] (#cite_note-403) According to TMZ (/wiki/TMZ) , an appeal to have West's conviction expunged (/wiki/Expunged) from his criminal record was granted by a judge in 2016. [399] (#cite_note-404) [400] (#cite_note-405) West was sued for wrongful termination, sexual harassment, and breach of contract by a former assistant in 2024. [401] (#cite_note-406) West denied the allegation. [402] (#cite_note-407) Religious beliefs After the success of his song " Jesus Walks (/wiki/Jesus_Walks) " from the album The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) , West was questioned on his beliefs and said, "I will say that I'm spiritual. I have accepted Jesus as my Savior. And I will say that I fall short every day." [403] (#cite_note-408) In a 2008 interview with The Fader (/wiki/The_Fader) , West stated that "I'm like a vessel, and God has chosen me to be the voice and the connector". [404] (#cite_note-vulturejesus-409) In a 2009 interview with online magazine Bossip (/wiki/Bossip) , West stated that he believed in God, but at the time felt that he "would never go into a religion". [405] (#cite_note-bossip-410) In 2014, West referred to himself as a Christian (/wiki/Christianity) during one of his concerts. [406] (#cite_note-411) Kim Kardashian stated in September 2019: "He has had an amazing evolution of being born again (/wiki/Born_again) and being saved by Christ." [407] (#cite_note-Conner2019-412) In October 2019, West said with respect to his past, "When I was trying to serve multiple gods it drove me crazy" in reference to the "god of ego, god of money, god of pride, the god of fame", [408] (#cite_note-Gibson2019-413) and that "I didn't even know what it meant to be saved" and that now "I love Jesus Christ. I love Christianity." [8] (#cite_note-Schaffstall-10) Politics See also: Views of Kanye West (/wiki/Views_of_Kanye_West) In September 2012, West donated $1,000 to Barack Obama (/wiki/Barack_Obama) 's re-election campaign (/wiki/Barack_Obama_2012_presidential_campaign) , and in August 2015 he donated $2,700 to Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) 's 2016 campaign (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton_2016_presidential_campaign) . He also donated $15,000 to the Democratic National Committee (/wiki/Democratic_National_Committee) in October 2014. [409] (#cite_note-414) [410] (#cite_note-415) In December 2016, West met with President-elect (/wiki/President-elect_of_the_United_States) Donald Trump to discuss bullying, supporting teachers, modernizing curriculums, and violence in Chicago (/wiki/Gun_violence_in_Chicago) . [411] (#cite_note-416) [412] (#cite_note-417) West subsequently stated he would have voted for Trump had he voted. [413] (#cite_note-418) In February 2017, however, West deleted all his tweets about Trump in purported dislike of the new president's policies, particularly the travel ban (/wiki/Executive_Order_13769) . [414] (#cite_note-419) West reiterated his support for Donald Trump in April 2018. [415] (#cite_note-420) In October 2018, West donated to progressive (/wiki/Progressivism_in_the_United_States) Chicago mayoral candidate Amara Enyial (/wiki/Amara_Enyia) . [416] (#cite_note-421) On 29 June 2024, he arrived in Moscow (/wiki/Moscow) , Russia to celebrate the 40th birthday of Russian fashion designer Gosha Rubchinskiy (/wiki/Gosha_Rubchinskiy) . [417] (#cite_note-422) West was labeled an "enemy of Ukraine" after his trip to Moscow. [418] (#cite_note-423) Mental health On November 19, 2016, West abruptly ended a concert [419] (#cite_note-424) before being committed at the recommendation of authorities to the UCLA Medical Center (/wiki/UCLA_Medical_Center) with hallucinations and paranoia. [420] (#cite_note-425) While the episode was first described as one of "temporary psychosis" caused by dehydration and sleep deprivation, West's mental state was abnormal enough for his 21 cancelled concerts to be covered by his insurance policy. [421] (#cite_note-426) He was reportedly paranoid and depressed throughout the hospitalization, [422] (#cite_note-427) but remained formally undiagnosed. [423] (#cite_note-428) Some have speculated that the Paris robbery of his wife may have triggered the paranoia. [424] (#cite_note-429) On November 30, West was released from the hospital. [425] (#cite_note-430) In his song "FML" and his featured verse on Vic Mensa (/wiki/Vic_Mensa) 's song "U Mad", he refers to using the antidepressant medication Lexapro (/wiki/Lexapro) , and in his unreleased song "I Feel Like That", he mentions feeling many common symptoms of depression and anxiety. [426] (#cite_note-431) In a 2018 interview, West said that he had become addicted to opioids (/wiki/Opioid) when they were prescribed to him after liposuction (/wiki/Liposuction) . The addiction may have contributed to his nervous breakdown in 2016. [427] (#cite_note-432) In addition to his opioid addiction, [428] (#cite_note-433) West has stated that he has had addictions to alcohol, [429] (#cite_note-434) sex, [430] (#cite_note-435) and pornography. [431] (#cite_note-436) [432] (#cite_note-437) West said that he often has suicidal ideation (/wiki/Suicidal_ideation) . [433] (#cite_note-438) West was diagnosed with bipolar disorder (/wiki/Bipolar_disorder) in 2016, [434] (#cite_note-439) though his diagnosis was not made public until his 2018 album Ye. [435] (#cite_note-440) He told President Donald Trump (/wiki/President_Donald_J_Trump) that it was a misdiagnosis (/wiki/Medical_error) . [436] (#cite_note-441) He had reportedly accepted the diagnosis again by 2019, [437] (#cite_note-442) [438] (#cite_note-443) but again suggested that it had been a misdiagnosis in 2022. [439] (#cite_note-444) In December 2022, he suggested that he may be autistic (/wiki/Autism_spectrum) . [440] (#cite_note-445) Musical impact West is among the most critically acclaimed popular music artists of the 21st century, earning praise from music critics, industry peers, and cultural figures. [441] (#cite_note-The_Perfectionism_of_Kanye_West-446) [442] (#cite_note-The_enigma_of_Kanye_West—and_how_the_world's_biggest_pop_star_ended_up_being_its_most_reviled,_too-447) In 2014, NME (/wiki/NME) named him the third most influential artist in music. [443] (#cite_note-:1-448) Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) senior editor Alex Gale declared West "absolutely one of the best, and you could make the argument for the best artist of the 21st century." [218] (#cite_note-Ryan-222) Sharing similar sentiments, Dave Bry of Complex Magazine (/wiki/Complex_Magazine) called West the twenty-first century's "most important artist of any art form, of any genre." [444] (#cite_note-complex-449) The Atlantic (/wiki/The_Atlantic) writer David Samuels (/wiki/David_Samuels_(writer)) commented, "Kanye's power resides in his wild creativity and expressiveness, his mastery of form, and his deep and uncompromising attachment to a self-made aesthetic that he expresses through means that are entirely of the moment: rap music, digital downloads (/wiki/Music_download) , fashion, Twitter, blogs, live streaming (/wiki/Live_streaming) video." [445] (#cite_note-theatlantic-450) Joe Muggs of The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) argued that "there is nobody else who can sell as many records as West does [...] while remaining so resolutely experimental and capable of stirring things up culturally and politically." [446] (#cite_note-451) Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) credited West with transforming hip-hop's mainstream, "establishing a style of introspective yet glossy rap" while deeming him "a producer who created a signature sound and then abandoned it to his imitators, a flashy, free-spending sybarite with insightful things to say about college, culture, and economics, an egomaniac with more than enough artistic firepower to back it up." [447] (#cite_note-RSguide-452) Writing for Highsnobiety (/wiki/Highsnobiety) , Shahzaib Hussain stated that West's first three albums "cemented his role as a progressive rap (/wiki/Progressive_rap) progenitor". [448] (#cite_note-453) AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic) editor Jason Birchmeier described West as "[shattering] certain stereotypes about rappers, becoming a superstar on his own terms without adapting his appearance, his rhetoric, or his music to fit any one musical mold". [2] (#cite_note-amg-4) Lawrence Burney of Noisey (/wiki/Noisey) has credited West with the commercial decline of the gangsta rap (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) genre that once dominated mainstream hip-hop. [449] (#cite_note-Burney-454) The release of his third studio album (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) has been described as a turning point in the music industry, [450] (#cite_note-455) and is considered to have helped pave the way for new rappers who did not follow the hardcore (/wiki/Hardcore_hip_hop) - gangster (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) mold to find wider mainstream acceptance. [451] (#cite_note-Lamarre-456) [452] (#cite_note-457) [453] (#cite_note-Theisen,_Adam-458) Hip-hop artists like Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) , [454] (#cite_note-459) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) , [455] (#cite_note-460) Travis Scott (/wiki/Travis_Scott) , [456] (#cite_note-461) Lil Uzi Vert (/wiki/Lil_Uzi_Vert) , [457] (#cite_note-462) and Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) [458] (#cite_note-463) have acknowledged being influenced by West. Several other artists and music groups of various genres have named West as an influence on their work. [f] (#cite_note-481) Awards and achievements Main article: List of awards and nominations received by Kanye West (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Kanye_West) West is the fourth- highest certified artist in the U.S. (/wiki/List_of_highest-certified_music_artists_in_the_United_States#Top_50_certified_music_artists_(digital_singles)) by digital singles (69 million). [476] (#cite_note-Top_Artists_(Digital_Singles)-482) He had the most RIAA (/wiki/Recording_Industry_Association_of_America) digital song certifications by a male artist in the 2000s (19), [477] (#cite_note-RIAA_Tallies_The_Decade's_Top_Gold_&_Platinum_Award_Winners-483) and was the fourth best-selling digital songs artist of the 2000s in the U.S. [478] (#cite_note-484) In Spotify (/wiki/Spotify) 's first ten years from 2008 to 2018, West was the sixth most streamed artist, and the fourth fastest artist to reach one billion streams. [479] (#cite_note-485) West has the joint-most consecutive studio album to debut at number one on the Billboard 200 (/wiki/Billboard_200) (9). [480] (#cite_note-486) He ranked third on Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) ' s 2000s decade-end list of top producers [481] (#cite_note-487) and has topped the annual Pazz & Jop (/wiki/Pazz_%26_Jop) critics' poll the joint-most times (four albums) with Bob Dylan (/wiki/Bob_Dylan) . [482] (#cite_note-488) West has been nominated for 75 Grammys (/wiki/Grammys) , out of which he has won 24. [483] (#cite_note-489) He has been the most nominated act at five ceremonies, [484] (#cite_note-490) and has received the fourth-most wins overall in the 2000s. [485] (#cite_note-491) In 2008, West became the first solo artist to have his first three albums receive nominations for Album of the Year (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Album_of_the_Year) . [486] (#cite_note-492) West has won a Webby Award (/wiki/Webby_Award) for Artist of the Year, [487] (#cite_note-493) an Accessories Council Excellence Award for being a stylemaker, [488] (#cite_note-494) International Man of the Year at the GQ (/wiki/GQ) Awards , [489] (#cite_note-495) a Clio Award (/wiki/Clio_Awards) for The Life of Pablo Album Experience, [490] (#cite_note-496) and an honour by The Recording Academy (/wiki/The_Recording_Academy) . [491] (#cite_note-497) West is one of eight acts to have won the Billboard Artist Achievement Award (/wiki/Billboard_Music_Award#Artist_Achievement_Award) . [492] (#cite_note-498) In 2015, he became the third rap act to win the Michael Jackson Video Vanguard Award (/wiki/Michael_Jackson_Video_Vanguard_Award) . [10] (#cite_note-:2-12) West's first six solo studio albums were included on Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) ' s 2020 list of the 500 Greatest Albums of All Time (/wiki/Rolling_Stone%27s_500_Greatest_Albums_of_All_Time) . [493] (#cite_note-Rolling_Stone:_500_Greatest_Albums_of_All_Time:_2020_edition-499) Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) named The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) the best album of the 2000s, [494] (#cite_note-500) Complex (/wiki/Complex_Magazine) named Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) the best album released between 2002 and 2012, [495] (#cite_note-501) 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) was named by Rolling Stone as one of the 40 most groundbreaking albums of all time, [496] (#cite_note-502) The A.V. Club (/wiki/The_A.V._Club) named My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) the best album of the 2010s, [497] (#cite_note-503) Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) was the most critically acclaimed album of 2013 according to Metacritic (/wiki/Metacritic) , [498] (#cite_note-504) and The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) was the first album to top the Billboard 200, go platinum in the U.S., and go gold in the UK, via streaming alone. [499] (#cite_note-505) [500] (#cite_note-506) Discography Main articles: Kanye West albums discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_albums_discography) , Kanye West singles discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_singles_discography) , List of songs recorded by Kanye West (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_Kanye_West) , and Kanye West production discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_production_discography) Studio albums The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) (2004) Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) (2005) Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) (2007) 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) (2008) My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) (2010) Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) (2013) The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) (2016) Ye (/wiki/Ye_(album)) (2018) Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) (2019) Donda (/wiki/Donda) (2021) Collaborative albums Watch the Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) (2011) (with Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) ) Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(album)) (2018) (with Kid Cudi (/wiki/Kid_Cudi) , as Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts) ) Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) (2024) (with Ty Dolla Sign (/wiki/Ty_Dolla_Sign) , as ¥$) Vultures 2 (/wiki/Vultures_2) (2024) (with Ty Dolla Sign (/wiki/Ty_Dolla_Sign) , as ¥$) Compilation albums Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) (2012) (with GOOD Music (/wiki/GOOD_Music) ) Demo albums Donda 2 (/wiki/Donda_2) (2022) Videography Main article: Kanye West videography (/wiki/Kanye_West_videography) The College Dropout Video Anthology (/wiki/The_College_Dropout_Video_Anthology) (2004) Late Orchestration (/wiki/Late_Orchestration) (2006) VH1 Storytellers (/wiki/VH1_Storytellers_(Kanye_West_album)) (2010) Runaway (/wiki/Runaway_(2010_film)) (2010) Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King_(film)) (2019) Jeen-Yuhs (/wiki/Jeen-Yuhs) (2022) Tours Main article: List of Kanye West live performances (/wiki/List_of_Kanye_West_live_performances) Headlining tours School Spirit Tour (2004) Touch the Sky Tour (/wiki/Touch_the_Sky_Tour) (2005–2006) Glow in the Dark Tour (/wiki/Glow_in_the_Dark_Tour) (2008) Watch the Throne Tour (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne_Tour) (with Jay-Z) (2011–2012) The Yeezus Tour (/wiki/The_Yeezus_Tour) (2013–2014) Saint Pablo Tour (/wiki/Saint_Pablo_Tour) (2016) Supporting tours Truth Tour (/wiki/Truth_Tour) (with Usher (/wiki/Usher_(musician)) ) (2004) Vertigo Tour (/wiki/Vertigo_Tour) (with U2 (/wiki/U2) ) (2005–2006) A Bigger Bang (/wiki/A_Bigger_Bang_(concert_tour)) (with The Rolling Stones (/wiki/The_Rolling_Stones) ) (2006) Books Raising Kanye: Life Lessons from the Mother of a Hip-Hop Superstar (2007) Thank You and You're Welcome (2009) Through the Wire: Lyrics & Illuminations (2009) Glow in the Dark (/wiki/Glow_in_the_Dark_(book)) (2009) See also Album era (/wiki/Album_era) Black conservatism in the United States (/wiki/Black_conservatism_in_the_United_States) List of people with bipolar disorder (/wiki/List_of_people_with_bipolar_disorder) List of Christian hip hop artists (/wiki/List_of_Christian_hip_hop_artists) Notes ^ Jump up to: a b Ye has been his legal name since late 2021 (see § Personal life (#Personal_life) ). ^ (#cite_ref-3) West and Censori were reported to have married in a private ceremony in December 2022, though without an official marriage license. Censori has since been referred to as West's wife by media publications, as well as West himself. [1] (#cite_note-2) ^ (#cite_ref-18) Most biographies and reference works state that West was born in Atlanta, although some sources give his birthplace as Douglasville (/wiki/Douglasville,_Georgia) , a small city west of Atlanta. [14] (#cite_note-16) [15] (#cite_note-17) ^ (#cite_ref-129) The school rescinded the honorary degree in late 2022 in light of West's public antisemitic statements. [125] (#cite_note-128) ^ (#cite_ref-356) In the King James Bible (/wiki/King_James_Version) , the most commonly used translation of the Christian Bible in the United States, the word that appears the most is not "ye", but rather "Lord" (not counting indefinite articles). [351] (#cite_note-355) ^ (#cite_ref-481) Musical artists and groups naming West as an influence: Casey Veggies (/wiki/Casey_Veggies) [459] (#cite_note-464) Adele (/wiki/Adele) [460] (#cite_note-465) Lily Allen (/wiki/Lily_Allen) [461] (#cite_note-466) Daniel Caesar (/wiki/Daniel_Caesar) [462] (#cite_note-Green-467) Lorde (/wiki/Lorde) [463] (#cite_note-468) Rosalía (/wiki/Rosal%C3%ADa_(singer)) [464] (#cite_note-469) Halsey (/wiki/Halsey_(singer)) [465] (#cite_note-470) Arctic Monkeys (/wiki/Arctic_Monkeys) [466] (#cite_note-471) Kasabian (/wiki/Kasabian) [467] (#cite_note-472) MGMT (/wiki/MGMT) [468] (#cite_note-473) Yeah Yeah Yeahs (/wiki/Yeah_Yeah_Yeahs) [469] (#cite_note-474) Fall Out Boy (/wiki/Fall_Out_Boy) [470] (#cite_note-475) James Blake (/wiki/James_Blake_(musician)) [471] (#cite_note-476) Daniel Lopatin (/wiki/Daniel_Lopatin) [472] (#cite_note-477) Tim Hecker (/wiki/Tim_Hecker) [473] (#cite_note-478) Rakim (/wiki/Rakim) [474] (#cite_note-479) John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) [475] (#cite_note-480) References ^ (#cite_ref-2) Ocho, Alex (February 12, 2024). "Kanye West Responds to Fans Commenting About Posting His Wife Three Times: 'Leave the King the F*ck Alone' (https://www.complex.com/music/a/alex-ocho/kanye-west-responds-to-fans-commenting-about-posting-wife) " (https://www.complex.com/music/a/alex-ocho/kanye-west-responds-to-fans-commenting-about-posting-wife) . Complex (/wiki/Complex_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240213041930/https://www.complex.com/music/a/alex-ocho/kanye-west-responds-to-fans-commenting-about-posting-wife) from the original on February 13, 2024 . Retrieved February 13, 2024 . 'I just wanted to tell everybody I posted my wife three times on purpose,' said Ye in a new video also shared on Monday from an airport. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Birchmeier, Jason (2007). "Kanye West—Biography" (https://www.allmusic.com/artist/p353484) . Allmusic. All Media Guide. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110217223433/http://www.allmusic.com/artist/p353484) from the original on February 17, 2011 . 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Retrieved June 7, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Instagram Restricts Kanye West's Account and Deletes Content for Violating Policies" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/business/digital/instagram-restricts-kanye-west-account-deletes-content-1235236269/) . The Hollywood Reporter . October 8, 2022. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20221009000722/https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/business/digital/instagram-restricts-kanye-west-account-deletes-content-1235236269/) from the original on October 9, 2022 . Retrieved October 9, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-Graham2019_9-0) Graham, Ruth (October 28, 2019). "Evangelicals Are Extremely Excited About Kanye's Jesus Is King" (https://slate.com/human-interest/2019/10/kanye-west-jesus-is-king-evangelical-biblical.html) . Slate (/wiki/Slate_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191029162030/https://slate.com/human-interest/2019/10/kanye-west-jesus-is-king-evangelical-biblical.html) from the original on October 29, 2019 . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210719130333/https://www.indy100.com/news/kanye-west-album-release-music-b1886485) from the original on July 19, 2021 . Retrieved July 19, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Grein, Paul (August 12, 2018). "Missy Elliott to Become First Female Rapper to Receive MTV's Video Vanguard Award" (https://www.billboard.com/articles/news/awards/8527170/missy-elliott-video-vanguard-first-female-rapper) . Billboard . Retrieved November 27, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Tyrangiel, Josh (April 18, 2005). "The 2005 TIME 100 – Kanye West" (http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1972656_1972696_1973215,00.html) . Time . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0040-781X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0040-781X) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20211030132152/http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1972656_1972696_1973215,00.html) from the original on October 30, 2021 . 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ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-61783-623-7 . Retrieved June 8, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Revolt TV (June 8, 2018). "A timeline of Kanye West's 41 years of excellence" (https://www.revolt.tv/2018/6/8/20819428/a-timeline-of-kanye-west-s-41-years-of-excellence) . Revolt . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200609022529/https://www.revolt.tv/2018/6/8/20819428/a-timeline-of-kanye-west-s-41-years-of-excellence) from the original on June 9, 2020 . Retrieved June 8, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Arney, Steve (March 8, 2006). "Kanye West Coming To Redbird" (https://www.pantagraph.com/news/article_79bc1031-1dc9-511b-8444-243951568e4b.html) . Pantagraph (/wiki/Pantagraph) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130428042047/http://www.pantagraph.com/news/article_79bc1031-1dc9-511b-8444-243951568e4b.html) from the original on April 28, 2013 . Retrieved April 26, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b Christian, Margena A. (May 14, 2007). 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Kanye West (https://x.com/kanyewest) on X (/wiki/X_(social_network)) Kanye West (https://www.allmusic.com/artist/p353484) at AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic_(identifier)) Kanye West (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1577190/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Kanye West (https://www.discogs.com/artist/137880) discography at Discogs (/wiki/Discogs) Appearances (https://www.c-span.org/person/?107046) on C-SPAN (/wiki/C-SPAN) Financial information (federal office) (https://www.fec.gov/data/candidate/P00016741) at the Federal Election Commission (/wiki/Federal_Election_Commission) v t e Kanye West Albums discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_albums_discography) Singles discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_singles_discography) Production discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_production_discography) Videography (/wiki/Kanye_West_videography) Songs (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_Kanye_West) Awards and nominations (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Kanye_West) Live performances (/wiki/List_of_Kanye_West_live_performances) Views (/wiki/Views_of_Kanye_West) Studio albums The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) Ye (/wiki/Ye_(album)) Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) Donda (/wiki/Donda) Donda 2 (/wiki/Donda_2) Collaborative albums Watch the Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) (with Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) ) Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(album)) (with Kid Cudi (/wiki/Kid_Cudi) as Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts) ) Jesus Is Born (/wiki/Jesus_Is_Born) (as the Sunday Service Choir (/wiki/Sunday_Service_Choir) ) Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) (with Ty Dolla Sign (/wiki/Ty_Dolla_Sign) as ¥$ (/wiki/%C2%A5$) ) Vultures 2 (/wiki/Vultures_2) (with Ty Dolla Sign as ¥$) Live albums Late Orchestration (/wiki/Late_Orchestration) VH1 Storytellers (/wiki/VH1_Storytellers_(Kanye_West_album)) Compilations Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) (with GOOD Music (/wiki/GOOD_Music) ) Mixtapes Can't Tell Me Nothing (/wiki/Can%27t_Tell_Me_Nothing_(mixtape)) DVDs The College Dropout Video Anthology (/wiki/The_College_Dropout_Video_Anthology) Late Orchestration (/wiki/Late_Orchestration) Films We Were Once a Fairytale (/wiki/We_Were_Once_a_Fairytale) Runaway (/wiki/Runaway_(2010_film)) Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(film)) Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King_(film)) Jeen-Yuhs (/wiki/Jeen-Yuhs) Tours Touch the Sky Tour (/wiki/Touch_the_Sky_Tour) Glow in the Dark Tour (/wiki/Glow_in_the_Dark_Tour) Fame Kills: Starring Kanye West and Lady Gaga (/wiki/Fame_Kills:_Starring_Kanye_West_and_Lady_Gaga) (cancelled) Watch the Throne Tour (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne_Tour) The Yeezus Tour (/wiki/The_Yeezus_Tour) Saint Pablo Tour (/wiki/Saint_Pablo_Tour) Books Glow in the Dark (/wiki/Glow_in_the_Dark_(book)) Fashion Nike Air Yeezy (/wiki/Nike_Air_Yeezy) Adidas Yeezy (/wiki/Adidas_Yeezy) Yeezy Gap (/wiki/Yeezy_Gap) Yeezy (brand) (/wiki/Yeezy_(brand)) Family Donda West (/wiki/Donda_West) (mother) Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) (ex-wife) Bianca Censori (/wiki/Bianca_Censori) (wife) Devo Harris (/wiki/Devo_Harris) (cousin) Tony Williams (/wiki/The_Wrldfms_Tony_Williams) (cousin) North West (/wiki/North_West_(musician)) (daughter) The Kardashians (/wiki/Kardashian_family) (children & ex-in-laws) Related articles Dropout Bear (/wiki/Dropout_Bear) GOOD Music (/wiki/GOOD_Music) GOOD Fridays (/wiki/GOOD_Fridays) Child Rebel Soldier (/wiki/Child_Rebel_Soldier) Donda (company) (/wiki/Donda_(company)) Donda Academy (/wiki/Donda_Academy) Presidential campaigns (/wiki/Kanye_West_presidential_campaigns) Stem Player (/wiki/Stem_Player) Drake–Kanye West feud (/wiki/Drake%E2%80%93Kanye_West_feud) Category (/wiki/Category:Kanye_West) v t e Kanye West songs Singles discography (/wiki/Kanye_West_singles_discography) Songs (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_Kanye_West) The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) " We Don't Care (/wiki/We_Don%27t_Care_(Kanye_West_song)) " " All Falls Down (/wiki/All_Falls_Down) " " Spaceship (/wiki/Spaceship_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Jesus Walks (/wiki/Jesus_Walks) " " Never Let Me Down (/wiki/Never_Let_Me_Down_(Kanye_West_song)) " " The New Workout Plan (/wiki/The_New_Workout_Plan) " " Slow Jamz (/wiki/Slow_Jamz) " " Two Words (/wiki/Two_Words) " " Through the Wire (/wiki/Through_the_Wire) " Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) " Heard 'Em Say (/wiki/Heard_%27Em_Say) " " Touch the Sky (/wiki/Touch_the_Sky_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Gold Digger (/wiki/Gold_Digger_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Drive Slow (/wiki/Drive_Slow) " " Diamonds from Sierra Leone (Remix) (/wiki/Diamonds_from_Sierra_Leone_(Remix)) " " Hey Mama (/wiki/Hey_Mama_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Gone (/wiki/Gone_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Diamonds from Sierra Leone (/wiki/Diamonds_from_Sierra_Leone) " Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) " Good Morning (/wiki/Good_Morning_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Champion (/wiki/Champion_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Stronger (/wiki/Stronger_(Kanye_West_song)) " " I Wonder (/wiki/I_Wonder_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Good Life (/wiki/Good_Life_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Can't Tell Me Nothing (/wiki/Can%27t_Tell_Me_Nothing) " " Flashing Lights (/wiki/Flashing_Lights_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Everything I Am (/wiki/Everything_I_Am_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Homecoming (/wiki/Homecoming_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Big Brother (/wiki/Big_Brother_(Kanye_West_song)) " 808s & Heartbreak (/wiki/808s_%26_Heartbreak) " Say You Will (/wiki/Say_You_Will_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Welcome to Heartbreak (/wiki/Welcome_to_Heartbreak) " " Heartless (/wiki/Heartless_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Amazing (/wiki/Amazing_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Love Lockdown (/wiki/Love_Lockdown) " " Paranoid (/wiki/Paranoid_(Kanye_West_song)) " " RoboCop (/wiki/RoboCop_(song)) " " Street Lights (/wiki/Street_Lights_(Kanye_West_song)) " " See You in My Nightmares (/wiki/See_You_in_My_Nightmares) " " Coldest Winter (/wiki/Coldest_Winter_(song)) " My Beautiful Dark (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) " Dark Fantasy (/wiki/Dark_Fantasy_(song)) " " Gorgeous (/wiki/Gorgeous_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Power (/wiki/Power_(Kanye_West_song)) " " All of the Lights (/wiki/All_of_the_Lights) " " Monster (/wiki/Monster_(Kanye_West_song)) " " So Appalled (/wiki/So_Appalled) " " Devil in a New Dress (/wiki/Devil_in_a_New_Dress) " " Runaway (/wiki/Runaway_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Hell of a Life (/wiki/Hell_of_a_Life_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Blame Game (/wiki/Blame_Game) " " Lost in the World (/wiki/Lost_in_the_World) " " See Me Now (/wiki/See_Me_Now) " Watch the Throne (/wiki/Watch_the_Throne) " No Church in the Wild (/wiki/No_Church_in_the_Wild) " " Lift Off (/wiki/Lift_Off_(song)) " " Niggas in Paris (/wiki/Niggas_in_Paris) " " Otis (/wiki/Otis_(song)) " " Gotta Have It (/wiki/Gotta_Have_It_(song)) " " Welcome to the Jungle (/wiki/Welcome_to_the_Jungle_(Jay-Z_and_Kanye_West_song)) " " Who Gon Stop Me (/wiki/Who_Gon_Stop_Me) " " Murder to Excellence (/wiki/Murder_to_Excellence) " " Made in America (/wiki/Made_in_America_(Jay-Z_and_Kanye_West_song)) " " Why I Love You (/wiki/Why_I_Love_You_(Jay-Z_and_Kanye_West_song)) " Deluxe " Illest Motherfucker Alive (/wiki/Illest_Motherfucker_Alive) " " H•A•M (/wiki/H.A.M.) " Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) " Clique (/wiki/Clique_(song)) " " Mercy (/wiki/Mercy_(Kanye_West_song)) " " New God Flow (/wiki/New_God_Flow) " " Cold (/wiki/Cold_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Don't Like.1 (/wiki/Don%27t_Like.1) " Yeezus (/wiki/Yeezus) " On Sight (/wiki/On_Sight) " " Black Skinhead (/wiki/Black_Skinhead) " " I Am a God (/wiki/I_Am_a_God) " " New Slaves (/wiki/New_Slaves) " " Hold My Liquor (/wiki/Hold_My_Liquor) " " I'm in It (/wiki/I%27m_in_It) " " Blood on the Leaves (/wiki/Blood_on_the_Leaves) " " Guilt Trip (/wiki/Guilt_Trip_(song)) " " Send It Up (/wiki/Send_It_Up) " " Bound 2 (/wiki/Bound_2) " The Life of Pablo (/wiki/The_Life_of_Pablo) " Ultralight Beam (/wiki/Ultralight_Beam) " " Father Stretch My Hands (/wiki/Father_Stretch_My_Hands) " " Famous (/wiki/Famous_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Feedback (/wiki/Feedback_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Low Lights (/wiki/Low_Lights) " " Highlights (/wiki/Highlights_(song)) " " Freestyle 4 (/wiki/Freestyle_4) " " I Love 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(/wiki/4th_Dimension_(song)) " " Freeee (Ghost Town, Pt. 2) (/wiki/Freeee_(Ghost_Town,_Pt._2)) " " Reborn (/wiki/Reborn_(song)) " " Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts_(song)) " " Cudi Montage (/wiki/Cudi_Montage) " Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) " Selah (/wiki/Selah_(song)) " " Follow God (/wiki/Follow_God) " " Closed on Sunday (/wiki/Closed_on_Sunday) " " On God (/wiki/On_God) " " Everything We Need (/wiki/Everything_We_Need) " " Water (/wiki/Water_(Kanye_West_song)) " " God Is (/wiki/God_Is) " " Hands On (/wiki/Hands_On_(song)) " " Use This Gospel (/wiki/Use_This_Gospel) " " Jesus Is Lord (/wiki/Jesus_Is_Lord) " Donda (/wiki/Donda) " Donda Chant (/wiki/Donda_Chant) " " Jail (/wiki/Jail_(song)) " " God Breathed (/wiki/God_Breathed) " " Off the Grid (/wiki/Off_the_Grid_(song)) " " Hurricane (/wiki/Hurricane_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Praise God (/wiki/Praise_God) " " Jonah (/wiki/Jonah_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Ok Ok (/wiki/Ok_Ok_(song)) " " Junya (/wiki/Junya_(song)) " " Believe What I Say (/wiki/Believe_What_I_Say) " " 24 (/wiki/24_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Remote Control (/wiki/Remote_Control_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Moon (/wiki/Moon_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Keep My Spirit Alive (/wiki/Keep_My_Spirit_Alive) " " New Again (/wiki/New_Again_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Tell the Vision (/wiki/Tell_the_Vision) " " Pure Souls (/wiki/Pure_Souls) " Come to Life (/wiki/Come_to_Life_(song)) " " No Child Left Behind (/wiki/No_Child_Left_Behind_(song)) " " Jail pt 2 (/wiki/Jail_pt_2) " " Ok Ok pt 2 (/wiki/Ok_Ok_pt_2) " " Junya pt 2 (/wiki/Junya_pt_2) " Deluxe " Life of the Party (/wiki/Life_of_the_Party_(Kanye_West_and_Andr%C3%A9_3000_song)) " " Up from the Ashes (/wiki/Up_from_the_Ashes_(song)) " " Remote Control pt 2 (/wiki/Remote_Control_pt_2) " Donda 2 (/wiki/Donda_2) " City of Gods (/wiki/City_of_Gods) " " Eazy (/wiki/Eazy_(song)) " " True Love (/wiki/True_Love_(Kanye_West_and_XXXTentacion_song)) " Vultures 1 (/wiki/Vultures_1) " Stars (/wiki/Stars_(%C2%A5$_song)) " " Talking / Once Again (/wiki/Talking_/_Once_Again) " " Back to Me (/wiki/Back_to_Me_(%C2%A5$_song)) " " Hoodrat (/wiki/Hoodrat) " " Burn (/wiki/Burn_(%C2%A5$_song)) " " Fuk Sumn (/wiki/Fuk_Sumn) " " Vultures (/wiki/Vultures_(song)) " " Carnival (/wiki/Carnival_(%C2%A5$_song)) " " Good (Don't Die) (/wiki/Good_(Don%27t_Die)) " Other singles " Impossible (/wiki/Impossible_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Classic (Better Than I've Ever Been) (/wiki/Classic_(Better_Than_I%27ve_Ever_Been)) " " Forever (/wiki/Forever_(Drake,_Kanye_West,_Lil_Wayne,_and_Eminem_song)) " " We Are the World 25 for Haiti (/wiki/We_Are_the_World_25_for_Haiti) " " Christmas in Harlem (/wiki/Christmas_in_Harlem) " " Only One (/wiki/Only_One_(Kanye_West_song)) " " FourFiveSeconds (/wiki/FourFiveSeconds) " " All Day (/wiki/All_Day_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Champions (/wiki/Champions_(GOOD_Music_song)) " " Lift Yourself (/wiki/Lift_Yourself) " " Ye vs. the People (/wiki/Ye_vs._the_People) " " XTCY (/wiki/XTCY) " " I Love It (/wiki/I_Love_It_(Kanye_West_and_Lil_Pump_song)) " " Wash Us in the Blood (/wiki/Wash_Us_in_the_Blood) " " Nah Nah Nah (/wiki/Nah_Nah_Nah) " Featured singles " This Way (/wiki/This_Way_(Dilated_Peoples_song)) " " Talk About Our Love (/wiki/Talk_About_Our_Love) " " The Food (/wiki/The_Food) " " I Changed My Mind (/wiki/I_Changed_My_Mind) " " Down and Out (/wiki/Down_and_Out_(Cam%27ron_song)) " " The Corner (/wiki/The_Corner_(song)) " " Go! (/wiki/Go!_(Common_song)) " " Number One (/wiki/Number_One_(John_Legend_song)) " " Extravaganza (/wiki/Extravaganza_(song)) " " Brand New (/wiki/Brand_New_(Rhymefest_song)) " " Grammy Family (/wiki/Grammy_Family) " " Number One (/wiki/Number_One_(Pharrell_Williams_song)) " " Wouldn't Get Far (/wiki/Wouldn%27t_Get_Far) " " I Still Love H.E.R. (/wiki/I_Still_Love_H.E.R.) " " Pro Nails (/wiki/Pro_Nails) " " Finer Things (/wiki/Finer_Things_(DJ_Felli_Fel_song)) " " American Boy (/wiki/American_Boy) " " Put On (/wiki/Put_On) " " Stay Up! 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(/wiki/E.T._(song)) " " Marvin & Chardonnay (/wiki/Marvin_%26_Chardonnay) " " Pride N Joy (/wiki/Pride_N_Joy) " " I Wish You Would (/wiki/I_Wish_You_Would_(DJ_Khaled_song)) " " Birthday Song (/wiki/Birthday_Song_(2_Chainz_song)) " " Thank You (/wiki/Thank_You_(Busta_Rhymes_song)) " " I Won (/wiki/I_Won) " " Blessings (/wiki/Blessings_(Big_Sean_song)) " " U Mad (/wiki/U_Mad) " " One Man Can Change the World (/wiki/One_Man_Can_Change_the_World) " " Pop Style (/wiki/Pop_Style) " " Figure It Out (/wiki/Figure_It_Out_(French_Montana_song)) " " That Part (/wiki/That_Part) " " Friends (/wiki/Friends_(Francis_and_the_Lights_song)) " " Ballin (/wiki/Ballin_(Juicy_J_song)) " " Castro (/wiki/Castro_(song)) " " Feel Me (/wiki/Feel_Me_(Tyga_song)) " " Love Yourself (/wiki/Love_Yourself_(Mary_J._Blige_song)) " " Glow (/wiki/Glow_(Drake_song)) " " Watch (/wiki/Watch_(Travis_Scott_song)) " " Take Me to the Light (/wiki/Take_Me_to_the_Light) " " Ego Death (/wiki/Ego_Death_(song)) " " Keep It Burnin (/wiki/Keep_It_Burnin) " " Hot Shit (/wiki/Hot_Shit_(song)) " " No Face (/wiki/No_Face_(song)) " Promotional singles " Facts (/wiki/Facts_(Kanye_West_song)) " Other songs " Champions (/wiki/Champions_(Paid_in_Full_song)) " " Us Placers (/wiki/Us_Placers) " " Beat Goes On (/wiki/Beat_Goes_On_(Madonna_song)) " " Billie Jean 2008 (/wiki/Billie_Jean_2008) " " Everyone Nose (All the Girls Standing in the Line for the Bathroom) (/wiki/Everyone_Nose_(All_the_Girls_Standing_in_the_Line_for_the_Bathroom)) " (Remix) " Therapy (/wiki/Therapy_(T-Pain_song)) " " Ego (/wiki/Ego_(Beyonc%C3%A9_song)) " (Remix) " Blazin' (/wiki/Blazin%27_(song)) " " Welcome to the World (/wiki/Welcome_to_the_World_(T.I._song)) " " Sanctified (/wiki/Sanctified_(song)) " " Drunk in Love (/wiki/Drunk_in_Love) " (Remix) " All Your Fault (/wiki/All_Your_Fault_(Big_Sean_song)) " " Smuckers (/wiki/Smuckers_(song)) " " Jukebox Joints (/wiki/Jukebox_Joints) " " All We Got (/wiki/All_We_Got_(Chance_the_Rapper_song)) " " Pussy Print (/wiki/Pussy_Print) " " Cops Shot the Kid (/wiki/Cops_Shot_the_Kid) " " Kanga (/wiki/Kanga_(song)) " " Mama (/wiki/Mama_(6ix9ine_song)) " " One Minute (/wiki/One_Minute_(XXXTentacion_song)) " " Mixed Personalities (/wiki/Mixed_Personalities) " " Go2DaMoon (/wiki/Go2DaMoon) " Unreleased songs " Brothers (/wiki/Brothers_(Kanye_West_song)) " " LA Monster (/wiki/LA_Monster) " " New Body (/wiki/New_Body) " " Can U Be (/wiki/Can_U_Be) " Category (/wiki/Category:Kanye_West) Awards for Kanye West (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Kanye_West) v t e American Music Award for Favorite Rap/Hip Hop Artist (/wiki/American_Music_Award_for_Favorite_Rap/Hip_Hop_Artist) DJ Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince (/wiki/DJ_Jazzy_Jeff_%26_The_Fresh_Prince) (1989) MC Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) (1990) MC Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) (1991) MC Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) (1992) Sir Mix-a-Lot (/wiki/Sir_Mix-a-Lot) (1993) Dr. Dre (/wiki/Dr._Dre) (1994) Snoop Dogg (/wiki/Snoop_Dogg) (1995) Coolio (/wiki/Coolio) (1996) Tupac Shakur (/wiki/Tupac_Shakur) (1997) Bone Thugs-n-Harmony (/wiki/Bone_Thugs-n-Harmony) (1998) Master P (/wiki/Master_P) (1999) DMX (/wiki/DMX) (2000) Dr. Dre (/wiki/Dr._Dre) (2001) Nelly (/wiki/Nelly) (2002) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) / Mary J. Blige (/wiki/Mary_J._Blige) (2003) 50 Cent (/wiki/50_Cent) / Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) (2003) Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2004) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) / Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) (2005) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2006) T.I. (/wiki/T.I.) (2007) Kanye West (2008) Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2009) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2010) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2011) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2012) Macklemore & Ryan Lewis (/wiki/Macklemore_%26_Ryan_Lewis) (2013) Iggy Azalea (/wiki/Iggy_Azalea) (2014) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2015) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2016) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2017) Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) (2018) Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) (2019) Juice Wrld (/wiki/Juice_Wrld) / Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2020) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) / Megan Thee Stallion (/wiki/Megan_Thee_Stallion) (2021) v t e BET Award for Best Collaboration (/wiki/BET_Award_for_Best_Collaboration) Snoop Dogg (/wiki/Snoop_Dogg) , Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) and Charlie Wilson (/wiki/Charlie_Wilson_(singer)) (2003) Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) and Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2004) Ciara (/wiki/Ciara) and Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) (2005) Kanye West and Jamie Foxx (/wiki/Jamie_Foxx) (2006) Ludacris (/wiki/Ludacris) and Mary J. Blige (/wiki/Mary_J._Blige) (2007) Kanye West and T-Pain (/wiki/T-Pain) (2008) Jamie Foxx (/wiki/Jamie_Foxx) and T-Pain (/wiki/T-Pain) (2009) Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) and Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) (2010) Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown) , Busta Rhymes (/wiki/Busta_Rhymes) and Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) (2011) Wale (/wiki/Wale_(rapper)) and Miguel (/wiki/Miguel_(singer)) (2012) ASAP Rocky (/wiki/ASAP_Rocky) , Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) , 2 Chainz (/wiki/2_Chainz) and Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2013) Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) and Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2014) Common (/wiki/Common_(rapper)) and John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) (2015) Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) and Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2016) Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) , 2 Chainz (/wiki/2_Chainz) and Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) (2017) DJ Khaled (/wiki/DJ_Khaled) , Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) and Bryson Tiller (/wiki/Bryson_Tiller) (2018) Travis Scott (/wiki/Travis_Scott) and Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2019) Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown) and Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2020) Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) and Megan Thee Stallion (/wiki/Megan_Thee_Stallion) (2021) Wizkid (/wiki/Wizkid) , Justin Bieber (/wiki/Justin_Bieber) and Tems (/wiki/Tems) (2022) Future (/wiki/Future_(rapper)) , Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) and Tems (/wiki/Tems) (2023) Lil Durk (/wiki/Lil_Durk) and J. Cole (/wiki/J._Cole) (2024) v t e BET Award for Best Male Hip Hop Artist (/wiki/BET_Award_for_Best_Male_Hip_Hop_Artist) Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2001) Ja Rule (/wiki/Ja_Rule) (2002) 50 Cent (/wiki/50_Cent) (2003) Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2004) Kanye West (2005) T.I. (/wiki/T.I.) (2006) T.I. (/wiki/T.I.) (2007) Kanye West (2008) Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) (2009) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2010) Kanye West (2011) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2012) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2013) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2014) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2015) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2016) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2017) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2018) Nipsey Hussle (/wiki/Nipsey_Hussle) (2019) DaBaby (/wiki/DaBaby) (2020) Lil Baby (/wiki/Lil_Baby) (2021) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2022) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2023) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2024) v t e BET Award for Best New Artist (/wiki/BET_Award_for_Best_New_Artist) Nelly (/wiki/Nelly) (2001) Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) (2002) 50 Cent (/wiki/50_Cent) (2003) Kanye West (2004) John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) (2005) Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown) (2006) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2007) The-Dream (/wiki/The-Dream) (2008) Keri Hilson (/wiki/Keri_Hilson) (2009) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2010) Wiz Khalifa (/wiki/Wiz_Khalifa) (2011) Big Sean (/wiki/Big_Sean) (2012) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2013) August Alsina (/wiki/August_Alsina) (2014) Sam Smith (/wiki/Sam_Smith_(singer)) (2015) Bryson Tiller (/wiki/Bryson_Tiller) (2016) Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) (2017) SZA (/wiki/SZA) (2018) Lil Baby (/wiki/Lil_Baby) (2019) Roddy Ricch (/wiki/Roddy_Ricch) (2020) Giveon (/wiki/Giveon) (2021) Latto (/wiki/Latto) (2022) Coco Jones (/wiki/Coco_Jones) (2023) Tyla (/wiki/Tyla_(South_African_singer)) (2024) v t e BET Award for Video of the Year (/wiki/BET_Award_for_Video_of_the_Year) 2000s " Ms. Jackson (/wiki/Ms._Jackson) " – OutKast (/wiki/OutKast) (2001) " Pass the Courvoisier, Part II (/wiki/Pass_the_Courvoisier,_Part_II) " – Busta Rhymes (/wiki/Busta_Rhymes) (2002) " Love of My Life (An Ode to Hip-Hop) (/wiki/Love_of_My_Life_(An_Ode_to_Hip-Hop)) " – Erykah Badu (/wiki/Erykah_Badu) (2003) " Hey Ya! (/wiki/Hey_Ya!) " – OutKast (/wiki/OutKast) (2004) " Jesus Walks (/wiki/Jesus_Walks) " – Kanye West (2005) " Be Without You (/wiki/Be_Without_You) " – Mary J. Blige (/wiki/Mary_J._Blige) / " Gold Digger (/wiki/Gold_Digger_(Kanye_West_song)) " – Kanye West featuring Jamie Foxx (/wiki/Jamie_Foxx) (2006) " Irreplaceable (/wiki/Irreplaceable) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2007) " International Players Anthem (I Choose You) (/wiki/International_Players_Anthem_(I_Choose_You)) " – UGK (/wiki/UGK) (2008) " Single Ladies (Put a Ring on It) (/wiki/Single_Ladies_(Put_a_Ring_on_It)) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2009) 2010s " Video Phone (/wiki/Video_Phone_(song)) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) featuring Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) (2010) " Look at Me Now (/wiki/Look_at_Me_Now_(Chris_Brown_song)) " – Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown) (2011) " Otis (/wiki/Otis_(song)) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) and Kanye West featuring Otis Redding (/wiki/Otis_Redding) (2012) " Started from the Bottom (/wiki/Started_from_the_Bottom) " – Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2013) " Happy (/wiki/Happy_(Pharrell_Williams_song)) " – Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) (2014) " 7/11 (/wiki/7/11_(song)) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2015) " Formation (/wiki/Formation_(song)) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2016) " Sorry (/wiki/Sorry_(Beyonc%C3%A9_song)) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) / " 24K Magic (/wiki/24k_Magic_(song)) " – Bruno Mars (/wiki/Bruno_Mars) (2017) " God's Plan (/wiki/God%27s_Plan_(song)) " – Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2018) " This Is America (/wiki/This_Is_America_(song)) " – Childish Gambino (/wiki/Donald_Glover) (2019) 2020s " Higher (/wiki/Higher_(DJ_Khaled_song)) " – DJ Khaled (/wiki/DJ_Khaled) featuring Nipsey Hussle (/wiki/Nipsey_Hussle) and John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) (2020) " WAP (/wiki/WAP_(song)) " – Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) featuring Megan Thee Stallion (/wiki/Megan_Thee_Stallion) (2021) " Family Ties (/wiki/Family_Ties_(song)) " – Baby Keem (/wiki/Baby_Keem) and Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) / " Smokin out the Window (/wiki/Smokin_out_the_Window) " – Silk Sonic (/wiki/Silk_Sonic) (2022) " Kill Bill (/wiki/Kill_Bill_(SZA_song)) " – SZA (/wiki/SZA) (2023) " On My Mama (/wiki/On_My_Mama) " – Victoria Monét (/wiki/Victoria_Mon%C3%A9t) (2024) v t e Brit Award for International Male Solo Artist (/wiki/Brit_Award_for_International_Male_Solo_Artist) Michael Jackson (/wiki/Michael_Jackson) (1989) Michael Hutchence (/wiki/Michael_Hutchence) (1991) Lenny Kravitz (/wiki/Lenny_Kravitz) (1994) Prince (/wiki/Prince_(musician)) (1995) Prince (/wiki/Prince_(musician)) (1996) Beck (/wiki/Beck) (1997) Jon Bon Jovi (/wiki/Jon_Bon_Jovi) (1998) Beck (/wiki/Beck) (1999) Beck (/wiki/Beck) (2000) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2001) Shaggy (/wiki/Shaggy_(musician)) (2002) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2003) Justin Timberlake (/wiki/Justin_Timberlake) (2004) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2005) Kanye West (2006) Justin Timberlake (/wiki/Justin_Timberlake) (2007) Kanye West (2008) Kanye West (2009) Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2010) CeeLo Green (/wiki/CeeLo_Green) (2011) Bruno Mars (/wiki/Bruno_Mars) (2012) Frank Ocean (/wiki/Frank_Ocean) (2013) Bruno Mars (/wiki/Bruno_Mars) (2014) Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) (2015) Justin Bieber (/wiki/Justin_Bieber) (2016) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2017) Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2018) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2019) Tyler, the Creator (/wiki/Tyler,_the_Creator) (2020) The Weeknd (/wiki/The_Weeknd) (2021) v t e Consequence (/wiki/Consequence_(publication)) Artist / Band of the Year Artist 2010 Kanye West 2011 James Blake (/wiki/James_Blake_(musician)) 2012 Frank Ocean (/wiki/Frank_Ocean) 2013 Kanye West 2014 Run the Jewels (/wiki/Run_the_Jewels) 2015 Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) 2016 Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) 2017 Lorde (/wiki/Lorde) 2018 Janelle Monáe (/wiki/Janelle_Mon%C3%A1e) 2019 Billie Eilish (/wiki/Billie_Eilish) 2020 Phoebe Bridgers (/wiki/Phoebe_Bridgers) 2021 Lil Nas X (/wiki/Lil_Nas_X) 2022 Harry Styles (/wiki/Harry_Styles) Band 2010 The Roots (/wiki/The_Roots) 2011 Foo Fighters (/wiki/Foo_Fighters) 2012 Death Grips (/wiki/Death_Grips) 2013 Arcade Fire (/wiki/Arcade_Fire) 2014 The War on Drugs (/wiki/The_War_on_Drugs_(band)) 2015 Tame Impala (/wiki/Tame_Impala) 2016 Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band (/wiki/E_Street_Band) 2017 King Gizzard & the Lizard Wizard (/wiki/King_Gizzard_%26_the_Lizard_Wizard) 2018 Pearl Jam (/wiki/Pearl_Jam) 2019 Tool (/wiki/Tool_(band)) 2020 BTS (/wiki/BTS) 2021 Chvrches (/wiki/Chvrches) 2022 Muna (/wiki/Muna_(band)) v t e Glamour Award for Man of the Year (/wiki/Glamour_Awards) David Schwimmer (/wiki/David_Schwimmer) (2004) Usher (/wiki/Usher_(musician)) (2005) Paul Bettany (/wiki/Paul_Bettany) (2006) Eric Mabius (/wiki/Eric_Mabius) (2007) Mark Ronson (/wiki/Mark_Ronson) (2008) Kanye West (2009) Aaron Johnson (/wiki/Aaron_Taylor-Johnson) (2010) Garrett Hedlund (/wiki/Garrett_Hedlund) (2011) Tom Hiddleston (/wiki/Tom_Hiddleston) (2012) Daniel Radcliffe (/wiki/Daniel_Radcliffe) (2013) Sam Claflin (/wiki/Sam_Claflin) (2014) Calvin Harris (/wiki/Calvin_Harris) (2015) James Norton (/wiki/James_Norton_(actor)) (2016) James Corden (/wiki/James_Corden) (2017) v t e Grammy Award for Best Rap Album (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Album) 1990s Poverty's Paradise (/wiki/Poverty%27s_Paradise) – Naughty by Nature (/wiki/Naughty_by_Nature) (1995) The Score (/wiki/The_Score_(album)) – Fugees (/wiki/Fugees) (1996) No Way Out (/wiki/No_Way_Out_(Puff_Daddy_album)) – Puff Daddy (/wiki/Sean_Combs) and the Family (1997) Vol. 2... Hard Knock Life (/wiki/Vol._2..._Hard_Knock_Life) – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (1998) The Slim Shady LP (/wiki/The_Slim_Shady_LP) – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (1999) 2000s The Marshall Mathers LP (/wiki/The_Marshall_Mathers_LP) – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2000) Stankonia (/wiki/Stankonia) – Outkast (/wiki/Outkast) (2001) The Eminem Show (/wiki/The_Eminem_Show) – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2002) Speakerboxxx/The Love Below (/wiki/Speakerboxxx/The_Love_Below) – Outkast (/wiki/Outkast) (2003) The College Dropout (/wiki/The_College_Dropout) – Kanye West (2004) Late Registration (/wiki/Late_Registration) – Kanye West (2005) Release Therapy (/wiki/Release_Therapy) – Ludacris (/wiki/Ludacris) (2006) Graduation (/wiki/Graduation_(album)) – Kanye West (2007) Tha Carter III (/wiki/Tha_Carter_III) – Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) (2008) Relapse (/wiki/Relapse_(Eminem_album)) – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2009) 2010s Recovery (/wiki/Recovery_(Eminem_album)) – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2010) My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy (/wiki/My_Beautiful_Dark_Twisted_Fantasy) – Kanye West (2011) Take Care (/wiki/Take_Care_(album)) – Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2012) The Heist (/wiki/The_Heist_(album)) – Macklemore & Ryan Lewis (/wiki/Macklemore_%26_Ryan_Lewis) (2013) The Marshall Mathers LP 2 (/wiki/The_Marshall_Mathers_LP_2) – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2014) To Pimp a Butterfly (/wiki/To_Pimp_a_Butterfly) – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2015) Coloring Book (/wiki/Coloring_Book_(mixtape)) – Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) (2016) Damn (/wiki/Damn_(Kendrick_Lamar_album)) – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2017) Invasion of Privacy (/wiki/Invasion_of_Privacy_(album)) – Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) (2018) Igor (/wiki/Igor_(album)) – Tyler, the Creator (/wiki/Tyler,_the_Creator) (2019) 2020s King's Disease (/wiki/King%27s_Disease) – Nas (/wiki/Nas) (2020) Call Me If You Get Lost (/wiki/Call_Me_If_You_Get_Lost) – Tyler, the Creator (/wiki/Tyler,_the_Creator) (2021) Mr. Morale & the Big Steppers (/wiki/Mr._Morale_%26_the_Big_Steppers) – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2022) Michael (/wiki/Michael_(Killer_Mike_album)) – Killer Mike (/wiki/Killer_Mike) (2023) v t e Grammy Award for Best Rap Solo Performance (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Solo_Performance) 1990s " U Can't Touch This (/wiki/U_Can%27t_Touch_This) " – MC Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) (1990) " Mama Said Knock You Out (/wiki/Mama_Said_Knock_You_Out_(song)) " – LL Cool J (/wiki/LL_Cool_J) (1991) " Baby Got Back (/wiki/Baby_Got_Back) " – Sir Mix-a-Lot (/wiki/Sir_Mix-a-Lot) (1992) " Let Me Ride (/wiki/Let_Me_Ride) " – Dr. Dre (/wiki/Dr._Dre) (1993) " U.N.I.T.Y. (/wiki/U.N.I.T.Y.) " – Queen Latifah (/wiki/Queen_Latifah) (1994) " Gangsta's Paradise (/wiki/Gangsta%27s_Paradise) " – Coolio (/wiki/Coolio) (1995) " Hey Lover (/wiki/Hey_Lover) " – LL Cool J (/wiki/LL_Cool_J) (1996) " Men in Black (/wiki/Men_in_Black_(song)) " – Will Smith (/wiki/Will_Smith) (1997) " Gettin' Jiggy wit It (/wiki/Gettin%27_Jiggy_wit_It) " – Will Smith (/wiki/Will_Smith) (1998) " My Name Is (/wiki/My_Name_Is) " – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (1999) 2000s " The Real Slim Shady (/wiki/The_Real_Slim_Shady) " – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2000) " Get Ur Freak On (/wiki/Get_Ur_Freak_On) " – Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) (2001) "Scream a.k.a. Itchin'" – Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) / " Hot in Herre (/wiki/Hot_in_Herre) " – Nelly (/wiki/Nelly) (2002) " Work It (/wiki/Work_It_(Missy_Elliott_song)) " – Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) / " Lose Yourself (/wiki/Lose_Yourself) " – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2003) " 99 Problems (/wiki/99_Problems) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2004) " Gold Digger (/wiki/Gold_Digger_(Kanye_West_song)) " – Kanye West (2005) " What You Know (/wiki/What_You_Know_(T.I._song)) " – T.I. (/wiki/T.I.) (2006) " Stronger (/wiki/Stronger_(Kanye_West_song)) " – Kanye West (2007) " A Milli (/wiki/A_Milli) " – Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) (2008) " D.O.A. (Death of Auto-Tune) (/wiki/D.O.A._(Death_of_Auto-Tune)) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2009) 2010s " Not Afraid (/wiki/Not_Afraid) " – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (2010) v t e Grammy Award for Best Rap Performance (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Performance) 1980s " Parents Just Don't Understand (/wiki/Parents_Just_Don%27t_Understand) " – DJ Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince (/wiki/DJ_Jazzy_Jeff_%26_The_Fresh_Prince) (1988) " Bust a Move (/wiki/Bust_a_Move_(song)) " – Young MC (/wiki/Young_MC) (1989) 2010s " Otis (/wiki/Otis_(song)) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) & Kanye West (2011) " Niggas in Paris (/wiki/Niggas_in_Paris) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) & Kanye West (2012) " Thrift Shop (/wiki/Thrift_Shop) " – Macklemore & Ryan Lewis (/wiki/Macklemore_%26_Ryan_Lewis) featuring Wanz (/wiki/Wanz) (2013) " I (/wiki/I_(Kendrick_Lamar_song)) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2014) " Alright (/wiki/Alright_(Kendrick_Lamar_song)) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2015) " No Problem (/wiki/No_Problem_(Chance_the_Rapper_song)) " – Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) featuring Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) & 2 Chainz (/wiki/2_Chainz) (2016) " Humble (/wiki/Humble_(song)) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2017) " Bubblin (/wiki/Bubblin_(song)) " – Anderson .Paak (/wiki/Anderson_.Paak) / " King's Dead (/wiki/King%27s_Dead) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) , Jay Rock (/wiki/Jay_Rock) , Future (/wiki/Future_(rapper)) & James Blake (/wiki/James_Blake_(musician)) (2018) " Racks in the Middle (/wiki/Racks_in_the_Middle) " – Nipsey Hussle (/wiki/Nipsey_Hussle) featuring Roddy Ricch (/wiki/Roddy_Ricch) & Hit-Boy (/wiki/Hit-Boy) (2019) 2020s " Savage (/wiki/Savage_(Megan_Thee_Stallion_song)) " – Megan Thee Stallion (/wiki/Megan_Thee_Stallion) featuring Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2020) " Family Ties (/wiki/Family_Ties_(song)) " – Baby Keem (/wiki/Baby_Keem) featuring Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2021) " The Heart Part 5 (/wiki/The_Heart_Part_5) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2022) "Scientists & Engineers" – Killer Mike (/wiki/Killer_Mike) featuring André 3000 (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_3000) , Future (/wiki/Future_(rapper)) & Eryn Allen Kane (/wiki/Eryn_Allen_Kane) (2023) Between 1990–2010, the category was split into two categories Best Rap Solo Performance (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Solo_Performance) and Best Rap Performance by a Duo or Group (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Performance_by_a_Duo_or_Group) . v t e Grammy Award for Best Rap Song (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Rap_Song) 2000s " Lose Yourself (/wiki/Lose_Yourself) " – Jeff Bass (/wiki/Jeff_Bass) , Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) & Luis Resto (/wiki/Luis_Resto_(musician)) (songwriters) (2003) " Jesus Walks (/wiki/Jesus_Walks) " – Miri Ben-Ari (/wiki/Miri_Ben-Ari) , Che Smith (/wiki/Rhymefest) & Kanye West (songwriters) (2004) " Diamonds from Sierra Leone (/wiki/Diamonds_from_Sierra_Leone) " – Devon Harris (/wiki/Devo_Harris) & Kanye West (songwriters) (2005) " Money Maker (/wiki/Money_Maker) " – Ludacris (/wiki/Ludacris) and Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) (songwriters) (2006) " Good Life (/wiki/Good_Life_(Kanye_West_song)) – Aldrin Davis (/wiki/Aldrin_Davis) , Faheem Najm (/wiki/T-Pain) & Kanye West (songwriters) (2007) " Lollipop (/wiki/Lollipop_(Lil_Wayne_song)) " – Dwayne Carter (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) , Stephen Garrett (/wiki/Static_Major) , Darius Harrison (/wiki/Deezle) , Jim Jonsin (/wiki/Jim_Jonsin) & Rex Zamor (songwriters) (2008) " Run This Town (/wiki/Run_This_Town) " – Shawn Carter (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Robyn Fenty (/wiki/Rihanna) , Makeba Riddick (/wiki/Makeba_Riddick) , Kanye West & Ernest Wilson (/wiki/No_I.D.) (songwriters) (2009) 2010s " Empire State of Mind (/wiki/Empire_State_of_Mind) " – Shawn Carter (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Angela Hunte (/wiki/7669_(group)) , Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) , Jane't "Jnay" Sewell-Ulepic & Alexander Shuckburgh (/wiki/Al_Shux) (songwriters) (2010) " All of the Lights (/wiki/All_of_the_Lights) " – Jeff Bhasker (/wiki/Jeff_Bhasker) , Stacy Ferguson (/wiki/Fergie_(singer)) , Malik Jones (/wiki/Malik_Yusef) , Warren Trotter (/wiki/Really_Doe_(rapper)) & Kanye West (songwriters) (2011) " Niggas in Paris (/wiki/Niggas_in_Paris) " – Shawn Carter (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Mike Dean (/wiki/Mike_Dean_(producer)) , Chauncey Hollis (/wiki/Chauncey_Hollis) & Kanye West (songwriters) (2012) " Thrift Shop (/wiki/Thrift_Shop) " – Ben Haggerty (/wiki/Macklemore) & Ryan Lewis (/wiki/Ryan_Lewis) (songwriters) (2013) " i (/wiki/I_(Kendrick_Lamar_song)) " – Kendrick Duckworth (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) , Columbus Smith (/wiki/Rahki) & Ronald Isley (/wiki/Ronald_Isley) (songwriters) (2014) " Alright (/wiki/Alright_(Kendrick_Lamar_song)) " – Kendrick Duckworth (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) , Kawan Prather (/wiki/Kawan_Prather) , Mark Spears (/wiki/Mark_Spears) & Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) (songwriters) (2015) " Hotline Bling (/wiki/Hotline_Bling) " – Aubrey Graham (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) & Paul Jefferies (/wiki/Nineteen85) (songwriters) (2016) " Humble (/wiki/Humble_(song)) " – Kendrick Duckworth (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) , Asheton Hogan (/wiki/Asheton_Hogan) & Michael Williams II (/wiki/Mike_Will_Made_It) (songwriters) (2017) " God's Plan (/wiki/God%27s_Plan_(song)) " – Aubrey Graham (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) , Ronald LaTour (/wiki/Cardo_(record_producer)) , Daveon Jackson, Brock Korsan, Matthew Samuels (/wiki/Boi-1da) & Noah Shebib (/wiki/40_(record_producer)) (songwriters) (2018) " A Lot (/wiki/A_Lot_(song)) " – Jermaine Cole (/wiki/J._Cole) , Dacoury Natche (/wiki/DJ_Dahi) , 21 Savage (/wiki/21_Savage) & Anthony White (/wiki/J._White_Did_It) (songwriters) (2019) 2020s " Savage (/wiki/Savage_(Megan_Thee_Stallion_song)) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , Shawn Carter (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Brittany Hazzard (/wiki/Starrah) , Derrick Milano (/wiki/Derrick_Milano) , Terius Nash (/wiki/The-Dream) , Megan Pete (/wiki/Megan_Thee_Stallion) , Bobby Sessions Jr. (/wiki/Bobby_Sessions) , Jordan Kyle Lanier Thorpe (/wiki/Pardison_Fontaine) & Anthony White (/wiki/J._White_Did_It) (songwriters) (2020) " Jail (/wiki/Jail_(song)) " – Dwayne Abernathy, Jr. (/wiki/Dem_Jointz) , Shawn Carter (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Raul Cubina (/wiki/Ojivolta) , Michael Dean (/wiki/Mike_Dean_(record_producer)) , Charles M. Njapa (/wiki/88-Keys) , Sean Solymar, Kanye West & Mark Williams (/wiki/Ojivolta) (songwriters) (2021) " The Heart Part 5 (/wiki/The_Heart_Part_5) " – Jake Kosich, Johnny Kosich, Kendrick Duckworth (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) & Matt Schaeffer (songwriters) (2022) "Scientists & Engineers" – Andre Benjamin (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_3000) , Paul Beauregard (/wiki/DJ_Paul) , James Blake (/wiki/James_Blake_(musician)) , Michael Render (/wiki/Killer_Mike) , Tim Moore & Dion Wilson (/wiki/No_I.D.) (songwriters) (2023) v t e Grammy Award for Best Melodic Rap Performance (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Melodic_Rap_Performance) 2000s " Let Me Blow Ya Mind (/wiki/Let_Me_Blow_Ya_Mind) " – Eve (/wiki/Eve_(rapper)) featuring Gwen Stefani (/wiki/Gwen_Stefani) (2001) " Dilemma (/wiki/Dilemma_(Nelly_song)) " – Nelly (/wiki/Nelly) featuring Kelly Rowland (/wiki/Kelly_Rowland) (2002) " Crazy in Love (/wiki/Crazy_in_Love) " – Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) featuring Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2003) " Yeah! (/wiki/Yeah!_(Usher_song)) " – Usher (/wiki/Usher_(musician)) featuring Ludacris (/wiki/Ludacris) and Lil Jon (/wiki/Lil_Jon) (2004) " Numb/Encore (/wiki/Numb/Encore) " – Linkin Park (/wiki/Linkin_Park) and Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2005) " My Love (/wiki/My_Love_(Justin_Timberlake_song)) " – Justin Timberlake (/wiki/Justin_Timberlake) featuring T.I. (/wiki/T.I.) (2006) " Umbrella (/wiki/Umbrella_(song)) " – Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) featuring Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2007) " American Boy (/wiki/American_Boy) " – Estelle (/wiki/Estelle_(musician)) featuring Kanye West (2008) " Run This Town (/wiki/Run_This_Town) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) featuring Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) and Kanye West (2009) 2010s " Empire State of Mind (/wiki/Empire_State_of_Mind) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) featuring Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) (2010) " All of the Lights (/wiki/All_of_the_Lights) " – Kanye West , Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , Kid Cudi (/wiki/Kid_Cudi) and Fergie (/wiki/Fergie_(singer)) (2011) " No Church in the Wild (/wiki/No_Church_in_the_Wild) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) , Kanye West , Frank Ocean (/wiki/Frank_Ocean) and The-Dream (/wiki/The-Dream) (2012) " Holy Grail (/wiki/Holy_Grail_(Jay-Z_song)) " – Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) and Justin Timberlake (/wiki/Justin_Timberlake) (2013) " The Monster (/wiki/The_Monster_(song)) " – Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) featuring Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) (2014) " These Walls (/wiki/These_Walls_(Kendrick_Lamar_song)) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) featuring Bilal (/wiki/Bilal_(American_singer)) , Anna Wise & Thundercat (/wiki/Thundercat_(musician)) (2015) " Hotline Bling (/wiki/Hotline_Bling) " – Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2016) " LOYALTY. (/wiki/Loyalty_(Kendrick_Lamar_song)) " – Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) featuring Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) (2017) " This Is America (/wiki/This_Is_America_(song)) " – Childish Gambino (/wiki/Donald_Glover) (2018) " Higher (/wiki/Higher_(DJ_Khaled_song)) " – DJ Khaled (/wiki/DJ_Khaled) featuring Nipsey Hussle (/wiki/Nipsey_Hussle) & John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) (2019) 2020s "Lockdown" – Anderson .Paak (/wiki/Anderson_.Paak) (2020) " Hurricane (/wiki/Hurricane_(Kanye_West_song)) " – Kanye West featuring The Weeknd (/wiki/The_Weeknd) & Lil Baby (/wiki/Lil_Baby) (2021) " Wait for U (/wiki/Wait_for_U) " – Future (/wiki/Future_(rapper)) featuring Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) & Tems (/wiki/Tems) (2022) " All My Life (/wiki/All_My_Life_(Lil_Durk_song)) " – Lil Durk (/wiki/Lil_Durk) featuring J. Cole (/wiki/J._Cole) (2023) v t e Michael Jackson Video Vanguard Award (/wiki/Michael_Jackson_Video_Vanguard_Award) The Beatles (/wiki/The_Beatles) and Richard Lester (/wiki/Richard_Lester) (1984) David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) (1984) David Byrne (/wiki/David_Byrne) (1985) Russell Mulcahy (/wiki/Russell_Mulcahy) (1985) Godley & Creme (/wiki/Godley_%26_Creme) (1985) Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) (1986) Zbigniew Rybczyński (/wiki/Zbigniew_Rybczy%C5%84ski) (1986) Peter Gabriel (/wiki/Peter_Gabriel) (1987) Julien Temple (/wiki/Julien_Temple) (1987) Michael Jackson (/wiki/Michael_Jackson) (1988) George Michael (/wiki/George_Michael) (1989) Janet Jackson (/wiki/Janet_Jackson) (1990) Bon Jovi (/wiki/Bon_Jovi) and Wayne Isham (/wiki/Wayne_Isham) (1991) Guns N' Roses (/wiki/Guns_N%27_Roses) (1992) The Rolling Stones (/wiki/The_Rolling_Stones) (1994) Tom Petty (/wiki/Tom_Petty) (1994) R.E.M. (/wiki/R.E.M.) (1995) LL Cool J (/wiki/LL_Cool_J) (1997) Mark Romanek (/wiki/Mark_Romanek) (1997) Beastie Boys (/wiki/Beastie_Boys) (1998) Red Hot Chili Peppers (/wiki/Red_Hot_Chili_Peppers) (2000) U2 (/wiki/U2) (2001) Duran Duran (/wiki/Duran_Duran) (2003) Hype Williams (/wiki/Hype_Williams) (2006) Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) (2011) Justin Timberlake (/wiki/Justin_Timberlake) (2013) Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2014) Kanye West (2015) Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) (2016) Pink (/wiki/Pink_(singer)) (2017) Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) (2018) Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) (2019) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2022) Shakira (/wiki/Shakira) (2023) v t e MTV Europe Music Award for Best Hip Hop (/wiki/MTV_Europe_Music_Award_for_Best_Hip_Hop) Will Smith (/wiki/Will_Smith) (1997) Beastie Boys (/wiki/Beastie_Boys) (1998) Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) (1999-2003, 2010-2011, 2013, 2017) D12 (/wiki/D12) (2004) Snoop Dogg (/wiki/Snoop_Dogg) (2005) Kanye West (2006) Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) (2012-2015, 2018-2019, 2021-2023) Drake (/wiki/Drake_(musician)) (2016) Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) (2020) v t e MTV Video Music Award for Best Collaboration (/wiki/MTV_Video_Music_Award_for_Best_Collaboration) Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) and Shakira (/wiki/Shakira) (2007) Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) and Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2010) Katy Perry (/wiki/Katy_Perry) and Kanye West (2011) Pink (/wiki/Pink_(singer)) and Nate Ruess (/wiki/Nate_Ruess) (2013) Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) and Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) (2014) Taylor Swift (/wiki/Taylor_Swift) and Kendrick Lamar (/wiki/Kendrick_Lamar) (2015) Fifth Harmony (/wiki/Fifth_Harmony) and Ty Dolla Sign (/wiki/Ty_Dolla_Sign) (2016) Zayn (/wiki/Zayn_Malik) and Taylor Swift (/wiki/Taylor_Swift) (2017) Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) , DJ Khaled (/wiki/DJ_Khaled) and Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) (2018) Shawn Mendes (/wiki/Shawn_Mendes) and Camila Cabello (/wiki/Camila_Cabello) (2019) Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) and Ariana Grande (/wiki/Ariana_Grande) (2020) Doja Cat (/wiki/Doja_Cat) and SZA (/wiki/SZA) (2021) Lil Nas X (/wiki/Lil_Nas_X) and Jack Harlow (/wiki/Jack_Harlow) (2022) Karol G (/wiki/Karol_G) and Shakira (/wiki/Shakira) (2023) v t e MTV Video Music Award for Best Video with a Social Message (/wiki/MTV_Video_Music_Award_for_Best_Video_with_a_Social_Message) 2010s " Born This Way (/wiki/Born_This_Way_(song)) " by Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) (2011) " Skyscraper (/wiki/Skyscraper_(song)) " by Demi Lovato (/wiki/Demi_Lovato) (2012) " Same Love (/wiki/Same_Love) " by Macklemore & Ryan Lewis (/wiki/Macklemore_%26_Ryan_Lewis) featuring Mary Lambert (/wiki/Mary_Lambert_(singer)) (2013) " Pretty Hurts (/wiki/Pretty_Hurts) " by Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2014) " One Man Can Change the World (/wiki/One_Man_Can_Change_the_World) " by Big Sean (/wiki/Big_Sean) featuring Kanye West and John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) (2015) No award (2016) " Scars to Your Beautiful (/wiki/Scars_to_Your_Beautiful) " by Alessia Cara (/wiki/Alessia_Cara) / "Light" by Big Sean (/wiki/Big_Sean) featuring Jeremih (/wiki/Jeremih) / "Surefire" by John Legend (/wiki/John_Legend) / " Immigrants (We Get the Job Done) (/wiki/Yorktown_(The_World_Turned_Upside_Down)) " by K'naan (/wiki/K%27naan) , Snow Tha Product (/wiki/Snow_Tha_Product) , Riz Ahmed (/wiki/Riz_Ahmed) and Residente (/wiki/Residente) / " Black Spiderman (/wiki/Black_Spiderman) " by Logic (/wiki/Logic_(musician)) featuring Damian Lemar Hudson / "Stand Up/Stand N Rock #NoDAPL" by Taboo (/wiki/Taboo_(rapper)) featuring Shailene Woodley (/wiki/Shailene_Woodley) (2017) " This Is America (/wiki/This_Is_America_(song)) " by Childish Gambino (/wiki/Donald_Glover) (2018) " You Need to Calm Down (/wiki/You_Need_to_Calm_Down) " by Taylor Swift (/wiki/Taylor_Swift) (2019) 2020s " I Can't Breathe (/wiki/I_Can%27t_Breathe_(H.E.R._song)) " by H.E.R. (/wiki/H.E.R.) (2020) " Your Power (/wiki/Your_Power) " by Billie Eilish (/wiki/Billie_Eilish) (2021) " About Damn Time (/wiki/About_Damn_Time) " by Lizzo (/wiki/Lizzo) (2022) v t e NAACP Image Award for Outstanding New Artist (/wiki/NAACP_Image_Award_for_Outstanding_New_Artist) 1980s Whitney Houston (/wiki/Whitney_Houston) (1984) Vanessa Williams (/wiki/Vanessa_Williams) (1988) After 7 (/wiki/After_7) (1989) 1990s Boyz II Men (/wiki/Boyz_II_Men) (1991) Arrested Development (/wiki/Arrested_Development_(band)) (1992) Shai (/wiki/Shai_(band)) (1993) Brandy (/wiki/Brandy_Norwood) (1995) Kenny Lattimore (/wiki/Kenny_Lattimore) (1996) Erykah Badu (/wiki/Erykah_Badu) (1997) Lauryn Hill (/wiki/Lauryn_Hill) (1998) Eve (/wiki/Eve_(rapper)) (1999) 2000s Carl Thomas (/wiki/Carl_Thomas_(singer)) (2000) Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) (2001) Ashanti (/wiki/Ashanti_(singer)) (2002) Ruben Studdard (/wiki/Ruben_Studdard) (2003) Kanye West (2004) Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown) (2005) Corinne Bailey Rae (/wiki/Corinne_Bailey_Rae) (2006) Jordin Sparks (/wiki/Jordin_Sparks) (2007) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2008) Keri Hilson (/wiki/Keri_Hilson) (2009) 2010s Willow Smith (/wiki/Willow_Smith) (2010) Diggy Simmons (/wiki/Diggy_Simmons) (2011) Elle Varner (/wiki/Elle_Varner) (2012) K. Michelle (/wiki/K._Michelle) (2013) 3 Winans Brothers (2014) Jussie Smollett (/wiki/Jussie_Smollett) (2015) Chance the Rapper (/wiki/Chance_the_Rapper) (2016) SZA (/wiki/SZA) (2017) Ella Mai (/wiki/Ella_Mai) (2018) Lil Nas X (/wiki/Lil_Nas_X) (2019) 2020s Doja Cat (/wiki/Doja_Cat) (2020) Saweetie (/wiki/Saweetie) (2021) Coco Jones (/wiki/Coco_Jones) (2022) Victoria Monét (/wiki/Victoria_Mon%C3%A9t) (2023) v t e Sunday Service Choir (/wiki/Sunday_Service_Choir) Kanye West Tony Williams (/wiki/The_World_Famous_Tony_Williams) Ant Clemons (/wiki/Ant_Clemons) Studio albums Jesus Is Born (/wiki/Jesus_Is_Born) Songs " Every Hour (/wiki/Every_Hour) " " Selah (/wiki/Selah_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Everything We Need (/wiki/Everything_We_Need) " " Water (/wiki/Water_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Father Stretch (/wiki/Father_Stretch) " " Revelations 19:1 (/wiki/Revelations_19:1) " Ultralight Beam (/wiki/Ultralight_Beam_(Sunday_Service_Choir_song)) " " Wash Us in the Blood (/wiki/Wash_Us_in_the_Blood) " " Up from the Ashes (/wiki/Up_from_the_Ashes_(song)) " " 24 (/wiki/24_(Kanye_West_song)) " Related articles Jesus Is King (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King) Jesus Is King (film) (/wiki/Jesus_Is_King_(film)) Donda (/wiki/Donda_(album)) v t e Child Rebel Soldier (/wiki/Child_Rebel_Soldier) Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) Kanye West Lupe Fiasco (/wiki/Lupe_Fiasco) Singles " Us Placers (/wiki/Us_Placers) " Featured singles " Everyone Nose (All the Girls Standing in the Line for the Bathroom) (/wiki/Everyone_Nose_(All_the_Girls_Standing_in_the_Line_for_the_Bathroom)) " v t e GOOD Music (/wiki/GOOD_Music) Key people Kanye West (Founder) Pusha T (/wiki/Pusha_T) (President) Steven Victor (/wiki/Steven_Victor) (COO) Compilations Kanye West Presents GOOD Music: Cruel Summer (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(GOOD_Music_album)) Singles " Mercy (/wiki/Mercy_(Kanye_West_song)) " " Cold (/wiki/Cold_(Kanye_West_song)) " " New God Flow (/wiki/New_God_Flow) " " Clique (/wiki/Clique_(song)) " " Champions (/wiki/Champions_(GOOD_Music_song)) " Other songs " Don't Like (/wiki/I_Don%27t_Like#GOOD_Music_remix) " Related articles GOOD Fridays (/wiki/GOOD_Fridays) Cruel Summer (film) (/wiki/Cruel_Summer_(film)) Kids See Ghosts (/wiki/Kids_See_Ghosts) v t e Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) List of performances (/wiki/List_of_Kim_Kardashian_performances) Television Keeping Up with the Kardashians (/wiki/Keeping_Up_with_the_Kardashians) Kourtney and Kim Take Miami (/wiki/Kourtney_and_Kim_Take_Miami) Kourtney and Kim Take New York (/wiki/Kourtney_and_Kim_Take_New_York) The Kardashians (/wiki/The_Kardashians) Books Kardashian Konfidential (/wiki/Kardashian_Konfidential) Dollhouse (/wiki/Dollhouse_(book)) Selfish (/wiki/Selfish_(book)) Games Kim Kardashian: Hollywood (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian:_Hollywood) Songs " Jam (Turn It Up) (/wiki/Jam_(Turn_It_Up)) " Family (/wiki/Kardashian_family) Robert Kardashian (/wiki/Robert_Kardashian) (father) Kris Jenner (/wiki/Kris_Jenner) (mother) Kanye West (husband, div. ) North West (/wiki/North_West_(musician)) (daughter) Related articles Kim Kardashian, Superstar (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian,_Superstar) Kimoji (/wiki/Kimoji) Dash (/wiki/Dash_(boutique)) Dash Dolls (/wiki/Dash_Dolls) ShoeDazzle (/wiki/ShoeDazzle) Skims (/wiki/Skims) " Bound 2 (/wiki/Bound_2) " Category (/wiki/Category:Kim_Kardashian) v t e ( ← 2016 (/wiki/2016_United_States_presidential_election) ) 2020 United States presidential election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) ( 2024 → (/wiki/2024_United_States_presidential_election) ) Joe Biden (/wiki/Joe_Biden) , Kamala Harris (/wiki/Kamala_Harris) (D), 306 electoral votes ; Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) , Mike Pence (/wiki/Mike_Pence) (R), 232 electoral votes 2020 United States elections (/wiki/2020_United_States_elections) Polls national (/wiki/Nationwide_opinion_polling_for_the_2020_United_States_presidential_election) state (/wiki/Statewide_opinion_polling_for_the_2020_United_States_presidential_election) 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Protective head covering worn by baseball players This article is about batting helmets worn in baseball and softball. For batting and fielding helmets in cricket, see helmet (cricket) (/wiki/Helmet_(cricket)) . One-ear flap MLB (/wiki/Major_League_Baseball) batting helmet, 2011 Double ear flap youth batting helmet, 2015 Softball batting helmet with face mask, 2016 A batting helmet is worn by batters (/wiki/Batter_(baseball)) in the game of baseball (/wiki/Baseball) or softball (/wiki/Softball) . It is meant to protect the batter's head from errant pitches thrown by the pitcher (/wiki/Pitcher) . A batter who is " hit by pitch (/wiki/Hit_by_pitch) ," due to an inadvertent wild pitch (/wiki/Wild_pitch) or by intent (/wiki/Beanball) , may be seriously, even fatally, injured. Early concepts (1905–1920s) [ edit ] In 1905, Mogridge [1] (#cite_note-cyaprotectivegear-1) created the first crude protective headgear and was granted patent No. 780899 for a "head protector." This first attempt at a batting helmet was said to look like an "inflatable boxing glove that wrapped around the hitters head." [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) Roger Bresnahan (/wiki/Roger_Bresnahan) , Hall of Fame (/wiki/National_Baseball_Hall_of_Fame_and_Museum) catcher (/wiki/Catcher) who was injured after being struck in the head with a pitch, developed a leather batting helmet in 1908 which he began using. [1] (#cite_note-cyaprotectivegear-1) The helmets were not so much helmets as they were protective earmuffs. They did not protect the actual head of the batter but rather protected the ear and temple region. He also developed an aluminum protector for the back of the head that was covered in fake hair, but it is not known if it was ever used in the field. [3] (#cite_note-3) In 1908, Chicago White Sox (/wiki/Chicago_White_Sox) shortstop (/wiki/Shortstop) Freddy Parent (/wiki/Freddy_Parent) wore a head protector of some sort and Chicago Cubs (/wiki/Chicago_Cubs) ' first baseman (/wiki/First_baseman) - manager (/wiki/Manager_(baseball)) Frank Chance (/wiki/Frank_Chance) did the same thing in 1913, though Chance's headgear was "little more than a sponge wrapped in a bandage." [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) In 1914, minor leaguer Joe Bosk, playing for the Utica Utes (/wiki/Utica_Utes) , wore a protector after being severely injured when he was struck in the head by a pitch in 1911. [4] (#cite_note-4) Despite the fatal beaning of Ray Chapman (/wiki/Ray_Chapman) in 1920, protective headgear was still used only rarely in the major leagues. That year, a syndicated news article claimed several baseball executives—including New York Giants (/wiki/New_York_Giants_(NL)) secretary Frank McQuade—were trying to mandate the use of batting helmets. The article also asserted helmets were unpopular among players. [5] (#cite_note-5) The first known case of a manager issuing head protectors to his players on a large scale was Philadelphia Phillies (/wiki/Philadelphia_Phillies) ' manager Pat Moran (/wiki/Pat_Moran) who gave cork-cushioned hats to his players in 1921. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) Connie Mack (/wiki/Connie_Mack) , manager of the Philadelphia Athletics (/wiki/Philadelphia_Athletics) , voiced his support for protective headgear in 1921. [6] (#cite_note-6) Revived interest (1930s–1950s) [ edit ] A concept drawing of a batting helmet from 1920. That year, MLB player Ray Chapman (/wiki/Ray_Chapman) had been fatally struck in the head by a pitch. In 1936, Willie Wells, a Negro leagues (/wiki/Negro_leagues) player, was knocked unconscious with a pitch to the temple. Disregarding the doctor's advice, Willie Wells wore a modified construction hard hat as protective gear in a game the next day. [7] (#cite_note-7) After Mickey Cochrane (/wiki/Mickey_Cochrane) , a Hall of Fame catcher for the Detroit Tigers (/wiki/Detroit_Tigers) , suffered a career-ending and near-fatal skull fracture on May 25, 1937, on a pitch by New York Yankees (/wiki/New_York_Yankees) ' pitcher (/wiki/Pitcher) Bump Hadley (/wiki/Bump_Hadley) , there was a strong call for batter helmets. [8] (#cite_note-PM-8) Cochrane himself went on record saying that players should "absolutely" be required to wear protective helmets. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) Only one week after Cochrane's injury, on June 1, 1937, the Cleveland Indians (/wiki/Cleveland_Indians) and Philadelphia Athletics (/wiki/Philadelphia_Athletics) became the first teams to test helmets, using leather and polo helmets respectively. Managers of both teams decided to use batting practice as a test run for helmet use on their players, before a game between the two teams. Though there is picture evidence [8] (#cite_note-PM-8) of the polo helmets being worn in batting practice, there is no evidence of their being used or worn in a game. The first documented team to wear helmets in a game was the Des Moines Demons (/wiki/Des_Moines_Demons) of the Western League (/wiki/Western_League_(1900%E2%80%931958)) . [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) They also used polo helmets but the idea did not stick, as they only wore the helmets for one game. The first professional baseball league to fully adopt the baseball helmet was the International League (/wiki/International_League) , which did so in 1939 when the list of official equipment used began to include a "safety cap or helmet". Buster Mills (/wiki/Buster_Mills) was the first player in the league to use a helmet. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) The idea of making helmets a required part of Major League Baseball (/wiki/Major_League_Baseball) was discussed by officials of the National League (/wiki/National_League_(baseball)) in a meeting at the 1940 MLB All-Star Game (/wiki/1940_Major_League_Baseball_All-Star_Game) in Chicago. Ford Frick (/wiki/Ford_Frick) , president of the National League, showed the helmet he designed with the hopes that the league would adopt it. Frick told the Associated Press (/wiki/Associated_Press) , "[A batting helmet] is the only way I know that we can prevent head injuries and the only way we can make the players wear them is make it a league rule." [9] (#cite_note-9) Though the National League at this meeting did not adopt it, Jackie Hayes (/wiki/Jackie_Hayes_(second_baseman)) became the first player to wear the helmet in a game on August 22, 1940. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) Los Angeles sportswriter Bob Hunter (/wiki/Bob_Hunter_(Los_Angeles_sportswriter)) modeling a new baseball helmet in 1939. The helmet's design is similar to earmuffs (/wiki/Earmuffs) and fits over the baseball cap. In 1941, the National League adopted the use of a helmet, designed by George Bennett, a Johns Hopkins University (/wiki/Johns_Hopkins_University) brain surgeon, for use by all teams in spring training. On March 8, 1941, the Brooklyn Dodgers (/wiki/Brooklyn_Dodgers) announced that the team's players would be wearing the helmets during regular season games. On April 26, 1941, the Washington Senators (/wiki/History_of_the_Washington_Senators_(1901%E2%80%9360)) joined the Dodgers as the only two teams to fully adopt the batting helmet for regular season use. The New York Giants (/wiki/History_of_the_New_York_Giants_(NL)) on June 6 and the Chicago Cubs (/wiki/Chicago_Cubs) on June 24 also joined the list of teams to fully adopt the use of protective helmets during games. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) Though many thought this would be the time when support would be strong enough to develop widespread usage, again tradition won out, and it was not until 1953 that the Pittsburgh Pirates (/wiki/Pittsburgh_Pirates) mandated their players wear helmets. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) The helmet required by Pittsburgh General Manager (/wiki/General_Manager) Branch Rickey (/wiki/Branch_Rickey) (formerly the Dodgers general manager and president) was created by Charlie Muse and was based on the hard hats (/wiki/Hard_hat) used by miners. Soon after, the Ottawa Citizen (/wiki/Ottawa_Citizen) wrote that "Major League clubs are becoming quite interested in a new type of plastic protective cap which has been put on the market recently." This became even more prevalent when on August 1, 1954, Joe Adcock (/wiki/Joe_Adcock) , a first baseman for the Milwaukee Braves (/wiki/Milwaukee_Braves) , was struck with a pitch on his head. He was wearing a helmet and, though he was taken off the field on a stretcher, he was uninjured as his helmet took the brunt of the impact and was visibly dented. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) In the early 1950s, the governing body of Little League Baseball (/wiki/Little_League_Baseball) mandated the use of protective headgear during games for all players. In 1956 the National League followed suit and required the use of batting helmets by all players on all teams. After Little League Baseball announced a better helmet for the use of all players, the American League (/wiki/American_League) passed a rule on March 1, 1958, requiring all players to wear helmets. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) However, unlike in the National Hockey League (/wiki/National_Hockey_League) (NHL) of the same era, helmets were widely accepted. It was not until December 1970 [10] (#cite_note-10) that Major League Baseball enforced strictly mandatory use of the batting helmet for all batters. Veteran players, however, were allowed to choose to wear a helmet or not, as they were grandfathered (/wiki/Grandfathered) into the rule. The last Major League player to bat helmetless was Bob Montgomery (/wiki/Bob_Montgomery_(baseball)) , who last played for Boston Red Sox (/wiki/Boston_Red_Sox) in 1979 (/wiki/1979_Major_League_Baseball_season) , [1] (#cite_note-cyaprotectivegear-1) coincidentally the same year the NHL finally made helmets compulsory with a similar grandfather clause for veteran players. Modifications (1960–2000) [ edit ] Chicago Cubs (/wiki/Chicago_Cubs) player Jerry Kindall (/wiki/Jerry_Kindall) is photographed in 1961 wearing a batting helmet. In 1960, Jim Lemon (/wiki/Jim_Lemon) became the first player to wear the new Little League helmet in a Major League game. These helmets were made with earflaps on both sides and were capable of withstanding a ball traveling at up to 120 miles per hour (190 km/h). One month later, Jimmy Piersall (/wiki/Jimmy_Piersall) became the second player to wear the helmet in the Major Leagues. With the helmet being worn league wide in Major League Baseball, alterations began in 1961. On July 23, 1961, catcher Earl Battey (/wiki/Earl_Battey) was hit in the face with a pitch, fracturing a bone, and 10 days later returned to the field with a makeshift earflap to protect the injured area, though he only wore it for one game because he complained of difficulty seeing while wearing it. [2] (#cite_note-wezen-2) Tony Oliva (/wiki/Tony_Oliva) also wore a makeshift face protector during batting practice, as did the Twins' Jimmie Hall (/wiki/Jimmie_Hall) in the 1965 World Series (/wiki/1965_World_Series) . [11] (#cite_note-uni-watch-11) In 1964, the Phillies' Tony González (/wiki/Tony_Gonz%C3%A1lez_(baseball)) was the first to wear a batting helmet with a pre-molded earflap. Prior to this, earflaps had been improvised. González was in the league top-ten in hit by pitches and the special helmet was constructed for his use. [12] (#cite_note-12) Shortly after this, Major League Baseball adopted the use of a helmet with a pre-molded earflap. [11] (#cite_note-uni-watch-11) Ron Santo (/wiki/Ron_Santo) was also an early pioneer of wearing earflap helmets at the major league level, upon returning to action after having his left cheekbone fractured by a pitch in 1966. Although helmets with earflaps were common at the amateur levels in baseball, they were slow to gain popularity at the professional level. Some batters felt that seeing the earflap out of the corner of an eye was distracting. Tony Conigliaro (/wiki/Tony_Conigliaro) was wearing a helmet without an earflap when he was seriously injured by a pitch in August 1967. During the 1970 season, Brooks Robinson (/wiki/Brooks_Robinson) began using a batting helmet with an ear flap. He found the helmet's brim in addition to the earflap limited his visibility so he took a hacksaw (/wiki/Hacksaw) and removed most of the brim. Robinson would wear the modified helmet for the remainder of his career. [13] (#cite_note-uni-13) Robert Crow was a plastic and reconstructive surgeon working for the Atlanta Braves in the 1970s when he invented a device that could protect players who were coming back from facial injuries. He called it a "C-Flap" after his last name and what it protected — the cheek. The device could be attached to the ear flap of the standard helmet to offer the added protection. The device did not become mainstream until decades later and in the meantime, players tried various things for the same purpose. For example, in 1978, the Pirates Dave Parker (/wiki/Dave_Parker) wore a hockey mask at the plate after he broke his cheek and jaw bones in a collision at home plate. [14] (#cite_note-bare_url-14) This lasted only one game and Parker then tried to use a helmet with an attached two-bar football facemask. [14] (#cite_note-bare_url-14) He also tried a helmet with another football facemask, the Dungard 210 facemask, screwed into his helmet. Jack Clark (/wiki/Jack_Clark_(baseball)) of the San Francisco Giants (/wiki/San_Francisco_Giants) is photographed in 1983. That year, the MLB made it mandatory for batters to wear at least one ear protector on their batting helmet, like the one Clark is wearing. Other notable players to utilize non-C-flap modified batting helmet include Gary Roenicke (/wiki/Gary_Roenicke) (1979), Ellis Valentine (/wiki/Ellis_Valentine) (1980), Charlie Hayes (/wiki/Charlie_Hayes) (1994), and Otis Nixon (/wiki/Otis_Nixon) (1998). The first known player to wear the C-flap was Oakland A's (/wiki/Oakland_A%27s) catcher Terry Steinbach (/wiki/Terry_Steinbach) after breaking an orbital bone due to a freak pregame accident in May 1988. Steinbach had facial surgery and returned to action about a month later wearing a C-Flap. Other players would follow C-flap utilization, including David Justice (/wiki/David_Justice) , Kevin Seitzer (/wiki/Kevin_Seitzer) , Mike Devereaux (/wiki/Mike_Devereaux) , Marlon Byrd (/wiki/Marlon_Byrd) , Chase Headley (/wiki/Chase_Headley) , and Jason Heyward (/wiki/Jason_Heyward) . Heyward was the first player to begin wearing the C-flap permanently (2013) after enduring a facial injury, and Yadier Molina (/wiki/Yadier_Molina) (2016) was the first player to begin permanently wearing the C-flap to prevent a facial injury where he had not previously had one. In 1979, after taking a pitch to the face that required 25 stitches, Baltimore Orioles (/wiki/Baltimore_Orioles) player Gary Roenicke (/wiki/Gary_Roenicke) wore a modified helmet with the facemask of a football helmet attached. According to Roenicke, the Orioles trainers took the face mask from the helmet of Baltimore Colts (/wiki/Baltimore_Colts) quarterback (/wiki/Quarterback) Bert Jones (/wiki/Bert_Jones) and affixed to the batting helmet. Roenicke wore the modified helmet until 1981. [15] (#cite_note-15) In 1983, it was made mandatory for new players to use a helmet with at least one earflap. [16] (#cite_note-16) Players who were grandfathered in (/wiki/Grandfather_clause) could choose to wear a helmet without ear flaps, if they so desired. Players can choose to wear double earflap helmets in the major leagues; however, this is not mandatory. Tim Raines (/wiki/Tim_Raines) was the last player to wear a helmet without earflaps, during the 2002 season (/wiki/2002_Major_League_Baseball_season) . His flap-less Florida Marlins (/wiki/2002_Florida_Marlins_season) helmet is currently at the Baseball Hall of Fame. Gary Gaetti (/wiki/Gary_Gaetti) , who retired in the year 2000 (/wiki/2000_Major_League_Baseball_season) , plus Ozzie Smith (/wiki/Ozzie_Smith) and Tim Wallach (/wiki/Tim_Wallach) , who both retired in 1996 (/wiki/1996_Major_League_Baseball_season) , also wore flapless helmets until they retired. [17] (#cite_note-17) Julio Franco (/wiki/Julio_Franco) , who retired from baseball in May 2008, was the last active player eligible to wear a helmet without flaps, but he chose to wear a helmet with an earflap throughout his career. Some players, mostly switch hitters, also decide to wear double earflap helmets while batting. Players to do this include Willie McGee (/wiki/Willie_McGee) , Terry Pendleton (/wiki/Terry_Pendleton) , Vince Coleman (/wiki/Vince_Coleman_(baseball)) , Mark Bellhorn (/wiki/Mark_Bellhorn) , Shane Victorino (/wiki/Shane_Victorino) , Orlando Hudson (/wiki/Orlando_Hudson) , and Jed Lowrie (/wiki/Jed_Lowrie) (all of which are switch hitters). [18] (#cite_note-18) Recent developments (2000–present) [ edit ] Jason Heyward (/wiki/Jason_Heyward) wears a helmet with a protective guard during a 2016 game. Heyward started wearing the guard after being hit by a pitch in his face, which caused him to suffer a broken jaw. On April 8, 2004, celebrated as "Hank Aaron Day" in Atlanta because it is the 30th anniversary of Hank Aaron (/wiki/Hank_Aaron) 's record-breaking 715th home run, Braves (/wiki/2004_Atlanta_Braves_season) shortstop Rafael Furcal (/wiki/Rafael_Furcal) came to the plate in the sixth inning with a helmet without an earflap, as a tribute to Hank Aaron, who played his entire career in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, and therefore did not wear a helmet with an earflap during his playing career. Umpire (/wiki/Umpire_(baseball)) Bill Welke (/wiki/Bill_Welke) made him get one with a flap. [13] (#cite_note-uni-13) In 2005, Major League Baseball tested a new batting helmet for the first time in nearly three decades. At the All-Star Game in Detroit, players were seen wearing a new "molded crown" helmet that featured side vents, back vents and larger ear holes. [19] (#cite_note-19) The majority of players now wear these new helmets but some including Ryan Howard (/wiki/Ryan_Howard) stayed with the older style. The no-flap helmet is still utilized in baseball. Catchers often wear a flapless helmet along with a facemask to protect the head when receiving pitches. Occasionally, players other than catchers will wear a batting helmet without earflaps while playing a defensive position in the field (/wiki/Baseball_diamond) . This is usually done by a player who has a higher-than-normal risk of head injury. One example is former major-league player John Olerud (/wiki/John_Olerud) , who started doing so after undergoing emergency surgery for a cerebral aneurysm (/wiki/Cerebral_aneurysm) while attending Washington State University (/wiki/Washington_State_University) . An earlier example was Richie Allen (/wiki/Dick_Allen) , [ failed verification ] who decided to wear a helmet in the field after at least one incident of being hit by objects thrown by fans. [1] (#cite_note-cyaprotectivegear-1) Major League bat-boys (/wiki/Batboy) /bat-girls and ball boys (/wiki/Ball_boy) /ball girls are required to wear a helmet rather than a cap while performing their duties while on the field of play. They are allowed to use the no-flap helmet for this purpose, and many do. Following the 2007 death of Tulsa Drillers (/wiki/Tulsa_Drillers) first base coach Mike Coolbaugh (/wiki/Mike_Coolbaugh) after being hit by a batted ball, there has been debate as to whether base coaches should wear helmets. Following the incident, the Oakland Athletics (/wiki/Oakland_Athletics) ' Rene Lachemann (/wiki/Rene_Lachemann) decided to wear a helmet out to his third base coaching position. In 2008, it was made mandatory for on-field MLB coaches to wear helmets. Bo Porter (/wiki/Bo_Porter) , former coach for the Atlanta Braves (/wiki/Atlanta_Braves) , is photographed with an on-field helmet in 2015. After the 2007 season, Major League Baseball made it mandatory for coaches to wear helmets beginning with the 2008 season, [20] (#cite_note-20) although some coaches, such as the Los Angeles Dodgers (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Dodgers) ' Larry Bowa (/wiki/Larry_Bowa) , have disagreed with the decision. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2009, Major League Baseball decided to take action and protect players from the increasing number of concussions and head injuries. [22] (#cite_note-bare_url_a-22) Rawlings came out with the S100 baseball helmet, named for its impact capabilities. It was able to withstand the impact of a baseball traveling at 100 miles per hour (160 km/h) from 2 feet (0.6 m) away. [23] (#cite_note-nytimes-23) The other baseball helmets used are only required to withstand a 70 miles per hour (110 km/h) impact from 2 feet (0.6 m) away. [24] (#cite_note-24) The first Major League Player to wear this helmet during a game was Canadian-born Ryan Dempster (/wiki/Ryan_Dempster) , a pitcher with the Chicago Cubs. [22] (#cite_note-bare_url_a-22) The new helmet did not catch on because the players said it made them look like bobbleheads (/wiki/Bobblehead_doll) . Some players, including Mets third baseman David Wright (/wiki/David_Wright_(baseball)) , did decide to use the helmet while batting. [23] (#cite_note-nytimes-23) In 2013, per the new MLB-MLBPA Collective Bargaining Agreement, MLB players were required to wear the new Rawlings S100 Pro Comp. [25] (#cite_note-25) In 2018, several Major League Baseball players including Mike Trout (/wiki/Mike_Trout) and Bryce Harper (/wiki/Bryce_Harper) began wearing the C-flap, an attachment to the earflap covering the jaw, invented by Markwort. The C-flap has caught on quickly throughout Major League Baseball and now batting helmet manufacturers such as Rawlings and Easton have begun producing helmets with a built-in earflap extension emulating the C-flap. On May 28, 2018, Philadelphia Phillies slugger Rhys Hoskins (/wiki/Rhys_Hoskins) fractured his jaw when he fouled a ball off his own face against the Los Angeles Dodgers. Hoskins, 25, was given a choice: miss four to six weeks or return after 10 days on the disabled list with a C-Flap on both sides for complete armament. Hoskins opted to return early with the double-C-Flap look, and just 12 days later, Hoskins made his return from the disabled list. [ citation needed ] Currently, all leagues up to and including Minor League Baseball (/wiki/Minor_League_Baseball) require the use of a double earflap batting helmet, with certain state amateur leagues being one exception (e.g., South Dakota Amateur Baseball Association). In Major League Baseball, however, only one earflap is required (for the ear closest to the pitcher). [ citation needed ] Batting helmet variations Zach Vincej (/wiki/Zach_Vincej) with a clear facemask on his batting helmet, 2010 A youth softball helmet with a face mask, 2016 In 2016, Giancarlo Stanton (/wiki/Giancarlo_Stanton) wore a batting helmet with a wire facemask. Cesar Diaz in a standard Minor League Baseball (/wiki/Minor_League_Baseball) batting helmet, 2017 Austin Meadows (/wiki/Austin_Meadows) wearing a standard MLB batting helmet with a face protector, 2019 Hisayoshi Chōno (/wiki/Hisayoshi_Ch%C5%8Dno) wearing a standard NPB (/wiki/Nippon_Professional_Baseball) batting helmet, 2019 See also [ edit ] Baseball portal (/wiki/Portal:Baseball) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Baseball clothing and equipment (/wiki/Baseball_clothing_and_equipment) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Baseball Batting Helmets - A History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120426035339/http://www.cyaprotectivegear.com/Blog/BlogEntries/BaseballBattingHelmets-AHistory.aspx?Page=114&) Sports Safety Blog , September 2009 ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l "Searching for the History of the Batting Helmet" (http://www.wezen-ball.com/2010-articles/march/searching-for-the-history-of-the-batting-helmet.html) Wezen Ball - A Baseball Blog , March 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-3) "New Headgear for Baseball Players" (https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn91064009/1908-02-05/ed-1/seq-7/#date1=1789&index=13&rows=20&words=BASEBALL+HEADGEAR&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1963&proxtext=baseball+headgear&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1) . The Star and Newark Advertiser . 5 February 1908. p. 7 . Retrieved 25 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Morris, Peter (2010). A Game of Inches - The Story Behind the Innovations that Shaped Baseball . Chicago, Ill.: Ivan R. Dee (member of the Rowman and Littlefield Publishing Group). p. 304. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-56663-853-1 . Retrieved 23 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Will Batters Some Day Wear Headgears Like This?" (https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042354/1920-08-28/ed-1/seq-8/#date1=1920&index=13&rows=20&words=Batters+Headgears&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1922&proxtext=batters+headgear&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1) . Evening Star . Washington, D.C. 28 August 1920. p. 8 . Retrieved 25 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Connie For Headgear" (https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn87055779/1921-05-27/ed-1/seq-10/#date1=1789&index=1&rows=20&words=baseball+headgear+HEADGEAR&searchType=basic&sequence=0&state=&date2=1963&proxtext=baseball+headgear&y=0&x=0&dateFilterType=yearRange&page=1) . South Bend News-Times . 27 May 1921. p. 10 . Retrieved 25 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "5 innovations adopted from the Negro Leagues" (https://www.mlb.com/news/negro-league-innovations-adopted-by-mlb) . MLB.com (/wiki/MLB.com) . ^ Jump up to: a b "Helmet for Baseball Batters is Urged as Safety Measure" (https://books.google.com/books?id=rNoDAAAAMBAJ&q=Popular+Science+1935+plane+%22Popular+Mechanics%22&pg=PA390) . Popular Mechanics . 68 (3): 390. July 1937 . Retrieved 23 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Frick Favors Batters Helmet" (https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=d&d=SPNP19400626.2.114&srpos=48&e=-------en--20--41--txt-txIN-baseball+helmet-------1) . San Pedro News Pilot . Vol. 13, no. 97. Associated Press. 26 June 1940. p. 7 . Retrieved 25 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Baseball Committee Set Rules", Schenectady Gazette (/wiki/Schenectady_Gazette) ; December 2, 1970; p. 54 ^ Jump up to: a b "The Ear-flap Chronicles Continued" (https://www.uni-watch.com/2011/08/29/new-evidence-of-earliest-baseball-batting-helmet-and-earflap/) Uni-Watch Blog , August 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-12) Paul Lukas (2010-02-02). "There's No Service Like Wire Service, Vol. 3" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100205185312/http://www.uniwatchblog.com/2010/02/02/theres-no-service-like-wire-service-vol-3/) . Uni Watch Blog . Archived from the original (http://www.uniwatchblog.com/2010/02/02/theres-no-service-like-wire-service-vol-3/) on 5 February 2010 . Retrieved 2010-02-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b Lucas, Paul (22 April 2015). "Alex Torres and the history of headgear in baseball" (https://www.espn.com/mlb/story/_/id/12741917/uni-watch-history-headgear-mlb-alex-torres) . ESPN.com (Uni Watch) . Retrieved 26 October 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Aggh! It's Dave Parker at the Plate" (https://www.espn.com/espn/page2/story?page=lukas/080724) ESPN.com: Page 2, July 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-15) Klingman, Mike (7 July 2009). "Catching Up With ... former Oriole Gary Roenicke" (https://www.baltimoresun.com/bs-mtblog-2009-07-he_still_has_the_wild-story.html) . Baltimore Sun . Baltimore, Maryland . Retrieved 26 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Street, Jim. "Safe at home plate" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150214075256/http://m.mlb.com/news/article/1437111) . Major League Baseball Advanced Media (/wiki/Major_League_Baseball_Advanced_Media) . Archived from the original (http://m.mlb.com/news/article/1437111/) on February 14, 2015 . Retrieved September 15, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "La Point of It All"; in Newsday (/wiki/Newsday) ; April 11, 1993; p. 07 ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Orlando Hudson Batting Helmet" (http://www.alright-hamilton.com/2010/02/orlando-hudsons-batting-helmet.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120426035339/http://www.alright-hamilton.com/2010/02/orlando-hudsons-batting-helmet.html) April 26, 2012, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) in Alright Hamilton! , February 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-19) ""MLB midseason fashion report" (https://www.espn.com/espn/page2/story?page=lukas/050714&num=0) ESPN.com: p. 2, July 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-20) "MLB GMs: Base coaches must wear helmets in 2008" (https://www.usatoday.com/sports/baseball/2007-11-08-base-coaches_N.htm) in USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) , November 11, 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Larry Bowa will not wear your stupid helmet" (https://sports.yahoo.com/mlb/blog/big_league_stew/post/Larry-Bowa-will-not-wear-your-stupid-helmet?urn=mlb,69358) in USA Today , February 29, 2008 ^ Jump up to: a b "Better to look good than feel good?" (https://www.espn.com/espn/page2/story?page=lukas/090831&sportCat=mlb) ESPN.com: Page 2 , August 2009 ^ Jump up to: a b "Wright Will Be Wearing New Helmet" (https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/30/sports/baseball/30helmet.html) ; The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , August 2009 ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Safe Batting Helmet Draws Resistance From Some Players' (https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/13/sports/baseball/13helmet.html) The New York Times , August 2009 ^ (#cite_ref-25) "MLB Players to Debut New Rawlings S100 Pro Comp™ Batting Helmet This Season" (http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/mlb-players-to-debut-new-rawlings-s100-pro-comp-batting-helmet-this-season-146991495.html) PRNewswire , April 2012 v t e Helmets (/wiki/Helmet) Individual historical helmets Agighiol (/wiki/Helmet_of_Agighiol) Agris (/wiki/Agris_Helmet) Benty Grange (/wiki/Benty_Grange_helmet) Broe (/wiki/Broe_helmet) Canterbury (/wiki/Canterbury_helmet) Ciumeşti (/wiki/Celts_in_Transylvania#Helmet_of_Ciumeşti) Coppergate (/wiki/Coppergate_Helmet) Coțofenești (/wiki/Helmet_of_Co%C8%9Bofene%C8%99ti) Coventry Sallet (/wiki/Coventry_Sallet) Crosby Garrett (/wiki/Crosby_Garrett_Helmet) Emesa (/wiki/Emesa_helmet) Gevninge (/wiki/Gevninge_helmet_fragment) Gjermundbu (/wiki/Gjermundbu_helmet) Guilden Morden (/wiki/Guilden_Morden_boar) Guisborough (/wiki/Guisborough_Helmet) Hallaton (/wiki/Hallaton_Helmet) Hellvi (/wiki/Hellvi_helmet_eyebrow) Henry VIII's Horned (/wiki/Horned_helmet_of_Henry_VIII) Horncastle (/wiki/Horncastle_boar%27s_head) Iron Gates (/wiki/Helmet_of_Iron_Gates) Lokrume (/wiki/Lokrume_helmet_fragment) Meyrick (/wiki/Meyrick_Helmet) Nemiya (/wiki/Nemiya_Helmet) Newstead (/wiki/Newstead_Helmet) Nijmegen (/wiki/Nijmegen_Helmet) Peretu (/wiki/Helmet_of_Peretu) Pioneer (/wiki/Pioneer_Helmet) Ribchester (/wiki/Ribchester_Helmet) Shorwell (/wiki/Shorwell_helmet) Staffordshire (/wiki/Staffordshire_helmet) Sutton Hoo (/wiki/Sutton_Hoo_helmet) Tjele (/wiki/Tjele_helmet_fragment) Veksø (/wiki/Veks%C3%B8_helmets) Venetian (/wiki/S%C3%BCleyman_the_Magnificent%27s_Venetian_Helmet) Waterloo (/wiki/Waterloo_Helmet) Witcham Gravel (/wiki/Witcham_Gravel_helmet) Yarm (/wiki/Yarm_helmet) Combat (/wiki/Combat_helmet) Ancient Attic (/wiki/Attic_helmet) Boar's tusk (/wiki/Boar%27s_tusk_helmet) Boeotian (/wiki/Boeotian_helmet) Chalcidian (/wiki/Chalcidian_helmet) Coolus (/wiki/Coolus_helmet) Corinthian (/wiki/Corinthian_helmet) Galea (/wiki/Galea_(helmet)) Illyrian (/wiki/Illyrian_type_helmet) Imperial (/wiki/Imperial_helmet) Kegelhelm (/wiki/Kegelhelm) Konos (/wiki/Konos) Late Roman ridge (/wiki/Late_Roman_ridge_helmet) Montefortino (/wiki/Montefortino_helmet) Negau (/wiki/Negau_helmet) Phrygian (/wiki/Phrygian_helmet) Pilos (/wiki/Pileus_(hat)) Shmarjet (/wiki/Shmarjet) Medieval and Early Modern Armet (/wiki/Armet) Aventail (/wiki/Aventail) Barbute (/wiki/Barbute) Bascinet (/wiki/Bascinet) Burgonet (/wiki/Burgonet) Cervelliere (/wiki/Cervelliere) Close (/wiki/Close_helmet) Dragoon (/wiki/Dragoon_helmet) Enclosed (/wiki/Enclosed_helmet) Falling buffe (/wiki/Falling_buffe) Frog-mouth (/wiki/Frog-mouth_helm) Germanic boar (/wiki/Germanic_boar_helmet) Great (/wiki/Great_helm) Hounskull (/wiki/Bascinet#Hounskull) Jingasa (/wiki/Jingasa) Kabuto (/wiki/Kabuto) Katapu (/wiki/Katapu) Kettle (/wiki/Kettle_hat) Kulah khud (/wiki/Kulah_khud) Lamellenhelm (/wiki/Lamellenhelm) Lobster-tailed pot (/wiki/Lobster-tailed_pot_helmet) Mempo (/wiki/Men-yoroi) Morion (/wiki/Morion_(helmet)) Nasal (/wiki/Nasal_helmet) Paseki (/wiki/Paseki) Pickelhaube (/wiki/Pickelhaube) Sallet (/wiki/Sallet) Secrete (/wiki/Secrete_(helmet)) Spangenhelm (/wiki/Spangenhelm) Takula tofao (/wiki/Takula_tofao) Turban (/wiki/Turban_helmet) Viking (/wiki/Viking_Age_arms_and_armour#Helmet) Late Modern Dragoon (/wiki/Dragoon_helmet) Pickelhaube (/wiki/Pickelhaube) Pith helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet) Tarleton helmet (/wiki/Tarleton_helmet) 1914–1945 Adrian (/wiki/Adrian_helmet) Brodie (/wiki/Brodie_helmet) M36 (Bulgaria) (/wiki/Bulgarian_M36_helmet) M32 (Czechoslovakia) (/wiki/Czechoslovakian_M32_helmet) M1923 (Denmark) (/wiki/M1923_helmet_(Denmark)) Stahlhelm (Germany) (/wiki/Stahlhelm) M1934/39 (Greece) (/wiki/Greek_M1934/39_helmet) Helmet Steel Airborne Troop (/wiki/Helmet_Steel_Airborne_Troop) M33 (Italy) (/wiki/M33_helmet) M42 Duperite (/wiki/M42_Duperite_helmet) M1 (/wiki/M1_helmet) M1C (/wiki/M1C_helmet) Mk II talker helmet (/wiki/US_Navy_Mk_II_talker_helmet) Mk III (/wiki/Mk_III_helmet) Netherlands M34 (/wiki/Netherlands_M34) Hełm wz. 31 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._31) M1940 (Portugal) (/wiki/Portuguese_M1940_helmet) RAC (/wiki/RAC_helmet) SSh-36 (/wiki/SSh-36) SSh-39 and SSh-40 (/wiki/SSh-39_and_SSh-40) M1921 (Spain) (/wiki/M1921_helmet_(Spain)) M1926 (Spain) (/wiki/M1926_helmet_(Spain)) M1934 (Spain) (/wiki/M1934_helmet_(Spain)) M1942 Modelo Z (/wiki/M1942_Modelo_Z) SSK 90 (/wiki/SSK_90_helmet) M1926 (Sweden) (/wiki/M1926_helmet_(Sweden)) M1937 (Sweden) (/wiki/M1937_helmet_(Sweden)) L'Eplattenier (/wiki/L%27Eplattenier_helmet) M1918 (Switzerland) (/wiki/Swiss_M1918_Helmet) Type 92 Tetsubo (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Imperial_Japanese_Army) 1945–1980 Bangtan Helmet (/wiki/Bangtan_Helmet) CABAL II (/wiki/CABAL_II) Czechoslovak Vz. 53 Helmet (/wiki/Czechoslovak_Vz._53_Helmet) GK80 (/wiki/GK80) Hungarian M70 (/wiki/Hungarian_M70) Romanian M73 helmet (/wiki/Romanian_M73_helmet) JK 96 (/wiki/JK_96_helmet) Mº 44 E.T.A. (/wiki/M%C2%BA_44_E.T.A._de_Paracaidista) M59/85 (/wiki/M59/85) Hełm wz. 50 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._50) Hełm wz. 63 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._63) Hełm wz. 67 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._67) M63 (/wiki/M63_helmet) M76 Para (/wiki/M76_paratrooper_helmet) Mk IV (/wiki/Mk_IV_helmet) Mk 6 (/wiki/Mk_6_helmet) Modèle 1951 (/wiki/Mod%C3%A8le_1951_helmet) Modèle 1978 (/wiki/Mod%C3%A8le_1978_helmet) MPC-1 (/wiki/MPC-1) OR-201 (/wiki/OR-201) Paratrooper (/wiki/Paratrooper_helmet) SSh-60 (/wiki/SSh-60) SSh-68 (/wiki/SSh-68) Swiss M71 (/wiki/Swiss_M1971_Helmet) Type 66 (/wiki/Type_66_helmet) 1980–2000 CG634 (/wiki/CG634) M92 (/wiki/Gefechtshelm_M92) GOLFO (/wiki/GOLFO) M90 (Iraq) (/wiki/Iraqi_M90_helmet) M59/85 (/wiki/M59/85) M87 (/wiki/M87_kevlar_helmet) PASGT (/wiki/Personnel_Armor_System_for_Ground_Troops) Hełm wz. 93 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._93) Hełm wz. 2000 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._2000) Sfera (/wiki/Sfera_(helmet)) SPECTRA (/wiki/SPECTRA_helmet) 6B7 (/wiki/6B7_helmet) 2001–present A2 Helmet (/wiki/A2_Helmet) Advanced Combat Helmet (/wiki/Advanced_Combat_Helmet) BK-3 helmet (/wiki/BK-3_helmet) QGF-03 (/wiki/QGF-03) ECH (Australia) (/wiki/Enhanced_Combat_Helmet_(Australia)) ECH (US) (/wiki/Enhanced_Combat_Helmet_(United_States)) FAST (/wiki/Future_Assault_Shell_Technology_helmet) 6B47 (/wiki/6B47_helmet) Hełm wz. 2005 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._2005) IHPS (/wiki/Integrated_Head_Protection_System) KH-B2000 (/wiki/KH-B2000) Lightweight Helmet (/wiki/Lightweight_Helmet) MICH (/wiki/Modular_Integrated_Communications_Helmet) Mk 7 (/wiki/Mk_7_helmet) Athletic Batting Coolflo (/wiki/Coolflo) Boxing / Martial Arts (/wiki/Headgear_(martial_arts)) Bicycle (/wiki/Bicycle_helmet) Cricket (/wiki/Cricket_helmet) Equestrian (/wiki/Equestrian_helmet) Gridiron football (/wiki/Football_helmet) Eyeshield (/wiki/Eyeshield) Revolution (/wiki/Revolution_helmets) Hockey (/wiki/Hockey_helmet) Lacrosse (/wiki/Lacrosse_helmet) Motorcycle (/wiki/Motorcycle_helmet) Racing (/wiki/Racing_helmet) Scrum cap (/wiki/Scrum_cap) Ski 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Casual Western dress code For the albums, see Business Casual (Beep Beep album) (/wiki/Business_Casual_(Beep_Beep_album)) and Business Casual (Chromeo album) (/wiki/Business_Casual_(Chromeo_album)) . Example of business casual, in masculine and feminine manner. German politician Ralf Stegner (/wiki/Ralf_Stegner) with bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) in dark navy blazer (/wiki/Blazer) with blue shirt and khaki (/wiki/Khaki) trousers Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Business casual is an ambiguously defined Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) that is generally considered casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) but with smart (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/smart#English) (in the sense of "well dressed") components of a proper lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) from traditional informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) , adopted for white-collar (/wiki/White-collar_worker) workplaces. This interpretation typically including dress shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) and trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , but worn with an odd-coloured blazer (/wiki/Blazer) or a sports coat (/wiki/Sports_coat) instead. Neck ties are optional in this category. Acceptance of business casual in the United States (/wiki/United_States) was preceded by Casual Fridays (/wiki/Casual_Friday) which originated in California (/wiki/California) in the 1990s, in turn inspired by the Hawaiian (/wiki/Hawaii) 1960s casual custom of Aloha Friday (/wiki/Aloha_Friday) . [1] (#cite_note-BrownArthur2002-1) [2] (#cite_note-HopeTozian2002-2) The designation of particular clothing pieces as "business casual" may be contentious. Definition [ edit ] There is no generally agreed definition of "business casual". One definition of business casual states that it includes khaki (/wiki/Khaki) pants, slacks (/wiki/Slacks) , and skirts (/wiki/Skirts) , as well as short-sleeved polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) and long-sleeved shirts, but excludes tight or short skirts, T-shirts, and sweatshirts. [3] (#cite_note-Interviewing-3) Another source, an American university careers service, states that business casual consists of neutral colors more towards the dark shades of black, gray, navy, but can include white and off white, and reminds that the clothing should be pressed and have clean, crisp seams. [4] (#cite_note-Virginia_Polytechnic_Institute_and_State_University-4) The "Dress for Success" advice from the University of Toronto (/wiki/University_of_Toronto) sums up business casual as "a classic, clean cut, and put together look where a full suit is not required," which means slacks, khakis, or skirts; blouses (/wiki/Blouse) , polo shirts, or shirts with collar but no necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ; some sweaters (/wiki/Sweaters) ; and closed-toe shoes. [5] (#cite_note-UTM-5) The Canadian university ends with the warning that "it is not clothing you would wear to a club or for athletic purposes.... Don’t let the word casual mislead you. You still need to look professional." [5] (#cite_note-UTM-5) Another author wrote in the Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) that "Ordinarily business casual for guys seems fairly clear. It is a pair of chinos (/wiki/Chinos) , a blazer (/wiki/Blazer) and a good shirt, no tie." [6] (#cite_note-6) A BBC (/wiki/BBC) article in 2011 suggested that a "safe global standard" consists of "a button down shirt," "jackets or blazers, khaki or gray slacks, and leather shoes." [7] (#cite_note-BBC-2011-7) It warned, however, that great variation exists between countries and regions within countries. [7] (#cite_note-BBC-2011-7) A U.S. menswear retailer advises men to wear a collared shirt, chinos, navy blazer, and brown shoes, while making sure to look "clean and well-groomed." [8] (#cite_note-8) A contributor to Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) asked her Facebook friends to define business casual, and found a slightly more casual apparent consensus not forcibly including a jacket: "For men: trousers/khakis and a shirt with a collar. For women: trousers/knee-length skirt and a blouse or shirt with a collar. No jeans. No athletic wear." A response to that was "I disagree. No khakis." She states that "there’s a lack of consensus in what actually defines a business casual wardrobe. All most people know is they don’t want to see too much of a colleague’s body, including feet." [9] (#cite_note-9) See also [ edit ] Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-BrownArthur2002_1-0) Brown & Arthur 2002, p. 78-79. ^ (#cite_ref-HopeTozian2002_2-0) Hope & Tozian 2000, p. 45. ^ (#cite_ref-Interviewing_3-0) "Interviewing | Career Services Center | Marquette University" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130906180709/http://www.marquette.edu//csc/undergraduate/interviewing.shtml) . Marquette University Career Services Center . Archived from the original (http://www.marquette.edu/csc/undergraduate/interviewing.shtml) on 6 September 2013 . Retrieved 26 September 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Virginia_Polytechnic_Institute_and_State_University_4-0) "Business casual attire" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140313125835/http://www.career.vt.edu/JobSearchGuide/BusinessCasualAttire.html#ATTIREMENWOMEN) . Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University. Archived from the original (http://www.career.vt.edu/JobSearchGuide/BusinessCasualAttire.html#ATTIREMENWOMEN) on 13 March 2014 . Retrieved 12 March 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Business formal/professional or business casual?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150202061144/http://www.utm.utoronto.ca/careers/business-formal-professional-or-business-casual) . University of Toronto Mississauga (/wiki/University_of_Toronto_Mississauga) . Archived from the original (http://www.utm.utoronto.ca/careers/business-formal-professional-or-business-casual) on 2 February 2015 . Retrieved 28 January 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Shrimsley, Robert (3 June 2011). "Why business casual makes me smart" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131203021600/http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/5eec3cd6-8bf2-11e0-854c-00144feab49a.html#axzz2kbppAQhD) . Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) . Archived from the original (https://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/5eec3cd6-8bf2-11e0-854c-00144feab49a.html#axzz2kbppAQhD) on 3 December 2013 . Retrieved 14 November 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b McGinnis, Chris (22 November 2011). " (https://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20111118-business-casual-attire-around-the-world) 'Business casual' attire around the world" (https://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20111118-business-casual-attire-around-the-world) . BBC Business . BBC (/wiki/BBC) . Retrieved 28 January 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "10 Tips for Today's Business Casual Wardrobe" (https://www.paulfredrick.com/blogs/news/10-tips-for-todays-business-casual-wardrobe) . Fleetwood: Paul Fredrick. 25 May 2010 . Retrieved 11 November 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Sylvestre-Williams, Renee (9 May 2012). "What is Business Casual?" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/reneesylvestrewilliams/2012/05/09/what-is-business-casual/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . 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Italian enterprise and fashion house For other uses, see Fendi (disambiguation) (/wiki/Fendi_(disambiguation)) . Fendi Srl Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (/wiki/Palazzo_della_Civilt%C3%A0_Italiana) , Fendi headquarters in Rome Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded 1925 ; 99 years ago ( 1925 ) Founders Adele and Edoardo Fendi Headquarters Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana Quadrato della Concordia 3 00144 Rome (/wiki/Rome) Italy 41°50′13″N 12°27′55″E / 41.83689°N 12.46521°E / 41.83689; 12.46521 Number of locations 277 stores worldwide (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Fendi_locations-1) Key people Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) ( Group CEO (/wiki/Group_CEO) ) Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou ( CEO (/wiki/CEO) ) [2] (#cite_note-2) Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) ( Artistic Director (/wiki/Artistic_Director) ) Silvia Venturini Fendi ( Artistic Director (/wiki/Artistic_Director) ) [3] (#cite_note-3) Delfina Delettrez Fendi (/wiki/Delfina_Delettrez_Fendi) ( Artistic Director (/wiki/Artistic_director) ) [4] (#cite_note-4) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) Website www (https://www.fendi.com/) .fendi (https://www.fendi.com/) .com (https://www.fendi.com/) Fendi shop at the Elements, Union Square, Kowloon (/wiki/Kowloon) Fendi ( Italian pronunciation: [ˈfɛndi] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ) is an Italian (/wiki/Culture_of_Italy) luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house producing fur, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, fragrances, eyewear, timepieces and accessories. Founded in Rome (/wiki/Rome) in 1925 by Edoardo Fendi and Adele Casagrande, [5] (#cite_note-5) Fendi is known for its fur, fur accessories, and leather goods. Since 2001, Fendi has been part of the “Fashion & Leather Goods” division of the French group LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) . Its headquarters are in Rome, in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (/wiki/Palazzo_della_Civilt%C3%A0_Italiana) . [6] (#cite_note-6) History [ edit ] Early years [ edit ] The house of Fendi was launched in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi (1904–1954) as a fur and leather shop in Via del Plebiscito, Rome. [7] (#cite_note-LBM_2012-7) In 1932 Adele and Edoardo Fendi opened a boutique in via Piave; the shop became a popular destination for tourists in Rome. [8] (#cite_note-corriere-8) In 1946, the five sisters Paola, Anna (/wiki/Anna_Fendi) , Franca, Carla (/wiki/Carla_Fendi) , and Alda joined the company in its second generation as a family-owned enterprise, [9] (#cite_note-fragrantica-9) each owning 20 percent. [10] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-10) Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) joined Fendi in 1965 [11] (#cite_note-11) and became the creative director (/wiki/Creative_director) for the fur and women's ready-to-wear collections (launched in 1977). [12] (#cite_note-12) In 1966, Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) created the company logo, [13] (#cite_note-13) a double F in a square, which would later be the subject of various reinterpretations. Also in 1966, Fendi presented its first high fashion collection, expanding its interests in the United States and Japan. In 1969, its first commercial line of fur was launched, and in the following years, cosmetics and men's accessories were released. In 1977, Fendi introduced clothing for the first time, its ready-to-wear collection. [14] (#cite_note-rewind-14) 1980s–1990s [ edit ] In the 1980s, Fendi expanded its range with perfumes in 1985, [8] (#cite_note-corriere-8) as well as eyewear, jeans, and home furnishings in 1987. [15] (#cite_note-wwd.com-15) In 1989, Fendi opened its first United States boutique in New York on 5th Avenue. By 1994, fashion operations were responsible for 90 percent of the firm's total revenue, of which 50 percent came from leather goods and accessories, 20 percent from apparel and 20 percent from furs. [16] (#cite_note-Fast_Forward_At_Fendi-16) That year, Paola Fendi handed over the presidency of the company to her younger sister Carla. [17] (#cite_note-17) Silvia Venturini Fendi, daughter of Anna, also joined the fashion house in 1994 and has since been the artistic director for accessories and co-designer of the women's line alongside Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) ; in 1997 she designed the Baguette Bag (/wiki/Baguette_(bag)) , an iconic model that beat all sales and notoriety records. [14] (#cite_note-rewind-14) Sale of controlling share [ edit ] Fendi was a family-controlled company until 1999, when Prada (/wiki/Prada) and LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) , the world's biggest luxury goods group, joined to buy 51 percent of Fendi for $545 million; competitor Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) lost out in the bidding process. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) Under the deal, Prada and LVMH were obligated to acquire any of the 49 percent of Fendi, should the sisters decide to sell. [10] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-10) The label lost approximately 20 million euros in 2001 and again in 2002. [20] (#cite_note-Tracie_Rozhon_2003-20) In 2002, Prada agreed to sell its 25.5 percent stake to LVMH for $265 million. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2002, LVMH acquired an additional 15.9 percent of the company. [22] (#cite_note-22) Carla Fendi, a member of the founding family, continued to act as chairwoman and a minority owner until 2008. [20] (#cite_note-Tracie_Rozhon_2003-20) On 19 October 2007, Fendi chose the Great Wall of China (/wiki/Great_Wall_of_China) to present its spring-summer collection and with 88 models, the first fashion show there. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-25) In 2009, Silvia Venturini Fendi created the Peekaboo bag, achieving a success comparable to the Baguette Bag (/wiki/Baguette_(bag)) . [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) 2010s [ edit ] Fendi Christmas installation in Taipei (/wiki/Taipei) , Taiwan, 2017 In 2015, Fendi celebrated fifty years of business with Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) and organized its first haute couture fashion show dedicated to furs, Haute Fourrure , at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées (/wiki/Th%C3%A9%C3%A2tre_des_Champs-%C3%89lys%C3%A9es) in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) Later the brand celebrated its 90th anniversary with a fashion show at the Trevi fountain (/wiki/Trevi_Fountain) in Rome [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) and planned to move its headquarters to Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (/wiki/Palazzo_della_Civilt%C3%A0_Italiana) , [32] (#cite_note-32) paying 2.8 million euros per annum to occupy the space; [33] (#cite_note-33) Fendi instead opened a hotel and its largest store at the location in 2016. [34] (#cite_note-34) In 2017, Fendi collaborated with Rimowa (/wiki/Rimowa) on an aluminum multiwheel suitcase. [35] (#cite_note-35) Also in 2017, Fendi released a customization shop in collaboration with e-commerce platform Farfetch (/wiki/Farfetch) for made-to-order handbag designs. [36] (#cite_note-36) By 2018, Fendi crossed the 1 billion euro ($1.2 billion) threshold in annual sales [37] (#cite_note-reuters.com-37) and had 3,000 employees worldwide, including around 400 in specialist leather and fur ateliers in Italy, and operated a network of 215 stores. [37] (#cite_note-reuters.com-37) Recent developments [ edit ] In September 2020, English designer Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) was announced as artistic director of Fendi's women's collection, formerly occupied by Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) . [38] (#cite_note-38) Under his leadership, Fendi collaborated on a clothing collections with Kim Kardashian West (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian_West) 's shapewear brand Skims (/wiki/Skims) (2021) [39] (#cite_note-39) and Stefano Pilati (/wiki/Stefano_Pilati) (2023). [40] (#cite_note-40) In May 2024, Fendi announced its return to the perfume market with a first collection of seven scents directly inspired by its origins. [41] (#cite_note-41) Other activities [ edit ] Diffusion lines [ edit ] In 1983, Fendi launched the Fendissime diffusion line (/wiki/Diffusion_line) of furs, ready-to-wear clothing and handbags, then designed by Silvia, Maria Teresa and Federica Fendi. [42] (#cite_note-42) [43] (#cite_note-43) From 1987 to 1992, Silvia Venturini Fendi served as the label's designer. [44] (#cite_note-44) Other diffusion lines have included Fendi 365 , Fendi Country (later Fendi Jeans ), [16] (#cite_note-Fast_Forward_At_Fendi-16) and Fendi Maglia knitwear. [45] (#cite_note-45) Through licensing agreements, Gruppo Nadini manufactured and distributed several of these lines. Fendi Kids [ edit ] The Fendi Kids label made its debut in Spring/Summer 2011. [46] (#cite_note-46) Fragrances [ edit ] All previous Fendi fragrances were removed from the market after the end of the brand's beauty license with Gucci Group's YSL Beauté division in 2005. [47] (#cite_note-LVMH_Pulling_Fendi_Scent-47) In 2007, Fendi introduced its Fendi Palazzo women's fragrance but stopped selling it in 2009 already. [47] (#cite_note-LVMH_Pulling_Fendi_Scent-47) In 2010, the brand launched a new fragrance – Fan di Fendi –, the first Fendi scent to be unleashed under LVMH Fragrance Brands, before discontinuing its fragrances in 2015. [48] (#cite_note-48) In 2024, Fendi unveiled a high-end fragrance collection consisting of seven scents. [49] (#cite_note-49) Eyewear [ edit ] From 2013 until 2021, the company had a brand licensing agreement with Safilo (/wiki/Safilo) for the design, production and worldwide distribution of Fendi sunglasses and optical frames. [50] (#cite_note-50) In 2021, Fendi ended its partnership with Safilo and entered into an agreement with LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) -owned Thelios to create, produce, and distribute its eyewear collection. [51] (#cite_note-51) Fendi Casa [ edit ] Fendi started its first line of home furnishings in 1987. [15] (#cite_note-wwd.com-15) Fendi Casa terminated its collaboration with licensee Luxury Living and instead partnered with Design Holding, jointly controlled by Investindustrial and The Carlyle Group (/wiki/The_Carlyle_Group) , on creating Fashion Furniture Design (FF Design) to produce and distribute Fendi Casa. [52] (#cite_note-52) [15] (#cite_note-wwd.com-15) Real estate [ edit ] In 2016, Fendi collaborated with the interior designer Fanny Haim on the Fendi Château Residences, a 12-story beachfront condo in Surfside (/wiki/Surfside,_Florida) designed by the architecture firm Arquitectonica (/wiki/Arquitectonica) . [53] (#cite_note-53) Artistic directors [ edit ] After 2019 Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) 's direction (1965–2019), Silvia Venturini Fendi took over both the men's and women's collections. From September 2020, the women's collection was entrusted to Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) , former stylist for the Dior men's collection, who was appointed artistic director of couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) and womenswear. Silvia Venturini remains artistic director of accessories and menswear. [54] (#cite_note-54) Jones' debut collection was for Fall / Winter 2021/2022. [55] (#cite_note-55) In 2021 Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi's daughter, was appointed artistic director of jewelry. [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) Fendi store in Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) Cinema [ edit ] Fendi has often collaborated with cinema; the maison has designed the clothes for Once Upon a Time in America (/wiki/Once_Upon_a_Time_in_America) , Evita and The Royal Tenenbaums (/wiki/The_Royal_Tenenbaums) . [58] (#cite_note-58) [59] (#cite_note-59) Many famous film directors in the 1970s, including Luchino Visconti (/wiki/Luchino_Visconti) , Federico Fellini (/wiki/Federico_Fellini) , Franco Zeffirelli (/wiki/Franco_Zeffirelli) , and Mauro Bolognini (/wiki/Mauro_Bolognini) , chose Fendi furs for their characters. [60] (#cite_note-60) Fendi has also dressed Sophia Loren (/wiki/Sophia_Loren) , Diana Ross (/wiki/Diana_Ross) , Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (/wiki/Jacqueline_Kennedy_Onassis) , Soraya (/wiki/Soraya_Esfandiary-Bakhtiary) , and Liza Minnelli (/wiki/Liza_Minnelli) . [61] (#cite_note-61) Campaigns [ edit ] Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) himself was responsible for the photography of Fendi's ad campaigns before his death; since then, Fendi has worked with Nick Knight (/wiki/Nick_Knight_(photographer)) , [62] (#cite_note-62) Craig McDean (/wiki/Craig_McDean) [63] (#cite_note-63) and Steven Meisel. [64] (#cite_note-64) Past campaigns have featured Mark Ronson (/wiki/Mark_Ronson) (2012), [65] (#cite_note-65) Catherine Zeta-Jones (/wiki/Catherine_Zeta-Jones) (2019), [66] (#cite_note-66) Zoey Deutch (/wiki/Zoey_Deutch) (2020), [67] (#cite_note-67) Linda Evangelista (/wiki/Linda_Evangelista) (2022), [68] (#cite_note-68) Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) (2023) [69] (#cite_note-69) and Nicholas Galitzine (/wiki/Nicholas_Galitzine) (2023), [70] (#cite_note-70) among others. Philanthropy [ edit ] Heritage restoration [ edit ] In 2013, Fendi pledged more than 2 million euros to sponsor projects, including a clean-up of the Quattro Fontane (/wiki/Quattro_Fontane) [71] (#cite_note-71) and the restoration of the Trevi Fountain (/wiki/Trevi_Fountain) in Rome, and held the company's 90th anniversary show over the fountain using a plexiglas floor. [72] (#cite_note-72) [73] (#cite_note-73) In 2019, Fendi committed 2.5 million euros to restore the Temple of Venus and Roma (/wiki/Temple_of_Venus_and_Roma) , when it held its couture show at the site. [74] (#cite_note-74) By 2021, Fendi completed the temple's restoration. [75] (#cite_note-75) In December 2023, Fendi joined the restoration of heritage at Villa d'Este (/wiki/Villa_d%27Este) . In partnership with the Villas Adriana and d'Este, Fendi announced its new sponsorship project which consisted in the restoration of the grotto of Diana in the gardens of the Villa d'Este (/wiki/Villa_d%27Este) in Tivoli, near Rome (/wiki/Rome) . [76] (#cite_note-76) Visual arts [ edit ] In 2017, Fendi installed Foglie di Pietra [Leaves of Stone] , a sculpture by Giuseppe Penone (/wiki/Giuseppe_Penone) , in Rome's Largo Goldoni and donated to the city; Fendi committed to maintaining and preserving the monument for 30 years. [77] (#cite_note-77) Also in 2017, Fendi sponsored the Italian pavilion (/wiki/National_pavilions_at_the_Venice_Biennale) at the 57th Venice Biennale (/wiki/57th_Venice_Biennale) . [78] (#cite_note-78) In 2018, Fendi signed a partnership with the Galleria Borghese (/wiki/Galleria_Borghese) to support the museum's exhibitions for the following three years. [79] (#cite_note-79) Other activities [ edit ] In 2021, Fendi collaborated with a non-profit organization to create a 'charity project' which consisted of designing a kids' unisex T-shirt whose money would be devoted to realize the wishes of kids who suffer from serious sicknesses. [80] (#cite_note-80) [81] (#cite_note-81) In 2021 and 2022, Fendi collaborated with the Juilliard School (/wiki/Juilliard_School) on assigning the Fendi Vanguard Award – including a cash prize and a mentorship program – to four out of Julliard's final-year students enrolled in the bachelor's, master's and advanced diploma programs. [82] (#cite_note-82) Controversy [ edit ] Fendi sued Burlington (/wiki/Burlington_(department_store)) in 1986 for selling counterfeit handbags, and filed a new lawsuit in 2006 after concluding the company was violating the injunction. In 2010, a U.S. Magistrate recommended that Burlington pay Fendi just over $5.6 million in damages, attorney's fees and costs to settle a dispute dating to 1986 over the alleged sale of counterfeit Fendi-branded leather goods. Burlington subsequently agreed to pay $10.05 million. [83] (#cite_note-Jonathan_Stempel_2010-83) Also in 2010, Fendi reached a $2.5 million settlement with the former parent company of Filene's Basement (/wiki/Filene%27s_Basement) to resolve counterfeiting claims. [83] (#cite_note-Jonathan_Stempel_2010-83) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Fendi_locations_1-0) Fendi store directory (https://www.fendi.com/ii-en/store-locator/directory) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Fendi, cambio al vertice: il nuovo ceo è Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglu (https://www.ilsole24ore.com/art/fendi-cambio-vertice-nuovo-ceo-e-pierre-emmanuel-angeloglu-AG14CSH) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Scott, Fiona Sinclair (14 January 2020). "After Losing Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi Forges on at One of Italy's Most Storied Fashion Houses." (https://www.cnn.com/style/amp/silvia-fendi-documentary/index.html) CNN (/wiki/CNN) . Retrieved 31 May 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Delfina Delettrez Fendi: «My family challenge» (https://www.milanofinanza.it/news/delfina-delettrez-fendi-my-family-challenge-202107222005225527) ^ (#cite_ref-5) "The History of Fendi" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220224170437/https://www.fendi.com/us-en/inside-fendi/the-history-of-fendi) . US . Archived from the original (https://www.fendi.com/us-en/inside-fendi/the-history-of-fendi) on February 24, 2022 . Retrieved February 24, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Fendi Relocates To A Roman Palace (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/fendi-moves-headquarters-to-palazzo-della-civilta-italiano-in-rome) ^ (#cite_ref-LBM_2012_7-0) Chevalier, Michel; Gerald Mazzalovo (2012). "3". Luxury Brand Management (second ed.). Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. p. 53 (of 316). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-118-17176-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b Fendi, 90 anni di storia italiana (https://style.corriere.it/moda/fendi-90-anni-di-storia-italiana/) ^ (#cite_ref-fragrantica_9-0) "Fendi perfumes and colognes" (http://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Fendi.html) . Fragrantica.com . Retrieved October 24, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b John Tagliabue (October 13, 1999), French-Italian Alliance Takes Controlling Stake in Fendi (https://www.nytimes.com/1999/10/13/business/international-business-french-italian-alliance-takes-controlling-stake-in-fendi.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Findley, Lewis. "The History of Fendi" (https://journal.williamgeorge.com/the-history-of-fendi) . journal.williamgeorge.com . Retrieved February 24, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Bergin, Olivia (October 24, 2011). "Karl Lagerfeld to launch new, accessible line" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111104011214/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/olivia-bergin/TMG8846242/Karl-Lagerfeld-to-launch-new-accessible-line.html) . The Telegraph . London. Archived from the original (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/olivia-bergin/TMG8846242/Karl-Lagerfeld-to-launch-new-accessible-line.html) on November 4, 2011 . Retrieved October 24, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Fendi-evolution, mezzo secolo di logomania" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221124163754/https://www.mffashion.com/news/backstage/fendi-evolution-mezzo-secolo-di-logomania-201903221205086743) . Archived from the original (https://www.mffashion.com/news/backstage/fendi-evolution-mezzo-secolo-di-logomania-201903221205086743) on November 24, 2022 . Retrieved July 22, 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Fendi rewind, storia del brand che celebra il lusso dell'artigianalità (https://www.lofficielitalia.com/moda/fendi-storia-del-brand-karl-lagerfeld-silvia-venturini-carriera) ^ Jump up to: a b c Luisa Zargani (October 5, 2021), Fendi Previews New Home Collection in Rome (https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/fendi-previews-new-home-collection-rome-1234964119/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ Jump up to: a b Sarah Gay Forden (25 January 1994), Fast Forward At Fendi (https://wwd.com/feature/fast-forward-at-fendi-1152507-1748881/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-17) FENDI INVESTIGATED (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/fendi-investigated) British Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) , 2 December 2003. ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Dior, Fendi frenzy helps luxury group LVMH extend its reach" (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/surging-vuitton-drives-lvmh-sales-sharply-up-second-quarter-2021-07-26/) . Reuters . July 26, 2021 . Retrieved August 4, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Suzy Menkes (/wiki/Suzy_Menkes) (October 13, 1999), Prada and LVMH Join Forces to Buy Italian Fashion House Fendi (https://www.nytimes.com/1999/10/13/news/prada-and-lvmh-join-forces-to-buy-italian-fashion-house-fendi.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) . ^ Jump up to: a b Tracie Rozhon (October 22, 2003), A Struggling LVMH Unit Looks Beyond the Handbag; But Fendi Insists That Leather and Fur Are Forever (https://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/22/business/struggling-lvmh-unit-looks-beyond-handbag-but-fendi-insists-that-leather-fur-are.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Prada Selling Fendi Shares to LVMH (https://apnews.com/cf7fd08c44ec09c944977895c33f13b6) Associated Press (/wiki/Associated_Press) , November 24, 2001. ^ (#cite_ref-22) LVMH Adds Another 15.9 Percent of Fendi (https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/lvmh-adds-another-15-9-percent-of-fendi-761056/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) , July 9, 2002. ^ (#cite_ref-23) Socha, Miles (September 24, 2020). "Seminal Moments: When Fendi Conquered the Great Wall of China" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/when-karl-and-fendi-conquered-the-great-wall-of-china-1203671195/) . WWD . Retrieved May 13, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "fendi at the great wall of china" (https://www.designboom.com/chic/fendi-at-the-great-wall-of-china/) . designboom | architecture & design magazine . October 21, 2007 . Retrieved May 13, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) China's Great Wall gets first major fashion show (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-china-life-fashionshow-idUSPEK1387120071021) ^ (#cite_ref-26) The story of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s Peekaboo bag: from tongue-in-cheek accessory to timeless design icon (https://www.theweek.co.uk/96729/the-story-of-silvia-venturini-fendi-s-peekaboo-bag-from-tongue-in-cheek-accessory-to-timeless) ^ (#cite_ref-27) Silvia Venturini Fendi Reflects on Designing the Peekaboo Bag, 10 Years Onwards (https://fashionmagazine.com/style/fendi-peekaboo-10th-anniversary/) ^ (#cite_ref-28) Fendi's 'haute fourrure' closes Paris couture week (https://www.ansa.it/english/news/2015/07/09/fendis-haute-fourrure-closes-paris-couture-week_a173aa7b-3315-449d-8585-fcd2732a3ee2.html) ^ (#cite_ref-29) Haute Fourrure 2017: Fendi (https://www.theglassmagazine.com/haute-couture-fallwinter-2017-fendi/) ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Fendi celebrates 90 years with runway show at Trevi Fountain" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221124163752/https://www.ansamed.info/ansamed/en/news/nations/italy/2016/07/07/fendi-celebrates-90-years-with-runway-show-at-trevi-fountain_ed4c6b8b-602d-4871-a8a0-4796e75d322b.html#:~:text=(ANSAmed)%20%2D%20Rome%20%2D%20Fendi,contribution%20of%202.18%20million%20euros.) . Archived from the original (https://www.ansamed.info/ansamed/en/news/nations/italy/2016/07/07/fendi-celebrates-90-years-with-runway-show-at-trevi-fountain_ed4c6b8b-602d-4871-a8a0-4796e75d322b.html#:~:text=(ANSAmed)%20%2D%20Rome%20%2D%20Fendi,contribution%20of%202.18%20million%20euros.) on November 24, 2022 . Retrieved July 22, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Fendi celebrates its 90 years at the Trevi Fountain (https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/news/2016/07/01/fendi-celebrates-90-years-at-the-trevi-fountain/) ^ (#cite_ref-32) Stephanie Kirchgaessner (October 22, 2015), Fendi rejects criticism over new HQ in Mussolini propaganda building (https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/oct/22/fendi-launches-hq-in-mussolini-propaganda-building) The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Fendi's New Headquarters Are a Fascist Icon (http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/931167/fendis-new-headquarters-are-a-fascist-icon) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180907071119/http://www.blouinartinfo.com/news/story/931167/fendis-new-headquarters-are-a-fascist-icon) 2018-09-07 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Blouin Artinfo , July 18, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-34) Robert Murphy (January 13, 2016), [1] (https://www.wsj.com/articles/fendis-new-hotel-embodies-the-spirit-of-rome-1452700659) WSJ. (/wiki/WSJ.) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Luisa Zargani (9 November 2017), Fendi, Rimowa Team on Suitcase (https://wwd.com/feature/fendi-rimowa-team-on-suitcase-11044490/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Rachel Arthur (November 29, 2017). "Customized Luxury: Fendi Turns To Digital For Bespoke Handbag Launch" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2017/11/29/customized-luxury-fendi-farfetch/#77dc7ae51c1d) . Forbes . Retrieved March 27, 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b Sudip Kar-Gupta and Sarah White (February 20, 2018), LVMH taps Dior's Brunschwig to lead luxury brand Fendi (https://www.reuters.com/article/lvmh-fendi/lvmh-taps-diors-brunschwig-to-lead-luxury-brand-fendi-idINKCN1G41G5) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Socha, Miles (September 9, 2020). "Kim Jones to Design Fendi Women's, Continue at Dior Men" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/kim-jones-joins-fendi-womens-designer-1234576082/) . WWD . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Uday Sampath and Mimosa Spencer (October 25, 2021), Kim Kardashian West collaborates with luxury label Fendi (https://www.reuters.com/business/media-telecom/kim-kardashian-west-collaborates-with-luxury-label-fendi-2021-10-25/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Jack Moss (25 October 2023), Fendi’s 1920s-inspired collaboration with guest designer Stefano Pilati has arrived (https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/fendi-stefano-pilati-collaboration) Wallpaper (/wiki/Wallpaper_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Fendi lance sa première collection de parfums" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/beaute/fendi-ligne-parfums-famille) . Journal du Luxe . Retrieved June 18, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) Bernadine Morris (/wiki/Bernadine_Morris) (10 March 1983), Fendi and Lagerfeld triumph in Milan (https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/10/garden/fendi-and-lagerfeld-triumph-in-milan.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Mary Davis Suro (7 June 1987), Inside the House of Fendi (https://www.nytimes.com/1987/06/07/business/italy-host-for-the-economic-summit-a-land-of-family-businesses.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Alexander Fury (7 June 2023), Silvia Venturini Fendi: ‘To be noticed, you need to be decorated’ (https://www.ft.com/content/7bd99084-4927-4f93-b237-32741918f7f9) Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Lisa Lockwood (29 October 1996), Tyler licenses Gruppo Nadini for a collection (https://wwd.com/feature/article-1120874-1778103/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-46) The Story of Fendi (https://barbarafreres.de/en/fendi/) ^ Jump up to: a b Stephanie Epiro and Jennifer Weil (9 February 2009), LVMH Pulling Fendi Scent (https://wwd.com/feature/lvmh-pulling-fendi-scent-1972304-1551976/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-48) Kerry Olsen (10 September 2010), Fendi Unleashes Fan di Fendi Scent (https://wwd.com/feature/fendi-unleashes-fan-di-fendi-scent-3246501-1279454/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-49) Miles Socha (17 May 2024), Amid Internal ‘Rescheduling,’ Fendi to Sit Out June Couture (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/fendi-next-couture-show-june-1236383249/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Isla Binnie (June 10, 2013), Eyewear maker Safilo and fashion house Fendi agree brand license (https://www.reuters.com/article/safilo-licence-fendi-idUSL5N0EM35420130610) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Giulia Segreti (July 1, 2021), Fendi teams up with Thelios as LVMH focuses on eyewear (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/fendi-teams-up-with-thelios-lvmh-focuses-eyewear-2021-07-01/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-52) Luisa Zargani (May 4, 2021), Fendi Inks New Joint Venture for Home Line (https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/endi-inks-new-joint-venture-home-line-1234816200/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-53) C. J. Hughes (21 April 2020), The Latest Fashion Accessory in Miami: A Luxury Condo (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/21/business/miami-fashion-luxury-condo.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Kim Jones nuovo direttore creativo di Fendi donna. E continua da Dior (https://www.corriere.it/moda/20_settembre_09/kim-jones-nuovo-direttore-creativo-fendi-donna-continua-dior-9205a7e0-f26f-11ea-86fc-7fbaee355822.shtml) ^ (#cite_ref-55) Sorpresa in casa Fendi, arriva Kim Jones (https://www.repubblica.it/moda-e-beauty/2020/09/09/news/kim_jones_fendi_dior_men-291621771/) ^ (#cite_ref-56) "Delfina Delettrez Fendi has now ushered a new era for its jewellery" (https://www.vogue.in/magazine-story/delfina-delettrez-fendi-has-now-ushered-a-new-era-for-its-jewellery/) . Vogue India . September 13, 2021 . Retrieved May 19, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) "Fendi's first high jewellery collection evokes a beautiful Roman sunset" (https://vogue.sg/fendi-delfina-delettrez-high-jewellery/) . Vogue Singapore . March 3, 2023 . Retrieved May 19, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Fendi Studios Celebrates the Brand’s Award-Winning Costumes (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/fendi-studios-celebrates-brands-award-winning-costumes-1088707/) ^ (#cite_ref-59) The 20 Most Iconic Coats in Movie History (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g34364277/famous-movie-coats/) ^ (#cite_ref-60) Milan Fashion Week: Fendi on Film (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG10331722/Milan-Fashion-Week-Fendi-on-Film.html) ^ (#cite_ref-61) Fendi (https://web.archive.org/web/20090208210110/http:/dellamoda.it/dizionario_della_moda/f/fendi.php) ^ (#cite_ref-62) Luisa Zargani (January 3, 2020), In a First, Fendi Taps Nick Knight for Spring Ads (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/in-a-first-fendi-taps-nick-knight-for-spring-ads-1203407319/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-63) Balance of Opposites: FENDI Fall Winter 2022.23 Collection (https://www.designscene.net/2022/07/fendi-fw22-craig-mcdean.html) ^ (#cite_ref-64) Fendace Is Here: Get a First Glimpse of 2022’s Most Anticipated Designer Drop (https://www.vogue.com/article/fendace) ^ (#cite_ref-65) Miles Socha (13 January 2012), A New Version: Fendi Readies Men’s Debut (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/a-new-version-5488722/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-66) Hanna Flanagan (28 October 2019), Watch Catherine Zeta-Jones and Daughter Carys Dance Through Rome in New Fendi Campaign (https://people.com/style/catherine-zeta-jones-and-daughter-carys-star-in-new-fendi-campaign/) People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-67) Luisa Zargani (28 July 2020), EXCLUSIVE: Fendi Works With Chloe x Halle, Zoey Deutch on Campaigns (https://wwd.com/feature/exclusive-fendi-works-with-chloe-x-halle-zoey-deutch-on-campaigns-1203687953/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Vanessa Friedman (10 September 2022), Linda Evangelista, the It Bag and ‘Sex and the City’ (https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/10/style/linda-evangelista-fendi-baguette.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-69) Kristopher Fraser (23 March 2023), Naomi Campbell Stars in Fendi’s Peekaboo Bag Spring 2023 Campaign (https://wwd.com/pop-culture/celebrity-news/naomi-campbell-fendi-peekaboo-bag-spring-2023-campaign-1235592920/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-70) Sandra Salibian (13 June 2023), Nicholas Galitzine Named Fendi’s First Global Menswear Ambassador (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/fendi-names-nicholas-galitzine-first-global-menswear-ambassador-images-ad-1235680796/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-71) Rachel Sanderson (January 30, 2013), Brand Italy puts a price tag on history (https://www.ft.com/content/ef777962-3594-11e2-bd77-00144feabdc0) Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-72) "Fendi: why the fashion house is investing in Rome's patrimony" (http://www.theweek.co.uk/92079/fendi-why-the-fashion-house-is-investing-in-romes-patrimony) . The Week. March 5, 2018 . Retrieved March 27, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-73) Roberts, Andrew (June 23, 2014). "Fendi Touts Dolce Vita as Owner LVMH Relies on Brand" (https://www.bloomberg.com/news/2014-06-22/fendi-touts-dolce-vita-as-owner-lvmh-relies-on-brand.html) . Bloomberg . ^ (#cite_ref-74) Vanessa Friedman (July 5, 2019), Fendi, the Legacy of Empire — and Lagerfeld (https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/05/fashion/fendi-lagerfeld-couture-rome.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-75) Salibian, Sandra (December 20, 2021). "Fendi Unveils Restoration of Rome's Temple of Venus and Rome" (https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/fendi-unveils-restoration-of-romes-temple-of-venus-and-rome-1235021689/) . WWD . Retrieved March 6, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-76) "Fendi s'engage dans la restauration de patrimoine à la Villa d'Este" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/fendi-restauration-patrimoine-villa-este) . Journal du Luxe . Retrieved April 1, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-77) Luisa Zargani (22 May 2017), Fendi Donates Artwork to Rome (https://wwd.com/feature/fendi-donates-artwork-to-rome-10892473/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-78) Luisa Zargani (21 March 2017), Fendi to Support Italian Pavilion at Venice Biennale (https://wwd.com/feature/fendi-support-italian-pavilion-venice-biennale-10848888/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-79) Luisa Zargani (September 13, 2017). "Fendi Inks Partnership With Rome's Galleria Borghese" (http://wwd.com/eye/celebrity-real-estate/fendi-inks-partnership-with-galleria-borghese-10982852/) . WWD . Retrieved March 27, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-80) Salibian, Sandra (November 12, 2021). "Fendi to Support Make-A-Wish International With Special Fendi Kids T-Shirt" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/fendi-supports-make-a-wish-international-kids-tshirt-1234994807/) . Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved January 5, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-81) Clark, Imogen (November 19, 2021). "Fendi partners with Make-A-Wish foundation to launch charitable kids T-shirt" (https://www.theglassmagazine.com/fendi-partners-with-make-a-wish-foundation-to-launch-charitable-kids-t-shirt/) . The Glass Magazine . Retrieved January 5, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-82) Alessandra Turra (21 July 2021), Fendi Awards Four Juilliard Students (https://wwd.com/feature/fendi-awards-four-juilliard-students-1234885197/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ Jump up to: a b Jonathan Stempel (October 20, 2010), Fendi, Burlington in $10 mln counterfeiting accord (https://www.reuters.com/article/fendi-burlingtoncoatfactory-settlement/fendi-burlington-in-10-mln-counterfeiting-accord-idUSN2024526220101020) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Fendi (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fendi) . 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Knee-length coat This article has an unclear citation style (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Citation_style) . The references used may be made clearer with a different or consistent style of citation (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) and footnoting (/wiki/Help:Footnotes) . ( December 2010 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A tailcoat is a knee-length coat (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) characterised by a rear section of the skirt (/wiki/Skirt) (known as the tails ), with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse-riding (/wiki/Horse-riding) in the Early Modern era (/wiki/Early_Modern_era) . From the 18th century, however, tailcoats evolved into general forms of day (/wiki/Morning_dress) and evening (/wiki/Evening_dress_(disambiguation)) formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) , in parallel to how the lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) succeeded the frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) (19th century) and the justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) (18th century). Thus, in 21st-century Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_code) for men, mainly two types of tailcoats have survived: Dress coat (#Dress_coat) , an evening wear item with a squarely cut-away front, worn for formal white tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning coat (#Morning_coat) (or cutaway in American English (/wiki/American_English) ), a day-wear item with a gradually tapered front cut away, worn for formal morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) In colloquial language (/wiki/Colloquial_language) without further specification, "tailcoat" typically designates the former, that is the evening (1) dress coat for white tie. History [ edit ] Beau Brummell (/wiki/Beau_Brummell) wears a Regency period dress coat as daytime dress. The coat is able to close and the tails are knee length. Winfield Scott (/wiki/Winfield_Scott) wearing a tailcoat at the Battle of Veracruz (/wiki/Battle_of_Veracruz) A women's black wool tailcoat, 1939 Shadbelly [ edit ] Further information: Shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) In equestrianism (/wiki/Equestrianism) , a variant called a shadbelly is still worn in certain disciplines in its eighteenth-century role as daytime formalwear. It is basically a form of dress coat which is closer in cut to the early nineteenth-century style worn by Beau Brummel (/wiki/Beau_Brummel) than to the modern version worn with evening formal dress. The male version of the shadbelly is often called a "weaselbelly". Levée dress coat [ edit ] See also: Court uniform and dress in the United Kingdom (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) This is a type of dress coat traditionally worn with court dress (/wiki/Court_dress) , until the mid-twentieth century. It was made of black velvet and traditionally worn at court, levées (/wiki/Levee_(ceremony)) , and evening state parties by those who did not wear uniforms. A version made of black barathea (/wiki/Barathea) was also worn as diplomatic dress (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) . It was single breasted with a stand-up collar, with plain gauntlet cuffs, and two three-pointed flap pockets on the waist seam. It had six metal buttons at the front, and two decorative buttons at the back. The body of the coat was lined with black silk, and skirts with white silk. It was worn with breeches, black silk hose, white bow tie, white gloves, and court shoes (pumps) with steel buckles. The front of the coat was cut away squarely like a standard dress coat. [1] (#cite_note-1) Military coatee [ edit ] Further information: Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Military issue tail coat, 1789 From c. 1790 until after the Crimean War (/wiki/Crimean_War) , a red tail coat with short tails, known as a coatee, was part of the infantry uniform of the British army (/wiki/British_army) . The collar and cuffs were in the regimental colors and the coats had white braid on the front. [2] (#cite_note-2) Elite light infantry units like the 95th Rifles were issued short green coats to provide camouflage and ease of movement. The Americans issued a similar uniform in dark blue to enlisted men during the War of 1812 (/wiki/War_of_1812) . This remained in service until 1833 when it was replaced with a shell jacket (/wiki/Shell_jacket) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Officers continued to wear tail coats until after the Mexican War (/wiki/Mexican%E2%80%93American_War) when frock coats (/wiki/Frock_coat) became the standard field wear. By the time the M1858 uniform (/wiki/M1858_uniform) was introduced tail coats had been relegated to full dress. The Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) had an elaborate hierarchy of tailcoats for the officers, allowing further buttons and gilding according to rank and seniority. These were single-breasted for junior officers and double-breasted for those with the rank of lieutenant and above. Highland coatee [ edit ] Further information: Highland dress (/wiki/Highland_dress) This is worn with Highland dress, and has a square cut away front like a dress coat, but the tails are cut significantly shorter. Footman's coat [ edit ] Further information: Livery (/wiki/Livery) This was worn as livery (/wiki/Livery) , a servant's uniform. It was knee length with a sloped cut-away front like a morning coat. It was single breasted with a stand-up collar and gilt buttons. There were three-pronged side pockets similar in style to the levée dress coat. Dress coat [ edit ] Main article: White tie § Dress coat (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) Caricature of Mr John Delacour (/w/index.php?title=John_Delacour&action=edit&redlink=1) (19th century) wearing dress coat with top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) for white tie (/wiki/White_tie) . A dress coat , sometimes called a swallow-tail or claw-hammer coat, is the coat that has, since the 1850s, come to be worn only in the evening by men as part of the white tie (/wiki/White_tie) dress code (/wiki/Dress_code_(Western)) , also known as evening full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) , for formal (/wiki/Formal_attire) evening occasions. It is commonly referred to as just a tailcoat in America, or tails in Great Britain, but amongst tailors (both British and American) and dress historians (/wiki/Dress_history) it is traditionally called a dress coat to differentiate it from other types of tailcoats. The modern dress coat is an evolution of the coat that was once both day and evening dress. It became increasingly popular from around the late 1790s and was particularly widespread during the British Regency (/wiki/British_Regency) , and in America in the 1830s to 1850s. [4] (#cite_note-4) The dress coat was supplanted in the 1840s as formal day wear by the frock coat, which was in turn replaced in the early twentieth century by the morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) . In the Regency period, the dress coat with gilt buttons was always worn with non-matching trousers, pantaloons or breeches. Since the Victorian era, the modern dress coat for evening wear has been worn with matching trousers of the same cloth with two stripes of braiding down the side. The resulting suit is traditionally referred to by tailors as a dress suit . A dress coat is waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back. Sometimes there is a pocket on the inside to hold gloves (/wiki/Gloves) . Since around the 1840s the dress coat has lacked outside side pockets, but prior to this it took flapped side pockets. Since the early twentieth century, it has become acceptable in America to have a welted pocket on the outside of the chest to hold a pocket square, but prior to this dress coats lacked any outer pockets. The front of the skirt is squarely cut away. Since around the 1830s the coat has been constructed with a waist seam that allows greater waist suppression. From the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) , the revers (/wiki/Revers) has taken facings in silk ( grosgrain (/wiki/Grosgrain) or satin (/wiki/Satin) ) on the lapels (/wiki/Lapel) . Although it is double-breasted, since the 1870s, the dress coat no longer fastens in the front. [5] (#cite_note-5) As a result, although there are two rows of buttons, these are all non-functional, serving only a decorative function. As part of modern white tie , a black dress coat is worn with a stiff, white wing-collar dress shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) , with a plain starched (pique or plain-weave) bib that takes shirt studs, single cuffs (/wiki/Single_cuff) fastened with cufflinks (/wiki/Cufflink) (of a white metal); a matching white marcella cotton or satin silk bowtie and white waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) ; black trousers with one or two silk galon; and black oxfords (without a toe cap) or pumps (/wiki/Court_shoe) ; the shoes must be polished to a mirror shine or be made of patent leather (/wiki/Patent_leather) and are worn with black, over-the-calf silk socks. Additionally, a top hat, silk dress scarf, and white dress gloves are either seen as acceptable or mandatory. A gentleman's top hat was traditionally made of silk plush, although the last supplies of this material have now been exhausted, so inferior hats are made of silk or felt cloth. Morning coat [ edit ] Main article: Morning dress § Morning coat (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Two men wearing morning coats at a wedding. 1929 A morning coat is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle, and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam. The lapels are usually pointed (/wiki/Jacket_lapel) (American English peak), not step (/wiki/Jacket_lapel) (notch), since the coat is now only worn as formalwear. When it was first introduced, the step lapel was common, since it was worn as half dress. The coat can be grey or black as part of morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) , and is usually worn with striped, or very occasionally checked, trousers. The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat. A modern traditional morning tailcoat, made of mohair The modern morning coat (or cutaway in American English) is a man's coat worn as the principal item in morning dress. The name derives from morning nineteenth-century horseback riding (/wiki/Equestrianism) exercise for gentlemen. It was regarded as an informal form of half dress (/wiki/Half_dress) . Gradually it became acceptable as an alternative to the frock coat for formal day wear or full dress. Since the nineteenth century it is normally only seen at weddings, at formal baptisms, and in England and Australia, at races such as Royal Ascot (/wiki/Royal_Ascot) , the Derby (/wiki/Epsom_Derby) and the Victoria Derby (/wiki/Victoria_Derby) where it is worn with a contrasting waistcoat, usually light grey or sometimes 'fancy', and perhaps in club colours. It is very occasionally seen at funerals but more often it is used as day wear at formal luncheons, especially civic occasions under formal gowns, when worn with a black matching waistcoat (or 'vest'). Male members of the cabinet of Japan (/wiki/Cabinet_of_Japan) wear it in their first public appearance following the formation of the cabinet. The Marshal and Clerk of the United States Supreme Court (/wiki/United_States_Supreme_Court) wear morning coats when the justices are appearing in public wearing their traditional robes, for example when the court is in session, or when attending the President's (/wiki/President_of_the_United_States) State of the Union address (/wiki/State_of_the_Union_address) . At one time all attorneys appearing before the court wore morning coats but they now wear standard business attire. The United States Solicitor General (/wiki/United_States_Solicitor_General) (when the office is held by a male) and his or her male deputies continue the tradition of wearing morning dress when arguing before the court. [6] (#cite_note-6) In modern American English, morning coats are referred to as cutaway coats . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) An example of such a levée coat can be seen at "Henry Poole — Court Dress" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081013143033/http://www.henrypoole.com/court_dress.cns) . Archived from the original (http://www.henrypoole.com/court_dress.cns) on 2008-10-13 . Retrieved 2008-10-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "19th Regiment of Foot, The Green Howards - Crimean War Impression" (http://www.19thfoot.co.uk/) . www.19thfoot.co.uk . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210422052118/https://www.19thfoot.co.uk/) from the original on 2021-04-22 . Retrieved 2009-02-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "C&D Jarnagin 1812 Catalog in "Frames" mode" (http://www.jarnaginco.com/1812catframe.html) . www.jarnaginco.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210226015925/http://www.jarnaginco.com/1812catframe.html) from the original on 2021-02-26 . Retrieved 2009-02-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "An Introduction to Gentlemen's Fashions During the Regency Era" (http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm) . We Make History . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201127013146/http://wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm) from the original on 2020-11-27 . Retrieved 2008-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "White Tie – Coat" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150924103315/http://www.societies.cam.ac.uk/cuhags/whitetie/tailcoat.htm) . Cambridge University Heraldic and Genealogical Society. Archived from the original (http://www.societies.cam.ac.uk/cuhags/whitetie/tailcoat.htm) on 2015-09-24 . Retrieved 2008-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Supreme Court" (http://supremecourt.c-span.org/Video/TVPrograms/SC_Week_Tuesday.aspx) . C-SPAN . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150309051451/http://supremecourt.c-span.org/Video/TVPrograms/SC_Week_Tuesday.aspx) from the original on 2015-03-09 . Retrieved 2009-10-07 . Bibliography [ edit ] Antongiavanni, Nicholas: The Suit , HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-06-089186-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-06-089186-6) Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914 , Abrams, 1996. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8109-6317-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8109-6317-5) Byrd, Penelope: The Male Image, Men's Fashion in England 1300-1970 . B.T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1979. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7134-0860-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7134-0860-X) Croonborg, Frederick: The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring . Croonborg Sartorial Co. New York and Chicago, 1907 Cunnington, C. Willett (/wiki/C._Willett_Cunnington) ; Cunnington, Phillis (/wiki/Phillis_Cunnington) (1959): Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century , Plays Inc, Boston, 1970 reprint Devere, Louis: The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System (London, 1866) revised and edited by R. L. Shep (/wiki/R._L._Shep) . R. L. Shep, Mendocino, California, 1986. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914046-03-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-914046-03-9) Doyle, Robert: The Art of the Tailor , Sartorial Press Publications, Stratford, Ontario; 2005. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9683039-2-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9683039-2-7) Druessedow, Jean L. (editor): Men's Fashion Illustration from the Turn of the Century Reprint. Originally published: New York: Jno J. Mitchell Co. 1910. Dover Publications, 1990 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-26353-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-486-26353-3) Flusser, Alan (/wiki/Alan_Flusser) : Dressing the Man , Harper-Collins, 2002. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-019144-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-06-019144-3) Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis: Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950 , Plays Inc, Boston, 1973 Minister, Edward: The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting (London, 1853) Vol 1 & II . Edited with notes by R.L. Shep (/wiki/R.L._Shep) , Mendocino, California, 1993. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914046-17-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-914046-17-9) Peacock, John: Men's Fashion: the complete sourcebook , Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 1996. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-500-01725-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-500-01725-5) Roetzel, Bernhard (/wiki/Bernhard_Roetzel) : Gentleman: a timeless fashion . Könemann, Köln, 2004. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-8331-1061-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/3-8331-1061-9) *Salisbury, W. S.: Salisbury's System of Actual Measurement and Drafting for all Styles of Coats upon Geometric Principles . New York 1866. Reprinted in Civil War Gentlemen: 1860 Apparel Arts and Uniforms by R. L. Shep (/wiki/R._L._Shep) , Mendocino, California, 1994. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914046-22-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-914046-22-5) Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Fabric of Society: a century of people and their clothes 1770-1870 . Laura Ashley Press, Carno, Powys ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9508913-0-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9508913-0-4) Unknown author: The Standard Work on Cutting Men's Garments . 4th ed. Originally pub. 1886 by Jno J. Mitchell, New York. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-916896-33-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-916896-33-1) Vincent, W. D. F.: The Cutter's Practical Guide. Vol II "All kinds of body coats" . The John Williamson Company, London, circa 1893. Waugh, Norah: The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 , Routledge, London, 1964. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-87830-025-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-87830-025-2) Whife, A. A. (ed): The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier . 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Various styles of dress that originated in the United States Rapper Snoop Dogg (/wiki/Snoop_Dogg) back in 2009 show overalls Hip-hop fashion (also known as rap fashion ) refers to the various styles of dress (/wiki/Clothing) that originated from Urban Black America (/wiki/African_Americans) and inner city youth in cities like New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , Atlanta (/wiki/Atlanta) , and Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) . Being a major part of hip hop culture (/wiki/Hip_hop_(culture)) , it further developed in other cities across the United States, [1] (#cite_note-1) with each contributing different elements to the overall style that is now recognized worldwide. History [ edit ] Late 1970s to mid-1980s [ edit ] Members of Run-DMC (/wiki/Run-DMC) wearing Kangol (/wiki/Kangol) bucket hats (/wiki/Bucket_hat) Accessories worn by Slick Rick (/wiki/Slick_Rick) , DMC (/wiki/Darryl_McDaniels) , and Jam Master Jay (/wiki/Jam_Master_Jay) displayed at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (/wiki/Rock_and_Roll_Hall_of_Fame) During the late 1970s, sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) and fashion brands such as Le Coq Sportif (/wiki/Le_Coq_Sportif) , Kangol (/wiki/Kangol) , Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) and Pro-Keds (/wiki/Pro-Keds) became established and attached themselves to the emerging hip-hop scene. In the 1980s, hip-hop (/wiki/Hip-hop) DJs (/wiki/Turntablism) were known for wearing brightly colored name-brand tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) , sheepskin (/wiki/Sheepskin) and leather bomber jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) , [2] (#cite_note-kitwana198-2) backpiece jackets, [3] (#cite_note-3) Clarks (/wiki/C%26J_Clark) shoes, [2] (#cite_note-kitwana198-2) Britishers (also known as British walkers) and sneakers (/wiki/Sneaker_(footwear)) . DJs would wear sneakers from brands such as Pro-Keds (/wiki/Pro-Keds) , Puma (/wiki/Puma_(brand)) , Converse (/wiki/Converse_(shoe_company)) Chuck Taylor All-Stars and Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) Superstars often with oversized or "phat" shoelaces. Popular haircuts of the time ranged from the early-1980s Jheri curl (/wiki/Jheri_curl) to the early-1990s hi-top fade (/wiki/Hi-top_fade) , which was popularized by Will Smith (/wiki/Will_Smith) (The Fresh Prince) and Christopher "Kid" Reid (/wiki/Christopher_%22Kid%22_Reid) of Kid 'n Play (/wiki/Kid_%27n_Play) , among others. Another trend in hip-hop clothing, pioneered by Dapper Dan (/wiki/Dapper_Dan_(designer)) in the early 1980s, was the adaptation and brandishing of high-net-worth fashion house brands such as Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) , Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) and logos on custom-designed tracksuits, jackets, and mink coats. Trending accessories of the time included items such as large eyeglasses ( Cazals (/wiki/Cazal_Eyewear) [4] (#cite_note-4) ), Kangol (/wiki/Kangol) bucket hats, nameplates, name belts, multiple rings and heavy gold jewelry. [2] (#cite_note-kitwana198-2) [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Men's jewelry typically focused on heavy gold chains, while women's jewelry consisted of large gold earrings. [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Hip-hop performers like Kurtis Blow (/wiki/Kurtis_Blow) and Big Daddy Kane (/wiki/Big_Daddy_Kane) helped popularize gold necklaces and other types of jewelry, while female rappers such as Roxanne Shanté (/wiki/Roxanne_Shant%C3%A9) and the group Salt-N-Pepa (/wiki/Salt-N-Pepa) helped popularize made oversized gold door-knocker earrings (/wiki/Earrings) trend. The heavy jewelry was seen as a symbol of prestige and wealth, and some even connected the style to Africanism. For instance, MC Schoolly D (/wiki/Schoolly_D) claimed that wearing gold "is not something that was born and raised in America. In the rap genre, artists would engage in battles. As the leading warriors, we must rise and proudly proclaim our victories, while also sharing the methods that helped us achieve them." [6] (#cite_note-6) The fashion of 1980s hip-hop is widely regarded as one of the key components of the old-school hip-hop (/wiki/Old-school_hip_hop) culture. It is often celebrated in nostalgic (/wiki/Nostalgia) hip-hop tracks such as Ahmad (/wiki/Ahmad_(rapper)) 's 1994 single " Back in the Day (/wiki/Back_in_the_Day_(Ahmad_song)) " and Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) 's 2002 song of the same name (/wiki/Back_in_the_Day_(Missy_Elliott_song)) . As per Gwendolyn O'Neal, author of African American Aesthetics of Dress (1997), "The African-American aesthetic of dress is not exclusively African or American, but rather is influenced by distinct 'cultural' experiences that stem from being of African ancestry and living in America." [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) In an interview with Black Book Magazine (/wiki/BlackBook) , rapper Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) supported this view and defended the preference for luxury fashion brands in hip-hop culture as a way of "living on our own terms, rather than trying to imitate an elite lifestyle." The use of high-end fashion products in the hip-hop lifestyle is not necessarily driven by conspicuous consumption. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) Preppy [ edit ] In the 1980 the first wave of hip-hop influence, preppy (/wiki/Preppy) fashion also gained popularity among the youth. This group of young, upwardly mobile black individuals, known as "buppies", embraced 1980s hip-hop music and wore clothing items from brands like Polo, Timberland (/wiki/Timberland_(company)) , and Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger_(company)) . They were particularly drawn to the exclusivity and aspirational appeal of Hilfiger, with its all-American, WASP-y, and country club aesthetic. [8] (#cite_note-8) The brand's immense popularity among the hip-hop subculture community eventually led to its global expansion. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) Late 1980s to early 1990s [ edit ] Black nationalism (/wiki/Black_nationalism) was increasingly influential in rap (/wiki/Hip_hop_music) during the late 1980s, and fashions and hairstyles reflected traditional African influences (/wiki/African_clothing) . [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Blousy pants (/wiki/Trousers) were popular among dance-oriented rappers like M.C. Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) . [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Fezzes (/wiki/Fez_(hat)) , [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) kufis (/wiki/Kufi) decorated with the Kemetic (/wiki/Kemetism) ankh (/wiki/Ankh) , [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) hats, [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Africa chains, dreadlocks (/wiki/Dreadlocks) , and Black Nationalist colors of red, black, and green became popular as well, promoted by artists such as Queen Latifah (/wiki/Queen_Latifah) , KRS-One (/wiki/KRS-One) , Public Enemy (/wiki/Public_Enemy_(band)) , Native Tongues (/wiki/Native_Tongues) and X-Clan (/wiki/X-Clan) . In the 1990s, hip-hop fashion underwent a gradual evolution from the 1980s, as the community began to draw inspiration from traditional African-American dress. The style of dressing in the early 1990s was influenced by elements such as bright colors, oversized pants, and headwear. [9] (#cite_note-9) The character portrayed by Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air (/wiki/The_Fresh_Prince_of_Bel-Air) serves as a notable example of the classic style and fashion trends of the 1990s. He is consistently dressed in bright and colorful garments, throwback jerseys, and baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) . Similarly, rappers such as Kid 'n Play and Left Eye of TLC also popularized the use of bright-colored clothing and baseball caps. Among women, TLC and the late R&B singer Aaliyah (/wiki/Aaliyah) created a fashion trend by pairing baggy pants with crop tops or sports bras, and occasionally adding an oversized flannel shirt to their looks. This style represented their own version of femininity and conveyed the idea that not everything needs to be form-fitting and tight in order to be considered sexy. Kris Kross (/wiki/Kris_Kross) established the fad of wearing clothes backwards. [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Kwamé (/wiki/Kwam%C3%A9) sparked a brief trend of polka-dot (/wiki/Polka-dot) clothing. [10] (#cite_note-mtv-10) In 1984, Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) collaborated with Michael Jordan (/wiki/Michael_Jordan) to create the well-known basketball shoes, the Air Jordans. Even though the price point ranged from US$100 (which was considered a high price point then), it did not stop people from lining up for hours just to get their hands on a pair of these shoes. To date, Air Jordans are still widely worn by basketball players, and with Nike releasing retro versions from time to time, which sell out globally within minutes of the release date. [11] (#cite_note-11) Adidas had a large role in sneaker culture (/wiki/Sneaker_collecting) , helped by Run-DMC (/wiki/Run-DMC) when the group's single " My Adidas (/wiki/My_Adidas) " released in 1986. [12] (#cite_note-12) Other clothing brands such as Reebok, Kangol, Fila, Champion, Carhartt, and Timberland were closely associated with the hip hop scene, particularly on the East coast with hip hop acts such as the Wu-Tang Clan (/wiki/Wu-Tang_Clan) and Gang Starr (/wiki/Gang_Starr) sporting the look. [ citation needed ] Gangsta rap pioneers N.W.A (/wiki/N.W.A) popularized an early form of street style in the late 1980s from the African American gangs and hustler cliques who were there mimicking cholo fashion. This included khaki Dickies (/wiki/Dickies) work pants, white T-shirts, Locs sunglasses, Air Jordan (/wiki/Air_Jordan) or Nike Cortez sneakers, with black Los Angeles Raiders (/wiki/Las_Vegas_Raiders) or Kings (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Kings) snapback hats and Starter (/wiki/Starter_(clothing_line)) jackets. These jackets were also a popular trend in their own right in the late 1980s and early 1990s. They became something of a status symbol, with incidents of robberies of the jackets reported in the media. [ citation needed ] Hip hop fashion in this period also influenced high fashion designs. In the late 1980s, Isaac Mizrahi (/wiki/Isaac_Mizrahi) , inspired by his elevator operator who wore a heavy gold chain, showed a collection deeply influenced by hip hop fashion. [13] (#cite_note-vibe280-13) Models wore black catsuits, "gold chains, big gold nameplate-inspired belts, and black bomber jackets with fur-trimmed hoods." Womenswear Daily called the look "homeboy chic". [13] (#cite_note-vibe280-13) In the early 1990s, Chanel showed hip hop-inspired fashion in several shows. In one, models wore black leather jackets and piles of gold chains. In another, they wore long black dresses accessorized with heavy, padlocked silver chains. (These silver chains were remarkably similar to the metal chain-link and padlock worn by Treach of Naughty by Nature (/wiki/Naughty_by_Nature) , who said he did so in solidarity with "all the brothers who are locked down.") [13] (#cite_note-vibe280-13) The eight-ball jacket (/wiki/Eight-ball_jacket) , created by designer Michael Hoban (/wiki/Michael_Hoban_(designer)) in 1990, was trendy during the 1990s (/wiki/1990s_in_fashion) , particularly in the East Coast hip hop (/wiki/East_Coast_hip_hop) scene of New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) . The style is characterized by bright color-blocking (/wiki/Color-blocking) and large black and white decals on the back and sleeves, made to look like the eight ball (/wiki/Glossary_of_cue_sports_terms#8_ball) used in some cue sports (/wiki/Cue_sports) . [14] (#cite_note-:02-14) Mid 1990s to late 2000s [ edit ] Das EFX (/wiki/Das_EFX) Fashion among "hip hop" elites [ edit ] On the East Coast of the United States (/wiki/East_Coast_of_the_United_States) , members of the hip hop community looked back to the gangsters of the 1930s and 1940s for inspiration. [15] (#cite_note-vibe281-15) Mafioso (/wiki/Mafia) influences, especially and primarily inspired by the 1983 remake version of Scarface (/wiki/Scarface_(1983_movie)) , became popular in hip hop. Many rappers set aside gang-inspired clothing in favor of classic gangster (/wiki/Gangster) fashions such as bowler hats (/wiki/Bowler_hat) , [15] (#cite_note-vibe281-15) double-breasted suits, [15] (#cite_note-vibe281-15) silk shirts, [15] (#cite_note-vibe281-15) and alligator (/wiki/Alligator) -skin shoes (/wiki/Shoe) ("gators"). This look transcended into the R&B world in the mid-1990s when Jodeci (/wiki/Jodeci) came onto the scene, who were crooners but with a more edgy and sexual look. By wearing gangster-style clothes along with the bad-boy attitude and being a R&B group, they appealed to both men and women. They were particularly known for their baggy clothing, symbolizing a hand-me-down from an older relative with a bigger build, as a sign of toughness. On the East Coast, " ghetto fabulous (/wiki/Ghetto_fabulous) " fashion (a term coined by Sean Combs (/wiki/Sean_Combs) ) was on the rise. [15] (#cite_note-vibe281-15) Urban streetwear [ edit ] Main article: Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Rapper Slim Thug (/wiki/Slim_Thug) wearing a do-rag (/wiki/Do-rag) Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger) was one of the most prominent brands in 1990s sportswear, though Polo Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Polo_Ralph_Lauren) , Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , Nautica (/wiki/Nautica_(clothing_company)) , and DKNY (/wiki/DKNY) were also popular. [16] (#cite_note-vibe282-16) Snoop Dogg (/wiki/Snoop_Dogg) wore a striped Hilfiger rugby shirt during an appearance on Saturday Night Live (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) , and it sold out of New York City stores the next day. [17] (#cite_note-17) Furthermore, Tommy Hilfiger tube tops were also a big hit within the hip-hop community. It was considered a "must-have" piece for every girl influenced by this music genre. Artists like TLC, the late Aaliyah and so on were commonly seen in events dressed in it. [18] (#cite_note-18) Hilfiger's popularity was due to its perceived waspiness (/wiki/White_Anglo-Saxon_Protestant) , which made it seem exclusive and aspirational. [16] (#cite_note-vibe282-16) Hilfiger courted the new hip hop market: black models featured prominently in the company's advertising campaigns, and rappers like Puffy (/wiki/Sean_Combs) and Coolio (/wiki/Coolio) walked during its runways shows. [16] (#cite_note-vibe282-16) As of late, Tommy Hilfiger launched People's Place, a program designed to amplify the brand's efforts and dedication to increasing opportunities in fashion for underrepresented communities. Karl Kani (/wiki/Karl_Kani) was another influential designer who merged hip hop with fashion. [19] (#cite_note-19) Other brands, such as Nike, Jordan, FUBU (/wiki/FUBU) , Southpole (/wiki/Southpole_(clothing)) , Reebok Pro-Keds (/wiki/Pro-Keds) , Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) , Eckō Unltd. (/wiki/Eck%C5%8D_Unltd.) , Walker Wear, Mecca USA, Lugz (/wiki/Lugz) , Rocawear (/wiki/Rocawear) , Boss Jeans by IG Design, and Enyce (/wiki/Enyce) , arose to capitalize on the market for urban streetwear. [ citation needed ] Throwback clothing [ edit ] Bling-bling jewelry worn by Jim Jones (/wiki/Jim_Jones_(rapper)) and Juelz Santana (/wiki/Juelz_Santana) of Dipset (/wiki/The_Diplomats) This section possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hip_hop_fashion&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( January 2010 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) One sportswear trend that emerged was the rise in popularity of throwback jerseys (/wiki/Throwback_jersey) , such as those produced by Mitchell & Ness (/wiki/Mitchell_%26_Ness) . Sports jerseys have always been popular in hip hop fashion, as evidenced by Will Smith (/wiki/Will_Smith) 's early 1990s video " Summertime (/wiki/Summertime_(DJ_Jazzy_Jeff_and_the_Fresh_Prince_song)) ", and Spike Lee (/wiki/Spike_Lee) wearing a throwback Brooklyn Dodgers (/wiki/Brooklyn_Dodgers) jersey in the film Do the Right Thing (/wiki/Do_the_Right_Thing) . The late 1990s saw the rise in popularity of very expensive throwbacks, often costing hundreds of dollars. Hip hop artists donning the pricey jerseys in music videos led to increased demand, and led to the rise of counterfeiters flooding the market with fake jerseys to capitalize on the craze. The mid-to-late 2000s saw a decrease in popularity of throwbacks, with some hip hop artists even shunning them. [ citation needed ] The "hip-pop" era also saw the split between male and female hip hop fashion, which had previously been more or less similar. Women in hip hop had emulated the male tough-guy fashions such as baggy pants (/wiki/Baggy_pants) , "Loc" sunglasses, tough looks and heavy workboats; many, such as Da Brat (/wiki/Da_Brat) , accomplished this with little more than some lip gloss and a bit of make-up to make the industrial work pants and work boots feminine. The female performers who completely turned the tide, such as Lil' Kim (/wiki/Lil%27_Kim) and Foxy Brown (/wiki/Foxy_Brown_(rapper)) , popularized glamorous, high-fashion feminine hip hop styles, such as Kimora Lee Simmons (/wiki/Kimora_Lee_Simmons) ' fashion line of Baby Phat (/wiki/Baby_Phat) . Lauryn Hill (/wiki/Lauryn_Hill) and Eve (/wiki/Eve_(entertainer)) popularized more conservative styles that still maintained both a distinctly feminine and distinctly hip hop feel. [ citation needed ] Bling [ edit ] Main article: Bling Bling (/wiki/Bling_Bling) In the mid-to-late 1990s, platinum replaced gold as the metal of choice in hip hop fashion. [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Artists and fans alike wore platinum (or silver (/wiki/Silver) -colored) jewelry, often embedded with diamonds (/wiki/Diamond) . Juvenile (/wiki/Juvenile_(rapper)) and The Hot Boys (/wiki/The_Hot_Boys) were largely responsible for this trend. [5] (#cite_note-keyes152-5) Platinum fronts also became popular; Cash Money Records (/wiki/Cash_Money_Records) executive/ rapper (/wiki/Rapper) Brian "Baby" Williams (/wiki/Brian_%22Baby%22_Williams) has an entire mouthful of permanent platinum teeth. Others have fashioned grills (/wiki/Grills_(cosmetic_dental_apparati)) , removable metal jeweled teeth coverings. With the advent of the jewelry culture, the turn-of-the-century-established luxury brands made inroads into the hip hop market, with brands like Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) , Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) and 212 Diamond City making appearances in hip hop videos and films. Modern (2000s–2020s) [ edit ] This section possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hip_hop_fashion&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( January 2010 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Hip-hop fashion from the 1980s to 2011 has undergone numerous changes, with new trends emerging and old trends resurfacing. Some of the most popular styles during this period include snapbacks, sportswear, basketball and skateboarding shoes, hoodies, piercings in one or both ears, leather jackets, sleeveless shirts, polo shirts, baggy pants, bikini tops, crop tops, tube tops, tank tops, factory tracksuits, and cropped T-shirts. These items of clothing have become iconic in hip-hop culture, with many artists and fans incorporating them into their personal style. [20] (#cite_note-20) Streetwear [ edit ] Kanye West wearing drop crotch pants (/wiki/Drop_crotch_pants) In the 1990s and beyond, many hip hop artists and executives started their own fashion labels and clothing lines. [21] (#cite_note-21) Notable examples include Wu-Tang Clan (/wiki/Wu-Tang_Clan) ( Wu-Wear (/wiki/Wu-Wear) ), Pharrell (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) ( Billionaire Boys Club/Ice Cream (/wiki/Billionaire_Boys_Club_(clothing_retailer)) ), Nelly (/wiki/Nelly) ( Vokal (/wiki/Vokal_europe) and Apple Bottom Jeans (/wiki/Apple_Bottom_Jeans) ), Russell Simmons (/wiki/Russell_Simmons) ( Phat Farm (/wiki/Phat_Farm) ), Kimora Lee Simmons (/wiki/Kimora_Lee_Simmons) ( Baby Phat (/wiki/Baby_Phat) ), Diddy (/wiki/Sean_Combs) ( Sean John (/wiki/Sean_John) and Enyce (/wiki/Enyce) ), T.I. (/wiki/Clifford_Harris) ( AKOO (/wiki/A.K.O.O_Clothing) ), Damon Dash (/wiki/Damon_Dash) and Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) ( Rocawear (/wiki/Rocawear) ), 50 Cent (/wiki/50_Cent) ( G-Unit (/wiki/G-Unit) Clothing), Eminem (/wiki/Eminem) ( Shady Limited (/wiki/Shady_Records) ), 2Pac (/wiki/2Pac) (Makaveli Branded), OutKast (/wiki/OutKast) (OutKast Clothing), Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) (Trukfit), Young Thug (/wiki/Young_Thug) (Sp5der), and Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) (Yeezy). Up-and-coming urban clothing lines have dominated the fashion in the hip hop genre. Skinny jeans also came into style in part due to New Boyz' jerk dance from the song " You're a Jerk (/wiki/You%27re_a_Jerk) ". [ citation needed ] The resurgence of Adidas track jackets and the incorporation of fashion scarves are some of the latest trends to emerge in hip hop fashion. While Adidas tracksuits have been a part of hip hop culture since the commercialization of the genre, they have recently regained popularity. [ citation needed ] Skateboarding fashion has been used in the hip hop scene since the early 2010s, including knit caps, bonnets, fitted pants or shorts, Vans (/wiki/Vans) , Nike SB (/wiki/Nike_SB) (skateboarding), shirts with sleeves and printed Tees (brands like OBEY, Supreme, Stussy, Adidas, Supra, Circa, DC (/wiki/DC_Shoes) , RDS and Emericas). Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown_(American_singer)) , Tyler, the Creator (/wiki/Tyler,_the_Creator) and Lil Wayne wear these in their music videos and concerts. [ citation needed ] The rebirth of the 1990s snapback caps (/wiki/Snapback_(hat)) is the most notable sign of the new school throwback image. The "new" snapback hype started around mid-2010. Around late 2010 and early 2011, the "new" snapback movement exploded. Starter Clothing Line (/wiki/Starter_Clothing_Line) manufactured the most sought-after snapbacks in the 1990s, and made its return as the hype for the hats grew. Many other well-known hat companies started to sell snapbacks, such as New Era (/wiki/New_Era_Cap_Company) , Mitchell & Ness (/wiki/Mitchell_%26_Ness) , Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) , and Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) . Many notable artists are credited with the comeback of snapbacks by sporting gear from a company named Ti$A VI$ION. Chris Brown, Tyga (/wiki/Tyga) , and Big Sean (/wiki/Big_Sean) were among the early supporters of this company since 2010. Many urban fashionistas credit Mac Miller (/wiki/Mac_Miller) , a well-known YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) MC, with starting the hype with the release of his song entitled "Snap Back", from the mixtape The Jukebox: Prelude to Class Clown , released in June 2009. There is controversy as to who started the "new" snapback trend. [ citation needed ] Skater culture is also prominent in the Hip-Hop scene. The boost in its popularity is largely attributed to alternative (/wiki/Alternative_hip_hop) rapper and leader of the musical group Odd Future (/wiki/Odd_Future) , Tyler, The Creator (/wiki/Tyler,_The_Creator) . Brands like Obey, Supreme, Thrasher, and Tyler, the Creator's merchandise line, Golf Wang (/wiki/Golf_Wang) have also boosted the significance of skater fashion in Hip-Hop. [22] (#cite_note-22) Designer clothing [ edit ] The hip hop fashion trends of the 2000s were all over the place and changed constantly, starting with the baller-type image. Michael Jordan's cover on Sports Illustrated was significant in hip-hop fashion because he was able to influence millions of people into the direction of baggy shorts, baggy tops, and gold chains. There have been other celebrity influences among fashion trends, with most of these influences coming from hip hop artists. Gucci and Louis Vuitton became extremely popular among the hip hop/urban community from the use of the words, "Gucci" and "Louis" in lyrics and music videos. [ citation needed ] During this time period, many fashion trends from the 1980s and early 1990s experienced a resurgence in popularity. For example, door knocker earrings and form-fitting jeans for men came back into style. Cartoon graphic print hoodies by Bathing Ape (/wiki/A_Bathing_Ape) , as popularized by artist and producer Pharrell, also gained popularity. Women continued to wear high heels in various forms, and new shoe styles emerged, such as the open-toed boot. [23] (#cite_note-23) Around 2012, fashion in hip hop saw a shift towards modern "high" streetwear and haute couture brands popularized by online fashion forums such as Superfuture and Styleforum. Brands such as Rick Owens (/wiki/Rick_Owens) , Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) , and Saint Laurent Paris (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) are now featured prominently in the lyrics and wardrobes of rappers such as A$AP Rocky (/wiki/A$AP_Rocky) , Travis Scott (/wiki/Travis_Scott) , and Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) . [24] (#cite_note-24) Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) and his numerous face tattoos (/wiki/Face_tattoos) Tattoos [ edit ] In recent years, the hip hop world has seen a resurgence of old fads as well as the emergence of new ones. The last few years of the first decade of the new millennia gave rise to the popularity of tattoos covering artists from head to toe. Soulja Boy (/wiki/Soulja_Boy) , Wiz Khalifa (/wiki/Wiz_Khalifa) , Lil Wayne (/wiki/Lil_Wayne) and Tyga (/wiki/Tyga) have set the trend of being completely "tatted up." [25] (#cite_note-25) Birdman (/wiki/Birdman_(rapper)) now sports a star tattoo on the crown of his head, Gucci Mane (/wiki/Gucci_Mane) has an ice cream tattoo on his right cheek, and Lil Wayne has tattoos on his eyelids and forehead. [26] (#cite_note-26) Women's hair [ edit ] When discussing fashion trends, one cannot overlook the significance of hairstyles, particularly for women. In recent years, there has been a revival of the asymmetrical haircut with a modern twist. Celebrities like Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , Cassie (/wiki/Cassie_Ventura) , and Kelis (/wiki/Kelis) have all helped popularize the trend of the half-shaven head. [27] (#cite_note-27) Face coverings [ edit ] Fashion scarves have also gained popularity in recent years. Kanye West is one of the latest artists to launch his own line of products, selling decorative scarves with provocative depictions under the name Risque Scarves. [28] (#cite_note-28) In the 2020's, balaclavas (known as "shiesty masks") have become popular. The rapper Yeat (/wiki/Yeat) has also popularized wearing distressed balaclavas and scarves tied as turbans. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) Overlap with punk fashion [ edit ] Around 2019, a fashion trend emerged coined as the "Opium" aesthetic, named after Playboi Carti's record label (/wiki/Opium_(label)) . The label includes Ken Carson (/wiki/Ken_Carson) , Destroy Lonely (/wiki/Destroy_Lonely) , and Homixide Gang, although related acts such as "Burberry Erry" (Erik Artega), "F1lthy, and " Oji (/wiki/Ojivolta) " are also notable contributors to the punk-like aesthetic. The aesthetic and fashion trend focuses around dark monochrome, usually black clothing, Gothic structures (/wiki/Gothic_architecture) , and high streetwear and avant-garde brands such as Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , Rick Owens (/wiki/Rick_Owens) , Vetements (/wiki/Vetements) , Alyx (/wiki/1017_Alyx_9SM) , Undercover (/wiki/Jun_Takahashi) , and Chrome Hearts (/wiki/Chrome_Hearts) . [31] (#cite_note-31) Glasses [ edit ] Rapper BabyTron (/wiki/BabyTron) wearing a pair of Cartier glasses while performing. Note the white buffalo horn temples. In the mid 2010's to 2020's, luxury glasses made by French brand Cartier (/wiki/Cartier_(jeweler)) have surged in popularity, especially in the Michigan rap scene, but also outside of it. According to Detroit jeweler Tony Bahu, "It started back in the 80s. They started making the main Cartier glasses in 1983, and Detroit came on the scene right away. It was a lot of Detroit auto money." [32] (#cite_note-:3-32) Certain Cartier glasses (colloquially, "buffs", "yays", or "white sticks") have been famous for having temples made out of buffalo horn (/wiki/Ivory) and are widely considered as a status symbol because of their price. [33] (#cite_note-33) Cartier also makes glasses with temples out of metal (gold or silver) or wood, which are called "wires" and "woods", respectively. In 2020, Detroit rapper Gmac Cash (/wiki/Gmac_Cash) attempted to gift a pair of Cartiers to the Governor of Michigan (/wiki/Governor_of_Michigan) , Gretchen Whitmer (/wiki/Gretchen_Whitmer) , but she denied the offer. [34] (#cite_note-34) Rappers such as Quavo (/wiki/Quavo) , [35] (#cite_note-35) Big Sean (/wiki/Big_Sean) , [36] (#cite_note-:4-36) and Icewear Vezzo (/wiki/Icewear_Vezzo) [32] (#cite_note-:3-32) are known for their expensive Cartier sunglasses. The hinges and bridges of designer glasses are also typically "iced" with diamonds, which is part of hip-hop bling (/wiki/Bling-bling) . Sports players in the Detroit Pistons (/wiki/Detroit_Pistons) and Michigan Wolverines (/wiki/Michigan_Wolverines_football) have also worn Cartier glasses. [32] (#cite_note-:3-32) [36] (#cite_note-:4-36) As a negative part of the trend, multiple robberies have occurred in Detroit (/wiki/Detroit) [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) and Washington, D.C. (/wiki/Washington,_D.C.) [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) that were motivated by Cartier glasses. Glasses made by Gucci, Balenciaga, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Prada have also gained popularity. The rapper Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) has also frequently worn shutter shades (/wiki/Shutter_shades) in the 2000's and 2010's, partially for their camp (/wiki/Camp_(style)) value, and shutter shades have become synonymous with Kanye West. [41] (#cite_note-41) Influence [ edit ] As music played a significant role in the way people dressed during the 1990s, many celebrities (/wiki/Celebrities) were known as fashion icons, especially rappers. Legendary rapper, Tupac, was not only known for his resonating lyrics, but also his timeless style. He was seen as a trend setter during that period. His signature, classic style were bandanas paired with baggy overalls or Red Wings jersey. In return, he made bandanas into an iconic headwear accessory. [42] (#cite_note-:1-42) Today, Snoop Dogg's fashion influence has taught society to be more accepting of different styles and has inspired fashion designers from all over the world to be innovative in their designs. Furthermore, Snoop Dogg's influence has taught people that confidence comes with pride, which is the key to feeling comfortable and looking good in your individual fashion style. [43] (#cite_note-:2-43) Moreover, hip hop has also adopted and then transformed traditional or "old world" luxury symbols and made them modern-day, "cool" commodities. Rapper LL Cool J (/wiki/LL_Cool_J) wore a Kangol hat back in the 1980s, when few Americans knew anything about the European hat maker, but its association with hip hop would invigorate the brand. In 2003, London-based Kangol acknowledged the popularity given its sixty-year-old brand by a young LL Cool J in 1983. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) Criticism [ edit ] A DJ (/wiki/Disc_Jockey) wearing a zip-up hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) and checkerboard frame sunglasses Commentators from both inside and outside the hip hop community have criticized the cost of many of the accoutrements of hip hop fashion. Chuck D (/wiki/Chuck_D) of Public Enemy summarized the mentality of hip hop fashion and some low-income youths as "Man, I work at McDonald's, but in order for me to feel good about myself I got to get a gold chain or I got to get a fly car in order to impress a sister or whatever." [44] (#cite_note-keyes172-44) In his 1992 song "Us", Ice Cube (/wiki/Ice_Cube) rapped that "Us niggaz will always sing the blues / 'cause all we care about is hairstyles and tennis shoes". [44] (#cite_note-keyes172-44) Some fans have expressed disappointment with the increased amount of advertising for expensive hip hop brands in hip hop magazines. In one letter to the editor in Source magazine, a reader wrote that the magazine should "try showing some less expensive brands so heads will know they don't have to hustle, steal, or rob and blast shots for flyness." [44] (#cite_note-keyes172-44) There were many highly publicized robberies of hip hop artists by the late 1990s; Guru (/wiki/Guru_(rapper)) of Gang Starr (/wiki/Gang_Starr) was robbed of his Rolex watch at gunpoint, Queen Latifah (/wiki/Queen_Latifah) 's car was car-jacked, and Prodigy (/wiki/Prodigy_(rapper)) was robbed at gunpoint of $300,000 in jewelry. [44] (#cite_note-keyes172-44) Hip hop has sometimes come under fire for glorifying brands that shut it out and for embracing a fashion culture which does not embrace hip hop or black culture. [45] (#cite_note-45) A dichotomy exists in the "collaboration" between influential hip hop artists who embrace designer brands and fashions, and these same brands that profit from hip hop's influencers. Designer brands such as Louis Vuitton or Versace align themselves with influential musicians because of the potential gains, but simultaneously maintain distance from these allies outside of advertising, "almost as with a keen desire to hold the controlling hand in these relationships" and control their public image. [46] (#cite_note-46) In these partnerships/collaborations between designers and artists there is sometimes a pattern of exploitation in which the designers benefit disproportionately more than hip hop artists. A few hip-hop insiders, such as the members of Public Enemy, Immortal Technique (/wiki/Immortal_Technique) , Paris (/wiki/Paris_(rapper)) and Common (/wiki/Common_(rapper)) , have made the deliberate choice not to don expensive jewelry as a statement against materialism (/wiki/Consumerism) . [44] (#cite_note-keyes172-44) Gender roles and dress [ edit ] Women [ edit ] Along with the turning of the tide by select female hip hop artists came the emergence of promoting sex appeal through fashion. Female artists have faced a number of pressures ranging from gaining exposure to further their careers as well as conforming with certain images to remain in demand and relevant. Female rappers in today's time like Cardi B (/wiki/Cardi_B) and Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) are two of the most popular female rappers and still conform to this standard. The alignment of R&B (/wiki/Rhythm_and_blues) music with hip hop music (/wiki/Hip_hop_music) (with collaborations being more and more prevalent) placed a whole new category of women within the categorization of what constituted a hip hop artist. As referenced above, the nineties centered around women's senses of style revolving around that of men, in that they adopted the use of oversized T-shirts and baggy pants. Also listed above are Aaliyah (/wiki/Aaliyah) , TLC (/wiki/TLC_(band)) , and Da' Brat (/wiki/Da_Brat) as conformists to that trend. Female rap group Salt-N-Pepa (/wiki/Salt-n-Pepa) are considered amongst the frontrunners in leading the transition of moving away from the male alignment and asserting feminism in creating a new sense of dress. They are said to have "wowed fans while wearing hot pants, cut-off denim shorts and Lycra body suits". [47] (#cite_note-47) "Black women's relationships to their bodies occur within overlapping cultural contexts that offer contradictory messages about their value and function". [48] (#cite_note-48) In a male dominated society, it is no wonder that women used to work hard to align themselves with male images including how they'd dressed. As women generally gained access to and exposure within the offerings of several sectors of society, for example music, movies and television, we saw more images of what constituted attractiveness emerge. Following this came the perception of freedom to express oneself through several avenues including apparel. Rappers Lil' Kim (/wiki/Lil%27_Kim) and Eve (/wiki/Eve_(entertainer)) are known for resorting to trends surrounding being scantily clad with provocative tattoos and being perceived as attractive in the process. Not all female rappers, or female artists in general have resorted to these methods within their careers. "...the recent appearance of Black women performers, songwriters, and producers in Black popular culture has called attention to the ways in which young Black women use popular culture to negotiate social existence and attempt to express independence, self-reliance, and agency". [49] (#cite_note-49) LGBT community and gender variance [ edit ] Hip hop has had a history of homophobia, only recently becoming more accepting of the LGBT community (/wiki/LGBT_community) . Lyrics that openly use derogatory words such as "fag" or "dyke" have saturated the market, even being found in conscious rap, considered the most progressive section of hip hop. Marc Lamont Hill argues, "the progressive agendas of political rap artists such as Public Enemy, X-Clan, Paris, and Sista Souljah were strongly informed by radical Afrocentric, Black Islamic, and crude Black Nationalist ideologies that were openly hostile to queer identities". [50] (#cite_note-50) The hip hop genre has been traditionally viewed as a predominantly hyper-masculine community, with female artists adopting traits traditionally associated with men. Female artists such as Young M.A (/wiki/Young_M.A) ., Conscious Daughters (/wiki/The_Conscious_Daughters) , and Aaliyah (/wiki/Aaliyah) have often dressed in clothing typically considered masculine, wearing baggy clothes and other traditionally masculine clothing items. However, men have also begun to explore reversing gender roles through their fashion choices. Artists like Kid Cudi (/wiki/Kid_Cudi) , Lil Wayne, A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, Young Thug (/wiki/Young_Thug) , and other self-identified straight men have made headlines for their androgynous dress. And while this style may seem new, it is not exclusive to recent times - even the early years of hip hop saw legends dressed in the disco styles of the era. [51] (#cite_note-51) Rappers like Lil Uzi Vert (/wiki/Lil_Uzi_Vert) and Lil B (/wiki/Lil_B) have also challenged norms by redefining fashion in hip-hop. Their bold choices, from Uzi's avant-garde streetwear to Lil B's eclectic and gender-fluid styles, sparked conversations about self-expression and identity. Through their attire, they broke down stereotypes and embraced individuality, inspiring a new generation to embrace diversity in fashion. [52] (#cite_note-52) See also [ edit ] Fresh Dressed (/wiki/Fresh_Dressed) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "The Complete Story Of How Hip-Hop Changed The Way We Dress" (https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/hip-hop-style/) . FashionBeans . Retrieved 2019-08-01 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Kitwana, Bakari (2005). The Hip-Hop Generation: Young Blacks and the Crisis in African-American Culture . New York: Basic Civitas Books. p. 198. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-465-02979-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Backpiece jackets - the evolution of the painted jacket by Niklas Worisch - Issuu" (https://issuu.com/niklasworisch/docs/backpiece_jackets_web_final) . 30 May 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Cochrane, Lauren (2005-09-02). "Specs appeal" (http://shopping.guardian.co.uk/beauty/story/0,,1561369,00.html) . The Guardian . London . Retrieved 2010-05-04 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j Keyes, p. 152. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Quoted in Keyes, p. 152 (quoting Schoolly D. "The Meaning of Gold." (https://books.google.com/books?id=ozV_Wa_c470C&dq=The%20Meaning%20of%20Gold%20Schoolly%20D&pg=PA52) Spin (October 1988), p. 52). ^ Jump up to: a b c d Lewis/Gray, Tasha/Natalie (2013). "The Maturation of hip hop's Menswear Brands: Outfitting the Urban Consumer". Fashion Practice . 5 (2): 229–243. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2752/175693813X13705243201531 (https://doi.org/10.2752%2F175693813X13705243201531) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 111293111 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:111293111) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Kitwana, Bakari. hip hop & High Society . Black Book Spring. pp. 112–17. ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Hip Hop Fashion in the 90s" (http://filthydripped.com/hip-hop-fashion-in-the-90s/) . filthydripped.com . 6 November 2015 . Retrieved 2018-04-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-mtv_10-0) Hall, Rashaun (2004-10-07). "Lloyd Banks, Eminem Help Kwame Set The Polka Dots 'On Fire' (https://web.archive.org/web/20050205145029/http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1492009/20041007/story.jhtml) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20050205145029/http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1492009/20041007/story.jhtml) . MTV.com (/wiki/MTV.com) . Archived from the original (http://www.mtv.com/news/articles/1492009/20041007/story.jhtml) on 2005-02-05 . Retrieved 2023-09-24 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "How Has Hip Hop Influenced Fashion?" (https://www.leaf.tv/articles/how-has-hip-hop-influenced-fashion/) . LEAFtv . Retrieved 2018-04-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Run-D.M.C.'s 'My Adidas' and the Birth of Hip Hop Sneaker Culture" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/video/run-d-m-c-s-adidas-birth-hip-hop-sneaker-culture) . The Business of Fashion . 2014-07-18 . Retrieved 2017-12-06 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Wilbekin, p. 280. ^ (#cite_ref-:02_14-0) Detrick, Ben (2014-12-24). "A '90s Jacket Comes Back Into Fashion" (https://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/25/style/a-90s-jacket-comes-back-into-fashion.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210308090650/https://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/25/style/a-90s-jacket-comes-back-into-fashion.html) from the original on March 8, 2021 . Retrieved 2021-07-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Wilbekin, p. 281. ^ Jump up to: a b c Wilbekin, p. 282. ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Remember When Snoop Dogg Did 'SNL' Doggy Style?" (https://massappeal.com/snoop-dogg-saturday-night-live-dailyop/) . Mass Appeal . 2017-05-08 . Retrieved 2018-04-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "15 Important '90s Hip-Hop Fashion Trends You Might Have Forgotten" (https://www.buzzfeed.com/tanyachen/important-90s-hip-hop-fashion-trends-you-might-have-forgo) . BuzzFeed . Retrieved 2018-04-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Karl Kani (http://www.karlkani.com) ^ (#cite_ref-20) Shackelford, Caroline (2022-02-25). "The Evolution of Hip-Hop Fashion: Origins to Now" (https://hespokestyle.com/hip-hop-fashion/) . He Spoke Style . Retrieved 2023-05-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Wilbekin, p. 283. ^ (#cite_ref-22) Beaumont-Thomas, Ben (2019-11-28). "Heartache in golf shoes: how Odd Future brought fresh energy to rap" (https://www.theguardian.com/music/2019/nov/28/odd-future-tyler-creator-frank-ocean-decade-in-music) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 2023-05-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Claire (2009-12-30). "Take it or Leave It? Top Fashion Trends of 2009" (http://fashionbombdaily.com/2009/12/30/take-it-or-leave-it-top-fashion-trends-of-2009/) . Fashion Bomb Daily Style Magazine . Retrieved 2017-08-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Babcock, Gregory (2015-09-28). "Fitted Is Better than Baggy - '90s Hip-Hop Fashion Trends vs. Today's Trends" (http://www.complex.com/style/2015/09/90s-rapper-fashion-trends-versus-2015/fitted-not-baggy) . Complex . Retrieved 2017-08-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) hop%E2%80%99s-most-off-the-dome-tattoo-addicts/ "Ink Heads, Hip-Hop's Most Off the Dome Tattoo Addicts" (http://www.xxlmag.com/features/2009/12/ink-heads-hip) xxlmag.com, December 1, 2009. Date accessed: May 9, 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Lil Wayne, Gucci Mane And Game: A Journey Into Face Tattoos" (http://rapfix.mtv.com/2011/02/23/lil-wayne-gucci-mane-and-game-a-journey-into-face-tattoos/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150524060803/http://rapfix.mtv.com/2011/02/23/lil-wayne-gucci-mane-and-game-a-journey-into-face-tattoos/) 2015-05-24 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) rapflix.mtv.com, February 23, 2011. Date Accessed: May 9, 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Rihanna's shaved head for 'Italian Vogue (https://web.archive.org/web/20181227234238/https://www.fashionorpassion.com/who-is-rihanna/) ' " (https://web.archive.org/web/20181227234238/https://www.fashionorpassion.com/who-is-rihanna/) . s2smagazine.com, July 7, 2009. Date Accessed: May 10, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Kanye West's Risque Scarf Line Coming Up" (https://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=10150184221838959) . sojones.com, May 9, 2011. Date Accessed: May 10, 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-29) Aufiero, Dana (2023-03-09). "Yeat transitions to the 'AftërLyfe' on experimental third studio album" (https://ourgenerationmusic.com/reviews/yeat-afterlyfe-review/) . Our Generation Music . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Contributor, Adam Delahoussaye (2023-02-27). " (https://www.utdailybeacon.com/arts_and_culture/music/aft-rlyfe-review-the-wide-world-of-yeat/article_0620f0c2-b6cb-11ed-837b-c335bacc705d.html) 'Aftërlyfe' review: The wide world of Yeat" (https://www.utdailybeacon.com/arts_and_culture/music/aft-rlyfe-review-the-wide-world-of-yeat/article_0620f0c2-b6cb-11ed-837b-c335bacc705d.html) . The Daily Beacon . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : |last= has generic name ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_name) ) ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Trippie Redd, Travis Scott, Kid Cudi, and the Commodification of Rage in Rap" (https://pitchfork.com/thepitch/trippie-redd-travis-scott-kid-cudi-commodification-of-rage-in-rap/) . Pitchfork (/wiki/Pitchfork_(website)) . 2021-06-04 . Retrieved 2023-05-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "The Significance of Cartier Glasses Worn By University of Michigan Wolverines" (https://www.npr.org/2024/01/08/1223567715/the-significance-of-the-cartier-glasses-worn-by-the-university-of-michigan-wolve) . NPR . Retrieved 5 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Bailey, Terell (2024-02-28). "Cartier sunglasses: The role on Detroit's culture and city - CBS Detroit" (https://www.cbsnews.com/detroit/news/cartier-sunglasses-detroit-culture/) . www.cbsnews.com . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) DeVito, Lee. "Gov. Whitmer turns down Detroit rapper's gift of Cartier Buffs, money will instead go to charity" (https://www.metrotimes.com/arts/gov-whitmer-turns-down-detroit-rappers-gift-of-cartier-buffs-money-will-instead-go-to-charity-24482935) . Detroit Metro Times . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Nast, Condé. "10 Things Quavo Can't Live Without" (https://www.gq.com/video/watch/10-essentials-gq-10-essentials-quavo) . GQ . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b Coleman, Faith Janet. "Kash Doll gave Big Sean a pair of Cartier sunglasses" (https://www.metrotimes.com/music/kash-doll-gave-big-sean-a-pair-of-cartier-sunglasses-21991242) . Detroit Metro Times . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "Suspect steals victim's Cartier sunglasses at gunpoint at Detroit gas station" (https://www.fox2detroit.com/news/suspect-steals-victims-cartier-sunglasses-at-gunpoint-at-detroit-gas-station) . FOX 2 Detroit . 2023-12-15 . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Greenwood, Tom. "2 charged in armed robbery of Cartier sunglasses" (https://www.detroitnews.com/story/news/local/oakland-county/2015/01/13/charged-armed-robbery-cartier-sunglasses/21682891/) . The Detroit News . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Man shot, robbed of Cartier glasses in northwest DC" (https://www.fox5dc.com/news/man-shot-robbed-of-cartier-glasses-in-northwest-dc) . FOX 5 DC . 2023-12-04 . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Smash-and-grab thieves steal $140K worth of designer sunglasses at the Wharf" (https://www.fox5dc.com/news/thieves-steal-81-glasses-worth-over-140k-from-georgetown-optician-at-the-wharf) . FOX 5 DC . 2023-04-24 . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) Nika, Colleen (2011-08-11). "A Look At Kanye West's Style Evolution" (https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/culture-news/view-from-the-throne-a-look-at-kanye-wests-style-evolution-107104/) . Rolling Stone . Retrieved 2024-05-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-:1_42-0) "The baseball jersey" (http://www.capitalxtra.com/features/lists/rap-fashion-in-the-90s/baseball-jersey/) . Capital XTRA . Retrieved 2018-04-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-:2_43-0) "The Most Stylish Rappers of the '90sMike D" (http://www.complex.com/style/2014/05/the-most-stylish-rappers-of-the-90s/stylish-rappers-90s-mike-d) . Complex . Retrieved 2018-04-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Keyes, p. 172. ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Is Fashion Racist?" (http://live.huffingtonpost.com/r/segment/fashion-hip-hop-kanye-kimmel-classism-model-casting/525840f978c90a26c40004a5/) Hufftington Post Live, October 16, 2013. Date accessed: December 8, 2013 [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-46) Miller, Janice. Fashion and Music. Oxford: Berg, 2011. Print. p. 17 ^ (#cite_ref-47) Hook, Sue Vander (2010). Hip-Hop Fashion . Mankato, Minn.: Capstone Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4296-4017-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) Lovejoy, Meg (April 2001). "Disturbances in the Social Body: Differences in Body Image and Eating Problems among African American and White Women". Gender and Society . 15 (2): 239–261. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1177/089124301015002005 (https://doi.org/10.1177%2F089124301015002005) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 3081846 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/3081846) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 145254943 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:145254943) . ^ (#cite_ref-49) Emerson, Rana (February 2002). " (https://umdrive.memphis.edu/ajohnsn6/rhetoric%20of%20hip%20hop/where%20my%20girls%20at.pdf) "Where My Girls At?": Negotiating Black Womanhood in Music Videos" (https://umdrive.memphis.edu/ajohnsn6/rhetoric%20of%20hip%20hop/where%20my%20girls%20at.pdf) (PDF) . Gender and Society . 16 (1): 115–135. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1177/0891243202016001007 (https://doi.org/10.1177%2F0891243202016001007) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 3081879 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/3081879) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 35432829 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:35432829) . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Hill, Marc Lamont (2009-01-30). "Scared Straight: Hip-Hop, Outing, and the Pedagogy of Queerness". Review of Education, Pedagogy, and Cultural Studies . 31 (1): 29–54. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/10714410802629235 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F10714410802629235) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1071-4413 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1071-4413) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 145555758 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:145555758) . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "Dressing The Part: hip hop, High Fashion & Gender Roles" (https://hiphopdx.com/editorials/id.2063/title.dressing-the-part-hip-hop-high-fashion-gender-roles) . HipHopDX . Retrieved 2020-05-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) yalcinkaya, Gunseli. "Lil B talks feminism, fashion and Frank Ocean" (https://www.dazeddigital.com/music/article/32481/1/lil-b-talks-feminism-fashion-and-frank-ocean) . Dazed.com . dazed . Retrieved 19 April 2024 . Book sources [ edit ] Keyes, Cheryl L. (2004). Rap Music and Street Consciousness (1st ed.). Urbana: University of Illinois Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-252-07201-7 . Wilbekin, Emil (1999). "Great Aspirations: hip hop and Fashion Dress for Excess and Success". The Vibe History of hip hop (1st ed.). New York: Three Rivers Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-609-80503-9 . Further reading [ edit ] Krishnamurthy, Sowmya (2023). Fashion Killa: How Hip-Hop Revolutionized High Fashion . Gallery Books. 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Distinctive cap style worn by the Australian cricket team Left: Former Australian captain Joe Darling (/wiki/Joe_Darling) sporting the baggy green in the early 1900s Right: Steve Waugh (/wiki/Steve_Waugh) wearing his well-worn baggy green cap in 2002 The baggy green is a cricket cap (/wiki/Cricket_cap) of dark myrtle green (/wiki/Shades_of_green#Mint_green) colour, which has been worn by Australian Test cricketers (/wiki/List_of_Australia_Test_cricketers) since around the turn of the 20th century. The cap was not originally baggy as evidenced by photographs of early players. The cap has long been a symbol of national pride in Australia, [1] (#cite_note-1) and was described by the chief executive of the MCC (/wiki/Marylebone_Cricket_Club) as the "most famous cricket cap in the world". [2] (#cite_note-2) While respect for the baggy green cap has always been very high, it has grown in stature since the 1990s, chiefly due to the efforts of captains Mark Taylor (/wiki/Mark_Taylor_(cricketer)) and Steve Waugh (/wiki/Steve_Waugh) . Waugh regularly expressed his belief that the honouring of the traditions of the game was critical to the success of a team: "To be able to partake of these rituals and traditions has meant you have been awarded the highest honour in Australian cricket — you have been selected to play for your country." [3] (#cite_note-3) The cap illustrated (with an enlargement of the device it bears) on a cigarette card (/wiki/Cigarette_card) from 1928 The baggy green cap was originally supplied to the player as part of a kit of equipment, and a new one was routinely issued for each tour, with the year number on it. Former Australian players have been known to use the cap for 'non-cricketing' purposes. Bill Lawry (/wiki/Bill_Lawry) used the cap while cleaning his pigeon's nest, while Bill Ponsford (/wiki/Bill_Ponsford) was known to wear the cap to protect his hair while painting the fence in front of his house. Ian Chappell (/wiki/Ian_Chappell) never kept any of his baggy green caps. In the early 1990s an unofficial practice emerged amongst test players never to replace a baggy green cap, most notably by Steve Waugh. [4] (#cite_note-4) Although there is no official rule against a player obtaining a replacement cap from Cricket Australia (/wiki/Cricket_Australia) , this almost never occurs, and the increasingly dilapidated state of an ageing baggy green cap is a symbol of seniority amongst the players in the team. During his captaincy Taylor instituted a pre-match ceremony (/wiki/Pre-game_ceremony) for the awarding of a cap. This continued under Waugh, who introduced a refinement whereby new players would receive their "baggy green" from a past player of a similar discipline (batsman, spin bowler, etc.). Ponting (/wiki/Ricky_Ponting) changed it again, making the presentation himself rather than using a former player. Another tradition instituted by Taylor (but suggested by Steve Waugh, [5] (#cite_note-5) and one that has also continued) is the practice of all players wearing the cap during the first session in the field of a Test match, as a symbol of solidarity. Even Shane Warne (/wiki/Shane_Warne) , known for his preference for a floppy sun hat (/wiki/Sun_hat) , observed this tradition without question. [6] (#cite_note-6) Modern players seldom wear the baggy green cap while batting, choosing a protective helmet instead, especially when facing faster bowlers. Baggy green caps can in some cases be prized as valuable sporting memorabilia. The cap worn by Sir Donald Bradman (/wiki/Donald_Bradman) during his final season in 1948 sold in 2003 for A$425,000, and the 1953 cap of Keith Miller (/wiki/Keith_Miller) sold at auction for A$35,000. [7] (#cite_note-7) Even the caps of lesser-known players have fetched figures above A$10,000. [8] (#cite_note-8) The baggy green of Shane Warne (/wiki/Shane_Warne) was sold at auction, purchased by the Commonwealth Bank (/wiki/Commonwealth_Bank) in January 2020 for A$1,007,500. Warne's cap is to be taken on a national tour, and subsequently put on display in the International Cricket Hall of Fame (/wiki/International_Cricket_Hall_of_Fame) . The proceeds from the auction were used to support emergency services responding to 2019–20 Australian bushfire season (/wiki/2019%E2%80%9320_Australian_bushfire_season) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Ellyse Perry (/wiki/Ellyse_Perry) wearing the women's baggy green, with red text on a gold background See also [ edit ] Australia portal (/wiki/Portal:Australia) Cricket portal (/wiki/Portal:Cricket) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Cricket cap (/wiki/Cricket_cap) Baseball cap (/wiki/Baseball_cap) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Flat cap (/wiki/Flat_cap) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Salute the Baggy Green giants" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/cricket/3058717.stm) . News.bbc.co.uk . 11 July 2003 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "MCC / Albion: historic commercial joint venture" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070927184410/http://www.lords.org/latest-news/news-archive/mcc-albion-historic-commercial-joint-venture,259,NS.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.lords.org/latest-news/news-archive/mcc-albion-historic-commercial-joint-venture,259,NS.html) on 27 September 2007 . Retrieved 29 December 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The importance of rituals" (https://web.archive.org/web/20020312051900/http://www.hinduonnet.com/tss/tss2445/24450340.htm) . 12 March 2002. Archived from the original on 12 March 2002 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: unfit URL ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_unfit_URL) ) ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Capping Waugh's career" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/cricket/specials/australia_v_south_africa/1753199.stm) . News.bbc.co.uk . 10 January 2002 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Fahey, Michael; Coward, Mike (August 2008). The Baggy Green: The Pride, Passion and History of Australia's Sporting Icon . The Cricket Publishing Co. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0977563111 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Daily Star Web Edition Vol. 4 Num 47" (http://archive.thedailystar.net/2003/07/12/d30712040427.htm) . Archive.thedailystar.net . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Leski Auctions | Auction House Melbourne | Antiques & Collectables" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070110223406/http://www.leski.com.au/news/20050323/index.php) . Leski.com.au . Archived from the original (https://www.leski.com.au/content/) on 10 January 2007 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Waugh's other cap may end up as moth food after sale stalls" (https://www.smh.com.au/sport/cricket/waughs-other-cap-may-end-up-as-moth-food-after-sale-stalls-20050517-gdlc30.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald (/wiki/The_Sydney_Morning_Herald) . 17 May 2005 . Retrieved 17 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Warne's baggy green cap sold for more than $1 million" (https://www.smh.com.au/sport/cricket/warne-s-baggy-green-cap-sold-for-more-than-1-million-20200110-p53qay.html) . 10 January 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200111011012/https://www.smh.com.au/sport/cricket/warne-s-baggy-green-cap-sold-for-more-than-1-million-20200110-p53qay.html?js-chunk-not-found-refresh=true) from the original on 11 January 2020 . Retrieved 11 January 2020 . Further reading [ edit ] Lenehan, Martin (2019). Baggy Green Legends: Tales of Pride, Passion & Patriotism . Sydney: Bauer Media Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781925695922 . 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A person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally For other uses, see Tailor (disambiguation) (/wiki/Tailor_(disambiguation)) . "Tailoring" redirects here. For the clothing made by a tailor's measurements, see Bespoke tailoring (/wiki/Bespoke_tailoring) . 1955 photo of a tailor at work in Wales (/wiki/Wales) A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. [1] (#cite_note-dictionary-1) The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. [2] (#cite_note-bridgland-2) Fuliru tailor named Dorcas in Democratic Republic of Congo (/wiki/Democratic_Republic_of_Congo) History [ edit ] Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory (/wiki/Prehistory) , there is evidence of tailor shops in Ancient Greece (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) and Rome (/wiki/Ancient_Rome) , as well as tailoring tools such as irons (/wiki/Clothes_iron) and shears (/wiki/Scissors) . [3] (#cite_note-manchester-3) The profession of tailor in Europe became formalized in the High Middle Ages (/wiki/High_Middle_Ages) through the establishment of guilds (/wiki/Guilds) . Tailors' guilds instituted a system of masters (/wiki/Master_craftsman) , journeymen (/wiki/Journeyman) , and apprentices (/wiki/Apprentices) . Guild members established rules to limit competition and establish quality standards. [4] (#cite_note-prog-4) In 1244, members of the tailor's guild in Bologna (/wiki/Bologna) established statutes to govern their profession and required anyone working as a tailor to join the guild. [5] (#cite_note-epstein-5) In England, the Statute of Artificers (/wiki/Statute_of_Artificers_1562) , passed in 1563, included the profession of tailor [a] (#cite_note-6) as one of the trades that could be entered only by serving a term of apprenticeship, typically seven years. [6] (#cite_note-woodward-7) A typical tailor shop would have a master, a foreman, several journeymen, and apprentices. The apprentices, often beginning their training as young adolescents and indentured to the master by their parents (for a fee), performed menial tasks such as cleaning, managing the fires to heat the pressing-irons, running errands, and matching fabric and trims. Apprentices were also taught the " tailor's posture ", to sit cross-legged on a raised board or bench while they sewed. [7] (#cite_note-ferguson-8) A tailoring establishment then generally consisted of a well-appointed room in which the master would measure customers. Cutting, sewing, buttonholes, and finishing work were performed in adjoining rooms. [8] (#cite_note-linebaugh-9) : 241–8 Master Tailor Agne Wideheim (1918–2007), Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) , in the tailor's posture In England, there were many negative associations with the profession of tailoring. Tailors were often called "snips", "bodkins", "thimbles", "shreds", "stiches" [ sic (/wiki/Sic) ], and "geese" (referring to the tailor's "goose" or iron). In William Shakespeare (/wiki/William_Shakespeare) 's plays, a tailor was variously called a "thread", a "thimble", and a "rag". By reputation, tailors were generally presumed to drink to excess and to have effeminate (/wiki/Effeminacy) tendencies (likely because of the view of sewing as a woman's activity). Tailors were presumed to be physically weak and to have delicate constitutions. It was commonly asserted that their diets consisted of cabbage. [b] (#cite_note-10) In comics, they were portrayed as cuckolds or henpecked husbands. A common saying at the time was "Nine tailors make a man". [7] (#cite_note-ferguson-8) As with other artisanal trades, tailors relied on the "house of call" or "call houses", a trade club at which they could procure workmen. Sometimes, a skilled journeyman assigned by the call house would be taken on permanently by the master. Master tailors who failed to comply with laws of wages or hours could lose access to the call houses, and journeymen whose work was reported as poor could be removed from the call book. [7] (#cite_note-ferguson-8) Many tailors became virtually blind from the extensive hours of stitching by hand with only candelight to illumine the work. The call for tailoring peaked in the winter, and tailors were often unemployed for several months over the summer. [8] (#cite_note-linebaugh-9) : 241–8 During the 18th century, the profession began to shift toward large-scale and specialized production. A hierarchy of skills resulted, with the most prestigious level reserved for those who cut the cloth. "Mere sewers" ranked below the "cutters". More respect was given to those who worked in a master's workshop than those who took in piecework in their own home. Tasks grew more specialized; by the end of the century, one individual might focus solely on collars and sleeves. [7] (#cite_note-ferguson-8) The trade was one of the first in England to exhibit labor disputes, with tailors frequently on strike against lengthy working hours, low wages, and the use of laborers outside the workshop such as women and children. The strikes generally failed; some participants were imprisoned or transported (/wiki/Penal_transportation) to America or Australia. The unrest eventually influenced Parliament to establish rules for wages, hours, and working conditions in the tailoring industry. [7] (#cite_note-ferguson-8) Tailors were one of the first trades in England to form a labor union. [8] (#cite_note-linebaugh-9) : 241–8 The British census in 1851 identified 152,672 tailors, more than the entire railway industry at the time, and that number increased throughout the century. [c] (#cite_note-11) By then, living and working conditions of many tailors had deteriorated, but the trade was still the fourth largest of London professions. One factor was the growing availability and popularity of "slops": cheap ready-made clothing. [d] (#cite_note-12) Another was a shift from the vast majority of tailors being engaged in workshops to most working outside the shops of employers. Master tailors who relied on outside workers saved themselves the costs of lighting and heating, as well as some supplies. Rather than pay for foremen to supervise the work, masters would fine the outside workers for inferior products. Using outside workers also freed masters from the legal constraints that dictated hours and wages. Tailors who worked outside of workshops began to use their wives and family members in manufacturing garments, which increased their production to maximize their incomes. Some tailors would subcontract aspects of the work to laborers. The house of call system was abandoned. When the Statute of Artificers was repealed in 1814, it abolished the apprenticeship requirement and so tailors could no longer control admission to the trade. Tailor strikes in 1827 and 1834 were largely motivated by opposition to employing women as outworkers. Unlike other industries, in which technological advances contributed to decline of trades, the changes to the work methods in the tailoring industry that led to its decline had occurred several decades before the development of the mechanical sewing machine. [7] (#cite_note-ferguson-8) Tailoring [ edit ] A bespoke suit (/wiki/Bespoke_tailoring) requires a “skeleton fitting” in which the garment is only partially made in order to correct minor deficiencies in fit Tailoring men's jackets by adding underlayers of padding became fashionable in Europe by the 14th century. Over the years, additional areas were padded to provide an understructure that helped the garment lie neatly on the body. By the 19th century, well-tailored garments were carefully fit to the wearer with a more subtly shaped understructure. Even with the advent of modern machines, nearly 75 percent of a custom-tailored suit's stitching is still done by hand. [9] (#cite_note-cabrera-13) The earliest extant work on cutting by tailors is from Spain in 1580. Juan de Alcega (/wiki/Juan_de_Alcega) , a Spanish tailor in the 16th century, published Libro de Geometría, practica, y traça ( Book on Geometry, Practice, and Pattern ) [e] (#cite_note-14) which documented methods of laying out patterns to achieve the most economical use of the fabric. Alcega illustrated 163 patterns to scale in 23 categories of men's and women's garments. [10] (#cite_note-seligman-15) : 2–3 Master tailors used proprietary methods for creating their clothing patterns. [11] (#cite_note-roetzel-16) Up until approximately 1790, patterns (/wiki/History_of_sewing_patterns) to be used for cutting were considered trade secrets to be exclusively owned by the masters. By the late 18th century, publications that not only printed patterns but also gave directions for cutting and layout were widely available. [8] (#cite_note-linebaugh-9) : 438–9 In addition to patterns and templates, some master tailors and cutters use the rock of eye method of cutting: which is a freehand way of drafting a pattern by trusting your eye and experience rather than focusing on numbers. Instead of using pencil to draft the pattern, the rock of eye typically involves chalk to mark. [12] (#cite_note-17) [10] (#cite_note-seligman-15) : 7 [13] (#cite_note-williams-18) Regional styles [ edit ] Seamstress at work. Buryatia (/wiki/Buryatia) , Russia Just as there are various methods of tailoring, there are also styles that differ regionally. This is due to different climates and cultures in the world, causing "house style" cuts of the trade. British cut [ edit ] The silhouette of a British cut suit is influenced by military tailoring, with a defined waist and shoulders. The target image is that of an upper-class gentleman. [11] (#cite_note-roetzel-16) The British cut of tailoring can be defined by various ways of inner construction. Since the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) has a cooler climate than (for example) the Mediterranean, the cut of the British is more heavy, with a more military influence. This style of canvassing has 3 layers, a wool or camel-hair canvas for the body, a horsehair chest piece for the breast area, and a flannel domette for a more masculine (/wiki/Masculine) pronounced bulk. The shoulders of the British are more padded. The fabrics used by the British are in the range of 9-13 oz due to the colder climate. This style of cut can be credited to Henry Poole & Co (/wiki/Henry_Poole_%26_Co) , and H. Huntsman & Sons (/wiki/H._Huntsman_%26_Sons) . The British are also credited in creating their ever-so-popular trademark, the Drape cut (/wiki/Drape_suit) , credited to Frederick Scholte (/wiki/Frederick_Scholte) who trained the founders of Anderson & Sheppard (/wiki/Anderson_%26_Sheppard) . Italian cut [ edit ] An Italian cut suit offers a flattering shape with soft tailoring, aiming for the most attractive appearance for the wearer. A suit jacket in northern Italy will usually have a square shoulder, while in southern Italy, the preference is for a more natural shoulder. [11] (#cite_note-roetzel-16) Like the British cut, the Italian cut is defined by its inner construction. Since Italy (/wiki/Italy) lies in southern Europe and has a warm climate, the Italian (/wiki/Italy) tailors developed a cut that was light and cooler to coincide with the conditions. What they developed is called the Italian/European cut. This cut is more light, with fabrics ranging from 7-9 oz. This way of doing canvas has a range of 1-2 layers, a linen body canvas, and a light horsehair canvas. The Italian shoulder is more natural, and sometimes has a "shirt sleeve" with a roping head. The cut is also slimmer than the British, with a more casual setting. The tailors credited with these cuts are Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(brand)) and Rubinacci (/wiki/Rubinacci) . Bespoke suits created by an Italian tailor are called su misura . The average cost of a su misura suit is between €1,700 and €3,000 , although one might cost more than €5,000 from the finest tailoring houses. A master tailor can create a suit in approximately 40 hours. The number of tailors in Italy decreases at a rate of 8 percent annually, with fewer than 750 tailors as of 2016. [14] (#cite_note-carby-19) American cut [ edit ] The American cut of tailoring is a mix of the Italian and the British ways. The American cut is more baggy and full, with a natural shoulder that is lightly padded. American tailoring usually involves doing light canvas, where only the canvas and the flannel domette are used. The most well-known cut developed by the Americans is the Ivy League (/wiki/Ivy_League) cut. The tailors credited with this cut remain anonymous. [15] (#cite_note-gazette-20) See also [ edit ] Bespoke tailoring (/wiki/Bespoke_tailoring) Made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-6) In the 1563 Statute of Artificers, the profession was spelled Taylours . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Historically, tailors often supplemented their income with leftover fabric scraps, called "cabbage" in the trade. ^ (#cite_ref-11) The 1851 census identified 63,496 individuals engaged in the railway industry, including clerks, drivers, and station attendants. ^ (#cite_ref-12) The term "slops" had previously referred specifically to sailors' clothing and bedding. ^ (#cite_ref-14) A copy of the 1589 edition of Alcega's book is housed at the National Art Library (/wiki/National_Art_Library) in London. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-dictionary_1-0) "Definition of tailor" (https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/tailor) . Merriam-Webster . 6 September 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-bridgland_2-0) Bridgland, A.S. (2013) [1928]. The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier Vol 1 . UK: Read Books Ltd. p. 3. The Oxford English Dictionary states that the word 'tailor' first came into usage around the 1290s, and undoubtedly by this point, tailoring guilds, as well as those of cloth merchants and weavers were well established across Europe. ^ (#cite_ref-manchester_3-0) Manchester, H. H. (1917). "The Story of the Tailor Shop" (https://books.google.com/books?id=9N42AQAAMAAJ&dq=history+of+tailor+guild&pg=RA5-PA46) . Progressive Tailor . No. Autumn and Winter. p. 77. ^ (#cite_ref-prog_4-0) Manchester, H. H. (1917). "The History of the Tailor Shop" (https://books.google.com/books?id=9N42AQAAMAAJ&dq=history+of+tailor+guild&pg=RA5-PA46) . Progressive Tailor . No. Autumn and Winter. p. 46. ^ (#cite_ref-epstein_5-0) Epstein, S.A. (1991). Wage Labor and Guilds in Medieval Europe . University of North Carolina Press. pp. 82–83. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8078-4498-4 . Retrieved April 16, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-woodward_7-0) Woodward, Donald (February 1980). "The Background to the Statute of Artificers". The Economic History Review . 33 (1): 32–44. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Ferguson, Christopher (2016). "The Tailors' Industrial Revolution". An Artisan Intellectual: James Carter and the Rise of Modern Britain, 1792-1853 . Louisiana State University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780807163818 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Linebaugh, Peter (2003). The London hanged : crime and civil society in the eighteenth century . London: Verso. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-85984-638-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-cabrera_13-0) Cabrera, Roberto; Flaherty Meyers, Patricia (1983). Classic Tailoring Techniques . Fairchild Publications. p. 1. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780870054310 . ^ Jump up to: a b Seligman, Kevin L. (1996). Cutting for all! . Carbondale [Ill.]: Southern Illinois University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8093-2005-3 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "The History of Bespoke Tailoring: Now and Then" (https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/the-history-bespoke-tailoring/) . Gentleman's Gazette . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Savile Row :Rock of Eye. - Savile Row Tales" (https://savilerowsuit.com/savile-row-rock-of-eye/) . ^ (#cite_ref-williams_18-0) Williams, James (October 2, 2018). "Developing the Tailor's 'Rock of Eye' (https://www.historical-tailoring.com/2018/10/developing-the-tailors-rock-of-eye/) " (https://www.historical-tailoring.com/2018/10/developing-the-tailors-rock-of-eye/) . James Williams . Retrieved May 7, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-carby_19-0) Carby, Luke (2018). Italian tailoring: a glimpse into the world of sartorial masters . Milano, Italy. p. 54. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-88-572-3828-9 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1043470104 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1043470104) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-gazette_20-0) "British vs Italian vs American - Suit Fashions & Silhouettes" (https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/british-italian-american-suits/) . Gentleman's Gazette . 2019. Look up tailor (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Special:Search/tailor) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Wikiquote has quotations related to Tailors (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Tailors) . 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American actress (born 1982) This article is about the American actress. For the wife of William Shakespeare, see Anne Hathaway (wife of Shakespeare) (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway_(wife_of_Shakespeare)) . For other uses, see Anne Hathaway (disambiguation) (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway_(disambiguation)) . Anne Hathaway Hathaway in 2023 Born Anne Jacqueline Hathaway ( 1982-11-12 ) November 12, 1982 (age 41) New York City, U.S. Alma mater Vassar College (/wiki/Vassar_College) New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) Occupation Actress Years active 1997–present Works Full list (/wiki/List_of_Anne_Hathaway_performances) Spouse Adam Shulman ( m. 2012) Children 2 Awards Full list (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Anne_Hathaway) Signature Anne Jacqueline Hathaway (born November 12, 1982) is an American actress. Her accolades (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Anne_Hathaway) include an Academy Award (/wiki/Academy_Award) , a British Academy Film Award (/wiki/British_Academy_Film_Award) , a Golden Globe Award (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award) , and a Primetime Emmy Award (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award) . Her films (/wiki/List_of_Anne_Hathaway_performances) have grossed over $6.8 billion worldwide, and she appeared on the Forbes Celebrity 100 (/wiki/Forbes_Celebrity_100) list in 2009. She was among the world's highest-paid actresses in 2015. Hathaway performed in several plays in high school. As a teenager, she was cast in the television series Get Real (/wiki/Get_Real_(American_TV_series)) (1999–2000) and made her breakthrough by playing the lead role in the Disney (/wiki/Disney) comedy The Princess Diaries (/wiki/The_Princess_Diaries_(film)) (2001). After starring in a string of family films, including Ella Enchanted (/wiki/Ella_Enchanted_(film)) (2004), Hathaway made a transition to mature roles with the 2005 drama Brokeback Mountain (/wiki/Brokeback_Mountain) . The comedy-drama The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) (2006), in which she played an assistant to a fashion magazine editor, was her biggest commercial success to that point. She played a recovering addict in the drama Rachel Getting Married (/wiki/Rachel_Getting_Married) (2008), which earned her a nomination for the Academy Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) . Hathaway had further commercial success in the comedy Get Smart (/wiki/Get_Smart_(film)) (2008), the romances Bride Wars (/wiki/Bride_Wars) (2009), Valentine's Day (/wiki/Valentine%27s_Day_(2010_film)) (2010), and Love & Other Drugs (/wiki/Love_%26_Other_Drugs) (2010), and the fantasy film Alice in Wonderland (/wiki/Alice_in_Wonderland_(2010_film)) (2010). In 2012, she starred as Catwoman (/wiki/Catwoman) in her highest-grossing film, The Dark Knight Rises (/wiki/The_Dark_Knight_Rises) , and played Fantine (/wiki/Fantine) , a prostitute dying of tuberculosis (/wiki/Tuberculosis) , in the musical Les Misérables (/wiki/Les_Mis%C3%A9rables_(2012_film)) , winning the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) for the latter. She has since played a scientist in the science fiction film Interstellar (/wiki/Interstellar_(film)) (2014), the owner of a fashion website in the comedy The Intern (/wiki/The_Intern_(2015_film)) (2015), a haughty actress in the heist film Ocean's 8 (/wiki/Ocean%27s_8) (2018), a con artist in the comedy The Hustle (2019), Rebekah Neumann (/wiki/Rebekah_Neumann) in the miniseries WeCrashed (/wiki/WeCrashed) (2022), and an older woman dating a young pop star in the romantic comedy The Idea of You (/wiki/The_Idea_of_You) (2024). Hathaway has won a Primetime Emmy Award (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award_for_Outstanding_Voice-Over_Performance) for her voice role in the sitcom The Simpsons (/wiki/The_Simpsons) , sung for soundtracks, appeared on stage, and hosted events. She supports several charitable causes. She is a board member of the Lollipop Theatre Network, an organization that brings films to children in hospitals, and advocates for gender equality (/wiki/Gender_equality) as a UN Women (/wiki/UN_Women) goodwill ambassador (/wiki/Goodwill_ambassador) . Early life and background Anne Jacqueline "Annie" [1] (#cite_note-1) Hathaway was born on November 12, 1982, in the Brooklyn (/wiki/Brooklyn) borough of New York City. Her father, Gerald, was a labor attorney, and her mother, Kate (née McCauley), is a former actress. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-huffpost-3) Hathaway's maternal grandfather was WIP (AM) (/wiki/WIP_(AM)) Philadelphia (/wiki/Philadelphia) radio personality Joe McCauley. [4] (#cite_note-4) According to The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) , she was named after Shakespeare's wife (/wiki/Shakespeare%27s_wife) . [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) She has an older brother, Michael, and a younger brother, Thomas. [6] (#cite_note-6) When Hathaway was six, the family moved to Millburn, New Jersey (/wiki/Millburn,_New_Jersey) , where she was raised. [7] (#cite_note-msnbc-7) As a child, Hathaway appeared in several productions at Paper Mill Playhouse (/wiki/Paper_Mill_Playhouse) At age eight, [3] (#cite_note-huffpost-3) when Hathaway watched her mother perform in the first national tour of Les Misérables (/wiki/Les_Mis%C3%A9rables_(musical)) as Fantine (/wiki/Fantine) , she instantly became fascinated with the stage, but her parents were not keen on allowing her to pursue an acting career. After this, Kate quit acting to raise Hathaway and her brothers. [8] (#cite_note-latimes.com-8) Hathaway was raised as Roman Catholic (/wiki/Roman_Catholic) with what she considers to be "really strong values" and wished to be a nun during her childhood, but acting was always a high priority for her. [7] (#cite_note-msnbc-7) [9] (#cite_note-nun-9) Her relationship with the Catholic Church changed at age fifteen, after learning that her older brother was gay. [9] (#cite_note-nun-9) Her family left the church, joining the Episcopal Church (/wiki/Episcopal_Church_(United_States)) because of its acceptance of homosexuality, but they eventually left that too. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2009, Hathaway described her religious beliefs as "a work in progress". [9] (#cite_note-nun-9) Hathaway attended Brooklyn Heights Montessori (/wiki/Montessori) School and Wyoming Elementary School in Millburn. [11] (#cite_note-princessdvd-11) She graduated from Millburn High School (/wiki/Millburn_High_School) , where she played soccer and took part in many plays, including Once Upon a Mattress (/wiki/Once_Upon_a_Mattress) , in which she portrayed Winnifred. [12] (#cite_note-12) Later, she appeared in the plays Jane Eyre (/wiki/Jane_Eyre) and Gigi (/wiki/Gigi_(play)) , at New Jersey's Paper Mill Playhouse (/wiki/Paper_Mill_Playhouse) . [13] (#cite_note-query-13) She studied at the American Academy of Dramatic Arts (/wiki/American_Academy_of_Dramatic_Arts) in 1993 and became the first teenager admitted into the Barrow Group (/wiki/The_Barrow_Group) Theater Company's acting program. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-mercury-15) She spent several semesters studying as an English major and political science (/wiki/Political_science) minor at Vassar College (/wiki/Vassar_College) in Poughkeepsie, New York (/wiki/Poughkeepsie_(town),_New_York) , [16] (#cite_note-16) before transferring to New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) 's Gallatin School of Individualized Study (/wiki/Gallatin_School_of_Individualized_Study) . [17] (#cite_note-herald-17) Between 1998 and 1999, Hathaway sang soprano (/wiki/Soprano) with the All-Eastern U.S. High School Honors Chorus at Carnegie Hall (/wiki/Carnegie_Hall) and in plays at Seton Hall Preparatory School (/wiki/Seton_Hall_Preparatory_School) in West Orange (/wiki/West_Orange,_New_Jersey) , New Jersey. Early in her film career, her acting style and appearance would be likened to Judy Garland (/wiki/Judy_Garland) —whom she cites as one of her favorite actresses [11] (#cite_note-princessdvd-11) —and Audrey Hepburn (/wiki/Audrey_Hepburn) . [18] (#cite_note-thoughtco-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) [21] (#cite_note-21) Three days after her performance at Carnegie Hall, Hathaway was cast in the short-lived Fox (/wiki/Fox_Broadcasting_Company) television series Get Real (/wiki/Get_Real_(American_TV_series)) . [13] (#cite_note-query-13) She played the teenager Meghan Green, alongside Jon Tenney (/wiki/Jon_Tenney) , Debrah Farentino (/wiki/Debrah_Farentino) and Jesse Eisenberg (/wiki/Jesse_Eisenberg) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Despite her early success, Hathaway suffered from depression and anxiety as a teenager. However, she said in 2008 that she had since grown from it. [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) She missed her first college semester for the filming of her cinematic debut, The Princess Diaries (/wiki/The_Princess_Diaries_(film)) (2001). [13] (#cite_note-query-13) According to Hathaway, she never regretted not completing her degree, as she enjoyed being with others who "were trying to grow up". [17] (#cite_note-herald-17) Career 2001–2004: Early roles and breakthrough In 2001, Hathaway starred in the Disney (/wiki/Walt_Disney_Pictures) comedy The Princess Diaries (/wiki/The_Princess_Diaries_(film)) , based on Meg Cabot (/wiki/Meg_Cabot) 's novel of the same name (/wiki/The_Princess_Diaries) . Hathaway portrayed teenager Mia Thermopolis (/wiki/Mia_Thermopolis) , who discovers that she is the heiress to the throne of the fictional Kingdom of Genovia. Hathaway auditioned for the role during a flight layover on the way to New Zealand. [11] (#cite_note-princessdvd-11) Director Garry Marshall (/wiki/Garry_Marshall) initially considered Liv Tyler (/wiki/Liv_Tyler) for the role, but cast Hathaway after his granddaughters suggested that she had the best "princess" hair. [23] (#cite_note-23) The film became a major commercial success, grossing $165 million worldwide. [24] (#cite_note-24) Many critics lauded Hathaway's performance; a BBC (/wiki/BBC) critic noted that "Hathaway shines in the title role and generates great chemistry" and The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) ' Elvis Mitchell (/wiki/Elvis_Mitchell) found her to be "royalty in the making, a young comic talent with a scramble of features". [25] (#cite_note-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) She earned an MTV Movie Award for Best Breakthrough Female Performance (/wiki/MTV_Movie_Award_for_Best_Breakthrough_Female_Performance) nomination for the role. [27] (#cite_note-27) The same year, Hathaway starred with Christopher Gorham (/wiki/Christopher_Gorham) in Mitch Davis (/wiki/Mitch_Davis) 's The Other Side of Heaven (/wiki/The_Other_Side_of_Heaven) , which was also distributed by Disney. Inspired by John H. Groberg (/wiki/John_H._Groberg) 's memoir In the Eye of the Storm , the film met with mostly negative reviews and was a box-office failure. [28] (#cite_note-28) "In terms of the princess role, there is only so long that you can play those as a young lady before you start feeling really ridiculous. They are so much fun to do, I figure I might as well get the most out of them while I can. Then [I'll] go off and play all the drug addicts and the prostitutes, and all the good ones you win Oscars for a little bit later on." —Hathaway, 2004 [18] (#cite_note-thoughtco-18) Owing to the success of The Princess Diaries , People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) magazine named Hathaway one of its breakthrough stars of 2001. [29] (#cite_note-independent-29) In February 2002, Hathaway starred in the City Center Encores! concert production of Carnival! (/wiki/Carnival!) in her New York City stage debut; she was cast as Lili, an optimistic orphan who falls in love with a magician. Before rehearsing with the full cast, Hathaway trained with a vocal coach for two weeks. She memorized almost all her lines and songs at the first read-through. [13] (#cite_note-query-13) Critics generally praised her for holding her own against well-known actors and heralded her as a new star. [13] (#cite_note-query-13) In a positive review of the musical, Charles Isherwood (/wiki/Charles_Isherwood) of Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) called Hathaway the highlight of the show and "remarkably unaffected and winning", praising her convincing performance. [30] (#cite_note-30) She won a Clarence Derwent Award (/wiki/Clarence_Derwent_Award) for Most Promising Female. [31] (#cite_note-tvguide-31) Later, Hathaway voiced the audiobook release of the first three books in The Princess Diaries novels. [32] (#cite_note-32) Hathaway portrayed princesses and appeared in family-oriented films over the next three years, subsequently becoming known in mainstream media as a children's role model. [29] (#cite_note-independent-29) After voicing Haru Yoshioka for the English version of The Cat Returns (/wiki/The_Cat_Returns) (2002), [33] (#cite_note-33) she starred in Douglas McGrath (/wiki/Douglas_McGrath) 's comedy-drama Nicholas Nickleby (/wiki/Nicholas_Nickleby_(2002_film)) (2002), which opened to positive reviews. However, the film did not enter wide release and failed at the North American box office, totaling less than $4 million in ticket sales. [34] (#cite_note-34) The fantasy romantic comedy Ella Enchanted (/wiki/Ella_Enchanted_(film)) (2004), in which Hathaway played the titular character, also performed poorly at the box office. [35] (#cite_note-35) She had first read the book on which the film is based (/wiki/Ella_Enchanted) when she was 16, and stated that the script was originally much closer to the source material but did not work as a film, and therefore preferred the picture the way it turned out. [18] (#cite_note-thoughtco-18) It opened to mostly mixed reviews. [36] (#cite_note-36) Hathaway sang three songs on the film's soundtrack (/wiki/Ella_Enchanted_(soundtrack)) , including a duet with singer Jesse McCartney (/wiki/Jesse_McCartney) . [37] (#cite_note-37) In 2003, Hathaway turned down the role of Christine Daaé for Joel Schumacher (/wiki/Joel_Schumacher) 's The Phantom of the Opera (/wiki/The_Phantom_of_the_Opera_(2004_film)) (2004), because the production schedule of the film overlapped with The Princess Diaries 2: Royal Engagement (/wiki/The_Princess_Diaries_2:_Royal_Engagement) (2004). [31] (#cite_note-tvguide-31) She was initially hesitant and nervous about starring in the sequel, but agreed to it after Marshall convinced her that she was not repeating anything. [18] (#cite_note-thoughtco-18) The film was released in August 2004 to negative reviews, [38] (#cite_note-38) but made $95.1 million against a $40 million budget. [39] (#cite_note-39) 2005–2008: Transition to adult roles and critical recognition Hathaway began taking on adult roles to avoid typecasting (/wiki/Typecasting) , [29] (#cite_note-independent-29) remarking that "anybody who was a role model for children needs a reprieve", but noted that "it's lovely to think that my audience is growing up with me". [40] (#cite_note-telegraphaus-40) After replacing Tara Strong (/wiki/Tara_Strong) for the voice role of Red Puckett (/wiki/Little_Red_Riding_Hood) in Hoodwinked! (/wiki/Hoodwinked!) , [41] (#cite_note-41) she starred in the drama Havoc (/wiki/Havoc_(2005_film)) (2005) as a spoiled socialite, appearing nude in some of its scenes. While the film was thematically different from her previous releases, Hathaway denied that her role was an attempt to be seen as a more mature actress, citing her belief that performing nudity in certain films is merely a part of what her chosen form of art demands of her; because of this belief she does not consider appearing nude in appropriate films to be morally objectionable. [42] (#cite_note-42) The film was not released in theaters in the United States due to unfavorable critical reception. [43] (#cite_note-43) In the 2005 drama Brokeback Mountain (/wiki/Brokeback_Mountain) , which depicts the emotional and sexual relationship between two men married to women, Ennis Del Mar (/wiki/Ennis_Del_Mar) (played by Heath Ledger (/wiki/Heath_Ledger) ) and Jack Twist (/wiki/Jack_Twist) (played by Jake Gyllenhaal (/wiki/Jake_Gyllenhaal) ), Hathaway played Lureen, the wife of Jack. The actress was originally sent the script with the part of Ennis' wife in mind, but decided to audition for Lureen instead after she read it. [44] (#cite_note-44) She lied during the audition about her knowledge of riding so that the director Ang Lee (/wiki/Ang_Lee) would cast her, but did subsequently take lessons. [45] (#cite_note-45) The film received critical acclaim and several Academy Award (/wiki/Academy_Award) nominations. [46] (#cite_note-46) Peter Travers (/wiki/Peter_Travers) of Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) wrote that Hathaway "excels at showing Lureen's journey from cutie-pie to hard case", and Todd McCarthy (/wiki/Todd_McCarthy) of Variety credited her for "provid[ing] an entertaining contrast in wifely disappointment". [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) Hathaway stated that the content of Brokeback Mountain was more important than its award count, and that making the film made her more aware of the kind of stories she wanted to tell as an actor. [49] (#cite_note-inside-49) At this point, she realized that she wanted to play roles to move audiences or otherwise entertain them so much that they forget about their own lives. [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) Hathaway at the 2007 Deauville American Film Festival (/wiki/Deauville_American_Film_Festival) Hathaway starred in the comedy-drama The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) (2006), based on Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) 's novel of the same name (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) , as a college graduate who becomes an assistant to a powerful fashion magazine editor (/wiki/Miranda_Priestly) (played by Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) ). [7] (#cite_note-msnbc-7) She was "the ninth choice" for the part, citing this later as an inspiration for people to never give up, [50] (#cite_note-50) and in preparation she volunteered for a few weeks as an assistant at an auction house (/wiki/Auction_house) . [51] (#cite_note-51) She also followed a weight-loss regimen, along with co-star Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) , which made them hungry and led to crying. [52] (#cite_note-52) Hathaway stated that working on the film made her respect the fashion industry a great deal more than she did previously, though she admitted that her personal style was something she "still can't get right". [15] (#cite_note-mercury-15) The Devil Wears Prada received positive reviews; Roger Ebert (/wiki/Roger_Ebert) called Hathaway "a great beauty [...] who makes a convincing career girl" and Rotten Tomatoes (/wiki/Rotten_Tomatoes) found "Streep in top form and Anne Hathaway more than holding her own". [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) It proved to be her most widely seen film to that point, with a worldwide gross of over $326.5 million. [55] (#cite_note-highest-55) Originally cast in Knocked Up (/wiki/Knocked_Up) , Hathaway dropped out before production and was replaced with Katherine Heigl (/wiki/Katherine_Heigl) . This happened because, according to writer-director Judd Apatow (/wiki/Judd_Apatow) , the actress was uncomfortable with the use of real footage of a woman in labor; [56] (#cite_note-56) she believed it did not contribute to the film's story. [57] (#cite_note-57) Her sole release in 2007 was the biographical romantic drama Becoming Jane (/wiki/Becoming_Jane) , as the titular English author Jane Austen (/wiki/Jane_Austen) . [49] (#cite_note-inside-49) A fan of Austen since age 14, Hathaway prepared for the role by rereading Austen's books and conducting historical research, such as perusing the author's letters; she also learned sign language (/wiki/Sign_language) , calligraphy (/wiki/Calligraphy) , dance choreography, and the piano. She moved to England a month before filming to improve her English accent. [a] (#cite_note-59) [59] (#cite_note-60) She received a British Independent Film Award (/wiki/British_Independent_Film_Award) for Best Actress nomination for the film, [60] (#cite_note-61) although some critics negatively focused on her accent and performance. [61] (#cite_note-62) In October 2008, Hathaway hosted an episode of the NBC (/wiki/NBC) late-night sketch comedy Saturday Night Live (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) . [62] (#cite_note-63) She also starred in Peter Segal (/wiki/Peter_Segal) 's film adaptation (/wiki/Get_Smart_(film)) of Mel Brooks (/wiki/Mel_Brooks) ' television series Get Smart (/wiki/Get_Smart) , in which she played Agent 99 (/wiki/Agent_99) . Calling the role "a childhood dream come true", Hathaway learned martial arts and dancing techniques in preparation. [40] (#cite_note-telegraphaus-40) While filming an action sequence, she split the flesh of her shin to the bone, which led to her receiving 15 stitches. [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) The film, centering on an analyst who dreams of becoming a real field agent and a better spy, was a financial success. [63] (#cite_note-64) Hathaway's two other releases of 2008 were the drama Rachel Getting Married (/wiki/Rachel_Getting_Married) and the mystery thriller Passengers (/wiki/Passengers_(2008_film)) , the latter of which was a critical and commercial failure. [64] (#cite_note-65) In Jonathan Demme (/wiki/Jonathan_Demme) 's Rachel Getting Married , she starred as a young woman who, after being released from drug rehabilitation, returns home for her sister's wedding. Portraying a character she described as "narcissistic—downright selfish," Hathaway garnered critical acclaim for her performance. [65] (#cite_note-rachel-66) Peter Travers found her to be "raw and riveting" in the role, adding that she "acts the hell out of it, achieving a state of sorrowful grace". [66] (#cite_note-67) She received Academy Award (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) and Golden Globe Award (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Actress_in_a_Motion_Picture_%E2%80%93_Drama) nominations for Best Actress. [65] (#cite_note-rachel-66) [67] (#cite_note-racheloscar-68) 2009–2011: Romantic comedies and hosting events Hathaway starred in Bride Wars (/wiki/Bride_Wars) (2009), which she described as "hideously commercial—gloriously so". [68] (#cite_note-69) The romantic comedy, in which she and Kate Hudson (/wiki/Kate_Hudson) played two best friends who become rivals after their weddings are scheduled on the same day, was a critical failure; it was named among the ten worst chick flicks (/wiki/Chick_flick) in history by Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) in 2010. [69] (#cite_note-70) Despite this, the film was successful financially and earned Hathaway an MTV Movie Award for Best Female Performance (/wiki/MTV_Movie_Award_for_Best_Female_Performance) nomination. [70] (#cite_note-71) [71] (#cite_note-72) She played the heroine Viola (/wiki/Viola_(Twelfth_Night)) in a summer 2009 production of Twelfth Night (/wiki/Twelfth_Night) at the Delacorte Theater (/wiki/Delacorte_Theater) in New York City. Charles Isherwood opined that Hathaway "dives smoothly and with obvious pleasure into the embrace of a cohesive ensemble cast". [72] (#cite_note-isherwood-73) For her portrayal of the role, she garnered a nomination for the Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Actress in a Play (/wiki/Drama_Desk_Award_for_Outstanding_Actress_in_a_Play) . [73] (#cite_note-74) In 2010, she also won a Primetime Emmy Award for Outstanding Voice-Over Performance (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award_for_Outstanding_Voice-Over_Performance) for providing her voice for the episode " Once Upon a Time in Springfield (/wiki/Once_Upon_a_Time_in_Springfield) " in The Simpsons (/wiki/The_Simpsons) . [74] (#cite_note-emmy-75) Hathaway voiced different characters in Family Guy (/wiki/Family_Guy) in 2010 and 2011. [75] (#cite_note-76) [76] (#cite_note-77) In 2010, Hathaway appeared as a receptionist who dates a clerk (played by Topher Grace (/wiki/Topher_Grace) ) in the ensemble romantic comedy Valentine's Day (/wiki/Valentine%27s_Day_(2010_film)) , directed by Garry Marshall. The film was a commercial success, grossing more than $215 million worldwide against a budget of $52 million. [77] (#cite_note-78) Hathaway played the White Queen (/wiki/White_Queen_(Through_the_Looking_Glass)) in Tim Burton (/wiki/Tim_Burton) 's 2010 adaptation (/wiki/Alice_in_Wonderland_(2010_film)) of the fantasy novels Alice's Adventures in Wonderland (/wiki/Alice%27s_Adventures_in_Wonderland) and Through the Looking-Glass (/wiki/Through_the_Looking-Glass) alongside Helena Bonham Carter (/wiki/Helena_Bonham_Carter) and Johnny Depp (/wiki/Johnny_Depp) . She summed up her character with a caption on a magnet of Happy Bunny (/wiki/Happy_Bunny) holding a knife; "Cute but psycho. Things even out." [78] (#cite_note-79) Hathaway described her interpretation of the White Queen as "a punk-rock (/wiki/Punk-rock) vegan (/wiki/Vegan) pacifist (/wiki/Pacifist) ", drawing inspiration from Debbie Harry (/wiki/Debbie_Harry) and the artwork of Dan Flavin (/wiki/Dan_Flavin) . [79] (#cite_note-80) Alice in Wonderland received mixed reviews from critics, who praised the film's visuals but criticized the lack of narrative coherence. [80] (#cite_note-81) Commercially, it grossed $1 billion to become the second-highest-grossing film of 2010 (/wiki/List_of_highest-grossing_films) . [81] (#cite_note-82) Hathaway at the Nobel Peace Prize Concert (/wiki/Nobel_Peace_Prize_Concert) in 2010, which she hosted with actor Denzel Washington (/wiki/Denzel_Washington) Hathaway reunited with Jake Gyllenhaal as a free-spirited artist with Parkinson's disease (/wiki/Parkinson%27s_disease) in Edward Zwick (/wiki/Edward_Zwick) 's erotic romantic comedy-drama Love & Other Drugs (/wiki/Love_%26_Other_Drugs) , based on the nonfiction book Hard Sell: The Evolution of a Viagra Salesman by Jamie Reidy (/wiki/Jamie_Reidy) . For the role, she spent time with a Parkinson's patient to research the disease, and in preparation for its nude scenes, she watched films of Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) and Penélope Cruz (/wiki/Pen%C3%A9lope_Cruz) who, in Hathaway's view, had performed nudity with sensitivity and dignity. [82] (#cite_note-83) [83] (#cite_note-84) She believed these scenes would not discourage socially conservative people from watching the film. [84] (#cite_note-85) Critics generally praised the film's adult romance, but were unenthusiastic about its plot elements. [85] (#cite_note-86) Hathaway's performance, which Ebert called "warm, lovable", [86] (#cite_note-87) earned her a Satellite Award (/wiki/Satellite_Award_for_Best_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) and a nomination for the Golden Globe Award for Best Actress – Comedy or Musical (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture_Comedy_or_Musical) . [87] (#cite_note-lovegolden-88) [88] (#cite_note-89) Together with actor Denzel Washington (/wiki/Denzel_Washington) , Hathaway hosted the Nobel Peace Prize Concert (/wiki/Nobel_Peace_Prize_Concert) in Oslo, Norway in December 2010. [89] (#cite_note-90) Two months later, she and James Franco (/wiki/James_Franco) hosted the 83rd Academy Awards (/wiki/83rd_Academy_Awards) . [90] (#cite_note-91) Critics were unenthusiastic about their chemistry, but thought Hathaway gave her best and did a better job than Franco, who they felt seemed uninterested. [91] (#cite_note-92) At the 63rd Primetime Emmy Awards (/wiki/63rd_Primetime_Emmy_Awards) , she garnered an Outstanding Variety Special (Live) (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award_for_Outstanding_Variety_Special_(Live)) nomination. [92] (#cite_note-93) In 2011, Hathaway voiced Jewel, a female Spix's macaw (/wiki/Spix%27s_macaw) from Rio de Janeiro, in the animated film Rio (/wiki/Rio_(2011_film)) , produced by 20th Century Fox (/wiki/20th_Century_Fox) and Blue Sky Studios (/wiki/Blue_Sky_Studios) . It received generally positive reviews from film critics, who praised the visuals, voice acting and music. [93] (#cite_note-RottenTomatoes-94) A commercial success, it grossed more than $484 million worldwide against a budget of $90 million. [94] (#cite_note-LABox-95) Later, Hathaway starred alongside Jim Sturgess (/wiki/Jim_Sturgess) in Lone Scherfig (/wiki/Lone_Scherfig) 's One Day (/wiki/One_Day_(2011_film)) , based on David Nicholls (/wiki/David_Nicholls_(writer)) ' novel of the same name (/wiki/One_Day_(novel)) . The film tells the story of two young people who meet annually for twenty years after they shared a platonic one-night stand together. Hathaway was clandestinely given the script, as One Day was set in Britain, and Scherfig was not looking for any American actresses for the part. After a nonproductive meeting with Scherfig, Hathaway left a list of songs for the director, who after listening to them, cast the actress for the part. [b] (#cite_note-97) [95] (#cite_note-Toronto-96) Hathaway later expressed regret that she might have unwittingly held misogyny (/wiki/Misogyny) during production, as she came to feel that she had not trusted Scherfig as a director because of her gender. [96] (#cite_note-98) Her Yorkshire accent (/wiki/Yorkshire_accent) in the film was considered subpar. Columnist Suzanne Moore, reviewing the film on BBC Radio 4 (/wiki/BBC_Radio_4) 's Front Row (/wiki/Front_Row_(radio_programme)) , said Hathaway's accents were "all over the shop", adding, "Sometimes she's from Scotland, sometimes she's from New York, you just can't tell". [97] (#cite_note-99) The film itself received polarizing reviews from critics, [98] (#cite_note-100) but became a moderate box office success. [99] (#cite_note-Budget-101) [100] (#cite_note-102) 2012–2014: Les Misérables and films with Christopher Nolan In 2012, Hathaway's audiobook recording of L. Frank Baum (/wiki/L._Frank_Baum) 's 1900 novel The Wonderful Wizard of Oz (/wiki/The_Wonderful_Wizard_of_Oz) was released at Audible.com (/wiki/Audible.com) and garnered her an Audie Award (/wiki/Audie_Award) nomination for Best Solo Narration – Female. [101] (#cite_note-Audie-103) She then played the sly, morally ambiguous cat burglar Selina Kyle / Catwoman (/wiki/Catwoman) in The Dark Knight Rises (/wiki/The_Dark_Knight_Rises) , the final installment in Christopher Nolan (/wiki/Christopher_Nolan) 's The Dark Knight trilogy (/wiki/The_Dark_Knight_Trilogy) . [102] (#cite_note-104) Hathaway auditioned not knowing what part she was being considered for, admitting that she had Harley Quinn (/wiki/Harley_Quinn) in mind but only learned her role after talking with Nolan for an hour. [103] (#cite_note-CastHathaway1-105) She described it as her most physically demanding assignment to that point, as she had to redouble her efforts in the gym to keep up with the requirements of the role. [104] (#cite_note-Harper'sBazaar-106) [105] (#cite_note-Selena-107) She trained extensively in martial arts, and looked to Hedy Lamarr (/wiki/Hedy_Lamarr) in developing her performance as Catwoman. [106] (#cite_note-Boucher2-108) The Dark Knight Rises was critically successful and grossed more than $1 billion worldwide, becoming the third-highest-grossing film of 2012 (/wiki/2012_in_film) . [107] (#cite_note-109) IGN (/wiki/IGN) reviewer Jim Vejvoda labeled Hathaway "a magnetic presence whenever she's onscreen" and added, "Selina may be the proverbial good bad girl, the thief with a heart of gold, but Hathaway imbues her with a wounded spirit and a survivor's edge that makes her feel genuine and sympathetic even when she's being naughty." [108] (#cite_note-110) She won the Saturn Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Saturn_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) for her performance. [109] (#cite_note-111) Hathaway portrayed Fantine (/wiki/Fantine) , a prostitute dying of tuberculosis (/wiki/Tuberculosis) , in Tom Hooper (/wiki/Tom_Hooper) 's Les Misérables (/wiki/Les_Mis%C3%A9rables_(2012_film)) , an adaptation of the stage musical of the same name (/wiki/Les_Mis%C3%A9rables_(musical)) . Footage of the actress singing " I Dreamed a Dream (/wiki/I_Dreamed_a_Dream) ", a song from the film, was shown at the 2012 CinemaCon (/wiki/CinemaCon) , where Hooper described her singing as "raw" and "real". [110] (#cite_note-112) In preparation for the role, Hathaway consumed fewer than 500 calories a day to lose 25 pounds (11 kg), researched prostitution, and cut her hair. [111] (#cite_note-113) [112] (#cite_note-114) To adopt her character's mental space alone during production in London, she sent her husband back to the United States; this resulted in her becoming increasingly temperamental. [113] (#cite_note-115) Ann Hornaday (/wiki/Ann_Hornaday) of The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) asserted that "the centerpiece of a movie composed entirely of centerpieces belongs to Anne Hathaway, who as the tragic heroine Fantine sings another of the memorable numbers". [114] (#cite_note-116) She won the Academy Award (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) , Golden Globe (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) , Screen Actors Guild (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award_for_Outstanding_Performance_by_a_Female_Actor_in_a_Supporting_Role) and BAFTA Award (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Actress_in_a_Supporting_Role) for Best Supporting Actress. [115] (#cite_note-eh-117) [116] (#cite_note-les-118) Asked if she was pleased with her performance in the film, Hathaway expressed doubts, replying with "Eh". [115] (#cite_note-eh-117) In January 2013, Hathaway's rendition of "I Dreamed a Dream" reached number 69 on the Billboard Hot 100 (/wiki/Billboard_Hot_100) . [117] (#cite_note-119) Hathaway at a screening of Rio 2 (/wiki/Rio_2) in 2014 After briefly appearing in the romantic comedy Don Jon (/wiki/Don_Jon) (2013), [118] (#cite_note-120) Hathaway starred in and co-produced (with her husband and others) Song One (/wiki/Song_One) . In the drama film, she played an anthropology student who returns home to see her injured brother, Henry (played by Ben Rosenfield (/wiki/Ben_Rosenfield) ), and soon begins a romantic relationship with his favorite musician, James Forester (played by Johnny Flynn (/wiki/Johnny_Flynn) ). Her character was originally written as a 19-year-old, but Kate Barker-Froyland, the film's writer and director, changed the part to that of an older woman after casting Hathaway. [119] (#cite_note-121) The actress said the reason she decided to produce the film was because of its depiction of the healing power of music and second chances. [120] (#cite_note-yahoonews-122) For the film's soundtrack, she provided her voice for the song "Afraid of Heights". [121] (#cite_note-123) Song One premiered in the U.S. Dramatic Competition at the 30th Sundance Film Festival (/wiki/2014_Sundance_Film_Festival) in January 2014, [122] (#cite_note-124) and released in theaters the following year to mixed reviews from critics. [123] (#cite_note-125) Commercially, the film failed to recoup its $6 million investment. [124] (#cite_note-126) Hathaway reprised her role as Jewel in the animated film Rio 2 (/wiki/Rio_2) —her third film with Jamie Foxx (/wiki/Jamie_Foxx) —which was released in 2014. [125] (#cite_note-127) It grossed nearly five times more than its $103 million budget. [126] (#cite_note-128) Her sole live-action release of 2014 was Christopher Nolan's epic science fiction film Interstellar (/wiki/Interstellar_(film)) . Set in a dystopian future where humanity is struggling to survive, it follows a crew of astronauts who travel through a wormhole in search of a new home for mankind. Hathaway was drawn to the part of NASA (/wiki/NASA) scientist Amelia Brand due to the character's growth from an arrogant to a humbler person. [127] (#cite_note-129) With a budget of $165 million, the high-profile production co-starring Matthew McConaughey (/wiki/Matthew_McConaughey) was filmed mostly using IMAX (/wiki/IMAX) cameras. [128] (#cite_note-130) [129] (#cite_note-131) Hathaway nearly experienced hypothermia while filming a water scene in Iceland, as the dry suit (/wiki/Dry_suit) she was wearing had not been properly secured. [130] (#cite_note-132) Reviewers for The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) and Empire found her to be "affecting" in the part of a scientist unable to decide between her personal feelings and professional responsibilities, [131] (#cite_note-133) and took notice of the "soulful nuance" in her performance. [132] (#cite_note-134) Interstellar grossed over $701 million worldwide, [133] (#cite_note-135) and earned Hathaway a nomination for the Saturn Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Saturn_Award_for_Best_Actress) . [134] (#cite_note-136) 2015–2021: Comedic roles and career fluctuations Hathaway began 2015 with an appearance in the first season of the musical reality show Lip Sync Battle (/wiki/Lip_Sync_Battle) . In the episode, she competed against her The Devil Wears Prada co-star Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) ; she lip synced " Love (/wiki/No_More_Drama) " by Mary J. Blige (/wiki/Mary_J._Blige) and " Wrecking Ball (/wiki/Wrecking_Ball_(Miley_Cyrus_song)) " by Miley Cyrus (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus) . [135] (#cite_note-137) Nancy Meyers (/wiki/Nancy_Meyers) ' The Intern (/wiki/The_Intern_(2015_film)) was Hathaway's sole film release of 2015. It tells the story of Ben Whittaker (played by Robert De Niro (/wiki/Robert_De_Niro) ), a 70-year-old widower who becomes a senior intern at an online fashion site run by Jules Ostin (Hathaway). She had aspired to work with De Niro and Meyers, her favorite actor and director, respectively; impressed with the film's story, she auditioned for the third time for a Meyers film. [c] (#cite_note-139) [137] (#cite_note-140) Reviews of the film were generally positive; one in Roger Ebert (/wiki/Roger_Ebert) 's website found her to be "extremely appealing" and a reviewer for New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) magazine wrote, " The Intern gets off on De Niro's amiability and Hathaway's sweet energy". [138] (#cite_note-141) [139] (#cite_note-142) The film grossed $194 million worldwide against a $35 million budget. [140] (#cite_note-143) The 2015 found footage (/wiki/Found_footage_(film_technique)) horror film Be My Cat: A Film for Anne (/wiki/Be_My_Cat:_A_Film_for_Anne) , about an aspiring Romanian filmmaker who goes to shocking extremes to convince Hathaway to star in his film, was officially selected and had its North American premiere at the 2016 Nashville Film Festival (/wiki/Nashville_Film_Festival) . [141] (#cite_note-144) Hathaway at the 2016 Toronto International Film Festival (/wiki/2016_Toronto_International_Film_Festival) Hathaway reprised the role of the White Queen in Alice Through the Looking Glass (/wiki/Alice_Through_the_Looking_Glass_(2016_film)) , the 2016 sequel to Alice in Wonderland . [142] (#cite_note-145) That March, it was reported that she would reprise her role for The Princess Diaries 3 ; the project was shelved after the death of Garry Marshall (/wiki/Garry_Marshall) , who was set to direct the film. [143] (#cite_note-146) Hathaway is one of several actors featured on Barbra Streisand (/wiki/Barbra_Streisand) 's 2016 album Encore: Movie Partners Sing Broadway (/wiki/Encore:_Movie_Partners_Sing_Broadway) . Along with Daisy Ridley (/wiki/Daisy_Ridley) , Hathaway and Streisand performed the song " At The Ballet (/wiki/At_The_Ballet) " from A Chorus Line (/wiki/A_Chorus_Line) ; she played the role of Maggie, one of a trio of dancers hoping to be cast in an upcoming show. [144] (#cite_note-NPRAlbum-147) Her final film that year was alongside Jason Sudeikis (/wiki/Jason_Sudeikis) in Nacho Vigalondo (/wiki/Nacho_Vigalondo) 's science fiction black comedy Colossal (/wiki/Colossal_(film)) (2016). [145] (#cite_note-148) Playing an unemployed young writer, Hathaway was the first actress to sign on at a time when the project had no financial backing. She was drawn to the genre-hopping nature of the script, later comparing it to Being John Malkovich (/wiki/Being_John_Malkovich) (1999), one of her favorite films. [146] (#cite_note-Sixteenyear-149) The film received positive reviews from critics, but earned only $4 million at the box office. [147] (#cite_note-150) [148] (#cite_note-151) After a two-year absence from the screen, Hathaway starred as a famous actress in Ocean's 8 (/wiki/Ocean%27s_8) , an all-female spin-off of the Ocean's Eleven franchise (/wiki/Ocean%27s) from director Gary Ross (/wiki/Gary_Ross) . [149] (#cite_note-152) Co-starring Sandra Bullock (/wiki/Sandra_Bullock) and Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) , it follows a group of criminals who plan to rob the Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) . Hathaway was drawn to the idea of playing someone with an immense ego and saw the part as an opportunity "to lean into all the ridiculous fame nonsense that I've been trying to side-step for all of these years." [150] (#cite_note-153) She hoped the film would be profitable so that it could debunk claims that female-led films do not succeed commercially. [151] (#cite_note-154) Critics generally considered Hathaway to be a scene-stealer among the cast, [152] (#cite_note-155) with ABC Online (/wiki/ABC_Online) 's Jason Di Rosso writing, "The film's best moments belong to Hathaway as the anxiety-ridden, vain and capricious starlet. She's the only successful meld of comedy and pathos—a victim of the celebrity treadmill who is also capable of outsmarting it." [153] (#cite_note-156) Ocean's 8 was a box office success, grossing over $297 million worldwide against a $70 million budget. [154] (#cite_note-157) Hathaway's first two films of 2019—the thriller Serenity (/wiki/Serenity_(2019_film)) and the comedy The Hustle (/wiki/The_Hustle_(film)) —were poorly received by critics. [155] (#cite_note-158) [156] (#cite_note-159) In the former, she starred alongside her Interstellar costar Matthew McConaughey (/wiki/Matthew_McConaughey) as a woman who tasks her ex-husband to kill her new abusive husband, a role for which she dyed her hair blonde. [157] (#cite_note-160) The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) dismissed her performance as "cartoonish", adding that her femme fatale (/wiki/Femme_fatale) character was reminiscent of "a kind of live-action Jessica Rabbit (/wiki/Jessica_Rabbit) ". [158] (#cite_note-THRroundup-161) The latter film was a remake of the 1988 film Dirty Rotten Scoundrels (/wiki/Dirty_Rotten_Scoundrels_(film)) , co-starring Rebel Wilson (/wiki/Rebel_Wilson) , which emerged as a sleeper hit (/wiki/Sleeper_hit) . [159] (#cite_note-162) [160] (#cite_note-163) Hathaway next played a woman with bipolar disorder (/wiki/Bipolar_disorder) in an episode of the Amazon Prime Video (/wiki/Amazon_Prime_Video) romantic anthology series Modern Love (/wiki/Modern_Love_(TV_series)) . [161] (#cite_note-164) She then played the wife of Mark Ruffalo (/wiki/Mark_Ruffalo) 's character in Todd Haynes (/wiki/Todd_Haynes) ' legal drama Dark Waters (/wiki/Dark_Waters_(2019_film)) , about environmental poisoning committed by the chemical company DuPont (/wiki/DuPont_(1802%E2%80%932017)) . [162] (#cite_note-165) Writing for Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) , Owen Gleiberman (/wiki/Owen_Gleiberman) termed her supporting performance "a piercing dance of agony and loyalty". [163] (#cite_note-166) Hathaway began the new decade with the political thriller The Last Thing He Wanted (/wiki/The_Last_Thing_He_Wanted_(film)) (2020), based on the book of the same name (/wiki/The_Last_Thing_He_Wanted) by Joan Didion (/wiki/Joan_Didion) . She considered herself to be an unlikely choice for the part of a headstrong journalist, as it differed from her own "puppy dog" personality. [164] (#cite_note-167) It received negative reviews from critics. [165] (#cite_note-168) She then starred in The Witches (/wiki/The_Witches_(2020_film)) , an adaptation of the novel of the same name (/wiki/The_Witches_(novel)) from director Robert Zemeckis (/wiki/Robert_Zemeckis) , in which she played an evil witch (/wiki/Grand_High_Witch) . The film received mixed reviews from critics, who deemed it inferior to the 1990 adaptation (/wiki/The_Witches_(1990_film)) . [166] (#cite_note-169) [167] (#cite_note-170) Hathaway's performances in both films earned her nominations for Worst Actress at the 41st Golden Raspberry Awards (/wiki/41st_Golden_Raspberry_Awards) . [168] (#cite_note-171) In 2021, she starred in the heist film Locked Down (/wiki/Locked_Down_(film)) , directed by Doug Liman (/wiki/Doug_Liman) , which premiered on HBO Max (/wiki/HBO_Max) . Set during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) , it co-starred Chiwetel Ejiofor (/wiki/Chiwetel_Ejiofor) . [169] (#cite_note-172) [170] (#cite_note-173) The film was shot over the course of 18 days with limited resources. [171] (#cite_note-174) She next took on a role in one episode of the Amazon Prime Video anthology series Solos (/wiki/Solos_(TV_series)) . [172] (#cite_note-175) 2022–present: Critical resurgence Hathaway at the 2023 Berlin International Film Festival (/wiki/73rd_Berlin_International_Film_Festival) Hathaway executive produced and starred opposite Jared Leto (/wiki/Jared_Leto) in the Apple TV+ (/wiki/Apple_TV%2B) miniseries WeCrashed (/wiki/WeCrashed) , about the company WeWork (/wiki/WeWork) . [173] (#cite_note-176) [174] (#cite_note-177) It received favorable reviews, with particular praise for Hathaway's portrayal of Rebekah Neumann (/wiki/Rebekah_Neumann) . [175] (#cite_note-178) Angie Han of The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) commended her for resisting "the temptation to turn Rebekah into an exaggerated caricature of an entitled woo-woo type, which ultimately only makes Rebekah funnier". [176] (#cite_note-179) Hathaway starred in James Gray (/wiki/James_Gray_(director)) 's semi-autobiographical period drama Armageddon Time (/wiki/Armageddon_Time) , portraying a character inspired by Gray's mother. [177] (#cite_note-180) David Rooney of The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) considered it her best performance since Rachel Getting Married , while Owen Gleiberman (/wiki/Owen_Gleiberman) of Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) praised Hathaway for making her character "at once affectionate and blinkered". [178] (#cite_note-181) [179] (#cite_note-182) In her two film releases of 2023— Eileen (/wiki/Eileen_(film)) and She Came to Me (/wiki/She_Came_to_Me) —Hathaway played emotionally troubled psychiatrists. [180] (#cite_note-183) Eileen , based on Ottessa Moshfegh (/wiki/Ottessa_Moshfegh) 's thriller novel of the same name (/wiki/Eileen_(novel)) , starred Thomasin McKenzie (/wiki/Thomasin_McKenzie) in the title role and premiered at the 2023 Sundance Film Festival (/wiki/2023_Sundance_Film_Festival) . [181] (#cite_note-184) Hathaway described the project as " Carol (/wiki/Carol_(film)) meets Reservoir Dogs (/wiki/Reservoir_Dogs) ". [182] (#cite_note-185) Terming the film a "perverse folie à deux (/wiki/Folie_%C3%A0_deux) ", Ryan Lattanzio of IndieWire (/wiki/IndieWire) believed that "Hathaway has never been better in a role that feels [...] tailor-made for her". [183] (#cite_note-186) At that year's Berlin International Film Festival (/wiki/73rd_Berlin_International_Film_Festival) , Rebecca Miller (/wiki/Rebecca_Miller) 's romantic comedy She Came to Me , was released. [184] (#cite_note-187) Hathaway's first release of 2024 was as a grieving mother coping with the loss of her son in the thriller Mothers' Instinct (/wiki/Mothers%27_Instinct_(2024_film)) . [185] (#cite_note-188) A remake of the 2018 Belgian film (/wiki/Mothers%27_Instinct_(2018_film)) , she co-starred with Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) . [186] (#cite_note-189) Hathaway created a "protective layer" between herself and her character, requesting for cast and crew members to refer to her by her character’s name as she deemed the loss of a child her "worst fear". [187] (#cite_note-190) Writing for The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) , Peter Bradshaw (/wiki/Peter_Bradshaw) thought that her performance was overshadowed by that of Chastain. [188] (#cite_note-191) She next led the romantic comedy The Idea of You (/wiki/The_Idea_of_You) , based on Robinne Lee (/wiki/Robinne_Lee) 's novel of the same name, playing a divorced mother who begins a romance with a younger pop star. [189] (#cite_note-192) [190] (#cite_note-193) Alissa Wilkinson of The New York Times believed that the film "succeeds mostly because of Hathaway’s performance", and praised her chemistry with co-star Nicholas Galitzine (/wiki/Nicholas_Galitzine) . [191] (#cite_note-194) Hathaway will next star alongside Michaela Coel (/wiki/Michaela_Coel) in David Lowery (/wiki/David_Lowery_(director)) 's Mother Mary (/wiki/Mother_Mary_(upcoming_film)) and will lead David Robert Mitchell (/wiki/David_Robert_Mitchell) 's science fiction film Flowervale Street (/wiki/Flowervale_Street) . [192] (#cite_note-195) [193] (#cite_note-196) Public image Hathaway signing autographs for fans at the 2008 Toronto International Film Festival (/wiki/2008_Toronto_International_Film_Festival) Describing her off-screen persona, John Hiscock of The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) wrote in 2014 that Hathaway is a "well-grounded, friendly young woman with a good sense of humour, a wide smile and an easy-going attitude". [194] (#cite_note-hiscock-197) Hiscock further opines that, despite considerable success, she has never "gone Hollywood", remaining close with her friends. [194] (#cite_note-hiscock-197) The authors of the book 365 Style noted Hathaway's girl next door (/wiki/Girl_next_door) image, and her The Intern director Nancy Meyers says she is "wise beyond her years". [195] (#cite_note-198) [196] (#cite_note-refinery-199) The journalist Laura Brown (/wiki/Laura_Brown_(fashion_journalist)) found her to be a "sincere", "warm and funny" woman. [197] (#cite_note-harper-200) After her 2013 awards acceptance speeches for Les Misérables , The Atlantic (/wiki/The_Atlantic) noted that several media commentators accused her of being "annoying" and making "awkward" jokes. [198] (#cite_note-201) Discussing this, Hathaway explained that she feels anxious when public speaking but has since grown from it and become a more compassionate person. [197] (#cite_note-harper-200) She said regarding her perceived image: "People have this idea of me as just being a very prim, professional girl, which I suppose I am, but I do cut loose and have fun in my life". [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) Remarking upon her performance in Twelfth Night , Charles Isherwood wrote, "on screen or onstage Ms. Hathaway possesses the unmistakable glow of a natural star". [72] (#cite_note-isherwood-73) An Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) writer wrote that many of her good performances have been overlooked, describing her career as "subtle brilliance that has largely gone unnoticed". [199] (#cite_note-202) Discussing her career in 2015, Hathaway said that after her breakthrough in The Princess Diaries , she struggled to find serious roles or ones that were not about princesses. According to Judi Gugliemli of People , Hathaway used that fear of being typecast as motivation to build a versatile body of work. Gugliemli believed that her ability to extensively research her roles is the key to her success. [200] (#cite_note-intern-203) A writer for The Daily Telegraph commended her willingness to appear in different genres, ranging from action comedies to dramas. [201] (#cite_note-204) Hathaway aspires to appear in many different films, work with different directors and play diverse roles. [196] (#cite_note-refinery-199) [200] (#cite_note-intern-203) She said she would be "lost" without acting and feels lucky to have found it as her profession. [202] (#cite_note-205) A trained stage actress, she prefers performing on stage to film roles and claims to be terrified of acting on camera. [7] (#cite_note-msnbc-7) "I always assume that every film is my last, and I always assume that I have to go out and convince everybody why they have to hire me. I still audition," she said. [120] (#cite_note-yahoonews-122) Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) reported that Hathaway was one of the world's highest-paid actresses in 2015, [203] (#cite_note-206) and since 2017, she has been among the highest-grossing actresses of the 21st century. [204] (#cite_note-207) In 2009, she was included on Forbes ' annual Celebrity 100 (/wiki/Celebrity_100) list with earnings of $7 million, and was invited to join the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (/wiki/Academy_of_Motion_Picture_Arts_and_Sciences) . [205] (#cite_note-208) [206] (#cite_note-209) As of July 2018 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Anne_Hathaway&action=edit) , her films have grossed $6.7 billion worldwide. [207] (#cite_note-bmojo-210) Profiled as among the world's leading actresses by Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) , Hathaway, according to Catherine Elsworth of The Daily Telegraph , is pursued both by directors and by cosmetics companies. [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) In January 2008, she joined French luxury perfumes and cosmetics house Lancôme (/wiki/Lanc%C3%B4me) as the face of their fragrance "Magnifique". [208] (#cite_note-211) [209] (#cite_note-212) In 2011, she became the new face of the Italian company Tod's (/wiki/Tod%27s) . [210] (#cite_note-213) Hathaway's beauty and sex appeal have been picked up by several media outlets; FHM (/wiki/FHM) , People , Maxim (/wiki/Maxim_(magazine)) , Empire (/wiki/Empire_(magazine)) and Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) have included her on their yearly listings of sexiest women. [211] (#cite_note-214) In 2011, Los Angeles Times Magazine (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times_Magazine) listed her as one of the 50 Most Beautiful Women in Film. [212] (#cite_note-215) Elsworth called her in 2008 "the hottest young actress in Hollywood". [5] (#cite_note-elsworth-5) Hathaway disagreed, insisting that she has a "good girl" image and no sex appeal. [213] (#cite_note-216) She has refused to undergo treatment with Botox (/wiki/Botox) , saying she is comfortable in her own skin. [214] (#cite_note-217) Activism Hathaway at the 2018 Human Rights Campaign (/wiki/Human_Rights_Campaign) dinner in Washington, D.C. Hathaway has served as a long-term advocate for the Nike Foundation to raise awareness against child marriage (/wiki/Child_marriage) . [215] (#cite_note-:0-218) In July 2006, she spent a week in Nicaragua (/wiki/Nicaragua) to help vaccinate children against hepatitis A (/wiki/Hepatitis_A) . [216] (#cite_note-219) She has also traveled to other countries to promote the rights of women and girls, including Kenya and Ethiopia. [217] (#cite_note-220) In 2008, she was honored at Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) ' s Women in Hollywood tribute and won an award from the Human Rights Campaign for her philanthropy; [218] (#cite_note-allin-221) [219] (#cite_note-222) she was also honored for her work with Step Up Women's Network in 2008. [220] (#cite_note-223) She then teamed up in 2010 with World Bank (/wiki/World_Bank) in a two-year development program The Girl Effect whose mission focuses on helping empower girls in developing and developed nations where one-third of young women are not employed and not in school. [221] (#cite_note-224) In 2013, she provided the narration for Girl Rising (/wiki/Girl_Rising) , a CNN (/wiki/CNN) documentary film, which focused on the power of female education as it followed seven girls around the world who sought to overcome obstacles and follow their dreams. [215] (#cite_note-:0-218) Hathaway serves on the board of the Lollipop Theatre Network and is involved with charities Creative Coalition (/wiki/Creative_Coalition) , St. Jude Children's Research Hospital (/wiki/St._Jude_Children%27s_Research_Hospital) and the Human Rights Campaign (/wiki/Human_Rights_Campaign) . [222] (#cite_note-225) [223] (#cite_note-226) In 2016, Hathaway was appointed UN Women (/wiki/UN_Women) Goodwill ambassador (/wiki/Goodwill_ambassador) based on her advocacy for gender equality. The following year, she spoke on International Women's Day (/wiki/International_Women%27s_Day) in favor of paid parental leave (/wiki/Parental_leave) for both men and women. [224] (#cite_note-227) To promote an increased awareness of systemic sexism in the entertainment industry, Hathaway has advocated for greater professional opportunities for women and criticized Hollywood as not being a place of equality. [225] (#cite_note-228) In 2018, she collaborated with 300 women in Hollywood to set up the Time's Up (/wiki/Time%27s_Up_(organization)) initiative to protect women from harassment and discrimination. [226] (#cite_note-229) Political views Hathaway supports abortion-rights movements (/wiki/Abortion-rights_movements) , gun control (/wiki/Gun_control) and immigrant rights (/wiki/Immigrant_rights) . [227] (#cite_note-230) [228] (#cite_note-231) [229] (#cite_note-232) She has criticized former President Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) for his administration (/wiki/Presidency_of_Donald_Trump) 's anti-immigration policies. [230] (#cite_note-insider-233) Hathaway is also a supporter of LGBT rights (/wiki/LGBT_rights) , and has donated money to organizations which support the legalization of same-sex marriage (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) . [231] (#cite_note-234) [232] (#cite_note-235) She has spoken out against issues such as homophobia (/wiki/Homophobia) , school bullying (/wiki/School_bullying) , transphobia (/wiki/Transphobia) and white privilege (/wiki/White_privilege) , writing in an Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) post that Black people (/wiki/Black_people) "fear for their lives daily in America and have done so for generations". [233] (#cite_note-236) During the 2012 United States presidential election (/wiki/2012_United_States_presidential_election) , Hathaway supported the presidential campaign (/wiki/Barack_Obama_2012_presidential_campaign) of Democratic Party (/wiki/Democratic_Party_(United_States)) politician Barack Obama (/wiki/Barack_Obama) . [234] (#cite_note-237) Four years later in 2016, she supported the campaign (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton_2016_presidential_campaign) of fellow Democratic politician Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) during that year's presidential election (/wiki/2016_United_States_presidential_election) , appearing at a benefit concert (/wiki/Benefit_concert) at the St. James Theatre (/wiki/St._James_Theatre) in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) alongside Sienna Miller (/wiki/Sienna_Miller) , Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) , Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) and Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) in support of the campaign. [235] (#cite_note-238) [236] (#cite_note-239) During the 2020 United States presidential election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) , she supported Democratic candidate Joe Biden (/wiki/Joe_Biden) . [237] (#cite_note-240) In 2022, in response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine (/wiki/Russian_invasion_of_Ukraine) , Hathaway stated that she was sending her "sincere prayers to the people of Ukraine" and made donations to the Ukrainian Red Cross Society (/wiki/Ukrainian_Red_Cross_Society) , UNICEF (/wiki/UNICEF) and Save the Children (/wiki/Save_the_Children) to help Ukrainians affected by the war. [238] (#cite_note-241) She praised the Berlin International Film Festival (/wiki/Berlin_International_Film_Festival) in 2023 for featuring Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelenskyy (/wiki/Volodymyr_Zelenskyy) , who gave a televised speech during the opening ceremony. [239] (#cite_note-242) Personal life Hathaway in 2017 In 2004, Hathaway began a romantic relationship with Italian real estate developer Raffaello Follieri (/wiki/Raffaello_Follieri) . [7] (#cite_note-msnbc-7) Follieri's Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) -based foundation focused on efforts such as providing vaccinations for children in poor countries. In June 2008, it was investigated by the IRS (/wiki/IRS) for failure to file required nonprofit information forms. [240] (#cite_note-243) In June 2008, Follieri was arrested on charges of defrauding investors out of millions of dollars in a scheme (/wiki/Vati-Con_scandal) in which he posed as the Vatican (/wiki/Holy_See) 's real-estate agent. [241] (#cite_note-244) It was reported that the FBI (/wiki/FBI) confiscated Hathaway's private journals from Follieri's New York City apartment as part of their ongoing investigation into Follieri's activities. Hathaway was not charged with any crime. [242] (#cite_note-245) In October 2008, after earlier pleading guilty, Follieri was sentenced to four and a half years in prison. [243] (#cite_note-246) In early 2007, Hathaway spoke of her experiences with depression (/wiki/Major_depressive_disorder) during her teens, saying that she eventually overcame the disorder without medication. [244] (#cite_note-247) In 2008, she began smoking after a stressful summer and the end of her relationship with Follieri. [245] (#cite_note-grills-248) She has credited quitting smoking for the subsequent decline in her stress level and returned to being a vegetarian. [245] (#cite_note-grills-248) [246] (#cite_note-249) Hathaway became a vegan (/wiki/Vegan) in early 2012, but she quit in 2014. [247] (#cite_note-250) [248] (#cite_note-251) [249] (#cite_note-252) Later, in October 2018, Hathaway also gave up alcohol and has since described herself as sober. [250] (#cite_note-253) [251] (#cite_note-254) [252] (#cite_note-255) Hathaway married actor and businessman Adam Shulman on September 29, 2012, in Big Sur, California (/wiki/Big_Sur,_California) , in a traditional Jewish ceremony (/wiki/Chuppah) . [253] (#cite_note-256) In 2015, she suffered a miscarriage. [254] (#cite_note-257) Their first son was born in March 2016. [255] (#cite_note-258) That year, Hathaway purchased an apartment worth $2.55 million on the Upper West Side (/wiki/Upper_West_Side) of Manhattan, where she lives with Shulman and their sons. [256] (#cite_note-259) Hathaway and Shulman sold their wedding photo and donated its profits to same-sex marriage (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) advocacy (/wiki/LGBT_rights) group Freedom to Marry (/wiki/Freedom_to_Marry) . They also hosted Freedom to Marry's National Engagement Party, an event which raised $500,000. [218] (#cite_note-allin-221) In July 2019, Hathaway announced they were expecting their second child together, and spoke publicly about her difficulty conceiving. [257] (#cite_note-260) Their second son was born in November 2019. [258] (#cite_note-261) Hathaway is a fan of the English Premier League football (/wiki/Premier_League) club Arsenal (/wiki/Arsenal_F.C.) . [259] (#cite_note-262) Acting credits and awards Main articles: List of Anne Hathaway performances (/wiki/List_of_Anne_Hathaway_performances) and List of awards and nominations received by Anne Hathaway (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Anne_Hathaway) Hathaway's most acclaimed and highest-grossing films, according to the online portal Box Office Mojo (/wiki/Box_Office_Mojo) and the review aggregate site Rotten Tomatoes (/wiki/Rotten_Tomatoes) , include The Princess Diaries (2001), Brokeback Mountain (2005), The Devil Wears Prada (2006), Get Smart (2008), Rachel Getting Married (2008), Valentine's Day (2010), Alice in Wonderland (2010), Love and Other Drugs (2010), The Dark Knight Rises (2012), Les Misérables (2012), Interstellar (2014), The Intern (2015), Colossal (2016), and Ocean's 8 (2018). [55] (#cite_note-highest-55) [260] (#cite_note-263) Hathaway has been nominated for two Academy Awards, [67] (#cite_note-racheloscar-68) [115] (#cite_note-eh-117) three Golden Globe Awards, [65] (#cite_note-rachel-66) [87] (#cite_note-lovegolden-88) [116] (#cite_note-les-118) and a British Academy Film Award. [116] (#cite_note-les-118) She has won an Academy Award, a Golden Globe, a Screen Actors Guild and a BAFTA Award for Best Supporting Actress for Les Misérables . [115] (#cite_note-eh-117) [116] (#cite_note-les-118) She has also won a Primetime Emmy Award for Outstanding Voice-Over Performance for her voice role in a 2010 episode of The Simpsons . [74] (#cite_note-emmy-75) In November 2018, Hathaway was one of 50 nominees for the New Jersey Hall of Fame (/wiki/New_Jersey_Hall_of_Fame) , an organization that honors contributions to society and the world beyond. [261] (#cite_note-264) In May 2019, Hathaway received a motion pictures star (/wiki/List_of_actors_with_Hollywood_Walk_of_Fame_motion_picture_stars) on the Hollywood Walk of Fame (/wiki/Hollywood_Walk_of_Fame) for her contributions to the film industry. [262] (#cite_note-265) Explanatory notes ^ (#cite_ref-59) Hathaway believed that if she did not perfect her accent, people would dismiss her performance in the first five minutes of the film. [58] (#cite_note-58) ^ (#cite_ref-97) Hathaway said to Scherfig, "I clearly didn't communicate to you what I needed to today. But I think these songs can do it for me"; Hathaway left Scherfig "Naughty Pines" by the Dirty Projectors (/wiki/Dirty_Projectors) and songs from For Emma, Forever Ago (/wiki/For_Emma,_Forever_Ago) by Bon Iver (/wiki/Bon_Iver) . After Scherfig listened to the songs, she asked Hathaway for more of these and cast her for the role. [95] (#cite_note-Toronto-96) ^ (#cite_ref-139) Hathaway had auditioned for Meyers' films What Women Want (/wiki/What_Women_Want) (2000) and The Holiday (/wiki/The_Holiday) (2006). [136] (#cite_note-audition-138) References ^ (#cite_ref-1) Bowenbank, Starr (January 14, 2021). "Anne Hathaway Says We've Been Calling Her The Wrong Name This Whole Time" (https://www.elle.com/uk/life-and-culture/culture/a35210787/anne-hathaway-wrong-name-career-annie/) . Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210114134425/https://www.elle.com/uk/life-and-culture/culture/a35210787/anne-hathaway-wrong-name-career-annie/) from the original on January 14, 2021 . Retrieved January 14, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Anne Hathaway" (https://www.biography.com/people/anne-hathaway-565920) . Biography.com (/wiki/Biography.com) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170501193632/http://www.biography.com/people/anne-hathaway-565920) from the original on May 1, 2017 . 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ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved April 28, 2024 . There are so many other things I identify as milestones. I don't normally talk about it, but I am over five years sober. That feels like a milestone to me. ^ (#cite_ref-254) Rennert, Jenna (January 22, 2019). "Here's Why Anne Hathaway Is Giving Up Alcohol" (https://www.vogue.com/article/anne-hathaway-giving-up-alcohol-motherhood) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Retrieved April 28, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-255) Harvey-Jenner, Catriona (January 23, 2019). "The reason Anne Hathaway is giving up alcohol for 18 years" (https://www.cosmopolitan.com/uk/body/health/a26005448/anne-hathaway-giving-up-alcohol-18-years/) . Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) . Retrieved April 28, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-256) Rowley, Alison (September 30, 2012). "Anne Hathaway, Adam Shulman marry" (http://www.digitalspy.com/showbiz/news/a409159/anne-hathaway-adam-shulman-marry/) . 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External links Anne Hathaway at Wikipedia's sister projects Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Anne_Hathaway_(actor)) from Commons Quotations (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) from Wikiquote Data (https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36301) from Wikidata Anne Hathaway (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0004266/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Anne Hathaway (https://www.allmusic.com/artist/mn0000923730) at AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic_(identifier)) Anne Hathaway (https://www.discogs.com/artist/2301916-Anne-Hathaway) discography at Discogs (/wiki/Discogs) Anne Hathaway (https://www.ibdb.com/broadway-cast-staff/455530) at the Internet Broadway Database (/wiki/Internet_Broadway_Database) Awards for Anne Hathaway (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Anne_Hathaway) v t e Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) 1936–1950 Gale Sondergaard (/wiki/Gale_Sondergaard) (1936) Alice Brady (/wiki/Alice_Brady) (1937) Fay Bainter 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Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2006) Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) (2007) Penélope Cruz (/wiki/Pen%C3%A9lope_Cruz) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Melissa Leo (/wiki/Melissa_Leo) (2010) Octavia Spencer (/wiki/Octavia_Spencer) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Alicia Vikander (/wiki/Alicia_Vikander) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Youn Yuh-jung (/wiki/Youn_Yuh-jung) (2020) Ariana DeBose (/wiki/Ariana_DeBose) (2021) Jamie Lee Curtis (/wiki/Jamie_Lee_Curtis) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e BAFTA Award for Best Actress in a Supporting Role (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Actress_in_a_Supporting_Role) Billie Whitelaw (/wiki/Billie_Whitelaw) (1968) Celia Johnson (/wiki/Celia_Johnson) (1969) Susannah York (/wiki/Susannah_York) (1970) Margaret Leighton (/wiki/Margaret_Leighton) (1971) Cloris Leachman (/wiki/Cloris_Leachman) (1972) Valentina Cortese (/wiki/Valentina_Cortese) (1973) Ingrid Bergman (/wiki/Ingrid_Bergman) (1974) Diane Ladd (/wiki/Diane_Ladd) (1975) Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (1976) Jenny Agutter (/wiki/Jenny_Agutter) (1977) Geraldine Page (/wiki/Geraldine_Page) (1978) Rachel Roberts (/wiki/Rachel_Roberts_(actress)) (1979) Rohini Hattangadi (/wiki/Rohini_Hattangadi) / Maureen Stapleton (/wiki/Maureen_Stapleton) (1982) Jamie Lee Curtis (/wiki/Jamie_Lee_Curtis) (1983) Liz Smith (/wiki/Liz_Smith_(actress)) (1984) Rosanna Arquette (/wiki/Rosanna_Arquette) (1985) Judi Dench (/wiki/Judi_Dench) (1986) Susan Wooldridge (/wiki/Susan_Wooldridge) (1987) Judi Dench (/wiki/Judi_Dench) (1988) Michelle Pfeiffer (/wiki/Michelle_Pfeiffer) (1989) Whoopi Goldberg (/wiki/Whoopi_Goldberg) (1990) Kate Nelligan (/wiki/Kate_Nelligan) (1991) Miranda Richardson (/wiki/Miranda_Richardson) (1992) Miriam Margolyes (/wiki/Miriam_Margolyes) (1993) Kristin Scott Thomas (/wiki/Kristin_Scott_Thomas) (1994) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (1995) Juliette Binoche (/wiki/Juliette_Binoche) (1996) Sigourney Weaver (/wiki/Sigourney_Weaver) (1997) Judi Dench (/wiki/Judi_Dench) (1998) Maggie Smith (/wiki/Maggie_Smith) (1999) Julie Walters (/wiki/Julie_Walters) (2000) Jennifer Connelly (/wiki/Jennifer_Connelly) (2001) Catherine Zeta-Jones (/wiki/Catherine_Zeta-Jones) (2002) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2003) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2004) Thandiwe Newton (/wiki/Thandiwe_Newton) (2005) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2006) Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) (2007) Penélope Cruz (/wiki/Pen%C3%A9lope_Cruz) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Helena Bonham Carter (/wiki/Helena_Bonham_Carter) (2010) Octavia Spencer (/wiki/Octavia_Spencer) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Jennifer Lawrence (/wiki/Jennifer_Lawrence) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Rachel Weisz (/wiki/Rachel_Weisz) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Youn Yuh-jung (/wiki/Youn_Yuh-jung) (2020) Ariana DeBose (/wiki/Ariana_DeBose) (2021) Kerry Condon (/wiki/Kerry_Condon) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e Chicago Film Critics Association Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Chicago_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Actress) Barbara Hershey (/wiki/Barbara_Hershey) (1988) Michelle Pfeiffer (/wiki/Michelle_Pfeiffer) (1989) Kathy Bates (/wiki/Kathy_Bates) (1990) Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (1991) Emma Thompson (/wiki/Emma_Thompson) (1992) Holly Hunter (/wiki/Holly_Hunter) (1993) Jennifer Jason Leigh (/wiki/Jennifer_Jason_Leigh) (1994) Elisabeth Shue (/wiki/Elisabeth_Shue) (1995) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (1996) Judi Dench (/wiki/Judi_Dench) (1997) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (1998) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (1999) Ellen Burstyn (/wiki/Ellen_Burstyn) (2000) Naomi Watts (/wiki/Naomi_Watts) (2001) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2002) Charlize Theron (/wiki/Charlize_Theron) (2003) Imelda Staunton (/wiki/Imelda_Staunton) (2004) Joan Allen (/wiki/Joan_Allen) (2005) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2006) Ellen Page (/wiki/Elliot_Page) (2007) Anne Hathaway (2008) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2009) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2010) Michelle Williams (/wiki/Michelle_Williams_(actress)) (2011) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2012) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2013) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2014) Brie Larson (/wiki/Brie_Larson) (2015) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2016) Saoirse Ronan (/wiki/Saoirse_Ronan) (2017) Toni Collette (/wiki/Toni_Collette) (2018) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2019) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (2020) Kristen Stewart (/wiki/Kristen_Stewart) (2021) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2022) Emma Stone (/wiki/Emma_Stone) (2023) v t e Critics' Choice Movie Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Critics%27_Choice_Movie_Award_for_Best_Actress) Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) (1995) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (1996) Helena Bonham Carter (/wiki/Helena_Bonham_Carter) (1997) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (1998) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (1999) Julia Roberts (/wiki/Julia_Roberts) (2000) Sissy Spacek (/wiki/Sissy_Spacek) (2001) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2002) Charlize Theron (/wiki/Charlize_Theron) (2003) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (2004) Reese Witherspoon (/wiki/Reese_Witherspoon) (2005) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2006) Julie Christie (/wiki/Julie_Christie) (2007) Anne Hathaway / Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (2008) Sandra Bullock (/wiki/Sandra_Bullock) / Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (2009) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2010) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2011) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2012) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2013) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2014) Brie Larson (/wiki/Brie_Larson) (2015) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2016) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (2017) Glenn Close (/wiki/Glenn_Close) / Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) (2018) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2019) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2020) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2021) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2022) Emma Stone (/wiki/Emma_Stone) (2023) v t e Critics' Choice Movie Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Critics%27_Choice_Movie_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Mira Sorvino (/wiki/Mira_Sorvino) (1995) Joan Allen (/wiki/Joan_Allen) (1996) Joan Cusack (/wiki/Joan_Cusack) (1997) Joan Allen (/wiki/Joan_Allen) / Kathy Bates (/wiki/Kathy_Bates) (1998) Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) (1999) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (2000) Jennifer Connelly (/wiki/Jennifer_Connelly) (2001) Catherine Zeta-Jones (/wiki/Catherine_Zeta-Jones) (2002) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2003) Virginia Madsen (/wiki/Virginia_Madsen) (2004) Amy Adams (/wiki/Amy_Adams) / Michelle Williams (/wiki/Michelle_Williams_(actress)) (2005) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2006) Amy Ryan (/wiki/Amy_Ryan) (2007) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Melissa Leo (/wiki/Melissa_Leo) (2010) Octavia Spencer (/wiki/Octavia_Spencer) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Alicia Vikander (/wiki/Alicia_Vikander) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Maria Bakalova (/wiki/Maria_Bakalova) (2020) Ariana DeBose (/wiki/Ariana_DeBose) (2021) Angela Bassett (/wiki/Angela_Bassett) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e Dallas–Fort Worth Film Critics Association Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Dallas%E2%80%93Fort_Worth_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Actress) Kathy Bates (/wiki/Kathy_Bates) (1990) Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (1991) Emma Thompson (/wiki/Emma_Thompson) (1992) Holly Hunter (/wiki/Holly_Hunter) (1993) Linda Fiorentino (/wiki/Linda_Fiorentino) / Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (1994) Elisabeth Shue (/wiki/Elisabeth_Shue) (1995) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (1996) Helena Bonham Carter (/wiki/Helena_Bonham_Carter) (1997) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (1998) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (1999) Laura Linney (/wiki/Laura_Linney) (2000) Sissy Spacek (/wiki/Sissy_Spacek) (2001) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2002) Charlize Theron (/wiki/Charlize_Theron) (2003) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (2004) Felicity Huffman (/wiki/Felicity_Huffman) (2005) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2006) Julie Christie (/wiki/Julie_Christie) (2007) Anne Hathaway (2008) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2009) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2010) Michelle Williams (/wiki/Michelle_Williams_(actress)) (2011) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2012) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2013) Reese Witherspoon (/wiki/Reese_Witherspoon) (2014) Brie Larson (/wiki/Brie_Larson) (2015) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2016) Sally Hawkins (/wiki/Sally_Hawkins) (2017) Olivia Colman (/wiki/Olivia_Colman) (2018) Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) (2019) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2020) Kristen Stewart (/wiki/Kristen_Stewart) (2021) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2022) Lily Gladstone (/wiki/Lily_Gladstone) (2023) v t e Detroit Film Critics Society Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Detroit_Film_Critics_Society_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) (2007) Marisa Tomei (/wiki/Marisa_Tomei) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Amy Adams (/wiki/Amy_Adams) (2010) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Alicia Vikander (/wiki/Alicia_Vikander) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) / Greta Gerwig (/wiki/Greta_Gerwig) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Youn Yuh-jung (/wiki/Youn_Yuh-jung) (2020) Ariana DeBose (/wiki/Ariana_DeBose) (2021) v t e Primetime Emmy Award for Outstanding Voice-Over Performance (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award_for_Outstanding_Voice-Over_Performance) 1990s Nancy Cartwright (/wiki/Nancy_Cartwright) / Dan Castellaneta (/wiki/Dan_Castellaneta) / Julie Kavner (/wiki/Julie_Kavner) / Jackie Mason (/wiki/Jackie_Mason) / Yeardley Smith (/wiki/Yeardley_Smith) / Marcia Wallace (/wiki/Marcia_Wallace) (1992) Dan Castellaneta (/wiki/Dan_Castellaneta) (1993) Christopher Plummer (/wiki/Christopher_Plummer) (1994) Jonathan Katz (/wiki/Jonathan_Katz) (1995) No Award (1996) Jeremy Irons (/wiki/Jeremy_Irons) / Rik Mayall (/wiki/Rik_Mayall) (1997) Hank Azaria (/wiki/Hank_Azaria) (1998) Ja'Net DuBois (/wiki/Ja%27Net_DuBois) (1999) 2000s Julie Harris (/wiki/Julie_Harris) / Seth MacFarlane (/wiki/Seth_MacFarlane) (2000) Hank Azaria (/wiki/Hank_Azaria) / Ja'Net DuBois (/wiki/Ja%27Net_DuBois) (2001) Pamela Adlon (/wiki/Pamela_Adlon) / Peter Macon (/wiki/Peter_Macon) (2002) Hank Azaria (/wiki/Hank_Azaria) (2003) Dan Castellaneta (/wiki/Dan_Castellaneta) (2004) Keith David (/wiki/Keith_David) (2005) Kelsey Grammer (/wiki/Kelsey_Grammer) (2006) No Award (2007) Keith David (/wiki/Keith_David) (2008) Dan Castellaneta (/wiki/Dan_Castellaneta) (2009) 2010s Anne Hathaway (2010) Maurice LaMarche (/wiki/Maurice_LaMarche) (2011) Maurice LaMarche (/wiki/Maurice_LaMarche) (2012) Lily Tomlin (/wiki/Lily_Tomlin) (2013) v t e Florida Film Critics Circle Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Florida_Film_Critics_Circle_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Courtney Love (/wiki/Courtney_Love) (1996) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (1997) Christina Ricci (/wiki/Christina_Ricci) (1998) Catherine Keener (/wiki/Catherine_Keener) (1999) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (2000) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2001) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (2002) Patricia Clarkson (/wiki/Patricia_Clarkson) (2003) Laura Linney (/wiki/Laura_Linney) (2004) Amy Adams (/wiki/Amy_Adams) (2005) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2006) Amy Ryan (/wiki/Amy_Ryan) (2007) Marisa Tomei (/wiki/Marisa_Tomei) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Melissa Leo (/wiki/Melissa_Leo) (2010) Shailene Woodley (/wiki/Shailene_Woodley) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Kristen Stewart (/wiki/Kristen_Stewart) (2015) Michelle Williams (/wiki/Michelle_Williams_(actress)) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Sakura Ando (/wiki/Sakura_Ando) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Maria Bakalova (/wiki/Maria_Bakalova) (2020) Ariana DeBose (/wiki/Ariana_DeBose) (2021) Jessie Buckley (/wiki/Jessie_Buckley) / Nina Hoss (/wiki/Nina_Hoss) (2022) Rachel McAdams (/wiki/Rachel_McAdams) (2023) v t e Golden Globe Award for Best Supporting Actress – Motion Picture (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) 1943–1975 Katina Paxinou (/wiki/Katina_Paxinou) (1943) Agnes Moorehead (/wiki/Agnes_Moorehead) (1944) Angela Lansbury (/wiki/Angela_Lansbury) (1945) Anne Baxter (/wiki/Anne_Baxter) (1946) Celeste Holm (/wiki/Celeste_Holm) (1947) Ellen Corby (/wiki/Ellen_Corby) (1948) Mercedes McCambridge (/wiki/Mercedes_McCambridge) (1949) Josephine Hull (/wiki/Josephine_Hull) (1950) Kim Hunter (/wiki/Kim_Hunter) (1951) Katy Jurado (/wiki/Katy_Jurado) (1952) Grace Kelly (/wiki/Grace_Kelly) (1953) Jan Sterling (/wiki/Jan_Sterling) (1954) Marisa Pavan (/wiki/Marisa_Pavan) (1955) Eileen Heckart (/wiki/Eileen_Heckart) (1956) Elsa Lanchester (/wiki/Elsa_Lanchester) (1957) Hermione Gingold (/wiki/Hermione_Gingold) (1958) Susan Kohner (/wiki/Susan_Kohner) (1959) Janet Leigh (/wiki/Janet_Leigh) (1960) Rita Moreno (/wiki/Rita_Moreno) (1961) Angela Lansbury (/wiki/Angela_Lansbury) (1962) Margaret Rutherford (/wiki/Margaret_Rutherford) (1963) Agnes Moorehead (/wiki/Agnes_Moorehead) (1964) Ruth Gordon (/wiki/Ruth_Gordon) (1965) Jocelyne LaGarde (/wiki/Jocelyne_LaGarde) (1966) Carol Channing (/wiki/Carol_Channing) (1967) Ruth Gordon (/wiki/Ruth_Gordon) (1968) Goldie Hawn (/wiki/Goldie_Hawn) (1969) Karen Black (/wiki/Karen_Black) / Maureen Stapleton (/wiki/Maureen_Stapleton) (1970) Ann-Margret (/wiki/Ann-Margret) (1971) Shelley Winters (/wiki/Shelley_Winters) (1972) Linda Blair (/wiki/Linda_Blair) (1973) Karen Black (/wiki/Karen_Black) (1974) Brenda Vaccaro (/wiki/Brenda_Vaccaro) (1975) 1976–2000 Katharine Ross (/wiki/Katharine_Ross) (1976) Vanessa Redgrave (/wiki/Vanessa_Redgrave) (1977) Dyan Cannon (/wiki/Dyan_Cannon) (1978) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (1979) Mary Steenburgen (/wiki/Mary_Steenburgen) (1980) Joan Hackett (/wiki/Joan_Hackett) (1981) Jessica Lange (/wiki/Jessica_Lange) (1982) Cher (/wiki/Cher) (1983) Peggy Ashcroft (/wiki/Peggy_Ashcroft) (1984) Meg Tilly (/wiki/Meg_Tilly) (1985) Maggie Smith (/wiki/Maggie_Smith) (1986) Olympia Dukakis (/wiki/Olympia_Dukakis) (1987) Sigourney Weaver (/wiki/Sigourney_Weaver) (1988) Julia Roberts (/wiki/Julia_Roberts) (1989) Whoopi Goldberg (/wiki/Whoopi_Goldberg) (1990) Mercedes Ruehl (/wiki/Mercedes_Ruehl) (1991) Joan Plowright (/wiki/Joan_Plowright) (1992) Winona Ryder (/wiki/Winona_Ryder) (1993) Dianne Wiest (/wiki/Dianne_Wiest) (1994) Mira Sorvino (/wiki/Mira_Sorvino) (1995) Lauren Bacall (/wiki/Lauren_Bacall) (1996) Kim Basinger (/wiki/Kim_Basinger) (1997) Lynn Redgrave (/wiki/Lynn_Redgrave) (1998) Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) (1999) Kate Hudson (/wiki/Kate_Hudson) (2000) 2001–present Jennifer Connelly (/wiki/Jennifer_Connelly) (2001) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (2002) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2003) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2004) Rachel Weisz (/wiki/Rachel_Weisz) (2005) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2006) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2007) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Melissa Leo (/wiki/Melissa_Leo) (2010) Octavia Spencer (/wiki/Octavia_Spencer) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Jennifer Lawrence (/wiki/Jennifer_Lawrence) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (2020) Ariana DeBose (/wiki/Ariana_DeBose) (2021) Angela Bassett (/wiki/Angela_Bassett) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e Hasty Pudding Woman of the Year (/wiki/Hasty_Pudding_Woman_of_the_Year) 1951–1975 Gertrude Lawrence (/wiki/Gertrude_Lawrence) (1951) Barbara Bel Geddes (/wiki/Barbara_Bel_Geddes) (1952) Mamie Eisenhower (/wiki/Mamie_Eisenhower) (1953) Shirley Booth (/wiki/Shirley_Booth) (1954) Debbie Reynolds (/wiki/Debbie_Reynolds) (1955) Peggy Ann Garner (/wiki/Peggy_Ann_Garner) (1956) Carroll Baker (/wiki/Carroll_Baker) (1957) Katharine Hepburn (/wiki/Katharine_Hepburn) (1958) Joanne Woodward (/wiki/Joanne_Woodward) (1959) Carol Lawrence (/wiki/Carol_Lawrence) (1960) Jane Fonda (/wiki/Jane_Fonda) (1961) Piper Laurie (/wiki/Piper_Laurie) (1962) Shirley MacLaine (/wiki/Shirley_MacLaine) (1963) Rosalind Russell (/wiki/Rosalind_Russell) (1964) Lee Remick (/wiki/Lee_Remick) (1965) Ethel Merman (/wiki/Ethel_Merman) (1966) Lauren Bacall (/wiki/Lauren_Bacall) (1967) Angela Lansbury (/wiki/Angela_Lansbury) (1968) Carol Burnett (/wiki/Carol_Burnett) (1969) Dionne Warwick (/wiki/Dionne_Warwick) (1970) Carol Channing (/wiki/Carol_Channing) (1971) Ruby Keeler (/wiki/Ruby_Keeler) (1972) Liza Minnelli (/wiki/Liza_Minnelli) (1973) Faye Dunaway (/wiki/Faye_Dunaway) (1974) Valerie Harper (/wiki/Valerie_Harper) (1975) 1976–2000 Bette Midler (/wiki/Bette_Midler) (1976) Elizabeth Taylor (/wiki/Elizabeth_Taylor) (1977) Beverly Sills (/wiki/Beverly_Sills) (1978) Candice Bergen (/wiki/Candice_Bergen) (1979) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (1980) Mary Tyler Moore (/wiki/Mary_Tyler_Moore) (1981) Ella Fitzgerald (/wiki/Ella_Fitzgerald) (1982) Julie Andrews (/wiki/Julie_Andrews) (1983) Joan Rivers (/wiki/Joan_Rivers) (1984) Cher (/wiki/Cher) (1985) Sally Field (/wiki/Sally_Field) (1986) Bernadette Peters (/wiki/Bernadette_Peters) (1987) Lucille Ball (/wiki/Lucille_Ball) (1988) Kathleen Turner (/wiki/Kathleen_Turner) (1989) Glenn Close (/wiki/Glenn_Close) (1990) Diane Keaton (/wiki/Diane_Keaton) (1991) Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (1992) Whoopi Goldberg (/wiki/Whoopi_Goldberg) (1993) Meg Ryan (/wiki/Meg_Ryan) (1994) Michelle Pfeiffer (/wiki/Michelle_Pfeiffer) (1995) Susan Sarandon (/wiki/Susan_Sarandon) (1996) Julia Roberts (/wiki/Julia_Roberts) (1997) Sigourney Weaver (/wiki/Sigourney_Weaver) (1998) Goldie Hawn (/wiki/Goldie_Hawn) (1999) Jamie Lee Curtis (/wiki/Jamie_Lee_Curtis) (2000) 2001–present Drew Barrymore (/wiki/Drew_Barrymore) (2001) Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) (2002) Anjelica Huston (/wiki/Anjelica_Huston) (2003) Sandra Bullock (/wiki/Sandra_Bullock) (2004) Catherine Zeta-Jones (/wiki/Catherine_Zeta-Jones) (2005) Halle Berry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) (2006) Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) (2007) Charlize Theron (/wiki/Charlize_Theron) (2008) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2009) Anne Hathaway (2010) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2011) Claire Danes (/wiki/Claire_Danes) (2012) Marion Cotillard (/wiki/Marion_Cotillard) (2013) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2014) Amy Poehler (/wiki/Amy_Poehler) (2015) Kerry Washington (/wiki/Kerry_Washington) (2016) Octavia Spencer (/wiki/Octavia_Spencer) (2017) Mila Kunis (/wiki/Mila_Kunis) (2018) Bryce Dallas Howard (/wiki/Bryce_Dallas_Howard) (2019) Elizabeth Banks (/wiki/Elizabeth_Banks) (2020) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2021) Jennifer Garner (/wiki/Jennifer_Garner) (2022) Jennifer Coolidge (/wiki/Jennifer_Coolidge) (2023) Annette Bening (/wiki/Annette_Bening) (2024) v t e Houston Film Critics Society Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Houston_Film_Critics_Society_Award_for_Best_Actress) Julie Christie (/wiki/Julie_Christie) (2007) Anne Hathaway (2008) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2009) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2010) Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) (2011) Jennifer Lawrence (/wiki/Jennifer_Lawrence) (2012) Sandra Bullock (/wiki/Sandra_Bullock) (2013) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2014) Brie Larson (/wiki/Brie_Larson) (2015) Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) (2016) Sally Hawkins (/wiki/Sally_Hawkins) (2017) Toni Collette (/wiki/Toni_Collette) (2018) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2019) Carey Mulligan (/wiki/Carey_Mulligan) (2020) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2021) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2022) Emma Stone (/wiki/Emma_Stone) (2023) v t e Houston Film Critics Society Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Houston_Film_Critics_Society_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Amy Ryan (/wiki/Amy_Ryan) (2007) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2008) Anna Kendrick (/wiki/Anna_Kendrick) (2009) Hailee Steinfeld (/wiki/Hailee_Steinfeld) (2010) Shailene Woodley (/wiki/Shailene_Woodley) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Rooney Mara (/wiki/Rooney_Mara) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2016) Allison Janney (/wiki/Allison_Janney) (2017) Rachel Weisz (/wiki/Rachel_Weisz) (2018) Zhao Shu-zhen (/wiki/Zhao_Shu-zhen) (2019) Maria Bakalova (/wiki/Maria_Bakalova) (2020) Ann Dowd (/wiki/Ann_Dowd) (2021) Kerry Condon (/wiki/Kerry_Condon) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e London Film Critics' Circle Award for Supporting Actress of the Year (/wiki/London_Film_Critics%27_Circle_Award_for_Supporting_Actress_of_the_Year) Sareh Bayat (/wiki/Sareh_Bayat) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (2015) Naomie Harris (/wiki/Naomie_Harris) (2016) Lesley Manville (/wiki/Lesley_Manville) (2017) Rachel Weisz (/wiki/Rachel_Weisz) (2018) Laura Dern (/wiki/Laura_Dern) (2019) Maria Bakalova (/wiki/Maria_Bakalova) (2020) Ruth Negga (/wiki/Ruth_Negga) (2021) Kerry Condon (/wiki/Kerry_Condon) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e National Board of Review Award for Best Actress (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review_Award_for_Best_Actress) 1945–1975 Joan Crawford (/wiki/Joan_Crawford) (1945) Anna Magnani (/wiki/Anna_Magnani) (1946) Celia Johnson (/wiki/Celia_Johnson) (1947) Olivia de Havilland (/wiki/Olivia_de_Havilland) (1948) Gloria Swanson (/wiki/Gloria_Swanson) (1950) Jan Sterling (/wiki/Jan_Sterling) (1951) Shirley Booth (/wiki/Shirley_Booth) (1952) Jean Simmons (/wiki/Jean_Simmons) (1953) Grace Kelly (/wiki/Grace_Kelly) (1954) Anna Magnani (/wiki/Anna_Magnani) (1955) Dorothy McGuire (/wiki/Dorothy_McGuire) (1956) Joanne Woodward (/wiki/Joanne_Woodward) (1957) Ingrid Bergman (/wiki/Ingrid_Bergman) (1958) Simone Signoret (/wiki/Simone_Signoret) (1959) Greer Garson (/wiki/Greer_Garson) (1960) Geraldine Page (/wiki/Geraldine_Page) (1961) Anne Bancroft (/wiki/Anne_Bancroft) (1962) Patricia Neal (/wiki/Patricia_Neal) (1963) Kim Stanley (/wiki/Kim_Stanley) (1964) Julie Christie (/wiki/Julie_Christie) (1965) Elizabeth Taylor (/wiki/Elizabeth_Taylor) (1966) Edith Evans (/wiki/Edith_Evans) (1967) Liv Ullmann (/wiki/Liv_Ullmann) (1968) Geraldine Page (/wiki/Geraldine_Page) (1969) Glenda Jackson (/wiki/Glenda_Jackson) (1970) Irene Papas (/wiki/Irene_Papas) (1971) Cicely Tyson (/wiki/Cicely_Tyson) (1972) Liv Ullmann (/wiki/Liv_Ullmann) (1973) Gena Rowlands (/wiki/Gena_Rowlands) (1974) Isabelle Adjani (/wiki/Isabelle_Adjani) (1975) 1976–2000 Liv Ullmann (/wiki/Liv_Ullmann) (1976) Anne Bancroft (/wiki/Anne_Bancroft) (1977) Ingrid Bergman (/wiki/Ingrid_Bergman) (1978) Sally Field (/wiki/Sally_Field) (1979) Sissy Spacek (/wiki/Sissy_Spacek) (1980) Glenda Jackson (/wiki/Glenda_Jackson) (1981) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (1982) Shirley MacLaine (/wiki/Shirley_MacLaine) (1983) Peggy Ashcroft (/wiki/Peggy_Ashcroft) (1984) Whoopi Goldberg (/wiki/Whoopi_Goldberg) (1985) Kathleen Turner (/wiki/Kathleen_Turner) (1986) Lillian Gish (/wiki/Lillian_Gish) / Holly Hunter (/wiki/Holly_Hunter) (1987) Jodie Foster (/wiki/Jodie_Foster) (1988) Michelle Pfeiffer (/wiki/Michelle_Pfeiffer) (1989) Mia Farrow (/wiki/Mia_Farrow) (1990) Geena Davis (/wiki/Geena_Davis) / Susan Sarandon (/wiki/Susan_Sarandon) (1991) Emma Thompson (/wiki/Emma_Thompson) (1992) Holly Hunter (/wiki/Holly_Hunter) (1993) Miranda Richardson (/wiki/Miranda_Richardson) (1994) Emma Thompson (/wiki/Emma_Thompson) (1995) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (1996) Helena Bonham Carter (/wiki/Helena_Bonham_Carter) (1997) Fernanda Montenegro (/wiki/Fernanda_Montenegro) (1998) Janet McTeer (/wiki/Janet_McTeer) (1999) Julia Roberts (/wiki/Julia_Roberts) (2000) 2001–present Halle Berry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) (2001) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2002) Diane Keaton (/wiki/Diane_Keaton) (2003) Annette Bening (/wiki/Annette_Bening) (2004) Felicity Huffman (/wiki/Felicity_Huffman) (2005) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2006) Julie Christie (/wiki/Julie_Christie) (2007) Anne 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(/wiki/Jennifer_Connelly) (2001) Samantha Morton (/wiki/Samantha_Morton) (2002) Shohreh Aghdashloo (/wiki/Shohreh_Aghdashloo) (2003) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2004) Maria Bello (/wiki/Maria_Bello) (2005) Abigail Breslin (/wiki/Abigail_Breslin) (2006) Amy Ryan (/wiki/Amy_Ryan) (2007) Marisa Tomei (/wiki/Marisa_Tomei) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Hailee Steinfeld (/wiki/Hailee_Steinfeld) (2010) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Rooney Mara (/wiki/Rooney_Mara) (2015) Naomie Harris (/wiki/Naomie_Harris) (2016) Laurie Metcalf (/wiki/Laurie_Metcalf) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) (2019) Maria Bakalova (/wiki/Maria_Bakalova) (2020) Kirsten Dunst (/wiki/Kirsten_Dunst) (2021) Kerry Condon (/wiki/Kerry_Condon) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e Satellite Award for Best Actress – Motion Picture (/wiki/Satellite_Award_for_Best_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) Drama (1996–2010, 2018–present) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (1996) Judi Dench (/wiki/Judi_Dench) (1997) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (1998) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (1999) Ellen Burstyn (/wiki/Ellen_Burstyn) (2000) Sissy Spacek (/wiki/Sissy_Spacek) (2001) Diane Lane (/wiki/Diane_Lane) (2002) Charlize Theron (/wiki/Charlize_Theron) (2003) Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) (2004) Felicity Huffman (/wiki/Felicity_Huffman) (2005) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2006) Marion Cotillard (/wiki/Marion_Cotillard) (2007) Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) (2008) Shohreh Aghdashloo (/wiki/Shohreh_Aghdashloo) (2009) Noomi Rapace (/wiki/Noomi_Rapace) (2010) Glenn Close (/wiki/Glenn_Close) (2018) Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) (2019) Frances McDormand (/wiki/Frances_McDormand) (2020) Kristen Stewart (/wiki/Kristen_Stewart) (2021) Danielle Deadwyler (/wiki/Danielle_Deadwyler) (2022) Lily Gladstone (/wiki/Lily_Gladstone) (2023) Musical or Comedy (1996–2010, 2018–present) Gwyneth Paltrow (/wiki/Gwyneth_Paltrow) (1996) Helen Hunt (/wiki/Helen_Hunt) (1997) Christina Ricci (/wiki/Christina_Ricci) (1998) Janet McTeer (/wiki/Janet_McTeer) (1999) Renée Zellweger (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Zellweger) (2000) Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) (2001) Jennifer Westfeldt (/wiki/Jennifer_Westfeldt) (2002) Diane Keaton (/wiki/Diane_Keaton) (2003) Annette Bening (/wiki/Annette_Bening) (2004) Reese Witherspoon (/wiki/Reese_Witherspoon) (2005) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (2006) Ellen Page (/wiki/Elliot_Page) (2007) Sally Hawkins (/wiki/Sally_Hawkins) (2008) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) (2009) Anne Hathaway (2010) Olivia Colman (/wiki/Olivia_Colman) (2018) Awkwafina (/wiki/Awkwafina) (2019) Maria Bakalova (/wiki/Maria_Bakalova) (2020) Alana Haim (/wiki/Alana_Haim) (2021) Michelle Yeoh (/wiki/Michelle_Yeoh) (2022) Emma Stone (/wiki/Emma_Stone) (2023) Motion Picture (2011–2017) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2011) Jennifer Lawrence (/wiki/Jennifer_Lawrence) (2012) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2013) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (2014) Saoirse Ronan (/wiki/Saoirse_Ronan) (2015) Isabelle Huppert (/wiki/Isabelle_Huppert) / Ruth Negga (/wiki/Ruth_Negga) (2016) Sally Hawkins (/wiki/Sally_Hawkins) / Diane Kruger (/wiki/Diane_Kruger) (2017) v t e Satellite Award for Best Supporting Actress – Motion Picture (/wiki/Satellite_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) Drama (1996–2005) Courtney Love (/wiki/Courtney_Love) (1996) Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) (1997) Kimberly Elise (/wiki/Kimberly_Elise) (1998) Chloë Sevigny (/wiki/Chlo%C3%AB_Sevigny) (1999) Jennifer Ehle (/wiki/Jennifer_Ehle) / Rosemary Harris (/wiki/Rosemary_Harris) (2000) Jennifer Connelly (/wiki/Jennifer_Connelly) (2001) Edie Falco (/wiki/Edie_Falco) (2002) Maria Bello (/wiki/Maria_Bello) (2003) Gena Rowlands (/wiki/Gena_Rowlands) (2004) Laura Linney (/wiki/Laura_Linney) (2005) Musical or Comedy (1996–2005) Debbie Reynolds (/wiki/Debbie_Reynolds) (1996) Joan Cusack (/wiki/Joan_Cusack) (1997) Joan Allen (/wiki/Joan_Allen) (1998) Catherine Keener (/wiki/Catherine_Keener) (1999) Kate Hudson (/wiki/Kate_Hudson) (2000) Maggie Smith (/wiki/Maggie_Smith) (2001) Tovah Feldshuh (/wiki/Tovah_Feldshuh) (2002) Patricia Clarkson (/wiki/Patricia_Clarkson) (2003) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2004) Rosario Dawson (/wiki/Rosario_Dawson) (2005) Motion Picture (2006–present) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2006) Amy Ryan (/wiki/Amy_Ryan) (2007) Rosemarie DeWitt (/wiki/Rosemarie_DeWitt) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Jacki Weaver (/wiki/Jacki_Weaver) (2010) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) June Squibb (/wiki/June_Squibb) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Alicia Vikander (/wiki/Alicia_Vikander) (2015) Naomie Harris (/wiki/Naomie_Harris) (2016) Lois Smith (/wiki/Lois_Smith) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) (2019) Amanda Seyfried (/wiki/Amanda_Seyfried) (2020) Kirsten Dunst (/wiki/Kirsten_Dunst) (2021) Claire Foy (/wiki/Claire_Foy) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) v t e Saturn Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Saturn_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) 1970s Ida Lupino (/wiki/Ida_Lupino) (1974/75) Bette Davis (/wiki/Bette_Davis) (1976) Susan Tyrrell (/wiki/Susan_Tyrrell) (1977) Dyan Cannon (/wiki/Dyan_Cannon) (1978) Veronica Cartwright (/wiki/Veronica_Cartwright) (1979) 1980s Eve Brent (/wiki/Eve_Brent) (1980) Frances Sternhagen (/wiki/Frances_Sternhagen) (1981) Zelda Rubinstein (/wiki/Zelda_Rubinstein) (1982) Candy Clark (/wiki/Candy_Clark) (1983) Polly Holliday (/wiki/Polly_Holliday) (1984) Anne Ramsey (/wiki/Anne_Ramsey) (1985) Jenette Goldstein (/wiki/Jenette_Goldstein) (1986) Anne Ramsey (/wiki/Anne_Ramsey) (1987) Sylvia Sidney (/wiki/Sylvia_Sidney) (1988) Whoopi Goldberg (/wiki/Whoopi_Goldberg) (1989/90) 1990s Mercedes Ruehl (/wiki/Mercedes_Ruehl) (1991) Isabella Rossellini (/wiki/Isabella_Rossellini) (1992) Amanda Plummer (/wiki/Amanda_Plummer) (1993) Mia Sara (/wiki/Mia_Sara) (1994) Bonnie Hunt (/wiki/Bonnie_Hunt) (1995) Alice Krige (/wiki/Alice_Krige) (1996) Gloria Stuart (/wiki/Gloria_Stuart) (1997) Joan Allen (/wiki/Joan_Allen) (1998) Patricia Clarkson (/wiki/Patricia_Clarkson) (1999) 2000s Rebecca Romijn-Stamos (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) (2000) Fionnula Flanagan (/wiki/Fionnula_Flanagan) (2001) Samantha Morton (/wiki/Samantha_Morton) (2002) Ellen DeGeneres (/wiki/Ellen_DeGeneres) (2003) Daryl Hannah (/wiki/Daryl_Hannah) (2004) Summer Glau (/wiki/Summer_Glau) (2005) Famke Janssen (/wiki/Famke_Janssen) (2006) Marcia Gay Harden (/wiki/Marcia_Gay_Harden) (2007) Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) (2008) Sigourney Weaver (/wiki/Sigourney_Weaver) (2009) 2010s Mila Kunis (/wiki/Mila_Kunis) (2010) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) (2013) Rene Russo (/wiki/Rene_Russo) (2014) Jessica Chastain (/wiki/Jessica_Chastain) (2015) Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) (2016) Danai Gurira (/wiki/Danai_Gurira) (2017) Zendaya (/wiki/Zendaya) (2018/19) Ana de Armas (/wiki/Ana_de_Armas) (2019/20) 2020s Awkwafina (/wiki/Awkwafina) (2021/22) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) (2022/23) v t e Screen Actors Guild Award for Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Supporting Role (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award_for_Outstanding_Performance_by_a_Female_Actor_in_a_Supporting_Role) Dianne Wiest (/wiki/Dianne_Wiest) (1994) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (1995) Lauren Bacall (/wiki/Lauren_Bacall) (1996) Kim Basinger (/wiki/Kim_Basinger) / Gloria Stuart (/wiki/Gloria_Stuart) (1997) Kathy Bates (/wiki/Kathy_Bates) (1998) Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) (1999) Judi Dench (/wiki/Judi_Dench) (2000) 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t e Washington D.C. Area Film Critics Association Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Washington_D.C._Area_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Kathy Bates (/wiki/Kathy_Bates) (2002) Anna Deavere Smith (/wiki/Anna_Deavere_Smith) (2003) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2004) Amy Adams (/wiki/Amy_Adams) (2005) Jennifer Hudson (/wiki/Jennifer_Hudson) (2006) Amy Ryan (/wiki/Amy_Ryan) (2007) Rosemarie DeWitt (/wiki/Rosemarie_DeWitt) (2008) Mo'Nique (/wiki/Mo%27Nique) (2009) Melissa Leo (/wiki/Melissa_Leo) (2010) Octavia Spencer (/wiki/Octavia_Spencer) (2011) Anne Hathaway (2012) Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) (2013) Patricia Arquette (/wiki/Patricia_Arquette) (2014) Alicia Vikander (/wiki/Alicia_Vikander) (2015) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2016) Laurie Metcalf (/wiki/Laurie_Metcalf) (2017) Regina King (/wiki/Regina_King) (2018) Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) (2019) Youn Yuh-jung (/wiki/Youn_Yuh-jung) (2020) Aunjanue Ellis (/wiki/Aunjanue_Ellis-Taylor) (2021) Kerry Condon (/wiki/Kerry_Condon) (2022) Da'Vine Joy Randolph (/wiki/Da%27Vine_Joy_Randolph) (2023) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Biography (/wiki/Portal:Biography) New York City (/wiki/Portal:New_York_City) Theatre (/wiki/Portal:Theatre) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Disney (/wiki/Portal:Disney) Television (/wiki/Portal:Television) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/1565333/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000121413857) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/80639285) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJx4twj6FVW68YHf6ghmBP) National Norway (https://authority.bibsys.no/authority/rest/authorities/html/7016437) Spain (http://catalogo.bne.es/uhtbin/authoritybrowse.cgi?action=display&authority_id=XX1506004) France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14185832k) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14185832k) Catalonia (https://cantic.bnc.cat/registre/981058522308606706) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/136264387) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007432192505171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n2001020932) Sweden (https://libris.kb.se/dbqt2c0x33rwzkp) Czech Republic (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=xx0052519&CON_LNG=ENG) Australia (https://nla.gov.au/anbd.aut-an40920846) Netherlands (http://data.bibliotheken.nl/id/thes/p238443949) Poland (https://dbn.bn.org.pl/descriptor-details/9810621333905606) Artists Emmy Awards (https://www.emmys.com/bios/anne-hathaway) MusicBrainz (https://musicbrainz.org/artist/30ddca33-95e8-491b-85ba-675cd0486a0c) People Deutsche Synchronkartei (https://www.synchronkartei.de/person/mB8-nFOfZ) Trove (https://trove.nla.gov.au/people/1449716) Other SNAC (https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w6hf16fn) IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/113504934) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐8jnqn Cached time: 20240720163110 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 3.242 seconds Real time usage: 4.603 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 17597/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 932507/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 156421/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 23/100 Expensive parser function count: 41/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 1221888/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 1.987/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 12535042/52428800 bytes Lua Profile: MediaWiki\Extension\Scribunto\Engines\LuaSandbox\LuaSandboxCallback::callParserFunction 300 ms 13.9% ? 280 ms 13.0% dataWrapper <mw.lua:672> 220 ms 10.2% recursiveClone <mwInit.lua:45> 200 ms 9.3% MediaWiki\Extension\Scribunto\Engines\LuaSandbox\LuaSandboxCallback::match 120 ms 5.6% MediaWiki\Extension\Scribunto\Engines\LuaSandbox\LuaSandboxCallback::gsub 100 ms 4.6% <mw.lua:694> 100 ms 4.6% (for generator) 60 ms 2.8% gsub 40 ms 1.9% MediaWiki\Extension\Scribunto\Engines\LuaSandbox\LuaSandboxCallback::find 40 ms 1.9% [others] 700 ms 32.4% Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 3773.207 1 -total 46.98% 1772.691 2 Template:Reflist 20.36% 768.156 136 Template:Cite_web 13.88% 523.879 92 Template:Cite_news 11.49% 433.548 1 Template:Infobox_person 9.97% 376.282 1 Template:About 9.06% 341.922 1 Template:Navboxes 5.60% 211.348 21 Template:Navbox 4.45% 168.003 32 Template:Cite_magazine 4.23% 159.757 18 Template:Pluralize_from_text Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:604244-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720163110 and revision id 1234193414. 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Class of clothing for special occasions or events This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Formal_wear) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Formal wear" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Formal+wear%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Formal+wear%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Formal+wear%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Formal+wear%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Formal+wear%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Formal+wear%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( April 2013 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Formal wear or full dress is the Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) category applicable for the most formal occasions, such as weddings (/wiki/Wedding) , christenings (/wiki/Baptism) , confirmations (/wiki/Confirmation) , funerals (/wiki/Funeral) , Easter (/wiki/Easter_traditions) and Christmas traditions (/wiki/Christmas_traditions) , in addition to certain state dinners (/wiki/State_dinner) , audiences (/wiki/Audience_(meeting)) , balls (/wiki/Ball_(dance_party)) , and horse racing (/wiki/Horse_racing) events. Generally permitted other alternatives, though, are the most formal versions of ceremonial dresses (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) (including court dresses (/wiki/Court_dress) , diplomatic uniforms (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) and academic dresses (/wiki/Academic_dress) ), full dress uniforms (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) , religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) , national costumes (/wiki/National_costume) , and most rarely frock coats (/wiki/Frock_coat) (which preceded morning coat as default formal day wear 1820s-1920s). In addition, formal wear is often instructed to be worn with official full size orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) and medals (/wiki/Medal) . The protocol (/wiki/Etiquette) indicating particularly men's traditional formal wear has remained virtually unchanged since the early 20th century. Despite decline following the counterculture of the 1960s (/wiki/Counterculture_of_the_1960s) , it remains observed in formal settings influenced by Western culture (/wiki/Western_culture) : notably around Europe (/wiki/Europe) , the Americas (/wiki/Americas) , South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) , as well as Japan (/wiki/Japan) . For women, although fundamental customs for formal ball gowns (/wiki/Ball_gown) (and wedding gowns (/wiki/Wedding_gown) ) likewise apply, changes in fashion (/wiki/Fashion) have been more dynamic. Traditional formal headgear (/wiki/Headgear) for men is the top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) , and for women picture hats (/wiki/Picture_hat) etc. of a range of interpretations. Shoes for men are dress shoes (/wiki/Dress_shoes) , dress boots (/wiki/Dress_boot) or pumps (/wiki/Court_shoe) and for women heeled dress pumps (/wiki/Court_shoe#Womenswear) . In western countries, a "formal" or white tie (/wiki/White_tie) dress code typically means tailcoats for men and evening dresses (/wiki/Evening_gown) for women. The most formal dress for women is a full-length ball (/wiki/Ball_gown) or evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) with evening gloves (/wiki/Evening_gloves) . Some white tie functions also request that the women wear long gloves (/wiki/Long_gloves) past the elbow. Formal wear being the most formal dress code, it is followed by semi-formal wear (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) , equivalently based around daytime black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) , and evening black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) ( dinner suit/tuxedo ), and evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) for women. The male lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) and female cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) in turn only comes after this level, traditionally associated with informal attire (/wiki/Informal_attire) . Notably, if a level of flexibility is indicated (for example "uniform, morning coat or lounge suit", such as seen to the royal wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle (/wiki/Wedding_of_Prince_Harry_and_Meghan_Markle) in 2018), the hosts tend to wear the most formal interpretation of that dress code in order to save guests the inconvenience of out-dressing. Since the most formal versions of national costumes are typically permitted as supplementary alternatives to the uniformity of Western formal dress codes, conversely, since most cultures have at least intuitively applied some equivalent level of formality, the versatile framework of Western formal dress codes open to amalgamation of international and local customs have influenced its competitiveness as international standard. From these social conventions derive in turn also the variants worn on related occasions of varying solemnity, such as formal political (/wiki/Political) , diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomacy) , and academic (/wiki/Academic) events, in addition to certain parties (/wiki/Parties) including award (/wiki/Award) ceremonies, balls, fraternal orders (/wiki/Fraternal_order) , high school (/wiki/High_school) proms (/wiki/Prom) , etc. History [ edit ] The woman on the left displays a more romantic modern approach and Lourett Russell Grant (/wiki/Lourett_Russell_Grant) on the right wears the most formal dress with evening gloves. Clothing norms and fashions fluctuated regionally in the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) . More widespread conventions emerged around royal courts (/wiki/Royal_court) in Europe (/wiki/Europe) in the more interconnected Early Modern era (/wiki/Early_Modern_era) . The justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) with cravat (/wiki/Cravat_(early)) , breeches (/wiki/Breeches) and tricorne hat (/wiki/Tricorne_hat) was established as the first suit (/wiki/Suit) (in an anarchaic sense) by the 1660s-1790s. It was sometimes distinguished by day and evening wear. By the Age of Revolution (/wiki/Age_of_Revolution) in the Late Modern era (/wiki/Late_Modern_era) , it was replaced by the previously-casual country leisure wear-associated front cutaway dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) around the 1790s-1810s. At the same time, breeches were gradually replaced by pantaloons (/wiki/Trousers#Europe_before_the_20th_century) , as were tricorne hats by bicorne hats (/wiki/Bicorne_hat) and ultimately by the top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) by the 19th century and thenceforth. By the 1820s, the dress coat was replaced as formal day wear by the dark, closed-front knee-length frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) . However, the dress coat from the transition period was maintained as formal evening wear in the form of white tie (/wiki/White_tie) , remaining so until this day. By the 1840s, the first cutaway morning coats (/wiki/Morning_coat) of contemporary style emerged, which would eventually replace the frock coat as formal day wear by the 1920s. Likewise, starting from the 1860s, fashion evolved to gradually introduce the more sportive, shorter suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) , likewise originating in country leisure wear. This evolved into the semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) evening wear black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) from the 1880s and the informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) suit (/wiki/Suit) accepted by polite society from the 1920s. Dress codes [ edit ] The dress codes counted as formal wear are the formal dress codes of morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) for daytime and white tie (/wiki/White_tie) for evenings. Although some consider strollers (/wiki/Stroller_(style)) for daytime and black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) for the evening as formal, they are traditionally considered semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal) attires, sartorially speaking below in formality level. [ citation needed ] The clothes dictated by these dress codes for women are ball gowns (/wiki/Ball_gown) . For many uniforms, the official clothing is unisex. Examples of this are court dress (/wiki/Court_dress) , academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress) , and military full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) . Morning dress [ edit ] Main article: Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Morning dress is the daytime formal dress code (/wiki/Dress_code_(Western)) , consisting chiefly for men of a morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) , waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) , and striped trousers (/wiki/Spongebag_trousers) , and an appropriate dress (/wiki/Dress) for women. White tie [ edit ] Main article: White tie (/wiki/White_tie) The required clothing for men, in the evening, is roughly the following: Formal trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , uncuffed, with stripes on leg seams White piqué front or plain stiff-fronted shirt (/wiki/Shirt) with a detachable wing collar, cuff links (/wiki/Cuff_links) and shirt studs (/wiki/Shirt_studs) White piqué (/wiki/Piqu%C3%A9_(weaving)) bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) White piqué vest (/wiki/Vest) ( waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) ) [1] (#cite_note-1) A ( dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) ) evening tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) [2] (#cite_note-2) Black patent leather (/wiki/Patent_leather) court shoes (/wiki/Court_shoes) Accessories Women wear a variety of dresses. See ball gowns (/wiki/Ball_gown) , evening gowns (/wiki/Evening_gown) , and wedding dresses (/wiki/Wedding_dress) . Business attire for women has a developmental history of its own and generally looks different from formal dress for social occasions. Supplementary alternatives [ edit ] Many invitations to white tie (/wiki/White_tie) events, like the last published edition of the British Lord Chamberlain's Guide to Dress at Court , explicitly state that national costume or national dress may be substituted for white tie. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) In general, each of the supplementary alternatives applies equally for both day attire (/wiki/Morning_dress) , and evening attire. Ceremonial dress [ edit ] Diplomatic reception in West Germany (/wiki/West_Germany) (1961); the Danish ambassador wears a red diplomatic uniform (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) , the British ambassador a dark one. Further information: Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) Including court dresses (/wiki/Court_dress) , diplomatic uniforms (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) , and academic dresses (/wiki/Academic_dress) . Full dress uniform [ edit ] Further information: Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Prior to World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) formal style of military dress, often referred to as full dress uniform, was generally restricted to the British (/wiki/British_Armed_Forces) , British Empire (/wiki/British_Empire) and United States armed forces (/wiki/United_States_armed_forces) ; although the French, Imperial German (/wiki/Imperial_German_Navy) , Swedish and other navies had adopted their own versions of mess dress during the late nineteenth century, influenced by the Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) . [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKnötelKnötelSieg1980442–445-5) In the U.S. Army, evening mess uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress#United_States) , in either blue or white, is considered the appropriate military uniform for white-tie occasions. [6] (#cite_note-auto-6) [ citation needed ] The blue mess and white mess uniforms are black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) equivalents, although the Army Service Uniform (/wiki/Army_Service_Uniform) with bow tie are accepted, especially for non-commissioned officers and newly commissioned officers. For white-tie occasions, of which there are almost none in the United States outside the national capital region for U.S. Army, an officer must wear a wing-collar shirt with white tie and white vest. For black tie occasions, officers must wear a turndown collar with black tie and black cummerbund. The only outer coat prescribed for both black- and white-tie events is the army blue cape with branch colour lining. [6] (#cite_note-auto-6) Religious clothing [ edit ] Further information: Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) Certain clergy wear, in place of white tie outfits, a cassock (/wiki/Cassock) with ferraiolone (/wiki/Ferraiolo) , which is a light-weight ankle-length cape intended to be worn indoors. The colour and fabric of the ferraiolone is determined by the rank of the cleric and can be scarlet watered silk, purple silk, black silk or black wool. For outerwear, the black cape (cappa nigra), also known as a choir cape (cappa choralis), is most traditional. It is a long black woolen cloak fastened with a clasp at the neck and often has a hood. Cardinals and bishops may also wear a black plush hat or, less formally, a biretta (/wiki/Biretta) . In practice, the cassock and especially the ferraiolone have become much less common and no particular formal attire has appeared to replace them. The most formal alternative is a clerical waistcoat incorporating a Roman collar (a rabat) worn with a collarless French cuff shirt and a black suit, although this is closer to black-tie than white tie. Historically, clerics in the Church of England (/wiki/Church_of_England) would wear a knee-length cassock called an apron, accompanied by a tailcoat with silk facings but no lapels, for a white tie occasion. In modern times this is rarely seen. However, if worn, the knee-length cassock is now replaced with normal dress trousers. First native Catholic parish priest (/wiki/Catholic_parish_priest) from the Belgian Congo (/wiki/Belgian_Congo) , wearing a Roman cassock (/wiki/Cassock) with the standard 18 buttons ( Gazet van Antwerpen , 2 September 1906) Catholic (/wiki/Catholic) Cardinal (/wiki/Cardinal_(Catholic_Church)) Tarcisio Bertone (/wiki/Tarcisio_Bertone) wearing a tropical white cassock (/wiki/Cassock) trimmed in cardinalatial scarlet (/wiki/Scarlet_(color)) in Santo Domingo (/wiki/Santo_Domingo) , Dominican Republic (/wiki/Dominican_Republic) (2006) Pope Benedict XVI (/wiki/Pope_Benedict_XVI) in white cassock (sometimes though unofficially called a simar (/wiki/Simar) ) with pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) and fringed white fascia (2007) Pope Francis (/wiki/Pope_Francis) , and Patriarch (/wiki/Ecumenical_Patriarch) Bartholomew I (/wiki/Bartholomew_I) in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (/wiki/Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre) , Jerusalem (/wiki/Jerusalem) (2014) Justin Welby (/wiki/Justin_Welby) , Anglican (/wiki/Anglican) Archbishop of Canterbury (/wiki/Archbishop_of_Canterbury) , and Kim Geun-Sang (/wiki/Paul_Kim_(Anglican_bishop)) , Anglican Primate (/wiki/Primate_(bishop)) of the Anglican Church of Korea (/wiki/Anglican_Church_of_Korea) (2013) Chief Rabbi (/wiki/Chief_Rabbi_of_Jerusalem) Shlomo Amar (/wiki/Shlomo_Amar) of Jerusalem (/wiki/Jerusalem) , Israel (/wiki/Israel) (right) with Jewish scholar Joseph J. Sherman (/wiki/Joseph_J._Sherman) (left) (2014) Cultural dress [ edit ] Main article: Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) In Western formal state ceremonies and social functions, diplomats, foreign dignitaries, and guests of honour wear a Western formal dress if not wearing their own national dress. Many cultures have a formal day and evening dress, for example: Av Pak (/wiki/Av_Pak) — both traditional and modern embroidered blouse worn by women in Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) for special occasions and traditional festivals Bandhgala (/wiki/Bandhgala) — also called Jodhpuri suit, worn by men in India (/wiki/India) , is a traditional dress Barong tagalog (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) — worn by men in the Philippines Bisht — worn by men with thawb (/wiki/Thawb) and shmagh or (/wiki/Keffiyeh) ghutrah and agal in formal and religious occasions, e.g. Eid (/wiki/Eid_al-Fitr) , in some Eastern Arab (/wiki/Arab) countries like ( Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Saudi_Arabia) , Iraq (/wiki/Iraq) , Kuwait (/wiki/Kuwait) , UAE (/wiki/UAE) , Qatar (/wiki/Qatar) , Bahrain (/wiki/Bahrain) and others) Batik (/wiki/Batik) shirt — worn by men and women in Indonesia. Besides counting as formal wear, batik shirts are worn well into the informal level. Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) — worn as formal dress by women and men in Norway (/wiki/Norway) Changshan (/wiki/Changshan) — a long male version of the qipao (/wiki/Qipao) , which originated during the Qing dynasty (/wiki/Qing_dynasty) . It can be of cotton for ordinary wear, or of silk for those within aristocratic families. Beneath the changshan , the man generally wears a white mandarin-collar long-sleeved shirt and a pair of dark-colored long pants. Like the qipao , this changshan male gown has slits on both sides (at least knee level) as well. Worn either by Chinese men in the martial arts world or as attire for weddings to match the qipao the bride wears. The qipao and changshan originated as Manchu dresses which government officials, but not ordinary civilians, were required to wear under the Qing dynasty's laws. Gradually, the general Han Chinese civilian population shifted from wearing traditional Chinese hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) clothing to the qipao and changshan . Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) — a modern female variation of the Qing dynasty silk dress, characterized by a high mandarin collar and side slits of varying lengths. It can be sleeveless, short-sleeved, elbow-length or long-sleeved, and has been adopted by most Chinese women as Chinese wear, depending on materials and occasions. Daura-Suruwal (/wiki/Daura-Suruwal) — worn as formal dress by men in Nepal (/wiki/Nepal) Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) — worn by men in West African countries Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) — worn by men in Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) , India (/wiki/India) , Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) , the Maldives (/wiki/Maldives) , and Tamil (/wiki/Sri_Lankan_Tamils) men in Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) Folkdräkt (/w/index.php?title=Folkdr%C3%A4kt&action=edit&redlink=1) [ sv (https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Svenska_folkdr%C3%A4kter) ] — worn as formal dress by women and men in Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) Hátíðarbúningur — worn by men in Iceland (/wiki/Iceland) to formal events such as state dinners (/wiki/State_dinner) and weddings Hanbok (/wiki/Hanbok) — worn by both men and women in Korea (/wiki/Korea) Highland dress (/wiki/Highland_dress) with Scottish kilt (/wiki/Kilt#Scottish_kilt) — worn as formal dress by men in Scotland (/wiki/Scotland) or of Scottish descent Kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) — worn by women in Malaysia and Indonesia Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) , worn as diplomatic uniform and evening dress by officials of the People's Republic of China (/wiki/People%27s_Republic_of_China) Sari (/wiki/Sari) — worn by women in India (/wiki/India) , Nepal (/wiki/Nepal) , Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) , Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) and Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) — worn by both men and women in Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) , India (/wiki/India) and Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) worn by men in India and Pakistan (/wiki/South_Asia) An Icelandic man wears the hátíðarbúningur formal dress on his wedding day along with a boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) . Couple married in a Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) ceremony in Takayama (/wiki/Takayama,_Gifu) , Gifu prefecture King Abdullah (/wiki/Abdullah_of_Saudi_Arabia) in Arab (/wiki/Arab) formal dress Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi (/wiki/Narendra_Modi) in a bandhgala (/wiki/Bandhgala) along with his Japanese counterpart Shinzo Abe (/wiki/Shinzo_Abe) Frock coat [ edit ] Heads of government wearing frock coats (/wiki/Frock_coat) at the formal signing of the Treaty of Versailles (/wiki/Treaty_of_Versailles) in 1919 Further information: Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Although ceased as a protocol-regulated required formal attire at the British royal court (/wiki/British_royal_court) in 1936 at the order of the short-reigning King Edward VIII (/wiki/Edward_VIII) , the frock coat - embodying the background for all contemporary civil formal wear - has not altogether vanished. Yet, it is a rarity mostly confined to infrequent appearances at certain weddings (/wiki/Wedding) . The state funeral (/wiki/State_funeral) of Winston Churchill (/wiki/Winston_Churchill) in 1965 included bearers of frock coats. [7] (#cite_note-7) To this day, King Tupou VI (/wiki/Tupou_VI) of Tonga (/wiki/Tonga) (born 1959) has been a frequent wearer of frock coats at formal occasions. Also more recent fashion has been inspired by frock coats: Prada (/wiki/Prada) 's autumn editions of 2012, [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) 's menswear in the autumn of 2017, [10] (#cite_note-10) and Paul Smith (/wiki/Paul_Smith_(fashion_designer)) 's autumn 2018. [11] (#cite_note-11) Gallery [ edit ] Morning dress [ edit ] Morning dress in 1901 Sir John Goodwin (/wiki/John_Goodwin_(British_Army_officer)) and Lady Goodwin together with Neil Campbell (/wiki/Neil_Campbell_(British_Army_officer)) and his wife, walking over the Grey Street Bridge (/wiki/Grey_Street_Bridge) in morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) , top hats (/wiki/Top_hat) and spats (/wiki/Spats_(footwear)) (1931) Torsten Nothin (/wiki/Torsten_Nothin) , Gunnar Asplund (/wiki/Gunnar_Asplund) , Crown Prince Gustav Adolf (/wiki/Gustaf_VI_Adolf_of_Sweden) , Prince Eugen (/wiki/Prince_Eugen,_Duke_of_N%C3%A4rke) and Yngve Larsson (/wiki/Yngve_Larsson) at the inauguration of Skogskyrkogården (/wiki/Skogskyrkog%C3%A5rden) , Stockholm (/wiki/Stockholm) , Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) (1940) Former U.S. President (/wiki/U.S._President) Harry Truman (/wiki/Harry_Truman) with William Lyon Mackenzie King (/wiki/William_Lyon_Mackenzie_King) (1947) Men in morning dress and women in wedding gowns (/wiki/Wedding_gown) at a wedding (1929) John F. Kennedy (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy) and Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy (/wiki/Jacqueline_Bouvier_Kennedy) , in morning dress and wedding gown (/wiki/Wedding_gown) , outdoors (1953) White tie [ edit ] Caricature of William Lygon, 7th Earl Beauchamp (/wiki/William_Lygon,_7th_Earl_Beauchamp) in Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(UK_magazine)) (1899) Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (/wiki/Mustafa_Kemal_Atat%C3%BCrk) in evening white tie formal wear (1925) Queen Elizabeth II (/wiki/Queen_Elizabeth_II) (in ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) ) and Prince Philip (/wiki/Prince_Philip) ( full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) ) before the formal ( full dress ) opening of the Parliament of Canada (/wiki/Parliament_of_Canada) (1957), surrounded by participators of varying degrees of formal attire ( morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) , white tie (/wiki/White_tie) etc.), presumably in accordance with their functions or time of arrival and departure President of the United States (/wiki/President_of_the_United_States) Gerald Ford (/wiki/Gerald_Ford) , First Lady Betty Ford (/wiki/Betty_Ford) , Japanese Emperor Hirohito (/wiki/Emperor_Hirohito) and Empress Nagako (/wiki/Empress_K%C5%8Djun) (the men in white tie) during a state dinner (1975) King Willem-Alexander (/wiki/King_Willem-Alexander) and Queen Maxima (/wiki/Queen_Maxima) walking to the Nieuwe Kerk (/wiki/Nieuwe_Kerk,_Amsterdam) on his inauguration day (/wiki/Inauguration_day) (30 April 2013) See also [ edit ] Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) Semi-formal wear (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Vintage Evening Waistcoats & Cummerbunds" (https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/vintage-evening-wear/waistcoats-vests-cummerbunds/) . 3 December 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "White Tie Evening Tailcoat & Trousers (Dress Suit)" (https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/white-tie-guide/white-tie-tailcoat-trousers/) . www.gentlemansgazette.com . December 7, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Canadian Heritage (1985). "Dress" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130628161406/http://www.pch.gc.ca/pgm/ceem-cced/prtcl/vest-eng.cfm) . "Diplomatic and Consular Relations and Protocol" External Affairs . Archived from the original (http://www.pch.gc.ca/pgm/ceem-cced/prtcl/vest-eng.cfm) on 2013-06-28 . Retrieved 2008-11-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Nobleprize.org. "The Dress Code at the Nobel Banquet: What to wear?" (https://www.nobelprize.org/ceremonies/dresscode/) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKnötelKnötelSieg1980442–445_5-0) Knötel, Knötel & Sieg (1980) (#CITEREFKnötelKnötelSieg1980) , pp. 442–445. ^ Jump up to: a b "Guide to the Wear and Appearance of Army Uniforms and Insignia" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150421051035/http://www.ncoguide.com/files/da-pam-670_1.pdf) (PDF) . Archived from the original (http://www.ncoguide.com/files/da-pam-670_1.pdf) (PDF) on 2015-04-21 . Retrieved 2019-01-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "THE STATE FUNERAL OF SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL (NEWS IN COLOUR) - COLOUR IS VERY GOOD" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQldUeevrQQ) – via www.youtube.com. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Formal Dresses" (https://jeem.pk/collections/formal-dresses) . Archived from the original (https://jeem.pk) on 2018-12-02 . Retrieved 2018-12-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Prada Autumn/Winter 2012 Menswear" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181202070511/https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2012-menswear/prada/collection) . Archived from the original (https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2012-menswear/prada/collection) on 2018-12-02 . Retrieved 2018-12-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "frock coat | Fashion History Timeline" (https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/frock-coat/) . fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Paul Smith Fall 2018 Menswear Fashion Show" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/paul-smith/slideshow/collection) . Works cited [ edit ] Knötel, Richard; Knötel, Herbert; Sieg, Herbert (1980). Uniforms of the World: A Compendium of Army, Navy, and Air Force Uniforms, 1700–1937 . New York: Scribner. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-684-16304-8 . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . 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(/wiki/Fashion_victim) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Historical clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings Body-length (/wiki/Suit) Abolla (/wiki/Abolla) Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)) Court dress (Empire of Japan) (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_Empire_of_Japan) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) Paenula (/wiki/Paenula) Peplos (/wiki/Peplos) Stola (/wiki/Stola) Toga (/wiki/Toga) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Peascod belly (/wiki/Peascod_belly) Poet shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Sompot Chong 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(/wiki/Caraco) Cardinal cloak (/wiki/Cardinal_cloak) Chamail (/wiki/Chamail_(clothing)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) Kinsale cloak (/wiki/Kinsale_cloak) Dolman (/wiki/Dolman) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Exomis (/wiki/Exomis) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Houppelande (/wiki/Houppelande) Inverness cape (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin) Kandys (/wiki/Kandys) Mackinaw jacket (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Nadiri (/wiki/Nadiri) Norfolk jacket (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) Overfrock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Pañuelo (/wiki/Pa%C3%B1uelo) Palla (/wiki/Palla_(garment)) Pallium (/wiki/Pallium_(Roman_cloak)) Pelisse (/wiki/Pelisse) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Galway shawl (/wiki/Galway_shawl) Kullu (/wiki/Kullu_shawl) Smock-frock (/wiki/Smock-frock) Spencer (/wiki/Spencer_(clothing)) Surcoat (/wiki/Surcoat) Surtout (/wiki/Surtout) Ulster coat (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Visite (/wiki/Visite) Witzchoura (/wiki/Witzchoura) Underwear (/wiki/Undergarment) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle) Chausses (/wiki/Chausses) Chemise (/wiki/Chemise) Codpiece (/wiki/Codpiece) Corselet (/wiki/Corselet) Corset (/wiki/Corset) Waist cincher (/wiki/Waist_cincher) Dickey (/wiki/Dickey_(garment)) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Hoop skirt (/wiki/Hoop_skirt) Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) Pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) Hose (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) Open drawers (/wiki/Open_drawers) Pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) Petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) Peignoir (/wiki/Peignoir) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Union suit (/wiki/Union_suit) Yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Anthony Eden (/wiki/Anthony_Eden_hat) Apex (/wiki/Apex_(headdress)) Arakhchin (/wiki/Arakhchin) Attifet (/wiki/Attifet) Aviator (/wiki/Aviator_hat) Ba tầm (/wiki/Ba_t%E1%BA%A7m) Bergère (/wiki/Berg%C3%A8re_hat) Blessed hat (/wiki/Blessed_sword_and_hat) Bonnet (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)) Capotain (/wiki/Capotain) Caubeen (/wiki/Caubeen) Cavalier (/wiki/Cavalier_hat) Coif (/wiki/Coif) Coonskin (/wiki/Coonskin_cap) Cornette (/wiki/Cornette) Dunce (/wiki/Dunce_cap) Fillet (/wiki/Fillet_(clothing)) French hood (/wiki/French_hood) Fontange (/wiki/Fontange) Futou (/wiki/Futou) Gable hood (/wiki/Gable_hood) Hennin (/wiki/Hennin) Jeongjagwan (/wiki/Jeongjagwan) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_hat) Kausia (/wiki/Kausia) Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) Llawt'u (/wiki/Llawt%27u) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Matron's badge (/wiki/Matron%27s_badge) Miner's (/wiki/Miner%27s_cap) Mob (/wiki/Mobcap) Modius (/wiki/Modius_(headdress)) Monmouth (/wiki/Monmouth_cap) Mooskappe (/wiki/Mooskappe) Motoring hood (/wiki/Motoring_hood) Mounteere (/wiki/Mounteere_Cap) Nemes (/wiki/Nemes) Nightcap (/wiki/Nightcap_(garment)) Ochipok (/wiki/Ochipok) Pahlavi (/wiki/Pahlavi_hat) Petasos (/wiki/Petasos) Phrygian (/wiki/Phrygian_cap) Pileus (/wiki/Pileus_(hat)) Printer's (/wiki/Printer%27s_hat) Pudding (/wiki/Baby_bumper_headguard_cap) Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) Qing (/wiki/Qing_official_headwear) Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Snood (/wiki/Snood_(headgear)) Smoking (/wiki/Smoking_cap) Tainia (/wiki/Tainia_(costume)) Taranga (/wiki/Taranga_(clothing)) Welsh Wig (/wiki/Welsh_Wig) Wimple (/wiki/Wimple) Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) Buskins (/wiki/Buskin) Calcei (/wiki/Calcei) Caligae (/wiki/Caligae) Carbatina (/wiki/Carbatina) Chinese styles (/wiki/Hanfu_footwear) Chopines (/wiki/Chopine) Duckbills (/wiki/Duckbill_shoe) Episcopal sandals (/wiki/Episcopal_sandals) Hessian (/wiki/Hessian_(boot)) Lotus shoes (/wiki/Lotus_shoes) Manchu platform shoes (/wiki/Manchu_platform_shoes) Pampooties (/wiki/Pampootie) Pattens (/wiki/Patten_(shoe)) Pigaches (/wiki/Pigache) Poulaines (/wiki/Poulaine) Socci (/wiki/Socci) Tiger-head shoes (/wiki/Tiger-head_shoes) Turnshoes (/wiki/Turnshoe) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Ascot tie (/wiki/Ascot_tie) Belt hook (/wiki/Belt_hook) Cointoise (/wiki/Cointoise) Cravat (early) (/wiki/Cravat_(early)) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin) Hatpin (/wiki/Hatpin) Jabot (/wiki/Jabot_(neckwear)) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Muff (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) Oes (/wiki/Oes) Partlet (/wiki/Partlet) Perfumed gloves (/wiki/Perfumed_gloves) Ruff (/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)) Shoe buckle (/wiki/Shoe_buckle) Visard (/wiki/Visard) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet 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(/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns (/wiki/Gown) Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) ferraiolo (/wiki/Ferraiolo) Inverness (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) monastic (/wiki/Mantle_(monastic_vesture)) royal (/wiki/Mantle_(royal_garment)) mozzetta (/wiki/Mozzetta) pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Cut-off (/wiki/Cut-off) Gilet (/wiki/Gilet) Jacket (/wiki/Jacket) down (/wiki/Down_jacket) flight (/wiki/Flight_jacket) goggle (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Harrington (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) leather (/wiki/Leather_jacket) mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) safari (/wiki/Safari_jacket) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) Lab coat (/wiki/White_coat) Parka (/wiki/Parka) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Robe (/wiki/Robe) bathrobe (/wiki/Bathrobe) dressing gown (/wiki/Dressing_gown) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Ski suit (/wiki/Ski_suit) Sleeved blanket (/wiki/Sleeved_blanket) Windbreaker (/wiki/Windbreaker) Nightwear (/wiki/Nightwear) Babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) Babygrow (/wiki/Babygrow) Blanket sleeper (/wiki/Blanket_sleeper) Negligee (/wiki/Negligee) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) Nightshirt (/wiki/Nightshirt) Pajamas (/wiki/Pajamas) Swimwear (/wiki/Swimsuit) Bikini (/wiki/Bikini) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Boardshorts 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(/wiki/Fashion) haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) Fur clothing (/wiki/Fur_clothing) types (/wiki/List_of_types_of_fur) Fursuit (/wiki/Fursuit) Global trade of secondhand clothing (/wiki/Global_trade_of_secondhand_clothing) Laws (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) List of individual dresses (/wiki/List_of_individual_dresses) Reconstructed clothing (/wiki/Reconstructed_clothing) Right to clothing (/wiki/Right_to_clothing) Vintage clothing (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Japan (https://id.ndl.go.jp/auth/ndlna/001258802) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐cqkjm Cached time: 20240719050241 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.757 seconds Real time usage: 0.998 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2919/1000000 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Formal_wear&oldid=1235230586 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Formal_wear&oldid=1235230586) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Formal wear (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) Western culture (/wiki/Category:Western_culture) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Articles needing additional references from April 2013 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_April_2013) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from August 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_August_2019) Articles with unsourced statements from December 2016 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_December_2016) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata) Articles with NDL identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_NDL_identifiers) |
Expression of identity through clothing, usually associated with a geographic area This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Folk_costume) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Folk_costume) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article may require copy editing (/wiki/Wikipedia:Basic_copyediting) for inconsistent formatting and grammar of the list sections . You can assist by editing it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Folk_costume) . ( November 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Folk_costume) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Folk costume" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Folk+costume%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Folk+costume%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Folk+costume%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Folk+costume%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Folk+costume%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Folk+costume%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( October 2010 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) From top, left to right: Filipinos (/wiki/Filipinos) ( Igorot (/wiki/Igorot_people) ), Kenyans (/wiki/Kenyans) , Ukrainians (/wiki/Ukrainians) and Peruvians (/wiki/Peruvians) dressed in traditional garments Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A folk costume (also regional costume , national costume , traditional clothing , traditional garment or traditional regalia ) expresses a national identity (/wiki/National_identity) through clothing or costume, which is usually associated with a specific region or period of time in history. It can also indicate social, marital, or religious status. If the costume is used to represent the culture (/wiki/Culture) or identity (/wiki/Cultural_identity) of a specific ethnic group (/wiki/Ethnic_group) , it is usually known as ethnic costume (also ethnic dress, ethnic wear, ethnic clothing, traditional ethnic wear or traditional ethnic garment). Such costumes often come in two forms: one for everyday occasions, the other for traditional festivals (/wiki/Festival) and formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) . The word "costume" in this context is sometimes considered pejorative due to the multiple senses of the word, and in such cases "clothing", "garments" or "regalia" can be substituted without offense. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Following the rise of romantic nationalism (/wiki/Romantic_nationalism) [5] (#cite_note-5) in parts of Europe (/wiki/Europe) , pre-industrial peasantry came to serve as models for all that appeared genuine and desirable. These garments may be made from traditional pre-industrial textiles (/wiki/Narrow_cloth) , in regional styles. In areas where Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) have become typical, traditional garments are often worn during special events or celebrations, particularly those connected to cultural tradition, heritage, or pride. International events may cater to non-Western attendees with a compound dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) such as "business suit or national dress". There are also contemporary societies in which traditional garments are required by sumptuary laws (/wiki/Sumptuary_law) . In Bhutan (/wiki/Bhutan) , for example, the driglam namzha (/wiki/Driglam_Namzha#Clothing) mandates what citizens should wear in public spaces. [6] (#cite_note-vogue-6) Bhutanese citizens must wear the traditional clothing of the Ngalop people (/wiki/Ngalop_people) , including a gho (/wiki/Gho) and kera for men and a kira (/wiki/Kira_(Bhutan)) and wonju (/wiki/Wonju_(Bhutan)) for women, [7] (#cite_note-DailyBhutan-7) in or near "monastic fortresses ( dzong ), monasteries ( gompa ) and temples ( lhakhang ), and in government buildings, including when on official business, in schools and institutions, and at official occasions and assemblies". [8] (#cite_note-Altmann-8) Karin Altmann states that the intent behind this law "was to prevent specific features of Bhutanese culture from disappearing," and "to emphasise national identity", [8] (#cite_note-Altmann-8) but it has contributed to much conflict due to the sheer ethnic and cultural diversity of Bhutan (/wiki/Ethnic_groups_in_Bhutan) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Africa [ edit ] Central Africa [ edit ] Cameroon (/wiki/Cameroon) [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) – pagne (/wiki/Pagne) , kabba , head tie (/wiki/Head_tie) (female), toghu (/wiki/Agbada) , boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , kwa (/wiki/Culture_of_Cameroon#Fashion) , gandura (/wiki/Culture_of_Cameroon#Fashion) (male); dress is highly dependent on region and tribe Central African Republic (/wiki/Central_African_Republic) – Pagne (/wiki/Pagne) , boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) Chad (/wiki/Chad) – Boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , jalabiya (/wiki/Jalabiya) , pagne (/wiki/Pagne) Democratic Republic of the Congo (/wiki/Democratic_Republic_of_the_Congo) – Pagne (/wiki/Pagne) , Liputa (/wiki/Liputa) style of dress, kuba cloth (/wiki/Kuba_textiles) Equatorial Guinea (/wiki/Equatorial_Guinea) – Pano (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) Gabon (/wiki/Gabon) – Pagne (/wiki/Pagne) , boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , Abacost (/wiki/Abacost) suit [12] (#cite_note-12) Republic of the Congo (/wiki/Republic_of_the_Congo) – Pagne (/wiki/Pagne) , boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) São Tomé and Príncipe (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Tom%C3%A9_and_Pr%C3%ADncipe) – Pano (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) , boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) Eastern Africa [ edit ] Burundi (/wiki/Burundi) – Imvutano (/wiki/Mushanana) Comoros (/wiki/Comoros) [13] (#cite_note-13) – Lesso (/wiki/Kanga_(African_garment)) , shiromani , salouva (/wiki/Salouva) , bwibwi (/wiki/Burqa) (female), kandu (/wiki/Kanzu) , kofia (/wiki/Kofia_(hat)) (male) Djibouti (/wiki/Djibouti) – Macawiis (/wiki/Sarong) (male), Koofiyad (/wiki/Kofia_(hat)) (male), Dirac (female), Garbasaar (female); the Afar people (/wiki/Afar_people) have their style of traditional clothing. Eritrea (/wiki/Eritrea) – Kidan Habesha (/wiki/Kidan_Habesha) (male), zuria (/wiki/Zuria) or Habesha kemis (/wiki/Habesha_kemis) (female) Ethiopia (/wiki/Ethiopia) – Ethiopian suit (/wiki/Ethiopian_suit) or Kidan Habesha (/wiki/Kidan_Habesha) (male), Habesha kemis (/wiki/Habesha_kemis) (female); each ethnic group has a traditional style of dress. Kenya (/wiki/Kenya) – There is no national costume, per se, but leso ( kanga (/wiki/Kanga_(African_garment)) ) is worn throughout Kenya; [14] (#cite_note-yoairEAfrica-14) kikoi (/wiki/Kikoi) , similar to kanga fabric, is also widespread. All tribes have their respective traditional garments, though; for example, the Maasai (/wiki/Maasai_people#Clothing) wear their traditional shuka and beadwork [14] (#cite_note-yoairEAfrica-14) Madagascar (/wiki/Madagascar) – Lamba (/wiki/Lamba_(garment)) Mauritius (/wiki/Mauritius) and Réunion (/wiki/R%C3%A9union) – Sega dress Rwanda (/wiki/Rwanda) – Mushanana (/wiki/Mushanana) Seychelles (/wiki/Seychelles) – Kanmtole dress Somalia (/wiki/Somalia) – Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) or Khamiis, Macawiis (/wiki/Sarong) (male), Kitenge (/wiki/Kitenge) , Koofiyad (/wiki/Kofia_(hat)) (male), Dirac (female), Guntiino (/wiki/Culture_of_Somalia#Women) (female), Garbasaar (/wiki/Culture_of_Somalia#Women) (female) Sudan (/wiki/Sudan) – Jalabiyyah (/wiki/Jellabiya) , Taqiyyah (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) , and Turban (/wiki/Turban) (male), Toob, a cotton women's dress (female) Tanzania (/wiki/Tanzania) – kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) and kofia (/wiki/Kofia_(hat)) (male), kanga (/wiki/Kanga_(African_garment)) (female); [14] (#cite_note-yoairEAfrica-14) varies by tribe Uganda (/wiki/Uganda) – Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) and Kofia (/wiki/Kofia_(hat)) (male), Gomesi (/wiki/Gomesi) (female), Mushanana (/wiki/Mushanana) (Female - South Western Uganda) Northern Africa [ edit ] Algeria (/wiki/Algeria) – Burnous (/wiki/Burnous) , ghlila (/wiki/Ghlila) , caftan (/wiki/Kaftan#Algerian_kaftan) , gandoura (/wiki/Gandoura) , haik (/wiki/Haik_(garment)) , jellaba (/wiki/Jellaba) , m'laya (/wiki/M%27laya) , and sarouel (/wiki/Sirwal) Northern Algeria – Karakou (/wiki/Karakou) ( Algiers (/wiki/Algiers) ); labsa Naïlia ( Ouled Naïl (/wiki/Ouled_Na%C3%AFl) ); labsa M'zabia ( Mozabite people (/wiki/Mozabite_people) ) Northeast – Gandoura Annabiya ( Annaba (/wiki/Annaba_Province) ); qashabiya (/wiki/Qashabiya) , melhfa chaouïa ( Chaoui people (/wiki/Chaoui_people) ); labsa Kbaylia ( Kabyle people (/wiki/Kabyle_people) ); binouar Staifi ( Sétif (/wiki/S%C3%A9tif) ) Northwest – Blouza ( Oran (/wiki/Oran_Province) ); chedda of Tlemcen (/wiki/Chedda_of_Tlemcen) Southern Algeria – Tagelmust (/wiki/Tagelmust) , akhebay (/wiki/Tuareg_people#Clothing) ( Tuareg people (/wiki/Tuareg_people) ) Western Algeria – El-melhfa Sahraoui (/wiki/Melhfa) ( Sahrawis (/wiki/Sahrawis) ) Egypt (/wiki/Egypt) – Galabeya (/wiki/Galabeya) Libya (/wiki/Libya) – Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) , farmla (embroidered vest), fouta (/wiki/Fouta_towel) Morocco (/wiki/Morocco) – Djellaba (/wiki/Djellaba) , fez (/wiki/Fez_(hat)) , and balgha (/wiki/Balgha) (male), takchita (/wiki/Takchita) (female) Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (/wiki/Sahrawi_Arab_Democratic_Republic) – Darra'a (/wiki/Grand_boubou) (male), el-melhfa Sahraoui (/wiki/Melhfa) (female) Tunisia (/wiki/Tunisia) – Jebba (/wiki/Caftan) , chechia (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) , fouta (/wiki/Fouta_towel) Southern Africa [ edit ] Angola (/wiki/Angola) – Pano (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) Botswana (/wiki/Botswana) – leteisi and Tshega Lesotho (/wiki/Lesotho) – Shweshwe (/wiki/Shweshwe) clothing and blankets (/wiki/Basotho_blanket) , Mokorotlo (/wiki/Mokorotlo) Malawi (/wiki/Malawi) – Chitenje (/wiki/Kitenge) Mozambique (/wiki/Mozambique) – Capulana (/wiki/Capulana) [15] (#cite_note-yoairSAfrica-15) Namibia (/wiki/Namibia) [15] (#cite_note-yoairSAfrica-15) – Herero (/wiki/Herero_people) traditional clothing, like the ohorokova dress [16] (#cite_note-16) South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) – Sotho (/wiki/Sotho_people) – Shweshwe (/wiki/Shweshwe) , basotho blankets (/wiki/Basotho_blanket) , Mokorotlo (/wiki/Mokorotlo) Xhosa (/wiki/Xhosa_people) [15] (#cite_note-yoairSAfrica-15) – Umbhaco (/wiki/Xhosa_people#Clothing) (men and women); faskoti, inxili (sling bag), ncebetha (/wiki/Xhosa_people#Clothing) , iqhiya (/wiki/Xhosa_people#Clothing) , ibhayi (women); ingqosha, isidanga, unngqa (/wiki/Xhosa_people#Clothing) (men) Zulu (/wiki/Zulu_people) [15] (#cite_note-yoairSAfrica-15) – Isicholo, isidwaba, umutsha, ibheshu Afrikaners (/wiki/Afrikaner) and Rooineks (/wiki/Rooinek) – slouch hat (/wiki/Slouch_hat) , safari shirt (/wiki/Safari_shirt) , veldskoen (/wiki/Veldskoen) , knee-high socks, khaki (/wiki/Khaki) Bermuda shorts (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) or trousers. Zambia (/wiki/Zambia) – Chitenje (/wiki/Kitenge) Zimbabwe (/wiki/Zimbabwe) – ibhetshu, isidwaba, isicholo, Chitenje (/wiki/Kitenge) Western Africa [ edit ] Benin (/wiki/Benin) – Dashiki suit (/wiki/Dashiki) and Aso Oke Hat (/wiki/Aso_Oke_Hat) (male), Buba and wrapper set (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Burkina Faso (/wiki/Burkina_Faso) – Batakari (/wiki/Ghanaian_smock) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Cape Verde (/wiki/Cape_Verde) – Pano (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) de terra Côte d'Ivoire (/wiki/C%C3%B4te_d%27Ivoire) – Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) (male), Kente kaba and slit set (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Gambia (/wiki/Gambia) – Boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Ghana (/wiki/Ghana) – Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) or Ghanaian smock (/wiki/Ghanaian_smock) (called fugu or batakari) [17] (#cite_note-yoairWAfrica-17) and kufi (/wiki/Kufi) (male), Kente kaba and slit set (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female), agbada (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) (male) Guinea (/wiki/Guinea) – Boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Guinea-Bissau (/wiki/Guinea-Bissau) – Ethnic clothes of Guinea-Bissau; for example: Fula (/wiki/Fula_people) : Boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Liberia (/wiki/Liberia) – Dashiki suit (/wiki/Dashiki) and Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) (male), Buba and skirt set (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Mali (/wiki/Mali) – Grand boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) and Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female), bogolan (/wiki/Bogolan) [17] (#cite_note-yoairWAfrica-17) Mauritania (/wiki/Mauritania) – Darra'a (/wiki/Grand_boubou) (male), Melhfa (/wiki/Melhfa) (female) Niger (/wiki/Niger) – Souban cloth (/wiki/Souban_cloth) , Melhfa (/wiki/Melhfa) , Babban riga (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , Tagelmust (/wiki/Tagelmust) , Alasho (/wiki/Alasho) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Nigeria (/wiki/Nigeria) – Agbada (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) or Isiagu (/wiki/Isiagu) and Aso Oke Hat (/wiki/Aso_Oke_Hat) (male), Buba and wrapper set (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female); every ethnic group has their style of traditional dress, worn mostly for special occasions such as weddings and national holidays. Senegal (/wiki/Senegal) – Senegalese kaftan (/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan) and Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) (male), Kaftan (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Togo (/wiki/Togo) – Batakari (/wiki/Batakari) , Agbada (/wiki/Agbada) or Ewe kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) (male), Pagne (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) or kente (/wiki/Kente_cloth) kaba (female) Asia [ edit ] Central Asia [ edit ] Tajikistan (/wiki/Tajikistan) – Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) , tubeteika (/wiki/Tubeteika) , turban (/wiki/Turban) , paranja (/wiki/Paranja) Kazakhstan (/wiki/Kazakhstan) [18] (#cite_note-yoairCAsia-18) – Shapan (/wiki/Chapan) , zhargak, zhegde, kalpak (/wiki/Kalpak) , jargaq shapa (/wiki/Kazakh_clothing#Men's_clothing) (male), saukele, kimeshek, koylek (/wiki/Kazakh_clothing#Women's_clothing) (female), shalbar, kupe (/wiki/Kazakh_clothing#Women's_clothing) (male and female) Kyrgyzstan (/wiki/Kyrgyzstan) [18] (#cite_note-yoairCAsia-18) – Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) , terishym (salwar), kalpak (/wiki/Kalpak) (male), saukele, beldemchi, koylek, elechek (female), koinok (male and female) Turkmenistan (/wiki/Turkmenistan) – Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) Uzbekistan (/wiki/Uzbekistan) – Khalat (/wiki/Khalat) , tubeteika (/wiki/Tubeteika) , chapan (/wiki/Chapan) , turban (/wiki/Turban) , paranja (/wiki/Paranja) East Asia [ edit ] China (/wiki/China) – Han Chinese (/wiki/Han_Chinese) – Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) ( shenyi (/wiki/Shenyi) , ruqun (/wiki/Ruqun) , shanku (/wiki/Shanku) ), also Manchu-inspired clothing (tangzhuang, cheongsam, changshan). Many stereotypes that foreigners have regarding Chinese folk costume (as well as other customs) actually come just from the Han Chinese. Manchus (/wiki/Manchus) – Qizhuang (/wiki/Qizhuang) ( magua (/wiki/Magua_(clothing)) , tangzhuang (/wiki/Tangzhuang) ), cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) , changshan (/wiki/Changshan) Mongols (/wiki/Mongols_in_China) – Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Uyghurs (/wiki/Uyghurs) , Hui (/wiki/Hui_people) and other Chinese Muslims (/wiki/Chinese_Muslims) – Tubeteika (/wiki/Tubeteika) , khalat (/wiki/Khalat) , chapan (/wiki/Chapan) Tibetan (/wiki/Tibetan_people) – Chuba (/wiki/Chuba) Japan (/wiki/Japan) – Wafuku (/wiki/Wafuku) : kimono (/wiki/Kimono) , junihitoe (/wiki/Junihitoe) , sokutai (/wiki/Sokutai) Fukuoka Prefecture (/wiki/Fukuoka_Prefecture) – Mizu happi and shime-komi (/wiki/Fundoshi) Hokkaido (/wiki/Hokkaido) – Ainu (/wiki/Ainu_people) clothing (/wiki/Ainu_culture#Clothing) , such as a tepa (/wiki/Fundoshi) , a sacred belt called raun kut or upsoro kut, a konci (hood), hos (leggings), and grass skin jackets like tetarabe and utarbe; ceremonial garments include a sapanpe (/wiki/Sapanpe) and a matanpushi (/wiki/Matanpushi) Ryukyu (/wiki/Ryukyuan_people) – Ryusou (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E7%90%89%E8%A3%85) Okinawa (/wiki/Okinawa) – Kariyushi shirt (/wiki/Kariyushi_shirt) Korea (/wiki/Korea) – Hanbok (/wiki/Hanbok) ( South Korea (/wiki/South_Korea) ) or chosŏn-ot (/wiki/Chos%C5%8Fn-ot) ( North Korea (/wiki/North_Korea) ) Mongolia (/wiki/Mongolia) – Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) – Han Taiwanese (/wiki/Han_Taiwanese) – Hanfu, cheongsam, changshan Taiwanese indigenous peoples (/wiki/Taiwanese_indigenous_peoples) – traditional garments such as the ibibogo (men's daily jacket) and dalabu (women's daily top) ( Rukai (/wiki/Rukai_people) ), [19] (#cite_note-19) the pearl-adorned shirts and skirts of the Tayal (/wiki/Atayal_people) , [20] (#cite_note-20) and the hundred-pace viper (/wiki/Deinagkistrodon) design of the Bunun (/wiki/Bunun_people) . [21] (#cite_note-21) North Asia [ edit ] Russia (/wiki/Russia) ( Urals (/wiki/Ural_Federal_District) , Siberian Federal District (/wiki/Siberian_Federal_District) , and Far Eastern Siberia (/wiki/Far_Eastern_Federal_District) ) – Clothing of Siberian (/wiki/Siberia) nationalities ( Buryats (/wiki/Buryats) , Yakuts (/wiki/Yakuts) , Altaians (/wiki/Altai_people) , amongst others) Buryatia (/wiki/Buryatia) – Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Tuva (/wiki/Tuva) – Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Altai Republic (/wiki/Altai_Republic) — Southern Altaians (/wiki/Altai_people#Ethnic_groups_and_subgroups) – ton (fur coat), sürü bӧrük (cap), kaptal (overcoat), and the chegedek (Altai-Kizhi) or chedek ( Telengits (/wiki/Telengits) ), a sleeveless cloak historically the daily and ceremonial wear of married women, now worn only as bridal attire or during festive occasions [22] (#cite_note-22) South Asia [ edit ] Afghanistan (/wiki/Afghanistan) [23] (#cite_note-yoairSAsia-23) – Pashtun dress (/wiki/Pashtun_dress) : pakul (/wiki/Afghan_cap) , lungee (/wiki/Lungee) , chapan (/wiki/Chapan) (khalat), shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) (male), and firaq partug (/wiki/Firaq_partug) , burqa (/wiki/Burqa) , chador (/wiki/Chador) , niqab (/wiki/Niqab) (female) Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) [24] (#cite_note-24) – Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) , kurta (/wiki/Kurta) (panjabi), lungi (/wiki/Lungi) , fotua (/wiki/Culture_of_Bengal#Clothing) , gamcha (/wiki/Gamcha) (male), and shari (/wiki/Saree) , long skirt, mexi, [25] (#cite_note-25) selwar kamiz (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) , orna (/wiki/Dupatta) , kurtee (/wiki/Kurta) (female) Bhutan (/wiki/Bhutan) [23] (#cite_note-yoairSAsia-23) – Ngalop people (/wiki/Ngalop_people) : Gho (/wiki/Gho) , kera (/wiki/Gho) , toego (/wiki/Toego) , kabney (/wiki/Kabney) (male) and kira (/wiki/Kira_(dress)) , wonju (/wiki/Wonju_(Bhutan)) , rachus (female) India (/wiki/India) [26] (#cite_note-yoair2SAsia-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) – Achkan (/wiki/Achkan) , sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) , dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) , phiran (/wiki/Phiran) , kurta (/wiki/Kurta) , turban (/wiki/Turban) (male) and shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) , sari (/wiki/Sari) , patiala salwar (/wiki/Patiala_salwar) , lehenga (/wiki/Lehenga) , choli (/wiki/Choli) , pathin (/wiki/Pathin) , mundum neriyatum (/wiki/Mundum_neriyatum) ( Malayali people (/wiki/Malayali_people) of Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) ), dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) (female), churidar (/wiki/Churidar) (men and women); traditional dress of the Monpa people (/wiki/Monpa_people) Maldives (/wiki/Maldives) [23] (#cite_note-yoairSAsia-23) – Dhivehi libaas, feyli, buruga (/wiki/Islamic_veiling_practices_by_country#Malaysia) (women) and Dhivehi mundu (/wiki/Mundu) (men) Nepal (/wiki/Nepal) [23] (#cite_note-yoairSAsia-23) – Daura-Suruwal (/wiki/Daura-Suruwal) and Dhaka topi (/wiki/Dhaka_topi) , (male) and Gunyou Cholo (female); traditional Newar (/wiki/Newar) , Sunuwar (/wiki/Sunuwar) , Rai (/wiki/Rai_(ethnic_group)) , Limbu (/wiki/Limbu_people) (bakku, chuwa) clothing Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) [26] (#cite_note-yoair2SAsia-26) – Peshawari turban (/wiki/Peshawari_turban) , shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) , churidar (/wiki/Churidar) (male), shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) and dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) (female), pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) (men and women) Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) [23] (#cite_note-yoairSAsia-23) – Lama Sariya, Kandyan saree (/wiki/Sari#Sri_Lanka) ( Sinhalese (/wiki/Sinhalese_people) ), Nivi draped saree (female) and jathika anduma, mul anduma, kavaniya (male) Southeast Asia [ edit ] Brunei (/wiki/Brunei) – Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) , Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) (male), Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) , Tudung (/wiki/Tudung) (female) Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) [28] (#cite_note-yoairSEAsia-28) – Sampot (/wiki/Sampot) , Apsara (/wiki/Apsara) , Sabai (/wiki/Sabai) , Krama (/wiki/Krama) , Chang kben (/wiki/Chang_kben) East Timor (/wiki/East_Timor) [28] (#cite_note-yoairSEAsia-28) – Tais (/wiki/Tais) mane, tais feto Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) [28] (#cite_note-yoairSEAsia-28) – There are numerous national (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia#National_attires) and regional (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia#Regional_attires) clothing in Indonesia due to the diversity of cultures that make up the island nation; they include: Batak tribe (/wiki/Batak) – Ulos (/wiki/Ulos) (tenun fabric) Javanese people (/wiki/Javanese_people) – Beskap (https://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beskap) , Batik shirt (/wiki/Batik) , Blangkon (/wiki/Blangkon) , Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) , Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) (male), Kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) , Tudung (/wiki/Tudung) , Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) (female). Malay people (/wiki/Malay_Indonesian) – Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) , Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) , Songket (/wiki/Songket) Papua (/wiki/Papuan_people) – Koteka (/wiki/Koteka) Laos (/wiki/Laos) – xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) , suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) , pha hang (/wiki/Pha_hang) , pha biang (/wiki/Pha_biang) , sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) – Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) and Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) (male), Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) , Baju Kebarung (/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits#Glossary) (Kebaya/Kurung hybrid), Tudung (/wiki/Tudung) (female); every state has its style of baju including a special baju for the Federal Territories. Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar) [28] (#cite_note-yoairSEAsia-28) – Longyi (/wiki/Longyi) , gaung baung (/wiki/Gaung_baung) , taipon (male), thummy, eingyi (female) Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) – Barong (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) (male) and Baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) ; Maria Clara gown (/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown) , Terno (female), Malong (/wiki/Malong) , Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) , Tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Philippine_clothing)) , Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) – Chinese Singaporeans (/wiki/Chinese_Singaporeans) – Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) , Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) (female), Tangzhuang (/wiki/Tangzhuang) (male)， Changpao (/wiki/Changpao) (male) Indian Singaporeans (/wiki/Indian_Singaporeans) – Sari (/wiki/Sari) (Female), Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) (Male), Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Malay Singaporeans (/wiki/Malay_Singaporeans) – Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) (Male), Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) (female), Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Peranakans (/wiki/Peranakans) – Kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) (female), Baju Lokchuan (/wiki/Changpao) (male) Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) – Chut thai (/wiki/Chut_thai) : Thai female: Thai Chakkri (/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume#Formal_chut_thai_for_women) , Thai male: Suea Phraratchathan (/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume#Formal_chut_thai_for_men) , Both genders: Chong kraben (/wiki/Chong_kraben) and Sabai (/wiki/Sabai) Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnam) [28] (#cite_note-yoairSEAsia-28) – Vietnamese clothing (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) : Áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) , Áo trực lĩnh (https://vi.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81o_tr%E1%BB%B1c_l%C4%A9nh) , Áo viên lĩnh, Áo đối khâm, Áo tứ thân (/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BB%A9_th%C3%A2n) , Áo ngũ thân (https://vi.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n) , Áo yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) , Áo nhật bình, Áo gấm (/wiki/%C3%81o_g%E1%BA%A5m) , Áo tấc (https://vi.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BA%A5c) , Áo dài (/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i) , Áo bà ba (/wiki/%C3%81o_b%C3%A0_ba) , Cổn miện (/wiki/Mianfu) West Asia [ edit ] Armenia (/wiki/Armenia) – Armenian dress (/wiki/Armenian_dress) ( taraz ) includes the arkhalig (/wiki/Arkhalig) (long jacket), arakhchin (/wiki/Arakhchin) , burka (/wiki/Burka_(Caucasus)) , chokha (/wiki/Chokha) , kalpak (/wiki/Kalpak) , papakha (/wiki/Papakha) , shalvar (/wiki/Sirwal) Azerbaijan (/wiki/Azerbaijan) – Azerbaijani traditional clothing (/wiki/Azerbaijani_traditional_clothing) include the arkhalig (/wiki/Arkhalig) , chokha (/wiki/Chokha) , kelaghayi (/wiki/Kelaghayi) , kalpak (/wiki/Kalpak) Cyprus (/wiki/Cyprus) – Zimbouni (waistcoat), vraka (men's breeches), and saiya (women's formal festival dress) Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (/wiki/Turkish_Republic_of_Northern_Cyprus) – Cepken (yelek) vest, salta, yazma, potur, boynuz kemer Israel (/wiki/Israel) – A national symbol of Israel is the tembel hat (/wiki/Tembel_hat) ; the sudra (/wiki/Sudra_(headdress)) , gargush (/wiki/Gargush) , the Hasidic (/wiki/Hasidic) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) , the Sephardi (/wiki/Sephardi) kavese [29] (#cite_note-29) (hat); biblical sandals (/wiki/Biblical_sandals) , see also Jewish religious clothing (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Iran (/wiki/Iran) – Chador (/wiki/Chador) , turban (/wiki/Turban) , thawb (/wiki/Thawb) (dishdasha/kameez), zardozi (/wiki/Zardozi) , battoulah (/wiki/Battoulah) ; Kurdish clothing (/wiki/Kurdish_clothing) , including Sanjabi (/wiki/Sanjabi) selte (jacket), chokho-raanak (trousers) Iraq (/wiki/Iraq) – Assyrian clothing (/wiki/Assyrian_clothing) , keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) , Hashimi Dress (/wiki/Hashimi_Dress) , bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) , dishdasha (/wiki/Dishdasha) , Kurdish clothing (/wiki/Kurdish_clothing) , agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Jordan (/wiki/Jordan) – Keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) , bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) , thawb (/wiki/Thawb) , Bedouin (/wiki/Bedouin) clothing Lebanon (/wiki/Lebanon) – Tantour (/wiki/Tantour) , labbade (/wiki/Labbade) , sherwal (/wiki/Sherwal) , keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) , taqiyah (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) Kuwait (/wiki/Kuwait) – Dishdasha (/wiki/Dishdasha) , keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Oman (/wiki/Oman) – Dishdasha (/wiki/Dishdasha) , khanjar (/wiki/Khanjar) , keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Palestine (/wiki/State_of_Palestine) – The keffiyeh (/wiki/Palestinian_keffiyeh) , a symbol of Palestinian identity. The thawb (/wiki/Thawb) , its most popular styles being from Bethlehem (/wiki/Bethlehem) and Ramallah (/wiki/Ramallah) decorated with traditional Palestinian embroidery (/wiki/Palestinian_embroidery) . Qatar (/wiki/Qatar) – Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) , keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Saudi_Arabia) – Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) , ghutrah (/wiki/Keffiyeh) , agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) , bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) , abaya (/wiki/Abaya) , jilbab (/wiki/Jilbab) , niqab (/wiki/Niqab) , Hejazi turban (/wiki/Hejazi_turban) Syria (/wiki/Syria) – Dishdasha (/wiki/Dishdasha) , sirwal (/wiki/Sirwal) , taqiyah (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) , keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Turkey (/wiki/Turkey) – Kalpak (/wiki/Kalpak) , yazma, kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) , turban (/wiki/Turban) , salvar, Çarık (/wiki/%C3%87ar%C4%B1k) , Cepken-Yelek (https://www.matekostum.com.tr/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/TRABZON-CEPKEN.jpg) , Boynuz Kemer – Horn belt United Arab Emirates (/wiki/United_Arab_Emirates) – Kandura (/wiki/Kandura) , thawb (/wiki/Thawb) , abaya (/wiki/Abaya) ; older women would still wear the battoulah (/wiki/Battoulah) visor Yemen (/wiki/Yemen) – Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) , izaar (/wiki/Izaar) , turban (/wiki/Turban) , jambiya (/wiki/Jambiya) , niqab (/wiki/Niqab) Europe [ edit ] Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Eastern Europe [ edit ] Belarus (/wiki/Belarus) – slutsk stash (/wiki/Pas_kontuszowy) , the national type of wimple (/wiki/Wimple) ( namitka ) Georgia (/wiki/Georgia_(country)) – chokha (/wiki/Chokha) (every region has its own specific design of Chokha), Papakha (/wiki/Papakha) Ossetia (/wiki/Ossetia) – Chokha (/wiki/Chokha) Russia (/wiki/Russia) – many types, including bast shoes (/wiki/Bast_shoes) , Boyar hat (/wiki/Boyar_hat) , Ryasna (/wiki/Ryasna) , Sarafan (/wiki/Sarafan) , [30] (#cite_note-30) Kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) , Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) , Kosovorotka (/wiki/Kosovorotka) , Ushanka (/wiki/Ushanka) , Valenki (/wiki/Valenki) ; ( Sami (/wiki/Sami_People) ) Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) , Luhkka (/wiki/Luhkka) for colder weather Caucasus (/wiki/Caucasus) republics (for example, Chechnya (/wiki/Chechnya) , North Ossetia-Alania (/wiki/North_Ossetia-Alania) and Adygea (/wiki/Adygea) ) – Chokha (/wiki/Chokha) , Papakha (/wiki/Papakha) , Ushanka (/wiki/Ushanka) in cold weather Mordovia (/wiki/Mordovia) – Mordovian national costumes (/wiki/Mordovian_national_costume) Ukraine (/wiki/Ukraine) – national costumes of Ukraine (/wiki/Ukrainian_national_clothing) include the Vyshyvanka (/wiki/Vyshyvanka) , Sharovary (/wiki/Sharovary) , Żupan (/wiki/%C5%BBupan) , and Ukrainian wreath (/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath) [31] (#cite_note-31) Central Europe [ edit ] Austria (/wiki/Austria) – Each state has a specific design on national costume; the most famous is that of Tyrol (/wiki/Tyrol_(state)) , consisting of the characteristic Tyrolean tracht (/wiki/Tracht) and dirndls (/wiki/Dirndl) . Czech Republic (/wiki/Czech_Republic) – kroje (/wiki/Kroje) Germany (/wiki/Germany) – Every state has its own specific design of a regional costume ( Tracht (/wiki/Tracht) ). For example, Bavaria (/wiki/Bavaria) 's well-known tracht: Lederhosen (/wiki/Lederhosen) and Dirndl (/wiki/Dirndl) . Many stereotypes that foreigners have regarding German folk costumes (as well as other customs) actually come from the state of Bavaria. Hungary (/wiki/Hungary) – elements of Hungarian folk costumes (/wiki/Culture_of_Hungary#Folk_costumes_(17–19th_century)) include pendely (linen underskirt), gatya (pleated skirt-like pants), elejbőr (sheepskin vest-like item), kacagány (fur pelt), and ködmön (sheepskin coat) [32] (#cite_note-32) Liechtenstein (/wiki/Liechtenstein) – Tracht (/wiki/Tracht) , Dirndl (/wiki/Dirndl) Poland (/wiki/Poland) – czamara (/wiki/Czamara) , żupan (/wiki/%C5%BBupan) , kontusz (/wiki/Kontusz) , rogatywka (/wiki/Rogatywka) ; there are many regional styles, including those of Łowicz (/wiki/%C5%81owiczans) , Kurpie Zielone (/wiki/Kurpie#Traditional_costume) , Biłgoraj (/wiki/Bi%C5%82goraj#Local_folklore) , Lachy Sądeckie (/wiki/S%C4%85cz_Lachs) , Kraków (/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland#Lesser_Poland_/_Małopolska) , Podhale (/wiki/Podhale) , Szamotuły (/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland#Greater_Poland_/_Wielkopolska) , and Kaszuby (/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland#Pomerania_/_Pomorze,_Kujawy,_Warmia) [33] (#cite_note-33) Slovakia (/wiki/Slovakia) – kroje (/wiki/Kroje) Switzerland (/wiki/Switzerland) – Every canton has a specific design of national dress. The most famous Swiss costumes come mainly from the German-speaking cantons of Appenzell (/wiki/Appenzell) , Bern (/wiki/Bern) and Zug (/wiki/Zug) . Northern Europe [ edit ] Denmark (/wiki/Denmark) – Folkedragt (https://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Folkedragt) Faroe Islands (/wiki/Faroe_Islands) – Føroysk klæði (/wiki/F%C3%B8roysk_kl%C3%A6%C3%B0i) Greenland (/wiki/Greenland) – Anorak Estonia (/wiki/Estonia) – Rahvarõivad (https://et.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rahvar%C3%B5ivad) , [34] (#cite_note-34) also known as rahvariided Finland (/wiki/Finland) – Every region has its own specific design of national costume ( kansallispuku , nationaldräkt ). These vary widely. Many of them resemble Swedish costumes, but some take influences from Russian costumes as well. For the Sami (/wiki/Sami_People) in Finland, each place has its own Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) or Luhkka (/wiki/Luhkka) for colder weather [35] (#cite_note-35) Iceland (/wiki/Iceland) – Þjóðbúningurinn (/wiki/%C3%9Ej%C3%B3%C3%B0b%C3%BAningurinn) Ireland (/wiki/Ireland) – Aran sweater (/wiki/Aran_sweater) , Irish walking hat (/wiki/Irish_walking_hat) , flat cap (/wiki/Flat_cap) , Grandfather shirt (/wiki/Grandfather_shirt) , Galway shawl (/wiki/Galway_shawl) , brogue (/wiki/Brogue_shoe) , Irish stepdance (/wiki/Irish_stepdance) costume Latvia (/wiki/Latvia) – Latvian (/wiki/Latvians) national costumes (https://lv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latvie%C5%A1u_tautast%C4%93rpi) ( tautastērpi ) vary by region [36] (#cite_note-36) Lithuania (/wiki/Lithuania) – Aukštaitija (https://lt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auk%C5%A1tai%C4%8Di%C5%B3_r%C5%ABbai) , Žemaitija (https://lt.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%BDemai%C4%8Di%C5%B3_r%C5%ABbai) , Dzūkija (https://lt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dz%C5%ABk%C5%B3_r%C5%ABbai) , Suvalkija (https://lt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suvalkie%C4%8Di%C5%B3_r%C5%ABbai) , and Klaipėdos (https://lt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klaip%C4%97dos_kra%C5%A1to_r%C5%ABbai) ( Mažoji Lietuva (/wiki/Ma%C5%BEoji_Lietuva) ) have related but distinguishable folk dress [37] (#cite_note-37) Norway (/wiki/Norway) – Every county (/wiki/Counties_of_Norway) (including Svalbard (/wiki/Svalbard) , which isn't a county) has a designated style of folk costume, or Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) ; the most famous bunader come from Hardanger (/wiki/Hardanger) and Setesdal (/wiki/Setesdal) ; Sami (/wiki/Sami_People) : Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) , and for colder weather, Luhkka (/wiki/Luhkka) [38] (#cite_note-38) Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) – the traditional folkdräkt (/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#National_costuming) has been specific to the local region and varied from province to province but has since 1983 been supplemented by an official National Costume, Sverigedräkten (/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1) [ sv (https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sverigedr%C3%A4kten) ] , common for all; [39] (#cite_note-seekscandinavia.com-39) first unisex design in 2022: Bäckadräkten (/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten) ; [40] (#cite_note-40) 18th century: Nationella dräkten (/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten) ; Sami (/wiki/Sami_People) : Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) , Luhkka (/wiki/Luhkka) for colder weather [39] (#cite_note-seekscandinavia.com-39) United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) – Every constituent country (/wiki/Countries_of_the_United_Kingdom) has its own national costume. England (/wiki/England) – English country clothing (/wiki/British_country_clothing) , Morris dance (/wiki/Morris_dance) costumes, English clogs (/wiki/English_clog) Northern England (/wiki/Northern_England) – Maud (/wiki/Maud_(plaid)) , Flat cap (/wiki/Flat_cap) Lancashire (/wiki/Lancashire) – Lancashire shawl (/wiki/Shawl) , clogs Northeast – Rapper dance (/wiki/Rapper_sword#Costume) costumes, Northumberland kilts and tartan (/wiki/Border_tartan) Southern England (/wiki/Southern_England) – Smock (/wiki/Smock-frock) Cornwall (/wiki/Cornwall) – Sou'wester (/wiki/Sou%27wester) hat, fisherman's smock (/wiki/Smock-frock) , gansey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) , bal-maiden (/wiki/Bal-maiden) clothing, Cornish kilts and tartans (/wiki/Cornish_kilts_and_tartans) London (/wiki/London) – Pearly kings and queens (/wiki/Pearly_kings_and_queens) Northern Ireland (/wiki/Northern_Ireland) – Similar to the rest of Ireland Scotland (/wiki/Scotland) – Highland dress (/wiki/Highland_dress) : Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) or trews (/wiki/Trews) , tam o'shanter (/wiki/Tam_o%27shanter_(hat)) or Balmoral bonnet (/wiki/Balmoral_bonnet) , doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) , Aboyne dress (/wiki/Aboyne_dress) , and brogues (/wiki/Brogue_shoe) or ghillies (/wiki/Ghillie_brogues) . Scottish Lowlands (/wiki/Scottish_Lowlands) – Maud (/wiki/Maud_(plaid)) , blue bonnet (/wiki/Blue_bonnet_(hat)) Wales (/wiki/Wales) – Traditional Welsh costume (/wiki/Traditional_Welsh_costume) Southern Europe [ edit ] Albania (/wiki/Albania) – Albanian Traditional Clothing (/wiki/Albanian_Traditional_Clothing) , Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) , Tirq (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Tirk) , Xhamadan (/wiki/Xhamadan) , Opinga (/wiki/Opinga) Andorra (/wiki/Andorra) – Barretina (/wiki/Barretina) , espadrilles (/wiki/Espadrilles) Bulgaria (/wiki/Bulgaria) – Every town has its own design of a national costume ( nosia ), with different types of clothing items traditional for each of the ethnographic regions of the country. [41] (#cite_note-41) [42] (#cite_note-42) Croatia (/wiki/Croatia) – Croatian national costume (/wiki/Croatian_national_costume) , Lika cap (/wiki/Lika_cap) , Šibenik cap (/wiki/%C5%A0ibenik_cap) Greece (/wiki/Greece) – Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) , Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) (Vraka), Amalia costume (/wiki/Greek_dress#Modern_period) . Greek fisherman's caps (/wiki/Greek_fisherman%27s_cap) in many coastal villages by the Aegean Sea (/wiki/Aegean_Sea) . Italy (/wiki/Italy) – Italian folk dance (/wiki/Italian_folk_dance) costumes; South Tyrol (/wiki/South_Tyrol) – Tracht (/wiki/Tracht) and Dirndl (/wiki/Dirndl) Sardinia (/wiki/Sardinia) – Every town has its design of the traditional folk costume (see also Sardinian people (/wiki/Sardinian_people#Traditional_clothes) for more information). Sicily (/wiki/Sicily) – Coppola (/wiki/Coppola_(cap)) , Arbereshe (/wiki/Arb%C3%ABresh%C3%AB_people) costumes Kosovo (/wiki/Kosovo) – Traditional clothing of Kosovo (/wiki/Traditional_clothing_of_Kosovo) , Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) , Tirq (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Tirk) , Xhubleta (/wiki/Xhubleta) , Xhamadan (/wiki/Xhamadan) , Opinga (/wiki/Opinga) Malta (/wiki/Malta) – Għonnella (/wiki/G%C4%A7onnella) Montenegro (/wiki/Montenegro) – Montenegrin cap (/wiki/Montenegrin_cap) North Macedonia (/wiki/North_Macedonia) – Macedonian national costume (/wiki/Macedonian_national_costume) Portugal (/wiki/Portugal) – Every region has its own specific design of a national costume. The most famous costumes come from Viana do Castelo (/wiki/Viana_do_Castelo) and Nazaré (/wiki/Nazar%C3%A9,_Portugal) . Romania (/wiki/Romania) – Romanian dress (/wiki/Romanian_dress) Serbia (/wiki/Serbia) – Every region has different design of a national costume. Serbian traditional clothing (/wiki/Serbian_traditional_clothing) , Lika cap (/wiki/Lika_cap) , Montenegrin cap (/wiki/Montenegrin_cap) , Opanci (/wiki/Opanci) , Šajkača (/wiki/%C5%A0ajka%C4%8Da) , Šubara (/wiki/%C5%A0ubara) Slovenia (/wiki/Slovenia) – Gorenjska narodna noša Spain (/wiki/Spain) – Every autonomous region (/wiki/Autonomous_communities_of_Spain) has its own national costume. Andalusia (/wiki/Andalusia) – Sombrero cordobes (/wiki/Sombrero_cordobes) , traje de flamenca (/wiki/Traje_de_flamenca) , traje de luces (/wiki/Traje_de_luces) , montera (/wiki/Montera) Basque Country (/wiki/Basque_Country_(autonomous_community)) – Beret (/wiki/Beret) , espadrilles (/wiki/Espadrilles) Canary Islands (/wiki/Canary_Islands) – Every island has its specific style of traditional dress. Néstor Martín-Fernández de la Torre (/wiki/N%C3%A9stor_Mart%C3%ADn-Fern%C3%A1ndez_de_la_Torre) designed a costume in Gran Canaria in 1934 to serve as pan-islander costume for all islands, but only caught on in Gran Canaria, being specific to its capital city Las Palmas. Catalonia (/wiki/Catalonia) – Barretina (/wiki/Barretina) , Faixa (/wiki/Faixa) Galicia (/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)) – Each province has its regional costume. Western Europe [ edit ] Belgium (/wiki/Belgium) – Bleu sårot (/wiki/Smock-frock) (Wallonia) France (/wiki/France) – Every administrative region has a style of folk costume, varying by department. For example, Brittany (/wiki/Brittany) , with Breton costume (/wiki/Breton_costume) varying by department and predominantly used in Cercles celtiques (/wiki/Celtic_circle) , pardons (/wiki/Pardon_(ceremony)) and festivals. Basque Country (/wiki/French_Basque_Country) – Beret (/wiki/Beret) , espadrille (/wiki/Espadrille) Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) – Many areas, villages, and towns used to have their own traditional style of clothing (https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klederdracht_(Nederland)) . In the 21st century, only a few hundred people still wear traditional dresses and suits on a daily basis. They can be found mainly in Staphorst (/wiki/Staphorst) (about 700 women), Volendam (/wiki/Volendam) (about 50 men) and Marken (/wiki/Marken) (about 40 women). Most well-known parts of Dutch folk costumes outside the Netherlands are probably the Dutch woman's bonnet (/wiki/Dutch_cap) and klompen (/wiki/Klompen) . North Brabant (/wiki/North_Brabant) – poffer (/wiki/Poffer) North America [ edit ] Caribbean [ edit ] Antigua and Barbuda (/wiki/Antigua_and_Barbuda) – plaid dress, with white pinafore for women, designed by Heather Doram (/wiki/Heather_Doram) Bahamas (/wiki/Bahamas) – None, unofficially Androsia (/wiki/Androsia) -cloth clothing. Junkanoo (/wiki/Junkanoo) costumes can be considered folk costume but fall more into the sector of carnival dress than traditional garment. Cuba (/wiki/Cuba) – Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) , panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) (male), guarachera [43] (#cite_note-ABC-CLIO-43) (female) Dominican Republic (/wiki/Dominican_Republic) – Chacabana (/wiki/Guayabera) , panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Dominica (/wiki/Dominica) – Madras (/wiki/Madras_(costume)) Haiti (/wiki/Haiti) – Karabela dress (/wiki/Quadrille_dress) (female), Shirt jacket (/wiki/Guayabera) (male) Jamaica (/wiki/Jamaica) – Bandanna cloth (/wiki/Madras_(cloth)) Quadrille dress (/wiki/Quadrille_dress) (female), Bandanna cloth (/wiki/Madras_(cloth)) shirt and white trousers (/wiki/Trousers) (male), Jamaican Tam (/wiki/Jamaican_Tam) Puerto Rico (/wiki/Puerto_Rico) – Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) , panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) (male), enaguas [43] (#cite_note-ABC-CLIO-43) (female) St. Lucia (/wiki/St._Lucia) – Madras (/wiki/Madras_(costume)) Trinidad and Tobago (/wiki/Trinidad_and_Tobago) – Tobago has an Afro-Tobagonian Creole culture with the Bélé (/wiki/B%C3%A9l%C3%A9) costumes as their typical garment, commonly made of madras (/wiki/Madras_(cloth)) . Trinidad, however, has no defined national garment; the two major ethnic groups in the island wear the following during cultural occasions: Afro-Trinidadians (/wiki/Afro-Trinidadians_and_Tobagonians) – Shirt jacket (/wiki/Guayabera) or Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) (male), Booboo (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Indo-Trinidadian (/wiki/Indo-Trinidadian_and_Tobagonian) – Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) , Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) , Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) (male), Sari (/wiki/Sari) , Choli (/wiki/Choli) , Lehenga (/wiki/Lehenga) (female) Central America [ edit ] Belize (/wiki/Belize) – Mestizos (/wiki/Hispanic_Belizean) – Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) (female), Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) (male); Mayas (/wiki/Maya_peoples) – All tribes wear distinct kinds of Mayan dress. Guatemala (/wiki/Guatemala) – Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) , Corte skirt, Tocado (female), Todosantero (/wiki/Todos_Santos_Cuchumat%C3%A1n) suit (male) Nicaragua (/wiki/Nicaragua) – Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) , Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) (female), Cotona (male) Panama (/wiki/Panama) – Pollera (/wiki/Pollera) (female), Montuno (male) Northern America [ edit ] Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda) – Bermuda shorts (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) Canada (/wiki/Canada) – Each region has its own traditional costume: Lumberjacks (/wiki/Lumberjack) of Quebec (/wiki/Quebec) and Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) – Traditional logging wear includes mackinaw jackets (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) or flannel (/wiki/Flannel) shirts, with headgear being a tuque (/wiki/Tuque) or trapper hat (/wiki/Trapper_hat) ; a good example is seen with folk characters like Big Joe Mufferaw (/wiki/Big_Joe_Mufferaw) . Many stereotypes that foreigners (non-Canadians) have regarding Canadian folk costume (as well as other customs) actually come from Quebec (/wiki/Quebec) and Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) . Maritimes (/wiki/Maritimes) – Acadians (/wiki/Acadians) wear their traditional heritage clothing on special occasions like the Tintamarre (/wiki/Tintamarre) . The Scottish background in Nova Scotia (/wiki/Nova_Scotia) has brought the Nova Scotia tartan (/wiki/Nova_Scotia_tartan) as folk wear in the form of kilts, aboyne dresses and trews for Scottish highland dance (/wiki/Scottish_highland_dance) competitions. Newfoundland (/wiki/Newfoundland_(island)) – Traditional mummers (/wiki/Mummering) dress in masks and baggy clothes in Christmas season celebrations; the Cornish influence has also brought yellow oilskins (/wiki/Oilskin) and sou'westers (/wiki/Sou%27wester) as typical wear in coastal areas. Nunavut (/wiki/Nunavut) and other Inuit (/wiki/Inuit) communities – Parka (/wiki/Parka) , mukluks (/wiki/Mukluk) , amauti (/wiki/Amauti) Prairies (/wiki/Canadian_Prairies) – Cowboy costume (/wiki/Western_wear) is common on events such as the Calgary Stampede (/wiki/Calgary_Stampede) ; often worn with Calgary White Hats (/wiki/Calgary_White_Hat) . Quebec (/wiki/Quebec) and French Canadians (/wiki/French_Canadian) – Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) , Capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) , tuque (/wiki/Tuque) Métis (/wiki/M%C3%A9tis_(Canada)) – Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) , Capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) , Moccasins (/wiki/Moccasin) First Nations (/wiki/First_Nations_in_Canada) – button blanket (/wiki/Button_blanket) , buckskins (/wiki/Buckskins) , moccasins (/wiki/Moccasin) , Chilkat blanket (/wiki/Chilkat_weaving) , Cowichan sweater (/wiki/Cowichan_sweater) , war bonnet (/wiki/War_bonnet) . Many communities prefer the word "Regalia" to denote their folk dress. Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) – Charro outfit (/wiki/Charro_outfit) , Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) , Sarape (/wiki/Sarape) , Sombrero (/wiki/Sombrero) (male), Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) , China Poblana (/wiki/China_Poblana) dress (female); every state has a typical folk dress, for example: Chiapas (/wiki/Chiapas) – Chiapaneca (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traje_de_chiapaneca) El Norte (/wiki/Northern_Mexico) – cowboy hats (/wiki/Cowboy_hat) , cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) , bandanna (/wiki/Bandanna) ; indigenous communities, like the Yaqui (/wiki/Yaqui) , Seri (/wiki/Seri_people) and Rarámuri (/wiki/Rar%C3%A1muri) , conserve traditional apparel. Oaxaca (/wiki/Oaxaca) – Tehuana (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tehuana_(traje)) Querétaro (/wiki/Quer%C3%A9taro) , Hidalgo (/wiki/Hidalgo_(state)) and San Luis Potosí (/wiki/San_Luis_Potos%C3%AD) – Quechquemitl (/wiki/Quechquemitl) Tamaulipas (/wiki/Tamaulipas) – Cuera tamaulipeca (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/cuera_tamaulipeca) Veracruz (/wiki/Veracruz) – Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) Yucatán (/wiki/Yucat%C3%A1n) – Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) (male), Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) (female) United States (/wiki/United_States) – Each region has its own traditional costume. Alaska (/wiki/Alaska) – Kuspuks (/wiki/Kuspuk) , worn with dark pants and mukluks (/wiki/Mukluk) , as well as parkas (/wiki/Parka) are traditional native (/wiki/Alaska_Natives) wear. Hawaii (/wiki/Hawaii) – See the Oceania (#Oceania) section, below American Southwest (/wiki/Southwestern_US) , Texas (/wiki/Texas) and rural areas in the Midwestern (/wiki/Midwestern_US) and Western US (/wiki/Western_US) – Cowboy costume (/wiki/Western_wear) , derived from original Mexican vaquero (/wiki/Vaquero) and American pioneer (/wiki/American_pioneer) garb is traditional dress in Texas (/wiki/Texas) , the Southwestern US (/wiki/Southwestern_US) , and many rural communities, including cowboy hats (/wiki/Cowboy_hat) , Western shirts (/wiki/Western_shirt) , cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) , jeans (/wiki/Jeans) , chaps (/wiki/Chaps) , prairie skirts (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) , and bolo ties (/wiki/Bolo_tie) . Many stereotypes that foreigners (non-Americans) have regarding American folk costume actually come from this region. Utah (/wiki/Utah) – Mormons may dress in 19th-century pioneer clothing for Mormon trek (/wiki/Mormon_Trail) -related activities and events. American Upper Midwest (/wiki/Upper_Midwest) , Pacific Northwest (/wiki/Pacific_Northwest) , the northern portions of the Great Lakes Basin (/wiki/Great_Lakes_Basin) and northern New England (/wiki/New_England) (especially Maine (/wiki/Maine) ) – Due to the cold weather, the garb in rural areas tends to more closely adhere to heavier materials, such as flannel (/wiki/Flannel) shirts or Buffalo plaid (/wiki/Buffalo_plaid) mackinaw jackets (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) , and a knit cap (/wiki/Knit_cap) or, in the case of the Upper Peninsula (/wiki/Upper_Peninsula_of_Michigan) , a Stormy Kromer cap (/wiki/Stormy_Kromer_cap) . A good example is seen in the typical attire of Paul Bunyan (/wiki/Paul_Bunyan) , a folk hero popular in areas where logging was a common occupation, as well as lumberjacks (/wiki/Lumberjack) working in the area. Due to the cold climate very similar to that of neighboring Canada, the style of clothing worn in the region is generally associated more with Canada than with the United States by foreigners (non-Americans). The Amish (/wiki/Amish) (mostly found in Pennsylvania (/wiki/Pennsylvania) , Ohio (/wiki/Ohio) and Indiana (/wiki/Indiana) ) follow a style of plain dress (/wiki/Plain_dress) . Deep South (/wiki/Deep_South) – Traditional Southern US (/wiki/Southern_US) wear includes white seersucker suits (/wiki/Seersucker_suit) and string ties (/wiki/String_tie) for men, and sun hats (/wiki/Sun_hat) and large Southern belle (/wiki/Southern_belle) -style dresses for women. Louisiana (/wiki/Louisiana) – The Cajun (/wiki/Cajun) people of Louisiana (/wiki/Louisiana) traditionally wear the colorful capuchon (/wiki/Capuchon) for Mardi Gras (/wiki/Mardi_Gras) celebrations. Creole (/wiki/Louisiana_Creole_people) women used to historically wear the tignon (/wiki/Tignon) , mostly in plain or madras (/wiki/Madras_fabric) fabrics, but it is now sometimes worn for heritage events or cultural reasons. South Carolina (/wiki/South_Carolina) and Georgia (/wiki/Georgia_(U.S._state)) – Gullah (/wiki/Gullah) communities in the South Carolina Lowcountry (/wiki/South_Carolina_Lowcountry) and Sea Islands (/wiki/Sea_Islands) preserve the traditional African-style clothing and culture. Nantucket (/wiki/Nantucket) – Summer residents of Nantucket (/wiki/Nantucket) will often wear Nantucket Reds (/wiki/Nantucket_Reds) . Various styles of Native American (/wiki/Native_Americans_in_the_United_States) clothing; for example, traditional pow-wow (/wiki/Pow-wow) regalia for Plains Indians (/wiki/Plains_Indians) : Moccasins (/wiki/Moccasin) , buckskins (/wiki/Buckskins) , glass beads, breech clouts (/wiki/Breech_clout) , and war bonnets (/wiki/War_bonnet) or roaches (/wiki/Roach_(headdress)) . Oceania [ edit ] Australia and New Zealand [ edit ] Australia (/wiki/Australia) Aboriginal Australians (/wiki/Aboriginal_Australian) – fibercraft (/wiki/Australian_Aboriginal_fibrecraft) -made clothing, possum cloak (/wiki/Possum_cloak) European Australians (/wiki/European_Australian) – cork hat (/wiki/Cork_hat) , bushwear : Moleskin (/wiki/Moleskin) trousers, bush shirt (/wiki/Safari_shirt) , Akubra (/wiki/Akubra) slouch hat (/wiki/Slouch_hat) , Driza-Bone (/wiki/Driza-Bone) coat, Australian work boots (/wiki/Australian_work_boot) Torres Strait Islands (/wiki/Torres_Strait_Islands) – Augemwalli (/wiki/Mother_Hubbard_dress) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) Māori (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_people) – Piupiu (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_traditional_textiles#Piupiu) , korowai (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_traditional_textiles#Korowai) or kakahu huruhuru (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_traditional_textiles#kakahu_huruhuru) . New Zealand Europeans (/wiki/New_Zealand_European) – Swanndri (/wiki/Swanndri) bush jacket (/wiki/Bush_jacket) , slouch hat (/wiki/Slouch_hat) , walk shorts (/wiki/Walk_shorts) , and knee-high socks; or a black singlet and rugby (/wiki/Rugby_football) shorts. Melanesia [ edit ] Fiji (/wiki/Fiji) – Sulu , chamba ( sulu i ra ), tapa cloth (/wiki/Tapa_cloth) (called masi ), i-sala (/wiki/I-sala) , kuta (specifically in the village of Dama, Bua Province (/wiki/Bua_Province) ), bula; saree (/wiki/Saree) , shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) , and other Indo-Fijian (/wiki/Indo-Fijian) traditional and religious clothing originating in South Asia (/wiki/South_Asia) [44] (#cite_note-44) New Caledonia (/wiki/New_Caledonia) – Manou (/wiki/Lavalava) , robes mission (/wiki/Mother_Hubbard_dress) [45] (#cite_note-45) Papua New Guinea (/wiki/Papua_New_Guinea) – Meri blaus (/wiki/Mother_Hubbard_dress) , lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) , koteka (/wiki/Koteka) , bilum (traditional string bags), [46] (#cite_note-46) [47] (#cite_note-ANU-47) grass covers [47] (#cite_note-ANU-47) Solomon Islands (/wiki/Solomon_Islands) – Tapa cloth (/wiki/Tapa_cloth) , [48] (#cite_note-48) [49] (#cite_note-49) grass skirts (/wiki/Grass_skirt) , kap-kap (/wiki/Culture_of_the_Solomon_Islands) , [50] (#cite_note-50) breastplates (called tema , tambe , or tepatu ), [51] (#cite_note-51) kabilato , aba obi (women), fo’osae (men) [52] (#cite_note-52) Vanuatu (/wiki/Vanuatu) [53] (#cite_note-53) – Aelan dress (/wiki/Mother_Hubbard_dress) , lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) Micronesia [ edit ] Federated States of Micronesia (/wiki/Federated_States_of_Micronesia) – Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) (male), Grass skirt (female) Palau (/wiki/Palau) – Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) (male), Grass skirt (female) Polynesia [ edit ] Cook Islands (/wiki/Cook_Islands) – Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) French Polynesia (/wiki/French_Polynesia) – Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Hawaii (/wiki/Hawaii) – Aloha shirt (/wiki/Aloha_shirt) , Muumuu (/wiki/Muumuu) , Holokū (/wiki/Holok%C5%AB) , Pāʻū (skirt; can be made of kapa cloth (/wiki/Tapa_cloth) or grass (/wiki/Grass_skirt) ; modern variations are textile cloth-based with Hawaiian leaf and flower motifs), Malo ( loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) ) Samoa (/wiki/Samoa) – Lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) , Puletasi (/wiki/Puletasi) , 'ie toga (/wiki/%27ie_toga) clothing Tonga (/wiki/Tonga) – Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) , Ta'ovala (/wiki/Ta%27ovala) , Tapa cloth (/wiki/Tapa_cloth) South America [ edit ] Argentina (/wiki/Argentina) – Gaucho (/wiki/Gaucho) costume; every province has a specific design of poncho (/wiki/Poncho) , with the poncho salteño (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poncho_salte%C3%B1o) being the most recognized. Bolivia (/wiki/Bolivia) – Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) , Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) , Andean pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Brazil (/wiki/Brazil) – Each region has its own traditional costume. Bahia (/wiki/Bahia) – Baiana (https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baiana_(vestu%C3%A1rio)) and Abadá (/wiki/Abad%C3%A1) Samba (/wiki/Samba) costumes for Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) . Brazilian carnival (/wiki/Brazilian_carnival) costumes are used only during the four days of Carnival by Samba schools (/wiki/Samba_school) members. Outside of Carnival, the most traditional men's clothing is that of the malandro carioca (carioca rascal) or sambista , a stereotype of the samba singer, with white pants, a striped shirt, white jacket, and a straw hat. Many stereotypes that foreigners have regarding Brazilian folk costume (as well as other customs) actually come from the state of Rio de Janeiro. Caipiras (/wiki/Caipira) (Brazilian country folk) in Sao Paulo (/wiki/Sao_Paulo) , Goiás (/wiki/Goi%C3%A1s) and other nearby states conserve traditional folk styles of clothing, imitated by participants of festa juninas (/wiki/Festa_junina) . Gaúcho (/wiki/Ga%C3%BAcho) costumes for Rio Grande Do Sul (/wiki/Rio_Grande_Do_Sul) . Pará (/wiki/Par%C3%A1) – typical clothing of Carimbó (/wiki/Carimb%C3%B3) , a popular dance from the northern region of Brazil. Indigenous (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_in_Brazil) clothes for many states within the Amazônia Legal (/wiki/Amaz%C3%B4nia_Legal) area. In this region, there is an extensive indigenous community with different ethnicities, and each of them has their own typical clothes. An example (among several) is the kushma (/wiki/Ash%C3%A1ninka#traditional_dress) used by the Asháninka (/wiki/Ash%C3%A1ninka) . Northeastern sertão (/wiki/Sert%C3%A3o) (desert) – Cangaceiro (/wiki/Cangaceiro) clothing Chile (/wiki/Chile) – Huaso (/wiki/Huaso) costume: Chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) , Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) , Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Colombia (/wiki/Colombia) – Sombrero Vueltiao (/wiki/Sombrero_Vueltiao) , ruana (/wiki/Ruana) , white shirt (/wiki/Shirt) , trousers (/wiki/Trousers) and alpargatas (/wiki/Espadrille) (male), blouse (/wiki/Blouse) , Cumbia pollera (/wiki/Pollera) , Sombrero vueltiao (/wiki/Sombrero_vueltiao) and alpargatas (/wiki/Espadrille) (female); every region has a distinct costume. Ecuador (/wiki/Ecuador) – Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) , Panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Guyana (/wiki/Guyana) – Guyana is unique among South American nations to not have a designated style of national dress. Every ethnic group wears their cultural clothing during important events or occasions: Afro-Guyanese (/wiki/Afro-Guyanese) – Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) or Shirt jacket (/wiki/Guayabera) (male), Booboo (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) (female) Indo-Guyanese (/wiki/Indo-Guyanese) – Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) , Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) , Churidar (/wiki/Churidar) (male), Sari (/wiki/Sari) , Lehenga (/wiki/Lehenga) (female) Every indigenous tribe (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_in_Guyana) wears their tribal clothes during culture events or important occasions. Paraguay (/wiki/Paraguay) – Ao po'i (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ao_po%27i) Peru (/wiki/Peru) – Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) , Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) , Andean pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Suriname (/wiki/Suriname) – Kotomisse (/wiki/Koto_(traditional_clothing)) , Pangi cloth (/wiki/Pangi_cloth) Uruguay (/wiki/Uruguay) – Gaucho (/wiki/Gaucho) costume Venezuela (/wiki/Venezuela) – Llanero (/wiki/Llanero) costume ( Liqui liqui (/wiki/Liqui_liqui) and pelo e' guama hat; men), Joropo (/wiki/Joropo) dress and pelo e' guama hat (women) Gallery [ edit ] Africa [ edit ] Modern illustration of an Ancient Egyptian (/wiki/Ancient_Egyptian) men's tunic (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Egypt) in a style popularized in the New Kingdom (/wiki/New_Kingdom) Egyptian (/wiki/Egyptians) musicians wearing galabiyat (/wiki/Jellabiya) Traditional Tunisian (/wiki/Tunisians) clothing, including safasir (/wiki/Safseri) Traditional gandoura (/wiki/Gandoura) , also called djebba fergani (/wiki/Djebba_fergani) , from Algeria (/wiki/Algeria) Moroccan (/wiki/Moroccans) women wearing takshita (/wiki/Takshita) in 1939 A drummer wearing a dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) in Accra (/wiki/Accra) , Ghana (/wiki/Ghana) A group of Nigerian (/wiki/Nigerians) women wearing pagne (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) A Yoruba (/wiki/Yoruba_people) man in a traditional agbada (/wiki/Agbada) Toghu or tugh, the official traditional regalia of Cameroon (/wiki/Cameroon) Tigrinya (/wiki/Tigrinya_people) women dancing in traditional zurias (/wiki/Zuria) in Eritrea (/wiki/Eritrea) Variety of cultural dress of the Oromo people (/wiki/Oromo_people) in Ethiopia (/wiki/Ethiopia) A kitenge (/wiki/Kitenge) dress from Kenya (/wiki/Kenya) A Maasai (/wiki/Maasai_people) woman in her finest clothes Baganda (/wiki/Baganda) people in their cultural outfits. Men put on Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) , and ladies Ggomeesi in Uganda (/wiki/Uganda) Rwandan (/wiki/Rwanda) dancers wearing imishanana (/wiki/Mushanana) Malawian (/wiki/Malawi) women wearing kitenge (/wiki/Kitenge) fabric Mozambican (/wiki/Mozambique) woman wearing a capulana (/wiki/Capulana) Zulu (/wiki/Zulu_people) traditional attire in South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) Basotho (/wiki/Basotho) women wearing traditional (/wiki/Basotho_blanket) blankets in Lesotho (/wiki/Lesotho) Xhosa (/wiki/Xhosa_people) women wearing Shweshwe (/wiki/Shweshwe) fabric in South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) Kamntole clothes in Seychelles (/wiki/Seychelles) A Sakalava (/wiki/Sakalava) musician in Madagascar (/wiki/Madagascar) wearing a traditional lamba (/wiki/Lamba_(garment)) Asia [ edit ] Examples of ancient Babylonian (/wiki/Babylonia) dress Ancient Assyrian (/wiki/Assyria) clothing Gulf Arabs (/wiki/Gulf_Arabs) wearing traditional 'athwaab (/wiki/Thawb) and culturally-specific headwear (/wiki/Headwear) in Omen (/wiki/Omen) Traditional Yemenite Jewish (/wiki/Yemenite_Jews) gargush (/wiki/Gargush) Yemeni (/wiki/Yemen) women wearing abayat (/wiki/Abaya) Woman from Ramallah (/wiki/Ramallah) wearing traditional Palestinian (/wiki/Palestinian_traditional_costumes) dress, including a taqsireh and smadeh (c. 1929–1946) Armenian (/wiki/Armenians) women wearing arkhaligs (/wiki/Arkhalig) Traditional Azerbaijani (/wiki/Azerbaijanis) dress, including kelaghayi (/wiki/Kelaghayi) An Iranian (/wiki/Iranian_peoples) family celebrating Nowruz (/wiki/Nowruz) in their traditional ethnic attire Afghan (/wiki/Afghans) children wearing traditional clothes in Kabul (/wiki/Kabul) A group of Baloch (/wiki/Baloch_people) men wearing traditional dress, including Balochi shalwar kameez (/wiki/Balochi_clothing) A variety of cultural clothing from across India (/wiki/India) , but common throughout the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) , including lehengas (/wiki/Lehenga) , cholis (/wiki/Choli) , salwar kameez (/wiki/Salwar_kameez) , and dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) A Bangladeshi (/wiki/Bangladeshi) bridal handloom sari (/wiki/Sari) Thai (/wiki/Thailand) traditional dress Two Malay (/wiki/Malays_(ethnic_group)) women wearing Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) Cambodian (/wiki/Cambodia) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Vietnamese (/wiki/Vietnamese_people) traditional áo ngũ thân (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n&action=edit&redlink=1) Hmong (/wiki/Hmong_people) girls in Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnam) wearing traditional dress Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesia) girl wearing traditional Palembangese (/wiki/Palembang) songket (/wiki/Songket) A young Filipina (/wiki/Filipina) wearing a Maria Clara gown (/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown) or traje de mestiza Paiwan (/wiki/Paiwan_people) and Rukai (/wiki/Rukai_people) people in Sandimen (/wiki/Sandimen) , Pingtung County (/wiki/Pingtung_County) , Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) celebrate a harvest festival in traditional dress Amis/Pangcah (/wiki/Amis_people) tribe members (from the Fata'an group) performing a group dance at the 2016 Amis Music Festival (/wiki/Amis_Music_Festival) in Dulan, Taiwan (/wiki/Dulan,_Taiwan) An example of traditional dress in China (/wiki/China) Women wearing ruqun (/wiki/Ruqun) in China (/wiki/China) National costume of Mongolia (/wiki/Mongolia) ( deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) ) Tuvan (/wiki/Tuvans) horse-riders wearing deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) A woman and man wearing traditional Korean (/wiki/Korean_people) hanbok (/wiki/Hanbok) Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_people) traditional kimono (/wiki/Kimono) Europe [ edit ] Statues of a woman and man wearing Ancient Greek (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) himation (/wiki/Himation) An example of Greek (/wiki/Greek_people) folk dress Turkish (/wiki/Culture_of_Turkey) folk dancer in traditional dress Bulgarian (/wiki/Bulgarians) traditional folk costume Romanian (/wiki/Romanians) teens in traditional dress Hungarian (/wiki/Hungarians) women in folk dress A traditional Slovak (/wiki/Slovaks) kroj (/wiki/Kroj) Young women in German (/wiki/Germans) dirndls (/wiki/Dirndl) A man and woman wearing regional Łowicz (/wiki/%C5%81owiczans) -style folk dress in Poland (/wiki/Poland) An example of Russian (/wiki/Russians) festive folk dress, including a rubakha (shirt), poneva (skirt), perednik (apron), and platok (shawl) Girls wearing regional Aukštaičių (https://lt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auk%C5%A1tai%C4%8Di%C5%B3_r%C5%ABbai) -style folk dresses in Kaunas (/wiki/Kaunas) Norwegian (/wiki/Norwegians) woman wearing bunad (/wiki/Bunad) Faroese (/wiki/Faroe_Islands) folk dance (/wiki/Folk_dance) club with some members in national costumes A modern Scottish (/wiki/Scottish_people) kilt (/wiki/Kilt) and sporran (/wiki/Sporran) English (/wiki/English_people) dancers wearing Morris (/wiki/Morris_dance) folk dress Traditional Breton (/wiki/Bretons) headwear (/wiki/Breton_costume) worn by women and girls Man wearing a zamarra (/wiki/Zamarra_(coat)) , a sheepskin coat traditionally worn by Basque (/wiki/Basques) shepherds Andalusian (/wiki/Andalusian_people) women wearing trajes de flamenca (/wiki/Traje_de_flamenca) Example of a traditional Maltese għonnella (/wiki/G%C4%A7onnella) , or faldetta , once ubiquitous in Malta (/wiki/Malta) but no longer worn today A young Italian (/wiki/Italians) woman in traditional Ciociaro (/wiki/Ciociaria) dress (c.1869) North America [ edit ] Two Inuit (/wiki/Inuit) women wearing amautiit (/wiki/Amautiit) (skirted style, akuliq) in Nunavut (/wiki/Nunavut) (1995) Chief Anotklosh ( Taku (/wiki/Taku_people) ) wearing a Chilkat (/wiki/Chilkat_weaving) robe in Juneau, Alaska (/wiki/Juneau,_Alaska) (c. 1913) Alaska Native (/wiki/Alaska_Native) dancer performing in a kuspuk (/wiki/Kuspuk) Cowichan sweater (/wiki/Cowichan_sweater) featuring the Thunderbird design Unidentified Plains Cree (/wiki/Cree#Plains_Cree_(Paskwāwiyiniwak_/_nēhiyawak)) at a powwow (/wiki/Powwow) in Fort Qu'Appelle, Saskatchewan (/wiki/Fort_Qu%27Appelle,_Saskatchewan) A Siksika Blackfoot (/wiki/Siksika_Nation) capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) ; the capote is seen as the traditional coat of the Métis (/wiki/M%C3%A9tis) , some Prairie First Nations and French-Canadian Voyageurs (/wiki/Voyageurs) Winnemem Wintu (/wiki/Winnemem_Wintu) chief Caleen Sisk in traditional dress (2009) A modern-day Cheyenne (/wiki/Cheyenne) dog soldier (/wiki/Dog_soldier) wearing a feathered headdress (/wiki/War_bonnet) during a powwow at the Indian Summer festival in Henry Maier Festival Park (/wiki/Henry_Maier_Festival_Park) , Milwaukee (/wiki/Milwaukee) Texan (/wiki/Texan) folk costume comprising cowboy hats (/wiki/Cowboy_hat) , jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and checked western shirts (/wiki/Western_shirt) (c.1950). Ulster-American folk costume worn in a museum in Northern Ireland (/wiki/Northern_Ireland) ; Ulster Americans primarily lived in the Appalachian (/wiki/Appalachia) region An Amish (/wiki/Amish) family in traditional plain dress (/wiki/Plain_dress) Quezquémetl (/wiki/Quezqu%C3%A9metl) of the Huasteca Potosina (/wiki/Huastec_people) China Poblana (/wiki/China_Poblana) dress, emblematic of Puebla (/wiki/Puebla_(city)) and sometimes considered the national costume of Mexico Dancers wearing traditional tehuana (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tehuana_(traje)) of Oaxaca (/wiki/Oaxaca) Young Mayan (/wiki/Maya_people) women in traditional dress in Antigua, Guatemala (/wiki/Antigua,_Guatemala) Mayan folk clothing in Guatemala (/wiki/Guatemala) An Ixil (/wiki/Ixil_people) huipil (/wiki/Huipil) tunic with a skirt, belt, and shawl (mid to late 20th century) Pipil (/wiki/Pipil_people) women dancing in the traditional Procession of Palms in Panchimalco (/wiki/Panchimalco) , El Salvador (/wiki/El_Salvador) Two women wearing pollera (/wiki/Pollera) in Panama (/wiki/Panama) Emberá (/wiki/Embera-Wounaan) women in a parade in Chitré (/wiki/Chitr%C3%A9) , capital of Herrera Province (/wiki/Herrera_Province) , Panama (/wiki/Panama) Women wearing the quadrille dress (/wiki/Quadrille_dress) , greeting the British royal family (/wiki/British_royal_family) in Jamaica (/wiki/Jamaica) A woman wearing a traditional Guadeloupean (/wiki/Guadeloupe) dress Oceania [ edit ] Noongar (/wiki/Noongar) traditional dancers in Perth, Australia (/wiki/Perth,_Australia) Maori (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_people) man wearing a korowai (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_traditional_textiles#Korowai) and piupiu (/wiki/Piupiu) Piupiu (/wiki/Piupiu) worn at a ceremony at New Zealand Parliament (/wiki/New_Zealand_Parliament) Maori (/wiki/M%C4%81ori_people) poi (/wiki/Poi_(performance_art)) performance in traditional dress Samoan (/wiki/Samoans) women wearing Puletasi (/wiki/Puletasi) A Samoan woman wearing a lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) in Apia (/wiki/Apia) Samoan (/wiki/Samoans) canoe performers in traditional dress Tongan (/wiki/Tongans) college students performing the kailao (/wiki/Kailao) dance (1988) A just-married Tongan (/wiki/Tongans) couple wearing their wedding taʻovala (/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala) Young boys wearing traditional Tongan Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) Hawaiian (/wiki/Hawaiians) musicians wearing traditional dress, including a muumuu (/wiki/Muumuu) Hula kahiko (/wiki/Hula_kahiko) performance at the pa hula in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (/wiki/Hawaii_Volcanoes_National_Park) Tahitian (/wiki/Tahitians) woman in festive regalia (ca 1906) Traditional music, dance, and dress of Rapa Nui (/wiki/Rapa_Nui_people) people ( Easter Island (/wiki/Easter_Island) ) People performing a welcome ceremony in traditional dress on the Ulithi (/wiki/Ulithi) atoll Yapese (/wiki/Yapese_people) men in traditional dress celebrating Yap Day (/wiki/Yap_Day) Traditional dress during a ceremony in Palau (/wiki/Palau) to celebrate a first time mother Kanak (/wiki/Kanak) women wearing Robes mission (/wiki/Mother_Hubbard_dress) Huli Wigman (/wiki/Huli_people) from Papua New Guinea (/wiki/Papua_New_Guinea) in festive regalia Examples of traditional dress in Fiji (/wiki/Fiji) Men wearing traditional nambas (/wiki/Namba_(clothing)) during a N'gol (/wiki/N%27gol) ceremony on Pentecost Island (/wiki/Pentecost_Island) , Vanuatu (/wiki/Vanuatu) (1992) South America [ edit ] Guna (/wiki/Guna_people) women wearing Molas (/wiki/Mola_(art_form)) A Guna woman wearing a Mola A Surinamese (/wiki/Surinamese_people) woman wearing the traditional koto (/wiki/Koto_(traditional_clothing)) (c. 1910) Maroon (/wiki/Maroons) woman wearing a pangi (/wiki/Pangi_(Maroon)) in Suriname (/wiki/Suriname) (ca. 1900–1910) Wayuu (/wiki/Wayuu) women in the Guajira Peninsula (/wiki/Guajira_Peninsula) , which comprises parts of Colombia and Venezuela Guambía people (/wiki/Guamb%C3%ADa_people) relaxing in Colombia A Cumbia (Colombia) (/wiki/Cumbia_(Colombia)) dancer holding a Sombrero vueltiao (/wiki/Sombrero_vueltiao) Shaman of the Cofán people (/wiki/Cof%C3%A1n_people) from the Amazon rainforest (/wiki/Amazon_rainforest) in present-day Ecuador Alicia Cawiya (/wiki/Alicia_Cawiya) , vice-president of the Huaorani (/wiki/Huaorani) Nation of Ecuador, in traditional dress Quechua (/wiki/Quechua_people) women in festive dress on Taquile Island (/wiki/Taquile_Island) on Lake Titicaca (/wiki/Lake_Titicaca) , west of Peru A Peruvian man in traditional dress A Mapuche (/wiki/Mapuche) man in present-day Chile A Chilean huaso (/wiki/Huaso) man wearing a chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) and manta, or chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) (1940) Mapuche (/wiki/Mapuche) women from Tirúa (/wiki/Tir%C3%BAa) (2015) An Indigenous woman in traditional dress near Cochabamba, Bolivia (/wiki/Cochabamba,_Bolivia) Baiana dress from Brazil Women wearing baiana dresses in Salvador, Bahia (/wiki/Salvador,_Bahia) Enawene Nawe (/wiki/Enawene_Nawe) man from Mato Grosso (/wiki/Mato_Grosso) Pataxó (/wiki/Patax%C3%B3) man at the ninth edition of the Indigenous Peoples Games in Brazil Young Terena (/wiki/Terena_people) woman at the closing ceremony of the Indigenous Peoples Games in Brazil Kuikuro (/wiki/Kuikuro) men at the closing ceremony of the ninth edition of the Indigenous Peoples Games in Brazil Félix Díaz (/wiki/F%C3%A9lix_D%C3%ADaz_(cacique)) , a Qom (/wiki/Toba_people) leader, meets with Argentina President, Mauricio Macri (/wiki/Mauricio_Macri) wearing traditional dress Argentinian man wearing Gaucho (/wiki/Gaucho) clothes Notes [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Traditional clothing (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Traditional_clothing) . ^ (#cite_ref-1) See wikt:costume#Usage notes (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/costume#Usage_notes) [ better source needed ] ^ (#cite_ref-2) Reese, Debbie (15 May 2007). "The word "costume" and American Indians" (https://americanindiansinchildrensliterature.blogspot.com/2007/05/word-costume-and-american-indians-when.html) . American Indians in Children's Literature . Retrieved 9 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Arce, Isis (4 February 2019). "Native Regalia is NOT a Costume!" (https://voicesofnativeyouth.com/native-regalia-is-not-a-costume/) . Voices of Native Youth . Retrieved 9 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Higgins, Julissa (7 May 2018). "Opinion: Why It's Time to Stop Using the Word "Garb" (https://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/notes/2018/5/7/opinion-why-its-time-to-stop-using-the-word-garb) " (https://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/notes/2018/5/7/opinion-why-its-time-to-stop-using-the-word-garb) . The Fashion Studies Journal . Retrieved 9 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Martinez, Gimeno; Leerssen, Joep (2022). "Dress, design : Introductory survey essay" (https://ernie.uva.nl/viewer.p/21/56/object/122-160800) . Encyclopedia of Romantic Nationalism in Europe . Amsterdam: Study Platform on Interlocking Nationalisms . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-vogue_6-0) Shah, Shalini (October 31, 2016). "Bhutan's Queen Mother Sangay Choden Wangchuck on weaves in everyday life" (https://www.vogue.in/magazine-story/bhutans-queen-mother-sangay-choden-wangchuck-on-weaves-in-everyday-life/) . Vogue India (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-DailyBhutan_7-0) Lhamo, Passang (April 2, 2019). "Driglam Namzha: Why The Bhutanese Do What They Do" (https://www.dailybhutan.com/article/driglam-namzha-why-the-bhutanese-do-what-they-do) . Daily Bhutan (/w/index.php?title=Daily_Bhutan_(magazine)&action=edit&redlink=1) . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Altmann, Karin (2016). Fabric of Life - Textile Arts in Bhutan: Culture, Tradition and Transformation . Berlin, München, Boston: De Gruyter. pp. 30–32. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1515/9783110428612 (https://doi.org/10.1515%2F9783110428612) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783110428612 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Lhotshampas" (https://minorityrights.org/minorities/lhotshampas/) . Minority Rights . 6 May 2020 . Retrieved 10 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in Central Africa" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-central-africa/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Traditional Tuesday: Cameroon edition" (https://nenefashion.wordpress.com/2015/03/04/traditional-tuesday-cameroon-edition/) . Nene Fashion . 4 March 2015 . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Rabimov, Stephan (July 12, 2017). "Gabon's 'Heritage' On Display At The New York Fashion Week: Men's" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephanrabimov/2017/07/12/gabons-heritage-on-display-at-the-new-york-fashion-week-mens/?sh=2b44c3ef30d8) . Forbes . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Come Discover the Culture of Comoros" (https://adorecomores.com/culture/) . Adore Comores . 7 June 2021 . Retrieved 11 November 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in Eastern Africa" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-eastern-africa/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in Southern Africa" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-southern-africa/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Kanungo, Pallavi (February 23, 2023). "Ohorokova: The African attire born out of protest" (https://htschool.hindustantimes.com/editorsdesk/knowledge-vine/ohorokova-the-african-attire-born-out-of-protest) . HT School . Hindustan Times . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in Western Africa" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-western-africa/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in Central Asia" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-central-asia/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "The Clothing of Taiwan's Indigenous People– Men and Women's Clothes" (https://culture.teldap.tw/culture/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=153) . Digital Taiwan - Culture & Nature . Retrieved 10 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Dress and Dressing Up" (https://tme.ncl.edu.tw/en/old-photographs/faces-of-the-century-part-ii/%E6%9C%8D%E9%A3%BE%E8%88%87%E8%A3%9D%E6%89%AEen) . Taiwan Memory Exhibition . National Central Library . Retrieved 10 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Bunun" (https://www.cip.gov.tw/en/tribe/grid-list/7F4BACB58C965B51D0636733C6861689/info.html?cumid=D0636733C6861689) . Council of Indigenous Peoples . 20 December 2010 . Retrieved 10 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Hejzlarová, Tereza (2019). "Traditions and Innovations in the Clothing of Southern Altaians" (https://www.researchgate.net/publication/337089399) . Annals of the Náprstek Museum . 40 (1): 13–17. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2478/anpm-2019-0002 (https://doi.org/10.2478%2Fanpm-2019-0002) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 208534450 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:208534450) . Retrieved 2 December 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in South Asia" (https://yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-south-asia/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Al Mamun, Abdullah (May 28, 2023). "Traditional Dress of Bangladesh That Reflect Our Culture and Heritage" (https://bangladeshiheritage.com/traditional-dress-of-bangladesh/) . Bangladeshi Heritage . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "What to Wear in Bangladesh" (https://www.whattowearonvacation.com/destinations/asia-far-east/bangladesh/134-what-to-wear-in-bangladesh/) . whattowearonvacation . Retrieved 19 July 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-india-bangladesh-and-pakistan/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Sawe, Benjamin (April 25, 2017). "What Are Examples Of Traditional Indian Clothing?" (https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/what-are-the-traditional-dresses-of-india.html) . WorldAtlas . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Chatterjee, Saheli. "Anthropology in Fashion: Cultural Clothing in Southeast Asia" (https://www.yoair.com/blog/anthropology-in-fashion-cultural-clothing-in-southeast-asia/) . YOAIR Blog . Retrieved 8 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Phelan, Miriam (18 August 2017). "Sephardi Dress" (https://jewishmuseum.org.uk/2017/08/18/sephardi-dress/) . Jewish Museum London . Retrieved 3 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Traditional Dress" (https://tmora.org/online-exhibitions/a-homespun-life-textiles-of-old-russia/introduction-to-traditional-dress/) . The Museum of Russian Art . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) National Center of Folk Culture "Ivan Honchar Museum". "Get the Ukrainian Look: Ukrainian Folk Dress" (https://artsandculture.google.com/story/get-the-ukrainian-look-ukrainian-folk-dress-national-center-of-folk-culture/OgURhGB0NRK4sQ?hl=en) . Google Arts & Culture . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Béni, Alexandra (January 18, 2018). "Get to know the invaluable Hungarian folk costumes" (https://dailynewshungary.com/get-know-invaluable-hungarian-folk-costumes/) . Daily News Hungary . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) The State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw. "Regional Types - Traditional Polish Folk Costumes" (https://artsandculture.google.com/story/regional-types-%E2%80%93-traditional-polish-folk-costumes-the-state-ethnographic-museum-in-warsaw/2gXxTD7-cksaLQ?hl=en) . Google Arts & Culture . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Estonian Folk Costumes" (https://rahvaroivad.ee/en) . rahvaroivad.ee . NGO Estonian National Costume (MTÜ Rahvarõivas) . Retrieved December 23, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "The National Costume Center of Finland" (https://www.craftmuseum.fi/en/craft-museum-finland/activities-and-services/national-costume-center-finland) . craftmuseum.fi . Craft Museum of Finland . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) "Latvian National Costumes" (http://www.senaklets.lv/eng.php) . The National Costume Center SENĀ KLĒTS . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "National Costumes" (http://www.lnkc.lt/go.php/eng/costumes/136912) . Lithuanian National Culture Centre . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Bunad history" (https://bunadogfolkedrakt.no/bunadhistoria) . bunadogfolkedrakt.no . Norsk institutt for bunad og folkedrakt (Norwegian Institute for Bunad and Folk Costume) . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Swedish Traditional Clothing: The Ultimate Guide" (https://seekscandinavia.com/swedish-traditional-clothing/) . seekscandinavia.com . Seek Scandinavia. May 31, 2022 . Retrieved November 3, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Welin, Matilda (January 10, 2023). "The Scandinavian Folk Clothing Right for Now" (https://web.archive.org/web/20230315034917/https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230110-the-scandinavian-folk-clothing-right-for-now) . The Collection . BBC (/wiki/BBC) . Archived from the original (https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230110-the-scandinavian-folk-clothing-right-for-now) on March 15, 2023 . Retrieved February 27, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Носиите – Жеравна 2014" (http://www.nosia.bg/nosiite/) . Nosia.bg. 2013-06-16 . Retrieved 2014-08-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Български народни носии – България в стари снимки и пощенски картички" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190428080130/http://retrobulgaria.com/sbnn/index.html) . Retrobulgaria.com. Archived from the original (http://retrobulgaria.com/sbnn/index.html) on 2019-04-28 . Retrieved 2014-08-27 . ^ Jump up to: a b Condra, Jill, ed. (2013). Encyclopedia of National Dress, Vol. I . Santa Barbara, CA: ABC-CLIO. p. 123. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313376375 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Fijians of Indian Descent – Clothing" (https://thinkpacific.com/fijians-of-indian-descent-clothing/) . Think Pacific . Think Pacific Limited . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Check out our iconic products: Mother Hubbard dresses" (https://www.ardici.nc/en/buy-what-and-where) . Ardici . Ardici: Artisanat de Nouvelle-Calédonie . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) McDonald, Hamish (January 18, 2023). "Papua New Guinea's 'bilums' weave together function, fashion" (https://asia.nikkei.com/Editor-s-Picks/Tea-Leaves/Papua-New-Guinea-s-bilums-weave-together-function-fashion) . Nikkei Asia . Mount Hagen, Papua New Guinea . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Weaving and clothing" (https://archives.anu.edu.au/exhibitions/marie-reay-papua-new-guinea-exploring-cultures-through-objects/weaving-and-clothing) . archives.anu.edu.au . Australian National University . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Tapa: Pacific Style - Solomon Islands tapa" (https://collections.tepapa.govt.nz/topic/1948) . tepapa.govt.nz . Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Traditional Tapa Valued in Tikopia" (https://www.solomontimes.com/news/traditional-tapa-valued-in-tikopia/1441) . Solomon Times . Honiara, Solomon Islands. March 5, 2008 . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Leigh, Carolyn; Perry, Ron. "Solomon Islands jewelry" (https://www.art-pacific.com/artifacts/nuguinea/solomons/jewelry.htm) . Art-Pacific.com . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "Breastplate (Tema, Tambe, or Tepatu)" (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/313708) . metmuseum.org . The Metropolitan Museum of Art . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) Burt, Ben (March 1990). "Kwara'ae Costume Ornaments" (https://www.penn.museum/sites/expedition/kwaraae-costume-ornaments/) . Expedition Magazine . Vol. 32, no. 1 . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) Cummings, Maggie (2013). "Looking Good: The Cultural Politics of the Island Dress for Young Women in Vanuatu" (https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/20074229.pdf) (PDF) . The Contemporary Pacific . 25 (1): 33–65. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1353/cp.2013.0007 (https://doi.org/10.1353%2Fcp.2013.0007) . hdl (/wiki/Hdl_(identifier)) : 10125/32890 (https://hdl.handle.net/10125%2F32890) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 145598013 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:145598013) . Retrieved November 7, 2023 . v t e Folk costumes Africa (/wiki/Clothing_in_Africa) Balgha (/wiki/Balgha) Boubou (/wiki/Agbada) Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) Djellaba (/wiki/Djellaba) Head tie (/wiki/Head_tie) Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) Litham (/wiki/Litham) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Senegalese kaftan (/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan) Tagelmust (/wiki/Tagelmust) Wrapper (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) Asia Central Afghanistan (/wiki/Pashtun_clothing) Pakol (/wiki/Pakol) Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) East China (/wiki/Chinese_clothing) Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) Tangzhuang (/wiki/Tangzhuang) Japan (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) Hachimaki (/wiki/Hachimaki) Kimono (/wiki/Kimono) Obi (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) Korea (/wiki/List_of_Korean_clothing) Cheopji (/wiki/Cheopji) Daenggi (/wiki/Daenggi) Gache (/wiki/Gache) Hanbok (/wiki/Hanbok) Hwagwan (/wiki/Hwagwan) Jokduri (/wiki/Jokduri) Manggeon (/wiki/Wangjin) South Bhutan Gho (/wiki/Gho) Kira (/wiki/Kira_(Bhutan)) Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) Dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) India (/wiki/Clothing_in_India) Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) Nepal (/wiki/Newar_traditional_clothing) Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistani_clothing) Pathin (/wiki/Pathin) Perak (/wiki/Perak_(headdress)) Peshawari pagri (/wiki/Peshawari_turban) Sari (/wiki/Sari) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) Southeast Burma (/wiki/Burmese_clothing) Longyi (/wiki/Longyi) Gaung baung (/wiki/Gaung_baung) Cambodia (/wiki/Khmer_clothing) Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Krama (/wiki/Krama) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Indonesia (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia) Baju bodo (/wiki/Bodo_blouse) Batik (/wiki/Batik) Blangkon (/wiki/Blangkon) Ikat (/wiki/Ikat) Kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) Kemben (/wiki/Kemben) Kupiah (/wiki/Kupiah) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tanjak (/wiki/Tengkolok) Ulos (/wiki/Ulos) Laos (/wiki/Culture_of_Laos#Traditional_clothing) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits) Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tengkolok (/wiki/Tengkolok) Philippines (/wiki/Fashion_and_clothing_in_the_Philippines) Barong tagalog (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) Baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) Buntal hat (/wiki/Buntal_hat) Malong (/wiki/Malong) Maria Clara gown (/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown) Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Thailand (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Banong (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Banong) Chong kraben (/wiki/Chong_kraben) Chut Thai (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Formal Chut Thai (/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume) Pha khao ma (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Pha_khao_ma) Pha nung (/wiki/Pha_nung) Raj pattern (/wiki/Raj_pattern) Sabai (/wiki/Sabai) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Tabengman (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Tabengman) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Áo bà ba (/wiki/%C3%81o_b%C3%A0_ba) Áo dài (/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i) Áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) Áo tứ thân (/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BB%A9_th%C3%A2n) Middle East Abaya (/wiki/Abaya) Agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Assyria (/wiki/Assyrian_clothing) Bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Izaar (/wiki/Izaar) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Kippah (/wiki/Kippah) Sheitel (/wiki/Sheitel) Tallit (/wiki/Tallit) Tallit katan (/wiki/Tallit_katan) Tefillin (/wiki/Tefillin) Tzitzit (/wiki/Tzitzit) Jilbāb (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) Keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Kurdish (/wiki/Kurdish_clothing) Niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Palestine (/wiki/Palestinian_costumes) Pandama (/wiki/Pandama) Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Hejazi (/wiki/Hejazi_turban) Europe Balkan Traditional Albanian clothing (/wiki/Traditional_Albanian_clothing) Brez (/wiki/Brez_(clothing)) Çorape (/wiki/%C3%87orape) Opinga (/wiki/Opinga) Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) Xhamadan (/wiki/Xhamadan) Xhubleta (/wiki/Xhubleta) Aromanian (/w/index.php?title=Aromanian_traditional_clothing&action=edit&redlink=1) Croatia (/wiki/Croatian_national_costume) Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) Greek (/wiki/Greek_dress) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Macedonia (/wiki/Macedonian_national_costume) Romania (/wiki/Romanian_dress) Serbia (/wiki/Serbian_traditional_clothing) Kosovo (/wiki/Traditional_clothing_of_Kosovo) British Isles Britain Country (/wiki/British_country_clothing) Court (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) Windsor uniform (/wiki/Windsor_uniform) Ireland (/wiki/Irish_clothing) Scottish highlands (/wiki/Highland_dress) Aboyne (/wiki/Aboyne_dress) Feather bonnet (/wiki/Feather_bonnet) Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) Sporran (/wiki/Sporran) Wales (/wiki/Traditional_Welsh_costume) Central Dirndl (/wiki/Dirndl) Lederhosen (/wiki/Lederhosen) Poland (/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland) Tracht (/wiki/Tracht) Eastern Armenia (/wiki/Armenian_dress) Azerbaijan (/wiki/Azerbaijani_traditional_clothing) Kelaghayi (/wiki/Kelaghayi) Ukraine (/wiki/Ukrainian_national_clothing) Kobeniak (/wiki/Kobeniak) Kozhukh (/wiki/Kozhukh) Kozhushanka (/wiki/Kozhushanka) Ochipok (/wiki/Ochipok) Sharovary (/wiki/Sharovary) Vyshyvanka (/wiki/Vyshyvanka) Ukrainian wreath (/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath) Russia Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) Kosovorotka (/wiki/Kosovorotka) Lapti (/wiki/Bast_shoe) Orenburg shawl (/wiki/Orenburg_shawl) Sarafan (/wiki/Sarafan) Western Netherlands Poffer (/wiki/Poffer) Kraplap (/wiki/Kraplap) Oorijzer (/wiki/Oorijzer) France Breton costume (/wiki/Breton_costume) Spain Traje de flamenca (/wiki/Traje_de_flamenca) Barretina (/wiki/Barretina) Cachirulo (/wiki/Cachirulo) Cordovan hat (/wiki/Cordovan_hat) Sombrero de catite (/wiki/Sombrero_de_catite) Mantilla (/wiki/Mantilla) Italy Ciocia (/wiki/Ciocia) Coppola cap (/wiki/Coppola_cap) Scandinavian Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) Iceland (/wiki/Icelandic_national_costume) Sweden (/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#Folk_costuming) Nationella dräkten (/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten) Bäckadräkten (/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten) Sverigedräkten (/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1) South America Aguayo (/wiki/Aguayo_(cloth)) Chile Chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) Chilote cap (/wiki/Chilote_cap) Chilote poncho (/wiki/Chilote_poncho) Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) Liqui liqui (/wiki/Liqui_liqui) Lliklla (/wiki/Lliklla) Panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Ruana (/wiki/Ruana) North America Inuit skin clothing (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Tignon (/wiki/Tignon) Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) Western wear (/wiki/Western_wear) Bolo tie (/wiki/Bolo_tie) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) Mexico Huarache (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) Mexican pointy boots (/wiki/Mexican_pointy_boots) Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) Serape (/wiki/Serape) Sombrero (/wiki/Sombrero) Quechquemitl (/wiki/Quechquemitl) Oceania Grass skirt (/wiki/Grass_skirt) Feather cloak (/wiki/Feather_cloak) I-sala (/wiki/I-sala) Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) Lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) Kiekie (/wiki/Kiekie_(clothing)) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Sulu (/wiki/Sulu_(skirt)) Taʻovala (/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala) Tēfui (/wiki/T%C4%93fui) Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) v t e National costume of Europe Sovereign states Albania (/wiki/National_costume_of_Albania) Andorra (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Andorra&action=edit&redlink=1) Armenia (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Armenia&action=edit&redlink=1) Austria (/wiki/National_costume_of_Austria) Azerbaijan (/wiki/National_costume_of_Azerbaijan) Belarus (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Belarus&action=edit&redlink=1) Belgium (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Belgium&action=edit&redlink=1) Bosnia and Herzegovina (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Bosnia_and_Herzegovina&action=edit&redlink=1) Bulgaria (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Bulgaria&action=edit&redlink=1) Croatia (/wiki/National_costume_of_Croatia) Cyprus (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Cyprus&action=edit&redlink=1) Czech Republic (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_the_Czech_Republic&action=edit&redlink=1) Denmark (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Denmark&action=edit&redlink=1) Estonia (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Estonia&action=edit&redlink=1) Finland (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Finland&action=edit&redlink=1) France (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_France&action=edit&redlink=1) Georgia (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Georgia_(country)&action=edit&redlink=1) Germany (/wiki/National_costume_of_Germany) Greece (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Greece&action=edit&redlink=1) Hungary (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Hungary&action=edit&redlink=1) Iceland (/wiki/National_costume_of_Iceland) Ireland (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_the_Republic_of_Ireland&action=edit&redlink=1) Italy (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Italy&action=edit&redlink=1) Kazakhstan (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Kazakhstan&action=edit&redlink=1) Latvia (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Latvia&action=edit&redlink=1) Liechtenstein (/wiki/National_costume_of_Liechtenstein) Lithuania (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Lithuania&action=edit&redlink=1) Luxembourg (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Luxembourg&action=edit&redlink=1) Malta (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Malta&action=edit&redlink=1) Moldova (/wiki/National_costume_of_Moldova) Monaco (/w/index.php?title=National_costume_of_Monaco&action=edit&redlink=1) Montenegro 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Fictional character Mango Saturday Night Live (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) character Chris Kattan as Mango with Horatio Sanz (/wiki/Horatio_Sanz) and Tracy Morgan (/wiki/Tracy_Morgan) First appearance October 18, 1997 ( S23E03 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_(season_23)) ) [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) Last appearance May 18, 2002 ( S27E20 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_(season_27)) ) Created by Chris Kattan (/wiki/Chris_Kattan) Portrayed by Chris Kattan In-universe information Gender Male Title Mango Occupation Exotic dancer Family Guava, father ( Danny DeVito (/wiki/Danny_DeVito) ) Spouse Mrs. Mango ( Molly Shannon (/wiki/Molly_Shannon) ) Nationality Mango Island Mango is a character performed by Chris Kattan (/wiki/Chris_Kattan) on the American (/wiki/United_States) sketch comedy (/wiki/Sketch_comedy) show Saturday Night Live (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) . [2] (#cite_note-closet-2) [3] (#cite_note-paulryan-3) Mango is a male exotic dancer who performed in a strip club. [4] (#cite_note-robinson-4) Kattan drew inspiration for the Mango character from actress Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) in the 1930 film The Blue Angel (/wiki/The_Blue_Angel) . [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [7] (#cite_note-osullivan-7) Actors and guest hosts appearing on the program would become infatuated and drawn to Mango. [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) [4] (#cite_note-robinson-4) These included David Duchovny (/wiki/David_Duchovny) , Ellen DeGeneres (/wiki/Ellen_DeGeneres) , Garth Brooks (/wiki/Garth_Brooks) , and Cuba Gooding Jr. (/wiki/Cuba_Gooding_Jr.) [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) [2] (#cite_note-closet-2) Mango was received favorably in commentary and reflections on the history of Saturday Night Live . [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) [8] (#cite_note-out-8) [3] (#cite_note-paulryan-3) Rocky Mountain News (/wiki/Rocky_Mountain_News) posited the character helped popularize the word mango (/wiki/Mango) itself in American households. [9] (#cite_note-meitus-9) Comedian Jim Downey (/wiki/Jim_Downey_(comedian)) placed Mango among the top 10 most frequent sketches in the history of Saturday Night Live . [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) Michael Musto (/wiki/Michael_Musto) wrote that Mango was "etched into our memories" by Kattan's performances. [8] (#cite_note-out-8) Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) placed the hosting job of Garth Brooks on Saturday Night Live among the top ten best in history, due to "his surprising chemistry with Chris Kattan's Mango". [10] (#cite_note-busisbest-10) The Houston Chronicle (/wiki/Houston_Chronicle) placed Mango's debut with actor Brendan Fraser (/wiki/Brendan_Fraser) among "The 50 greatest 'Saturday Night Live' skits of all time". [11] (#cite_note-houstonalltime-11) The Art of Comedy placed Mango among "some of the greatest characters" from the series. [3] (#cite_note-paulryan-3) Writing and development [ edit ] Chris Kattan based the Mango character on an ex-girlfriend, his Dalmatian (/wiki/Dalmatian_(dog)) , and the song " Missing (/wiki/Missing_(Everything_but_the_Girl_song)) " by the band Everything but the Girl (/wiki/Everything_but_the_Girl) . [12] (#cite_note-reveals-12) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [13] (#cite_note-polygon-13) Chris Kattan based the Mango character from a combination of his Russian ex-girlfriend, his Dalmatian (/wiki/Dalmatian_(dog)) Winnie, the song " Missing (/wiki/Missing_(Everything_but_the_Girl_song)) " by the band Everything but the Girl (/wiki/Everything_but_the_Girl) , and an actual performer he met in a strip club, named Mango. [12] (#cite_note-reveals-12) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) Kattan developed the character initially with writer Scott Wainio, for a sketch with guest host actor Brendan Fraser (/wiki/Brendan_Fraser) . [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [13] (#cite_note-polygon-13) Kattan stated in the book Live From New York , "The character of Mango was actually kind of based on an ex-girlfriend. There was a manipulation to her that was incredibly charming." [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) He explained her comedic appeal, "And the joke was that she was a bad dancer but for some ungodly reason, men just fell for her." [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) Kattan developed the character as an androgynous (/wiki/Androgynous) person. [8] (#cite_note-out-8) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [13] (#cite_note-polygon-13) Kattan said he was inspired by the character Lola Lola portrayed by actress Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) in the 1930 the film, The Blue Angel (/wiki/The_Blue_Angel) . [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [7] (#cite_note-osullivan-7) The character debuted on Saturday Night Live on episode three of season 23 on October 18, 1997. [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) Kattan stated his mother did not appreciate the character, telling him it was "too fruity". [8] (#cite_note-out-8) Kattan recalled being pleased when at a Halloween party in Los Angeles multiple individuals decided to dress up in costume as Mango. [8] (#cite_note-out-8) The television series Biography (/wiki/Biography_(TV_program)) captured the transformation of Kattan into Mango for a special two-hour episode of Saturday Night Live , as part of its documentary production about the history of the program. [14] (#cite_note-14) Regular appearances of the Mango character on Saturday Night Live formally ended with Kattan's 2003 departure from the show. [15] (#cite_note-15) He appeared on 16 Saturday Night Live episodes between 1997 and 2002. [16] (#cite_note-stanton-16) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [17] (#cite_note-avclub-17) Character appearance [ edit ] Mango is presented in Saturday Night Live as a man who works as an exotic dancer and stripper. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) The character is proficient in go-go dancing (/wiki/Go-go_dancing) . [8] (#cite_note-out-8) He acts in public with a feminine style of personal attitude. [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) His attire includes fuchsia garments that are too small for his frame, a pink top, gold shorts, and a sparkling beret cap. [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) [20] (#cite_note-screenrant-20) His wife is portrayed by actress Molly Shannon (/wiki/Molly_Shannon) . [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) He works as an exotic dancer in order to provide food for his children and family. [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) His manner of speech includes a Hispanic type of accent, and he speaks about himself to others in the third person (/wiki/Grammatical_person) . [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) His nationality (/wiki/Nationality) was left ambiguous. [20] (#cite_note-screenrant-20) He describes his appeal to others, stating, "If you start out using Mango, it will only lead to more Mango." [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) Mango's oft-used catchphrase was, "You can't have the Mango." [21] (#cite_note-idaho-21) All those persons who encounter Mango end up becoming in love or infatuated with him, regardless of their gender or sexual orientation. [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) [4] (#cite_note-robinson-4) Some who fell under Mango's spell include a gang leader portrayed by Samuel L. Jackson (/wiki/Samuel_L._Jackson) , as well as actors David Duchovny (/wiki/David_Duchovny) , Ellen DeGeneres (/wiki/Ellen_DeGeneres) , Garth Brooks (/wiki/Garth_Brooks) , and Cuba Gooding Jr. (/wiki/Cuba_Gooding_Jr.) [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) [2] (#cite_note-closet-2) Others who fell for Mango's charms on Saturday Night Live included actor Tom Berenger (/wiki/Tom_Berenger) , actress Bea Arthur (/wiki/Bea_Arthur) , the actors from the show Steel Magnolias (/wiki/Steel_Magnolias) , and physician Deepak Chopra (/wiki/Deepak_Chopra) . [8] (#cite_note-out-8) Mango himself was shown to be attracted to actress and singer Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Lopez and Mango get into conflict when he is shown to be more famous than her. [23] (#cite_note-atlantic-23) They appear together in a film shoot for a music video by Lopez. [23] (#cite_note-atlantic-23) The director proclaims to Mango, "You're gonna be bigger than Jennifer Lopez!" [23] (#cite_note-atlantic-23) Lopez appears offended, and the two engage in a physical altercation. [23] (#cite_note-atlantic-23) Mango had an infatuation with actor Matt Damon (/wiki/Matt_Damon) , and on a subsequent program, Ben Affleck (/wiki/Ben_Affleck) falls in love with Mango and appears as an impostor of Damon in order to attempt to woo Mango as his own conquest. [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) Country music singer Garth Brooks appeared proclaiming his desires for Mango while the character was outfitted in a leopard-print costume. [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) Monica Lewinsky (/wiki/Monica_Lewinsky) was planned to be shown as Mango's spouse on an episode, but the host of Saturday Night Live for that week was actor Cuba Gooding Jr. and he canceled the initiative. [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) Gwyneth Paltrow (/wiki/Gwyneth_Paltrow) portrayed Mango's love interest from high school when she guest hosted the show in 2001. [24] (#cite_note-24) The last sketch with Mango was an appearance with actress Winona Ryder (/wiki/Winona_Ryder) where they were shopping together. [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) Post- Saturday Night Live [ edit ] Alexander Wang (/wiki/Alexander_Wang_(designer)) recruited Chris Kattan to reprise his role of Mango in 2014, in a special appearance for the 2014 T by Alexander Wang fashion campaign. [25] (#cite_note-nytimeswang-25) [26] (#cite_note-style-26) In June 2014, Mango was featured in a preview of Missy Elliott (/wiki/Missy_Elliott) protégée Sharaya J (/wiki/Sharaya_J) 's "Shut It Down" via a T by Alexander Wang (/wiki/Alexander_Wang_(designer)) campaign. [27] (#cite_note-hunger-27) [25] (#cite_note-nytimeswang-25) He also did a video on the designer's YouTube account. [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) Wang had Mango as his invited guest at the 2014 CFDA Fashion Awards. [25] (#cite_note-nytimeswang-25) [26] (#cite_note-style-26) The Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) commented of his appearance at the awards show in-character, "actor Chris Kattan looked like he was auditioning for Cabaret in his louche black shorts as he reprised his SNL character Mango." [30] (#cite_note-latimesawards-30) Wang commented, "I've always loved Mango's character from SNL". [16] (#cite_note-stanton-16) Wang observed, "Sometimes when fashion becomes too stiff, it's great to have someone such as Mango come through and inject a new burst of energy. Having fun and a sense of humor is so important to me that when I'm able to incorporate it into my work, I run with it." [16] (#cite_note-stanton-16) Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) collaborated with Wang, and sold "Alexander Wang's Mango shorts" in its "Live From New York" collection with assistance from costume designer for Saturday Night Live , Tom Broecker. [31] (#cite_note-saks-31) Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) placed "Alexander Wang's Mango shorts" as number 2 on its list of top seven most ridiculous items from Saturday Night Live sold by Saks Fifth Avenue. [31] (#cite_note-saks-31) In the video produced for Wang, Mango appears again portrayed by Kattan, with his personal assistant, Rudy, portrayed by former National Hockey League (/wiki/National_Hockey_League) player Sean Avery (/wiki/Sean_Avery) . [32] (#cite_note-pinson-32) Fashion model Behati Prinsloo (/wiki/Behati_Prinsloo) appears in the Wang video as well, along with reality television celebrity Sonja Morgan (/wiki/Sonja_Morgan) and reporter Derek Blasberg (/wiki/Derek_Blasberg) . [32] (#cite_note-pinson-32) [33] (#cite_note-scoble-33) Mango's story picks up explaining he had been residing with his pet Shih Tzu (/wiki/Shih_Tzu) , Constance, together in a "Fortress of Mango-hood", in the Arctic Circle (/wiki/Arctic_Circle) . [32] (#cite_note-pinson-32) [33] (#cite_note-scoble-33) Mango explains he rejected the romantic advances of both Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) and Brad Pitt (/wiki/Brad_Pitt) . [33] (#cite_note-scoble-33) Mango asserts that the dog is his "sober companion" therapy animal. [34] (#cite_note-34) He is coaxed back to New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) by Alexander Wang, to help with his fashion show, where he receives dancing instruction from choreographer Sharaya J. [33] (#cite_note-scoble-33) Mango is still shown to have attractive charisma to all those he encounters. [32] (#cite_note-pinson-32) Harpers Bazaar (/wiki/Harpers_Bazaar) placed the video Mango for T by Alexander Wang at number nine on its list of "The 17 Best Fashion Short Films of the Year". [35] (#cite_note-35) Subsequently in 2017, when Kattan appeared on Dancing with the Stars (/wiki/Dancing_with_the_Stars) alongside professional dancer Witney Carson (/wiki/Witney_Carson) , their team came to be known as "TeamMangoTango". [36] (#cite_note-mangotango-36) Reception [ edit ] Actor Chris Kattan (/wiki/Chris_Kattan) drew inspiration for the Mango character from actress Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) in the 1930 film The Blue Angel (/wiki/The_Blue_Angel) — The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) called Dietrich the "spiritual godmother" of Mango. [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) [6] (#cite_note-baby-6) [7] (#cite_note-osullivan-7) Writing for Rocky Mountain News (/wiki/Rocky_Mountain_News) , journalist Marty Meitus commented on the popularity of the character, "Contrary to popular belief, Saturday Night Live did not make the name mango a household word. Or maybe it did." [9] (#cite_note-meitus-9) The New York Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) wrote of Kattan's work with the character that he received, "big laughs ... as Mango, the exotic dancer who is infinitely attractive to both men and women. Even Garth Brooks has taken part in a Mango sketch, pledging his love to the ambisexual, leopard-print-wearing maniac." [37] (#cite_note-observer-37) The Star Tribune (/wiki/Star_Tribune) called him a "high energy character" that was "a welcome breath of stinky air" on Saturday Night Live . [38] (#cite_note-tribune-38) Writing for The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) in 2001, Michael O'Sullivan called actress Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) the "spiritual godmother" of the Mango character from her portrayal of Lola Lola from the Josef von Sternberg (/wiki/Josef_von_Sternberg) directed 1930 film The Blue Angel (/wiki/The_Blue_Angel) . [7] (#cite_note-osullivan-7) The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) called Mango the actor's "signature character". [39] (#cite_note-39) In his 2002 book on the history of NBC, author Marc Robinson wrote in his work Brought to You in Living Color , "Chris Kattan's high-strung exotic dancer, Mango, has been the 'fantasy' of many an SNL guest host, male and female." [4] (#cite_note-robinson-4) Reflecting back on the material in Live From New York (2002), comedian and Saturday Night Live , writer Jim Downey (/wiki/Jim_Downey_(comedian)) placed Mango among the top 7-10 frequent recurring sketches from the total history of the television series. [5] (#cite_note-shales-5) The Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) commented on the ambiguous sexual nature of the character, "As Mango, Kattan played a simian-human hybrid of ambiguous sexuality who had the power to seduce straight men. Kattan's Mango moved in a highly ostentatious way – a cross between a gay man and a meerkat." [40] (#cite_note-latimes-40) Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) journalist Michael Musto (/wiki/Michael_Musto) wrote, "Chris Kattan is best known for wacky characters like Mango, the slithering multisexual go-go dancer he etched into our memories on Saturday Night Live ." [8] (#cite_note-out-8) Writing in his 2010 book The Art of Comedy , author Paul Ryan characterized Mango among "Some of the greatest characters from Saturday Night Live ", including The Church Lady (/wiki/The_Church_Lady) by Dana Carvey (/wiki/Dana_Carvey) . [3] (#cite_note-paulryan-3) Writing in the chapter "Everybody Loves the Mango" in the 2013 book Saturday Night Live FAQ , author Stephen Tropiano called Mango a "bizarre character". [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) Tropiano wrote of the actor's performance of the character, "Like Will Ferrell, Kattan is fearless and will go to extremes to get a laugh." [1] (#cite_note-tropiano-1) Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) placed the hosting job of Garth Brooks (/wiki/Garth_Brooks) on Saturday Night Live among the top ten best in history, due to "his surprising chemistry with Chris Kattan's Mango". [10] (#cite_note-busisbest-10) Entertainment Weekly called Mango one of the "beloved characters" created by Kattan, in addition to Mr. Peepers and Doug Butabi. [41] (#cite_note-41) The Houston Chronicle (/wiki/Houston_Chronicle) placed Mango's debut with actor Brendan Fraser (/wiki/Brendan_Fraser) at 26 among "The 50 greatest 'Saturday Night Live' skits of all time". [11] (#cite_note-houstonalltime-11) The Maine Edge (/wiki/The_Maine_Edge) placed Mango among "beloved bits" from the show. [42] (#cite_note-42) Writing for Polygon (/wiki/Polygon_(website)) in 2019, Joe Reid placed the Mango character among "queer canon" from Saturday Night Live . [13] (#cite_note-polygon-13) Reid commented, "The joke, of course, was that Mango was not gay, but just the ephemeral, unknowable Mango. Which, honestly, could play as a kind of post-gender thing today if the show ever wanted to ask Kattan back." [13] (#cite_note-polygon-13) The Associated Press (/wiki/Associated_Press) noted Kattan "was best known for the character Mango" out of all of his acting work on Saturday Night Live . [43] (#cite_note-43) Writing for StyleCaster (/wiki/StyleCaster) , Laurel Pinson called Mango a "cult character" from Saturday Night Live . [32] (#cite_note-pinson-32) Entertainment Weekly observed Kattan gained much of his fame for portraying Mango and Mr. Peepers on Saturday Night Live . [44] (#cite_note-44) Entertainment Tonight (/wiki/Entertainment_Tonight) called Mango one of Kattan's "most iconic characters". [36] (#cite_note-mangotango-36) The Charlotte Observer (/wiki/The_Charlotte_Observer) called Mango one of the "most memorable characters" on Saturday Night Live . [45] (#cite_note-45) Tracy Bringhurst of the Idaho Press-Tribune (/wiki/Idaho_Press-Tribune) wrote in 2020 of the lasting impression made by the character, "His recurring characters, from Mango to Mr. Peepers, have had lasting resonance with fans of the show." [21] (#cite_note-idaho-21) Paolo Alfar wrote in 2020 for Screen Rant (/wiki/Screen_Rant) that the Mango sketches were among the most underrated performances on Saturday Night Live . [20] (#cite_note-screenrant-20) Alfar commented, "Mango is Chris Kattan's best recurring solo character." [20] (#cite_note-screenrant-20) See also [ edit ] Androgyny in fashion (/wiki/Androgyny_in_fashion) List of androgynous people (/wiki/List_of_androgynous_people) More Cowbell (/wiki/More_Cowbell) Pansexuality (/wiki/Pansexuality) Recurring (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches) Saturday Night Live characters and sketches (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches) , and (introduced 1997–98) (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1997%E2%80%9398) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Tropiano, Stephen (2013), "Everybody Loves the Mango", Saturday Night Live FAQ: Everything Left to Know About Television's Longest Running Comedy , Applause Theatre and Cinema Books, pp. 135–137, 166–168, 182–184, 377–379, 391–393, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1557839510 ^ Jump up to: a b c Tropiano, Stephen (2002), The Prime Time Closet: A History of Gays and Lesbians on TV , Applause, pp. 254–256, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1557835574 ^ Jump up to: a b c d Ryan, Paul (2007), The Art of Comedy: Getting Serious About Being Funny , Back Stage Books, p. 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Jackson, Angelique (20 March 2017), " (https://www.etonline.com/tv/213219_dancing_with_the_stars_season_24_best_team_names_predictions_eliminations_and_more) 'Dancing With the Stars' Season 24 Preview" (https://www.etonline.com/tv/213219_dancing_with_the_stars_season_24_best_team_names_predictions_eliminations_and_more) , Entertainment Tonight (/wiki/Entertainment_Tonight) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163255/https://www.etonline.com/tv/213219_dancing_with_the_stars_season_24_best_team_names_predictions_eliminations_and_more) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 30 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-observer_37-0) Rutenberg, Jim; Bogdanovich, Peter (1 November 1999), "Two Saturday Night Live Stars Feud", The New York Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) , p. 16 ^ (#cite_ref-tribune_38-0) Justin, Neal (5 March 2000), "Let's get physical", Star Tribune (/wiki/Star_Tribune) , p. 1F ^ (#cite_ref-39) McKinley, Jesse (18 March 2001), "Saturday Night's Sunday Morning" (https://www.nytimes.com/2001/03/18/style/saturday-night-s-sunday-morning.html) , The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163231/https://www.nytimes.com/2001/03/18/style/saturday-night-s-sunday-morning.html) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 29 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-latimes_40-0) Ng, David (7 August 2009), "Chris Kattan's choreographed eccentricities" (https://latimesblogs.latimes.com/culturemonster/2009/08/chris-kattans-choreographed-eccentricities.html) , Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163251/https://latimesblogs.latimes.com/culturemonster/2009/08/chris-kattans-choreographed-eccentricities.html) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 30 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-41) Browning, Justine (3 May 2019), "Chris Kattan claims he broke his neck during SNL sketch in new memoir" (https://ew.com/tv/2019/05/03/chris-kattan-snl-broken-neck-memoir/) , Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163252/https://ew.com/tv/2019/05/03/chris-kattan-snl-broken-neck-memoir/) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 29 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-42) Dow, Mike (29 May 2019), "SNL's Chris Kattan on his memoir 'Baby Don't Hurt Me' (https://www.themaineedge.com/buzz/snls-chris-kattan-on-his-memoir-baby-dont-hurt-me) " (https://www.themaineedge.com/buzz/snls-chris-kattan-on-his-memoir-baby-dont-hurt-me) , The Maine Edge (/wiki/The_Maine_Edge) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163249/https://www.themaineedge.com/buzz/snls-chris-kattan-on-his-memoir-baby-dont-hurt-me) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 30 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-43) " (https://ew.com/article/2014/02/10/chris-kattan-dui/) 'SNL' alum Chris Kattan arrested on suspicion of DUI" (https://ew.com/article/2014/02/10/chris-kattan-dui/) , Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) , 10 February 2014, archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163257/https://ew.com/article/2014/02/10/chris-kattan-dui/) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 29 October 2020 {{ citation (/wiki/Template:Citation) }} : Unknown parameter |agency= ignored ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#parameter_ignored) ) ^ (#cite_ref-44) Fremont, Maggie (20 March 2017), "Dancing With the Stars premiere recap: The First Dance" (https://ew.com/recap/dancing-with-the-stars-season-24-premiere/) , Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163240/https://ew.com/recap/dancing-with-the-stars-season-24-premiere/) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 29 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-45) Devores, Courtney (12 December 2019), "Following a revealing memoir, comedian Chris Kattan dishes on his 'SNL' days on stage" (https://www.charlotteobserver.com/entertainment/music-news-reviews/article238328203.html) , The Charlotte Observer (/wiki/The_Charlotte_Observer) , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117163306/https://www.charlotteobserver.com/entertainment/music-news-reviews/article238328203.html) from the original on 17 November 2020 , retrieved 29 October 2020 Further reading [ edit ] Kattan, Chris (/wiki/Chris_Kattan) (2019), "You Can't Have-a Da Mango", Baby, Don't Hurt Me: Stories and Scars from Saturday Night Live Hardcover , BenBella Books, pp. 1–6, 176–187, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1944648497 Shales, Tom (/wiki/Tom_Shales) ; Miller, James Andrew (2002), Live From New York: An Uncensored History Of Saturday Night Live , Little, Brown and Company (/wiki/Little,_Brown_and_Company) , pp. 429–431, 446–448, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0316781466 Tropiano, Stephen (2013), "Everybody Loves the Mango", Saturday Night Live FAQ: Everything Left to Know About Television's Longest Running Comedy , Applause Theatre and Cinema Books, pp. 135–137, 166–168, 182–184, 377–379, 391–393, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1557839510 External links [ edit ] "Mango Sketches" (https://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/cast/chris-kattan-14686/character/mango-16756) , NBC.com T By Alexander Wang 2014 Ft. Chris Kattan as Mango , 3 June 2014 "Mango and J.Lo Get into a Diva Battle - SNL" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZrTOJZN4RU) , Saturday Night Live , 2001, archived (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/wZrTOJZN4RU) from the original on 2021-12-21 v t e Saturday Night Live (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) Seasons 1 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_1) 2 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_2) 3 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_3) 4 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_4) 5 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_5) 6 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_6) 7 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_7) 8 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_8) 9 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_9) 10 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_10) 11 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_11) 12 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_12) 13 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_13) 14 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_14) 15 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_15) 16 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_16) 17 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_17) 18 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_18) 19 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_19) 20 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_20) 21 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_21) 22 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_22) 23 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_23) 24 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_24) 25 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_25) 26 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_26) 27 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_27) 28 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_28) 29 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_29) 30 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_30) 31 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_31) 32 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_32) 33 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_33) 34 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_34) 35 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_35) 36 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_36) 37 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_37) 38 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_38) 39 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_39) 40 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_40) 41 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_41) 42 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_42) 43 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_43) 44 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_44) 45 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_45) At Home (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_at_Home) 46 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_46) 47 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_47) 48 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_48) 49 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_49) 50 (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_season_50) Episodes (/wiki/Lists_of_Saturday_Night_Live_episodes) Seasons 1−30 (/wiki/List_of_Saturday_Night_Live_episodes_(seasons_1%E2%80%9330)) Season 31−present (/wiki/List_of_Saturday_Night_Live_episodes_(season_31%E2%80%93present)) History 1975–1980 (/wiki/History_of_Saturday_Night_Live_(1975%E2%80%931980)) 1980–1985 (/wiki/History_of_Saturday_Night_Live_(1980%E2%80%931985)) 1985–1990 (/wiki/History_of_Saturday_Night_Live_(1985%E2%80%931990)) 1990–1995 (/wiki/History_of_Saturday_Night_Live_(1990%E2%80%931995)) 1995–2000 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(/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1975%E2%80%9376) 2 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1976%E2%80%9377) 3 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1977%E2%80%9378) 4 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1978%E2%80%9379) 5 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1979%E2%80%9380) 6 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1980%E2%80%9381) 7 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1981%E2%80%9382) 8 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1982%E2%80%9383) 9 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1983%E2%80%9384) 10 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1984%E2%80%9385) 11 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1985%E2%80%9386) 12 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1986%E2%80%9387) 13 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1987%E2%80%9388) 14 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1988%E2%80%9389) 15 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1989%E2%80%9390) 16 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1990%E2%80%9391) 17 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1991%E2%80%9392) 18 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1992%E2%80%9393) 19 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1993%E2%80%9394) 20 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1994%E2%80%9395) 21 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1995%E2%80%9396) 22 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1996%E2%80%9397) 23 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1997%E2%80%9398) 24 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1998%E2%80%9399) 25 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_1999%E2%80%932000) 26 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2000%E2%80%9301) 27 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2001%E2%80%9302) 28 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2002%E2%80%9303) 29 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2003%E2%80%9304) 30 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2004%E2%80%9305) 31 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2005%E2%80%9306) 32 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2006%E2%80%9307) 33 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2007%E2%80%9308) 34 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2008%E2%80%9309) 35 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2009%E2%80%9310) 36 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2010%E2%80%9311) 37 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2011%E2%80%9312) 38 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2012%E2%80%9313) 39 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2013%E2%80%9314) 40 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2014%E2%80%9315) 41 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2015%E2%80%9316) 42 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2016%E2%80%9317) 43 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2017%E2%80%9318) 44 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2018%E2%80%9319) 45 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2019%E2%80%9320) 46 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2020%E2%80%9321) 47 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2021%E2%80%9322) 48 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2022%E2%80%9323) 49 (/wiki/Recurring_Saturday_Night_Live_characters_and_sketches_introduced_2023%E2%80%9324) Characters and sketches The Barry Gibb Talk Show (/wiki/The_Barry_Gibb_Talk_Show) Bill Brasky (/wiki/Bill_Brasky) Bill Swerski's Superfans (/wiki/Bill_Swerski%27s_Superfans) Blizzard Man (/wiki/Blizzard_Man) The Blues Brothers (/wiki/The_Blues_Brothers) The Boston Teens (/wiki/The_Boston_Teens) Canteen Boy (/wiki/Canteen_Boy) Celebrity Jeopardy! (/wiki/Celebrity_Jeopardy!_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Chad (/wiki/Chad_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Chippendales Audition (/wiki/Chippendales_Audition) The Chris Farley Show (/wiki/The_Chris_Farley_Show) The Church Lady (/wiki/The_Church_Lady) Coffee Talk (/wiki/Coffee_Talk_(Saturday_Night_Live)) The Coneheads (/wiki/Coneheads) The Continental (/wiki/The_Continental_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Debbie Downer (/wiki/Debbie_Downer) Ed Grimley (/wiki/Ed_Grimley) Emily Litella (/wiki/Emily_Litella) Father Guido Sarducci (/wiki/Father_Guido_Sarducci) The Folksmen (/wiki/The_Folksmen) Gerald "T-Bones" Tibbons (/wiki/Gerald_%22T-Bones%22_Tibbons) Hanukkah Harry (/wiki/Hanukkah_Harry) Hans and Franz (/wiki/Hans_and_Franz) Happy Fun Ball (/wiki/Happy_Fun_Ball) The Land of Gorch (/wiki/The_Land_of_Gorch) Land Shark (/wiki/Land_Shark_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Larry the Lobster (/wiki/Larry_the_Lobster) The Last Voyage of the Starship (/wiki/The_Last_Voyage_of_the_Starship_Enterprise) Enterprise A Limo for a Lame-O (/wiki/A_Limo_for_a_Lame-O) MacGruber (/wiki/MacGruber) Mango Mary Katherine Gallagher (/wiki/Mary_Katherine_Gallagher) Matt Foley (/wiki/Matt_Foley) More Cowbell (/wiki/More_Cowbell) Mr. Bill (/wiki/Mr._Bill) The Nerds (/wiki/The_Nerds) Olympia Café (/wiki/Olympia_Caf%C3%A9) Pat (/wiki/Pat_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Please Don't Destroy (/wiki/Please_Don%27t_Destroy) David S. Pumpkins (/wiki/David_S._Pumpkins) Halloween Special Racist Word Association Interview (/wiki/Word_Association_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Roseanne Roseannadanna (/wiki/Roseanne_Roseannadanna) Samurai Futaba (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_Samurai) Sprockets (/wiki/Sprockets_(Saturday_Night_Live)) Stefon (/wiki/Stefon) Stuart Smalley (/wiki/Stuart_Smalley) Theodoric of York, Medieval Barber (/wiki/Theodoric_of_York,_Medieval_Barber) TV Funhouse (/wiki/TV_Funhouse) The Ambiguously Gay Duo (/wiki/The_Ambiguously_Gay_Duo) The X-Presidents (/wiki/The_X-Presidents) Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer (/wiki/Unfrozen_Caveman_Lawyer) Wayne's World (/wiki/Wayne%27s_World) Weekend Update (/wiki/Weekend_Update) What Up with That? (/wiki/What_Up_with_That%3F) Impersonations Joe Biden (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live_parodies_of_Joe_Biden) George H. W. 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New Zealand model and actress For other people named Rachel Hunter, see Rachel Hunter (disambiguation) (/wiki/Rachel_Hunter_(disambiguation)) . Rachel Hunter Hunter in 2008 Born ( 1969-09-08 ) 8 September 1969 (age 54) Glenfield (/wiki/Glenfield,_New_Zealand) , Auckland (/wiki/Auckland) , New Zealand Occupations Model actress Years active 1986–Present Spouse Rod Stewart (/wiki/Rod_Stewart) ( m. 1990; div. 2006) Children 2 Modeling information Height 5 ft 11 in (180 cm) Hair color Blonde Eye color Blue Website rachelhunter (http://rachelhunter.com) .com (http://rachelhunter.com) Rachel Hunter (born 8 September 1969) [1] (#cite_note-TweetBirthday-1) is a New Zealand model, actress, and the host of Imagination Television's (/wiki/Imagine_Television) Rachel Hunter's Tour of Beauty . [2] (#cite_note-2) She has appeared on several magazine covers, including Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) , Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone_(magazine)) , Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) , Playboy (/wiki/Playboy_(magazine)) , Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) , and Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) . She has been on the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) twice: in 1994 (alongside Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) and Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) ) and in 2006 (alongside six other models). [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Early life [ edit ] Hunter was born in Glenfield (/wiki/Glenfield,_New_Zealand) , a suburb of Auckland (/wiki/Auckland) , New Zealand, [5] (#cite_note-Telegraph-5) and educated at Glenfield College (/wiki/Glenfield_College) . [6] (#cite_note-6) Her parents divorced when she was still a child. As a child she wanted to be a ballet (/wiki/Ballet) dancer, but at 13 became ill with toxoplasmosis (/wiki/Toxoplasmosis) , which curtailed her dancing ambitions. [5] (#cite_note-Telegraph-5) Career [ edit ] External images Hunter's (https://web.archive.org/web/20120128105107/http://i.cdn.turner.com/sivault/si_online/covers/images/1994/0214_large.jpg) Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Swimsuit_Issue) cover from February 1994 Hunter's (https://web.archive.org/web/20120106110012/http://i.cdn.turner.com/sivault/si_online/covers/images/2006/0217_large.jpg) Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Swimsuit_Issue) cover from February 2006 Modelling [ edit ] Hunter began her career at age 16, modelling in France, Australia and New Zealand, appearing in Australian Vogue , Harper's Bazaar , Australian Cosmopolitan and for various campaigns throughout New Zealand and Australia. She became the face of Tip Top Ice-Cream (/wiki/Tip_Top_(ice_cream)) in New Zealand and was the "Trumpet Girl". She was quickly signed up to Ford Models (/wiki/Ford_Models) and immediately embarked on a successful career, landing a Cover Girl (/wiki/CoverGirl) cosmetics contract and becoming the spokesperson for the company for several years. [7] (#cite_note-FMD-7) Hunter rose to global prominence after posing as a Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) swimsuit model in 1989. [8] (#cite_note-NYMag-8) She subsequently appeared on magazine covers, including Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) and on the 1994 "Dream Team" cover of Sports Illustrated ' s annual swimsuit issue with other supermodels Elle MacPherson (/wiki/Elle_MacPherson) and Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) , and again graced its cover, this time solo, 12 years later in 2006. Hunter also appeared on the cover of Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) , Australian Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , American and international editions of Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) and Dutch Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) . Hunter posed nude for a cover-featured Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) pictorial published in April 2004. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) Hunter is signed to Ford Models in New York, Select Model Management (/wiki/Select_Model_Management) in London, and Chadwick Models in Sydney. [7] (#cite_note-FMD-7) Acting [ edit ] Hunter first appeared on television in 1985 in an advertisement for the New Zealand ice cream brand Tip Top, promoting their "Trumpet" ice-cream. Hunter guest starred in a 1997 episode of The Drew Carey Show (/wiki/The_Drew_Carey_Show) as herself. She has appeared in several independent films, including 1999's A Walk in the Park and 2000's Two Shades of Blue (/w/index.php?title=Two_Shades_of_Blue&action=edit&redlink=1) , an erotic thriller (/wiki/Erotic_thriller) with Marlee Matlin (/wiki/Marlee_Matlin) . [11] (#cite_note-11) She stars as a lesbian cook doling out relationship advice in the award-winning indie film (/wiki/Indie_film) La Cucina (/wiki/La_Cucina_(film)) . She had a brief appearance as a sexy mother in Dennis Dugan (/wiki/Dennis_Dugan) 's The Benchwarmers (/wiki/The_Benchwarmers) (2006) and also played a sultry, bikini-clad mother in the music video for Fountains of Wayne (/wiki/Fountains_of_Wayne) 's 2003 song " Stacy's Mom (/wiki/Stacy%27s_Mom) ". Hunter was one of six celebrities in the inaugural cast of the American dance competition (/wiki/Reality_competition) series Dancing with the Stars (/wiki/Dancing_with_the_Stars) in 2005. [12] (#cite_note-12) She appeared on a 2005 celebrity episode of Lingo (/wiki/Lingo_(American_game_show)) , where she and her partner Trista Rehn (/wiki/Trista_Rehn) split $30,000 for charity. Hunter is an ambassador to The Born Free Foundation (/wiki/Born_Free_Foundation) , and established the Rachel Hunter Lowland Gorilla Fund. Hunter also appeared as herself in the 2004 Christmas Special of The Vicar of Dibley (/wiki/The_Vicar_of_Dibley) . She also starred in Confessions of a Go-Go Girl (/wiki/Confessions_of_a_Go-Go_Girl) (2008), The Perfect Assistant (/wiki/The_Perfect_Assistant) (2008), [13] (#cite_note-13) the science fiction TV movies Piranhaconda (/wiki/Piranhaconda) [14] (#cite_note-14) (2011) and Swamp Volcano , aka Miami Magma (2012). [15] (#cite_note-15) Hunter (left), alongside the governor-general, Dame Patsy Reddy (/wiki/Patsy_Reddy) , at the Suffrage 125 launch at Government House, Wellington (/wiki/Government_House,_Wellington) , on 7 March 2018 She appeared as a judge on New Zealand's Got Talent (/wiki/New_Zealand%27s_Got_Talent) from 2012 to 2013. [16] (#cite_note-judge-16) In 2015, Hunter fronted her own television series titled Rachel Hunter's Tour of Beauty for TV One (/wiki/TV_One_(New_Zealand)) where she travelled the world to discover what beauty meant in various countries. Personal life [ edit ] New Zealand portal (/wiki/Portal:New_Zealand) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) In the late 1980s, Hunter lived with rock musician Kip Winger (/wiki/Kip_Winger) . Winger stated after their relationship ended that he was left heartbroken when Hunter left him for Rod Stewart. [17] (#cite_note-17) At the age of 21, Hunter met rock star Rod Stewart (/wiki/Rod_Stewart) , 24 years her senior, in a Los Angeles nightclub. They married three months later at the Beverly Hills Presbyterian Church in Beverly Hills, California, on 15 December 1990. [18] (#cite_note-18) Together they have two children: Renée (b. 1992) and Liam (b. 1994). They separated in January 1999 after eight years of marriage, and their divorce was finalised on 2 November 2006. [19] (#cite_note-19) She had a year-long relationship with Canadian NHL (/wiki/NHL) ice hockey player Sean Avery (/wiki/Sean_Avery) in 2004, [ citation needed ] and in 2006 began a three-year relationship with Jarret Stoll (/wiki/Jarret_Stoll) , 13 years her junior, also a Canadian NHL player who played for, and won the Stanley Cup with, the Los Angeles Kings. Her son Liam was a junior player being mentored by him while playing for the LA Kings Juniors when they first met. Stoll proposed to Hunter in 2008 whilst he accompanied her on a trip home to her native New Zealand later that year and they were due to marry on 14 August 2009, but the wedding was called off by Stoll seven weeks prior to their wedding day. [20] (#cite_note-20) Filmography [ edit ] Film [ edit ] Year Title Role Notes 1998 Just a Little Harmless Sex (/wiki/Just_a_Little_Harmless_Sex) Marilyn 1999 Two Shades of Blue Susan Price 1999 Winding Roads (/wiki/Winding_Roads_(film)) Kelly Simons 1999 A Walk in the Park Sally's sister 2000 Tripfall (/wiki/Tripfall) Gina Williams 2001 MacArthur Park (/wiki/MacArthur_Park_(film)) Karen 2001 Pendulum Amanda Reeve 2001 Boys Klub The Goddess 2001 Rock Star (/wiki/Rock_Star_(2001_film)) A.C.'s Wife 2002 Redemption of the Ghost Gloria 2003 Haunted Lighthouse (/wiki/Haunted_Lighthouse) Rich Widow Feeney Short film 2004 El padrino (/wiki/El_Padrino_(film)) Newscaster 2005 You and Your Stupid Mate (/wiki/You_and_Your_Stupid_Mate) Karen 2005 Freezerburn (/wiki/Freezer_Burn_(film)) Holly Hardin 2006 Final Move Iris Quarrie 2006 I.R.A.: King of Nothing British Intelligence Agent 2006 The Benchwarmers (/wiki/The_Benchwarmers) Hot Mother 2006 Ozzie Beth Morton 2007 Dead Write Jade also Associate Producer 2007 Mexican American Jacqueline Direct-to-Video 2007 7-10 Split (/wiki/7-10_split) Chiropracter 2007 La cucina (/wiki/La_Cucina_(film)) Jude 2009 Jordon Saffron: Taste This! (/wiki/Jordon_Saffron_Taste_This!) Nikki 2010 The Brazen Bull (/wiki/The_Brazen_Bull) Detective Vinyec 2010 Black Widow (/wiki/Black_Widow_(2010_film)) Dr. Laura 2011 A Matter of Justice Nicole Ibiza 2013 The Banksters, Madoff with America Mimi Mymen 2014 Soul Mates Carly Television [ edit ] Year Title Role Notes 1991 Ford Super Model of the World (/wiki/Ford_Models_Supermodel_of_the_World) Herself (host) Television Special 1993 Bobby's World (/wiki/Bobby%27s_World) Ms. Miller (voice role) Episode: " Bobby Ties the Knot (/wiki/List_of_Bobby%27s_World_episodes) " 1995 Mad About You (/wiki/Mad_About_You) Herself television debut Episode: " Just My Dog (/wiki/List_of_Mad_About_You_episodes) " 1997 The Drew Carey Show (/wiki/The_Drew_Carey_Show) Herself Episode: " Cap-Beer-Cin (/wiki/List_of_The_Drew_Carey_Show_episodes) o" 1999 Suddenly Susan (/wiki/Suddenly_Susan) Meegan Garrity Episode: "Sometimes You Feel Like a Nut" 2000 Best Actress Fiona Covington Television Movie 2003 MTV Cribs (/wiki/MTV_Cribs) Herself Episode: "Rachel Hunter/Shannon Elizabeth/Sam Madison" 2003 Are You Hot? (/wiki/Are_You_Hot%3F) Herself (co-host) 2004 The Vicar of Dibley (/wiki/The_Vicar_of_Dibley) Herself Episode: "Merry Christmas" 2005 Larva (/wiki/Larva_(film)) Hayley Anderson Television Movie 2005 Dancing with the Stars (/wiki/Dancing_with_the_Stars_(U.S._TV_series)) Herself (contestant) Reality series; 5 episodes 2006 Style Me with Rachel Hunter Herself (judge) Reality series; 8 episodes 2006 Make Me a Supermodel Herself Reality series; 6 episodes 2006 Celebrity Paranormal Project (/wiki/Celebrity_Paranormal_Project) Herself Reality series; 8 episodes 2008 The Perfect Assistant (/wiki/The_Perfect_Assistant) Judith Manion Television Movie 2008 Confessions of a Go-Go Girl (/wiki/Confessions_of_a_Go-Go_Girl) Donna Mercer Television Movie 2008–2010 She's Got the Look (/wiki/She%27s_Got_the_Look) Herself (Guest judge) 14 episodes 2010 Gravity (/wiki/Gravity_(TV_series)) Shawna Rollins series regular; 10 episodes (/wiki/List_of_Gravity_episodes) 2010 10 Things I Hate About You (/wiki/10_Things_I_Hate_About_You_(TV_series)) Herself Episode: " Too Much Information (/wiki/List_of_10_Things_I_Hate_About_You_(TV_series)_episodes) " 2011 Miami Magma Antoinette Vitrini Television Movie 2012 Piranhaconda (/wiki/Piranhaconda) Talia Television Movie 2012 New Zealand's Got Talent (/wiki/New_Zealand%27s_Got_Talent) Herself Reality series 2012 RuPaul's Drag Race All Stars (/wiki/RuPaul%27s_Drag_Race:_All_Stars) Herself (Guest Judge) Episode: "It Takes Two" 2015 Her Infidelity Lily Helms Television Movie 2016 FabLife (/wiki/FABLife) Herself (Co-Hostess) Episode: "Beauty Secrets Spectacular with Supermodel Rachel Hunter" 2016 Hollywood Medium (/wiki/Hollywood_Medium_With_Tyler_Henry) Herself Episode: " Corey Feldman (/wiki/Corey_Feldman) /Rachel Hunter/ Evelyn Lozada (/wiki/Evelyn_Lozada) " 2017 The Women Behind The Women: Behind Steel Dragon Wife Television Movie 2023 RuPaul's Drag Race Down Under (/wiki/RuPaul%27s_Drag_Race_Down_Under_(season_3)) Herself (Guest Judge) Episode: "BMX Bitches" Music videos [ edit ] Year Title Role Notes 1991 " Broken Arrow (/wiki/Rod_Stewart_discography) " by Rod Stewart (/wiki/Rod_Stewart) Woman Directed by Peter Nydrie (/wiki/Peter_Nydrle) 2003 " Stacy's Mom (/wiki/Stacy%27s_Mom) " by Fountains of Wayne (/wiki/Fountains_of_Wayne) Stacy's Mom Directed by Chris Applebaum 2006 "Mojo" by Peeping Tom (/wiki/Peeping_Tom_(band)) Woman Created by Matt McDermitt Dancing with the Stars [ edit ] Week # Dance / Song Judge's scores Result Inaba (/wiki/Carrie_Ann_Inaba) Goodman (/wiki/Len_Goodman) Tonioli (/wiki/Bruno_Tonioli) 1 Waltz (/wiki/Waltz) / " Three Times a Lady (/wiki/Three_Times_a_Lady) " 7 6 7 No elimination 2 Rumba (/wiki/Rhumba) / " I Don't Wanna Miss a Thing (/wiki/I_Don%27t_Want_to_Miss_a_Thing) " 8 8 8 Bottom two 3 Tango (/wiki/Tango) / " Toxic (/wiki/Toxic_(song)) " 8 9 9 Safe 4 Samba (/wiki/Samba) / " Tequila (/wiki/Tequila_(Champs_song)) " 7 9 9 Eliminated Group Viennese Waltz (/wiki/Viennese_waltz) / " I Got You Babe (/wiki/I_Got_You_Babe) " No scores given References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-TweetBirthday_1-0) "RACHEL HUNTER on Twitter" (https://twitter.com/rachelhunterx/status/641340892347940865) . Twitter . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Rachel's Tour of Beauty" (http://rachelstourofbeauty.com/) . Rachel's Tour of Beauty . Retrieved 3 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "SI Swimsuit Covers Through the Years" (https://www.si.com/more-sports/photos/2013/02/08/si-swimsuit-covers/22) . SI.com . Retrieved 3 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "SI Swimsuit Covers Through the Years" (https://www.si.com/more-sports/photos/2013/02/08/si-swimsuit-covers/10) . SI.com . Retrieved 3 November 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Thomas, David. "Rachel reveals (almost) all" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3614251/Rachel-reveals-almost-all.html) . The Telegraph. Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3614251/Rachel-reveals-almost-all.html) from the original on 12 January 2022 . Retrieved 5 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Fox, Michael (9 September 2009). "Rachel Hunter's rise to the top" (http://www.stuff.co.nz/entertainment/celebrities/2845697/Rachel-Hunters-rise-to-the-top) . Stuff.co.nz . Retrieved 14 August 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Rachel Hunter" (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Rachel_Hunter) . FashionModelDirectory.com . Retrieved 27 December 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYMag_8-0) "Rachel Hunter" (http://nymag.com/fashion/models/rhunter/rachelhunter/) . New York Magazine . Retrieved 27 December 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Hunter among Playboy's best bunnies (+pics)" (http://www.stuff.co.nz/entertainment/493843/Hunter-among-Playboys-best-bunnies-pics) . 31 January 2009 . Retrieved 28 September 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Rachel Hunter" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120305063021/http://www.playboy.com/girls/celebrities/features/rachel-hunter/rachel-hunter.html) . Playboy.com. Archived from the original (http://www.playboy.com/girls/celebrities/features/rachel-hunter/rachel-hunter.html) on 5 March 2012 . Retrieved 27 December 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Two Shades of Blue (1999)" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0161029/) . IMDb.com . Retrieved 9 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Rachel Hunter hits the dance floor on US version of hit show" (https://www.nzherald.co.nz/lifestyle/rachel-hunter-hits-the-dance-floor-on-us-version-of-hit-show/5CRH5H757RMMNDILYTX4AOU2QY/) . NZ Herald . Retrieved 2 June 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "The Perfect Assistant (2008)" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1063336/) . IMDB.com . Retrieved 19 August 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Piranhaconda (2011)" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1886644/) . IMDb.com . Retrieved 9 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Miami Magma (2011)" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1808304/) . IMDb.com . Retrieved 9 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-judge_16-0) "UB40 front man to judge New Zealand's Got Talent" (http://www.nzherald.co.nz/entertainment/news/article.cfm?c_id=1501119&objectid=10816396) . 29 June 2012 . New Zealand Herald. 29 June 2012 . Retrieved 14 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Winger: Gets Real" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121006093717/http://www.sleazeroxx.com/vault/1990win.shtml) . Sleaze Roxx. Archived from the original (http://www.sleazeroxx.com/vault/1990win.shtml) on 6 October 2012 . Retrieved 9 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Chronicle column" (https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C0CE0D91539F93BA25751C1A966958260&scp=1&sq=%22rachel+hunter%22&st=nyt) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . 18 December 1990. (subscription required) ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Entertainment | Rod Stewart divorce is finalised" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/entertainment/6159441.stm) . BBC News. 30 November 2006 . Retrieved 9 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Kari Friedlander (25 June 2009). "Rachel Hunter Calls off Wedding" (https://www.tvguide.com/News/Hunter-Wedding-Off-1007252.aspx) . TV Guide Online . Retrieved 25 June 2009 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Rachel Hunter (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Rachel_Hunter) . Rachel Hunter (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0005035/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Rachel Hunter (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/rachel_hunter/) at Fashion Model Directory (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) v t e Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) cover models (/wiki/List_of_Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue_cover_models) 1960s Babette March (/wiki/Babette_March) Sue Peterson (/w/index.php?title=Sue_Peterson_(model)&action=edit&redlink=1) Sunny Bippus (/wiki/Sunny_Bippus) Marilyn Tindall (/wiki/Marilyn_Tindall) Turia Mau (/wiki/Turia_Mau) Jamee Becker (/wiki/Jamee_Becker) 1970s Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) Tannia Rubiano (/wiki/Tannia_Rubiano) Shelia Roscoe (/w/index.php?title=Shelia_Roscoe&action=edit&redlink=1) Dayle Haddon (/wiki/Dayle_Haddon) Ann Simonton (/wiki/Ann_Simonton) Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) Yvette and Yvonne Sylvander (/wiki/Yvette_and_Yvonne_Sylvander) Lena Kansbod (/wiki/Lena_Kansbod) Maria João (/wiki/Maria_Jo%C3%A3o_(model)) Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) 1980s Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) 1990s Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Vendela Kirsebom (/wiki/Vendela_Kirsebom) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) , Rachel Hunter , Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Valeria Mazza (/wiki/Valeria_Mazza) , Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) 2000s Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Elsa Benítez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) , Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) , Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) , Rachel Hunter , Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) , Elsa Benítez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) , Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) , Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Beyoncé Knowles (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) Bar Refaeli (/wiki/Bar_Refaeli) 2010s Brooklyn Decker (/wiki/Brooklyn_Decker) Irina Shayk (/wiki/Irina_Shayk) Kate Upton (/wiki/Kate_Upton) Kate Upton (/wiki/Kate_Upton) Nina Agdal (/wiki/Nina_Agdal) , Lily Aldridge (/wiki/Lily_Aldridge) , Chrissy Teigen (/wiki/Chrissy_Teigen) Hannah Jeter (/wiki/Hannah_Jeter) Ronda Rousey (/wiki/Ronda_Rousey) , Ashley Graham (/wiki/Ashley_Graham) , Hailey Clauson (/wiki/Hailey_Clauson) Kate Upton (/wiki/Kate_Upton) Danielle Herrington (/wiki/Danielle_Herrington) Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) , Camille Kostek (/wiki/Camille_Kostek) , Alex Morgan (/wiki/Alex_Morgan) 2020s Kate Bock (/wiki/Kate_Bock) , Jasmine Sanders (/wiki/Jasmine_Sanders) , Olivia Culpo (/wiki/Olivia_Culpo) Megan Thee Stallion (/wiki/Megan_Thee_Stallion) , Naomi Osaka (/wiki/Naomi_Osaka) , Leyna Bloom (/wiki/Leyna_Bloom) Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) , Ciara (/wiki/Ciara) , Maye Musk (/wiki/Maye_Musk) , Yumi Nu (/wiki/Yumi_Nu) Kim Petras (/wiki/Kim_Petras) , Martha Stewart (/wiki/Martha_Stewart) , Megan Fox (/wiki/Megan_Fox) , Brooks Nader (/wiki/Brooks_Nader) v t e 1980–1989 Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) 1980 Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) Irina Gerasimenko (/wiki/Irena_Medavoy) Jocelyn Javits (/w/index.php?title=Jocelyn_Javits&action=edit&redlink=1) Bernadette Swann (/w/index.php?title=Bernadette_Swann&action=edit&redlink=1) 1981 Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) Kelly Emberg (/wiki/Kelly_Emberg) Lena Kansbod (/wiki/Lena_Kansbod) Rita Tellone (/w/index.php?title=Rita_Tellone&action=edit&redlink=1) 1982 Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Charissa Craig (/w/index.php?title=Charissa_Craig&action=edit&redlink=1) Kathryn Redding (/w/index.php?title=Kathryn_Redding&action=edit&redlink=1) 1983 Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Kelly Emberg (/wiki/Kelly_Emberg) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) Hilary Safire (/w/index.php?title=Hilary_Safire&action=edit&redlink=1) Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) 1984 Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Kelly Emberg (/wiki/Kelly_Emberg) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Jean Pelton (/w/index.php?title=Jean_Pelton&action=edit&redlink=1) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) 1985 Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Sarah Nursey (/w/index.php?title=Sarah_Nursey&action=edit&redlink=1) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) Renée Simonsen (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Simonsen) 1986 Jenna de Rosnay (/wiki/Jenna_de_Rosnay) Kelly Emberg (/wiki/Kelly_Emberg) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Coco Mitchell (/w/index.php?title=Coco_Mitchell&action=edit&redlink=1) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) 1987 Karen Alexander (/wiki/Karen_Alexander_(fashion_model)) Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Monika Schnarre (/wiki/Monika_Schnarre) Renée Simonsen (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Simonsen) 1988 Karen Alexander (/wiki/Karen_Alexander_(fashion_model)) Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) Cindy Crawford (/wiki/Cindy_Crawford) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Estelle Lefébure (/wiki/Estelle_Lef%C3%A9bure) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Stephanie Seymour (/wiki/Stephanie_Seymour) 1989 Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) Sabrina Barnett (/w/index.php?title=Sabrina_Barnett&action=edit&redlink=1) Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) Kelly Emberg (/wiki/Kelly_Emberg) Rachel Hunter Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Estelle Lefébure (/wiki/Estelle_Lef%C3%A9bure) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Stephanie Seymour (/wiki/Stephanie_Seymour) Yvette Sylvander (/wiki/Yvette_and_Yvonne_Sylvander) Yvonne Sylvander (/wiki/Yvette_and_Yvonne_Sylvander) Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) Maria von Hartz (/w/index.php?title=Maria_von_Hartz&action=edit&redlink=1) Kara Young (/wiki/Kara_Young) Covergirl in bold v t e 1990–1999 Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) 1990 Sabrina Barnett (/w/index.php?title=Sabrina_Barnett&action=edit&redlink=1) Michaela Bercu (/wiki/Michaela_Bercu) Anna Getaneh (/w/index.php?title=Anna_Getaneh&action=edit&redlink=1) Rachel Hunter Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Estelle Lefébure (/wiki/Estelle_Lef%C3%A9bure) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Maria von Hartz (/w/index.php?title=Maria_von_Hartz&action=edit&redlink=1) Louise Vyent (/wiki/Louise_Vyent) Akure Wall (/w/index.php?title=Akure_Wall&action=edit&redlink=1) Roshumba Williams (/wiki/Roshumba_Williams) 1991 Monica Bellucci (/wiki/Monica_Bellucci) Rosie de la Cruz (/w/index.php?title=Rosie_de_la_Cruz&action=edit&redlink=1) Angie Everhart (/wiki/Angie_Everhart) Rachel Hunter Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Stephanie Seymour (/wiki/Stephanie_Seymour) Roshumba Williams (/wiki/Roshumba_Williams) 1992 Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) Angie Everhart (/wiki/Angie_Everhart) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Vendela Kirsebom (/wiki/Vendela_Kirsebom) Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Gail O'Neill (/wiki/Gail_O%27Neill) Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Roshumba Williams (/wiki/Roshumba_Williams) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) Shana Zadrick (/wiki/Shana_Zadrick) 1993 Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) Britta Dubbels (/w/index.php?title=Britta_Dubbels&action=edit&redlink=1) Rachel Hunter Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Vendela Kirsebom (/wiki/Vendela_Kirsebom) Estelle Lefébure (/wiki/Estelle_Lef%C3%A9bure) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Ingrid Seynhaeve (/wiki/Ingrid_Seynhaeve) Amber Smith (/wiki/Amber_Smith) Maria von Hartz (/w/index.php?title=Maria_von_Hartz&action=edit&redlink=1) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) 1994 Veronica Blume (/wiki/Veronica_Blume) Jenny Brunt (/w/index.php?title=Jenny_Brunt&action=edit&redlink=1) Angie Everhart (/wiki/Angie_Everhart) Rachel Hunter Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Kate James (/w/index.php?title=Kate_James&action=edit&redlink=1) Vendela Kirsebom (/wiki/Vendela_Kirsebom) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Lana Ogilvie (/wiki/Lana_Ogilvie) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) Ingrid Seynhaeve (/wiki/Ingrid_Seynhaeve) Amber Smith (/wiki/Amber_Smith) Aya Thorgren (/w/index.php?title=Aya_Thorgren&action=edit&redlink=1) Dara Torres (/wiki/Dara_Torres) Patricia Velásquez (/wiki/Patricia_Vel%C3%A1squez) Roshumba Williams (/wiki/Roshumba_Williams) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) 1995 Angie Everhart (/wiki/Angie_Everhart) Yasmeen Ghauri (/wiki/Yasmeen_Ghauri) Vendela Kirsebom (/wiki/Vendela_Kirsebom) Roberta Little (/w/index.php?title=Roberta_Little&action=edit&redlink=1) Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) Ingrid Seynhaeve (/wiki/Ingrid_Seynhaeve) Talisa Soto (/wiki/Talisa_Soto) Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) Patricia Velásquez (/wiki/Patricia_Vel%C3%A1squez) Manon von Gerkan (/w/index.php?title=Manon_von_Gerkan&action=edit&redlink=1) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) 1996 Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) Angie Everhart (/wiki/Angie_Everhart) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Valeria Mazza (/wiki/Valeria_Mazza) Georgianna Robertson (/wiki/Georgianna_Robertson) * Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) Ingrid Seynhaeve (/wiki/Ingrid_Seynhaeve) Manon von Gerkan (/w/index.php?title=Manon_von_Gerkan&action=edit&redlink=1) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) 1997 Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) Laetitia Casta (/wiki/Laetitia_Casta) m Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) Yasmeen Ghauri (/wiki/Yasmeen_Ghauri) p Steffi Graf (/wiki/Steffi_Graf) Eva Herzigová (/wiki/Eva_Herzigov%C3%A1) Vendela Kirsebom (/wiki/Vendela_Kirsebom) Valeria Mazza (/wiki/Valeria_Mazza) Karen Mulder (/wiki/Karen_Mulder) Navia Nguyen (/wiki/Navia_Nguyen) m Chandra North (/wiki/Chandra_North) p Brandi Quiñones (/w/index.php?title=Brandi_Qui%C3%B1ones&action=edit&redlink=1) m Niki Taylor (/wiki/Niki_Taylor) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) 1998 Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) Caprice Bourret (/wiki/Caprice_Bourret) Laetitia Casta (/wiki/Laetitia_Casta) Louise Forsling (/w/index.php?title=Louise_Forsling&action=edit&redlink=1) Eva Herzigová (/wiki/Eva_Herzigov%C3%A1) Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) Tanga Moreau (/wiki/Tanga_Moreau) Karen Mulder (/wiki/Karen_Mulder) p Chandra North (/wiki/Chandra_North) Irina Pantaeva (/wiki/Irina_Pantaeva) Lorraine Pascale (/wiki/Lorraine_Pascale) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) Niki Taylor (/wiki/Niki_Taylor) Stacey Williams (/wiki/Stacey_Williams) 1999 Kadra Ahmed Omar (/w/index.php?title=Kadra_Ahmed_Omar&action=edit&redlink=1) Michelle Behennah (/wiki/Michelle_Behennah) * Laetitia Casta (/wiki/Laetitia_Casta) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) * Amber Noelle Ehresmann (/w/index.php?title=Amber_Noelle_Ehresmann&action=edit&redlink=1) Luján Fernández (/wiki/Luj%C3%A1n_Fern%C3%A1ndez) Eva Herzigová (/wiki/Eva_Herzigov%C3%A1) Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) * Chandra North (/wiki/Chandra_North) Sarah O'Hare (/wiki/Sarah_Murdoch) * Andrea Orme (/w/index.php?title=Andrea_Orme&action=edit&redlink=1) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) * Audrey Quock (/wiki/Audrey_Quock) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) * Tamara Spoelder (/w/index.php?title=Tamara_Spoelder&action=edit&redlink=1) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) Covergirl in bold, *appeared in bodypainting (/wiki/Bodypainting) by Joanne Gair (/wiki/Joanne_Gair) , p appeared in print edition only, m appeared in special feature v t e 2000–2009 Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) 2000 Elsa Benítez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) p Kylie Bax (/wiki/Kylie_Bax) Michelle Behennah (/wiki/Michelle_Behennah) Laetitia Casta (/wiki/Laetitia_Casta) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Luján Fernández (/wiki/Luj%C3%A1n_Fern%C3%A1ndez) Kristy Hinze (/wiki/Kristy_Hinze) Malia Jones (/wiki/Malia_Jones) p Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) Melania Knauss (/wiki/Melania_Trump) p Shakara Ledard (/wiki/Shakara_Ledard) Ana Paula Lemes (/w/index.php?title=Ana_Paula_Lemes&action=edit&redlink=1) p Noémie Lenoir (/wiki/No%C3%A9mie_Lenoir) Josie Maran (/wiki/Josie_Maran) p Carré Otis (/wiki/Carr%C3%A9_Otis) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Audrey Quock (/wiki/Audrey_Quock) p Gabrielle Reece (/wiki/Gabrielle_Reece) p Rachel Roberts (/wiki/Rachel_Roberts_(model)) Molly Sims (/wiki/Molly_Sims) p Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) Estella Warren (/wiki/Estella_Warren) 2001 Michelle Behennah (/wiki/Michelle_Behennah) Elsa Benítez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) Aurélie Claudel (/wiki/Aur%C3%A9lie_Claudel) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) * Luján Fernández (/wiki/Luj%C3%A1n_Fern%C3%A1ndez) Janelle Fishman (/w/index.php?title=Janelle_Fishman&action=edit&redlink=1) p Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) * Shakara Ledard (/wiki/Shakara_Ledard) * Kim Lemanton (/w/index.php?title=Kim_Lemanton&action=edit&redlink=1) p Noémie Lenoir (/wiki/No%C3%A9mie_Lenoir) * Shirley Mallmann (/wiki/Shirley_Mallmann) Josie Maran (/wiki/Josie_Maran) Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) p Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Audrey Quock (/wiki/Audrey_Quock) p Molly Sims (/wiki/Molly_Sims) * Fernanda Tavares (/wiki/Fernanda_Tavares) * Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) * Amy Wesson (/wiki/Amy_Wesson) 2002 Ana Beatriz Barros (/wiki/Ana_Beatriz_Barros) Elsa Benítez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) Ehrinn Cummings (/w/index.php?title=Ehrinn_Cummings&action=edit&redlink=1) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Isabeli Fontana (/wiki/Isabeli_Fontana) Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) Melissa Keller (/wiki/Melissa_Keller) Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) Shakara Ledard (/wiki/Shakara_Ledard) Vanessa Lorenzo (/wiki/Vanessa_Lorenzo) Josie Maran (/wiki/Josie_Maran) Carla Maria (/w/index.php?title=Carla_Maria&action=edit&redlink=1) p Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) p Annie Morton (/wiki/Annie_Morton) p Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) Chandra North (/wiki/Chandra_North) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) p Audrey Quock (/wiki/Audrey_Quock) Molly Sims (/wiki/Molly_Sims) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) 2003 Michelle Alves (/wiki/Michelle_Alves) p May Andersen (/wiki/May_Andersen) Ana Beatriz Barros (/wiki/Ana_Beatriz_Barros) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Reka Ebergenyi (/w/index.php?title=Reka_Ebergenyi&action=edit&redlink=1) p Isabeli Fontana (/wiki/Isabeli_Fontana) Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) Rachel Hunter * Melissa Keller (/wiki/Melissa_Keller) Noémie Lenoir (/wiki/No%C3%A9mie_Lenoir) Juliana Martins (/wiki/Juliana_Martins) Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) Sarah O'Hare (/wiki/Sarah_Murdoch) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Audrey Quock (/wiki/Audrey_Quock) Molly Sims (/wiki/Molly_Sims) Fernanda Tavares (/wiki/Fernanda_Tavares) p Jessica White (/wiki/Jessica_White) 2004 May Andersen (/wiki/May_Andersen) Ana Beatriz Barros (/wiki/Ana_Beatriz_Barros) Elsa Benítez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) * Melissa Keller (/wiki/Melissa_Keller) * Noémie Lenoir (/wiki/No%C3%A9mie_Lenoir) * Angela Lindvall (/wiki/Angela_Lindvall) Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) * Fernanda Motta (/wiki/Fernanda_Motta) Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) * Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Frankie Rayder (/wiki/Frankie_Rayder) Molly Sims (/wiki/Molly_Sims) Jessica Van Der Steen (/wiki/Jessica_Van_Der_Steen) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) Jessica White (/wiki/Jessica_White) * 2005 Michelle Alves (/wiki/Michelle_Alves) Ana Beatriz Barros (/wiki/Ana_Beatriz_Barros) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Alicia Hall (/wiki/Alicia_Hall) Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) * Shakara Ledard (/wiki/Shakara_Ledard) Noémie Lenoir (/wiki/No%C3%A9mie_Lenoir) Michelle Lombardo (/wiki/Michelle_Lombardo) Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) * Fernanda Motta (/wiki/Fernanda_Motta) Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) Oluchi Onweagba (/wiki/Oluchi_Onweagba) Frankie Rayder (/wiki/Frankie_Rayder) Daniella Sarahyba (/wiki/Daniella_Sarahyba) * Mallory Snyder (/wiki/Mallory_Snyder) Jessica Van Der Steen (/wiki/Jessica_Van_Der_Steen) Anne V (/wiki/Anne_Vyalitsyna) * Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) Jessica White (/wiki/Jessica_White) * 2006 Ana Beatriz Barros (/wiki/Ana_Beatriz_Barros) Elsa Benitez (/wiki/Elsa_Ben%C3%ADtez) Carla Campbell (/wiki/Carla_Campbell) Brooklyn Decker (/wiki/Brooklyn_Decker) Yamila Diaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) Rachel Hunter Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) * Noémie Lenoir (/wiki/No%C3%A9mie_Lenoir) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) Fernanda Motta (/wiki/Fernanda_Motta) Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) Aline Nakashima (/w/index.php?title=Aline_Nakashima&action=edit&redlink=1) Petra Němcová (/wiki/Petra_N%C4%9Bmcov%C3%A1) Oluchi Onweagba (/wiki/Oluchi_Onweagba) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) Pania Rose (/wiki/Pania_Rose) Daniella Sarahyba (/wiki/Daniella_Sarahyba) Molly Sims (/wiki/Molly_Sims) Mallory Snyder (/wiki/Mallory_Snyder) Yésica Toscanini (/wiki/Y%C3%A9sica_Toscanini) Veronica Varekova (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) Anne V (/wiki/Anne_Vyalitsyna) 2007 Ana Paula Araújo (/wiki/Ana_Paula_Ara%C3%BAjo_(model)) * Ana Beatriz Barros (/wiki/Ana_Beatriz_Barros) Brooklyn Decker (/wiki/Brooklyn_Decker) Yamila Díaz (/wiki/Yamila_Diaz-Rahi) Selita Ebanks (/wiki/Selita_Ebanks) Julie Henderson (/wiki/Julie_Henderson) Beyoncé Knowles (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) Marisa Miller (/wiki/Marisa_Miller) * Fernanda Motta (/wiki/Fernanda_Motta) Aline Nakashima (/w/index.php?title=Aline_Nakashima&action=edit&redlink=1) Raica Oliveira (/wiki/Raica_Oliveira) Oluchi Onweagba (/wiki/Oluchi_Onweagba) Tori Praver (/wiki/Tori_Praver) * Bar Refaeli (/wiki/Bar_Refaeli) Daniella Sarahyba (/wiki/Daniella_Sarahyba) * Irina Shayk (/wiki/Irina_Shayk) Fernanda Tavares (/wiki/Fernanda_Tavares) Yésica Toscanini (/wiki/Y%C3%A9sica_Toscanini) Anne V (/wiki/Anne_Vyalitsyna) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) 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Rachel Hunter Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) Daniela Peštová (/wiki/Daniela_Pe%C5%A1tov%C3%A1) Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) Veronika Vařeková (/wiki/Veronika_Va%C5%99ekov%C3%A1) (Celebrity special: Maria Sharapova (/wiki/Maria_Sharapova) ) underline indicates cover model, *appeared in bodypainting (/wiki/Bodypainting) by Joanne Gair (/wiki/Joanne_Gair) , p appeared in print edition only Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/1966926/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000114478222) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/73615316) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJf8ppXJrb7YVFYt4g4Dv3) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14188583c) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14188583c) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no2006099556) Poland (https://dbn.bn.org.pl/descriptor-details/9810559654805606) Other IdRef 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Italian luxury fashion house For other uses, see Prada (disambiguation) (/wiki/Prada_(disambiguation)) . Not to be confused with Pravda (/wiki/Pravda) . Prada S.p.A. Logo Since 2002 Prada boutique at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (/wiki/Galleria_Vittorio_Emanuele_II) in Milan, Italy Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) ( S.p.A. (/wiki/Societ%C3%A0_per_azioni) ) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) SEHK (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) : 1913 (https://www.hkex.com.hk/Market-Data/Securities-Prices/Equities/Equities-Quote?sym=1913&sc_lang=en) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded 1913 ; 111 years ago ( 1913 ) (as Fratelli Prada) Founder Mario Prada (/wiki/Mario_Prada) Headquarters Via Antonio Fogazzaro, 28 20135 Milan (/wiki/Milan) Italy 45°27′25″N 09°12′38″E / 45.45694°N 9.21056°E / 45.45694; 9.21056 Number of locations 606 boutiques [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Area served Worldwide Key people Andrea Guerra (/wiki/Andrea_Guerra_(businessman)) ( CEO (/wiki/Chief_Executive_Officer) ) Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) ( head designer (/wiki/Designer) ) Patrizio Bertelli (/wiki/Patrizio_Bertelli) ( chairman (/wiki/Chairperson) ) [2] (#cite_note-2) Products Luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) Revenue € (/wiki/Euro) 4.726 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €1.06 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €671.0 million (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €7.61 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €3.85 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Number of employees 14,876 (2023) [1] (#cite_note-Prada_Annual_Report_2023-1) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) Church's (/wiki/Church%27s) Car Shoe (/wiki/Car_Shoe) Pasticceria Marchesi Luna Rossa (/wiki/Luna_Rossa) Fondazione Prada (/wiki/Fondazione_Prada) Website prada.com (https://www.prada.com/) Prada S.p.A. ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ p r ɑː d ə / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ⓘ (/wiki/File:En-us-Prada.ogg) , PRAH -də ; Italian: [ˈpraːda] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ) is an Italian luxury fashion house (/wiki/Italian_fashion#Italian_fashion_houses,_designers_and_luxury_brands) founded in 1913 in Milan (/wiki/Milan) by Mario Prada (/wiki/Mario_Prada) . It specializes in leather handbags, travel accessories, shoes, ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) , and other fashion accessories. Prada licenses its name and branding to Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) for eyewear [3] (#cite_note-3) and L’Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) for fragrances and cosmetics. [4] (#cite_note-4) Founded in 1913 and named for the family of founder Mario Prada, the company originally sold imported English animal goods before transitioning to waterproof nylon fabrics in the 1970s under the leadership of Mario's granddaughter, Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) and her husband Patrizio Bertelli (/wiki/Patrizio_Bertelli) . By the 1990s, Prada was perceived as a luxury brand, a designation credited to originality in its designs. To further the business, Miuccia Prada founded Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) as a subsidiary of Prada around this time period; the company additionally partnered with LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) to acquire a joint stake in Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) ; Prada further assisted LVMH in its failed takeover of Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) . The brand struggled through the late 2000s and early to mid 2010s, which included a failed initial public offering (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) , though began a resurgence in popularity entering into the 2020s. Miuccia Prada and Bertelli, both entering old age, began a transition in leadership to their children in the 2020s, bringing in former Luxottica CEO Andrea Guerra (/wiki/Andrea_Guerra_(businessman)) to lead the company for the years during the transition. The house presently sees annual revenue in the billions of Euros, making €4.2 billion in 2022 with profit that same year totaling to €776 million; furthermore, Prada and less so Miu Miu are seen as having very high desirability among consumers across various reports. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) History [ edit ] Founding [ edit ] Tooled leather handbag made by Prada, 1935-45 ( RISD Museum (/wiki/RISD_Museum) ) The company started in 1913 by Mario Prada and his brother Martino as Fratelli Prada , a leather goods shop in Milan. [8] (#cite_note-lifeinitaly-8) [9] (#cite_note-pradagroup-9) Initially, the shop sold animal goods, imported English steamer trunks, and handbags. Mario Prada did not believe women should have a role in business, so he prevented female family members from entering his company. Ironically, Mario's son had no interest in the business, [10] (#cite_note-elle.com-10) so it was Mario's daughter Luisa who succeeded Mario and ran Prada for almost twenty years. Luisa's daughter, Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) , joined the company in 1970, eventually taking over from Luisa in 1978. [11] (#cite_note-britannica-11) Miuccia began making waterproof backpacks out of Pocono , a nylon (/wiki/Nylon) fabric. [8] (#cite_note-lifeinitaly-8) She met Patrizio Bertelli in 1977, an Italian who had begun his own leather goods business at the age of 24, and he joined the company soon after. He advised Miuccia on company business, which she followed. [11] (#cite_note-britannica-11) It was his advice to discontinue importing English goods and to change the existing luggage. [ citation needed ] Development [ edit ] Miuccia inherited the company in 1978 by which time sales were up to U.S. $450,000. With Bertelli alongside her as business manager, Miuccia was allowed time to implement her creativity in the company's designs. [8] (#cite_note-lifeinitaly-8) She would go on to incorporate her ideas into the house of Prada that would change it. [8] (#cite_note-lifeinitaly-8) She released her first set of backpacks and totes in 1979. They were made out of a tough military spec black nylon that her grandfather had used as coverings for steamer trunks. Initial success was not instant, as they were hard to sell due to the lack of advertising and high prices, but the lines would go on to become her first commercial hit. [11] (#cite_note-britannica-11) Next, Miuccia and Bertelli sought out wholesale accounts for the bags in upscale department stores and boutiques worldwide. In 1983, Prada opened a second boutique in the centre of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan's shopping heart, on the site of the previous historic "London House" emporium run by Felice Bellini from 1870 to the 1960s, reminiscent of the original shop, but with a sleek and modern contrast to it. [ citation needed ] The next big release was a nylon tote. That same year, the house of Prada began expansion across continental Europe and the United States by opening locations in prominent shopping districts within Florence (/wiki/Florence,_Italy) , Paris, Madrid (/wiki/Madrid) , and New York City. A shoe line was also released in 1984. In 1985 Miuccia released the "classic Prada handbag" that became an overnight sensation. Although practical and sturdy, its sleek lines and craftsmanship had a luxury that has become the Prada signature. [12] (#cite_note-max.gruppoeditori.it-12) In 1987, Miuccia and Bertelli married. Prada launched its women's ready-to-wear collection in 1988, and the designs came to be known for their dropped waistlines and narrow belts. Prada's popularity increased when the fashion world took notice of its clean lines, opulent fabrics, and basic colors. [11] (#cite_note-britannica-11) The logo for the label was not as obvious a design element as those on bags from other prominent luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) . It tried to market its lack of prestigious appeal, including of its apparel, by projecting an image of "anti-status" or "inverse snobbery". [ citation needed ] 1990s [ edit ] See also: Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) Prada's originality made it one of the most influential fashion houses, [8] (#cite_note-lifeinitaly-8) and the brand became a premium status symbol in the 1990s. Sales were reported at L 70 billion, or US$31.7 million, in 1998. [ citation needed ] Patrizio di Marco took charge of the growing business in the United States after working for the house in Asia. He was successful in having the Prada bags prominently displayed in department stores, so that they could become a hit with fashion editors. Prada's continued success was attributed to its "working-class" theme which, Ginia Bellafante (/wiki/Ginia_Bellafante) at The New York Times Magazine proclaimed, "was becoming chic in the high-tech, IPO-driven early 1990s." Furthermore, now husband and wife, Miuccia and Bertelli led the Prada label on a cautious expansion, making products hard to come by. In 1992, the high fashion (/wiki/High_fashion) brand Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) , named after Miuccia's nickname, launched. Miu Miu catered to younger consumers and celebrities. By 1993 Prada was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) (CFDA) award for accessories. [8] (#cite_note-lifeinitaly-8) Prada boutique at Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) , Manhattan The first ready-to-wear menswear collection was Spring/Summer 1998. [13] (#cite_note-auto1-13) By 1994, sales were at US$210 million, with clothing sales accounting for 20% (expected to double in 1995). Prada won another award from the CFDA, in 1995 as a "designer of the year" 1996 witnessed the opening of the 18,000 ft² Prada boutique in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) , New York, the largest in the chain at the time. By now the House of Prada operated in 40 locations worldwide, 20 of which were in Japan. The company owned eight factories and subcontracted work from 84 other manufacturers in Italy. Prada's and Bertelli's respective businesses were merged to create Prapar B.V. in 1996. The name, however, was later changed to Prada B.V., and Patrizio Bertelli was named Chief Executive Officer of the Prada luxury company. 1996 can also be seen as marking an important turning point in Prada's aesthetics, one that fueled the brand's worldwide reputation. Journalists praised Miuccia's development of an “ugly chic” style, which initially confused customers by offering blatantly unsexy outfits which then revealed to offer daring and original takes on the relationship between fashion and desire. [14] (#cite_note-14) Since then Prada has been regarded as one of the most intelligent and conceptual designers. In 1997, Prada posted revenue of US$674 million. Another store in Milan opened that same year. According to The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) , Bertelli smashed the windows of the store a day before the opening, after he had become deeply unsatisfied with the set-up. Bertelli also acquired shares in the Gucci group (/wiki/Gucci_group) , and later blamed Gucci for "aping his wife's designs." In June 1998, Bertelli gained 9.5% return on investment (/wiki/Return_on_investment) at US$260 million. [15] (#cite_note-15) Analysts began to speculate that he was attempting a take over of the Gucci group. The proposition seemed unlikely, however, because Prada was at the time still a small company and was in debt. Funding Universe states that "At the very least, Prada had a voice as one of Gucci's largest shareholders (a 10 percent holding would be required for the right to request a seat on the board) and would stand to profit tidily should anyone try to take over Gucci." However, Bertelli sold his shares to Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton (/wiki/LVMH) chairman Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) in January 1998 for a profit of US$140 million. Arnault was in fact attempting a take over of Gucci. LVMH had been purchasing fashion companies for a while and already owned Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior_SA) , Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) , and other luxury brands. Gucci, however, managed to fend him off by selling a 45% stake to industrialist François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) , for US$3 billion. [16] (#cite_note-washingtonpost.com1-16) In 1998, the first Prada menswear boutique opened in Los Angeles. Prada was determined to hold a leading portfolio of luxury brands, like the Gucci group and LVMH. Prada purchased 51% of Helmut Lang (/wiki/Helmut_Lang_(artist)) 's company based in New York for US$40 million in March 1999. [17] (#cite_note-nssmag.com-17) Lang's company was worth about US$100 million. Months later, Prada paid US$105 million to have full control of Jil Sander A.G., a German-based company with annual revenue of US$100 million. The purchase gained Prada a foothold in Germany, and months later Jil Sander resigned as chairwoman of her namesake company. Church & Company (/wiki/Church%27s) , an English shoemaker, also came under the control of Prada, when Prada bought 83% of the company for US$170 million. [18] (#cite_note-New_York_Times-18) A joint venture between Prada and the De Rigo group was also formed that year to produce Prada eyewear. In October 1999, Prada joined with LVMH and beat Gucci to buy a 51% stake in the Rome-based Fendi S.p.A (/wiki/Fendi) . Prada's share of the purchase (25.5%) was worth US$241.5 million out of the reported US$520 million total paid by both Prada and LVMH. [19] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-19) [20] (#cite_note-nytimes.com1-20) Prada took on debts of Fendi, as the latter company was not doing well financially. These acquisitions elevated Prada to the top of the luxury goods market in Europe. Revenue tripled from that of 1996, to L2 trillion. [ citation needed ] Despite apparent success, the company was still in debt. 2000s [ edit ] Prada in Pacific Place, Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) Silver leather wedges by Prada, 2005. Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) The company's merger and purchasing sprees slowed in the 2000s. However, the company signed a loose agreement with Azzedine Alaia (/wiki/Azzedine_Alaia) . Skincare products in unit doses were introduced in the United States, Japan, and Europe in 2000. A 30-day supply of cleansing lotion was marketed at the retail price of US$100. To help pay off debts of over US$850 million, the company planned on listing 30% of the company on the Milan Stock Exchange in June 2001. However, the offering slowed down after a decline in spending on luxury goods in the United States and Japan. In 2001, under the pressure of his bankers, Bertelli sold all of Prada's 25.5% share in Fendi to LVMH. The sale raised only US$295 million. By 2006, the Helmut Lang (/wiki/Helmut_Lang_(fashion_brand)) , Amy Fairclough, Ghee, and Jil Sander (/wiki/Jil_Sander) labels were sold. Jil Sander was sold to the private equity firm Change Capital Partners, which was headed by Luc Vandevelde, the chairman of Carrefour (/wiki/Carrefour) , while the Helmut Lang label is now owned by Japanese fashion company Link Theory. Prada is still recovering from the Fendi debt. More recently, a 45% stake of the Church & Company brand has been sold to Equinox. The Prada Spring/Summer 2009 Ready-to-Wear fashion show, held on 23 September 2008 in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , got infamous coverage because all the models on the catwalk were tottering [21] (#cite_note-21) – several of them stumbled, [22] (#cite_note-22) while two models fell down in front of the photographers and had to be helped by spectators to get up. [23] (#cite_note-23) They removed their shoes in order to continue their walk. [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-25) One more model ( Sigrid Agren (/wiki/Sigrid_Agren) ) even had to stop and go back during the finale walk as she couldn't manage walking in her high heels any longer. [26] (#cite_note-26) Interviewed right after the show, one model declared: "I was having a panic attack, my hands were shaking. The heels were so high." [27] (#cite_note-27) The designer Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) , on her side, did not blame the height of the shoes, but the silk little socks inside, which were slippery and moved inside of the shoes, preventing the models' feet from having a correct grip on the sole. [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) Miuccia Prada also assured that the shoes sold in stores would have a lower heel, [30] (#cite_note-30) and that the little socks would be sewn into the shoes in order to prevent further slips. But many fashionistas rightly claimed that the socks, once sewn into the shoes, would be non-washable and would quickly stink and become grey. [31] (#cite_note-31) Consequently, the shoes have never been commercially sold. 2010s [ edit ] According to Fortune (/wiki/Fortune_(magazine)) , Bertelli planned on increasing revenue of the company to US$5 billion by 2010. On 6 May 2011 Hong Kong Stock Exchange (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) came under fire for approving Prada's IPO despite the Prada Gender Discrimination Case (/wiki/Prada_Gender_Discrimination_Case) . Feminist NGOs and Hong Kong Legislative Council (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Legislative_Council) lawmaker Lee Cheuk-yan (/wiki/Lee_Cheuk-yan) protested in front of the Hong Kong Stock Exchange (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) . [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) On 24 June 2011 the brand was listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) to raise $2.14 billion, but failed to meet expectations reported by AAP on 17 June 2011 [38] (#cite_note-38) and Bloomberg. [39] (#cite_note-39) In 2015, Prada's turnover was 3,551.7 million euros, up 1 percent from 2014, while its gross operating profit fell 16.5 percent to 954.2 million euros. [40] (#cite_note-40) In July 2016, Prada began selling its clothing online through Net-a-Porter and Mytheresa in response to changing consumer preferences and the need to reach a wider audience. This strategic move allowed Prada to tap into e-commerce expertise, reduce overhead costs, and adapt to the digital age while maintaining its luxury brand image.. [41] (#cite_note-41) As of March 2018, Prada's sales turned positive after declining since 2014, and their stock jumped 14% at the news. [42] (#cite_note-42) Stating that Prada would be "(f)ocusing on innovative materials will allow the company to explore new boundaries of creative design while meeting the demand for ethical products," the company announced in 2019 that fur will be eliminated from the collection and all house brands as of 2020. [43] (#cite_note-43) 2020s [ edit ] In February 2020, Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli named the Belgian designer Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) as co-creative director. [44] (#cite_note-44) In August 2020, the fashion house announced it would no longer use kangaroo leather (/wiki/Kangaroo_leather) in its products. [45] (#cite_note-45) In 2020, fashion magazine Vanity Teen (/wiki/Vanity_Teen) promoted its Prada Resort 21 campaign. [46] (#cite_note-46) January 2023 saw Prada announce Andrea Guerra (/wiki/Andrea_Guerra_(businessman)) as its next CEO; Guerra formerly was CEO of both Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) and Eataly (/wiki/Eataly) , and later the leader of LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) 's hotel division. Guerra was onboarded to ease the transition between the Bertelli and his children, who are expected to inherit the company. One of Guerra's first moves was to look at dual listing Prada stock on both the Hong Kong Stock Exchange as well as on a European stock exchange, expected to be one in Milan. [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) Prada window display at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (/wiki/Galleria_Vittorio_Emanuele_II) , Milan (/wiki/Milan) Businesses today [ edit ] Runway shows [ edit ] Prada hosts seasonal runway shows on the international fashion calendar, taking place in Milan often at one of the brand's spaces. 1988 – first womenswear show in Milan 1998 – first menswear show in Milan [13] (#cite_note-auto1-13) Resort 2019 was shown in New York City at Prada's New York headquarters. [49] (#cite_note-49) The show was broadcast over screens in Times Square. [50] (#cite_note-50) Previous Prada models include Daria Werbowy (/wiki/Daria_Werbowy) , Gemma Ward (/wiki/Gemma_Ward) , Vanessa Axente (/wiki/Vanessa_Axente) , Suvi Koponen (/wiki/Suvi_Koponen) , Ali Stephens (/wiki/Ali_Stephens) , Vlada Roslyakova and Sasha Pivovarova (/wiki/Sasha_Pivovarova) , who went on to appear in Prada's ad campaigns for six consecutive seasons after opening the Prada fall 2005 runway show. Prada has also featured many actors as models in their menswear shows and campaigns, including Gary Oldman (/wiki/Gary_Oldman) , Adrien Brody (/wiki/Adrien_Brody) , Emile Hirsch (/wiki/Emile_Hirsch) [51] (#cite_note-51) and Norman Reedus (/wiki/Norman_Reedus) . [52] (#cite_note-52) Prada's runway music is designed by Frédéric Sanchez (/wiki/Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric_Sanchez) . [53] (#cite_note-53) Boutiques [ edit ] Prada store, Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) Epicenter by Herzog & de Meuron Prada has commissioned architects, most notably Rem Koolhaas (/wiki/Rem_Koolhaas) and Herzog & de Meuron (/wiki/Herzog_%26_de_Meuron) , to design flagship stores in various locations. 1913 – The original Prada store opened in Milan in inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. [54] (#cite_note-54) 1919 – Prada was appointed Official Supplier to the Italian Royal Household; as such, it incorporated the House of Savoy's coat of arms and knotted rope design into its logo. 1983 – Retail expansion sees a new boutique opened in Milan, as well as New York, Madrid, London, Paris, and Tokyo. 1991 – Further retail expansion and more boutiques open in New York City, China, and Japan. [55] (#cite_note-auto-55) 2001 – Broadway Epicenter in New York City by OMA opens. [56] (#cite_note-56) 2003 – Tokyo Epicenter by Herzog & de Meuron (/wiki/Herzog_%26_de_Meuron) [57] (#cite_note-57) opens. [58] (#cite_note-58) 2004 – Los Angeles Epicenter by OMA group opens. [59] (#cite_note-59) Restored in 2012. 2008 – A duplex megastore was opened in Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur) at the Pavilion Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Pavilion_Kuala_Lumpur) . 2009 – A new store focussing on the Prada Made to Order collection opened on Corso Venezia, Milan, designed by architect Robert Baciocchi. [60] (#cite_note-glass_magazine-60) 2012 – In June, Prada opened its largest ever boutique in Dubai's Mall of the Emirates (/wiki/Mall_of_the_Emirates) . [61] (#cite_note-61) Other activities [ edit ] Costume design [ edit ] In 2007, Miuccia Prada contributed costume designs for two digital characters in the CGI film Appleseed Ex Machina (/wiki/Appleseed_Ex_Machina) . [62] (#cite_note-62) In 2010, Giuseppe Verdi (/wiki/Giuseppe_Verdi) ’s Attila (/wiki/Attila_(opera)) premiered at New York’s Metropolitan Opera (/wiki/Metropolitan_Opera) with costumes by Miuccia Prada. [63] (#cite_note-63) In 2013, Miuccia Prada designed costumes for Baz Luhrmann (/wiki/Baz_Luhrmann) 's film The Great Gatsby (/wiki/The_Great_Gatsby_(2013_film)) in collaboration with costume designer Catherine Martin (/wiki/Catherine_Martin_(designer)) . [64] (#cite_note-64) Eyewear [ edit ] 2000 – Eyewear launched under Prada and Miu Miu labels, manufactured by Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) . [55] (#cite_note-auto-55) Perfumes [ edit ] 2004 – Fragrance launched with the Puig (/wiki/Puig_(company)) company. [65] (#cite_note-Puig-65) Women's fragrances were followed by men's fragrances in 2006. L'Oreal Group (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) acquired the beauty license from Puig in 2021. [66] (#cite_note-66) Exclusive Scents , 2003 [67] (#cite_note-pambianconews.com-67) Amber Woman , 2004 [68] (#cite_note-nssmag.com3-68) Amber Man , 2006 [69] (#cite_note-wwd.com-69) Infusion d'Iris , 2007 [70] (#cite_note-pambianconews.com2-70) Infusion d'Homme , 2008 [70] (#cite_note-pambianconews.com2-70) Luna Rossa , 2008 Amber pour Homme Intense , 2011 [71] (#cite_note-71) Prada Candy , 2011 [72] (#cite_note-milanofinanza.it-72) Prada Olfactories collection, 2015 [73] (#cite_note-73) Les Infusions de Prada , 2015 [74] (#cite_note-wwd.com2-74) L'Homme and la Femme Prada , 2016 [75] (#cite_note-75) L'Homme and la Femme Prada Intense , 2017 [76] (#cite_note-76) La Femme Prada L'eau , 2017 [77] (#cite_note-77) Luna Rossa Ocean , 2021 [78] (#cite_note-forbes.com-78) Prada Paradoxe , 2022 [79] (#cite_note-milanofinanza.it2-79) Cosmetics and Skincare [ edit ] 2023 – Launched through license with L'Oreal Luxe. [80] (#cite_note-80) The color cosmetics are branded Prada Color, and the skincare line is branded Prada Skin. Initial product range included lipstick, foundation, eyeshadow, cleanser, moisturizer, and serum. [81] (#cite_note-81) Mobile phone [ edit ] In May 2007, Prada began producing mobile phones with LG Electronics (/wiki/LG_Electronics) . Three mobile phones resulted from this collaboration: LG Prada (KE850) (/wiki/LG_Prada_(KE850)) , LG Prada II (KF900) (/wiki/LG_Prada_II_(KF900)) and LG Prada 3.0 (/wiki/LG_Prada_3.0) .These devices were the origin of the current Smartphone. Watches [ edit ] Production of watches started in 2007 and was suspended in 2012. One of the watch models produced by Prada, the Prada Link, is compatible with bluetooth (/wiki/Bluetooth) technology and can connect with the LG Prada II (/wiki/LG_Prada_II) mobile phone. [82] (#cite_note-82) Prada in popular culture [ edit ] Films [ edit ] The 1999 feature film 10 Things I Hate About You (/wiki/10_Things_I_Hate_About_You) features the following exchange extolling the virtues of Prada ownership: [83] (#cite_note-83) Bianca: You know, there's a difference between like and love. I like my Skechers but I love my Prada backpack. Chastity: But I love my Skechers. Bianca: That’s because you don’t have a Prada backpack. — 10 Things I Hate About You (1999) The 2006 feature film The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) (based on the 2003 book (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) of the same name written by Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) ) earned Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) an Oscar nomination for her role. Her shoe wardrobe for the film was said to be "at least 40% Prada" by the costume designer Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) . [84] (#cite_note-84) Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) , editor-in-chief of American Vogue and the supposed inspiration for Meryl Streep's character, wore Prada to the film's premiere. [85] (#cite_note-85) Art [ edit ] In 2005, a false Prada boutique was built as an art installation 26 miles away from Marfa, Texas. Called " Prada Marfa (/wiki/Prada_Marfa) ," the purpose of the structure was to eventually disintegrate into its surroundings. Shoes and bags were provided by Miuccia Prada from the Summer Season 2005 collection. [86] (#cite_note-86) The installation was looted after being completed, and the restoration needed led to a revise in plans, making the structure a permanent installation. [87] (#cite_note-87) Philanthropy and sponsoring [ edit ] Arts and architecture [ edit ] Inaugurated in 2000, Prada's Milan Headquarters are located in a former industrial space between via Bergamo and Via Fogazzaro. [88] (#cite_note-88) An art installation by Carsten Höller (/wiki/Carsten_H%C3%B6ller) that takes the form of a three-story metal slide leads from Miuccia Prada's office to the interior courtyard. [89] (#cite_note-89) Completed in 2002, Prada's New York City Headquarters open, located in a former Times Square piano factory renovated by the Herzog & de Meuron (/wiki/Herzog_%26_de_Meuron) architecture firm. [90] (#cite_note-90) 2003 – "Garden-Factories" Project – Prada collaborates with architect Guido Canali to rejuvenate the landscape surrounding their manufacturers. [55] (#cite_note-auto-55) In 2004, "Waist Down – Skirts by Miuccia Prada" bowed at the Tokyo Epicenter. A traveling exhibition featuring 100 skirts designed by Miuccia Prada and conceived by curator Kayoko Ota of AMO in collaboration with Mrs. Prada, the exhibition went on to Shanghai, New York, Los Angeles and Seoul. [91] (#cite_note-91) Completed in 2009, Prada commissioned an unusual multi-purpose building from Rem Koolhaas's OMA (/wiki/Office_for_Metropolitan_Architecture) group called the Prada Transformer (/wiki/Prada_Transformer) in Seoul (/wiki/Seoul) . [92] (#cite_note-92) The building was first used to display the "Waist Down – Skirts by Miuccia Prada" exhibition, and later changed into a movie theater. In 2012, Mrs. Prada, along with designer Elsa Schiaparelli (/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparelli) , was the subject of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) 's exhibition, "Impossible Conversations". [93] (#cite_note-93) The Los Angeles Epicenter was also restored in 2012. [94] (#cite_note-94) In 2014, an exhibition called "Pradasphere" bowed in London's Harrods (/wiki/Harrods) and Hong Kong's Central Ferry Pier 4 (/wiki/Central_Piers) , highlighting the Prada universe. [95] (#cite_note-95) In 2015, Prada opened a permanent home for Fondazione Prada (/wiki/Fondazione_Prada) in Milan. Located in a former distillery redesigned by Rem Koolhaas's OMA (/wiki/Office_for_Metropolitan_Architecture) group, it hosts a permanent collection of site-specific art as well as galleries of rotating exhibits. Intended to act as a gathering space for the local community, [96] (#cite_note-96) it also features a performance space, movie theater, bookstore, and a cafe – Bar Luce, [97] (#cite_note-97) with an interior designed by director Wes Anderson (/wiki/Wes_Anderson) . [98] (#cite_note-98) In 2016, after 6 years of restoration Prada opened an events space in a historic residence in the Rong Zhai district of Shanghai, China. [99] (#cite_note-99) Sports sponsoring [ edit ] Patrizio Bertelli's passion for sailing led Prada to form Team Luna Rossa in 1997 in order to participate in the America's Cup. [55] (#cite_note-auto-55) On 28 September 2017 it was announced by the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron (/wiki/Royal_New_Zealand_Yacht_Squadron) [100] (#cite_note-100) that Prada will be the hosting sponsor of Challenger Selection Series at the 2021 America's Cup (/wiki/2021_America%27s_Cup) , superseding the role of Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) started in 1983. The Challenger Selection Series that was the Louis Vuitton Cup (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton_Cup) , will now be known as the Prada Cup , and the America's Cup Match will be presented by Prada. It will be held in Auckland (/wiki/Auckland) , New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) , January 2021. [101] (#cite_note-olympics.com-101) Environmental sustainability [ edit ] The luxury Group, Prada, allied with UNESCO's Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission in 2019 to introduce an 'educational program', SEA BEYOND, about sea-peservation. [102] (#cite_note-102) The rationale behind such an educational project is to sensibilize the youth and make them aware of 'ocean pollution' and the importance of preserving the sea. [103] (#cite_note-:2-103) At the Sustainable Fashion Awards 2022, the project SEA BEYOND, which simultaneously included 'ocean-literacy' and 'sustainable fashion', received an award. [103] (#cite_note-:2-103) In June 2023, Prada announced its plan to increase its financial support for the Sea Beyond project. [104] (#cite_note-104) Accordingly, for the next two years, the Italian luxury brand will donate 1% of sales revenues from its Re-Nylon collections. [105] (#cite_note-105) [106] (#cite_note-106) This will allow the project to broaden its scope beyond ocean education with two ocean-related fields of action; support for scientific research and community projects. [107] (#cite_note-107) Also in December 2023, Prada unveiled its engagement to the UN’s Global Compact (UNGC) initiative which reflected its commitment to work according guiding principles relating to human rights, the environment, labour and anti-corruption. [108] (#cite_note-108) In January 2024, Prada announced its new partnership with the international non-profit organization Bibliothèques Sans Frontières involves the creation of a resource space dedicated to the seabed. [109] (#cite_note-109) Prada Female Discrimination Case [ edit ] Main article: Prada Female Discrimination Case (/wiki/Prada_Female_Discrimination_Case) Prada Female Discrimination Case was the first women's rights lawsuit and movement of luxury fashion industry that appeared in the global media in 2010. It was named “David vs. Goliath” by the global NGOs leader. The Prada Female Discrimination Case occurred 4 years after the Me Too movement (/wiki/Me_Too_movement) and was started by activist, Tarana Burke (/wiki/Tarana_Burke) . [110] (#cite_note-110) [111] (#cite_note-111) On December 10, 2009, Bovrisse filed a lawsuit against Prada Japan accusing them of discriminating against women in the workplace. [112] (#cite_note-112) [113] (#cite_note-113) Prada Luxembourg (where the trademark is registered) countersued for defamation, stating "voicing women's rights damaged Prada's brand logo." [114] (#cite_note-114) [115] (#cite_note-115) [116] (#cite_note-:0-116) [117] (#cite_note-:1-117) In May 2011, the Feminists rallied outside the Tsim She Tsui branch of Prada, calling on the Hong Kong exchange to veto the brand's initial public offering (IPO). [118] (#cite_note-118) In May 2012, a Labour Network Monitoring Asian Transnational Corporations issued a letter against LVMH Group on appointing Sebastian Suhl (/wiki/Sebastian_Suhl) as COO of Givenchy while he was in the case of sexual harassment in Japan and Luxembourg. [119] (#cite_note-119) In October 2012, Tokyo District Court Judge Reiko Morioka ruled in favor of Prada, saying their alleged discrimination was “acceptable for a luxury fashion label.” [120] (#cite_note-120) Bovrisse claimed the court was not fair and accused the judge of screaming at her. Bovrisse took her discrimination claims to the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights (/wiki/Office_of_the_United_Nations_High_Commissioner_for_Human_Rights) Committee on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (/wiki/Committee_on_Economic,_Social_and_Cultural_Rights) . [121] (#cite_note-121) The committee, without mentioning Bovrisse, did issue a report to the Japanese Government (/wiki/Government_of_Japan) urging them to enact regulations that would make sexual harassment in the workplace illegal. [116] (#cite_note-:0-116) [117] (#cite_note-:1-117) [122] (#cite_note-122) [123] (#cite_note-123) [124] (#cite_note-124) [125] (#cite_note-125) [126] (#cite_note-126) Labor rights [ edit ] Prada is the main buyer from the Turkish leather factory DESA (/wiki/Desa_(company)) , which was found guilty by the Turkish Supreme Court of illegally dismissing workers who joined a union. [127] (#cite_note-127) The Clean Clothes Campaign (/wiki/Clean_Clothes_Campaign) , a labor rights organization based in Europe, has called on Prada to ensure that freedom of association is respected at the factory. [128] (#cite_note-128) On 30 January 2013 Clean Clothes Campaign (/wiki/Clean_Clothes_Campaign) reported, "Trade Union Harassment Continues at Prada Supplier". [129] (#cite_note-129) Research of the social democratic party in the European Parliament, the Sheffield Hallam University (/wiki/Sheffield_Hallam_University) and further Groups accused Prada in 2023 of using forced labour camps exploiting muslim (/wiki/Muslim) Uyghurs in china provided by the Anhui Huamao Group Co., Ltd. (/w/index.php?title=Anhui_Huamao_Group_Co.,_Ltd.&action=edit&redlink=1) for production. [130] (#cite_note-130) Ostrich leather [ edit ] In February 2015, a report in The New York Times by Charles Curkin was published about the use of ostrich leather by luxury fashion brands and the brutal methods by which it is removed from the flightless birds. It was based on a months-long investigation conducted by PETA and namechecked Prada as one of fashion's key brands dealing in products made from ostrich skin. [131] (#cite_note-131) Blackface imagery [ edit ] On 14 December 2018 Prada was forced to pull a new range of accessories and displays from its stores following complaints that they featured " blackface (/wiki/Blackface) imagery." Prada scrapped the products after outrage spread online when a New Yorker spotted the character at the Prada's Soho store and blasted the brand for using " Sambo (/wiki/Sambo_(racial_term)) like imagery" in a viral Facebook post. [132] (#cite_note-Lang-132) Prada stated in a tweet in response, "Prada Group never had the intention of offending anyone and we abhor all forms of racism and racist imagery. In this interest we will withdraw the characters in question from display and circulation." [132] (#cite_note-Lang-132) In response to the incident, Prada assembled a diversity and inclusion advisory council co-chaired by Ava DuVernay (/wiki/Ava_DuVernay) and Theaster Gates (/wiki/Theaster_Gates) . [133] (#cite_note-133) Investigation on tax evasion [ edit ] As of 2014 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Prada&action=edit) , Prada was being investigated by Italian prosecutors for possible tax evasion after the luxury-goods company disclosed undeclared taxable income. Prada SpA Chairman Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) , Chief Executive Officer Patrizio Bertelli (/wiki/Patrizio_Bertelli) and accountant Marco Salomoni have been named in the probe, which is for possible undeclared or false tax claims. [134] (#cite_note-134) The chairwoman of Prada faced an investigation after it was alleged the company avoided nearly £400 million in tax by transferring services abroad. [135] (#cite_note-repubblica.it-135) Italy's Corriere della Sera (/wiki/Corriere_della_Sera) newspaper said on Friday Prada and Bertelli had paid 420 million euros ($571 million) to Italy's tax agency to settle their tax affairs. Despite the settlement, an investigation continued. [136] (#cite_note-136) As of 2016, prosecutors requested the case be dropped as the debt had been settled. [137] (#cite_note-137) See also [ edit ] Lavender Prada dress of Uma Thurman (/wiki/Lavender_Prada_dress_of_Uma_Thurman) , a 1995 dress worn to the Academy Awards References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g "Prada Group Annual Report 2023" (https://www.pradagroup.com/content/dam/pradagroup/documents/Shareholderinformation/2024/Inglese/E1913_AR.pdf) (PDF) . pradagroup.com . Retrieved 15 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Analysis | Prada's New CEO Takes the Reins at a Delicate Time" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/business/pradas-new-ceo-takes-the-reins-at-a-delicate-time/2022/12/07/35dbc8e4-75f5-11ed-a199-927b334b939f_story.html) . Washington Post . 8 December 2022. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0190-8286 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0190-8286) . Retrieved 9 August 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Zargani, Luisa (14 May 2015). "Prada and Luxottica Renew Eyewear License" (https://wwd.com/accessories-news/eyewear/prada-luxottica-renew-eyewear-license-10129378/) . Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved 3 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Arnett, George (12 December 2019). "Prestige beauty battle heats up with L'Oréal-Prada deal" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/beauty/prestige-beauty-battle-loreal-prada-coty) . Vogue Business . Retrieved 3 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Prada Reports Record-High Annual Revenue" (https://hypebeast.com/2023/3/prada-2022-financial-report-highest-sales-strong-profitability-miu-miu) . Hypebeast . 9 March 2023 . Retrieved 5 September 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Beauloye, Florine Eppe (24 August 2023). "Top 15 Most Popular Luxury Brands Online (2023 Ranking)" (https://luxe.digital/business/digital-luxury-ranking/most-popular-luxury-brands/) . Luxe Digital . Retrieved 5 September 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) admin (23 May 2023). "Luxury Brand Ranking 2023 – Unveiling the Top Luxury Icons" (https://mediaboom.com/news/luxury-brand-ranking/) . Mediaboom . Retrieved 5 September 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Grosvenor, Carrie. "The History of Prada" (http://www.lifeinitaly.com/fashion/prada.asp) . Life in Italy. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20080521163002/http://www.lifeinitaly.com/fashion/prada.asp) from the original on May 21, 2008 . Retrieved June 2, 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-pradagroup_9-0) "Prada Group" (http://www.pradagroup.com/en.html) . Prada Group. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110420033420/http://www.pradagroup.com/en.html) from the original on April 20, 2011 . Retrieved April 10, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-elle.com_10-0) "Miuccia Prada tra i candidati a ricevere l'Ambrogino d'oro 2023" (https://www.elle.com/it/moda/ultime-notizie/a45650536/miuccia-prada-ambrogino-oro-2023/) (in Italian) . 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" (https://www.nishimura.com/sites/default/files/tractate_pdf/en/Corporate_Counselor_13.pdf) "THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA WITH DISCRIMINATING FASHION – AN OVERVIEW OF SEXUAL HARASSMENT CLAIMS IN JAPAN" (https://www.nishimura.com/sites/default/files/tractate_pdf/en/Corporate_Counselor_13.pdf) " (https://www.nishimura.com/sites/default/files/tractate_pdf/en/Corporate_Counselor_13.pdf) (PDF) . Nishimura & Asahi . Retrieved 29 October 2021 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-125) Sahny, Pooja (6 June 2013). "Prada Japan being sued by ex-employee" (https://www.theupcoming.co.uk/2013/06/06/prada-japan-being-sued-by-ex-employee/) . The Upcoming . Retrieved 4 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-126) Bryant, Kenzie (25 June 2013). 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Indonesian dyeing technique For the mountains in Siberia, see Ikat Range (/wiki/Ikat_Range) . Ikat A typical Torajan (/wiki/Torajan_people) ikat funeral shroud ( porilonjong ), Sulawesi (/wiki/Sulawesi) , Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) Material cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , silk (/wiki/Silk) , silk cotton (/wiki/Silk_cotton) Place of origin Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) ( Austronesian (/wiki/Austronesians) and Daic (/wiki/Daic) -speaking peoples) Ikat (literally "to bind" in Indonesian languages (/wiki/Languages_of_Indonesia) ) is a dyeing technique from Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing (/wiki/Resist_dyeing) on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) , where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general groups of related traditions. The first is found among Daic (/wiki/Daic) -speaking peoples ( Laos (/wiki/Laos) , northern Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnam) , and Hainan (/wiki/Hainan) ). The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples (/wiki/Austronesian_peoples) ( Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) , Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) , Brunei (/wiki/Brunei) , and Timor-Leste (/wiki/Timor-Leste) ) and spread via the Austronesian expansion (/wiki/Austronesian_expansion) to as far as Madagascar (/wiki/Madagascar) . It is most prominently associated with the textile traditions of Indonesia in modern times, from where the term ikat originates. [1] (#cite_note-Buckley-1) Similar unrelated dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India (/wiki/India) , Central Asia (/wiki/Central_Asia) , Japan (/wiki/Japan) (where it is called kasuri (/wiki/Kasuri) ), Africa, and the Americas (/wiki/Americas) . In ikat , the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The yarns are then dyed. The bindings may then be altered to create a new pattern and the yarns dyed again with another colour. This process may be repeated multiple times to produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When the dyeing is finished all the bindings are removed and the yarns are woven into cloth. In other resist-dyeing techniques such as tie-dye (/wiki/Tie-dye) and batik (/wiki/Batik) the resist is applied to the woven cloth, whereas in ikat the resist is applied to the yarns before they are woven into cloth. Because the surface design is created in the yarns rather than on the finished cloth, in ikat both fabric faces are patterned. Ikat can be classified into three general types: warp ikat and weft ikat , in which the warp and weft (/wiki/Warp_and_weft) yarns are dyed, respectively; and double ikat , where both the warp and weft yarns are dyed. A characteristic of ikat textiles is an apparent "blurriness" to the design. The blurriness is a result of the extreme difficulty the weaver has lining up the dyed yarns so that the pattern comes out perfectly in the finished cloth. The blurriness can be reduced by using finer yarns or by the skill of the craftsperson. Ikat with little blurriness, multiple colours and complicated patterns are more difficult to create and therefore often more expensive. However, the blurriness that is so characteristic of ikat is often prized by textile collectors. Etymology [ edit ] Ikat is an Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesian_language) word, which depending on context, can be the nouns (/wiki/Noun) : cord (/wiki/Cord_(sewing)) , thread (/wiki/Yarn) , knot (/wiki/Knot) , or bundle, [2] (#cite_note-2) also the finished ikat fabric, as well as the verbs (/wiki/Verb) "to tie" or "to bind"; the term ikatan is a noun for bond or tie. [3] (#cite_note-3) It has a direct etymological relation to cognates in various Indonesian languages (/wiki/Languages_of_Indonesia) from Sumatra (/wiki/Sumatra) , Borneo (/wiki/Borneo) , Java (/wiki/Java) , Bali (/wiki/Bali) , Sulawesi (/wiki/Sulawesi) , Sumba (/wiki/Sumba) , Flores (/wiki/Flores) and Timor (/wiki/Timor) . Thus, the name of the finished ikat woven fabric originates from the tali (threads, ropes) being ikat (tied, bound, knotted) before they are being put in celupan (dyed by way of dipping), then berjalin (woven, intertwined) resulting in a berjalin ikat - reduced to ikat . The introduction of the term ikat into European language is attributed to Rouffaer. [4] (#cite_note-4) Ikat is now a generic English loanword used to describe the process and the cloth itself regardless of where the fabric was produced or how it is patterned. In Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesian_language) , the plural of ikat remains ikat . While in English, a suffix plural 's' is commonly added, as in ikats . However, these terms are interchangeable and both are correct. History [ edit ] See also: Resist dyeing (/wiki/Resist_dyeing) The Banton Burial Cloth (c. 1200-1400 AD), the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) at the National Museum of the Philippines (/wiki/National_Museum_of_the_Philippines) ). The cloth was found in the sacred Ipot cave of Romblon (/wiki/Romblon) , Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) . It is made from abacá (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1) , [5] (#cite_note-ocampo-5) a species of endemic banana. Warp ikat traditions in Southeast Asia are believed to have originated in Neolithic (/wiki/Neolithic) weaving traditions (older than at least 6000 BP (/wiki/Before_Present) ) somewhere in mainland Asia, and is associated with the Austronesian (/wiki/Austronesian_peoples) and Daic (/wiki/Daic) -speaking peoples. This is based on a 2012 comparative study on loom technologies, textile patterns, and linguistics. It was spread outwards along with the Austronesian expansion (/wiki/Austronesian_expansion) to maritime Southeast Asia (/wiki/Maritime_Southeast_Asia) , reaching as far as Madagascar (/wiki/Madagascar) by the 1st millennium BC. [1] (#cite_note-Buckley-1) [6] (#cite_note-taa-6) Previously, ikat traditions were suggested by some authors to be originally acquired by Austronesians from contact with the Dong Son culture (/wiki/Dong_Son_culture) of Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnam) , but this was deemed unlikely in a 2012 study. [1] (#cite_note-Buckley-1) Elsewhere, particularly in India (/wiki/India) and Central Asia (/wiki/Central_Asia) , very similar traditions have also developed that are also known as " ikat ". These likely developed independently. [1] (#cite_note-Buckley-1) [7] (#cite_note-7) Uyghurs (/wiki/Uyghurs) call it atlas ( IPA (/wiki/International_Phonetic_Alphabet) [ɛtlɛs]) and use it only for woman's clothing. The historical record indicates that there were 27 types of atlas during Qing Chinese (/wiki/Qing_dynasty) occupation. Now there are only four types of Uyghur atlas remaining: qara-atlas , a black ikat used for older women's clothing; khoja (/wiki/Khoja) 'e-atlas , a yellow, blue, or purple ikat used for married women; qizil-atlas , a red ikat used for girls; and Yarkent (/wiki/Yarkant_County) -atlas , a khan (/wiki/Khan_(title)) or royal atlas. Yarkent-atlas has more diverse styles; during the Yarkent Khanate (/wiki/Yarkent_Khanate) (1514–1705), there were ten different styles of Yarkent-atlas. [8] (#cite_note-8) Types [ edit ] Detail of a classic Gujarati patola of double ikat from the early 19th century. LACMA (/wiki/LACMA) textile collections. In warp ikat it is only the warp yarns that are dyed using the ikat technique. The weft yarns are dyed a solid colour. The ikat pattern is clearly visible in the warp yarns wound onto the loom even before the weft is woven in. Warp ikat is, amongst others, produced in Indonesia; more specifically in Kalimantan (/wiki/Kalimantan) , Sulawesi (/wiki/Sulawesi) , and Sumatra (/wiki/Sumatra) by respectively the Dayaks (/wiki/Dayak_people) , Torajans (/wiki/Torajan) and Bataks (/wiki/Batak) . [9] (#cite_note-9) [ full citation needed ] In weft ikat it is the weaving of weft yarn that carries the dyed patterns. Therefore, the pattern only appears as the weaving proceeds. Weft ikat s are much slower to weave than warp ikat because the weft yarns must be carefully adjusted after each passing of the shuttle to maintain the clarity of the design. Double ikat is a technique in which both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to weaving. Obviously it is the most difficult to make and the most expensive. Double ikat is only produced in three countries: India, Japan and Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) . The double ikat made in Patan, Gujarat (/wiki/Patan,_Gujarat) in India is the most complicated. Called "patola", it is made using fine silk (/wiki/Silk) yarns and many colours. It may be patterned with a small motif that is repeated many times across the length of a six-meter sari. Sometimes the Patan double ikat is pictorial with no repeats across its length. That is, each small design element in each colour was individually tied in the warp and weft yarns. It's an extraordinary achievement in the textile arts. These much sought after textiles were traded by the Dutch East Indies company for exclusive spice trading rights with the sultanates of Indonesia. The double ikat woven in the small Bali Aga (/wiki/Bali_Aga) village, Tenganan (/wiki/Tenganan) in east Bali [10] (#cite_note-hauser117-10) in Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) reflects the influence of these prized textiles. Some of the Tenganan double ikat motifs are taken directly from the patola tradition. In India, double ikat is also woven in Puttapaka, Nalgonda district (/wiki/Nalgonda_district) , and is called Puttapaka Saree (/wiki/Puttapaka_Saree) . [11] (#cite_note-aponline-11) In Japan, double ikat is woven in the Okinawa islands where it is called tate-yoko gasuri . [12] (#cite_note-Tomito7-12) Distribution [ edit ] A child wearing an ikat robe, Samarkand 19th century. Children often wore small versions of adult clothing. [13] (#cite_note-13) Ikat is a resist dyeing technique common to many world cultures. It is probably one of the oldest forms of textile decoration. However, it is most prevalent in Indonesia, India (/wiki/India) and Japan (/wiki/Japan) . In South America (/wiki/South_America) , Central (/wiki/Central_America) and North America (/wiki/North_America) , ikat is still common in Argentina (/wiki/Argentina) , Bolivia (/wiki/Bolivia) , Ecuador (/wiki/Ecuador) , Guatemala (/wiki/Guatemala) and Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) , respectively. In the 19th century, the Silk Road (/wiki/Silk_Road) desert oases of Bukhara (/wiki/Bukhara) , Samarkand (/wiki/Samarkand) , Hotan (/wiki/Hotan) and Kashgar (/wiki/Kashgar) (in what is now Uzbekistan (/wiki/Uzbekistan) and Xinjiang (/wiki/Xinjiang) in Central Asia (/wiki/Central_Asia) ) were famous for their fine silk Uzbek/ Uyghur (/wiki/Uyghurs) ikat . India, Japan, Indonesia and many other Southeast Asian (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) nations including Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) , Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar) , Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) and Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) have weaving cultures with long histories of ikat resist dyeing. Double ikat textiles are still found in India, Japan and Indonesia. In Indonesia, ikat textiles are produced throughout the islands from Sumatra in the west to Timor in the east and Kalimantan and Sulawesi in the north. Ikat is also found in Iran, where the Persian name is daraee . Daraee means wealth, and this fabric is often included in a bride's dowry during wedding ceremonies; the people who bought these fabrics were rich. Production [ edit ] Warp ikat [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Ikat) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( May 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Young woman from Kambera, Sumba, wearing an ikat garment and with the warp for a cloth tied and ready for dying. 1931 A tricolor warp ikat weave from Tenancingo (/wiki/Tenancingo,_State_of_Mexico) , Mexico Ikat created by dyeing (/wiki/Dye) the warps (warp ikat ) is simpler to make than either weft ikat or double ikat . First the yarns-- cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , silk (/wiki/Silk) , wool (/wiki/Wool) or other fibres—are wound onto a tying frame. Then they are separated into bundles. As the binding process is very labor-intensive an effort is made to reduce the work to a minimum by folding the thread bundles like in paper dolls and binding a basic ikat motif (BIM) that will be repeated like in paper dolls when the threads are unfolded for weaving after the dyeing is completed. The thread bundles may be folded around a vertical and/or horizontal axis. The bundles may be covered with wax, as in batik (/wiki/Batik) . (However, in making batik, the crafts person applies the resist to the finished cloth rather than to the yarns to be woven.) The warp yarns are then wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material with the desired pattern so as to prevent unwanted dye penetration. The procedure is repeated, according to the number of colours required to complete the design. Multiple coloration is common, requiring multiple rounds of tying and dyeing. After the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are wound onto the loom as the warp (longitudinal yarns). The threads are adjusted to precisely align the motifs and thin bamboo strips are lashed to the threads to prevent them from tangling or slipping out of alignment during weaving. Some ikat traditions, such as Central Asia's, embrace a blurred aesthetic in the design. Other traditions favour a more precise and more difficult to achieve alignment of the ikat yarns. South American and Indonesian ikat are known for a high degree of warp alignment. Weavers carefully adjust the warp threads when they are placed on the loom so the patterns appear clearly. Thin strips of bamboo are then lashed to the warps to maintain the pattern alignment during weaving. Patterns are visible in the warp threads even before the weft, a plain colored thread, is woven in. Some warp ikat traditions are designed with vertical-axis symmetry or have a "mirror-image" running along their long centre line. That is, whatever pattern or design is woven on the right is duplicated on the left in reverse order about a central warp thread group. Patterns can be created in the vertical, horizontal or diagonal. Weft ikat [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Ikat) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( May 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Weft ikat ( endek (/wiki/Balinese_textiles#Endek) in Bali) uses resist-dyeing for the weft (/wiki/Warp_and_weft) yarns. The movement of the weft yarns in the weaving process means precisely delineated patterns are more difficult to achieve. The weft yarn must be adjusted after each passing of the shuttle to preserve the clarity of the patterns. Nevertheless, highly skilled artisans can produce precise weft ikat . Japanese weavers produce very accurate indigo and white weft ikat with small scale motifs in cotton. Weavers in Odisha (/wiki/Odisha) , India have replicated fine patterns in weft ikat . In Thailand, weavers make silk sarongs depicting birds and complex geometrical designs in seven-colour weft ikat . In some precise weft ikat traditions (Gujarat, India), two artisans weave the cloth: one passes the shuttle and the other adjusts the way the yarn lies in the shed. As the weft is a continuous strand, aberrations or variations in the weaving tension are cumulative. Some weft ikat traditions incorporate this affect into their aesthetic. Patterns become transformed by the weaving process into irregular and erratic designs. Guatemalan ikat is well-noted for its beautiful "blurs." Double ikat [ edit ] Further information: Patola sari (/wiki/Patola_sari) A double ikat weaving from Sulu (/wiki/Sulu) , Philippines, made of abacá (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1) (banana leaf stalk) fiber. Double ikat is created by resist-dyeing both the warp and weft prior to weaving. [14] (#cite_note-14) Some sources use the term double ikat only when the warp and weft patterning overlap to form common, identical motifs. If they do not, the result is referred to as compound ikat . [15] (#cite_note-15) This form of weaving requires the most skill for precise patterns to be woven and is considered the premiere form of ikat . The amount of labour and skill required also make it the most expensive, and many poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets. Indian and Indonesian examples typify highly precise double ikat . Especially prized are the double ikat s woven in silk known in India as patola (singular: patolu ). These are from Khambat (/wiki/Khambat) , Gujarat. During the colonial era, Dutch merchants used patola (/wiki/Patola_sari) as prestigious trade cloths during the peak of the spice trade. [16] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHauser-SchaublinNabhollz-kartaschoffRamseyer1991-16) In Indonesia, double ikat is only woven in the Bali Aga (/wiki/Bali_Aga) village of Tenganan (/wiki/Tenganan) . These cloths have high spiritual significance. In Tenganan they are still worn for specific ceremonies. Outside Tenganan, geringsing (/wiki/Geringsing) are treasured as they are purported to have magical powers. [10] (#cite_note-hauser117-10) The double ikat of Japan is woven in the Okinawa islands and is called tate-yoko gasuri (/wiki/Kasuri) . [12] (#cite_note-Tomito7-12) Indian textile artists demonstrate double ikat patola (/wiki/Patola_sari) weaving. Odisha (/wiki/Odisha_Ikat) double ikat Sambalpuri sari (/wiki/Sambalpuri_sari) , India Pochampally Saree (/wiki/Pochampally_Saree) , a variety from the small village of Andhra Pradesh in Nalgonda district, India, are silk saris woven in the double ikat . [11] (#cite_note-aponline-11) The Puttapaka Saree (/wiki/Puttapaka_Saree) [17] (#cite_note-indiaheritage-17) is made in Puttapaka village, Samsthan Narayanpuram mandal in Nalgonda district, India. It is known for its unique style of silk saris. The symmetric design is over 200 years old. The ikat is warp-based. The Puttapaka Saree is a double ikat . Before the weaving is done, a manual winding of yarn, called asu , needs to be performed. This process takes up to five hours per sari and is usually done by the womenfolk, who suffer physical strain through constantly moving their hands back and forth over 9000 times for each sari. In 1999 a young weaver, C. Mallesham, developed a machine which automated asu , thus developing a technological solution for a decades-old problem. [18] (#cite_note-18) Ōshima [ edit ] Ōshima ikat is a uniquely Japanese ikat . In Amami Ōshima (/wiki/Amami_%C5%8Cshima) , the warp and weft threads are both used as warp to weave stiff fabric, upon which the thread for the ikat weaving is spot-dyed. Then the mats are unravelled and the dyed thread is woven into Ōshima cloth. [ citation needed ] The Ōshima process is duplicated in Java and Bali, and was reserved for ruling royalty, notably Klungkung and Ubud : most especially the dodot cloth semi- cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) of Javanese court attire. [ citation needed ] Other countries [ edit ] Ikat abr , silk and cotton, mid-19th century, Uzbekistan (/wiki/Uzbekistan) . Smithsonian (/wiki/Smithsonian) collections. Cambodia [ edit ] The Cambodian (/wiki/Cambodia) ikat is a weft ikat woven of silk on a multi-shaft loom with an uneven twill (/wiki/Twill) weave, which results in the weft threads showing more prominently on the front of the fabric than the back. [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) By the 19th century, Cambodian ikat was considered among the finest textiles of the world. When the King of Thailand came to the USA in 1856, he brought fine Cambodian ikat cloth as a gift for President Franklin Pierce (/wiki/Franklin_Pierce) . [21] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEGittingerLefforts1992149._167-21) The most intricately patterned of the Cambodian fabrics are the sampot hol — skirts worn by the women — and the pidans — wall hangings used to decorate the pagoda or the home for special ceremonies. Unfortunately, Cambodian culture suffered massive disruption and destruction during the mid-20th century Indochina wars but most especially during the Khmer Rouge (/wiki/Khmer_Rouge) regime. Most weavers were killed and the whole art of Cambodian ikat was in danger of disappearing. Kikuo Morimoto [22] (#cite_note-22) is a prominent pioneer in re-introducing ikat to Cambodia. In 1995, he moved from Japan and located one or two elderly weavers and Khmer Rouge survivors who knew the art and have taught it to a new generation. Thailand [ edit ] In Thailand, the local weft ikat type of woven cloth is known as matmi (also spelled 'mudmee' or 'mudmi'). [23] (#cite_note-23) Traditional Mudmi cloth was woven for daily use among the nobility. Other uses included ceremonial costumes. Warp ikat in cotton is also produced by the Karen and Lawa tribal peoples in northern Thailand. This type of cloth is the favourite silk item woven by Khmer people (/wiki/Khmer_people) living in southern Isan (/wiki/Isan) , mainly in Surin (/wiki/Surin_Province) , Sisaket (/wiki/Sisaket_Province) and Buriram (/wiki/Buriram_Province) provinces. [24] (#cite_note-24) Iran [ edit ] Ikat making in Yazd (/wiki/Yazd) , Iran (/wiki/Iran) In Iran, ikat , known by the name darayee , has been woven in different areas. In Yazd (/wiki/Yazd) , there are some workshops that produce it. It is said that this kind of cloth historically used to be included in a bride's dowry. In popular culture, a quote states that people who bought this type of cloth were wealthy. [25] (#cite_note-25) Latin America [ edit ] Artisan-made purses and shoes with ikat dyed fabric for sale in Malinalco (/wiki/Malinalco) , EdoMex (/wiki/State_of_Mexico) , Mexico. The rapacejos (fringes) seen on the bottom right purse are characteristic of rebozos and can be quite intricately woven. A young woman in Guatemala in the Highlands, wearing ikat clothing Ikat patterns are common among the Andes (/wiki/Andes) peoples, and native people of Argentina (/wiki/Argentina) , Bolivia (/wiki/Bolivia) , Brazil, Chile (/wiki/Chile) , Colombia (/wiki/Colombia) , Ecuador (/wiki/Ecuador) , Guatemala (/wiki/Guatemala) , Mexico, Peru (/wiki/Peru) , and Venezuela (/wiki/Venezuela) . The Mapuche (/wiki/Mapuche) shawl or poncho of the Huaso (/wiki/Huaso) cowboys of Chile is perhaps the item best known in the West. Wool and cabuya (/wiki/Fique) fibre are the most commonly used. The Mexican rebozos (/wiki/Rebozo) can be made from silk, wool or cotton and are frequently ikat dyed. These shawls are seen as a part of the Mexican national identity and most women own at least one. Latin American ikat (Jaspe, as it is known to Maya (/wiki/Maya_people) weavers) textiles are commonly woven on a back-strap loom (/wiki/Loom) . Pre-dyed warp (/wiki/Warp_(weaving)) threads are a common item in traditional markets- saving the weaver much mess, expense, time and labour. [26] (#cite_note-Waddington-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) A Latin American innovation which may also be employed elsewhere is to employ a round stick around which warp threads are wrapped in groups, thus allowing more precise control of the desired design. [26] (#cite_note-Waddington-26) The "corte" is the typical wrap-skirt used worn by Guatemalan women. India [ edit ] In India (/wiki/India) , Ikat art has been present for thousands of years. In some parts of India, ikat processed cloth such as saree and kurtis are very popular, along with bedsheets, door screens, and towels. [ citation needed ] Uzbekistan [ edit ] Ikat is a common weaving technique in Uzbek (/wiki/Uzbekistan) culture. The Uzbek ikat , locally referred to as abrbandi (https://uz.wikipedia.org/wiki/abrbandi) , is distinguished by its bold and flamboyant patterns. The history of the Uzbek ikat dates back to the 19th century, when it was mastered by the Uzbeks. Since then, it has become an integral part of their cultural identity and an important aspect of traditional clothing. [28] (#cite_note-28) Accreditation [ edit ] As of 2010, the government of the Republic of Indonesia announced it would pursue UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage accreditation for its ikat weaving, along with songket and gamelan (/wiki/Gamelan) , having successfully attained this UNESCO recognition for its wayang (/wiki/Wayang) , batik (/wiki/Batik) and the kris (/wiki/Keris) . [29] (#cite_note-29) See also [ edit ] Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Indonesia portal (/wiki/Portal:Indonesia) Batik (/wiki/Batik) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Tenun (/wiki/Tenun) T'nalak (/wiki/T%27nalak) Weaving (/wiki/Weaving) Odisha Ikat (/wiki/Odisha_Ikat) Balinese textiles (/wiki/Balinese_textiles) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d Buckley, Christopher D. (18 December 2012). "Investigating Cultural Evolution Using Phylogenetic Analysis: The Origins and Descent of the Southeast Asian Tradition of Warp Ikat Weaving" (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3525544) . PLOS ONE . 7 (12): e52064. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 2012PLoSO...752064B (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2012PLoSO...752064B) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1371/journal.pone.0052064 (https://doi.org/10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0052064) . PMC (/wiki/PMC_(identifier)) 3525544 (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3525544) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 23272211 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23272211) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "ikat | translate Indonesian to English: Cambridge Dictionary" (https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/indonesian-english/ikat) . dictionary.cambridge.org . Retrieved 4 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "ikatan | translate Indonesian to English: Cambridge Dictionary" (https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/indonesian-english/ikatan) . dictionary.cambridge.org . Retrieved 4 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Umesh Charan Patnaik; Aswini Kumar Mishra (1997). Handloom industry in action . M.D. Publications. p. 38. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9788175330375 . Ghosh & Ghosh 2000 (#CITEREFGhoshGhosh2000) ^ (#cite_ref-ocampo_5-0) Ocampo, Ambeth R. (19 October 2011). "History and design in Death Blankets" (https://opinion.inquirer.net/15599/history-and-design-in-death-blankets) . Inquirer . Retrieved 2 June 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-taa_6-0) "Ikat History" (http://www.textileasart.com/Ikat-1250.htm) . textileasart.com . Retrieved 2 June 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Ruth Barnes. "Ikat" (http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/ikat) . fashion-history.lovetoknow.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161114231155/http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/ikat) from the original on 14 November 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Abdukerim Raxman; Reweydulla Hemdulla; Sherip Xushtar (1996). Uyghur Örp-Adetliri [ Uyghur customs and traditions ]. Ürümqi (/wiki/%C3%9Cr%C3%BCmqi) : Shinjang Yashlar Ösümler Neshriyati. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Michael Möbius; Annette Ster (1998). Bali, Java, Lombok selbst entdecken [ Discover Bali, Java, Lombik by yourself ]. Regenbogen-Verlag. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3858620858 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hauser-Schaublin, Brigitta; Nabhollz-kartaschoff, Marie-Louise; Ramseyer, Urs (1991). Balinese Textiles . London: British Museum Press. p. 117. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7141-2505-9 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 246736925 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/246736925) . ^ Jump up to: a b "History and Culture-Arts and Crafts – (https://web.archive.org/web/20140119164655/http://www.aponline.gov.in/Quick%20links/HIST-CULT/arts_ikat.html) Ikat " (https://web.archive.org/web/20140119164655/http://www.aponline.gov.in/Quick%20links/HIST-CULT/arts_ikat.html) . aponline.gov.in . Government of Andhra Pradesh. Archived from the original (http://www.aponline.gov.in/quick%20links/hist-cult/arts_ikat.html) on 19 January 2014 . Retrieved 30 August 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Tomito, Jun; Kasuri, Noriko (1982). Japanese Ikat Weaving: The Techniques of Kasuri . Routledge & Kegan Paul. p. 7. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7100-9043-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Dress Codes: Revealing the Jewish Wardrobe" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140703023916/http://www.imj.org.il/exhibitions/2014/dresscodes/en/child.html) . imj.org.il . Archived from the original (http://www.imj.org.il/exhibitions/2014/dresscodes/en/child.html) on 3 July 2014 . Retrieved 6 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Guy, John (2009). Woven cargoes : Indian Textiles in the East (1st publication 1998). London: Thames & Hudson. pp. 10, 24. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0500018634 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 40595374 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/40595374) . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Larsen, Jack Lenor (1976). The Dyer's Art ikat, batik, plangi . New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold. p. 129. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0442246854 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHauser-SchaublinNabhollz-kartaschoffRamseyer1991_16-0) Hauser-Schaublin, Nabhollz-kartaschoff & Ramseyer 1991 (#CITEREFHauser-SchaublinNabhollz-kartaschoffRamseyer1991) . ^ (#cite_ref-indiaheritage_17-0) "Textiles" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130704143231/http://www.indiaheritage.org/creative/craft/textiles.htm) . indiaheritage.org . Archived from the original (http://www.indiaheritage.org/creative/craft/textiles.htm) on 4 July 2013 . Retrieved 30 August 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Asu machine to aid weavers of tie and dye sarees" (https://www.business-standard.com/article/economy-policy/asu-machine-to-aid-weavers-of-tie-and-dye-sarees-108120201020_1.html) . 29 January 2013 . Retrieved 6 June 2024 . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20121011174029/http://www.business-standard.com/india/news/asu-machine-to-aid-weaverstiedye-sarees/341893/) 11 October 2012 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-19) Gittinger, Mattiebelle; Lefforts, H. Leedom (1992). Textiles and the Thai Experience in South-East Asia . Washington, DC: Textile Museum. pp. 38–39. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780874050318 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Green, Gill. "The Cambodia Weaving Tradition: Little Known Weaving and Loom Artifacts". Arts of Asia . 27 (5): 86–87. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEGittingerLefforts1992149._167_21-0) Gittinger & Lefforts 1992 (#CITEREFGittingerLefforts1992) , p. 149. 167. ^ (#cite_ref-22) Taguchi, Emily. "Cambodia: The Silk Grandmothers" (https://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/rough/2007/06/cambodia_the_siint.html) . pbs.org . Public Broadcasting Service (PBS) (/wiki/PBS) . Retrieved 13 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Silk at Ban Sawai (http://www.surin.go.th/web_eng/web_eng/silk.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110719102131/http://www.surin.go.th/web_eng/web_eng/silk.htm) 19 July 2011 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-24) Chusak Sukaranandana. "หัตถกรรมวิจิตรของกลุ่มชาติพันธุ์ ไท-ลาว-เขมร ในประเทศไทย" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110818070110/http://icmr.cru.in.th/journal/133255110254.pdf) [Woven cloth, an exquisite handicraft of Thai-Lao-Khmer ethnic groups in Thailand] (PDF) . icmr.cru.in.th (in Thai). Archived from the original (http://icmr.cru.in.th/journal/133255110254.pdf) (PDF) on 18 August 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-25) "دارایی، بافتهای از ابریشم و رنگ" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180208045845/http://donya-e-eqtesad.com/%D8%A8%D8%AE%D8%B4-%D8%A8%DB%8C%D8%B4%D8%AA%D8%B1-26/472405-%D8%AF%D8%A7%D8%B1%D8%A7%DB%8C%DB%8C-%D8%A8%D8%A7%D9%81%D8%AA%D9%87-%D8%A7%DB%8C-%D8%A7%D8%B2-%D8%A7%D8%A8%D8%B1%DB%8C%D8%B4%D9%85-%D8%B1%D9%86%DA%AF) . donya-e-eqtesad.com . Archived from the original (http://donya-e-eqtesad.com/بخش-بیشتر-26/472405-دارایی-بافته-ای-از-ابریشم-رنگ) on 8 February 2018. ^ Jump up to: a b Waddington, Laverne (3 May 2010). "Backstrap weaving-cross knit looping tutorial and ikat" (https://backstrapweaving.wordpress.com/2010/03/05/backstrap-weaving-cross-knit-looping-tutorial-and-ikat/) . backstrapweaving.wordpress.com . Retrieved 3 May 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Central Asian Ikats from the Rau Collection" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071114165101/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/asia/Ikat/index.html) . Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) . Archived from the original (http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/asia/Ikat/index.html) on 14 November 2007 . Retrieved 13 November 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "The Origins and Cultural Significance of Ikat" (https://alesouk.com/single-ikat-or-double-ikat/) . Alesouk . 28 June 2023 . Retrieved 13 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Batik, Wayang, Keris: Jadi Warisan Budaya Dunia" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100523121325/http://www.antaranews.com/berita/1265353577/batik-wayang-keris-jadi-warisan-budaya-dunia) . Antara News Indonesia (/wiki/Antara_(news_agency)) (in Indonesian). 5 February 2010. Archived from the original (http://www.antaranews.com/berita/1265353577/batik-wayang-keris-jadi-warisan-budaya-dunia) on 23 May 2010 . Retrieved 3 May 2010 . Further reading [ edit ] Gillow, John; Dawson, Barry (1995). Traditional Indonesian Textiles . Thames and Hudson. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-500-27820-2 . Ghosh, G. K.; Ghosh, Shukla (2000). Ikat textiles of India . APH Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9788176481670 . Gibbon, Kate Fitz; Hale, Andrew (1997). Ikat: Silks of Central Asia : the Guido Goldman Collection . Laurence King. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781856691017 . Rogers, Susan; Carey, Hana; Giglio, Patricia; Walters, Martha (2013). Transnational Ikat: An Asian Textile on the Move (Exhibit Catalog, Cantor Art Gallery). External links [ edit ] "Ikat from the University of Washington Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture" (https://web.archive.org/web/20101114003319/http://www.washington.edu/burkemuseum/satextiles/indoindex.html) . washington.edu/burkemuseum . Archived from the original (http://www.washington.edu/burkemuseum/satextiles/indoindex.html) on 14 November 2010. Wikimedia Commons has media related to Ikat (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ikat) . Art of Ikat (https://www.europeana.eu/portal/search?q=Ikat%2C+) at Europeana (/wiki/Europeana) . Retrieved February 2012 "a weaving site that teaches you (https://web.archive.org/web/20061021160654/http://www.allfiberarts.com/library/aa97/aa100397.htm) about ikat" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061021160654/http://www.allfiberarts.com/library/aa97/aa100397.htm) . allfiberarts.com . Archived from the original (http://www.allfiberarts.com/library/aa97/aa100397.htm) on 21 October 2006. "Making ikat cloth" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/album-with-nested-carousel18/) . Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) . Retrieved 13 November 2007 . "The Extraordinary Ikat" (https://web.archive.org/web/20050205024812/http://www.artxchange.org/news2003sept/page2.asp) – The newsletter of ArtXchange (Summer/Autumn 2003) from Internet Archive (/wiki/Internet_Archive) "South American Ikat" (http://backstrapweaving.wordpress.com/2010/03/05/backstrap-weaving-cross-knit-looping-tutorial-and-ikat) . South America . Waddington (/wiki/Waddingtons) . 5 March 2010 . Retrieved 3 May 2010 . "Ikat techniques adapted for surfwear" (http://www.nma.gov.au/exhibitions/australian_journeys/gallery_highlights?result_6095_result_page=7#thumbnail38) . nma.gov.au . 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Cordovan hat (/wiki/Cordovan_hat) Sombrero de catite (/wiki/Sombrero_de_catite) Mantilla (/wiki/Mantilla) Italy Ciocia (/wiki/Ciocia) Coppola cap (/wiki/Coppola_cap) Scandinavian Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) Iceland (/wiki/Icelandic_national_costume) Sweden (/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#Folk_costuming) Nationella dräkten (/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten) Bäckadräkten (/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten) Sverigedräkten (/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1) South America Aguayo (/wiki/Aguayo_(cloth)) Chile Chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) Chilote cap (/wiki/Chilote_cap) Chilote poncho (/wiki/Chilote_poncho) Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) Liqui liqui (/wiki/Liqui_liqui) Lliklla (/wiki/Lliklla) Panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Ruana (/wiki/Ruana) North America Inuit skin clothing (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Tignon (/wiki/Tignon) Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) Western wear (/wiki/Western_wear) Bolo tie (/wiki/Bolo_tie) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) Mexico Huarache (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) Mexican pointy boots (/wiki/Mexican_pointy_boots) Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) Serape (/wiki/Serape) Sombrero (/wiki/Sombrero) Quechquemitl (/wiki/Quechquemitl) Oceania Grass skirt (/wiki/Grass_skirt) Feather cloak (/wiki/Feather_cloak) I-sala (/wiki/I-sala) Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) Lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) Kiekie (/wiki/Kiekie_(clothing)) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Sulu (/wiki/Sulu_(skirt)) Taʻovala (/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala) Tēfui (/wiki/T%C4%93fui) Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) v t e Dyeing (/wiki/Dyeing) Techniques Batik (/wiki/Batik) Dyeing (/wiki/Dyeing) Ikat Kasuri (/wiki/Kasuri) Kalamkari (/wiki/Kalamkari) Katazome (/wiki/Katazome) Leheria (/wiki/Leheria) Mordant (/wiki/Mordant) Reactive dye printing (/wiki/Reactive_dye_printing) Resist (/wiki/Resist_dyeing) Ring dyeing (/wiki/Ring_dyeing) Rōketsuzome (/wiki/R%C5%8Dketsuzome) Shibori (/wiki/Shibori) Tie-dye (/wiki/Tie-dye) Tsutsugaki (/wiki/Tsutsugaki) Yūzen (/wiki/Y%C5%ABzen) Types of dyes Dyes (/wiki/Dye) Natural (/wiki/Natural_dye) Acid (/wiki/Acid_dye) Reactive (/wiki/Reactive_dye) Solvent (/wiki/Solvent_dye) Substantive (/wiki/Substantive_dye) Sulfur (/wiki/Sulfur_dye) Vat (/wiki/Vat_dye) Disperse (/wiki/Disperse_dye) Discharge (/wiki/Discharge_printing) Pigment (/wiki/Pigment) Traditional textile dyes Armenian cochineal (/wiki/Armenian_cochineal) Black walnut (/wiki/Juglans_nigra) Bloodroot (/wiki/Sanguinaria) Brazilin (/wiki/Brazilin) Cochineal (/wiki/Cochineal#Dye) Cudbear (/wiki/Orcein) Cutch (/wiki/Catechu) Dyewoods (/wiki/Dyewoods) Fustic (/wiki/Maclura_tinctoria) Gamboge (/wiki/Gamboge) Dyer's broom (/wiki/Genista_tinctoria) Henna (/wiki/Henna) Indigo (/wiki/Indigo_dye) Kermes (/wiki/Kermes_(dye)) Logwood (/wiki/Haematoxylum_campechianum) Madder (/wiki/Rubia) Polish cochineal (/wiki/Polish_cochineal) Saffron (/wiki/Saffron) Turmeric (/wiki/Turmeric#Dye) Tyrian purple (/wiki/Tyrian_purple) Weld (/wiki/Reseda_(plant)) Woad (/wiki/Isatis_tinctoria) History Use of saffron (/wiki/Trade_and_use_of_saffron) Traditional dyes of the Scottish Highlands (/wiki/Traditional_dyes_of_the_Scottish_Highlands) Craft dyes Dylon (/wiki/Dylon) Inkodye (/wiki/Lumi_(company)) Procion (/wiki/Procion) Rit (/wiki/Rit_(dye)) Reference Glossary of dyeing terms (/wiki/Glossary_of_dyeing_terms) List of dyes (/wiki/List_of_dyes) v t e Islamic art (/wiki/Islamic_art) Architecture (/wiki/Islamic_architecture) Regional styles Abbasid (/wiki/Abbasid_architecture) Ayyubid (/wiki/Ayyubid_dynasty#Architecture) Anatolian Seljuk (/wiki/Anatolian_Seljuk_architecture) Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_Islamic_architecture) Fatimid (/wiki/Fatimid_architecture) Great Seljuk (/wiki/Great_Seljuk_architecture) Hausa (/wiki/Hausa_architecture) Indo-Islamic (/wiki/Indo-Islamic_architecture) Bengali (/wiki/Bengali_Muslim_architecture) Deccan (/wiki/Architecture_of_the_Deccan_sultanates) Mughal (/wiki/Mughal_architecture) Indonesian (/wiki/Mosque_architecture_in_Indonesia) / Malaysian (/wiki/Islamic_architecture#Malaysia) Iranian (/wiki/Iranian_architecture) Mamluk (/wiki/Mamluk_architecture) Moorish (/wiki/Moorish_architecture) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_architecture) Sudano-Sahelian (/wiki/Sudano-Sahelian_architecture) Swahili (/wiki/Swahili_architecture) Tatar (/wiki/Tatar_mosque) Timurid (/wiki/Timurid_architecture) Umayyad (/wiki/Umayyad_architecture) Yemeni (/wiki/Architecture_of_Yemen#Islamic_period) Elements (/wiki/Category:Islamic_architectural_elements) Ablaq (/wiki/Ablaq) Banna'i (/wiki/Banna%27i) Iwan (/wiki/Iwan) Jali (/wiki/Jali) Mashrabiya (/wiki/Mashrabiya) Mihrab (/wiki/Mihrab) Minaret (/wiki/Minaret) Mocárabe (/wiki/Moc%C3%A1rabe) Muqarnas (/wiki/Muqarnas) Sitara (/wiki/Sitara_(textile)) Stucco decoration (/wiki/Stucco_decoration_in_Islamic_architecture) See also Decoration Arts Regional styles Bangladeshi (/wiki/Bangladeshi_art) Persian (/wiki/Persian_art) ( Early (/wiki/Persian_art#Early_Islamic_period) , Qajar (/wiki/Qajar_art) , Safavid (/wiki/Safavid_art) ) Turkish (/wiki/Turkish_art) ( Ottoman (/wiki/Culture_of_the_Ottoman_Empire#Decorative_arts) ) Carpets (/wiki/Oriental_rug) Gul (/wiki/Gul_(design)) Kilim (/wiki/Kilim) Motifs (/wiki/Kilim_motifs) Persian (/wiki/Persian_carpet) Turkish (/wiki/Turkish_carpet) Prayer (/wiki/Prayer_rug) Pottery (/wiki/Islamic_pottery) Fritware (/wiki/Fritware) Hispano-Moresque (/wiki/Hispano-Moresque_ware) İznik (/wiki/%C4%B0znik_pottery) Lustreware (/wiki/Islamic_lustreware) Mina'i ware (/wiki/Mina%27i_ware) Persian (/wiki/Persian_pottery) Chinese influence (/wiki/Chinese_influences_on_Islamic_pottery) Textiles Batik (/wiki/Batik) Damask (/wiki/Damask) Ikat Embroidery (/wiki/Islamic_embroidery) Soumak (/wiki/Soumak) Suzani (/wiki/Suzani_(textile)) Woodwork Khatam (/wiki/Khatam) Minbar (/wiki/Minbar) Other media Music (/wiki/Islamic_music) Brass (/wiki/Islamic_art#Islamic_brasswork) Damascus steel (/wiki/Damascus_steel) Enamelled glass (/wiki/Enamelled_glass#Islamic) Glass (/wiki/Islamic_glass) Hardstone carving (/wiki/Hardstone_carving#Islamic_hardstone_carving) Ivory carving (/wiki/Ivory_carving#Islamic_ivory) Mosque lamp (/wiki/Mosque_lamp) Stained glass Shabaka (/wiki/Shabaka_(window)) Arts of the book Miniatures (/wiki/Islamic_miniature) Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_miniature) Mughal (/wiki/Mughal_painting) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_miniature) Persian (/wiki/Persian_miniature) Calligraphy (/wiki/Islamic_calligraphy) Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_calligraphy) Diwani (/wiki/Diwani) Indo-Muslim (/wiki/Indian_calligraphy) Kufic (/wiki/Kufic) Muhaqqaq (/wiki/Muhaqqaq) Naskh (/wiki/Naskh_(script)) Nastaʿlīq (/wiki/Nasta%CA%BFl%C4%ABq) Persian (/wiki/Persian_calligraphy) Sini (/wiki/Sini_(script)) Taʿlīq (/wiki/Ta%CA%BFl%C4%ABq) Thuluth (/wiki/Thuluth) Tughra (/wiki/Tughra) Other arts Muraqqa (/wiki/Muraqqa) Hilya (/wiki/Hilya) Ottoman illumination (/wiki/Ottoman_illumination) Decoration (/wiki/Islamic_ornament) Arabesque (/wiki/Arabesque) Geometric patterns (/wiki/Islamic_geometric_patterns) Girih (/wiki/Girih) ( tiles (/wiki/Girih_tiles) ) Zellij (/wiki/Zellij) See also Calligraphy The garden (/wiki/Islamic_garden) Charbagh (/wiki/Charbagh) Mughal (/wiki/Mughal_garden) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_gardens) Paradise (/wiki/Paradise_garden) Persian (/wiki/Persian_gardens) Museums, (/wiki/List_of_museums_of_Islamic_art) collections (/wiki/List_of_museums_of_Islamic_art) Berlin (/wiki/Museum_of_Islamic_Art,_Berlin) Cairo (/wiki/Museum_of_Islamic_Art,_Cairo) Doha (/wiki/Museum_of_Islamic_Art,_Doha) Ghazni (/wiki/Museum_of_Islamic_Art,_Ghazni) Istanbul ( Arts (/wiki/Turkish_and_Islamic_Arts_Museum) , Calligraphy Art (/wiki/Museum_of_Turkish_Calligraphy_Art) ) Jerusalem ( Islamic Museum (/wiki/Islamic_Museum,_Jerusalem) , L. A. Mayer Institute (/wiki/L._A._Mayer_Institute_for_Islamic_Art) ) Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Islamic_Arts_Museum_Malaysia) London ( British Museum (/wiki/British_Museum#Islamic_art) , V&A (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum#Islamic_art) , Khalili Collection (/wiki/Khalili_Collection_of_Islamic_Art) ) Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art#Islamic_art) Marrakech ( Museum (/wiki/Marrakech_Museum) , Majorelle Garden (/wiki/Majorelle_Garden) ) Melbourne (/wiki/Islamic_Museum_of_Australia) Paris ( Arab World Institute (/wiki/Arab_World_Institute) , Louvre (/wiki/Louvre#Islamic_art) ) Singapore (/wiki/Asian_Civilisations_Museum) Toronto (Aga Khan) (/wiki/Aga_Khan_Museum) Tripoli (/wiki/Islamic_Museum_of_Tripoli) Exhibitions Empire of the Sultans (/wiki/Empire_of_the_Sultans) Heaven on Earth: Art from Islamic Lands (/wiki/Heaven_on_Earth:_Art_from_Islamic_Lands) Hajj: Journey to the Heart of Islam (/wiki/Hajj:_Journey_to_the_Heart_of_Islam) Principles, influences Islamic Art: Mirror of the Invisible World (/wiki/Islamic_Art:_Mirror_of_the_Invisible_World) Aniconism in Islam (/wiki/Aniconism_in_Islam) Indo-Saracenic Revival (/wiki/Indo-Saracenic_Revival_architecture) Islamic world contributions to Medieval Europe (/wiki/Islamic_world_contributions_to_Medieval_Europe) Influences on Western art (/wiki/Islamic_influences_on_Western_art) Grotesque (/wiki/Grotesque) Moresque (/wiki/Moresque) Mathematics and architecture (/wiki/Mathematics_and_architecture) Moorish Revival (/wiki/Moorish_Revival_architecture) Mudéjar (/wiki/Mud%C3%A9jar) Oriental carpets in Renaissance painting (/wiki/Oriental_carpets_in_Renaissance_painting) Pseudo-Kufic (/wiki/Pseudo-Kufic) Stilfragen (/wiki/Stilfragen) Topkapı Scroll (/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Scroll) v t e Culture of Odisha (/wiki/Culture_of_Odisha) Dance Classical (/wiki/Indian_classical_dance) Gotipua (/wiki/Gotipua) Mahari (/wiki/Mahari_dance) Odissi (/wiki/Odissi) Folk (/wiki/Arts_of_Odisha) Bagha Nacha (/wiki/Bagha_Nacha) Chadheia (/w/index.php?title=Chadheia_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Chaiti ghoda (/wiki/Chaiti_ghoda) Chhau (/wiki/Chhau_dance) Chutkuchuta (/w/index.php?title=Chutkuchuta_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Dalkhai (/wiki/Dalkhai) Danda Nata (/wiki/Danda_Nata) Dhan Koela (/w/index.php?title=Dhan_koela_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Dhuduki (/w/index.php?title=Dhuduki_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Ghumura (/wiki/Ghumura_Dance) Jhumar (/w/index.php?title=Jhumar_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Jodi sankha (/w/index.php?title=Jodi_sankha_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Karma (/wiki/Karma_Naach) Kandhei nacha (/w/index.php?title=Kandhei_nacha&action=edit&redlink=1) Kathi Kandhei (/w/index.php?title=Kathi_Kandhei_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Keisabadi (/wiki/Keisabadi) Nachni (/wiki/Nacn%C4%AB) Naga nrutya (/w/index.php?title=Naga_nrutya&action=edit&redlink=1) Pala (/w/index.php?title=Pala_(dance)&action=edit&redlink=1) Rasarkeli (/w/index.php?title=Rasarkeli_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Ranapa (/w/index.php?title=Ranapa_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Sambalpuri (/w/index.php?title=Sambalpuri_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Samprada (/w/index.php?title=Samprada_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Laudi nata (/w/index.php?title=Laudi_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Lankapodi (/w/index.php?title=Lankapodi&action=edit&redlink=1) Lila (/w/index.php?title=Lila_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Tamasa (/w/index.php?title=Tamasa_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Pasu nrutya (/w/index.php?title=Pasu_nrutya&action=edit&redlink=1) Patua (/w/index.php?title=Patua_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Sakhi Nata (/w/index.php?title=Sakhi_Nata&action=edit&redlink=1) Suanga (/w/index.php?title=Suanga&action=edit&redlink=1) Tribal Desia (/w/index.php?title=Desia_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Gadaba (/w/index.php?title=Gadaba_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Kandha (/w/index.php?title=Kandha_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Koya (/w/index.php?title=Koya_dane&action=edit&redlink=1) Onra (/w/index.php?title=Onra_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Paraja (/w/index.php?title=Paraja_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Saura (/w/index.php?title=Saura_dance&action=edit&redlink=1) Music (/wiki/Music_of_Odisha) Odissi (/wiki/Odissi_music) Khanjani (/wiki/Khanjani) Kendara (/w/index.php?title=Kendara_gita&action=edit&redlink=1) Dhumpa (/wiki/Dhumpa_sangita) Play, theatre and puppetry Play and theatre Bharata Lila (/wiki/Bharata_Lila) Dasakathia (/wiki/Dasakathia) Dhanu Jatra (/wiki/Dhanu_Jatra) Jatra (/wiki/Jatra_(Odisha)) Prahallada Nataka (/wiki/Prahallada_Nataka) Puppetry Ravana chhaya (/wiki/Ravana_chhaya) Sakhi kandhei (/wiki/Sakhi_kandhei) Wedding Odia Hindu wedding (/wiki/Odia_Hindu_wedding) Festivals (/wiki/Festivals_of_Odisha) Bali Jatra (/wiki/Bali_Jatra) Boita Bandana (/wiki/Boita_Bandana) Deepabali (/wiki/Diwali) Dola Jatra (/wiki/Dola_Yatra) Durga Puja (/wiki/Durga_Puja) Nuakhai (/wiki/Nuakhai) Gamha Purnima (/wiki/Raksha_Bandhan) Kumar Purnima (/wiki/Sharad_Purnima) Makar Sankranti (/wiki/Makar_Sankranti) Manabasa Gurubara (/wiki/Manabasa_Gurubara) Pana Sankranti (Maha Vishuba Sankranti) (/wiki/Pana_Sankranti) Pousha Purnima (/wiki/Pousha_Purnima) Prathamastami (/wiki/Prathamastami) Ratha Jatra (/wiki/Ratha_Yatra_(Puri)) Raja (/wiki/Raja_(festival)) Samba Dashami (/wiki/Samba_Dashami) Savitri Brata (/wiki/Savitri_Brata) Sitalsasthi (/wiki/Sitalsasthi) Snana Jatra (/wiki/Snana_Yatra) Martial arts Paika akhada (/wiki/Paika_akhada) Handlooms Baleswari bandha (/w/index.php?title=Baleswari_bandha&action=edit&redlink=1) Berhampuri (/wiki/Berhampur_Patta) Bomkai (Sonepuri) (/wiki/Bomkai_sari) Dhalapathar (/wiki/Dhalapathar_Parda_%26_Fabrics) Gopalpur Tussar (/wiki/Gopalpur_Tussar_Fabrics) Habaspuri (/wiki/Habaspuri_sari) Kotpad (/wiki/Kotpad_Handloom_fabrics) Ikat (/wiki/Odisha_Ikat) Pasapali (/wiki/Pasapali_sari) Sambalpuri (/wiki/Sambalpuri_sari) Arts and Handicrafts Arts Pattachitra (/wiki/Pattachitra) Jhoti chita (/wiki/Jhoti_chita) Saura painting (/wiki/Saura_painting) Idital (/wiki/Idital) Handicrafts Chandua (/wiki/Pipili_appliqu%C3%A9_work) Tarakasi (/wiki/Tarakasi) Ganjapa (/wiki/Ganjapa) Clay (/w/index.php?title=Clay_idols_of_Odisha&action=edit&redlink=1) Stoneworks (/wiki/Stone_carving_in_Odisha) Wooden crafts (/w/index.php?title=Wooden_crafts_of_Odisha&action=edit&redlink=1) Bronze & Bell metal works (/w/index.php?title=Bell_metal_%26_Bronze_works_of_Odisha&action=edit&redlink=1) Dhokra (/wiki/Dhokra) Architecture Kalinga architecture (/wiki/Kalinga_architecture) Deula (/wiki/Deula) Calendar ( Panjika (/wiki/Panjika) ) Odia calendar (/wiki/Odia_calendar) Anka year (/wiki/Anka_year) Category (/wiki/Category:Odia_culture) v t e Weaving (/wiki/Weaving) Weaves Basketweave (/wiki/Basketweave_(weaving)) Charvet (/wiki/Charvet_(fabric)) Coverlet (/wiki/Woven_coverlet) Dobby (/wiki/Dobby_(cloth)) Double weave (/wiki/Double_cloth) Even-weave (/wiki/Even-weave) Gabardine (/wiki/Gabardine) Lampas (/wiki/Lampas) Leno weave (/wiki/Leno_weave) Oxford (/wiki/Oxford_(cloth)) Pile weave (/wiki/Pile_weave) Piqué (/wiki/Piqu%C3%A9_(weaving)) Plain weave (/wiki/Plain_weave) Satin (/wiki/Satin) Shot (/wiki/Shot_silk) Swivel (/wiki/Swivel_weave) Twill (/wiki/Twill) Components Textiles (/wiki/Textile) Warp and weft (/wiki/Warp_and_weft) Yarn (/wiki/Yarn) Tools and techniques Barber-Colman knotter (/wiki/Barber-Colman_knotter) Beamer (/wiki/Beamer_(occupation)) Braid (/wiki/Braid) Chilkat weaving (/wiki/Chilkat_weaving) Fingerweaving (/wiki/Fingerweaving) Flying shuttle (/wiki/Flying_shuttle) Heddle (/wiki/Heddle) Ikat Inkle weaving (/wiki/Inkle_weaving) Kasuri (/wiki/Kasuri) Loom (/wiki/Loom) Navajo weaving (/wiki/Navajo_weaving) Pibiones (/wiki/Pibiones) Reed (/wiki/Reed_(weaving)) Salish weaving (/wiki/Salish_weaving) Shed (/wiki/Shed_(weaving)) Shuttle (/wiki/Shuttle_(weaving)) Sizing (/wiki/Sizing) Sizing machine (/wiki/Textile_sizing_machine) Tablet weaving (/wiki/Tablet_weaving) Talim (/wiki/Talim_(textiles)) Tāniko (/wiki/T%C4%81niko) Tapestry (/wiki/Tapestry) Temple (/wiki/Temple_(weaving)) Wattle (/wiki/Wattle_(construction)) Wicker (/wiki/Wicker) Resin (/wiki/Resin_wicker) Types of looms (/wiki/Loom) Air-jet loom (/wiki/Air-jet_loom) Dandy loom (/wiki/Dandy_loom) Dobby loom (/wiki/Dobby_loom) Hattersley loom (/wiki/Hattersley_loom) Horrocks loom (/wiki/Horrocks_loom) Jacquard loom (/wiki/Jacquard_loom) Lancashire loom (/wiki/Lancashire_Loom) Northrop loom (/wiki/Northrop_Loom) Power loom (/wiki/Power_loom) Rapier loom (/wiki/Rapier_loom) Roberts loom (/wiki/Roberts_Loom) Warp-weighted loom (/wiki/Warp-weighted_loom) Weavers Acesas (/wiki/Acesas) Anni Albers (/wiki/Anni_Albers) Otti Berger (/wiki/Otti_Berger) Micheline Beauchemin (/wiki/Micheline_Beauchemin) Johanna Brunsson (/wiki/Johanna_Brunsson) Ada Dietz (/wiki/Ada_Dietz) Thomas Ferguson & Co Ltd (/wiki/Thomas_Ferguson_%26_Co_Ltd) Elisabeth Forsell (/wiki/Elisabeth_Forsell) Dorothy Liebes (/wiki/Dorothy_Liebes) Ethel Mairet 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Traditional garment of the Malay Archipelago and the Pacific Islands This article should specify the language of its non-English content, using {{ lang (/wiki/Template:Lang) }} , {{ transliteration (/wiki/Template:Transliteration) }} for transliterated languages, and {{ IPA (/wiki/Template:IPA) }} for phonetic transcriptions, with an appropriate ISO 639 code (/wiki/Lists_of_ISO_639_codes) . Wikipedia's multilingual support templates (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_multilingual_support_templates) may also be used. See why (/wiki/Template:Lang#Rationale) . ( August 2021 ) Dutch military personnel wearing sarong, 1949 Three women wearing sarongs in 1905 A sarong or a sarung ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) s ə ˈ r ɒ ŋ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ) is a large tube or length of fabric (/wiki/Textile) , often wrapped around the waist, worn in Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) , South Asia (/wiki/South_Asia) , Western Asia (/wiki/Western_Asia) , Northern Africa (/wiki/Northern_Africa) , East Africa (/wiki/East_Africa) , [1] (#cite_note-1) West Africa (/wiki/West_Africa) , and on many Pacific islands (/wiki/Pacific_island) . The fabric often employs woven plaid (/wiki/Plaid_(pattern)) or checkered patterns or may be brightly colored by means of batik (/wiki/Batik) or ikat (/wiki/Ikat) dyeing (/wiki/Dyeing) . Many modern sarongs have printed (/wiki/Printed) designs, often depicting animals (/wiki/Animal) or plants (/wiki/Plant) . Different types of sarongs are worn in different places in the world, notably the lungi (/wiki/Lungi) in the Indian subcontinent and the izaar (/wiki/Izaar) in the Arabian Peninsula. The unisex sarong is typically longer than the men's lungi. Etymology [ edit ] The term sarong is an English loanword of Malay (/wiki/Malay_language) sarong ( [ˈsaroŋ] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Malay) ) origin, meaning 'to cover' or 'to sheath'. [2] (#cite_note-2) It was first used in 1834 referring to the skirt-like garment of the Malay (/wiki/Malays_(ethnic_group)) . Sarong is also the colloquial (/wiki/Indonesian_language#Colloquial_Indonesian) and old spelling of the Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesian_language) and Malay (/wiki/Malay_language) word for sarung , while in formal Indonesian it is known as sarung ( [ˈsaruŋ] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Malay) ). Sarongs are known as many different names across Asia, including Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_language) sarung ( ꦱꦫꦸꦁ ), Tamil (/wiki/Tamil_language) saram ( சாரம் ), Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_language) ṣārūn ( صارون ); and Sinhala (/wiki/Sinhala_language) sarama ( සරම ). In West Africa, the word srong or sorong is found in the Akan (/wiki/Akan_language) language, and this word means "the highest point", in reference to the garment being fastened at the very top in order to secure it. [3] (#cite_note-3) Overview [ edit ] Sundanese (/wiki/Sundanese_people) sarong weaver (/wiki/Weaver_(occupation)) in Bandung (/wiki/Bandung) , West Java (/wiki/West_Java) , present-day Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , 1900–1940 Sarung denotes a length of fabric as a garment (/wiki/Garment) . Sarong or sarung denotes the lower garment worn by Southeast Asian (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) men and women. This consists of a length of fabric about a yard (0.91 m) wide and two-and-a-half yards (2.3 m) long. In the center of this sheet, across the narrower width, a panel of contrasting color or pattern about one foot wide is woven or dyed into the fabric, which is known as the kepala or "head" of the sarong. This sheet is stitched at the narrower edges to form a tube. One steps into this tube, brings the upper edge above the level of the navel (the hem should be level with the ankles), positions the kepala at the center of the back, and folds in the excess fabric from both sides to the front center, where they overlap and secure the sarong by rolling the upper hem down over itself. Malay (/wiki/Malay_people) men wear sarongs woven in a check pattern, while women wear sarongs dyed in the batik (/wiki/Batik) method. However, in Javanese culture (/wiki/Javanese_people) , the wearing of batik (/wiki/Batik) sarongs is common and not restricted to a particular gender; sometimes they are also worn on formal occasions such as weddings. The sarong is common wear for women in formal settings with a kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) blouse. Malay (/wiki/Malay_people) men wear sarongs in public only when attending Friday prayers at the mosque (/wiki/Mosque) , [ citation needed ] but sarongs remain very common casual wear at home for men of all ethnicities and religions in Brunei (/wiki/Brunei) , Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) , Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) , Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) , Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) , Sri Lanka (#Sri_Lanka) , and much of the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) . [4] (#cite_note-4) (In the Indian subcontinent, excluding Sri Lanka, sarongs are sometimes known as mundu (/wiki/Mundu) or lungi (/wiki/Lungi) .) Regional variations [ edit ] Arabian Peninsula [ edit ] Main article: Izaar (/wiki/Izaar) Yemeni (/wiki/Yemen) men in traditional sarongs Yemeni (/wiki/Yemen) man tying his futah (sarong). Sometimes people keep money or small utensils in the folds of the futah. Sarongs known under a variety of local names are traditionally worn by the people of Yemen (/wiki/Yemen) and elsewhere on the Arabian Peninsula (/wiki/Arabian_Peninsula) . Local names for the garment include ṣārūn , fūṭah , izaar (/wiki/Izaar) , wizār , maqtab and maʿwaz (pl. maʿāwiz ). In Hadhramout (/wiki/Hadhramaut) , Yemen (/wiki/Yemen) sarongs are called Saroon ( Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_language) : صارون ṣārūn ) in the interior and the coastal region. In Oman (/wiki/Oman) , sarongs are called wizār and are often white in color, similar to the Keralan (/wiki/Kerala) mundu (/wiki/Mundu) of the Indian subcontinent and it is usually worn under the Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) . In Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Saudi_Arabia) , sarongs are known as izaar . Designs can be checkered or striped as well floral or arabesque (/wiki/Arabesque_(Islamic_art)) , but double plaid (i.e., a vertical section of the izār with a different plaid pattern) designs from Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) are also very popular. In southwestern Saudi Arabia, tribal groups have their own style of unstitched izaar , which is locally woven. This is also worn in northern Yemen. However, the tribal groups in Yemen each have their own design for their ṣārūn , the latter of which may include tassels and fringes. It is thought that this tribal ṣārūn resembles the original izaar as worn on the Arabian Peninsula (/wiki/Arabian_Peninsula) since pre-Islamic times such as the Shendyt (/wiki/Shendyt) . They are generally worn open and unstitched in such a way that the garment does not reach over one's ankles. Other izaars , often imported from Bangladesh, are the traditional clothing of Arab (/wiki/Arab) fishermen of the Persian Gulf (/wiki/Persian_Gulf) , the Indian Ocean (/wiki/Indian_Ocean) and the Red Sea (/wiki/Red_Sea) . It was the traditional garment for men before the introduction of pant-like pajamas and kaftans (/wiki/Kaftan) during the Turkish and European colonial periods. Tube-stitched, as well as open sarongs, are both worn, even informal dishdasha (/wiki/Thawb) -wearing countries, as casual sleepwear and at home. Indian subcontinent [ edit ] Main article: Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) Bangladeshi (/wiki/Bangladesh) boy in a traditional lungi (/wiki/Lungi) . Sarongs, very similar to those of South-East Asia and completely different from the Indian subcontinent (excluding Sri Lanka) are widespread – in the state of Manipur (/wiki/Manipur) , where they are called phanek and mekhela in Assam (/wiki/Assam) which are very similar to traditional attire of other South-East Asian nations. In the South Indian (/wiki/India) states of Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) , they are called mundu (/wiki/Mundu) (if fully white or fully black) and lungi (/wiki/Lungi) or kaili (/wiki/Lungi) if coloured, and in Tamil Nadu (/wiki/Tamil_Nadu) , they are called kaili (/wiki/Lungi) or saaram (/wiki/Lungi) or vetti (/wiki/Veshti) or lungi (/wiki/Lungi) and are usually worn at home. A standard lungi measures 2.12 by 1.2 metres. Unlike the brightly colored Southeast Asian sarongs, the Kerala variety (the mundu ) is more often plain white and is worn for ceremonial or religious purposes. In Kerala, the brightly coloured sarongs are called kaily and the white ones are called mundu . The more formal, all-white dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) is worn for formal and religious occasions. While there are dresses based on the mundu which can be worn by women, they more commonly wear the sari (/wiki/Sari) . Sri Lanka [ edit ] Sarongs are very common in Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) and worn only by men. (A similar garment is worn by women. However, the women's garment is called redda , which is a wrap-around skirt.) It is the standard garment for most men in rural and even some urban communities. However, most men of upper social classes (whose public attire is usually trousers) wear the sarong only for ceremonial purposes, as a convenient night garment or only within the confines of the house. The Tamil-speaking communities, the Sri Lankan Tamils (/wiki/Sri_Lankan_Tamils) and the Sri Lankan Moors (/wiki/Sri_Lankan_Moors) people also call it saaram or chaaram . Statistically, the number of people wearing sarong as their primary public attire is on the decline in Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) , the reason being that the sarong carries the stigma of being the attire for less-educated lower social classes. However, there is a trend toward adopting the sarong as a fashionable garment or as a formal garment worn with national pride, only on special occasions. [5] (#cite_note-5) Political and social leaders of Sri Lanka who want to portray their humility and closeness to the common person and their nationalism, choose a variation of the sarong nicknamed the "national" as their public attire. Horn of Africa [ edit ] Sarongs are ubiquitous in Somalia (/wiki/Somalia) and the Muslim (/wiki/Muslim) -inhabited areas of the Horn of Africa (/wiki/Horn_of_Africa) . Although nomadic (/wiki/Nomad) and urban Somali (/wiki/Somali_people) men have worn them for centuries in the form of a plain white skirt (/wiki/Skirt) , the colorful macawiis (ma'awiis) sarong, which is the most popular form of the garment in the region. Before the 1940s, most macawiis were made of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) . However, since the industrialization of the market, they now come in many fabrics and combinations thereof, including polyester (/wiki/Polyester) , nylon (/wiki/Nylon) and silk (/wiki/Silk) . Designs vary greatly and range from checkered square motifs with watermarked diamonds and plaid (/wiki/Plaid_(pattern)) to simple geometric lines. The one constant is that they tend to be quite colorful; black macawiis are rare. Macawiis in Somalia are worn around the waist and folded several times over to secure their position. They are typically sold pre-sewn as one long circular stretch of cloth, though some vendors offer to sew them as a value-added (/wiki/Value-added) service. Southeast Asia [ edit ] Indonesia [ edit ] Javanese Muslim men in Indonesia wearing sarong. Formal batik sarongs worn by guards during Sultan's (/wiki/Yogyakarta_Sultanate) parade in Yogyakarta (/wiki/Yogyakarta) In Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) the sarong is generally known as a kain sarung ('sarong cloth') except for in Bali (/wiki/Bali) where it carries the name kamben , possibly etymologically related to kemben (/wiki/Kemben) (Javanese torso wrap). The sarung or sarong is often described as an Indonesian skirt; it is a large tube or length of fabric, often wrapped around the waist and worn by men and women throughout much of the Indonesian archipelago. [6] (#cite_note-Gultom-6) The sarong is also commonly described as a unisex tubular skirt. [7] (#cite_note-JG-Sarong-7) The most common design of the Indonesian sarong is woven cloth with checkered motifs, usually used by Muslim men (/wiki/Islam_in_Indonesia) for salah (/wiki/Salah) prayer. This kind of sarong cloth is stitched together to create a tubular skirt-like lower garment. In Bali, sarongs are not stitched together as a tube, but remain as a piece of cloth to wrap around the waist and secured with a knot. Other than common checkered motifs, other woven or print methods might be employed, such as batik (/wiki/Batik) , ikat (/wiki/Ikat) , songket (/wiki/Songket) , and other kinds of tenun (/wiki/Tenun) traditional woven clothes. Sarongs are used by various ethnic groups in Indonesia (/wiki/Ethnic_groups_in_Indonesia) . They are made from a variety of materials such as cotton, polyester or silk. [6] (#cite_note-Gultom-6) Indonesian women wear traditional costumes called kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) as upper garments, while for lower garments they wear sarongs dyed in the batik method, with flower motifs and in brighter colors. However, in Javanese culture, the wearing of batik sarungs is not restricted to women on formal occasions such as weddings. In 2019, in an effort to promote and popularize the sarong among its people, the government encouraged Indonesians to wear the sarong in public at least once a month. President Joko Widodo (/wiki/Joko_Widodo) said the sarong is a significant element of Indonesian culture (/wiki/Indonesian_culture) and that wearing it will be a sign of appreciation for sarong craftsmen. [7] (#cite_note-JG-Sarong-7) Malaysia [ edit ] In Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) , the sarong is known as a kain . The word kain is paired with specific words to specify its type and function such as kain pelikat (a type of sarong with a simple stripe and box pattern), kain sarung , [8] (#cite_note-8) kain tenun (woven sarong), kain batik (sarong with batik motifs and design, normally worn by women and paired with a kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) or Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) ) or kain samping or sampin (specialized sarong worn by men with Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) ). In the Malaysian state of Sarawak (/wiki/Sarawak) , it is called sabok (for men) and tapeh (for women). Philippines [ edit ] Main articles: Tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Philippine_clothing)) , Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) , and Malong (/wiki/Malong) Kapa malong malong , a traditional Maranao (/wiki/Maranao_people) dance featuring the many uses of the malong (/wiki/Malong) French (/wiki/French_people) illustration of a Spanish-Filipino mestizo (/wiki/Filipino_Mestizos) couple c. 1846, showing the traditional way of wearing the tapis by the ladies A patadyong from the Sulu Archipelago (/wiki/Sulu_Archipelago) in the Honolulu Museum of Art (/wiki/Honolulu_Museum_of_Art) Cordilleran (/wiki/Igorot_people) alampay in the Honolulu Museum of Art (/wiki/Honolulu_Museum_of_Art) Bagobo (/wiki/Bagobo_people) malong woven from abaca (/wiki/Abaca) fiber T'nalak (/wiki/T%27nalak) textiles woven from abaca (/wiki/Abaca) fiber Sarong from the Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) are generally known as tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Philippine_clothing)) in Luzon (/wiki/Luzon) , alampay in the Cordilleran (/wiki/Igorot_people) highlands, patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) in the islands of Visayas (/wiki/Visayas) and Sulu (/wiki/Sulu_Archipelago) , and malong (/wiki/Malong) in Mindanao (/wiki/Mindanao) . They are worn by both men and women and can be rectangular or tube-like. They can be knee-length or ankle-length and come in various colors that are usually unique to the specific ethnic group that wove them. Among men, the skirt is usually drawn up and tied at the waist (like a dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) ), forming a trouser-like clothing known as a salawal . They can also serve as shawls or blankets. They were paired with close-fitting shirts or jackets known as baro or bayu . [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-vinta-10) [11] (#cite_note-coo-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-Kaino1995-13) Among the Maranao people (/wiki/Maranao_people) , the malong is featured in the folk dance kapa malong malong which shows the various ways that the malong can be utilized. [14] (#cite_note-14) During the Spanish colonial era (/wiki/History_of_the_Philippines_(1565%E2%80%931898)) , the tapis was worn over a longer skirt ( saya or falda ) due to the shortness of the tapis being deemed too immodest by the Spanish clergy to be worn alone. It evolved over time to become part of the traditional Filipino dress for women, the baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) . [11] (#cite_note-coo-11) [15] (#cite_note-scott-15) Western world [ edit ] Woman wearing sarong over bikini (/wiki/Bikini) at a beach. In North and South America as well as Europe, hip wraps are worn as beach wear or as a cover-up over swimwear (/wiki/Swimwear) . The wrap is often made of a thin, light fabric, often rayon (/wiki/Rayon) , and may feature decorative fringing on both sides. They may have ties, which are long thin straps of fabric which the wearer can tie together to prevent the wrap from falling down. These wraps are mostly worn by women as beach cover-ups and do not usually resemble traditional Asian or African sarongs in size, pattern or design. Western men who wear male sarongs are influenced by the Scottish kilt or lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) within the Polynesian or Samoan culture. Typically sarongs are worn by men when they are at home, the beach, by the pool, or on a cruise. [16] (#cite_note-16) Securing [ edit ] Numerous tying methods exist to hold a sarong to the wearer's body. In some cases, these techniques customarily differ according to the sex of wearer. If a sarong has ties, they may be used to hold it in place. Sarong ties give the wearer a little extra hold and security. [17] (#cite_note-17) If no ties exist, a pin may be used, the fabric may be tightly tucked under itself in layers, the corners of the main sheet may be wrapped around the body and knotted, or a belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) may be used to hold the sarong in place. Similar garments [ edit ] A traditional Khmer dancer (/wiki/Khmer_dancer) wearing a sampot in Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) The batik (/wiki/Batik) sarong in "Kawung" pattern (/wiki/Overlapping_circles_grid) , Java (/wiki/Java) , Indonesia The basic garment known in English most often as a sarong , sewn or unsewn, has analogs in many regions, where it shows variations in style and is known by different names. Africa (/wiki/Africa) In East Africa (/wiki/East_Africa) , it is called either a kanga (worn by African women), or a kikoy (/wiki/Kikoy) , traditionally worn by men and used with much simpler designs, however, it is used more frequently in high fashion. Kangas are brightly coloured lengths of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) that incorporate elaborate and artistic designs and usually include the printing of a Swahili proverb along the hem. In Madagascar (/wiki/Madagascar) it is called a lamba . In Malawi (/wiki/Malawi) it is called a chitenje (/wiki/Chitenje) . In Somalia (/wiki/Somalia) it is called a macawis or hoosgunti . In Mauritius (/wiki/Mauritius) it is called a pareo (/wiki/Pareo) . In Mozambique (/wiki/Mozambique) it is called a capulana (/wiki/Capulana) . In South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) it is called a kikoi and commonly used as a furniture throw or for going to the beach. In Zambia (/wiki/Zambia) they are known as chitenge . Brazil (/wiki/Brazil) Kangas or cangas are used in Brazil as swimwear by women. They are readily available at beaches and littoral (/wiki/Littoral_zone) cities, but are also found in shops in the countryside for swimming in pools or rivers. Middle East (/wiki/Middle_East) In Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Saudi_Arabia) , it is called fouta (Arabic: فوطه ). In Yemen (/wiki/Yemen) , it is called either fouta (Arabic: فوطه ) or meouaz (Arabic: معوز ). Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) In South India (/wiki/South_India) it is called a lungi (/wiki/Lungi) . It is most often sewn into a large cylindrical shape, so there is no slit when the phanek or lungi is tied. In eastern India and Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) it is known as a lungi (/wiki/Lungi) . In Northeastern India (/wiki/Northeastern_India) traditional clothing are the phanek in Manipur and mekhela (/wiki/Mekhela) in Assam which are very similar to the traditional attire of other South-East Asian nations. In South India it is called veetti in Tamil (/wiki/Tamil_language) , pancha in Telugu (/wiki/Telugu_language) , panche in Kannada (/wiki/Kannada) , and mundu (/wiki/Mundu) in Malayalam (/wiki/Malayalam) . In the southernmost districts of Tamil Nadu, it is also known as chaaram , possibly influenced from Sri Lanka from the trading days. In the Maldives (/wiki/Maldives) , and Indian state of Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) , it is known as a mundu (/wiki/Mundu) , feyli [18] (#cite_note-18) or neriyathu . In Punjab (/wiki/Punjab_region) it is a called chadra . In Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) it is called saram in Tamil, and sarama in Sinhalese (/wiki/Sinhalese_language) . The tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Philippine_clothing)) of the traditional colonial Filipino (/wiki/Filipino_people) baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) dress, evolved from a sarong-like wrap with the addition of a long skirt ( saya ) underneath, due to Spanish demands for modesty [11] (#cite_note-coo-11) [19] (#cite_note-pfmf-19) [15] (#cite_note-scott-15) A group of local women wearing sarong and kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) at the entrance of traditional house in a village at Minahasa (/wiki/Minahasa_Regency) , North Sulawesi (/wiki/North_Sulawesi) , Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) c. 1900 Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) In Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) សារុង /saaroŋ/ [20] (#cite_note-20) is used as an alternative to សំពត់ /sɑmpʊət/ (/wiki/Sampot) . [21] (#cite_note-21) In Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , it is generally known as sarung or kain sarung , but in larger extent in Indonesian languages (/wiki/Languages_of_Indonesia) it can be known as cawat , cindai , tapih , tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Indonesian_weaving_style)) , lunggi , lurik , pareo , palepai , jarit , jarik , sinjang , kampuh , poleng , sindai , selongsong , wiru , and wiron . In Laos (/wiki/Laos) and Isan (/wiki/Isan) (northwestern Thailand), it is called a sinh ( Lao (/wiki/Lao_language) : ສິ້ນ , Thai (/wiki/Thai_language) : ซิ่น ), as well as sarong . In Malaysia it is known as a kain , kain pelikat , kain sarung , kain tenun , kain batik , or kain sampin (specialised sarong worn by men with Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) ). In the Malaysian state of Sarawak, it is called sabok (for men) and tapeh (for women). In Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar) , it is known as a longyi (/wiki/Longyi) . In the Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) it is generally known as malong (/wiki/Malong) (in Mindanao (/wiki/Mindanao) ), patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) (in Visayas (/wiki/Visayas) and the Sulu Archipelago (/wiki/Sulu_Archipelago) ), and tapis (in Luzon (/wiki/Luzon) ). It can function as a skirt for both men and women, a turban (/wiki/Turban) , niqab (/wiki/Niqab) , hijab (/wiki/Hijab) , a dress, a blanket, a sunshade, a bedsheet, a "dressing room", a hammock, a prayer mat, and other purposes. During the Spanish colonial period, it evolved into a distinctive outer covering of the skirt for the baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) . [22] (#cite_note-pfmftapis-22) In Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) , it is known as a pha khao ma ( Thai (/wiki/Thai_language) : ผ้าขาวม้า ) for men and a pha thung ( Thai (/wiki/Thai_language) : ผ้าถุง ) for women. Polynesian Hiva Oa (/wiki/Hiva_Oa) dancers dressed in pāreu around 1909 Pacific Islands (/wiki/Pacific_Islands) In Fiji (/wiki/Fiji) it is known as an isulu . In Hawaii (/wiki/Hawaii) it is referred to as kikepa . In Papua New Guinea (/wiki/Papua_New_Guinea) the Tok Pisin (/wiki/Tok_Pisin) term is lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) and it is worn by men and women. In the other lingua franca, Hiri Motu (/wiki/Hiri_Motu) , it is called rami . In Rotuma (/wiki/Rotuma) , it is known as a hạ' fạli . In Samoa (/wiki/Samoa) it is known as a lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) (also lava-lava ). In Tahiti (/wiki/Tahiti) and Cook Islands (/wiki/Cook_Islands) it is known as a pāreu . In Tonga (/wiki/Tonga) it is known as tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) . In Wallis and Futuna (/wiki/Wallis_and_Futuna) it is known as kie (/wiki/Kie) . In the media [ edit ] The American public is most familiar with the sarong for the dozens of films (/wiki/Film) set in the South Seas, most of them romantic dramas made in the 1930s and 1940s. Dorothy Lamour (/wiki/Dorothy_Lamour) is by far the actress most linked with the garment, which was designed by Edith Head (/wiki/Edith_Head) . [ citation needed ] Lamour starred in multiple films of this genre, starting with The Hurricane (/wiki/The_Hurricane_(1937_film)) in 1937. In fact, Lamour was nicknamed "The Sarong Girl" by the press and even wore a sarong on occasion in more traditional films. [ citation needed ] Among the other actresses to don the sarong for film roles are Maria Montez (/wiki/Maria_Montez) , Gilda Gray (/wiki/Gilda_Gray) , Myrna Loy (/wiki/Myrna_Loy) , Gene Tierney (/wiki/Gene_Tierney) , Frances Farmer (/wiki/Frances_Farmer) and Movita (/wiki/Movita) . Male stars who wore the manly sarongs on film include Jon Hall (/wiki/Jon_Hall_(actor)) , Ray Milland (/wiki/Ray_Milland) , Tyrone Power (/wiki/Tyrone_Power) , Robert Preston (/wiki/Robert_Preston_(actor)) and Sabu Dastagir (/wiki/Sabu_Dastagir) , as well as Ralph Fiennes (/wiki/Ralph_Fiennes) in The Constant Gardener (/wiki/The_Constant_Gardener_(film)) and Pierce Brosnan in The Thomas Crown Affair (/wiki/The_Thomas_Crown_Affair_(1999_film)) . The 2005 documentary film Soldiers in Sarong , directed by Lokendra Arambam, depicts the women's resistance movement in Manipur, North-East India (/wiki/Manipur) . [23] (#cite_note-23) The 2020 Indonesian film Tarung Sarung (https://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarung_Sarung) depicts a martial arts tradition where combatants are joined together by the garment. In Singapore, the term Sarong Party Girl (/wiki/Sarong_Party_Girl) refers to a local single Singaporean woman especially of Chinese ethnicity who favor socializing and having relationships with expatriate Caucasian men rather than the local ones. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Indonesia portal (/wiki/Portal:Indonesia) Malaysia portal (/wiki/Portal:Malaysia) Singapore portal (/wiki/Portal:Singapore) Wikimedia Commons has media related to sarongs (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sarongs) . Look up sarong (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Special:Search/sarong) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Batik (/wiki/Batik) Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) Kanga (African garment) (/wiki/Kanga_(African_garment)) Lava-lava (/wiki/Lava-lava) Mundu (/wiki/Mundu) Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) Mundum neriyathum (/wiki/Mundum_neriyathum) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Selyn - Fair Trade Handlooms" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170226214211/https://www.selyn.lk/single-post/2016/02/25/Sarong-from-ancient-times-to-the-present) . Selyn - Fair Trade Handlooms . Archived from the original (https://www.selyn.lk/single-post/2016/02/25/Sarong-from-ancient-times-to-the-present) on 26 February 2017 . Retrieved 28 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Sarong" (https://www.etymonline.com/search?q=sarong) . Online Etymology Dictionary, Douglas Harper. 2020 . Retrieved 21 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Christaller, Johann Gottlieb (June 22, 1881). "A Dictionary of the Asante and Fante Language Called Tshi (Chwee, Tw̌i): With a Grammatical Introduction and Appendices on the Geography of the Gold Coast and Other Subjects" (https://books.google.com/books?id=e6UTAAAAYAAJ&q=asante+fante+dictionary+nsrom) . Evangelical Missionary Society – via Google Books. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Singh, Atom Sunil; "Indigenous Games between Cambodia and Manipur: A Borderless Connectivity" (http://www.e-pao.net/epSubPageExtractor.asp?src=manipur.Sports_and_Manipur.Indigenous_Games_between_Cambodia_and_Manipur) " (http://www.e-pao.net/epSubPageExtractor.asp?src=manipur.Sports_and_Manipur.Indigenous_Games_between_Cambodia_and_Manipur) . E-pao.net . Retrieved 2011-09-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Travelsrilanka - Seven Additional Uses for a Sarong - Sri Lanka" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071007044002/http://www.travelsrilanka.com/index.cfm?PAGE=1176) . www.travelsrilanka.com . Archived from the original (http://www.travelsrilanka.com/index.cfm?PAGE=1176) on October 7, 2007. ^ Jump up to: a b Gultom, Obbie Afri (2014-04-26). "Indonesian Skirt : The Famous Indonesian Sarong" (http://www.travelfoodfashion.com/indonesian-skirt-famous-indonesian-sarong/) . Eat,Travel and Style . Retrieved 2020-10-29 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Jokowi Wants Indonesians to Wear Sarong at Least Once a Month" (https://jakartaglobe.id/news/jokowi-wants-indonesians-to-wear-sarong-at-least-once-a-month) . Jakarta Globe . 5 March 2019 . Retrieved 2020-10-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Mohamad, Maznah (28 March 1996). The Malay Handloom Weavers: A Study of the Rise and Decline of Traditional Manufacture . Institute of Southeast Asian Studies. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789813016996 . Retrieved 28 March 2018 – via Google Books. ^ (#cite_ref-9) So, Michelle. (http://www.sunstar.com.ph/static/ceb/2008/04/17/oped/michelle.p..so.caught.in.the.net.html) Caught in the Net: ‘Tapis’ cops (editorial column) Sun Star Cebu. April 17, 2008 (http://www.sunstar.com.ph/static/ceb/2008/04/17/oped/michelle.p..so.caught.in.the.net.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20080420234456/http://www.sunstar.com.ph/static/ceb/2008/04/17/oped/michelle.p..so.caught.in.the.net.html) April 20, 2008, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-vinta_10-0) "The Filipiniana Dress: The Rebirth of the Terno" (https://www.vintato.com/blog/2019/5/14/the-filipiniana-dress-the-rebirth-of-the-terno) . Vinta Gallery . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Coo, Stéphanie Marie R. (2014). Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896) (PhD). Université Nice Sophia Antipolis. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Perdon, Renato (22 August 2013). "Muslim Filipinos: An Ethnic Ensemble" (https://muntingnayon.com/102/102794/) . Munting Nayon . Retrieved 20 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Kaino1995_13-0) Lorna Kaino (1995). The Necessity of Craft: Development and Women's Craft Practices in the Asian-Pacific Region . University of Western Australia Press. p. 52. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-875560-62-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Kapa Malong-Malong" (https://www.danceanddance.com/267/Dance_styles_review.php) . DanceAndDance . Retrieved 14 July 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Scott, William Henry (/wiki/William_Henry_Scott_(historian)) (1994). Barangay: Sixteenth Century Philippine Culture and Society . Quezon City: Ateneo de Manila University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 971-550-135-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "men" (http://1worlldsarongs.blogspot.co.id/2014/04/sarongsforwomen.html) . Sarong Blog . 2014-04-03 . Retrieved 2016-09-21 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Sarongs : A Journey Through Style and Function" (https://shawlovers.com/sarong/) . 15 July 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-18) Sarong (https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/search_the_collection_database/search_object_details.aspx?objectid=549883&partid=1&output=Terms%2f!!%2fOR%2f!!%2f20585%2f!%2f%2f!%2fsarong%2f!%2f%2f!!%2f%2f!!!%2f&orig=%2fresearch%2fsearch_the_collection_database%2fadvanced_search.aspx¤tPage=1&numpages=10) , The British Museum ^ (#cite_ref-pfmf_19-0) "Baro't Saya" (https://philippinefolklifemuseum.org/portfolio-items/barot-saya/) . Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "SEAlang Dictionary" (http://www.sealang.net/khmer/search.pl?dict=khmer&hasFocus=orth&approx=&orth=%E1%9E%9F%E1%9E%B6%E1%9E%9A%E1%9E%BB%E1%9E%84&phone=&def=&anon=on&matchEntry=any&matchLength=word&matchPosition=any&source=&ety=&pos=&usage=&subject=&useTags=1) . www.sealang.net . Retrieved 2023-10-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "SEAlang Dictionary" (http://www.sealang.net/khmer/search.pl?dict=khmer&hasFocus=orth&approx=&orth=%E1%9E%9F%E1%9F%86%E1%9E%96%E1%9E%8F%E1%9F%8B&phone=&def=&anon=on&matchEntry=any&matchLength=word&matchPosition=any&source=&ety=&pos=&usage=&subject=&useTags=1) . www.sealang.net . Retrieved 2023-10-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-pfmftapis_22-0) "Tapis" (https://philippinefolklifemuseum.org/portfolio-items/tapis/) . Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation . Retrieved 19 February 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Soldiers in Sarong directed by Lokendra Arambam" (http://www.cultureunplugged.com/play/1156/Soldiers-in-Sarong) . Cultureunplugged.com . 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French fashion designer (1923–2016) André Courrèges Courrèges in 1985 Born ( 1923-03-09 ) 9 March 1923 Pau, Pyrénées-Atlantiques (/wiki/Pau,_Pyr%C3%A9n%C3%A9es-Atlantiques) , France (/wiki/French_Third_Republic) Died 7 January 2016 (2016-01-07) (aged 92) Neuilly-sur-Seine (/wiki/Neuilly-sur-Seine) , France Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) Known for Space-age (/wiki/Space-age) clothes Label Courrèges André Courrèges ( French: [andʁe (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) kuʁɛʒ] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ; 9 March 1923 – 7 January 2016) was a French fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) . He was particularly known for his streamlined 1960s designs influenced by modernism (/wiki/Modernism) and futurism (/wiki/Futurism) , exploiting modern technology and new fabrics. Courrèges defined the go-go boot (/wiki/Go-go_boot) and along with Mary Quant (/wiki/Mary_Quant) , is one of the designers credited with inventing the miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) . Early life [ edit ] Courrèges was born in the city of Pau within the Bearnese region of the Pyrenees (/wiki/Pyrenees) . [1] (#cite_note-South_China_Morning_Post-1) He wanted to pursue design in art school but his father, a butler, disapproved of his passion as he wanted him to be an engineer. Courrèges attended École Nationale des Ponts-et-Chaussées (/wiki/%C3%89cole_des_ponts_ParisTech) (École des ponts ParisTech). [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) During World War II, he became a pilot for the French Air Force (/wiki/French_Air_Force) . [3] (#cite_note-Friedman_2016-3) Career [ edit ] Women's suit set 15, André Courrèges, 1965 André Courrèges dress and coat, c. 1966 ( RISD Museum (/wiki/RISD_Museum) ) Early beginnings [ edit ] In 1945, at 25, after studying to be a civil engineer (/wiki/Civil_engineer) , Courrèges went to Paris to work at the fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) Jeanne Lafaurie (/w/index.php?title=Jeanne_Lafaurie&action=edit&redlink=1) . [4] (#cite_note-4) A few months later, he went to work for Cristóbal Balenciaga (/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga) . [5] (#cite_note-washobit-5) Courrèges worked for Balenciaga for 10 years mastering the cut and construction of garments. [6] (#cite_note-Savannah_College_of_Art_and_Design-6) Courrèges [ edit ] In 1961, Courrèges launched his own fashion house. [5] (#cite_note-washobit-5) He became known for extremely simple, geometric, modern designs, including the "little white dress" and pants for women. [5] (#cite_note-washobit-5) They were often paired with low-heeled white ankle boots, a style that became known as the Courrèges boot, and evolved into the popular go-go boot (/wiki/Go-go_boot) . [7] (#cite_note-lok-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-ohara-9) His clientele were mature and conservative woman with high disposable income. His designs style was shaped by Balenciaga with garments that were well sculpted for women. [10] (#cite_note-0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu-10) Courrège's autumn 1964 collection evolved the fashion industry with modern, futuristic designs that were unheard of during the time. The collection included tailored tunics and trousers which were paired with his version of the miniskirt. "He paired his shorter skirts with white or colored leather, calf-high boots that added a confident flair to the ensemble. This look became one of the most important fashion developments of the decade and was widely copied." [10] (#cite_note-0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu-10) Its impact was so transformative that some fashion writers compared it to Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) 's 1947 New Look in importance. [11] (#cite_note-11) Controversy over who created the idea for the miniskirt revolves around Courrèges and Mary Quant (/wiki/Mary_Quant) . Courrèges explicitly claimed to have invented it, accusing his London rival to the claim, Quant, of merely "commercialising" it. [12] (#cite_note-steele-12) Courrèges presented short skirts (four inches above the knee) in January 1965 for that year's Spring/Summer collection. [13] (#cite_note-polanc-13) He had presented "above-the-knee" skirts in the previous year, with his August 1964 haute couture presentation proclaimed the "best show seen so far" for that season by The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . [14] (#cite_note-peterson-14) Valerie Steele (/wiki/Valerie_Steele) has stated that Courrèges was designing short skirts as early as 1961, although she champions Quant's claim to have created the miniskirt first as being more convincingly supported by evidence. [12] (#cite_note-steele-12) Others, such as Jess Cartner-Morley of The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) explicitly credit Courrèges with having invented the miniskirt. [15] (#cite_note-jess-15) The Independent also stated that "Courreges was the inventor of the miniskirt: at least in his eyes and those of the French fashion fraternity ... The argument came down to high fashion vs street fashion and to France versus Britain – there's no conclusive evidence either way." [1] (#cite_note-South_China_Morning_Post-1) British (/wiki/British_Vogue) Vogue considered John Bates (/wiki/John_Bates_(designer)) the true inventor of the miniskirt, rather than Courrèges or Quant. [16] (#cite_note-marit-16) Alongside short skirts, Courrèges was renowned for his trouser suits (/wiki/Pantsuit) , cut-out backs and midriffs, all designed for a new type of athletic, active young woman. [13] (#cite_note-polanc-13) Steele has described Courrèges's work as a "brilliant couture version of youth fashion." [12] (#cite_note-steele-12) One of Courrèges's most distinctive looks, a knit bodystocking (/wiki/Bodystocking) with a gabardine (/wiki/Gabardine) miniskirt slung around the hips, was widely copied and plagiarised, much to his chagrin, and it would be 1967 before he again held a press showing for his work. [13] (#cite_note-polanc-13) Courrèges's favoured materials included plastics (/wiki/Plastic) such as vinyl and stretch fabrics like Lycra (/wiki/Lycra) . [5] (#cite_note-washobit-5) While he preferred white and silver, he often used flashes of citrus colour, [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) and the predominantly white designs in his August 1964 show were tempered with touches of his signature clear pink, a "bright stinging" green, various shades of brown from dark to pale, and poppy red. [14] (#cite_note-peterson-14) In 1967 Courrèges married Coqueline Barrière (/wiki/Coqueline_Courr%C3%A8ges) , his design assistant. They had met while working together at Balenciaga, and worked together as a husband and wife team for the rest of his life. [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) In 1968 Courrèges sold a share of his company to L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) in order to finance his expansion, which, by 1972, included 125 boutiques around the world. That year, Courrèges was commissioned to design staff uniforms for the Munich Olympics (/wiki/1972_Summer_Olympics) that year. [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) He began offering menswear in 1973. [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) He also developed fragrances such as Empreinte, Courrèges Homme, Eau de Courrèges, Courrèges Blue, Sweet Courrèges, and Generation Courrèges. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) In clothing, he remained devoted to the Space Age styles he had established during the 1960s, not changing his characteristic design features even as fashion changed during the 1970s. [18] (#cite_note-18) At the end of 1970s, Courrèges signed licensing agreements for lines of several garments, from shoes to towels. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) In early 1983, Courrèges worked with the Japanese motor company Honda (/wiki/Honda) to design special editions of their TACT motor scooter. By 2005, Itokin (/wiki/Itokin) held the Japanese ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) license for the Courrèges brand, with a retail value of €50 million. [19] (#cite_note-Luxury-19) By this point, Coqueline Courrèges had succeeded her husband as artistic director for the brand, Courrèges having retired in 1995 following their successful reclamation of the brand in 1994 despite several ownership changes. [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) In 1984 Courrèges designed the Peugeot (/wiki/Peugeot) "Courrèges" bicycle, a limited edition model in two colourways – pale blue, and white with pink colour pops, and with matching panniers, chain guard, handlebar grips and mudguards, with Sturmey-Archer hub gears. [20] (#cite_note-20) In 2011, André and Coqueline Courrèges sold the Courrèges brand for more than 10 million euros ($13.05 million) to two Young & Rubicam (/wiki/Young_%26_Rubicam) advertising executives, Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting. [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) [21] (#cite_note-21) By 2012, total revenue for the brand was about 20 million euros. [22] (#cite_note-22) In 2014, Groupe Artemis (/wiki/Groupe_Art%C3%A9mis) , the personal investment vehicle of François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) , purchased a minority stake in Courrège. In 2018 Groupe Artemis became the majority shareholder of the brand. [23] (#cite_note-23) Nicholas di Felice was appointed creative director in September 2020, and has been credited with revitalizing the brand and bringing it back to relevance. [24] (#cite_note-24) Space design [ edit ] Courrège's Spring 1964 collection established his impact on the fashion industry and named him the Space Age designer. The line consisted of "architecturally-sculpted, double-breasted coats with contrasting trim, well-tailored, sleeveless or short-sleeved minidresses with dropped waistlines and detailed welt seaming, and tunics worn with hipster pants". [6] (#cite_note-Savannah_College_of_Art_and_Design-6) A notable look was the linear minidresses with revolutionary tailoring with cut-out panels that displayed waists, midriffs and backs. Courrège had strong beliefs within the liberation of fashion. He emphasized that "A woman's body must be hard and free, not soft and harnessed. The harness – the girdle and bra – is the chain of the slave." [1] (#cite_note-South_China_Morning_Post-1) Which is why his cut-out panel garments were worn without bras. Accessories were inspired by astronauts' equipment such as goggles, helmets and flat boots. White and metallic colour ways were implemented to emphasise the futuristic collection. [25] (#cite_note-Reed_2012_30-25) He utilised unconventional materials such as metal, plastic and PVC (/wiki/PVC_clothing) which was unusual for couture ateliers. [25] (#cite_note-Reed_2012_30-25) The entire collection was celebrated with British (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) Vogue announced that 1964 was "the year of Courrèges". [25] (#cite_note-Reed_2012_30-25) The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) described him as "the brightest blaze of the year" to emphasise the change from the little black dress to the white dress. Designers such as Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) and Paco Rabanne (/wiki/Paco_Rabanne) took influences towards "future" fashion looks. With new popularity, his designs trickled down to mass production companies that created affordable designs similar to Courrèges. Later life and death [ edit ] Courrèges suffered from Parkinson's disease (/wiki/Parkinson%27s_disease) for the last 30 years of his life. [5] (#cite_note-washobit-5) He died on 7 January 2016 aged 92, in Neuilly-sur-Seine (/wiki/Neuilly-sur-Seine) outside Paris [3] (#cite_note-Friedman_2016-3) and was survived by his wife and their daughter. [17] (#cite_note-nyobit-17) His death was published in notable media outlets and many designers went to celebrate his life online. President François Hollande (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Hollande) went to Twitter to say, "A revolutionary designer, André Courrèges made his mark on haute couture using geometric shapes and new materials." [3] (#cite_note-Friedman_2016-3) Courrèges was a designer who looked to the future. He predicted the idea of healthy living and toned bodies through his book in 1982. Carla Sozzani (/wiki/Carla_Sozzani) , the owner of 10 Corso Como (/wiki/10_Corso_Como) stated that, "It changed the concept of couture, marking the turn of fashion into a new era." [3] (#cite_note-Friedman_2016-3) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Andre Courreges, designer who gave the world the miniskirt, dies at 92" (http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-luxury/article/1899897/andre-courreges-designer-who-gave-world-miniskirt-dies-92) . South China Morning Post . Retrieved 9 October 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Kellogg, Ann T.; Peterson, Amy T.; Bay, Stefani; Swindell, Natalie (2002). In an influential fashion : an encyclopedia of nineteenth-and twentieth-century fashion designers and retailers who transformed dress . Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. p. 73. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-313-31220-6 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 47216469 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/47216469) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Friedman, Vanessa (2016). "André Courrèges, Fashion Designer Who Redefined Couture, Dies at 92" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/09/business/andre-courreges-fashion-designer-who-redefined-couture-dies-at-92.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 9 October 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Erik Orsenna (2008). Courrèges (in French). Éditions Xavier Barral (/wiki/%C3%89ditions_Xavier_Barral) . p. 228. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-915173-27-7 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Weil, Martin (9 January 2016). "Andre Courrèges, 92, French fashion designer known for miniskirt, dies" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/andre-courreges-92-french-fashion-designer-known-for-miniskirt-dies/2016/01/09/dc9cb80e-b690-11e5-a842-0feb51d1d124_story.html) . The Washington Post . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0190-8286 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0190-8286) . Retrieved 9 January 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Savannah College of Art and Design" (https://0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/the-berg-companion-to-fashion/courreges-andre) . 0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu . Retrieved 8 October 2017 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-lok_7-0) O'Keeffe, Linda (2014). "The Shoe that left an Imprint: The Go-Go Boot" (https://books.google.com/books?id=gsBCn7K-7tcC&pg=PA338) . Shoes: A Celebration of Pumps, Sandals, Slippers & More . Workman Publishing. pp. 338–339. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0761173434 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2010). The dictionary of fashion history . Oxford: Berg. p. 108. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781847887382 . ^ (#cite_ref-ohara_9-0) O'Hara, Georgina (1986). The encyclopaedia of fashion . New York: H. N. Abrams. p. 79 (https://archive.org/details/encyclopediaoffa00ohar/page/79) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780810908826 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Savannah College of Art and Design" (https://0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/the-berg-companion-to-fashion/miniskirt) . 0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu . Retrieved 8 October 2017 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-11) Sweetinburgh, Thelma. "Fashion and Dress". 1966 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1965 . Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. pp. 296–297. The most important influence on world fashion during 1965 came from...André Courrèges. For its far-reaching repercussions, his widely publicized...collection could only be compared with the Christian Dior 'New Look,' which revolutionized world fashion overnight in 1947. ^ Jump up to: a b c Steele, Valerie (2000). Fifty years of fashion : new look to now (English ed.). New Haven: Yale University Press. pp. 51–64. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780300087383 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Polan, Brenda; Tredre, Roger (2009). "André Courrèges". The great fashion designers (English ed.). Oxford: Berg Publishers. pp. 123 (https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/123) –125. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780857851741 . ^ Jump up to: a b Peterson, Patricia (3 August 1964). "Courrèges Is Star of Best Show Seen So Far" (https://www.nytimes.com/1964/08/03/courreges-is-star-of-best-show-seen-so-far.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 11 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-jess_15-0) Cartner-Morley, Jess (2 December 2000). "Chelsea girl who instigated a new era" (https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2000/dec/02/audreygillan) . The Guardian . Retrieved 12 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-marit_16-0) Garments worn by Marit Allen (https://www.webarchive.org.uk/wayback/archive/20100218102351/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/object_stories/marit_allen/index.html) at the Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_%26_Albert_Museum) , London. Accessed 15 March 2010 ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Friedman, Vanessa (/wiki/Vanessa_Friedman) (8 January 2016). "André Courrèges, Fashion Designer Who Redefined Couture, Dies at 92" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/09/business/andre-courreges-fashion-designer-who-redefined-couture-dies-at-92.html?_r=0) . The New York Times . p. A15. ^ (#cite_ref-18) Morris, Bernadine (/wiki/Bernadine_Morris) (28 January 1976). "To Courrèges, It's Always 1963" (https://www.nytimes.com/1976/01/28/archives/to-courreges-its-always-1963.html) . The New York Times : 52 . Retrieved 23 January 2022 . ...[F]ashion went on to wild and woolier things and Courrèges didn't change his game. Not when hemlines dropped to practically the ankles. Not when stiffness and linings were banished from clothes. To him, it was always 1963. It still is. ^ (#cite_ref-Luxury_19-0) Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management . Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-118-17176-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Peugeot Courrèges bike -1984" (http://www.cyclov.fr/peugeot-courreges-1984_en.html) . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Alexandria Sage (24 January 2012), French brand Courreges takes retro fashion online (https://www.reuters.com/article/fashion-courreges/french-brand-courreges-takes-retro-fashion-online-idINL5E8CO2RD20120124) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Alexandria Sage (24 January 2012), French brand Courreges takes retro fashion online (https://www.reuters.com/article/fashion-courreges/french-brand-courreges-takes-retro-fashion-online-idINL5E8CO2RD20120124) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Our Investments: Courrège" (https://www.groupeartemis.com/en/our-investments/courreges/) . Groupe Artemis . Retrieved 3 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Nicholas di Felice" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/nicolas-di-felice) . Business of Fashion . 2023 . Retrieved 3 November 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Reed, Paula (2012). Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed The 1960s . London: Conran Octopus. p. 30. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84091604-1 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to André Courrèges (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Andr%C3%A9_Courr%C3%A8ges) . Official website for moral and patrimonial rights (http://www.andrecourregespatrimoine.com/?lang=english) Corporate official website (https://www.andrecourregespatrimoine.com/) André Courrèges (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/andre-courreges/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/13143711) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb12598771j) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb12598771j) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/120638789) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n84014008) Artists KulturNav (http://kulturnav.org/d600080e-8e7c-4b95-a16e-7252a7d87585) ULAN (https://www.getty.edu/vow/ULANFullDisplay?find=&role=&nation=&subjectid=500084871) Other SNAC (https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w64b5bjq) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.canary‐6b76898595‐f887b Cached time: 20240720173054 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.699 seconds Real time usage: 0.891 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3648/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 62221/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3801/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 12/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 98449/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.474/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 21621958/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 826.657 1 -total 27.82% 229.979 1 Template:Reflist 21.45% 177.351 1 Template:Infobox_fashion_designer 15.30% 126.450 1 Template:IPA-fr 15.13% 125.101 1 Template:IPA 12.28% 101.537 6 Template:Cite_news 12.24% 101.185 1 Template:Authority_control_(arts) 8.91% 73.645 1 Template:Short_description 8.70% 71.929 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 7.30% 60.314 10 Template:Cite_book Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:714211-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720173054 and revision id 1221771704. 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Undergarment originally designed for supporting the male genitalia For the band, see Jockstrap (band) (/wiki/Jockstrap_(band)) . Frontal, side and rear views of a man wearing a jockstrap A jockstrap , also a jock (male), jill (female), strap , cup , groin guard , pelvic protector (female), supporter , or athletic supporter , is an undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) for protecting the scrotum (/wiki/Scrotum) and penis (/wiki/Human_penis) or vulva (/wiki/Human_vulva) during contact sports (/wiki/Contact_sports) or other vigorous physical activity. This article deals chiefly with the genital protective sports gear designed for the male body, colloquially known as a "jock". A jockstrap (males) consists of a waistband (usually elastic (/wiki/Elastomer) ) with a support pouch for the genitalia and two elastic straps affixed to the base of the pouch and to the left and right sides of the waistband at the hip. The pouch, in some varieties, may be fitted with a pocket to hold an abdominal guard (/wiki/Abdominal_guard) (impact resistant cup, box) to protect the testicles (/wiki/Testicle) and the penis (/wiki/Human_penis) from injury (/wiki/Injury) . The jillstrap (#Jockstraps_for_females) ( a.k.a. a "jill") is the female equivalent of the jockstrap, but is designed to protect the vulva from getting struck. Etymology [ edit ] The word jockstrap has purportedly been in use at least since 1891, a likely contraction of "jockey strap", as the garment was first designed for bicycle-riding messengers and deliverymen, or 'bike jockeys'. The Bike Jockey Strap was the first jockstrap manufactured in America in 1874. [1] (#cite_note-bikehistory-1) [2] (#cite_note-davis2007-2) Jockey (/wiki/Jockey) meaning 'rider', primarily a race horse rider, has been in use since 1670. [3] (#cite_note-3) Jockey itself is the diminutive form of the Scots nickname Jock (for John) as Jackie is for the English nickname Jack. The nicknames Jack and Jackie, Jock and Jockey have been used generically for 'man, fellow, boy, common man'. From the period c .1650– c. 1850, 'jock' was used as slang for penis. [4] (#cite_note-etym-4) The more recent American slang term ' jock (/wiki/Jock_(athlete)) ', meaning an athlete, is traced to 1959 and is itself derived from 'jockstrap'. [4] (#cite_note-etym-4) History [ edit ] Jockstrap ad, 1941 JayBee jockstrap The jockstrap was invented in 1874 by C. F. Bennett of a Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) sporting goods company, Sharp & Smith, to provide comfort and support for bicycle jockeys working the cobblestone streets of Boston (/wiki/Boston) . [5] (#cite_note-5) The original incarnation of the jockstrap resembled a thong (/wiki/Thong) , as it featured a strap that went between the buttocks. [6] (#cite_note-6) In 1897 Bennett's newly formed Bike Web Company patented and began mass-producing the Bike Jockey Strap. [7] (#cite_note-7) The Bike Web Company later became known as the Bike Company (/wiki/Bike_Company) . Bike, until 2003, was a stand-alone company. In that year, the company and its trademarks were purchased by Russell Athletic. Russell Athletic continued to produce jockstraps using the Bike brand and logos until 2017 when they retired the brand. Russell had become a Fruit-of-the-Loom subsidiary, and Fruit-of-the-Loom is owned by and part of Berkshire Hathaway. On April 15, 2021, the brand's website reopened for online sales, featuring a modernized version of their trademark "No. 10" jockstrap, as well as active apparel. The jockstrap was also influential in early 20th-century medicine with the invention of the Heidelberg Electric Belt, a low-voltage electric powered jockstrap that claimed to cure kidney disorders (/wiki/Kidney_disorder) , insomnia (/wiki/Insomnia) , erectile dysfunction (/wiki/Erectile_dysfunction) , and other ailments. Today, jockstraps are still worn in the US by adolescent and adult men for sports, weightlifting, medical purposes, and for recovery from injury or surgery (/wiki/Surgery) for such conditions as hematocele (/wiki/Hematocele) , inguinal hernia (/wiki/Inguinal_hernia) , hydrocele (/wiki/Hydrocele) , or spermatocele (/wiki/Spermatocele) . In 2022, jockstraps saw a renewed popularity as underwear for men with jockstraps finding favor in place of more conventional underwear as wearing them became a fashionable trend. [8] (#cite_note-:0-8) The trend was reflected with the inclusion of the garment in the runways of various major designers including, Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , JW Anderson (/wiki/JW_Anderson) , Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) , and Rick Owens (/wiki/Rick_Owens) , alongside other large brands like Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) , Diesel (/wiki/Diesel_(brand)) , and 2(x)ist (/wiki/2(x)ist) making multiple styles. [9] (#cite_note-:1-9) Design [ edit ] Jockstraps are fairly consistent in design with variations appearing in details like width of waistband and fabrics. Some jockstraps are designed for specific sports: Swim jocks , for example, have a narrow waistband, and hockey jocks sometimes have adjustable elastic straps and garter (/wiki/Garter_(stockings)) clips that hold hockey socks (/wiki/Hockey_socks) in place while the bulky goalie protector has genital and abdominal foam padding. Windproof jockstraps have a special layer of fabric to protect the wearer from wind and cold in winter sports. Jockstraps are made in other materials as fetish wear. [10] (#cite_note-10) Aside from the aforementioned "fashion jockstraps", the 2000s have seen a resurgence in jockstrap designs and brands. Alternatives to jockstraps include the jock brief , or support briefs , which have the wide waistband of a jockstrap combined with a full seat and are made of an elastic supportive material. A thong style strap, sometimes called a dance belt (/wiki/Dance_belt) , has one narrow elastic strap attached to the bottom of the pouch, passing between the legs and attaching to the waistband at the middle of the back. A strapless garment, called a jock sock or sometimes a slingshot , [11] (#cite_note-11) has only an elastic waist band with an elastic pouch that holds the genitals from the front. In Europe (/wiki/Europe) , from the time of the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) , undergarments available were limited to a loose fitting trouser-like piece of clothing called a braies (/wiki/Braies) . This article of clothing was stepped into and then laced or tied around the waist and legs at about mid-calf and provided no support to the male genitals. This allowed the scrotum unlimited movement under clothing and resulted in injury from carts, carriages with wooden planks for seats or the saddle as the body took all of the force of the motion. The suspensory was developed around the early 1820s as a way to lift the scrotum (/wiki/Scrotum) away from the plank seat and saddle thereby preventing injury while in a cart, carriage or horseback riding. Today the suspensory is used primarily as a medical device after genital surgery (/wiki/Surgery) to aid in post operative healing. General Custer's (/wiki/George_Armstrong_Custer) suspensory can be seen in the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument (/wiki/Little_Bighorn_Battlefield_National_Monument) museum, near Crow Agency Montana (/wiki/Montana) . Protective cup [ edit ] Main article: Protective gear in sports (/wiki/Protective_gear_in_sports) Banana-style cup, down position Traditional cup, up position Optional cups offer additional protection for contact sports and are made of hard plastic or steel, perforated for ventilation. [12] (#cite_note-web.archive.org-12) A more flexible and comfortable soft cup is also offered for low contact sports such as soccer. A flex cup variation features a hard exterior melded with a soft lining. A similar piece of protective equipment in the sport of cricket (/wiki/Cricket) is known as a box (/wiki/Box_(cricket)) . In cricket, a box is usually worn by only a batsman, a wicket-keeper, and sometimes other close-up fielders. For fielders farther from the batsman, the wearing of a box would impede their movement and running (for batsmen the benefits outweigh the disadvantages). An abdominal guard (also called "compression cup", "box", or "L Guard") is a hard usually plastic cup that is inserted in a jockstrap to protect male genitalia (/wiki/Human_male_genitalia) . Some jockstraps have a lined front pouch for this purpose. The abdominal guard is usually constructed from high density plastic with a padded edge, shaped like a hollow half-pear, and inserted into the jockstrap or jockstrap-style underwear of the batsmen and wicket-keeper. This is used to protect the genitals against impact from the ball. Many sports require the use of an athletic cup. These include cricket (/wiki/Cricket) , fencing (/wiki/Fencing) , martial arts (/wiki/Martial_arts) , boxing (/wiki/Boxing) , lacrosse (/wiki/Lacrosse) , hockey (/wiki/Hockey) , baseball (/wiki/Baseball) , paintball (/wiki/Paintball) , football (/wiki/Football) and many others. Fashion jocks often incorporate soft-lined front pouches or they may be designed to bring the male genitalia forward or upward. The purpose of these modifications is to enhance the masculine appearance of the wearer. Wearers of fashion jocks may also wear abdominal guards for the same purpose. Pelvic protectors (/wiki/Pelvic_protector) exist to protect female genitalia (/wiki/Female_genitalia) , though these are less widespread. With the decline in the use of jockstraps in sports, the use of the necessary abdominal guard has also declined despite the safety implications. Typically cups are worn in the pouch of a jockstrap which may be double-lined to hold the cup, or in compression shorts (/wiki/Compression_shorts) or sport-specific briefs. Cups for some combat sports (e.g. mixed martial arts, kick boxing) have a waistband and straps attached directly to the cup designed to be worn over a regular jockstrap or briefs. Some sports such as boxing (/wiki/Boxing) use an oversized cup and jock combined into a single item which has layered foam padding that protects the groin, kidneys and abdomen. Jockstraps for women [ edit ] The pelvic protector is the female equivalent of the male jockstrap. It is currently unclear who was responsible for the first invention of the female pelvic protector. It is designed to protect the female genitalia from bruising or tearing. The area protected includes the entire vulva (/wiki/Human_vulva) , including the clitoris (/wiki/Clitoris) , the clitoral hood (/wiki/Clitoral_hood) and the delicate labia minora (/wiki/Labia_minora) which protrude from the vulva in some women and are therefore especially vulnerable to bruising from impact. It is also occasionally nicknamed a "jill" or " jillstrap ". [13] (#cite_note-13) Women wear the garment during contact sports or activities. The garment cups around the genitals and is usually reinforced with rigid material. Gay subculture [ edit ] Selection of different jockstraps as fashionable men's underwear without jockstrap protection in a German boutique in the red-light district of Hanover (/wiki/Hanover) , Germany. Since the 1950s and 1960s, some gay men (/wiki/Gay_men) use jockstraps as an erotic attire (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) , particularly those belonging to the leather (/wiki/Leather_subculture) and BDSM (/wiki/BDSM) subcultures. [14] (#cite_note-14) The garment has become especially popular between gay men and LGBT+ individuals (/wiki/LGBT_community) in the 2020s, with major brands producing rainbow (/wiki/Rainbow_flag_(LGBT)) -colored, pride (/wiki/LGBT_pride) -themed jockstraps. [8] (#cite_note-:0-8) [9] (#cite_note-:1-9) Gallery [ edit ] Vintage photograph of a bodybuilder Marpage jockstrap and packaging, c. 1930 This Mizpah supporter ad, from a 1922 magazine, appeared in the A&E documentary Unmentionables A black jockstrap Franklin cup supporter A form of a cup, as worn by male cricket players. See also [ edit ] Baseball portal (/wiki/Portal:Baseball) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Baseball clothing and equipment (/wiki/Baseball_clothing_and_equipment) BIKE Athletic Company (/wiki/BIKE_Athletic_Company) Cricket clothing and equipment (/wiki/Cricket_clothing_and_equipment) Russell Crowe's jockstrap (/wiki/Russell_Crowe%27s_jockstrap) Tinea cruris (/wiki/Tinea_cruris) , more commonly known as "jock itch" References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-bikehistory_1-0) "Bike History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071124113927/http://www.bikeathletic.com/History.aspx) . Bike Athletic . Archived from the original (http://www.bikeathletic.com/History.aspx) on November 24, 2007. (archived from the original (http://www.bikeathletic.com/History.aspx) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20071124113927/http://www.bikeathletic.com/History.aspx) November 24, 2007, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) on 2007-11-24). ^ (#cite_ref-davis2007_2-0) Davis, Michael (2007). Art of Dress Designing . Global Media. p. 107. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-904575-7-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Chisholm, Hugh (/wiki/Hugh_Chisholm) , ed. (1911). "Jockey" (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/1911_Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica/Jockey) . Encyclopædia Britannica (/wiki/Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica_Eleventh_Edition) . Vol. 15 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 427. ^ Jump up to: a b "Jock" (http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?l=j&p=3) . Online Etymology . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Maoui, Zak (August 25, 2023). "How the jockstrap took over men's fashion" (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/jockstrap-trend-menswear-2023) . British GQ . Retrieved June 5, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The surprisingly unisex history of the thong" (https://www.mic.com/articles/180413/the-surprisingly-unisex-history-of-the-thong) . Mic . Retrieved November 26, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Kimmel, Michael; Milrod, Christine; Kennedy, Amanda (2014). Cultural Encyclopedia of the Penis . Rowman & Littlefield. p. 97. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7591-2314-4 . ^ Jump up to: a b Criales-Unzueta, Jose (June 3, 2022). "With Jockstraps Hitting the Runways, Fashion is Saying Gay Loud and Clear" (https://www.vogue.com/article/fashion-jockstraps) . Vogue . Retrieved November 26, 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Toumazou, Aaron (February 6, 2021). "The manifold reasons to invest in a jockstrap" (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/gallery/best-jockstraps) . British GQ . Retrieved November 26, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Leather Jockstraps" (http://www.internationaljock.com/articles/leather-jockstraps.html) . Internationaljock.com . Retrieved January 11, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "A History of the Jockstrap" (http://www.jockstrapcentral.com/history.php) . Jockstrap Central . Retrieved January 11, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-web.archive.org_12-0) "Jockstrap and Cup Historical Background" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070821141215/http://www.jockstrappedstuds.com/pages/news/jock_cup_hist.htm) . The Jockstrap and Cup Site . August 21, 2007. Archived from the original (http://www.jockstrappedstuds.com/pages/news/jock_cup_hist.htm) on August 21, 2007 . Retrieved July 19, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Hedley, Cara (2007). Twenty Miles . Coach House Books. p. 69. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-5524-5186-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "How The Jockstrap Became Part Of The Gay Male Uniform" (https://inmagazine.ca/2019/02/how-the-jockstrap-became-part-of-the-gay-male-uniform/) . inmagazine.ca . February 28, 2019 . Retrieved August 8, 2022 . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jockstrap&oldid=1235988767 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jockstrap&oldid=1235988767) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1870s fashion (/wiki/Category:1870s_fashion) 1874 introductions (/wiki/Category:1874_introductions) 19th-century fashion (/wiki/Category:19th-century_fashion) 20th-century fashion (/wiki/Category:20th-century_fashion) American inventions (/wiki/Category:American_inventions) Protective gear (/wiki/Category:Protective_gear) Sportswear (/wiki/Category:Sportswear) Undergarments (/wiki/Category:Undergarments) Hidden categories: Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links) Wikipedia articles incorporating a citation from the 1911 Encyclopaedia Britannica with Wikisource reference (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_incorporating_a_citation_from_the_1911_Encyclopaedia_Britannica_with_Wikisource_reference) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Use mdy dates from June 2019 (/wiki/Category:Use_mdy_dates_from_June_2019) Commons category link is on Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_on_Wikidata) |
French multinational cosmetics and beauty company "Loreal" redirects here. For its use as an adjective (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/loreal) , see Lore (anatomy) (/wiki/Lore_(anatomy)) and Folklore (/wiki/Folklore) . L'Oréal Company type Société Anonyme (/wiki/S.A._(corporation)) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) Euronext Paris (/wiki/Euronext_Paris) : OR (https://euronext.com/products/equities/FR0000120321-XPAR) CAC 40 (/wiki/CAC_40) component ISIN (/wiki/International_Securities_Identification_Number) FR0000120321 (https://isin.toolforge.org/?language=en&isin=FR0000120321) Industry Consumer goods (/wiki/Fast-moving_consumer_goods) Founded 30 July 1909 ; 114 years ago ( 1909-07-30 ) Founder Eugène Schueller (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Schueller) Headquarters Clichy (/wiki/Clichy,_Hauts-de-Seine) , France (/wiki/France) Area served Worldwide Key people Eugene Kwok (/w/index.php?title=Eugene_Kwok&action=edit&redlink=1) Jean-Paul Agon (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Agon) (Chairman) Françoise Bettencourt Meyers (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7oise_Bettencourt_Meyers) (Vice Chairman) Nicolas Hieronimus (/wiki/Nicolas_Hieronimus) (CEO) Products Cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) skin care (/wiki/Skin_care) perfume (/wiki/Perfume) hair color (/wiki/Hair_coloring) hair care (/wiki/Hairstyling_product) Revenue € (/wiki/Euro) 41.18 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR2015-1) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €8.14 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR2015-1) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €6.18 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR2015-1) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €51.85 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR2015-1) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €29.08 billion (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR2015-1) Number of employees 88,000 (2019) [1] (#cite_note-AR2015-1) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Garnier (/wiki/Garnier) Kiehl's (/wiki/Kiehl%27s) Lancôme (/wiki/Lanc%C3%B4me) Maybelline (/wiki/Maybelline) NYX Cosmetics (/wiki/NYX_Cosmetics) CeraVe (/wiki/CeraVe) AcneFree (/wiki/AcneFree) Ambi Matrix Essentials Aesop (/wiki/Aesop_(brand)) Website www (https://www.loreal.com/) .loreal (https://www.loreal.com/) .com (https://www.loreal.com/) L'Oréal S.A. ( French: [lɔʁe.al] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ) is a French multinational personal care (/wiki/Personal_care) company headquartered in Clichy (/wiki/Clichy,_Hauts-de-Seine) , Hauts-de-Seine (/wiki/Hauts-de-Seine) , [2] (#cite_note-2) with a registered office in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . [3] (#cite_note-:3-3) As of 2018, it was the world's largest cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) company and has developed activities in the field, concentrating on hair color (/wiki/Hair_coloring) , skin care (/wiki/Cosmetics) , sun protection (/wiki/Sunscreen) , make-up (/wiki/Make-up) , perfume (/wiki/Perfume) , and hair care (/wiki/Hairstyling_product) . [4] (#cite_note-4) History [ edit ] Founding [ edit ] In the early 20th century, Eugène Paul Louis Schueller (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Schueller) (1881–1957), a young French (/wiki/French_people) chemist (/wiki/Chemist) , developed a hair dye (/wiki/Hair_coloring) formula called Oréale . Schueller formulated and manufactured his own products, which he sold to Parisian (/wiki/Paris) hairdressers. [5] (#cite_note-:5-5) [6] (#cite_note-:6-6) On 31 July 1909, Schueller registered his company, [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) the Société Française de Teintures Inoffensives pour Cheveux (Safe Hair Dye Company of France). The company eventually became L'Oréal. In 1920, the company employed three chemists; the number of employees continued to grow with 100 by the year 1950, and 1,000 by the year 1984; as recently as 2021, there was an estimated total of 85,252 worldwide. [8] (#cite_note-8) L'Oréal got its start in the hair-color business, but the company soon branched out into other cleansing and beauty products. As of 2020, L'Oréal markets in all sectors of the beauty business: hair color, permanents, hair styling (/wiki/Hairstyle) , body and skincare, cleansers, makeup, and fragrance. The company's products are found in a wide variety of outlets, from hair salons and perfumeries to supermarkets, health/beauty outlets, pharmacies, and direct mail. [5] (#cite_note-:5-5) [6] (#cite_note-:6-6) Recent History [ edit ] In 2017, Liliane Bettencourt (/wiki/Liliane_Bettencourt) the daughter of the founder of L'Oréal, died and left the business to her daughter, Françoise Bettencourt Meyers (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7oise_Bettencourt_Meyers) . [5] (#cite_note-:5-5) Media [ edit ] In 1988–89, L'Oréal controlled the film company Paravision International (/wiki/Paravision_International) , whose properties included the Filmation (/wiki/Filmation) and De Laurentiis (/wiki/De_Laurentiis_Entertainment_Group) libraries. StudioCanal (/wiki/StudioCanal) acquired the Paravision properties in 1994. [ citation needed ] Acquisitions [ edit ] As of 2022, L'Oréal owned 36 brands. As of October 4, 2021, the company registered 497 patents. [9] (#cite_note-9) L'Oréal purchased Synthélabo in 1973 to pursue its ambitions in the pharmaceutical field. Synthélabo merged with Sanofi (/wiki/Sanofi) in 1999 to become Sanofi-Synthélabo (/wiki/Sanofi-Synth%C3%A9labo) . Sanofi-Synthélabo merged with Aventis (/wiki/Aventis) in 2004 to become Sanofi-Aventis (/wiki/Sanofi-Aventis) . [10] (#cite_note-10) On 17 March 2006, L'Oréal purchased cosmetics company The Body Shop (/wiki/The_Body_Shop) for £ (/wiki/Pound_sterling) 562 million. [11] (#cite_note-11) In May 2008, L'Oréal acquired YSL Beauté for $1.8 billion. [12] (#cite_note-12) In January 2014, L'Oréal finalized the acquisition of major Chinese (/wiki/China) beauty brand Magic Holdings for $840 million. [13] (#cite_note-13) In February 2014, L'Oréal agreed to buy back 8% of its shares for €3.4bn from Nestlé (/wiki/Nestl%C3%A9) . As a result, Nestlé's stake in L'Oréal was reduced from 29.4% to 23.29%, while the Bettencourt Meyers family's stake increased from 30.6% to 33.2%. Nestlé has owned a stake in L'Oréal since 1974, when it bought into the company at the request of Liliane Bettencourt (/wiki/Liliane_Bettencourt) , the daughter of the founder of L'Oréal, who was trying to prevent French state intervention. [14] (#cite_note-14) In February 2014, Shiseido (/wiki/Shiseido) agreed to sell its Carita and Decléor brands to L'Oréal for €227.5 million (US$312.93 million (2014)). [15] (#cite_note-Shiseido_Sells_Carita,_Decléor_to_L'Oréal-15) In June 2014, L'Oréal agreed to acquire NYX Cosmetics (/wiki/NYX_Cosmetics) for an undisclosed price, bolstering its makeup offerings in North America (/wiki/North_America) , where its consumer-products unit has faltered. [16] (#cite_note-16) In September 2014, L'Oréal announced it had agreed to purchase Brazilian hair care company Niely Cosmeticos Group for an undisclosed amount. [17] (#cite_note-17) In September 2014, L'Oréal acquired the multi-cultural brand Carol's Daughter. [18] (#cite_note-18) In July 2016, L'Oréal agreed to acquire IT Cosmetics for $1.2 billion. [19] (#cite_note-19) In March 2018, L'Oréal acquired the beauty augmented reality company ModiFace. [20] (#cite_note-20) In May 2018, L'Oréal announced a new beauty and fragrance partnership with Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) . [21] (#cite_note-21) In December 2020, L'Oréal announced signing of an agreement for the acquisition of Takami Co, a Japanese company that markets the premium skincare brand Takami, particularly famous for its iconic product, the Skin Peel pre-serum. [22] (#cite_note-22) In December 2021, L'Oréal announced the acquisition of the vegan skincare brand Youth to the People. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) In April 2023, L'Oréal purchased Australian luxury cosmetics brand Aesop (/wiki/Aesop_(brand)) for US$2.53 billion . [25] (#cite_note-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) In August 2023, it was announced the acquisition had been completed. [28] (#cite_note-28) In December 2023, L'Oréal announced its acquisition of the Danish research company Lactobio. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) In January 2024, L’Oréal announced its acquisition of Gjosa, a Swiss Pioneering Water Conservation Tech Startup. [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) In February 2024, L’Oréal announced its signing of a long-term global licensing agreement for the creation, development and distribution of luxury beauty products by the Italian brand Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) . [33] (#cite_note-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) Marketing [ edit ] In Kosovo, during the growth years of the mail-order business, L'Oréal and 3 Suisses (/wiki/3_Suisses) founded Le Club des Créateurs de Beauté for mail-order sales of cosmetic products, with brands including Agnès b., Commence and Professeur Christine Poelman among others. In March 2008, L'Oréal acquired 3 Suisse's stake, taking sole control of the company. [35] (#cite_note-35) In November 2013, L'Oréal announced that Le Club des Créateurs de Beauté would cease activity in the first half of 2014. [36] (#cite_note-36) Since 1997, L'Oréal has been an official partner of The Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/The_Cannes_Film_Festival) . [37] (#cite_note-37) In the years of L'Oréal sponsorship, many L'Oréal beauty ambassadors walked the red carpet of the Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/Cannes_Film_Festival) . In 2017, L'Oréal beauty ambassadors, including Julianne Moore (/wiki/Julianne_Moore) , Susan Sarandon (/wiki/Susan_Sarandon) , Andie MacDowell (/wiki/Andie_MacDowell) , and Eva Longoria (/wiki/Eva_Longoria) , were responsible for the film selection for the outdoor cinema during the Cannes Film Festival. [38] (#cite_note-38) L'Oréal's advertising slogan (/wiki/Advertising_slogan) , "Because I'm worth it", was created by a 23-year-old English art director and introduced in 1973 by the model and actress Joanne Dusseau. [39] (#cite_note-39) In the mid-2000s, this was replaced by "Because you're worth it". In late-2009, the slogan was changed again to "Because we're worth it". [40] (#cite_note-40) [41] (#cite_note-41) In November 2012, L'Oréal inaugurated the largest factory in the Jababeka Industrial Park, Cikarang (/wiki/Cikarang) , Indonesia, with a total investment of US$100 million. [42] (#cite_note-42) The production will be absorbed 25 percent by the domestic market and the rest will be exported. In 2010, significant growth occurred in Indonesia with a 61 percent increase of unit sales or 28 percent of net sales. [43] (#cite_note-43) In November 2020, chief digital officer (/wiki/Chief_digital_officer) Lubomira Rochet reported in a video conference of the growing importance of e-commerce for the company, remarking that e-commerce makes 24% of their turnover in the third quarter of the year. Rochet stated as well that this 24% of the turnover "made it possible to offset 50% of the losses due to the closing of physical stores this year". [44] (#cite_note-44) Corporate affairs [ edit ] Head office [ edit ] L'Oréal Group has its head office in the Centre Eugène Schueller (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Schueller) in Clichy, Hauts-de-Seine (/wiki/Clichy,_Hauts-de-Seine) , close to Paris (/wiki/Paris) . [45] (#cite_note-45) The building, constructed in the 1970s from brick and steel, replaced the former Monsavon factory, and employees moved into the facility in 1978. 1,400 employees work in the building. [46] (#cite_note-46) In 2005, Nils Klawitter of Der Spiegel (/wiki/Der_Spiegel) said "the building, with its brown glazed façade of windows, is every bit as ugly as its neighbourhood." Klawitter added that the facility "gives the impression of a high-security zone" due to the CCTV (/wiki/Closed-circuit_television) cameras and security equipment. [47] (#cite_note-47) International units include: L'Oréal USA, changed from Cosmair in 2000 [48] (#cite_note-48) - has its headquarters in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , and is responsible for operations in the Americas (/wiki/Americas) . [49] (#cite_note-L'Oréal_USA-49) L'Oréal Canada Incorporated - Canadian operations, based in Montreal (/wiki/Montreal) L'Oréal Australia - head office is in Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) L'Oréal Nordic - head office is in Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen) , Denmark L'ORÉAL Deutschland GmbH - legal seat is in Karlsruhe (/wiki/Karlsruhe) , head office is in Düsseldorf (/wiki/D%C3%BCsseldorf) [50] (#cite_note-50) Research and development facilities [ edit ] L'Oréal has 21 worldwide research and development centers: three global centers in France (/wiki/France) : Aulnay (/wiki/Aulnay-sous-Bois) , Chevilly (/wiki/Chevilly-Larue) and Saint-Ouen. Six regional poles include one in the United States (/wiki/United_States) : Clark (/wiki/Clark,_New_Jersey) , New Jersey (/wiki/New_Jersey) ; one in Japan (/wiki/Japan) : Kawasaki (/wiki/Kawasaki,_Kanagawa) , Kanagawa Prefecture (/wiki/Kanagawa_Prefecture) ; in 2005, one was established in Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai) , China (/wiki/People%27s_Republic_of_China) , another in India (/wiki/India) : Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) , one other regional pole in Brazil (/wiki/Brazil) : Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) and, lastly, another was established in South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) : Johannesburg (/wiki/Johannesburg) . [51] (#cite_note-51) Corporate governance [ edit ] Jean-Paul Agon (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Agon) is the chairman (/wiki/Chairman) and Nicolas Hieronimus (/wiki/Nicolas_Hieronimus) the chief executive officer (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) of L'Oréal. [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-governance-53) Françoise Bettencourt Meyers (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7oise_Bettencourt_Meyers) and Paul Bulcke (/wiki/Paul_Bulcke) are vice chairmen of the board of directors (/wiki/Board_of_directors) . [53] (#cite_note-governance-53) Stockholders [ edit ] As of 31 December 2023: [54] (#cite_note-54) Breakdown of share ownership: 34.73% by the Bettencourt (/wiki/Liliane_Bettencourt) family, 30.7% by international institutional investors, 20.13% by Nestlé (/wiki/Nestl%C3%A9) , 6.63% by French institutional investors, 5.92% by individual shareholders, 1.89% by employees. Business figures [ edit ] Countries with L'Oréal products available Financial data in € billions [55] (#cite_note-55) Year 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 Revenue (/wiki/Revenue) 22.977 22.532 25.257 25.837 26.024 26.937 29.874 27.992 32.288 38.261 41.183 Net Income (/wiki/Net_Income) 2.958 4.910 3.297 3.106 3.586 3.895 3.750 3.563 4.597 5.707 6.184 Assets (/wiki/Assets) 31.298 32.063 33.711 35.630 35.339 38.458 43.810 43.607 43.013 46.844 51.855 Employees 77,452 78,611 82,881 89,331 82,606 86,030 87,974 85,392 85,412 87,264 Joint ventures and minority interests [ edit ] L'Oréal holds 10.41% of the shares of Sanofi-Aventis (/wiki/Sanofi-Aventis) , the world's number three and Europe's number one pharmaceutical company. The Laboratoires Innéov is a joint venture (/wiki/Joint_venture) in nutritional cosmetics between L'Oréal and Nestlé (/wiki/Nestl%C3%A9) ; they draw on Nestlé's knowledge in the fields of nutrition (/wiki/Nutrition) and food safety (/wiki/Food_safety) . Corporate social responsibility [ edit ] Position on animal testing [ edit ] L'Oréal has many products which are tested on animals. Since the 1980s, L'Oréal has invested €900 million in researching alternatives to animal testing (/wiki/Alternatives_to_animal_testing) for product safety, using methods such as reconstructed skin models, such as the Episkin model [56] (#cite_note-56) at their research centres in Gerland, France, and Pudong (/wiki/Pudong) , China. [57] (#cite_note-57) Nevertheless, this is complicated by markets such as China, [58] (#cite_note-bweekchina-58) where it is difficult to sell a beauty product without animal testing. [59] (#cite_note-59) Cosmetics by brands such as The Body Shop (/wiki/The_Body_Shop) , which refuse to do animal testing (/wiki/Animal_testing) , are thus not sold in China. In 2013, L'Oréal was part of a consortium calling on the EU to invest more in research on alternatives to animal testing. [60] (#cite_note-60) Promoting new methods for plastic recycling [ edit ] In 2020, L'Oreal announced a cooperation with French biochemistry pioneer Carbios (/wiki/Carbios) , aiming to establish a method of dissolving plastic waste by using enzymes. [61] (#cite_note-61) Ukraine war [ edit ] In 2022, L’Oréal Paris donated €1 million ($1.09 million) to charities supporting refugees from the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine (/wiki/2022_Russian_invasion_of_Ukraine) . [62] (#cite_note-62) L’Oréal Paris also suspended all commercial activity in Russia, both retail and wholesale. [63] (#cite_note-63) After the suspension, L'Oreal increased cooperation with other sites, including sanctioned ones. The company officially works in Crimea. Advertising expenses were not stopped - all investments were suspended for only 2-3 months. Now everything has been restored and even increased. The delivery of goods through Turkey and Kazakhstan was arranged. [64] (#cite_note-64) The company also supplies hygiene products to hospitals, maternity homes, centers with forcibly displaced persons, homes for the elderly, the military, etc. [65] (#cite_note-65) L’Oréal Paris financially support employees in Ukraine, guaranteeing the payment of wages and providing additional financial assistance, and provide accommodation for employees who are abroad and assist with temporary employment in other L'Oréal branches. [66] (#cite_note-66) Controversy [ edit ] Involvement in fascism by L'Oréal key figures [ edit ] L'Oréal has conceded that its founder, Eugène Schueller (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Schueller) , was a Nazi (/wiki/Nazi) sympathizer and antisemitic (/wiki/Antisemitism) fascist (/wiki/Fascist) . [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-Business_Notes_Scandal_L'Oreal's-68) He was also a member of La Cagoule (/wiki/La_Cagoule) , which supported the Vichy regime (/wiki/Vichy_France) , and was a violent, pro-fascist and anti-communist organisation. Eugène bankrolled La Cagoule and some meetings of La Cagoule were held at L'Oréal headquarters. Some of the criminal activities perpetrated by La Cagoule include firearms transportation, assassinating a former minister, and firebombing six synagogues. [69] (#cite_note-André_Bettencourt-69) [70] (#cite_note-Pascal-70) Schueller provided financial support and held meetings for La Cagoule (/wiki/La_Cagoule) at L'Oréal headquarters. La Cagoule was a violent French fascist (/wiki/Fascist) -leaning and anti- communist (/wiki/Communist) group whose leader formed a political party Mouvement Social Révolutionnaire (/wiki/Mouvement_Social_R%C3%A9volutionnaire) (MSR, Social Revolutionary Movement), which in Occupied France supported the Vichy collaboration with the Germans. [71] (#cite_note-71) L'Oréal hired several members of the group as executives after World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , such as Jacques Corrèze (/wiki/Jacques_Corr%C3%A8ze) , who served as CEO of the United States operation. [72] (#cite_note-72) [73] (#cite_note-73) Other controversy arose when Jean Frydman (/wiki/Jean_Frydman) , a shareholder and board member of Paravision, a film subsidiary of L'Oréal, was fired. He claims that he was let go because L'Oréal wanted to avoid an Arab boycott of businesses associated with Jews. In turn, Frydman decided to expose the past of L'Oréal executives. André Bettencourt (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Bettencourt) who married Schueller's daughter, Liliane Bettencourt (/wiki/Liliane_Bettencourt) , and became deputy chairman for L'Oréal, wrote 60 articles for La Terre Française. La Terre Française was an antisemitic Nazi propaganda sheet. André has admitted ownership of the propaganda (/wiki/Propaganda) but claimed he was poisoned by the Vichy regime and said, "I have repeatedly expressed my regrets concerning them in public and will always beg the Jewish community to forgive me for them." [69] (#cite_note-André_Bettencourt-69) André Bettencourt also sheltered Schueller and several collaborators from the French Resistance (/wiki/French_Resistance) after Liberation. [70] (#cite_note-Pascal-70) It was also revealed that Eugène Schueller hired Jacques Correze (/wiki/Jacques_Correze) , who was the honorary head of L'Oréal's U.S. affiliate, Cosmair, and was involved with La Cagoule. [68] (#cite_note-Business_Notes_Scandal_L'Oreal's-68) Further controversy arose when it was revealed that L'Oréal had its German headquarters for over 30 years, before being sold in 1991, on land confiscated from a Jewish family during World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) . The Jewish family has been battling for restitution from the company for three generations, the latest of which is Edith Rosenfelder, a Holocaust (/wiki/The_Holocaust) survivor. Fritz Rosenfelder was forced to sell the house to a Nazi official, of which the family never received the proceeds of the sale. Instead, the family was deported. The Allies passed Jewish restitution legislation which states that transactions with Nazis, even if appearing to be with the owner's consent, can be considered invalid. As the land was sold to an offshoot of L'Oréal, which was later bought out in 1961 by L'Oréal, the company claims that it is not responsible for anything that happened before then. The basis for Rosenfelder's argument is that since the original sale was illegal, all subsequent sales are equally unlawful. There was restitution paid in 1951 to the Jewish Restitution Successor Organization (/wiki/Jewish_Restitution_Successor_Organization) , though this was done without the family's consent and none of the money ever reached the family. A book by Monica Waitzfelder, daughter of Edith Rosenfelder, published in French as L'Oréal a pris ma maison and in English as L'Oréal stole my house! , details how L'Oréal took over the Waitzfelder home in the German (/wiki/Germany) city of Karlsruhe (after the Nazis had engineered the removal of the family) to make it its German headquarters. [74] (#cite_note-Gentleman-74) Monica Waitzfelder is quoted as saying, "All the other businesses which took Jewish property have since returned it, without any great debate. I don't understand why L'Oréal should be any different from the others." A case was brought before the Supreme Court in France, but the public prosecutor ruled that there could be no trial. As of 2007, she is bringing the case to the European Court of Human Rights (/wiki/European_Court_of_Human_Rights) . [70] (#cite_note-Pascal-70) [74] (#cite_note-Gentleman-74) Garnier boycott [ edit ] On 31 July 2014 during Operation Protective Edge (/wiki/Operation_Protective_Edge) launched by the Israel Defense Forces (IDF) in the Gaza Strip, the Israel advocacy organisation StandWithUs (/wiki/StandWithUs) posted several Facebook photos of care packages, which they said were donated by Garnier Israel to female IDF soldiers. [75] (#cite_note-75) [76] (#cite_note-76) [77] (#cite_note-77) This sparked several calls to boycott Garnier and L'Oréal worldwide. [78] (#cite_note-78) Garnier disavowed the giveaway and stated on their Facebook page, “Garnier USA is aware of recent activity in social media. It is very important to us that our fans know that Garnier worldwide promotes peace and harmony and has a strict policy of not getting involved in any conflict or political matter. Garnier was astonished to discover this in social media. After investigation, the hand-out of about 500 products appeared to be part of a one-time local retailer initiative. Garnier disapproves of this initiative managed strictly at local level and is very sorry to have offended some of its fans.” [79] (#cite_note-79) Animal testing [ edit ] L'Oréal began in vitro (/wiki/In_vitro) tissue testing in 1979, and does not test any of its products or ingredients on animals anywhere in the world since 1989–14 years before it was required by regulation. [80] (#cite_note-80) Controversy came from the fact that L'Oréal sells products in China, whose regulators conduct animal testing on cosmetics to be sold within its territory. Even though a ban on animal testing in China came into effect in January 2020, Chinese authorities still perform this practice for imported "ordinary" cosmetics. [81] (#cite_note-81) [82] (#cite_note-82) Following L'Oréal's 2006 purchase of The Body Shop (/wiki/The_Body_Shop) , which does not support animal testing (/wiki/Animal_testing) , The Body Shop's founder Anita Roddick (/wiki/Anita_Roddick) was forced to defend herself against allegations of "abandoning her principles" over L'Oréal's involvement on animal testing. Calls were made for shoppers to boycott The Body Shop. [83] (#cite_note-83) L'Oréal sold The Body Shop to Brazilian group Natura Cosméticos in 2017. [84] (#cite_note-84) Racist discrimination lawsuits [ edit ] On 11 August 2005, the Supreme Court of California (/wiki/Supreme_Court_of_California) ruled that former L'Oréal sales manager Elyse Yanowitz had adequately pleaded a cause of action for retaliatory termination under the California Fair Employment and Housing Act (/wiki/California_Fair_Employment_and_Housing_Act) , and remanded the case for trial. [85] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-85) The case arose out of a 1997 incident in which Jack Wiswall, then the general manager for designer fragrances, allegedly told Yanowitz to fire a dark-skinned (/wiki/Person_of_color) sales associate despite the associate's good performance. When Yanowitz refused, Wiswall pointed to a "sexy" blonde-haired woman and said, "God damn it, get me one that looks like that." Wiswall retired as president of the luxury products division of L'Oréal USA at the end of 2006. [85] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-85) The company has recently faced discrimination lawsuits in France related to the hiring of spokesmodels and institutional racism (/wiki/Institutional_racism) . In July 2007, the Garnier (/wiki/Garnier) division and an external employment agency were fined €30,000 for recruitment practices that intentionally excluded women of color from promoting its hair wash, "Fructis Style". [86] (#cite_note-86) L'Oréal continues to sell skin whitening products, which have been criticized as "capitalising on women's insecurities due to colourism (/wiki/Colourism) ." They advertise these controversial products, which have been criticised for promoting a colonial attitude as well as having safety concerns, [87] (#cite_note-87) on their website by claiming; "Achieve clear, translucent and radiant skin. Our skin whitening products work to fade dark spots and brighten skin to give you the fair, flawless complexion you desire." [88] (#cite_note-88) False advertising [ edit ] In May 2007, L'Oréal was one of several cosmetic manufacturers (along with Clinique, Estee Lauder, Payot, Lancôme) [89] (#cite_note-89) ordered by the Therapeutic Goods Administration (/wiki/Therapeutic_Goods_Administration) in Australia to withdraw advertising regarding the wrinkle (/wiki/Wrinkle_(skin)) removal capabilities of their products. [90] (#cite_note-90) In the UK, L'Oréal has faced criticism from OFCOM (/wiki/OFCOM) regarding the truth of their advertising and marketing campaigns concerning the product performance of one of their mascara brands. In July 2007, the British Advertising Standards Authority (/wiki/Advertising_Standards_Authority_(United_Kingdom)) attacked L'Oréal for a television advert on its "Telescopic" mascara (/wiki/Mascara) , featuring Penélope Cruz (/wiki/Pen%C3%A9lope_Cruz) , stating, "it will make your eyelashes (/wiki/Eyelash) 60% longer." In fact, it only made the lashes look 60% bigger, by separating and thickening at the roots and by thickening the tips of the lashes. They also failed to state that the model was wearing false eyelashes (/wiki/Eyelash_extensions) . [91] (#cite_note-91) In July 2011, the British Advertising Standards Authority took action against L'Oréal, banning two airbrushed Lancôme (/wiki/Lanc%C3%B4me) advertisements in the UK featuring actress Julia Roberts (/wiki/Julia_Roberts) and supermodel Christy Turlington (/wiki/Christy_Turlington) . The agency issued the ban after British politician Jo Swinson (/wiki/Jo_Swinson) argued that the two ads misrepresented reality and added to the self-image problem amongst females in the UK. L'Oréal acknowledged that the photos had been airbrushed but argued that the two cosmetic products could actually produce the results depicted in the ads and that the results of the products had been scientifically proven. [92] (#cite_note-92) In June 2014, the company reached an agreement with the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (/wiki/Federal_Trade_Commission) not to make claims about its anti-aging products unless it had credible scientific evidence supporting the claims. The settlement followed an investigation by the commission into claims being made in relation to two products, which the commission described as "false and unsubstantiated". L'Oréal has a team of 400 members of staff who post content to Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) every day, according to Marc Menesguen, the company's chief marketing officer. [93] (#cite_note-93) Patent lawsuit [ edit ] In July 2017, the University of Massachusetts (/wiki/University_of_Massachusetts) Medical filed a patent lawsuit against L'Oréal. In August 2017, Dennis Wyrzykowski and his company, Carmel Laboratories LLC, joined the lawsuit. The two parties claimed that L'Oréal's brands used UMass' patented technology for skin creams with the chemical adenosine (/wiki/Adenosine) . [94] (#cite_note-94) In 2021, a judge found the patents invalid. In 2022, the U.S. Appeals Court (/wiki/United_States_courts_of_appeals) reversed the decision, stating that UMass could continue to purse its lawsuit. [95] (#cite_note-95) Corporate misconduct [ edit ] L'Oréal was fined by Autorité de la concurrence (/wiki/Autorit%C3%A9_de_la_concurrence) in France in 2016 for price-fixing on personal hygiene products. [96] (#cite_note-96) Munroe Bergdorf [ edit ] Main article: Munroe Bergdorf race row incident (/wiki/Munroe_Bergdorf_race_row_incident) In August 2017, L'Oréal dismissed Munroe Bergdorf (/wiki/Munroe_Bergdorf) , a mixed-race (/wiki/Mixed-race) transgender (/wiki/Transgender) model, after she responded to the Unite the Right rally (/wiki/Unite_the_Right_rally) in Charlottesville, Virginia (/wiki/Charlottesville,_Virginia) , by stating in a Facebook post: "Honestly I don't have the energy to talk about the racial violence of white people any more. Yes ALL white people"; the post was also quoted as saying that "[white people's] existence, privilege and success as a race is built on the backs, blood and death of people of colour", "racism isn't learned, it's inherited and ... passed down through privilege" and that "white people" ought to "begin to admit that their race is the most violent and oppressive force of nature on Earth". [97] (#cite_note-97) Shortly after terminating Bergdorf, L'Oréal released a statement claiming their commitment to "[support] diversity and tolerance towards all people irrespective of their race, background, gender and religion" and had terminated their partnership with Bergdorf because her comments were "at odds with those values". [98] (#cite_note-theguardianonthelorealcismrow-98) [99] (#cite_note-nytimeslorealdropstransgendermodel-99) Amber Heard [ edit ] In 2018, L'Oréal Paris hired Amber Heard (/wiki/Amber_Heard) as a Global Ambassador (/wiki/Brand_ambassador) , also giving a special tribute to her. [100] (#cite_note-100) [101] (#cite_note-101) In 2020, after a tape leaked of Heard admitting to having hit her ex-husband Johnny Depp (/wiki/Johnny_Depp) , several petitions were filed requesting L'Oreal to fire her. [102] (#cite_note-102) [103] (#cite_note-103) [104] (#cite_note-104) As of June 2021, L'Oreal continued to include Heard among a team of "ambassadors" that also includes Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) , Jane Fonda (/wiki/Jane_Fonda) , Elle Fanning (/wiki/Elle_Fanning) , and French singer-songwriter Yseult (/wiki/Yseult_(singer)) . [105] (#cite_note-2021WWD_Paris-105) Heard was being sued in a defamation trial (/wiki/Depp_v._Heard) by her ex-husband, Johnny Depp in which he accused her of domestic abuse. She was found to have defamed her ex-husband with malice on June 2, 2022, by a jury; Heard is currently appealing her case. [106] (#cite_note-106) Brand portfolio [ edit ] L'Oréal lipsticks (/wiki/Lipstick) L'Oréal skincare product Brands are generally categorized by their targeted markets, such as the mass, professional, luxury, and active cosmetics markets. Galderma is directly attached to the head office. L'Oréal also owns interests in various activities such as fine chemicals, health, finance, design, advertising, and insurance. [107] (#cite_note-107) [ better source needed ] Consumer products division [ edit ] Essie (/wiki/Essie_Weingarten) Garnier (/wiki/Garnier_Fructis) Maybelline (/wiki/Maybelline) NYX Cosmetics (/wiki/NYX_Cosmetics) L'Oréal luxe division [ edit ] Aesop (/wiki/Aesop_(brand)) Biotherm (/wiki/Biotherm) Cacharel (/wiki/Cacharel) Clarisonic (/wiki/Clarisonic) (Discontinued September 30, 2020) [108] (#cite_note-108) Diesel (/wiki/Diesel_(brand)) Giorgio Armani Beauty (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) Guy Laroche (/wiki/Guy_Laroche) Helena Rubinstein (/wiki/Helena_Rubinstein) Kiehl's (/wiki/Kiehl%27s) Lancôme (/wiki/Lanc%C3%B4me) MUGLER (/wiki/Mugler) Paloma Picasso (/wiki/Paloma_Picasso) Proenza Schouler (/wiki/Proenza_Schouler) Ralph Lauren Fragrances (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren_Corporation) Shu Uemura (/wiki/Shu_Uemura) Urban Decay (/wiki/Urban_Decay_(cosmetics)) Valentino Beauty (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) Viktor & Rolf (/wiki/Viktor_%26_Rolf) Yves Saint Laurent Beauté (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Prada (/wiki/Prada) Professional products division [ edit ] Kérastase (/wiki/K%C3%A9rastase) (created by L'Oreal in 1964) PureOlogy Research (/wiki/Pureology) , founded in 2001 and acquired by L'Oreal in 2007 Redken (/wiki/Redken) 5th Avenue NYC, founded by Paula Kent (/wiki/Paula_Kent) and Jheri Redding (/wiki/Jheri_Redding) in 1960 and acquired by L'Oreal in 1993 Shu Uemura (/wiki/Shu_Uemura) Art of Hair Carol's Daughter (/wiki/Carol%27s_Daughter) Essie (/wiki/Essie) , founded in 1981 and acquired by L'Oreal in 2010 [109] (#cite_note-109) Active cosmetics division [ edit ] Vichy (/w/index.php?title=Vichy_cosmetics&action=edit&redlink=1) La Roche-Posay (/w/index.php?title=La_Roche-Posay_(cosmetics_brand)&action=edit&redlink=1) Skinceuticals Roger&Gallet (/wiki/Roger_%26_Gallet) - sold in 2020 Sanoflore (/w/index.php?title=Sanoflore&action=edit&redlink=1) Dermablend (/w/index.php?title=Dermablend&action=edit&redlink=1) AcneFree (/wiki/AcneFree) Ambi CeraVe Logocos (/w/index.php?title=Logocos&action=edit&redlink=1) since 2018 List of spokespeople [ edit ] L'Oréal Paris has a group of ambassadors, artists, actresses, and activists referred to as the L'Oréal Paris "Dream Team". [110] (#cite_note-110) Laetitia Casta (/wiki/Laetitia_Casta) (1998–present) [111] (#cite_note-111) Eva Longoria (/wiki/Eva_Longoria) (2005–present) [112] (#cite_note-112) Aishwarya Rai (/wiki/Aishwarya_Rai_Bachchan) (2004–present) Blake Lively (/wiki/Blake_Lively) (2013-present) [113] (#cite_note-113) [114] (#cite_note-114) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) (2014–present) [115] (#cite_note-115) [116] (#cite_note-116) Luma Grothe (/wiki/Luma_Grothe) (2015–present) [117] (#cite_note-117) Soo Joo (/wiki/Soo_Joo_Park) (2015–present) [118] (#cite_note-118) Aja Naomi King (/wiki/Aja_Naomi_King) (2017–present) [119] (#cite_note-119) Camilla Cabello (/wiki/Camila_Cabello) (2017–present) [120] (#cite_note-120) Elle Fanning (/wiki/Elle_Fanning) (2017–present) [121] (#cite_note-121) Amber Heard (/wiki/Amber_Heard) (2018–present) [122] (#cite_note-122) Andie MacDowell (/wiki/Andie_MacDowell) (2018–present) [123] (#cite_note-123) Duckie Thot (/wiki/Duckie_Thot) (2018–present) [124] (#cite_note-124) Jaha Dukureh (/wiki/Jaha_Dukureh) (2018–present) [3] (#cite_note-:3-3) [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Céline Dion (/wiki/Celine_Dion) (2019–present) [125] (#cite_note-125) Cindy Bruna (/wiki/Cindy_Bruna) (2020–present) [126] (#cite_note-126) Katherine Langford (/wiki/Katherine_Langford) (2020–present) [127] (#cite_note-127) Viola Davis (/wiki/Viola_Davis) (2021–present) [128] (#cite_note-128) Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) (2021–present) [129] (#cite_note-129) [130] (#cite_note-130) Yseult (/wiki/Yseult_(singer)) (2021–present) [131] (#cite_note-131) [132] (#cite_note-132) H.E.R. (/wiki/H.E.R.) (2022–present) [133] (#cite_note-133) Anushka Sharma (/wiki/Anushka_Sharma) (2022–present) [134] (#cite_note-134) [135] (#cite_note-135) [136] (#cite_note-136) Thuso Mbedu (/wiki/Thuso_Mbedu) (2023–present) [137] (#cite_note-137) [138] (#cite_note-138) Kendall Jenner (/wiki/Kendall_Jenner) (2023–present) [139] (#cite_note-139) [140] (#cite_note-140) [141] (#cite_note-141) Cody Simpson (/wiki/Cody_Simpson) (2023–present) [142] (#cite_note-142) [143] (#cite_note-143) Mary Fowler (/wiki/Mary_Fowler_(soccer)) (2024–present) [144] (#cite_note-144) [145] (#cite_note-145) Simone Ashley (/wiki/Simone_Ashley) (2024-present) [146] (#cite_note-146) Temi Otedola (/wiki/Temi_Otedola) (2024-present) [147] (#cite_note-147) [148] (#cite_note-148) Community involvement [ edit ] In 2014, L'Oreal was listed 61st among 1200 of India's most trusted brands according to the Brand Trust Report 2014, a study conducted by Trust Research Advisory, a brand analytics company. [149] (#cite_note-149) In 2008, L'Oréal was named Europe's top business employer by the European Student Barometer, [150] (#cite_note-150) a survey conducted by Trendence that covers 20 European countries and incorporates the responses of over 91,000 students. The L'Oréal-UNESCO Awards for Women in Science (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al-UNESCO_Awards_for_Women_in_Science) was established to improve the position of women in science by recognizing outstanding women researchers who have contributed to scientific progress. [151] (#cite_note-151) The awards are a result of a partnership between the French cosmetics company L'Oréal and the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization ( UNESCO (/wiki/UNESCO) ) and carry a grant of US$100,000 for each laureate. The same partnership awards the UNESCO-L'Oréal International Fellowships, providing up to US$40,000 in funding over two years to fifteen young women scientists engaged in exemplary and promising research projects. [152] (#cite_note-152) L'Oréal organises the yearly L'Oréal Brandstorm, a business game for students in 46 countries. The game is related to marketing and has a first prize of $10,000, the second prize of $5,000 and the third prize of $2500. L'Oréal is also a founding member of the "Look Good ... Feel Better" project, a charity which was formed over 16 years ago to help women combat the visible side effects of cancer treatment. [ citation needed ] L'Oréal also holds a global competition known as "L'Oréal Brandstorm" each year to invite students from around the world to be creative, innovative, and build their own business plans based around different topics. [ citation needed ] In 2015, Standard Ethics Aei (/wiki/Standard_Ethics_Aei) gave a rating to L'Oreal in order to include it in its Standard Ethics French Index. 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Ozarka (/wiki/Ozarka) Peter's Chocolate (/wiki/Peter%27s_Chocolate) Poland Spring (/wiki/Poland_Spring) Polly Waffle (/wiki/Polly_Waffle) PowerBar (/wiki/PowerBar) Powwow Water (/wiki/Powwow_Water) Rowntree Mackintosh (/wiki/Rowntree_Mackintosh_Confectionery) Violet Crumble (/wiki/Violet_Crumble) Wonder Ball (/wiki/Wonder_Ball) Zephyrhills (/wiki/Zephyrhills_(water)) People Günter Blobel (/wiki/G%C3%BCnter_Blobel) Paul Bulcke (/wiki/Paul_Bulcke) Peter Brabeck-Letmathe (/wiki/Peter_Brabeck-Letmathe) Nobuyuki Idei (/wiki/Nobuyuki_Idei) Henri Nestlé (/wiki/Henri_Nestl%C3%A9) Kaspar Villiger (/wiki/Kaspar_Villiger) Related Nestea European Championship Tour (/wiki/Nestea_European_Championship_Tour) 1977 Nestlé boycott (/wiki/1977_Nestl%C3%A9_boycott) Nestlé Invitational (/wiki/Arnold_Palmer_Invitational) Nestlé Rowntree F.C. (/wiki/Rowntrees_F.C.) Nestlé Smarties Book Prize (/wiki/Nestl%C3%A9_Smarties_Book_Prize) Nestlé Tower (/wiki/Nestl%C3%A9_Tower) Toll House cookies (/wiki/Chocolate_chip_cookie) International Code of Marketing of Breast-milk Substitutes (/wiki/International_Code_of_Marketing_of_Breast-milk_Substitutes) Nescafé Basement (/wiki/Nescaf%C3%A9_Basement) Maggi noodles safety concerns in India (/wiki/Maggi_noodles_safety_concerns_in_India) Freshly (/wiki/Freshly) Related articles List of Nestlé brands (/wiki/List_of_Nestl%C3%A9_brands) Controversies of Nestlé (/wiki/Controversies_of_Nestl%C3%A9) 1 Currently manufactured by General Mills (/wiki/General_Mills) in the U.S. and Canada. Produced by Cereal Partners (/wiki/Cereal_Partners_Worldwide) under the Nestlé brand elsewhere. 2 Brand owned by General Mills (/wiki/General_Mills) ; U.S. and Canadian production rights controlled by Nestlé under license. 3 U.S. production rights owned by The Hershey Company (/wiki/The_Hershey_Company) . 4 U.S. rights and production owned by the Smarties Candy Company (/wiki/Smarties_Candy_Company) with a different product. 5 U.S. rights and specific trade dress owned by Nestlé; rights elsewhere owned by Associated British Foods (/wiki/Associated_British_Foods) . 6 Produced by Cereal Partners, branded as Nestlé. 7 Produced by Cereal Partners and branded as Nestlé in the U.K. and Ireland. Produced by Post Foods (/wiki/Post_Foods) elsewhere. 8 Philippine production rights owned by Alaska Milk Corporation (/wiki/Alaska_Milk_Corporation) . 9 Singaporean, Malaysian and Thai production rights owned by Fraser and Neave (/wiki/Fraser_and_Neave) . 10 Used only in Indonesia, Thailand, and Cambodia. 11 Used only in the Philippines. 12 U.S. production rights owned by the Ferrara Candy Company (/wiki/Ferrara_Candy_Company) . 13 NA (/wiki/North_America) rights and specific trade dress to all packaged coffee and other products under the Starbucks brand owned by Nestlé since 2019. 14 Brand owned by Mars (/wiki/Mars_Inc.) , sold by Nestlé in Canada. 15 Produced by Froneri (/wiki/Froneri) in the U.S. since 2020. 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British and American media executive (born 1949) For the song, see Anna Wintour (song) (/wiki/Anna_Wintour_(song)) . Dame Anna Wintour CH (/wiki/Companion_of_Honour) DBE (/wiki/Dame_Commander_of_the_Order_of_the_British_Empire) Wintour in February 2019 Born ( 1949-11-03 ) 3 November 1949 (age 74) London (/wiki/London) , England Citizenship United Kingdom United States Education Queen's College, London (/wiki/Queen%27s_College,_London) North London Collegiate School (/wiki/North_London_Collegiate_School) Years active 1975–present Employer Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) Notable credits Editorial Assistant, Harpers & Queen (/wiki/Harpers_%26_Queen) , Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) Fashion Editor, Viva (/wiki/Viva_(American_magazine)) , Savvy , New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) Creative Director, U.S. Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) Editor-in-Chief, British Vogue and House & Garden (/wiki/House_%26_Garden_(magazine)) Title Editor-in-Chief, Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) Artistic Director, Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) Global Chief Content Officer (/wiki/Chief_Content_Officer) , Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) Global Editorial Director, Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) Predecessor Grace Mirabella (/wiki/Grace_Mirabella) Political party Democratic (/wiki/Democratic_Party_(United_States)) Board member of Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) Spouses David Shaffer (/wiki/David_Shaffer) ( m. 1984; div. 1999) Shelby Bryan (/wiki/Shelby_Bryan) ( m. 2004; div. 2020) Children 2 Parent Charles Wintour (/wiki/Charles_Wintour) (father) Relatives Patrick Wintour (/wiki/Patrick_Wintour) (brother) Francesco Carrozzini (/wiki/Francesco_Carrozzini) (son-in-law) Signature Dame Anna Wintour CH (/wiki/Companion_of_Honour) DBE (/wiki/Dame_Commander_of_the_Order_of_the_British_Empire) ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ w ɪ n t ər / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) WIN -tər ; born 3 November 1949 [1] (#cite_note-1) ) is a British and American [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) media executive, who has been serving as editor-in-chief (/wiki/Editor-in-chief) of Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) since 1988. Wintour has also served as Global Chief Content Officer of Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) since 2020, where she oversees all Condé Nast publications worldwide, and concurrently serves as Artistic Director. Wintour is also Global Editorial Director of Vogue . [4] (#cite_note-4) With her trademark pageboy (/wiki/Pageboy) bob haircut (/wiki/Bob_cut) and dark sunglasses, Wintour is regarded as the most powerful woman in publishing, and has become an important figure in the fashion world, serving as the lead chairperson (/wiki/Chairperson) of the annual haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) global fashion spectacle in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) since the 1990s. Wintour is praised for her skill in identifying emerging fashion trends, but has been criticised for her reportedly aloof and demanding personality. Her father, Charles Wintour (/wiki/Charles_Wintour) , who was Editor of the London-based Evening Standard (/wiki/Evening_Standard) from 1959 to 1976, consulted with her on how to make the newspaper relevant to the youth of the era. She became interested in fashion as a teenager and her career in fashion journalism (/wiki/Fashion_journalism) began at two British magazines. Later, she moved to the United States, with stints at New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) and House & Garden (/wiki/House_%26_Garden_(magazine)) . She returned to London and was the Editor of British (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) Vogue between 1985 and 1987. A year later, she assumed control of the franchise's magazine in New York, reviving what many saw as a stagnating publication. Her use of the magazine to shape the fashion industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) has been the subject of debate within it. Animal rights (/wiki/Animal_rights) activists have attacked her for promoting fur, while other critics have charged her with using the magazine to promote elitist and unattainable views of femininity and beauty. A former personal assistant, Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) , wrote the bestselling 2003 roman à clef (/wiki/Roman_%C3%A0_clef) The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) , later made into a successful 2006 film (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) starring Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) as Miranda Priestly (/wiki/Miranda_Priestly) , a fashion editor, believed to be based on Wintour. In 2009, Wintour's editorship of Vogue was the original focus of a documentary film, R. J. Cutler (/wiki/R._J._Cutler) 's The September Issue (/wiki/The_September_Issue) . The film's focus switched to the creative teams and more senior fashion editors as filming progressed. [5] (#cite_note-5) Early life and education [ edit ] Wintour was born in Hampstead (/wiki/Hampstead) , London, to Charles Wintour (/wiki/Charles_Wintour) (1917–1999), editor of the Evening Standard (/wiki/Evening_Standard) , and Eleanor "Nonie" Trego Baker (1917–1995), an American and the daughter of a Harvard Law School (/wiki/Harvard_Law_School) professor. [6] (#cite_note-6) Her parents were married in 1940 and divorced in 1979. [7] (#cite_note-7) Wintour was named after her maternal grandmother, Anna Baker (née Gilkyson), a merchant's daughter from Pennsylvania (/wiki/Pennsylvania) . [8] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer2-8) Audrey Slaughter, a magazine editor who founded publications including Honey (/wiki/Honey_(UK_magazine)) and Petticoat , was her stepmother. [9] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer99-9) [10] (#cite_note-The_Media_in_Britain-10) Wintour's grandfather was Major-General Fitzgerald Wintour (/wiki/Fitzgerald_Wintour) , a British military officer and descendant of Prime Minister George Grenville (/wiki/George_Grenville) . Through her paternal grandmother, Alice Jane Blanche Foster, Wintour is a great-great-great-granddaughter of the late-18th-century novelist Lady Elizabeth Foster (/wiki/Elizabeth_Cavendish,_Duchess_of_Devonshire) , who was later the Duchess of Devonshire (/wiki/Duke_of_Devonshire) , and her first husband, the Irish (/wiki/Ireland) politician John Thomas Foster (/wiki/John_Thomas_Foster) . Her great-great-great-great-grandfather was Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol (/wiki/Frederick_Hervey,_4th_Earl_of_Bristol) , who served as the Anglican Bishop of Derry (/wiki/Bishop_of_Derry) . Sir Augustus Vere Foster, 4th Baronet (/wiki/Foster_baronets) , the last Baronet of that name, was a granduncle of Wintour's. [11] (#cite_note-Lady_Foster-11) She is a niece of Cordelia James, Baroness James of Rusholme (/wiki/Cordelia_James,_Baroness_James_of_Rusholme) , the daughter of Fitzgerald Wintour. [12] (#cite_note-12) Wintour had four siblings. Her older brother, Gerald, died in a traffic accident as a child. [13] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer6-13) One of her younger brothers, Patrick (/wiki/Patrick_Wintour) , is also a journalist, currently diplomatic editor of The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . [14] (#cite_note-Patrick_Wintour-14) James and Nora Wintour have worked in London local government and for international non-governmental organisations, respectively. [15] (#cite_note-Camden_News_Journal_story-15) Wintour attended North London Collegiate School (/wiki/North_London_Collegiate_School) , where she frequently rebelled against the dress code (/wiki/Social_aspects_of_clothing#Private_dress_codes) by taking up the hemlines (/wiki/Hemline) of her skirts. [16] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer15-16) At the age of 14, she began wearing her hair in a bob (/wiki/Bob_cut) . [17] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer21-17) She developed an interest in fashion as a regular viewer of Cathy McGowan (/wiki/Cathy_McGowan_(presenter)) on Ready Steady Go! (/wiki/Ready_Steady_Go!) , [18] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer22-18) and from reading Seventeen (/wiki/Seventeen_(American_magazine)) , which her grandmother sent from the United States. [19] (#cite_note-The_September_Issue_19:05-19) "Growing up in London in the '60s (/wiki/Swinging_London) , you'd have to have had Irving Penn (/wiki/Irving_Penn) 's sack over your head not to know something extraordinary was happening in fashion", she recalled. [20] (#cite_note-September_Issue_18:35-20) Her father regularly consulted her when he was considering ideas for increasing readership in the youth market. [18] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer22-18) Career [ edit ] From fashion to journalism [ edit ] "I think my father really decided for me that I should work in fashion", she recalled in The September Issue (/wiki/The_September_Issue) . [19] (#cite_note-The_September_Issue_19:05-19) He arranged for his daughter's first job, at the influential Biba (/wiki/Biba) boutique, when she was 15. [21] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer42-44-21) The next year, she left North London Collegiate and began a training program at Harrods (/wiki/Harrods) . At her parents' behest, she also took fashion classes at a nearby school. Soon she gave them up, saying, "You either know fashion or you don't." [22] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer51-22) An older boyfriend, Richard Neville (/wiki/Richard_Neville_(writer)) , gave her her first experience of magazine production at his popular and controversial Oz (/wiki/Oz_(magazine)) . [23] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer58-62-23) In 1970, when Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) UK merged with Queen to become Harper's & Queen , Wintour was hired as one of its first editorial assistants, beginning her career in fashion journalism (/wiki/Fashion_journalism) . [24] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer63-24) She told her co-workers that she wanted to edit Vogue . [25] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer70-25) While there, she discovered model Annabel Hodin, a former North London classmate. Her connections helped her secure locations for innovative shoots by Helmut Newton (/wiki/Helmut_Newton) , Jim Lee (/wiki/Jim_Lee_(Photographer_and_Film_Director)) [26] (#cite_note-26) and other trend-setting photographers. [27] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer81-27) One recreated the works of Renoir (/wiki/Pierre-Auguste_Renoir) and Manet (/wiki/Manet) using models in go-go boots (/wiki/Go-go_boots) . [28] (#cite_note-Met_bio-28) After chronic disagreements with her rival, Min Hogg (/wiki/Min_Hogg) , [29] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer96-29) she quit and moved to New York with her boyfriend, freelance journalist Jon Bradshaw (/wiki/Jon_Bradshaw) . [30] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer100-30) New York City [ edit ] In her new home, she became a junior fashion editor at Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) in New York City in 1975. [28] (#cite_note-Met_bio-28) Wintour's innovative shoots led editor Tony Mazzola to fire her after nine months. [31] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer109-31) She was reportedly introduced to Bob Marley (/wiki/Bob_Marley) by one of Bradshaw's friends, and disappeared with him for a week; [32] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer107-32) in a 2017 appearance on The Late Late Show with James Corden (/wiki/The_Late_Late_Show_with_James_Corden) , she said she had never actually met the reggae legend, but certainly would have "hooked up" with him if she had. [33] (#cite_note-James_Corden_2017_appearance-33) A few months later, Bradshaw helped her get her first position as a fashion editor, at Viva (/wiki/Viva_(American_magazine)) , a women's adult magazine started by Kathy Keeton (/wiki/Kathy_Keeton) , then the wife of Penthouse (/wiki/Penthouse_(magazine)) publisher Bob Guccione (/wiki/Bob_Guccione) . She has rarely discussed working there, due to that connection. [34] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer118-34) This was the first job at which she was able to hire a personal assistant, which began her reputation as a demanding and difficult boss. [35] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer120-35) In late 1978, Guccione shut down the unprofitable magazine. Wintour decided to take some time off from work. She broke up with Bradshaw and began a relationship with French record producer Michel Esteban (/wiki/Michel_Esteban) , for two years dividing her time with him between Paris and New York. [36] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer152-36) She returned to work in 1980, succeeding Elsa Klensch (/wiki/Elsa_Klensch) as fashion editor for a new women's magazine named Savvy . [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) It sought to appeal to career-conscious professional women who spent their own money, [38] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer159-38) the readers Wintour would later target at Vogue . [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) The following year, she became fashion editor of New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . [28] (#cite_note-Met_bio-28) There, the fashion spreads and photo shoots she had been putting together for years finally began attracting attention. Editor Edward Kosner sometimes bent very strict rules for her and let her work on other sections of the magazine. She learned through her work on a cover involving Rachel Ward (/wiki/Rachel_Ward) how effectively celebrity covers sold copies. [40] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer188-40) "Anna saw the celebrity thing coming before everyone else did", Grace Coddington said three decades later. [41] (#cite_note-September_Issue_1:12:00-41) A former colleague arranged for an interview with Vogue editor Grace Mirabella (/wiki/Grace_Mirabella) that ended when Wintour told Mirabella she wanted her job. [42] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_4-42) [43] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer190-43) Condé Nast [ edit ] Further information: Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) Wintour's first U.S. Vogue cover in November 1988, featuring model Michaela Bercu (/wiki/Michaela_Bercu) , was recreated in 2014 with model Gigi Hadid (/wiki/Gigi_Hadid) . She went to work at Vogue when Alex Liberman, who was then the editorial director for Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) and publisher of Vogue , talked to Wintour about a position there in 1983. She eventually accepted after a bidding war that doubled her salary, becoming the magazine's first creative director, a position with vaguely defined responsibilities. [44] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer207-44) Her changes to the magazine were often made without Mirabella's knowledge, causing friction among the staff. [45] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer208-10-45) She began dating child psychiatrist David Shaffer (/wiki/David_Shaffer) , an older acquaintance from London. [46] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer193-46) They married in 1984. [47] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer223-47) In 1985, Wintour attained her first editorship, taking over the UK edition of Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) after Beatrix Miller (/wiki/Beatrix_Miller) retired. [48] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer230-48) Once in charge, she replaced many of the staff and exerted far more control over the magazine than any previous editor had, earning the nickname "Nuclear Wintour" in the process. [49] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer243-49) Those editors who were retained began to refer to the period as "The Wintour of Our Discontent". [50] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer240-50) Her changes moved the magazine from its traditional eccentricity to a direction more in line with the American magazine. Wintour's ideal reader was the same woman Savvy had tried to reach. "There's a new kind of woman out there", she told the Evening Standard. "She's interested in business and money. She doesn't have time to shop anymore. She wants to know what and why and where and how." [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) In 1987, Wintour returned to New York City to take over House & Garden (/wiki/House_%26_Garden_(magazine)) . Its circulation had long lagged behind rival Architectural Digest (/wiki/Architectural_Digest) , [51] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer269-51) and Condé Nast hoped she could improve it. Again, she made radical changes to staff and look, canceling $2 million worth of photo spreads and articles in her first week. [52] (#cite_note-Time_1988-52) She put so much fashion in photo spreads that it became known as " House & Garment ," and enough celebrities that it was referred to as " Vanity Chair " within the industry. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) These changes worsened the magazine's problems. When the title was shortened to just HG , many longtime subscribers thought they were getting a new magazine and put it aside for the real thing to arrive. [51] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer269-51) Most of those subscriptions were eventually canceled and, while some fashion advertisers came over, most of the magazine's traditional advertisers pulled out. [53] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer271-53) Ten months later, she became editor of U.S. Vogue . Industry insiders worried that under Mirabella, the magazine was losing ground to the recently-introduced American edition of Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) . [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) After making sweeping changes in staff, Wintour changed the style of the cover pictures. Mirabella had preferred tight head shots (/wiki/Head_shot) of well-known models in studios; Wintour's covers showed more of the body and were taken outside, like those Diana Vreeland (/wiki/Diana_Vreeland) had done years earlier. [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) She used less well-known models, and mixed inexpensive clothes with high fashion: the first issue she was in charge of, November 1988, featured a Peter Lindbergh (/wiki/Peter_Lindbergh) photograph of 19-year-old Michaela Bercu (/wiki/Michaela_Bercu) in a $50 pair of faded jeans and a bejeweled T-shirt by Christian Lacroix (/wiki/Christian_Lacroix) worth $10,000. It was the first time a Vogue cover model had worn jeans; [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) when the printer saw it they called the magazine's offices, thinking it was the wrong image. [54] (#cite_note-Hadid_tribute-54) In 2012, Wintour reflected on the cover: It was so unlike the studied and elegant close-ups that were typical of Vogue's covers back then, with tons of makeup and major jewelry. This one broke all the rules. Michaela wasn't looking at you, and worse, she had her eyes almost closed. Her hair was blowing across her face. It looked easy, casual, a moment that had been snapped on the street, which it had been, and which was the whole point. Afterwards, in the way that these things can happen, people applied all sorts of interpretations: It was about mixing high and low, Michaela was pregnant, it was a religious statement. But none of these things was true. I had just looked at that picture and sensed the winds of change. And you can't ask for more from a cover image than that. [55] (#cite_note-Wintour_on_Bercu_cover-55) Years later, Wintour admitted the photo had never been planned as the cover shot. In 2011, when Vogue put its entire archive online, Wintour was quoted as saying, "I just said, 'Well, let's just try this.' And off we went. It was just very natural. To me it just said, 'This is something new. This is something different.' The printers called to make sure that was supposed to be the cover, as they thought a mistake might have been made." [56] (#cite_note-CBS_News_2011_interview-56) In 2015, she said if she had to pick a favorite of her covers, it would be that one. "[I]t was a leap of faith and it was certainly a big change for Vogue ." [57] (#cite_note-2015_New_York_interview-57) "Wintour's approach hit a nerve—this was the way real women put clothes together (with the likely exception of wearing multi-thousand-dollar T-shirts)", one reviewer says. On the June 1989 cover, model Estelle Lefebure was shown in wet hair, with just a bathrobe and no apparent makeup. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) Photographers, makeup artists, and hairstylists got credited along with the models. [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) In August 2014, Gigi Hadid (/wiki/Gigi_Hadid) paid tribute to Wintour's first cover. [54] (#cite_note-Hadid_tribute-54) She exerts a great deal of control over the magazine's visual content. Since her first days as editor, she has required that photographers not begin until she has approved Polaroids (/wiki/Instant_film) of the setup and clothing. Afterwards, they must submit all their work to the magazine, not just their personal choices. [58] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer244-58) Her control over the text is less certain. Her staff claim she reads everything written for publication, [59] (#cite_note-NY_Observer_Plum_Sykes_story2-59) [60] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer325-60) but former editor Richard Story has claimed she rarely, if ever, reads any of Vogue ' s arts coverage or book reviews. [61] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer326-61) Earlier in her career, she often left writing of the text that accompanied her layouts to others; former coworkers claim she has minimal skills in that area. [62] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer_on_poor_writing-62) Today, she writes little for the magazine save the monthly editor's letter. She reportedly has three full-time assistants but sometimes surprises callers by answering the phone herself. [63] (#cite_note-Citizen_Anna_22-63) 1990s [ edit ] Under her editorship, the magazine renewed its focus on fashion and returned to the prominence it had held under Vreeland. Vogue held its position as market leader against three contenders: Elle ; Harper's Bazaar , which had lured away Liz Tilberis (/wiki/Liz_Tilberis) , Wintour's most prominent deputy, and Mirabella (/wiki/Mirabella) , a magazine Rupert Murdoch (/wiki/Rupert_Murdoch) created for Wintour's fired predecessor. Her most serious competitor was within the company: Tina Brown (/wiki/Tina_Brown) , editor of Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) and later The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) . [64] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer293-96-64) At the end of the decade, another of Wintour's inner circle left to run Harper's Bazaar . Kate Betts (/wiki/Kate_Betts) , seen as Wintour's likely successor, had broadened the magazine's reach by commissioning stories with a more hard-news edge, about women in politics, street culture, and the financial difficulties of some major designers. She had also added the "Index" section, a few pages of tips meant to be torn out of the magazine. At staff meetings, she earned Wintour's respect as the only person who publicly challenged her. [65] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_2-65) The two began to disagree about the magazine's direction. Betts felt Vogue 's fashion coverage was getting too limited. Wintour in turn thought that the stories with popular culture angles Betts was assigning were beneath readers, and began pairing Betts with Plum Sykes (/wiki/Plum_Sykes) , whom Betts reportedly detested as a "pretentious airhead". Eventually, she left, complaining to The New York Times that Wintour had not even sent her a baby gift. Wintour wrote an editor's letter that complimented Betts and wished her well. [66] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_3-66) 2000s [ edit ] Betts was one of several longtime editors to leave Vogue around the new millennium. A year later, Sykes, another putative successor, left to concentrate on her best-selling novels set in the city's upper classes and a screenplay. A number of other editors also left to assume the top jobs at other publications. While some of their replacements did not last, a new group of core editors formed. [67] (#cite_note-NY_Observer_Plum_Sykes_story-67) Wintour in Germany, 2006 The September 2004 issue was 832 pages, the largest issue of a monthly magazine ever published at that time, since exceeded by the September 2007 issue Cutler's documentary covered. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) Wintour oversaw the introduction of three spinoffs: Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) , Vogue Living (/wiki/Vogue_Living) and Men's Vogue (/wiki/Men%27s_Vogue) . Teen Vogue has published more ad pages and earned more advertiser revenue than either Elle Girl (/wiki/Elle_Girl) and Cosmo Girl (/wiki/Cosmo_Girl) , and the 164 ad pages in the début issue of Men's Vogue (/wiki/Men%27s_Vogue) were the most for a first issue in Condé Nast history. [68] (#cite_note-Folio-68) AdAge (/wiki/Advertising_Age) named her "Editor of the Year" for this brand expansion. [69] (#cite_note-Editor_of_the_Year-69) Wintour was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (/wiki/Officer_of_the_Order_of_the_British_Empire) (OBE) in the 2008 Birthday Honours (/wiki/2008_Birthday_Honours) . [70] (#cite_note-70) [71] (#cite_note-OBE-71) However, 2008 was generally difficult year for Vogue , as the economy worsened (/wiki/Financial_crisis_of_2007%E2%80%932010) . After ruffling feathers at the Milan shows in February, the April issue's cover image of LeBron James (/wiki/LeBron_James) and Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) brought criticism for its evocation of racial stereotypes (/wiki/Racial_stereotypes) . [72] (#cite_note-Daily_Telegraph_Lebron_cover_story-72) The next month, a lavish Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) gown she wore to the Met's Costume Institute Gala was called "the worst fashion faux pas of 2008". In the fall, Vogue Living was suspended indefinitely, and Men's Vogue cut back to two issues a year as an outsert (/wiki/Outsert) or supplement to the women's magazine. At the end of the year, December's cover highlighted a disparaging comment Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) made about Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) , to the former's displeasure; media observers began speculating that Wintour had lost her touch. [73] (#cite_note-Men's_Vogue_folding-73) "Save Anna" logo created in response to retirement rumours In 2008, rumours arose that she would retire, and be replaced by French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld (/wiki/Carine_Roitfeld) . [74] (#cite_note-Horyn_New_Year's_2009_story-74) An editor at Russian GQ (/wiki/GQ) reportedly introduced Russian Vogue editor Aliona Doletskaya (/wiki/Aliona_Doletskaya) as the next editor of American Vogue . [75] (#cite_note-NY_mag_The_Cut-75) Condé Nast responded by taking out a full-page ad in The New York Times defending her record. In that same publication, Cathy Horyn (/wiki/Cathy_Horyn) later wrote that while Wintour had not lost her touch, the magazine had become "stale and predictable", as a reader had recently complained. "To read Vogue in recent years is to wonder about the peculiar fascination for the 'villa in Tuscany (/wiki/Tuscany) ' story", Horyn added. The magazine also dealt awkwardly with the recession (/wiki/Late_2000s_recession_in_the_Americas#U.S.) , she commented. [74] (#cite_note-Horyn_New_Year's_2009_story-74) In 2009, Wintour began making more media appearances. On a 60 Minutes (/wiki/60_Minutes) profile, she said she would not retire. "To me, this is a really interesting time to be in this position and I think it would be in a way irresponsible not to put my best foot forward and lead us into a different time." [76] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_2-76) A documentary film, The September Issue (/wiki/The_September_Issue) , by The War Room (/wiki/The_War_Room) producer R.J. Cutler (/wiki/R.J._Cutler) , about the production of the September 2007 issue, was released in September. It focused on the sometimes-difficult relationship between Wintour and creative director Grace Coddington (/wiki/Grace_Coddington) . [77] (#cite_note-77) [78] (#cite_note-Observer_September_issue_article-78) Wintour appeared on the Late Show with David Letterman (/wiki/Late_Show_with_David_Letterman) to promote it, [79] (#cite_note-Letterman_appearance-79) defending the relevance of fashion in a tough economy. [80] (#cite_note-Letterman_appearance_Daily_News_2-80) The American Society of Magazine Editors (/wiki/American_Society_of_Magazine_Editors) elected her to its Hall of Fame in 2010. [81] (#cite_note-ASME_Hall_of_Fame-81) 2010s [ edit ] Wintour in February 2012 In 2013, Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast_Publications) announced she would be taking on the position of artistic director for the company's magazines while remaining at Vogue . She assumed some of the responsibilities of Si Newhouse (/wiki/Samuel_Irving_Newhouse,_Jr.) , the company's longtime chairman, who, in his mid-80s at the time, was retreating from his role at Condé Nast to oversee managing Advance Publications (/wiki/Advance_Publications) , its parent company. A company spokesman told The New York Times the position was created to keep Wintour. She described it as "an extension of what I am doing, but on a broader scale." [82] (#cite_note-NYT_artistic_director_story-82) In January 2014, the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) named its Costume Institute complex after Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour_Costume_Center) ; [83] (#cite_note-Met_Names_Costume_Institute_Complex_in_Honor_of_Anna_Wintour-83) First Lady Michelle Obama (/wiki/Michelle_Obama) opened it in May of that year. [84] (#cite_note-84) Wintour starred in The Fashion Fund (/wiki/The_Fashion_Fund) , which aired on Ovation TV (/wiki/Ovation_(U.S._TV_channel)) that year as well; [85] (#cite_note-Anna_Wintour,_'The_Fashion_Fund'_to_Air_on_Cable_TV-85) she was named the 39th most powerful woman in the world by Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . [86] (#cite_note-Forbes14-86) On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) 's release, in 2016, The Ringer (/wiki/The_Ringer_(website)) noted how Wintour's personal image had evolved since that film's depiction of Miranda Priestley. "A decade ago this summer, Wintour became a living, breathing avatar for a certain kind of boss—the terrible kind, with 'great' a halfhearted asterisk", wrote Alison Herman. " The Devil Wears Prada transformed Wintour's image from that of a mere public figure into that of a cultural icon." [87] (#cite_note-Ringer_2016_article-87) But since then, "Wintour isn't just redeemed. She's openly admired, Arctic chill and all." The grievances reflected in the novel and film "[seem] like an increasingly petty complaint when held up against a readership that remains well into the seven figures and the undisputed edge in ad sales that comes with it. Wintour is seemingly the only person on earth who knows how to run a steady print operation in 2016 ... At 10 years old, Miranda Priestley is iconic but ever-so-slightly out of date. Anna Wintour is still the boss..." [87] (#cite_note-Ringer_2016_article-87) Wintour was appointed Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (/wiki/Dame_Commander_of_the_Order_of_the_British_Empire) (DBE) in the 2017 New Year Honours (/wiki/2017_New_Year_Honours) for services to fashion and journalism and invested by Queen Elizabeth II (/wiki/Elizabeth_II_of_the_United_Kingdom) in May 2017 at Buckingham Palace (/wiki/Buckingham_Palace) . [88] (#cite_note-2017_knighthood-88) According to a January 2017 report in The Nation (/wiki/The_Nation) , an American news magazine, it was rumored that Wintour would have become the United States Ambassador to the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_States_Ambassador_to_the_United_Kingdom) had Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) been elected President of the United States the previous November. [89] (#cite_note-89) 2020s [ edit ] In May 2020, former editor-at-large André Leon Talley (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Leon_Talley) released his second memoir, The Chiffon Trenches , which exposed Talley and Wintour's personal falling-out in 2018 after he was discontinued as Vogue ' s Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) red carpet reporter. [90] (#cite_note-90) Following the murder of George Floyd (/wiki/Murder_of_George_Floyd) , Wintour was reported to have issued an apology to staff for Vogue ' s complicity in racism, stating the magazine had "not found enough ways to elevate and give space to Black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators". [91] (#cite_note-91) In 2020, Condé Nast promoted Wintour to the role of worldwide chief content officer, as part of a company restructuring. In addition, she will be working as global editorial director of Vogue . [92] (#cite_note-92) In 2023, Wintour suggested the creation of an event similar to the Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) in London to raise funds for the local arts scene, which has struggled to recover in the aftermath of COVID. [93] (#cite_note-93) Wintour was appointed Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour (/wiki/Member_of_the_Order_of_the_Companions_of_Honour) (CH) in the 2023 Birthday Honours (/wiki/2023_Birthday_Honours) for services to fashion. [94] (#cite_note-94) Influence in fashion industry [ edit ] Through the years, she has come to be regarded as one of the most powerful people in fashion, setting trends and anointing new designers. Industry publicists often hear "Do you want me to go to Anna with this?" when they have differences with her subordinates. [95] (#cite_note-Citizen_Anna_1-95) The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) has called her the "unofficial mayoress" of New York City. [96] (#cite_note-Unofficial_mayoress-96) She has encouraged fashion houses such as Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) to hire younger, fresher designers such as John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) . Her influence extends outside fashion. She persuaded Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) to let Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) use a ballroom at the Plaza Hotel (/wiki/Plaza_Hotel) for a show when Jacobs and his partner were short of cash. In 2006, she persuaded Brooks Brothers (/wiki/Brooks_Brothers) to hire the relatively unknown Thom Browne (/wiki/Thom_Browne) . [95] (#cite_note-Citizen_Anna_1-95) A protégée at Vogue , Plum Sykes (/wiki/Plum_Sykes) , [65] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_2-65) became a successful novelist, drawing her settings from New York's fashionable élite. [97] (#cite_note-Plum_Sykes_profile-97) Her salary was reported to be $2 million a year in 2005. [98] (#cite_note-Who_Makes_How_Much-98) In addition, she receives several perks, such as a chauffeured Mercedes-Benz S-Class (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_S-Class) (both in New York and abroad), a $200,000 shopping allowance, [76] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_2-76) and the Coco Chanel Suite at the Hotel Ritz Paris (/wiki/Hotel_Ritz_Paris) while attending European fashion shows. [44] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer207-44) Condé Nast president Samuel Irving Newhouse Jr. (/wiki/Samuel_Irving_Newhouse_Jr.) had the company make her an interest-free $1.6 million loan to purchase her townhouse in Greenwich Village (/wiki/Greenwich_Village) . [99] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer29-99) Charity work [ edit ] Wintour serves as a trustee of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) in New York, [28] (#cite_note-Met_bio-28) where she has organised benefits that have raised $50 million for the museum's Costume Institute (/wiki/Anna_Wintour_Costume_Center) . [76] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_2-76) She began the CFDA (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) /Vogue Fund in order to encourage, support and mentor unknown fashion designers. She has also raised over $10 million for AIDS (/wiki/HIV/AIDS) charities since 1990, by organising various high-profile benefits. [28] (#cite_note-Met_bio-28) Personal life [ edit ] Wintour at a 2005 show Relationships [ edit ] Wintour began dating well-connected older men during her teens. She was briefly involved with novelist Piers Paul Read (/wiki/Piers_Paul_Read) when she was 15 and he was 24. [100] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer31-35-100) In her later teens, she dated gossip columnist Nigel Dempster (/wiki/Nigel_Dempster) and the two became a fixture on the London club circuit. [101] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer36-37-101) Wintour married child psychiatrist David Shaffer (/wiki/David_Shaffer) in 1984, and they had a son named Charles (born 1985) and a daughter named Katherine (born 1987) before divorcing in 1999. Charles is a graduate of the University of Oxford (/wiki/University_of_Oxford) and Columbia College of Physicians and Surgeons (/wiki/Columbia_College_of_Physicians_and_Surgeons) . [102] (#cite_note-102) Katherine wrote occasional columns for The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) in 2006 and graduated from Columbia University (/wiki/Columbia_University) in 2009, [103] (#cite_note-Bee-103) [104] (#cite_note-104) and is a New York-based producer with Ambassador Theatre Group (/wiki/Ambassador_Theatre_Group) . Katherine married Italian filmmaker Francesco Carrozzini (/wiki/Francesco_Carrozzini) , son of Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani (/wiki/Franca_Sozzani) , in 2018. [105] (#cite_note-105) Newspapers and gossip columnists (/wiki/Gossip_columnist) claimed that Wintour's affair with investor Shelby Bryan (/wiki/Shelby_Bryan) ended her marriage to Shaffer. [106] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer340-41-106) She declined to comment. [107] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_1-107) [108] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer342-108) A former colleague quoted in the Observer (/wiki/The_Observer) said that Bryan "mellowed her" and that she "smiles now and has been seen to laugh". [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) Residence [ edit ] Wintour resides in New York City's Greenwich Village (/wiki/Greenwich_Village) . [110] (#cite_note-NYT20160929-110) Habits [ edit ] Wintour says she wakes up at 5:30 a.m., plays tennis, gets her hair and makeup done, and then arrives at the Vogue offices at 7:30 a.m. She always turns up at fashion shows well before their scheduled start, stating, "I use the waiting time to make phone calls and notes; I get some of my best ideas at the shows." [103] (#cite_note-Bee-103) According to the BBC (/wiki/BBC) documentary series Boss Woman , she rarely stays at parties for more than 20 minutes at a time and usually goes to bed by 10:15 p.m. at the latest. [111] (#cite_note-Boss_Woman_review-111) She turns off her mobile phone so as not to be disturbed while eating her lunch, [112] (#cite_note-Amiel-112) which is most often a steak or a hamburger without the bun. [107] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_1-107) High-protein meals have been a habit of hers for a long time. A co-worker at Harpers & Queen said that she would eat "smoked salmon and scrambled eggs" every single day and that "she would eat nothing else". [27] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer81-27) Personal fashion [ edit ] Because of her position, Wintour's wardrobe is often closely scrutinised and imitated. Earlier in her career, she mixed fashionable t-shirts and vests with designer jeans (/wiki/Designer_jeans) . When she started at Vogue as creative director, she switched to Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) suits with miniskirts. [44] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer207-44) She continued to wear them during both pregnancies, [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) opening the skirts slightly in back and keeping her jacket on to cover up. [113] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer229-113) Wintour was listed as "one of the 50 best-dressed over 50s" by The Guardian in March 2013. Aside from sporting Chanel suits with midiskirts, she has also been seen wearing kitten heels & printed midi-dresses. [114] (#cite_note-114) According to biographer Jerry Oppenheimer (/wiki/Jerry_Oppenheimer) , her ubiquitous sunglasses are actually corrective lenses, since she has deteriorating vision as her father did. A former colleague he interviewed recalls trying on her Wayfarers (/wiki/Ray-Ban_Wayfarer) in her absence and getting dizzy. [115] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer215-16-115) "I think at this point they've become, you know, really armour", Wintour herself told 60 Minutes (/wiki/60_Minutes) correspondent Morley Safer (/wiki/Morley_Safer) , explaining that they allow her to keep her reactions to a show private. [116] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_3-116) As she rebounded from the end of her marriage and the turnover in the magazine's editorial staff, a fellow editor and friend noted that "she's not hiding behind her glasses anymore. Now she's having fun again." [42] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_4-42) Politics [ edit ] Wintour has supported the Democratic Party (/wiki/Democratic_Party_of_the_United_States) since Hillary Clinton's 2000 Senate run (/wiki/US_Senate_career_of_Hillary_Clinton) and John Kerry's 2004 presidential campaign (/wiki/John_Kerry_2004_presidential_campaign) . She also served as a " bundler (/wiki/Bundler_(campaigning)#Bundling) " of contributions during Barack Obama (/wiki/Barack_Obama) 's presidential campaigns in 2008 (/wiki/Barack_Obama_2008_presidential_campaign) and 2012 (/wiki/Barack_Obama_2012_presidential_campaign) . She co-hosted fundraisers for Obama's campaigns with Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) , with one being a 50-person, $40,000-per-person dinner at Parker's West Village (/wiki/West_Village) town house with Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) , Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) , and advertising executive Trey Laird among the attendees. She also teamed with Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) and Harvey Weinstein (/wiki/Harvey_Weinstein) on fundraisers during Obama's first term, with Donna Karan (/wiki/Donna_Karan) among the attendees. [117] (#cite_note-117) In 2013, when Vogue ' s former director of communications stepped down, Wintour was rumoured to be looking to hire someone with a political background. Soon after, she hired Hildy Kuryk (/wiki/Hildy_Kuryk) , who worked as a fundraiser for the Democratic National Committee (/wiki/Democratic_National_Committee) and Obama's 2008 campaign. [118] (#cite_note-Haberman11-118) [119] (#cite_note-NYT-119) She supported Hillary Clinton's 2016 presidential campaign (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton_2016_presidential_campaign) , forming part of Clinton's long list of wealthy donors and served as Clinton's consultant on wardrobe choices for key moments of the campaign. [120] (#cite_note-veronchichi-120) Wintour endorsed Joe Biden (/wiki/Joe_Biden) for the 2020 United States presidential election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) . [121] (#cite_note-121) The Devil Wears Prada [ edit ] Main article: The Devil Wears Prada (novel) (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) , a former Wintour assistant [122] (#cite_note-Weisberger_autobio-122) who left Vogue for Departures (/wiki/Departures_Magazine) along with Richard Story, wrote The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) after a writing workshop he suggested she take. [123] (#cite_note-2005_NYT_Weisberger_story-123) It was eagerly anticipated for its supposed insider portrait of Wintour prior to its publication. [124] (#cite_note-Kate_Betts_DWP_novel_review-124) Wintour told The New York Times , "I always enjoy a great piece of fiction. I haven't decided whether I am going to read it or not." [125] (#cite_note-Times_quote-125) While it has been suggested that the fashion magazine setting and Miranda Priestly (/wiki/Miranda_Priestly) character were based on Vogue and Wintour, Weisberger claims she drew not only from her own experiences but those of her friends as well. [126] (#cite_note-Weisberger_Q_&_A-126) Wintour herself makes a cameo appearance near the end of the book, [127] (#cite_note-Weisberger322-127) where it is said she and Miranda dislike each other. [128] (#cite_note-Weisberger348-128) In the novel, Priestly has many similarities to Wintour—among them, she is British, has two children, [129] (#cite_note-Weisberger38–9-129) and is described as a major contributor to the Met (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) . [130] (#cite_note-Weisberger267-130) Priestly is a tyrant who makes impossible demands of her subordinates, gives them almost none of the information or time necessary to comply and then berates them for their failures to do so. [131] (#cite_note-Weisberger145-131) Kate Betts (/wiki/Kate_Betts) , who had been fired by Harper's after two years during which staffers said she tried too hard to emulate Wintour, [132] (#cite_note-NY_Observer_Betts_firing_story-132) reviewed it harshly in The New York Times Book Review (/wiki/The_New_York_Times_Book_Review) : Having worked at Vogue myself for eight years and having been mentored by Anna Wintour, I have to say Weisberger could have learned a few things in the year she sold her soul to the devil of fashion for $32,500. She had a ringside seat at one of the great editorial franchises in a business that exerts an enormous influence over women, but she seems to have understood almost nothing about the isolation and pressure of the job her boss was doing, or what it might cost a person like Miranda Priestly to become a character like Miranda Priestly. [124] (#cite_note-Kate_Betts_DWP_novel_review-124) Priestly has some positive qualities. Andrea Sachs, the novel's main character, notes that she makes all the magazine's key editorial decisions by herself [133] (#cite_note-Weisberger208-133) and that she has genuine class and style. [134] (#cite_note-novel_cite2-134) Film adaptation [ edit ] Further information: The Devil Wears Prada (film) (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) During the production of The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(film)) in 2005, Wintour was reportedly threatening prominent fashion personalities, particularly designers, that Vogue would not cover them if they made cameo appearances in the film as themselves. [135] (#cite_note-Radar-135) She denied it through a spokesperson who said she was interested in anything that "supports fashion". Many designers are mentioned in the film. Only one, Valentino Garavani (/wiki/Valentino_(designer)) , appeared as himself. [135] (#cite_note-Radar-135) The film was released, in mid-2006, to great commercial success. [136] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo-136) Wintour attended the première wearing Prada (/wiki/Prada) . In the film, actress Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) plays Priestly different enough from the book to receive critical praise as an entirely original (and more sympathetic) character. [137] (#cite_note-NYT_DWP_film_review-137) [138] (#cite_note-UK_Indepdendent_review-138) (Streep's office in the film was similar enough to Wintour's that Wintour reportedly had hers redecorated. [139] (#cite_note-Whitworth-139) ) Wintour reportedly said the film would probably go straight-to-DVD. [112] (#cite_note-Amiel-112) It made over $300 million in worldwide box-office receipts. Later in 2006, in an interview with Barbara Walters (/wiki/Barbara_Walters) that aired the day of the DVD's release, Wintour said she found the film "really entertaining" and praised it for making fashion "entertaining and glamorous and interesting ... I was 100 percent behind it." [140] (#cite_note-Barbara_Walters-140) That opinion of the film has not yet led her to forgive Weisberger. [141] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer328-141) When it was reported that the novelist's editor told her to start her third novel over, Wintour's spokesman suggested she "should get a job as someone else's assistant." [142] (#cite_note-Lloyd_Grove-142) Oppenheimer suggests The Devil Wears Prada may have done Wintour a favour by increasing her name recognition. "Besides giving Weisberger her fifteen minutes (/wiki/15_minutes_of_fame) ", he says, "[it] ... place[d] Anna squarely in the mainstream celebrity pantheon. [She] was now known and talked about over Big Macs and french fries under the Golden Arches by young fashionistas (/wiki/Fashion_victim) in Wal-Mart denim in Davenport (/wiki/Davenport,_Iowa) and Dubuque (/wiki/Dubuque,_Iowa) ." [141] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer328-141) When The September Issue was released three years later, critics compared it with the earlier, fictional film. "For the past year or so, she's been on the media warpath to win back her image", said Paul Schrodt in Slant Magazine (/wiki/Slant_Magazine) . [143] (#cite_note-Slant_review-143) Many considered the question of how similar she was to Streep's Priestly, and praised the film for showing the real person. Manohla Dargis (/wiki/Manohla_Dargis) at The New York Times said that Priestly had helped humanise Wintour, and "the documentary continues this". [144] (#cite_note-Dargis_SI_review-144) "The movie offers insights that lift it beyond a realist version of The Devil Wears Prada ", agreed Mary Pols in Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . [145] (#cite_note-Time_SI_review-145) The film version of the Weisberger novel (screenplay penned by Aline Brosh McKenna) has not been the only film to have a character borrowing some aspects of Wintour. Edna Mode (/wiki/Edna_Mode) 's similar hairstyle in The Incredibles (/wiki/The_Incredibles) (2004) has been noted, [78] (#cite_note-Observer_September_issue_article-78) [146] (#cite_note-What_lies_beneath-146) Johnny Depp (/wiki/Johnny_Depp) said he partially based the demeanour of Willy Wonka (/wiki/Willy_Wonka) in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (/wiki/Charlie_and_the_Chocolate_Factory_(film)) (2005) on Wintour. [147] (#cite_note-Johnny_Depp_in_Time-147) Fey Sommers (/wiki/Fey_Sommers) in Ugly Betty (/wiki/Ugly_Betty) (2006–2010) was also likened to Wintour, from the trademark bob and sunglasses, to Wintour's last name homophonous with 'Winter', while Sommers' is homophonous with 'Summer'. [148] (#cite_note-Seattle_P-I_Ugly_Betty_review-148) Criticism [ edit ] In 2005, two years after The Devil Wears Prada , Oppenheimer's Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor in Chief was published. It painted a similar portrait of the real woman. According to Oppenheimer, Wintour not only declined his requests for an interview but discouraged others from talking to him. [149] (#cite_note-Oppenheimerxi-149) Personality [ edit ] Wintour is often described as emotionally distant by those who have come to know her well, even her close friends. "At some stage in her career, Anna Wintour stopped being Anna Wintour and became 'Anna Wintour,' at which point, like wings of a stately home, she closed off large sections of her personality to the public", wrote The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . [146] (#cite_note-What_lies_beneath-146) "I think she enjoys not being completely approachable. Just her office is very intimidating. You have to walk about a mile into the office before you get to her desk and I'm sure it's intentional", Coddington says. [76] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_2-76) "I don't find her to be accessible to people she doesn't need to be accessible to", agrees Vogue publisher Tom Florio. [150] (#cite_note-TSI_11:55-150) Wintour at the Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) party for the 2010 Tribeca Film Festival (/wiki/Tribeca_Film_Festival) She has said she admired her father Charles, known as "Chilly Charlie" [66] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_3-66) [116] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_3-116) for being "inscrutable". [49] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer243-49) Former coworkers told Oppenheimer of a similar aloofness on her part. But she is also known for volatile outbursts of displeasure, and the widely used "Nuclear Wintour" sobriquet is a result of both. She dislikes it enough to have asked The New York Times not to use it. [49] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer243-49) "There are times I get quite angry", she admitted in The September Issue . [151] (#cite_note-TSI_1:11-151) "I think she has been very rude to a lot of people in the past, on her way up – very terse", a friend told The Observer . "She doesn't do small talk. She is never going to be friends with her assistant." [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) Junior staff at Vogue are said to understand, through unwritten rules, that they should not initiate interactions with her; it has been said that they are discouraged from riding an elevator with her, and if they do, should not speak to her, though Wintour has called this an exaggeration. [76] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_2-76) [152] (#cite_note-Stummer-152) In a 1999 profile, journalist Kevin Gray observed that one staffer appeared "panic stricken" when she realised she would have to be in the elevator with Wintour. Gray also reports that another employee told him that she once saw Wintour trip in a hallway, walked past her without offering assistance, and was later told she "did absolutely the right thing." [65] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_2-65) Even friends admit to some trepidation in her presence. "Anna happens to be a friend of mine", says Barbara Amiel (/wiki/Barbara_Amiel) , "a fact which is of absolutely no help in coping with the cold panic that grips me whenever we meet." [112] (#cite_note-Amiel-112) "I know when to stop pushing her", says Coddington. "She doesn't know when to stop pushing me." [153] (#cite_note-TSI_32-153) She has often been described as a perfectionist who routinely makes impossible, arbitrary demands of subordinates: "kitchen scissors at work", in the words of one commentator. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) She once made a junior staffer look through a photographer's trash to find a picture he had refused to give her. [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) In a deleted scene from The September Issue , she complains about the "horrible white plastic buckets" of ice behind the bars at the CFDA's 7th on Sale AIDS benefit and moves them out of sight. [154] (#cite_note-TSI_deleted_scene-154) "The notion that Anna would want something done 'now' and not 'shortly' is accurate", Amiel says of The Devil Wears Prada . "Anna wants what she wants right away." [155] (#cite_note-Amiel_Maclean's-155) A longtime assistant says, "She throws you in the water and you'll either sink or swim." [156] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer192-156) Peter Braunstein (/wiki/Peter_Braunstein) , a former Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) media reporter convicted of sexually assaulting a coworker, allegedly planned to kill Wintour because of perceived slights. After receiving only one ticket to the 2002 Vogue Fashion Awards, which he perceived as a snub, his anger cost him his job. [157] (#cite_note-Braunstein_NY_Daily_News-157) On one occasion she had to pay for her treatment of employees. In 2004, a court ruled that she and Shaffer were to pay $104,403, and Wintour herself an additional $32,639, to settle a lawsuit brought against them by the New York State Workers' Compensation (/wiki/Workers%27_Compensation) Board. They had failed to pay the $140,000 judgement against them by a former employee of theirs (not the magazine) injured on the job, who did not have the necessary insurance coverage. [158] (#cite_note-TSG-158) In the 2000s, her relationship with Bryan was credited with softening her personality at work. "Even when she's in a bad mood, she has a different posture [...] is that she's so much more mellow and easier to work for", someone described as a "Wintour watcher" told The New York Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) in 2000. [67] (#cite_note-NY_Observer_Plum_Sykes_story-67) Pro-fur stance [ edit ] She has often been the target of animal rights (/wiki/Animal_rights) organisations like PETA (/wiki/PETA) , who are angered by her use of fur in Vogue , her pro-fur editorials and her refusal to run paid advertisements from animal rights organisations. Undeterred, she continues to use fur in photo spreads, saying there is always a way to wear it. [159] (#cite_note-TSI_5:33-159) "Nobody was wearing fur until she put it on the cover in the early 1990s", says Vogue co-worker Tom Florio. "She ignited the entire industry." [160] (#cite_note-TSI_9:25-160) She has "lost count" of the times she has been physically attacked by activists. [161] (#cite_note-Lost_count-161) In Paris in October 2005, she was hit with a tofu pie while waiting to get into the Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) show. [162] (#cite_note-USA_Today-162) On another occasion, an activist dumped a dead raccoon on her plate at a restaurant; she told the waiter to remove it. [107] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_1-107) She and Vogue publisher Ron Galotti (/wiki/Ron_Galotti) once retaliated for a protest outside the Condé Nast offices during the company's annual Christmas party by sending down a plate of roast beef. [163] (#cite_note-Page_Six-163) Others outside of the animal rights community have raised the fur issue. Fashion journalist Peter Braunstein (/wiki/Peter_Braunstein) wrote in his manifesto that she would go to a hell guarded by large rats, where it would be so warm she would not need to wear fur. [164] (#cite_note-Braunstein-164) Pamela Anderson (/wiki/Pamela_Anderson) , in an early 2008 interview, said Wintour was the living person she most despised "because she bullies young designers and models to use and wear fur." [165] (#cite_note-Anderson-165) Elitism [ edit ] Another common criticism of Wintour's editorship focuses on Vogue 's increasing use of celebrities on the cover, and her insistence on making them meet her standards. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) [166] (#cite_note-Celebrities_on_cover-166) [167] (#cite_note-Intelligencer-167) She reportedly told Oprah Winfrey (/wiki/Oprah_Winfrey) to lose weight before her cover photograph. Likewise, Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) was told not to wear a blue suit. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) At the 2005 Anglomania celebration, a Vogue -sponsored salute to British fashion at the Met, Wintour is said to have personally chosen the clothes for prominent attendees such as Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) , Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) , Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) , and Diane von Fürstenberg (/wiki/Diane_von_F%C3%BCrstenberg) . [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) "I don't think Vreeland (/wiki/Diana_Vreeland) had that kind of concentration", says Women's Wear Daily publisher Patrick McCarthy. "She wouldn't have dressed Babe Paley (/wiki/Babe_Paley) . Nor would Babe Paley have let her." By persuading designers to lend clothes to prominent socialites and celebrities, who are then photographed wearing the clothes not only in Vogue but more general-interest magazines like People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) and Us (/wiki/Us_(magazine)) , which in turn influence what buyers want, some in the industry believe Wintour is exerting too much control over it, especially since she is not involved in making or producing clothes herself. "The end result is that Anna can control it all the way to the selling floor", says Candy Pratts Price, executive fashion director at Style.com (/wiki/Style.com) . [63] (#cite_note-Citizen_Anna_22-63) She has been credited with killing grunge fashion (/wiki/Grunge#Clothing_and_fashion) in the early 1990s, when it was not selling well, by telling designers if they continued to avoid glamour their looks would not be photographed for Vogue . All complied. [42] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_4-42) Wintour (photographed by Ed Kavishe of Fashion Wire Press) often insists on being seated apart from other fashion editors at shows. Another Vogue writer has complained Wintour excluded ordinary working women, many of whom are regular subscribers, from the pages. "She's obsessed only about reflecting the aspirations of a certain class of reader", she says. "We once had a piece about breast cancer which started with an airline stewardess (/wiki/Flight_attendant) , but she wouldn't have a stewardess in the magazine so we had to go and look for a high-flying businesswoman who'd had cancer." [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) Wintour has been accused of setting herself apart even from peers. "I do not think fiction could surpass the reality", a British fashion magazine editor says of The Devil Wears Prada . "[A]rt in this instance is only a poor imitation of life." Wintour, the editor says, routinely requests to be seated out of sight of competing editors at shows. "We spend our working lives telling people which it-bag to carry but Anna is so above the rest of us she does not even have a handbag." [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) At Milan Fashion Week (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) in 2008, she requested that some key shows be rescheduled for earlier in the week so she and other U.S.-based editors could have time to return home before the Paris shows. This led to complaints. Other editors said they had to rush through the earlier shows, and lesser-known designers who had to show later were denied an important audience. Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) said Italian fashion was getting short shrift and Milan was becoming a "circus without sense". [168] (#cite_note-Italian_fashion_complaints-168) Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) , who at the time was co-chairing a Met exhibition on superheroes' costumes with Wintour, drew some attention for his personal remarks. "Maybe what she thinks is a beautiful dress, I wouldn't think was a beautiful dress", he said. While he claimed he could not understand why people disliked her, saying he himself was indifferent, he expressed hope she had not made a comment once attributed to her that "the Armani era is over". He accused her of preferring French (/wiki/French_fashion) and American fashion over Italian. [169] (#cite_note-Armani_comments-169) Geoffrey Beene (/wiki/Geoffrey_Beene) , who stopped inviting Wintour to shows after she stopped writing about him, called her "a boss lady in four-wheel drive who ignores or abandons those who do not fuel her tank. As an editor, she has turned class into mass, taste into waste." [42] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_4-42) Her remarks about obesity (/wiki/Obesity) have caused controversy on more than one occasion. In 2005, Wintour was heavily criticised by the New York chapter of the National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance (/wiki/National_Association_to_Advance_Fat_Acceptance) after Vogue editor-at-large André Leon Talley (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Leon_Talley) said on The Oprah Winfrey Show (/wiki/The_Oprah_Winfrey_Show) , at one point, Wintour demanded he lose weight. "Most of the Vogue girls are so thin, tremendously thin", he said, "because Miss Anna don't like fat people." [170] (#cite_note-170) In 2009, residents of Minneapolis (/wiki/Minneapolis) took umbrage after she told 60 Minutes (/wiki/60_Minutes) she could "only kindly describe most of the people I saw as little houses." [171] (#cite_note-171) They noted their city had been named the third fittest in the nation that year by Men's Fitness (/wiki/Men%27s_Fitness) while New York had been named the fifth fattest. [172] (#cite_note-little_houses-172) Wintour surprised observers when developing an association with the Kardashian family and Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) , which culminated in having the Kardashian-Wests on a Vogue cover ; Wintour reportedly commented that having only "deeply tasteful" people in the magazine was "boring", and her decision to resort to such personalities has led some to accuse the magazine of being "desperate for buzz". [173] (#cite_note-173) Wintour has nevertheless continued the association with the pair. [174] (#cite_note-174) Responses [ edit ] Others have defended Wintour. Amanda Fortini at Slate (/wiki/Slate_(magazine)) said she was comfortable with Wintour's elitism since that was intrinsic to fashion: Most of us read Vogue not with the intention of buying the wildly expensive clothes, but because doing so educates our eye and hones our taste, similar to the way eating gourmet food refines the palate. This is a pleasure enabled by Wintour's ruthless aesthetic, her refusal to participate in the democratizing tendency of most of her competitors. To deny her that privilege is to deny her readers the privilege of fantasy in the form of beautifully photographed Paris couture. [39] (#cite_note-Slate-39) Emma Brockes (/wiki/Emma_Brockes) sees this in Wintour herself: "[Her] unwavering ability to look as if she lives within the pages of her magazine has a sort of honesty to it, proof that, whatever one thinks about it, the lifestyle peddled by Vogue is at least physically possible." [146] (#cite_note-What_lies_beneath-146) "Print publications have to be as luxurious an experience as possible", Wintour explained in 2015. "You have to feel it coming off the page. You have to see photographs and pieces that you couldn't possibly see anywhere else." [57] (#cite_note-2015_New_York_interview-57) Some friends see her purported coldness as just traditional British reserve, [155] (#cite_note-Amiel_Maclean's-155) or shyness. [65] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_2-65) Brockes says it may be mutual, "partly a reflection of how awkward people are with her, particularly women, who get preemptively chippy when faced with the prospect of meeting Fashion Incarnate." [146] (#cite_note-What_lies_beneath-146) When Morley Safer (/wiki/Morley_Safer) asked her about complaints about her personality, she said, I have so many people here, Morley, that have worked with me for 15, 20 years, and, you know, if I'm such a bitch, they must really be a glutton for punishment because they're still here. If one comes across sometimes as being cold or brusque, it's simply because I'm striving for the best. [76] (#cite_note-60_Minutes_2-76) She has made similar statements in defence of her reported refusal to hire fat people. "It's important to me that the people that are working here, particularly in the fashion department", she says, "will present themselves in a way that makes sense to the outside world that they work at Vogue ." [65] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_2-65) Her defenders have called criticism sexist (/wiki/Sexism) . "Powerful women in the media always get inspected more thoroughly than their male counterparts", said The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) in a piece about Wintour shortly after The Devil Wears Prada 's release. [175] (#cite_note-Times_Wintour_film_piece-175) When Wintour took over at Vogue , gossip columnist Liz Smith (/wiki/Liz_Smith_(journalist)) reported rumours she had gotten the job through an affair with Si Newhouse (/wiki/Samuel_Irving_Newhouse,_Jr.) . A reportedly furious Wintour made her anger the subject of one of her first staff meetings; [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) she still complained about the allegation when accepting a media award in 2002. [176] (#cite_note-Oppenheimer286-176) She has been called a feminist whose changes to Vogue have reflected, acknowledged, and reinforced advances in the status of women. Reviewing Oppenheimer's book in the Washington Monthly (/wiki/Washington_Monthly) , managing editor Christina Larson notes that Vogue , unlike many other women's magazines, ...doesn't play to its readership's sense of inadequacy ... Instead, it reminds women to take satisfaction, parading all manner of fineries (clothes, furniture, travel destinations) that a successful woman might buy, or at least admire. While it surely exists to sell ads ... it does so primarily by exploiting ambition, not insecurity. [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) Wintour, unlike Vreeland, "...shifted Vogue ' s focus from the cult of beauty to the cult of the creation of beauty." [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) To Wintour, the focus on celebrities is a welcome development as it means women are making the cover of Vogue at least in part for what they have accomplished, not just how they look. [37] (#cite_note-Larson-37) Complaints about her role as fashion éminence grise (/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise) are dismissed by those familiar with how she actually exercises it. "She's honest. She tells you what she thinks. Yes is yes and no is no", according to designer Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) . "She's not too pushy", agrees François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) , chief executive officer of Kering (/wiki/Kering) , Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) 's parent company. "She lets you know it's not a problem if you can't do something she wants." Defenders also point out she continued supporting Gucci despite her strong belief Kering should not have let Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) go. Designers such as Alice Roi (/wiki/Alice_Roi) and Isabel Toledo (/wiki/Isabel_Toledo) have flourished without indulging Wintour or Vogue . [63] (#cite_note-Citizen_Anna_22-63) Her willingness to throw her weight around has helped keep Vogue independent despite its heavy reliance on advertising dollars. Wintour was the only fashion editor who refused to follow an Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani_S.p.A.) ultimatum to feature more of its clothes in the magazine's editorial pages, [109] (#cite_note-Acid_Queen-109) although she has also admitted if she has to choose between two dresses, one by an advertiser and the other not, she will choose the former every time. "Commercial is not a dirty word to me." [42] (#cite_note-Kevin_Gray_profile_4-42) Wintour herself, when asked about it, dismisses the notion that she has all the power attributed to her. "I don't think of myself as a powerful person", she told Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) in 2011, when it named her 69th on its list of the world's hundred most powerful women. "You know, what does it mean? It means you get a better seat in a restaurant or tickets to a screening or whatever it may be. But it is a wonderful opportunity to be able to help others, and for that I'm extremely grateful." [177] (#cite_note-Forbes_power_interview-177) In response to criticisms like Beene's, she has defended the democratisation of what were once exclusive luxury brands. "It means more people are going to get better fashion", she told Dana Thomas (/wiki/Dana_Thomas) . "And the more people who can have fashion, the better." [178] (#cite_note-Dana_Thomas_book-178) See also [ edit ] New Yorkers in journalism (/wiki/New_Yorkers_in_journalism) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Anna Wintour" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181113165847/https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-list/thevoguelist/anna-wintour/1008) . Vogue . Archived from the original (https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-list/thevoguelist/anna-wintour/1008) on 13 November 2018 . Retrieved 1 November 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Obama supporter Anna Wintour reportedly considered for ambassadorial post by administration" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/obama-anna-wintour-ambassador-uk-397574) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180718001407/https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/obama-anna-wintour-ambassador-uk-397574) 18 July 2018 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , The Hollywood Reporter . Retrieved 10 August 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Chris Rovzar, "Anna Wintour, Rest of City Turn Out to Vote" (https://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2008/11/anna_wintour_rest_of_city_turn.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180717212652/http://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2008/11/anna_wintour_rest_of_city_turn.html) 17 July 2018 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , New York , November 2008. Retrieved 11 August 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Lee, Edmund (15 December 2020). "Condé Nast Puts Anna Wintour in Charge of Magazines Worldwide" (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/15/business/media/conde-nast-anna-wintour.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220927220524/https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/15/business/media/conde-nast-anna-wintour.html) from the original on 27 September 2022 . Retrieved 18 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) " (https://www.seattletimes.com/entertainment/movies/the-september-issue-turns-sharp-focus-to-inner-workings-of-vogue/) 'The September Issue' turns sharp focus to inner workings of Vogue" (https://www.seattletimes.com/entertainment/movies/the-september-issue-turns-sharp-focus-to-inner-workings-of-vogue/) . The Seattle Times . 1 October 2009. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220511085707/https://www.seattletimes.com/entertainment/movies/the-september-issue-turns-sharp-focus-to-inner-workings-of-vogue/) from the original on 11 May 2022 . Retrieved 18 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Index entry" (http://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=f%2B3mJfgFNtnE3pXq4VL9zg&scan=1) . FreeBMD . ONS. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210730195752/https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=f%2B3mJfgFNtnE3pXq4VL9zg&scan=1) from the original on 30 July 2021 . Retrieved 31 December 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Index entry" (http://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=uDgHQDyoficmcvX6toRpog&scan=1) . FreeBMD . ONS. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210730195801/https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=uDgHQDyoficmcvX6toRpog&scan=1) from the original on 30 July 2021 . Retrieved 31 December 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer2_8-0) Oppenheimer, 2 (https://books.google.com/books?id=Wq3WpfuFc1oC&pg=PA2) . "Eleanor Baker, an American, met Wintour at Cambridge University in England in the fall of 1939 ... [Her mother], Anna Gilkyson Baker, for whom Anna Wintour was named, was a charming, matronly, somewhat ditzy society girl from Philadelphia's Main Line (/wiki/Philadelphia_Main_Line) ..." ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer99_9-0) Oppenheimer, 99. "...[H]er animosity intensif[ied] after her father married Slaughter." ^ (#cite_ref-The_Media_in_Britain_10-0) Tunstall, Jeremy (1983). The Media in Britain . Columbia University Press. p. 103. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-231-05816-0 . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240226032147/https://books.google.com/books?id=p4J80JqdUZgC&q=%22Audrey%20Slaughter%22%2Bhoney&pg=PA103#v=onepage&q=%22Audrey%20Slaughter%22%2Bhoney&f=false) from the original on 26 February 2024 . Retrieved 10 June 2010 . ...[F]or example a newish magazine is often identified with a particular editor; an example is the association of Audrey Slaughter in the 1960s and 70s with a succession of young women's publications — Honey , Petticoat , and Over 21 . ^ (#cite_ref-Lady_Foster_11-0) Masters, Brian (1981). Georgiana Duchess of Devonshire . London, UK: Hamish Hamilton. pp. 298–99. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-241-10662-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "WINTOUR, Maj Gen Fitzgerald (1860–1949) – Archives Hub" (https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/920bb3aa-39b2-3494-91c7-528e45016b43) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220828140023/https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/920bb3aa-39b2-3494-91c7-528e45016b43) from the original on 28 August 2022 . Retrieved 29 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer6_13-0) Oppenheimer, 6 ^ (#cite_ref-Patrick_Wintour_14-0) Patrick Wintour, chief political correspondent (https://www.theguardian.com/profile/patrickwintour) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200411124139/https://www.theguardian.com/profile/patrickwintour) 11 April 2020 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; The Guardian . Retrieved 6 December 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-Camden_News_Journal_story_15-0) Osley, Richard (13 May 2010). "Former Camden Town Hall director Jim Wintour 'quit over pension' – Housing boss feared new tax proposal" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110708113339/http://www.camdennewjournal.com/news/2010/may/former-camden-town-hall-director-jim-wintour-%E2%80%98quit-over-pension%E2%80%99-housing-boss-feared-n) . Camden New Journal (/wiki/Camden_New_Journal) . Archived from the original (http://www.camdennewjournal.com/news/2010/may/former-camden-town-hall-director-jim-wintour-%E2%80%98quit-over-pension%E2%80%99-housing-boss-feared-n) on 8 July 2011 . Retrieved 2 June 2010 . Mr Wintour, who is brother of Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue ... ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer15_16-0) Oppenheimer, 15 ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer21_17-0) Oppenheimer, 21. ^ Jump up to: a b Oppenheimer, 22. ^ Jump up to: a b The September Issue , 0:19. ^ (#cite_ref-September_Issue_18:35_20-0) The September Issue , 0:18. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer42-44_21-0) Oppenheimer, 42–44. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer51_22-0) Oppenheimer, 51. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer58-62_23-0) Oppenheimer, 58–62. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer63_24-0) Oppenheimer, 63. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer70_25-0) Oppenheimer, 70. ^ (#cite_ref-26) Adams, Jo (11 September 2005). "A Scooterman's Portfolio" (https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2005/sep/11/photography.fashion) . The Guardian . London. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220730071020/https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2005/sep/11/photography.fashion) from the original on 30 July 2022 . Retrieved 25 November 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Oppenheimer, 81. "She quickly built up a reputation of being able to round up the best people and locations, mainly because of her connections through her father, pals like Nigel Dempster, and other well-placed people she met socially." ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Metropolitan Museum of Art; 12 January 1999; Anna Wintour elected honorary trustee (http://www.metmuseum.org/Press_Room/full_release.asp?prid={44C504B8-C28F-11D3-936E-00902786BF44}) . Retrieved 6 December 2006. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20071119020206/http://www.metmuseum.org/Press_Room/full_release.asp?prid=%7B44C504B8-C28F-11D3-936E-00902786BF44%7D) 19 November 2007 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer96_29-0) Oppenheimer, 96. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer100_30-0) Oppenheimer, 100. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer109_31-0) Oppenheimer, 109. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer107_32-0) Oppenheimer, 107. ^ (#cite_ref-James_Corden_2017_appearance_33-0) Schnurr, Samantha (26 October 2017). "Anna Wintour Reveals Who She Would Never Invite Back to the Met Gala" (http://www.eonline.com/news/889550/anna-wintour-reveals-who-she-would-never-invite-back-to-the-met-gala) . E! (/wiki/E!) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20171026211057/http://www.eonline.com/news/889550/anna-wintour-reveals-who-she-would-never-invite-back-to-the-met-gala) from the original on 26 October 2017 . Retrieved 26 October 2017 . As for how Bob Marley is in bed, Wintour cleared that up as well. 'Fake news! I've never actually met Bob Marley,' she told Corden, clearing up any rumors that the two dated. However, Corden continued, 'Had you met him, would you have slept with him?' Her answer? 'Absolutely.' ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer118_34-0) Oppenheimer, p. 118. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer120_35-0) Oppenheimer, p. 120. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer152_36-0) Oppenheimer, 152. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j Larson, Christina; April 2005; From Venus To Minerva (http://www.washingtonmonthly.com/features/2005/0504.larson2.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20061128222851/http://www.washingtonmonthly.com/features/2005/0504.larson2.html) 28 November 2006 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; Washington Monthly . Retrieved 11 December 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer159_38-0) Oppenheimer, p. 159. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k Fortini, Amanda; 10 February 2005; Defending (https://slate.com/culture/2005/02/defending-vogue-s-evil-genius.html) Vogue 's evil genius (https://slate.com/culture/2005/02/defending-vogue-s-evil-genius.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110919085652/http://www.slate.com/id/2113278/) 19 September 2011 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; Slate . Retrieved 6 December 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer188_40-0) Oppenheimer, 188. ^ (#cite_ref-September_Issue_1:12:00_41-0) The September Issue , 1:12:00. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Gray, 4. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer190_43-0) Oppenheimer, p. 190. ^ Jump up to: a b c Oppenheimer, p. 207. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer208-10_45-0) Oppenheimer, pp. 208–10. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer193_46-0) Oppenheimer, 193. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer223_47-0) Oppenheimer, p. 223. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer230_48-0) Oppenheimer, 230. ^ Jump up to: a b c Oppenheimer, 243. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer240_50-0) Oppenheimer, 240. ^ Jump up to: a b Oppenheimer, 269. ^ (#cite_ref-Time_1988_52-0) Zuckerman, Lawrence; 13 June 1988; The Dynamic Duo at Condé Nast (https://web.archive.org/web/20070930103628/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,967685-1,00.html) , Time . Retrieved 8 February 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer271_53-0) Oppenheimer, 271. ^ Jump up to: a b Thomas, Mark Guiducci, Sean (26 August 2014). "Gigi Hadid, Model of the Moment, Pays Tribute to Anna Wintour's First (http://www.vogue.com/1019685/gigi-hadid-vogue-cover/) Vogue Cover" (http://www.vogue.com/1019685/gigi-hadid-vogue-cover/) . Vogue . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160502011817/http://www.vogue.com/1019685/gigi-hadid-vogue-cover) from the original on 2 May 2016 . Retrieved 4 May 2016 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-Wintour_on_Bercu_cover_55-0) Wintour, Anna (14 August 2012). "Honoring the 120th Anniversary: Anna Wintour Shares Her Vogue Story" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140711185515/http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/anna-wintour-on-her-first-vogue-cover-plus-a-slideshow-of-her-favorite-images-in-vogue/#1) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/anna-wintour-on-her-first-vogue-cover-plus-a-slideshow-of-her-favorite-images-in-vogue/#1) on 11 July 2014 . Retrieved 22 August 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-CBS_News_2011_interview_56-0) "Vogue puts its 120-year history online" (http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-3445_162-57340950/vogue-puts-its-120-year-history-online) . CBS News . 11 December 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20111222091550/http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-3445_162-57340950/vogue-puts-its-120-year-history-online/) from the original on 22 December 2011 . Retrieved 22 December 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b LaRocca, Amy (4 May 2015). "In Conversation With Anna Wintour" (https://nymag.com/thecut/2015/05/anna-wintour-amy-larocca-in-conversation.html) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150822000340/http://nymag.com/thecut/2015/05/anna-wintour-amy-larocca-in-conversation.html) from the original on 22 August 2015 . Retrieved 14 August 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer244_58-0) Oppenheimer, p. 244. ^ (#cite_ref-NY_Observer_Plum_Sykes_story2_59-0) Snyder, Gabriel (17 December 2000). "Bright Young Thing, Plum Sykes, Abandons Vogue, Sort Of" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100513182359/http://www.observer.com/node/43767) . The New York Observer . Archived from the original (https://www.observer.com/node/43767) on 13 May 2010 . Retrieved 11 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer325_60-0) Oppenheimer, 325. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer326_61-0) Oppenheimer, 326. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer_on_poor_writing_62-0) Oppenheimer, pp. 70–71, 123–24, 161–62, 179–80. ^ Jump up to: a b c Horyn, "Citizen Anna", 2. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer293-96_64-0) Oppenheimer, pp. 293–96. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Gray, pg. 2. ^ Jump up to: a b Gray, pg. 3. ^ Jump up to: a b Snyder, Gabriel (17 December 2000). "Bright Young Thing, Plum Sykes, Abandons Vogue, Sort Of" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100513182359/http://www.observer.com/node/43767) . The New York Observer . Archived from the original (https://www.observer.com/node/43767) on 13 May 2010 . Retrieved 11 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Folio_68-0) "Anna Wintour:Editor-in-Chief, Vogue" (http://www.foliomag.com/2006/anna-wintour-editor-chief-vogue) . 29 March 2006. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120227133508/http://www.foliomag.com/2006/anna-wintour-editor-chief-vogue) from the original on 27 February 2012 . Retrieved 24 June 2010 . And Men's Vogue , with 164 pages, was the most ad-laden launch in Condé Nast history ^ (#cite_ref-Editor_of_the_Year_69-0) "Magazine Editor of the Year: Anna Wintour" (http://adage.com/amc06/article?article_id=112639) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20061114003830/http://adage.com/amc06/article?article_id=112639) 14 November 2006 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Advertising Age , 22 October 2006. Retrieved 8 February 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-70) "No. 58729" (https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/58729/supplement/25) . The London Gazette (/wiki/The_London_Gazette) (Supplement). 14 June 2008. p. 25. ^ (#cite_ref-OBE_71-0) Anna Wintour awarded OBE (https://web.archive.org/web/20081220170145/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/3364968/Anna-Wintour-awarded-OBE.html) , The Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 14 June 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-Daily_Telegraph_Lebron_cover_story_72-0) Sherwell, Philip (30 March 2008). "Race row over 'King Kong' Vogue cover" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1583333/Race-row-over-King-Kong-Vogue-cover.html) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0307-1235 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0307-1235) . Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1583333/Race-row-over-King-Kong-Vogue-cover.html) from the original on 12 January 2022 . Retrieved 8 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Men's_Vogue_folding_73-0) Mullaney, Tim (30 October 2008). "Condé Nast to Fold Men's Vogue, Cut Back Portfolio" (https://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601103&sid=a3l1r3s.uPK0) . Bloomberg. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240226032203/https://www.bloomberg.com/politics?pid=20601103&sid=a3l1r3s.uPK0) from the original on 26 February 2024 . Retrieved 14 June 2010 . Condé Nast Publications Inc. will fold Men's Vogue into the larger women's Vogue magazine [...] because of faltering advertising sales. Men's Vogue will be published twice a year, the closely held New York-based publisher said today in an e-mail. ^ Jump up to: a b Horyn, Cathy (/wiki/Cathy_Horyn) (1 January 2009). "What's Wrong With Vogue?" (https://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/01/fashion/01ANNA.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120131232721/http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/01/fashion/01ANNA.html) from the original on 31 January 2012 . Retrieved 14 August 2009 . It's embarrassing to see how Vogue deals with the recession. For the December issue, it sent a writer off to discover the 'charms' of WalMart and Target. A similar obtuseness permeates a fashion spread in the January issue, where a model and a child are portrayed on a weekend outing with a Superman figure. Is a '50s suburban frock emblematic of the mortgage meltdown? ^ (#cite_ref-NY_mag_The_Cut_75-0) "Why Anna Wintour Isn't Going Anywhere" (https://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/10/anna_wintour.html) . New York . 2 October 2008. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20111114195728/http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/10/anna_wintour.html) from the original on 14 November 2011 . Retrieved 14 August 2009 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Safer, 4. ^ (#cite_ref-77) "The September Issue, the documentary feature film" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090228183841/http://arp.tv/production.html?production=septissue) . Actual Reality Pictures. Archived from the original (http://www.arp.tv/production.html?production=septissue) on 28 February 2009 . Retrieved 16 August 2009 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hill, Amelia (24 May 2009). "Film reveals soft side to Vogue's icy style queen Anna Wintour" (https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/24/anna-wintour-vogue-film-documentary) . The Observer . London, UK. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130906130222/http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/24/anna-wintour-vogue-film-documentary) from the original on 6 September 2013 . Retrieved 17 August 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Letterman_appearance_79-0) Lapowsky, Issie (25 August 2009). "Vogue editor Anna Wintour gets laughs on 'Late Show with David Letterman' (http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintours_appearance_on_late_show_with_david_letterman_a_hit.html) " (http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintours_appearance_on_late_show_with_david_letterman_a_hit.html) . Daily News . New York. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090828002921/http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintours_appearance_on_late_show_with_david_letterman_a_hit.html) from the original on 28 August 2009 . Retrieved 27 August 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Letterman_appearance_Daily_News_2_80-0) Hinckley, Dave (25 August 2009). "Anna Wintour on David Letterman: ice queen thaws, but doesn't melt hearts under TV spotlight" (http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintour_on_david_letterman_.html) . Daily News . New York. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090828151312/http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintour_on_david_letterman_.html) from the original on 28 August 2009 . Retrieved 27 August 2009 . She became more perfunctory when Dave asked the two questions that probably most interest the non-fashionista. First, what happens to high fashion in a down economy, and second, does anyone wear the really bizarre stuff you see at fashion shows? Wintour's reply to the first question was that fashion is available at all prices, and that's probably true. ^ (#cite_ref-ASME_Hall_of_Fame_81-0) Fell, Jason (23 February 2010). "Vogue's Wintour Gets ASME's Hall of Fame Nod" (http://www.foliomag.com/2010/vogue-s-wintour-gets-asme-s-hall-fame-nod) . Folio . Red 7 Media LLC. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100227003943/http://www.foliomag.com/2010/vogue-s-wintour-gets-asme-s-hall-fame-nod) from the original on 27 February 2010 . Retrieved 25 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_artistic_director_story_82-0) Wilson, Eric (12 March 2013). "Condé Nast Adds to Job of Longtime Vogue Editor" (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/13/business/media/conde-nast-creates-new-job-for-anna-wintour.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130316010427/http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/13/business/media/conde-nast-creates-new-job-for-anna-wintour.html) from the original on 16 March 2013 . Retrieved 16 March 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Met_Names_Costume_Institute_Complex_in_Honor_of_Anna_Wintour_83-0) Karimzadeh, Marc (14 January 2014). "Met Names Costume Institute Complex in Honor of Anna Wintour" (http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/met-names-costume-institute-complex-in-honor-of-anna-wintour-7360586?src=nl/mornReport/20140115) . Women's Wear Daily . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140116152221/http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/met-names-costume-institute-complex-in-honor-of-anna-wintour-7360586?src=nl%2FmornReport%2F20140115) from the original on 16 January 2014 . Retrieved 15 January 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-84) Koblin, John (5 May 2014). "At Met Gala, Fashionistas Dress Up in Tribute" (http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/w/anna_wintour/index.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140809145830/http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/w/anna_wintour/index.html) from the original on 9 August 2014 . 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Retrieved 13 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-105) "Anna Wintour's Daughter Bee Shaffer Marries Francesco Carrozzini Again: See Her Second Wedding Dress!" (https://people.com/style/bee-shaffer-marries-francesco-carrozzini-second-ceremony-italy/) . PEOPLE.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210202044206/https://people.com/style/bee-shaffer-marries-francesco-carrozzini-second-ceremony-italy/) from the original on 2 February 2021 . Retrieved 13 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer340-41_106-0) Oppenheimer, 341–42, ^ Jump up to: a b c Gray, 1. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer342_108-0) Oppenheimer, 342. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g 25 June 2006; " Meet the acid queen of New York fashion (https://www.theguardian.com/film/2006/jun/25/features.review) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160502165546/http://www.theguardian.com/film/2006/jun/25/features.review) 2 May 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) "; The Observer . Retrieved 7 February 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-NYT20160929_110-0) Kurutz, Steven. "What Do Anna Wintour and Bob Dylan Have in Common? This Secret Garden" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/29/fashion/new-york-secret-garden-anna-wintour-bob-dylan.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190214174225/https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/29/fashion/new-york-secret-garden-anna-wintour-bob-dylan.html) 14 February 2019 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , The New York Times , 28 September 2016. Accessed 3 November 2016. "The house is part of the Macdougal-Sullivan Gardens Historic District, a landmarked community of 21 row homes, with 11 lining Macdougal Street and 10 running parallel on Sullivan Street." ^ (#cite_ref-Boss_Woman_review_111-0) Money-Coutts, Sophia (2 August 2009). "Vogue documentary tries to get a read on the chilly Wintour" (http://www.thenational.ae/arts-culture/film/vogue-documentary-tries-to-get-a-read-on-the-chilly-wintour) . The National . 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Retrieved 28 October 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-121) Wintour, Anna (16 March 2020). "Anna Wintour on COVID-19, the Met Gala, and Why She Will Be Voting for Joe Biden" (https://www.vogue.com/article/anna-wintour-joe-biden-covid-19-the-met-gala) . Vogue . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201024072635/https://www.vogue.com/article/anna-wintour-joe-biden-covid-19-the-met-gala) from the original on 24 October 2020 . Retrieved 24 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger_autobio_122-0) Weisberger, Lauren (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) . "Author Lauren Weisberger" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080224050910/http://www.laurenweisberger.com/about.php) . laurenweisberger.com. Archived from the original (http://www.laurenweisberger.com/about.php) on 24 February 2008 . Retrieved 14 August 2009 . Lauren's first job after returning to the U.S. and moving to Manhattan was the Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, Anna Wintour. ^ (#cite_ref-2005_NYT_Weisberger_story_123-0) Kinetz, Erica (6 November 2005). "Devil's in the Follow-Up" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/fashion/sundaystyles/06LAUREN.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110429061221/http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/fashion/sundaystyles/06LAUREN.html?) from the original on 29 April 2011 . Retrieved 19 June 2010 . ^ Jump up to: a b Betts, Kate (13 April 2003). "Anna Dearest" (https://nytimes.com/2003/04/13/books/review/13BETTS2T.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100526025721/http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/13/books/review/13BETTS2T.html) from the original on 26 May 2010 . Retrieved 14 June 2010 . It's hard to get past the onslaught of Page Six (/wiki/Page_Six) gossip and film-rights buzz that has preceded The Devil Wears Prada, Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) 's thinly veiled roman à clef (/wiki/Roman_%C3%A0_clef) about her thankless year sidetracked in the trenches of a fashion magazine. ^ (#cite_ref-Times_quote_125-0) Carr, David; 17 February 2003; Anna Wintour Steps Toward Fashion's New Democracy (https://www.nytimes.com/2003/02/17/business/media/17MAG.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160313023818/http://www.nytimes.com/2003/02/17/business/media/17MAG.html) 13 March 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; The New York Times . Retrieved 10 December 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger_Q_&_A_126-0) "A Conversation With Lauren Weisberger" (http://www.randomhouse.com/features/devilwearsprada/qanda.html) . Random House. 2004. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140924080426/http://www.randomhouse.com/features/devilwearsprada/qanda.html) from the original on 24 September 2014 . Retrieved 14 August 2009 . Some of the stories aren't so far away from the tasks either I or my friends in various industries—whether fashion or magazines or PR or advertising—went through our first few years out of college. I imagine that assistants everywhere will recognize some of their own experiences in Andrea's life. ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger322_127-0) Weisberger, 322. "Immediately I recognized Anna Wintour, looking absolutely ravishing in a cream-colored slip dress and beaded Manolo (/wiki/Manolo_Blahnik) sandals. She was talking animatedly to a man I presumed to be her boyfriend, although her giant Chanel sunglasses prevented me from being able to tell if she was amused, indifferent or sobbing. The press loved to compare the antics and attitudes of Anna and Miranda, but I found it impossible to believe that anyone could be quite as unbearable as my boss." ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger348_128-0) Weisberger, 348. "'Maybe I should try to work for one of her enemies? They'd be happy to hire me, right' Sure. Send your resume over to Anna Wintour—they've never liked each other very much." ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger38–9_129-0) Weisberger, 38–39. "I had Googled her and was surprised to find Miranda Priestly was born Miriam Princhek in London's East End (/wiki/East_End_of_London) ... Her rough, Cockney-girl accent was soon replaced by a carefully cultivated, educated one ... She moved her two daughters and her then rock-star husband ..." ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger267_130-0) Weisberger, 267. ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger145_131-0) Weisberger, 145. " Ah yes. Mrs. Whitmore. I am a lucky girl indeed . I'm so lucky, you have no idea. I can't tell you how lucky I felt when I was sent out to get tampons for my boss, only to be told that I'd bought the wrong ones and asked why I do nothing right. And luck is probably the only way to explain why I get to sort another person's sweat- and food-stained clothing each morning before eight and arrange to have it cleaned. Oh wait! I think what actually makes me luckiest of all is getting to talk to breeders all over the tristate area for three straight weeks in search of the perfect French bulldog puppy so two incredibly spoiled and unfriendly little girls can each have their own pet. Yes, that's it! " ^ (#cite_ref-NY_Observer_Betts_firing_story_132-0) Jacobs, Alexandra (10 June 2001). "Good Witch Glenda Comes to Bazaar as Classy, Chilly Kate Gets Gate" (https://observer.com/2001/06/good-witch-glenda-comes-to-bazaar-as-classy-chilly-kate-gets-gate/) . The New York Observer . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201101093359/https://observer.com/2001/06/good-witch-glenda-comes-to-bazaar-as-classy-chilly-kate-gets-gate/) from the original on 1 November 2020 . Retrieved 9 October 2020 . [She] adopted every Anna Wintourism under the sun, down to mannerisms, posture, [a] way of carrying herself in the office, a certain way of crossing her legs, leaning on her elbow at a certain way at her desk. It was eerie, at times, how similar she acted to Anna—always sequestered in her corner office, with her two assistants perched there like little lion guard dogs. ^ (#cite_ref-Weisberger208_133-0) Weisberger, 208. "Miranda was as far as I could tell, a truly fantastic editor. Not a single word of copy made it into the magazine without her explicit, hard-to-obtain approval ... Although the various fashion editors called in the clothes they wanted to shoot, Miranda alone selected the looks she wanted and which models she wanted wearing each one ... [T]hat made her, in my mind, the main reason for the magazine's stunning success each month. Runway wouldn't be Runway — hell, it wouldn't be much of anything at all – without Miranda Priestly. I knew it and so did everyone else." ^ (#cite_ref-novel_cite2_134-0) Weisberger, 271–72. "I never grew tired of watching Miranda. She was the true lady and the envy of every woman in the museum that night." ^ Jump up to: a b "The Devil You Know, On Line One" (https://radaronline.com/exclusives/2008/01/the-devil-you-know-on-line-one-php/) . Radar Online (/wiki/Radar_Online) . 30 January 2008 [November 2005]. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140703030434/https://radaronline.com/exclusives/2008/01/the-devil-you-know-on-line-one-php/) from the original on 3 July 2014 . Retrieved 25 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-boxofficemojo_136-0) The Devil Wears Prada (https://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=devilwearsprada.htm) Archived (http://archive.wikiwix.com/cache/20110223131033/http://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=devilwearsprada.htm) 23 February 2011 at Wikiwix at boxofficemojo.com. Retrieved 8 February 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_DWP_film_review_137-0) Scott, A.O. (/wiki/A.O._Scott) (30 June 2006). "In 'The Devil Wears Prada,' Meryl Streep Plays the Terror of the Fashion World" (https://movies.nytimes.com/2006/06/30/movies/30devi.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100705061254/http://movies.nytimes.com/2006/06/30/movies/30devi.html) from the original on 5 July 2010 . Retrieved 15 June 2010 . No longer simply the incarnation of evil, she is now a vision of aristocratic, purposeful and surprisingly human grace ... And the movie, while noting that she can be sadistic, inconsiderate and manipulative, is unmistakably on Miranda's side ^ (#cite_ref-UK_Indepdendent_review_138-0) Quinn, Anthony (6 October 2006). "Claws out, dressed to kill" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061108015222/http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/film/reviews/article1808686.ece) . The Independent . London. Archived from the original (http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/film/reviews/article1808686.ece) on 8 November 2006 . Retrieved 15 June 2010 . [Streep] may just have given us a classic here ^ (#cite_ref-Whitworth_139-0) Whitworth, Melissa (9 June 2006). "The Devil has all the best costumes" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081220170043/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/3355862/The-Devil-has-all-the-best-costumes.html) . The Daily Telegraph . London. Archived from the original (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/3355862/The-Devil-has-all-the-best-costumes.html) on 20 December 2008 . Retrieved 6 February 2007 . ... after seeing the film, Wintour apparently decided to redecorate her office because the film set was almost an exact replica. ^ (#cite_ref-Barbara_Walters_140-0) Walter, Barbara (12 December 2006). "Anna Wintour: Always in Vogue" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061213224316/https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=2716887&page=3) . ABC News . Archived from the original (https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=2716887&page=3) on 13 December 2006 . Retrieved 18 December 2006 . ^ Jump up to: a b Oppenheimer, 328. ^ (#cite_ref-Lloyd_Grove_142-0) Grove, Lloyd (/wiki/Lloyd_Grove) (2 May 2006). "Author Goes From 'Prada' To Nada" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090614065406/http://www.nydailynews.com/archives/gossip/2006/05/02/2006-05-02_author_goes_from__prada__to_.html) . Daily News . New York. Archived from the original (http://www.nydailynews.com/archives/gossip/2006/05/02/2006-05-02_author_goes_from__prada__to_.html) on 14 June 2009 . 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" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090830035531/http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1918962,00.html) The September Issue : Humanizing the Devil" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090830035531/http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1918962,00.html) . Time . Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1918962,00.html) on 30 August 2009 . Retrieved 6 September 2009 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Brockes, Emma; 27 May 2006; " What lies beneath (https://www.theguardian.com/media/2006/may/27/pressandpublishing.fashion) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161221125403/https://www.theguardian.com/media/2006/may/27/pressandpublishing.fashion) 21 December 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) "; The Guardian . Retrieved 23 March 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-Johnny_Depp_in_Time_147-0) Rebecca Winters (26 June 2005). "Just a Couple of Eccentrics" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100726232831/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0%2C9171%2C1077302%2C00.html) . Time . Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1077302,00.html) on 26 July 2010 . Retrieved 24 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Seattle_P-I_Ugly_Betty_review_148-0) McFarland, Melanie (28 September 2006). "On TV: 'Ugly Betty' tackles the cruel fashion world with grace" (http://www.seattlepi.com/tv/286670_tv28.html) . Seattle Post-Intelligencer . Retrieved 17 August 2009 . Family love steels her against what she has to face on her job at Mode magazine, which lost its Anna Wintour-like leader Fey Sommers in a car accident. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimerxi_149-0) Oppenheimer, xi ^ (#cite_ref-TSI_11:55_150-0) The September Issue , 0:11. ^ (#cite_ref-TSI_1:11_151-0) The September Issue , 1:11. ^ (#cite_ref-Stummer_152-0) Stummer, Robin; 18 June 2006; " Nuclear Wintour: The Movie (https://web.archive.org/web/20081224022430/http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/films/news/nuclear-wintour-the-movie-404514.html) "; The Independent on Sunday . Retrieved 7 February 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-TSI_32_153-0) The September Issue , 32:15. ^ (#cite_ref-TSI_deleted_scene_154-0) The September Issue , "7th on Sale" 4:30. ^ Jump up to: a b Amiel, Barbara (/wiki/Barbara_Amiel) (30 June 2006). "This devil isn't Anna" (https://archive.macleans.ca/article/2006/7/1/this-devil-isnt-anna) . Maclean's (/wiki/Maclean%27s) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190412015316/https://archive.macleans.ca/article/2006/7/1/this-devil-isnt-anna) from the original on 12 April 2019 . Retrieved 8 February 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer192_156-0) Oppenheimer, 192. ^ (#cite_ref-Braunstein_NY_Daily_News_157-0) Ross, Barbara; Siemaszko, Corky (15 May 2007). "Fiend dream to slay the style queen" (https://www.nydailynews.com/news/crime/fiend-dream-slay-style-queen-article-1.251890) . New York Daily News (/wiki/New_York_Daily_News) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180415214053/https://www.nydailynews.com/news/crime/fiend-dream-slay-style-queen-article-1.251890) from the original on 15 April 2018 . Retrieved 15 May 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-TSG_158-0) Bastone, William; 18 May 2004; Wintour In $140,000 Worker's Comp Default (http://www.thesmokinggun.com/archive/0518043anna1.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20061230235852/http://www.thesmokinggun.com/archive/0518043anna1.html) 30 December 2006 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; The Smoking Gun . Retrieved 10 December 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-TSI_5:33_159-0) The September Issue , 0:05. ^ (#cite_ref-TSI_9:25_160-0) The September Issue , 0:09 ^ (#cite_ref-Lost_count_161-0) Trebay, Guy (27 February 2006). "Fashion Diary: Why She's the No. 1 Target in the Glamour Business" (https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/27/fashion/shows/why-shes-the-no-1-target-in-the-glamour-business.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180212141833/http://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/27/fashion/shows/why-shes-the-no-1-target-in-the-glamour-business.html) from the original on 12 February 2018 . Retrieved 9 August 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-USA_Today_162-0) "Anti-fur demonstrators hit 'Vogue' editor with a pie in Paris" (https://www.usatoday.com/life/people/2005-10-10-vogue-wintour_x.htm) . USA Today . Associated Press. 10 October 2005. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20101016034936/http://www.usatoday.com/life/people/2005-10-10-vogue-wintour_x.htm) from the original on 16 October 2010 . Retrieved 24 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Page_Six_163-0) Johnson, Richard (19 December 1997). "Vogue fights PETA beef with beef" (https://web.archive.org/web/20091001013700/http://www.voguesucks.com/artwint6.gif) . Archived from the original (http://www.voguesucks.com/artwint6.gif) on 1 October 2009 . Retrieved 24 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Braunstein_164-0) "Peter Braunstein wrote about killing Vogue editor" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110629034329/http://abclocal.go.com/wabc/story?section=news%2Flocal&id=5303570) . New York: WABC-TV. 14 May 2007. Archived from the original (http://abclocal.go.com/wabc/story?section=news/local&id=5303570) on 29 June 2011 . Retrieved 24 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Anderson_165-0) "Pamela Anderson's bedroom heels" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081224212535/http://www.monstersandcritics.com/people/news/article_1387861.php) . Monsters and Critics . 22 January 2008. Archived from the original (http://www.monstersandcritics.com/people/news/article_1387861.php) on 24 December 2008 . Retrieved 24 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-Celebrities_on_cover_166-0) Derrick, Robin; 6 November 2006; In 'Vogue' for 90 Years (https://web.archive.org/web/20090619222544/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/media/in-vogue--for-90-years-423221.html) ; The Independent . Retrieved 12 August 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-Intelligencer_167-0) Landman, Beth, and Mitchell, Deborah; 28 September 1998; But Can Oprah Fit Into Alaia? (https://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/columns/intelligencer/3206/index.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190714154212/http://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/columns/intelligencer/3206/index.html) 14 July 2019 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; New York . Retrieved 2 March 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-Italian_fashion_complaints_168-0) Moore, Malcolm; 22 February 2008; " Dolce & Gabbana slams Milan Fashion Week (https://web.archive.org/web/20100528014419/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/labels/dolcegabbana/3364542/Dolce-and-Gabbana-slams-Milan-Fashion-Week.html) "; The Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 23 February 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-Armani_comments_169-0) Peck, Sally; 21 February 2008; " Giorgio Armani attacks Vogue's Anna Wintour (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1579440/Giorgio-Armani-attacks-Vogues-Anna-Wintour.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161229025036/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1579440/Giorgio-Armani-attacks-Vogues-Anna-Wintour.html) 29 December 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) "; The Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 23 February 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-170) Pittsburgh Tribune-Review ; 19 September 2005; " Vogue fat comment raises group's ire (http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/s_375745.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20071114152307/http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/s_375745.html) 14 November 2007 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) "; United Press International. Retrieved 18 October 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-171) Odell, Amy (18 May 2009). "60 Minutes Outtakes: Anna Wintour on Fur, Photoshop, and Obese People" (https://www.thecut.com/2009/05/60_minutes_outtakes_anna_winto.html) . New York Magazine (/wiki/New_York_Magazine) . Retrieved 20 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-little_houses_172-0) Fryer, Joe (20 May 2009). " (http://www.kare11.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=718530&catid=14) 'Vogue' editor likens Minnesotans to 'little houses' (http://www.kare11.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=718530&catid=14) " (http://www.kare11.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=718530&catid=14) . KARE . Retrieved 20 May 2009 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-173) Feeney, Nolan. "Anna Wintour Implies That Kim Kardashian and Kanye West Are Not 'Deeply Tasteful' (http://time.com/3595368/anna-wintour-kim-kardashian-kanye-west-vogue-cover/) " (http://time.com/3595368/anna-wintour-kim-kardashian-kanye-west-vogue-cover/) . Time . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151202010243/http://time.com/3595368/anna-wintour-kim-kardashian-kanye-west-vogue-cover/) from the original on 2 December 2015 . Retrieved 15 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-174) "Anna Wintour, Kanye West, and Kim Kardashian West Host an Intimate Celebratory Soiree for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in Los Angeles" (http://www.vogue.com/13363097/anna-wintour-kanye-kim-kardashian-west-cfda-vogue-fashion-fund-la-dinner-2015/) . 21 October 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117022414/http://www.vogue.com/13363097/anna-wintour-kanye-kim-kardashian-west-cfda-vogue-fashion-fund-la-dinner-2015/) from the original on 17 November 2015 . Retrieved 15 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-Times_Wintour_film_piece_175-0) Carr, David; 10 July 2006; " The Devil Wears Teflon (http://plainsfeminist.blogspot.com/2006/07/devil-you-say.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20061030163911/http://plainsfeminist.blogspot.com/2006/07/devil-you-say.html) 30 October 2006 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) "; The New York Times , retrieved from plainsfeminist.blogspot.com 10 December 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-Oppenheimer286_176-0) Oppenheimer, 286. ^ (#cite_ref-Forbes_power_interview_177-0) Goudreau, Jenna (24 August 2011). "Vogue's Anna Wintour: Intimidating, No. Powerful, Yes" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/jennagoudreau/2011/08/24/vogue-anna-wintour-intimidating-powerful-forbes-power-women-fashion/) . Forbes . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20111227192922/http://www.forbes.com/sites/jennagoudreau/2011/08/24/vogue-anna-wintour-intimidating-powerful-forbes-power-women-fashion/) from the original on 27 December 2011 . Retrieved 22 December 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-Dana_Thomas_book_178-0) Thomas, Dana (2007). Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster . Penguin Press. p. 322 (https://archive.org/details/deluxehowluxuryl00thom/page/322) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-59420-129-5 . Works cited [ edit ] Cutler, R.J. (director) (/wiki/R.J._Cutler) (2009). The September Issue (/wiki/The_September_Issue) (Motion picture). Roadside Attractions (/wiki/Roadside_Attractions) . Gray, Kevin (13 September 1999). "The Summer of Her Discontent" (https://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/features/1460/) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . Retrieved 14 August 2009 . Horyn, Cathy (/wiki/Cathy_Horyn) (1 February 2007). " Citizen Anna (https://web.archive.org/web/20120828180717/http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/01/fashion/01WINTOUR.htm) ". The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 2 February 2007. Oppenheimer, Jerry (/wiki/Jerry_Oppenheimer) (2005). Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor In Chief . St. Martin's Press (/wiki/St._Martin%27s_Press) , New York. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-312-32310-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-312-32310-7) . Safer, Morley (/wiki/Morley_Safer) (17 May 2009). "Anna Wintour, Behind the Shades" (http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/05/14/60minutes/main5013905.shtml) . 60 Minutes (/wiki/60_Minutes) . CBS News (/wiki/CBS_News) . Retrieved 26 August 2009 . Weisberger, Lauren (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) (2003). The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) . Broadway Books (/wiki/Broadway_Books) , New York. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7679-1476-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7679-1476-7) . External links [ edit ] Wikiquote has quotations related to Anna Wintour (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Anna_Wintour) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Anna Wintour (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Anna_Wintour) . 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Italian luxury fashion house in Milan For other uses, see Versace (disambiguation) (/wiki/Versace_(disambiguation)) . This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Versace&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( December 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Gianni Versace S.r.l. Versace store in Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) Company type Subsidiary ( S.r.l. (/wiki/Societ%C3%A0_a_responsabilit%C3%A0_limitata) ) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded 1978 ; 46 years ago ( 1978 ) , as Gianni Versace Donna Founder Gianni Maria Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace) Headquarters Piazza Luigi Einaudi, 4 20124 Milan (/wiki/Milan) Italy 45°28′59″N 9°11′42″E / 45.48306°N 9.19502°E / 45.48306; 9.19502 Key people Santo Versace (/wiki/Santo_Versace) (chairman, president) [1] (#cite_note-Bloomberg_accessdate=20_March_2015-1) Emmanuel Gintzburger (director, CEO) [2] (#cite_note-2) Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) ( artistic director (/wiki/Artistic_director) ) Products Ready-to-wear haute couture leather accessories footwear Revenue €1.7 billion (2017) [3] (#cite_note-WSJ-3) €635 million (2013) [3] (#cite_note-WSJ-3) Number of employees 1500 Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Capri Holdings (/wiki/Capri_Holdings) Website versace.com (https://www.versace.com/) Gianni Versace S.r.l. ( Italian pronunciation: [ˈdʒanni (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) verˈsaːtʃe] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ), usually referred to as Versace ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) v ər ˈ s ɑː tʃ eɪ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) vər- SAH -chay ), [a] (#cite_note-7) is an Italian luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion company founded by Gianni Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace) in 1978. [7] (#cite_note-:2-8) The company produces Italian-made ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) and accessories, as well as haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) under its Atelier Versace brand [8] (#cite_note-9) and licenses its name and branding to Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) for eyewear. [9] (#cite_note-10) Gianni Versace being a native of Calabria (/wiki/Calabria) , in the ancient Magna Grecia (/wiki/Magna_Grecia) (Greater Greece), the company logo is inspired by Medusa (/wiki/Medusa) , a figure from Greek mythology. [10] (#cite_note-11) The Brand was founded in 1978 (/wiki/1978) by Gianni Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace) and run after his death by his family: his brother Santo Versace (/wiki/Santo_Versace) and sister Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) while Donatella's daughter, Allegra Versace Beck (/wiki/Allegra_Versace) , became the controlling shareholder having inherited her uncle Gianni's share. In September 2018, the company was sold to the Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) group Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) Limited and in January 2019, Gianni Versace S.r.l. became part of the Capri Holdings Limited (/wiki/Capri_Holdings) group for $2.12 billion, creating a new luxury group together with Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) and Jimmy Choo (/wiki/Jimmy_Choo) , keeping Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) as head of Creative Design (/wiki/Creative_Director) . [11] (#cite_note-12) History and operations [ edit ] A dress by Gianni Versace Gianni Versace, the beginning [ edit ] Gianni Versace worked from an early age alongside his mother in the family tailor's shop until February 5, 1972. On that day, he left Reggio Calabria (/wiki/Reggio_Calabria) to move to Milan (/wiki/Milan) , where he initially designed collections for Florentine Flowers. Later that year, he collaborated with De Parisini di Santa Margherita, and his name began to circulate in fashion circles. In 1976 (/wiki/1976) , Gianni's older brother, Santo Versace (/wiki/Santo_Versace) , who had an economics and business degree and an office in Messina (/wiki/Messina) , joined him in Milan (/wiki/Milan) . Together with Claudio Luti, they decided to open a company bearing Gianni's name. By March 1978, the first Versace collection was showcased at La Permanente in Milan, garnering great appreciation. Gianni Versace, 1978–1997 [ edit ] In 1972, Gianni Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace) designed his first collections for Callaghan, Genny, and Complice. In 1978, the company launched under the name "Gianni Versace Donna” [12] (#cite_note-:0-13) and opened its first boutique in Milan's Via della Spiga (/wiki/Via_della_Spiga) . [13] (#cite_note-14) [14] (#cite_note-15) Gianni independently controlled much of the brand, from designing to retailing. [7] (#cite_note-:2-8) In 1981, the House of Versace released their first-ever fragrance, Gianni Versace for Women. In 1982, the company expanded its offerings to include accessories, jewelry, home furnishings, and china. [15] (#cite_note-:1-16) In 1993, Donatella Versace added the Young Versace and Versus lines, [12] (#cite_note-:0-13) and from 1994 the company began referring to her as co-designer for Gianni Versace. [16] (#cite_note-17) Also in 1994, the brand gained international coverage from the black Versace dress of Elizabeth Hurley (/wiki/Black_Versace_dress_of_Elizabeth_Hurley) , referred in the media as "that dress". [17] (#cite_note-:3-18) [18] (#cite_note-Gundle2008-19) [19] (#cite_note-telegraph1-20) Versace has designed for various music artists, including stage and album cover costumes for Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) in 1992 and outfits for Michael Jackson (/wiki/Michael_Jackson) . Versace also designed clothing for the Princess of Wales (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) and Princess Caroline of Monaco (/wiki/Princess_Caroline_of_Monaco) . [15] (#cite_note-:1-16) Donatella Versace, 1997–present [ edit ] After the murder of Gianni Versace in 1997, his sister Donatella, formerly vice-president, took over as creative director, and his older brother Santo Versace (/wiki/Santo_Versace) became CEO. [20] (#cite_note-21) Donatella's daughter Allegra Versace (/wiki/Allegra_Versace) was left a 50 percent stake in the company, which she assumed control of on her eighteenth birthday. [21] (#cite_note-nytimes-22) [22] (#cite_note-23) [23] (#cite_note-24) In 2000, the green Versace dress (/wiki/Green_Versace_dress_of_Jennifer_Lopez) worn by Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) at the Grammy Awards (/wiki/42nd_Annual_Grammy_Awards) gained extensive media attention. The dress was voted the fifth most iconic dress of all time and Elizabeth Hurley's black Versace dress (/wiki/Black_Versace_dress_of_Elizabeth_Hurley) was voted most iconic dress of all time, according to a 2008 Daily Telegraph (/wiki/Daily_Telegraph) poll. [19] (#cite_note-telegraph1-20) In 2000, Versace began its effort to take control of all aspects of producing and selling its merchandise. [24] (#cite_note-25) With the company's profits in decline in the early 2000s, [21] (#cite_note-nytimes-22) [25] (#cite_note-26) Fabio Massimo Cacciatori (/wiki/Fabio_Massimo_Cacciatori) was hired as interim CEO to reorganise and restructure Versace Group in 2003. [26] (#cite_note-designtaxi-27) Cacciatori resigned in December 2003 due to "disputes with the Versace family". [26] (#cite_note-designtaxi-27) In 2004, Giancarlo di Risio from IT Holding became CEO, until he resigned in 2009 due to disagreements with Donatella. [27] (#cite_note-28) [28] (#cite_note-29) [29] (#cite_note-30) In May 2016, the Versace Group appointed Jonathan Akeroyd as CEO and board member. [30] (#cite_note-31) In February 2014, The Blackstone Group (/wiki/The_Blackstone_Group) purchased a 20 percent stake in Versace for € (/wiki/Euro) 210 million . [31] (#cite_note-32) [32] (#cite_note-wwdBlackstone-33) [33] (#cite_note-34) In September 2018, Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) offered to buy Versace for two billion euros. [34] (#cite_note-35) Versace announced all Blackstone and Versace family shares were sold to Michael Kors Limited. [35] (#cite_note-versace.com-36) The acquisition was completed in December 2018, with Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) remaining head of creative design. [36] (#cite_note-37) In January 2019, Gianni Versace S.r.l. joined Capri Holdings (/wiki/Capri_Holdings) , forming a new global fashion luxury group alongside Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo (/wiki/Jimmy_Choo_(fashion_house)) . [35] (#cite_note-versace.com-36) [37] (#cite_note-38) In 2018, Versace stopped using fur in its products and in 2020 announced it would stop using kangaroo leather. [38] (#cite_note-39) In October 2018, Versace announced its first Pre-Fall season show in New York, scheduled on Gianni Versace's 2 December birthdate. [39] (#cite_note-40) In 2021, Versace opened its first SoHo, New York (/wiki/SoHo,_Manhattan) boutique. [40] (#cite_note-41) Brands [ edit ] Atelier Versace [ edit ] In 2004, Versace – which as an Italian house is a correspondent member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture (/wiki/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_de_la_Haute_Couture_et_de_la_Mode) – [41] (#cite_note-wmagazine.com-42) decided to pull couture off the runway for the first time and, for several years, invited only editors to see the clothes on racks. In 2012, Versace returned to the couture schedule, [42] (#cite_note-43) only to halt its couture shows again from 2017. [41] (#cite_note-wmagazine.com-42) [43] (#cite_note-44) Versace Classic V2 [ edit ] From 1990, Versace held a majority stake in VeZe, a joint venture company with Ermenegildo Zegna (/wiki/Ermenegildo_Zegna_Group) . From 1996, VeZe manufactured the Versace Classic V2 men’s and women’s wear diffusion lines (/wiki/Diffusion_line) . [44] (#cite_note-45) In 2004, the company decided to cancel the Versace Classic women’s collection and replace the men’s line with a higher-positioned brand known as Versace Collezioni. [45] (#cite_note-Versace_Signs_Watch_Deal_With_Timex-46) VJC Versace [ edit ] In 2009, Versace entered into a licensing agreement with Gruppo Facchini for the young line VJC Versace starting with the spring/summer 2010 season. Under the agreement, Gruppo Facchini manufactured and distributed the brand’s apparel and accessories collections for men and women. [46] (#cite_note-47) Collaborations [ edit ] In 2006, Gianni Versace S.r.l. collaborated with Lamborghini (/wiki/Automobili_Lamborghini_S.p.A) to produce the Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 Versace. The car included a Versace-designed white satin interior with Versace's logo embroidered into the seats. The car was available in black or white and came with a luggage set, driving shoes, and driving gloves. Only ten units were produced. [47] (#cite_note-48) The Versace boutique in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy Ashtray (22 cm × 22 cm) designed by Versace and produced by German porcelain company Rosenthal (/wiki/Rosenthal_(company)) In 2008, Versace collaborated with AgustaWestland (/wiki/AgustaWestland) to create the AgustaWestland AW109 Grand Versace VIP luxury helicopter, including a Versace leather interior and Versace-designed exterior. [48] (#cite_note-49) [49] (#cite_note-50) In 2009, Versace and H&M (/wiki/H%26M) released a new line for H&M's stores, including men's and women's clothing and home items, such as pillows and blankets. [50] (#cite_note-51) In 2015, Versace collaborated with dancer Lil Buck (/wiki/Lil_Buck) to release a line of sneakers. [51] (#cite_note-52) In 2015, Donatella Versace was featured in Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) 's Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) campaign. [52] (#cite_note-53) In 2018, Ronnie Fieg (/wiki/Ronnie_Fieg) and Donatella Versace debuted their Kith (/wiki/Kith_(brand)) x Versace collection, featuring a modified medusa logo with "KITH" written over its eyes. [53] (#cite_note-54) In 2019, Versace collaborated with Turkish Airlines (/wiki/Turkish_Airlines) to provide amenity kits to business class passengers on long-haul flights. The kits came in separately styled bags for men and women and featured the Versace Eros line of products for men and Versace Eros pour Femme products for women. [54] (#cite_note-55) Versace Men's Fall 2019 collection featured several items with the logo of Ford Motor Company (/wiki/Ford_Motor_Company) . According to the fashion house, the two companies joined forces to channel "the excitement of buying your first car." [55] (#cite_note-56) In September 2021, Versace presented a joint fashion show with Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) , titled "The Swap", [56] (#cite_note-57) consisting of two collections: Fendi's vision for Versace and Versace's vision for Fendi. [57] (#cite_note-58) This marked the first time two artistic directors of brands in different fashion groups designed collections for each other. [58] (#cite_note-59) In 2021, Versace collaborated with Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) to celebrate Born This Way (/wiki/Born_This_Way_(album)) 's tenth anniversary by creating a capsule collection, with proceeds benefiting the Born This Way Foundation (/wiki/Born_This_Way_Foundation) . [59] (#cite_note-60) In 2023, Versace and Dua Lipa (/wiki/Dua_Lipa) collaborated to produce a women's collection called 'La Vacanza' which includes beachwear-inspired designs. [60] (#cite_note-61) [61] (#cite_note-62) It was planned to be unveiled and presented at the Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/Cannes_Film_Festival) on 23 May 2023 and to be available for delivery immediately after the festival. [62] (#cite_note-63) 647 Fifth Avenue (/wiki/647_Fifth_Avenue) location, New York City, 2013 Runway shows [ edit ] Donatella Versace enlisted music from South African gqom (/wiki/Gqom) duo, FAKA's " Amaqhawe " extended play (/wiki/Extended_play) as the runway soundtrack for the Versace Men's Spring-Summer 2019 , collection. [63] (#cite_note-64) Testimonials [ edit ] Celebrity endorsements [ edit ] Versace has always counted important public figures and celebrities among its clients. Between 1980 and 1983, Loretta Goggi (/wiki/Loretta_Goggi) was the first Italian artist to flaunt outfits signed by Gianni Versace, which she wore on many public and television occasions. [64] (#cite_note-65) Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) , who has a strong connection to the Versace family, has consistently worn Versace jewelry, just as Lady Diana (/wiki/Lady_Diana) often wore the designer's clothing. Lady Diana shared a close friendship with Gianni Versace and relied on him for various events. [65] (#cite_note-66) Other celebrities who have worn Versace at public events include Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , Cindy Crawford (/wiki/Cindy_Crawford) (who famously wore the red dress (/w/index.php?title=Cindy_Crawford%27s_red_Versace_dress&action=edit&redlink=1) in 1991), Elizabeth Hurley (/wiki/Elizabeth_Hurley) (who wore the famous Safety Pin Dress (/wiki/Elizabeth_Hurley%27s_black_Versace_dress) in 1994), and Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) (who wore the iconic Jungle Dress (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez%27s_green_Versace_dress) in 2000) and often chooses the fashion house for her social engagements. [66] (#cite_note-67) In July 2011, Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) exclusively wore vintage outfits, the latest collection's garments, and accessories from the brand for an entire month. She also donned a Versace ensemble in the music video for "The Edge of Glory". [67] (#cite_note-68) [68] (#cite_note-MTV_Italia-69) In 2020, the singer Elodie (/wiki/Elodie) showcased the Versace brand at the 2020 Sanremo Music Festival, wearing it on the red carpet and for all four of her performances. She also wore Versace on the red carpet of the Venice Film Festival. [69] (#cite_note-70) [70] (#cite_note-71) [71] (#cite_note-72) She continued to wear Versace and was invited to the Versace FW2020 event. Brand ambassadors [ edit ] Versace's brand ambassadors have included Hyunjin (/wiki/Stray_Kids) (since 2023) [72] (#cite_note-73) [73] (#cite_note-74) [74] (#cite_note-75) Zhao Lusi (/wiki/Zhao_Lusi) (since 2023), [75] (#cite_note-76) Ningning (/wiki/Aespa) (since 2024), [76] (#cite_note-77) [77] (#cite_note-78) Cillian Murphy (/wiki/Cillian_Murphy) (2024), [78] (#cite_note-79) [79] (#cite_note-80) [80] (#cite_note-81) Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) , [81] (#cite_note-82) Cai Xukun (/wiki/Cai_Xukun) (2024), [82] (#cite_note-83) Rosy Zhao (2023). [83] (#cite_note-84) Advertising campaigns [ edit ] Notable figures who have lent their image to Versace's advertising campaigns include Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) (in 1995 and 2005), [84] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-85) Ashton Kutcher (/wiki/Ashton_Kutcher) , Kevin Richardson (/wiki/Kevin_Richardson_(musician)) , Demi Moore (/wiki/Demi_Moore) , Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) , Christina Aguilera (/wiki/Christina_Aguilera) , Patrick Dempsey (/wiki/Patrick_Dempsey) , Jonathan Rhys Meyers (/wiki/Jonathan_Rhys_Meyers) , the musical group The Corrs (/wiki/The_Corrs) , Halle Berry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) , Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) (in 2014) [68] (#cite_note-MTV_Italia-69) [85] (#cite_note-86) , and Channing Tatum (/wiki/Channing_Tatum) (in 2024). [86] (#cite_note-87) [87] (#cite_note-88) The has been working with several high-profile photographers for its advertisement campaigns, including Richard Avedon (/wiki/Richard_Avedon) , [88] (#cite_note-89) Steven Meisel (/wiki/Steven_Meisel) (1995), [84] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-85) Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (/wiki/Mert_and_Marcus) (2011, [89] (#cite_note-90) 2014) [84] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-85) and Bruce Weber (/wiki/Bruce_Weber_(photographer)) (2016). [90] (#cite_note-91) Runway shows [ edit ] Among the models (/wiki/Model_(profession)) who have walked the runway for Versace are Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) , Angela Lindvall (/wiki/Angela_Lindvall) , Daria Werbowy (/wiki/Daria_Werbowy) , Miriam Escott IV, Christy Turlington (/wiki/Christy_Turlington) , Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) , Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) , Tuki Brando, Graham Love, and Joel West (/wiki/Joel_West) . Other activities [ edit ] Interior design [ edit ] Versace was one of the first fashion houses to launch home interiors in 1992, first focused on textiles and later porcelain tableware collections. [91] (#cite_note-wwd.com-92) After having previously manufactured internally, Versace entered into an licensing agreement in 2020 with Lifestyle Design Group, the Italian home design division of Haworth Group (/wiki/Haworth_(company)) , to produce and distribute the Versace Home furniture. [91] (#cite_note-wwd.com-92) Palazzo Versace [ edit ] Soheil Abedian, of Sunland Group (/wiki/Sunland_Group) , approached Versace in 1997, proposing a luxury hotel built for the Versace brand. The first Palazzo Versace (/wiki/Palazzo_Versace_Australia) opened on Australia's Gold Coast (/wiki/Gold_Coast,_Queensland) on 15 September 2000. [92] (#cite_note-93) [93] (#cite_note-94) The hotel was sold to a Chinese consortium in December 2012. [94] (#cite_note-95) [95] (#cite_note-96) The second Palazzo, the Palazzo Versace Dubai (/wiki/Palazzo_Versace_Dubai) , was completed in December 2015 and is located on the foreshore of Dubai Creek. [96] (#cite_note-97) A third Palazzo, the Palazzo Versace Macau (/wiki/Macau) , is under construction as part of a partnership with Macau's largest casino operator SJM Holdings (/wiki/Sociedade_de_Turismo_e_Divers%C3%B5es_de_Macau) . [97] (#cite_note-98) [98] (#cite_note-99) [99] (#cite_note-100) The Palazzo Versace hotels are the world's first fashion-branded hotels. [100] (#cite_note-101) Real estate [ edit ] In 2015, Versace partnered with Mind Group. The companies designed luxury residential towers in China called the Versace Residencies. The goal of the creators was to combine Versace's luxury home elements with elements of traditional Chinese culture. [101] (#cite_note-102) Also in 2015, Versace partnered with the ABIL Group in India to develop another luxury residential project, located in South Mumbai. [102] (#cite_note-103) Watches and jewelry [ edit ] In 2004, Versace sold its Swiss watch subsidiary Versace SA for an undisclosed price to Timex (/wiki/Timex_Group_USA) . The subsidiary was renamed Vertime SA and initially held an eight-year license to produce Versace-brand watches, jewelry and writing instruments. [45] (#cite_note-Versace_Signs_Watch_Deal_With_Timex-46) Sunglasses [ edit ] Since 2003, Versace has been licensing the development, production and worldwide distribution of sunglasses and prescription frames under its Versace brand to Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) . [103] (#cite_note-104) Operations [ edit ] As of 2016 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Versace&action=edit) , more than 1500 boutiques operate worldwide; the first boutique outside of Italy opened in Glasgow (/wiki/Glasgow) , Scotland, in 1991. [104] (#cite_note-105) Controversy [ edit ] In August 2019, Versace produced a range of tops suggesting Hong Kong and Macau (/wiki/Macau) were separate countries. Versace apologized, saying it made a mistake in the design and would destroy the offending clothing. [105] (#cite_note-106) In response to the controversy, Yang Mi (/wiki/Yang_Mi) ended her relationship as brand ambassador for Versace. [106] (#cite_note-107) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-7) According to a January 2018 Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) interview with Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) , Versace is correctly pronounced / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) v ər ˈ s ɑː tʃ eɪ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) vər- SAH -chay in English as opposed to the popular pronunciation of / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) v ər ˈ s ɑː tʃ i / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) vər- SAH -chee . [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Bloomberg_accessdate=20_March_2015_1-0) "Bloomberg" (https://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/people.asp?privcapId=5704119) . Bloomberg News (/wiki/Bloomberg_News) . Retrieved 20 March 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Emmanuel Gintzburger, Capri Holdings Ltd: Profile and Biography" (https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/person/19751309) . Bloomberg.com . Retrieved 19 November 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mesco, Manuela (25 April 2016). "Gianni Versace profit rose 17% in 2015, lifted by soaring sales" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-versace-seoul-idUSKCN0XI1IS) . Il Corriere della Sera . Retrieved 25 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Vogue (31 January 2018), 73 Questions With Donatella Versace | Vogue , archived (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211031/IkV5VpEROW0) from the original on 31 October 2021 , retrieved 2 March 2018 ^ (#cite_ref-5) "You've probably been pronouncing 'Versace' wrong, according to Donatella" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a16023857/youve-probably-been-pronouncing-versace-wrong-according-to-donatella/) . Harper's Bazaar . 2 February 2018 . Retrieved 2 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Bruno Mars (13 August 2017), Bruno Mars – Versace On The Floor [Official Video] , archived (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211031/-FyjEnoIgTM) from the original on 31 October 2021 , retrieved 2 March 2018 ^ Jump up to: a b Davis, Daniel (2011). Versace . New York: Infobase Learning. p. 29. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781604139808 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Atelier Versace Collection | US Online Store" (https://www.versace.com/us/en-us/atelier-versace/) . Versace . Retrieved 20 July 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Zargani, Luisa (10 April 2020). "Versace, Luxottica Renew Eyewear License" (https://wwd.com/accessories-news/eyewear/versace-luxottica-renew-eyewear-license-1203558993/) . Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved 3 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Versace Logo And Its Golden History: Everything You Need To Know | LOGO.com" (https://logo.com/blog/the-backstory-and-history-behind-the-versace-logo) . logo.com . Retrieved 2 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Phelps, Nicole (25 November 2018). "Michael Kors Acquires Versace for More Than $2.12 Billion" (https://www.vogue.com/article/michael-kors-acquires-versace) . Vogue . ^ Jump up to: a b "Brand History" (https://www.versace.com/us/en-us/about-us/company-profile.html) . Versace . 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Lady Gaga wears Liz Hurley's Versace safety pin gown" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9583568/Not-That-dress-again-Lady-Gaga-wears-Liz-Hurleys-Versace-safety-pin-gown.html) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . Retrieved 14 August 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Gundle2008_19-0) Gundle, Stephen (2008). Glamour: a history . Oxford University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-921098-5 . Retrieved 1 May 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Khan, Urmee (9 October 2008). "Liz Hurley 'safety pin' dress voted the greatest dress" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/Liz-Hurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220111/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/Liz-Hurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html) from the original on 11 January 2022 . 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The New York Times . 12 August 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-107) He, Huifeng (11 August 2019). "Versace in trouble for tops that imply Hong Kong is not part of China" (https://www.scmp.com/economy/china-economy/article/3022328/versace-trouble-tops-imply-hong-kong-not-part-china) . South China Morning Post . Retrieved 11 August 2019 . 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Technique of knotting cords or thick yarns to make lace or fringe Detail of Cavandoli macramé Macramé is a form of textile (/wiki/Textile) produced using knotting (/wiki/Knot) (rather than weaving (/wiki/Weaving) or knitting (/wiki/Knitting) ) techniques. The primary knots of macramé are the square (or reef knot (/wiki/Reef_knot) ) and forms of "hitching": various combinations of half hitches (/wiki/Half_hitch) . It was long crafted by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms, to cover anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships. Cavandoli macramé is one variety that is used to form geometric and free-form patterns like weaving. The Cavandoli style is done mainly in a single knot, the double half-hitch knot. Reverse half hitches are sometimes used to maintain balance when working left and right halves of a balanced piece. Leather or fabric belts are another accessory often created via macramé techniques. Most friendship bracelets (/wiki/Friendship_bracelet) exchanged among schoolchildren and teens are created using this method. Vendors at theme parks, malls, seasonal fairs and other public places may sell macramé jewelry (/wiki/Jewellery) or decoration as well. History [ edit ] Macramé knot: clove hitch with loops up One of the earliest recorded uses of macramé-style knots as decoration appeared in the carvings of the Babylonians (/wiki/Babylon) and Assyrians (/wiki/Assyria) . Fringe-like plaiting and braiding adorned the costumes (/wiki/Costume) of the time and were captured in their stone statuary. [1] (#cite_note-harvey-1) Arab (/wiki/Arab) weavers [ when? ] called this kind of decorated cloth embroidery migramah (مِقْرَمة). It involved knotting excess thread along the edges of hand-loomed fabrics such as towels (/wiki/Towel) , shawls (/wiki/Shawl) , and veils (/wiki/Veil) into decorative fringes (/wiki/Fringe_(trim)) . The word macramé could be derived from the Andalusian-Arabic version makramīya ( مكرمية ), believed to mean "striped towel", "ornamental fringe" or "embroidered veil". [1] (#cite_note-harvey-1) Another school of thought indicates that it came to Europe from Arabic but via the Turkish version makrama , "napkin" or "towel". [2] (#cite_note-2) The decorative fringes also helped to keep flies (/wiki/Fly) off camels (/wiki/Camel) and horses (/wiki/Horse) in northern Africa (/wiki/North_Africa) . The Moorish conquest (/wiki/Moorish_conquest) took the craft to Spain (/wiki/Spain) , then Italy (/wiki/Italy) , especially in the region of Liguria (/wiki/Liguria) , then it spread through Europe. In England (/wiki/England) , it was introduced at the court of Mary II (/wiki/Mary_II_of_England) in the late 17th century. Queen Mary taught it to her ladies-in-waiting (/wiki/Lady-in-waiting) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Decorative macramé ship Macramé was most popular in the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) . It adorned most homes in items such as tablecloths (/wiki/Tablecloth) , bedspreads (/wiki/Bedding) and curtains (/wiki/Curtain) . The popular Sylvia's Book of Macramé Lace (1882) showed how "to work rich trimmings for black and coloured costumes, both for home wear, garden parties, seaside ramblings, and balls—fairylike adornments for household and underlinens ...". [4] (#cite_note-Guide-4) It was a specialty in Genoa, and was popular in the 19th century. There, "Its roots were in a 16th-century technique of knotting lace known as punto a groppo" [5] (#cite_note-5) Sailors made macramé objects while not busy at sea, and sold or bartered them when they landed. Nineteenth-century British and American sailors made hammocks (/wiki/Hammock) , bell fringes (/w/index.php?title=Bell_fringe&action=edit&redlink=1) , and belts (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) from macramé. They called the process "square knotting" after the knot they used most often. Sailors also called macramé "McNamara's lace". [4] (#cite_note-Guide-4) Macramé's popularity faded, but resurged in the 1970s for making wall hangings, clothing accessories, small jean shorts, bedspreads, tablecloths (/wiki/Tablecloth) , draperies (/wiki/Draperies) , plant hangers and other furnishings. Macramé jewelry became popular in America. Using mainly square knots and granny knots (/wiki/Granny_knot) , this jewelry often features handmade glass beads and natural elements such as bone and shell. Necklaces, anklets and bracelets have become popular forms of macramé jewelry. By the early 1980s, macramé again began to fall out of fashion, [6] (#cite_note-6) only to be revived by millennials (/wiki/Millennials) . [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) Materials and process [ edit ] Production of a large piece of macramé Decorative macramé from cotton and silk Materials used in macramé include cords made of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) twine, linen (/wiki/Linen) , hemp (/wiki/Hemp) , jute (/wiki/Jute) , leather (/wiki/Leather) or yarn (/wiki/Yarn) . Cords are identified by construction, such as a 3-ply cord, made of three lengths of fibre twisted together. [4] (#cite_note-Guide-4) Jewelry is often made in combination of both the knots and various beads (/wiki/Beads) (of glass, wood, and so on), pendants or shells. Sometimes 'found' focal points are used for necklaces, such as rings or gemstones (/wiki/Gemstones) , either wire-wrapped to allow for securing or captured in a net-like array of intertwining overhand knots (/wiki/Overhand_knot) . A knotting board is often used to mount the cords for macramé work. Cords may be held in place using a C-clamp (/wiki/C-clamp) , straight pins, T-pins, U-pins, or upholstery pins. [4] (#cite_note-Guide-4) For larger decorative pieces, such as wall hangings or window coverings (/wiki/Window_covering) , a work of macramé might be started out on a wooden or metal dowel, allowing for a spread of dozens of cords that are easy to manipulate. For smaller projects, push-pin boards are available specifically for macramé, although a simple corkboard works adequately. Many craft stores offer beginners' kits, work boards, beads and materials ranging in price for the casual hobbyist or ambitious crafter. [1] (#cite_note-harvey-1) See also [ edit ] Chinese knotting (/wiki/Chinese_knotting) List of hitch knots (/wiki/List_of_hitch_knots) Sennit (/wiki/Sennit) Crochet (/wiki/Crochet) Knitting (/wiki/Knitting) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Harvey, Virginia (1967). Macrame : the art of creative knotting . Van Nostrand Reinhold. pp. 9–30. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-442-23191-1 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 948758577 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/948758577) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Turner, John C. (30 May 1996). History and science of knots . World Scientific Publishing Company. pp. 336–337. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 981-02-2469-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Leslie, Catherine A. (30 April 2007). Needlework through history: an encyclopedia . Greenwood Press. pp. 117–118. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-33548-8 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Virginia Colton, ed. (1979). Complete Guide to Needlework . Montreal: The Reader's Digest Association Canada. pp. 445 (https://archive.org/details/readersdigestcom00colt/page/445) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-88850-085-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "macramé | lace | Britannica" (https://www.britannica.com/art/macrame) . www.britannica.com . Retrieved 2022-01-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Chace, Susan; Pennant, Lilla; Warde, John Maury; Wright, David (1981), Crafts & Hobbies , Reader's Digest (/wiki/Reader%27s_Digest) , p. 28, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-89577-063-6 , retrieved 2009-09-20 ^ (#cite_ref-7) Buck, Stephanie (Sep 19, 2017). "Macramé is the knotty trend millennials Instagrammed back from the dead" (https://timeline.com/macrame-knot-history-dc71dbb8e74d) . Timeline. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Fox-Leonard, Boudicca (18 February 2018). "Macramé: it's knot like the Seventies" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/life/macrame-knot-like-seventies/) . The Telegraph. Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/life/macrame-knot-like-seventies/) from the original on 2022-01-12. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Macramé . Sylvia's Book of Macramé Lace (https://archive.org/details/sylviasbookofmac00lond/page/n9/mode/2up) by Sylvia (pseudonym), 1882. "Macrame knots" (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/1f/43/8e/1f438ef26ab258d7049df8b89fb2c4a1.jpg) . Retrieved April 14, 2017 . Illustrations of various knots. v t e Knots (/wiki/Knot) Bight (/wiki/Bight_(knot)) Loop (/wiki/Loop_(knot)) Turn (/wiki/Turn_(knot)) List of knots (/wiki/List_of_knots) List of knot terminology (/wiki/List_of_knot_terminology) By type Bends (/wiki/List_of_bend_knots) Adjustable (/wiki/Adjustable_bend) Albright special (/wiki/Albright_special) Ashley's (/wiki/Ashley%27s_bend) Alpine butterfly (/wiki/Butterfly_bend) Basket weave (/wiki/Basket_weave_knot) Beer (/wiki/Beer_knot) Blood (/wiki/Blood_knot) Carrick (/wiki/Carrick_bend) Double fisherman's (/wiki/Double_fisherman%27s_knot) Fisherman's (/wiki/Fisherman%27s_knot) Flemish (/wiki/Flemish_bend) Grief (/wiki/Grief_knot) Halyard (/wiki/Halyard_bend) Harness (/wiki/Harness_bend) Heaving line (/wiki/Heaving_line_bend) Hunter's (/wiki/Hunter%27s_bend) Nail (/wiki/Nail_knot) One-sided overhand (/wiki/One-sided_overhand_bend) Racking (/wiki/Racking_bend) Sheet (/wiki/Sheet_bend) Shoelace (/wiki/Shoelace_knot) Shroud (/wiki/Shroud_knot) Simple Simon under (/wiki/Simple_Simon_under) Single carrick (/wiki/Single_carrick_bend) Surgeon's (/wiki/Surgeon%27s_knot) Surgeon's loop (/wiki/Surgeon%27s_loop) Triple fisherman's (/wiki/Triple_fisherman%27s_knot) True lover's (/wiki/True_lover%27s_knot) Water (/wiki/Water_knot) Zeppelin (/wiki/Zeppelin_bend) Binding (/wiki/List_of_binding_knots) Boa (/wiki/Boa_knot) Bottle sling (/wiki/Bottle_sling) Constrictor (/wiki/Constrictor_knot) Corned beef (/wiki/Corned_beef_knot) Granny (/wiki/Granny_knot) Ground-line hitch (/wiki/Ground-line_hitch) Jamming (/wiki/Jamming_knot) Miller's (/wiki/Miller%27s_knot) Packer's (/wiki/Packer%27s_knot) Reef (/wiki/Reef_knot) Strangle (/wiki/Strangle_knot) Thief (/wiki/Thief_knot) Transom (/wiki/Transom_knot) Climbing (/wiki/List_of_climbing_knots) Autoblock (/wiki/Autoblock) Bachmann (/wiki/Bachmann_knot) Beer (/wiki/Beer_knot) Bowline on a bight (/wiki/Bowline_on_a_bight) Alpine butterfly (/wiki/Butterfly_loop) Directional figure eight (/wiki/Directional_figure_eight) Double bowline (/wiki/Double_bowline) Farmer's loop (/wiki/Farmer%27s_loop) Figure-eight (/wiki/Figure-eight_knot) Figure-eight loop (/wiki/Figure-eight_loop) Figure-of-nine loop (/wiki/Figure-of-nine_loop) Friction hitch (/wiki/List_of_friction_hitch_knots) Klemheist (/wiki/Klemheist_knot) Munter hitch (/wiki/Munter_hitch) Noose (/wiki/Noose) Overhand loop (/wiki/Overhand_loop) Prusik (/wiki/Prusik_knot) Trident loop (/wiki/Trident_loop) Yosemite bowline (/wiki/Yosemite_bowline) Coils (/wiki/Coiling) & shanks Chain sinnet (/wiki/Chain_sinnet) Sheepshank (/wiki/Sheepshank) Decorative (/wiki/List_of_decorative_knots) Carrick mat (/wiki/Carrick_mat) Chinese button (/wiki/Chinese_button_knot) Celtic button (/wiki/Celtic_button_knot) Diamond (/wiki/Diamond_knot) Fiador (/wiki/Fiador_knot) Friendship (/wiki/Friendship_knot) Ghiordes & Senneh (/wiki/Knotted-pile_carpet) Matthew Walker (/wiki/Matthew_Walker_knot) Turk's head (/wiki/Turk%27s_head_knot) Wall and crown (/wiki/Wall_and_crown_knot) (triple crown knot) Fishing (/wiki/Angling) (angling) (/wiki/Angling) Angler's loop (/wiki/Angler%27s_loop) Arbor (/wiki/Arbor_knot) Bimini twist (/wiki/Bimini_twist) Blood (/wiki/Blood_knot) Fisherman's (/wiki/Fisherman%27s_knot) Improved clinch (/wiki/Improved_clinch_knot) Knotless (/wiki/Knotless_knot) Nail (/wiki/Nail_knot) Palomar (/wiki/Palomar_knot) Snell (/wiki/Snell_knot) Trilene (/wiki/Trilene_knot) Triple fisherman's (/wiki/Triple_fisherman%27s_knot) Turle (/wiki/Turle_knot) Uni (/wiki/Uni_knot) Hitches (/wiki/List_of_hitch_knots) Adjustable grip (/wiki/Adjustable_grip_hitch) Anchor bend (/wiki/Anchor_bend) Axle (/wiki/Axle_hitch) Bachmann (/wiki/Bachmann_knot) Bale sling (/wiki/Bale_sling_hitch) Barrel (/wiki/Barrel_hitch) Becket (/wiki/Becket_hitch) Blackwall (/wiki/Blackwall_hitch) Blake's (/wiki/Blake%27s_hitch) Boom (/wiki/Boom_hitch) Buntline (/wiki/Buntline_hitch) Cat's paw (/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_(knot)) Clove (/wiki/Clove_hitch) Cow (/wiki/Cow_hitch) Distel (/wiki/Distel_hitch) Double overhand noose (/wiki/Double_overhand_noose) Falconer's (/wiki/Falconer%27s_knot) Farrimond friction (/wiki/Farrimond_friction_hitch) Friction hitch (/wiki/List_of_friction_hitch_knots) Garda (/wiki/Garda_hitch) Ground-line (/wiki/Ground-line_hitch) Half (/wiki/Half_hitch) Halter (/wiki/Halter_hitch) Highpoint (/wiki/Highpoint_hitch) Highwayman's (/wiki/Highwayman%27s_hitch) Hitching tie (/wiki/Hitching_tie) Icicle (/wiki/Icicle_hitch) Improved clinch (/wiki/Improved_clinch_knot) Killick (/wiki/Killick_hitch) Knute (/wiki/Knute_hitch) Lobster buoy (/wiki/Lobster_buoy_hitch) Marlinespike (/wiki/Marlinespike_hitch) Munter (/wiki/Munter_hitch) Ossel (/wiki/Ossel_hitch) Pile (/wiki/Pile_hitch) Pipe (/wiki/Pipe_hitch) Sailor's (/wiki/Sailor%27s_hitch) Snuggle (/wiki/Snuggle_hitch) Swing (/wiki/Swing_hitch) Taut-line (/wiki/Taut-line_hitch) Timber (/wiki/Timber_hitch) Trucker's (/wiki/Trucker%27s_hitch) Tumble (/wiki/Tumble_hitch) Loop (/wiki/Loop_(knot)) Angler's (/wiki/Angler%27s_loop) Artillery loop (/wiki/Artillery_loop) Bale sling hitch (/wiki/Bale_sling_hitch) Bowline (/wiki/Bowline) Bumper (/wiki/Bumper_knot) Carrick bend loop (/wiki/Carrick_bend_loop) Cossack (/wiki/Cossack_knot) Cowboy bowline (/wiki/Cowboy_bowline) Diamond (/wiki/Diamond_knot) Double bowline (/wiki/Double_bowline) Dropper loop (/wiki/Dropper_loop) Eskimo bowline (/wiki/Eskimo_bowline) Fiador (/wiki/Fiador_knot) Fireman's chair (/wiki/Fireman%27s_chair_knot) Friendship knot (/wiki/Friendship_knot_loop) Halter hitch (/wiki/Halter_hitch) Handcuff (/wiki/Handcuff_knot) Honda (/wiki/Honda_knot) Jury mast (/wiki/Jury_mast_knot) Overhand (/wiki/Overhand_loop) Portuguese bowline (/wiki/Portuguese_bowline) Rigid double splayed loop in the bight (/wiki/Rigid_double_splayed_loop_in_the_bight) Slippery eight (/wiki/Slippery_eight_loop) Span (/wiki/Span_loop) Spanish bowline (/wiki/Spanish_bowline) Tom fool's (/wiki/Tom_fool%27s_knot) Trident (/wiki/Trident_loop) Triple bowline (/wiki/Triple_bowline) Water bowline (/wiki/Water_bowline) Yosemite bowline (/wiki/Yosemite_bowline) Zeppelin (/wiki/Zeppelin_loop) Running (/wiki/Slip_knot) (slip) (/wiki/Slip_knot) Hangman's (/wiki/Hangman%27s_knot) Running bowline (/wiki/Running_bowline) Running highwayman's hitch Tarbuck (/wiki/Tarbuck_knot) Splices (/wiki/Rope_splicing) & splicing Eye (/wiki/Eye_splice) Fid (/wiki/Fid) Marlinspike (/wiki/Marlinspike) Rat-tail (/wiki/Rat-tail_splice) T (/wiki/T-splice) Western Union (/wiki/Western_Union_splice) Stopper (/wiki/Stopper_knot) Ashley's stopper (/wiki/Ashley%27s_stopper_knot) Button (/wiki/Button_knot) Double overhand (/wiki/Double_overhand_knot) Monkey's fist (/wiki/Monkey%27s_fist) Overhand (/wiki/Overhand_knot) Stevedore (/wiki/Stevedore_knot) Whipping (/wiki/Whipping_knot) Common (/wiki/Common_whipping) Overhand knot with draw-loop (/wiki/Overhand_knot_with_draw-loop) Portuguese (/wiki/Portuguese_whipping) Sailmaker's (/wiki/Sailmaker%27s_whipping) West Country (/wiki/West_Country_whipping) Lists of knots Related topics Lists of knots Bends (/wiki/List_of_bend_knots) Bindings (/wiki/List_of_binding_knots) Decorative knots (/wiki/List_of_decorative_knots) Hitches (/wiki/List_of_hitch_knots) ( friction (/wiki/List_of_friction_hitch_knots) ) Mathematical (/wiki/List_of_mathematical_knots_and_links) Related topics Chinese knotting (/wiki/Chinese_knotting) Density (/wiki/Knot_density) History (/wiki/History_of_knotting) International Guild of Knot Tyers (/wiki/International_Guild_of_Knot_Tyers) Macramé Mizuhiki (/wiki/Mizuhiki) Norigae (/wiki/Norigae) Ropework (/wiki/Ropework) Lashing (/wiki/Lashing_(ropework)) Splicing (/wiki/Rope_splicing) Seizing (/wiki/Seizing) Sennit (/wiki/Sennit) Category (/wiki/Category:Knots) WikiProject (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Knots) Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Knots) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace 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Polish and American businesswoman, art collector, and philanthropist This article is written like a story . Please help rewrite this article (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Helena_Rubinstein&action=edit) to introduce an encyclopedic style (/wiki/Wikipedia:Encyclopedic_style) and a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:NPOV) . ( November 2022 ) Helena Rubinstein Born Chaja Rubinstein ( 1872-12-25 ) December 25, 1872 Kraków (/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w) , Austria-Hungary (now Poland) Died April 1, 1965 (1965-04-01) (aged 92) New York City, US Nationality Polish [1] (#cite_note-1) Other names Princess Gourielli, Madame Helena Rubinstein, Chaja Rubinstein Occupations Businesswoman philanthropist art collector cosmetician Known for Founder and eponym (/wiki/Eponym) of Helena Rubinstein Incorporated cosmetics company Spouses Edward William Titus ( m. 1908; div. 1938) Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia ( m. 1938; died 1955) Helena Rubinstein (born Chaja Rubinstein ; December 25, 1872 – April 1, 1965) [2] (#cite_note-2) was a Polish and American businesswoman, art collector, and philanthropist. A cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) entrepreneur, she was the founder and eponym (/wiki/Eponym) of Helena Rubinstein Incorporated cosmetics company, which made her one of the world's richest women. [3] (#cite_note-3) Early life [ edit ] Helena Rubinstein's birth house (green) in Kraków (/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w) 's Kazimierz (/wiki/Kazimierz) district Rubinstein was the eldest of eight daughters [4] (#cite_note-4) born to Polish Jews (/wiki/Polish_Jews) , "Augusta" Gitte (Gitel) Shaindel Rubinstein née Silberfeld and Naftoli Hertz "Horace" Rubinstein. Her father was a shopkeeper in Kraków (/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w) , Lesser Poland (/wiki/Lesser_Poland) , which was then occupied by Austria-Hungary (/wiki/Austria-Hungary) following the partitions of Poland (/wiki/Partitions_of_Poland) in the late 18th century. The existentialist (/wiki/Existentialism) philosopher Martin Buber (/wiki/Martin_Buber) was her cousin. She was also the cousin of Ruth Rappaport (/wiki/Ruth_Rappaport) 's mother. [5] (#cite_note-ushmm1-5) Move to Australia [ edit ] After refusing an arranged marriage, Rubinstein emigrated from Poland to Australia in 1896, with no money and little command of the English language. [6] (#cite_note-6) Her stylish clothes and milky complexion did not pass unnoticed among the town's ladies, however, and she soon found enthusiastic buyers for the jars of beauty cream in her luggage. She spotted a market where she began to make her own. A key ingredient of the cream, lanolin (/wiki/Lanolin) , was readily at hand. Coleraine (/wiki/Coleraine,_Victoria) , in the Western Victoria region (/wiki/Western_District_(Victoria)) , where her uncle was a shopkeeper, might have been an "awful place" [ This quote needs a citation ] but was home to some 75 million [ citation needed ] sheep that secreted abundant quantities of lanolin. These sheep were the wealth of the nation and the Western District's vast mobs of merinos (/wiki/Merino) produced the finest wool in the land. To disguise the lanolin's pungent odour, Rubinstein experimented with lavender (/wiki/Lavender) , pine (/wiki/Pine) bark, and water lilies (/wiki/Nymphaeaceae) . Rubinstein had a falling out with her uncle, but after a stint as a bush governess began waitressing at the Winter Garden tearooms in Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) . There, she found an admirer willing to stump up the funds to launch her Crème Valaze, supposedly including herbs imported "from the Carpathian Mountains (/wiki/Carpathian_Mountains) ". [ This quote needs a citation ] It cost ten pence (/wiki/Penny_(British_pre-decimal_coin)) and sold for six shillings (/wiki/Shilling_(British_coin)) (72 pence). Known to her customers only as Helena, Rubinstein could soon afford to open a salon in fashionable Collins Street (/wiki/Collins_Street,_Melbourne) , selling glamour as a science to customers whose skin was "diagnosed" and a suitable treatment "prescribed". [ This quote needs a citation ] Sydney was next, and within five years, Australian operations were profitable enough to finance a Salon de Beauté Valaze in London. As such, Rubinstein formed one of the world's first cosmetic companies. Her business enterprise proved immensely successful and later in life, she used her enormous wealth to support charitable institutions in the fields of education, art, and health. Rubinstein rapidly expanded her operation. In 1908, her sister Ceska assumed the Melbourne shop's operation, and with $100,000, Rubinstein moved to London and began what was to become an international enterprise. (Women at this time could not obtain bank loans, so the money was her own.) Marriage and children – London and Paris [ edit ] In 1908, she married the Polish-born American journalist Edward William Titus in London. They had two sons, Roy Valentine Titus (London, December 12, 1909 – New York, June 18, 1989) and Horace Titus (London, April 23, 1912 – New York, May 18, 1958). They eventually moved to Paris where she opened a salon in 1912. Her husband helped with writing the publicity (/wiki/Publicity) and set up a small publishing house, published Lady Chatterley's Lover (/wiki/Lady_Chatterley%27s_Lover) [ citation needed ] and hired Samuel Putnam (/wiki/Samuel_Putnam) to translate famous model Alice Prin (/wiki/Alice_Prin) 's (Kiki de Montparnasse) memoirs, Kiki's Memoirs (/wiki/Kiki%27s_Memoirs) . Rubinstein threw lavish dinner parties and became known for apocryphal quips, such as when an intoxicated French ambassador expressed vitriol toward Edith Sitwell (/wiki/Edith_Sitwell) and her brother Sacheverell (/wiki/Sacheverell_Sitwell) : Vos ancêtres ont brûlé Jeanne d'Arc! Rubinstein, who knew little French, asked a guest what the ambassador had said. "He said, 'Your ancestors burned Joan of Arc (/wiki/Joan_of_Arc) . ' " Rubinstein replied, "Well, someone had to do it." [7] (#cite_note-7) At another fête , Marcel Proust (/wiki/Marcel_Proust) asked her what makeup a duchess might wear. She summarily dismissed him because "he smelt of mothballs". Rubinstein recollected later, "How was I to know he was going to be famous?" [8] (#cite_note-city-journal-8) Move to the United States [ edit ] Helena Rubinstein by Paul César Helleu (/wiki/Paul_C%C3%A9sar_Helleu) (1908) Helena Rubinstein 1959 Tel Aviv Museum of Art (/wiki/Tel_Aviv_Museum_of_Art) At the outbreak of World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) , she and Titus moved to New York City, where she opened a cosmetics salon in 1915, the forerunner of a chain throughout the country. Rubinstein opened up the boundless American market, and she skilfully used it, despite serious competitors. This was the beginning of her vicious rivalry with another notable woman of the cosmetics industry, Elizabeth Arden (/wiki/Elizabeth_Arden) . Both Rubinstein and Arden, who died within 18 months of each other, were social climbers. They were both keenly aware of effective marketing and luxurious packaging, the attraction of beauticians in neat uniforms, the value of celebrity endorsements, the perceived value of overpricing (/wiki/Value-based_pricing) and the promotion of the pseudoscience (/wiki/Pseudoscience) of skincare. The rivalry with Arden lasted all her life. Rubinstein said of her rival, "With her packaging and my product, we could have ruled the world." [9] (#cite_note-Glory-9) From 1917, Rubinstein took on the manufacturing and wholesale distribution of her products. The "Day of Beauty" in the various salons became a great success. The purported portrait of Rubinstein in her advertising was of a middle-age mannequin with a Gentile (/wiki/Gentile) appearance. [ citation needed ] In 1928, she sold the American business to Lehman Brothers (/wiki/Lehman_Brothers) for $7.3 million, ($127 million in 2022). After the onset of the Great Depression (/wiki/Great_Depression) , she bought back the nearly worthless stock for less than $1 million and eventually increased the value of the company to $100 million, establishing salons and outlets in almost a dozen US cities. This saga, and Rubinstein's early business career, has been the subject of a recent Harvard Business School (/wiki/Harvard_Business_School) case. [10] (#cite_note-10) Her subsequent spa at 715 Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) included a restaurant, a gymnasium and rugs by painter Joan Miró (/wiki/Joan_Mir%C3%B3) . She commissioned artist Salvador Dalí (/wiki/Salvador_Dal%C3%AD) to design a powder compact as well a portrait of herself in 1943, titled Princess Arthchild Gourielle-Helena Rubinstein . [11] (#cite_note-11) Other artists who painted her portrait [12] (#cite_note-12) were Graham Sutherland (/wiki/Graham_Sutherland) in 1957 for the Helena Rubinstein Foundation, now in the National Portrait Gallery of Australia (/wiki/National_Portrait_Gallery_(Australia)) , [13] (#cite_note-13) Marie Laurencin (/wiki/Marie_Laurencin) in 1934 (now in the National Portrait Gallery (United States) (/wiki/National_Portrait_Gallery_(United_States)) , [14] (#cite_note-14) Raoul Dufy (/wiki/Raoul_Dufy) (1930), [15] (#cite_note-15) Roberto Montenegro (/wiki/Roberto_Montenegro) (1941). [16] (#cite_note-16) After Rubinstein's last visit to Australia, William Dobell (/wiki/William_Dobell) painted a series of eight portraits in 1957. [17] (#cite_note-ADBRubinstein-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) Divorce and remarriage [ edit ] After her divorce, in 1938 Helena readily married Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (sometimes spelled Courielli-Tchkonia; born in Georgia (/wiki/Georgia_(country)) , February 18, 1895, died in New York City, November 21, 1955), whose somewhat clouded matrilinear claim to Georgian nobility (/wiki/Georgian_nobility) stemmed from him having been born a member of the untitled noble Tchkonia family of Guria (/wiki/Guria) , enticing the ambitious young man to appropriate the genuine title of his grandmother, born Princess Gourielli (/wiki/House_of_Gurieli) . [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEFitoussi2013[httpsbooksgooglecombooksidhDZDAgAAQBAJpgPT200_200]-19) Gourielli-Tchkonia was 23 years younger than Rubinstein. Eager for a regal title, Rubinstein pursued the handsome man avidly and named a male cosmetics line after her youthful prized catch. Some have claimed that the marriage was a marketing ploy, including Rubinstein's being able to pass herself off as Helena Princess Gourielli. [20] (#cite_note-20) Rubinstein took a packed lunch to work and was frugal in many matters, but bought top-fashion clothing and valuable fine art and furniture. She founded the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion of Contemporary Art at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art (/wiki/Tel_Aviv_Museum_of_Art) and in 1957 she established the Helena Rubinstein Travelling Art Scholarship in Australia. [17] (#cite_note-ADBRubinstein-17) In 1953, she established the philanthropic Helena Rubinstein Foundation to provide funds to organizations specializing in health, medical research and rehabilitation. [21] (#cite_note-philanthropynewsdigest-21) In 1959, Rubinstein represented the US cosmetics industry at the American National Exhibition (/wiki/American_National_Exhibition) in Moscow. Called "Madame" by her employees, she eschewed idle chatter, continued to be active in the corporation throughout her life, even from her sick bed, and staffed the company with her relatives. [ citation needed ] Death and legacy [ edit ] Rubinstein died April 1, 1965, of natural causes and was buried in Mount Olivet Cemetery (/wiki/Mount_Olivet_Cemetery_(Queens)) in Queens (/wiki/Queens) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Some of her estate, including African and fine art, Lucite (/wiki/Lucite) furniture, and Victorian furniture upholstered in purple, was auctioned in 1966 at the Parke-Bernet (/wiki/Parke-Bernet) Galleries in New York City. One of Rubinstein's numerous sayings was: "There are no ugly women, only lazy ones." [23] (#cite_note-23) A scholarly study of her exclusive beauty salons and how they blurred and influenced the conceptual boundaries at the time among fashion, art galleries, the domestic interior and versions of modernism is explored by Marie J. Clifford. [24] (#cite_note-24) A feature-length documentary film (/wiki/Documentary_film) , The Powder & the Glory (2009) by Ann Carol Grossman and Arnie Reisman, details the rivalry between Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden (/wiki/Elizabeth_Arden) . [9] (#cite_note-Glory-9) In her book Ugly Beauty , Ruth Brandon (/wiki/Ruth_Brandon) described her methodology: [she was] the first self-made female millionaire, an accomplishment she owed primarily to publicity savvy. She knew how to advertise—using 'fear copy with a bit of blah-blah'— and introduced the concept of 'problem' skin types. She also pioneered the use of pseudo-science in marketing, donning a lab coat in many advertisements, despite the fact that her only training had been a two-month tour of European skin-care facilities. She knew how to manipulate consumers' status anxiety, as well: If a product faltered initially, she would hike the price to raise the perceived value. [25] (#cite_note-25) In 1973, the company Helena Rubinstein, Inc. was sold to Colgate-Palmolive (/wiki/Colgate-Palmolive) . By the 1980's the brand had faded from the US market. [26] (#cite_note-WEILJ-26) In 1984 it was acquired by L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) . [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) The L'Oreal takeover was to cause a good deal of scandal as company founder, Eugène Schueller (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Schueller) , had been an enthusiastic collaborator during the war, and in its aftermath, L'Oreal became notorious for employing ex-Nazis on the run. Jacques Corrèze (/wiki/Jacques_Corr%C3%A8ze) , who engineered the takeover, was one of these: he had been active in expropriating Jewish property in Paris. [29] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBrandon2011ch._5:_A_Takeover_and_Three_Scandals-29) The brand was re-launched in the US market in 1999 but it was unprofitable despite its having a renaissance in Asia, Europe, and South America. The US operation was closed down in 2003. [30] (#cite_note-30) Since 2011, L'Oréal has been repositioning the brand as an ultra-premium skin care franchise. As of 2023, high-end Helena Rubinstein products remain unavailable in the US but are sold in international markets. [26] (#cite_note-WEILJ-26) The L'Oréal-UNESCO Awards for Women in Science (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al-UNESCO_Awards_for_Women_in_Science) are also known as the Helena Rubinstein Women in Science Awards. The Helena Rubinstein Foundation, which had been established in 1953, operated through 2011, ultimately distributing nearly $130 million over the course of six decades, primarily to education, arts, and community-based organizations in New York City. [21] (#cite_note-philanthropynewsdigest-21) The foundation was a longtime supporter of children's programming for New York City's PBS (/wiki/PBS) affiliate WNET (/wiki/WNET) . The Manhattan Jewish Museum (/wiki/Jewish_Museum_(Manhattan)) hosted the exhibition "Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power", the first museum show devoted to Rubinstein, from October 31, 2014, until March 22, 2015. [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) Support for the arts [ edit ] A one-off Rubinstein Mural Prize was awarded in 1958 to Erica McGilchrist (/wiki/Erica_McGilchrist) for her work in the Women's College, University of Melbourne (/wiki/University_of_Melbourne) , and a Helena Rubinstein Scholarship was awarded to Frank Hodgkinson (/wiki/Frank_Hodgkinson) in 1958 and Charles Blackman (/wiki/Charles_Blackman) 1960. The Helena Rubinstein Portrait Prize (/wiki/Helena_Rubinstein_Portrait_Prize) was an annual prize of £300 for portraiture by an Australian artist, and was mostly staged at the Claude Hotchin (/wiki/Claude_Hotchin) Gallery in Western Australia. [33] (#cite_note-33) In popular culture [ edit ] Based on Woodhead's book, [34] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWoodhead2003-34) the 2016 musical War Paint (/wiki/War_Paint_(musical)) dramatizes her rivalry with competitor Elizabeth Arden (/wiki/Elizabeth_Arden) . After a run Chicago's Goodman Theatre (/wiki/Goodman_Theatre) , the show opened on Broadway (/wiki/Broadway_theatre) at the Nederlander Theatre (/wiki/Nederlander_Theatre) on April 6, 2017, starring Patti LuPone (/wiki/Patti_LuPone) as Rubinstein and Christine Ebersole (/wiki/Christine_Ebersole) as Arden. [35] (#cite_note-35) The comedy Lip Service by the Australian dramatist John Misto (/wiki/John_Misto) chronicles the life and career of Rubinstein and her rivalry with Elizabeth Arden and Revlon (/wiki/Revlon) [ clarification needed ] . Lip Service premiered April 26, 2017, at the Park Theatre (/wiki/Park_Theatre_(London)) in London, under the title Madame Rubinstein , [36] (#cite_note-36) before opening at Sydney's Ensemble Theatre (/wiki/Ensemble_Theatre) in August of the same year. See also [ edit ] Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Business portal (/wiki/Portal:Business) New York City portal (/wiki/Portal:New_York_City) History of cosmetics (/wiki/History_of_cosmetics) List of Polish people § Business (/wiki/List_of_Polish_people#Business) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Helena Rubinstein" (http://www.biography.com/people/helena-rubinstein-9466271) . Biography (/wiki/Biography_(TV_program)) . Retrieved May 19, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Woodhead 2003 (#CITEREFWoodhead2003) , p. 14 for date of death, p. 20 for year of birth (not 1870 as stated on her gravestone: Helena Rubinstein (https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/9574) at Find a Grave (/wiki/Find_a_Grave) ) ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The Beauty Merchant" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120510025631/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,898634-1,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . April 9, 1965. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,898634-1,00.html) on May 10, 2012 . Retrieved August 8, 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Stonehouse, Cheryl (March 16, 2013). "Helena Rubinstein, the penniless refugee who built a cosmetics empire" (http://www.express.co.uk/life-style/fashion-beauty/384696/Helena-Rubinstein-the-penniless-refugee-who-built-a-cosmetics-empire) . Daily Express (/wiki/Daily_Express) . London. ^ (#cite_ref-ushmm1_5-0) "Oral history interview with Ruth Rappaport" (http://collections.ushmm.org/search/catalog/irn42274) . United States Holocaust Memorial Museum (/wiki/United_States_Holocaust_Memorial_Museum) . Retrieved October 26, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Dzienkiewicz, Marta; Rzezak, Joanna; Karski, Piotr; Monod-Gayraud, Agnes (2017). Polish Pioneers: Book of Prominent Poles . Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Dwie Siostry. p. 50. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-8-3653-4168-6 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1060750234 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1060750234) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) O'Higgins, Patrick (1971). Madame: An Intimate Biography of Helena Rubinstein . Viking Press. p. 17. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-6704-4530-1 . Retrieved November 10, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-city-journal_8-0) Kanfer, Stefan (Summer 2004). "The Czarinas of Beauty" (http://www.city-journal.org/html/14_3_urbanities-czarinas.html) . City Journal (/wiki/City_Journal) . Retrieved August 8, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b " (https://www.powderandglory.com/) The Powder & the Glory " (https://www.powderandglory.com/) . Powderglory Productions. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Jones, Geoffrey (March 14, 2019). "How Helena Rubinstein Used Tall Tales to Turn Cosmetics into a Luxury Brand" (https://hbswk.hbs.edu/item/how-helena-rubinstein-used-tall-tales-to-turn-cosmetics-into-a-luxury-brand) . Working Knowledge . Harvard Business School (/wiki/Harvard_Business_School) . Retrieved November 10, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Salvador Dalí: (https://www.salvador-dali.org/en/artwork/catalogue-raisonne-paintings/obra/556/princess-artchil-gourielli-portrait-of-princess-artchil-gourielli) Portrait of Princess Artchil Gourielli " (https://www.salvador-dali.org/en/artwork/catalogue-raisonne-paintings/obra/556/princess-artchil-gourielli-portrait-of-princess-artchil-gourielli) , Catalogue Raisonné of Paintings by Salvador Dalí , Fundació Gala – Salvador Dalí ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Twenty Portraits of Helena Rubinstein to Be Offered by Sotheby's in New York" (https://artdaily.cc/news/46399/Twenty-Portraits-of-Helena-Rubinstein-to-Be-Offered-by-Sotheby-s-in-New-York) , April 8, 2011, artdaily.cc ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Graham Sutherland's portrait of Helena Rubinstein" (https://www.australianbookreview.com.au/arts-update/101-arts-update/3645-graham-sutherland-s-portrait-of-helena-rubinstein) by Fiona Gruber, Australian Book Review (/wiki/Australian_Book_Review) , October 25, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Marie Laurencin: (https://npg.si.edu/object/npg_PC992113) Helena Rubinstein " (https://npg.si.edu/object/npg_PC992113) , National Portrait Gallery (United States) (/wiki/National_Portrait_Gallery_(United_States)) ; "Marie Laurencin: (https://www.artnet.com/artists/marie-laurencin/portrait-de-helena-rubinstein-4RN2A-DJEI5rAArkav_Ixg2) Portrait de Helena Rubinstein " (https://www.artnet.com/artists/marie-laurencin/portrait-de-helena-rubinstein-4RN2A-DJEI5rAArkav_Ixg2) , Artnet (/wiki/Artnet) ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Raoul Dufy: (https://www.artnet.com/artists/raoul-dufy/portrait-de-helena-rubinstein-SL4Rn52fAWujypgrqKOJ_Q2) Portrait de Helena Rubinstein " (https://www.artnet.com/artists/raoul-dufy/portrait-de-helena-rubinstein-SL4Rn52fAWujypgrqKOJ_Q2) , Artnet (/wiki/Artnet) ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Roberto Montenegro: (https://npg.si.edu/object/npg_NPG.2011.141) Helena Rubinstein " (https://npg.si.edu/object/npg_NPG.2011.141) , National Portrait Gallery (United States) (/wiki/National_Portrait_Gallery_(United_States)) ^ Jump up to: a b Poynter, J. R. (1988). "Rubinstein, Helena (1870–1965)" (http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/rubinstein-helena-8293) . Australian Dictionary of Biography (/wiki/Australian_Dictionary_of_Biography) . Vol. 11. Canberra: National Centre of Biography, Australian National University (/wiki/Australian_National_University) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-522-84459-7 . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1833-7538 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1833-7538) . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 70677943 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/70677943) . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Eagle, Mary (1996). "Dobell, Sir William (1899–1970)" (http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/dobell-sir-william-10025) . Australian Dictionary of Biography (/wiki/Australian_Dictionary_of_Biography) . Vol. 14. Canberra: National Centre of Biography, Australian National University (/wiki/Australian_National_University) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-522-84459-7 . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1833-7538 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1833-7538) . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 70677943 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/70677943) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEFitoussi2013[httpsbooksgooglecombooksidhDZDAgAAQBAJpgPT200_200]_19-0) Fitoussi 2013 (#CITEREFFitoussi2013) , p. 200 (https://books.google.com/books?id=hDZDAgAAQBAJ&pg=PT200) . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Mrs. Astor and the Gilded Age [ full citation needed ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Helena Rubinstein Foundation to Close at Year's End" (https://philanthropynewsdigest.org/news/helena-rubinstein-foundation-to-close-at-year-s-end) . Philanthropy News Digest (Press release). November 7, 2011 . Retrieved July 7, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Koykka, Arthur S. (1986). Project remember: a national index of gravesites of notable Americans . Reference Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9172-5622-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Green, Penelope (February 15, 2004). "The Rivals" (https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C01EED8133BF936A25751C0A9629C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=all) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved August 8, 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Clifford, Marie J. (Summer–Autumn 2003). "Helena Rubinstein's Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display". Winterthur Portfolio . 38 (2–3): 83–108. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1086/421422 (https://doi.org/10.1086%2F421422) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 146289495 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:146289495) . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Graham, Ruth. "More Than Skin Deep" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748704754304576096532209518142?mod=googlenews_wsj) , The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) February 5, 2011. From a review of the book Ugly Beauty: Helena Rubinstein, L'Oréal, and the Blemished History of Looking Good by Ruth Brandon (/wiki/Ruth_Brandon) ^ Jump up to: a b Weil, Jennifer (December 1, 2023). "Case Study: Helena Rubinstein's Roaring Comeback" (https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/skin-care/helena-rubinstein-roaring-comeback-1235961009/) . Women's Wear Daily . Fairchild Publishing, LLC . Retrieved April 9, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Reckert, Clare M. (September 6, 1973). "Colgate Acquires Cosmetics Maker Helena Rubinstein" (https://www.nytimes.com/1973/09/06/archives/colgate-acquires-cosmetics-maker-helena-rubinstein-holders-back.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved November 10, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Levin, Doron P. (October 15, 1988). "L'Oreal buys Rubinstein in shrouded deal" (https://www.nytimes.com/1988/10/15/business/l-oreal-buys-rubinstein-in-shrouded-deal.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBrandon2011ch._5:_A_Takeover_and_Three_Scandals_29-0) Brandon 2011 (#CITEREFBrandon2011) , ch. 5: A Takeover and Three Scandals. ^ (#cite_ref-30) Mann, Rebecca (July 15, 2003). "L'Oréal to close Helena Rubinstein brand in the US" (https://moodiedavittreport.com/fragrances-cosmetics-loreal-to-close-helena-rubinstein-brand-in-the-us/) . moodiedavittreport.com . Swansea, United Kingdom: Moodie International Limited . Retrieved April 10, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Rosenberg, Karen (October 30, 2014). "Celebrating Helena Rubinstein at the Jewish Museum" (https://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/31/arts/design/celebrating-helena-rubinstein-at-the-jewish-museum.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power" (http://thejewishmuseum.org/exhibitions/helena-rubinstein-beauty-is-power) . The Jewish Museum . ^ (#cite_ref-33) McCulloch, Alan (/wiki/Alan_McLeod_McCulloch) ; Nodrum, Charles (1984). "Rubinstein Portrait Prize" (https://archive.org/details/encyclopediaofau02mccu_0/page/972/mode/2up?q=rubenstein+portrait+prize) . Encyclopedia of Australian Art . Hutchinson of Australia. p. 973. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-0914-8560-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEWoodhead2003_34-0) Woodhead 2003 (#CITEREFWoodhead2003) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Clement, Olivia (May 14, 2017). "Watch Patti LuPone and Christine Ebersole Chat War Paint on CBS Sunday Morning" (https://www.playbill.com/article/watch-patti-lupone-and-christine-ebersole-chat-war-paint-on-cbs-sunday-morning) . Playbill (/wiki/Playbill) . Retrieved November 10, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Madame Rubinstein by John Misto (https://www.thesoandsoartsclub.com/madame-rubinstein-by-john-misto/) , thesoandsoartsclub.com. Retrieved 2 December 2021. [ dead link ] Sources Brandon, Ruth (/wiki/Ruth_Brandon) (2011). Ugly Beauty: Helena Rubinstein, L'Oreal, and the Blemished History of Looking Good . New York: Harpercollins. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-174040-4 . Fitoussi, Michèle (/wiki/Mich%C3%A8le_Fitoussi) (2013). Helena Rubinstein: The Woman Who Invented Beauty . Translated by Kate Bignold; Lakshmi Ramakrishnan Iyer. Gallic Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781908313553 . Retrieved March 21, 2021 . Woodhead, Lindy (2003). War Paint (1st ed.). Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-471-48778-4 – via Internet Archive (/wiki/Internet_Archive) . Further reading [ edit ] Alpern, Sara. "Helena Rubinstein", Jewish Women: A Comprehensive Historical Encyclopedia , Jewish Publishing Society, 2007 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-965-90937-0-0 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-965-90937-0-0) Brody, Seymour (author), Art Seiden (illustrator) (1956). Jewish Heroes & Heroines of America: 150 True Stories of American Jewish Heroism , Hollywood, Florida: Lifetime Books, 1996 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8119-0823-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-8119-0823-8) Trumble, Angus (/wiki/Angus_Trumble) (2023). Helena Rubinstein: The Australian Years . La Trobe University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781760644529 ; with a foreword by Sarah Krasnostein (/wiki/Sarah_Krasnostein) External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Helena Rubinstein (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Helena_Rubinstein) . helenarubinstein.co.uk (https://www.helenarubinstein.co.uk/) Helena Rubinstein (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/helena-rubinstein/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Jewish Virtual Library: Helena Rubinstein biography (https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/biography/hrubinstein.html) Helena Rubinstein Salon in New York, 1937 (https://www.vintag.es/2020/12/rubinstein-salon.html) v t e L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) Cosmetics Professional products L'Oréal Professionnel (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al_Professionnel) L'Oréal Technique Carol's Daughter (/wiki/Carol%27s_Daughter) Kérastase (/wiki/K%C3%A9rastase) Redken (/wiki/Redken) Matrix Mizani Pureology (/wiki/Jim_Markham) Shu Uemura Art of Hair (/wiki/Shu_Uemura) 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Loose-fitting, straight-hanging shirt-like underwear for women For the wall in fortification, see Chemise (wall) (/wiki/Chemise_(wall)) . Not to be confused with chamise (/wiki/Adenostoma_fasciculatum) , a shrub. Chemise, linen, c.1790-1810. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) Costume Institute: 2009.300.392. A chemise or shift is a classic smock (/wiki/Smock-frock) type of women's undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) or dress. Historically, a chemise was a simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat (/wiki/Sweat) and body oils, the precursor to the modern shirts commonly worn in Western nations. Etymology [ edit ] The English word chemise is a loanword (/wiki/Loanword) from the French word for shirt and is related to the Italian camicia or Latin camisia , which, according to Elizabeth Wayland Barber, is likely derived from Celtic (/wiki/Celtic_languages) . [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] A drawing of a chemise, laid flat. (2014) The chemise seems to have developed from the Roman tunica (/wiki/Tunic) and first became popular in Europe in the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) . At this time, the chemise was commonly referred to as a kemse or kemes . [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) A type of undergarment worn close to the skin in order to protect outergarments, [3] (#cite_note-auto-3) though the term chemise has since been commonly considered a women’s garment, during this period (Medieval through to the 15th century), it was also used to describe an item of men’s underclothing. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Women wore a shift or chemise under their gown (/wiki/Gown) or robe (/wiki/Robe) ; while men wore a chemise with their trousers or braies , and covered the chemise with garments such as doublets (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) , robes, etc. A chemise, shift, or smock was usually sewn at home, by the women of a household. It was assembled from rectangles and triangles cut from one piece of cloth so as to leave no waste. The poor would wear chemises pieced from a narrow piece of rough cloth; while the rich might have voluminous chemises pieced from thin, smooth fine linen. Marie Antoinette wearing a dress that came to be known as chemise à la reine . Chemise during the period up to the 15th century were most often made from linen, [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Over time cotton chemise also came into popularity, with both linen and cotton easy to wash – underclothes often being the only piece of clothing that was washed regularly. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) Further, through the 17th and 18th centuries, linen was considered an essential means of maintaining cleanliness, and therefore, health, [5] (#cite_note-5) a starched white chemise served as an indicator of an individual’s personal hygiene. The term chemise was first used to describe an outer garment in the 1780s, when Queen Marie Antoinette (/wiki/Marie_Antoinette) of France popularized a kind of informal, loose-fitting gown of sheer white cotton, resembling a chemise in both cut and material, which became known as the chemise à la reine . [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) Such a chemise gown was made from very lightweight, slightly sheer fabrics, including muslin, silk, or cambric. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) In saying this, through the 18th century, chemise continued to be used to refer primarily to an undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) , the type earlier described as a smock for women, and a shirt for men. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Through the century, the term shift slowly replaced smock, which would eventually be exchanged for chemise in the 19th century, [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) when chemise came into common use to refer to such a garment, as it was deemed more socially acceptable than shift, which had developed connotations of crudeness. [3] (#cite_note-auto-3) Chemise, cotton, probably American, c.1880s. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) Costume Institute: C.I.51.30.1. Into the 19th century, the chemise as an undergarment developed structure, fitting to the bust where worn next to the skin, underneath a pair of stays, the shaping and fabrics used reminiscent of late 18th century chemise. [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) Though simple in design, the early 19th century chemise often featured small decorative elements, such as a lace or ruffled edge. [8] (#cite_note-:2-8) Where early and mid-19th century examples are often of plain cotton with a square-cut neckline, [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) through the century, chemise as an undergarment developed different shapes and styles, some being highly decorative with trimmings and embroidery. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Through the century, different types of undergarments began to be worn, including combinations (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) . In Western countries, the chemise as an undergarment fell out of fashion in the early 20th century, and was generally replaced by a brassiere (/wiki/Brassiere) , girdle (/wiki/Girdle_(undergarment)) , and full slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) , and panties (/wiki/Panties) first came to be worn. Men's chemises may be said to have survived as the common T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) , which still serves as an undergarment. The chemise also morphed into the smock-frock (/wiki/Smock-frock) , a garment worn by English laborers until the early 20th century. Its loose cut and wide sleeves were well adapted to heavy labor. The name smock is still used for military combat jackets in the UK. Modern chemise [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Chemise) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( June 2012 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A modern chemise is generally a woman's garment that vaguely resembles the older shirts but is typically more delicate, and usually more revealing. Most commonly the term refers to a loose-fitting, sleeveless undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) or type of lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) which is unfitted at the waist. It can also refer to a short, sleeveless dress that hangs straight from the shoulders and fits loosely at the waist. A chemise typically does not have any buttons or other fasteners and is put on by either dropping it over the head or stepping into it and lifting it up. As lingerie, a chemise is similar to a babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) , which is also a short, loose-fitting, sleeveless garment. Typically, though, babydolls are looser fitting at the hips. See also [ edit ] Shift dress (/wiki/Shift_dress) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Kirtle (/wiki/Kirtle) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Slip (clothing) (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Smock (disambiguation) (/wiki/Smock_(disambiguation)) Teddy (garment) (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Portal (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Barber, Elizabeth Wayland (1994). Women's Work: The first 20,000 Years . New York: Norton & Company. p. 137 (https://archive.org/details/womensworkfirst200barb/page/137) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-393-31348-4 . Retrieved 3 June 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C.W.; Cunnington, P.E. (2017). The Dictionary of Fashion History (2nd ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 59–240. ^ Jump up to: a b Purshouse, Craig (September 2018). "Barker v Corus UK Ltd [2006] 2 AC 572" (https://dx.doi.org/10.1093/he/9780191866128.003.0002) . Law Trove . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1093/he/9780191866128.003.0002 (https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fhe%2F9780191866128.003.0002) . ^ Jump up to: a b Chemise , 1851 , retrieved 2023-07-29 ^ (#cite_ref-5) "A Chemise for Clean Comfort • V&A Blog" (https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/projects/a-chemise-for-clean-comfort) . V&A Blog . 2016-01-26 . Retrieved 2023-07-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Chemise Dress" (https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/chemise-dress) . Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion . 2005. ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Title" (https://manchesterartgallery.org/collections/title/) . Manchester Art Gallery . Retrieved 2021-07-06 . ^ Jump up to: a b Shift , 1800–1820 , retrieved 2023-07-29 Bibliography [ edit ] Burnham, Dorothy (1973). Cut My Cote . Royal Ontario Museum (/wiki/Royal_Ontario_Museum) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-88854-046-1 . . A survey of shirt patterns over the ages, with diagrams. Smith, Kathleen R. (February–March 1987). "A Plain Linen Shift: Plain Sewing Makes the Most of Your Fabric". Threads Magazine . Further reading [ edit ] "18th-century women's shifts" (https://web.archive.org/web/20101227201649/http://larsdatter.com/18c/shifts.html) . larsdatter.com . Archived from the original (http://larsdatter.com/18c/shifts.html) on 2010-12-27 . Retrieved 2010-09-01 . "How to make an 18th-century chemise" (http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18chemise.shtml) . marquise.de . "Women's smocks in the 13th-15th centuries" (https://web.archive.org/web/20101015005248/http://www.larsdatter.com/smocks.htm) . larsdatter.com . Archived from the original (http://larsdatter.com/smocks.htm) on 2010-10-15 . Retrieved 2010-09-01 . External links [ edit ] Chemise at Wikipedia's sister projects Definitions (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/chemise) from Wiktionary Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Chemise) from Commons Data (https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q1604733) from Wikidata v t e Lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Upper torso Types (/wiki/List_of_bra_designs) of bras (/wiki/Bra) History (/wiki/History_of_bras) Bandeau (/wiki/Bandeau) Bralette (/wiki/Bralette) Nursing bra (/wiki/Nursing_bra) Sports bra (/wiki/Sports_bra) Training bra (/wiki/Training_bra) Underwire bra (/wiki/Underwire_bra) Male bra (/wiki/Male_bra) Other garments Babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) Bustier (/wiki/Bustier) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Dudou (/wiki/Dudou) Negligee (/wiki/Negligee) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) Torsolette (/wiki/Torsolette) Yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) Lower torso Bikini (/wiki/Bikini) Boyshorts (/wiki/Boyshorts) French knickers (/wiki/French_knickers) Fundoshi (/wiki/Fundoshi) Girdle (/wiki/Girdle_(undergarment)) Girl boxers (/wiki/Girl_boxers) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Period underwear (/wiki/Period_underwear) Tanga (/wiki/Thong) Tap pants (/wiki/Tap_pants) Thong (/wiki/Thong) ( G-string (/wiki/G-string) ) Bloomers (/wiki/Bloomers) Full torso Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Corset (/wiki/Corset) Corselet (/wiki/Corselet) Foundation garment (/wiki/Foundation_garment) Nightshirt (/wiki/Nightshirt) Playsuit (/wiki/Playsuit_(lingerie)) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Hosiery (/wiki/Hosiery) Bodystocking (/wiki/Bodystocking) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Hold-ups (/wiki/Hold-ups) Knee highs (/wiki/Knee_highs) Pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) Stocking (/wiki/Stocking) Tights (/wiki/Tights) Historical Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Boudoir cap (/wiki/Boudoir_cap) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle) Chemise Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) Hoop skirt (/wiki/Hoop_skirt) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) Pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) Petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Waist cincher (/wiki/Waist_cincher) Accessories Falsies (/wiki/Falsies) Lingerie tape (/wiki/Lingerie_tape) Brands List of lingerie brands (/wiki/List_of_lingerie_brands) Retail Bras N Things (/wiki/Bras_N_Things) Cosmo Lady (/wiki/Cosmo_Lady) Figleaves (/wiki/Figleaves) HerRoom (/wiki/HerRoom) Journelle (/wiki/Journelle) True & Co. 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Swedish singer and model (born 1983) Marie Serneholt Serneholt at the 48th Guldbagge Awards (/wiki/48th_Guldbagge_Awards) Background information Birth name Marie Eleonor Serneholt Born ( 1983-07-11 ) 11 July 1983 (age 41) Stockholm (/wiki/Stockholm) , Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) Genres Pop (/wiki/Pop_music) , Europop (/wiki/Europop) Years active 1998–present Labels Planet Six (/wiki/J%C3%B6rgen_Elofsson) , Sony BMG (/wiki/Sony_BMG) Website blogg (https://blogg.mama.nu/marieserneholt/) .mama (https://blogg.mama.nu/marieserneholt/) .nu (https://blogg.mama.nu/marieserneholt/) /marieserneholt (https://blogg.mama.nu/marieserneholt/) / (https://blogg.mama.nu/marieserneholt/) Musical artist Marie Eleonor Serneholt ( Swedish pronunciation: [maˈriː (/wiki/Help:IPA/Swedish) ˈsæ̂ːɳɛˌhɔlt] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Swedish) ; born 11 July 1983) is a Swedish (/wiki/Swedes) singer and model. She was a member of the Swedish pop band A*Teens (/wiki/A-Teens) [1] (#cite_note-billboard-1) from 1998 to 2004, and briefly pursued a solo recording career after the band dissolved. Career [ edit ] A*Teens (1998–2006) [ edit ] Main article: A-Teens (/wiki/A-Teens) In 1998, Serneholt signed a recording deal (/wiki/Recording_contract) with Stockholm Records (/wiki/Stockholm_Records) (part of Universal Music Group (/wiki/Universal_Music_Group) ) along with her bandmates Sara Lumholdt (/wiki/Sara_Lumholdt) , Dhani Lennevald (/wiki/Dhani_Lennevald) , and Amit Sebastian Paul (/wiki/Amit_Sebastian_Paul) . Together they performed as the A*Teens. In 1999, they released their first single, a cover of Swedish pop group ABBA (/wiki/ABBA) 's Mamma Mia (/wiki/Mamma_Mia_(ABBA_song)#A-Teens_version) . The single topped the charts in Sweden for eight consecutive weeks, and achieved international success. [2] (#cite_note-2) By 2000, the A*Teens' first album, The ABBA Generation (/wiki/The_ABBA_Generation) , had sold two million copies, and they became one of the most internationally successful Swedish pop bands. [3] (#cite_note-3) By 2001, the group had sold more than six million albums. In 2004, it released a Greatest Hits (/wiki/Greatest_Hits_(A-Teens_album)) album, and in 2006 the group broke up. [4] (#cite_note-4) Music hiatus (2005) [ edit ] With the A*Teens split, it was rumored that Serneholt would be the first to pursue a solo career. This proved to be unfounded when Lennevald released his debut single in September 2004. In 2005, Serneholt was picked as the face of the Maybelline (/wiki/Maybelline) cosmetics line in Scandinavia. She also gave her voice for the Swedish versions of the movies Robots (/wiki/Robots_(2005_film)) and Herbie: Fully Loaded (/wiki/Herbie:_Fully_Loaded) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Enjoy the Ride (2006–2008) [ edit ] In 2005, Serneholt called Jörgen Elofsson (/wiki/J%C3%B6rgen_Elofsson) , who had written music for Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) and Céline Dion (/wiki/C%C3%A9line_Dion) . Elofsson was busy with other artists at the time, but Serneholt was adamant to have him produce an album for her. When she contacted him again later that year, he had just started collaborating with two relatively young and unknown producers, Richard Brandén and Pär Westerlund. [ citation needed ] Serneholt at Gatufesten in Sundsvall, Sweden, in July 2006 Elofsson created the label Planet Six (a part of Sony BMG (/wiki/Sony_BMG) ), and Serneholt signed her first recording deal as a solo artist. In February 2006, Serneholt's first single, " That's The Way My Heart Goes (/wiki/That%27s_The_Way_My_Heart_Goes) ", premiered on Swedish radio with decent reviews and good response from the public. The single debuted at No. 2 on the Swedish Charts (/wiki/Charts) and reached No. 1 on the official Swedish Digital Downloads (/wiki/Music_download) Chart (/wiki/Chart) , ensuring Gold Status on physical sales alone on 19 May 2006. [6] (#cite_note-6) The album Enjoy the Ride (/wiki/Enjoy_the_Ride_(Marie_Serneholt_album)) was released on 29 March 2006, debuting at No. 9 in her home country but dropping off the charts quickly, while the single's success was growing around the world with releases throughout Europe along with the album and with plans to release it in South and North America in 2007. In May 2006, Serneholt started a promotional tour in Germany coinciding with the German release of her album. She embarked on a Radio Station's Concert Tour of Sweden and Finland. In June, Serneholt released her second single, " I Need a House (/wiki/I_Need_a_House) ", which debuted at No. 2 on the Swedish Digital Downloads Chart, but failed on the physical sales as it reached only No. 40 in Sweden. The single was released in Europe in September 2006. On 19 August 2006, Serneholt performed at Voice '06 in the Kungsträdgården (/wiki/Kungstr%C3%A4dg%C3%A5rden) park in Stockholm. [ citation needed ] 2009–present [ edit ] Serneholt in 2009 hosting Sveriges Television (/wiki/Sveriges_Television) 's broadcast of the National Day of Sweden (/wiki/National_Day_of_Sweden) On 3 December 2008, SVT (/wiki/Sveriges_Television) confirmed Serneholt as the third of four wildcard artists for Melodifestivalen 2009 (/wiki/Melodifestivalen_2009) . On 7 February 2009, during the first semi-final heat, she performed her new single, " Disconnect Me (/wiki/Disconnect_Me) ". She placed sixth of eight and did not advance to the finals. "Disconnect Me" (which also served as the first single from Serneholt's second album) was released on 25 February 2009. [ citation needed ] She worked with Filip Cederholm on the album photoshoots and artwork. She co-hosted Sveriges Television (/wiki/Sveriges_Television) 's broadcast of the National Day of Sweden (/wiki/National_Day_of_Sweden) celebrations in 2009 alongside André Pops (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Pops) . [7] (#cite_note-7) In October 2009, it was announced that she would appear in a Swedish-language version of the musical Grease (/wiki/Grease_(musical)) , resulting in fans questioning whether a follow-up to Enjoy the Ride would ever be released. [8] (#cite_note-Grease-8) Alongside Rickard Olsson (/wiki/Rickard_Olsson) , she co-hosted the semi-finals and finals of the Melodifestivalen 2011 (/wiki/Melodifestivalen_2011) contest. [9] (#cite_note-9) In December 2011, she released a new single, "Himlen i min famn", under Warner Music Sweden (/wiki/Warner_Music_Group) . [10] (#cite_note-10) She participated in the first semi-final of Melodifestivalen 2012 (/wiki/Melodifestivalen_2012) which was held on 4 February 2012 in Vida Arena (/wiki/Vida_Arena) , Växjö (/wiki/V%C3%A4xj%C3%B6) . She sang the song "Salt & Pepper", composed by Lina Eriksson, Mårten Eriksson, and Figge Boström (/wiki/Figge_Bostr%C3%B6m) . She finished sixth in the first round of voting and so was disqualified from the competition. [11] (#cite_note-11) Serneholt presented the Sjuan (/wiki/Sjuan) 's channel bingo show Bingolotto (/wiki/Bingolotto) for two seasons in 2013–14. [12] (#cite_note-12) Serneholt was announced as one of the judges of the Swedish version of popular talent show The X Factor (/wiki/X_Factor_(Sweden)) , which premiered on 9 September 2012. She competed as one of the celebrity dancers in Let's Dance 2015 (/wiki/Let%27s_Dance_2015) , broadcast on TV4 (/wiki/TV4_(Sweden)) , [13] (#cite_note-13) where she was the runner-up. [14] (#cite_note-14) In August 2015, she co-hosted the Swedish game show Fångarna på Fortet (alongside Gunde Svan (/wiki/Gunde_Svan) ) at Fort Boyard (/wiki/Fort_Boyard_(fortification)) for TV4, [15] (#cite_note-15) after Agneta Sjödin (/wiki/Agneta_Sj%C3%B6din) was injured in a bicycle accident. [16] (#cite_note-16) In October 2015 it was announced that Serneholt would host the baking show Det stora tårtslaget on Sjuan (/wiki/Sjuan) in 2016. [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) Discography [ edit ] Albums [ edit ] Marie Serneholt studio albums Title Details Peak chart positions SWE (/wiki/Sverigetopplistan) [19] (#cite_note-swe-19) GER (/wiki/Media_Control_Charts) [20] (#cite_note-20) SWI (/wiki/Swiss_Hitparade) [21] (#cite_note-swi-21) Enjoy the Ride (/wiki/Enjoy_the_Ride_(Marie_Serneholt_album)) Release date: 29 March 2006 Label: Sony BMG (/wiki/Sony_BMG) Formats: CD, music download (/wiki/Music_download) 9 75 78 Singles [ edit ] Marie Serneholt singles Year Title Peak positions Album SWE (/wiki/Sverigetopplistan) [19] (#cite_note-swe-19) AUT (/wiki/%C3%963_Austria_Top_40) FIN (/wiki/The_Official_Finnish_Charts) GER (/wiki/Media_Control_Charts) SWI (/wiki/Swiss_Hitparade) [21] (#cite_note-swi-21) 2006 " That's the Way My Heart Goes (/wiki/That%27s_the_Way_My_Heart_Goes) " 2 46 19 19 24 Enjoy The Ride " I Need a House (/wiki/I_Need_a_House) " 40 — — 49 72 " Oxygen (/wiki/Oxygen_(Marie_Serneholt_song)) " 76 — — — — 2009 " Disconnect Me (/wiki/Disconnect_Me) " 46 — — — — Non-album release 2012 " Salt & Pepper (/w/index.php?title=Salt_%26_Pepper_(song)&action=edit&redlink=1) " — — — — — References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-billboard_1-0) "Marie Serneholt Biography" (http://www.billboard.com/artist/309425/marie-serneholt/biography) . Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150928040445/http://www.billboard.com/artist/309425/marie-serneholt/biography) from the original on 28 September 2015 . Retrieved 11 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "A*Teens - Mamma Mia (Song)" (http://swedishcharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=A*Teens&titel=Mamma+Mia&cat=s) . swedishcharts . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117063301/http://swedishcharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=A*Teens&titel=Mamma+Mia&cat=s) from the original on 17 November 2015 . Retrieved 11 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Carlberg, Ingrid (15 April 2000). "Fabriken A-teens" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160127120914/http://www.dn.se/arkiv/lordag-sondag/fabriken-ateens) . Dagens Nyheter (in Swedish). Archived from the original (http://www.dn.se/arkiv/lordag-sondag/fabriken-ateens) on 27 January 2016 . Retrieved 12 November 2015 . Hittills har gruppen sålt två miljoner exemplar av debutalbumet "The Abba Generation", 200 000 i Sverige och resten utomlands. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Nu återförenas stjärnorna från A-Teens" (http://www.expressen.se/noje/melodifestivalen/nu-aterforenas-stjarnorna-fran-a-teens/) . Expressen (/wiki/Expressen) . 17 February 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304064003/http://www.expressen.se/noje/melodifestivalen/nu-aterforenas-stjarnorna-fran-a-teens/) from the original on 4 March 2016 . Retrieved 12 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Rosa, Christopher (28 July 2015). "What The Hell Happened To A*Teens + Other Early 2000s Pop Acts You Forgot About?" (https://www.vh1.com/news/rj56g3/where-are-they-now-early-2000s-pop-acts) . VH1 (/wiki/VH1) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151105105416/http://www.vh1.com/news/42164/where-are-they-now-early-2000s-pop-acts/) from the original on 5 November 2015 . Retrieved 11 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) HitListan website (http://www.hitlistan.se/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20080223114321/http://www.hitlistan.se/) 23 February 2008 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , hitlistan.se. Retrieved 25 September 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Tv-ekampen om nationaldagen" (http://www.expressen.se/noje/tv-ekampen-om-nationaldagen) . Expressen (/wiki/Expressen) . 6 June 2009. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150926150221/http://www.expressen.se/noje/tv-ekampen-om-nationaldagen/) from the original on 26 September 2015 . Retrieved 25 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-Grease_8-0) "Marie och Sebastian i "Grease" (http://www.svd.se/kulturnoje/nyheter/marie-och-sebastian-i-grease_3690353.svd) " (http://www.svd.se/kulturnoje/nyheter/marie-och-sebastian-i-grease_3690353.svd) . Svenska Dagbladet (/wiki/Svenska_Dagbladet) (in Swedish). 22 October 2009 . Retrieved 20 December 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Marie Serneholt: 'Måns är mitt största stöd" (http://www.expressen.se/noje/melodifestivalen/marie-serneholt-mans-ar-mitt-storsta-stod) . Expressen . 5 February 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150926184954/http://www.expressen.se/noje/melodifestivalen/marie-serneholt-mans-ar-mitt-storsta-stod/) from the original on 26 September 2015 . Retrieved 25 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Marie Serneholt 'Himlen i min famn' (ny singel December 2011) . YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) . 28 November 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130731081140/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDFOt6xZ-Ew) from the original on 31 July 2013 . Retrieved 11 September 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Melodifestivalen 2012: Den totala resultatlistan" (http://www.svt.se/melodifestivalen/melodifestivalen-2012-den-totala-resultatlistan) . svt.se (in Swedish). 12 March 2012. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117031947/http://www.svt.se/melodifestivalen/melodifestivalen-2012-den-totala-resultatlistan) from the original on 17 November 2015 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Marie Serneholt lämnar 'Bingolotto' (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article18570116.ab) " (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article18570116.ab) . Aftonbladet (/wiki/Aftonbladet) . 19 March 2014. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150926065711/http://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article18570116.ab) from the original on 26 September 2015 . Retrieved 25 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Marie Serneholt i "Let's dance" (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/letsdance/article20193127.ab) " (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/letsdance/article20193127.ab) . Aftonbladet . 21 January 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150817093235/http://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/letsdance/article20193127.ab) from the original on 17 August 2015 . Retrieved 25 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Nilsson, Christoffer (25 April 2015). "Marie Serneholt: Känner mig som en vinnare" (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/letsdance/article20686806.ab) . Aftonbladet . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117025823/http://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/letsdance/article20686806.ab) from the original on 17 November 2015 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Agneta Sjödin stoppas från "Fångarna på fortet" (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article20839075.ab) " (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article20839075.ab) . Aftonbladet . 22 May 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150926111914/http://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article20839075.ab) from the original on 26 September 2015 . Retrieved 25 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Marie Serneholt: "Idag får man se mer av den riktiga Marie" (http://www.expressen.se/halsoliv/halsa/i-dag-far-man-se-mer-av-den-riktiga-marie) " (http://www.expressen.se/halsoliv/halsa/i-dag-far-man-se-mer-av-den-riktiga-marie) . Expressen . 4 September 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150926175846/http://www.expressen.se/halsoliv/halsa/i-dag-far-man-se-mer-av-den-riktiga-marie/) from the original on 26 September 2015 . Retrieved 25 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Elmervik, Linn (21 October 2015). "Marie Serneholt leder "Det stora tårtslaget" (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article21620312.ab) " (https://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article21620312.ab) . Aftonbladet . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117063921/http://www.aftonbladet.se/nojesbladet/tv/article21620312.ab) from the original on 17 November 2015 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Marie Serneholt leder Det stora tårtslaget i Sjuan" (http://www.tv4.se/tv4/artiklar/marie-serneholt-leder-det-stora-t%C3%A5rtslaget-i-sjuan-56273babfca38f0df7000606) . tv4.se . 21 October 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117025654/http://www.tv4.se/tv4/artiklar/marie-serneholt-leder-det-stora-t%C3%A5rtslaget-i-sjuan-56273babfca38f0df7000606) from the original on 17 November 2015 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b "swedishcharts.com – Swedish charts portal" (http://www.swedishcharts.com/search.asp?search=Marie+Serneholt&cat=a) . Hung Medien. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20121018223219/http://www.swedishcharts.com/search.asp?search=Marie+Serneholt&cat=a) from the original on 18 October 2012 . Retrieved 22 January 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Media Control Charts – German Albums" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121011113647/http://www.musicline.de/de/chartverfolgung_summary/artist/Serneholt,Marie/?type=longplay) . Hung Medien. Archived from the original (http://www.musicline.de/de/chartverfolgung_summary/artist/Serneholt%2CMarie/?type=longplay) on 11 October 2012 . Retrieved 22 January 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Die Offizielle Schweizer Hitparade und Music Community" (http://hitparade.ch/search.asp?search=Marie+Serneholt&cat=a) . Hung Medien. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20121111183507/http://hitparade.ch/search.asp?search=Marie+Serneholt&cat=a) from the original on 11 November 2012 . Retrieved 22 January 2011 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Marie Serneholt (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Marie_Serneholt) . Marie Serneholt (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1066527/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Marie Serneholt (https://www.discogs.com/artist/Marie+Serneholt) discography at Discogs (/wiki/Discogs) Marie Serneholt (https://www.allmusic.com/artist/mn0000720078) at AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic_(identifier)) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Biography (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Music (/wiki/Portal:Music) v t e A-Teens (/wiki/A-Teens) Marie Serneholt Amit Paul (/wiki/Amit_Sebastian_Paul) Dhani Lennevald (/wiki/Dhani_Lennevald) Sara Lumholdt (/wiki/Sara_Lumholdt) Studio albums The ABBA Generation (/wiki/The_ABBA_Generation) Teen Spirit (/wiki/Teen_Spirit_(album)) Pop 'til You Drop! (/wiki/Pop_%27til_You_Drop!) ( New Arrival (/wiki/New_Arrival) ) Extended plays Extr-A-Teens (/wiki/Extr-A-Teens) Compilation albums Greatest Hits (/wiki/Greatest_Hits_(A-Teens_album)) Remix albums The ABBA Generation Remix (/wiki/The_ABBA_Generation_Remix) Singles " Mamma Mia (/wiki/Mamma_Mia_(ABBA_song)#A-Teens_version) " " Super Trouper (/wiki/Super_Trouper_(song)#A-Teens_version) " " Gimme! Gimme! Gimme! (A Man After Midnight) (/wiki/Gimme!_Gimme!_Gimme!_(A_Man_After_Midnight)#A-Teens_version) " " Happy New Year (/wiki/Happy_New_Year_(song)#A-Teens_version) " " Dancing Queen (/wiki/Dancing_Queen#A-Teens_version) " " Upside Down (/wiki/Upside_Down_(A-Teens_song)) " " Halfway Around the World (/wiki/Halfway_Around_the_World) " " Sugar Rush (/wiki/Sugar_Rush_(A-Teens_song)) " " Heartbreak Lullaby (/wiki/Heartbreak_Lullaby) " " Can't Help Falling in Love (/wiki/Can%27t_Help_Falling_in_Love#A-Teens_version) " " Floorfiller (/wiki/Floorfiller) " " A Perfect Match (/wiki/A_Perfect_Match_(song)) " " I Promised Myself (/wiki/I_Promised_Myself#A-Teens_version) " Related articles Discography (/wiki/A-Teens_discography) Songs (/wiki/List_of_songs_recorded_by_A-Teens) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000066893332) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/80191364) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJckQRqpKCdHgWwTMDDg8C) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/135449944) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n2009048381) Sweden (https://libris.kb.se/w7gf6c5ctzffj7mt) Artists MusicBrainz (https://musicbrainz.org/artist/665d9529-ea57-4aa2-a17a-b5b9da9f91a7) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐kcpmq Cached time: 20240720165455 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.645 seconds Real time usage: 0.854 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3286/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 77728/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 5780/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 14/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 95028/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.444/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 25541113/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 782.195 1 -total 26.06% 203.834 1 Template:Reflist 15.52% 121.390 1 Template:IPA-sv 15.30% 119.685 1 Template:IPA 14.15% 110.683 1 Template:Infobox_musical_artist 12.13% 94.912 1 Template:Infobox 11.18% 87.461 1 Template:A*Teens 10.36% 81.036 2 Template:Short_description 10.01% 78.269 15 Template:Cite_web 9.84% 76.989 1 Template:Navbox_musical_artist Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:799878-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720165455 and revision id 1224651369. 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Canadian model and actress Shannon Tweed Tweed in 2007 Born Shannon Lee Tweed ( 1957-03-10 ) March 10, 1957 (age 67) St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador (/wiki/St._John%27s,_Newfoundland_and_Labrador) , Canada [1] (#cite_note-novkingly-1) Occupation(s) Model, actress Years active 1981–present Spouse Gene Simmons (/wiki/Gene_Simmons) ( m. 2011) Children Nick Simmons (/wiki/Nick_Simmons) Sophie Simmons (/wiki/Sophie_Simmons) Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) centerfold appearance (/wiki/Playboy_Playmate) November 1981 Preceded by Kelly Tough (/wiki/Kelly_Tough) Succeeded by Patricia Farinelli (/wiki/Patricia_Farinelli) Playboy Playmate of the Year (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_the_Year) 1982 Preceded by Terri Welles (/wiki/Terri_Welles) Succeeded by Marianne Gravatte (/wiki/Marianne_Gravatte) Shannon Lee Tweed Simmons (born March 10, 1957) is a Canadian model and actress. One of the most successful actresses of mainstream erotica (/wiki/Erotica) , she is identified with the genre of the erotic thriller (/wiki/Erotic_thriller) cinema. Tweed has appeared in more than 60 films and several television series. She was named Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) ' s Playmate of the Year (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_the_Year) in 1982. Tweed is also known for Gene Simmons Family Jewels (/wiki/Gene_Simmons_Family_Jewels) , a reality (/wiki/Reality_television) TV show that portrayed the life of her family from 2006 until 2012. She is married to Gene Simmons (/wiki/Gene_Simmons) , bassist and co-lead singer of the band Kiss (/wiki/Kiss_(band)) ; Tweed and Simmons have two children, Nicholas Adam Tweed-Simmons (/wiki/Nick_Simmons) and Sophie Alexandra Tweed-Simmons (/wiki/Sophie_Simmons) . Early life [ edit ] Tweed was born on March 10, 1957, [1] (#cite_note-novkingly-1) in St. John's (/wiki/St._John%27s,_Newfoundland_and_Labrador) , Newfoundland (/wiki/Newfoundland_and_Labrador) . She is the daughter of Donald Keith Tweed, a mink (/wiki/Mink) rancher, and Louise ( née (/wiki/Birth_name#Maiden_and_married_names) Wall ) Tweed, [2] (#cite_note-people-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) and was raised on a mink ranch in Whitbourne. She is one of seven children and has three sisters, including actress Tracy Tweed. [4] (#cite_note-Can-4) After Donald Tweed fell into a coma after a car crash, Louise moved with her children to her mother's home in Saskatoon (/wiki/Saskatoon) , Saskatchewan (/wiki/Saskatchewan) , and studied nursing while the family survived on welfare. Shannon had breast enhancement surgery at the age of 20 and subsequently became involved in beauty pageants. [2] (#cite_note-people-2) Career [ edit ] Tweed in the 2012 Heart Truth celebrity fashion show In 1978, Tweed was the third runner-up in the Miss Ottawa event and won the Miss Canada talent competition for her singing. [2] (#cite_note-people-2) After the Canadian wish-fulfilment TV show Thrill of a Lifetime (/wiki/Thrill_of_a_Lifetime_(TV_series)) arranged for her to pose for Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) magazine, Tweed was chosen to be the Playmate of the Month (/wiki/Playboy_Playmate) for the November 1981 issue, and eventually the Playmate of the Year (/wiki/Playmate_of_the_Year) for 1982. [5] (#cite_note-Orange-5) [6] (#cite_note-Axworthy-6) [7] (#cite_note-Wolfe-7) [8] (#cite_note-Blade-8) Tweed and her sister Tracy appeared together in a Playboy spread. Tweed primarily acted in B movies (/wiki/B_movie) and in television series such as the HBO (/wiki/HBO) comedy 1st and Ten (/wiki/1st_%26_Ten_(HBO_TV_series)) [9] (#cite_note-9) and the prime-time soap opera Falcon Crest (/wiki/Falcon_Crest) , [5] (#cite_note-Orange-5) [8] (#cite_note-Blade-8) She also appeared in an episode of The Dukes of Hazzard (/wiki/The_Dukes_of_Hazzard) as well as Married... with Children (/wiki/Married..._with_Children) . In 1985, she landed a year-long role on Days of Our Lives (/wiki/Days_of_Our_Lives) as Savannah Wilder (/wiki/Savannah_Wilder) . [8] (#cite_note-Blade-8) [4] (#cite_note-Can-4) Tweed has appeared as a guest (/wiki/Guest_appearance) on Frasier (/wiki/Frasier) . [10] (#cite_note-10) She has also lent her voice to the Nickelodeon (/wiki/Nickelodeon) cartoon SpongeBob SquarePants (/wiki/SpongeBob_SquarePants) in the episode " 20,000 Patties Under the Sea (/wiki/20,000_Patties_Under_the_Sea) ", which also featured Gene Simmons as a guest. [11] (#cite_note-11) The first major theatrical film (/wiki/Theatrical_film) in which Tweed appeared was the horror film Of Unknown Origin (/wiki/Of_Unknown_Origin) (1983). Since then, Tweed has appeared in more than 60 films, including Detroit Rock City (/wiki/Detroit_Rock_City_(film)) , produced by Simmons, in 1999. Tweed and her sister Tracy co-starred in the film Night Eyes 3. [12] (#cite_note-Andrews2006-12) She is known as one of the most successful actresses of mainstream erotica (/wiki/Erotica) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazines)) has described Tweed as "one of home video's most rented erotic thriller goddesses". [14] (#cite_note-14) Tweed was featured along with her family on the reality TV show Gene Simmons Family Jewels (/wiki/Gene_Simmons_Family_Jewels) from 2006 until 2012. One of the highlights of the series was Simmons' proposal to her and their subsequent marriage at the Beverly Hills Hotel (/wiki/Beverly_Hills_Hotel) in Beverly Hills (/wiki/Beverly_Hills) , California (/wiki/California) . [15] (#cite_note-15) In 2010, an episode of the series was taped in Tweed's former hometown of Saskatoon. During the visit, she was presented with an honorary street sign denoting the (nonexistent) "Tweed Lane". Tourism Saskatoon subsequently requested Saskatoon City Council approve the naming of a real Tweed Lane in her honour. [16] (#cite_note-16) The Council approved the request, and the street is located in the neighbourhood of Rosewood (/wiki/Rosewood,_Saskatoon) . [17] (#cite_note-17) Tweed is the narrator of the reality TV show Ex-Wives of Rock . [18] (#cite_note-18) Personal life [ edit ] Tweed resided at the Playboy Mansion (/wiki/Playboy_Mansion) for approximately 14 months as Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) founder Hugh Hefner (/wiki/Hugh_Hefner) 's partner. [19] (#cite_note-auto-19) The relationship coincided with her Playmate appearances and with being named 1982 Playmate of the Year. [2] (#cite_note-people-2) The Mansion was the location of her first meeting with her future husband, musician Gene Simmons. [19] (#cite_note-auto-19) Tweed has been in a relationship with Simmons since 1983. In a 2011 interview, Simmons said, "I need Shannon in my life. Not just because of love and family but because she holds me accountable." [20] (#cite_note-20) After 28 years together, the couple wed in an outdoor evening ceremony on the crystal lawn of The Beverly Hills Hotel (/wiki/The_Beverly_Hills_Hotel) on October 1, 2011. [21] (#cite_note-21) Tweed (second from right) visiting The Pentagon (/wiki/The_Pentagon) with her husband Gene Simmons in 2019 Filmography [ edit ] Films [ edit ] Year Film Role Notes 1983 Curtains (/wiki/Curtains_(1983_film)) Body Double Uncredited Of Unknown Origin (/wiki/Of_Unknown_Origin) Meg Hughes Playboy Video Playmate Review Herself 1984 Hot Dog…The Movie (/wiki/Hot_Dog%E2%80%A6The_Movie) Sylvia Fonda The Surrogate (/wiki/The_Surrogate_(1984_film)) Lee Waite 1986 Meatballs III: Summer Job (/wiki/Meatballs_III:_Summer_Job) The Love Goddess 1987 Steele Justice (/wiki/Steele_Justice) Angela Spinelli Dragnet (/wiki/Dragnet_(1987_film)) Baitmate Uncredited Code Name Vengeance Sam 1988 Lethal Woman Tory MacAllistair, Ex-Pilot The Firing Line Sandra Spencer 1989 Cannibal Women in the Avocado Jungle of Death (/wiki/Cannibal_Women_in_the_Avocado_Jungle_of_Death) Dr. Margo Hunt Night Visitor (/wiki/Night_Visitor) Lisa Grace Playboy Playmates of the Year: The 80's Herself Documentary 1990 In the Cold of the Night (/wiki/In_the_Cold_of_the_Night) Lena 1991 Last Call (/wiki/Last_Call_(1991_film)) Cindy / Audrey The Last Hour (/wiki/The_Last_Hour_(1991_film)) Susan 1992 Liar's Edge (/wiki/Liar%27s_Edge) Heather Burnz Night Eyes 2 (/wiki/Night_Eyes_2) Marilyn Mejenes The Naked Truth (/wiki/The_Naked_Truth_(1992_film)) The First Class Stewardess 1993 Cold Sweat (/wiki/Cold_Sweat_(1993_film)) Beth Moore Night Eyes 3 (/wiki/Night_Eyes_3) Zoe Clairmont Indecent Behavior Dr. Rebecca Mathis 1994 Possessed by the Night (/wiki/Possessed_by_the_Night) Carol McKay Direct-to-video Scorned [22] (#cite_note-22) Patricia Langley / Amanda Chessfield Hard Vice Andrea Night Fire (/wiki/Night_Fire) Lydia Indecent Behavior 2 Dr. Rebecca Mathis Illicit Dreams (/wiki/Illicit_Dreams) Moira Davis 1995 No Contest (/wiki/No_Contest_(film)) Sharon Bell Victim of Desire (/wiki/Victim_of_Desire) Carla Duvall The Dark Dancer Dr. Margaret Simpson Body Chemistry IV: Full Exposure (/wiki/Body_Chemistry_IV:_Full_Exposure) Dr. Claire Archer Direct-to-video Indecent Behavior 3 Dr. Rebecca Mathis Associate producer 1996 Stormy Nights Jennifer McCormick Electra Lorna Duncan / Electra White Cargo Alexia Playboy: 21 Playmates Centerfold Collection Herself Documentary 1997 No Contest II (/wiki/No_Contest_II) Sharon Bell Human Desires Alicia Royale Direct-to-video Associate producer Bimbo Bash Movie Margo Java Heads: The Movie Playboy Celebrity Centerfold: Shannon Tweed Herself Documentary 1998 Naked Lies Cara Landry Associate producer Dead by Dawn Wendy Marsh Playboy: Celebrities Herself Documentary Playboy: Babes of Baywatch Herself Documentary 1999 Detroit Rock City (/wiki/Detroit_Rock_City_(film)) Amanda Finch Forbidden Sins (/wiki/Forbidden_Sins) Maureen Doherty Scandalous Behavior Lisa Blair Direct-to-video Associate producer Playboy: Playmate Pajama Party Herself Documentary 2000 The Rowdy Girls Velvet McKenzie Co-producer Diaries of Darkness 2001 Dead Sexy Kate McBain Direct-to-video Executive producer 2002 Wish You Were Dead Lesbian Hitwoman 2003 Sex at 24 Frames Per Second Herself Interviewee Documentary 2004 Playboy: 50 Years of Playmates Herself, Miss November 1981 Documentary 2014 Sex, Marriage and Infidelity Margaret A Very Satan Christmas Herself Short The Ultimate Wedding Planner Herself Documentary Gone South: How Canada Invented Hollywood Herself Documentary Television [ edit ] Year Film Role Notes 1982 Drop-Out Father Beautiful Woman TV film 1982–1983 Falcon Crest (/wiki/Falcon_Crest) Diana Hunter 21 episodes 1983 Fantasy Island (/wiki/Fantasy_Island) Celina Morgan Season 7 episode 7: " The Wedding Picture/Castaways (/wiki/List_of_Fantasy_Island_episodes#Season_7:_1983–84) " Match Game/Hollywood Squares Hour (/wiki/Match_Game/Hollywood_Squares_Hour) Herself Panelist 5 episodes 1984 The New Mike Hammer (/wiki/The_New_Mike_Hammer) Karen Thorsen Season 1 episode 9: "The Perfect Twenty" Family Feud (/wiki/Family_Feud) Herself Episode: "Battle of the Perfect 10's: Wilt's Wows vs. Debbies Dudes; Richard's Rosebuds vs. Phyllis Fighters" The First Olympics: Athens 1896 Woman Mini-series Uncredited The Dukes of Hazzard (/wiki/The_Dukes_of_Hazzard) Betty Jo Page Season 7 episode 2: " Welcome, Waylon Jennings (/wiki/List_of_The_Dukes_of_Hazzard_episodes#Season_7_(1984–85)) " 1984–1987 The Hitchhiker (/wiki/The_Hitchhiker_(TV_series)) Barbara / Dr. Rita de Roy Season 2 episode 6: "Videodate" Season 4 episode 6: "Doctor's Orders" 1985 Three's a Crowd (/wiki/Three%27s_a_Crowd) Princess Leanna Episode 20: "King for a Day" Playboy Mid Summer Night's Dream Party 1985 Herself Documentary 1985–1986 Days of Our Lives (/wiki/Days_of_Our_Lives) Savannah Wilder (/wiki/Savannah_Wilder) 142 episodes 1986 Cagney & Lacey (/wiki/Cagney_%26_Lacey) Vicki Barrington Season 6 episode 5: " Role Call (/wiki/List_of_Cagney_%26_Lacey_episodes#Season_6_(1986–87) " Highway to Heaven (/wiki/Highway_to_Heaven) Nina Van Slyke Season 3 episode 12: " Oh Lucky Man (/wiki/List_of_Highway_to_Heaven_episodes#Season_3_(1986–87)) " 1987 The Last Fling (/wiki/The_Last_Fling) Joanne Preston TV film CBS Summer Playhouse (/wiki/CBS_Summer_Playhouse) Beth Season 1 episode 15: "Sirens" Nine to Five (/wiki/Nine_to_Five_(TV_series)) Tiffany Crystal Season 5 episode 1: "Meet Mr. Felb" Ohara (/wiki/Ohara_(TV_series)) Randi Season 2 episode 1: "Y' Wanna Live Forever?" L.A. Law (/wiki/L.A._Law) Jocelyn Miller Season 2 episode 1: " The Lung Goodbye (/wiki/List_of_L.A._Law_episodes#Season_2_(1987–88)) " 21 Jump Street (/wiki/21_Jump_Street) Jody Kleinman Season 2 episode 9: " You Oughta Be in Prison (/wiki/List_of_21_Jump_Street_episodes#Season_2_(1987–88)) " Hooperman (/wiki/Hooperman) Season 1 episode 7: "Hot Wired" Rags to Riches (/wiki/Rags_to_Riches_(TV_series)) Babe Adair Season 2 episode 9: "Beauty and the Babe" Sex Symbols; Past, Present and Future Herself Documentary 1988 Our House (/wiki/Our_House_(1986_TV_series)) Maxine Denton Season 2 episodes 16 and 17: "Trouble in Paradise: Part 1" and "Trouble in Paradise: Part 2" Longarm (/wiki/Longarm_(film)) Sally "Crazy Sally" TV film 1989 Dear John (/wiki/Dear_John_(U.S._TV_series)) Margo Season 1 episode 20: "Margo" Desperado: The Outlaw Wars (/wiki/Desperado_(film_series)#Desperado:_The_Outlaw_Wars) Uncredited 1989–1991 1st & Ten: The Championship Kristy Fullbright 30 episodes 1990 Hollywood Dog TV film 1991 Tagteam Leona TV film Parker Lewis Can't Lose (/wiki/Parker_Lewis_Can%27t_Lose) Ms. Mason Season 2 episode 5: " The Undergraduate (/wiki/List_of_Parker_Lewis_Can%27t_Lose_episodes#Season_2_(1991–92)) " Baywatch (/wiki/Baywatch) Allison Fowles Season 2 episode 11: " If Looks Could Kill (/wiki/List_of_Baywatch_episodes#Season_2_(1991–92)) " Fly by Night (/wiki/Fly_by_Night_(TV_series)) Sally "Slick" Monroe 13 episodes 1992 Civil Wars (/wiki/Civil_Wars_(TV_series)) Luree Season 1 episode 8: "For Better or Perverse" Sexual Response (/wiki/Sexual_Response_(1992_film)) Eve Anderson 1993 Matrix (/wiki/Matrix_(TV_series)) Andrea Hopper Episode 2: "To Err Is Human" 1994 Hot Line (/wiki/Hot_Line_(TV_series)) Rebecca Season 1 episodes 5 and 6: ""Payback" and "Payback" Model by Day Shannon TV film 1995 Married... with Children (/wiki/Married..._with_Children) Shannon Tweed Season 10 episode 9: " The Two That Got Away (/wiki/Married..._with_Children_(season_10)) " Murder, She Wrote (/wiki/Murder,_She_Wrote) Priscilla Lake Season 11 episode 15: " Twice Dead (/wiki/List_of_Murder,_She_Wrote_episodes#Season_11_(1994–95)) " Marker (/wiki/Marker_(TV_series)) Samantha Kent Episode 12: "Factor X" 1995–2001 Frasier (/wiki/Frasier) Dr. Honey Snow Season 2 episode 15: " You Scratch My Book... (/wiki/You_Scratch_My_Book...) " Season 9 episode 2: " Don Juan in Hell: Part 2 (/wiki/Don_Juan_in_Hell_(Frasier_episode)) " 1996 Pacific Blue (/wiki/Pacific_Blue_(TV_series)) Sheila Silver Season 1 episodes 1 and 8: Pilot (/wiki/List_of_Pacific_Blue_episodes#Season_1_(1996)) and " Burnout (/wiki/List_of_Pacific_Blue_episodes#Season_1_(1996)) " 1997 Homeboys in Outer Space (/wiki/Homeboys_in_Outer_Space) Delia Episode 18: "The Naked and the Dred, or the Toast of the Town" Wings (/wiki/Wings_(1990_TV_series)) Emily Palmer Season 8 episode 21: " Oedipus Wrecks (/wiki/List_of_Wings_episodes#Season_8_(1996–97)) " Nash Bridges (/wiki/Nash_Bridges) Bess Season 3 episode 2: " Payback (/wiki/List_of_Nash_Bridges_episodes#Season_3_(1997–1998)) " Assault on Devil's Island (/wiki/Assault_on_Devil%27s_Island) Hunter Wiley TV film 1997–1998 The Tom Show (/wiki/The_Tom_Show) Maggie Amross Episodes 2, 12, and 16: "Bad Publicity," "Maggie Returns," and "The Centerfold" 1999 Assault on Death Mountain (/wiki/Assault_on_Death_Mountain) Hunter Wiley TV film Powerplay Jacqueline Knight TV film V.I.P. (/wiki/V.I.P._(American_TV_series)) Herself Season 1 episode 15: " Val on the Run (/wiki/List_of_V.I.P._episodes#eason_1_(1998–99)) " Beggars and Choosers (/wiki/Beggars_and_Choosers_(TV_series)) Shannon Tweed Season 1 episode 8: "Unsafe Sex" Get Real (/wiki/Get_Real_(U.S._TV_series)) Joanna Parsons Episode 3: "Passages" 2000–2003 The Parkers (/wiki/The_Parkers) Sophia Van Lowe Season 1 episode 19: " Moving on Out (/wiki/List_of_The_Parkers_episodes#Season_1:_1999–2000) " Season 3 episode 20: " Mother's Day Blues (/wiki/List_of_The_Parkers_episodes#Season_3_(2001–02)) " Season 5 episode 11: " Out with the Old, in with the New (/wiki/List_of_The_Parkers_episodes#Season_5_(2003–04)) " 2002 My Guide to Becoming a Rock Star (/wiki/My_Guide_to_Becoming_a_Rock_Star) Mom 11 episodes 2003 Run of the House (/wiki/Run_of_the_House) Ms. Dee Dee Cole Episode 5: "Where There's Smoke, There's Fire" Banzai (/wiki/Banzai_(TV_series)) Herself Uncredited 2004 Frasier: Analyzing the Laughter Dr. Honey Snow Uncredited When Playboy Ruled the World Herself Documentary 2006 Playboy: Celebrity Centerfolds Herself Documentary 2006–2012 Gene Simmons Family Jewels (/wiki/Gene_Simmons_Family_Jewels) Herself 158 episodes 2007 SpongeBob SquarePants (/wiki/SpongeBob_SquarePants) Woman Fish (/wiki/List_of_SpongeBob_SquarePants_characters) Voice Season 5 episode 17 (/wiki/SpongeBob_SquarePants_(season_5)) : " 20,000 Patties Under the Sea/The Battle of Bikini Bottom (/wiki/SpongeBob_SquarePants_(season_5)#Episodes) " 2008 Are You Smarter Than a 5th Grader? (/wiki/Are_You_Smarter_Than_a_5th_Grader%3F) Herself, Audience Member 2009 Hugh Hefner: Playboy, Activist and Rebel Herself: Playmate of the Year 1982 / Actress Documentary 2010 United States of Tara (/wiki/United_States_of_Tara) Knatasha Knightblade Season 2 episode 7: " Dept. of F'd Up Family Services (/wiki/List_of_United_States_of_Tara_episodes#Season_2_(2010)) " Bill Zucker's Day with the Simmons Herself 2012 How Playboy Changed the World Herself Documentary America's Book of Secrets Herself Season 1 episode 6: "The Playboy Mansion" 2012–2013 Republic of Doyle (/wiki/Republic_of_Doyle) Frances Lemont Season 3 episode 2: " Head Over Heels (/wiki/List_of_Republic_of_Doyle_episodes#Season_3:_2012) " Season 5 episode 7: " Hook, Line and Sinker (/wiki/List_of_Republic_of_Doyle_episodes#Season_5:_2013–142) " 2014 Seed (/wiki/Seed_(TV_series)) Wendy Maybely Season 2 episode 7: "Mother Sucker" Credited as Shannon Tweed-Simmons Canada's Smartest Person (/wiki/Canada%27s_Smartest_Person) Herself, Lie Detector Guest Season 1 episode 6: "#1.6" Credited as Shannon Tweed-Simmons 2013 Ex-Wives of Rock Herself Narrator 2014 Shannon & Sophie Herself Executive producer 13 Nights of Elvira (/wiki/Elvira%27s_Movie_Macabre#2014:_13_Nights_of_Elvira) Dr. Margo Hunt Episode 1: Cannibal Women in the Avocado Jungle of Death (/wiki/Cannibal_Women_in_the_Avocado_Jungle_of_Death) 2015 Sunday Brunch Set decorator Episode 6: "The Smoking Pistol" 2017 Hell's Kitchen (/wiki/Hell%27s_Kitchen_(U.S._season_17)) Herself Season 17 episode 4: " Just Letter Cook (/wiki/Hell%27s_Kitchen_(U.S._season_17)#Episodes) " See also [ edit ] Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Film (/wiki/Portal:Film) Television (/wiki/Portal:Television) List of people in Playboy 1980–1989 (/wiki/List_of_people_in_Playboy_1980%E2%80%931989) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Playmate data" (http://wekinglypigs.com/cgi-bin/nand/search/pmstat?browse=%3A%3ACONFIG%3A%3Amodelbrowse&key=tweed%2C+shannon+lee&limit=0) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120503100133/http://wekinglypigs.com/cgi-bin/nand/search/pmstat?browse=::CONFIG::modelbrowse&key=tweed,+shannon+lee&limit=0) from the original on May 3, 2012 . Retrieved July 18, 2010 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Buchalter, Gail (December 6, 1982). "That New Bird on Hugh Hefner's Arm Is a Falcon Crest Fledgling from Canada Named Shannon Tweed" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110818153435/https://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20083720,00.html) . People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20083720,00.html) on August 18, 2011 . Retrieved August 10, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Maria Thiesson Obituary (http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/thestarphoenix/obituary.aspx?pid=155706795) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160506060128/http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/thestarphoenix/obituary.aspx?pid=155706795) May 6, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Legacy.com ^ Jump up to: a b Riggs, Jonathan. "Shannon Tweed- Biography" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140203114004/http://ca.movies.yahoo.com/person/shannon-tweed/biography.html) . Yahoo! Movies Canada . Yahoo!. Archived from the original (http://ca.movies.yahoo.com/person/shannon-tweed/biography.html) on February 3, 2014 . Retrieved January 19, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b de Arakal, Byron (April 1983). "Hanging Around with Shannon Tweed, (https://books.google.com/books?id=JxAEAAAAMBAJ) Falcon Crest 's Confident Belle" (https://books.google.com/books?id=JxAEAAAAMBAJ) . Orange Coast (April 1983): 18–25. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230115195401/https://books.google.com/books?id=JxAEAAAAMBAJ) from the original on January 15, 2023 . Retrieved July 26, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-Axworthy_6-0) Axworthy, Tom (1987). Our American Cousins: The United States through Canadian Eyes . Toronto: Lorimer. p. 182. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-88862-878-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-Wolfe_7-0) Wolfe, Morris (1987). Jolts: the TV wasteland and the Canadian oasis . Toronto: Lorimer. p. 66 (https://archive.org/details/joltstvwasteland0000wolf/page/66) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-88862-648-6 . ^ Jump up to: a b c " (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1350&dat=19850709&id=YQ1PAAAAIBAJ&pg=4464,143737&hl=fr) Today leads morning ratings" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1350&dat=19850709&id=YQ1PAAAAIBAJ&pg=4464,143737&hl=fr) . Toledo Blade (/wiki/The_Blade_(Toledo,_Ohio)) . July 9, 1985. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230115195346/https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1350&dat=19850709&id=YQ1PAAAAIBAJ&pg=4464,143737&hl=fr) from the original on January 15, 2023 . Retrieved December 10, 2019 – via news.google.com. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Dinsmore, Jef (November 11, 2013). "HBO Classics: 1ST & TEN" (http://hbowatch.com/hbo-classics1st-ten/) . HBO Watch . Reinhart Web Development LLC. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140119143252/http://hbowatch.com/hbo-classics1st-ten/) from the original on January 19, 2014 . Retrieved January 19, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Shannon Tweed" (http://www.filmbug.com/db/26813) . Filmbug . MISJA.COM. 1998–2014. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140203021231/http://www.filmbug.com/db/26813) from the original on February 3, 2014 . Retrieved January 19, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Riggs, Larry. "Gene Simmons Is Guest Voice On "Spongebob Squarepants." (https://www.wfmynews2.com/article/news/gene-simmons-is-guest-voice-on-spongebob-squarepants/83-402965342) " (https://www.wfmynews2.com/article/news/gene-simmons-is-guest-voice-on-spongebob-squarepants/83-402965342) . WFMY News 2 . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20211221233533/https://www.wfmynews2.com/article/news/gene-simmons-is-guest-voice-on-spongebob-squarepants/83-402965342) from the original on December 21, 2021 . Retrieved December 13, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Andrews2006_12-0) Andrews, David (January 1, 2006). Soft in the Middle: The Contemporary Softcore Feature in Its Contexts . Ohio State University Press. pp. 313–. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8142-1022-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Green, Phillip. Cracks in the Pedestal: Ideology and Gender in Hollywood . Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press (/wiki/University_of_Massachusetts_Press) , 1998: 170 ^ (#cite_ref-14) Liebenson, Donald (March 20, 2017). " (https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/03/basic-instinct-anniversary-sharon-stone-video) "The Sexpendables": How Basic Instinct Birthed a Schlocky, Sexy Cottage Industry" (https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/03/basic-instinct-anniversary-sharon-stone-video) . Vanity Fair . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201112035430/http://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/03/basic-instinct-anniversary-sharon-stone-video) from the original on November 12, 2020 . Retrieved November 16, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Strause, Jackie. "EXCLUSIVE: Gene Simmons and Shannon Tweed Renew Wedding Vows!" (http://www.lifeandstylemag.com/couples/news/gene-simmons-shannon-tweed-renew-wedding-vows-exclusive) . Life and Style magazine. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20131230234055/http://www.lifeandstylemag.com/couples/news/gene-simmons-shannon-tweed-renew-wedding-vows-exclusive) from the original on December 30, 2013 . Retrieved December 30, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Saskatoon street could be named after Shannon Tweed" (http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatchewan/story/2011/06/28/sk-tweed-street-1106.html) . CBC News . June 28, 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230115195357/https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatchewan/saskatoon-street-could-be-named-after-shannon-tweed-1.1045623) from the original on January 15, 2023 . Retrieved September 7, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Hutton, David (June 29, 2011). "Tweed Lane new jewel on city map" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131203031643/http://www2.canada.com/saskatoonstarphoenix/news/story.html?id=9f9a106f-76a5-4baf-a948-56818727cf48) . The StarPhoenix . Archived from the original (http://www2.canada.com/saskatoonstarphoenix/news/story.html?id=9f9a106f-76a5-4baf-a948-56818727cf48) on December 3, 2013 . Retrieved September 7, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Bourdeau, Annette (August 30, 2012). " (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/annette-bourdeau/ex-wives-of-rock-slice_b_1844619.html) 'Ex-Wives of Rock': Hello, Guilty Pleasure" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/annette-bourdeau/ex-wives-of-rock-slice_b_1844619.html) . Huffington Post . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160403231459/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/annette-bourdeau/ex-wives-of-rock-slice_b_1844619.html) from the original on April 3, 2016 . Retrieved September 25, 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Shannon Tweed" (http://www.askmen.com/celebs/women/actress_100/102_shannon_tweed.html) . Askmen . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170808005424/http://www.askmen.com/celebs/women/actress_100/102_shannon_tweed.html) from the original on August 8, 2017 . Retrieved January 19, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "The Smart Ass Wedding Announcement" (http://www.tmz.com/2011/09/01/gene-simmons-shannon-tweed-wedding-announcement-invitation-kids-beverly-hills-hotel-kiss/#.TmBCVI7hglo) . TMZ.com . September 1, 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140201152229/http://www.tmz.com/2011/09/01/gene-simmons-shannon-tweed-wedding-announcement-invitation-kids-beverly-hills-hotel-kiss/#.TmBCVI7hglo) from the original on February 1, 2014 . Retrieved January 19, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) McNiece, Mia (October 1, 2011). "People Exclusive: Gene Simmons Is Married" (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20533363,00.html) . People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140408185141/http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20533363,00.html) from the original on April 8, 2014 . Retrieved March 27, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Lel, Jedadiah (August 17, 2017). "A Movie A Day #221: Scorned (1994, directed by Andrew Stevens)" (https://unobtainium13.com/2017/08/17/a-movie-a-day-221-scorned-1994-directed-by-andrew-stevens/) . Through the Shattered Lens . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190128135231/https://unobtainium13.com/2017/08/17/a-movie-a-day-221-scorned-1994-directed-by-andrew-stevens/) from the original on January 28, 2019 . Retrieved January 28, 2019 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Shannon Tweed (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Shannon_Tweed) . Shannon Tweed (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000238/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) AskMen.com: Shannon Tweed (https://web.archive.org/web/20061025121850/http://ca.askmen.com/women/actress_100/102_shannon_tweed.html) v t e Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) Playmates (/wiki/Playboy_Playmate) of 1981 Karen Price (/wiki/Karen_Price) Vicki Lasseter (/wiki/Vicki_Lasseter) Kymberly Herrin (/wiki/Kymberly_Herrin) Lorraine Michaels (/wiki/Lorraine_Michaels) Gina Goldberg (/wiki/Gina_Goldberg) Cathy Larmouth (/wiki/Cathy_Larmouth) Heidi Sorenson (/wiki/Heidi_Sorenson) Debbie Boostrom (/wiki/Debbie_Boostrom) Susan Smith (/wiki/Susan_Smith_(model)) Kelly Tough (/wiki/Kelly_Tough) Shannon Tweed Patricia Farinelli (/wiki/Patricia_Farinelli) Playmates of 1954 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1954) 1955 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1955) 1956 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1956) 1957 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1957) 1958 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1958) 1959 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1959) 1960 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1960) 1961 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1961) 1962 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1962) 1963 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1963) 1964 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1964) 1965 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1965) 1966 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1966) 1967 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1967) 1968 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1968) 1969 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1969) 1970 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1970) 1971 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1971) 1972 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1972) 1973 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1973) 1974 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1974) 1975 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1975) 1976 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1976) 1977 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1977) 1978 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1978) 1979 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1979) 1980 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1980) 1981 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1981) 1982 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1982) 1983 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1983) 1984 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1984) 1985 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1985) 1986 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1986) 1987 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1987) 1988 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1988) 1989 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1989) 1990 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1990) 1991 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1991) 1992 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1992) 1993 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1993) 1994 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1994) 1995 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1995) 1996 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1996) 1997 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1997) 1998 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1998) 1999 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1999) 2000 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2000) 2001 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2001) 2002 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2002) 2003 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2003) 2004 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2004) 2005 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2005) 2006 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2006) 2007 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2007) 2008 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2008) 2009 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2009) 2010 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2010) 2011 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2011) 2012 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2012) 2013 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2013) 2014 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2014) 2015 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2015) 2016 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2016) 2017 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2017) 2018 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2018) 2019 (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2019) v t e Playboy Playmates (/wiki/Playboy_Playmate) of the Year 1960s Ellen Stratton (/wiki/Ellen_Stratton) Linda Gamble (/wiki/Linda_Gamble_(model)) Christa Speck (/wiki/Christa_Speck) June Cochran (/wiki/June_Cochran) Donna Michelle (/wiki/Donna_Michelle) Jo Collins (/wiki/Jo_Collins) Allison Parks (/wiki/Allison_Parks) Lisa Baker (/wiki/Lisa_Baker_(model)) Angela Dorian (/wiki/Victoria_Vetri) Connie Kreski (/wiki/Connie_Kreski) 1970s Claudia Jennings (/wiki/Claudia_Jennings) Sharon Clark (/wiki/Sharon_Clark) Liv Lindeland (/wiki/Liv_Lindeland) Marilyn Cole (/wiki/Marilyn_Cole) Cyndi Wood (/wiki/Cynthia_Wood) Marilyn Lange (/wiki/Marilyn_Lange) Lillian Müller (/wiki/Lillian_M%C3%BCller) Patti McGuire (/wiki/Patti_McGuire) Debra Jo Fondren (/wiki/Debra_Jo_Fondren) Monique St. Pierre (/wiki/Monique_St._Pierre) 1980s Dorothy Stratten (/wiki/Dorothy_Stratten) Terri Welles (/wiki/Terri_Welles) Shannon Tweed Marianne Gravatte (/wiki/Marianne_Gravatte) Barbara Edwards (/wiki/Barbara_Edwards_(model)) Karen Velez (/wiki/Karen_Velez) Kathy Shower (/wiki/Kathy_Shower) Donna Edmondson (/wiki/Donna_Edmondson) India Allen (/wiki/India_Allen) Kimberley Conrad (/wiki/Kimberley_Conrad) 1990s Renee Tenison (/wiki/Renee_Tenison) Lisa Matthews (/wiki/Lisa_Matthews) Corinna Harney (/wiki/Corinna_Harney) Anna Nicole Smith (/wiki/Anna_Nicole_Smith) Jenny McCarthy (/wiki/Jenny_McCarthy) Julie Lynn Cialini (/wiki/Julie_Lynn_Cialini) Stacy Sanches (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_1995#March) Victoria Silvstedt (/wiki/Victoria_Silvstedt) Karen McDougal (/wiki/Karen_McDougal) Heather Kozar (/wiki/Heather_Kozar) 2000s Jodi Ann Paterson (/wiki/Jodi_Ann_Paterson) Brande Roderick (/wiki/Brande_Roderick) Dalene Kurtis (/wiki/Dalene_Kurtis) Christina Santiago (/wiki/Christina_Santiago) Carmella DeCesare (/wiki/Carmella_DeCesare) Tiffany Fallon (/wiki/Tiffany_Fallon) Kara Monaco (/wiki/Kara_Monaco) Sara Jean Underwood (/wiki/Sara_Jean_Underwood) Jayde Nicole (/wiki/Jayde_Nicole) Ida Ljungqvist (/wiki/Ida_Ljungqvist) 2010s Hope Dworaczyk (/wiki/Hope_Dworaczyk) Claire Sinclair (/wiki/Claire_Sinclair) Jaclyn Swedberg (/wiki/Jaclyn_Swedberg) Raquel Pomplun (/wiki/Raquel_Pomplun) Kennedy Summers (/wiki/Kennedy_Summers) Dani Mathers (/wiki/Dani_Mathers) Eugena Washington (/wiki/Eugena_Washington) Brook Power (/wiki/Brook_Power) Nina Daniele (/wiki/List_of_Playboy_Playmates_of_2017#April) Jordan Emanuel (/wiki/Jordan_Emanuel) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/1555269/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000059316182) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/54346958) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJt8k3mjDYmVHVj6vCRxjC) National Spain (http://catalogo.bne.es/uhtbin/authoritybrowse.cgi?action=display&authority_id=XX1169245) France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb140333257) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb140333257) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no00028384) Poland (https://dbn.bn.org.pl/descriptor-details/9810573534605606) Artists MusicBrainz 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Fictional character from the American sitcom Friends Fictional character Monica Geller Friends (/wiki/Friends) character Courteney Cox (/wiki/Courteney_Cox) as Monica Geller First appearance " The Pilot (/wiki/The_Pilot_(Friends)) " (1994) Last appearance " The Last One (/wiki/The_Last_One_(Friends)) " (2004) Created by David Crane (/wiki/David_Crane_(producer)) Marta Kauffman (/wiki/Marta_Kauffman) Portrayed by Courteney Cox (/wiki/Courteney_Cox) In-universe information Full name Monica E. Geller Occupation Chef (/wiki/Chef) at Iridium (seasons 1–2) Waitress (/wiki/Waitress) at Moondance Diner (/wiki/Moondance_Diner) (seasons 2–3) Head chef at Alessandro's (seasons 4–9) Head chef at Javu (seasons 9–10) Family Jack Geller (/wiki/Jack_Geller) (father) Judy Geller (/wiki/Judy_Geller) (mother) Ross Geller (/wiki/Ross_Geller) (brother) Althea (maternal grandmother) Spouse Chandler Bing (/wiki/Chandler_Bing) ( m. 2001) Significant others Richard Burke (/wiki/Richard_Burke_(Friends)) (ex-boyfriend) Pete Becker (ex-boyfriend) Children Jack Bing (/wiki/Jack_Bing) (b. 2004) Erica Bing (/wiki/Erica_Bing) (b. 2004) Relatives Ben Geller (/wiki/Ben_Geller) (nephew) Emma Geller-Green (/wiki/Emma_Geller-Green) (niece) Rachel Green (/wiki/Rachel_Green) (sister-in-law) Sylvia Geller (paternal aunt) Iris Geller (paternal aunt) Cassie Geller (cousin) Nathan (uncle) Phyllis (maternal aunt) Lillian (maternal aunt) Cheryl (aunt) Freddie (uncle) Marilyn (aunt) Frannie (cousin) Religion Cultural Judaism (/wiki/Cultural_Judaism) [1] (#cite_note-1) Nationality American Monica E. Geller [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) [3] (#cite_note-:23-3) (born June 15, 1969) [4] (#cite_note-4) is a fictional character, one of the six main characters (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) who appears on the American sitcom (/wiki/Sitcom) Friends (/wiki/Friends) (1994–2004). Created by David Crane (/wiki/David_Crane_(producer)) and Marta Kauffman (/wiki/Marta_Kauffman) , and portrayed by actress Courteney Cox (/wiki/Courteney_Cox) , Monica appears in all of the show's 236 episodes (/wiki/List_of_Friends_episodes) , from its premiere (/wiki/The_Pilot_(Friends)) in 1994, to its finale (/wiki/The_Last_One_(Friends)) in 2004. A chef known for her cleanliness, competitiveness and obsessive-compulsive (/wiki/Obsessive%E2%80%93compulsive_disorder) nature, Monica is the younger sister of Ross Geller (/wiki/Ross_Geller) and best friend of Rachel Green (/wiki/Rachel_Green) , the latter of whom she invites to live with her after Rachel forsakes her own wedding. The two characters spend several years living together as roommates until Monica begins a romantic relationship with long-time neighbor and friend Chandler Bing (/wiki/Chandler_Bing) , whom she marries. Unable to conceive children (/wiki/Infertility) on their own, Chandler and Monica eventually adopt twins Erica and Jack and move out of their apartment into a larger house in the suburbs. The creators' first choice for the role of Monica was comedienne Janeane Garofalo (/wiki/Janeane_Garofalo) . Cox had originally been offered the role of Rachel but declined in favor of playing the character's best friend Monica because she was drawn to her strong personality. Meanwhile, the role of Rachel went to actress Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) . Before Friends aired, Monica's characterization was greatly debated among writers in regards to the character sleeping with someone on their first date during the pilot. Kauffman in particular greatly defended Monica, arguing with NBC executive Don Ohlmeyer (/wiki/Don_Ohlmeyer) over whether or not this would make the character too promiscuous (/wiki/Promiscuity) . Ultimately, the episode aired unchanged after the studio surveyed the audience, the results of which returned in favor of Monica's existing storyline. The character's struggles with childhood obesity (/wiki/Childhood_obesity) , challenges with romantic relationships and complicated relationship with her mother (/wiki/Judy_Geller) would eventually become popular staples of the show. Several months before Friends premiered, NBC had conducted a research report (/wiki/Research_report) , the results of which determined that Monica was the only character to have been remotely well received by test audiences (/wiki/Test_audience) . When Friends first aired, critics initially perceived Monica – who was immediately established as the show's " mother hen (/wiki/Codependency) " – and Cox as the series' main character and star, respectively. Critics have been largely receptive towards both Cox and her character; the Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) holds Cox's acting responsible for disproving the stigma (/wiki/Social_stigma) that attractive women are incapable of delivering comedic performances. Revered as a television icon, Monica famously addressed several topics that were rarely discussed in prime time television (/wiki/Prime_time) at the time, including safe sex (/wiki/Safe_sex) , casual sex (/wiki/Casual_sex) , and age disparity in relationships (/wiki/Age_disparity_in_sexual_relationships) . Despite garnering positive reviews for her performance, Cox is the only main cast member never to have been nominated for an Emmy Award (/wiki/Emmy_Award) during Friends ' ten-year run. Characterization [ edit ] A hardworking chef [5] (#cite_note-:11-5) [6] (#cite_note-:61-6) Monica is introduced in the pilot (/wiki/The_Pilot_(Friends)) as one of five close-knit friends who live in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , including her older brother Ross (/wiki/Ross_Geller) ( David Schwimmer (/wiki/David_Schwimmer) ), neighbors Joey (/wiki/Joey_Tribbiani) ( Matt LeBlanc (/wiki/Matt_LeBlanc) ) and Chandler (/wiki/Chandler_Bing) ( Matthew Perry (/wiki/Matthew_Perry) ), and former roommate Phoebe (/wiki/Phoebe_Buffay) ( Lisa Kudrow (/wiki/Lisa_Kudrow) ). [7] (#cite_note-:39-7) When her privileged, inexperienced childhood best friend Rachel (/wiki/Rachel_Green) ( Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) ), with whom she had long lost contact, suddenly arrives in her neighborhood unannounced as a runaway bride after abandoning her own wedding, Monica allows her to move in with her while she attempts to reorganize her life, and the two reconnect. Monica's catchphrase is "I know!" Relationships [ edit ] Richard Burke Monica begins dating Dr. Richard Burke (/wiki/Richard_Burke_(Friends)) ( Tom Selleck (/wiki/Tom_Selleck) ), an older man who is also one of her father's best friends and 21 years her senior, during season 2. [8] (#cite_note-:57-8) [9] (#cite_note-:66-9) However, the couple mutually agree to end their relationship after realizing that Richard does not want children, [10] (#cite_note-:70-10) his own having already grown up (and had children of their own), while Monica aspires to eventually raise a family of her own one day. [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) Monica and Richard have a hard time moving on from their relationship, and after running into each other a few months later, start a supposedly casual sexual relationship. However, they quickly admit they are still fundamentally incompatible, and part ways again. In the season six finale, Richard returns and professes his love for Monica, and tells her he wants her back, and wants to have children with her. Since Chandler had been pretending to never want marriage in order for his proposal to be a surprise, Monica considers getting back together with Richard. Chandler confronts Richard, and Richard encourages Chandler to go after Monica, and to never let her go. Chandler Bing While in England attending Ross' second wedding, to Emily (/wiki/Emily_Waltham) ( Helen Baxendale (/wiki/Helen_Baxendale) ), Monica sleeps with Chandler. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Initially supposed to have been a casual, one-time thing which grew more recurrent, Monica and Chandler eventually develop feelings for each other, but attempt to conceal it from their friends for as long as possible. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Once their relationship is finally out in the open, they often deal with Chandler's relationship issues. He hasn't had much experience with women, and he has commitment issues, both of which cause problems. He is also shown being nervous about Monica's obvious desire to be a mother. Over time however, Chandler grows to be a good partner for Monica. The relationship started with Monica being the more mature (when it comes to relationships) person, but Chandler changes to become the steady person, a great foil for Monica's neuroses. They eventually move in together and later marry. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) After several failed attempts to conceive a child of their own, Monica and Chandler discover that they are both infertile (/wiki/Infertility) , [12] (#cite_note-:58-12) and ultimately settle upon adoption as an alternative, deciding to adopt the yet-to-be-born child of expectant single mother Erica (/wiki/Erica_(Friends)) ( Anna Faris (/wiki/Anna_Faris) ). The couple is very much surprised when Erica gives birth to twins, and name the boy Jack after Monica's father, and the girl Erica after her birth mother. At the series end, Chandler, Monica, and the twins leave the New York City apartment for a house in Westchester. Development [ edit ] Conception and writing [ edit ] Television writers David Crane (/wiki/David_Crane_(producer)) and Marta Kauffman (/wiki/Marta_Kauffman) originally pitched Friends as a show about "that special time in your life when your friends are your family" [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) to then- NBC (/wiki/NBC) president Warren Littlefield (/wiki/Warren_Littlefield) shortly after their short-lived sitcom Family Album (/wiki/Family_Album_(1993_TV_series)) was canceled by CBS (/wiki/CBS) . [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) Inspired by their own experiences as young adults living in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , the writers loosely based the six main characters on some of their own friends and family; [14] (#cite_note-14) Monica is based on Kauffman herself. [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) Observing that each main character was originally written as a "one-note stereotype", Jonathan Bernstein of The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) identified Monica as the group's "uptight fun-killer". [15] (#cite_note-:46-15) When Friends first aired, the majority of its earliest episodes revolved around Monica, [7] (#cite_note-:39-7) via whom each character appears to be interconnected; Friends stars the character's brother, her best friend, her former roommate and her two neighbors socializing in Monica's apartment. [7] (#cite_note-:39-7) In the pilot, Monica is dumped almost immediately after sleeping with her new date Paul on the night of their first date. Monica is tricked into bed with him after Paul lies to her about his sex life (/wiki/Sex_life) , falsely alleging that he has not slept with anyone in the two years since his wife left him. [16] (#cite_note-16) At first, NBC executives worried that audiences would react to Monica's role unfavorably, thus they decided to survey the studio audience (/wiki/Studio_audience) and ask them whether or not they thought that having Monica sleep with someone on their first date made her character too promiscuous (/wiki/Promiscuity) . [17] (#cite_note-:13-17) Don Ohlmeyer (/wiki/Don_Ohlmeyer) , then-president of NBC's west coast division, was particularly adamant about his stance against Monica's role in the pilot, which he considered " casual sex (/wiki/Casual_sex) ". [18] (#cite_note-18) Kauffman recalled Ohlmeyer specifically expressing that Monica deserved to be dumped, a statement by which the writer was greatly offended, [19] (#cite_note-19) dismissing Ohlmeyer as a misogynist (/wiki/Misogynist) . [20] (#cite_note-20) Ultimately, the results returned in favor of Monica; audiences liked the character nonetheless, and the episode aired unchanged. [17] (#cite_note-:13-17) Early in the series, Monica's apartment is established as one of the show's two primary locations. [21] (#cite_note-:3-21) In the pilot, the apartment number is 5, which was changed to 20 in subsequent episodes after the writers determined that Monica actually lived on a much higher floor. [22] (#cite_note-:20-22) Season three's " The One Where No One's Ready (/wiki/The_One_Where_No_One%27s_Ready) " takes place entirely in Monica's apartment because the show's budget was not large enough to accommodate additional sets or guest stars at that time. [23] (#cite_note-:24-23) In the series finale, Phoebe certifies that each character shared Monica's apartment at least one point during their lives. [24] (#cite_note-:28-24) Relationship with Chandler Bing [ edit ] Andrew Harrison of The New Republic (/wiki/The_New_Republic) believes that the writers deliberately broke up any main character who was approaching a borderline life-changing relationship because "The ones the Friends were really meant to be with were, after all, the other Friends". [25] (#cite_note-:45-25) Because Monica and Joey were initially conceived as the show's two most sexual characters, Crane and Kauffman had originally intended for them to be the show's main couple, before ultimately replacing them with Ross and Rachel. [17] (#cite_note-:13-17) The idea of Monica and Joey was abandoned once the role of Joey was cast; actor Matt LeBlanc (/wiki/Matt_LeBlanc) approached his character using much more of a "big brother vibe" in terms of Joey's relationship with Cox's character as opposed to a romantic one, which the writers ultimately preferred. [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) According to Allison Piwowarski of Bustle (/wiki/Bustle_(magazine)) , Monica and Joey's relationship would have greatly altered the trajectory of the entire series, having life-changing effects on its characters. [26] (#cite_note-26) However, there were incidents on the show referencing a possible intimate relationship between the two, such as Monica's initial attraction to Joey when he moved in and Monica's intent to sleep with Joey in London rather than Chandler. Those events proved only to be humorous, nonetheless. Summarizing the role of Monica in the series, Martin Gitlin wrote in his book The Greatest Sitcoms of All Time that while her friends "were ... just out to make the most of their social lives", Monica "sought to keep the others in line" while searching for "Mr. Right", who surprisingly turns out to be close friend Chandler. [27] (#cite_note-27) Several years before Monica and Chandler became romantically involved, Cox once joked in an interview that if her character were to ever have sex with another main character, it would most likely be Chandler. [28] (#cite_note-:33-28) [29] (#cite_note-:25-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) Crane and Kauffman had never intended to pair off Monica and Chandler with each other, and only decided to expand upon the idea of a relationship between the two friends upon realizing that viewers had "fallen in love" with the notion of Monica and Chandler as a couple. [31] (#cite_note-:29-31) According to Robert Bianco of USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) , "Their affair came out of the blue and was supposed to quickly return there — but something in the relationship clicked with viewers." [32] (#cite_note-32) The idea of Monica and Chandler's romantic arc originally surfaced much earlier in the series from writers Scott Silveri (/wiki/Scott_Silveri) and Shana Goldberg-Meehan (/wiki/Shana_Goldberg-Meehan) , who first observed the characters' chemistry in the season two episode " The One Where Ross Finds Out (/wiki/The_One_Where_Ross_Finds_Out) ", in which an idle and unemployed Monica is temporarily acting as Chandler's personal trainer (/wiki/Personal_trainer) . [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) However, Silveri's suggestion was initially vetoed (/wiki/Veto) by the other writers, who felt that it was simply too soon to introduce another main couple to Friends having just recently paired off Ross and Rachel. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Following Ross and Rachel's break up in season three, the writers felt that the timing was just about right to officially introduce Monica and Chandler as a couple, deciding that Friends "can't simply rest on this one [Ross and Rachel] relationship", while believing that Monica and Chandler's would ultimately provide a fun opportunity for the writers to explore brand new storylines. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Silveri and Goldberg-Meehan deliberately intended to keep Monica and Chandler's union "low-key" in order to further differentiate it from Ross and Rachel's, which had been very public. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) In order to get an idea how audiences would react to Monica and Chandler hooking up at Ross and Emily's wedding in London, the scene in which a clearly nude Monica suddenly emerges from under the sheets of Chandler's hotel bed (/wiki/Hotel_bedding) was filmed in front of three separate test audiences, each of whom responded very enthusiastically to the surprise, several months before the episode was actually taped. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Despite the warm reception received from the audience, Silveri and Goldberg-Meehan were at first uncertain as to whether or not they should continue expanding upon their relationship even further, and proceeded with caution by having Monica and Chandler initially keep their relationship hidden from their peers. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Protective of their characters, Cox and Perry shared similar hesitations at first, but ultimately grew to accept Monica and Chandler as a couple. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) The characters' relationship is eventually revealed to their friends in the episode " The One Where Everybody Finds Out (/wiki/The_One_Where_Everybody_Finds_Out) ". [33] (#cite_note-33) While each character very much approves of their union, Monica's parents initially resent their daughter's feelings for Chandler due to an age-old misunderstanding involving Chandler. [34] (#cite_note-:44-34) Bianco observed that "On most shows, linking two main characters like Monica and Chandler would have been an act of desperation." However, "On Friends , it was a stroke of genius that made both characters more appealing while providing a needed diversion from the show's central task: Retaining a romantic equilibrium between Ross and Rachel." [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-:73-36) Monica and Chandler's relationship is the antithesis of Ross and Rachel's because it remained "healthy and strong until the series ended", while the other couple was relentlessly on-and-off (/wiki/On-again,_off-again_relationship) . [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Encyclopedia of Television author Horace Newcomb believes that Monica's feelings for Chandler are responsible for curing the latter's fear of commitment (/wiki/Fear_of_commitment) . [37] (#cite_note-37) Similarly, Slate (/wiki/Slate_(magazine)) writer Ruth Graham observed that "Chandler is painted as a self-loathing loser with women, until he finally snags Monica at the end of Season 4." [38] (#cite_note-38) Meanwhile, Silveri believes that Friends ultimately ran as long as it did due in part to Monica and Chandler's romance, explaining, "if the center of Friends had remained Ross and Rachel, you would've seen a much shorter shelf life for the show"; Monica and Chandler's arc is believed to have extended the series by approximately three years. [11] (#cite_note-:40-11) Crane and Kauffman had always intended to give Monica and Chandler a child. [39] (#cite_note-:56-39) When it finally came time for them to write the finale, the idea of the couple adopting newborn twins was conceived at the last minute simply "for fun". [39] (#cite_note-:56-39) The birth of Monica and Chandler's twins serves as one of the finale's main plots. [40] (#cite_note-40) They were named Jack and Erica – after Monica's father and their birth mother, respectively. [41] (#cite_note-:71-41) The twins are born three minutes and forty-six seconds apart. [42] (#cite_note-42) Although the surprise addition of Monica and Chandler's twins was generally well received, critics questioned the fact that the babies are brought home from the hospital the same day as their delivery [41] (#cite_note-:71-41) [43] (#cite_note-43) Casting [ edit ] Monica is portrayed by American actress Courteney Cox (/wiki/Courteney_Cox) . [44] (#cite_note-44) Crane and Kauffman had originally written the role of Monica with comedienne Janeane Garofalo (/wiki/Janeane_Garofalo) in mind, [45] (#cite_note-:26-45) because they were drawn to her "edgier and snarkier" voice. [45] (#cite_note-:26-45) However, Garofalo turned down the offer. [46] (#cite_note-46) Actress Jami Gertz (/wiki/Jami_Gertz) was also offered the role but declined, [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) while actress Leah Remini (/wiki/Leah_Remini) auditioned for Monica prior to guest starring (/wiki/Guest_appearance) as a pregnant single mother in an early episode. [49] (#cite_note-49) [50] (#cite_note-50) Kristin Davis (/wiki/Kristin_Davis) also auditioned, and later guest starred in the episode "The One with Ross's Library Book". [51] (#cite_note-51) A close competitor for the role of Monica was actress Nancy McKeon (/wiki/Nancy_McKeon) ; [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) Littlefield recalled having greatly enjoyed Cox and McKeon's auditions equally, and left the final decision up to Crane and Kauffman. [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) Ultimately, Cox won the role over McKeon because the creators noticed "something fresh" in her audition; [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) Kauffman elaborated that Cox ultimately "brought a whole bunch of other colors" to Monica than what they had first envisioned back when they were considering Garofalo for the part. [54] (#cite_note-:27-54) Before being cast as Monica in Friends , Cox was best known for appearing in singer Bruce Springsteen (/wiki/Bruce_Springsteen) 's " Dancing in the Dark (/wiki/Dancing_in_the_Dark_(Bruce_Springsteen_song)) " music video; [15] (#cite_note-:46-15) within the television industry for her recurring role (/wiki/Recurring_role) as Lauren Miller, Alex P. Keaton (/wiki/Alex_P._Keaton) 's girlfriend, on the sitcom Family Ties (/wiki/Family_Ties) ; and Melissa Robinson in the comedy film Ace Ventura: Pet Detective (/wiki/Ace_Ventura:_Pet_Detective) (1994), opposite Jim Carrey (/wiki/Jim_Carrey) . [21] (#cite_note-:3-21) After guest starring on the sitcom Seinfeld (/wiki/Seinfeld) as Meryl, [55] (#cite_note-:21-55) main character Jerry Seinfeld (/wiki/Jerry_Seinfeld_(character)) 's girlfriend, [56] (#cite_note-:15-56) the producers offered Cox the role of Monica's spoiled best friend Rachel because the actress "had this cheery, upbeat energy", which was significantly different from how they had envisioned Monica at the time. [17] (#cite_note-:13-17) Feeling she was not "quirky" enough to portray Rachel, [57] (#cite_note-57) Cox lobbied in favor of playing Monica instead because she was drawn to the character's "strong" personality, [22] (#cite_note-:20-22) but the producers feared that she was not "tough" enough for the role, [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) which was offered to actress Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) , alongside whom Cox would eventually co-star. [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) Meanwhile, Aniston ultimately won the role of Rachel. [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) Each main cast member auditioned for Friends having had some degree of prior sitcom experience. [59] (#cite_note-59) Before finally being cast in Friends , Cox's burgeoning success as an actress had heavily relied on her physical appearance. [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) Unlike her previous roles in projects such as Family Ties and Ace Ventura: Pet Detective , the Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) Steve Weinstein believes that Monica was the first major role in which Cox was cast based on her abilities as a comedic actress as opposed to her beauty. [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) Cox believes that she owes winning the role to her brief stint as Gabriella Easden on the short-lived sitcom The Trouble with Larry (/wiki/The_Trouble_with_Larry) , which she considers to be the first time she played a character who "was the funny one", which in turn earned the actress a recommendation for Friends following its cancellation. [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) When Friends premiered, Cox was the show's most famous main cast member among a cast of young, relatively unknown actors, and was thus initially perceived by critics and audiences as the show's star, [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) despite Crane and Kauffman's efforts to promote Friends as an ensemble comedy (/wiki/Ensemble_cast) . [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) According to actress Lisa Kudrow (/wiki/Lisa_Kudrow) , who portrays Phoebe, Cox is responsible for suggesting that the entire cast work together as a team. [54] (#cite_note-:27-54) As the most experienced cast member at the time, Cox advised her co-stars to remain open to each other's ideas, notes and suggestions, while giving them permission to tell her "If I could do anything funnier". [54] (#cite_note-:27-54) Cox was originally the highest-paid cast member. [61] (#cite_note-61) Preferring to be treated as equals, the entire cast negotiated for universal salaries, demanding that Warner Bros. accommodate their request of $100,000 per episode in season three, increased from their original inaugural season salary of $22,000 per episode. [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) At one point, the actors went as far as threatening to boycott their own show should their demands be denied, [62] (#cite_note-62) temporarily refusing to renew their expired contracts. [63] (#cite_note-63) The studio eventually complied, and by season 10 each actor was being paid $1 million per episode, [29] (#cite_note-:25-29) making Cox and her female co-stars the highest-paid television actresses of all time. [64] (#cite_note-64) Cox was 29 years old at the time she was cast, making her the show's second oldest main cast member, [3] (#cite_note-:23-3) and was 39 by the beginning of Friends ' final season. [65] (#cite_note-65) Additionally, this distinction makes Cox older than her on-screen brother, actor David Schwimmer (/wiki/David_Schwimmer) , who portrays her older brother Ross, [23] (#cite_note-:24-23) who is one year her senior. [66] (#cite_note-:62-66) The actress would deliver Monica's lines emphatically. [67] (#cite_note-:67-67) Although each character is depicted as an avid coffee drinker, spending much of their free time in a coffee house, Cox herself does not drink coffee, and was only pretending to drink it out of mugs on the show. [68] (#cite_note-:74-68) Kauffman believes that Cox's own cleanliness closely resembles her character's; at times the actress would clean her co-stars' dressing rooms (/wiki/Changing_room) . [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) Cox also shares the character's motherly nature. [69] (#cite_note-:32-69) The actress enjoyed portraying Monica as she was able to "bring more of my own personality to her, and I've never really been able to do that before." [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) Starpulse.com observed that "As Monica, Cox never quite enjoyed the sort of watercooler storylines that co-star ... Jennifer Aniston had with David Schwimmer as the on-again, off-again Rachel and Ross." [70] (#cite_note-:35-70) At one point, Cox had begun to regret her decision to accept the role of Monica over Rachel due to the character's lack of strong storylines; she eventually relented once Monica and Chandler became romantically involved, thus her character's storylines gradually began to improve. [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) Cox married actor David Arquette (/wiki/David_Arquette) in 1999 while the show was on hiatus between seasons five and six, hence the actress legally changed her full name to Courteney Cox Arquette. [24] (#cite_note-:28-24) The opening credits of the season six premiere " The One After Vegas (/wiki/The_One_After_Vegas) " features an inside joke (/wiki/In-joke) in which Cox's new surname "Arquette" is attached to the surnames of each cast and crew member. [24] (#cite_note-:28-24) The episode is dedicated to Cox and Arquette, reading, "For Courteney and David, who did get married." [22] (#cite_note-:20-22) Before marrying Cox, Arquette had guest starred in an episode of Friends as Phoebe's love interest. [29] (#cite_note-:25-29) During season 10, Cox got pregnant with her and Arquette's child. [71] (#cite_note-:59-71) At that same time, her character and on-screen husband were going through the process of adopting a child. [71] (#cite_note-:59-71) Like Monica and Chandler, Cox and Arquette had also struggled with conceiving in real life. [12] (#cite_note-:58-12) [68] (#cite_note-:74-68) Although Kudrow's real-life pregnancy had successfully been written into the show, [31] (#cite_note-:29-31) the same could not have been done for Cox because Friends had already long-established that Monica is incapable of having children. [72] (#cite_note-:42-72) Therefore, the crew attempted to conceal Cox's pregnancy using a combination of baggy, loose-fitting costumes and props instead. [22] (#cite_note-:20-22) However, at times the actress' growing belly was still detectable by viewers in spite of the crew's best efforts. [72] (#cite_note-:42-72) [73] (#cite_note-73) Characterization and themes [ edit ] Codependency and neuroticism [ edit ] At the beginning of season one, Monica is 25 years old. [74] (#cite_note-:10-74) Rita Loiacono of SheKnows Media (/wiki/SheKnows_Media) believes Monica was the show's most fully realized character from the beginning of the series because her "quirks were developed to a tee." [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) Like several strong female sitcom characters (/wiki/Strong_female_character) popular throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Monica possesses a natural maternal instinct, constantly "vocalising a desire for motherhood." [75] (#cite_note-75) As the group's "unofficial den mother", [76] (#cite_note-76) Monica fulfills the role of their mother hen (/wiki/Codependency) , [77] (#cite_note-77) and is thus often perceived as the most level-headed member of the sextet, with Ken Parish Perkins of the Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) identifying Monica as the show's most grounded character. [78] (#cite_note-:4-78) Jill O'Rourke of Crushable described her as "the glue that held the group together." [67] (#cite_note-:67-67) [79] (#cite_note-:48-79) Ken Tucker (/wiki/Ken_Tucker) of Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) believes that Monica serves as "the solid center in a circle of wacky pals" due to her "sunny" personality, combined with the fact that she maintains a steady job while appearing to possess the most common sense (/wiki/Common_sense) . [80] (#cite_note-:2-80) Furthermore, Tucker identified Monica as the show's " straight woman (/wiki/Straight_man) ". [80] (#cite_note-:2-80) Writing for The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , John J. O'Connor (/wiki/John_J._O%27Connor_(journalist)) believes that Monica exhibits "the strongest ties to reality" as the sitcom's most realistically portrayed character. [81] (#cite_note-81) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle_(magazine)) 's James Tison agreed that Monica is the show's most relatable character. [67] (#cite_note-:67-67) Referring to Monica as one-half of the series' "head friends", the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette's (/wiki/Pittsburgh_Post-Gazette) Robert Bianco described the character as sensible, explaining that she and brother Ross represent "the relatively stable centers around which the other friends rotate." [82] (#cite_note-:8-82) Describing her as "ultra-competent", Natural Living Today ' s Emily Nussbaum likened Monica to the fairy tale character Snow White (/wiki/Snow_White) , on whose homemaking (/wiki/Homemaking) skills the five other main characters heavily rely, similar to the relationship between Snow White and the seven dwarfs. [83] (#cite_note-83) Although Monica began Friends as the show's straight person, the writers eventually made her funnier by incorporating aspects of Cox's own personality into the character, in addition to writing wittier material for her. [84] (#cite_note-:22-84) Identified by Ayn Bernos of Thought Catalog (/wiki/Thought_Catalog) as "the epitome of a ... control freak (/wiki/Control_freak) ", [85] (#cite_note-:65-85) Refinery29's (/wiki/Refinery29) Kelsey Miller summarized Monica's personality as funny, uptight, loving, and competitive. [86] (#cite_note-:17-86) A very organized character with a signature Type A personality (/wiki/Type_A_and_Type_B_personality_theory) [79] (#cite_note-:48-79) who enjoys being in charge, [87] (#cite_note-87) Monica is known for being a "neat freak" obsessed with cleanliness – [88] (#cite_note-88) especially when it comes to maintaining the impeccable condition of her apartment – [89] (#cite_note-:36-89) neurotic, [90] (#cite_note-90) extremely obsessive-compulsive, and competitive in nature, [91] (#cite_note-91) [92] (#cite_note-:7-92) [93] (#cite_note-:6-93) personality traits that are exaggerated for humor and comic relief (/wiki/Comic_relief) ; [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) [94] (#cite_note-:63-94) the writers did not begin to take full comedic advantage of Monica's neuroses until the show's first Thanksgiving episode. [94] (#cite_note-:63-94) The character is also the loudest of her friends. [67] (#cite_note-:67-67) In her book Writing With Emotion, Tension, and Conflict: Techniques for Crafting an Expressive and Compelling Novel , author Cheryl St. John wrote that Monica exhibits qualities commonly associated with perfectionism (/wiki/Perfectionism_(psychology)) and bossiness. [93] (#cite_note-:6-93) James Tison of Bustle (/wiki/Bustle_(magazine)) wrote that Monica's cleanliness and bossiness often relinquishes her to being "the lame one" among her friends, although "she proved that sometimes rules and responsibility were important". [67] (#cite_note-:67-67) However, the Los Angeles Times ' Steve Weinstein observed that Monica's actions often tend to contradict her "Miss Perfect" image and reputation, explaining that the character frequently "makes a fool of herself" in addition to being "so compulsively neat that just her facial expressions of discomfort at one of her friends' messing things up in her apartment is enough to provoke genuine chuckles." [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) Although several of Monica's personality traits and mannerisms make the character a strong candidate for obsessive-compulsive disorder (/wiki/Obsessive%E2%80%93compulsive_disorder) , they are treated as "quirky and amusing" as opposed to a disability or disease; her friends either ignore or find humor in her peculiarities. [94] (#cite_note-:63-94) As creator and writer, Kauffman confirmed that Monica's extremely organized personality is based on her own, explaining, "I have a lot of Monica in me, in terms of everything having to be a certain way." [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) Writing about the development of Monica's personality in USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) , Robert Bianco observed that the character gradually evolves from "the caring, nurturing mother figure ... into a slightly off-the-beam benevolent monarch." [95] (#cite_note-95) By the show's final season, Monica's personality has been "exacerbated for comedy" to the point of which she becomes borderline "cartoonish". [96] (#cite_note-:47-96) Family and childhood; career and love life [ edit ] Monica has a complicated relationship with her parents Jack (/wiki/Jack_Geller) ( Elliott Gould (/wiki/Elliott_Gould) ) and Judy Geller (/wiki/Judy_Geller) ( Christina Pickles (/wiki/Christina_Pickles) ), [74] (#cite_note-:10-74) particularly with her "hypercritical" mother. [97] (#cite_note-:53-97) [98] (#cite_note-98) Entertainment Weekly called the character's relationship with her parents "esteem-sucking". [74] (#cite_note-:10-74) Judy constantly criticizes her daughter's appearance, career and love life, [99] (#cite_note-99) while acting much kinder towards Ross, whom she favors. [97] (#cite_note-:53-97) Chelsea Mize of Bustle observed that Monica and Ross' "wacky quirks become all the more understandable after ... seeing them with their parents." [100] (#cite_note-100) Encyclopedia of Television Shows, 1925 through 2010 author Vincent Terrance believes that Monica's competitive nature originates from having grown up constantly competing with Ross. [5] (#cite_note-:11-5) Kriti Tulsiani of IBNLive (/wiki/IBNLive) described Monica and Ross' relationship as "A blend of love and sibling jealousy with an urge to irritate each other to the deepest core of existence", with Ross often making fun of his sister's weight and Monica teasing him about his several failed marriages in return. [66] (#cite_note-:62-66) In terms of ethnicity, Crane confirmed that both Monica and Ross are half- Jewish (/wiki/Jews) , with their father being Jewish and their mother being of non-Jewish European ancestry. [101] (#cite_note-:16-101) However, Television's Changing Image of American Jews categorized Monica as a "masked" Jew, explaining that "the smart, funny, and insecure Ross seems more Jewish" than Monica, who the author dismissed as " china-doll (/wiki/China_doll) like" in appearance and demeanor. [101] (#cite_note-:16-101) In his book Encyclopedia of American Jewish History, Volume 1 , author Stephen Harlan Norwood agrees that, unlike the show's male Jews, Monica's Jewish "markers" have been virtually removed. [102] (#cite_note-102) Actress Christina Pickles (/wiki/Christina_Pickles) portrays Monica's hypercritical mother, Judy Geller (/wiki/Judy_Geller) . Although Monica and Rachel have remained best friends since high school, they are very much opposites. [103] (#cite_note-:38-103) While both characters share similar economic backgrounds, they grew up on "different ends of the high school social order", with Rachel being a popular cheerleader and Monica "deal[ing] with body and control issues due to being an overweight child and teen." [103] (#cite_note-:38-103) Sabienna Bowman of This Was TV observed that "Monica's struggles ultimately left her more confident than Rachel, as well as more prepared for adulthood." [103] (#cite_note-:38-103) Among her defining qualities, [103] (#cite_note-:38-103) Monica has had a passion for cooking ever since childhood, stemming from when she received her first Easy-Bake Oven (/wiki/Easy-Bake_Oven) . [5] (#cite_note-:11-5) A chef, the character has had several cooking-related jobs throughout the series, [5] (#cite_note-:11-5) having worked at five different restaurants, [104] (#cite_note-:72-104) a trend that nearly coincides with her constant rotation of boyfriends in an ongoing search for the "perfect match". [105] (#cite_note-:37-105) Michael Hogan of The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) believes that the character's "competitive, perfectionist, obsessive-compulsive nature made her ideally suited to a career as a chef." [104] (#cite_note-:72-104) However, in an episode where Monica goes through great lengths to impress her neighbors with her candy-making skills, it is revealed that Monica might have originally pursued cooking to get people to like her. In addition, her love of cooking and food is also responsible for her having been extremely overweight (/wiki/Overweight) as a child, throughout high school and college. [5] (#cite_note-:11-5) [106] (#cite_note-:18-106) The running gag (/wiki/Running_gag) of an overweight Monica is often used as a recurring backstory (/wiki/Backstory) for the character throughout the series, [107] (#cite_note-:41-107) first explored in the second-season episode " The One With the Prom Video (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Prom_Video) " via flashback (/wiki/Flashback_episode) . [34] (#cite_note-:44-34) [108] (#cite_note-:12-108) One of the character's childhood nicknames was "Big Fat Goalie" when she played field hockey (/wiki/Field_hockey) . [109] (#cite_note-109) While overweight, Monica is depicted as having very low self-esteem, binge eating (/wiki/Binge_eating) often, and constantly seeking attention. [106] (#cite_note-:18-106) While in college, Monica is embarrassed into losing weight permanently after overhearing her then-crush Chandler make fun of her appearance. [110] (#cite_note-110) Media and the Rhetoric of Body Perfection: Cosmetic Surgery, Weight Loss and Beauty in Popular Culture author Dr. Deborah Harris-Moore believes that Monica's tendency to come off as a control freak (/wiki/Control_freak) originates from her childhood struggles with weight gain, explaining that the character ate excessively in order "to cope with her emotions". [111] (#cite_note-111) Possessing a very strong will, the character tends to exhibit outstanding perseverance when it comes to what she expects out of her relationships, jobs, and life in general, oftentimes refusing to settle for anything less than what satisfies her. [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) Early in the series, Monica develops a reputation for experiencing bad luck and encountering rather unfortunate circumstances when it comes to dating, romantic relationships, and her love life. Nick at Nite (/wiki/Nick_at_Nite) joked that the character "likes to keep things tidy in her home and love life, although the latter is a bit more difficult." [6] (#cite_note-:61-6) This motif is frequently explored as a source of comic relief; [78] (#cite_note-:4-78) the character's friends would often "pick apart" her new dates and boyfriends. [74] (#cite_note-:10-74) In his review of the series, David Hiltbrand of People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) referred to the character as "an unlucky-in-love codependent (/wiki/Codependent) ", [112] (#cite_note-:5-112) while the Chicago Tribune ' s Ken Parish Perkins observed that Monica "often misfires when shooting for Mr. Right." [78] (#cite_note-:4-78) According to Mike D'Avria of Splitsider (/wiki/Splitsider) , Monica "never shied away from jumping into the sac with both random guys and people she worked with" – among them a high school senior, an old high school crush, and an alcoholic – prior to dating Chandler, and of the show's six main characters maintains the highest total of serious relationships (/wiki/Serious_relationship) . [113] (#cite_note-113) Cox described Monica as goofy, angry, and sarcastic, while referring to her as the show's most sexually active character despite her "goody two shoes" image. [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) Out of Friends ' female characters, Monica's style took the longest to establish. [114] (#cite_note-:49-114) InStyle (/wiki/InStyle) wrote that Monica's combination of short, wavy hair and dark lipstick evoked "a '90s take on '40s style." [115] (#cite_note-:54-115) Ashley Hoffman of Styleite (/wiki/Dan_Abrams) believes that her character initially "dressed like a tourist trying to look like a New Yorker", frequently sporting jeans, overalls, and cargo shorts (/wiki/Cargo_shorts) . [116] (#cite_note-:50-116) With a wardrobe comprising dresses and pants equally, Monica's fashion sense, much like Rachel and Phoebe's, "was a little bit normcore (/wiki/Normcore) , a little bit corporate-casual (/wiki/Corporate_casual) ." [117] (#cite_note-117) Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) 's Mahalia Chang observed that Monica did not follow trends of the time as much as Rachel, preferring to boast mom jeans, "boxy" sweaters, sneakers and flannels. Critical reception [ edit ] Four months before its premiere, Friends failed NBC's confidential research report (/wiki/Research_report) , which cited the unlikeability of its six main characters as a possible factor. [118] (#cite_note-118) Although the report acknowledged Monica as the only character with whom test audiences (/wiki/Test_audience) identified somewhat positively, [119] (#cite_note-119) NBC admitted that reception towards the character was "well below desirable levels for a lead" nonetheless. [25] (#cite_note-:45-25) In retrospect (/wiki/Retrospective) , The New Republic's (/wiki/The_New_Republic) Andrew Harrison believes that although Monica and her friends "were superficial, self-absorbed and at first difficult to like ... in their solipsism and neurosis they reflected and sent up the world emerging around them ... far more accurately than any conventional gooey-hearted family sitcom", ultimately "creat[ing] a coffee-scented cocoon that millions wanted to enter". [25] (#cite_note-:45-25) Reviews gradually improved; [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) an early critical evaluation of Friends , which had pegged Cox as the show's star, read, "As Monica, [Cox] came across as charming, attractive, confident, and motivated – the leader of the group". [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) While men found the actress attractive, women appreciated her sense of humor. [58] (#cite_note-:34-58) When Friends premiered in September 1994, critics initially perceived Monica as the show's main character; Entertainment Weekly's (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) Ken Tucker (/wiki/Ken_Tucker) attributes this to the fact that Cox was the show's most famous cast member at the time. [80] (#cite_note-:2-80) The actress has garnered largely positive reviews for her performance, with Tucker concluding that Cox "plays straight woman ... with alluring modesty". [80] (#cite_note-:2-80) Tony Scott of Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) commended the entire cast for "appear[ing] resourceful and display[ing] sharp sitcom skills ... especially Cox", [120] (#cite_note-120) while The Baltimore Sun's (/wiki/The_Baltimore_Sun) David Zurawik (/wiki/David_Zurawik) described her acting as "terrific". [21] (#cite_note-:3-21) John Kiesewetter of The Cincinnati Enquirer (/wiki/The_Cincinnati_Enquirer) praised Cox's ability to "deliver both verbal and physical comedy". [121] (#cite_note-121) Contactmusic.com (/wiki/Contactmusic.com) 's Sophie Miskiw commended Cox for portraying Monica with "endearing neurosis (/wiki/Neurosis) ". [122] (#cite_note-:31-122) As a character, Lifetime (/wiki/Lifetime_(TV_network)) described Monica as "neurotic yet lovable". [123] (#cite_note-123) Bustle 's Emma Lord wrote, "I can't imagine why anyone wouldn't want to be Monica Geller", describing her as a "smart" and "savvy" character. [124] (#cite_note-Lord-124) Despite admitting that Monica is "probably not our favourite character", TalkTalk (/wiki/TalkTalk_Group) conceded that she is "wonderfully neurotic", [125] (#cite_note-125) while Nick at Nite (/wiki/Nick_at_Nite) reviewed her as "just as lovable as she is neurotic", despite her overbearing personality. [6] (#cite_note-:61-6) Howard Rosenberg of the Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) was receptive towards the entire cast, especially Cox and her character, who he described as "strong" and "likable and funny". [126] (#cite_note-126) Also writing for the Los Angeles Times , Glenn Whipp lauded Cox's tenure on Friends , enthusing that the actress successfully "took a character loaded with obsessive-compulsive quirks and a goofy, overly competitive nature and fashioned a flesh-and-blood woman". [92] (#cite_note-:7-92) Describing the actress' comic timing (/wiki/Comic_timing) as "impeccable", Whipp went on to write that Cox "brought out Monica's insecurities in a way that turned self-deprecation (/wiki/Self-deprecation) into an art form". [92] (#cite_note-:7-92) Jenna Mullins of E! (/wiki/E!) dubbed Cox "a fantastic comedic actress". [127] (#cite_note-:69-127) Alec Harvey of The Birmingham News (/wiki/The_Birmingham_News) described Monica as a "very, very funny" character. [128] (#cite_note-:43-128) Kayla Upadhyaya of The Michigan Daily (/wiki/The_Michigan_Daily) appreciated the fact that "Cox brought moments of sincerity and severity to Monica". [129] (#cite_note-129) However, The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) panned Cox's performance as "degrading", [130] (#cite_note-130) while Mike Ryan of ScreenCrush dismissed Monica as a "fairly normal, but boring" character. [131] (#cite_note-131) In 1999, Cox was nominated for an American Comedy Award for Funniest Supporting Female Performer in a TV Series (/wiki/American_Comedy_Awards) . [132] (#cite_note-132) [133] (#cite_note-133) Although continuously praised for her performance, Cox never received an Emmy Award (/wiki/Emmy_Award) nomination for her role on Friends during its entire run, although each of her five co-stars did. [134] (#cite_note-134) Both female castmates Lisa Kudrow and Jennifer Aniston remain the show's only main cast members to have won the award, whose multiple nominations Cox especially "had a hard time not taking ... personally", admitting to having been "hurt" by the snub. [135] (#cite_note-:68-135) A number of media outlets cite Cox among several successful television actors whom they believe deserve but are yet to win an Emmy Award. [135] (#cite_note-:68-135) [136] (#cite_note-136) [137] (#cite_note-137) [138] (#cite_note-138) The Academy of Television Arts & Sciences (/wiki/Academy_of_Television_Arts_%26_Sciences) ' failure to acknowledge Cox prompted Jenna Mullins of E! (/wiki/E!) to ask "if Hollywood has something against honoring a fantastic comedic actress like Cox." [127] (#cite_note-:69-127) In 2014, SheKnows Media (/wiki/SheKnows_Media) published an article explaining five reasons author Rita Loiacono believes Monica is "the best character on Friends ", citing her cleanliness, bluntness and role as "the heart of the group", among others. [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) Loiacono enthused that Monica "didn't just have one defining aspect; she had many, and they were all equally hilarious. Not to mention, her ambition and vulnerability resulted in some of the show's most touching and heartbreaking moments". [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) Additionally, Loiacono dismissed the fact that Cox has never received an Emmy Award nomination for her performance as Monica as "downright criminal". [2] (#cite_note-:9-2) In 2015, HitFix (/wiki/HitFix) wrote a similar article entitled "5 Reasons Monica Geller is the Best Friends Friend", published in tandem with Cox's 51 birthday. [139] (#cite_note-139) An article in The Birmingham News (/wiki/The_Birmingham_News) cited " The One Where it All Began (/wiki/The_Pilot_(Friends)) ", " The One With Two Parts: Part 2 (/wiki/The_One_with_Two_Parts_(1)) ", " The One with the Prom Video (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Prom_Video) ", " The One with Chandler in a Box (/wiki/Friends_(season_4)) ", " The One with the Embryos (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Embryos) ", " The One with All the Thanksgivings (/wiki/The_One_with_All_the_Thanksgivings) ", " The One Where Everybody Finds Out (/wiki/Friends_(season_5)) ", " The One On the Last Night (/wiki/Friends_(season_6)) ", " The One with the Proposal (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Proposal) ", " The One with Monica and Chandler's Wedding (/wiki/The_One_with_Monica_and_Chandler%27s_Wedding) " and " The Last One (/wiki/The_Last_One_(Friends)) " among Monica's best episodes; Cox herself acknowledged "The One with the Embryos" as her personal favorite. [128] (#cite_note-:43-128) Meanwhile, BDCwire (/wiki/Boston.com) ranked "The One with the Routine", "The One with the Cheap Wedding Dress", "The One with Monica's Boots", "The One with the Jellyfish" and "The One Where Monica Sings" among the character's best. [140] (#cite_note-140) Despite consistently warm reception towards Cox and her character, some aspects of Monica's characterization have been criticized. The second season (/wiki/Friends_(season_2)) episode " The One Where Dr. Ramoray Dies (/wiki/The_One_Where_Dr._Ramoray_Dies) " sparked controversy due to one of its storylines revolving around Monica and Rachel arguing over which roommate will win the last remaining condom in their apartment in order to have sex with their respective boyfriends, Richard and Ross. [13] (#cite_note-:14-13) In her book Narratives, Health, and Healing: Communication Theory, Research, and Practice , author Lynn M. Harter defended the storyline, arguing that it promotes safe sex (/wiki/Safe_sex) . [141] (#cite_note-:55-141) Rachel eventually wins the condom in a game of rock, paper, scissors (/wiki/Rock,_paper,_scissors) , forcing Monica to abstain for the night. [141] (#cite_note-:55-141) Monica's overweight alter-ego (/wiki/Alter_ego) "Fat Monica" has often been accused of being an offensive stereotype of overweight women exploited for laughs. [106] (#cite_note-:18-106) While identifying a formerly overweight character as "a standard TV trope (/wiki/Trope_(literature)) ", the New Statesman's (/wiki/New_Statesman) Bim Adewunmi (/wiki/Bim_Adewunmi) wrote that Fat Monica "always struck a weird note" with the writer despite the show's efforts "to pinpoint a solid and satisfying back-story for the character". [142] (#cite_note-142) Megan Kirby of xoJane (/wiki/XoJane) questioned the negative effect the show's fat jokes (/wiki/Fat_jokes) would have on its overweight viewers, writing, "What does this mean for the girls like me who never become thin? Are we relegated to side roles and stereotypes in our own lives? Of course, this isn't true. But I think it sometimes, dark and secret: The fat girl doesn't get to be the protagonist." [107] (#cite_note-:41-107) Emma Tarver of Feminspire reflected that Fat Monica "made me think as a child that I was unworthy of love, was going to be mocked relentlessly by my friends and family for my weight, and should never bother flirting because I would just disgust every man I looked at." [106] (#cite_note-:18-106) Contrarily, Kelsey Miller of Refinery29 (/wiki/Refinery29) received Fat Monica positively as "proof I could overcome my disgusting plumpness and be seen as lovable, too". [86] (#cite_note-:17-86) In spite of these complaints, Fat Monica proved so popular among audiences that the writers would resurrect the character for a total of four flashback episodes (/wiki/Flashback_episode) , each of which aired featuring Cox dressed as Fat Monica and eating a doughnut (/wiki/Doughnut) while dancing after the show had finished taping much to the amusement of the studio audience. [86] (#cite_note-:17-86) [108] (#cite_note-:12-108) Although she only appears physically in four, Fat Monica is referenced in approximately half of the show's episodes, [86] (#cite_note-:17-86) and has since proven popular enough to be adapted into an internet meme (/wiki/Internet_meme) . [86] (#cite_note-:17-86) Legacy [ edit ] Impact and commendations [ edit ] According to Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) , the combined popularity of Monica and Cox established them both as television icons during the 1990s. [28] (#cite_note-:33-28) [115] (#cite_note-:54-115) [143] (#cite_note-143) Additionally, baby name (/wiki/List_of_most_popular_given_names) books commonly associate the name "Monica" with the character. [144] (#cite_note-144) As the role in which Cox "found fame", [89] (#cite_note-:36-89) Monica remains the actress' most iconic performance to-date, [55] (#cite_note-:21-55) as well as the role for which she is best known. [145] (#cite_note-145) [146] (#cite_note-146) [147] (#cite_note-147) Us Weekly (/wiki/Us_Weekly) believes that Cox "made television history during her 10 year stint playing Monica". [148] (#cite_note-148) Meanwhile, Steve Weinstein of the Los Angeles Times credits Cox's comedic performance with helping dispel stereotypes that "Pretty women aren't supposed to be funny". [60] (#cite_note-:30-60) In 1995, one year after Friends premiered, Cox appeared on the cover of People's (/wiki/People_(magazine)) " 50 Most Beautiful People (/wiki/50_Most_Beautiful_People) " issue. [56] (#cite_note-:15-56) According to Alabama Biographical Dictionary author Jan Onofrio, Monica helped "put [Cox] in the television spotlight and provided offers for more desirable roles." [149] (#cite_note-149) The Daily News (/wiki/Daily_News_(New_York)) deemed Cox "one of the more successful 'Friends' since the show ended" thanks to her consistent television and film roles. [150] (#cite_note-150) By both starring in and producing the sitcom Cougar Town (/wiki/Cougar_Town) , which has been reviewed as her "best gig since ... Friends ", [151] (#cite_note-151) Cox became the series' first main cast member to achieve long-term television success post- Friends . [152] (#cite_note-152) According to a Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) poll, industry professionals – actors, writers and directors – voted Monica the 47th best fictional female character. [153] (#cite_note-153) ChaCha (/wiki/ChaCha_(search_engine)) collectively ranked Phoebe, Rachel and Monica the 11th, 12th and 13th best female television characters of all time. [154] (#cite_note-:52-154) Maria Tallarico of Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) observed that a number of Monica's storylines, including one in which she unintentionally has sex with a high school senior (/wiki/High_school_senior) , "probably wouldn't fly on TV today". [9] (#cite_note-:66-9) Writing for Mic.com (/wiki/Mic.com) , Samantha Allen believes that Monica helped "set the standard for how sitcoms could and would talk about sex" by both engaging in casual sex (/wiki/Casual_sex) and dating a much older man (/wiki/Age_difference_in_sexual_relationships) . [8] (#cite_note-:57-8) According to Dustin Levy of The Diamondback (/wiki/The_Diamondback) , Monica inspired "any ensemble cast in a sitcom with a female character who is bossy or neurotic", citing Scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(TV_series)) ' Elliot Reid (/wiki/Elliot_Reid) and Happy Endings (/wiki/Happy_Endings_(TV_series)) ' Jane Kerkovich-Williams as examples of Monica's influence. [96] (#cite_note-:47-96) Additionally, Levy identified Claire Dunphy (/wiki/Claire_Dunphy) from the sitcom Modern Family (/wiki/Modern_Family) as Monica's modern-day successor, explaining that the character "acts like Monica plus children". [96] (#cite_note-:47-96) In spring 2015, TV Guide (/wiki/TV_Guide) published an article entitled "22 Spring Cleaning Tips From Monica Geller" in tribute to the character's cleanliness. [155] (#cite_note-155) In her article "5 Signs You're A Real-Life Monica Geller", Ayn Bernos of Thought Catalog (/wiki/Thought_Catalog) identified the character's personality as the reason "all perfectionist fans of this iconic TV show have asked themselves this question at least once in their life: 'Oh my god, am I a Monica Geller?!'" [85] (#cite_note-:65-85) Emma Lord of Bustle (/wiki/Bustle_(magazine)) expounded in her article "13 Signs You Are The Monica Of Your Friend Group" "that isn't to say life is easy for the Real Life Monicas of the world. First, there's all the name calling: 'neat freak' and 'sore loser', to name a few. Second, all of your elaborate, carefully-laid plans inevitably go haywire when people around you don't respect the obvious beauty and rightness of them." [124] (#cite_note-Lord-124) According to Patricia Murphy of the Irish Independent (/wiki/Irish_Independent) , Monica "is most definitely one of the most famous fictional telly chefs", expounding, "her OCD combined with her continuous strive for perfection making her a thoroughly enjoyable watch." [156] (#cite_note-156) The Guardian ranked Monica fifth on the newspaper's list of "The 10 best fictional chefs", [104] (#cite_note-:72-104) while People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) ranked the character eighth, with author Grace Gavilanes writing, "She's the best kind of chef – neurotic in the most entertaining/productive way, and always cleans up the mess in her kitchen." [157] (#cite_note-157) One of the show's main locations, Monica's apartment currently ranks among television's most famous sets. [158] (#cite_note-:51-158) USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) 's Robert Bianco credits Monica and Chandler's relationship and their wedding in the episode " The One With Monica and Chandler's Wedding (/wiki/The_One_with_Monica_and_Chandler%27s_Wedding) " with saving Friends . Prior to the episode, the show had "appeared to be in serious danger of out-staying its welcome." Although admitting that the overall episode "is not one of Friends ' best", Bianco explained that "The wedding changed all that, and in remarkable fashion." [159] (#cite_note-:731-159) While BuzzFeed ranked Monica and Chandler the 23rd best television couple, [160] (#cite_note-160) E! (/wiki/E!) placed the couple second on its ranking of the greatest Friends couples, with author Sydney Bucksbaum writing, "It's hard to imagine a time when Monica and Chandler weren't together, but it took them four seasons to actually get together. From then on, it was clear that they were meant to be." [161] (#cite_note-161) [162] (#cite_note-162) Tim Gerstenberger of TV Overmind (/wiki/TV_Overmind) echoed this sentiment by ranking Chandler Monica's best boyfriend, awarding him an 'A' grade. Gerstenberger penned, "I would not be able to face myself every day if I did not rank Chandler the best of Monica's boyfriends from Friends. The two ended up getting married, which just goes to show that some one night stands are meant to last." [163] (#cite_note-163) Monica and Ross' relationship was also influential. [164] (#cite_note-164) According to Kriti Tulsiani of IBNLive (/wiki/CNN-IBN) , the characters "provide a perfect exception to the myth that one cannot find a best friend in their sibling particularly when they are of opposite sex ... they have broken all the conventional boundaries of a brother-sister relationship." [66] (#cite_note-:62-66) PopSugar (/wiki/PopSugar) ranked Monica and Ross fifth on the website's list of "The 9 Best Sibling Relationships From '90s TV" [165] (#cite_note-165) Immediately established as one of the show's primary settings, [21] (#cite_note-:3-21) Monica's large Greenwich Village (/wiki/Greenwich_Village) apartment has since become one of the most famous and iconic television sets in history. [158] (#cite_note-:51-158) [166] (#cite_note-:64-166) Steffani Cameron of BuildDirect (/wiki/BuildDirect) wrote that Monica's "apartment was unlike anything else on TV. It was full of color, clutter, and personality. It was a space cobbled together of kitsch and class, and it was just magic", citing its windows, color and openness among her favourite things about the apartment. [166] (#cite_note-:64-166) Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) magazine ranked it among the "12 Best Apartments on TV". [158] (#cite_note-:51-158) Chloe Daley of Refinery29 (/wiki/Refinery29) joked that the apartment serves as both "a lesson in how to decorate with purple" and "a lesson in how not to". [167] (#cite_note-167) Based on its total number of bedrooms, open kitchen (/wiki/Open_kitchen) concept, large living space and balcony, real estate agent Sydney Blumstein estimates that the apartment would be worth approximately US$ 2.3 million in 2015. [168] (#cite_note-168) In terms of its size and affordability, the apartment has frequently been the subject of scrutiny; critics constantly question how Monica, a chef, and Rachel, a waitress, were able to afford such a luxurious home based on their relatively low incomes, [169] (#cite_note-169) often dismissing the show's explanation that this is due to an illegal sublet (/wiki/Sublet) courtesy of Monica's grandmother who moved to Florida. [170] (#cite_note-:1-170) [171] (#cite_note-:0-171) Hollywood.com (/wiki/Hollywood.com) 's Abbey Stone ranked it television's 10th "most ridiculous" apartment, [171] (#cite_note-:0-171) while The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) placed it at number four in a similar article. [170] (#cite_note-:1-170) Wardrobe and fashion [ edit ] Friends ' female characters had a profound influence on women's fashion (/wiki/Womenswear) during the 1990s, [114] (#cite_note-:49-114) [154] (#cite_note-:52-154) becoming fashion icons in addition and household names, [172] (#cite_note-172) in addition to inspiring a generation of women. [114] (#cite_note-:49-114) According to Desiree Tolentino of Verge Campus (/wiki/University_of_Nevada_Press) , "Rachel and Monica were THE fashion icons back in the day", writing, "Monica Geller's vivacious style and sex appeal (/wiki/Sexual_attraction) inspires every girl to care just a little bit more about what they wear". [173] (#cite_note-173) TheTalko contributor Taylor Hodgkins agreed that both Rachel "and Monica ... became cultural icons ... due to the fact the characters became fashion icons ... For those of us who thought of ourselves to be fashion mavens, we loved to tune into Friends to see what Monica and Rachel had in their closets week after week." [174] (#cite_note-174) Describing Monica's wardrobe as "classic and elegant", Stylist (/wiki/Stylist_(magazine)) observed that the character's first season bob cut (/wiki/Bob_cut) was imitated by several woman, [114] (#cite_note-:49-114) although its popularity paled in comparison to that of Aniston's iconic " Rachel (/wiki/The_Rachel) " haircut, the widespread success of which Cox was jealous. [175] (#cite_note-175) However, Cosmopolitan identified Monica's hairstyle as "Iconic in its own right", including in its list of "20 iconic Friends hairstyles". [176] (#cite_note-176) Monica also became well known for accessorizing sweaters using scarves; [114] (#cite_note-:49-114) on Cox's 51st birthday in 2015, Cosmopolitan published an article celebrating her character's best sweaters. [177] (#cite_note-177) BuzzFeed (/wiki/BuzzFeed) ranked Monica's wedding dress seventh on the website's list of the "28 TV Show Wedding Dresses You'll Always Envy", [178] (#cite_note-178) while Brides (/wiki/Brides_(magazine)) ranked it the ninth greatest wedding dress in television history. [179] (#cite_note-179) Us Weekly included it on their list of "Celebrity Wedding Dresses: TV & Movies". [180] (#cite_note-180) Lauren Bravo of Grazia (/wiki/Grazia_Daily) wrote that although "It's hard for us to process some of Monica's early outfits ... there's a lot of great stuff to be pilfered from Monica's pleasingly preppy wardrobe", despite its heavy tailoring. [181] (#cite_note-181) Meanwhile, The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) cited several of Monica's outfits and hairstyles among the newspaper's list of "Friends best fashion moments". [182] (#cite_note-182) In recent years, fans' appreciation for Monica's wardrobe has grown following the series' availability on Netflix, with The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) journalist Jess Cartner-Morley (/wiki/Jess_Cartner-Morley) observing that audiences "were all too busy admiring Rachel's hair and Chandler's jokes first time around to notice Monica Geller's love of mom jeans and hair barrettes. But the world has finally caught up with the poster girl for 90s normcore (/wiki/Normcore) ", to the point at which it rivals Rachel's. [183] (#cite_note-:75-183) Crowning her the "unlikely style icon" of summer 2019, Cartner-Morley observed the characters' influence on the outfits of several celebrities, namely Bella Hadid (/wiki/Bella_Hadid) and Harry Styles (/wiki/Harry_Styles) . [184] (#cite_note-184) [183] (#cite_note-:75-183) The writer also coined this revival "The Monaissance" due to the character "unexpectedly [finding] a breakout role as a style icon", and citing the character parting her hair to the side using a barrette (/wiki/Barrette) , ribbed vests, high-waisted mom jeans, pale denim straight-fit jeans and white trainers among fashion trends that have been adopted by modern-day viewers. [183] (#cite_note-:75-183) The newspaper credits Monica's popularity to audience's revived interest in cooking shows. [183] (#cite_note-:75-183) While comparing Styles' fashion choices to Monica's wardrobe, Ben Boskovich of Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) named the character the "most stylish" of Friends ' main characters and "a menswear icon ahead of her time". [185] (#cite_note-185) In 2019, Business Insider (/wiki/Business_Insider) compiled a list of Monica's 16 most iconic outfits, with author Paige Bennett writing "As a professional chef, Monica had to adhere to a strict dress code at work but when the apron came off, Monica donned a sleek yet down-to-earth wardrobe that can still be appreciated today." [186] (#cite_note-186) Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) named Monica "The Best-Dressed Character On 'Friends'" in what Mahalia Chang called a controversial, "potentially-unpopular opinion" as most fans give this designation to Rachel. [187] (#cite_note-187) Odyssey (/wiki/Odyssey_(publication)) contributor Gabrielle Faletto agreed that Monica's clothes won her attention over Rachel's when she started watching the show on Netflix, despite the latter being the established style icon, in her article ranking "10 Monica Geller Outfits That Made Us Fall In Love With 90s Fashion". [188] (#cite_note-:76-188) The writer commended the "simple, yet classy [way] her outfits were or the fact that she can rock a t-shirt and jeans, no matter what the occasion is", coinciding with a revival in 1990s fashion trends. [188] (#cite_note-:76-188) See also [ edit ] List of (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) Friends and (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) Joey characters (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Weber, Lindsey (December 17, 2014). "Friends Countdown: Is Rachel Green Jewish?" (https://www.vulture.com/2014/12/friends-countdown-is-rachel-green-jewish.html) . Vulture (/wiki/Vulture_(website)) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Loiacono, Rita (September 17, 2014). "5 Reasons Monica is, hands down, the best character on Friends" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150710000530/http://www.sheknows.com/entertainment/articles/1050983/reasons-monica-is-hands-down-the-best-character-on-friends) . SheKnows . 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Fictional character from the American sitcom Friends Fictional character Phoebe Buffay Friends (/wiki/Friends) character Lisa Kudrow (/wiki/Lisa_Kudrow) as Phoebe Buffay First appearance " The Pilot (/wiki/The_Pilot_(Friends)) " (1994) Last appearance " The Last One (/wiki/The_Last_One_(Friends)) " (2004) Created by David Crane (/wiki/David_Crane_(producer)) Marta Kauffman (/wiki/Marta_Kauffman) Kevin S. Bright (/wiki/Kevin_S._Bright) Portrayed by Lisa Kudrow (/wiki/Lisa_Kudrow) In-universe information Aliases Phoebe Buffay-Hannigan Regina Phalange Princess Consuela Banana-Hammock Gender Female Occupation Massage therapist (/wiki/Massage_therapist) Musician (/wiki/Musician) Secretary (/wiki/Secretary) Telemarketer (/wiki/Telemarketer) Family Frank Buffay, Sr. (father) Phoebe Abbott (biological mother) Lily Buffay (adoptive mother) Ursula Buffay (twin sister) Frank Buffay, Jr. (paternal half-brother) Alice Knight-Buffay (half-sister-in-law) Spouses Duncan ( m. 1989; div. 1995) Mike Hannigan ( m. 2004) Relatives Frances (adoptive maternal grandmother) Frank Buffay, Jr., Jr. (halph-nephew) Leslie Buffay (half-niece) Chandler Buffay (halph-niece) Religion New Age (/wiki/New_Age) Nationality American Phoebe Buffay (born 16 February 1967/1968) [1] (#cite_note-1) is one of the six main characters (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) from the American television sitcom, Friends (/wiki/Friends) . She was created by David Crane (/wiki/David_Crane_(producer)) and Marta Kauffman (/wiki/Marta_Kauffman) and portrayed by actress Lisa Kudrow (/wiki/Lisa_Kudrow) . In the series' universe, Phoebe was born on February 16 and is the daughter of Frank and Lily Buffay. Her biological mother's name was Phoebe Abbott, whom she was named after. Phoebe has a twin sister, Ursula, a waitress who is also portrayed by Kudrow. Phoebe can speak several languages, including French (/wiki/French_language_in_the_United_States) and Italian (/wiki/Italian_language) . She appeared in all of the show's 236 episodes (/wiki/List_of_Friends_episodes) during its decade-long run, from its premiere on September 22, 1994, to its finale on May 6, 2004. She is a masseuse (/wiki/Masseuse) and musician, notable for her offbeat and extremely ditzy behavior. She was Monica Geller (/wiki/Monica_Geller) 's roommate before Rachel Green (/wiki/Rachel_Green) , which is how she was introduced to the group. Phoebe is best friends with Monica and Rachel, along with their neighbors, Chandler Bing (/wiki/Chandler_Bing) and Joey Tribbiani (/wiki/Joey_Tribbiani) , and also Monica's brother Ross Geller (/wiki/Ross_Geller) . She plays acoustic guitar and sings simple, awkward songs at Central Perk (/wiki/Central_Perk) , occasionally busking also. During the show's ninth season (/wiki/Friends_season_9) , Phoebe is set up on a blind date with Mike Hannigan (played by actor Paul Rudd (/wiki/Paul_Rudd) ) and they eventually marry in the last season. Critical reception towards Phoebe has remained consistently positive throughout Friends' decade-long run. Kudrow received critical acclaim for playing her character, including a Primetime Emmy Award (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award) , a Screen Actors Guild Award (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award) , a Satellite Award (/wiki/Satellite_Award) , an American Comedy Award (/wiki/American_Comedy_Awards) and a TV Guide Award (/wiki/TV_Guide_Award) , as well as a Golden Globe Award (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award) nomination. Phoebe is considered to be Kudrow's breakout role, credited with making her the show's second most famous cast member, after Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) , and for spawning her successful film career. Role [ edit ] In the pilot episode, Phoebe is introduced as one of the six original friends, including her Greenwich Village (/wiki/Greenwich_Village) Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) neighbors Joey (/wiki/Joey_Tribbiani) ( Matt LeBlanc (/wiki/Matt_LeBlanc) ) and Chandler (/wiki/Chandler_Bing) ( Matthew Perry (/wiki/Matthew_Perry) ), former roommate Monica (/wiki/Monica_Geller) ( Courteney Cox (/wiki/Courteney_Cox) ), Rachel Green (/wiki/Rachel_Green) ( Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) ), and Monica's brother, Ross (/wiki/Ross_Geller) ( David Schwimmer (/wiki/David_Schwimmer) ). She is a masseuse and part time, aspiring folk-type musician, who plays dreadnought (/wiki/Dreadnought_guitar) style acoustic guitars and sings very awkward or absurd, self-composed songs. She has been shown busking (/wiki/Busking) in the subway, outside of the gang's usual "hang out" place, Central Perk (/wiki/Central_Perk) , as well as at a public library, and has been seen frequently playing live sets inside the coffee shop. She had moved in with her maternal grandmother ( Audra Lindley (/wiki/Audra_Lindley) ), upon moving out of Monica's apartment, approximately one year before the pilot episode, due to Monica's obsessive compulsive nature and anal-retentive cleaning habits. During the first season, she has myriad boyfriends, including Tony, [2] (#cite_note-2) a physicist (/wiki/Physicist) named David, played by Hank Azaria (/wiki/Hank_Azaria) , [3] (#cite_note-3) and a psychologist (/wiki/Psychologist) named Roger, played by Fisher Stevens (/wiki/Fisher_Stevens) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Phoebe works as a temporary (/wiki/Temporary_work) secretary for Chandler for a brief period of time in "The One with the Ick Factor". Phoebe's crass, identical twin sister, Ursula Buffay (also portrayed by Kudrow), a character originally created for and appearing in the American sitcom (/wiki/Sitcom) Mad About You (/wiki/Mad_About_You) as a waitress, is also introduced in the first season, in "The One with Two Parts". Phoebe is shown to have a very strained relationship with Ursula who is one minute older than her and seems to care little about family affairs or Phoebe, Phoebe nearly always goes home empty-handed and none the wiser. When it is revealed Ursula performs in porn (/wiki/Porn) under Phoebe's name, Phoebe eventually finds some redemption by cashing in Ursula's pay slips. Phoebe's father, Frank Buffay, abandoned the family when Phoebe was a child, and the woman Phoebe believed was her mother, Lily Buffay, committed suicide when Phoebe was about 14, by means of carbon monoxide poisoning (/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_poisoning) . However, Phoebe discovers she has a paternal half-brother Frank, Jr., and later meets her real mother Phoebe Abbott ( Teri Garr (/wiki/Teri_Garr) ), who had given her up for adoption when she was born. In the second season episode, "The One with Phoebe's Husband", it is revealed that Phoebe was legally married to a "hoping to be gay" Canadian ice dancer (/wiki/Ice_dancer) , Duncan ( Steve Zahn (/wiki/Steve_Zahn) ), for six years, to help him acquire his green card. The two divorce (/wiki/Divorce) when he realizes that he is, in fact, heterosexual (/wiki/Heterosexual) , and going to marry another woman. In "The One with the Baby on the Bus", Phoebe is temporarily replaced as the primary singer for Central Perk by a professional singer named Stephanie Schiffer, played by singer Chrissie Hynde (/wiki/Chrissie_Hynde) . [5] (#cite_note-5) Phoebe's song "Smelly Cat" is introduced in the same episode. In "The One Where Eddie Moves In", a record company produces a full budget music video for the song, in which her voice is overdubbed by a much better singer; she turns down her record deal when she discovers the depth of the deception. [6] (#cite_note-6) Although the facets of Phoebe's character are manifold and extremely complex, Phoebe can generally be classified as kind-hearted, but ditzy and whimsical. Due in no small part to her extremely traumatic childhood, Phoebe has developed a child-like naïveté in an attempt to shield herself from the world's evils. In addition to being a vegetarian (/wiki/Vegetarian) and an avid tree hugger (/wiki/Environmentalism) , she also displays a remarkable lack of experience with the "darker sides" of life. In "The One Where Old Yeller Dies", it is shown that her deceased mother Lily would turn off films before a tragic ending, including the death of Old Yeller (/wiki/Old_Yeller) or Bambi (/wiki/Bambi) 's mother being shot. It is also revealed that she was never told the truth about Santa Claus (/wiki/Santa_Claus) . This is made all the more prominent as one of the running jokes of the show is Phoebe's seemingly infinite criminal record. She repeatedly makes reference to her underworld connections and crimes committed while living "on the streets". Much to the dismay of her friends (especially paleontologist Ross), Phoebe dabbles in trendy New Age (/wiki/New_Age) ideas and superstitions (/wiki/Superstition) throughout the series. She is convinced she can feel the presence of her dead grandmother in her old apartment, she senses the spirit of her mother in a lost cat (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Cat) , reads tea leaves (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Tea_Leaves) , and dismisses Charles Darwin (/wiki/Charles_Darwin) 's theory of evolution as "too easy" in "The One Where Heckles Dies". Very in tune with her emotions and those of others, Phoebe sometimes serves as a rock to her friends. She especially shows a great deal of maternal instinct towards her younger brother Frank, despite the latter's lack of intelligence. Similar to the short-lived Monica/Chandler/Richard love triangle, Phoebe had two serious romantic interests that overlapped with each other at one point during the series. Physicist David ( Hank Azaria (/wiki/Hank_Azaria) ), has a romance with Phoebe in the first season of the series (/wiki/Friends_season_1) , but breaks her heart when he decides to leave for Minsk (/wiki/Minsk) on a three-year research trip. He makes a few more appearances throughout the series, most notably shortly before her engagement to Mike ( Paul Rudd (/wiki/Paul_Rudd) ). Mike was introduced early in the ninth season of the show (/wiki/Friends_season_9) , during a double blind date with Joey, who finds Mike randomly at Central Perk. After a whirlwind romance, Phoebe and Mike break up after he says he never wants to marry again, and she briefly reunites with David. While on a trip to Barbados (/wiki/The_One_in_Barbados) , both men propose to her, but she rejects David, realizing she is in love with Mike. She temporarily rejects Mike's proposal also, merely wanting an indication that their relationship is progressing. She ends up marrying Mike (/wiki/The_One_with_Phoebe%27s_Wedding) . Jokes and sarcasm [ edit ] "Smelly Cat" [ edit ] One of the show's running gags are Phoebe's absurd, folksy songs with awkward titles like "Pervert Parade", "Ode to A Pubic Hair", "You Suck", "Shut Up & Go Home", "Ballad of the Circumcized Man", "The Food Here Will Kill You", however Phoebe's magnum opus is undoubtedly " Smelly Cat (/wiki/Smelly_Cat) ", which she debuts in season one at Central Perk. The song is about a cat who is shunned by society because of its foul stench as a result of flatulence (/wiki/Flatulence) ("What are they feeding you?"). However, Phoebe empathizes with it, because she can relate to being outcast. The verses consist of Phoebe rattling off a list of ways in which the cat is disliked ("They won't take you to the vet (/wiki/Veterinarian) ", "you're obviously not their favorite pet", etc.) while the chorus ends with the uplifting message to anyone who is different or unique that it is "not your fault". In the episode, "The One Where Eddie Moves In," Phoebe is discovered by a record producer who wants to make a music video for "Smelly Cat". Phoebe is delighted with the result, at first naively failing to recognize that the voice in the video belongs to a far more talented singer. Ultimately, she philosophizes that the unrecognized singer is , metaphorically, Smelly Cat, denied deserving adoration for having the wrong "look". In the episode, "The One With Phoebe's Ex-Partner," Phoebe's former singing partner, Leslie, portrayed by E.G. Daily (/wiki/Elizabeth_Daily) , wants to get back together. The partnership fails again when Leslie sells "Smelly Cat" to a commercial agency against Phoebe's wishes. Phoebe teaches the song to Chrissie Hynde (/wiki/Chrissie_Hynde) , who releases it in a 1999 album. [7] (#cite_note-Leszczak2015-7) The credited songwriters include Adam Chase, Betsy Borns, Kudrow and Hynde. On August 26, 2015, Kudrow performed the song as a duet with Taylor Swift (/wiki/Taylor_Swift) during Swift's concert in Los Angeles as a part of her 1989 World Tour (/wiki/The_1989_World_Tour) . [8] (#cite_note-8) Age [ edit ] Her age seemed to have differed throughout the series. In "The One with the Mugging", it is implied that Phoebe is older than Ross, seeing as she was fourteen when he was 12. This episode made her possibly the oldest in the group. In " The One with the Jellyfish (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Jellyfish) " (Season 4), Phoebe states that she is twenty-nine, placing her birth in approximately 1968. However, in "The One Where They're Going to Party" (Season 4), Ross states he is also 29, which does not work with the previously mentioned two-year age gap. According to "The One with Frank Jr.", Phoebe was born on February 16; however, in Season 9 ("The One with Phoebe's Birthday Dinner") Phoebe's birthday is sometime in early November, since they could not make the reservations and the dinner had to be moved back to October 31. In "The One Where They All Turn Thirty" (Season 7), it is revealed that Phoebe was born a year earlier than she thought, believing she was 30 but was truly 31, which further adds to the inconsistency of her age throughout the show's run. Phoebe also tries on at least one occasion to manipulate the other friends into celebrating her birthday again within months of a previous birthday party. "Regina Phalange" [ edit ] Phoebe occasionally uses the alter ego (/wiki/Alter_ego) Regina Phalange (/wiki/Phalange) . The first reference to Regina Phalange is during season 5 following Ross saying "Rachel" instead of "Emily" at his wedding. She pretends to be "Doctor Phalange", Ross's brain doctor, claiming that names are interchangeable in his mind. When the friends go to Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas) , Phoebe introduces herself to the blackjack dealer as Regina Phalange. When Phoebe, Rachel, and Melissa go out to lunch (The One with Rachel's Big Kiss), and Melissa asks if she was in a sorority, she pretends to be a member of "Thigh Mega Tampon", a fictional sorority that was allegedly shut down when Regina Phalange died of alcohol poisoning. She also used her fake name to show Chandler and Monica how easily people lie about their names and to help Chandler with his interviewing skills in season 8 episode 4, when Joey says, "Hi, I'm Ken Adams" she replies, "Regina Phalange". In the season 10 episode "The One Where Joey Speaks French", Phoebe attempts to spare Joey from humiliation by introducing herself as "Régine Philange" and stating that Joey is speaking an obscure regional dialect from her "hometown" of " Estée Lauder (/wiki/Est%C3%A9e_Lauder_(businesswoman)) ". She immediately switches to French and claims that Joey is her younger brother who is "un peu retardé" (a little slow), and requesting that the casting director humor Joey's French-speaking abilities. The last reference is in the series finale when Phoebe successfully stalls Rachel's plane to Paris by saying there is a problem with the "left phalange", causing everyone on the plane to evacuate. The passengers are eventually convinced to return to the plane. When a woman skeptically asks an airport employee if "the phalange" was fixed, he replies, "Yes, the phalange is fixed! As a matter of fact, we put a whole lot of extra phalanges onboard, just in case!" Production [ edit ] Phoebe's pregnancy during Season 4 was to account for Lisa Kudrow (/wiki/Lisa_Kudrow) 's actual pregnancy. Casting [ edit ] Ellen DeGeneres (/wiki/Ellen_DeGeneres) , Kathy Griffin (/wiki/Kathy_Griffin) , Jane Lynch (/wiki/Jane_Lynch) , and Megan Mullally (/wiki/Megan_Mullally) all auditioned for the role of Phoebe. Lisa Kudrow won the role because the producers liked her recurring role as Ursula, the waitress in Mad About You (/wiki/Mad_About_You) . [9] (#cite_note-BrightFT-9) [10] (#cite_note-W209-10) The characters were connected to make them twin sisters. The producers said they liked the elements of Lisa in Ursula, but they needed Phoebe to be a lot more humorous. Reception [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Phoebe_Buffay&action=edit§ion=) . ( July 2022 ) Kudrow received critical acclaim for playing her character, including a Primetime Emmy Award (/wiki/Primetime_Emmy_Award) , a Screen Actors Guild Award (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award) , a Satellite Award (/wiki/Satellite_Award) , and an American Comedy Award (/wiki/American_Comedy_Awards) , as well as a Golden Globe Award (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award) nomination. [ citation needed ] Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) voted Phoebe Buffay on Friends as Lisa Kudrow's best performance. [11] (#cite_note-11) See also [ edit ] List of (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) Friends and (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) Joey characters (/wiki/List_of_Friends_and_Joey_characters) Friends (/wiki/Friends) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) ” https://screenrant.com/friends-character-ages-change-wrong-explained/” (https://screenrant.com/friends-character-ages-change-wrong-explained/”) Screenrant, Friends: The Characters' Ages (& How They Get It Wrong) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Crane, David; Kauffman, Marta. " The One with the East German Laundry Detergent (/wiki/The_One_with_the_East_German_Laundry_Detergent) ". Friends (/wiki/Friends) . Season 1. Episode 5. NBC. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Crane, David; Kauffman, Marta. " The One with the Monkey (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Monkey) ". Friends (/wiki/Friends) . Season 1. Episode 10. NBC (/wiki/NBC) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Crane, David; Kauffman, Marta. " The One with the Boobies (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Boobies) ". Friends (/wiki/Friends) . Season 1. Episode 13. NBC. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Crane, David; Kauffman, Marta. " The One with the Baby on the Bus (/wiki/The_One_with_the_Baby_on_the_Bus) ". Friends (/wiki/Friends) . Season 2. Episode 6. NBC (/wiki/NBC) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Crane, David; Kauffman, Marta. " The One Where Eddie Moves In (/wiki/The_One_Where_Eddie_Moves_In) ". Friends (/wiki/Friends) . Season 2. Episode 17. NBC. ^ (#cite_ref-Leszczak2015_7-0) Bob Leszczak (June 25, 2015). From Small Screen to Vinyl: A Guide to Television Stars Who Made Records, 1950-2000 . Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. p. 269. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4422-4274-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Taylor Swift sang Smelly Cat with Lisa Kudrow on stage" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/article/34074546/taylor-swift-sang-smelly-cat-with-lisa-kudrow-on-stage) . BBC (/wiki/BBC) . August 27, 2015 . Retrieved August 27, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-BrightFT_9-0) Bright, Kevin S. (November 15, 2005). Friends: Final Thoughts . New Wave Entertainment. ^ (#cite_ref-W209_10-0) Wild, David (/wiki/David_Wild) (2004). Friends ...'Til the End . London: Headline. p. 209. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7553-1321-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Lisa Kudrow Dishes It Out" (https://ew.com/article/2008/12/12/lisa-kudrows-best-role/) . Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) . No. 1026. December 19, 2008. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090425154757/http://www.ew.com/ew/article/0,,20246101,00.html) from the original on April 25, 2009 . Retrieved November 25, 2011 . 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Italian luxury fashion house For other uses, see Gucci (disambiguation) (/wiki/Gucci_(disambiguation)) . Guccio Gucci S.p.A. Trade name (/wiki/Trade_name) Gucci Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) ( S.p.A. (/wiki/Societ%C3%A0_per_azioni) ) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded 1921 ; 103 years ago ( 1921 ) in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Tuscany (/wiki/Tuscany) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Founder Guccio Gucci (/wiki/Guccio_Gucci) Headquarters Via Tornabuoni 73/R 50123 Florence (/wiki/Florence) Italy 43°46′17″N 11°15′04″E / 43.77139°N 11.25111°E / 43.77139; 11.25111 Number of locations 528 (2022) Key people Jean-François Palus ( CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Sabato de Sarno (/wiki/Sabato_de_Sarno) ( Creative Director (/wiki/Creative_Director) ) Revenue € (/wiki/Euro) 9.9 billion (2023) Number of employees 20,711 (2022) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Kering (/wiki/Kering) Website www (https://www.gucci.com/) .gucci (https://www.gucci.com/) .com (https://www.gucci.com/) Guccio Gucci S.p.A. , [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) doing business as (/wiki/Doing_business_as) Gucci ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ ɡ uː tʃ i / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ⓘ (/wiki/File:En-us-Gucci.ogg) GOO -chee , Italian: [ˈɡuttʃi] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ), is an Italian luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion (/wiki/Fashion) house based in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Italy. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-press-5) Its product lines include handbags, ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories, and home decoration; and it licenses its name and branding to Coty (/wiki/Coty_Inc.) for fragrance and cosmetics under the name Gucci Beauty. [6] (#cite_note-6) Gucci was founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci (/wiki/Guccio_Gucci) (1881–1953) in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Tuscany (/wiki/Tuscany) . Under the direction of Aldo Gucci (/wiki/Aldo_Gucci) (son of Guccio), Gucci became a worldwide-known brand, an icon of the Italian dolce vita (/wiki/Italian_economic_miracle) period. Following family feuds during the 1980s, the Gucci family was entirely ousted from the capital of the company by 1993. After this crisis, the brand was revived and in 1999 Gucci became a subsidiary of the French conglomerate PPR, which later renamed itself to Kering (/wiki/Kering) . In 2023, Gucci operated 538 stores with 20,711 employees, and generated €9.9 billion in sales. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Jean-François Palus has been CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) of Gucci since July 2023, [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) and Sabato De Sarno (/wiki/Sabato_De_Sarno) became creative director in January 2023. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) History 1921 birth in Florence See also: Guccio Gucci (/wiki/Guccio_Gucci) The founder Guccio Gucci The Gucci family claims its origins are rooted in the merchant city of Florence (/wiki/Florence) since around 1410. Guccio Giovanbattista Giacinto Dario Maria Gucci (1881–1953) left Florence for Paris (/wiki/Paris) , and settled in London (/wiki/London) in 1897 to work at the high-end Savoy Hotel (/wiki/Savoy_Hotel) . While working as a bellhop there, he would load/unload the luggage of the hotel's wealthy clients, learning about their tastes in fashion, quality, fabrics, and traveling conditions. He later worked four years for the Compagnie des Wagons-Lits (/wiki/Compagnie_des_Wagons-Lits) , the European rail company that specialized in upscale travel leisure, thus further enhancing his experience with luxurious traveling lifestyles. After World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) , he worked for the maker of fine luggage Franzi (/wiki/Franzi) . [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) In 1921, Guccio Gucci bought his own shop on Via della Vigna Nuova in Florence, Azienda Individuale Guccio Gucci , [13] (#cite_note-13) where he sold imported leather luggage. He also opened a small workshop to have his own leather goods made by local craftsmen. Eventually, a larger workshop had to be acquired to house Gucci's sixty artisans. In 1935, the invasion of Ethiopia (/wiki/Second_Italo-Ethiopian_War) by Mussolini led the League of Nations (/wiki/League_of_Nations) to impose a trade embargo on Italy. Leather became scarce, pushing Guccio Gucci to introduce other fabrics in the composition of the products, such as raffia, wicker, wood, linen and jute. The rombi motif, a Gucci signature, was created. The Guccis developed a new tanning technique to produce " cuoio grasso ", which became a Gucci trademark. In 1937, Gucci launched its handbags. [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) Guccio's wife and children all worked in the shop. Aldo (/wiki/Aldo_Gucci) , the son of Guccio, became increasingly involved in the family company since he started working there in 1925. He convinced his father to grow by opening a new shop in Rome (/wiki/Rome) (21 Via Condotti) in 1938, and launched more Gucci accessories (gloves, belts, wallets, keychains). During World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , the artisans of Gucci worked on making boots for the Italian infantry. [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) The company made handbags of cotton canvas (/wiki/Canvas) rather than leather during World War II as a result of material shortages. The canvas, however, was distinguished by a signature double-G symbol combined with prominent red and green bands. After the war, the Gucci crest, which showed a shield and armored knight surrounded by a ribbon inscribed with the family name, became synonymous with the city of Florence. Post-war Dolce Vita See also: Aldo Gucci (/wiki/Aldo_Gucci) and Rodolfo Gucci (/wiki/Rodolfo_Gucci) Bamboo bag After the war, Guccio Gucci distributed the shares of the company to his three sons (Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo (/wiki/Rodolfo_Gucci) ). In 1947, Gucci launched the Bamboo bag. [14] (#cite_note-14) The brand launched its first global tagline, Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten . The iconic moccasins (/wiki/Moccasin) (Gucci loafer (/wiki/Loafer) ) were launched in 1952. Guccio Gucci died on 2 January 1953 in Milan. In November 1953, Gucci opened its first US store on 5th Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) and 58th Street (/wiki/58th_Street_(Manhattan)) in New York. A second NY shop opened in the Saint Regis Hotel in 1960, and a third on 5th Avenue and 54th Street (/wiki/54th_Street_(Manhattan)) in 1973, leading the locals to call this NY area "Gucci City". [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) In 1961, Gucci opened stores in London (/wiki/London) and Palm Beach (/wiki/Palm_Beach,_Florida) , and launched the Jackie Bag. In March 1963, Gucci opened its first French store near Place Vendôme (/wiki/Place_Vend%C3%B4me) in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) The double-G logo for belt buckles and other accessory decorations was introduced in 1964. [15] (#cite_note-Logo-15) The Flora scarf was designed in 1966 by Rodolfo Gucci and Vittorio Accornero for Grace Kelly (/wiki/Grace_Kelly) , Princess of Monaco, who became a notable consumer of Gucci products. In October 1968, Gucci opened a store at 347 Rodeo Drive, driving many Hollywood stars to endorse the brand. With the Rodeo Drive opening came the launch of Gucci's first dresses. Gucci's breakthrough in the United States led to its global development in Asia (Tokyo opening in 1972, Hong Kong in 1974) and the Middle East. [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) In Brussels, Aldo's son Roberto piloted the first Gucci franchised store. By 1969, Gucci was managing ten shops in the United States. 84,000 Gucci moccasins were sold in the US alone that year. US President John F. Kennedy (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy) called Aldo Gucci the "first Italian ambassador to the United States". [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) Gucci launched a Rolls-Royce (/wiki/Rolls-Royce_Motor_Cars) luggage set in 1970 [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) and partnered with American Motors Corporation (/wiki/American_Motors_Corporation) (AMC) to create the Gucci version of the AMC Hornet (/wiki/AMC_Hornet#Gucci_Sportabout) that was marketed during the 1971, 1972, and 1973 model years. The Gucci Sportabout wagon became one of the first American cars to offer a special luxury trim package (/wiki/Trim_package) created by a famous fashion designer. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) Gucci launched Gucci Perfumes (Il Mio Profumo) and its first watch (Model 2000) in 1972, its first franchised store in the US in 1973, and opened the Gucci Galleria in its Beverly Hills store in 1977, a private art gallery adjoined to the store and reserved to premium clients who were given a golden key to access it. [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) From 1978 to 1984 a Miami (/wiki/Miami) -based coachbuilder (/wiki/Coachbuilder) marketed a Gucci edition of the Cadillac Seville (/wiki/Cadillac_Seville) sedan (the 1978 model is exhibited at the Gucci Museum). [19] (#cite_note-Alook-19) In 1985, the Gucci loafer became part of the permanent collection of the New York Moma (/wiki/Museum_of_Modern_Art) . [20] (#cite_note-20) 1980s Gucci's family feud See also: Maurizio Gucci (/wiki/Maurizio_Gucci) In 1969, Giorgio, the son of Aldo, had sparked the first family feud by launching Gucci Boutique on his own, which was finally reabsorbed by the family group in 1972. [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) During the 1980s, the Gucci saga eroded the family-held top management of the company and fed the press headlines. Paolo Gucci (/wiki/Paolo_Gucci) , son of Aldo, tried to launch the brand Gucci Plus on his own. Aldo was criticized for developing most of the international business under Gucci America, which he owned. In 1982, to ease tensions in the family, the Gucci group was consolidated and became a publicly-traded company, Guccio Gucci SpA. [21] (#cite_note-21) [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) In May 1983, Rodolfo died. His son Maurizio Gucci inherited his father's majority stake in the company and launched a legal war against his uncle Aldo for full control of Gucci (a prosecution led by the city prosecutor Rudolph Giuliani (/wiki/Rudy_Giuliani) , and with Domenico de Sole (/wiki/Domenico_De_Sole) representing the Gucci family). [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) Maurizio Gucci (/wiki/Maurizio_Gucci) took over the company's direction. In 1986, Aldo Gucci, 81, with only 16.7% of Gucci left in his possession, was sentenced to a year in prison for tax evasion (/wiki/Tax_evasion) [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-23) (in a prison where Albert Nipon (/wiki/Albert_Nipon) was also an inmate [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) ). The artwork of the Gucci Galleria was liquidated. [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) In 1988, Maurizio Gucci sold almost 47.8% of Gucci to the Bahrain (/wiki/Bahrain) -based investment fund Investcorp (/wiki/Investcorp) (owner of Tiffany (/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co.) since 1984), and withheld the other 50%. [24] (#cite_note-24) Despite the family disputes, between 1981 and 1987, the sales of trademarked Gucci products reached $400 million, [25] (#cite_note-25) and $227 million in 1990 alone. [26] (#cite_note-Anderson-26) The 1980s were characterized by a mass-production of Gucci products, which generated revenue but negatively affected Gucci's position as an exclusive luxury brand. Maurizio Gucci hired Dawn Mello (/wiki/Dawn_Mello) to put Gucci back on tracks. [27] (#cite_note-27) [26] (#cite_note-Anderson-26) From 1991 to 1993, Gucci's finances were still in the red. Maurizio Gucci was blamed for spending extravagant amounts of money on the company's headquarters in Florence (Via delle Caldaie palazzo) and in Milan. Investcorp bought the remaining 50% of Guccio Gucci S.p.A. from Maurizio Gucci in 1993, ending the family involvement in the group. [28] (#cite_note-:3-28) In March 1995, Maurizio Gucci was shot dead in the lobby of Gucci's Milan office. [29] (#cite_note-29) His ex-wife Patrizia Reggiani (/wiki/Patrizia_Reggiani) served 16 years in jail for hiring the hitman to murder him. [30] (#cite_note-30) Porno Chic Revival See also: Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) and Domenico De Sole (/wiki/Domenico_De_Sole) Dawn Mello [31] (#cite_note-31) was hired in November 1989 as Gucci's executive vice president and chief designer. She reduced the number of stores from over 1,000 to 180 in a move to rebuild the brand's exclusivity. She also reduced the number of items sold by Gucci from 22,000 to 7,000. She revived the Bamboo bag and the Gucci loafer. She moved Gucci's headquarters back from Milan to Florence, where the history of Gucci is deeply rooted. [26] (#cite_note-Anderson-26) Dawn Mello hired Tom Ford to oversee the women's ready-to-wear collection. [28] (#cite_note-:3-28) In 1994, Tom Ford was named creative director of Gucci. [32] (#cite_note-32) Ford and Mello revisited the 1970s archives of the brand. Ford's 1995 collection, which included the sensual white dresses with provocative cut-outs, became an instant hit. [28] (#cite_note-:3-28) Revived through the hot-bod hedonism of Tom Ford's creations, Gucci also launched provocative products in limited edition such as silver handcuffs, [33] (#cite_note-33) a G-string (/wiki/G-string) [34] (#cite_note-34) and provocative ad campaigns such as the G logo shaved on pubic hair. [35] (#cite_note-35) Gucci dress Domenico De Sole (/wiki/Domenico_De_Sole) , legal adviser to the Gucci family since the 1980s and CEO of Gucci since 1994, campaigned for Gucci's leather manufacturers in Italy to keep working together and developed a partners' program to strengthen their ties. He reviewed the pricing of each product and gradually raised Gucci's advertising budget from $6 million in 1993 to $70 million in 1997. [36] (#cite_note-36) In October 1995, the company was publicly indexed on the New York Stock Exchange (/wiki/NYSE) with an initial stock value set at US$22. [28] (#cite_note-:3-28) Then, from 1995 to 1997, Investcorp sold its interests in Gucci for around US$1.9 billion. [37] (#cite_note-37) LVMH-PPR struggle over Gucci By January 1999, the French luxury conglomerate LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) , which had been buying shares of Gucci discreetly since 1995, reached 34% ownership in Gucci Group NV. [38] (#cite_note-38) Seeking a way out of LVMH's control, Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole turned to the French financier François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) and his group Pinault Printemps Redoute (/wiki/Pinault_Printemps_Redoute) , which later became Kering, for an emergency exit. In March, Pinault's group bought out 40% of Gucci at $75 a share, and LVMH's shares decreased to 20.7% in a dilution process. Through the deal, PPR also purchased Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) from Sanofi (/wiki/Sanofi) and sold it back for the same price to the Gucci Group. [39] (#cite_note-39) This coup d'état in the fashion world launched a cold war between LVMH and the new Gucci-PPR coalition. [40] (#cite_note-Kapner-40) A tension occurred in December 2000 when Gucci bought 51% of Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(fashion_house)) 's couture house, as McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) was also the creative designer of LVMH's Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) at that time. [41] (#cite_note-41) The feud around Gucci ended in September 2001 when all parties reached an agreement. [40] (#cite_note-Kapner-40) By the end of 2003, Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole made it official that they would not renew their contract with Gucci-PPR that ended in April 2004. [42] (#cite_note-42) Following Ford's departure, Gucci Group retained three designers to continue the success of the company's flagship label: John Ray, Alessandra Facchinetti (/wiki/Alessandra_Facchinetti) and Frida Giannini (/wiki/Frida_Giannini) , all of whom had worked under Ford's creative direction. Facchinetti was elevated to Creative Director of Women's wear in 2004 and designed for two seasons before leaving the company. Ray served as Creative Director of Menswear (/wiki/Menswear) for three years. Frida Giannini (/wiki/Frida_Giannini) – a Gucci handbag designer since 2002, head of accessories since 2004, and creative director of women's ready-to-wear and accessories since 2005 – was appointed creative director of Gucci in 2006. [43] (#cite_note-43) Patrizio di Marco, formerly CEO of Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) , was named CEO of Gucci in 2008. [44] (#cite_note-44) Both acclaimed and criticized for perpetually revisiting Tom Ford's archives, Frida Giannini eventually toned down Ford's explosive 'Porno Chic' props over the years "from sexy to sensual", and started to experiment with 'androgynous Bohemian' styles with a 19th-century reminiscence. [45] (#cite_note-45) She also developed "neo-classics" such as the New Bamboo and the New Jackie handbags. [46] (#cite_note-nytimes_guardians-46) Patrizio di Marco focused on the post-2008 crisis with fewer styles and more midrange products. [47] (#cite_note-47) In 2010, Gucci launched a partnership with the auction house Christie's (/wiki/Christie%27s) to develop a wider repository of the brand's archives and provide an authenticity certification service. [46] (#cite_note-nytimes_guardians-46) In 2011, the company opened the Gucci Museum ( Gucci Museo ) in Florence to celebrate its 90th anniversary. [48] (#cite_note-vogue_museoop-48) Between 2010 and 2015, 220 new Gucci stores opened, bringing the total store count to 500. [49] (#cite_note-49) Brand Renaissance Two ensembles by Alessandro Michele for Gucci, on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) in New York, 2019. In December 2014, Marco Bizzarri, former CEO of Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) , was named CEO of Gucci. [50] (#cite_note-50) He was tasked to reverse Gucci's declining sales by giving a new impetus to the brand. [51] (#cite_note-wsj_fixing-51) In January 2015, Bizzarri appointed Alessandro Michele as the creative director of Gucci. Alessandro Michele had been working for Gucci since 2002, and he served as Frida Giannini's deputy and head accessories designer. During the Fall show of February 2015, Alessandro Michele introduced "a different Gucci", [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) one with a "sophisticated, intellectual and androgynous feel". [51] (#cite_note-wsj_fixing-51) Alessandro Michele launched the Renaissance of Gucci. [54] (#cite_note-54) He revived Gucci classics, such as the double-G logo, [55] (#cite_note-55) the Jackie O. (/wiki/Jacqueline_Kennedy_Onassis) bag, [56] (#cite_note-56) and more; he also created iconic products like the Dionysus handbag. [57] (#cite_note-57) With a feminized menswear line and a strong feminist stance and a ' geek-chic (/wiki/Geek-chic) ' style, Alessandro Michele introduced postgender props for Gucci. [58] (#cite_note-58) In September 2016 Gucci inaugurated the Gucci Hub, its new Milan headquarters, built in the former Caproni (/wiki/Caproni) aeronautical factory. [59] (#cite_note-59) In July 2017, Gucci announced the launch of Gucci Décor, which was the first time the brand tested itself in the home decoration (/wiki/Interior_design) segment. [60] (#cite_note-60) In April 2018, Gucci inaugurated the ArtLab, a 37,000-square-metre center of innovation outside of Florence in Italy, where new leather goods, footwear, new materials, metal hardware and packaging are developed and tested. [61] (#cite_note-61) In November 2018, Gucci opened the Gucci Wooster Bookstore in New York, a 2,000-book shop curated by the founder of Dashwood Books David Strettell (/wiki/David_Strettell) . [62] (#cite_note-62) In April 2019, the company launched Gucci 9, a 500-employee network of 6 call centers (/wiki/Call_centre) worldwide for high-end customer service. [63] (#cite_note-63) Gucci also revived its makeup collection [64] (#cite_note-64) and launched its first fine jewelry collection. [65] (#cite_note-65) In December 2020, following an agreement between Kering and Alibaba, Gucci launched two stores (fashion and beauty) on Tmall. [66] (#cite_note-66) On November 23, 2022, Alessandro Michele left the post of creative director of Gucci. [67] (#cite_note-67) In January 2023, Sabato de Sarno (/wiki/Sabato_de_Sarno) was appointed creative director of Gucci [68] (#cite_note-68) to "reestablish Gucci's edge" and "restore its brand equity", after the Bizzarri/Michele success had also eroded Gucci's luxury glow. [69] (#cite_note-:5-69) His first collection, dubbed 'Gucci Ancora' (Italian for 'Gucci again') introduced a new It color, the Gucci Rosso Ancora , a velvet burgundy with a oxblood hue. [70] (#cite_note-70) For The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) ' fashion journalist Vanessa Friedman (/wiki/Vanessa_Friedman) , the collection was "not a major statement, but rather a cleansing interregnum after the overblown muchness of Mr. Michele's tenure", [71] (#cite_note-71) marking the dawn of a "new era of pragmatism" for the brand. [72] (#cite_note-72) During this creative reboot, the company launched a phase of restructuring and consolidation [69] (#cite_note-:5-69) and in July 2023, Jean-François Palus replaced Marco Bizzarri as CEO of Gucci to drive the transition. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) Sales dropped 6% in 2023, a "trying year" according to Kering's CEO François-Henri Pinault. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Corporate structure Gucci's holding company Guccio Gucci S.p.A. is based in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) , and is a subsidiary of the French luxury group Kering (/wiki/Kering) . In 2023, Gucci operated 538 stores for 20,711 employees, and generated €9.9 billion in revenue (down from €10.5 billion in 2022). [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) Governance In the history of Gucci, up until the end of the Gucci family era, the design, promotion, and production of Gucci products were handled by the members of the Gucci family. [73] (#cite_note-73) CEO Since July 2023: Jean-François Palus [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) 2014-2023: Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) [74] (#cite_note-74) 2008–2014: Patrizio di Marco [75] (#cite_note-75) 2004–2008: Mark Lee [76] (#cite_note-76) 1994–2004: Domenico De Sole (/wiki/Domenico_De_Sole) Creative designers Since January 2023: Sabato De Sarno (/wiki/Sabato_de_Sarno) [77] (#cite_note-77) [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) 2015–2022: Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) [78] (#cite_note-78) [79] (#cite_note-79) 2006–2015: Frida Giannini (/wiki/Frida_Giannini) 1995–2004: Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) 1989–1995: Dawn Mello (/wiki/Dawn_Mello) Initiatives Culture In 2011, the company opened the Gucci Museum ( Gucci Museo ) inside the 14th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence to celebrate its 90th anniversary. [80] (#cite_note-80) [48] (#cite_note-vogue_museoop-48) In 2016, Alessandro Michele curated two additional rooms dedicated to Tom Ford's collections. [81] (#cite_note-81) In January 2018, following a renovation, the Gucci Museum reopened with a new name, the Gucci Garden , and a new restaurant within its walls, the Gucci Osteria , managed by Massimo Bottura (/wiki/Massimo_Bottura) . [82] (#cite_note-82) The Gucci Osteria was awarded one Michelin star (/wiki/Michelin_star) in November 2019. [83] (#cite_note-83) In February 2020, a second Gucci Osteria opened on the rooftop of the Gucci Rodeo Drive (/wiki/Rodeo_Drive) store in Los Angeles. [84] (#cite_note-84) In March 2022, Gucci opened a "small but opulent" cocktail bar, the Gucci Giardino 25 in Florence. [85] (#cite_note-85) In April 2017, Gucci financed the restoration of the Boboli Gardens at the Uffizi (/wiki/Uffizi) Gallery in Florence (/wiki/Florence) . [86] (#cite_note-86) In June 2019, Gucci financed the restoration of the historic Rupe Tarpea (/wiki/Tarpeian_Rock) and Belvedere Gardens in Rome. [87] (#cite_note-87) In November 2022, Gucci pledged a three-year donation to help restore and preserve the Gyeongbokgung Palace (/wiki/Gyeongbokgung_Palace) in South Korea (/wiki/South_Korea) . [88] (#cite_note-88) Social In 2008, Gucci launched the Gucci Tribeca Documentary Fund, an $80,000 fund to finance movies promoting social change and presented at the Tribeca Film Festival (/wiki/Tribeca_Film_Festival) . [89] (#cite_note-89) By 2011, the fund grew to $150,000, including $50,000 for a newly created Women Documentary Award. [90] (#cite_note-90) In 2011, with the Venice Film Festival (/wiki/Venice_Film_Festival) , Gucci also launched the 'Gucci Award for Women in Cinema' to underline the impact of women in film-making. [91] (#cite_note-91) From 2005 to 2015, Gucci donated $20 million to UNICEF (/wiki/UNICEF) 's Schools for Africa program. Once Chime for Change was created, it became the funding vehicle of the Gucci-UNICEF partnership. [92] (#cite_note-92) Chime for Change was founded in February 2013 by Frida Giannini (/wiki/Frida_Giannini) , Salma Hayek (/wiki/Salma_Hayek) and Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) as a global campaign for the improvement of education, health and justice for women worldwide. [93] (#cite_note-93) In June 2013, Chime for Change organized the Sound of Change Live concert which generated $4 million to fund 200 projects in 70 countries. [94] (#cite_note-94) In December 2013, Gucci inked a partnership with Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) and Women Who Code (/wiki/Women_Who_Code) to create the women-focused hackathon Chime Hack. [95] (#cite_note-95) Gucci sells a yellow t-shirt that reads "My Body My Choice" and redistributes its proceeds to Chime for Change. [96] (#cite_note-96) In July 2013, activist Lydia Emily (/wiki/Lydia_Emily) was commissioned to paint a mural on Skid Row, Los Angeles (/wiki/Skid_Row,_Los_Angeles) of a woman named Jessica, who is a survivor of human trafficking (/wiki/Human_trafficking) . [97] (#cite_note-97) In January 2019, Chime for Change launched the murals campaign "To Gather Together" promoting gender equality (/wiki/Gender_equality) and designed by the artist MP5. [98] (#cite_note-98) In 2020, Gucci launched an "Unconventional Beauty" ad campaign, including a model with Down syndrome (/wiki/Down_syndrome) . [99] (#cite_note-99) During the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) , Gucci pledged €2 million to two crowdfunding campaigns, the first to support the Italian Civil Protection (/wiki/Protezione_Civile) Department, and the second for the COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund. [100] (#cite_note-100) In 2023, Gucci reinforced its alliance with UNICEF with a new financial donation of 300,000 euros to the organization's Education Thematic Fund which seeks to ensure children's right to a 'high-quality' education globally. [101] (#cite_note-101) [102] (#cite_note-102) Environment In 2015, Gucci launched its own environmental profit and loss (/wiki/Environmental_profit_and_loss_account) initiative. [103] (#cite_note-103) In October 2017, Gucci announced it would ban furs from its stores in 2018. [104] (#cite_note-104) In June 2018, the brand launched 'Equilibrium', its platform to communicate on its social and environmental efforts and progress. [105] (#cite_note-105) In June 2020, Gucci launched its first fully sustainable collection "Gucci Off the Grid". [106] (#cite_note-106) This collection included pieces made from organic, natural and sustainable materials like organic cotton, recycled steel as well as regenerated polyamide. [107] (#cite_note-107) In September 2022, Gucci received the Climate Action Award due to its devotion to environmental sustainability. [108] (#cite_note-108) In 2023, Gucci obtained the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Award for Circular Economy at the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI). [109] (#cite_note-109) [110] (#cite_note-110) In February 2023, Gucci announced the launch of the Circular Hub, it next-generation manufacturing hub optimized for circularity (/wiki/Circular_economy) and carbon efficiency. [111] (#cite_note-111) Later in October 2023, Gucci introduced the Horsebit 1955 bag made with Demetra, an animal-free material, [112] (#cite_note-112) [113] (#cite_note-113) [114] (#cite_note-114) which was awarded the prize for best vegan bag two months later by PETA (/wiki/People_for_the_Ethical_Treatment_of_Animals) . [115] (#cite_note-115) In popular culture Eponymous adjective "Gucci" is often used as an eponymous adjective; for example, "I feel Gucci!" or "that’s so Gucci!" are used to describe feeling luxurious or referencing something as being luxurious. [116] (#cite_note-116) [117] (#cite_note-117) The earliest known instance of Gucci used in this sense is Lenny Kravitz (/wiki/Lenny_Kravitz) describing his bedroom as "very Gucci" [118] (#cite_note-:0-118) in the September 1999 issue of Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) . [118] (#cite_note-:0-118) Movies After initially announcing plans for a movie about the Gucci dynasty in 2007, [119] (#cite_note-119) filmmaker Ridley Scott (/wiki/Ridley_Scott) detailed specifics about his movie in November 2019; titled House of Gucci (/wiki/House_of_Gucci) , the movie would star Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) as Patrizia Reggiani (/wiki/Patrizia_Reggiani) and Adam Driver (/wiki/Adam_Driver) as Maurizio Gucci (/wiki/Maurizio_Gucci) . [120] (#cite_note-120) House of Gucci ' s world premiere took place at the Odeon Luxe Leicester Square (/wiki/Odeon_Luxe_Leicester_Square) in London on November 9, 2021. [121] (#cite_note-121) The Gucci family heirs called Scott's movie "an insult to the legacy on which the brand is built today". [122] (#cite_note-122) In 2000, Martin Scorsese (/wiki/Martin_Scorsese) had also announced plans to make a movie about the Gucci family. [123] (#cite_note-123) Guinness World Records 1974: The Model 2000 Gucci watch broke the record for selling more than one million units in two years. [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) 1998: The Gucci "Genius Jeans" set the record as the most expensive pair of jeans. The jeans were distressed, ripped, and covered with African-inspired beads and were priced at US$3,134 in Milan. [124] (#cite_note-124) [125] (#cite_note-125) Counterfeiting During the 1970s, the explosive popularity of Gucci turned the brand into a prime target of the counterfeiting industry. [11] (#cite_note-Gucci_2016_p-11) The Gucci workshops elaborated the brindle pigskin tanning technique that became a Gucci signature, and a tanning process difficult to counterfeit. In 1977 alone, Gucci launched 34 lawsuits for counterfeiting. [12] (#cite_note-Forden_2001_p-12) By the mid-1980s, the brand was involved in "thousands of confiscations and lawsuits all over the world". [126] (#cite_note-126) In 2013, the UK's Intellectual Property Office issued a ruling that Gucci had lost the rights to its GG trademark in the UK "to a version of the GG logo in four categories, which encompassed garments such as bracelets, shoulder bags, scarves and coats". [127] (#cite_note-Gucci_in_Trademark_Tussle_in_U.K.-127) However, "according to Gucci, the ruling does not affect the use of its GG logo in the region" because "Gucci is the owner of several other valid registrations for this mark, including a Community Trade Mark (covering the European Union) for its iconic GG logo and those rights are directly enforceable in the U.K." [127] (#cite_note-Gucci_in_Trademark_Tussle_in_U.K.-127) In November 2008, the website TheBagAddiction.com was shut down after being sued by Gucci for selling counterfeit products. [128] (#cite_note-128) In 2013, Gucci cracked down on 155 domain names used by counterfeiters to sell fake Gucci products. [129] (#cite_note-Gucci_Awarded_$144.2M_Against_Online_Counterfeiters-129) In 2015, Gucci's parent company Kering (/wiki/Kering) sued the Chinese website Alibaba (/wiki/Alibaba_Group) for listing a lot of "obviously fake Gucci products" on its website. [130] (#cite_note-130) In April 2016, Gucci's anti-counterfeiting legal actions backfired when the targeted products were papier-mâché (/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9) shaped exactly like Gucci products and burned by Chinese people during the ancestral Qingming Jie (/wiki/Qingming_Jie) tradition. [131] (#cite_note-131) In April 2017, Gucci won a lawsuit against 89 Chinese websites selling fake Gucci products. [132] (#cite_note-132) In October 2018, Marco Bizzarri warned the Chinese ecommerce giants Alibaba (/wiki/Alibaba_Group) and JD.com (/wiki/JD.com) that Gucci could not open shop on their websites as long as they would not remove the many fake Gucci products out of their listings. [133] (#cite_note-133) In December 2019, Gucci sued three dozen websites selling fake Gucci products. [134] (#cite_note-134) In 2023, Gucci USA filed a lawsuit against Sam's Club (/wiki/Sam%27s_Club) , Century 21 (/wiki/Century_21_(department_store)) and Lord & Taylor (/wiki/Lord_%26_Taylor) for selling counterfeit Gucci products. [135] (#cite_note-135) Controversies In April 2016, the UK's Advertising Standards Authority (/wiki/Advertising_Standards_Authority_(United_Kingdom)) banned a Gucci online video ad because it starred an "unhealthily thin" model. [136] (#cite_note-136) In February 2019, Gucci removed a black balaclava (/wiki/Balaclava_(clothing)) sweater with a rollup collar and a cut-out red-lipped mouth from its shelves after it had been compared to a blackface (/wiki/Blackface) costume [137] (#cite_note-137) [138] (#cite_note-138) (Michele was inspired by Leigh Bowery (/wiki/Leigh_Bowery) but still apologized). [139] (#cite_note-139) To address this issue, Gucci launched the 'Gucci North America Changemakers Scholarship' program dedicated to foster diversity within the fashion industry with a $5-million annual fund to support non-profits and community-based programs involved with "the African-American community and communities of color at-large". [140] (#cite_note-140) Two months later, the Sikhs (/wiki/Sikhs) community in India (/wiki/India) criticized Gucci's cultural appropriation of a religious item when the Italian brand commercialized turbans (/wiki/Turban) at $800 apiece. [141] (#cite_note-141) Gucci appointed a Global Head of Diversity to address the brand's latest issues with cultural diversity [142] (#cite_note-142) and launched a $1.5-million scholarship program for US students traditionally underrepresented in the fashion industry. [143] (#cite_note-143) During a September 2019 show that mimicked a défilé of mental patients, catwalk model Ayesha Tan Jones held up her hands on which "mental health is not fashion" was written, a reaction to the brand's inappropriate commercial use of the imagery of mental illness. [144] (#cite_note-144) Kering paid a $1.25 billion tax settlement in Italy following Gucci's 2011–2017 tax irregularities. [145] (#cite_note-145) In November 2023, in response to Gucci's October decision to move 153 of 219 design employees from Rome to Milan by March 2024, 50 employees went on a one day strike in the first industrial action against the company in its 102 year history. [146] (#cite_note-146) Trade union representatives say the workers intend to protest throughout the month of November 2023. [147] (#cite_note-147) See also Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) Bibliography Forden, Sara G. (2001). The House of Gucci: A Sensational Story of Murder, Madness, Glamour, and Greed . Custom House. 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Retrieved 8 February 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-139) Sarah Young, Gucci’s blackface scandal: Creative director breaks silence over controversial jumper (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/gucci-blackface-scandal-jumper-apology-racism-controversy-alessandro-michele-creative-a8776641.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201002170905/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/gucci-blackface-scandal-jumper-apology-racism-controversy-alessandro-michele-creative-a8776641.html) 2 October 2020 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Independent.co.uk , 13 February 2019 ^ (#cite_ref-140) Sandra Song, Gucci Launches Changemakers Program to Further Diversity (https://www.papermag.com/gucci-changemakers-program-2632069196.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200806134217/https://www.papermag.com/gucci-changemakers-program-2632069196.html) 6 August 2020 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Papermag.com , 19 March 2019 ^ (#cite_ref-141) Kimberly Yam, Sikhs Speak Out Against Gucci’s $800 Turban (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/sikhs-speak-out-against-guccis-800-turban_n_5cdd8eb0e4b01571365d94c5) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200529070957/https://www.huffpost.com/entry/sikhs-speak-out-against-guccis-800-turban_n_5cdd8eb0e4b01571365d94c5) 29 May 2020 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Huffpost.com , 16 May 2019 ^ (#cite_ref-142) Ellie Violet Bramley, Gucci hires diversity chief after criticism over insensitive designs (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jul/30/gucci-hires-diversity-chief-after-criticism-over-insensitive-designs) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200910200522/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jul/30/gucci-hires-diversity-chief-after-criticism-over-insensitive-designs) 10 September 2020 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , Theguardian.com , 30 July 2019 ^ (#cite_ref-143) "Gucci launches diversity US scholarship program" (https://apnews.com/471c3225529246db8ab05a3234de9776) . AP NEWS . 7 October 2019. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201124065555/https://apnews.com/471c3225529246db8ab05a3234de9776) from the original on 24 November 2020 . Retrieved 18 September 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-144) Mallenbaum, Carly. "Model protests Gucci runway that featured straitjackets: 'Mental health is not fashion' (https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/fashion/2019/09/24/model-protests-gucci-show-straitjackets-mental-health-not-fashion/2435086001/) " (https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/fashion/2019/09/24/model-protests-gucci-show-straitjackets-mental-health-not-fashion/2435086001/) . USA Today . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200921234558/https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/fashion/2019/09/24/model-protests-gucci-show-straitjackets-mental-health-not-fashion/2435086001/) from the original on 21 September 2020 . Retrieved 18 September 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-145) Parodi, Emilio; White, Sarah (9 May 2019). "Gucci owner Kering agrees record Italian tax settlement" (https://web.archive.org/web/20210907055115/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-kering-tax-italy/gucci-owner-kering-agrees-record-italian-tax-settlement-idUSKCN1SF1X9) . Reuters.com . Archived from the original (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-kering-tax-italy/gucci-owner-kering-agrees-record-italian-tax-settlement-idUSKCN1SF1X9) on 7 September 2021 . Retrieved 5 February 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-146) Tondo, Lorenzo (27 November 2023). "Gucci design staff strike in protest at plan to relocate to Milan" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/nov/27/gucci-design-staff-strike-in-protest-at-plan-to-relocate-from-rome-to-milan) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 28 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-147) Carlo, Andrea (27 November 2023). "A 'stitch-up': What's at stake for Gucci as Rome workers strike" (https://www.euronews.com/culture/2023/11/27/gucci-employees-strike-whats-at-stake-for-the-italian-fashion-titan) . euronews . Retrieved 28 November 2023 . External links Wikimedia Commons has media related to Gucci (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gucci) . 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Sheico The headquarters of SHEICO Group, located in Yilan County Native name 薛長興集團 Founded 1968 Headquarters Wujie (/wiki/Wujie,_Yilan) , Yilan County (/wiki/Yilan_County,_Taiwan) , Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) Website www.sheico.com (http://www.sheico.com/index-en.php) Sheico Group ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 薛長興集團 ; pinyin (/wiki/Pinyin) : Xuē Zhǎngxìng Jítuán ) is a large OEM (/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer) supplier of many types of watersports (/wiki/Watersports) apparel. The company's headquarters is located in Yilan, Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) , and its manufacturing facilities are in Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) , Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnam) , Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) and Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) . Its customers include global brands such as Billabong, Xcel, Patagonia, and ScubaPro. [1] (#cite_note-1) In 2021, Sheico Group generated $470 Million U.S. Dollars in revenue [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) and has an estimated global market share of 65% in the wetsuit industry. [3] (#cite_note-3) Products [ edit ] It manufactures goods include neoprene (/wiki/Neoprene) wetsuits (/wiki/Wet_suit) , drysuits (/wiki/Dry_suit) , life vests (/wiki/Life_vest) , personal flotation devices (/wiki/Personal_flotation_device) , boots, gloves, orthopedic (/wiki/Orthopedic) supports and waders (/wiki/Waders_(footwear)) . Recently, the company's product line has expanded to functional fabrics as well as sportswear OEM/ODM service. History [ edit ] The company was founded in 1968, as a maker of rain gears and rubber boots. [4] (#cite_note-4) By 2014, the company's production accounted for over 60% of global market share. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) In the early stages of the company development, the neoprene sheets needed to produce such a line were dearly priced and tightly controlled by a handful of Japanese suppliers. Therefore, the founder, Mr, Pi-goon Shiue, and his son, Min Shiue, were intent on bringing the neoprene in-house. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) By 1983, the experimentation was a success and the first neoprene production line of the company was established. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) In 1996, the company's vertical integration was expanded to create "Shei Heng Hsin Sheiflex Ind. co., Ltd." and began producing spandex yarn. Two spandex manufacturing facilities were established in Taiwan and mainland China. A spandex brand, Sheiflex, is created in order to promote their spandex yarn. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) Starting in the second half of 2020, the global COVID pandemic created a surge in outdoor recreation [8] (#cite_note-8) that greatly boosted the demand for wetsuits. [9] (#cite_note-9) Sheico quickly expanded its production to meet the demand and grew its revenue significantly. [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) The company also gave back to the community by donating over US$2 million to build a covered playground complex in the Luodong Sports Park in Yilan, Taiwan. [10] (#cite_note-10) See also [ edit ] Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of companies of Taiwan (/wiki/List_of_companies_of_Taiwan) Sportswear (activewear) (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) Wetsuit (/wiki/Wetsuit) Neoprene (/wiki/Neoprene) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "SHEICO-The Professional Sportswear Manufacturer" (https://sheico.com/index-en.php) . sheico.com . Retrieved 2022-12-23 . ^ Jump up to: a b CHUNG, OSCAR (2022-07-01). "Making a Splash" (https://issuu.com/taiwanreviewmofa/docs/_7-8_-_150dpi/s/16370000) . Taiwan Today . Retrieved 2022-12-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "一千位在地員工的信任 創造衝浪衣後山奇蹟 - 商業周刊第1651期 - 商周知識庫" (https://www.businessweekly.com.tw/Archive/Article?StrId=69734) . 商業周刊 - 商周.com (in Chinese (Taiwan)) . Retrieved 2022-12-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Milestones - SHEICO - the Professional Sportswear Manufacturer" (http://www.sheico.com.tw/en-ww/about/milestone.php) . ^ Jump up to: a b "Warm Even In Chilly Waters, Taiwan's Sheico Group Dominates The Wet Suit Market" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesasia/2014/08/27/taiwans-sheico-group-dominate-in-water-sports/#1784cdfc169d) . Forbes Asia magazine. 2014-08-27. ^ Jump up to: a b "Milestone" (http://www.sheico.com.tw/en-ww/about/milestone.php) . SHEICO . Retrieved 2016-11-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Why Sheiflex" (http://www.sheiflex.com.tw/en-ww/about/about.php) . Sheiflex, SHEICO Group . Retrieved 2016-11-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "How has the COVID-19 pandemic affected outdoor recreation in America? | Penn State University" (https://www.psu.edu/news/health-and-human-development/story/how-has-covid-19-pandemic-affected-outdoor-recreation-america/) . www.psu.edu . Retrieved 2022-12-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "ENQUÊTE. Crise du néoprène : pas de combinaison sous le sapin à Noël ?" (https://www.francetvinfo.fr/decouverte/noel/enquete-crise-du-neoprene-pas-de-combinaison-sous-le-sapin-a-noel_4889387.html) . Franceinfo (in French). 2021-12-24 . Retrieved 2022-12-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) 聯合新聞網 (2022-01-13). "宜蘭在地企業捐6500萬元 打造羅運地標全齡風雨樂活館" (https://udn.com/news/story/7328/6031619) . 聯合新聞網 (in Chinese) . Retrieved 2022-12-23 . External links [ edit ] Sheico (https://www.facebook.com/sheicogroup) on Facebook (/wiki/Facebook_(identifier)) This article about a Taiwanese corporation or company is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sheico&action=edit) . v t e This water sports (/wiki/Water_sport_(recreation)) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sheico&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐npf5w Cached time: 20240712163349 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.575 seconds Real time usage: 1.004 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1726/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 29041/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1095/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 47700/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.396/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 15895610/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 835.737 1 -total 43.75% 365.672 1 Template:Infobox_company 41.53% 347.099 1 Template:Infobox 21.10% 176.326 1 Template:Reflist 17.15% 143.349 10 Template:Cite_web 16.56% 138.404 1 Template:Lang 11.25% 94.050 1 Template:Taiwan-company-stub 11.19% 93.559 2 Template:Asbox 10.77% 89.995 1 Template:Facebook 10.46% 87.391 1 Template:Portal Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:846806-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712163349 and revision id 1181920254. 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Large leather glove worn by baseball players This article is about the glove used by defensive players. For gloves worn by batters, see Batting glove (/wiki/Batting_glove) . "Right-handed" baseball glove worn on the left hand of center fielder Willie Mays (/wiki/Willie_Mays) during the 1954 World Series. A baseball glove or mitt [a] (#cite_note-1) is a large glove worn by baseball (/wiki/Baseball) players of the defending team, which assists players in catching and fielding balls hit by a batter (/wiki/Batter_(baseball)) or thrown by a teammate. Gloves are traditionally made of leather; but today other options exist, such as PVC (/wiki/PVC) and synthetic leather (/wiki/Synthetic_leather) . [1] (#cite_note-2) By convention, the glove is described by the handedness (/wiki/Handedness) of the intended wearer, rather than the hand on which the glove is worn: a glove that fits on the left hand—used by a right-handed thrower—is called a right-handed (RH) or "right-hand throw" (RHT) glove. Conversely, a left-handed glove (LH or LHT) is worn on the right hand, allowing the player to throw the ball with the left hand. History [ edit ] Bid McPhee (/wiki/Bid_McPhee) simulating playing second base without a glove Early baseball was a game played without gloves. During the gradual transition to gloves, a player who continued to play without one was called a barehanded catcher; this did not refer to the position of catcher (/wiki/Catcher) , but rather to the practice of catching with bare hands. The earliest glove was not webbed and not particularly well suited for catching but was used more to swat a ball to the ground so that it could be picked up. [2] (#cite_note-3) An 1885 glove patent One of the first players believed to have used a baseball glove was Doug Allison (/wiki/Doug_Allison) , a catcher for the Cincinnati Red Stockings (/wiki/Cincinnati_Red_Stockings) , in 1870, due to an injured left hand. [3] (#cite_note-4) The first confirmed glove use was by Charlie Waitt (/wiki/Charlie_Waitt) , a St. Louis outfielder and first baseman who, in 1875, donned a pair of flesh-colored gloves. Glove use slowly caught on as more and more players began using different forms of gloves. Many early baseball gloves were simple leather gloves with the fingertips cut off, supposedly to allow for the same control of a bare hand but with extra padding. Pitcher, first baseman and outfielder Albert Spalding (/wiki/Albert_Spalding) , originally skeptical of glove use, influenced more infielders to begin using gloves. Spalding later founded the sporting goods company Spalding (/wiki/Spalding_(sports_equipment)) , which still manufactures baseball gloves, along with other sports equipment. [4] (#cite_note-Bennett-5) By the mid-1890s, it was normal for players to wear gloves in the field. [5] (#cite_note-:0-6) A.G. Spalding & Bros. advertisement for infielder gloves, 1905 In the early 1900s baseball glove manufacturers started experimenting with a "full web" or "web-pocketed" gloves, [6] (#cite_note-7) [7] (#cite_note-8) gloves with a small 0.5 ~ 1 piece of leather connecting the thumb and index finger. Unlike current webbing, this was often made of a single piece of leather fully connected to both fingers of the glove, not with strips of leather connecting both sides of the glove as would be seen starting in the 1920s. John Snell attributes the decrease in errors over the course of the beginning of the 1900s in part to this change in glove design, and argues that "This modification to the glove represented a fundamental change in the way the glove was perceived; it was no longer merely a piece of protective gear but rather a specialized tool for better fielding". [8] (#cite_note-9) In 1920 (/wiki/1920_in_baseball) , Bill Doak (/wiki/Bill_Doak) , a pitcher for the St. Louis Cardinals (/wiki/St._Louis_Cardinals) , suggested that a web be placed between the first finger and the thumb in order to create a pocket. This design soon became the standard for baseball gloves. Doak patented his design and sold it to Rawlings. His design became the precursor to modern gloves and enabled Rawlings (/wiki/Rawlings_(company)) to become the preferred glove of professional players. [9] (#cite_note-Stamp-10) For many years, it was customary for fielders to leave their gloves on the field when their team went in to bat. This practice was prohibited by the major leagues in 1954 (/wiki/1954_in_baseball) . [10] (#cite_note-Feldman-11) Baseball gloves have grown progressively larger since their inception. While catching in baseball had always been two-handed, gloves eventually grew to a size that made it easier to catch the ball in the webbing of the glove, using the off-hand to keep the ball from falling out. A glove is typically worn on the non-dominant hand, leaving the dominant hand for throwing the ball; for example, a right-handed player would wear a glove on their left hand. The shape and size of the baseball glove are governed by official baseball rules. Section 3.00 - EQUIPMENT AND UNIFORMS specifies glove dimensions and materials in parts 3.04 through 3.07. [11] (#cite_note-12) Modern day [ edit ] The structure and quality of the baseball glove have developed greatly over the past century. Today, the production of baseball gloves is much more precise and efficient. This has greatly increased the usefulness and accessibility of baseball gloves to the general population. Currently, Easton is "experimenting with combining leather and Kevlar (used in bullet-proof vests) in a new ultra-lightweight glove line". [4] (#cite_note-Bennett-5) Manufacturers have also designed new, non-traditional types of gloves to suit non-traditional players. Also, manufacturers are personalizing gloves for high-caliber players to help increase their exposure on national television. Although there have been numerous advances in baseball glove design, the greatest arguably came with the advent of the catcher's mitt. Yet despite state-of-the-art mitts being used by catchers, a Wake Forest University (/wiki/Wake_Forest_University) study of 39 U.S. minor-league players demonstrated that the mitts still do not offer enough protection from hand and wrist injuries. The highest-quality baseball gloves are typically made of heavy leather. These heavy leather gloves usually take more time for the player to break in. They also provide a tighter, more personalized fit for the player. This is an improvement from youth and recreational gloves, which tend to feature palm pads and/or adjustable Velcro (/wiki/Velcro) wrist straps. These gloves take less time to break in or are pre-broken in, are less personal and more "one size fits all". [12] (#cite_note-13) A custom-made "Rolin" baseball glove Varieties [ edit ] Baseball gloves are measured by starting at the top of the index finger of the glove and measuring down the finger, along the inside of the pocket and then out to the heel of the glove. Gloves typically range in size from 9 inches (229 mm) (youth starter size) to 12 + 3 ⁄ 4 inches (324 mm) for adult outfield play. [5] (#cite_note-:0-6) Catcher's mitts, unlike those of other gloves, are measured around the circumference, and they typically have 32-to-34-inch (813–864 mm) patterns. The shape and size of a glove are described by its pattern. Modern gloves have become quite specialized, with position-specific patterns: Catcher's mitts are called "mitts" because they lack individual fingers, like mittens. They have extra padding and a hinged, claw-like shape that helps them funnel fastballs into the pocket and provide a good target for pitchers. Some catchers use mitts with phosphorescent paint around the ridges to provide a clearer target for the pitcher. In addition, catcher's mitts come in single hinge and dual-hinge varieties. If required to catch a knuckleball (/wiki/Knuckleball) , a catcher will typically use an even larger mitt. Some knuckleball catchers have even experimented using first baseman's mitts, as described below. First baseman's mitts also lack individual fingers. They are generally very long and wide to help them pick or scoop badly thrown balls from infielders. These mitts usually have 12 + 1 ⁄ 2 -to- 12 + 3 ⁄ 4 -inch (318–324 mm) patterns, measured from wrist to the tip. Because first basemen are often left-handed, first basemen's mitts are readily available to fit on the right hand. Hank Greenberg (/wiki/Hank_Greenberg) is often credited as the first to wear this style of the glove in the field. [13] (#cite_note-14) Some catchers, such as Victor Martinez (/wiki/V%C3%ADctor_Mart%C3%ADnez_(baseball)) , use a first base mitt while catching knuckleballers, though doing so comes with a disadvantage: because first basemen are rarely required to make a quick throw to another base, first base mitts tend to make the task of catching base stealers (/wiki/Stolen_base) more difficult—a task already complicated by the knuckleball's slow speed and erratic behavior. Infielders' gloves , unlike the first baseman's mitt, tend to be smaller. They have shallow pockets to allow fielders to remove the ball easily in order to make a quick throw to a base. The webbing is often open to allow dirt to pass through the glove so that infielders do not pull out a handful of dirt when trying to remove the ball from the glove. Infielder's gloves typically have 11-to-12-inch (279–305 mm) patterns. Pitchers' gloves usually have a closed, opaque webbing to allow pitchers to conceal their grip on the ball (which, in part, determines the behavior of the pitch in flight) from the batter. Pitcher-specific gloves tend to have 11 + 3 ⁄ 4 -to-12-inch (298–305 mm) patterns; some pitchers such as Gio González (/wiki/Gio_Gonz%C3%A1lez) use gloves with patterns as large as 12 + 1 ⁄ 4 inches (311 mm). Infield gloves with intricate webbing are also used by pitchers. Outfielder's gloves are usually quite long with deep pockets to help catch fly balls on the run or in a dive, and to keep outfielders from having to bend down as far to field a ground ball. These gloves typically have 12-to- 12 + 3 ⁄ 4 -inch (305–324 mm) patterns, measured from wrist to the tip. They are frequently worn-in differently from those of infielders, with a flatter squeeze rather than the infielder's rounded style. Left-hand throw gloves are any of the gloves above, but designed to be worn on the right hand (for left-handed players). Players that utilize the left-hand throw gloves such as Tony Gwynn (/wiki/Tony_Gwynn) or Sandy Koufax (/wiki/Sandy_Koufax) are most frequently pitchers, first basemen, or outfielders. Switch-thrower's gloves are gloves with a second thumb pocket on the opposite side of the glove, to allow it to be worn on either side of the hand. At the major league level, this glove has been used only by switch-pitcher Pat Venditte (/wiki/Pat_Venditte#Pitching_style) . [14] (#cite_note-15) Sliding mitts were introduced in the 2010s as an evolution of earlier wrist guards that protect runners who slide onto base. Major glove manufacturers [ edit ] 44 Pro Gloves (/w/index.php?title=44_Pro_Gloves&action=edit&redlink=1) [15] (#cite_note-16) Akadema (/wiki/Akadema) Easton (/wiki/BRG_Sports) Hillerich & Bradsby (/wiki/Hillerich_%26_Bradsby) , under the Louisville Slugger brand name Marucci (/wiki/Marucci) Mizuno (/wiki/Mizuno_Corp.) Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) Nokona (/wiki/Nocona_Athletic_Goods_Company) Rawlings (/wiki/Rawlings_(company)) Spalding (/wiki/Spalding_(sports_equipment)) SSK Corporation (/w/index.php?title=SSK_Corporation&action=edit&redlink=1) Warstic (/wiki/Warstic) Wilson (/wiki/Wilson_Sporting_Goods) See also [ edit ] Baseball portal (/wiki/Portal:Baseball) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Baseball clothing and equipment (/wiki/Baseball_clothing_and_equipment) Wicket-keeper's gloves (/wiki/Wicket-keeper%27s_gloves) , a similar glove used in cricket Nobuyoshi Tsubota (/wiki/Nobuyoshi_Tsubota) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) The main difference between baseball gloves and mitts is that gloves have fingers and mitts don't, and the first basemen and catcher are the only positions allowed to use mitts. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-2) "What are Baseball Gloves Made of?" (https://ecosports.com/blogs/vegan-athletes/what-are-baseball-gloves-made-of) . Eco Sports . Retrieved 2024-04-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The greatest of baseball's bare-handed catchers" (https://www.denverpost.com/2013/07/25/the-greatest-of-baseballs-bare-handed-catchers/) . The Denver Post . 2013-07-25 . Retrieved 2019-12-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Baseball 'Glove Affairs'". (https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1413207) NPR . 4 September 2008. 27 June 2008. ^ Jump up to: a b Bennett, R. (2006, March 31). Glovology TCS Daily. ^ Jump up to: a b Baseball Glove Sizing Charts (http://www.hitrunscore.com/baseball-glove-buyers-guide.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100220093435/http://www.hitrunscore.com/baseball-glove-buyers-guide.html) February 20, 2010, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Snell, John. "Vintage Baseball Glove Dating Guide: 1900 - 1909 Gloves & Mitts" (https://keymancollectibles.com/glovesmitts/fullwebgloves.htm) . keymancollectibles.com . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Snell, John. "The Invention of the Baseball Glove: The Case for the Forgotten 1901 Web-Pocketed Glove" (https://sabr.org/journal/article/the-invention-of-the-baseball-glove-the-case-for-the-forgotten-1901-web-pocketed-glove/) . sabr.org . Society for American Baseball Research. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Snell, John. "The Invention of the Baseball Glove: The Case for the Forgotten 1901 Web-Pocketed Glove" (https://sabr.org/journal/article/the-invention-of-the-baseball-glove-the-case-for-the-forgotten-1901-web-pocketed-glove/) . sabr.org . Society for American Baseball Research. ^ (#cite_ref-Stamp_10-0) Stamp, Jimmy. "The Invention of the Baseball Mitt" (http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/the-invention-of-the-baseball-mitt-12799848/) . www.smithsonianmag.com . Smithsonian.com . Retrieved 27 April 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-Feldman_11-0) Feldman, Jay (February 20, 1984). "Of Mice And Mitts, And Of A Rule That Helped To Clean Up Baseball" (http://cnnsi.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1121759/index.htm) . Sports Illustrated . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Official Baseball Rules" (https://img.mlbstatic.com/mlb-images/image/upload/mlb/atcjzj9j7wrgvsm8wnjq.pdf) (PDF) (2021 ed.). Office of the Commissioner of Baseball (/wiki/Commissioner_of_Baseball) . May 10, 2021. pp. 7–9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-62937-893-0 . Retrieved August 17, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Brief History Behind The Baseball Glove Invention" (https://highpointbaseball.com/equipment/best-baseball-gloves-under-100/) . High Point Baseball . 2019-10-04 . Retrieved 2019-12-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Hank Greenberg" by Ralph Berger, The Baseball Biography Project (http://bioproj.sabr.org/bioproj.cfm?a=v&bid=702&pid=0) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100329180438/http://bioproj.sabr.org/bioproj.cfm?a=v&bid=702&pid=0) March 29, 2010, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Baseball Glove Features" (http://www.baseballglovereview.com/baseball-glove-features/) ^ (#cite_ref-16) Reed, David (April 24, 2023). "44 Pro Gloves Reviews" (https://softballpoint.com/44-pro-gloves-review/) . Softball Point . Retrieved May 28, 2023 . 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British eCommerce business Boo.com Company type Dutch NV (/wiki/Naamloze_Vennootschap) (Disestablished in 2000) Industry retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded 17 March 1999 ; 25 years ago ( 1999-03-17 ) [1] (#cite_note-1) Defunct 2000 ( 2000 ) Headquarters London (/wiki/London) , England Key people Ernst Malmsten Kajsa Leander Patrik Hedelin Products clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) Website Boo.com (https://web.archive.org/*/http://www.boo.com) (Domain now owned by Hostelworld) Boo.com was a short-lived British eCommerce (/wiki/ECommerce) business, founded in 1998 by Swedes (/wiki/Swedes) Ernst Malmsten, Kajsa Leander and Patrik Hedelin, who were regarded as sophisticated Internet entrepreneurs in Europe by the investors because they had created an online bookstore named Bokus (/w/index.php?title=Bokus&action=edit&redlink=1) .com, the third largest book e-retailer (in 1997), before founding boo.com. [2] (#cite_note-Boo_Introduction_addition-2) [3] (#cite_note-Wray-3) After several highly publicized delays, Boo.com launched in the autumn of 1999 selling branded fashion apparel over the Internet (/wiki/Internet) . The company spent $135 million of venture capital (/wiki/Venture_capital) in just 18 months, [4] (#cite_note-boohoo-4) and it was placed into receivership (/wiki/Receivership) on 18 May 2000 and liquidated (/wiki/Liquidated) . In June 2008, CNET (/wiki/CNET) hailed Boo.com as one of the greatest dot-com busts in history. [5] (#cite_note-5) Ernst Malmsten wrote about the experience in a book called Boo Hoo: A dot.com Story from Concept to Catastrophe , published in 2001. [4] (#cite_note-boohoo-4) Marketing plan [ edit ] Company vision [ edit ] Boo.com was intended to become the largest online sports e-retailer in the world, planning to set up stores in both Europe and America simultaneously. [2] (#cite_note-Boo_Introduction_addition-2) Brand name [ edit ] The brand name was initially suggested as Bo.com, which was inspired by the actress Bo Derek (/wiki/Bo_Derek) . The final domain name, Boo.com, was bought for $2500 from a dealer as the domain Bo.com was already in use. [6] (#cite_note-Boo_brand_name-6) Strategy [ edit ] The target customers of Boo.com were young, wealthy and fashionable people between 18 and 24 years old, who were expected to be attracted by sports and fashion brands offered by Boo.com. [2] (#cite_note-Boo_Introduction_addition-2) Boo.com created a virtual shopping assistant, Miss Boo, to assist customers with tips given at each step. Boo.com also developed technology that allowed online customers to put their chosen products onto 3D models and then inspect the result. [7] (#cite_note-Boo_brand_strategy-7) Headquarters and relaunch [ edit ] The company had its headquarters along Carnaby Street (/wiki/Carnaby_Street) in London (/wiki/London) . [3] (#cite_note-Wray-3) The company initially had 40 employees. [8] (#cite_note-Sorkin-8) In October 1999, it had a total of eight offices and 400 employees [3] (#cite_note-Wray-3) in Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam) , Munich (/wiki/Munich) , New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , Paris (/wiki/Paris) , and Stockholm (/wiki/Stockholm) . [8] (#cite_note-Sorkin-8) It relaunched in the autumn of 2000 with Kate Buggeln, an ex- Bloomingdale's (/wiki/Bloomingdale%27s) salesperson and Internet consultant, appointed as president. She told Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) that they were working to "expand beyond the portal business model into Boo products and Boo licensing." [9] (#cite_note-9) Reasons for failure [ edit ] Timing [ edit ] Although there were several months of delays prior to launch and problems with the user experience when boo.com first launched, these had been largely fixed by the time the company entered receivership. Sales had grown rapidly and were around $500,000 for the fortnight prior to the site being shut down. The fundamental problem was that the company was following an extremely aggressive growth plan, launching simultaneously in multiple European countries. This plan was founded on the assumption of the ready availability of venture capital money to see the company through the first few years of trading until sales caught up with operating expenses. Such capital ceased to be available for all practical purposes in the second quarter of 2000 following dramatic falls in the NASDAQ presaging the "dot crash" following the dot-com bubble (/wiki/Dot-com_bubble) . Boo was one of numerous similar dot-com company (/wiki/Dot-com_company) failures over the subsequent two years. One Boo.com manager acknowledges that the company's failure was that global marketing and advertising costs too much, and that managers and technology invest too little. It spent $135 million of its investment in 2 years. [10] (#cite_note-10) Problems with users experience [ edit ] The Boo.com Homepage as it appeared in May 2000. The boo.com website was widely criticized as poorly designed for its target audience, going against many usability (/wiki/Usability) conventions. [11] (#cite_note-11) The site relied heavily on JavaScript (/wiki/JavaScript) and Flash (/wiki/Adobe_Flash) technology to display pseudo-3D (/wiki/Pseudo-3D) views of wares as well as Miss Boo, a sales-assistant-style avatar (/wiki/Avatar_(computing)) . The first publicly released version of the site included many large pages; the home page, for example, was several hundred kilobytes which meant that many users had to wait minutes for the site to load, as broadband (/wiki/Broadband) technologies were not widely available at the time. The site's front page contained the warning, "this site is designed for 56K modems and above". The complicated design required the site to be displayed in a fixed-size window, which limited the space available to display product information to the customer. Navigation techniques changed as the customer moved around the site. The site's interface was complex and included a hierarchical system that required the user to answer four or five different questions before sometimes revealing that there were no products in stock in a particular sub-section. The same basic questions then had to be answered again until results were found. Excessive expenditure on marketing [ edit ] Within 18 months, $135 million was spent on marketing by Boo.com. [12] (#cite_note-Boo_failure-12) Boo.com spent $25 million on advertising (/wiki/Advertising) and public relations (/wiki/Public_relations) marketing before it had even opened to sell products. To attract consumers, the site developed a new Internet virtual technology with which consumers could drag their intended clothes onto a virtual 3D body model, and then view it from whatever angles and distance they wanted. The investment in this technology cost Boo.com over $6 million to develop and $0.5 million every month to maintain. Burn rate [ edit ] Boo.com spent £125 million in just six months. [13] (#cite_note-Firesale-13) Boo.com's sales did not match expectations, due partly to a higher-than-expected rate of product returns (a service that was offered for free, but charged for by their logistics supplier Deutsche Post (/wiki/Deutsche_Post) ). Poor management and a lack of communication between departments resulted in rapid growth in costs. The effectiveness of an expensive ad campaign was limited since the website was not ready in time, resulting in curious visitors being greeted with a holding page. Staff and contractors were recruited in large numbers, with a lack of direction and executive decision about how many people were required, resulting in high payroll costs. Aftermath [ edit ] The biggest loser among boo.com's investors was Omnia, a fund backed by members of Lebanon (/wiki/Lebanon) 's wealthy Hariri family (/wiki/Rafic_Hariri) , which put nearly £20 million into the company. Creditors, most of whom were advertising agencies, were owed around £12 million. Over 400 staff and contractors were made redundant in London and around the world, and many had not been paid for several months. In a widely circulated article, [14] (#cite_note-14) former Interim CTO Tristan Louis (/wiki/Tristan_Louis) broke down the problems that plagued the company, in one of the first post-mortems (/wiki/Postmortem_documentation) of a technology company posted online. Fashionmall.com, which had been operating since 1994, bought the remains of Boo.com, which included brand, web address and advertising materials but did not include any physical assets, software or distribution channels. [13] (#cite_note-Firesale-13) The deal also included the Miss Boo character. Boo's main assets, its software and technology, were sold to Bright Station (/wiki/Dan_Wagner#Bright_Station) [ broken anchor ] , a British company run by Internet (/wiki/Internet) entrepreneur Dan Wagner (/wiki/Dan_Wagner) , for $250,000 and served as the basis for Venda Inc (/wiki/Venda_Inc) . [13] (#cite_note-Firesale-13) Wagner credited the technology he acquired as key to the success of Venda (and its eventual acquisition by NetSuite (/wiki/NetSuite) for US$50M in 2014). Less than $2 million was earned by selling all Boo's remaining assets. [15] (#cite_note-15) Of the original global boo.com staff only one worked for both boo.com incarnations. Bill Burley of the original boo.com staff in New York City is a retail executive in buying and merchandise planning. Burley was hired by fashionmall as the Global Fashion Director of the new boo. He reported directly to Ms. Buggeln. [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2005 CNET (/wiki/CNET) called Boo.com the sixth greatest dot-com flop. [17] (#cite_note-17) Current state of the domain [ edit ] In May 2007 Web Reservations International (WRI) turned boo.com into a travel site with reviews and listings. When the new site launched, it already had more than one million user reviews which had been collected from existing WRI travel sites. [18] (#cite_note-18) In October 2010, the new boo.com site announced that it was closing down with effect from 1 November 2010. As of July 2020 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Boo.com&action=edit) boo.com redirects to hostelworld.com. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Boo.com WHOIS, DNS, & Domain Info – DomainTools" (http://whois.domaintools.com/boo.com) . WHOIS (/wiki/WHOIS) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Chaffey, Dave; Ellis-Chadwick, Fiona (2016). Digital Marketing Strategy, Implementation and Practice (sixth ed.). Harlow: Pearson Education Limited. p. 108. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-292-07761-1 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Wray, Richard. " Boo.com spent fast and died young but its legacy shaped internet retailing (https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2005/may/16/media.business) ." The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . 16 May 2005. Retrieved on 12 March 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b Malmsten, Ernst (2001). Boo Hoo: A dot.com Story from Concept to Catastrophe . Random House Business Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7126-7239-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "The greatest defunct Web sites and dotcom disasters" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130226015839/http://crave.cnet.co.uk/gadgets/the-greatest-defunct-web-sites-and-dotcom-disasters-49296926/) . CNET (/wiki/CNET) . 5 June 2008. Archived from the original (http://crave.cnet.co.uk/gadgets/the-greatest-defunct-web-sites-and-dotcom-disasters-49296926/) on 26 February 2013 . Retrieved 5 June 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-Boo_brand_name_6-0) Malmsten, Ernst; Portanger, Erik; Drazin, Charles (2001). Boo Hoo. A Dot.Com Story from Concept of Catastrophe . London: Random House. ^ (#cite_ref-Boo_brand_strategy_7-0) Chaffey, Dave; Ellis-Chadwick, Fiona (2016). Digital Marketing Strategy, Implementation and Practice (sixth ed.). Harlow: Pearson Education Limited. p. 109. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-292-07761-1 . ^ Jump up to: a b Sorkin, Andrew Ross. " INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS; Boo.com, Online Fashion Retailer, Goes Out of Business (https://www.nytimes.com/2000/05/19/business/international-business-boocom-online-fashion-retailer-goes-out-of-business.html) ." The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . 19 May 2000. Retrieved on 12 March 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Seckler, Valerie, "Boo Names New Boss: Kate Buggelin," WWD, Mon. 17 July 2000, p.14 ^ (#cite_ref-10) Boocom公司为何倒闭 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Site Comment: Boo.com (Bohmann Usability)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110605213429/http://www.bohmann.dk/articles/usability_reviews/boo_com.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.bohmann.dk/articles/usability_reviews/boo_com.html) on 5 June 2011 . Retrieved 7 October 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-Boo_failure_12-0) Roggio, Armando (29 December 2014). "2 Ecommerce Blunders to Avoid in 2015" (https://www.practicalecommerce.com/2-Ecommerce-Blunders-to-Avoid-in-2015) . Practical Ecommerce . Retrieved 6 March 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS; Fashionmall.com Swoops in for the Boo.com Fire Sale" (https://www.nytimes.com/2000/06/02/business/international-business-fashionmallcom-swoops-in-for-the-boocom-fire-sale.html) . The New York Times . 2 June 2000 . Retrieved 5 February 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Tristan Louis (TNL.net)" (http://www.tnl.net/who/bibliography/learned-boo-com//) . Tristan Louis (TNL.net) . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "jobfairy.com – Boo! And the 100 Other Dumbest Moments in e-Business History" (http://www.jobfairy.com/articles01/BooAndthe100OtherDumbestM.html) . jobfairy.com . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Boo back in business, this time on a budget" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/4470630/Boo-back-in-business-this-time-on-a-budget.html) . 30 October 2000. ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Top 10 dot-com flops" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140210101028/http://www.cnet.com/1990-11136_1-6278387-1.html) . Archived from the original (https://www.cnet.com/1990-11136_1-6278387-1.html) on 10 February 2014 . Retrieved 10 February 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "boo.com in new travel guise" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070928014939/http://www.utalkmarketing.com/Article.aspx?id=1895) . utalkmarketing.com . 2 May 2007. Archived from the original (http://www.utalkmarketing.com/Article.aspx?id=1895) on 28 September 2007 . Retrieved 18 May 2007 . 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Clothing code based on event or occasion "Dresscode" redirects here. For other uses, see Dresscode (disambiguation) (/wiki/Dresscode_(disambiguation)) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Dress_code) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Dress code" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Dress+code%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Dress+code%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Dress+code%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Dress+code%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Dress+code%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Dress+code%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2008 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/Cannes_Film_Festival) has a dress code that requires men to wear tuxedos (/wiki/Tuxedo) and women to wear gowns (/wiki/Gown) and high-heeled shoes (/wiki/High-heeled_shoes) . [1] (#cite_note-1) A dress code is a set of rules, often written, with regard to what clothing (/wiki/Clothing) groups of people must wear. Dress codes are created out of social perceptions and norms, and vary based on purpose, circumstances, and occasions. Different societies and cultures are likely to have different dress codes, Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) being a prominent example. Dress codes are symbolic indications of different social ideas, including social class (/wiki/Social_class) , cultural identity (/wiki/Cultural_identity) , attitude (/wiki/Attitude_(psychology)) towards comfort, tradition, and political or religious affiliations. Dress code also allows individuals to read others' behavior as good, or bad by the way they express themselves with their choice of apparel. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) History [ edit ] Europe [ edit ] See also: Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) , Sumptuary laws (/wiki/Sumptuary_laws) , and English medieval clothing (/wiki/English_medieval_clothing) From the seventh through the ninth centuries, the European royalty (/wiki/Royal_family) and nobility (/wiki/Nobility) used a dress code to differentiate themselves from other people. All classes generally wore the same clothing, although distinctions among the social hierarchy began to become more noticeable through ornamented garments. Common pieces of clothing worn by peasants and the working class included plain tunics (/wiki/Tunic) , cloaks, jackets, pants, and shoes. According to rank, embellishments adorned the collar of the tunic, waist or border. Examples of these decorations included, as James Planché (/wiki/James_Planch%C3%A9) states, "gold and silver chains and crosses, bracelets of gold, silver or ivory, golden and jeweled belts, strings of amber and other beads, rings, brooches, [and] buckles". [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) The nobility tended to wear longer tunics than the lower social classes. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) While dress codes of modern-day Europeans are less strict, there are some exceptions. It is possible to ban certain types of clothing in the workplace, as exemplified by the European Court of Justice's verdict that "a ban on Islamic headscarves at work can be lawful." [4] (#cite_note-4) The Americas [ edit ] The indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Pacific_Northwest_Coast) had a complex social hierarchy that consisted of slaves, commoners, and nobles, with dress codes indicating these social distinctions. John R. Jewitt (/wiki/John_R._Jewitt) , an Englishman who wrote a memoir about his years as a captive of the Nuu-chah-nulth people (/wiki/Nuu-chah-nulth_people) in 1802-1805, describes how, after some time living there, Maquinna (/wiki/Maquinna) and the chiefs decided that he must now be "considered one of them, and conform to their customs". Jewitt resented the imposition of this dress code, finding the loose untailored garments very cold, and attributed to them a subsequent illness of which he almost died. He was not allowed to cut his hair and had to paint his face and body as a Nootka would. [5] (#cite_note-5) In the early 20th century, informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) was the norm across many social settings, including workplaces, restaurants, travel, and movie theaters. In the 1950s, casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) became prominent in many of these settings, but informal wear remained dominant in workplaces and churches. Beginning in the 1980s, technology companies (/wiki/Technology_companies) in Silicon Valley developed the business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) dress code, which was part of a broader organizational culture of emphasizing efficiency over propriety. Today, casual wear is the norm in the tech industry, exemplified by tech executives such as Steve Jobs (/wiki/Steve_Jobs) and Mark Zuckerberg (/wiki/Mark_Zuckerberg) . [6] (#cite_note-theatlantic-american-casual-6) In North American high schools, fashion for girls began to be more revealing in the late twentieth century, including clothing such as low-rise jeans, revealing tops, miniskirts, and spaghetti straps. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) With these new styles appearing in schools, dress codes have in some cases become more rigorous as a result. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) The dress codes in North American high schools typically resulted in tests that would determine if skirts or shorts were long enough. A common test would be used to measure the appropriate length of students' shorts/skirts. If a student's fingers extended past their clothing, then the clothing was considered a violation of the school dress code. [7] (#cite_note-7) Muslim world [ edit ] Main article: Haram § Clothing and adornment (/wiki/Haram#Clothing_and_adornment) Islam (/wiki/Islam) , founded in the seventh century CE, laid out rules regarding the attire of both men and women in public. Gold adornments and silk clothes are prohibited (/wiki/Haram) for men to wear, as they are luxurious, but they are permissible for women. Men are also required to wear the ihram (/wiki/Ihram_clothing) clothing while on Hajj (/wiki/Hajj) , or annual pilgrimage to Mecca (/wiki/Mecca) . Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) generally refers to various head coverings conventionally worn by some Muslim women, [8] (#cite_note-8) most often a headscarf wrapped around the head, covering the hair, neck and ears, but leaving the face visible. [9] (#cite_note-eogr-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) The use of the hijab has been on the rise worldwide since the 1970s and is viewed by many Muslims as expressing modesty and faith. [9] (#cite_note-eogr-9) There is a consensus among Islamic religious scholars that covering the head is either required or preferred, though some Muslim scholars and activists argue that it is not mandated. [11] (#cite_note-The_Quran_Does_Not_Mandate_Hijab-11) [12] (#cite_note-auto2-12) [13] (#cite_note-Asra-2015-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) Indian subcontinent [ edit ] Sikhism (/wiki/Sikhism) , which was founded in the Indian subcontinent around the end of the fifteenth century, also requires a dress code. Male Sikhs, who are members of the Khalsa (/wiki/Khalsa) are required to wear a turban at all times. Laws and social norms [ edit ] Main article: Clothing laws by country (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) Cultural values, norms, and laws regarding clothing can vary by location. For example, the degree of nudity that is acceptable changes depending on location. In New Guinea (/wiki/New_Guinea) and Vanuatu (/wiki/Vanuatu) , there are areas where it is customary for men to wear nothing but penis sheaths in public, while women wear string skirts. In remote areas of Bali (/wiki/Bali) , women may go topless (/wiki/Toplessness) , which is less common in more Western countries. Most developed countries have generally no rules regarding specific clothing in most public scenarios. Private dress codes [ edit ] Black tie standard Many places have their own private dress code; these organizations may insist on particular dress codes or standards in particular situations. Such as for weddings, funerals, religious gatherings, etc. A study was conducted on two different Christian schools, both located in the United States were surveyed on their dress code appearance. [15] (#cite_note-:8-15) Both Christian schools were run by a board of education which was independent with a Church, and both schools implemented school uniforms two years before they even got an interview to attend the private school. [15] (#cite_note-:8-15) After interviews were done, and the data was all collected, the school uniform was a purpose to achieve four goals that were to decrease distractions in the academic environment, show students how to dress appropriately, eliminate competition, and lower the cost of families buying school clothes for their children. [15] (#cite_note-:8-15) Workplace [ edit ] Canadian Deputy PM (/wiki/Deputy_Prime_Minister_of_Canada) Chrystia Freeland (/wiki/Chrystia_Freeland) with U.S. Secretary of State (/wiki/United_States_Secretary_of_State) Rex Tillerson (/wiki/Rex_Tillerson) in Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) at a meeting Employees are sometimes required to wear a uniform (/wiki/Uniform) or certain standards of dress, such as a business suit and tie. This may depend on particular situations, for example if they are expected to interact with customers. (See also International standard business attire (/wiki/International_standard_business_attire) ) In Western countries, these policies vary depending on the industry. Lawyers (/wiki/Lawyers) , bankers (/wiki/Bankers) , and executives (/wiki/Executive_(management)) often wearing a suit and tie, while casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) is more common in the technology industry (/wiki/Technology_industry) . [6] (#cite_note-theatlantic-american-casual-6) Some businesses observe that anti-discrimination laws restricts their determining what is appropriate and inappropriate workplace clothing. Requiring men and women to dress differently at the workplace can be challenged because the gender-specific dress codes would be based on one sex and could be considered stereotypical. [16] (#cite_note-:0-16) Most businesses have authority in determining and establishing what workplace clothes they can require of their workers. Generally, a carefully drafted dress code applied consistently does not violate anti-discrimination laws. [17] (#cite_note-17) So long as the dress code does not favor one gender over the other it is usually acceptable by law for employers to have a private dress code. [18] (#cite_note-18) In the United States, it is legal for employers to require women to wear makeup and ban men from wearing it. It has been argued that such a distinction in a dress code is not discriminatory because both sexes have rules about their appearance. An important court case that occurred in the U.S was the Jespersen v. Harrah's Operating Co. (/wiki/Jespersen_v._Harrah%27s_Operating_Co.) , which allowed for a workplace to require that female employees wear makeup while their male counterparts were banned from doing so. Darlene Jespersen worked at Harrah's Casino (/wiki/Harrah%27s_Entertainment) for more than 20 years and found that the makeup and dress code was not only unattainable but degrading. [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) Jespersen found that the 'Personal Best' policy was not true to her natural appearance as it required a full face of makeup including foundation, powder, blush, mascara, and lipstick. [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) Jespersen stated that this policy "forced her to be ... 'dolled up' like a sexual object, and ... took away her credibility as an individual and as a person." [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) In opposition men who worked at Harrah's Casino were banned from wearing makeup, nail polish, and other traditionally female attires. [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) Judge Kozinski (/wiki/Alex_Kozinski) argued that hyperfemininity (/wiki/Hyperestrogenism) was a burden that only women employees suffered. Kozinski stated that the time, effort and expense was more of a hindrance than just being banned from wearing makeup. [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) However despite these efforts, in the ruling, it was decided that women did not have a larger burden in the requirements of the dress code but two judges disagreed and argued that makeup takes more time and money and that sex stereotyping occurred because women's bare faces were seen as less desirable. New Jersey BorgataBabes case [ edit ] In New Jersey (/wiki/New_Jersey) , twenty-one women sued the Borgata Casino Hotel & Spa (/wiki/Borgata) for requiring them to lose weight and stay under a certain size to maintain their jobs. The women argued that the management would ridicule them over weight gain even if they were pregnant. The case was dismissed in New Jersey because the BorgataBabes program required that both men and women maintain certain body shapes and sizes. The "BorgataBabes contractually agreed to adhere to these strict personal appearance and conduct standards". [20] (#cite_note-20) In 2016, Superior Court Judge Nelson Johnson (/wiki/Nelson_Johnson) dismissed the claims because the appearance standards were lawful. He also determined that the women could return to court for their claims of a hostile environment created by the management. [21] (#cite_note-21) Workplace requirements for attire and appearance have been legal in the United States as long as there are similar requirements for both sexes. Doe v. Boeing Corporation (1993) [ edit ] Doe, a transgender (/wiki/Transgender) person beginning gender transition (/wiki/Gender_transitioning) , found that her supervisors at the engineering company, Boeing Corporation (/wiki/Boeing) , were uncooperative with her desire to wear feminine presenting clothing to work. She was warned against wearing, "obviously feminine clothing such as dresses, skirts, or frilly blouses" and from using the women's bathroom. This was even after her counselor recommended that wearing female presenting clothing would help with her transition. After a few warnings from her supervisors, Doe showed up to work wearing a pink pantsuit and was subsequently fired for violating the dress code. This prompted Doe to legal action. The Washington State Supreme Court (/wiki/Washington_Supreme_Court) ultimately upheld the decision made by Boeing and stated that the company had the right to determine what female identity looked like while at work. [19] (#cite_note-:2-19) [22] (#cite_note-justia-doe-boeing-22) Equal Employment Opportunity Commission v. R.G. &. G.R Harris Funeral Homes, Inc. [ edit ] Aimee Stephens (/wiki/Aimee_Stephens) , a transgender woman, worked at the R.G. &. G.R Harris Funeral Homes (/wiki/R.G._%26_G.R._Harris_Funeral_Homes_Inc._v._Equal_Employment_Opportunity_Commission) and originally was dressing as a stereotypical male following the funeral home's male attire, but Stephens had intended to transition to female attire to better suit her gender identity (/wiki/Gender_identity) . Thomas Rost, the owner of the funeral home, fired Stephens for not presenting herself as a man and for dressing like a woman. [23] (#cite_note-:3-23) Stephens opened a case at the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (/wiki/Equal_Employment_Opportunity_Commission) , stating discrimination based on sex and gender but the district court sided with the funeral home stating, "that transgender status is not a protected trait under Title VII (/wiki/Title_VII) ". [23] (#cite_note-:3-23) In the Sixth Circuit Court of Appeals (/wiki/United_States_Court_of_Appeals_for_the_Sixth_Circuit) , it was ruled that Stephens was unlawfully fired based on sex discrimination (/wiki/Sexism) , which does protect transgender people. [24] (#cite_note-24) The United States Supreme Court (/wiki/Supreme_Court_of_the_United_States) ruled in 2020 against firing someone for being homosexual or transgender, as being discrimination based on sex. [25] (#cite_note-25) The CROWN Act [ edit ] The CROWN act, standing for 'create a respectful and open world for natural hair' is a California law that prohibits discrimination in the school and workplace based on the style or texture of one's hair. The act was created in 2019 by Dove and the CROWN Coalition in partnership with California's State Senator Holly J. Mitchel. [26] (#cite_note-26) After a study conducted by Dove to reveal the degree of workplace discrimination towards black women, the data was used to spread awareness and elicit change for the act to be passed. CROWN continues to fight for this cause, with a recent work-study conducted in 2023 revealing that discrimination regarding hair texture still prevails. As of June 2023, 23 US states have enacted the CROWN act into law. [27] (#cite_note-27) Formal wear [ edit ] Main article: Formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) In Western countries, a "formal" dress code typically means coats for men and evening dresses (/wiki/Evening_gown) for women. The most-formal dress code is a full-length ball (/wiki/Ball_gown) or evening gowns (/wiki/Evening_gown) with evening gloves (/wiki/Evening_gloves) for women and for men white tie (/wiki/White_tie) , which also includes a tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) . "Semi-formal" has a much less precise definition but typically means an evening jacket and tie for men (known as black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) ) and a dress for women. "Business casual" typically means not wearing neckties (/wiki/Necktie) or suits (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) , but wearing instead collared shirts, and trousers (not black, but more relaxed , including things such as corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) ). "Casual" typically just means clothing for the torso, legs and shoes. "Wedding Casual" defines yet another mode of dress, where guests dress respectfully, but not necessarily fancily. Business casual [ edit ] Main article: Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Business casual dress is a popular workplace dress code that emerged in white-collar (/wiki/White-collar_worker) workplaces in Western countries (/wiki/Western_world) in the 1990s, especially in the United States and Canada. Many information technology (/wiki/Information_technology) businesses in Silicon Valley (/wiki/Silicon_Valley) were early adopters of this dress code. In contrast to formal business wear such as suits (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) and neckties (/wiki/Necktie) (the international standard business attire (/wiki/International_standard_business_attire) ), the business casual dress code has no generally accepted definition; its interpretation differs widely among organizations and is often a cause of sartorial confusion among workers. The job search engine (/wiki/Job_search_engine) Monster.com (/wiki/Monster.com) offers this definition, "In general, business casual means dressing professionally, looking relaxed, yet neat and pulled together." A more pragmatic definition is that business casual dress is the mid ground between formal business clothes and street clothes. Generally, neckties are excluded from business casual dress, unless worn in nontraditional ways. The acceptability of blue jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and denim cloth clothing varies — some businesses consider them to be sloppy and informal. Education system [ edit ] This section may contain an excessive amount of intricate detail that may interest only a particular audience . Please help by spinning off (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_forking#Article_spinoffs:_.22Summary_style.22_meta-articles_and_summary_sections) or relocating (/wiki/Wikipedia:Handling_trivia#Recommendations_for_handling_trivia) any relevant information, and removing excessive detail that may be against Wikipedia's inclusion policy (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not) . ( September 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Many schools around the world implement dress codes in the school system to prevent students from wearing inappropriate clothing items to school and was thought to help influence a safer and more professional environment. United States education [ edit ] In 1996, former U.S. President Bill Clinton (/wiki/Bill_Clinton) announced his support for the idea of school uniforms (/wiki/School_uniform) by stating, "School uniforms are one step that may help break the cycle of violence, truancy and disorder by helping young students understand what really counts is what kind of people they are." Many school districts (/wiki/School_district) in the United States took up the idea. [28] (#cite_note-28) In all 70 schools, comprising around 60,000 students, switched to school uniforms. [15] (#cite_note-:8-15) School uniforms have been used with several schools to teach students how to dress appropriately, and in cases it has worked, and has decreased distractions in the educational systems. [15] (#cite_note-:8-15) One common criticism of school dress codes in the U.S. is that they infringe on students' right to self-expression. There have been many court cases regarding school dress code, the first being Tinker v. Des Moines Independent Community School District (/wiki/Tinker_v._Des_Moines_Independent_Community_School_District) , which involved students wearing black armbands (/wiki/Armband) to protest the Vietnam war. [29] (#cite_note-29) Within the educational system, the Federation supports professional dress code standards for all teachers. [30] (#cite_note-:6-30) Dress code violations [ edit ] "Communicative" dress code violations are violations where the clothing has implications of hate, violence, gang-affiliation, etc. [31] (#cite_note-Herbon,_Beth_2000-31) In cases where dress code rules in public school systems have been violated by non-communicative clothing, courts repeatedly legitimise dress code discrimination based on gender (/wiki/Gender) . [32] (#cite_note-Smith,_Natalie_2012-32) Amongst the transgender (/wiki/Transgender) populations, gender based dress codes are primarily enforced against individuals who do not yet pass (/wiki/Passing_(gender)) . [32] (#cite_note-Smith,_Natalie_2012-32) Violation of dress codes have become a subject of school protests, such as at a high school in Toronto, which had a protest after a student was disciplined for wearing a crop top. [33] (#cite_note-33) Students at multiple schools have protested gender discrimination in the application of dress codes. [34] (#cite_note-34) Dress code backlash [ edit ] Certain dress code restrictions in schools across North America have been accused of perpetuating sexist standards. In March 2014, a group of middle-school girls from Evanston, Illinois, protested their school's dress code, which prohibited them from wearing leggings to school under the pretense that it was "too distracting for boys." Thirteen-year-old student Sophie Hasty was quoted in the Evanston Review saying that "not being able to wear leggings because it's 'too distracting for boys' is giving us the impression we should be guilty for what guys do." In a Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) magazine article covering the incident, Eliana Dockterman argued that teachers and administration in these schools are "walking the fine line between enforcing a dress code and slut shaming." [35] (#cite_note-35) School dress codes seem to also be gender-biased towards young girls. The research article, "Objectification Study on High School Girls" conducted interviews with middle school girls, one of them describing, "If they're [boys] wearing a sleeveless basketball jersey, it doesn't fully cover their shoulders. They don't usually get called out for that. Guys are not the ones that they're looking out for. So they dress code girls, so guys don't get distracted. But they don't think that girls are going to get distracted by guys' shoulders. [36] (#cite_note-36) " On Monday, September 22, 2014, "about 100 pupils walked out of Bingham high school in South Jordan, Utah" [37] (#cite_note-Carroll-37) after more than a dozen girls were turned away from a homecoming dance (/wiki/Homecoming_dance) for wearing dresses which violated the dress code. [37] (#cite_note-Carroll-37) "School staff allegedly lined up girls against a wall as they arrived and banished about two dozen for having dresses which purportedly showed too much skin and violated the rules." It is believed that this act was awkward and humiliating towards the female students, which spawned the walkouts. [37] (#cite_note-Carroll-37) In August 2021, one student's mother criticized her daughter's school for continuing to enforce clothing restrictions on girls while allowing students to opt out of mask-wearing during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) . [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) There have been several issues with dress code backlash happening to several students, such as a 15-year-old girl who attended Edmonton High school, she was banned from attending her school due to dying her hair blue, this resulted in the girl suing her principal for discrimination. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) In another case, a 16-year-old girl was sent home because she refused to take her eyebrow ring out. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) Canadian education [ edit ] Dress code backlash [ edit ] A Canadian teenager, Lauren Wiggins, was given detention in May 2015 for wearing a floor-length dress with a halter neckline. The punishment prompted Wiggins to write an open letter to the school's assistant vice principal at Harrison Trimble High School in Moncton, New Brunswick. In the letter, Wiggins concentrated specifically on the fact that females are often blamed for the behaviour of males, saying that if a boy "will get distracted by my upper back and shoulders then he needs to be sent home and practice self-control." She was then given a one-day suspension after writing and submitting the letter. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) In Ontario, Canada, there were a few backlash incidents that occurred which consisted of girls being sent home due to wearing shorts that were too short. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) The other case happened in British Columbia where students were directed to wear clothes that were in good taste, and clothing that displayed a business look. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) Another case that took place in British Columbia was a young women got sent home from her high school, because her principal stated that her shirt was inappropriate due to the show of too much cleavage. [2] (#cite_note-:7-2) These are a few of the many cases that have resulted in a backlash against dress codes. See also [ edit ] Clothing laws by country (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) Cosmetics policy (/wiki/Cosmetics_policy) Costume (/wiki/Costume) Full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) Dress clothes (/wiki/Dress_clothes) Hemline (/wiki/Hemline) High heel policy (/wiki/High_heel_policy) Nonverbal communication (/wiki/Nonverbal_communication) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Social role of hair (/wiki/Social_role_of_hair) Subculture (/wiki/Subculture) Sumptuary law (/wiki/Sumptuary_law) Uniform (/wiki/Uniform) Uniform fetishism (/wiki/Uniform_fetishism) Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Is the Cannes Film Festival's dress code sexist?" (https://thetylt.com/entertainment/kristen-stewart-cannes-film-festival) . thetylt.com . Retrieved 2019-04-08 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Pomertanz, Shauna (2007). "Cleavage in a Tank Top: Bodily Prohibition and the Discourses of School Dress Codes". Alberta Journal of Educational Research . 53 (4): 373–386. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 228639180 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/228639180) . ^ Jump up to: a b Planché, J. R. (1847). History of British Medieval Costume: From the Earliest Period to the Close of the Eighteenth Century. C. Cox . pp. 28, 32–35. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Langdon, Vedder Price PC-Esther; Maude, Jonathan (June 2017). "Dress Codes and Religious Symbols at Work in the EU | Lexology" (https://www.lexology.com/library/detail.aspx?g=8b582c90-97f7-48cc-855c-af52f8edf4d7) . www.lexology.com . Retrieved 2019-03-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) A Narrative of the Adventures and Sufferings of John R. Jewitt, Only Survivor of the Crew of the Ship Boston, During a Captivity of Nearly Three Years Among the Savages of Nootka Sound: With an Account of the Manners, Mode of Living, and Religious Opinions of the Natives . digital full text here (http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/mtq?id=328920feff&doc=90038) p161 onwards ^ Jump up to: a b Clemente, Deirdre (2017-05-22). "Why American Workers Now Dress So Casually" (https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2017/05/history-of-business-casual/526014/) . The Atlantic (/wiki/The_Atlantic) . Retrieved 2024-03-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Frazier, Karen. "Typical School Dress Codes" (https://teens.lovetoknow.com/School_Dress_Codes#:~:text=Many%20schools%20define%20the%20appropriate%20length%20of%20skirts,the%20student%27s%20arms%20are%20extended%20at%20his%2Fher%20sides.%22) . lovetoknow . Retrieved 16 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Mitchell, Travis (29 June 2021). "9. Religious clothing and personal appearance" (https://www.pewresearch.org/religion/2021/06/29/religious-clothing-and-personal-appearance/) . Retrieved 4 April 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mark Juergensmeyer, Wade Clark Roof, ed. (2012). "Hijab". Encyclopedia of Global Religion . Vol. 1. SAGE Publications. p. 516. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.4135/9781412997898 (https://doi.org/10.4135%2F9781412997898) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780761927297 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) “Hijab.” Cambridge Dictionary , dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/hijab. Accessed 6 Sept. 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-The_Quran_Does_Not_Mandate_Hijab_11-0) Syed, Ibrahim. "The Quran Does Not Mandate Hijab" (http://www.irfi.org/articles/articles_351_400/quran_does_not_mandate_hijab.htm) . Islamic Research Foundation International, Inc . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151221175749/http://www.irfi.org/articles/articles_351_400/quran_does_not_mandate_hijab.htm) from the original on 21 December 2015 . Retrieved 26 December 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-auto2_12-0) "Hijab is Not an Islamic Duty: Muslim Scholar" (http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2012/06/45564/hijab-is-not-an-islamic-duty-scholar/) . Morocco World News . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151227054847/http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2012/06/45564/hijab-is-not-an-islamic-duty-scholar/) from the original on 27 December 2015 . Retrieved 26 December 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-Asra-2015_13-0) Nomani, Asra Q.; Arafa, Hala (21 December 2015). "Opinion: As Muslim women, we actually ask you not to wear the hijab in the name of interfaith solidarity" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/acts-of-faith/wp/2015/12/21/as-muslim-women-we-actually-ask-you-not-to-wear-the-hijab-in-the-name-of-interfaith-solidarity/) . Washington Post . Retrieved 22 December 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Behind the Veil: Oppression or Assertion" (https://www.thedawnjournal.in/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/11-Dr.Shakun_3.pdf) (PDF) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230504071359/https://www.thedawnjournal.in/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/11-Dr.Shakun_3.pdf) (PDF) from the original on 4 May 2023. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Firmin, Michael; Smith, Suzanne; Perry, Lynsey (2006). "School Uniforms: A Qualitative Analysis of Aims and Accomplishments at Two Christian Schools". Journal of Research on Christian Education . 15 (2): 143–168. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/10656210609485000 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F10656210609485000) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 144932641 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:144932641) . ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 594820094 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/594820094) . {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : CS1 maint: date and year ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_date_and_year) ) ^ (#cite_ref-:0_16-0) "Employee Dress and Appearance" (https://www.shrm.org/resourcesandtools/tools-and-samples/toolkits/pages/employeedressandappearance.aspx) . Society for Human Resource Management . Retrieved 27 September 2017 . (subscription required) ^ (#cite_ref-17) Thomas, Robin. "Dress Code Legal Issues" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160314064207/http://www.ppspublishers.com/biz/dresscode.htm) . Personnel Policy Services Inc . Archived from the original (http://www.ppspublishers.com/biz/dresscode.htm) on 14 March 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Illegal Workplace Policies: Appearance, Dress Codes, and Grooming Policies" (https://www.employmentlawfirms.com/resources/employment/discrimination/illegal-workplace-policy.htm) . www.employmentlawfirms.com . Retrieved 2019-03-17 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Ainsworth, Janet (January 2014). "What's Wrong with Pink Pearls and Cornrow Braids? Employee Dress Codes and the Semiotic Performance of Race and Gender in the Workplace". Law, Culture and Visual Studies . Dordrecht Springer. pp. 241–260. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-90-481-9322-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Schiavo v. Marina District Development Company, LLC, NJ: Appellate Div. 2015 - Google Scholar" (https://scholar.google.com/scholar_case?case=4942181328196123281&q=borgata+babe&hl=en&as_sdt=20000006) . scholar.google.com . Retrieved 2021-02-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) NJ.com, Paige Gross | For (2019-05-20). "The 'Borgata Babes' who sued the casino a decade ago will get their day in court. Rules about their weight were discriminatory, they say" (https://www.nj.com/atlantic/2019/05/the-borgata-babes-who-sued-the-casino-a-decade-ago-claiming-discriminating-weight-rules-will-get-their-day-in-court.html) . nj . Retrieved 2021-02-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-justia-doe-boeing_22-0) Jane Doe v. Boeing Company , 121 Wn.2d 8 (https://law.justia.com/cases/washington/supreme-court/1993/59117-2-1.html) (Supreme Court of Washington, en banc 1993). ^ Jump up to: a b Eeoc v. Rg &. Gr Harris Funeral Homes, Inc. , vol. 884, October 4, 2017, p. 560 , retrieved February 25, 2021 , Argued: October 4, 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-24) "R.G. & G.R. Harris Funeral Homes v EEOC & Aimee Stephens" (https://www.aclu.org/cases/rg-gr-harris-funeral-homes-v-eeoc-aimee-stephens) . American Civil Liberties Union . Retrieved 2021-02-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Higgins, Tucker (2020-06-15). "Supreme Court rules workers can't be fired for being gay or transgender" (https://www.cnbc.com/2020/06/15/supreme-court-rules-workers-cant-be-fired-for-being-gay-or-transgender.html) . CNBC . Retrieved 2021-02-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) https://www.thecrownact.com/ (https://www.thecrownact.com/) ^ (#cite_ref-27) "CROWN Act: Does Your State Prohibit Hair Discrimination?" (https://www.shrm.org/topics-tools/news/inclusion-equity-diversity/crown-act-state-prohibit-hair-discrimination#:~:text=As%20of%20June%202023%2C%2023,including%20the%20U.S.%20Virgin%20Islands) . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Bowen, Sherry. "Should Kids Wear School Uniforms?" (http://www.eduguide.org/article/should-kids-wear-school-uniforms) . EduGuide . Retrieved September 22, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "School Dress Codes - FindLaw" (http://education.findlaw.com/student-rights/school-dress-codes.html) . Findlaw . Retrieved 2017-12-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-:6_30-0) Hills, Surry (April 7, 2014). "Response to dress code". Education . 95 (3): 8. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 1519605424 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/1519605424) . {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : CS1 maint: date and year ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_date_and_year) ) ^ (#cite_ref-Herbon,_Beth_2000_31-0) Herbon, Beth, and Jane E. Workman. "Dress and Appearance Codes in Public Secondary School Handbooks." Journal of Family & Consumer Sciences 92.5 (2000): 68-76. ^ Jump up to: a b Smith, Natalie. "Eliminating Gender Stereotypes in Public School Dress Codes: The Necessity of Respecting Personal Preference." Journal of Law & Education ; 41.1 (2012): 251-60. ^ (#cite_ref-33) Casey, Liam (May 26, 2015). "Toronto students sport crop tops in protest of dress code" (https://www.ctvnews.ca/canada/toronto-students-sport-crop-tops-in-protest-of-dress-code-1.2391992) . CTVNews . Retrieved November 23, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) McGowan, Emma (September 1, 2015). "Meet the Teenage Girls Who Are Taking a Stand Against Slut-Shaming Dress Codes" (https://www.mic.com/articles/126179/meet-the-teenage-girls-who-are-taking-a-stand-against-slut-shaming-dress-codes) . Mic . Retrieved November 23, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Dockterman, Eliana. "When Enforcing School Dress Codes Turns Into Slut Shaming" (http://time.com/36997/when-enforcing-school-dress-codes-turns-into-slut-shaming/) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . Retrieved 2015-11-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Lim, Heejin; Lennon, Sharron; Jones, Domenique (2021-11-17). "Objectification Found in High School Girls' Experience With Dress Code Enforcement" (http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0887302X211058434) . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal . 42 (2): 103–120. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1177/0887302X211058434 (https://doi.org/10.1177%2F0887302X211058434) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0887-302X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0887-302X) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 244394673 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:244394673) . ^ Jump up to: a b c Carroll, Rory (24 September 2014). "Students protest 'slut shaming' high school dress codes with mass walkouts" (https://www.theguardian.com/education/2014/sep/24/us-high-schools-dress-codes-protest-sexism-hemline) . The Guardian . Retrieved 8 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Hall, Louise (13 August 2021). "Mom praised for calling out double standard of schools not enforcing masks but 'misogynistic' dress code" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/schools-masks-clothing-mother-girls-coronavirus-b1902378.html) . The Independent . ^ (#cite_ref-39) West, Phil (13 August 2021). "Mom calls out school's double standard in letting masks be optional but making girls adhere to 'misogynistic' dress code" (https://www.dailydot.com/debug/mom-hamilton-county-schools-board-letter-masks-dress-code/) . The Daily Dot . Pratt, Michael G., and Anat Rafaeli. "Organizational Dress as a Symbol of Multilayered Social Identities." Academy of Management Journal, vol. 40, no. 4, 1997, pp. 862-898. ProQuest (/wiki/ProQuest_(identifier)) 199840879 (https://search.proquest.com/docview/199840879) . External links [ edit ] Look up dress code (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Special:Search/dress_code) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Wikimedia Commons has media related to Dress code (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Dress_code) . 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New Zealand company This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Swanndri) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Swanndri" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Swanndri%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Swanndri%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Swanndri%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Swanndri%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Swanndri%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Swanndri%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( July 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Swanndri Company type Public company Industry Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) Founded 23 December 1913 ; 110 years ago ( 1913-12-23 ) Founder William Broome Headquarters Christchurch (/wiki/Christchurch) , New Zealand Products Outdoor Clothing Website https://www.swanndri.co.nz (https://www.swanndri.co.nz) Swanndri is a trade name for a range of popular New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) outdoor clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , and also used informally to refer to their original long heavy bush shirt. The classic "swanny" or bush shirt is a heavy, hooded, woollen (/wiki/Wool) garment with a lace up section at the neck. Although a wide range of colours and patterns are available, the traditional swanny pattern is a dark tartan (/wiki/Tartan) which could be described as a 'reverse gingham', with thick criss-crossing stripes of either blue or red over a black base. The item was widely worn by farmers (/wiki/Farmers) , but in recent years its popularity has spread and it has become something of a fashion (/wiki/Fashion) item. The Swanndri company also now produces a range of more urban-focussed garments. History [ edit ] Vintage Swanndri clothing label from approximately the 1960s The Swanndri, or "swanny" as it has been dubbed, was designed by William Broome (1873–1942). Since he registered Swanndri as a trademark on 23 December 1913, it has become an iconic New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) garment, and the term "swanny" has, to some extent at least, become a genericised trademark (/wiki/Generic_trademark) for heavy bush shirts within New Zealand. Broome, born in Staffordshire (/wiki/Staffordshire) , England (/wiki/England) , emigrated to New Zealand at age 21. A tailor by trade, he established a clothier and outfitters business, The Palatine , which was located on Devon Street, New Plymouth (/wiki/New_Plymouth) . Part of his business involved sewing woollen fabric from mills in Wanganui (/wiki/Wanganui) , Kaiapoi (/wiki/Kaiapoi) and Wellington (/wiki/Wellington) , into the Swanndri garments. The characteristics of the "swanny" design include its heavy dark fabric, often in a tartan pattern, hood and laced neck closure. In more recent designs, a zip has replaced the lace-up neck. The original design was short sleeved, long in the back, and would be worn on top of work clothes for warmth and shower proofing. During production, these garments were dipped into a secret mixture and then dried. It is not known if Broome had been taught the method for shower proofing the fabric he used or whether he developed the formula himself. The mixture caused the garments to shrink unevenly so were sold as one size fits all. [1] (#cite_note-pukeariki.com-1) In 1938, Broome transferred the business to his wife, Ivy. Broome himself died four years later aged 69 years. In 1952, Ivy sold the business and trademark to John McKendrick, who operated a clothing factory at Waitara (/wiki/Waitara,_New_Zealand) . McKendrick began purchasing fabric that was closely woven and pre-shrunk which enabled him to make different pattern sizes and garments. He sourced his cloth from South Island-based Alliance Textiles (/w/index.php?title=Alliance_Textiles&action=edit&redlink=1) , and the business expanded with factories in Waitara (/wiki/Waitara,_New_Zealand) and Ōpunake (/wiki/%C5%8Cpunake) . Alliance Textiles bought the Swanndri trademark in 1975 and later the whole company in 1990, moving production from their factories in Timaru. [2] (#cite_note-2) In 1994, Swanndri New Zealand Ltd purchased the brand from Alliance Textiles. [1] (#cite_note-pukeariki.com-1) According to Swanndri's corporate history, Broome's design began after he was frustrated by the persistently rainy New Zealand weather. The name Swanndri was named by Broome because the rain would literally run off the back of the garment as it does on a swan (/wiki/Swan) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Although new colours and features have been incorporated into the Swanndri, Broom's original design influence can still be seen in New Zealand and among other producers around the world. Recent history [ edit ] Swanndri has been outsourcing its production to China since 2005. While the packaging and postage reinforces the NZ connection, the labelling says "Final construction in China to Swanndri NZ standards". Thus, the manufacturer no longer qualifies for Buy NZ Made (/wiki/Buy_NZ_Made) . References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Taranaki Stories - One Size Fits All - The Swanndri Success Story" (http://pukeariki.com/Learning-Research/Taranaki-Research-Centre/Taranaki-Stories/Taranaki-Story/id/384/title/one-size-fits-all-the-swanndri-success-story) . Puke Ariki. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Te Papa Article (https://collections.tepapa.govt.nz/topic/852) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Swanndri NZ Website and Online Store (http://www.swanndri.co.nz/default.aspx?i=5002) External links [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) New Zealand portal (/wiki/Portal:New_Zealand) Swanndri company home page (http://www.swanndri.co.nz/) Interview with grandson of the founder (https://archive.today/20071111092739/http://www.pukeariki.com/en/stories/businessAndIndustry/swanndri.htm) Information about Swanndri (http://collections.tepapa.govt.nz/theme.aspx?irn=852) , from the exhibition On The Sheep's Back , by Te Papa museum (/wiki/Te_Papa_museum) NZ Govt. 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Swanndri&oldid=1230634959 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Swanndri&oldid=1230634959) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Companies based in New Plymouth (/wiki/Category:Companies_based_in_New_Plymouth) New Zealand brands (/wiki/Category:New_Zealand_brands) Outdoor clothing brands (/wiki/Category:Outdoor_clothing_brands) New Zealand design (/wiki/Category:New_Zealand_design) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles needing additional references from July 2020 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_July_2020) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references) Use dmy dates from December 2020 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_December_2020) Use New Zealand English from February 2012 (/wiki/Category:Use_New_Zealand_English_from_February_2012) All Wikipedia articles written in New Zealand English (/wiki/Category:All_Wikipedia_articles_written_in_New_Zealand_English) |
French multinational luxury goods conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Headquarters in Paris Trade name (/wiki/Trade_name) LVMH Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) ( Societas Europaea (/wiki/Societas_Europaea) ) [1] (#cite_note-Infogreffe-1) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) Euronext Paris (/wiki/Euronext_Paris) : MC (https://euronext.com/products/equities/FR0000121014-XPAR) CAC 40 (/wiki/CAC_40) component ISIN (/wiki/International_Securities_Identification_Number) FR0000121014 (https://isin.toolforge.org/?language=en&isin=FR0000121014) Industry Luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) Predecessors Moët & Chandon (/wiki/Mo%C3%ABt_%26_Chandon) Hennessy (/wiki/Hennessy) Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) Founded 3 June 1987 ; 37 years ago ( 1987-06-03 ) Founders Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) Alain Chevalier Henry Racamier (/wiki/Henry_Racamier) Headquarters Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France Number of locations 6,097 stores (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Area served Worldwide Key people Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) ( Chairman (/wiki/Chairman) & CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Stéphane Bianchi (Group Managing Director) [5] (#cite_note-5) Antoine Arnault (/wiki/Antoine_Arnault) (Director) Delphine Arnault (/wiki/Delphine_Arnault) (Director; Chairman & CEO, Christian Dior Couture) [6] (#cite_note-6) Products Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) fashion accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) jewelry (/wiki/Jewellery) perfumes (/wiki/Perfume) spirits (/wiki/Distilled_beverage) watches (/wiki/Watch) wines (/wiki/Wine) Services Department stores (/wiki/Department_stores) Revenue €86.15 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €22.56 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €15.17 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €143.7 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €62.70 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Owner Arnault Family (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) (48.60% capital, 64.33% voting rights (2023)) Number of employees 213,000 (2023) [2] (#cite_note-lvmh-fy23-2) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) List of subsidiaries (#Subsidiaries) Website lvmh (http://lvmh.com) .com (http://lvmh.com) LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton ( French: [mɔɛt‿ɛnɛsi (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) lwi (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) vɥitɔ̃] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ), [1] (#cite_note-Infogreffe-1) commonly known as LVMH , is a French [7] (#cite_note-7) multinational (/wiki/Multinational_corporation) holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) and conglomerate (/wiki/Conglomerate_(company)) specializing in luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) , headquartered in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . [8] (#cite_note-Greffe_du_tribunal-8) The company was formed in 1987 through the merger of fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) (founded in 1854) with Moët Hennessy, which was established following the 1971 merger (/wiki/Mergers_and_acquisitions) between the champagne (/wiki/Champagne) producer Moët & Chandon (/wiki/Mo%C3%ABt_%26_Chandon) (founded in 1743) and the cognac (/wiki/Cognac_(brandy)) producer Hennessy (/wiki/Hennessy) (founded in 1765). [9] (#cite_note-CHFU-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) In April 2023, LVMH became the first European company to surpass a valuation of $500 billion. [12] (#cite_note-12) In 2023, the company was ranked 47th in the Forbes Global 2000 (/wiki/Forbes_Global_2000) . [13] (#cite_note-13) LVMH controls around 60 subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) that manage 75 luxury brands. In addition to Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy, LVMH's portfolio includes Tiffany (/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co.) , Dior (/wiki/Dior) , Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) , Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) , Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) , Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) , Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) , Loro Piana (/wiki/Loro_Piana) , Kenzo (/wiki/Kenzo_(brand)) , Celine (/wiki/Celine_(brand)) , Sephora (/wiki/Sephora) , Princess Yachts (/wiki/Princess_Yachts) , TAG Heuer (/wiki/TAG_Heuer) , and Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) . The subsidiaries are often managed independently, under the umbrellas of six branches: Fashion Group, Wines and Spirits, Perfumes and Cosmetics, Watches and Jewelry, Selective Distribution, and Other Activities. LVMH owns Les Echos-Le Parisien Group, its media subsidiary. The wine estate (/wiki/Vineyard) Château d'Yquem (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_d%27Yquem) , whose origins date back to 1593, is under LVMH ownership. [14] (#cite_note-14) Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) is the founder, chairman, CEO and largest shareholder of LVMH, making him the world’s third richest person as of 2024. History [ edit ] In 1987, Moet Hennessy and Louis Vuitton merged to create LVMH. Following different visions of the future of the Group, Alain Chevalier and Henri Racamier, respective leaders of MH and LV, started to fight. Racamier invited Bernard Arnault to invest in LVMH. Rapidly, Arnault succeeded in taking control of LVMH at the expense of the initial family owners. Contrary to what is often indicated, Bernard Arnault never created LVMH. [15] (#cite_note-15) Their successful integration of various famous aspirational brands (/wiki/Aspirational_brand) into a single group inspired other luxury companies to do the same. Thus, the French conglomerate Kering (/wiki/Kering) and the Swiss-based Richemont (/wiki/Richemont) have also created extended portfolios of luxury brands. [ citation needed ] LVMH is a component of the Euro Stoxx 50 (/wiki/Euro_Stoxx_50) stock market index (/wiki/Stock_market_index) . [16] (#cite_note-16) Make Up For Ever was established in 1984, [17] (#cite_note-17) and was acquired by LVMH in 1999. [18] (#cite_note-18) On 7 March 2011, LVMH announced the acquisition of the 50.4% family-owned shares of the Italian jeweller Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) and the intention to make a tender offer for the rest, which was publicly owned. [19] (#cite_note-19) The transaction was about $5.2 billion. [20] (#cite_note-20) By 2012, LVMH established LCapitalAsia, a continuation of its private-equity arm, focused on Asia. [21] (#cite_note-MW_March_7-21) In early 2013, LVMH announced its co-investment of LVMH’s private equity LCapitalAsia and the Chinese apparel company Xin Hee Co., Ltd. [21] (#cite_note-MW_March_7-21) In February 2014, LVMH entered into a joint venture with the Italian fashion brand Marco De Vincenzo, taking a minority 45% stake in the firm. [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-LVMH_Takes_Stake_in_Marco_de_Vincenzo-23) In 2016, L Catterton (/wiki/L_Catterton) Asia and Crescent Point, two private equity firms backed by LVMH, bought a majority stake in GXG. [24] (#cite_note-24) In April 2017, LVMH announced it would gain ownership of Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) haute couture, leather, men's and women's ready-to-wear, and footwear lines to integrate the entire Dior (/wiki/Dior) brand within its luxury group. [25] (#cite_note-bof-christian-dior-25) In January 2018, LVMH announced record sales of 42.6 billion euros in 2017, up 13% over the previous year, as all divisions turned in strong performances. In the same year, the net profit increased by 29%. [26] (#cite_note-26) On 1 November 2018, co-founder Alain Chevalier died at age 87. [27] (#cite_note-wwd-27) The LVMH Tower (/wiki/LVMH_Tower) in Midtown Manhattan (/wiki/Midtown_Manhattan) , with its bluish, gem (/wiki/Gem) -shaped, angulated glass facade On 12 May 2019, the fashion house Fenty, styled as FEИTY (/wiki/Fenty_(brand)) , created by singer Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , was launched by LVMH in Paris. It is the first new fashion house by LVMH in 32 years, and she is the first woman of colour to head a brand under LVMH. [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) On 15 July 2019, LVMH announced a new partnership to further develop the Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) House. [30] (#cite_note-30) On 29 November 2019, LVMH announced its 55% stake in Château d'Esclans (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_d%27Esclans) , the producer best known for the brand Whispering Angel. [31] (#cite_note-31) The acquisition was part of LVMH's move to offer a beloved high-end rosé portfolio, in addition to reaching customers worldwide. [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) In November 2019, LVMH expressed plans to acquire Tiffany & Co. (/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co.) for approximately US $16.2 billion. The deal was expected to close by June 2020. [34] (#cite_note-34) LVMH issued a statement in September 2020 indicating that the takeover would not proceed and that the deal was "invalid," citing Tiffany's mismanagement during the COVID-19 pandemic. [35] (#cite_note-marketscreener-35) Subsequently, Tiffany filed suit against LVMH, asking the court to compel the purchase or to assess damages against the defendant; LVMH planned to countersuit, alleging that mismanagement had invalidated the purchase agreement. [36] (#cite_note-36) In mid-September 2020, a reliable source told Forbes (/wiki/Forbes_(magazine)) that the reason for Arnault's decision to cancel the Tiffany purchase was purely financial: because Tiffany was paying millions in dividends to shareholders despite a financial loss of US$32 million during the pandemic. Some US$70 million had already been paid out by Tiffany, with an additional US$70 million scheduled to be paid in November 2020. [37] (#cite_note-37) LVMH filed a counterclaim against the court action commenced by Tiffany; a statement issued by LMVH blamed Tiffany's mismanagement during the pandemic and claimed that it was 'burning cash and reporting losses'". [38] (#cite_note-38) In late October 2020, Tiffany and LVMH agreed to go back to the original takeover plan, though at a slightly reduced price of nearly $16 billion, a minor reduction of 2.6% from the aforementioned deal. The new deal reduced the amount paid per share by LVMH from the original price of $135 to $131.50. [39] (#cite_note-39) As of late 2020, LVMH has the largest market capitalization of any company in France, [40] (#cite_note-40) and also in the Eurozone (/wiki/Eurozone) with a record of 261 billion euros ($317.6 billion). [41] (#cite_note-41) As of December 2020, Arnault's own fortune was nearly half that, with a personal net worth of $151.7 billion. [42] (#cite_note-42) LVMH completed the purchase of Tiffany in January 2021. [43] (#cite_note-43) In 2021, with a valuation of $329 billion, LVMH became the most valuable company in Europe. [44] (#cite_note-44) In January 2022, LVMH acquired a minority stake in the New York-based label Aimé Leon Dore (/wiki/Aim%C3%A9_Leon_Dore) for an undisclosed sum. The investment was made through the conglomerate's LVMH Luxury Ventures arm. [45] (#cite_note-45) In March 2022, LVMH announced the closure of its 120+ stores in Russia, pointing to "the current circumstances in the region", [46] (#cite_note-:1-46) subsequent to the Russian invasion of Ukraine (/wiki/Russian_invasion_of_Ukraine) . An LVMH spokesperson stated the company would continue to pay salary and benefits to its 3,500 employees in Russia. [46] (#cite_note-:1-46) In November 2022, it was announced LVMH had acquired the Piedmont (/wiki/Piedmont) -based jewelry maker Pedemonte Group. [47] (#cite_note-47) On 24 April 2023, LVMH became the first European company to reach a $500 billion valuation. [48] (#cite_note-48) In November 2023, LVMH agreed to acquire the Los Angeles-based eyewear brand Barton Perreira for $80 million. [49] (#cite_note-49) In June 2024, LVMH acquired Swiza, the owner of L’Epée 1839, [50] (#cite_note-50) a Swiss manufacturer known for high-end clocks and horological creations. [51] (#cite_note-:3-51) L’Epée 1839, based in Delémont, Switzerland, has been recognized for its watchmaking expertise since 1839. This acquisition highlights LVMH's focus on integrating unique craftsmanship and design within its luxury portfolio. L’Epée 1839 produces intricate clocks, including those with perpetual calendars and tourbillons, favored by various dignitaries and royal families. Corporate structure [ edit ] LVMH is headquartered in the 8th arrondissement of Paris (/wiki/8th_arrondissement_of_Paris) , France. [9] (#cite_note-CHFU-9) The company is listed on the Euronext Paris (/wiki/Euronext_Paris) exchange [52] (#cite_note-52) and is a constituent of the CAC 40 (/wiki/CAC_40) index. As of 2009, the group employed more than 83,000 people, [53] (#cite_note-AR2010-53) 30 percent of LVMH's staff worked in France, and LVMH operated over 2,400 stores worldwide. [54] (#cite_note-LVMH_First_half_2009_interim_report-54) As of 2010, the group had revenues (/wiki/Revenue) of €20.3 billion with a net income (/wiki/Net_income) of just over €3 billion. [53] (#cite_note-AR2010-53) In 2013, with a revenue of $21.7 billion, LVMH was ranked first luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) company in Deloitte (/wiki/Deloitte) 's "Global Powers of Luxury Goods" report. [55] (#cite_note-Deloitte_Global_Powers_of_Luxury_Goods_2014_report-55) By 29 February 2016, the company had a share value of 78,126 million euros, distributed in 506,980,299 shares. Shareholders [ edit ] As of 2009, LVMH held 66% of the drinks division, Moët Hennessy, with the remaining 34% held by Diageo (/wiki/Diageo) . [56] (#cite_note-56) As of 2013, Christian Dior SE (/wiki/Dior) was the leading holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) of LVMH, owning 40.9% of its shares and 59.01% of its voting rights. [57] (#cite_note-57) Bernard Arnault is Chairman and CEO of LVMH and Chairman of Christian Dior SE. In 2017, Arnault purchased all the remaining Christian Dior shares in a reported $13.1 billion buyout. [58] (#cite_note-58) At the end of 2017, the only declared major shareholder in LVMH was the Arnault Family Group, the holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) of Bernard Arnault. The group's control amounted to 46.84% of LVMH's stock and 63.13% of its voting rights. [59] (#cite_note-RefDoc2009-59) This significant share held by the Arnault Family Group not only underscores their influential role in the strategic direction of LVMH but also highlights the consolidation of control within family-held enterprises in the luxury sector. Senior leadership [ edit ] Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) has served as LVMH's chairman and CEO since January 1989. [60] (#cite_note-:0-60) Alain Chevalier was chairman from 1987 until Arnault took over the role. [61] (#cite_note-61) In 2024, Stéphane Bianchi is appointed LVMH Group Managing Director, responsible for strategic and operational management of the Group Maisons. He also oversees the Regions Presidents, and the Digital and Data Transformation of the Group. He is also the Chairman of the LVMH Executive Committee. [62] (#cite_note-62) Media group [ edit ] In 2007, Arnault bought France's leading financial newspaper, Les Echos (/wiki/Les_Echos_(France)) , from the British company Pearson (/wiki/Pearson_plc) for 240 million euros (/wiki/Euro) (US$262 million) after a negotiating period of four months. [63] (#cite_note-63) In 2015, LVMH bought the newspapers Le Parisien (/wiki/Le_Parisien) and Aujourd’hui en France from the Amaury Group (/wiki/%C3%89ditions_Philippe_Amaury) . Marie-Odile Amaury, the group's owner, initially hoped for 200 million euros ($218 million) which were later revised to 150 million ($163 million) during a previous sale attempt, but a bid of 50 million euros ($54.5 million) was made. [64] (#cite_note-64) The financial transaction was completed at the end of October 2015. [65] (#cite_note-65) In 2018, the Lagardère Group (/wiki/Lagard%C3%A8re_Group) sold the stock market (/wiki/Stock_market) information website Boursier.com to Les Echos-Le Parisien Group. [66] (#cite_note-66) In March 2018, Pierre Louette, former CEO of Agence France-Presse (/wiki/Agence_France-Presse) from 2005 to 2010, was named CEO of Les Echos-Le Parisien Group, succeeding Francis Morel, who had held this position for seven years. [67] (#cite_note-67) In 2022, Les Echos-Le Parisien Group acquired 75% of the share capital of the French polling and research institute OpinionWay, which has 140 employees. [68] (#cite_note-OpinionW2022-68) Les Echos-Le Parisien Group also acquired Radio Classique (/wiki/Radio_Classique) , Connaissance des Arts (/wiki/Connaissance_des_Arts) , [68] (#cite_note-OpinionW2022-68) and Investir (/wiki/Investir) and bought 50% of Medici.tv (/wiki/Medici.tv) as well as Mezzo TV (/wiki/Mezzo_TV) and EuroArts. [69] (#cite_note-PL2022-69) [70] (#cite_note-70) Les Echos-Le Parisien Group is also present in business services represented by its subsidiaries, such as Netexplo, Les Echos Etudes, and Les Echos Publishing, as well as communication services for companies such as Les Echos-Le Parisien Partenaires and Pelham Media. [69] (#cite_note-PL2022-69) ChangeNow, Investir Day, and VivaTech (co-founded with Publicis (/wiki/Publicis) ) are subsidiaries whose objective is to offer trade shows (/wiki/Trade_show) and corporate events. [69] (#cite_note-PL2022-69) Subsidiaries [ edit ] A partial list, including some of LVMH's best-known brands and subsidiaries: [54] (#cite_note-LVMH_First_half_2009_interim_report-54) [71] (#cite_note-71) Wines and spirits Ao Yun (/wiki/Ao_Yun) Ardbeg (/wiki/Ardbeg_distillery) Belvedere (/wiki/Belvedere_Vodka) Bodega Numanthia Chandon (/wiki/Domaine_Chandon_California) Château d'Esclans (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_d%27Esclans) (Whispering Angel) Château Cheval Blanc (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_Cheval_Blanc) Château d'Yquem (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_d%27Yquem) Château Minuty (/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_Minuty) [72] (#cite_note-Minuty-72) Cheval des Andes (/wiki/Terrazas_de_los_Andes) Clos des Lambrays (/wiki/Clos_des_Lambrays) Cloudy Bay (/wiki/Cloudy_Bay_Vineyards) Colgin Cellars (/wiki/Colgin_Cellars) Dom Pérignon (/wiki/Dom_P%C3%A9rignon) Glenmorangie (/wiki/Glenmorangie_distillery) Hennessy (/wiki/Hennessy) Krug (/wiki/Champagne_Krug) Mercier (/wiki/Champagne_Mercier) Moët & Chandon (/wiki/Mo%C3%ABt_%26_Chandon) Newton Vineyard (/wiki/Newton_Vineyard) Ruinart (/wiki/Ruinart_(Champagne)) Terrazas de los Andes (/wiki/Terrazas_de_los_Andes) Veuve Clicquot (/wiki/Veuve_Clicquot) Volcan de mi Tierra Woodinville Clos19 Fashion and leather goods Berluti (/wiki/Berluti) Celine (/wiki/Celine_(brand)) Christian Dior (/wiki/Dior) Emilio Pucci (/wiki/Emilio_Pucci) Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) JW Anderson (/wiki/JW_Anderson) Kenzo (/wiki/Kenzo_(brand)) Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) Loro Piana (/wiki/Loro_Piana) Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) Moynat (/wiki/Moynat) Off-White (/wiki/Off-White_(company)) Patou (/wiki/Patou) Phoebe Philo (/wiki/Phoebe_Philo) Rimowa (/wiki/Rimowa) Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) Perfumes and cosmetics Acqua di Parma (/wiki/Acqua_di_Parma) Benefit Cosmetics (/wiki/Benefit_Cosmetics) BITE Beauty (/wiki/BITE_Beauty) Cha Ling Fenty Beauty (/wiki/Fenty_Beauty) by Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) Fresh Parfums Givenchy (/wiki/Parfums_Givenchy) Guerlain (/wiki/Guerlain) Kenzo Parfums (/wiki/Kenzo_(brand)) KVD Vegan Beauty Maison Francis Kurkdjian (/wiki/Francis_Kurkdjian) Make Up For Ever (/wiki/Make_Up_For_Ever) Marc Jacobs Beauty (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) Officine Universelle Buly (/wiki/Officine_Universelle_Buly) Ole Henriksen (/wiki/Ole_Henriksen) Parfums Christian Dior (/wiki/Parfums_Christian_Dior) Perfumes Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) Sephora (/wiki/Sephora) Watches and jewelry Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) Chaumet (/wiki/Chaumet) Daniel Roth (/wiki/Daniel_Roth_(watchmakers)) Fred (/wiki/Fred_Joaillier) Gerald Genta (/wiki/Gerald_Genta) Hublot (/wiki/Hublot) Repossi (/wiki/Repossi) TAG Heuer (/wiki/TAG_Heuer) Tiffany & Co. (/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co.) Zenith (/wiki/Zenith_(watchmaker)) Selective retailing DFS (/wiki/DFS_Group) La Grande Epicerie (/wiki/Le_Bon_March%C3%A9) La Samaritaine (/wiki/La_Samaritaine) Le Bon Marché (/wiki/Le_Bon_March%C3%A9) Starboard Cruise Services 24S (/wiki/24S) Other activities Belmond (/wiki/Belmond_Limited) Bulgari Hotel and Resorts (/wiki/Bulgari#Bulgari_hotels_and_resorts) Maisons Cheval Blanc Connaissance des Arts (/wiki/Connaissance_des_Arts) Cova (/wiki/Caff%C3%A8-Pasticceria_Cova) Investir (/wiki/Investir) Jardin d'Acclimatation (/wiki/Jardin_d%27Acclimatation) Le Parisien (/wiki/Le_Parisien) Les Echos Radio Classique (/wiki/Radio_Classique) Royal Van Lent (/wiki/Feadship) E-commerce [ edit ] On 24 May 2018, LVMH launched an e-commerce initiative by investing in online fashion search business Lyst, as a way for LVMH's luxury brands to expand their presence online and capture younger shoppers. [73] (#cite_note-73) LVMH contributed to Lyst's $60 million funding round, which also included access to LVMH's international expertise, designed to drive Lyst's global expansion. [74] (#cite_note-74) On 22 May 2024, LVMH announced that it would expand its partnership with Alibaba (/wiki/Alibaba_Group) to increase its presence in China. [75] (#cite_note-75) [76] (#cite_note-76) Financial data [ edit ] Financial data (in million euros) 2006 [77] (#cite_note-lvmh.com-77) 2007 [77] (#cite_note-lvmh.com-77) 2008 [77] (#cite_note-lvmh.com-77) 2009 [77] (#cite_note-lvmh.com-77) 2010 [53] (#cite_note-AR2010-53) 2011 2012 2013 2014 [78] (#cite_note-Annual_Report_2014-78) 2015 [79] (#cite_note-Annual_Report_2015-79) 2016 [80] (#cite_note-Annual_Report_2016-80) 2017 [81] (#cite_note-Annual_Report_2017-81) Sales 15,306 16,481 17,193 17,053 20,320 23,659 28,103 29,016 30,638 35,664 37,600 42,636 Net profit (before minority interests) 2,160 2,331 2,318 1,973 3,032 3,065 3,909 3,947 6,105 4,001 4,363 5,616 Total equity 11,594 12,528 13,887 14,785 18,204 23,512 25,666 27,907 23,003 25,799 27,903 30,260 Financial data (in million euros) 2018 [82] (#cite_note-:2-82) 2019 [82] (#cite_note-:2-82) 2020 [82] (#cite_note-:2-82) 2021 [82] (#cite_note-:2-82) 2022 [82] (#cite_note-:2-82) 2023 [82] (#cite_note-:2-82) Sales 46,826 53,670 44,651 64,215 79,184 86,153 Net profit (before minority interests) 6,354 7,171 4,702 12,036 12,036 15,174 Total equity 33,957 38,365 38,829 48,909 56,604 62,701 Sales by region [ edit ] LVMH made 27% of its 2022 revenue from sales in the Americas. 30% of its sales revenue came from Asia excluding Japan. [83] (#cite_note-83) Region 2022ê Sales in €million [84] (#cite_note-84) in % Asia (excluding Japan) 26,577 30.8 % United States 21,764 25.3% Europe (excluding France) 14,145 16.4% France 6,830 7.9% Japan 6,314 7.3% Other countries 10,523 12.2% Philanthropy, sponsorships and events [ edit ] Visual arts [ edit ] LVMH is a major patron of art in France. The group supported about ten exhibitions as " Le grand monde d’Andy Warhol " [85] (#cite_note-85) and " Picasso et les maîtres " [86] (#cite_note-86) at le Grand Palais (/wiki/Grand_Palais) in Paris. LVMH also endorsed the patronage of " l'atelier d'Alberto Giacometti " and "Yves Klein" at Centre Georges Pompidou (/wiki/Centre_Georges_Pompidou) . Since 2005, when the LVMH flagship store opened in Paris at 3, avenue George V (/wiki/Avenue_George_V) , 75008, the company presented close collaborations with contemporary artists. [87] (#cite_note-Exclusively_for_the_Champs-Elysees-87) Features included a light sculpture by American James Turrell (/wiki/James_Turrell) , a 20-metre (65 feet) long "travelling staircase" showcasing the work of American video artist Tim White-Sobieski (/wiki/Tim_White-Sobieski) and an elevator linking the store to the top floor by Iceland's Olafur Eliasson (/wiki/Olafur_Eliasson) . [88] (#cite_note-BlouinARTINFO-88) In 2006, a gallery space was inaugurated on the second floor of the same building and named " Espace Culturel ". [89] (#cite_note-Espace_Culturel-89) " Icônes " was one of the first exhibitions. [90] (#cite_note-90) Shigeru Ban (/wiki/Shigeru_Ban) , Sylvie Fleury (/wiki/Sylvie_Fleury) , Zaha Hadid (/wiki/Zaha_Hadid) , Bruno Peinado (/wiki/Bruno_Peinado) , Andrée Putman (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9e_Putman) , Ugo Rondinone (/wiki/Ugo_Rondinone) , James Turrell (/wiki/James_Turrell) , Tim White-Sobieski (/wiki/Tim_White-Sobieski) and Robert Wilson (/wiki/Robert_Wilson_(director)) were the nine artists invited by Louis Vuitton to participate in it. [91] (#cite_note-deeny-91) In addition, LVMH foundation created the "young creators LVMH award", an international competition opened to French and international beaux-arts students. [92] (#cite_note-92) Each year, six grants are allocated to the winners. In 2014, LVMH opened the Fondation Louis Vuitton pour la Creation in a new building designed by Frank Gehry (/wiki/Frank_Gehry) in the Bois de Boulogne in Paris. The Fondation is designed as the Group's own museum to present its collections and organize major world-class art exhibitions. Fashion [ edit ] In November 2013, LVMH created the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize , which comes with a €300,000 grant with a year of mentoring; it was the brainchild of Delphine Arnault (/wiki/Delphine_Arnault) . [93] (#cite_note-LVMH_to_Establish_Global_Fashion_Prize-93) In February 2014 20 finalists for the inaugural prize were shown in London, including Simone Rocha, Thomas Tait, Meadham Kirchhoff, Marques'Almeida (/wiki/Marques%27Almeida) , J JS Lee, and others, [94] (#cite_note-Delphine_Arnault_Unveils_LVMH_Prize_Finalists-94) and Thomas Tait was the winner. [95] (#cite_note-friedman-95) Marques'Almeida won the 2015 prize. [95] (#cite_note-friedman-95) In 2019, South African designer Thebe Magugu (/wiki/Thebe_Magugu) became the first African to win the prize, [96] (#cite_note-96) and was commended by the President of South Africa, Cyril Ramaphosa (/wiki/Cyril_Ramaphosa) . [97] (#cite_note-97) LVMH underwrites other fashion competitions, including the Andam prize in France, the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères (/wiki/Hy%C3%A8res) , France, an investment fund for young designers created by the French Ministry of Culture and Communication (/wiki/French_Ministry_of_Culture_and_Communication) , and a scholarship program and sponsored lecture theater at Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) in London. [93] (#cite_note-LVMH_to_Establish_Global_Fashion_Prize-93) Music [ edit ] The group also lends Stradivarius violins (/wiki/List_of_Stradivarius_instruments) to young talented musicians. Maxim Vengerov (/wiki/Maxim_Vengerov) and Laurent Korcia (/wiki/Laurent_Korcia) have used the instruments. Humanitarian aid [ edit ] On 26 August 2019, Bernard Arnault declared that LVMH would donate $11 million to help fight the 2019 Brazil wildfires (/wiki/2019_Brazil_wildfires) . [98] (#cite_note-98) During the COVID-19 (/wiki/COVID-19) crisis, the group shifted its production of perfume and spirits towards hand sanitizer. This production of 12 tons has been offered to hospitals in Paris, France. [99] (#cite_note-99) In 2022, Louis Vuitton announced a €1 million donation to UNICEF to help the Ukrainian victims of the Russian invasion (/wiki/2022_Russian_invasion_of_Ukraine) . [100] (#cite_note-100) On 2 March 2022, LVMH Group pledged €5 million to the Red Cross (/wiki/International_Committee_of_the_Red_Cross) to those affected by the war. [101] (#cite_note-101) [102] (#cite_note-102) In addition, the company closed 124 of its stores in Russia. [103] (#cite_note-103) 2024 Olympic Games [ edit ] LVMH is sponsoring the Paris (/wiki/Paris) 2024 Olympic (/wiki/Olympic_Games) and Paralympic Games (/wiki/Paralympic_Games) as a premium partner. [104] (#cite_note-vogue-104) The company spent €150 million to seal the partnership. Chaumet (/wiki/Chaumet) jewelry company is responsible for the design of the medals, one of LVMH's fashion houses (/wiki/Fashion_design) , Berluti (/wiki/Berluti) , will dress the French delegation, and Moët (/wiki/Mo%C3%ABt_%26_Chandon) Hennessy (/wiki/Hennessy) will provide its products for the events. [105] (#cite_note-105) Also as part of the partnership, LVMH will participate in the activities of French Popular Relief, a charity organization that facilitates access to sport for 1,000 children and young people aged 4 to 25 living in vulnerable (/wiki/Vulnerability) situations. [104] (#cite_note-vogue-104) The group will sponsor athletes (/wiki/Athlete) , including French swimmer Leon Marchand (/wiki/Leon_Marchand) , and its beauty retailer Sephora (/wiki/Sephora) will sponsor the Olympic torch relay (/wiki/Olympic_flame) . [106] (#cite_note-106) Journées Particulières [ edit ] Launched in 2011, Journées Particulières (Particular Days) is a biennial event which allows visitors to enter the various ateliers, studios, caves, and mansions owned by LVMH, for free. For the first edition we were not at all certain that the public would come. I speak about that with some emotion. I remember coming along avenue Montaigne at 8AM that first morning and seeing hundreds of people, families, elderly ladies and little kids waiting for the doors of avenue Montaigne 30 to open and I thought we are going to write a beautiful page in history. — Antoine Arnault (/wiki/Antoine_Arnault) , referring to Christian Dior's headquarters [91] (#cite_note-deeny-91) It is staged every two years and has opened doors in France, Italy, Switzerland, the UK, the Netherlands, Spain and Germany, with 56 brands welcoming guests into over 70 sites on four continents. The 2017 issue attracted 145,000 visitors. [91] (#cite_note-deeny-91) Controversy [ edit ] John Galliano's anti-semitism [ edit ] Further information: John Galliano § Anti-semitic outbursts (/wiki/John_Galliano#Anti-semitic_outbursts) On 25 February 2011, Christian Dior announced they had suspended designer John Galliano following his arrest over an alleged anti-semitic tirade in a Paris bar. [107] (#cite_note-107) In France, it is against the law to make anti-semitic remarks of this nature, and it can be punished by up to six months in prison. [108] (#cite_note-108) On 1 March 2011, Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy. [109] (#cite_note-109) Sebastian Suhl [ edit ] Further information: Sebastian Suhl § Givenchy (/wiki/Sebastian_Suhl#Givenchy) In 2012 former Prada COO Sebastian Suhl was hired by Givenchy as the company's new CEO. [110] (#cite_note-110) The Asian Transnational Corporation Monitoring Network (ATNC), a network made of 15 organizations from 12 Asian countries wrote a letter of concern to LVMH Group's Bernard Arnault as Suhl was at the same time a key person in the Prada Female Discrimination Case (/wiki/Prada_Female_Discrimination_Case) where he was described as complicit in sexual harassment and discrimination practices. [111] (#cite_note-111) [112] (#cite_note-112) Corruption [ edit ] During December 2021, LVMH paid €10 million to settle claims in Paris to end several criminal investigations that a former French intelligence chief, Bernard Squarcini (/wiki/Bernard_Squarcini) , spied for the company, on competitors and others, including on an activist making a film about its billionaire owner, Bernard Arnault. Prosecutors allege that the intelligence chief used tactics like influence peddling, invasion of privacy, and leveraging his network in intelligence and police on behalf of the company. [113] (#cite_note-113) Fendi store openings 2023 [ edit ] Fendi has been very active in building new flagship stores in several places like Doha and Amsterdam. [ citation needed ] It has been claimed that in 2023 Fendi had not paid, or had only partially paid, invoices from their suppliers, with some amounts remaining outstanding for over a year. [ citation needed ] See also [ edit ] Estée Lauder Companies (/wiki/Est%C3%A9e_Lauder_Companies) Richemont (/wiki/Richemont) Kering (/wiki/Kering) Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) France (/wiki/Portal:France) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "LVMH MOET HENNESSY LOUIS VUITTON" (https://web.archive.org/web/20210614174538/https://www.infogreffe.com/entreprise-societe/775670417-lvmh-moet-hennessy-louis-vuitton-750171B050740000.html) . Infogreffe . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220815045700/https://www.nytimes.com/2022/03/04/business/lvmh-hermes-russia.html) from the original on 15 August 2022 . Retrieved 18 April 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "LVMH to sponsor the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/lvmh-to-sponsor-the-2024-olympic-games-in-paris) . Vogue Business . 24 July 2023. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230811023627/https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/lvmh-to-sponsor-the-2024-olympic-games-in-paris) from the original on 11 August 2023 . Retrieved 8 August 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-105) "Luxury group LVMH joins top-tier French sponsors of the 2024 Paris Olympics and Paralympics" (https://web.archive.org/web/20230726030741/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/lvmh-ap-french-sanofi-carrefour-b2381212.html) . Independent . Archived from the original (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/lvmh-ap-french-sanofi-carrefour-b2381212.html) on 26 July 2023 . 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Retrieved 29 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-108) "John Galliano anti-Semitic rant caught on video; Slurs on camera 'I love Hitler' (https://web.archive.org/web/20110302055230/http://www.nydailynews.com/news/world/2011/02/28/2011-02-28_john_galliano_antisemitic_rant_caught_on_video_nicole_kidman_wore_dior_by_gallia.html) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110302055230/http://www.nydailynews.com/news/world/2011/02/28/2011-02-28_john_galliano_antisemitic_rant_caught_on_video_nicole_kidman_wore_dior_by_gallia.html) . New York Daily News (/wiki/New_York_Daily_News) . 2 March 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.nydailynews.com/news/world/2011/02/28/2011-02-28_john_galliano_antisemitic_rant_caught_on_video_nicole_kidman_wore_dior_by_gallia.html) on 2 March 2011 . 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Retrieved 29 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-111) "Against LVMH Group on appointing Sebastian Suhl as COO of Givenchy while the candidate is in the case of sexual harassment and discrimination case in Prada Japan and Prada Luxemburg" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211022121523/https://atncdotasia.wordpress.com/2012/05/08/against-lvmh-group-on-appointing-sebastian-suhl/) . ATNC Monitoring Network . 8 May 2012. Archived from the original (https://atncdotasia.wordpress.com/2012/05/08/against-lvmh-group-on-appointing-sebastian-suhl/) on 22 October 2021 . Retrieved 29 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-112) Koedo, Shizuko (6 June 2014). "Alternative Report to the Human Rights Committee for the Consideration of the Sixth Periodic : Japan" (https://tbinternet.ohchr.org/Treaties/CCPR/Shared%20Documents/JPN/INT_CCPR_CSS_JPN_17360_E.pdf) (PDF) . OHCHR . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220304212612/https://tbinternet.ohchr.org/Treaties/CCPR/Shared%20Documents/JPN/INT_CCPR_CSS_JPN_17360_E.pdf) (PDF) from the original on 4 March 2022 . Retrieved 4 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-113) Abboud, Leila (16 December 2021). "LVMH settles corruption claims linked to former French spy chief" (https://www.ft.com/content/1688b150-49b8-45f7-8b00-b37d3e518675) . The Financial Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20211217205656/https://www.ft.com/content/1688b150-49b8-45f7-8b00-b37d3e518675) from the original on 17 December 2021 . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Mo%C3%ABt_Hennessy_Louis_Vuitton) . 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Variety of ethnic and cultural clothing worn by the people of India Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Culture_of_India) on the Culture (/wiki/Culture_of_India) of India (/wiki/India) Society Indians (/wiki/Indian_people) Folklore (/wiki/Folklore_of_India) History (/wiki/History_of_India) Languages (/wiki/Languages_of_India) Holidays (/wiki/Public_holidays_in_India) Religion (/wiki/Religion_in_India) Arts and literature Art (/wiki/Indian_art) Architecture (/wiki/Architecture_of_India) Cinema (/wiki/Cinema_of_India) Comics (/wiki/Indian_comics) Dance (/wiki/Dance_in_India) Festivals (/wiki/List_of_festivals_in_India) Literature (/wiki/Indian_literature) Poetry (/wiki/Indian_poetry) Music (/wiki/Music_of_India) Painting (/wiki/Indian_painting) Sculpture (/wiki/Sculpture_in_the_Indian_subcontinent) Theatre (/wiki/Theatre_of_India) Others Cuisine (/wiki/Indian_cuisine) Media (/wiki/Media_of_India) Newspapers (/wiki/List_of_newspapers_in_India) Radio (/wiki/Radio_in_India) Television (/wiki/Television_in_India) Sports (/wiki/Sport_in_India) Traditional (/wiki/Traditional_games_of_India) Video games (/wiki/Video_games_in_India) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) Mythology (/wiki/List_of_legendary_creatures_in_Hindu_mythology) Hindu (/wiki/Hindu_mythology) Vedic (/wiki/Vedic_mythology) Meitei (/wiki/Meitei_mythology) Buddhist (/wiki/Buddhist_mythology) Folklore (/wiki/Folklore_of_India) Symbols Flag (/wiki/Flag_of_India) State Emblem (/wiki/State_Emblem_of_India) Anthem (/wiki/National_anthem_of_India) Miss India (/wiki/Femina_Miss_India) World Heritage Sites (/wiki/List_of_World_Heritage_Sites_in_India) Monuments (/wiki/Monuments_of_National_Importance_(India)) Organizations Ministry of Culture (/wiki/Ministry_of_Culture_(India)) Ministry of Tourism (/wiki/Ministry_of_Tourism_(India)) Tourism (/wiki/Tourism_in_India) Museums (/wiki/List_of_museums_in_India) Incredible India (/wiki/Incredible_India) India portal (/wiki/Portal:India) v t e Clothing in India varies with the different ethnicities, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina (/wiki/Kaupina) , langota (/wiki/Langota) , achkan (/wiki/Achkan) , lungi (/wiki/Lungi) , sari (/wiki/Sari) , to rituals and dance performances. In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity [1] (#cite_note-1) in terms of weaves, fibers, colors, and the material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses a wide variety of Indian embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery_of_India) , prints, handwork, embellishments, and styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India. History [ edit ] Main articles: History of clothing in India (/wiki/History_of_clothing_in_India) and Sari (/wiki/Sari) Statue of "Priest King" wearing a robe, Indus Valley civilisation (/wiki/Indus_Valley_civilisation) . The Didarganj Yakshi (/wiki/Didarganj_Yakshi) depicting the dhoti wrap , c. 300 BC. The Buddha (/wiki/The_Buddha) wearing kāṣāya (/wiki/Kasaya_(clothing)) robes, c. 200 BC. Relief depicting men in antriya (/wiki/Antriya) and uttariya (/wiki/Uttariya) , first century AD. India's recorded history of clothing goes back to the fifth millennium BC in the Indus Valley Civilisation (/wiki/Indus_Valley_Civilisation) where cotton (/wiki/Cotton) was spun, woven and dyed. Bone needles and wooden spindles (/wiki/Spindle_(textiles)) have been unearthed in excavations (/wiki/Excavations) at the site. [2] (#cite_note-2) The cotton industry in ancient India was well developed, and several of the methods survive until today. Herodotus (/wiki/Herodotus) , an ancient Greek (/wiki/Greeks) historian described Indian cotton as "a wool exceeding in beauty and goodness that of sheep". [3] (#cite_note-3) Indian cotton clothing was well adapted to the dry, hot summers of the subcontinent (/wiki/Subcontinent) . The grand epic Mahabharata (/wiki/Mahabharata) , composed in about 400 BC, tells of the god Krishna (/wiki/Krishna) staving off Draupadi (/wiki/Draupadi) 's disrobing by bestowing an unending cheera upon her. [4] (#cite_note-4) [ better source needed ] Most of the present knowledge of ancient Indian clothing comes from rock sculptures and paintings in cave monuments such as Ellora (/wiki/Ellora_Caves) . These images show dancers and goddesses wearing what appears to be a dhoti wrap, a predecessor to the modern sari (/wiki/Sari) . The upper castes dressed in fine muslin (/wiki/Muslin) and wore gold ornaments [5] (#cite_note-5) The Indus civilisation also knew the process of silk production. An analysis of Harappan silk fibres in beads has shown that silk was made by the process of reeling (/wiki/Silk_reeling) , a process allegedly known only to China until the early centuries AD. [6] (#cite_note-6) Kimkhwab (/wiki/Kimkhwab) is an Indian brocade woven of silk and gold or silver thread. The word kimkhwāb, derived from the Persian, means "a little dream", Kimkhwāb, known in India from ancient times, was called hiraṇya, or cloth of gold, in Vedic literature ( c. 1500 BC). In the Gupta period (4th–6th century AD) it was known as puṣpapaṭa a, or cloth with woven flowers. During the Mughal (/wiki/Mughal_Empire) period (1556–1707), when kimkhwāb was extremely popular with the rich, the great centres of brocade weaving were Benares (Vārānasi), Ahmādābād, Surat, and Aurangābād. Benares is now the most important centre of kimkhwāb production. [7] (#cite_note-7) When Alexander invaded Gandhara in 327 BC, block-printed textiles from India were noticed. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) According to the Greek historian Arrian (/wiki/Arrian) : [11] (#cite_note-11) "The Indians use linen clothing, as says Nearchus, made from the flax taken from the trees, about which I have already spoken. And this flax is either whiter in colour than any other flax, or the people being black make the flax appear whiter. They have a linen frock reaching down halfway between the knee and the ankle, and a garment which is partly thrown round the shoulders and partly rolled round the head. The Indians who are very well-off wear earrings of ivory; for they do not all wear them. Nearchus says that the Indians dye their beards various colours; some that they may appear white as the whitest, others dark blue; others have them red, others purple, and others green. Those who are of any rank have umbrellas held over them in the summer. They wear shoes of white leather, elaborately worked, and the soles of their shoes are many-coloured and raised high, in order that they may appear taller." Evidence from the first century AD shows the Buddhas were portrayed as wearing saṃghāti that forms a part of the Kasaya (/wiki/Kasaya_(clothing)) of Buddhist monks. [12] (#cite_note-12) During the Maurya (/wiki/Maurya) and Gupta (/wiki/Gupta) period, the people wore both stitched and non-stitched clothing. The main items of clothing were the Antariya (/wiki/Antariya) made of white cotton or muslin, tied to the waist by a sash (/wiki/Sash) called Kayabandh and a scarf called the Uttariya (/wiki/Uttariya) used to drape the top half of the body. [ citation needed ] Terracotta head, wearing possibly an early form of pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) from the Gupta period. Shakuntala (/wiki/Shakuntala) , wife of Dushyanta (/wiki/Dushyanta) and the mother of Emperor Bharata (/wiki/Bharata_(Mahabharata)) , from Kalidasa (/wiki/K%C4%81lid%C4%81sa) 's play Abhijñānaśākuntala (/wiki/Shakuntala_(play)) , wearing a sari (/wiki/Sari) , painting by Raja Ravi Varma (/wiki/Raja_Ravi_Varma) . Dancing girl in choli; Gupta Empire (/wiki/Gupta_Empire) . Gupta (/wiki/Gupta_Empire) -period depiction of women in Ghagra choli (/wiki/Ghagra_choli) , 320–550 AD, Uttar Pradesh (/wiki/Uttar_Pradesh) , India. New trade routes, both overland and overseas, created a cultural exchange with Central Asia and Europe. Romans bought indigo (/wiki/Indigo) for dyeing and cotton cloth as articles of clothing. Trade with China via the Silk Road (/wiki/Silk_Road) introduced silk textiles using domesticated silkworms. Chanakya (/wiki/Chanakya) 's treatise on public administration (/wiki/Public_administration) , the Arthashastra (/wiki/Arthashastra) written around the third century BC, briefly describes the norms followed in silk weaving. [13] (#cite_note-Chanakya's_Arthashastra-13) A variety of weaving techniques were employed in ancient India, many of which survive to the present day. Silk and cotton were woven into various designs and motifs, each region developing its distinct style and technique. Famous among these weaving styles were the Jamdani (/wiki/Jamdani) , Kasika vastra of Varanasi (/wiki/Varanasi) , butidar , and the Ilkal saree (/wiki/Ilkal_saree) . [ citation needed ] Brocades (/wiki/Brocade) of silk were woven with gold and silver threads. The Mughals (/wiki/Mughal_Empire) played a vital role in the enhancement of the art, and the paisley (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) and Latifa Buti are examples of Mughal influence. [ citation needed ] Dyeing of clothes in ancient India was practised as an art form. Five primary colours ( Suddha-varnas ) were identified and complex colours ( Misra – varnas ) were categorised by their many hues. Sensitivity was shown to the most subtlest of shades; the ancient treatise, Vishnudharmottara (/wiki/Vishnudharmottara_Purana) states five tones of white, namely Ivory (/wiki/Ivory) , Jasmine (/wiki/Jasmine) , August moon, August clouds after the rain and the conch shell. [14] (#cite_note-Vishnudharmottara-14) The commonly used dyes were indigo (/wiki/Indigo) ( Nila ), madder red (/wiki/Common_madder) and safflower (/wiki/Safflower) . [15] (#cite_note-Ancient_pigments-15) [a] (#cite_note-16) The technique of mordant (/wiki/Mordant) dyeing was prevalent in India since the second millennium BC. [16] (#cite_note-Mordant_Dyeing-17) Resist dyeing (/wiki/Resist_dyeing) and Kalamkari (/wiki/Kalamkari) techniques were hugely popular and such textiles were the chief exports. Integral to the history of Indian clothing is the Kashmiri shawl (/wiki/Kashmiri_shawl) . Kashmiri shawl varieties include the Shahtoosh (/wiki/Shahtoosh) , popularly known as the 'ring shawl' and the pashmina (/wiki/Pashmina) wool shawls, historically called pashm . Textiles of wool find mention as long back as the Vedic times in association with Kashmir; the Rig Veda refers to the Valley of Sindh as being abundant in sheep, [ citation needed ] [b] (#cite_note-18) and the god Pushan (/wiki/Pushan) has been addressed as the 'weaver of garments', [17] (#cite_note-Kani-19) which evolved into the term pashm for the wool of the area. Woolen shawls have been mentioned in Afghan texts of the third century BC, but reference to the Kashmir work is done in the 16th century AD. The sultan of Kashmir, Zain-ul-Abidin (/wiki/Zayn_al-Abidin_the_Great) is generally credited with the founding of the industry. [18] (#cite_note-Kashmir_shawl_history-20) A story says that the Roman emperor Aurelian (/wiki/Aurelian) received a purple pallium (/wiki/Pallium) from a Persian king, made of Asian wool of the finest quality. [ citation needed ] The shawls were dyed red or purple, red dye procured from cochineal insects and purple obtained by a mixture of red and blue from indigo (/wiki/Indigo) [19] (#cite_note-Ctesias-21) The most prized Kashmiri shawls were the Jamavar (/wiki/Jamavar) and the Kanika Jamavar , woven using weaving spools with coloured thread called kani and a single shawl taking more than a year for completion and requiring 100 to 1500 kanis depending on the degree of elaboration. [17] (#cite_note-Kani-19) Indian textiles were traded from ancient times with China, Southeast Asia, and the Roman Empire (/wiki/Roman_Empire) . The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea (/wiki/Periplus_of_the_Erythraean_Sea) mentions mallow (/wiki/Mauve) cloth, muslins (/wiki/Muslin) and coarse cottons. [20] (#cite_note-Periplus-22) [c] (#cite_note-23) Port towns like Masulipatnam (/wiki/Masulipatnam) and Barygaza (/wiki/Barygaza) won fame for its production of muslins and fine cloth. Trade with the Arabs (/wiki/Arabs) who were middlemen in the spice trade (/wiki/Spice_trade) between India and Europe brought Indian textiles into Europe, where it was favored by royalty in the 17th–18th century. [21] (#cite_note-European_royalty-24) The Dutch (/wiki/Dutch_East_India_Company) , French (/wiki/French_East_India_Company) and British East India Companies (/wiki/East_India_Company) competed for monopoly of the spice trade in the Indian Ocean but were posed with the problem of payment for spices, which was in gold or silver. To counter this problem, bullion (/wiki/Bullion) was sent to India to trade for the textiles, a major portion of which were subsequently traded for spices in other trade posts, which then were traded along with the remaining textiles in London. Printed Indian calicos (/wiki/Calicos) , chintz (/wiki/Chintz) , muslins and patterned silk flooded the British market and in time the designs were copied onto imitation prints by textile manufacturers in Britain, reducing the dependence on India. [22] (#cite_note-VAM-25) Opposition to British rule in India (/wiki/British_Raj) , in particular the 1905 partition of Bengal (/wiki/Partition_of_Bengal_(1905)) , sparked the nationwide Swadeshi movement (/wiki/Swadeshi_movement) . One of the integral aims of the movement was to attain self-sufficiency, and to promote Indian goods while boycotting British goods in the market. [23] (#cite_note-Swadeshi-26) This was idealised in the production of Khadi (/wiki/Khadi) . Khadi and its products were encouraged by the nationalist leaders over British goods, while also being seen as a means to empower the rural artisans. [24] (#cite_note-Swadeshi_on_artisans-27) Female clothing [ edit ] In India, women's clothing varies widely and is closely associated with the local culture (/wiki/Indian_culture) , religion (/wiki/Indian_religions) and climate (/wiki/Climate_of_India) . Traditional Indian clothing for women across the country in Indian includes saris (/wiki/Sari) worn with choli (/wiki/Choli) tops; a skirt called a lehenga (/wiki/Lehenga) or chaniya (/wiki/Chaniya) worn with choli and a dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) scarf to create an ensemble called a ghagra choli (/wiki/Ghagra_choli) ; while many south Indian children traditionally wear Langa voni (/wiki/Langa_voni) . [ citation needed ] . Across India, saris are traditionally worn by married women although in areas such as Rajasthan (/wiki/Rajasthan) and Gujarat (/wiki/Gujarat) , for example, the chaniya choli (/wiki/Ghagra_choli) (as it is called there) is worn by all ages. In many rural parts of India, traditional clothing is still worn today due to ease of materials, comfort and accessibility. Jewellery is hugely significant for Indian men and women. Men traditionally wear rings with stones or necklaces, and for women, there is an assortment of jewellery that includes maang-tikka (/wiki/Maang_tikka) , earrings, nose rings, necklaces, bangles, waist chains, anklets and toe-rings - these all form part of the traditional Solah Shringaar (/wiki/Jewellery_of_India) for married Hindu women. A Hindu religious mark called a tilak (/wiki/Tilaka) is usually applied with sandalwood or vermillion between the eyebrows - and as such the modern iteration of the tilak known as a bindi is also worn. [ citation needed ] Indo-Western clothing (/wiki/Indo-Western_clothing) is the fusion of Western (/wiki/Western_culture) and Subcontinental (/wiki/South_Asia) fashion. Other clothing includes the churidar (/wiki/Churidar) , gamucha (/wiki/Gamucha) , kurti (/wiki/Kurti_top) and kurta (/wiki/Kurta) , dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) , lungi (/wiki/Lungi) and sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) . The traditional style of clothing in India varies with male or female distinctions. This is still followed in rural areas, though is changing in the urban areas. Traditional clothing [ edit ] Sari and wrapped garments [ edit ] Main article: Sari (/wiki/Sari) Purple silk sari worn by Vidya Balan (/wiki/Vidya_Balan) . Women in Karnataka wearing Kodagu style sari. A saree or sari [25] (#cite_note-Kalman2009-28) [26] (#cite_note-BanerjeeMiller2008-29) is a female garment in the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) . [27] (#cite_note-Roshan-30) A sari is a strip of unstitched cloth, ranging from four to nine meters in length, that is draped over the body in various styles. These include: Sambalpuri Saree (/wiki/Sambalpuri_Saree) from East, Mysore silk and Ilkal of Karnataka and, Kanchipuram (/wiki/Kanchipuram) of Tamil Nadu from South, Paithani (/wiki/Paithani) from Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) and Banarasi (/wiki/Banarasi) from North among others. [28] (#cite_note-31) The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff. [27] (#cite_note-Roshan-30) The sari is usually worn over a petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) . [29] (#cite_note-Boulanger1997-32) Blouse may be "backless" or of a halter neck style. These are usually more dressy with a lot of embellishments such as mirrors or embroidery and may be worn on special occasions. Women in the armed forces, when wearing a sari uniform, don a half-sleeve shirt tucked in at the waist. Teenage girls may wear half-sarees, a three-piece set consisting of a langa, a choli and a stole (/wiki/Stole_(shawl)) wrapped over it like a saree. Women usually wear full sarees. Indian wedding saris (/wiki/Wedding_sari) are typically red or pink, a tradition that goes back to India's pre-modern history. [30] (#cite_note-33) Saris are usually known by different names in different places. In Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) , white saris with golden borders, are known as kavanis and are worn on special occasions. A simple white sari, worn as a daily wear, is called a mundu . Saris are called pudavai in Tamil Nadu (/wiki/Tamil_Nadu) . In Karnataka (/wiki/Karnataka) , saris are called Seere . [31] (#cite_note-Seethapalli-34) The traditional production of handloom sarees (/wiki/Handloom_saree) is important to economic development in rural communities. [32] (#cite_note-ijtk-35) The Sari Series [33] (#cite_note-36) provides a documented resource of over 80 different regional drapes of India. Mundum Neriyathum Main article: Mundum Neriyathum (/wiki/Mundum_Neriyathum) Malayalee lady wearing mundum neriyathum. Painted by Raja Ravi Varma (/wiki/Raja_Ravi_Varma) , c. 1900. Mundum Neriyathum is the oldest remnant of the ancient form of the saree (/wiki/Saree) which covered only the lower part of the body. It is the traditional dress of women in Kerala (/wiki/Kerala) , a state in the southwestern part of India. [34] (#cite_note-Boulanger-37) [35] (#cite_note-Ghurye-38) The basic traditional piece is the mundu (/wiki/Mundu) or lower garment which is the ancient form of the saree denoted in Malayalam (/wiki/Malayalam) as 'Thuni' (meaning cloth), while the neriyathu forms the upper garment the mundu. [34] (#cite_note-Boulanger-37) [35] (#cite_note-Ghurye-38) Mekhela Sador Main article: Mekhela chador (/wiki/Mekhela_chador) An Assamese girl wearing mekhela sador, 2010 Mekhela Sador (Assamese: মেখেলা চাদৰ) is the traditional Assamese dress worn by women. It is worn by women of all ages. There are three main pieces of cloth that are draped around the body. The bottom portion, draped from the waist downwards is called the Mekhela (Assamese: মেখেলা). It is in the form of a sarong—a very wide cylinder of cloth—that is folded into pleats to fit around the waist and tucked in. The folds are to the right, as opposed to the pleats in the Nivi style of the saree, which are folded to the left. Strings are never used to tie the mekhela (/wiki/Mekhela) around the waist, though an underskirt with a string is often used. The top portion of the three-piece dress, called the Sador (Assamese: চাদৰ), is a long length of cloth that has one end tucked into the upper portion of the Mekhela and the rest draped over and around the rest of the body. The Sador is tucked in triangular folds. A fitted blouse is worn to cover the breasts. The third piece is called a Riha , which is worn under the Sador. It is narrow in width. This traditional dress of the Assamese women is very famous for their exclusive patterns on the body and the border. Women wear them during important religious and ceremonious occasions of marriage. Riha is worn exactly like a Sador and is used as Orni . Rignai Main article: Rignai (/wiki/Rignai) Tripuri bride in Rignai and Rikutu Rignai is the traditional dress of Tripuri women, the native inhabitants of Tripura. It is worn by wrapping it around the waist. It's worn with "Rikutu" which covers the upper half of the body. It is worn by every Tripuri woman in Tripura. [ citation needed ] The most significant rignai is called the "Chamathwi bar" and comprises white cloth bordered by maroon or other colors. The "Chamathwi bar" is worn during important occasions like wedding ceremonies and festivals like Goria Puja and Hangrai. Salwar Kameez [ edit ] Main article: Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sikh pilgrims in salwar kameez at the Harmandir Sahib (/wiki/Harmandir_Sahib) in Punjab (left); Four women wearing Salwar Kameez in Puducherry, 2006 (right) The salwar is a generic description of the lower garment incorporating the Punjabi salwar, Sindhi suthan, Dogri pajama (also called suthan), and the Kashmiri suthan. The salwar kameez has been traditionally worn by the women of the Punjab region (/wiki/Punjab_region) and neighbouring areas, including Punjab (/wiki/Punjab,_India) , Haryana, Himachal Pradesh (/wiki/Himachal_Pradesh) and Jammu and Kashmir, where the ensemble has been called the Punjabi suit , salwar suit or simply suit . The Punjabi suit also includes the "churidaar" and "kurta" ensemble which is also popular in Southern India where it is known as the "churidaar". [36] (#cite_note-Tarlo1996-39) The material for the dupatta usually depends upon that of the suit and is generally of cotton, georgette (/wiki/Georgette_(fabric)) , silk, chiffon (/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) among others. [ citation needed ] The suthan, similar to the salwar is common in Sindh (/wiki/Sindh) where it is worn with the cholo (/wiki/Sindhi_dress) [37] (#cite_note-Winer2009-40) and Kashmir (/wiki/Kashmir) where it is worn with the Phiran (/wiki/Phiran) . [38] (#cite_note-41) The Kashmiri phiran is similar to the Dogri pajama (/wiki/Jammu_dress) . The patiala salwar (/wiki/Patiala_salwar) is an exaggeratedly wide version of the salwar, its loose pleats stitched together at the bottom. [39] (#cite_note-42) [40] (#cite_note-43) Churidaar [ edit ] Main article: Churidar (/wiki/Churidar) Churidaar is a variation on the Punjabi suit which is worn by women across India as casual attire or dressed up for occasions as an alternative to the sari or lehenga choli. The Punjabi suit trouser, called the salwar and worn in the Punjab regions of India and Pakistan and across Pakistan generally, is baggy and caught in at the ankle. However the churidaar is tightly fitted especially below the knees. The material for the leg length below the knee is exaggerated so that the material can bunch together at the ankle with horizontal gathers resembling a stack of bangles which are known as ‘churi’ or ‘churiya’. [41] (#cite_note-The_Times_of_India_annual-44) The churidaar is worn with an upper garment such as a kurta top and the length of this may vary depending on the wearer's choice. In India, many churidaar tops resemble the traditional choli as they include a tight-fitting bodice and ties at the back however extra material is added from the end of the choli at the midriff to make a knee-length top, for example. Churidaars are also worn with dupattas, also known as chunnaris. Anarkali Suit Main article: Anarkali Salwar Suit (/wiki/Anarkali_Salwar_Suit) Priyanka Chopra (/wiki/Priyanka_Chopra) , a Bollywood actress, in an Anarkali suit. The Anarkali suit is made up of a long, frock-style top and features a leggings style bottom. The Anarkali is worn by some women in Northern India and mostly found in Pakistan, and the Middle East. The Anarkali suit varies in many different lengths and embroideries including floor length Anarkali styles. Many women will also opt for heavier embroidered Anarkali suits on wedding functions and events. Some Indian women wear Anarkali suits on occasions as well such as parties, casual lunches, etc. In India, the Anarkali is sleeveless or with sleeves ranging from cap- to elbow-length. [42] (#cite_note-45) Lehenga Choli (skirt and blouse) [ edit ] Main article: Ghagra choli (/wiki/Ghagra_choli) A Ghagra Choli or a Lehenga Choli is the traditional clothing of women in Rajasthan (/wiki/Rajasthan) and Gujarat (/wiki/Gujarat) . [ citation needed ] Some Punjabis also wear them and they are used in some of their folk dances. It is a combination of lehenga , a tight choli and an odhani . A lehenga is a form of a long skirt that is pleated. It is usually embroidered or has a thick border at the bottom. A choli is a blouse which is cut to fit the body; it is cropped exposing the midriff and is tied at the back with naaris or ties made from the same cloth. Different styles of ghagra cholis are worn by Indian women, ranging from a simple cotton lehenga choli as daily wear, a traditional ghagra with mirrors embellished usually worn during Navratri for the garba dance or a fully embroidered lehenga worn during the traditional Hindu and Sikh wedding ceremonies. Popular among unmarried women other than Gagra choli (/wiki/Gagra_choli) and Langa voni (/wiki/Langa_voni) are kurta tops worn over jeans or light cotton trousers (/wiki/Trousers) . [43] (#cite_note-Kelting2001-46) Pattu Pavadai/Reshme Langa Main article: Pattu pavadai (/wiki/Pattu_pavadai) Two girls wearing Pattu Pavadai. Pattu Pavadai or Langa davani is a traditional dress in south India, usually worn by teenage and small girls. The pavada is a cone-shaped skirt, usually of silk, that hangs down from the waist to the toes. It normally has a golden border at the bottom. Girls in south India often wear pattu pavadai or Langa davani during traditional functions. A version of this is worn by girls in Rajasthan before marriage (and after marriage with sight modification in certain sections of society.) Langa - Voni/Dhavani Main article: Langa voni (/wiki/Langa_voni) This is a type of South Indian dress mainly worn in Karnataka (/wiki/Karnataka) , Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu, as well as in some parts of Kerala. This dress is a three-piece garment where the langa is the cone-shaped long flowing skirt. Male clothing [ edit ] An Indian model in Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) A man wearing a dhoti. Traditional clothing [ edit ] For men, traditional clothes are the Achkan (/wiki/Achkan) / Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) , Bandhgala (/wiki/Bandhgala) , Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) , Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) , Angarkha (/wiki/Angarkha) , Jama (/wiki/Jama_costume) , Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) or Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Pajama (/wiki/Pajama) . Additionally, recently western clothing such as trousers (/wiki/Trousers) and shirts (/wiki/Shirt) have been accepted as traditional Indian dress by the Government of India. [44] (#cite_note-social-47) Undergarments [ edit ] Main articles: Kaupinam (/wiki/Kaupinam) and Langota (/wiki/Langota) A kaupin is an unsewn and langota a sewn loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) worn as underwear (/wiki/Underwear) in dangal (/wiki/Akhara#Dangal) held in akharas (/wiki/Akhara) especially wrestling (/wiki/Wrestling_in_India) , to prevent hernias (/wiki/Hernias) and hydrocele (/wiki/Hydrocele) . [45] (#cite_note-Mahatyagi2007-48) It is mandatory for Sikhs (/wiki/Sikhs) to wear kacchera (/wiki/Kacchera) . es. [46] (#cite_note-Dahl2006-49) It is held in place by a style of wrapping and sometimes with the help of a belt, ornamental and embroidered or a flat and simple one, around the waist. [47] (#cite_note-Sarina_2009-50) Owing to its widespread popularity throughout India, different languages have different terms to describe dhotis. In Marathi (/wiki/Marathi_language) , it is called dhotar . In Punjabi (/wiki/Punjabi_language) , it is known as a chadra. In Gujarati (/wiki/Gujarati_language) it's known as "Dhotiyu", while in Telugu (/wiki/Telugu_language) they are called Pancha. In Tamil (/wiki/Tamil_language) , they are called veyti, and in . Over the dhoti, men wear shirts or kurtas. Panche or Lungi [ edit ] A Chakravartin (/wiki/Chakravartin) wearing a pancha . Amaravathi (/wiki/Amaravathi_(village),_Guntur_district) , Andhra Pradesh; first century BCE. ( Musee Guimet (/wiki/Musee_Guimet) ) A Lungi is another traditional garment of India. A Mundu (/wiki/Mundu) is a lungi, except that it is always white. [47] (#cite_note-Sarina_2009-50) It is either tucked in, over the waist, up to knee-length, or is allowed to lie over and reach up to the ankle. It is usually tucked in when the person is working, in fields or workshops, and left open usually as a mark of respect, in worship places, or when the person is around dignitaries. Lungis, generally, are of two types: the open lungi and the stitched lungi. The open lungi is a plain sheet of cotton or silk, whereas the stitched one has both of its open ends stitched together to form a tube-like structure. Though mostly worn by men, elderly women also prefer lungi to other garments owing to its good aeration. [48] (#cite_note-51) It is most popular in south India, though people of Bangladesh, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, and Somalia also can be seen in lungis, because of the heat and humidity, which create an unpleasant climate for trousers, though trousers have now become common outside the house. [49] (#cite_note-Indian_Mirror_Lungi-52) Achkan [ edit ] Main article: Achkan (/wiki/Achkan) Achkan (/wiki/Achkan) sherwani and churidar (/wiki/Churidar) (lower body) worn by Arvind Singh Mewar (/wiki/Arvind_Singh_Mewar) and his kin during a Hindu wedding (/wiki/Hindu_wedding) in Rajasthan, India. Achkan is a small jacket that usually sports exposed buttons throughout the length of the jacket. The length is usually just at the knees and the jacket ends just below the knee. Achkan is very similar to the Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) which is a much longer coat-jacket dress. The jacket has a Nehru collar (/wiki/Nehru_collar) . [50] (#cite_note-Armilla2001-53) The Achkan was mostly worn with tight-fitting pants or trousers called churidars (/wiki/Churidar) . Achkan is made from various fabrics for both formal and informal occasions. The achkan features traditional Indian embroidery like gota and badla. Achkan was commonly worn by the grooms during wedding ceremonies [51] (#cite_note-54) or other formal festive occasions in the Indian subcontinent but when it evolved into the Nehru Jacket, the achkan became less worn. It was used by men. In India, the achkan is generally worn for formal occasions in winter, especially by those from Rajasthan (/wiki/Rajasthan) , Punjab (/wiki/Punjab,_India) , Uttar Pradesh and Hyderabad (/wiki/Hyderabad,_Telangana) . The achkan later evolved into the Nehru Jacket (/wiki/Nehru_Jacket) , which is now popular in India. It may be embroidered with gold or silver. A scarf called a dupatta is sometimes added to the achkan. Bandhgala [ edit ] Main article: Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) A Jodhpuri or a Bandhgala is a formal evening suit from India. It originated in the Jodhpur State (/wiki/Jodhpur_State) , and was popularized during the British Raj (/wiki/British_Raj) in India. Also known as Jodhpuri Suit , [ citation needed ] it is a western style suit product, with a coat (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) and a trouser (/wiki/Trouser) , at times accompanied by a vest (/wiki/Vest) . It brings together the western cut with Indian hand- embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) escorted by the Waist coat (/wiki/Waist_coat) . [52] (#cite_note-55) It is suitable for occasions such as weddings and formal gatherings. The material can be silk or any other suiting material. Normally, the material is lined at the collar and at the buttons with embroidery. This can be plain, jacquard, or jamewari material. Normally, the trousers match that of the coat. There is also a trend now to wear contrasting trousers to match the coat colour. Bandhgala quickly became a popular formal and semi-formal uniform across Rajasthan (/wiki/Rajasthan) and eventually throughout India. [53] (#cite_note-56) Angarkha [ edit ] Garba (/wiki/Garba_(dance)) dancers, Ahmedabad (/wiki/Ahmedabad) . On the left, a male dancer in a Gujarati Angarakha The term angarkha is derived from the Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit) word Aṅgarakṣaka , which means protection of the body. [54] (#cite_note-57) The angarkha was worn in various parts of the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) , but while the basic cut remained the same, styles and lengths varied from region to region. Angarakha is a traditional upper garment worn in the Indian subcontinent which overlaps and is tied to the left or right shoulder. Historically, the Angrakha was a court outfit that a person could wrap around himself, offering flexible ease with the knots and ties appropriate for wearing in the various principalities of ancient India. [55] (#cite_note-58) Jama [ edit ] The jama (/wiki/Jama_(coat)) is a long coat that was popular during the Mughal period (/wiki/Mughal_Empire) . There are many types of jama costumes which were worn in various regions of South Asia (/wiki/South_Asia) , the use of which began to wane by the end of the 19th century A.D. [56] (#cite_note-59) However, men in parts of Kutch still wear the jama also known as the angarkha (/wiki/Angarkha) [57] (#cite_note-60) which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips. [58] (#cite_note-61) However, some styles fall to below the knees. Headgear [ edit ] The Indian turban or the pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) is worn in many regions in the country, incorporating various styles and designs depending on the place. Other types of headgear such as the Taqiyah (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) and Gandhi cap (/wiki/Gandhi_cap) are worn by different communities within the country to signify a common ideology or interest. Dastar [ edit ] Main article: Dastar (/wiki/Dastar) Sikh man and women wearing Turban (/wiki/Turban) The Dastar (/wiki/Dastar) , also known as a pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) , is a turban worn by the Sikh (/wiki/Sikh) community of India. Is a symbol of faith representing values such as valour, honour and spirituality among others. It is worn to protect the Sikh's long, uncut hair, the Kesh (/wiki/Kesh_(Sikhism)) which is one of the Five Ks (/wiki/The_Five_Ks) of Sikhism (/wiki/Sikhism) . [59] (#cite_note-kesh-62) Over the years, the dastar has evolved into different styles pertaining to the various sects of Sikhism such as the Nihang (/wiki/Nihang) and the Namdhari (/wiki/Namdhari) . [60] (#cite_note-dastar_types-63) Pheta [ edit ] Main article: Pheta (/wiki/Pheta) Pheta is the Marathi (/wiki/Marathi_language) name for turbans worn in the state of Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) . Its usually worn during traditional ceremonies and occasions. It was a mandatory part of clothing in the past and have evolved into various styles in different regions. [61] (#cite_note-pheta-64) The main types are the Puneri Pagadi (/wiki/Puneri_Pagadi) , Kolhapuri and Mawali pheta . [62] (#cite_note-pheta2-65) Mysore Peta [ edit ] Main article: Mysore peta (/wiki/Mysore_peta) Traditional Mysore Peta on a bust of M. Visvesvaraya (/wiki/M._Visvesvaraya) Originally worn by the kings of Mysore (/wiki/Mysore) during formal meeting in durbar (/wiki/Durbar_(court)) and in ceremonial processions during festivals, and meeting with foreign dignitaries, the Mysore peta has come to signify the cultural tradition of the Mysore and Kodagu district (/wiki/Kodagu_district) . [63] (#cite_note-mysore_peta-66) The Mysore University (/wiki/Mysore_University) replaced the conventional mortarboard (/wiki/Mortarboard) used in graduation ceremonies with the traditional peta . [64] (#cite_note-mysore_graduation-67) Rajasthani safa [ edit ] Turbans in Rajasthan (/wiki/Rajasthan) are called pagari or "safa". They are distinctive in style and colour, and indicate the caste, social class and region of the wearer. In the hot and dry regions, turbans are large and loose. The paggar is traditional in Mewar (/wiki/Mewar) while the safa is to Marwar (/wiki/Marwar) . [65] (#cite_note-paggar-68) The colour of the pagaris have special importance and so does the pagari itself. In the past, saffron stood for valour and chivalry. A white turban stood for mourning. The exchange of a turban meant undying friendship. [66] (#cite_note-turban_raj-69) [67] (#cite_note-pagari-70) Jawaharlal Nehru (/wiki/Jawaharlal_Nehru) wearing the Gandhi cap, 1946 Gandhi topi [ edit ] Main article: Gandhi topi (/wiki/Gandhi_topi) The Gandhi cap, a white coloured cap made of khadi (/wiki/Khadi) was popularised by Mahatma Gandhi (/wiki/Mahatma_Gandhi) during the Indian independence movement (/wiki/Indian_independence_movement) . The practice of wearing a Gandhi cap was carried on even after independence and became a symbolic tradition for politicians and social activists. The cap has been worn throughout history in many states such as Gujarat (/wiki/Gujarat) , Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) , Uttar Pradesh (/wiki/Uttar_Pradesh) and West Bengal (/wiki/West_Bengal) and is still worn by many people without political significance. In 2013, the cap regained its political symbolism through the Aam Aadmi Party (/wiki/Aam_Aadmi_Party) , which flaunted Gandhi caps with "I am a Common Man" written over it. This was partly influenced by the "I Am Anna" caps used during Anna Hazare (/wiki/Anna_Hazare) 's Lokpal movement. During the 2013 Delhi Legislative Assembly election (/wiki/2013_Delhi_Legislative_Assembly_election) , these caps led to a scuffle between Aam Aadmi Party and Congress workers, based on the reasoning that Gandhi caps were being used for political benefits. [68] (#cite_note-71) The Kashmir shawl [ edit ] Main article: Kashmir shawl (/wiki/Kashmir_shawl) One of India's most famous exports was the Kashmir shawl, distinctive for its Kashmiri weave, and traditionally made of shahtoosh (/wiki/Shahtoosh) or pashmina (/wiki/Pashmina) wool. Valued for its warmth, lightweight, and characteristic buta design, the Kashmir shawl was originally used by Mughal royalty and nobility. In the late 18th century, it arrived in Europe, where its use by Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) and Empress Joséphine of France (/wiki/Empress_Jos%C3%A9phine) popularised it as a symbol of exotic luxury and status. It became a toponym for the Kashmir (/wiki/Kashmir) region itself (as cashmere (/wiki/Cashmere_wool) ), inspiring mass-produced imitation industries in Europe, and popularising the buta , today known as the Paisley motif (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) . Today, it continues to be a symbol of luxury in the Western world, commonly used as a gift to visiting dignitaries and used by public figures. Contemporary clothing [ edit ] Main article: Fashion in India (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) Main article: Indo-Western clothing (/wiki/Indo-Western_clothing) During the 1960s (/wiki/1960s_in_fashion) and 1970s (/wiki/1970s_in_fashion) , at the same time as Western fashion was absorbing elements of Indian dress, Indian fashion also began to actively absorb elements of Western dress. [69] (#cite_note-craik38-72) [70] (#cite_note-geczy-73) Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Western designers enthusiastically incorporated traditional Indian crafts, textiles and techniques in their work at the same time as Indian designers allowed the West to influence their work. [69] (#cite_note-craik38-72) [70] (#cite_note-geczy-73) By the turn of the 21st century, both Western and Indian clothing had intermingled creating a unique style of clothing for the typical urban Indian population. Women started wearing more comfortable clothing and exposure to international fashion led to a fusion of western and Indian styles of clothing (/wiki/Indo-Western_clothing) . [69] (#cite_note-craik38-72) [70] (#cite_note-geczy-73) While women have the choice to wear either Western or traditional dress to work, [71] (#cite_note-lakha-74) most Indian multinational companies insist that male employees wear Western dress. Women's clothing in India nowadays consists of both formal and casual wear such as gowns, pants, shirts, and tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) . Traditional Indian clothing such as the kurti have been combined with jeans to form part of casual attire. [70] (#cite_note-geczy-73) Fashion designers in India have blended several elements of Indian traditional designs into conventional western wear to create a unique style of contemporary Indian fashion. [69] (#cite_note-craik38-72) [70] (#cite_note-geczy-73) See also [ edit ] India portal (/wiki/Portal:India) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Wikimedia Commons has media related to Clothing of India (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Clothing_of_India) . Fashion designers of India (/wiki/List_of_fashion_designers#India) Fashion in India (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) Kimkhwab (/wiki/Kimkhwab) 1950s in Indian fashion (/wiki/1950s_in_Indian_fashion) 1960s in Indian fashion (/wiki/1960s_in_Indian_fashion) 1970s in Asian fashion (/wiki/1970s_in_Asian_fashion) 1980s in Indian fashion (/wiki/1980s_in_Indian_fashion) National Institute of Fashion Technology (/wiki/National_Institute_of_Fashion_Technology) 1990s in Indian fashion (/wiki/1990s_in_Indian_fashion) 2000s in Indian fashion (/wiki/2000s_in_Indian_fashion) 2010s in Indian fashion (/wiki/2010s_in_Indian_fashion) Bibliography [ edit ] J.Forbes Watson (1866). The Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the People of India . India Office by George Edward Eyre and William Spottiswoode, London. Illustrations of the Textile Manufactures of India . Victoria & Albert Museum, London. 1881. Albert Buell Lewis (1924). Block Prints from India for Textiles . Field Museum for Natural History, Chicago. Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-16) These were vegetable dyes, commonly used in textiles. Non-vegetable dyes were also used such as gairika (red ochre), sindura (red lead), kajal (lampblack), sulphate of iron, sulphate of antimony (/wiki/Antimony) and carmine (/wiki/Carmine) . [15] (#cite_note-Ancient_pigments-15) ^ (#cite_ref-18) The Rig Veda (/wiki/Rig_Veda) , Mandala 10, hymn 75, mentions the valley of Sindhu as suvasa urnavati i.e home to plenty of sheep [ citation needed ] ^ (#cite_ref-23) The Periplus states the various regions of production of cloth, including the Gangetic plain. Ancient Romans called Indian textiles by names such as gangetika , nebula and venti meaning woven wind. Marco Polo (/wiki/Marco_Polo) 's Description of the world gives an idea of textile trade of the time, with a mention that Gujarat has the best textiles in the world. [20] (#cite_note-Periplus-22) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Admin. "Traditional Dresses and Fashion Culture across different Indian States" (http://www.lisaadelhi.com/traditional-dresses-and-fashion-culture-across-different-indian-states/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180510184639/http://www.lisaadelhi.com/traditional-dresses-and-fashion-culture-across-different-indian-states/) 10 May 2018 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , [LisaaDelhi] , Retrieved 10 May 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Weaving in Ancient India" (http://www.textileasart.com/weaving.htm) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20121122175626/http://www.textileasart.com/weaving.htm) from the original on 22 November 2012 . 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Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20121019113746/http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/indian-textiles-introduction/) from the original on 19 October 2012 . Retrieved 15 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-Swadeshi_26-0) "Swadeshi movement in India" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220624081250/https://www.academia.edu/1798102) (Press release). WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO MAHARASHTRA. Archived from the original (https://www.academia.edu/1798102) on 24 June 2022 . Retrieved 15 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-Swadeshi_on_artisans_27-0) A companion to the Anthropology of India . Wiley- Blackwell. 8 March 2011. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781405198929 . ^ (#cite_ref-Kalman2009_28-0) Kalman, Bobbie (2009). India: The Culture . Crabtree Publishing Company. p. 17. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7787-9287-1 . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140707201757/http://books.google.com/books?id=UuDBEsOF6G4C&pg=PA17) from the original on 7 July 2014 . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200729152518/https://books.google.com/books?id=V6CEAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA263) from the original on 29 July 2020 . Retrieved 30 August 2017 . Further reading [ edit ] Boroian, Michael; Poix, Alix de. (2008). India by Design: The Pursuit of Luxury and Fashion (https://books.google.com/books?id=R531j7QrmGUC) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-470-82396-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-470-82396-8) . Russell, Rebecca Ross (2010). Ownership Case Study: Indian Wife/Widow Jewelry, in: Gender and Jewelry: A Feminist Analysis (https://books.google.com/books?id=Wx11yQK3J3QC) . CreateSpace. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-4528-8253-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-4528-8253-3) . v t e Clothing in India Clothes Achkan (/wiki/Achkan) Ajrak (/wiki/Ajrak) Angarkha (/wiki/Angarkha) Antriya (/wiki/Antriya) Bakhu/Kho (/wiki/Kho_(costume)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Choli (/wiki/Choli) Churidar (/wiki/Churidar) Daura-Suruwal (/wiki/Daura-Suruwal) Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) Dumdyam (/wiki/Dumdyam) Dumpra (/wiki/Dumpra) Dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) Farshi Pajama (/wiki/Farshi_Pajama) Gagra choli (/wiki/Gagra_choli) Ghoonghat (/wiki/Ghoonghat) Gamucha (/wiki/Gamucha) Gamosa (/wiki/Gamosa) Gharara (/wiki/Gharara) Gho (/wiki/Gho) Jamawar (/wiki/Jamawar) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Kabney (/wiki/Kabney) Kasta sari (/wiki/Kasta_sari) Kaupina(m) (/wiki/Kaupinam) Khalat (/wiki/Khalat) Kira (/wiki/Kira_(Bhutan)) Kota Doria (/wiki/Kota_Doria) Krama (/wiki/Krama) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Lehenga (/wiki/Lehenga) Lehenga Style Saree (/wiki/Lehenga_Style_Saree) Langa Voni (/wiki/Langa_Voni) Langota (/wiki/Langota) Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) Madisar (/wiki/Madisar) Mekhela chador (/wiki/Mekhela_chador) Mufti (/wiki/Mufti_(dress)) Mundu (/wiki/Mundu) Mundum Neriyathum (/wiki/Mundum_Neriyathum) Naga shawl (/wiki/Naga_shawl) Nehru jacket (/wiki/Nehru_jacket) Onnara (/wiki/Onnara) Patiala salwar (/wiki/Patiala_salwar) Phiran (/wiki/Phiran) Riha (/wiki/Riha_(garment)) Sari (/wiki/Sari) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sambalpuri saree (/wiki/Sambalpuri_saree) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Kerala sari (/wiki/Kerala_sari) Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) Toego (/wiki/Toego) Uttariya (/wiki/Uttariya) Wonju (/wiki/Wonju_(Bhutan)) Headgear Dhaka topi (/wiki/Dhaka_topi) Gandhi cap (/wiki/Gandhi_cap) Jaapi (/wiki/Jaapi) Karakul (/wiki/Karakul_(hat)) Kolhapuri pheta (/wiki/Kolhapuri_pheta) Mysore Peta (/wiki/Mysore_Peta) Paag (/wiki/Paag) Pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) Pakol (/wiki/Pakol) Phesta (/wiki/Pheta_(turban)) Puneri Pagadi (/wiki/Puneri_Pagadi) Rumi topi/Fez (/wiki/Rumi_topi) Sehra (/wiki/Sehra_(headdress)) Sindhi cap (/wiki/Sindhi_cap) Taqiyah (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Stitching and design Embroidery of India (/wiki/Embroidery_of_India) Bandhani (/wiki/Bandhani) Chikankari (/wiki/Chikan_(embroidery)) Gota (/wiki/Gota_(embroidery)) Kantha (/wiki/Kantha) Kasuti (/wiki/Kasuti) Nakshi (/wiki/Nakshi_kantha) Phulkari (/wiki/Phulkari) Shisha (/wiki/Shisha_(embroidery)) Zardozi (/wiki/Zardozi) Zari (/wiki/Zari) Footwear Jutti (/wiki/Jutti) Kholapuri (/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal) Mojari (/wiki/Mojari) Paduka (/wiki/Paduka) Peshawari chappal (/wiki/Peshawari_chappal) v t e Clothing in South Asia History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_in_the_Indian_subcontinent) Clothes Achkan (/wiki/Achkan) Ajrak (/wiki/Ajrak) Angarkha (/wiki/Angarkha) Antriya (/wiki/Antriya) Argon (/wiki/Argon_(clothing)) Bakhu/Kho (/wiki/Kho_(costume)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) Choli (/wiki/Choli) Churidar (/wiki/Churidar) Daura-Suruwal (/wiki/Daura-Suruwal) Dhakai shari (/wiki/Dhakai) Dhoti 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(/wiki/Patiala_salwar) Pheran (/wiki/Pheran) Pinon hadi (/wiki/Pinon_hadi) Riha (/wiki/Riha_(garment)) Sari (/wiki/Sari) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sambalpuri sari (/wiki/Sambalpuri_sari) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Kerala sari (/wiki/Kerala_sari) Tant shari (/wiki/Tant_sari) Toego (/wiki/Toego) Uttariya (/wiki/Uttariya) Wonju (/wiki/Wonju_(Bhutan)) Headgear Bhaad-gaaule topi (/wiki/Bhaad-gaaule_topi) Birke topi (/wiki/Birke_topi) Dhaka topi (/wiki/Dhaka_topi) Gandhi cap (/wiki/Gandhi_cap) Jaapi (/wiki/Jaapi) Karakul (/wiki/Karakul_(hat)) Pheta (/wiki/Pheta) Mysore peta (/wiki/Mysore_peta) Paag (/wiki/Paag) Pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) Pakol (/wiki/Pakol) Puneri Pagadi (/wiki/Puneri_Pagadi) Rumāl (/wiki/Rum%C4%81l) Rumi topi/Fez (/wiki/Rumi_topi) Sehra (/wiki/Sehra_(headdress)) Shyade (/wiki/Shyade) Sindhi cap (/wiki/Sindhi_cap) Taqiyah (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) Topor (/wiki/Topor_(headgear)) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Stitching and design Embroidery of India (/wiki/Embroidery_of_India) Bandhani (/wiki/Bandhani) Chikankari (/wiki/Chikan_(embroidery)) Dhaka (/wiki/Dhaka_fabric) Gota (/wiki/Gota_(embroidery)) Jamdani (/wiki/Jamdani) Kantha (/wiki/Kantha) Kasuti (/wiki/Kasuti) Khadi (/wiki/Khadi) Muslin (/wiki/Muslin) Nakshi (/wiki/Nakshi_kantha) Phulkari (/wiki/Phulkari) Rajshahi silk (/wiki/Rajshahi_silk) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Shisha (/wiki/Shisha_(embroidery)) Zardozi (/wiki/Zardozi) Zari (/wiki/Zari) Footwear Jutti (/wiki/Jutti) Kholapuri (/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal) Mojari (/wiki/Sindhi_Mojari) Paduka (/wiki/Paduka) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐b4nf6 Cached time: 20240720163608 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.581 seconds Real time usage: 2.103 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 7659/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 202485/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 10912/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 33/500 Unstrip 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Aesthetic movement This article includes a list of general references (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) , but it lacks sufficient corresponding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Please help to improve (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Reliability) this article by introducing (/wiki/Wikipedia:When_to_cite) more precise citations. ( August 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A collection of people dressed in Neo-Victorian clothing Neo-Victorianism is an aesthetic (/wiki/Aesthetic) movement that features an overt nostalgia for the Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_era) period. In arts and crafts [ edit ] See also: Victorian decorative arts (/wiki/Victorian_decorative_arts) Examples of crafts made in this style would include push-button cordless telephones (/wiki/Cordless_telephone) made to look like antique wall-mounted phones, CD players (/wiki/CD_player) resembling old time radios, Victorianesque furniture, and Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) -style clothing. In neo-romantic (/wiki/Neo-romanticism) and fantasy art, one can often see the elements of Victorian aesthetic values. There is also a strongly emerging genre of steampunk (/wiki/Steampunk) art. McDermott & McGough (/wiki/McDermott_%26_McGough) are a couple of contemporary artists whose work is all about a recreation of life in the nineteenth century: they only use the ultimate technology available, and since they are supposed to live anachronistically, this means the use of earlier photographic processes, and maintaining the illusion of a life stuck in the ways of a forgotten era. [1] (#cite_note-1) Works of fiction [ edit ] Neo-Victorian works of fiction are creative narrative works set in the Victorian period, but written, interpreted or reproduced by more contemporary artists. Many neo-Victorian novels have reinterpreted, reproduced and rewritten Victorian culture. Significant texts include The French Lieutenant’s Woman ( John Fowles (/wiki/John_Fowles) , 1969), Possession ( A. S. Byatt (/wiki/A._S._Byatt) , 1990), Arthur and George ( Julian Barnes (/wiki/Julian_Barnes) , 2005), Dorian, An Imitation ( Will Self (/wiki/Will_Self) , 2002) Jack Maggs (/wiki/Jack_Maggs) ( Peter Carey (/wiki/Peter_Carey_(novelist)) , 1997), Wide Sargasso Sea (/wiki/Wide_Sargasso_Sea) ( Jean Rhys (/wiki/Jean_Rhys) , 1966). Recent neo-Victorian novels have often been adapted to the screen, from The French Lieutenant’s Woman (Karel Reisz, 1981) to the television adaptations of Sarah Waters (/wiki/Sarah_Waters) ( Tipping the Velvet (/wiki/Tipping_the_Velvet_(TV_series)) , BBC2, 2002, Fingersmith (/wiki/Fingersmith_(TV_serial)) , BBC1, 2005, Affinity (/wiki/Affinity_(film)) ITV, 2008) and Michel Faber (/wiki/Michel_Faber) ( The Crimson Petal and the White (/wiki/The_Crimson_Petal_and_the_White_(miniseries)) , BBC 1, 2011). These narratives may indicate a 'sexsation' of neo-Victorianism, [2] (#cite_note-2) and have been called "in-yer-face" neo-Victorianism (Voigts-Virchow). [3] (#cite_note-3) Recent productions of neo-Victorianism on screen include Guy Ritchie (/wiki/Guy_Ritchie) ’s Sherlock Holmes (/wiki/Sherlock_Holmes_(2009_film)) films and TV series such as Sherlock (/wiki/Sherlock_(TV_series)) , Ripper Street (/wiki/Ripper_Street) , Whitechapel (/wiki/Whitechapel_(TV_series)) , Murdoch Mysteries (/wiki/Murdoch_Mysteries) and Penny Dreadful (/wiki/Penny_Dreadful_(TV_series)) . The neo-Victorian formula can be expanded to include Edwardian consumer culture ( Downton Abbey (/wiki/Downton_Abbey) , The Paradise (/wiki/The_Paradise_(TV_series)) and Mr Selfridge (/wiki/Mr_Selfridge) ). In dress and behaviour [ edit ] See also: Victorian fashion (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) and Steampunk (/wiki/Steampunk) This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Neo-Victorian) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( January 2013 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Many who have adopted Neo-Victorian style have also adopted Victorian behavioural affectations, seeking to imitate standards of Victorian conduct, pronunciation, interpersonal interaction. Some even go so far as to embrace certain Victorian habits such as shaving with straight razors (/wiki/Straight_razors) , riding penny farthings (/wiki/Penny_farthing) , exchanging calling cards (/wiki/Visiting_card) , and using fountain pens (/wiki/Fountain_pen) to write letters in florid prose (/wiki/Purple_prose) sealed by wax. Gothic fashion (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) sometimes incorporates Neo-Victorian style. Neo-Victorianism is embraced in, but also quite distinguished from, the Lolita (/wiki/Lolita_fashion) , Aristocrat (/wiki/Aristocrat_(fashion)) and Madam (/wiki/Madam_(fashion)) fashions popular in Japan, and which are becoming more noticeable in Europe. Social conservatives [ edit ] Neo-Victorian aesthetics (/wiki/Aesthetic) are also popular in the United States (/wiki/United_States) and United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) among cultural conservatives (/wiki/Cultural_conservatives) and social conservatives (/wiki/Social_conservatives) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Books such as The Benevolence of Manners: Recapturing the Lost Art of Gracious Victorian Living call for a return to Victorian morality (/wiki/Victorian_morality) . [5] (#cite_note-5) The term Neo-Victorian is also commonly used in a derogatory way towards social conservatives. Many of the things that seem commonplace in modern life began in the Victorian era, such as sponsorship, sensational journalism and popular merchandise. [6] (#cite_note-6) Research [ edit ] In September 2007, The University of Exeter (/wiki/The_University_of_Exeter) explored the phenomenon in a major international conference titled Neo-Victorianism: The Politics and Aesthetics of Appropriation . [7] (#cite_note-7) Academic studies include Neo-Victorianism: The Victorians in the Twenty-First Century, 1999–2009 . [8] (#cite_note-8) Other foundational texts of neo-Victorian criticism are Kucich and Sadoff (2000), Kaplan (2007), Kohlke (2008-), Munford and Young (2009), Mitchell (2010), Davies (2012), Whelehan (2012), Kleinecke-Bates (2014), Böhm-Schnitker and Gruss (2014), Tomaiuolo (2018), and others. In popular culture and literature [ edit ] See also: Victorian literature (/wiki/Victorian_literature) and List of 19th-century British children's literature titles (/wiki/List_of_19th-century_British_children%27s_literature_titles) Neo-Victorianism can also be seen in the growing steampunk (/wiki/Steampunk) genre of speculative fiction (/wiki/Speculative_fiction) and in music performers such as Emilie Autumn (/wiki/Emilie_Autumn) . Neo-Victorianism is also popular with, and in many ways prefigured by, those who are interested in Victoriana (/wiki/Victoriana) and historical reenactment (/wiki/Historical_reenactment) . Neo-Victorian details appear in The Diamond Age (/wiki/The_Diamond_Age) by Neal Stephenson (/wiki/Neal_Stephenson) , [9] (#cite_note-9) in which Neo-Victorians are one of the main groups of protagonists. Carnival Diablo (/wiki/Carnival_Diablo) is a Neo-Victorian circus sideshow that has been touring North America for 20 years. Unhallowed Metropolis is a roleplaying game (/wiki/Role-playing_game) based in a Neo-Victorian setting. See also [ edit ] Society portal (/wiki/Portal:Society) United Kingdom portal (/wiki/Portal:United_Kingdom) Victorian era portal (/wiki/Portal:Victorian_era) Hipster (contemporary subculture) (/wiki/Hipster_(contemporary_subculture)) Victorian architecture (/wiki/Victorian_architecture) Victorian house (/wiki/Victorian_house) Victorian morality (/wiki/Victorian_morality) Victoriana (/wiki/Victoriana) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) McDermott, David; McGough (1998). & :A History of Photography (1st ed.). Santa Fe: Arena Editions. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0965728027 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) (Kohlke) (https://web.archive.org/web/20150722082128/http://inter-disciplinary.net/ci/transformations/sexualities/s3/Kohlke%20paper.pdf) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Voigts-Virchow, Eckart (2009). " 'In-yer-Victorian-face: A Subcultural Hermeneutics of Neo-Victorianism". LIT: Literature Interpretation Theory . 20 (1–2): 108–125. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/10436920802690604 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F10436920802690604) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 144373988 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:144373988) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Is This a "Victorian" Site?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130928022756/http://www.ladiesagainstfeminism.com/artman/publish/LAF_Theme_Articles_13/Is_This_a_Victorian_Site_41004.shtml) . Ladiesagainstfeminism.com. Archived from the original (http://www.ladiesagainstfeminism.com/artman/publish/LAF_Theme_Articles_13/Is_This_a_Victorian_Site_41004.shtml) on 2013-09-28 . Retrieved 2013-04-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Lichter, Linda S. (1999). The Benevolence of Manners: Recapturing the Lost Art of Gracious Victorian Living (1st ReganBooks/Harper Perennial ed.). New York: ReganBooks. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0060987459 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Sweet, Matthew (2001). Inventing the Victorians (1st U.S. ed.). New York: St. Martin's Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0312283261 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "CFP | call for papers" (https://call-for-papers.sas.upenn.edu/node/31784) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Heilmann, Ann; Llewellyn, Mark (2010). Neo-Victorianism : the Victorians in the twenty-first century, 1999-2009 . Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-230-24113-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Stephenson, Neal (2003). The Diamond Age: Or, a Young Lady's Illustrated Primer (Bantam trade pbk. reissue. ed.). New York: Bamtam Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0553380965 . Further reading [ edit ] Chrisman, Sarah Waisted Curves: My Transformation Into A Victorian Lady 2010. Aegis & Owl Press Neo-Victorian Studies (http://www.neovictorianstudies.com/) (peer-reviewed web journal) Primorac, Antonija. Neo-Victorianism on Screen. Postfeminism and Contemporary Adaptations of Victorian Women. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2017. Heilmann, Ann; Llewellyn, Mark. Neo-Victorianism : the Victorians in the twenty-first century, 1999-2009. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2007. Special issue on neo-Victorianism. LIT: Literature Interpretation Theory . 20 (1–2) Tomaiuolo, Saverio. Neo-Victorian Deviance. Canon, Transgression, Innovation. 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American clothing manufacturer Fruit of the Loom, Inc. Company headquarters building in Bowling Green, Kentucky (/wiki/Bowling_Green,_Kentucky) Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Textile (/wiki/Textile_industry) , sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) Founded 1851 ; 173 years ago ( 1851 ) in Warwick, Rhode Island (/wiki/Warwick,_Rhode_Island) , U.S. (as "B.B and R Knight Corp.) [1] (#cite_note-bloom-1) Founders Robert Knight (/wiki/Robert_Knight_(industrialist)) & Benjamin Knight (/wiki/Benjamin_Knight) [2] (#cite_note-offic-2) Headquarters Bowling Green (/wiki/Bowling_Green,_Kentucky) , Kentucky (/wiki/Kentucky) , United States (/wiki/United_States) Area served Worldwide Products Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) ( casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) , activewear (/wiki/Activewear) ), sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) Brands Exquisite Form (/wiki/Exquisite_Form) Number of employees 32,400 Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Berkshire Hathaway (/wiki/Berkshire_Hathaway) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Russell Athletic (/wiki/Russell_Athletic_(brand)) Spalding (/wiki/Spalding_(company)) Vanity Fair (intimates) Website fruit.com (https://www.fruit.com/) Fruit of the Loom is an American company that manufactures clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , particularly casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) and underwear (/wiki/Undergarment) . The company's world headquarters is located in Bowling Green, Kentucky (/wiki/Bowling_Green,_Kentucky) . Since 2002, it has been a wholly owned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway (/wiki/Berkshire_Hathaway) . Products manufactured by Fruit of the Loom itself and through its subsidiaries include clothing ( t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , jackets (/wiki/Jacket) , sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) , shorts (/wiki/Shorts) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) ), and sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) ( softballs (/wiki/Softball) and basketballs (/wiki/Basketball_(ball)) ) manufactured and commercialized by Spalding (/wiki/Spalding_(company)) . Company profile [ edit ] Fruit of the Loom is one of the largest manufacturers and marketers of underwear, printable T-shirts and fleece for the activewear industry, casualwear, women's jeanswear, and childrenswear. The company employs more than 32,400 people worldwide. [ citation needed ] The company's logo comprises a red apple, leaves, green grapes, purple grapes, and white currants (or yellow gooseberries), [3] (#cite_note-3) but not a cornucopia. In July 2023, a Snopes (/wiki/Snopes) reporter said that a search of newspaper advertisements between the 1920s and 2020s revealed none that depicted a cornucopia (/wiki/Cornucopia) — this is often cited as an example of the Mandela Effect (/wiki/Mandela_Effect) . [4] (#cite_note-4) The company is a vertically integrated (/wiki/Vertical_integration) manufacturer. In 2006, Fruit of the Loom acquired Russell Brands, LLC (/wiki/Russell_Brands) , a global company whose brands included Russell Athletic (/wiki/Russell_Athletic_(brand)) , Brooks Running (/wiki/Brooks_Sports) , and Spalding (/wiki/Spalding_(sports_equipment)) , among other names in athletic wear. [5] (#cite_note-wire-5) The purchase amount was $600 million. [6] (#cite_note-refbusiness-6) History [ edit ] Rhode Island beginnings [ edit ] The origin of the Fruit of the Loom company dates back to 1851 in Rhode Island (/wiki/Rhode_Island) , [7] (#cite_note-FOTL-7) [8] (#cite_note-Fastco-8) when textile mill owner Robert Knight (/wiki/Robert_Knight_(industrialist)) and his brother Benjamin (/wiki/Benjamin_Knight) established the "B.B. and R. Knight Corporation" after they acquired the Pontiac Mills (/wiki/Pontiac_Mills) in Warwick, Rhode Island (/wiki/Warwick,_Rhode_Island) . In 1856, the company introduced the brand name "Fruit of the Loom (/wiki/Loom) ", while producing its first muslins (/wiki/Muslin) . [2] (#cite_note-offic-2) A friend of Robert Knight named Rufus Skeel owned a small shop in Providence (/wiki/Providence,_Rhode_Island) that sold cloth from Knight's mill. Skeel's daughter painted images of apples and applied them to the bolts of cloth. The ones with the apple emblems proved most popular. Knight thought the labels would be the perfect symbol for his trade name, Fruit of the Loom (/wiki/Loom) – an expression referring to clothes, paralleling the phrase "fruit of the womb", which can be traced back to the Bible (/wiki/Bible) (Psalm 127:3). [9] (#cite_note-9) In 1871, just one year after the first trademark laws were passed by Congress, Knight received trademark number 418 for the brand "Fruit of the Loom". Much of its athletic outerwear was sold under the "Pro Player" label, a now defunct division. [ citation needed ] 20th century [ edit ] Earth 20th century newspaper ad for Fruit of the Loom muslin (/wiki/Muslin) fabric (1921) The company was part of Northwest Industries (/wiki/Northwest_Industries) , Inc., until NWI was purchased by William F. Farley (/wiki/William_F._Farley) in 1985 and renamed Farley Industries, Inc. [10] (#cite_note-10) Farley served as president, CEO, and majority shareholder for 15 years. Fruit of the Loom's sales revenue rose from approximately US$500 million at the time of NWI's purchase (equivalent to $1.42 billion in 2023) to roughly US$2.5 billion nearly 15 years later (equivalent to $4.42 billion in 2023), about a three-fold increase after inflation. Debt financing proved difficult to manage, however, even as dollar sales revenue quintupled. [ citation needed ] On March 23, 1987, the company sold its subsidiary General Battery to Exide Corporation (/wiki/Exide) . [11] (#cite_note-11) In the 1990s, the American textile industry overall experienced widespread downsizing in the wake of North American Free Trade Agreement (/wiki/North_American_Free_Trade_Agreement) and General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (/wiki/General_Agreement_on_Tariffs_and_Trade) . [12] (#cite_note-NYT1995-12) In 1995, Chairman Farley announced that the company would close six plants in the Southeastern United States (/wiki/Southeastern_United_States) , and cut back operations at two others. Operations were moved to cheaper plants abroad. 3,200 workers, or about 12 percent of its American work force, were laid off. Farley also announced that company earnings fell 22 percent, despite a 10 percent increase in sales. [12] (#cite_note-NYT1995-12) In 1999, Fruit of the Loom filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy (/wiki/Bankruptcy) protection, shortly after posting a net loss of $576.2 million. [13] (#cite_note-LATimes-13) Its 66 million shares of outstanding common stock dropped in value from about $44 per share in early 1997 to just more than $1 by spring 2000. Reasons for the bankruptcy are varied. A large debt load which was assumed in the 1980s, a common practice at the time, did not help. William F. "Bill" Farley, the company's former chairman, CEO, and COO, was ousted prior to the bankruptcy filing in late 1999, after having piloted the company into massive debt and unproductive business ventures, [ citation needed ] including structuring the company into an off-shore entity in the Cayman Islands (/wiki/Cayman_Islands) to avoid taxes. [14] (#cite_note-14) 21st century [ edit ] The company was bought from bankruptcy by Berkshire Hathaway (/wiki/Berkshire_Hathaway) Corporation, controlled by investor Warren Buffett (/wiki/Warren_Buffett) , who wanted the valuable brand. He agreed in January 2002 to purchase the company for approximately $835 million in cash. The deal was concluded on April 29, 2002. A condition of the purchase required that former COO and then interim CEO John Holland remain available to be the CEO for the company. [15] (#cite_note-15) The company purchased Russell Brands, LLC (/wiki/Russell_Brands) , effectively taking the former competitor private, in a deal valued at $598.3 million that was completed August 1, 2006. [16] (#cite_note-RussellPurchase-16) The company announced the purchase of VF Corporation (/wiki/VF_Corporation) 's intimate apparel company named Vanity Fair Intimates for $350 million in cash on January 23, 2007. [17] (#cite_note-17) This company was renamed Vanity Fair Brands and is operated as a wholly owned subsidiary. [18] (#cite_note-18) In 2010, Rick Medlin was named president and CEO of Fruit of the Loom. Longtime CEO John Holland became the company's chairman. [19] (#cite_note-19) In 2014, the company closed its Jamestown, Kentucky (/wiki/Jamestown,_Kentucky) , plant, which had once been the second manufacturing plant in the state, and laid off all 600 employees. [20] (#cite_note-20) The company acknowledged it was moving the plant's operations to Honduras (/wiki/Honduras) to reduce production costs. [21] (#cite_note-21) In December 2016, Melissa Burgess Taylor was named chairman and CEO of Fruit of the Loom by Buffett after the death of Rick Medlin. [22] (#cite_note-22) Bibliography [ edit ] United States portal (/wiki/Portal:United_States) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Zagorin, Adam (November 1, 1999). "The fruit of its labor: How a company that exports jobs pushes for a Capitol Hill handout" (http://www.cnn.com/ALLPOLITICS/time/1999/10/25/farley.html) . CNN (/wiki/CNN) . Hamburg, Mark D.; Hoefken, Stephanie (April 30, 2002). "BERKSHIRE HATHAWAY COMPLETES ACQUISITION OF FRUIT OF THE LOOM" (http://www.berkshirehathaway.com/news/apr3002.html) , Berkshire Hathaway, Inc. (/wiki/Berkshire_Hathaway,_Inc.) "Buffett's Berkshire to buy Russell" (https://money.cnn.com/2006/04/17/news/companies/berkshire_russell/index.htm) . CNN. April 17, 2006. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-bloom_1-0) Company Overview of Fruit of the Loom, Inc. (https://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=3152467) on Bloomberg.com ^ Jump up to: a b History and more (http://www.fotlinc.com/pages/about-fruit-of-the-loom-inc.html#.XG6K26JKjIU) on FOTL website ^ (#cite_ref-3) 98% Brand Recognition (https://www.theadairgroup.com/blog/2019/02/11/the-history-of-fruit-of-the-loom-apparel/) The History of Fruit of the Loom Apparel ^ (#cite_ref-4) Kasprek, Alex (July 5, 2023). "Has the 'Fruit of the Loom' Logo Ever Contained a Cornucopia?" (https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/fruit-of-the-loom-cornucopia/) . Snopes.com . Retrieved July 6, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-wire_5-0) Acquisition of Russell Corporation Complete (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20060802005087/en/Acquisition-Russell-Corporation-Complete) on Business Wire ^ (#cite_ref-refbusiness_6-0) Russell Corporation history in "Reference for Business" website (http://www.referenceforbusiness.com/history2/48/Russell-Corporation.html) ^ (#cite_ref-FOTL_7-0) "Fruit of the Loom" (http://www.fotlinc.com/pages/fruit-of-the-loom-underwear-activewear-socks.html#.V1tK4TWiOYw) . fotlinc.com . Retrieved June 10, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Fastco_8-0) Rhodes, Margaret (March 24, 2014). "Why Fruit Of The Loom Is Designing More Than Just Undies" (http://www.fastcodesign.com/3028018/why-fruit-of-the-loom-is-designing-more-than-just-undies) . Fast Co Design . Retrieved June 10, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Psalm 127:3 . Retrieved 2018-08-29 . Lo, children are an heritage of the Lord : and the fruit of the womb is his reward. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : |website= ignored ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#periodical_ignored) ) ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Northwest Industries Inc." (http://www.encyclopedia.chicagohistory.org/pages/2796.html) . The Electronic Encyclopedia of Chicago . Chicago Historical Society (/wiki/Chicago_Historical_Society) . 2005 . Retrieved 2018-04-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Times, Special to the New York (1987-03-24). "COMPANY NEWS; Fruit of the Loom" (https://www.nytimes.com/1987/03/24/business/company-news-fruit-of-the-loom.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2023-01-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b Feder, Barnaby (31 October 1995). "Fruit of the Loom to Close Six U.S. Plants" (https://www.nytimes.com/1995/10/31/business/fruit-of-the-loom-to-close-six-us-plants.html) . The New York Times . p. D6 . Retrieved 2018-04-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-LATimes_13-0) "Fruit of the Loom Files for Chapter 11" (https://articles.latimes.com/1999/dec/30/business/fi-48844) . Los Angeles Times . December 30, 1999 . Retrieved June 10, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Fruit of the Loom votes to change its base" (https://www.irishtimes.com/business/fruit-of-the-loom-votes-to-change-its-base-1.216434) . The Irish Times . Retrieved 2023-12-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Buffett, Warren (/wiki/Warren_Buffett) (February 28, 2002). "Chairman's letter" (http://www.berkshirehathaway.com/2001ar/2001letter.html) . Berkshire Hathaway . Retrieved 2007-01-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-RussellPurchase_16-0) "Berkshire agrees to buy Russell for $598.3M in cash" (http://www.marketwatch.com/story/berkshire-agrees-to-buy-russell-for-5983-million-in-cash) . MarketWatch. April 17, 2006 . Retrieved June 10, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "VF Corp. sells intimate apparel unit to Fruit of the Loom" (https://archive.today/20120707191218/http://custom.marketwatch.com/custom/excite-com/news-story.asp?dateid=39105.3866062731-887467451) . MarketWatch. January 23, 2007. Archived from the original (http://custom.marketwatch.com/custom/excite-com/news-story.asp?dateid=39105.3866062731-887467451) on July 7, 2012 . Retrieved January 23, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Perceva offers to buy Berkshire Hathaway's lingerie brands" (https://www.ft.com/content/4ed72f78-1036-11e5-bd70-00144feabdc0) . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Maze, Brent (August 10, 2010). "New CEO to lead Fruit" (http://www.alexcityoutlook.com/2010/08/10/new-ceo-to-lead-fruit) . AlexCityOutlook.com . Retrieved May 31, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Estep, Bill (March 21, 2015). "Jobs gone, Fruit of the Loom's unpaid property tax bill remains in Russell County" (http://www.kentucky.com/news/local/education/shortchanging-our-schools/article44563605.html) . Lexington Herald Leader . Retrieved September 20, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Beam, Adam (April 3, 2014). "Fruit of the Loom to close U.S. plant, move jobs to Honduras" (https://www.stltoday.com/business/local/fruit-of-the-loom-to-close-u-s-plant-move/article_3aaf37c8-e72e-59fe-9625-0e35c07b4073.html) . St. Louis Post Dispatch. Associated Press . Retrieved September 20, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Fruit of The Loom News" (http://www.fotlinc.com/pages/news/12.02.16-warren-buffett-announces-new-ceo.html) . fotlinc.com . Retrieved 2018-03-13 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Fruit of the Loom (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fruit_of_the_Loom) . 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T. Smith Stadium (/wiki/Houchens_Industries%E2%80%93L._T._Smith_Stadium) Lost River Cave (/wiki/Lost_River_Cave) National Corvette Homecoming (/wiki/National_Corvette_Homecoming) National Corvette Museum (/wiki/National_Corvette_Museum) Riverview at Hobson Grove (/wiki/Riverview_at_Hobson_Grove) Industry Bowling Green Assembly Plant (/wiki/Bowling_Green_Assembly_Plant) Camping World (/wiki/Camping_World) Fruit of the Loom Holley Performance Products (/wiki/Holley_Performance_Products) Houchens Industries (/wiki/Houchens_Industries) Jr. Food Stores (/wiki/Jr._Food_Stores) Minit Mart Foods Inc. (/wiki/Minit_Mart_Foods_Inc.) Education Bowling Green Independent School District (/wiki/Bowling_Green_Independent_School_District) Bowling Green High School (/wiki/Bowling_Green_High_School_(Kentucky)) Warren County Public Schools (/wiki/Warren_County_Public_Schools_(Kentucky)) Greenwood High School (/wiki/Greenwood_High_School_(Kentucky)) Warren Central High School (/wiki/Warren_Central_High_School_(Kentucky)) GEO International High School (/wiki/GEO_International_High_School) Lighthouse Academy High School (/wiki/Lighthouse_Academy_High_School) Carol Martin Gatton Academy of Mathematics and Science in Kentucky (/wiki/Carol_Martin_Gatton_Academy_of_Mathematics_and_Science_in_Kentucky) Southcentral Kentucky Community and Technical College (/wiki/Southcentral_Kentucky_Community_and_Technical_College) Western Kentucky University (/wiki/Western_Kentucky_University) Sports Bowling Green Ballpark (/wiki/Bowling_Green_Ballpark) Bowling Green Hot Rods (/wiki/Bowling_Green_Hot_Rods) E.A. Diddle Arena (/wiki/E.A._Diddle_Arena) Nick Denes Field (/wiki/Nick_Denes_Field) WKU Hilltoppers and Lady Toppers (/wiki/Western_Kentucky_Hilltoppers_and_Lady_Toppers) Newspapers The Daily News (/wiki/The_Daily_News_(Kentucky)) Park City Daily News (/wiki/Park_City_Daily_News) Transportation GO bg Transit (/wiki/GO_bg_Transit) Topper Transit (/wiki/Topper_Transit) South Warren High School (/wiki/South_Warren_High_School) has a Bowling Green address but is south of the city limits. Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/152883932) National Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007375311405171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/nr94022998) Other Te Papa (New Zealand) (https://collections.tepapa.govt.nz/agent/46748) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐4hrdk Cached time: 20240720164503 Cache expiry: 976498 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.555 seconds Real time usage: 0.781 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 6230/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 131171/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 7332/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 21/100 Expensive parser function count: 13/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 106425/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.306/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7491432/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 646.586 1 -total 23.02% 148.846 1 Template:Reflist 15.99% 103.384 10 Template:Cite_web 15.47% 100.043 6 Template:Navbox 15.34% 99.184 1 Template:Infobox_company 13.80% 89.199 1 Template:Infobox 12.78% 82.639 1 Template:Berkshire_Hathaway 12.73% 82.329 1 Template:Authority_control 9.33% 60.312 1 Template:Short_description 5.93% 38.349 3 Template:Fix Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:888152-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720164503 and revision id 1230405310. 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Sportwear and kit Cricket equipment at Southwater CC, in Southwater, West Sussex, England Cricket clothing and equipment is regulated by the laws of cricket (/wiki/Cricket) . Cricket whites (/wiki/Cricket_whites) , sometimes called flannels, are loose-fitting clothes that are worn while playing cricket so as not to restrict the player's movement. Use of protective equipment, such as cricket helmets (/wiki/Cricket_helmet) , gloves and pads, is also regulated. Clothing and protective gear [ edit ] Fltr, clockwise: V-neck sweater (worn by South African Alviro Petersen); helmet, batting gloves, leg pads Collared shirt (white in tests and domestic; as per team kit in one-day formats) with short or long sleeves depending on the climate or personal preference. Long trousers ( white (/wiki/Cricket_whites) in tests and domestic and first class cricket; as per team colour kit in one day format (/wiki/One_Day_International) or T20 (/wiki/Twenty20) ). Jumper (a knitted pullover, if necessary). This may be long-sleeved or sleeveless. Sun hat (/wiki/Sun_hat) , cricket cap (/wiki/Cricket_cap) or baseball cap (/wiki/Baseball_cap) during hot summer times Spiked shoes to increase traction. Protective equipment Jockstrap (/wiki/Jockstrap) with a cup pocket into which a "box", or protective cup, is inserted and held in place. Abdominal guard (/wiki/Jockstrap#Protective_cup) or "box" for batsmen and wicket-keepers (often referred to as a cup or abdo guard ). It is usually constructed from high-density plastic with a padded edge, shaped like a hollow half-pear, and inserted into the jockstrap with the cup pocket underwear of the batsmen and wicket-keeper. This is used to protect the crotch area against impact from the ball. Helmet (/wiki/Cricket_helmet) (often with a visor), worn by batsmen and fielders (/wiki/Fielding_(cricket)) close to the batsman on strike to protect their heads. Leg pads (/wiki/Pads) , worn by the two batsmen and the wicket-keeper, used to protect the shin bone (/wiki/Shin_bone) against impact from the ball. The wicket-keeping pads are slightly different from the batsmen'. Fielders that are fielding close to the batsmen may wear shin guards under their trousers. Thigh guards, arm guards, chest guards, and elbow guards protect the body of the batsmen. Some batsmen use these and others do not, since they reduce mobility. Gloves (/wiki/Batting_gloves) for batsmen only, thickly padded above the fingers and on the thumb of the hand, to protect against impact from the ball. Wicket-keeper's gloves (/wiki/Wicket-keeper%27s_gloves) for the wicket-keeper (/wiki/Wicket-keeper) . Usually includes webbing between the thumb and index fingers. Batsmen are allowed to wear gloves while batting. The batsman can be also caught out (/wiki/Dismissal_(cricket)) if the ball touches the glove instead of the bat, provided the hand is in contact with the bat. This is because the glove is considered to be the extension of the bat. The batsmen may also wear protective helmets, usually with a visor, to protect themselves. Helmets are usually employed when facing fast bowlers (/wiki/Types_of_bowlers_in_cricket) . While playing spinners, they might not be used (though injuries are still possible [1] (#cite_note-1) ). Fieldsmen cannot use gloves to field the ball. If they wilfully use any part of their clothing to field the ball they may be penalised five penalty runs to the opposition. If the fielders are fielding close to the batsman, they are allowed to use helmets and leg guards worn under their clothing. [2] (#cite_note-2) As the wicket-keeper is positioned directly behind the batsman, and therefore has the ball bowled directly at them, they are the only fielder allowed to wear gloves and (external) leg guards. [3] (#cite_note-3) Cricket clothing is generally white in Test cricket (/wiki/Test_cricket) , as is traditional, but limited-overs cricket (/wiki/Limited-overs_cricket) players generally have clothing based on team colours, similar to other sports. Equipment [ edit ] Fltr, clockwise: Cricket ball, bat, boundary (picket fence), sightscreen Ball (/wiki/Cricket_ball) – A red, white or pink ball with a cork (/wiki/Cork_(material)) base, wrapped in twine (/wiki/Twine) covered with leather. The ball should have a circumference of 9.1 in (23 centimetres) unless it is a children's size. Bat (/wiki/Cricket_bat) – A wooden bat is used. The wood used is from the Kashmir (/wiki/Kashmir) or English willow (/wiki/Willow) tree. The bat cannot be more than 38 inches (96.5 cm) long and 4.25 inches (10.8 cm) wide. Aluminium bats are not allowed. The bat has a long handle and one side has a smooth face. Stumps (/wiki/Stump_(cricket)) – three upright wooden poles that, together with the bails, form the wicket (/wiki/Wicket) . Bails (/wiki/Bail_(cricket)) – two crosspieces made of wood, placed on top of the stumps. Sight screen (/wiki/Sight_screen) – A screen placed at the boundary known as the sight screen . This is aligned exactly parallel to the width of the pitch and behind both pairs of wickets. See also [ edit ] Cricket portal (/wiki/Portal:Cricket) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Street cricket (/wiki/Street_cricket) Sports uniform (/wiki/Uniform#Sports) References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Cricket equipment (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Cricket_equipment) . ^ (#cite_ref-1) "India's Taniya Bhatia suffers concussion during Women's T20 World Cup final" (https://www.newindianexpress.com/sport/womens-t20-world-cup/2020/mar/08/indias-taniya-bhatia-suffers-concussion-durinmg-womens-t20-world-cup-final-2114080.html) . The New Indian Express . Retrieved 31 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Appendix D (http://www.lords.org/mcc/laws-of-cricket/laws/appendix-d/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20131203141102/http://www.lords.org/mcc/laws-of-cricket/laws/appendix-d/) 3 December 2013 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Laws of Cricket (/wiki/Laws_of_Cricket) . Retrieved 23 November 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Law 40 (The wicket-keeper) (http://www.lords.org/mcc/laws-of-cricket/laws/law-40-the-wicket-keeper/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150807062244/http://www.lords.org/mcc/laws-of-cricket/laws/law-40-the-wicket-keeper/) 7 August 2015 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Laws of Cricket (/wiki/Laws_of_Cricket) . Retrieved 23 November 2013. v t e Cricket clothing and equipment Equipment Bat (/wiki/Cricket_bat) Ball (/wiki/Cricket_ball) Stump (/wiki/Stump_(cricket)) Bails (/wiki/Bail_(cricket)) Clothing Pads (/wiki/Pads) Helmet (/wiki/Cricket_helmet) Cap (/wiki/Cricket_cap) Whites (/wiki/Cricket_whites) Wicket-keeper's gloves (/wiki/Wicket-keeper%27s_gloves) Others Baggy green (/wiki/Baggy_green) Bowling machine (/wiki/Bowling_machine) Cricket nets (/wiki/Cricket_nets) Hawk-Eye (/wiki/Hawk-Eye) Hot Spot (/wiki/Hot_Spot_(cricket)) Snickometer (/wiki/Snickometer) Stump microphone (/wiki/Stump_microphone) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐d655v Cached time: 20240720163630 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.336 seconds Real time usage: 0.455 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 862/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 20162/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1063/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 13/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 18828/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.224/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5828176/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 400.436 1 -total 25.62% 102.580 1 Template:Reflist 20.98% 84.021 1 Template:Cricket_equipment 20.53% 82.217 1 Template:Navbox 19.92% 79.761 1 Template:Cite_web 15.50% 62.057 1 Template:Short_description 13.08% 52.381 1 Template:Commons_category 12.63% 50.569 1 Template:Sister_project 12.23% 48.990 1 Template:Side_box 9.44% 37.790 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:896006-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720163630 and revision id 1231268382. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cricket_clothing_and_equipment&oldid=1231268382 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cricket_clothing_and_equipment&oldid=1231268382) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Cricket equipment (/wiki/Category:Cricket_equipment) Sportswear (/wiki/Category:Sportswear) Cricket (/wiki/Category:Cricket) Hidden categories: Webarchive template wayback links (/wiki/Category:Webarchive_template_wayback_links) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) EngvarB from August 2013 (/wiki/Category:EngvarB_from_August_2013) Use dmy dates from June 2024 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_June_2024) Pages using multiple image with auto scaled images (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_multiple_image_with_auto_scaled_images) Commons category link is locally defined (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_is_locally_defined) |
Fashion industry event For the Death Grips album, see Fashion Week (album) (/wiki/Fashion_Week_(album)) . Karmen Pedaru (/wiki/Karmen_Pedaru) modeling for Michael Kors (/wiki/Michael_Kors) , Spring/Summer New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , 2013 A fashion week is a week-long fashion (/wiki/Fashion) industry event where fashion designers (/wiki/Fashion_designer) , brands, or "houses" display their latest collections in runway fashion shows (/wiki/Fashion_show) to buyers and the media which influences upcoming fashion trends for the current and approaching seasons. [1] (#cite_note-:112-1) [2] (#cite_note-:14-2) The most prominent fashion weeks are held in the fashion capitals (/wiki/Fashion_capital) of the world—in chronological order, New York City (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , London (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) , Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) , and Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) , or the " Big Four ". [3] (#cite_note-:72-3) The foundations of fashion week began in Paris in the late 1800s before spreading to New York, Milan, and London in the 20th century. What began as marketing garments in public spaces like racetracks grew into highly publicized events in themselves. [4] (#cite_note-:82-4) [5] (#cite_note-:52-5) In the 2000s, themes of sustainability began emerging at fashion weeks and grew popular across the next decade. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) Fashion weeks in recent years have reflected a faster "retail cycle" with "see now, buy-now" and "in-season" fashion shows. [7] (#cite_note-:92-7) [8] (#cite_note-:102-8) Event organizers have proposed combining the collections for one season or men and women's wear shows to reduce the carbon emissions associated with these events. [9] (#cite_note-:43-9) History [ edit ] One of history's first signs of a fashion week, or seasonal collection, can be traced back to fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth (/wiki/Charles_Frederick_Worth) during the late 1800s. The concept of the fashion week began in Paris, when marketers used to hire women to wear couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) items in public places, from racetracks (/wiki/Racetrack) to beauty salons (/wiki/Beauty_salon) . [4] (#cite_note-:82-4) These parades gradually became social events of their own. In France, runway shows are still called "défilés de mode" which when translated literally means "fashion shows" or "fashion parades." A style show is an occasion placed on by a style planner to exhibit their forthcoming line of dress as well as embellishments during Fashion Week. Style shows debut each season, especially the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter seasons. [5] (#cite_note-:52-5) The first Paris Fashion Week was due to the work of designer Paul Poiret. Poiret was known as the King of Fashion and led the fashion world in the first decade of the 20th century. He wished to present his designs on live mobile bodies. Poiret decided that to make this idea a reality he would combine socializing and shopping by throwing multiple galas featuring his pieces. Guests were asked to dress in their best clothing to align with his lavish designs. As the shows continued they became less of a large affair and the invitations became more individualized. Fashion houses began to dress models in their collections in front of client-only guests. Unlike modern-day fashion shows photographers were prohibited due to tensions regarding copied designs. The formation of the Fédération Française de la Couture marked the first official Paris Fashion Week in 1973. The show opened with the tension-building Battle of Versailles Fashion Show (/wiki/The_Battle_of_Versailles_Fashion_Show) that displayed the famed battle between Paris and New York Fashion. The battle was set between five of the top French designers and five American designers with no famous backing. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 1903, a Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) shop called Ehrich Brothers put on what is thought to have been the country's first fashion show to lure middle-class women into the store. [5] (#cite_note-:52-5) By 1910, many big department stores (/wiki/Department_store) were holding shows of their own. It is likely that American retailers saw the "fashion parades" in couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) salons and decided to use the idea. These "parades" effectively promoted stores and improved their status. By the 1920s, the fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) had been used by retailers across the country. They were staged, and often held in the shop's restaurant during lunch or teatime. These shows were usually more theatrical than those of today, heavily based upon a single theme, and accompanied with a narrative commentary. On July 19 in 1943, the first-ever "fashion week," New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , was held to give fashion buyers alternatives to French fashion (/wiki/French_fashion) during World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , when workers in the fashion industry were unable to travel to Paris. Fashion shows were hugely popular, enticing crowds in their thousands – crowds so large, that stores in New York in the 1950s had to obtain a license to have live models (/wiki/Model_(person)) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Until 1994, shows were held in different locations, such as hotels, or lofts. From 1994 to 2009, the event was held in a tent at Bryant Park (/wiki/Bryant_Park) , behind the New York Public Library (/wiki/New_York_Public_Library_Main_Branch) . Lincoln Center (/wiki/Lincoln_Center_for_the_Performing_Arts) was the Fashion Week venue from 2010 to 2015, [12] (#cite_note-12) after which it moved to Clarkson Square, an events venue in SoHo (/wiki/SoHo,_Manhattan) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Sustainability [ edit ] Before mainstream fashion events like fashion week began incorporating sustainable fashion, brands like Patagonia (/wiki/Patagonia,_Inc.) practiced sustainability by designing garments out of recycled materials. The Copenhagen Fashion Summit was then established in 2009 to discuss social and environmental issues facing the fashion industry. Designers were called on to cut their total number of collections per year in exchange for more durable garments which extended lifespan and minimized waste. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) Similarly, buyers were encouraged to purchase fewer longer lasting pieces. These informal initiatives stimulate a circular economy (/wiki/Circular_economy) . [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2014, the Connect4Climate (/wiki/Connect4Climate) trust fund (owned by the World Bank Group (/wiki/World_Bank_Group) )financed the “Sustainability Dialogues in the Design Industry” initiative at Milan Fashion Week to create opportunities for pioneering young designers. At London Fashion Week in 2017, Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) and the Mayor of London (/wiki/Mayor_of_London) created the "Fashion Switch" initiative to support UK brands transitioning to renewable energy. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) In Asia, mindful fashion and conscious designer labels were promoted at Lakme Fashion Week (/wiki/Lakm%C3%A9_Fashion_Week) 2018. [2] (#cite_note-:14-2) Connect4Climate also launched “X-Ray Fashion,” a virtual reality experience exploring the relationship between climate change and the fashion industry. In the next year, brands like H&M (/wiki/H%26M) , Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) , and Zara (/wiki/Zara_(retailer)) followed in Patagonia’s footsteps and started producing garments with sustainably sourced materials. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) In 2019, initiatives like the “Fashion Pact” and “Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action” articulated goals for the fashion industry around green energy (/wiki/Sustainable_energy) , material use, and supply chain modernization to reduce carbon emissions. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) At London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) promoted upcycling (/wiki/Upcycling) and remanufacturing (/wiki/Remanufacturing) by featuring new sustainable brands in designer showrooms. [2] (#cite_note-:14-2) Influential brands like Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) and Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) showcased sustainable design in the Spring and Summer 2020 collections as well. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) The same year, Gabriella Hearst (/wiki/Gabriela_Hearst) organized New York Fashion Week’s first carbon neutral (/wiki/Carbon_neutral) fashion show. She offset emissions, booked models already in the area, and hired caterers who used local ingredients. [15] (#cite_note-:22-15) In May, designer Richard Marlone (/wiki/Richard_Malone_(designer)) won the 2020 International Woolmark Prize for his radical ideas in sustainable development. Lakme Fashion Week also launched the Circular Design Challenge, the first sustainable fashion award in India. [2] (#cite_note-:14-2) Since 2021, advocacy groups have both attended and disrupted London Fashion Week and other major shows while calling for environmental and labor protections in the fashion industry. [6] (#cite_note-:03-6) [16] (#cite_note-16) Organizers of Copenhagen Fashion Week (/wiki/Copenhagen_Fashion_Week) 2023 set 18 minimum standards for the brands participating, an unprecedented decision. For example, seat cards and set pieces had to be recyclable, fur on garments was banned, and designs had to be 50% recycled material. Implementation of these rules was left up to the interpretation of designers, resulting in some variation due to the phrasing. Fashion week executives framed the standards as a transitional step to fully sustainable collections. [17] (#cite_note-:32-17) About [ edit ] Main article: List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Amanda Bynes (/wiki/Amanda_Bynes) at New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , 2009 Although there are many notable fashion weeks around the world, only four are known as the "Big Four": in chronological order, New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , London (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) , Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) , and Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) . [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) [3] (#cite_note-:72-3) Paris began holding couture shows in 1945, [20] (#cite_note-:62-20) Milan Fashion Week was founded by the Italian Chamber of Commerce (/wiki/Chamber_of_commerce) in 1958, [21] (#cite_note-21) Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) was further organized in 1973 under the French Fashion Federation, [22] (#cite_note-22) and London Fashion Week (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) was founded by the British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) in 1984. [23] (#cite_note-23) Although these key organizations still organize the main shows, there are independent events and producers in all cities, as well. [1] (#cite_note-:112-1) Other notable fashion weeks are held in Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen_Fashion_Week) , Berlin (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) , Madrid (/wiki/Madrid_Fashion_Week) , São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo_Fashion_Week) , Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai_Fashion_Week) , and Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo_Fashion_Week) . [17] (#cite_note-:32-17) [24] (#cite_note-24) Timing [ edit ] The "Big Four" refers to fashion weeks which happens twice a year in the major fashion capitals of the world; New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) (February 7–15), London (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) (February 15–19), Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) (February 19–25), and Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) (February 25-March 5). [25] (#cite_note-25) Traditionally, fashion weeks were held several months in advance of the season to allow the press and buyers a chance to preview fashion designs for the following season. In February and March, designers showcased their autumn and winter collections. In September and October, designers showcased their spring and summer collections. This timing was largely created to follow the then slower "retail cycle." In other words, it allowed time for retailers to purchase and incorporate the designers into their retail marketing. However, as customer expectations have increased, the retail cycle has increased. As a result, in 2016, designers started moving to "in-season shows." [8] (#cite_note-:102-8) See now, buy now [ edit ] In recent years, shows have begun to feature garments that are available for sale immediately, online or in stores. [26] (#cite_note-26) The other move has been to "see now, buy now" shows, often featuring clickable video, where looks are available online immediately following, or even during the show. [7] (#cite_note-:92-7) "See now, buy now" experiences have included shows from Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) , Nicole Miller (/wiki/Nicole_Miller) , Moschino (/wiki/Moschino) and Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger) . In the 2019 Tommy x Zendaya show, Hilfiger commented on the innovation of the "see now, buy now" concept. [27] (#cite_note-27) However, the French Federation of Fashion (/wiki/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_fran%C3%A7aise_de_la_couture) has not accepted the call to incorporate it as of 2017. [28] (#cite_note-28) The advent of "see now, buy now" shopping has also come about in response to so-called "fast fashion" retailers, who copy designs from the runway and bring them to retail faster than traditional design houses. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) Environmental costs [ edit ] Male and female models (/wiki/Model_(person)) on runway (/wiki/Runway_(fashion)) at a fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) in Washington, D.C. (/wiki/Washington,_D.C.) , February 2017 Since fashion weeks were established, approximately 241,000 tons of CO2 have been released each year from attending the "Big Four" and major trade shows. Buyers and sellers generate emissions (/wiki/Greenhouse_gas_emissions) and waste from air travel, accommodations, ground transportation, and fashion shows. 37% of total CO2 emissions are attributed to New York Fashion Week. The carbon footprint (/wiki/Carbon_footprint) of the average global citizen is a fraction of the average professional buyer's from traveling approximately 19,213 km every year. On flights in business class (/wiki/Business_class) , they generate up to 30% more CO2 emissions per person if the ratio of business seats to economy (/wiki/Economy_class) seats in each plane is taken into consideration. [31] (#cite_note-31) [9] (#cite_note-:43-9) It is unrealistic for event organizers to ask guests to fly in economy class, take trains, or share accommodation, but paper invitations and plastic water bottles at events have become obsolete. Organizers for fashion week and other major events have also proposed combining all the collections for one season, displaying men and women’s wear at the same event, and establishing fashion “districts” in fashion capitals like New York to minimize traffic congestion (/wiki/Traffic_congestion) during fashion week. [9] (#cite_note-:43-9) Practicing sustainability at fashion week encourages sustainable development in the fashion industry because it reflects and influences major trends and market demand. [2] (#cite_note-:14-2) See also [ edit ] List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) Runway (fashion) (/wiki/Runway_(fashion)) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) Haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) Ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "The Long and Winding History of Fashion Week | New York Fashion Week" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160425052103/http://newyorkfashionweeklive.com/the-long-and-winding-history-of-fashion-week) . New York Fashion Week . 2015-09-23. Archived from the original (http://newyorkfashionweeklive.com/the-long-and-winding-history-of-fashion-week) on 2016-04-25 . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Verma, Aditi; Ragini, Beri. "Green is the New Black: A Dissection of Sustainable Fashion" (https://ijpsl.in/index.php/volume-1-issue-3/) . International Journal of Policy Sciences and Law . 1 (3): 1138 . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ Jump up to: a b Emling, Shelley (3 October 2006). "Big 4 fashion weeks get new company - Style - International Herald Tribune - The New York Times" (https://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/03/style/03iht-Rweeks.3015966.html?_r=0) . The New York Times . Retrieved 2016-04-07 . ^ Jump up to: a b Idacavage, Sara (2016-09-19). "Fashion History Lesson: The Evolution of Runway Shows" (http://fashionista.com/2016/09/fashion-week-history) . Fashionista . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Leach, William R. "Transformations in a Culture of Consumption: Women and Department Stores, 1890-1925" (https://www.jstor.org/stable/1901758) . The Journal of American History . Vol. 71, No. 2 (Sep., 1984), pp. 319-342. Accessed August 14, 2011. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Boykoff, M; Chandler, P; Church, P; Osnes, B (2021). "Examining climate change and sustainable/fast fashion in the 21st century: 'trash the runway.' (https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfclm/kgab003) " (https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfclm/kgab003) . Oxford Open Climate Change . 1 (1). doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1093/oxfclm/kgab003 (https://doi.org/10.1093%2Foxfclm%2Fkgab003) . Retrieved 2024-02-04 – via Oxford Academic. ^ Jump up to: a b Clinton, Leah (2016-09-15). "8 Collections You Can Shop Straight From the Runway" (http://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a39217/see-now-buy-now-fashion-week/) . ELLE . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b Bobila, Maria (2016-04-16). "The CFDA Released a Guidebook for Designers Transitioning to In-Season Shows" (http://fashionista.com/2016/04/cfda-in-season-guidebook) . Fashionista . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Paton, Elizabeth (2020-02-12). "Figuring Out Fashion Week's Carbon Problem" (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/02/12/fashion/figuring-out-fashion-weeks-carbon-problem.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Nast, Condé (2019-09-23). "A Brief History Of Paris Fashion Week" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/article/history-of-paris-fashion-week) . British Vogue . Retrieved 2024-04-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Amanda Fortini, "How the Runway Took Off. A brief history of the fashion show." Feb. 8, 2006 (http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/fashion/2006/02/how_the_runway_took_off.html) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Lockwood, Lisa (2015-04-13). "New York Fashion Week Leaves Lincoln Center" (http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/new-york-fashion-week-lincoln-center-10108237) . WWD . Retrieved 2017-11-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Hudson Yards is in talks to host New York Fashion Week" (https://nypost.com/2017/09/12/hudson-yards-is-in-talks-to-host-new-york-fashion-week/) . New York Post . 2017-09-12 . Retrieved 2017-11-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Stahel, Walter R. (2016-03-24). "The circular economy" (https://www.nature.com/articles/531435a) . Nature . 531 (7595): 435–438. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 2016Natur.531..435S (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2016Natur.531..435S) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1038/531435a (https://doi.org/10.1038%2F531435a) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1476-4687 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1476-4687) . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-:22_15-0) "Gabriela Hearst's Spring 2020 Show To Be Carbon Neutral—An Industry First" (https://www.vogue.com/article/gabriela-hearst-carbon-neutral-fashion-show) . Vogue . 2019-09-05 . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Climate Change Protests Disrupt London Fashion Week" (https://www.vogue.com/article/london-fashion-week-climate-change-protests-extinction-rebellion-photos) . Vogue . 2019-02-18 . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ Jump up to: a b Lesavage, H (2023-02-03). "Fashion week is unsustainable. Can Copenhagen change it?" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/a42725558/copenhagen-fashion-week-sustainability-requirements/) . Harper's Bazaar . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "The Long and Winding History of Fashion Week | New York Fashion Week" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160425052103/http://newyorkfashionweeklive.com/the-long-and-winding-history-of-fashion-week) . New York Fashion Week . Archived from the original (http://newyorkfashionweeklive.com/the-long-and-winding-history-of-fashion-week) on 2016-04-25 . Retrieved 2016-04-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Ward, Maria (September 2015). "Introducing the New Vogue Runway App: Your Digital Front Row Seat to Fashion Week" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160418095354/http://www.vogue.com/13322973/vogue-runway-app-fashion-shows-iphone-ipad-new-york-london-milan-paris/) . Vogue . Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/13322973/vogue-runway-app-fashion-shows-iphone-ipad-new-york-london-milan-paris/) on 2016-04-18 . Retrieved 2016-04-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-:62_20-0) "The history of haute couture" (http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/fashion/fashion-news/the-history-of-haute-couture) . Harper's BAZAAR . 2017-01-19 . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Davies, Lizzy (2013-11-21). "Armani throws his weight behind efforts to revive Milan fashion week" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/nov/21/giorgio-armani-revival-milan-fashion-week) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Paris Fashion Week's Best Moments: Revisit 14 Iconic Catwalk Shows" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160327135553/http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/547376/paris-fashion-week-best-ever-moments-archive.html) . Marie Claire . 2016-10-10. Archived from the original (http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/547376/paris-fashion-week-best-ever-moments-archive.html) on 2016-03-27 . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "25 years of London Fashion Week - Telegraph" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG6194975/25-years-of-London-Fashion-Week.html) . The Telegraph . 8 September 2015 . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Hart, Anna (June 2017). "Which is the world's most stylish city?" (https://amp.theguardian.com/cities/2016/jun/01/which-is-the-worlds-most-stylish-city-fashion) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved 2024-02-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Important Fashion Week Dates" (https://fashionweekonline.com/fashion-week-dates) . Fashion Week Online . Retrieved 24 March 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Tom Ford Shifts Show to Match Retail Cycle" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/tom-ford-shifts-show-to-match-retail-cycle) . The Business of Fashion . 2016-02-05 . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Mackelden, Amy (2 March 2019). "Tommy x Zendaya Hits Paris Fashion Week and It's Bringing Back the Days of Disco" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a26602636/tommy-hilfiger-x-zendaya-paris-fashion-week-launch/) . Harpers Bazaar . Retrieved 26 March 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "French Fashion Execs Vote Against 'See Now, Buy Now' Schedule" (http://fashionista.com/2016/02/see-now-buy-now-paris) . Fashionista . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Fashion Week Trends Fast Fashion 2016" (https://www.refinery29.com/2016/02/103452/trends-fast-fashion-2016) . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Fashion History Lesson: The Origins of Fast Fashion" (http://fashionista.com/2016/06/what-is-fast-fashion) . Fashionista . Retrieved 2017-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Falk, Martin; Hagsten, Eva (2021). "Determinants of CO2 emissions generated by air travel vary across reasons for the trip" (https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-020-12219-4) . Environmental Science and Pollution Research . 28 (18): 22969–22980. Bibcode (/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)) : 2021ESPR...2822969F (https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2021ESPR...2822969F) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1007/s11356-020-12219-4 (https://doi.org/10.1007%2Fs11356-020-12219-4) . hdl (/wiki/Hdl_(identifier)) : 11250/2976916 (https://hdl.handle.net/11250%2F2976916) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 33438122 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33438122) . Retrieved 2024-02-04 – via Springer Link. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Fashion weeks (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fashion_weeks) . 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Type of footwear with an open upper "Sandals" redirects here. For the Caribbean luxury resorts operator, see Sandals Resorts (/wiki/Sandals_Resorts) . For the holy relic at Prüm Abbey, see Sandals of Jesus Christ (/wiki/Sandals_of_Jesus_Christ) . For other uses, see Sandal (disambiguation) (/wiki/Sandal_(disambiguation)) . Man wearing sandals Modern fashion sandals Sandals are an open type of shoe, consisting of a sole (/wiki/Sole_(shoe)) held to the wearer's foot (/wiki/Foot) by straps going over the instep (/wiki/Instep) and around the ankle (/wiki/Ankle) . Sandals can also have a heel. While the distinction between sandals and other types of footwear can sometimes be blurry (as in the case of huaraches (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) —the woven leather footwear seen in Mexico, and peep-toe pumps), the common understanding is that a sandal leaves all or most of the foot exposed. People may choose to wear sandals for several reasons, among them comfort in warm weather, economy (sandals tend to require less material than shoes and are usually easier to construct), and as a fashion (/wiki/Fashion) choice. Usually, people wear sandals in warmer climates or during warmer parts of the year in order to keep their feet cool and dry. The risk of developing athlete's foot (/wiki/Athlete%27s_foot) is lower than with enclosed shoes (/wiki/Shoe) , and the wearing of sandals may be part of the treatment (/wiki/Therapy) regimen for such an infection. Name [ edit ] The English (/wiki/English_language) word sandal (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/sandal) derives under influence from Middle French (/wiki/Middle_French) sandale (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/sandale) from the Latin (/wiki/Latin_language) sandalium (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/sandalium) and is first attested in Middle English (/wiki/Middle_English) in the form sandalies . [1] (#cite_note-oed-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) The Latin term derived from Greek (/wiki/Ancient_Greek_language) sandálion ( σανδάλιον (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%CF%83%CE%B1%CE%BD%CE%B4%CE%AC%CE%BB%CE%B9%CE%BF%CE%BD) ), the diminutive (/wiki/Diminutive_(linguistics)) of sándalon ( σάνδαλον (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%CF%83%CE%AC%CE%BD%CE%B4%CE%B1%CE%BB%CE%BF%CE%BD) ), of uncertain origin. [1] (#cite_note-oed-1) In Greek, the names referred to particular styles of women's sandals rather than being the general word for the category of footwear. Similarly, in Latin, the name was also used for slippers (/wiki/Slippers) , the more common term for Roman (/wiki/Ancient_Rome) sandals being solea (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/solea) , whence English sole (/wiki/Sole_(shoe)) . The English words sand (/wiki/Sand) and sandalwood (/wiki/Sandalwood) are both false cognates (/wiki/False_cognate) . History [ edit ] Esparto (/wiki/Esparto) sandals from the 6th (/wiki/6th_millennium_BC) or 5th millennium BC (/wiki/5th_millennium_BC) found in Spain (/wiki/Spain) . Pair of ancient leather sandals from Egypt. Girl wearing sandals held to the feet by both thong and straps. Although some other kinds of footwear (/wiki/Footwear) like carbatina (/wiki/Carbatina) are as simple to make, sandals are the oldest known footwear (/wiki/History_of_footwear) at present. Pairs of sagebrush (/wiki/Artemisia_tridentata) sandals discovered in 1938 at Fort Rock (/wiki/Fort_Rock) Cave (/wiki/Fort_Rock_Cave) in Oregon (/wiki/Oregon) , USA (/wiki/USA) , were later dated (/wiki/Radiocarbon_dating) to 10,500 to 9,300 years ago (/wiki/Before_Present) . [3] (#cite_note-robbins-3) The ancient Egyptians (/wiki/Ancient_Egyptians) wore sandals made of palm (/wiki/Palm_tree) leaves, papyrus (/wiki/Papyrus) , [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWilkinson1847336-4) and—at least in grave goods (/wiki/Grave_goods) —gold. Egyptian statues and reliefs show sandals both on the feet and carried by sandal-bearers (/wiki/Sandal-bearer) . According to Herodotus (/wiki/Herodotus) , papyrus footwear was part of the required dress of the Egyptian priests (/wiki/Ancient_Egyptian_religion) . [5] (#cite_note-5) The sandals of Mesopotamia (/wiki/Mesopotamia) (" Biblical sandals (/wiki/Biblical_sandals) ") were typically made of rawhide (/wiki/Rawhide_(material)) and straw (/wiki/Straw_(agricultural_product)) (dried grasses). The wealthy sometimes used gems or gold or silver beads on the thongs. Straw shoes, sometimes in the form of sandals and sometimes carbatinae, were ubiquitous Chinese footwear (/wiki/Hanfu_footwear) in antiquity. In Ancient Greece (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) , sandalia proper were a kind of sandal principally worn by women. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPeck1898-6) The sole (/wiki/Sole_(shoe)) was made of wood, cork, or leather and the upper chiefly consisted of a strap between the big toe and second toe and another around the ankle. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPeck1898-6) The sandal of Homer (/wiki/Homer) was the pédila ( πέδιλα ). [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) By the Classical Period (/wiki/Classical_Greece) , the general term for sandals was hypódēma ( ὑπόδημα ). [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) Most forms included a strap across the toes ( ζυγὸς , zygòs ), another strap between the big and second toe, and a third across the instep (/wiki/Instep) ( lingula ); this last was frequently made with metal shaped like a heart or leaf. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) The rhaḯdia ( ῥαΐδια ) extended the straps of the sandal up the calf. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) Some Greek sandals—like the women's tyrrēniká ( τυρρηνικά )—employed wooden soles. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) The effeminate baxea (/wiki/Baxea) ( πάξεια (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%CF%80%CE%AC%CE%BE%CE%B5%CE%B9%CE%B1) , páxeia ) was usually made of willow (/wiki/Willow) leaves, twigs, or fibers and was associated with comic actors (/wiki/Ancient_Greek_comedy) and philosophers (/wiki/Greek_philosophy) . [9] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEYates_&_al.1870-9) The tragedians (/wiki/Ancient_Greek_tragedy) wore the cothurnus (/wiki/Cothurnus) ( κόθορνος (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%CE%BA%CF%8C%CE%B8%CE%BF%CF%81%CE%BD%CE%BF%CF%82) , kóthornos ), sandal-like boots (/wiki/Boot) that rose above the midcalf and typically incorporated platform soles (/wiki/Platform_shoe) that led to others wearing them to appear taller. [10] (#cite_note-10) By the Hellenistic Period (/wiki/Hellenistic_Period) , some sandals show evidence of extreme ornamentation. One found from the settlements in Greek Crimea (/wiki/Greek_Crimea) was a platform (/wiki/Platform_shoe) design with 12 separate layers in its sole and gold decoration. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) Because of the general discomfort of the typical upper-class (/wiki/Class_in_ancient_Rome) calceus (/wiki/Calceus) , it was standard in ancient Rome (/wiki/Ancient_Rome) to switch to sandals ( solea (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/solea) or crepida (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/crepida) ) or slippers (/wiki/Soccus) at home and it was considered an oddity of Augustus (/wiki/Augustus) that he seldom did so. However, wearing comfortable shoes in public was considered effeminate and discussion of the habit was used as an insult by politicians and writers. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) Scipio the Elder (/wiki/Scipio_the_Elder) , Verres (/wiki/Verres) , Antony (/wiki/Mark_Antony) , Germanicus (/wiki/Germanicus) , and Caligula (/wiki/Caligula) were all pointedly reproached for doing so and the stigma did not die off until at least the reign of Hadrian (/wiki/Hadrian) . [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) Because shoes were removed when reclining on couches to dine, it was normal to wear slippers or sandals to meals even at other houses. Because of the stigma, however, when a litter (/wiki/Litter_(vehicle)) carried by slaves (/wiki/Slavery_in_ancient_Rome) could not be used between the two houses, it was considered proper to walk to the other house in calcei (/wiki/Calcei) while carrying the shoes to be removed under the arm. The guest would change in the entryway and then have slaves remove the second pair of shoes in the dining room. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEAnderson1870-8) In his autobiography Edward Carpenter (/wiki/Edward_Carpenter) told how sandals came to be made in England: While in India Harold Cox (/wiki/Harold_Cox) went in [18]85 or [18]86 for a tour in Cashmere (/wiki/Kashmir) , and from Cashmere he sent me a pair of Indian sandals. I had asked him, before he went out, to send some likely pattern of sandals, as I felt anxious to try some myself. I soon found the joy of wearing them. And after a little time I set about making them. I got two or three lessons from W. Lill, a bootmaker friend in Sheffield (/wiki/Sheffield) , and soon succeeded in making a good many pairs for myself and various friends. Since then the trade has grown into quite a substantial one. G. Adams took it up at Millthorpe (/wiki/Millthorpe,_Derbyshire) in 1889; making, I suppose, about a hundred or more pairs a year; and since his death it has been carried on at the Garden City, Letchworth (/wiki/Letchworth) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Construction [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Sandal) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( August 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Anatomy of a sandal A sandal may have a sole (/wiki/Sole_(shoe)) made from rubber (/wiki/Rubber) , leather (/wiki/Leather) , wood (/wiki/Wood) , tatami (/wiki/Tatami) or rope (/wiki/Rope) . It may be held to the foot by a narrow thong that generally passes between the first and second toe, or by a strap or lace, variously called a latchet, sabot strap or sandal, that passes over the arch of the foot or around the ankle. A sandal may or may not have a heel (/wiki/Heel_(shoe)) (either low or high (/wiki/High-heeled_footwear) ) or heel strap. Variants [ edit ] Barefoot (/wiki/Barefoot) sandals, footwear with the appearance of sandals but lacking a sole. Caligae (/wiki/Caligae) , a heavy-soled classical Roman military shoe or sandal for marching, worn by all ranks up to and including centurion (/wiki/Centurion) Carbatina (/wiki/Carbatina) , open footwear worn in ancient Greece, Italy and the Middle East Clog (/wiki/Clog_(shoe)) can be formed as a heavy sandal, having a thick, typically wooden sole. Crochet sandals [12] (#cite_note-12) Fisherman sandal (/w/index.php?title=Fisherman_sandal&action=edit&redlink=1) is a type of T-bar sandal originally for men and boys. The toes are enclosed by a number of leather bands interwoven with the central length-wise strap that lies along the instep. An adjustable cross strap or bar is fastened with a buckle. The heel may be fully enclosed or secured by a single strap joined to the cross strap. The style appears to have originated in France. Flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) (called thongs in Australia) are typically cheap and suitable for beach, pool, or locker room wear Clip-on sandals (/w/index.php?title=Clip-on_sandals&action=edit&redlink=1) or clip-toe sandals (/w/index.php?title=Clip-toe_sandals&action=edit&redlink=1) , similar to flip-flops Geta (/wiki/Geta_(footwear)) , a classical Japanese form of elevated thong, traditionally of cryptomeria (/wiki/Cryptomeria) wood; the crosspiece is referred to as a ha , which translates to tooth Grecian sandal (/w/index.php?title=Grecian_sandal&action=edit&redlink=1) , sandals from Greece (/wiki/Greece) and Salento (/wiki/Salento) (Italy), a (generally flat or low) sole attached to the foot by interlaced straps crossing the toes and instep, and fastening around the ankle. A similar style is sometimes called gladiator sandal (/wiki/Gladiator_sandal) High-heeled sandal (/wiki/High-heeled_footwear) , a type of sandal with an elevated heel. They allow the wearer to have an open shoe while being less casual or more formal, depending on the style of the sandal. Hiking (/wiki/Hiking) and trekking (/wiki/Trekking) sandals are designed for hiking or trekking in hot and tropical climates, usually using robust rubber outsole, suitable for any terrain, and softer EVA (/wiki/Ethylene-vinyl_acetate) or Super EVA foam insole. These sandals are usually shaped to support the arched contour of the foot. The straps are usually made of polyester or nylon webbing for quick drying after exposure to water and to minimize perspiration. [13] (#cite_note-13) Also suitable for many other adventure sports and activities where quick drying and reduced perspiration is required, including rafting, traveling, paragliding, skydiving. Ho Chi Minh sandals (/wiki/Ho_Chi_Minh_sandal) is one name for a homemade or cottage industry (/wiki/Cottage_industry) footwear, the soles cut from an old automobile tire and the straps cut from an inner tube. Made and worn in many countries, they became wider known in the US as worn by the rural people of Indochina during the Vietnam War (/wiki/Vietnam_War) , leading to the name. Huarache (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) , a Mexican sandal, [14] (#cite_note-14) with sole made of a tire tread, or huarache (running shoe) (/wiki/Huarache_(running_shoe)) , a flat sandal used by minimalist runners. Jelly sandals or jelly shoes (/wiki/Jelly_shoes) were originally a version of the classic fisherman sandal made in PVC plastic. They were invented in 1946 by Frenchman Jean Dauphant in response to a post-war leather shortage. Later designs featured translucent soft plastic in bright colours; hence the later name of jelly sandals or jellies. Recently, a whole range of styles have been produced in this material, mainly for women and girls, but the classic unisex design remains popular. Jesuslatschen [15] (#cite_note-15) Jipsin (/wiki/Jipsin) , a traditional Korean (/wiki/Korea) sandal made of straw Ojota (/w/index.php?title=Ojota&action=edit&redlink=1) , an extremely durable Peruvian sandal made of recycled tires (/wiki/Tire_recycling) that is traditionally worn in the Andes (/wiki/Andes) by Quechua people (/wiki/Quechua_people) . [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) Paduka (/wiki/Paduka) are the ancient (the time of the Ramayana (/wiki/Ramayana) ) Indian toe-knob sandals. They are not really worn on a daily basis now except by monks or for ceremonial purposes. [19] (#cite_note-19) Patten (/wiki/Patten_(shoe)) , a type of oversized clog often with a wooden sole or metal device to elevate the foot and increase the wearer's height or aid in walking in mud Roman sandal (/w/index.php?title=Roman_sandal_(disambiguation)&action=edit&redlink=1) , a sandal held to the foot by a vamp (/wiki/Shoe#Shoe_construction) composed of a series of equally spaced, buckled straps Saltwater sandals (/wiki/Saltwater_sandals) , a flat sandal developed in the 1940s as a way of coping with wartime leather shortages, primarily worn by children Soft foam sandals, invented in 1973, are made from closed-cell soft foam and uses surgical tubing for the straps. They are sold primarily along the Texas Gulf Coast in beach side gift shops. T-bar sandals (/wiki/T-bar_sandal) , primarily for children, with an enclosed heel and toe. It is fastened by a cross-wise strap or bar secured by a buckle, or more recently by Velcro. A length-wise strap extends from the vamp and joins the cross-strap over the arch of the foot to form a T shape. A common variant has two cross-straps. The toe is often pierced with a pattern of holes or slots. The sole is low-heeled and usually of crepe rubber, stitched-down to the upper. First seen in Europe and America in the early 20th century, by the 1950s they were very common for boys and girls up to their teens, but are now mainly worn by much younger children. [20] (#cite_note-20) This style or similar styles are also called "Mary Jane" shoes. Waraji (/wiki/Waraji) , Japanese straw sandals common in the Edo period (/wiki/Edo_period) Wörishofer (/wiki/W%C3%B6rishofer) , a ladies' sandal with a cork wedge heel Zōri (/wiki/Z%C5%8Dri) , a flat and thonged Japanese (/wiki/Japan) sandal, usually made of straw, cloth, leather, or rubber Gallery [ edit ] Yoga sandals have thongs that pass between all of the toes. Grecian sandals. Hiking/Sport sandals. High-heeled (/wiki/High-heeled_footwear) sandals. Mexican sandals Charlton Heston (/wiki/Charlton_Heston) and Jack Hawkins (/wiki/Jack_Hawkins) 's caliga (/wiki/Caliga) sandal-boots from the American film (/wiki/American_film) Ben-Hur (/wiki/Ben-Hur_(movie)) Vietnamese sandal Low heel sandals Sandals with a toe thong Fashion sandals Japanese Zori Flip-flops Hiking Sandals See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Birkenstock (/wiki/Birkenstock) Crocs (/wiki/Crocs) Keens (/wiki/Keen_(shoe_company)) Mules (/wiki/Mule_(footwear)) Slipper (/wiki/Slipper) Socks and sandals (/wiki/Socks_and_sandals) References [ edit ] Citations [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "sandal, (https://www.oed.com/view/Entry/170526) n.¹ " (https://www.oed.com/view/Entry/170526) , Oxford English Dictionary , Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) John Wycliffe (/wiki/John_Wycliffe) , Bible (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Bible_(Wycliffe)) , Mark (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Bible_(Wycliffe)/Mark) , 6:9 (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Bible_(Wycliffe)/Mark#Chapter_6) . ^ (#cite_ref-robbins_3-0) Robbins, William G. (2005). Oregon: This Storied Land . Oregon Historical Society Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0875952864 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEWilkinson1847336_4-0) Wilkinson (1847) (#CITEREFWilkinson1847) , p. 336. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Herodotus (/wiki/Herodotus) , History (/wiki/History_(Herodotus)) , Book 2, §37. ^ Jump up to: a b Peck (1898) (#CITEREFPeck1898) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Homer (/wiki/Homer) , Iliad (/wiki/Iliad) , Book 24, l. 340, and Odyssey (/wiki/Odyssey) , Book 8, l. 368. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Anderson (1870) (#CITEREFAnderson1870) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEYates_&_al.1870_9-0) Yates & al. (1870) (#CITEREFYates_&_al.1870) . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Serv. in Virg. Ed. II. cc. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Edward Carpenter (/wiki/Edward_Carpenter) (1899) My Days and Dream, chapter 7 (http://www.edwardcarpenter.net/ecdd7.htm) via Edwardcarpenter.net ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Crochet Sandals" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140724014505/http://freecrochetpattern.weebly.com/crochet-patterns-sandals.html) . Archived from the original (http://freecrochetpattern.weebly.com/crochet-patterns-sandals.html) on 2014-07-24 . Retrieved 2014-06-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Sandal and Footwear Technology - SOURCE Hydration & Sandals" (http://sourceoutdoor.com/hiking-gear/14-sandal-technology) . Retrieved 23 November 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Huaraches: Mexican sandals (http://www.huaraches.com/information/a-brief-history-and-guide-about-huaraches-mexican-sandals) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161007144711/http://www.huaraches.com/information/a-brief-history-and-guide-about-huaraches-mexican-sandals/) 2016-10-07 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) from Huaraches.com ^ (#cite_ref-15) DDR Museum: Sandals in GDR so called (http://www.ddr-museum.de/de/museum/objektdatenbank/?inventarno=1004163) Jesuslatschen ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Have you ever heard about peruvian sandals Yankees?" (https://sylwiatravel.com/have-you-ever-heard-about-peruvian-sandals-yankees/) . Sylwia Travel Peru . 2014-10-29 . Retrieved 2019-08-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Traditional Andean Clothing" (https://threadsofperu.com/pages/traditional-andean-clothng) . Threads of Peru . Retrieved 2019-08-29 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Cómo se hacen los Yanquis u ojotas en Perú (viral) , retrieved 2019-08-29 ^ (#cite_ref-19) Museum, Bata Shoe. "All About Shoes" (https://web.archive.org/web/20091229190953/http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/paduka/the_paduka/index.php) . Archived from the original (http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/paduka/the_paduka/index.php) on 29 December 2009 . Retrieved 23 November 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "closed-toe sandals" (http://histclo.com/style/foot/sandal/sandal-ct.html) . Retrieved 23 November 2016 . Bibliography [ edit ] Anderson, W.C.F. (1870), "Solea" (https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text.jsp?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.04.0063%3Aalphabetic+letter%3DS%3Aentry+group%3D3%3Aentry%3Dsolea-cn) , A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities , London: John Murray (/wiki/John_Murray_(publishing_house)) . Peck, Harry Thurston (1898), "Sandalium" (https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.04.0062%3Aalphabetic+letter%3DS%3Aentry+group%3D3%3Aentry%3Dsandalium-harpers) , Harper's Dictionary of Classical Antiquities , New York: Harper & Brothers . Wilkinson (1847), Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians , vol. II, London: John Murray (/wiki/John_Murray_(publishing_house)) . Yates, James (/wiki/James_Yates_(minister)) ; et al. (1870), "Baxeae or Baxae" (https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text.jsp?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.04.0063%3Aalphabetic+letter%3DB%3Aentry+group%3D1%3Aentry%3Dbaxeae-cn) , A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities , London: John Murray (/wiki/John_Murray_(publishing_house)) . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Sandals (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sandals) . 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Soft woven fabric with a lightly napped surface This article is about the fabric. For the toiletry item, see Washcloth (/wiki/Washcloth) . Not to be confused with a plaid (/wiki/Tartan) fabric. For other uses, see Flannel (disambiguation) (/wiki/Flannel_(disambiguation)) . Flannel shirts are often plaid (/wiki/Tartan) . Flannel is a soft woven (#Weave) fabric (/wiki/Fabric) , of varying fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded (/wiki/Carding) wool (/wiki/Wool) or worsted (/wiki/Worsted) yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , or synthetic fiber (/wiki/Synthetic_fiber) . Flannel is commonly used to make tartan (/wiki/Tartan) clothing, blankets (/wiki/Blanket) , bed sheets (/wiki/Bed_sheet) , sleepwear (/wiki/Sleepwear) , and several other uses. Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a nap (/wiki/Nap_(textile)) on one or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form. The term "flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with a plaid (/wiki/Plaid_(pattern)) or tartan pattern. However, 'flannel' refers simply to the fabric; not all flannel shirts are plaid and not all plaid shirts are flannel. History [ edit ] The word's origin is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales (/wiki/Wales) , where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The fabric was called ''Welsh cotton'', and despite its name, it was a coarse woolen (/wiki/Woolen) material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century. [3] (#cite_note-FEB-3) Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or friezes (/wiki/Frieze_(textile)) , coarse woolen cloth that was the local textile (/wiki/Textile) product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire (/wiki/Newtown,_Montgomeryshire) , [4] (#cite_note-4) Hay on Wye (/wiki/Hay_on_Wye) , [5] (#cite_note-5) and Llanidloes (/wiki/Llanidloes) . [6] (#cite_note-6) The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding (/wiki/Carding) mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from fulling (/wiki/Fulling) ). The marketing of these Welsh woollen (/wiki/Woollen_industry_in_Wales) clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury (/wiki/Drapers_Company_of_Shrewsbury) . [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) At one time, Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used in the several localities, some being softer and finer than others. Dyes determine the flannel's color; this was achieved by mixing white, blue, brown, and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with sulphur dioxide (/wiki/Sulphur_dioxide#As_a_reducing_agent) . [10] (#cite_note-concise-10) Red Flannel Skirt, designed by Sybil Connolly in 1957 During the 1950s, Irish designer Sybil Connolly, inspired by Aran Island and traditional Irish peasant skirts, designed a 'Red Flannel' skirt using red flannel wool. [11] (#cite_note-11) Originally, flannel was made of fine, short staple (/wiki/Staple_(wool)) wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures of silk (/wiki/Silk) and cotton (/wiki/Cotton) had become common. At this time, flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, and it was used extensively until the late 1970s. Flannel plaid shirts (/wiki/Lumberjack_shirt) became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the grunge (/wiki/Grunge) style of bands like Nirvana (/wiki/Nirvana_(band)) and Pearl Jam (/wiki/Pearl_Jam) . [12] (#cite_note-12) Types [ edit ] Flannelette typically refers to a napped cotton (/wiki/Cotton) fabric imitating the texture of flannel. The weft (/wiki/Weft) is generally coarser than the warp (/wiki/Warp_(weaving)) . The flannel-like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft; scratching it and raising it up. Flannelette can either have long or short nap, and can be napped on one or two sides. It comes in many colours, both solid and patterned. [13] (#cite_note-1911EB-13) Baby flannel is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear. [14] (#cite_note-14) Cotton flannel or Canton flannel is a cotton fabric napped on one or two sides. Ceylon's flannel was a name for a wool and cotton mixture. [10] (#cite_note-concise-10) Diaper flannel is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides, and used for making cloth diapers (/wiki/Diapers) . Vegetable flannel (/wiki/Vegetable_flannel) , invented by Léopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s, uses fibres from the Scots pine (/wiki/Pinus_sylvestris) rather than wool. [15] (#cite_note-frank-15) Weave [ edit ] Flannel, flannelette, and cotton flannel can be woven in either a twill (/wiki/Twill) weave or plain weave (/wiki/Plain_weave) . The weave is often hidden by napping on one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then bleached (/wiki/Bleaching) , dyed (/wiki/Dyed) , or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time. [16] (#cite_note-16) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) 1990s portal (/wiki/Portal:1990s) Argyle (pattern) (/wiki/Argyle_(pattern)) Check (pattern) (/wiki/Check_(pattern)) Coldharbour Mill (/wiki/Coldharbour_Mill) – worsted (/wiki/Worsted) flannel museum Madras (cloth) (/wiki/Madras_(cloth)) Sherpa fabric (/wiki/Sherpa_fabric) Tartan (/wiki/Tartan) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth . Internet Archive. New York ; London : Norton. p. 373. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-393-01703-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "WELSH COTTON | Definition of WELSH COTTON by Oxford Dictionary on Lexico.com also meaning of WELSH COTTON" (https://web.archive.org/web/20200806131116/https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/welsh_cotton) . Lexico Dictionaries | English . Archived from the original (https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/welsh_cotton) on August 6, 2020 . Retrieved 2021-05-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-FEB_3-0) Chisholm, Hugh (/wiki/Hugh_Chisholm) , ed. (1911). "Flannel" (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/1911_Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica/Flannel) . Encyclopædia Britannica (/wiki/Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica_Eleventh_Edition) . Vol. 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 480–481. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Newtown History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070420161245/http://www.newtown.org.uk/history.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.newtown.org.uk/history.htm) on April 20, 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust - Projects - Historic Landscapes - Middle Wye - Administrative Landscapes" (https://www.cpat.org.uk/projects/longer/histland/midwye/mwindust.htm) . www.cpat.org.uk . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220818010328/https://www.cpat.org.uk/projects/longer/histland/midwye/mwindust.htm) from the original on 2022-08-18 . Retrieved 2023-02-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Llanidloes - the flannel industry" (http://history.powys.org.uk/history/llani/flan1.html) . history.powys.org.uk . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20060925102414/http://history.powys.org.uk/history/llani/flan1.html) from the original on 2006-09-25 . Retrieved 2007-02-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Dodd, A. H. (1931). Industrial Revolution in North Wales . pp. 229–81. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Jenkins, J. Geraint (1969). The Welsh Woollen Industry . Cardiff. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Jenkins, J. Geraint (1963). "The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire". Montgomeryshire Collections . Vol. 58. pp. 50–69. ^ Jump up to: a b The Concise Household Encyclopedia (c. 1935) The Amalgamated Press (/wiki/The_Amalgamated_Press) , London ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Clothes we still remember" (https://www.irishtimes.com/news/clothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277?mode=sample&auth-failed=1&pw-origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.irishtimes.com%2Fnews%2Fclothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277) . Irish Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220120202305/https://www.irishtimes.com/news/clothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277?mode=sample&auth-failed=1&pw-origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.irishtimes.com%2Fnews%2Fclothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277) from the original on 20 January 2022 . Retrieved 20 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Manufacturing Platform for Apparel Industry | Fast & Sustainable - Fashinza" (https://fashinza.com/fashion-designs/design-trends/90s-grunge-fashion-the-history-of-grunge-and-90s-fashion/) . fashinza.com . Retrieved 2023-12-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-1911EB_13-0) Chisholm, Hugh (/wiki/Hugh_Chisholm) , ed. (1911). "Flannelette" (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/1911_Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica/Flannelette) . Encyclopædia Britannica (/wiki/Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica_Eleventh_Edition) . Vol. 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 481. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. Lewandowski; [illustrations by Dan (2011). The complete costume dictionary . Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 19. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780810840041 . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230223011141/https://books.google.com/books?id=PeXfpsvFyysC&pg=PA19) from the original on 2023-02-23 . Retrieved 2016-11-06 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-frank_15-0) "Vegetable Flannel" (https://books.google.com/books?id=zF02AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA256) . Frank Leslie's Pleasant Hours : 256. 1869. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Grosicki, Z (2014). Watson's Textile Design and Colour . Elsevier Science. p. 327. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781782420088 . External links [ edit ] Media related to Flannel (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Flannel) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Fabric (/wiki/Textile) Types Woven (/wiki/Woven_fabric) Abacá cloth (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1#Textiles) (Medriñaque) Aertex (/wiki/Aertex) Armazine (/wiki/Armazine) Almerían silk (/wiki/Almer%C3%ADan_silk) Barathea (/wiki/Barathea) Barkcloth (/wiki/Barkcloth) Batiste (/wiki/Batiste) Bedford cord (/wiki/Bedford_cord) Bengaline (/wiki/Bengaline) Beta cloth (/wiki/Beta_cloth) Bombazine (/wiki/Bombazine) Brilliantine (/wiki/Brilliantine_(fabric)) Broadcloth (/wiki/Broadcloth) Buckram (/wiki/Buckram) Bunting (/wiki/Bunting_(textile)) Burlap (/wiki/Hessian_fabric) Byrd Cloth (/wiki/Byrd_Cloth) C change (/wiki/C_change) Calico (/wiki/Calico) Cambric (/wiki/Cambric) Canvas (/wiki/Canvas) Chambray (/wiki/Cambric) Capilene (/wiki/Capilene) Cedar bark textile (/wiki/Cedar_bark_textile) Challis (/wiki/Challis_(fabric)) Char cloth (/wiki/Char_cloth) Charmeuse (/wiki/Charmeuse) 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Traditional Japanese undergarment A man wearing a red rokushaku fundoshi (front and back) Fundoshi ( ふんどし/褌 ) is a traditional Japanese undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) for males and females, made from a length of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) . Before World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , the fundoshi was the main form of underwear for Japanese men and women. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) However, it fell out of use quickly after the war with the introduction of new underpants to the Japanese market, such as briefs (/wiki/Briefs) , boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) and panties (/wiki/Panties) . [2] (#cite_note-2) Nowadays, the fundoshi is mainly used not as underwear but as festival ( matsuri (/wiki/Matsuri) ) clothing at Hadaka Matsuri (/wiki/Hadaka_Matsuri) or, sometimes, as swimwear. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) Types and uses [ edit ] An Edo period (/wiki/Edo_period) wood block print of a samurai (/wiki/Samurai) putting on a fundoshi The fundoshi is first mentioned in the classic Japanese history text, the Nihon Shoki (/wiki/Nihon_Shoki) . They are also depicted on clay figures, haniwa . The fundoshi was the underwear of choice of every Japanese adult male and female, rich or poor, high or low status, until after the Second World War (/wiki/World_War_II) , when Americanization (/wiki/Americanization) popularized elasticized undergarments. [4] (#cite_note-4) There are several types of fundoshi , including rokushaku , kuroneko , mokko and etchū . [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) The fundoshi comes in several basic styles. The most relaxed type consists of a strip of cloth, wound around the hips, secured at the small of the back by knotting or twisting, with the excess brought forward between the legs, and tucked through the cloth belt in front to hang as an apron (/wiki/Apron) . The second style, for people who are active, is formed when the cloth is wound around the hips so that there is an excess of an apron, which is brought back again between the legs and twisted around the belt-cloth in the back. The rokushaku fundoshi is a length of cloth, the dimensions being one shaku (/wiki/Shaku_(unit)) (30.3 cm (11.9 in)) wide and six shaku (1.818 m (5 ft 11.6 in)) long; roku is Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_language) for 'six', hence roku-shaku . The fundoshi is often twisted to create a thong (/wiki/Thong) effect at the back. It was also the standard male bathing suit. Male children learning to swim during the early 1960s were often told to wear this kind of fundoshi because a boy in trouble could be easily lifted out of the water by the back cloth of his fundoshi . [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) The third style, called Etchū (/wiki/Etch%C5%AB_Province) fundoshi , which originated in the vicinity of Toyama Prefecture (/wiki/Toyama_Prefecture) , is a long rectangle of cloth with tapes at one narrow end. Etchū fundoshi is a length of cloth; however, it has a strip of material at the waist to form a fastening or string. The dimensions are 14 inches (360 mm) width by about 40 inches (1,000 mm) length, and it is tied with the material strip in front of the body. One ties the tapes around the hips, with the cloth at the small of the back, and then pulls the cloth between the legs and through the belt, letting the remainder hang as an apron. Such fundoshi was issued to Japanese troops in World War II, and often were the sole garb of Allied (/wiki/Allies_of_World_War_II) POWs (/wiki/Prisoner_of_war) in tropic areas. The best material for this is white linen or white cotton. Silk crepe may be used according to one's taste, but plain silk is not suitable. In winter it may be lined with similar material, but in other seasons it is always single. Both ends (or front and back) are hemmed to put cords through. One of the cords forms a loop to suspend the front end from the neck, and the other secures the back end by being tied in the front. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) Variations [ edit ] Participants receiving purification by water at the naked festival (/wiki/Hadaka_Matsuri) in Okayama (/wiki/Okayama) . There are many other varieties of fundoshi as there are many variations on the principle of a loincloth. For example, the mokko-fundoshi (literally "earth-basket loincloth" because it looks like the traditional baskets used in construction), is made like the Etchū-fundoshi but without a front apron; the cloth is secured to the belt to make a bikini effect. The kuro-neko fundoshi (literally "black cat fundoshi ") is like the mokko-fundoshi except that the portion that passes from front to back is tailored to create a thong effect. [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) Fundoshi are not typically worn as everyday clothing. Fundoshi is mainly worn on specific, traditional occasions, particularly when participating in Hadaka Matsuri (/wiki/Hadaka_Matsuri) . During February, nearly 10,000 men will gather at Saidaiji Temple (/wiki/Saidai-ji) in Okayama (/wiki/Okayama) wearing only fundoshi to participate in the festival in hopes of gaining luck for the entire year. [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) The samurai (/wiki/Samurai) wore fundoshi as underwear with armor (/wiki/Armor) , combined with a shitagi (/wiki/Shitagi) shirt. [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) Sumo (/wiki/Sumo) wrestlers also wear a form of this garment, the mawashi (/wiki/Mawashi) . [6] (#cite_note-6) Fundoshi are often worn with a hanten (/wiki/Hanten) or happi (/wiki/Happi) (a short cotton jacket with straight sleeves) during summer festivals by men and women who carry mikoshi (/wiki/Mikoshi) (portable shrines) in Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) processions. Outside Japan it is perhaps best known from the drumming groups Ondekoza (/wiki/Ondekoza) and Kodo (/wiki/Kodo_(taiko_group)) , who appear dressed in only a white fundoshi and a headband. Fundoshi is sometimes used as traditional swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) . In some high schools, boys swim wearing fundoshi . Incumbent Emperor of Japan Naruhito (/wiki/Naruhito) also swam in fundoshi in his childhood. In the pools and beaches of Japan, fundoshi -wearing swimmers occasionally can be seen, as in the case with ama (/wiki/Ama_(diving)) divers in the past. In late 2008, the Japanese firm Wacoal began marketing fundoshi for women and have had greater than expected sales. The loincloths for women come in seven different colors and two designs—plain and chequered. [7] (#cite_note-7) Cultural comparisons [ edit ] The Japanese idiom "fundoshi o shimete kakaru" ('tighten your loincloth') means the same as the English phrase "roll up your sleeves" or even more accurately "gird up your loins"—in other words, get ready for some hard work. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) The Japanese idiom "tanin no fundoshi" (literally, 'anyone else's fundoshi ') is often used in a cautionary context about borrowing or using tools or materials belonging to someone else, the meaning extended to that of profiting at another's expense or taking risks with someone else's money. See also [ edit ] Japan portal (/wiki/Portal:Japan) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) Kaupina (/wiki/Kaupina) Hadaka Matsuri (/wiki/Hadaka_Matsuri) ( 裸祭り , naked festival) List of Japanese clothing (/wiki/List_of_Japanese_clothing) Ondekoza (/wiki/Ondekoza) Kodō (/wiki/Kodo_(taiko_group)) Mawashi (/wiki/Mawashi) , loincloth worn in sumo wrestling (/wiki/Sumo_wrestling) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Arita, Eriko (2009-05-10). "Fundoshi: undercover revolution" (https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2009/05/10/style/undercover-revolution/) . The Japan Times . Retrieved 2023-02-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Cool loincloths breathe new life into Japan underwear market" (https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20190816/p2a/00m/0bu/045000c) . Mainichi Daily News . 2019-08-16 . Retrieved 2023-02-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d "The Fundoshi and Japanese Male Fashion | YABAI - The Modern, Vibrant Face of Japan" (http://yabai.com/p/2213) . YABAI . 25 July 2017 . Retrieved 2023-02-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Loincloths are making a comeback this summer in Japan" (https://sg.style.yahoo.com/loincloths-making-comeback-summer-japan-034947880.html) . sg.style.yahoo.com . 22 June 2017 . Retrieved 2023-02-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Cheapo, Tokyo. "Fundoshi: All About the Traditional Japanese Loincloth and Where to Buy | Tokyo Cheapo" (https://tokyocheapo.com/lifestyle/fundoshi-japanese-loincloth/) . Tokyo Cheapo . Retrieved 2023-02-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) MATCHA. "Fundoshi: The History and Recent Trends in Japanese Traditional Underwear" (https://matcha-jp.com/en/3167) . MATCHA - JAPAN TRAVEL WEB MAGAZINE . Retrieved 2023-02-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Maeda, Toshi (30 March 2009). Miral Fahmy (ed.). "Lingerie firm offers women 'liberating' loincloths" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-loincloths-idUSTRE52T5GR20090330) . Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . Retrieved 6 August 2012 . External links [ edit ] Fundoshi at Wikipedia's sister projects Definitions (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Special:Search/Fundoshi) from Wiktionary Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fundoshi) from Commons "The Loincloth of Borneo" (http://www.ikanlundu.com/literary/borneo_loincloth.html) by Otto Steinmayer – A scholarly article on the wearing of loincloths, with brief mentions of fundoshi. Includes social and cultural connotations, modesty issues, etc. Fundoshi – Japanese Loincloth (https://web.archive.org/web/20041011233251/http://plaza18.mbn.or.jp/~yoshiki/akaba/index23.htm) – the three basic types of fundoshi (via the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ) Fundoshi (loincloth) (http://www.shop-japan.co.jp/english-boku/fundoshi.html) – brief history and types Tying fundoshi: How to tie a Fundoshi (https://web.archive.org/web/20090903054940/http://geocities.com/sg_tiger.geo/fundoshi.html) – via the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Knotting the (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_G_cH_9Z9tmA/RhxrbJDd-TI/AAAAAAAAApM/CYvvvYBXQYY/s1600-h/rokusyakudiagramgf4.jpg) Rokusyaku Fundoshi – diagram How to put on a Fundoshi 褌 Japanese loin cloth video (https://web.archive.org/web/20090201060102/http://japansugoi.com/wordpress/how-to-put-on-a-fundoshi-%E8%A4%8C-japanese-loin-cloth-video/) – via the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) v t e Japanese clothing 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Australian surfing apparel and equipment company Rip Curl Company type Subsidiary Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded 1969 ; 55 years ago ( 1969 ) in Torquay, Victoria (/wiki/Torquay,_Victoria) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) Founder François Payot Brian Singer Doug Warbrick (/wiki/Doug_Warbrick) Headquarters Torquay, Victoria (/wiki/Torquay,_Victoria) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) Key people Brooke Farris (CEO) Products Sporting goods (/wiki/Sporting_goods) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) KMD Brands (/wiki/KMD_Brands) Website www (http://www.ripcurl.com) .ripcurl (http://www.ripcurl.com) .com (http://www.ripcurl.com) Rip Curl is an Australian designer, manufacturer, and retailer of surfing sportswear (/wiki/Surfing#Equipment) (also known as boardwear ) and accompanying products, and a major athletic sponsor. Rip Curl has become one of the largest surfing companies in Australia, Europe, South America, North America and South Africa. Globally, Rip Curl is considered a successful member of the "Big Three", of the surf industry alongside Quiksilver (/wiki/Quiksilver) and Billabong (/wiki/Billabong_(clothing)) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Rip Curl is now present in several areas of board sports, including skateboarding (/wiki/Skateboarding) / surfskating (/wiki/Surfskating) , freestyle skiing (/wiki/Freestyle_skiing) , snowboarding (/wiki/Snowboarding) and wakeboarding (/wiki/Wakeboarding) . Some events in these other disciplines include the Rip Curl SurfSkate Festival , Rip Curl Wake, Skate and Music Festival , Rip Curl City Slam (skateboarding) and the Rip Curl World Heli Challenge (freestyle skiing and snowboarding). History [ edit ] The name "Rip Curl" was taken from a vee-bottom surfboard that co-founder Warbrick bought in 1968, upon which he'd written "Rip Curl Hot Dog." The words didn't mean anything, he later admitted. "Except ripping was groovy; surfing the curl was groovy; we wanted to be groovy – so that was it." — Matt Warshaw, Encyclopedia of Surfing [3] (#cite_note-3) The company was founded in 1969 by Doug Warbrick (/wiki/Doug_Warbrick) and Brian Singer in Torquay, Victoria (/wiki/Torquay,_Victoria) , Australia, and initially produced surfboards (/wiki/Surfboard) . In 1970, they decided to begin production of wetsuits (/wiki/Wetsuit) , with an emphasis on transforming diving technology into a wetsuit suitable for surfing. [ citation needed ] Alan Green (co-founder of Quiksilver) was a Rip Curl employee in 1969 and developed the first Quiksilver boardshorts at the Rip Curl Factory in April 1970. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2019 Tim Baker (/wiki/Tim_Baker_(journalist)) authored, The Rip Curl Story, a book documenting the company's history. The Rip Curl Story celebrates 50 years of surfing and the wanderlust of the Rip Curl founders Doug 'Claw' Warbrick and Brian Singer. [5] (#cite_note-5) It is pegged as both a business primer and an adventure story. [6] (#cite_note-6) In mid-2012, Singer and Warbrick engaged the services of Bank of America Merrill Lynch to sell the brand, but the plan was abandoned in March 2013. [7] (#cite_note-7) In October 2019, Rip Curl was sold to outdoor specialist company Kathmandu (/wiki/KMD_Brands) . [8] (#cite_note-8) On 16 August 2021, Rip Curl appointed Brooke Farris as the Chief Executive Officer (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) . [9] (#cite_note-9) The Search [ edit ] Rip Curl surfboard with thruster fins featuring branding for "The Search", Merewether Beach, NSW, March 2007 Rip Curl is responsible for a campaign called The Search. [10] (#cite_note-10) Surf films by legendary filmmaker Sonny Miller (/wiki/Sonny_Miller) were created as part of the Search campaign: The Search (1992), The Search II (1993), Beyond the Boundaries: The Search III (1994), Feral Kingdom (1995), Tripping the Planet (1996) and Searching for Tom Curren (1996), which was awarded Video of the Year by Surfer magazine in 1997. [11] (#cite_note-11) In 2015 Rip Curl relaunched The Search. [12] (#cite_note-12) Awards [ edit ] Rip Curl is known for manufacturing technical products and innovation in the surf industry. Rip Curl's "FlashBomb Wetsuit" won three consecutive SIMA (Surf Industry Manufacturers Association) awards for "Wetsuit of the Year" in 2011, 2012 and 2013. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) The Rip Curl Group took home six wins at the 2017 SBIA Awards in Australia. [15] (#cite_note-15) Rip Curl's marketing campaign "My Bikini" took home the SIMA Award for "Women's Campaign of the Year" in 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2019. [16] (#cite_note-16) Rip Curl received the 2015 SIMA awards for [17] (#cite_note-17) Women's Marketing Campaign of the Year ("My Bikini"), Wetsuit Brand of the Year (Flash Bomb Zip Free), Accessory Product of the Year (SearchGPS Watch), Women's Swim Brand of the Year and Men's Boardshort of the Year (Mirage MF Driven). Rip Curl received the 2017 SBIA awards for Men's Brand of the Year, Customer Service Team of the Year (Torquay Head Office), WA Account Manager of the Year (Kerry Whitford), Ladies Swimwear Brand of the Year, Men's Boardshort of the Year (Mirage Connor Surge), Wetsuit of the Year (Flashbomb Chest Zip), Surfing Accessory of the Year (FLight Posse Backpack), Ladies Brand of the Year, QLD Account Manager of the Year (Sean Finlay). [18] (#cite_note-18) Rip Curl received the 2019 SBIA awards for Product Innovation of the Year (Heatseeker), Wetsuit of the Year (Flashbomb Heatseeker), Mens Boardshort of the Year (Mirage 3 2 1), Ladies Swimwear Brand of the Year, Sales & Customer Service Office of the Year, Rip Curl National Customer Service WA, Account Manager of the Year (Kerry Whitford), Vic/Tas Account Manager of the Year (Daniel Jenkin), Qld Account Manager of the Year (Sean Finlay), Ladies Brand of the Year, Mens Brand of the Year. [19] (#cite_note-19) Retail stores [ edit ] Rip Curl store in Westfield Carousel (/wiki/Westfield_Carousel) , Perth (/wiki/Perth) Australia/New Zealand: 61 [20] (#cite_note-20) South America (most are licensees): 94 [21] (#cite_note-21) North America: 29 [22] (#cite_note-22) Africa and Middle East: 21 Asia (Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia): 72 Europe: 55 [23] (#cite_note-23) Sponsored WCT World Tour events [ edit ] Surfer competing at the World Surf League event, sponsored by Rip Curl, in Peniche, Portugal Rip Curl Pro Bells (/wiki/Rip_Curl_Pro) Beach – Bells Beach (/wiki/Bells_Beach,_Victoria) , Jan Juc, Victoria (/wiki/Jan_Juc,_Victoria) , Australia Rip Curl Pro Portugal (/wiki/Rip_Curl_Pro_Portugal) – Supertubos Beach, Peniche, Portugal (/wiki/Peniche,_Portugal) Rip Curl Cup Padang Padang – Padang Padang, Uluwatu, Bali (/wiki/Uluwatu,_Bali) , Indonesia Sponsored athletes [ edit ] Mick Fanning (/wiki/Mick_Fanning) Gabriel Medina (/wiki/Gabriel_Medina) Tom Curren (/wiki/Tom_Curren) Mason Ho Matt Wilkinson Tyler Wright (/wiki/Tyler_Wright_(surfer)) Nikki van Dijk (/wiki/Nikki_van_Dijk) Owen Wright (/wiki/Owen_Wright_(surfer)) Jacob Willcox Rosy Hodge Samuel Pupo Conner Coffin Pauline Ado (/wiki/Pauline_Ado) Dillon Perillo Luke Hynd Bruno Santos Pat Curren Xavier Huxtable Matt McGillivray Amuro Tuzuki Morgan Cibillic Brisa Hennessy (/wiki/Brisa_Hennessy) Teresa Bonvalot (/wiki/Teresa_Bonvalot) Winners [ edit ] Bethany Hamilton Tom Curren, won the World Title in 1985, 1986, 1990. [24] (#cite_note-:0-24) Tyler Wright won the WSL World Title in 2016. [25] (#cite_note-25) Mick Fanning won the ASP World Title three times, in 2007, 2009 and 2013. [24] (#cite_note-:0-24) Gabriel Medina won the ASP World Title in 2014. [26] (#cite_note-26) Gabriel Medina won the WSL World Title in 2018. [27] (#cite_note-27) Bethany Hamilton and Mick Fanning were inducted into the iconic Surfer's Hall of Fame in Huntington Beach in 2017. [28] (#cite_note-28) See also [ edit ] Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Australia portal (/wiki/Portal:Australia) List of fitness wear brands (/wiki/List_of_fitness_wear_brands) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Aprhys, Alison (/w/index.php?title=Alison_Aprhys&action=edit&redlink=1) (24 March 2008). "Rip Curl executives happy to be wet behind the ears" (http://www.theage.com.au/business/rip-curl-executives-happy-to-be-wet-behind-the-ears-20080323-213x.html) . The Age . Melbourne. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160624043328/http://www.theage.com.au/business/rip-curl-executives-happy-to-be-wet-behind-the-ears-20080323-213x.html) from the original on 24 June 2016 . Retrieved 14 January 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Paul Ham (4 June 2006). "Aussie who has board meetings on the beach" (http://business.timesonline.co.uk/tol/business/article671305.ece) . London: Sunday Times . Retrieved 1 March 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Matt Warshaw (2005). The Encyclopedia of Surfing . Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. p. 508. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-15-603251-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Timeline - 1970" (http://www.quiksilverinc.com/History/Timeline) . quiksilverinc.com . Quiksilver, Inc . Retrieved 2 September 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Baker, Tim (2019). The Rip Curl Story . Penguin Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780143788874 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Introducing "the Rip Curl Story' (https://www.shop-eat-surf.com/2019/04/introducing-the-rip-curl-story/) " (https://www.shop-eat-surf.com/2019/04/introducing-the-rip-curl-story/) . Shop Eat Surf . 5 April 2019 . Retrieved 6 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Andrew Warren (25 September 2013). "Regaining their "cool": can the big three surf brands recover?" (https://theconversation.com/regaining-their-cool-can-the-big-three-surf-brands-recover-18406) . The Conversation Australia . Retrieved 25 September 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Powell, Dominic (2 October 2019). "A shining exception" (https://www.theage.com.au/business/companies/a-shining-exception-how-rip-curl-caught-a-350-million-wave-20191001-p52wle.html) . The Age . Retrieved 3 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Rip Curl appoints new Chief Executive Officer | Rip Curl USA" (https://www.ripcurl.com/us/blog/rip-curl-appoints-new-chief-executive-officer.html) . www.ripcurl.com . Retrieved 16 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "rip-curl-relaunches-the-search-426416" (http://www.tracksmag.com/rip-curl-relaunches-the-search/) . 20 October 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Surfing Articles: Latest Surf News, Videos, & Photos at Surfline - Surfline" (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/sonny-miller-1960-2014_111877/) . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Surfing Magazine Archive Archives - SURFER Magazine" (http://www.surfingmagazine.com/video/are-there-any-waves-left-to-find/#E6PRj6Q01MLE9PRJ.97) . 20 October 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Kailee Bradstreet (14 February 2014). "SURF INDUSTRY NAMES BEST OF 2013 AT SIMA IMAGE AWARDS" (http://business.transworld.net/147036/news/surf-industry-names-best-2013-sima-image-awards/) . TransWorld Business . TEN . Retrieved 9 October 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Kailee Bradstreet (8 February 2013). "THE 2012 SIMA IMAGE AWARDS WINNERS & PHOTO GALLERY" (http://business.transworld.net/121194/features/the-2012-sima-image-awards-photo-gallery/) . TransWorld Business . TEN . Retrieved 9 October 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Rip Curl International" (https://www.sportingscribe.com/club/1586/international/surfing/world-surf-league/rip-curl-international) . Sporting Scribe . Retrieved 17 August 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "MyBikini Wins 2019 SIMA Awards Women's Marketing Campaign of the Year | Rip Curl USA" (https://www.ripcurl.com/us/blog/sima-2020-marketing-campaign-of-the-year/) . www.ripcurl.com . Retrieved 26 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "13th Annual SIMA Image Awards Given to Surf Industry's Top Innovators | SIMA" (http://sima.com/2016/02/13th-annual-sima-image-awards-given-to-surf-industrys-top-innovators/) . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Rip Curl triumphed at the 2018 SBIA awards, presented with 6 awards and 3 nominations" (https://www.ripcurl.com.au/news/company-news/rip-curl-triumphed-at-the-2018-sbia-awards-presented-with-6-awards-and-3-nominations.html) . www.ripcurl.com.au . Retrieved 26 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Rip Curl Cleans Up at the SBIA Awards with 10 Awards and 5 Runner-Ups" (https://www.ripcurl.com.au/news/company-news/rip-curl-cleans-up-at-the-sbia-awards-with-10-awards-and-5-runner-ups.html) . www.ripcurl.com.au . Retrieved 26 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Rip Curl Stores" (http://www.ripcurl.com.au/index.php?id=627,0,0,1,0,0) . Rip Curl Australasia . Rip Curl International Pty. Ltd. 9 October 2014 . Retrieved 9 October 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Lojas Rip Curl" (http://www.ripcurl.com.br/info.aspx?template=store) . Rip Curl Brasil . Rip Curl International Pty. Ltd. 9 October 2014 . Retrieved 9 October 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Rip Curl Surf Center" (http://www.ripcurl.com/_surfcenter.html) . Rip Curl . Rip Curl International Pty. Ltd. 9 October 2014 . Retrieved 9 October 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Rip Curl CEO on Annual Financial Results 2014" (http://shop-eat-surf.com/2014/10/rip-curl-ceo-on-annual-financial-results/?pid=a) . ^ Jump up to: a b SurferToday.com. "The life and career of Tom Curren" (https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-life-and-career-of-tom-curren) . Surfertoday . Retrieved 7 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "WSL Post Show: Tyler Wright Wins Third Event of 2016" (https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/204795/wsl-post-show-tyler-wright-wins-third-event) . World Surf League . Retrieved 7 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Congratulations Gabriel Medina, 2014 ASP World Champion!" (https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/89177/congratulations-gabriel-medina-2014-asp-world-champion#:~:text=In%20a%20historic%20triumph%2C%20Gabriel,was%20riding%20on%20Fanning's%20performance.) . World Surf League . Retrieved 13 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Gabriel Medina Wins 2018 Pipe Masters And Becomes 2018 WSL World Champion" (https://www.surftotal.com/en/news-all/america-mn-news/item/2051-gabriel-medina-wins-2018-pipe-masters-and-becomes-2018-wsl-world-champion#:~:text=2018%2017%3A08-,Gabriel%20Medina%20Wins%202018%20Pipe%20Masters%20And%20Becomes%202018%20WSL,the%202018%20World%20Surfing%20Champion!) . Surftotal . 18 December 2018 . Retrieved 13 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Mick Fanning and Bethany Hamilton Inducted Into Surfers' Hall Of Fame" (https://www.ripcurl.com.au/news/team-news/mick-fanning-and-bethany-hamilton-inducted-into-surfers-hall-of-fame.html) . www.ripcurl.com.au . Retrieved 7 July 2020 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Rip Curl (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Rip_Curl) . 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Example of broomstick lace Broomstick lace , also known as jiffy lace and peacock eye crochet, is a historic crochet (/wiki/Crochet) technique from the 19th century [1] (#cite_note-Wolfe-1) made using a crochet hook (/wiki/Crochet_hook) and another long slender item such as a knitting needle (/wiki/Knitting_needle) . [2] (#cite_note-2) Traditionally a broomstick was used, hence the name, but the modern variant is a lightweight plastic knitting needle (/wiki/Knitting_needle) or smooth wooden craft dowel (/wiki/Dowel) . A larger knitting needle or dowel will result in a lacier effect, while a smaller will provide a more closely woven effect. The technique is used to make clothing, blankets, and other crocheted items. [1] (#cite_note-Wolfe-1) In most crochet techniques, each stitch is finished before beginning the next. Broomstick lace is different; like in knitting (/wiki/Knitting) and Tunisian crochet (/wiki/Tunisian_crochet) , many stitches are left open for broomstick lace. [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] In Croatian folk costume in the 1800s and 1900s, needlework was often used to accent the sleeves of the oplećak (woman's blouse). One such needlework technique was broomstick lace. [4] (#cite_note-4) Technique [ edit ] As with other forms of crochet the base of the pattern is a chain stitch. The number of stitches in this beginning chain are normally counted in multiples of 3 through 6, depending on the desired effect. The first row can either be immediately done in Broomstick lace, or instead incorporate a single or half-double crochet stitches. The "broomstick" or knitting needle is then used in the next row, as the crocheter pick up a loop through each of the stitches in row one and transfer it from the crochet hook onto the needle or dowel. This part of the process is similar to knitting as all stitches in the row are being picked up and held at one time on the knitting needle being used. Once a loop has been pulled up through every stitch, the loops are then worked back off the dowel by sliding them off in groupings of 3, 4, 5, or 6 loops (depending on the desired effect) at a time and working the same amount of single or half-double crochet stitches through the top of each group of loops at the same time. [1] (#cite_note-Wolfe-1) The overall appearance of the work will vary based upon the number of loops in a group, the size of the knitting needle being used, as well as the type of yarn being used. Typical items made using this technique include afghans, baby blankets, scarves, shawls, and other items where an unusual lacy effect may be desired. [1] (#cite_note-Wolfe-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d Wolfe, Donna (2015). Broomstick Lace Crochet . Stackpole Books. p. 1. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780811716154 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Broomstick Lace Crochet Stitch" (https://www.bhookedcrochet.com/2020/03/26/broomstick-lace-crochet-stitch/) . Bhooked . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Hamoda, Dina M. (2019). "Using Some of Ordinary Fibers and Microfibers to Produce Knee Support for Women to Improve Function Performance". Egyptian Journal of Chemistry . 62 (6): 1309. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Matoković, Dubravka (2020). "Folk Costumes in the Photographs by Julije Kempf and Atelier Wollner at the Beginning of the 20th Century" (https://doi.org/10.32458%2Fei.25.9) . Etnološka istraživanja (Ethnological research) (in Croatian and English). 25 : 40. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.32458/ei.25.9 (https://doi.org/10.32458%2Fei.25.9) . v t e Crochet (/wiki/Crochet) Tools Crochet hook (/wiki/Crochet_hook) Cro-hook (/wiki/Cro-hook) Hook gauge (/wiki/Hook_gauge) List of yarns for crochet and knitting (/wiki/List_of_yarns_for_crochet_and_knitting) Scissors (/wiki/Scissors) Stitch marker (/wiki/Stitch_marker_(crochet)) Techniques and motifs Bead crochet (/wiki/Bead_crochet) Blocking (/wiki/Blocking_(textile_arts)) Gauge (/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)) Granny square (/wiki/Granny_square) List of crochet stitches (/wiki/List_of_crochet_stitches) Shell stitch (/wiki/Shell_stitch) Tapestry crochet (/wiki/Tapestry_crochet) Tunisian crochet (/wiki/Tunisian_crochet) Items Amigurumi (/wiki/Amigurumi) Noken or Bilum (/wiki/Noken) Doily (/wiki/Doily) Crocheted lace Broomstick lace Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Hairpin lace (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Related Crochet thread (/wiki/Crochet_thread) Dye lot (/wiki/Dye_lot) Yarn (/wiki/Yarn) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐xscqw Cached time: 20240719173017 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.332 seconds Real time usage: 0.428 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 559/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 42512/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 141/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 31961/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.237/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 19323894/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase 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Italian international luxury fashion house This article is about the fashion company. For the designer himself, see Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) . For other uses, see Armani (disambiguation) (/wiki/Armani_(disambiguation)) . Giorgio Armani S.p.A. Storefront in Capri (/wiki/Capri) , Italy Company type Private (/wiki/Privately_held_company) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) leisure (/wiki/Leisure) Founded 1975 ; 49 years ago ( 1975 ) Founders Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) Sergio Galeotti (/wiki/Sergio_Galeotti) Headquarters 45°27′42″N 9°10′12″E / 45.4616855°N 9.1700768°E / 45.4616855; 9.1700768 , Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Area served Worldwide Key people Giorgio Armani Revenue €5.90 billion (2019) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €90 million [1] (#cite_note-1) (2020) Number of employees 7,309 (2019) Website armani.com (https://armani.com) Giorgio Armani S.p.A. ( pronounced [ˈdʒordʒo (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) arˈmaːni] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ), commonly known as Armani , is an Italian luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) founded in Milan (/wiki/Milan) by Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) which designs, manufactures, distributes and retails haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) , ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) , leather goods, shoes (/wiki/Shoe) , accessories, and home interiors (/wiki/Interior_design) . Among others, Armani licenses its name and branding to Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) for eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) [2] (#cite_note-2) and L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) for fragrances and cosmetics. [3] (#cite_note-3) It is considered Italy's third-biggest fashion group behind Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) and Prada (/wiki/Prada) . [4] (#cite_note-reuters.com-4) In addition to the couture line Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are the company's ready-to-wear lines that show at Milan Fashion Week (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) . Selling at lower prices are Armani Collezioni, Armani Exchange and Armani Jeans. [5] (#cite_note-5) History [ edit ] Armani and his partner, architect Sergio Galeotti (/wiki/Sergio_Galeotti) , founded Giorgio Armani SpA in 1975, reportedly on money from the sale of Armani's Volkswagen (/wiki/Volkswagen) . [6] (#cite_note-Giorgio_Armani:'I_did_it_my_way'-6) Armani signed a license with Gruppo Finanziario Tessile (GFT) in 1978. [6] (#cite_note-Giorgio_Armani:'I_did_it_my_way'-6) The company also entered into a manufacturing and distribution license with Simint in 1991 when the company launched A|X Armani Exchange. [7] (#cite_note-wwd.com-7) By 1993, the Armani name was represented by 23 licensees and two large joint ventures in Japan (/wiki/Japan) . [8] (#cite_note-8) By the 1990s, the company's strategy was to cancel licenses and take production in-house in a bid to exert more control over quality and distribution. [7] (#cite_note-wwd.com-7) Manufacturing arrangements later brought back in-house include the acquisition of Antinea (1990), Simint (1996) and Intai (1998). [6] (#cite_note-Giorgio_Armani:'I_did_it_my_way'-6) [9] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-9) In 2000, after buying factories from GFT, Armani formed a joint venture with Zegna (/wiki/Zegna) for the production and distribution of the Collezioni men's collection. Armani also increased to 85 percent of its share in the joint venture in Japan with Itochu (/wiki/Itochu) . [6] (#cite_note-Giorgio_Armani:'I_did_it_my_way'-6) In 2001, Armani commissioned architect Tadao Ando (/wiki/Tadao_Ando) to transform an old Nestlé (/wiki/Nestl%C3%A9) chocolate factory in Milan's Savona/Tortona area into the company's headquarters. [10] (#cite_note-10) Also in the early 2000s, Armani opened five megastores designed by Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas (/wiki/Massimiliano_Fuksas) , starting with the opening of the Armani/Manzoni store in Milan in 2000, which carries all of the company's brands. Other such venues are in Hong Kong (Armani/ Chater House (/wiki/Chater_House) , opened in 2002), Munich (/wiki/Munich) (Armani/ Fünf Höfe (/wiki/F%C3%BCnf_H%C3%B6fe) , opened in 2003), Tokyo (Armani/Ginza Tower, opened in 2007) and New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) (Armani/ Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) , opened in 2009). [11] (#cite_note-11) In 2002, Armani announced a new joint venture with the shoe manufacturer I Guardi, as part of a strategy of bringing manufacturing under its control. [12] (#cite_note-12) Beginning in 2007, the company teamed up with Samsung (/wiki/Samsung) to develop a line of high-end electronic goods. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) In 2007, Giorgio Armani confirmed to Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) that he had been approached by Beiersdorf (/wiki/Beiersdorf) in 2005 about a potential merger but had since been too distracted by other projects to pursue that option. [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2016, he confirmed he had established the Giorgio Armani Foundation [17] (#cite_note-17) which, while aiming to fund social projects, is also to "safeguard the governance assets of the Armani Group and ensure that these assets are kept stable over time." [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) As part of his succession plan, the foundation will own an undisclosed stake in the company, with the rest going to his family. [20] (#cite_note-20) By 2017, the company was seen as a prime candidate for a stock market listing. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2021, Giorgio Armani ruled out merging with either LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) or Kering (/wiki/Kering) [22] (#cite_note-22) and reportedly also ruled out an offer by Stellantis (/wiki/Stellantis) to acquire a minority stake. [23] (#cite_note-23) In February 2020, Armani was the first fashion brand to decide to close its runway shows to the public amid the beginning COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) , holding the event without an audience. [24] (#cite_note-24) By March 2020, all of its Italian production plants started producing single use medical overalls. [25] (#cite_note-25) In 2021, luxury yacht maker The Italian Sea Group announced that Giorgio Armani SpA would invest in the company's IPO at the Italian Bourse (/wiki/Italian_Bourse) . [26] (#cite_note-26) Brands [ edit ] The former site of the Giorgio Armani VIPIN KUMAR boutique in Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) Giorgio Armani [ edit ] Giorgio Armani (originally Giorgio Armani Borgonuovo) is a high-end label specializing in men's and women's ready-to-wear, accessories, glasses, cosmetics, and perfumes. It is available only in Giorgio Armani boutiques, specialty clothiers and select high-end department stores. The logo is a curved "G" completing a curved "A", forming a circle. In 2001, Armani created a joint venture with Vestimenta for the production of the men's and women's Borgonuovo line. [27] (#cite_note-27) Giorgio Armani worked with Albert Wolsky (/wiki/Albert_Wolsky) for Duplicity (/wiki/Duplicity_(film)) (2009), [28] (#cite_note-28) with Lindy Hemming (/wiki/Lindy_Hemming) on the costumes for the cast of both The Dark Knight (/wiki/The_Dark_Knight) (2008) and The Dark Knight Rises (/wiki/The_Dark_Knight_Rises) (2012), [29] (#cite_note-29) with April Ferry (/wiki/April_Ferry) for Elysium (/wiki/Elysium_(film)) (2013) [30] (#cite_note-30) and with Sandy Powell (/wiki/Sandy_Powell_(costume_designer)) for The Wolf of Wall Street (/wiki/The_Wolf_of_Wall_Street_(2013_film)) (2013). [31] (#cite_note-31) Other costume design projects have included American Gigolo (/wiki/American_Gigolo) (1980), The Untouchables (/wiki/The_Untouchables_(film)) (1987), A Star for Two (/wiki/A_Star_for_Two) (1991), The Bodyguard (/wiki/The_Bodyguard_(1992_film)) (1992), Nirvana (/wiki/Nirvana_(1997_film)) (1997), Hurlyburly (/wiki/Hurlyburly_(film)) (1998), Ocean's Thirteen (/wiki/Ocean%27s_Thirteen) (2007), Inglourious Basterds (/wiki/Inglourious_Basterds) (2009), The String (/wiki/The_String) (2009), [32] (#cite_note-32) Hanna (/wiki/Hanna_(film)) (2011), [33] (#cite_note-33) Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol (/wiki/Mission_Impossible:_Ghost_Protocol) (2011), A Most Violent Year (/wiki/A_Most_Violent_Year) (2014) [34] (#cite_note-34) and The Young Pope (/wiki/The_Young_Pope) (2016). [35] (#cite_note-35) In 2016, Giorgio Armani stopped using animal fur in all of its collections, citing the availability of "valid alternatives at our disposition that render the use of cruel practices unnecessary as regards animals." [36] (#cite_note-36) For its campaigns, the brand has worked with photographers including Sølve Sundsbø (/wiki/S%C3%B8lve_Sundsb%C3%B8) (2015), [37] (#cite_note-37) Peter Lindbergh (/wiki/Peter_Lindbergh) (2017) [38] (#cite_note-38) and Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (/wiki/Mert_and_Marcus) (2019). [39] (#cite_note-39) Armani Collezioni [ edit ] Armani Collezioni at Indooroopilly Shopping Centre (/wiki/Indooroopilly_Shopping_Centre) Established in 1979, [40] (#cite_note-IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way_2002-40) Armani Collezioni (known as Giorgio Armani Le Collezioni for women and Mani for men before 2000) [41] (#cite_note-41) was the diffusion line of Giorgio Armani that retailed at a lower price than Giorgio Armani and the haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) line, Armani Privé . The logo was usually displayed in black and written on a white label but often varies. "Armani" being larger and "Collezioni" underneath it. Armani Collezioni provided made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) tailored suits and shirts where every element can be chosen. In addition to being sold in the two freestanding boutiques (which feature the Collezioni line exclusively) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) and Paris (/wiki/Paris) , Armani Collezioni was usually sold in department stores and outlets while Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani are only sold in freestanding boutiques. A sporty line of the label has appeared named "Armani Collezioni Active" in the same way as the EA7 line from the Emporio Armani line. As part of a restructuring in 2017, Armani Collezioni – alongside Armani Jeans – was folded into Emporio Armani. [42] (#cite_note-ft.com-42) Armani Privé [ edit ] Previously labeled Giorgio Armani Atelier, Armani Privé is the label for the designer’s made-to-order pieces. [43] (#cite_note-43) Under the Privé label, the brand offers the couture collection, fragrances and jewelry. [44] (#cite_note-44) Beauty products [ edit ] In 1980, Armani partnered with L'Oreal (/wiki/L%27Oreal) on a licensing agreement for the production and distribution of fragrances, cosmetics and beauty products in 1980 [45] (#cite_note-45) It launched its first women's fragrance in 1982 and its first men's fragrance in 1984. [40] (#cite_note-IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way_2002-40) Over the years, cosmetics campaigns featured Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) (2008), [46] (#cite_note-46) Kasia Smutniak (/wiki/Kasia_Smutniak) (2009), [47] (#cite_note-47) Megan Fox (/wiki/Megan_Fox) (2010), [48] (#cite_note-48) Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) (2013), [49] (#cite_note-49) Valentina Sampaio (/wiki/Valentina_Sampaio) (2021), [50] (#cite_note-50) Tessa Thompson (/wiki/Tessa_Thompson) (2022), [51] (#cite_note-51) Regé-Jean Page (/wiki/Reg%C3%A9-Jean_Page) (2022), [52] (#cite_note-52) Sydney Sweeney (/wiki/Sydney_Sweeney) (2023) [53] (#cite_note-53) and Aaron Taylor-Johnson (/wiki/Aaron_Taylor-Johnson) (2024). [54] (#cite_note-54) Emporio Armani [ edit ] Emporio Armani at Yerevan (/wiki/Yerevan) 's Northern Avenue (/wiki/Northern_Avenue,_Yerevan) Established in 1981, [40] (#cite_note-IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way_2002-40) Emporio Armani is the second brand of the Armani family and features ready-to-wear and runway collections. Emporio Armani focuses on trends and modern traits. Also, Emporio Armani , along with Giorgio Armani , are the only two ready-to-wear brands that are mainly designed by Giorgio Armani himself, and has a spotlight at Milan Fashion Week (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) every year while Armani Collezioni, Armani Jeans, and Armani Exchange do not. Emporio Armani products are usually only sold in freestanding Emporio Armani boutiques and on the official website. [55] (#cite_note-55) Over the years, Emporio Armani underwear campaigns featured David Beckham (/wiki/David_Beckham) (2008–2010), [56] (#cite_note-Apollo_Minerva_h-56) Victoria Beckham (/wiki/Victoria_Beckham) (2009), [57] (#cite_note-57) Cristiano Ronaldo (/wiki/Cristiano_Ronaldo) (2010), Megan Fox (/wiki/Megan_Fox) (2010), Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) (2011), Rafael Nadal (/wiki/Rafael_Nadal) (2011) [58] (#cite_note-58) and Calvin Harris (/wiki/Calvin_Harris) (2015). [59] (#cite_note-59) The brand's watch ad campaign has featured Shawn Mendes (/wiki/Shawn_Mendes) (2019), among others. [60] (#cite_note-60) For its campaigns, the brand has worked with photographers including Alasdair McLellan (/wiki/Alasdair_McLellan) (2012) [61] (#cite_note-61) and Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (/wiki/Mert_and_Marcus) . [56] (#cite_note-Apollo_Minerva_h-56) In 2013, Emporio Armani partnered with 21st Century Fox (/wiki/21st_Century_Fox) on the costumes for the cast of The Counselor (/wiki/The_Counselor) . [62] (#cite_note-62) In 2004, Emporio Armani also teamed up with Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) to create fashion shoes under the label EA7 . Emporio Armani is also the official kit supplier of Italian football side SSC Napoli (/wiki/SSC_Napoli) under its EA7 brand. On the basketball side, they are the title sponsor and kit supplier of Olimpia Milano (/wiki/Olimpia_Milano) , and from the 2023/24 season also became the official kit supplier of Blu Basket 1971 (/wiki/Blu_Basket_1971) . Armani Jeans [ edit ] Established in 1981, Armani Jeans was a full casual sportswear collection. [63] (#cite_note-Sara_Gay_Forden_1998-63) [64] (#cite_note-64) From 1997 on, the brand started to operate standalone stores. [65] (#cite_note-65) [63] (#cite_note-Sara_Gay_Forden_1998-63) As part of a restructuring in 2017, Armani Jeans – alongside Armani Collezioni – was folded into Emporio Armani. [42] (#cite_note-ft.com-42) Giorgio Armani Occhiali [ edit ] In 1987, Giorgio Armani Occhiali was established. In 1988, the company entered into a licensing agreement with Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) for eyewear. [9] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-9) From 2003 until 2012, Safilo Group (/wiki/Safilo_Group) held the exclusive license for Armani-branded eyewear before losing it again to Luxottica [66] (#cite_note-66) [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-68) until 2037. [69] (#cite_note-69) As part of the brand's first-ever eyewear collection in 2021, it presented a pair of oval-shaped wire-rimmed silver glasses that Giorgio Armani has worn, in sunglass and reading form, since the late 1980s. [70] (#cite_note-70) Armani Exchange [ edit ] Armani Exchange Logo A|X Armani Exchange was launched in 1991 in the U.S. It retails fashion and lifestyle products and is known for its occasionally provocative ad campaigns. Inspired by street-chic culture and dance music, it is targeted as the more accessible Armani brand. A|X Armani Exchange products are available exclusively in 270 stores in 31 countries and on the brand's website. The line was a pioneer in online communication and retailing, launching its armaniexchange.com site in 1995 and adding online sales in 1997. [71] (#cite_note-Luisa_Zargani_2017-71) To accelerate the development of the nascent line, Giorgio Armani co-established the joint venture (/wiki/Joint_venture) company Presidio Holdings Ltd in 2005 alongside Como Holdings, the company owned by the Singaporean tycoon Ong Beng Seng (/wiki/Ong_Beng_Seng) that, since 1994, has held the production and distribution license for A/X Armani Exchange in the United States (/wiki/United_States) , Canada (/wiki/Canada) , Central (/wiki/Central_America) and South America (/wiki/South_America) and Asia-Pacific (/wiki/Asia-Pacific) . By 2006, A|X Armani Exchange launched a sunglasses line under license with Safilo (/wiki/Safilo) . [72] (#cite_note-72) Initially, the company held 25% of Presidio Holdings, with the remaining 75% being in the hands of Como Holdings. In 2008, Giorgio Armani acquired an additional 25% stake. In 2014, it acquired the remaining 50% "ensuring full ownership of the brand, which has 270 stores and over 3,000 employees", the company said in a statement. In 2008, A|X Armani Exchange redesigned its logo. [73] (#cite_note-73) As part of a relaunch and repositioning plan initiated in 2014, the collection was gradually introduced in Europe, too. [74] (#cite_note-74) Over the years, A|X Armani Exchange campaigns featured Cara Delevingne (/wiki/Cara_Delevingne) (2017), Martin Garrix (/wiki/Martin_Garrix) (2017) and Li Yifeng (/wiki/Li_Yifeng) (2017). [71] (#cite_note-Luisa_Zargani_2017-71) Armani Junior and Armani Baby [ edit ] An Armani Junior boutique in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) Armani designs products for babies, toddlers, and teenagers under the labels Armani Junior (ages five to 14) and Armani Baby (for children up to the age of four). [75] (#cite_note-75) The Armani Junior brand was introduced in 1979. [76] (#cite_note-76) The junior line consists of baby clothing, accessories, T-shirts, pullovers, suits, shoes, hats, shirts, belts, bags, and underwear. [77] (#cite_note-77) In 2006, Giorgio Armani signed a licensing agreement with Mirella Srl for the production and distribution of the two lines’ footwear. [78] (#cite_note-78) Armani Junior has 167 independent boutiques around the globe, which only sell the sub-label. The label is also sold in other stores by the label including Armani/Casa , Armani Jeans or Emporio Armani . In total, 308 independent and franchise Armani stores sell the Armani Junior and Armani Baby products throughout the whole world. [79] (#cite_note-Stores-79) In addition, the label is available in selected department stores everywhere in the world, for example Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) , Breuninger (/wiki/Breuninger) and Peek & Cloppenburg (/wiki/Peek_%26_Cloppenburg) . [80] (#cite_note-80) In May 2014, actress Quvenzhané Wallis (/wiki/Quvenzhan%C3%A9_Wallis) was named the face of Armani Junior . [81] (#cite_note-81) Giorgio Armani Neve [ edit ] Launched in 1995, [40] (#cite_note-IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way_2002-40) Armani developed a collection of men's and women's skiwear and apres-ski casualwear called Giorgio Armani Neve, produced by the Skinea company, a division of Gruppo Belfe. [82] (#cite_note-82) It was re-launched in 2022. [83] (#cite_note-83) Giorgio Armani Orologi [ edit ] Giorgio Armani Orologi was established in 1997. [40] (#cite_note-IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way_2002-40) In 2014, the company entered into a licensing agreement with Fossil (/wiki/Fossil_Group) for watches and jewelry. [84] (#cite_note-84) In 2021, Giorgio Armani launched a namesake fine watches collection in a collaboration with Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier (/wiki/Parmigiani_Fleurier) , the first such project for the designer. [85] (#cite_note-85) Armani/Casa [ edit ] An Armani/Casa boutique in Lisbon (/wiki/Lisbon) , Portugal (/wiki/Portugal) , December 2007 The Armani label also consists of a furniture and home collection called Armani/Casa . [86] (#cite_note-86) While the Italian word "casa" usually means "house", its usage here instead means "at home". [87] (#cite_note-87) Giorgio Armani launched his interior design collection in 2000 with a flagship store opening in Milan, Italy (/wiki/Italy) the same year. When Armani was asked about why he wanted a furniture line, Armani said that he wanted "people to design their own private home". "Designing this furniture and home collection helped me to stimulate my creative and artistic vein", Armani said. Critics responded very positively to the Armani/Casa label calling the style "simply elegant, a little retro with Ethno elements" to it. A lot of critics also liked the fact that there are only a "few ornaments" used but with "artistic detail" which seems to have a "tremendous effect on the style and furniture" itself. [88] (#cite_note-88) Armani collaborates with Rubelli and the Molteni Group to build the home collection. [89] (#cite_note-89) As the Architectural Digest (/wiki/Architectural_Digest) reported in February 2012, that Armani/Casa includes state-of-the-art kitchens, sold under the Armani/Dada name – a partnership with Molteni Group, as well as luxurious fabrics produced in collaboration with Rubelli . [90] (#cite_note-90) Armani/Roca is a partnership with Roca (/wiki/Roca_(company)) , which provides Giorgio Armani with bathroom furniture and accessoires. [91] (#cite_note-91) The sub-label consisting of variegated products [92] (#cite_note-92) is sold in 183 independent Armani stores as well as selected retailers throughout the world. [79] (#cite_note-Stores-79) [93] (#cite_note-93) Armani/Casa is used in the Armani hotels, [94] (#cite_note-94) equipped John Mayers (/wiki/John_Mayer) New York City apartment [95] (#cite_note-95) and decorated the scenes for the 2013 film Paranoia (/wiki/Paranoia_(2013_film)) . [96] (#cite_note-96) As part of a restructuring in 2017, Armani Casa – alongside Giorgio Armani Privé – was folded into Giorgio Armani. [42] (#cite_note-ft.com-42) Armani/Dolci [ edit ] A 2008 Armani/Dolci gift box Confectionery (/wiki/Confectionery) is also under the Armani name. [97] (#cite_note-97) [98] (#cite_note-98) The brand was established in 2002. [99] (#cite_note-99) For the creations and collections Armani collaborates with the Italian chocolate manufacturer Guido Gobino . [100] (#cite_note-100) Armani/Dolci sells chocolates, jams, honey, tea, shortbread biscuits, sugar and pralines (/wiki/Praline_(Belgian_chocolate)) . [101] (#cite_note-101) The brand is mostly part of other Armani stores but has got an independent boutique in Taichung, Taiwan (/wiki/Taichung,_Taiwan) . [102] (#cite_note-102) In total, 152 stores sell Armani/Dolci products. [79] (#cite_note-Stores-79) Over the years, Armani created various limited Armani/Dolci products to celebrate special occasions. [103] (#cite_note-103) For example, Armani designed chocolate Easter eggs, [104] (#cite_note-104) heart-shaped boxes with red, pink and lilac chocolate truffles for Valentine's Day (/wiki/Valentine%27s_Day) , [105] (#cite_note-105) as well as a Ramadan (/wiki/Ramadan) collection for the Muslim (/wiki/Muslim) holiday [106] (#cite_note-106) featuring refined colors of Islamic (/wiki/Islam) art and no alcohol. [107] (#cite_note-107) In addition, Armani/Dolci sells special delicate collections for Christmas (/wiki/Christmas) [108] (#cite_note-108) and its significant anniversaries. [109] (#cite_note-109) The Armani/Dolci brand [110] (#cite_note-110) is well received by both critics and the public. [111] (#cite_note-111) Armani/Fiori [ edit ] Armani/Fiori boutique at Chater House in Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) The Giorgio Armani label also has a florist (/wiki/Florist) under its name, called Armani/Fiori . [112] (#cite_note-112) The exclusive floral service is active since 2000 in major independent flower boutiques and other Armani stores around the world. [113] (#cite_note-113) The flowers used for the Armani/Fiori arrangements come mostly from the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) . The label uses a large selection of orchids (/wiki/Orchid) , as well as exotic and tropical flowers alongside more traditional flowers such as hydrangeas (/wiki/Hydrangea) , roses (/wiki/Rose) and peonies (/wiki/Peonie) . Each collection is personally designed by Giorgio Armani himself as he wants to transport an "Asian feel". [114] (#cite_note-114) In addition, Armani/Fiori offers decorative elements like vases, flowerpots, candles and lanterns. [115] (#cite_note-115) For the collections, Armani uses precious materials like alabaster (/wiki/Alabaster) , black marble (/wiki/Marble) , and lacquered wood (/wiki/Wood) in the shape of cylinders, cubes, and rhomboids. [116] (#cite_note-116) Giorgio Armani also designed special floral arrangements for occasions like Valentine's Day [117] (#cite_note-117) and spring collections. [118] (#cite_note-118) The labels floral arrangements are used in the Armani hotels. [119] (#cite_note-119) Armani/Hotels [ edit ] Giorgio Armani and Emaar Properties PJSC (/wiki/Emaar_Properties_PJSC) signed an agreement in 2005 for Emaar Properties PJSC to build and operate at least seven luxury hotels and three vacation resorts under the Armani name. Armani would be responsible for overseeing all aspects of the interior design and style of the hotels. The Armani hotel was opened in Burj Khalifa (/wiki/Burj_Khalifa) on April 27, 2010, [120] (#cite_note-120) comprising the bottom 39 floors of the supertall skyscraper (/wiki/Supertall_skyscraper) in Dubai (/wiki/Dubai) , United Arab Emirates (/wiki/United_Arab_Emirates) . It has 160 guest rooms and suites, and 144 residences. Giorgio Armani also designed the interiors of the Armani Residences, also within the skyscraper, and its specially designed line of products from the Armani/Casa home furnishings collection and the Armani/Fiori flower arrangements. [121] (#cite_note-121) The "Burj Khalifa Armani Residences Road Show" toured Milan, London (/wiki/London) , Jeddah (/wiki/Jeddah) , Moscow (/wiki/Moscow) and New Delhi (/wiki/New_Delhi) . The London event was housed in the Armani Casa Showroom in New Bond Street (/wiki/New_Bond_Street) . [122] (#cite_note-122) The second club opened in 2011 in Milan. The hotel is located in a palazzo on Via Manzoni in the heart of the city. [123] (#cite_note-123) Armani/Privé Club [ edit ] Armani operates two luxury clubs under the Armani/Privé name in both Milan and Dubai. According to its website, "Armani/Privé prides itself on primely located clubs at the cutting edge of the city's nightlife scene, setting the bar high by attracting internationally acclaimed resident DJs that play the latest beats to a carefully selected crowd, sipping on signature cocktails." [124] (#cite_note-124) Luggage [ edit ] In 1994, Giorgio Armani signed a license agreement with Redwall to produce and distribute bags and small leather luggage products for the Borgonuovo, Giorgio Armani Collezioni and Emporio Armani lines. [125] (#cite_note-125) In 2008, Giorgio Armani launched its Luxury Traveller Collection of men's and women's handcrafted luggage. [126] (#cite_note-126) Jewelry [ edit ] In 2019, Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Jewellery made its debut in New York. [127] (#cite_note-127) The same year, Giorgio Armani presented its first high jewelry collection. [128] (#cite_note-128) Social responsibility [ edit ] In 2006, Emporio Armani became a partner of the global Product Red (/wiki/Product_Red) initiative, founded by Bono and Bobby Shriver to fight AIDS in Africa (/wiki/AIDS_in_Africa) . In 2011, the Acqua For Life project was launched, in collaboration with Giorgio Armani Parfums, Green Cross International (/wiki/Green_Cross_International) , and UNICEF (/wiki/UNICEF) : for every bottle of Acqua di Giò sold, $1 is donated, up to $50,000, to the UNICEF (/wiki/UNICEF) "UNICEF Tab Project", which aims to provide clean water to children in African countries. Finally, in conjunction with the Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/Cannes_Film_Festival) in 2012, an important collaboration with J/P HRO (Haitian Relief Organization) was launched. [129] (#cite_note-129) [130] (#cite_note-130) The Armani fashion house was one of the first to support international guidelines for a concept of sustainable fashion at the social and environmental level, starting to work on a production system that can protect the health of the planet, focusing on the production of garments that can be durable over time. [131] (#cite_note-131) In 2020, Giorgio Armani was awarded the "Fashion Dresses Peace" award, a public recognition awarded to authoritative figures who have distinguished themselves for their commitment to inclusion or against discrimination and racism, promoted by the African Fashion Gate social promotion association. [132] (#cite_note-132) [133] (#cite_note-133) [134] (#cite_note-134) In 2020, Giorgio Armani donated a total of €2,000,000 to several Italian hospitals ( Luigi Sacco (/wiki/Luigi_Sacco) , San Raffaele and Institute of Oncology hospitals in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Spallanzani in Rome, Humanitas Gavazzeni in Bergamo (/wiki/Bergamo) , Guglielmo di Saliceto in Piacenza, Versilia in Lido di Camaiore) and to the Civil Protection to combat the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic (/wiki/SARS-CoV-2_pandemic) and converted its production facilities into facilities for the production of disposable gowns. [135] (#cite_note-135) [136] (#cite_note-136) [137] (#cite_note-137) Sponsoring and philanthropy [ edit ] In 2015, Armani opened Armani/Silos (/wiki/Armani/Silos) , an exhibition space in Milan which has in the past which staged solo exhibitions of Larry Fink (/wiki/Larry_Fink_(photographer)) (2017), Sarah Moon (/wiki/Sarah_Moon) (2018), Paolo Ventura (/wiki/Paolo_Ventura) (2018), [138] (#cite_note-138) Tadao Ando (/wiki/Tadao_Ando) (2019) and Peter Lindbergh (/wiki/Peter_Lindbergh) (2020). [139] (#cite_note-139) Armani Beauty has been a major supporter of the Venice Film Festival (/wiki/Venice_Film_Festival) since 2018 and was the event's main sponsor in 2019. [140] (#cite_note-140) Also in 2019, A|X Armani Exchange became the first fashion brand to debut in the world of e-sports (/wiki/E-sports) — professional multiplayer video game competitions — when it sponsored the Italian team Makers for the 2019–20 season. [141] (#cite_note-141) Among others, Armani designed suits for Italy's delegations to the 2009 FINA World Aquatics Championships (/wiki/FINA_World_Aquatics_Championships) [142] (#cite_note-142) and the 2012 Summer Olympics (/wiki/2012_Summer_Olympics) [143] (#cite_note-143) as well as for the country's national football team (/wiki/Italy_national_football_team) at the UEFA Euro 2020 (/wiki/UEFA_Euro_2020) . [144] (#cite_note-144) Since 2021, the company has been a sponsor of the Scuderia Ferrari (/wiki/Scuderia_Ferrari) , supplying formal attire and travel wear to the Ferrari team's management, drivers and technicians to be worn at official events and during transfers linked to Formula One (/wiki/Formula_One) 's Grand Prix international races. [145] (#cite_note-145) The company also makes kits for Serie A (/wiki/Serie_A) football side Napoli (/wiki/S.S.C._Napoli) under its EA7 brand. [146] (#cite_note-146) In the basket side, is the title sponsor and kit supplier of Olimpia Milano (/wiki/Olimpia_Milano) and from the 2023 -2024 season also became the official kit supplier of Blu Basket 1971 (/wiki/Blu_Basket_1971) . At the ATP Tour (/wiki/ATP_Tour) circuit, Armani dressed so many professional players like Simone Bolelli (/wiki/Simone_Bolelli) , Fabio Fognini (/wiki/Fabio_Fognini) and Lorenzo Sonego (/wiki/Lorenzo_Sonego) . Sustainability [ edit ] Armani banned animal fur (/wiki/Animal_fur) in 2016 and signed in 2019 the "Fashion Pact" with other major industry players to address climate change. In 2021, the Group enhanced its Sustainability Department by employing a Group Director and launching a new sustainability strategy based on the three pillars "People, Planet, Prosperity". The Group has defined concrete objectives within the company and along the entire value chain, in line with the ESG approach (Environmental, Social, Governance) and with the objectives of the Fashion Pact joined in 2019. They have launched sustainable capsules with yarns and fabrics made of materials such as recycled polyester and organic cotton. [147] (#cite_note-147) Moreover, they communicated their commitment to no longer using angora wool (/wiki/Angora_wool) starting from the 2022-23 Autumn/Winter season. [148] (#cite_note-148) Controversy [ edit ] In 1999, the New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) and others raised concerns about a generous donation made by Giorgio Armani SpA to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum (/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Museum) in New York shortly before the museum announced that it would pay homage to Armani himself with a major retrospective of his work. [149] (#cite_note-149) In a 2014 report, Greenpeace (/wiki/Greenpeace) publicly criticized Armani and other luxury brands after having found traces of chemicals that can pollute waterways in children's clothing and shoes; in response, the company committed to abolishing all chemicals which could cause environmental damage to production sites by 2020. [150] (#cite_note-150) Also in 2014, Giorgio Armani SpA paid 270 million euros to Italian tax authorities to settle a dispute over payments from the group's subsidiaries abroad. [151] (#cite_note-151) In 2015, Giorgio Armani Corp's former general counsel Fabio Silva filed a $75 million lawsuit in the New York Supreme Court (/wiki/New_York_Supreme_Court) against the company, accusing it of discriminating against him because of his Mexican origins and firing him for having cancer. [152] (#cite_note-152) [153] (#cite_note-153) On July 17, 2024, the Italian competition authority, Autorità Garante della Concorrenza e del Mercato (/wiki/Italian_Competition_Authority) (AGCM), announced the launch of an investigation into Armani and Dior. The probe aims to determine whether these companies potentially misled consumers regarding their labor practices and supply chain management. [154] (#cite_note-154) See also [ edit ] Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Stephen Jewkes and Claudia Cristoferi (July 26, 2021), Armani bounces back from pandemic as sales rise 34% in first half (https://www.reuters.com/business/armani-bounces-back-pandemic-sales-rise-34-first-half-2021-07-25/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Zargani, Luisa (February 25, 2013). "Giorgio Armani Touts Eyewear With Luxottica" (https://wwd.com/accessories-news/eyewear/armani-touts-eyewear-with-luxottica-6798005/) . Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved September 3, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Mira, Nicola (March 22, 2018). "L'Oréal renews Armani beauty products licence until 2050" (https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/L-oreal-renews-armani-beauty-products-licence-until-2050,961035.html) . Fashion Network . Retrieved September 3, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-reuters.com_4-0) Valentina Za (July 25, 2017), Armani reorganises brands as revenue, profit margins slip (https://www.reuters.com/article/italy-armani-idINKBN1AA24L) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Mesco, Manuela (May 16, 2014). "Giorgio Armani Risks Losing Luster" (http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304908304579565261914045736.html) . Wall Street Journal – via www.wsj.com. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Suzy Menkes (/wiki/Suzy_Menkes) (April 9, 2002), Giorgio Armani:'I did it my way' (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/09/style/IHT-milan-fashion-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) . ^ Jump up to: a b Courtney Colavita (May 3, 2001), Armani to launch bid for Simint SpA buyout (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1183244/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Alex Witchel (February 7, 1993), Armani Disarmed (https://www.nytimes.com/1993/02/07/style/armani-disarmed.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ Jump up to: a b . . . back to the beginning : Giorgio Armani:'I did it my way' (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/09/style/IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) , April 9, 2002. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Suzy Menkes (/wiki/Suzy_Menkes) (17 February 2008), Milan's fashion houses are moving into high-tech homes (https://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/17/style/17iht-rbuild.1.10117937.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Luisa Zargani (July 12, 2007), Armani’s Vision to Tower Over Tokyo (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/armani-s-vision-to-tower-over-tokyo-490306/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Suzy Menkes (/wiki/Suzy_Menkes) (9 April 2002), Giorgio Armani:'I did it my way' (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/09/style/IHT-milan-fashion-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Armani to launch mobile phone with Samsung (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-armani-samsung-idUSL2310030720070923) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) , September 23, 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Stacy Meichtry (September 24, 2007), Armani Links With Samsung For Electronics Line (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB119055137718936501) Wall Street Journal (/wiki/Wall_Street_Journal) . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Marie-Louise Gumuchian (October 9, 2009), Giorgio Armani extends designer touch to new mobile (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-armani-phone-net-idUSTRE5982VY20091009) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Sophie Hardach (November 7, 2007), Armani slams funds, warms to L'Oreal, Nivea maker (https://www.reuters.com/article/idINIndia-30371420071107) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Deborah Ball (July 31, 2016), Giorgio Armani Lays Groundwork for Future of His Fashion House (https://www.wsj.com/articles/giorgio-armani-announces-foundation-to-protect-his-house-1470068542) Wall Street Journal (/wiki/Wall_Street_Journal) . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Luisa Zargani (May 14, 2012), Giorgio Armani Creating a Foundation? (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/planning-ahead-5905928/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Luisa Zargani (July 29, 2016), Giorgio Armani Sets Up Foundation to Own His Company (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/giorgio-armani-foundation-10498616/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Silvia Sciorilli Borrelli (7 September 2023), At 89, Giorgio Armani is still running the show (https://www.ft.com/content/93d43764-73b7-4a06-a501-4a2a5ffe056c) Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Giulia Segreti (January 14, 2017), Giorgio Armani 2016 net revenues down 5 percent, 2017 still 'complicated' (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-armani-results-idUSKBN14Y0FP) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Valentina Za (April 7, 2021), Giorgio Armani could consider an Italian partner - magazine (https://www.reuters.com/business/giorgio-armani-could-consider-an-italian-partner-magazine-2021-04-07/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Pamela Barbaglia, Gwénaëlle Barzic, Silvia Aloisi and Sarah White (July 16, 2021), EXCLUSIVE: Agnelli heir held Armani tie-up talks to build luxury empire - sources (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/exclusive-agnelli-heir-held-armani-tie-up-talks-build-luxury-empire-sources-2021-07-16/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Claudia Cristoferi (January 4, 2022), Armani to cancel January men's, haute couture shows due to COVID-19 surge (https://www.reuters.com/lifestyle/armani-cancel-january-mens-haute-couture-shows-due-covid-19-surge-2022-01-04/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Claudia Cristoferi (March 26, 2020), Italy's Armani converts fashion sites to produce medical overalls (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-health-coronavirus-italy-armani-idUSKBN21D2X1) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Elisa Anzolin (May 17, 2021), Luxury yacht maker Italian Sea Group secures Armani's backing in IPO (https://www.reuters.com/article/the-italian-sea-group-ipo-idUSL5N2N41S1) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Luisa Zargani (7 May 2001), Armani expands in Japan (https://wwd.com/feature/article-1186832-1719886/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Manon Garrigues (11 August 2015), Inspiration: Giorgio Armani's Designs for Cinema (https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/giorgio-armanis-designs-for-cinema/21974) Vogue France (/wiki/Vogue_France) . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Cynthia Martens (18 July 2012), Giorgio Armani to Dress Batman (https://wwd.com/feature/holy-wardrobe-armani-dressing-batman-6091401-584497/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Manon Garrigues (11 August 2015), Inspiration: Giorgio Armani's Designs for Cinema (https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/giorgio-armanis-designs-for-cinema/21974) Vogue France (/wiki/Vogue_France) . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Luisa Zargani (5 December 2013), Giorgio Armani and ‘The Wolf’ (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/giorgio-armani-and-the-wolf-7300556/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Manon Garrigues (11 August 2015), Inspiration: Giorgio Armani's Designs for Cinema (https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/giorgio-armanis-designs-for-cinema/21974) Vogue France (/wiki/Vogue_France) . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Lindsay Flans (11 April 2011), Giorgio Armani Creates Costumes for ‘Hanna’ Star Cate Blanchett (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/lifestyle/style/giorgio-armani-creates-costumes-hanna-176623/) The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Manon Garrigues (11 August 2015), Inspiration: Giorgio Armani's Designs for Cinema (https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/giorgio-armanis-designs-for-cinema/21974) Vogue France (/wiki/Vogue_France) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Alexa Tietjen (18 January 2017), ‘The Young Pope’ Costume Designer Reveals the Story Behind Jude Law’s Red Shoes (https://wwd.com/feature/the-young-pope-costume-designer-talks-jude-laws-red-shoes-armani-10754451/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Alexandra Gibbs," Giorgio Armani Pledges To Go 100% Fur Free," CNBC (https://www.cnbc.com/2016/03/23/) [ permanent dead link ] , 23 March 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-37) Alessandra Turra (30 June 2015), Giorgio Armani Unveils New Normal Ads Campaign (https://wwd.com/feature/armani-new-normal-ads-10172778/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Alessandra Turra (1 July 2016), Giorgio Armani Unveils New Normal Fall Ads (https://wwd.com/feature/giorgio-armani-new-normal-fall-ads-10476794/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Luisa Zargani (6 June 2019), Giorgio Armani Taps Kate Moss for Fall Ad Campaign (https://wwd.com/feature/giorgio-armani-taps-kate-moss-for-fall-ad-campaign-1203151518/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e . . . back to the beginning : Giorgio Armani:'I did it my way' (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/09/style/IHT--back-to-the-beginning-giorgio-armanii-did-it-my-way.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) , 9 April 2002. ^ (#cite_ref-41) The name game (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1203658/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) , 9 February 2000. ^ Jump up to: a b c Rachel Sanderson (25 July 2017), Giorgio Armani rationalises brands as revenues fall (https://www.ft.com/content/ae3c35c4-707b-11e7-aca6-c6bd07df1a3c) Financial Times (/wiki/Financial_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Alessandra Ilari (13 December 2004), Armani’s Latest Gem (https://wwd.com/feature/armani-s-latest-gem-590061-1948016/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Alessandra Ilari (13 December 2004), Armani’s Latest Gem 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"Napoli will wear Giorgio Armani shirts in the new Serie A season" (https://www.mirror.co.uk/sport/football/news/napoli-wear-giorgio-armani-shirts-24795549) . mirror . Retrieved August 9, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-147) Kinzig, A. P.; Clark, W. C.; Edenhofer, O.; Gallopín, G. C.; Lucht, W.; Mitchell, R. B.; Romero Lankao, P.; Sreekesh, S.; Tickell, C.; Young, O. R. (2004), "Group Report: Sustainability" (https://dx.doi.org/10.7551/mitpress/2548.003.0022) , Earth System Analysis for Sustainability , The MIT Press, pp. 409–434, doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.7551/mitpress/2548.003.0022 (https://doi.org/10.7551%2Fmitpress%2F2548.003.0022) , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780262310635 , retrieved June 14, 2023 ^ (#cite_ref-148) Claudia Cristoferi (December 1, 2021), Armani to ban angora wool from next winter season (https://www.reuters.com/markets/commodities/armani-ban-angora-wool-next-winter-season-2021-12-01/) British Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) . ^ (#cite_ref-149) Carol Vogel (December 15, 1999), [1] (https://www.nytimes.com/1999/12/15/arts/armani-gift-to-the-guggenheim-revives-issue-of-art-and-commerce.html) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-150) Isla Binnie (February 17, 2014), Greenpeace finds waterway pollutants in luxury fashion brands (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-fashion-greenpeace-idUSBREA1G16W20140217) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-151) Isla Binnie (April 18, 2014), Fashion house Armani pays 270 mln euros to settle Italian tax dispute - paper (https://www.reuters.com/article/uk-armani-tax/fashion-house-armani-pays-270-mln-euros-to-settle-italian-tax-dispute-paper-idUKBREA3H0DC20140418) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-152) Vicki M. Young (September 15, 2015), Giorgio Armani Corp. Faces $75 Million Lawsuit (https://wwd.com/business-news/legal/former-general-counsel-sued-giorgio-armani-lawsuit-legal-10226305/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-153) Robert Iafolla (September 16, 2015), Former Armani GC sues company for racial and disability discrimination (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-employment-discrimination-idUSL1N11L2OG20150915) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-154) "Italy antitrust targets Armani, Dior after worker exploitation probes" (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/italys-antitrust-investigates-armani-dior-over-alleged-exploitation-workers-2024-07-17/) . Reuters . July 17, 2024 . Retrieved July 17, 2024 . Further reading [ edit ] Mackenzie, Suzie (December 11, 2004). "The gentle touch" (https://www.theguardian.com/weekend/story/0,3605,1369891,00.html) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . London . Retrieved September 23, 2007 . McCartney, Stella (May 16, 2006). "The wisdom of Giorgio" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071001032106/http://news.independent.co.uk/people/profiles/article484641.ece) . Independent on Sunday (/wiki/The_Independent) . London. Archived from the original (http://news.independent.co.uk/people/profiles/article484641.ece) on October 1, 2007 . Retrieved September 23, 2007 . "Q & A: Giorgio Armani" (http://edition.cnn.com/2006/TRAVEL/06/01/milan.qa/) . CNN. The Scene (column). October 3, 2006 . Retrieved September 23, 2007 . Lee, Vinny (September 22, 2007). "Above the shop" (http://property.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/property/interiors/article2474210.ece) . The Times (/wiki/The_Times) . London . Retrieved September 23, 2007 . 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Simple, loose over-garment wore by women, especially Muslim women For other uses, see Abaya (disambiguation) (/wiki/Abaya_(disambiguation)) . A modern abaya. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Islamic_female_clothing) on Islamic (/wiki/Islam) female (/wiki/Women_in_Islam) dress (/wiki/Islamic_clothing) Types (/wiki/Types_of_hijab) Abaya Al-amira (/wiki/Al-amira) Battoulah (/wiki/Battoulah) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Çarşaf (/wiki/%C3%87ar%C5%9Faf) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Haik (/wiki/Haik_(garment)) Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) Jilbaab (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) Kerudung (/wiki/Kerudung) Kimeshek (/wiki/Kimeshek) Khimar (/wiki/Khimar) Kurhars (/wiki/Kurhars) Mukena (/wiki/Mukena) Niqaab (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) Safseri (/wiki/Safseri) Selendang (/wiki/Selendang) Shayla (/wiki/Shayla) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Yashmak (/wiki/Yashmak) Practice and law by country (/wiki/Hijab_by_country) Australia (/wiki/Burka_ban_in_Australia) Britain (/wiki/British_debate_over_veils) Canada (/wiki/Islamic_veiling_practices_by_country#Canada) Egypt (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b_in_Egypt) France (/wiki/Islamic_scarf_controversy_in_France) Indonesia (/wiki/Women_in_Indonesia#National_law_and_sharia) Iran (/wiki/Hijab_in_Iran) Pakistan (/wiki/Women_in_Pakistan#Culture) Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Women%27s_rights_in_Saudi_Arabia#Hijab_and_dress_code) Taliban Afghanistan (/wiki/Taliban_treatment_of_women#Gender_policies) Turkey (/wiki/Headscarf_controversy_in_Turkey) Concepts Andaruni (/wiki/Andaruni) Awrah (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) Fahisha (/wiki/Fahisha) Gender segregation (/wiki/Islam_and_gender_segregation) Haya (/wiki/Haya_(Islam)) Purdah (/wiki/Purdah) Zenana (/wiki/Zenana) Other Hijabophobia (/wiki/Hijabophobia) Hujum (/wiki/Hujum) Kashf-e hijab (/wiki/Kashf-e_hijab) My Stealthy Freedom (/wiki/My_Stealthy_Freedom) Wimple (/wiki/Wimple) World Hijab Day (/wiki/World_Hijab_Day) v t e The abaya ( colloquially (/wiki/Varieties_of_Arabic) and more commonly, Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_language) : عباية ʿabāyah , especially in Literary Arabic (/wiki/Modern_Standard_Arabic) : عباءة ʿabā'ah ; plural عبايات ʿabāyāt , عباءات ʿabā'āt ), sometimes also called an aba , is a simple, loose over- garment (/wiki/Garment) , essentially a robe (/wiki/Robe) -like dress, worn by some women in the Muslim world (/wiki/Muslim_world) including most of the Middle East (/wiki/Middle_East) , North Africa (/wiki/North_Africa) , and parts of the Horn of Africa (/wiki/Horn_of_Africa) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Traditional abayas are usually black and may either be a large square of fabric draped from the shoulders or head or a long kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) . The abaya covers the whole body except the head (sometimes), feet, and hands. It can be worn with the niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) , a face veil covering all but the eyes. Some women also wear long black gloves (/wiki/Evening_glove) , so their hands are covered as well. It is common that the abaya be worn on special occasions, such as mosque visits, Islamic holiday celebrations for Eid al-Fitr (/wiki/Eid_al-Fitr) and Eid al-Adha (/wiki/Eid_al-Adha) , and also during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan (/wiki/Ramadan) . Rationale [ edit ] The rationale for the abaya is often attributed to the Quranic quote, "O Prophet, tell your wives and daughters, and the believing women, to cover themselves with a loose garment. They will thus be recognised and no harm will come to them" (Qur'an 33:59, translated by Ahmed Ali (/wiki/Ahmed_Ali_(writer)) ). This quotation is often given as the argument for wearing the abaya. Countries [ edit ] Outside some Arab states such as Saudi Arabia, Yemen, UAE, and Qatar, the abaya is not widely worn by Muslim women. Abaya also refers to different garments in different countries. In Arab states of the Persian Gulf (/wiki/Arab_states_of_the_Persian_Gulf) , they tend to be black in color. Saudi Arabia [ edit ] In Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Saudi_Arabia) , women were required to cover in public. [2] (#cite_note-2) However, in March 2018, the Crown Prince (/wiki/Crown_Prince_of_Saudi_Arabia) Mohammad bin Salman (/wiki/Mohammad_bin_Salman) claimed that women could choose (/wiki/Women%27s_rights_in_Saudi_Arabia) what to wear in public, provided it met certain standards, when he stated, "The decision is entirely left for women to decide what type of decent and respectful attire she chooses to wear". [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Foreign servicewomen in Saudi Arabia [ edit ] American military pilot Martha McSally (/wiki/Martha_McSally) was represented by The Rutherford Institute (/wiki/The_Rutherford_Institute) in McSally v. Rumsfeld , a successful 2001 lawsuit against the United States Department of Defense (/wiki/United_States_Department_of_Defense) , challenging the military policy that required U.S. and U.K. servicewomen stationed in Saudi Arabia to wear the abaya when traveling off base in the country. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2002, General Tommy Franks (/wiki/Tommy_Franks) , then commander of the United States Central Command (/wiki/United_States_Central_Command) , announced that U.S. military servicewomen would no longer be required to wear the abaya, although they would be "encouraged" to do so as a show of respect for local customs. Commenting on the change, Central Command spokesman Colonel Rick Thomas said it was not made because of McSally's lawsuit but had already been "under review" before the lawsuit was filed. McSally had been working to change the policy for several years and had filed the lawsuit after she had been threatened with a court martial (/wiki/Court_martial) if she did not comply. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) Also in 2002, the U.S. Congress passed legislation prohibiting anyone in the military from "requiring or encouraging servicewomen to put on abayas in Saudi Arabia or to use taxpayers' money to buy them." [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-hijab-11) United Arab Emirates [ edit ] Abayas are commonly worn in the United Arab Emirates. They often are made with fabrics such as crêpe, georgette (/wiki/Georgette_(fabric)) , and chiffon (/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) that are suited to the country’s climate. Indonesia [ edit ] The abaya in Indonesia takes on a unique style called the "jilbab." It is paired with a headscarf and is often brightly colored or patterned, reflecting the vibrant Indonesian culture. Abayas are known by various names but serve the same purpose, which is to cover. Contemporary models are usually caftans (/wiki/Caftan) , cut from light, flowing fabrics like crepe (/wiki/Crepe_(textile)) , georgette (/wiki/Georgette_(fabric)) , and chiffon (/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) . Other known styles are front open and front closed abaya. Styles differ from region to region: some abayas have embroidery on black fabric while others are brightly colored and have different forms of artwork across them. Abaya ban in French schools [ edit ] In August 2023, French education minister, Gabriel Attal (/wiki/Gabriel_Attal) , said that abayas would be banned in state schools as they breached the "principle of secularism". [12] (#cite_note-12) On 4 September, the first day of the new academic year, French schools sent 67 girls home for refusing to remove their abayas. [13] (#cite_note-13) Influence of Western fashion in abaya designs [ edit ] In the mid-20th century, the influence of Western fashion (/wiki/Western_fashion) began to permeate the Arab world. This led to a significant transformation in abaya design. While the basic silhouette remained the same, new fabrics like silk, chiffon, and lace were introduced. Designers began experimenting with colors, cuts, and styles, blending traditional elements with contemporary fashion trends. See also [ edit ] Islam portal (/wiki/Portal:Islam) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Islam and clothing (/wiki/Islam_and_clothing) Types of hijab (/wiki/Types_of_hijab) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Yarwood, Doreen (/wiki/Doreen_Yarwood) (1978). The Encyclopedia of World Costume . New York: Bonanza Books. p. 9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-517-61943-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Sanders, Eli. Interpreting veils: Meanings have changed with politics, history. (http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/news/nation-world/infocus/mideast/islam/interpreting_veils.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20091203003056/http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/news/nation-world/infocus/mideast/islam/interpreting_veils.html) December 3, 2009, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) The Seattle Times . 27 May 2003. Web. 30 Oct. 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Kalin, S. Saudi women should be able to choose whether to wear head cover or black abaya in public, says Crown Prince. Retrieved 19.03.2018 (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/middle-east/saudi-arabia-women-abaya-head-cover-crown-prince-mohammad-bin-salman-a8263446.html) ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Saudi women should have choice whether to wear abaya robe: crown..." (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-saudi-women/saudi-women-should-have-choice-whether-to-wear-abaya-robe-crown-prince-idUSKBN1GV190) U.S. Reuters Editorial . Retrieved 22 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Vojdik, Valorie (Summer 2002). "The Invisibility of Gender in War" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110306022817/https://www.law.duke.edu/shell/cite.pl?9+Duke+J.+Gender+L.+&+Pol%27y+261) . Duke Journal of Gender Law & Policy (/wiki/Duke_Journal_of_Gender_Law_%26_Policy) . 9 : 261–270. Archived from the original (http://www.law.duke.edu/shell/cite.pl?9+Duke+J.+Gender+L.+&+Pol%27y+261) on 6 March 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Mulligan, John E. (5 December 2001). "Female pilot sues US, alleging bias". Providence Journal Bulletin (/wiki/Providence_Journal_Bulletin) . p. A01. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Zhou, Li (29 August 2018). "Martha McSally is the rare Republican woman putting gender at the forefront of her campaign" (https://www.vox.com/2018/8/29/17772958/arizona-senate-primary-martha-mcsally-gender) . Vox (/wiki/Vox_(website)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200104021233/https://www.vox.com/2018/8/29/17772958/arizona-senate-primary-martha-mcsally-gender) from the original on 4 January 2020 . Retrieved 4 January 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Whitehead, John W. (2002). "No Abaya for McSally" (http://libertymagazine.org/article/no-abaya-for-mcsally) . Liberty Magazine . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200714095959/http://libertymagazine.org/article/no-abaya-for-mcsally) from the original on 14 July 2020 . Retrieved 22 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Pound, Edward T. (24 April 2001). "Saudi rule looser than Pentagon's" (https://www.usatoday.com/news/washington/2001-04-24-mcsally.htm) . USA Today . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110629103927/http://www.usatoday.com/news/washington/2001-04-24-mcsally.htm) from the original on 29 June 2011 . Retrieved 18 July 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "H.R.4546 - Bob Stump National Defense Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2003" (https://www.congress.gov/bill/107th-congress/house-bill/4546) . United States Congress . 2 December 2002. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200108222451/https://www.congress.gov/bill/107th-congress/house-bill/4546) from the original on 8 January 2020 . Retrieved 12 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-hijab_11-0) De Wind, Dorian (February 21, 2011). "Should our Servicewomen in Afghanistan Have to Wear Headscarves?" (http://themoderatevoice.com/102140/should-our-servicewomen-in-afghanistan-have-to-wear-headscarves) . The Moderate Voice. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110429084951/http://themoderatevoice.com/102140/should-our-servicewomen-in-afghanistan-have-to-wear-headscarves/) from the original on April 29, 2011 . Retrieved July 16, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Chrisafis, Angelique (28 August 2023). "France to ban girls from wearing abayas in state schools" (https://www.theguardian.com/world/2023/aug/28/france-to-ban-girls-from-wearing-abayas-in-state-schools) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 6 September 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) AFP (5 September 2023). "French schools send home dozens of girls wearing Muslim abayas" (https://www.theguardian.com/world/2023/sep/05/french-schools-send-home-dozens-of-girls-wearing-muslim-abayas) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 6 September 2023 . External links [ edit ] Kaur-Jones, Priya. " Reinventing the Saudi abaya (https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-13372186) ." BBC (/wiki/BBC) . 12 May 2011. History of Abaya. " History of Abaya (https://web.archive.org/web/20131111225614/http://www.alhamaidi.com/the-history-of-the-abaya) ." Islamic website of the Quran. " [1] (https://quran.com/en/al-ahzab/59) ." Aqila.ng The History and Evolution of Abaya (https://www.aqila.ng/history-and-evolution-of-abaya-fashion/4560/) v t e Folk costumes (/wiki/Folk_costume) Africa (/wiki/Clothing_in_Africa) Balgha (/wiki/Balgha) Boubou (/wiki/Agbada) Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) Djellaba (/wiki/Djellaba) Head tie (/wiki/Head_tie) Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) Litham (/wiki/Litham) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Senegalese kaftan (/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan) Tagelmust (/wiki/Tagelmust) Wrapper (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) Asia Central Afghanistan (/wiki/Pashtun_clothing) Pakol (/wiki/Pakol) Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) East China (/wiki/Chinese_clothing) Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) Tangzhuang (/wiki/Tangzhuang) Japan (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) Hachimaki (/wiki/Hachimaki) Kimono (/wiki/Kimono) Obi (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) Korea 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(/wiki/Kemben) Kupiah (/wiki/Kupiah) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tanjak (/wiki/Tengkolok) Ulos (/wiki/Ulos) Laos (/wiki/Culture_of_Laos#Traditional_clothing) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits) Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tengkolok (/wiki/Tengkolok) Philippines (/wiki/Fashion_and_clothing_in_the_Philippines) Barong tagalog (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) Baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) Buntal hat (/wiki/Buntal_hat) Malong (/wiki/Malong) Maria Clara gown (/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown) Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Thailand (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Banong (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Banong) Chong kraben (/wiki/Chong_kraben) Chut Thai (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Formal Chut Thai (/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume) Pha khao ma (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Pha_khao_ma) Pha nung (/wiki/Pha_nung) Raj pattern (/wiki/Raj_pattern) Sabai (/wiki/Sabai) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Tabengman (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Tabengman) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Áo bà ba (/wiki/%C3%81o_b%C3%A0_ba) Áo dài (/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i) Áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) Áo tứ thân (/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BB%A9_th%C3%A2n) Middle East Abaya Agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Assyria (/wiki/Assyrian_clothing) Bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Izaar (/wiki/Izaar) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Kippah (/wiki/Kippah) Sheitel (/wiki/Sheitel) Tallit (/wiki/Tallit) Tallit katan (/wiki/Tallit_katan) Tefillin (/wiki/Tefillin) Tzitzit (/wiki/Tzitzit) Jilbāb (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) Keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Kurdish (/wiki/Kurdish_clothing) Niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Palestine (/wiki/Palestinian_costumes) Pandama (/wiki/Pandama) Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Hejazi (/wiki/Hejazi_turban) Europe Balkan Traditional Albanian clothing (/wiki/Traditional_Albanian_clothing) Brez (/wiki/Brez_(clothing)) Çorape (/wiki/%C3%87orape) Opinga (/wiki/Opinga) Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) Xhamadan (/wiki/Xhamadan) Xhubleta (/wiki/Xhubleta) Aromanian (/w/index.php?title=Aromanian_traditional_clothing&action=edit&redlink=1) Croatia (/wiki/Croatian_national_costume) Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) Greek (/wiki/Greek_dress) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Macedonia (/wiki/Macedonian_national_costume) Romania (/wiki/Romanian_dress) Serbia (/wiki/Serbian_traditional_clothing) Kosovo (/wiki/Traditional_clothing_of_Kosovo) British Isles Britain Country (/wiki/British_country_clothing) Court (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) Windsor uniform (/wiki/Windsor_uniform) Ireland (/wiki/Irish_clothing) Scottish highlands (/wiki/Highland_dress) Aboyne 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(/wiki/Barretina) Cachirulo (/wiki/Cachirulo) Cordovan hat (/wiki/Cordovan_hat) Sombrero de catite (/wiki/Sombrero_de_catite) Mantilla (/wiki/Mantilla) Italy Ciocia (/wiki/Ciocia) Coppola cap (/wiki/Coppola_cap) Scandinavian Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) Iceland (/wiki/Icelandic_national_costume) Sweden (/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#Folk_costuming) Nationella dräkten (/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten) Bäckadräkten (/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten) Sverigedräkten (/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1) South America Aguayo (/wiki/Aguayo_(cloth)) Chile Chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) Chilote cap (/wiki/Chilote_cap) Chilote poncho (/wiki/Chilote_poncho) Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) Liqui liqui (/wiki/Liqui_liqui) Lliklla (/wiki/Lliklla) Panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Ruana (/wiki/Ruana) North America Inuit skin clothing (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Tignon (/wiki/Tignon) Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) Western wear (/wiki/Western_wear) Bolo tie (/wiki/Bolo_tie) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) Mexico Huarache (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) Mexican pointy boots (/wiki/Mexican_pointy_boots) Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) Serape (/wiki/Serape) Sombrero (/wiki/Sombrero) Quechquemitl (/wiki/Quechquemitl) Oceania Grass skirt (/wiki/Grass_skirt) Feather cloak (/wiki/Feather_cloak) I-sala (/wiki/I-sala) Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) Lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) Kiekie (/wiki/Kiekie_(clothing)) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Sulu (/wiki/Sulu_(skirt)) Taʻovala (/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala) Tēfui (/wiki/T%C4%93fui) Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) İslâm Ansiklopedisi (https://islamansiklopedisi.org.tr/aba--elbise) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7cd59cdcfb‐s2gb7 Cached time: 20240717223832 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.524 seconds Real time usage: 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Traditional tube-sleeved Japanese coat For the Bollywood film, see Happi (film) (/wiki/Happi_(film)) . Not to be confused with Happy (/wiki/Happy_(disambiguation)) or Hapi (/wiki/Hapi_(disambiguation)) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Happi) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Happi" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Happi%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Happi%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Happi%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Happi%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Happi%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Happi%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( December 2009 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Women at a festival (/wiki/Japanese_festivals) wearing a happi Edward, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Prince_of_Wales) (centre), later Edward VIII (/wiki/Edward_VIII) of the United Kingdom, wearing a happi A happi ( 法被/半被 ) is a traditional tube-sleeved Japanese (/wiki/Japan) coat (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) , usually worn only during festivals (/wiki/Japanese_festivals) . Happi typically feature symbols and/or text on the lapels, with a larger design on the back of the coat, typically the name or the festival or the participating association; the kanji (/wiki/Kanji) for ('festival' ( 祭り , matsuri ) ) may also be present. Originally worn for display of the mon (/wiki/Mon_(emblem)) , or family emblem, happi were worn by house servants (/wiki/House_servant) as a uniform. Firefighters (/wiki/Firefighter) also wore happi coats, with the crest on the back of the coat displaying the group with which they were associated; [1] (#cite_note-1) these were distinct from the hikeshi sashiko banten (/wiki/Hanten) ( lit. ' embroidered fireman's jacket ' ) also worn by firefighters, constructed from heavily-quilted cotton layers designed to hold a large quantity of water and thus protect the wearer. In the Edo period (/wiki/Edo_period) , firefighters were paid not only for actual firefighting activity but also for promptness and presence at the scene of a fire. Thus, wearing conspicuous happi and dancing on intact roofs near fires with matoi (/wiki/Matoi) was essential for them. [ citation needed ] In English, the term happi is most often translated as "happi coat" or "happy coat". Happi are typically blue, with designs in red, black, and white, though variations with a number of different colours are also seen in modern day Japan. Modern happi coats may be made of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) or polyester (/wiki/Polyester) fabrics. References [ edit ] Japan portal (/wiki/Portal:Japan) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) ^ (#cite_ref-1) Drazen, Patrick. Anime explosion!: the what? why? & wow! of Japanese animation . Stone Bridge Press, 2003. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-880656-72-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-880656-72-8) . Page 322 (https://books.google.com/books?id=wkrgvKvsvYAC&pg=PA322) . "In time, these groups of fire-fighters, adopting uniforms consisting of the short jackets called happi emblazoned with the mon (crest) of the particular group, so that one gang could be distinguished from another." v t e Japanese clothing (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) List of items traditionally worn in Japan (/wiki/List_of_items_traditionally_worn_in_Japan) Traditional Chihaya (/wiki/Chihaya_(clothing)) Fundoshi (/wiki/Fundoshi) Furisode (/wiki/Furisode) Hanten (/wiki/Hanten) Hakama (/wiki/Hakama) Haori (/wiki/Haori) Happi Jinbei (/wiki/Jinbei) Jōe (/wiki/J%C5%8De) Jūnihitoe (/wiki/J%C5%ABnihitoe) Keikogi (/wiki/Keikogi) Kosode (/wiki/Kosode) Kimono (/wiki/Kimono) Kyahan (/wiki/Kyahan) Mawashi (/wiki/Mawashi) Mino (/wiki/Mino_(straw_cape)) Nemaki (/wiki/Nemaki) Samue (/wiki/Samue) Shitagi (/wiki/Shitagi) Sokutai (/wiki/Sokutai) Uwagi (/wiki/Uwagi) Yukata (/wiki/Yukata) Headgear Benkan (/wiki/Benkan) Hachimaki (/wiki/Hachimaki) Kanmuri (/wiki/Kanmuri_(headwear)) Kanzashi (/wiki/Kanzashi) Kasa (/wiki/Kasa_(hat)) Raikan (/wiki/Raikan) Shaguma (/wiki/Shaguma) Tenugui (/wiki/Tenugui) Tokin (/wiki/Tokin_(headwear)) Tsunokakushi (/wiki/Tsunokakushi) Belt / sash Obi (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) Uwa-obi (/wiki/Uwa-obi) Tasuki (/wiki/Tasuki_(sash)) Footwear Geta (/wiki/Geta_(footwear)) Jika-tabi (/wiki/Jika-tabi) Okobo (/wiki/Okobo) Tabi (/wiki/Tabi) Uwabaki (/wiki/Uwabaki) Waraji (/wiki/Waraji) Zōri (/wiki/Z%C5%8Dri) This article related to the culture of Japan is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Happi&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐2f6xp Cached time: 20240713174733 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.523 seconds Real time usage: 0.665 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1448/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 46187/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1368/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 19954/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.382/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 16700618/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 615.838 1 -total 26.75% 164.715 53 Template:Transliteration 26.04% 160.376 1 Template:Japanese_clothing 25.60% 157.640 1 Template:Navbox 11.28% 69.489 1 Template:Short_description 10.60% 65.298 1 Template:Reflist 10.25% 63.106 1 Template:Refimprove 9.33% 57.485 1 Template:Ambox 8.25% 50.836 1 Template:ISBN 6.97% 42.894 1 Template:Catalog_lookup_link Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1007391-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713174733 and revision id 1229609003. 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Measurement scale indicating the fitting size of a shoe This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Shoe_size) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Shoe size" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Shoe+size%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Shoe+size%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Shoe+size%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Shoe+size%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Shoe+size%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Shoe+size%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( April 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) A soldier recruit measuring for shoe size during uniform issue at the Afghan National Army training site in Kabul, Afghanistan, 2002 A shoe size is an indication of the fitting size of a shoe (/wiki/Shoe) for a person. There are a number of different shoe-size systems used worldwide. While all shoe sizes use a number to indicate the length of the shoe, they differ in exactly what they measure, what unit of measurement they use, and where the size 0 (or 1) is positioned. Some systems also indicate the shoe width, sometimes also as a number, but in many cases by one or more letters. Some regions use different shoe-size systems for different types of shoes (e.g. men's, women's, children's, sport, and safety shoes). This article sets out several complexities in the definition of shoe sizes. In practice, shoes are often tried on for both size and fit before they are purchased. Deriving the shoe size [ edit ] Foot versus shoe and last [ edit ] The length of a person's foot (/wiki/Foot) is commonly defined as the distance between two parallel (/wiki/Parallel_(geometry)) lines that are perpendicular (/wiki/Perpendicular) to the foot and in contact with the most prominent toe (/wiki/Toe) and the most prominent part of the heel (/wiki/Heel) . Foot length is measured with the subject standing barefoot and the weight of the body equally distributed between both feet. The sizes of the left and right feet are often slightly different. In this case, both feet are measured, and purchasers of mass-produced shoes are advised to purchase a shoe size based on the larger foot, as most retailers do not sell pairs of shoes in non-matching sizes. Each size of shoe is considered suitable for a small interval of foot lengths, typically limited by half-point of the shoe size system. A shoe-size system can refer to three characteristic lengths: The median length of feet for which a shoe is suitable. For customers, this measure has the advantage of being directly related to their body measures. It applies equally to any type, form, or material of shoe. However, this measure is less popular with manufacturers, [ citation needed ] because it requires them to test carefully for each new shoe model, for which range of foot sizes it is recommendable. It puts on the manufacturer the burden of ensuring that the shoe will fit a foot of a given length. The length of the inner cavity of the shoe. This measure has the advantage that it can be measured easily on the finished product. However, it will vary with manufacturing tolerances and only gives the customer very crude information about the range of foot sizes for which the shoe is suitable. The length of the " last (/wiki/Last) " , the foot-shaped template over which the shoe is manufactured. This measure is the easiest one for the manufacturer to use, because it identifies only the tool used to produce the shoe. It makes no promise about manufacturing tolerances or for what size of foot the shoe is actually suitable. It leaves all responsibility and risk of choosing the correct size with the customer. Further, the last can be measured in several different ways, resulting in different measurements. [1] (#cite_note-orthopedic-1) All these measures differ substantially from one another for the same shoe. For example, the inner cavity of a shoe must typically be 15 mm longer than the foot, and the shoe last would be 2 size points larger than the foot, but this varies between different types of shoes and the shoe size system used. The typical range lies between 1 ⁄ 2 to 2 ⁄ 3 inch (12.7 to 16.9 mm) for the UK/US size system and 4 ⁄ 3 to 5 ⁄ 3 cm (13.3 to 16.7 mm) for the European size system, but may extend to 1 ⁄ 4 to 3 ⁄ 4 inch (6.4 to 19.1 mm) and 2 ⁄ 3 to 6 ⁄ 3 cm (6.7 to 20.0 mm). Length [ edit ] Sizing systems also differ in the units of measurement they use. This also results in different increments between shoe sizes, because usually only "full" or "half" sizes are made. The following length units are commonly used today to define shoe-size systems: [ citation needed ] The Paris point (/wiki/Paris_point) equates to 2 ⁄ 3 centimetre (6.67 mm; 0.26 in). Whole sizes are incremented by 1 Paris point; this corresponds to 3.33 millimetres (0.131 in) between half sizes. This unit is commonly used in Continental Europe, and Russia and former USSR countries. The barleycorn (/wiki/Barleycorn_(unit)) is an old English unit (/wiki/English_unit) that equates to 1 ⁄ 3 inch (8.47 mm). This is the basis for current UK and North American shoe sizes. "Today in America, the sizing generally adheres relatively closely to a formula of 3 times the length of the foot in inches (the barleycorn length), less a constant (22 for men and 21 for women). In the UK, shoe sizes follow a similar method of computation, except that the constant is 23, and it is the same for men and women". [2] (#cite_note-Melissa-2) Metric (/wiki/Metric_system) measurements in millimetres (mm) or centimetres (cm), with intervals of 5 mm and 7.5 mm are used in the international Mondopoint system (USSR/Russia and East Asia). Since the early 2000s, labels on sports shoes (/wiki/Sports_shoes) typically include sizes measured in all four systems: EU, UK, US, and Mondopoint. Zero point [ edit ] The sizing systems also place size 0 (or 1) at different locations: Size 0 as a foot's length of 0. The shoe size is directly proportional to the length of the foot in the chosen unit of measurement. Sizes of children's, men's, and women's shoes, as well as sizes of different types of shoes, can be compared directly. This is used with the Mondopoint system (USSR/Russia and East Asia). Size 0 as the length of the shoe's inner cavity of 0. The shoe size is then directly proportional to the inner length of the shoe. This is used with systems that also take the measurement from the shoe. While sizes of children's, men's and women's shoes can be compared directly, this is not necessarily true for different types of shoes that require a different amount of "wiggle room" in the toe box. This is used with the Continental European system. Size 0 (or 1) can just be simply a shoe of a given length. Typically, this will be the shortest length deemed practical; but this can be different for children's, teenagers', men's, and women's shoes - making it difficult to compare sizes. In America, the baseline for women's shoes is seven inches and for men's it is 7 1 / 3 in.; in the UK, the baseline for both is 7 2 / 3 in. [2] (#cite_note-Melissa-2) Width [ edit ] Some systems also include the width of a foot (or the girth of a shoe last), but do so in a variety of ways: Measured foot width in millimetres (mm) - this is done with the Mondopoint (#Mondopoint) system. Measured width as a letter (or combination of letters), which is taken from a table (indexed to length and width/girth) or just assigned on an ad-hoc basis. Examples are (each starting with the narrowest width): AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EE, EEE is the typical North American system and follows the brannock device (/wiki/Brannock_device) standards, per the system B is narrow, C is regular, D is medium, E is wide, EE is extra wide and so on. The unlettered D size is the norm for men and B for women. 4A, 3A, 2A, A, B, C, D, E, 2E, 3E, 4E, 5E, 6E (variant North American). C, D, E, F, G, H (common UK; "medium" is usually F but varies by manufacturer—makers Edward Green (/wiki/Edward_Green_Shoes) and Crockett & Jones, among others, use E instead, but one maker's E is not necessarily the same size as another's). N ( narrow ), M ( medium ) or R ( regular ), W ( wide ), XW (extra wide). For children's sizes in North America, typical letters used are M or B (medium), W or D (wide), EW or 2E (extra wide). The width for which these sizes are suitable can vary significantly between manufacturers. The A–E width indicators used by most American, Canadian, and some British shoe manufacturers are typically based on the width of the foot, and common step sizes are 3 ⁄ 16 inch (4.8 mm). Foot Width Conversion - approximation [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) N-M-R-W system North American system North American variant UK system German system SS (super slim) AAAA 4A S (slim) AAA 3A N (narrow) AA 2A B ("narrow") E ("very slim") N (narrow) A A C E M (medium) B B D ("Standard") F ("slim") M (medium) C C D F R (regular) D D D F W (wide) E E E ("Wide") G ("comfort") XW/EW (extra wide) / WW (wide wide) EE 2E EE H ("strong") UW (ultra wide) / WWW EEE 3E EEE J ("super wide") UW (ultra wide) / WWW EEEE 4E K XXW (extra extra wide) EEEEE 5E L XXW (extra extra wide) EEEEEE 6E M Difficulties [ edit ] There could be differences between various shoe size tables from shoemakers and shoe stores. They are usually due to the following factors: Different methods of measuring the shoes, different manufacturing processes, or different allowances [1] (#cite_note-orthopedic-1) even when the same system is used. An indication in centimetres or inches can mean the length of the foot or the length of the shoe's inner cavity. Differing amounts of wiggle room required for different sizes of shoes. For wide feet, a shoe several sizes larger (and actually too long) may be required and may also result in inconsistent size indications when different typical widths are attributed to specific shoe sizing systems. Some tables for children take future growth into account. The shoe size is then larger than what would correspond to the actual length of the foot. [7] (#cite_note-brannock2-7) Conversion tables available on the Web often contain obvious errors, not taking into account different zero points or wiggle room. Although shoe size systems are not fully standardised, the ISO/TC 137 had released a technical specification ISO/TS 19407:2015 (#ISO_19407_and_shoe_size_conversion) for converting shoe sizes across various local sizing systems. Even though the problem of converting shoe sizes accurately has yet to be fully resolved, this standard serves as "a good compromise solution" for shoe-buyers. [8] (#cite_note-:0-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) Common sizing systems [ edit ] United Kingdom [ edit ] Shoe size in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) , Ireland (/wiki/Republic_of_Ireland) , India (/wiki/India) , Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) and South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) is based on the length of the last (/wiki/Last) used to make the shoes, measured in barleycorns (/wiki/Barleycorn_(unit)) ( 1 ⁄ 3 inch) starting from the smallest size deemed practical, which is called size zero. It is not formally standardised. The last is typically longer than the foot heel to toe length by 1 ⁄ 2 to 2 ⁄ 3 in or 1 + 1 ⁄ 2 to 2 barleycorns, so to determine the shoe size based on actual foot length one must add 2 barleycorns. A child's size zero is equivalent to 4 inches (a hand (/wiki/Hand_(unit)) = 12 barleycorns = 10.16 cm), and the sizes go up to size 13 + 1 ⁄ 2 (measuring 25 + 1 ⁄ 2 barleycorns, or 8 + 1 ⁄ 2 inches (21.59 cm)). Thus, the calculation for a children's shoe size in the UK is: child shoe size (barleycorns) = 3 × last length (in) − 12 equivalent to: child shoe size (barleycorns) ≈ 3 × foot length (in) − 10 . An adult size one is then the next size up (26 barleycorns, or 8 + 2 ⁄ 3 in (22.01 cm)) and each size up continues the progression in barleycorns. [10] (#cite_note-10) The calculation for an adult shoe size in the UK is thus: adult shoe size (barleycorns) = 3 × last length (in) − 25 equivalent to: adult shoe size (barleycorns) ≈ 3 × foot length (in) − 23 . Although this sizing standard is nominally for both men and women, some manufacturers use different numbering for women's UK sizing. In Australia (/wiki/Australia) and New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) , the UK system is followed for men and children's footwear. Women's footwear follows the US sizings. In Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) , shoes are sized either according to the foot length they are intended to fit, in cm, or alternatively to another variation of the barleycorn system, with sizes calculated approximately as: adult shoe size (barleycorns) = 3 × last length (in) − 25 + 1 ⁄ 2 equivalent to: adult shoe size (barleycorns) ≈ 3 × foot length (in) − 23 + 1 ⁄ 2 . United States [ edit ] In the United States (/wiki/United_States) and Canada (/wiki/Canada) , the traditional system is similar to British but there are different zero points for children's, men's, and women's shoe sizes. The most common is the customary system where men's shoes are one size longer than the UK equivalent, making a men's 13 in the US the same size as a men's 12 in the UK. Customary [ edit ] The customary system is offset by 1 ⁄ 4 barleycorn, or 1 ⁄ 12 in (2.12 mm), comparing to the UK sizes. The men's range starts at size 1, with zero point corresponding to the children's size 13 which equals 24 + 3 ⁄ 4 barleycorns or 8 + 1 ⁄ 4 inches (20.96 cm). However, most US manufacturers are using greater offsets, such as 1 ⁄ 2 and 1 barleycorns. [11] (#cite_note-Besching170-11) Therefore in current practice, US men's size 1 equals 25 barleycorns, or 8 + 1 ⁄ 3 in (21.17 cm), so the calculation for a male shoe size in the United States is: male shoe size (barleycorns) = 3 × last length (in) − 24 equivalent to: male shoe size (barleycorns) ≈ 3 × foot length (in) − 22 . In the "standard" or "FIA" (Footwear Industries of America) scale, women's sizes are men's sizes plus 1 (so a men's 10 + 1 ⁄ 2 is a women's 11 + 1 ⁄ 2 ): female shoe size (barleycorns) = 3 × last length (in) − 23 equivalent to: female shoe size (barleycorns) ≈ 3 × foot length (in) − 21 . There is also the "common" scale, where women's sizes are equal to men's sizes plus 1 + 1 ⁄ 2 . Children's shoes start from size zero, which is equivalent to 3 + 11 ⁄ 12 inches ( 11 + 3 ⁄ 4 barleycorns = 99.48 mm), and end at 13 + 1 ⁄ 2 . Thus the formula for children's sizes in the US is child shoe size (barleycorns) = 3 × last length (in) − 11 3 ⁄ 4 equivalent to: child shoe size (barleycorns) ≈ 3 × foot length (in) − 9 3 ⁄ 4 . Alternatively, a Mondopoint-based scale running from K4 to K13 and then 1 to 7 is in use. [12] (#cite_note-12) K4 to K9 are toddler (/wiki/Toddler) sizes, K10 to K13 are pre-school (/wiki/Pre-school) and 1 to 7 are grade school (/wiki/Grade_school) sizes. Brannock Device [ edit ] Main article: Brannock device (/wiki/Brannock_device) Drawing of a Brannock Device (/wiki/Brannock_Device) (from US Patent (/wiki/United_States_patent_law) 1,725,334) The Brannock Device (/wiki/Brannock_Device) is a measuring instrument invented by Charles F. Brannock (/wiki/Charles_F._Brannock) in 1925 and now found in many shoe stores. The recent formula used by the Brannock device assumes a foot length of 2 barleycorns less than the length of the last; thus, men's size 1 is equivalent to a last's length of 8 + 1 ⁄ 3 in (21.17 cm) and foot's length of 7 + 2 ⁄ 3 in (19.47 cm), and children's size 1 is equivalent to 4 + 1 ⁄ 4 in (10.8 cm) last's length and 3 + 7 ⁄ 12 in (9.1 cm) foot's length. [13] (#cite_note-brannock-13) [14] (#cite_note-brannockChart-14) The device also measures the length of the arch, or the distance between the heel and the ball (metatarsal head) of the foot. For this measurement, the device has a shorter scale at the instep of the foot with an indicator that slides into position. If this scale indicates a larger size, it is taken in place of the foot's length to ensure proper fitting. [7] (#cite_note-brannock2-7) For children's sizes, additional wiggle room is added to allow for growth. [7] (#cite_note-brannock2-7) The device also measures the width of the foot and assigns it designations of AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EE, or EEE. The widths are 3 ⁄ 16 inches apart and differ by shoe length. [13] (#cite_note-brannock-13) Some shoe stores and medical professionals use optical 3D surface scanners to precisely measure the length and width of both feet and recommend the appropriate shoe model and size. [15] (#cite_note-15) Continental Europe [ edit ] In the Continental European system, the shoe size is the length of the last (/wiki/Last) , expressed in Paris points (/wiki/Paris_point) or 2 ⁄ 3 cm (6.67 mm), for both sexes and for adults and children alike. The last is typically longer than the foot heel to toe length by 4 ⁄ 3 cm (13.33 mm) to 5 ⁄ 3 cm (16.67 mm), or 2 to 2 + 1 ⁄ 2 Paris points, so to determine the shoe size based on actual foot length one must add 2 Paris points. Because a Paris point is 2 ⁄ 3 of a centimetre, a centimetre is 3 ⁄ 2 Paris points, and the formula is as follows: shoe size (Paris points) = 3 ⁄ 2 × last length (cm) equivalent to: shoe size (Paris points) ≈ ( 3 ⁄ 2 × foot length (cm)) + 2 The Continental European system is used in Austria (/wiki/Austria) , Belgium (/wiki/Belgium) , Denmark (/wiki/Denmark) , France (/wiki/France) , Germany (/wiki/Germany) , [16] (#cite_note-16) Italy (/wiki/Italy) , Luxembourg (/wiki/Luxembourg) , the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) , Norway (/wiki/Norway) , Poland (/wiki/Poland) , Portugal (/wiki/Portugal) , Spain (/wiki/Spain) , [17] (#cite_note-17) Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) , Switzerland (/wiki/Switzerland) , and most other continental European countries. It is also used in Middle Eastern countries (such as Iran (/wiki/Iran) ), Brazil (/wiki/Brazil) —which uses the same method but subtracts 2 from the final result, in effect measuring foot size instead of last size [ citation needed ] —and, commonly, Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) . The system is sometimes described as Stich size (from Pariser Stich , the German name for the Paris point), or Stichmaß size (from a German name of a micrometer (/wiki/Bore_gauge) for internal measurements). Mondopoint [ edit ] Measurement of foot length, width and perimeter (cirсumference) as defined in the Mondopoint standard The Mondopoint shoe length system is widely used in the sports industry to size athletic shoes, ski boots, skates, and pointe ballet shoes (/wiki/Pointe_shoe) ; it was also adopted as the primary shoe sizing system in the Soviet Union (/wiki/Soviet_Union) , [18] (#cite_note-18) Russia (/wiki/Russia) , [19] (#cite_note-19) East Germany (/wiki/East_Germany) , China (/wiki/China) , [20] (#cite_note-20) Japan (/wiki/Japan) , Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) , and South Korea (/wiki/South_Korea) , and as an optional system in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) , [21] (#cite_note-21) India (/wiki/India) , [22] (#cite_note-22) Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) , and European countries. The Mondopoint system is also used by NATO (/wiki/NATO) and other military services. The Mondopoint system was introduced in the 1970s by International Standard ISO 2816:1973 "Fundamental characteristics of a system of shoe sizing to be known as Mondopoint" and ISO 3355:1975 "Shoe sizes – System of length grading (for use in the Mondopoint system)". [23] (#cite_note-23) ISO 9407:2019, "Shoe sizes—Mondopoint system of sizing and marking", [24] (#cite_note-24) is the current version of the standard. The Mondopoint system is based on average foot length and foot width for which the shoe is suitable, measured in millimetres. The length of the foot is measured as horizontal distance between the perpendiculars in contact with the end of the most prominent toe and the most prominent part of the heel. The width of the foot is measured as horizontal distance between vertical lines in contact with the first and fifth metatarsophalangeal joints (/wiki/Metatarsophalangeal_joints) . The perimeter of the foot is the length of the foot circumference, measured with a flexible tape at the same points as foot width. The origin of the grade is zero. The labeling typically includes foot length, followed by an optional foot width: a shoe size of 280/110 indicates a foot length of 280 millimetres (11.0 in) and width of 110 millimetres (4.3 in). Other customary markings, such as EU, UK and US sizes, may also be used. Because Mondopoint takes the foot width into account, it allows for better fitting than most other systems. A given shoe size shall fit every foot with indicated average measurements, and those differing by no more than a half-step of the corresponding interval grid. Standard foot lengths are defined with interval steps of 5 mm for casual footwear and steps of 7.5 mm for specialty (protective) footwear. The standard is maintained by ISO Technical Committee 137 "Footwear sizing designations and marking systems." East Asia [ edit ] In Japan, mainland China, Taiwan, and South Korea, the Mondopoint system is used as defined by national standard Japanese Industrial Standards (/wiki/Japanese_Industrial_Standards) (JIS) S 5037:1998 and its counterparts Guobiao (/wiki/Guobiao_standards) (GB/T) 3293.1-1998, Chinese National Standard (/wiki/Chinese_National_Standard) (CNS) 4800-S1093:2000 and Korean Standards Association (/wiki/Korean_Standards_Association) (KS) M 6681:2007. Foot length and girth (foot circumference) are taken into account. [25] (#cite_note-japan-25) The foot length is indicated in centimetres; an increment of 5 mm is used. The length is followed by designators for girth (A, B, C, D, E, EE, EEE, EEEE, F, G), which are specified in an indexed table as foot circumference in millimetres for each given foot length; foot width is also included as supplemental information. There are different tables for men's, women's, and children's (less than 12 years of age) shoes. Not all designators are used for all genders and in all countries. For example, the largest girth for women in Taiwan is EEEE, whereas in Japan, it is F. The foot length and width can also be indicated in millimetres, separated by a slash or a hyphen. Soviet Union (Russia, Commonwealth of Independent States) [ edit ] Historically the Soviet Union (/wiki/Soviet_Union) used the European (Paris point) system, but the Mondopoint metric system was introduced in the 1980s by GOST 24382-80 "Sizes of Sport Shoes" (based on ISO 2816:1973) and GOST 11373-88 "Shoe Sizes" (based on ISO 3355:1975), and lately by GOST R 58149-2018 (based on ISO 9407:1991) Standard metric foot sizes can be converted to the nearest Paris point ( 2 ⁄ 3 cm) sizes using approximate conversion tables; shoes are marked with both foot length in millimetres, as for pointe ballet shoe (/wiki/Pointe_shoe) sizes, and last length in European Paris point sizes (although such converted Stichmaß sizes may come 1 ⁄ 2 to 1 size smaller than comparable European-made adult footwear, and up to 1 + 1 ⁄ 2 sizes smaller for children's footwear, according to ISO 19407 shoe size definitions). Foot lengths are aligned to 5 mm intervals for sports and casual shoes, and 7.5 mm for protective/safety shoes. Optional foot width designations includes narrow, normal (medium or regular), and wide grades. Infant sizes start at 16 (95 mm) and pre-school kids at 23 (140 mm); schoolchildren sizes span 32 (202.5 mm) to 40 (255 mm) for girls and 32 to 44 (285 mm) for boys. Adult sizes span 33 (210 mm) to 44 for women and 38 (245 mm) to 48 (310 mm) for men. GOST 11373-88 shoe size conversion Mondopoint/foot length (mm) Stichmaß size 5.0 7.5 Infants Pre-school children 95 16 — 100 16.5 105 17 110 18 115 19 120 19.5 125 20 130 21 135 22 140 22.5 145 — 23 150 24 155 25 160 25.5 165 26 170 27 172.5 27.5 175 28 180 180 28.5 185 29 187.5 29.5 190 30 195 195 31 200 31.5 (5 mm and 7.5 mm steps) Mondopoint/foot length (mm) Stichmaß size 5.0 7.5 Girls Boys Women Men 202.5 32 — — 205 210 210 33 215 34 217.5 34.5 220 225 225 35 230 36 232.5 36.5 235 37 240 240 37.5 245 38 247.5 38.5 250 39 255 255 40 260 — 40.5 262.5 41 265 270 270 42 275 43 277.5 280 43.5 285 285 — 44 290 — 45 292.5 45.5 295 46 300 300 46.5 305 47 307.5 47.5 310 48 ISO 19407 and shoe size conversion [ edit ] ISO/TS 19407:2023 Footwear - Sizing - Conversion of sizing systems is a technical specification from the International Organization for Standardization (/wiki/International_Organization_for_Standardization) . [1] (https://www.iso.org/standard/83106.html) It contains basic description and conversion tables for major shoe sizing systems [8] (#cite_note-:0-8) including Mondopoint with length steps of 5 mm and 7.5 mm, European Paris point system, and UK 1 ⁄ 3 -inch system. The standard has also been adopted as Russian GOST R 57425-2017. The standard is maintained by ISO/TC 137, which also developed ISO/TS 19408:2015 Footwear - Sizing - Vocabulary and terminology ; in development are companion standards ISO/TS 19409 "Footwear - Sizing - Measurement of last dimensions" and ISO/TS 19410 "Footwear - Sizing - Inshoe measurement". Shoe sizing [ edit ] The adult shoe sizes are calculated from typical last length, which is converted from foot length in millimetres by adding an allowance of two shoe sizes: EUR shoe size = L + 2 × × 6.66 6 ¯ ¯ 6.6 6 ¯ ¯ = 3 20 × × L + 2 UK shoe size = L + 2 × × 8.4 6 ¯ ¯ 8.4 6 ¯ ¯ − − 25 = 3 25.4 × × L − − 23 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}{\text{EUR shoe size}}&={\frac {L+2\times {6.66{\bar {6}}}}{6.6{\bar {6}}}}={\frac {3}{20}}\times {L}+2\\[3pt]{\text{UK shoe size}}&={\frac {L+2\times {8.4{\bar {6}}}}{8.4{\bar {6}}}}-25={\frac {3}{25.4}}\times {L}-23\end{aligned}}} where L is foot length in millimetres. Direct conversion between adult UK, Continental European and Mondopoint shoe size systems is derived as follows: L = 20 3 × × ( EUR shoe size − − 2 ) = 25.4 3 × × ( UK shoe size + 23 ) EUR shoe size = 1.27 × × ( UK shoe size + 23 ) + 2 UK shoe size = EUR shoe size − − 2 1.27 − − 23 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}L&={\frac {20}{3}}\times \left({\text{EUR shoe size}}-2\right)={\frac {25.4}{3}}\times \left({\text{UK shoe size}}+23\right)\\[3pt]{\text{EUR shoe size}}&={1.27\times \left({\text{UK shoe size}}+23\right)}+2\\[3pt]{\text{UK shoe size}}&={\frac {{\text{EUR shoe size}}-2}{1.27}}-23\end{aligned}}} Using these formulas, the standard derives shoe size tables for adults and children, based on actual foot length measurement (insole) in millimetres. Typical last length ranges are also included (13 to 25 mm over foot length for adults, 8% greater than foot length plus 6 mm for children). Exact foot lengths may contain repeating decimals (/wiki/Repeating_decimal) because the formulas include division by 3; in practice, approximate interval steps of 6.67 mm and 8.47 mm are used, and sizes are rounded to either the nearest half size or closest matching Mondopoint size. Adults' shoe sizes Foot length Mondopoint EUR UK US (mm) (cm) (inch) 5.0 mm 7.5 mm 6. 67 mm 8.4 6 mm 0. 3 inch 210.0 210 210 33.5 211. 6 8 + 1 ⁄ 3 2 3 213. 3 21 + 1 ⁄ 3 34 215.0 215 215.9 8 + 1 ⁄ 2 2.5 3.5 216. 6 21 + 2 ⁄ 3 34.5 217.5 217.5 220.0 22 220 35 220.1 3 8 + 2 ⁄ 3 3 4 223. 3 22 + 1 ⁄ 3 35.5 224.3 6 8 + 5 ⁄ 6 3.5 4.5 225.0 225 225 226. 6 22 + 2 ⁄ 3 36 228.6 9 4 5 230.0 23 230 36.5 232.5 232.5 232.8 3 9 + 1 ⁄ 6 4.5 5.5 233. 3 23 + 1 ⁄ 3 37 235.0 235 236. 6 23 + 2 ⁄ 3 37.5 237.0 6 9 + 1 ⁄ 3 5 6 240.0 24 240 240 38 241.3 9 + 1 ⁄ 2 5.5 6.5 243. 3 24 + 1 ⁄ 3 38.5 245.0 245 245.5 3 9 + 2 ⁄ 3 6 7 246. 6 24 + 2 ⁄ 3 39 247.5 247.5 249.7 6 9 + 5 ⁄ 6 6.5 7.5 250.0 25 250 39.5 253. 3 25 + 1 ⁄ 3 40 254.0 10 7 8 255.0 255 255 256. 6 25 + 2 ⁄ 3 40.5 258.2 3 10 + 1 ⁄ 6 7.5 8.5 260.0 26 260 41 262.4 6 10 + 1 ⁄ 3 8 9 262.5 262.5 263. 3 26 + 1 ⁄ 3 41.5 265.0 265 266. 6 26 + 2 ⁄ 3 42 266.7 10.5 8.5 9.5 270.0 27 270 270 42.5 270.9 3 10 + 2 ⁄ 3 9 10 273. 3 27 + 1 ⁄ 3 43 275.0 275 275.1 6 10 + 5 ⁄ 6 9.5 10.5 276. 6 27 + 2 ⁄ 3 43.5 277.5 277.5 279.4 11 10 11 280.0 28 280 44 283. 3 28 + 1 ⁄ 3 44.5 283.6 3 11 + 1 ⁄ 6 10.5 11.5 285.0 285 285 286. 6 28 + 2 ⁄ 3 45 287.8 6 11 + 1 ⁄ 3 11 12 290.0 29 290 45.5 292.1 11 + 1 ⁄ 2 11.5 12.5 292.5 292.5 293. 3 29 + 1 ⁄ 3 46 295.0 295 296. 3 11 + 2 ⁄ 3 12 13 296. 6 29 + 2 ⁄ 3 46.5 300.0 30 300 300 47 300.5 6 11 + 5 ⁄ 6 12.5 13.5 303. 3 30 + 1 ⁄ 3 47.5 304.8 12 13 14 305.0 305 306. 6 30 + 2 ⁄ 3 48 307.5 307.5 309.0 3 12 + 1 ⁄ 6 13.5 14.5 310.0 31 310 48.5 313.2 6 12 + 1 ⁄ 3 14 15 313. 3 31 + 1 ⁄ 3 49 315.0 315 315 316. 6 31 + 2 ⁄ 3 49.5 317.5 12 + 1 ⁄ 2 14.5 15.5 320.0 32 320 50 321.7 3 12 + 2 ⁄ 3 15 16 mm cm inch 5.0 mm 7.5 mm 6. 6 mm 8.4 6 mm 0. 3 inch Foot length Mondopoint EUR UK US Children's shoe sizes Foot length Mondopoint EUR UK US (mm) (cm) (inch) 5.0 mm 6. 6 mm 8.4 6 mm 8.4 6 mm 118.5 3 4 + 2 ⁄ 3 19.5 3.5 4 120 12 4 + 3 ⁄ 4 120 20 4 4.5 123. 3 12 + 1 ⁄ 3 4 + 5 ⁄ 6 125 20.5 4.5 5 126. 6 12 + 2 ⁄ 3 5 21 5 5.5 130 13 5 + 1 ⁄ 12 130 21.5 5.5 133. 3 13 + 1 ⁄ 3 5 + 1 ⁄ 4 22 6 136. 6 13 + 2 ⁄ 3 5 + 1 ⁄ 3 135 22.5 6 6.5 139.7 14 5 + 1 ⁄ 2 140 23 6.5 141.81 6 5 + 7 ⁄ 12 7 143. 3 14 + 1 ⁄ 3 5 + 2 ⁄ 3 23.5 7 7.5 146. 6 14 + 2 ⁄ 3 5 + 3 ⁄ 4 145 24 7.5 150 15 5 + 11 ⁄ 12 150 24.5 8 153. 3 15 + 1 ⁄ 3 6 155 25 8 8.5 156. 6 15 + 2 ⁄ 3 6 + 1 ⁄ 6 25.5 8.5 9 160 16 6 + 1 ⁄ 3 160 26 9 163. 3 16 + 1 ⁄ 3 6 + 5 ⁄ 12 26.5 9.5 166. 6 16 + 2 ⁄ 3 6 + 7 ⁄ 12 165 27 9.5 10 169. 3 17 6 + 2 ⁄ 3 170 27.5 10 10.5 173. 3 17 + 1 ⁄ 3 6 + 5 ⁄ 6 28 10.5 11 176. 6 17 + 2 ⁄ 3 7 175 28.5 11 11.5 179.91 6 18 7 + 1 ⁄ 12 180 29 11.5 183. 3 18 + 1 ⁄ 3 7 + 1 ⁄ 4 29.5 12 186. 6 18 + 2 ⁄ 3 7 + 1 ⁄ 3 185 30 12 12.5 190.5 19 7 + 1 ⁄ 2 190 30.5 12.5 13 192.61 6 19 + 1 ⁄ 3 7 + 7 ⁄ 12 31 13 13.5 196. 6 19 + 2 ⁄ 3 7 + 3 ⁄ 4 195 31.5 13.5 1 200 20 7 + 5 ⁄ 6 200 32 0.5 1.5 203. 3 20 + 1 ⁄ 3 8 205 32.5 1 2 206. 6 20 + 2 ⁄ 3 33 1.5 2.5 210 21 210 33.5 2 3 (mm) (cm) (inch) 5.0 mm 6. 67 mm 8.4 6 mm 8.4 6 mm Foot length Mondopoint EUR UK US Size marking [ edit ] It is recommended to include size marking in each of the four sizing systems on the shoe label and on the package. The principal system used for manufacturing the shoe needs to be placed first and emphasized (/wiki/Emphasis_(typography)) with a boldface. The standard includes quick conversion tables for adult shoe size marking; they provide matching sizes for shoes marked in Mondopoint, European, and UK systems. Converted values are rounded to a larger shoe size to increase comfort. Mondopoint conversion Mondo EUR UK US Men Women 215 34 2.5 3.5 4.5 220 35 3 4 5 225 35.5 3.5 4.5 5.5 230 36.5 4 5 6 235 37 4.5 5.5 6.5 240 38 5.5 6.5 7.5 245 38.5 6 7 8 250 39.5 6.5 7.5 8.5 255 40 7 8 9 260 41 7.5 8.5 9.5 265 41.5 8.5 9.5 10.5 270 42.5 9 10 11 275 43 9.5 10.5 11.5 280 44 10 11 12 285 44.5 10.5 11.5 12.5 290 45.5 11 12 13 295 46 12 13 14 300 47 12.5 13.5 14.5 305 47.5 13 14 15 310 48.5 13.5 14.5 15.5 315 49 14 15 16 320 50 15 16 17 European shoe size conversion EUR Mondo UK US Men Women 34 215 2 3 4 34.5 215 2.5 3.5 4.5 35 220 3 4 5 35.5 225 3.5 4.5 5.5 36 225 4 5 6 36.5 230 4 5 6 37 235 4.5 5.5 6.5 37.5 235 5 6 7 38 240 5.5 6.5 7.5 38.5 245 5.5 6.5 7.5 39 245 6 7 8 39.5 250 6.5 7.5 8.5 40 255 7 8 9 40.5 255 7.5 8.5 9.5 41 260 7.5 8.5 9.5 41.5 265 8 9 10 42 265 8.5 9.5 10.5 42.5 270 9 10 11 43 275 9.5 10.5 11.5 43.5 275 9.5 10.5 11.5 44 280 10 11 12 44.5 285 10.5 11.5 12.5 45 285 11 12 13 45.5 290 11.5 12.5 13.5 46 295 11.5 12.5 13.5 46.5 295 12 13 14 47 300 12.5 13.5 14.5 47.5 305 13 14 15 48 305 13 14 15 48.5 310 13.5 14.5 15.5 49 315 14 15 16 49.5 315 14.5 15.5 16.5 50 320 15 16 17 United Kingdom shoe size conversion UK Mondo EUR US Men Women 2 210 34 3 4 2.5 215 34.5 3.5 4.5 3 220 35 4 5 3.5 225 35.5 4.5 5.5 4 230 36.5 5 6 4.5 235 37 5.5 6.5 5 235 37.5 6 7 5.5 240 38 6.5 7.5 6 245 39 7 8 6.5 250 39.5 7.5 8.5 7 255 40 8 9 7.5 260 40.5 8.5 9.5 8 260 41.5 9 10 8.5 265 42 9.5 10.5 9 270 42.5 10 11 9.5 275 43.5 10.5 11.5 10 280 44 11 12 10.5 285 44.5 11.5 12.5 11 290 45.5 12 13 11.5 290 46 12.5 13.5 12 295 46.5 13 14 12.5 300 47 13.5 14.5 13 305 47.5 14 15 13.5 310 48.5 14.5 15.5 14 315 49 15 16 14.5 320 49.5 15.5 16.5 15 320 50 16 17 Conversion between US and UK sizing [ edit ] UK and US children's shoe sizes Last length Foot length/Brannock UK sizes US sizes (in) (mm) (in) (mm) Children's Children's 3 + 11 ⁄ 12 99.48 3 3 + 1 ⁄ 4 82.55 0 4 101.6 3 + 1 ⁄ 3 84.6 6 0 4 + 1 ⁄ 12 103.71 6 3 + 5 ⁄ 12 86.78 3 0.5 4 + 1 ⁄ 6 105.8 3 3 + 1 ⁄ 2 88.9 0.5 4 + 1 ⁄ 4 107.95 3 + 7 ⁄ 12 91.01 6 1 4 + 1 ⁄ 3 110.0 6 3 + 2 ⁄ 3 93.1 3 1 4 + 5 ⁄ 12 112.18 3 3 + 3 ⁄ 4 95.25 1.5 4 + 1 ⁄ 2 114.3 3 + 5 ⁄ 6 97.3 5 1.5 4 + 7 ⁄ 12 115.7 1 3 + 11 ⁄ 12 99.48 3 2 4 + 2 ⁄ 3 118.5 3 4 101.6 2 4 + 3 ⁄ 4 120.65 4 + 1 ⁄ 12 103.71 6 2.5 4 + 5 ⁄ 6 122.7 6 4 + 1 ⁄ 6 105.8 3 2.5 4 + 11 ⁄ 12 124.88 3 4 + 1 ⁄ 4 107.95 3 5 127.0 4 + 1 ⁄ 3 110.0 6 3 5 + 1 ⁄ 12 129.11 6 4 + 5 ⁄ 12 112.18 3 3.5 5 + 1 ⁄ 6 131.2 3 4 + 1 ⁄ 2 114.3 3.5 5 + 1 ⁄ 4 133.35 4 + 7 ⁄ 12 116.41 6 4 5 + 1 ⁄ 3 135.4 6 4 + 2 ⁄ 3 118.5 3 4 5 + 5 ⁄ 12 137.58 3 4 + 3 ⁄ 4 120.65 4.5 5 + 1 ⁄ 2 139.7 4 + 5 ⁄ 6 122.7 6 4.5 5 + 7 ⁄ 12 141.81 6 4 + 11 ⁄ 12 124.88 3 5 5 + 2 ⁄ 3 143.9 3 5 127.0 5 5 + 3 ⁄ 4 146.05 5 + 1 ⁄ 12 129.11 6 5.5 5 + 5 ⁄ 6 148.1 6 5 + 1 ⁄ 6 131.2 3 5.5 5 + 11 ⁄ 12 150.28 3 5 + 1 ⁄ 4 133.35 6 6 152.4 5 + 1 ⁄ 3 135.4 6 6 6 + 1 ⁄ 12 154.51 6 5 + 5 ⁄ 12 137.58 3 6.5 6 + 1 ⁄ 6 156.6 3 5 + 1 ⁄ 2 139.7 6.5 6 + 1 ⁄ 4 158.75 5 + 7 ⁄ 12 141.81 6 7 6 + 1 ⁄ 3 160.8 6 5 + 2 ⁄ 3 143.9 2 7 6 + 5 ⁄ 12 162.98 3 5 + 3 ⁄ 4 146.05 7.5 6 + 1 ⁄ 2 165.1 5 + 5 ⁄ 6 148.1 6 7.5 6 + 7 ⁄ 12 167.21 6 5 + 11 ⁄ 12 150.28 3 8 6 + 2 ⁄ 3 169. 3 6 152.4 8 6 + 3 ⁄ 4 171.45 6 + 1 ⁄ 12 154.51 6 8.5 6 + 5 ⁄ 6 173.5 6 6 + 1 ⁄ 6 156.6 3 8.5 6 + 11 ⁄ 12 173.5 6 6 + 1 ⁄ 4 158.75 9 7 177.8 6 + 1 ⁄ 3 160.8 6 9 7 + 1 ⁄ 12 179.91 3 6 + 5 ⁄ 12 162.98 3 9.5 7 + 1 ⁄ 6 182.0 3 6 + 1 ⁄ 2 165.1 9.5 7 + 1 ⁄ 4 183. 4 6 + 7 ⁄ 12 166.5 1 10 7 + 1 ⁄ 3 186.2 6 6 + 2 ⁄ 3 169. 3 10 7 + 5 ⁄ 12 188.38 3 6 + 3 ⁄ 4 170.45 10.5 7 + 1 ⁄ 2 190.5 6 + 5 ⁄ 6 173.5 6 10.5 7 + 7 ⁄ 12 192.61 6 6 + 11 ⁄ 12 174.9 7 11 7 + 2 ⁄ 3 194.7 3 7 177.8 11 7 + 3 ⁄ 4 196.85 7 + 1 ⁄ 12 179.91 6 11.5 7 + 5 ⁄ 6 198.9 6 7 + 1 ⁄ 6 182.0 3 11.5 7 + 11 ⁄ 12 201.08 3 7 + 1 ⁄ 4 184.15 12 8 203.2 7 + 1 ⁄ 3 186.2 6 12 8 + 1 ⁄ 12 205.31 5 7 + 5 ⁄ 12 188.38 3 12.5 8 + 1 ⁄ 6 207.4 3 7 + 1 ⁄ 2 190.5 12.5 8 + 1 ⁄ 4 209.5 7 + 7 ⁄ 12 192.61 6 13 8 + 1 ⁄ 3 211. 6 7 + 2 ⁄ 3 194.7 3 13 8 + 5 ⁄ 12 213.78 3 7 + 3 ⁄ 4 196.85 13.5 8 + 1 ⁄ 2 215.9 7 + 5 ⁄ 6 198.9 6 13.5 (in) (mm) (in) (mm) Children's Children's Last length Foot length/Brannock UK sizes US sizes UK and US adult shoe sizes Last length Foot length/Brannock UK sizes US sizes (in) (mm) (in) (mm) Adults' Men's Women's 8 203.2 7 + 1 ⁄ 3 186.2 6 (12) (12.25) 1 8 + 1 ⁄ 6 207.4 3 7 + 1 ⁄ 2 190.5 (12.5) (12.75) 1.5 8 + 1 ⁄ 3 211. 6 7 + 2 ⁄ 3 194.7 3 0 (13) 1 (13.25) 2 8 + 1 ⁄ 2 215.9 7 + 5 ⁄ 6 198.9 6 0.5 (13.5) 1.5 2.5 8 + 2 ⁄ 3 220.1 3 8 203.2 1 2 3 8 + 5 ⁄ 6 224.3 6 8 + 1 ⁄ 6 207.4 3 1.5 2.5 3.5 9 228.6 8 + 1 ⁄ 3 211. 6 2 3 4 9 + 1 ⁄ 6 232.8 3 8 + 1 ⁄ 2 215.9 2.5 3.5 4.5 9 + 1 ⁄ 3 237.0 6 8 + 2 ⁄ 3 220.1 3 3 4 5 9 + 1 ⁄ 2 241.3 8 + 5 ⁄ 6 224.3 6 3.5 4.5 5.5 9 + 2 ⁄ 3 245.5 3 9 228.6 4 5 6 9 + 5 ⁄ 6 249.7 6 9 + 1 ⁄ 6 232.8 3 4.5 5.5 6.5 10 254.0 9 + 1 ⁄ 3 237.0 6 5 6 7 10 + 1 ⁄ 6 258.2 3 9 + 1 ⁄ 2 241.3 5.5 6.5 7.5 10 + 1 ⁄ 3 262.4 6 9 + 2 ⁄ 3 245.5 3 6 7 8 10 + 1 ⁄ 2 266.7 9 + 5 ⁄ 6 249.7 6 6.5 7.5 8.5 10 + 2 ⁄ 3 270.9 3 10 254.0 7 8 9 10 + 5 ⁄ 6 275.1 6 10 + 1 ⁄ 6 258.2 3 7.5 8.5 9.5 11 279.4 10 + 1 ⁄ 3 262.4 6 8 9 10 11 + 1 ⁄ 6 283.6 3 10 + 1 ⁄ 2 266.7 8.5 9.5 10.5 11 + 1 ⁄ 3 287.8 6 10 + 2 ⁄ 3 270.9 3 9 10 11 11 + 1 ⁄ 2 292.1 10 + 5 ⁄ 6 275.1 6 9.5 10.5 11.5 11 + 2 ⁄ 3 296. 3 11 279.4 10 11 12 11 + 5 ⁄ 6 300.5 6 11 + 1 ⁄ 6 283.6 3 10.5 11.5 12.5 12 304.8 11 + 1 ⁄ 3 287.8 6 11 12 13 12 + 1 ⁄ 6 309.0 3 11 + 1 ⁄ 2 292.1 11.5 12.5 13.5 12 + 1 ⁄ 3 313.2 6 11 + 2 ⁄ 3 296. 3 12 13 14 12 + 1 ⁄ 2 317.5 11 + 5 ⁄ 6 300.5 6 12.5 13.5 14.5 12 + 2 ⁄ 3 321.7 3 12 304.8 13 14 15 12 + 5 ⁄ 6 325.9 7 12 + 1 ⁄ 6 309.0 3 13.5 14.5 15.5 13 330.2 12 + 1 ⁄ 3 313.2 6 14 15 16 13 + 1 ⁄ 6 334.4 3 12 + 1 ⁄ 2 317.5 14.5 15.5 16.5 13 + 1 ⁄ 3 338.6 7 12 + 2 ⁄ 3 321.7 3 15 16 17 13 + 1 ⁄ 2 342.9 12 + 5 ⁄ 6 325.9 7 15.5 16.5 17.5 13 + 2 ⁄ 3 347.1 3 13 330.2 16 17 18 (in) (mm) (in) (mm) Adults' Men's Women's Last length Foot length/Brannock UK sizes US sizes See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing sizes (/wiki/Clothing_sizes) List of shoe styles (/wiki/List_of_shoe_styles) Shoes (/wiki/Shoe) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Andersson, Bendt. "Recommendations to suppliers and manufacturers of orthopedic footwear concerning sizes of shoes and lasts" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120616211214/http://www.hi.se/Global/pdf/2004/04319-pdf.pdf) (PDF) (in Swedish). Archived from the original (http://www.hi.se/Global/pdf/2004/04319-pdf.pdf) (PDF) on 2012-06-16 . Retrieved 2009-01-06 . ^ Jump up to: a b Melissa (30 March 2016). "Why are shoe sizes as they are?" (https://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2016/03/pedestrian-origins-modern-shoe-sizes/) . Today I found out . (12×3=36. US(m): 36−22=14, UK: 36−23=13, EU:30.5×1.5=45.75 then +2 "for comfort" plus rounding = 48) ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Schuhweiten richtig messen & Größentabelle – F, G und H" (https://www.blitzrechner.de/schuhbreite/) . www.blitzrechner.de (in German) . Retrieved 2024-03-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Men's UK Shoe Width" (https://sizechart.com/shoes/shoe-width/men/uk/index.html) . sizechart.com . Retrieved 2024-03-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Franke, Rieke (2021-05-15). "Alles über Schuhweiten • Die Breite-Füße-Infothek" (https://breitefuesse.de/schuhweite-messen/) . Breite Fuesse (in German) . Retrieved 2024-03-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Janine (2023-04-26). "Women's shoe widths explained + width letters chart for US, UK & Europe - Pretty Big Shoes" (https://www.prettybigshoes.com/blog/shoe-widths-guide) . www.prettybigshoes.com . Retrieved 2024-03-27 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Instructions" (http://brannock.com/cgi-bin/start.cgi/brannock/instructions.html) . Genuine Brannock Device . Retrieved 2009-01-06 . ^ Jump up to: a b "ISO/TS 19407:2015 - Footwear -- Sizing -- Conversion of sizing systems" (https://www.iso.org/standard/62349.html) . International Organization for Standardization . Retrieved 2018-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Shoe Size Conversion: Use this EASY Tool, Size Guide + How To" (https://www.blitzresults.com/en/shoe-size/) . BlitzResults.com . 2017-11-11 . Retrieved 2018-06-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Cairns, Warwick (2007). About the Size of It . Macmillan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-230-01628-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-Besching170_11-0) Alexander Besching: Handbuch für die Schuhindustrie. 14. Auflage. Hüthig, Heidelberg 1990, S. 170. ^ (#cite_ref-12) ASICS - Shoe Size Guide (https://www.asics.com/us/en-us/shoe-size-guide.html) " ^ Jump up to: a b "History" (http://brannock.com/cgi-bin/start.cgi/brannock/history.html) . Genuine Brannock Device . Retrieved 2009-01-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-brannockChart_14-0) "Size Conversion Chart" (https://brannock.com/pages/conversion-chart) . Genuine Brannock Device . Retrieved 2022-02-09 . . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Telfer S, Woodburn J (2010). "The use of 3D surface scanning for the measurement and assessment of the human foot" (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2944246) . J Foot Ankle Res . 3 : 19. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1186/1757-1146-3-19 (https://doi.org/10.1186%2F1757-1146-3-19) . PMC (/wiki/PMC_(identifier)) 2944246 (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2944246) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 20815914 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20815914) . ^ (#cite_ref-16) German Standard DIN (/wiki/DIN) 66074:1975, Shoe sizes ^ (#cite_ref-17) Spanish Standard UNE (/wiki/AENOR) 59850:1998, Shoes: Size designation ^ (#cite_ref-18) GOST 11373-88 ^ (#cite_ref-19) GOST R 58149-2018 ^ (#cite_ref-20) GB/T (/wiki/Guobiao_standards) 3293:1998 ^ (#cite_ref-21) BS (/wiki/British_Standards) 4981:1973 ^ (#cite_ref-22) IS (/wiki/Indian_Standard) 8751:1978 ^ (#cite_ref-23) R. Boughey. Size Labelling of Footwear. Journal of Consumer Studies & Home Economics. Volume 1, Issue 2. June 1977. DOI:10.1111/j.1470-6431.1977.tb00197.x ^ (#cite_ref-24) International Standard ISO 9407:2019, Shoe sizes—Mondopoint system of sizing and marking ^ (#cite_ref-japan_25-0) (in Japanese) 靴のサイズ表示について・分かっているようで分かっていない話 (http://www.rakuten.co.jp/yokamon/428396/432155/433940/) tr. About shoe size display ... A story that seems to be known but not known Rakuten.co.jp Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110727234648/http://www.rakuten.co.jp/yokamon/428396/432155/433940/) 2011-07-27 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) External links [ edit ] IS 8751-1 (1978) (https://archive.org/details/gov.in.is.8751.1.1978) : Footwear sizes in mondopoint system, Part 1: Fundamental characteristics IS 8751-2 (1978) (https://archive.org/details/gov.in.is.8751.2.1978) : Footwear sizes in mondopoint system, Part 2: Length grading v t e ISO (/wiki/International_Organization_for_Standardization) standards by standard number List of ISO standards (/wiki/List_of_ISO_standards) – ISO romanizations (/wiki/List_of_ISO_romanizations) – IEC standards (/wiki/List_of_IEC_standards) 1–9999 1 (/wiki/ISO_1) 2 (/wiki/ISO_2) 3 (/wiki/Renard_series) 4 (/wiki/ISO_4) 6 (/wiki/Film_speed) 7 (/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe) 9 (/wiki/ISO_9) 16 (/wiki/A440_(pitch_standard)) 17 (/wiki/Renard_series) 31 (/wiki/ISO_31) -0 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Tattoos associated with criminal activity and gang membership Not to be confused with Prison tattooing (/wiki/Prison_tattooing) . This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Criminal_tattoo) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Criminal_tattoo) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Criminal_tattoo) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. 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( June 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article may need to be rewritten to comply with Wikipedia's quality standards (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style) . You can help (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Criminal_tattoo&action=edit) . The talk page (/wiki/Talk:Criminal_tattoo) may contain suggestions. ( July 2013 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Criminal tattoos are classified in different ways. The meaning and histories of criminal tattoos vary from country to country, and they are commonly assumed to be associated with gang membership. [1] (#cite_note-watkins2007-1) [2] (#cite_note-birzer2024-2) They could also be a record of the wearer's personal history—such as their skills, specialties, accomplishments, incarceration, world view (/wiki/World_view) and/or means of personal expression. [2] (#cite_note-birzer2024-2) Tattoos have been empirically associated with deviance (/wiki/Deviance_(sociology)) , personality disorders (/wiki/Personality_disorder) , and criminality. [3] (#cite_note-jennings2014-3) [4] (#cite_note-adams2012-4) There is no direct correlation between tattoos and criminals, but we can observe the developed history of tattoos and their meanings in countries such as Australia, France, Italy, Japan, Russia, and the United States. History [ edit ] The art of tattooing dates back to 8000 BC when it was used as a means of identification amongst different cultures. [5] (#cite_note-brady1993-5) Ancient Greek and Roman histories, as well as ancient Japanese and Chinese histories possess a record of criminality being associated with tattoos, but it was not until the 16th to 18th century that this notion became more prevalent in other parts of the world. Over time, tattooing began to be used to mark prisoners and those who committed crimes, so law enforcement would be able to monitor those who disrupted and caused harm to communities. As a means of tracking criminals, noting a person's tattoos became an efficient way to document them. It provided a unique descriptor that set a criminal apart from others. [6] (#cite_note-saunders2021-6) Rebels and lawless individuals started to mark themselves with tattoos to signify their actions which they took pride in or identified with; this could be acts of rebellion, crimes, personal beliefs, and commitment to a certain group. [5] (#cite_note-brady1993-5) Convicts had knowledge of their tattoos being used to exercise more control over them, but the rebellious, individuality of tattoos proved to be more important. [6] (#cite_note-saunders2021-6) Criminal tattoos by country [ edit ] Australia [ edit ] Tattoo marking a deserter (/wiki/Desertion) from the British Army (/wiki/British_Army) . Skin removed post-mortem. Prisoners who were transported from Britain to Australian penal colonies (/wiki/Penal_colony) between 1787 and 1867 were sometimes tattooed with marks intended to signify disgrace, for example, D for deserter (/wiki/Deserter) . Prisoners often modified these tattoos to conceal the original design or to express wry or rebellious messages. [7] (#cite_note-awofeso-7) A common prison tattoo in Australia is 'A.C.A.C.' - the initials to a derogatory phrase regarding cops. [ citation needed ] France [ edit ] In France (/wiki/France) , five dots tattoo (/wiki/Five_dots_tattoo) resembling the dots on a dice, placed on the hand between index finger (/wiki/Index_finger) and thumb (/wiki/Thumb) are found on prison inmates. This tattoo represents the individual between the four walls of the prison cell ( un homme entre quatre murs —a man between four walls); this also has the same meaning in Russia, Germany [8] (#cite_note-8) and Spain. Tattoos of three dots on the hand mean "death to cops" ( mort aux vaches / flics / poulets / keufs ), also used in Germany, "nichts sehen, nichts hören, nichts sagen" ("see/hear/say nothing"= no snitch/ing.) [9] (#cite_note-9) A single dot on the cheek usually means the wearer is a pimp (/wiki/Pimp) ( point des maquereaux ). A stick figure holding a trident (/wiki/Trident) is also a common French prison tattoo. Italy [ edit ] Towards the end of the 19th century, Italy implemented the Bertillonage system (/wiki/Alphonse_Bertillon) as a means to identify criminals; this method was used to also target anyone who was a threat to social order and was deemed "suspicious". [10] (#cite_note-hodapp2008-10) Tattoos were not only seen on criminals but it was viewed as a common trait amongst criminals within the Bertillonage system. People with tattoos were set apart from others, and it was used as evidence that they were to be seen as different in the general public. This idea was applied to perceiving someone's psyche and deducing if they are biologically inclined to criminal behavior, as higher pain tolerance, primal nature, and shameless attitudes were associated with a predisposition towards criminal behavior. [10] (#cite_note-hodapp2008-10) Specific, identifiable tattoos are seen within organized crime. "La Stidda (/wiki/Stidda) ," a Mafia (/wiki/Sicilian_Mafia) -style criminal organization in Sicily (/wiki/Sicily) , is known for using star tattoos to identify members. [10] (#cite_note-hodapp2008-10) This small, five-point star is called a stiddari and is typically placed between the thumb and index finger on the right hand. Japan [ edit ] Tattooed yakuza The Edo period in Japan exemplified the strive for internal peace within the country. Tattoos started to be used to mark those who committed crimes which began the correlation between tattoos and criminals. The Meiji restoration period followed the Edo period; Japan aimed to be viewed as more civilized during this time, so tattooing grew to be deemed barbaric and was outlawed throughout the country. [11] (#cite_note-cole2018-11) Yakuza (/wiki/Yakuza) , the organized crime syndicate of Japan, dates back to the 17th century and maintains a strong loyalty. A form of committing is by embracing tattoos which make them identifiable within the gang and to the public. [12] (#cite_note-justice2024-12) The Yakuza's tattoos would cover large areas of the body. The tattoos could cover arms, chest, back, and legs, but may not be visible when wearing traditional Japanese garments, such as a kimono (/wiki/Kimono) , due to the specific placement. As a member of the Yakuza, enduring the painful process of tattooing was viewed as a declaration of loyalty and courage. [13] (#cite_note-13) Modern yakuza (/wiki/Yakuza) tattoos, with common symbols and visual motifs (/wiki/Motif_(visual_arts)) , are noted for their similarity to current Western tattoo styles. [14] (#cite_note-14) Current Yakuza (/wiki/Yakuza) have full-body tattoos, typically inked in secret by tattoo artists associated with clans. Due to a clear association between tattoo artistry and crime, the practice was shortly banned following the Meiji restoration (/wiki/Meiji_restoration) period. During the US occupation after World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , this law was repealed. [15] (#cite_note-nippon.com-15) Due to the association between the Yakuza and tattoos, the stigmatization of tattoos in Japan has become a part of their cultural norm. As the public grew more knowledgeable of criminal activity, the portrayal of gangs became more evident in popular films, so this grew a specific connotation between a tattoo on an individual and a suspected criminal association. [16] (#cite_note-varese2006-16) Although Yakuza membership declined after the Anti-Organized Crime Law was enacted in 1991 and enforced in 1992, the gang is still active. [11] (#cite_note-cole2018-11) As a means of avoiding interactions with gang members in public and the history of the association, tattooed individuals, regardless of gang affiliation, are not permitted to enter a number of establishments due to societal standards and expectations. [12] (#cite_note-justice2024-12) Russia [ edit ] Main articles: Russian criminal tattoos (/wiki/Russian_criminal_tattoos) , Vory V Zakone (/wiki/Vory_V_Zakone) , and Russian mafia (/wiki/Russian_mafia) This section contains too many or overly lengthy quotations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style#Quotations) . Please help summarize the quotations (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Criminal_tattoo&action=edit) . Consider transferring direct quotations to Wikiquote (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/) or excerpts to Wikisource (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/) . ( February 2024 ) Russian criminal tattoos have a complex system of symbols that can give quite detailed information about the wearer. Not only do the symbols carry meaning, but the area of the body on which they are placed may be meaningful too. The initiation tattoo of a new gang member is usually placed on the chest and may incorporate a rose (/wiki/Rose) . A rose on the chest is also used within the Russian mafia (/wiki/Russian_mafia) . Wearing false or unearned tattoos is punishable in the criminal underworld (/wiki/Criminal_underworld) , usually by removal of the tattoo, followed by beatings and sometimes rape, or even murder. Tattoos can be removed (voluntarily, in the case of loss of rank, new affiliation, "lifestyle" change, etc.) by bandaging magnesium (/wiki/Magnesium) powder onto the surface of the skin, which dissolves the skin bearing the marks with painful caustic burns (/wiki/Caustic_burn) . This powder is gained by filing "light alloy," e.g., lawnmower casing and is a jailhouse commodity. "As Russia's leading expert on tattoo iconography, Mr. Arkady Bronnikov can tell the prisoner's story from looking at the designs on his body. The huge spider in a web that is drawn on his skull reveals, in prison tattoo code, that he is a drug addict (/wiki/Drug_addict) . Also, he is a repeat offender: The onion domes of a Russian church fan across his shoulder blades, each of the seven domes representing a different stay in prison. Above the church, across the back of his neck, the convict has stenciled, in Russian, "Not just anyone can hold his head this high."... "The more tattoos a convict gets, the more sentences he has served, the more respect he gets in prison," says Mr. Bronnikov. "The tattoos show that he isn't afraid of pain." [17] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-17) Tattoos made in a Russian prison often have a distinct bluish color (due to being made with ink from a ballpoint pen) and usually appear somewhat blurred because of the lack of instruments to draw fine lines. The ink is often created from burning the heel of a shoe and mixing the soot with urine (/wiki/Urine) , and injected into the skin utilizing a sharpened guitar string attached to an electric shaver. [ contradictory ] [18] (#cite_note-18) "In [Russian] prison, the ink for tattoos was manufactured from molten rubber mixed with water and sugar. Artists used sewing needles sharpened on concrete cell floors. Sometimes, portraits of Stalin and Lenin--with or without horns--were in fashion, sometimes monasteries and medieval knights. Occasionally, caricatures of Communists with pig snouts or correctional officers in wolf guise were the rage. Maps of the gulag system, with Russia, portrayed as a giant prison camp, might be etched across someone's back. Crucifixion scenes were popular. Ronald Reagan was even a subject, according to a Russian dictionary of prison slang ( Fenya (/wiki/Fenya) )." [19] (#cite_note-19) In addition to voluntary tattooing, tattoos are used to stigmatize (/wiki/Stigmatize) and punish (/wiki/Punish) individuals within the criminal society. These tattoos may be placed on an individual who fails to pay debts in card games (/wiki/Card_games) , or otherwise breaks the criminal code (/wiki/Criminal_code) , and often have very blatant sexual images, embarrassing the wearer. Tattoos on the forehead are sometimes forcibly applied, and designed both to humiliate (/wiki/Humiliate) the bearer and warn others about him or her. They frequently consist of slurs about the bearer's ethnicity (/wiki/Ethnicity) , sexual orientation (/wiki/Sexual_orientation) , or perceived cooperation with the prison authorities. They can indicate that the holder is a member of a political group (/wiki/Political_group) considered offensive by other prisoners (e.g., Vlasovite (/wiki/Andrey_Vlasov) ), or has been convicted of a crime (such as child rape (/wiki/Child_rape) ) that is disapproved of by other criminals. They can also advertise that the bearer is "downcast", or of the lowest social caste in prison, usually used for the sexual gratification of higher-ranked inmates. Voluntary facial tattoos signify that the bearer does not expect to be released back into normal society within his lifetime, and will usually consist of tattoos on the eyelids of messages such as "Don't Wake Me Up." They are managed by inserting a metal spoon under the eyelid, so the tattoo needle does not pierce the eye. Tattoos that consist of political or anti-authoritarian statements are known as "grins". They are often tattooed on the stomach of a thief in law (/wiki/Thief_in_law) , as a means of acquiring status in the criminal community. A Russian criminologist (/wiki/Criminologist) , Yuri Dubyagin, has claimed that, during the Soviet era, there existed "secret orders" that an anti-government (/wiki/Sedition) tattoo must be "destroyed surgically", and that this procedure was usually fatal. [ citation needed ] Tattoos of the portraits of Soviet leaders like Lenin and Stalin were often applied on the chest due to a belief that firing squads were forbidden to shoot at the leaders' pictures. N. Banerjee wrote in 1992 for The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) about tattoos in Russian prisons (/wiki/Russian_prisons) : "...the pain does deter even the most macho convict from covering his body, all at once, with meaningful pictures. Tattoos are created by instilling pigment in the skin with thousands of needle pricks. In the camps, the process can take anywhere from a few hours to a few years, depending on the artist and his ambition, says Mr. Bronnikov. Because of prison conditions, tattoo artists have to improvise with materials and equipment. For instance, they will draw a picture on a wooden plank, place needles along the lines of the design, cover the needles with ink and stamp the whole tableau on the prisoner's body. Another method is to slice the image onto the skin with a razor and daub the cut with indelible ink. Usually, prisoners manage to get an electric shaver and a syringe with a needle, which they jury-rig into a tattooing machine. Ink is hard to come by, so to make dye, artists will often burn the heel of a shoe, and mix the ash with the prisoner's urine -- a practice convicts believe reduces the chance of infection." [17] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-17) Common body tattoos and their significance (these tattoos are most characteristic of the Old Regime (/wiki/Soviet_Union#Early_policies_(1919–1939)) when the Vory V Zakone (/wiki/Vory_V_Zakone) was more structured in prisons): 243 in a badge: signifies the wearer has committed battery on a police officer. Often worn on the arm or hand used for the assault. Taken from the California penal code. Barbed wire (/wiki/Barbed_wire) across the forehead signifies a sentence of life imprisonment (/wiki/Life_imprisonment) without a possibility of parole. [20] (#cite_note-corrections2-20) Barbed wire on the forearms or around the wrist signifies years served. Bells (/wiki/Bell_(instrument)) indicate a sentence served in full. Birds (/wiki/Birds) over the horizon: "I was born free and should be free." Bearer longs for a life outside prison. [20] (#cite_note-corrections2-20) Cat (/wiki/Cat) : a career as a thief. A single cat means the bearer worked alone; several cats mean the bearer was part of a gang. [20] (#cite_note-corrections2-20) The word "cat," in Russian, forms an acronym indicating the wearer's natural home is in prison. Alternately, can signify cleverness. Celtic Cross (/wiki/Celtic_Cross) : Part of the racist white power movement. It has also been used to represent crosshairs of a gun, meaning that a wearer is a hitman, and he too will meet a violent end one day. [21] (#cite_note-Cain_2000-21) Churches (/wiki/Church_(building)) , mosques, fortresses, etc., are often tattooed on the chest, back, or hand. The number of spires or towers can represent the years a prisoner has been incarcerated or the number of times he has been imprisoned. A cross at the top of the spire indicates that the sentence was paid in full. The phrase, "The Church is the House of God," often inscribed beneath a cathedral, has the metaphorical (/wiki/Metaphorical) meaning, "Prison is the Home of the Thief." Cross: A small cross either on the forehead, finger, or between the thumb and forefinger is sometimes seen on convicts as a symbol of serving time in prison. There is another category of tattoos—of rings on the fingers and symbols on the hands—which informs other inmates of the bearer's rank when the bearer is clothed: [22] (#cite_note-22) A cross on the chest can represent a high ranking in the Russian mob. [23] (#cite_note-corrections-23) Crosses on knuckles: 'Trips to the zone'. 'I've been in prison three times'. Devil's head: 'Grin'. 'I hold a grudge against the authorities'. Dots on knuckles: number of years served in prison. Epaulets (/wiki/Epaulets) : Military badge and uniform are worn on the shoulders. This symbolizes criminal accomplishments. [20] (#cite_note-corrections2-20) When a skull symbol is portrayed with it, it usually designates a man as a murderer. Epaulets are decorated with certain crests and symbols in the sections where one can see the skull there before conviction, especially when it was of any significance. Five dots: Represents time done in prison. Four of the dots represent walls, while the fifth represents the prisoner. [23] (#cite_note-corrections-23) Madonna (/wiki/Mary_(mother_of_Jesus)) and baby Jesus (/wiki/Jesus) indicates that the bearer is 'clean before his friends' in that he will never betray them to authorities. May also symbolize having become a criminal early in life. Mermaid: indicates a conviction of child molestation MIR: The Russian word for "peace," an acronym that indicates "only a firing squad will reform me." Dagger in neck: Signifies that owner of tattoo cut someone. [24] (#cite_note-russian-criminal-tattoos-24) Executioner (/wiki/Executioner) : Murderer, or that they follow the Thieves' Code (/wiki/Thief_in_law#The_Thieves.27_Code) [21] (#cite_note-Cain_2000-21) Goat (/wiki/Goat) : Informer, an animal without honor. Probably begrudged as a mark of humiliation. Lenin (/wiki/Vladimir_Lenin) , Stalin (/wiki/Stalin) , Karl Marx (/wiki/Karl_Marx) , and Friedrich Engels (/wiki/Friedrich_Engels) : Usually tattooed across the chest or over vital organs (/wiki/Vital_organs) . Mostly characteristic of the Old Regime; prisoners would tattoo them because it was believed the firing squads could not shoot the images of USSR's founding fathers. Spider (/wiki/Spider) or spider web: may symbolize racism or doing time in prison [25] (#cite_note-25) Spider Web (/wiki/Spider_Web) : If the spider is in the center, the bearer is dedicated to a life of crime; if it is climbing out of the web, the bearer is trying to reform himself. A few other versions are that the wearer is a drug addict, like an insect trapped in a spider's web, he is trapped in some narcotic web, or that it signifies a time in prison as each ring of the spider web represents one year in prison. [23] (#cite_note-corrections-23) Teardrop tattoo (/wiki/Teardrop_tattoo) : A teardrop underneath an eye: the wearer was raped in prison [26] (#cite_note-mexconnect-26) [27] (#cite_note-meaning-27) and tattooed with a teardrop under the eye by the offending party, [26] (#cite_note-mexconnect-26) this was a way of "marking" an inmate as property or to publicly humiliate the inmate as face tattoos cannot be hidden. In West Coast gang culture, the tattoo may signify that the wearer has killed someone. [23] (#cite_note-corrections-23) [28] (#cite_note-28) Tombstones (/wiki/Tombstone) represent the loss of time. You may see the number of years that are served (i.e., five tombstones reading 2001–2005 means the prisoner has done five years). SS (/wiki/SS) : Sohranil Sovest - Sign of against prison authorities. [24] (#cite_note-russian-criminal-tattoos-24) Stars (/wiki/Star_(glyph)) : Worn on the knees: signifies that an owner 'will kneel before no man'. Stars (/wiki/Star_(glyph)) : Worn on the shoulders: Signifies that the owner is a man of discipline, status, and tradition. Men will also receive stars when promoted to "Captain" in the Vory V Zakone (/wiki/Vory_V_Zakone) . Swastika (/wiki/Swastika) : Against prison authorities. Does not literally mean that the wearer is a Nazi sympathiser. [24] (#cite_note-russian-criminal-tattoos-24) Single dot: 'I escaped'. SLON (/wiki/SLON) : an acronym that spells the Russian word for elephant but which stands for, 'From my early years nothing but misery' or 'Death to cops by knife'. United States [ edit ] Tattoos can commonly be found on those related to a gang, as they represent pride in their membership. The symbols and typefaces used will vary and can indicate which gang one may belong to; the location of the tattoo is also notable, as it indicates the level of exposure and potential identification one may want to have in the general public. [29] (#cite_note-mallon1999-29) One of the most well-known criminal tattoos is the teardrop tattoo (/wiki/Teardrop_tattoo) . [30] (#cite_note-30) This is more symbolic of criminal activity among West Coast gangs where a teardrop tattoo underneath the eye can indicate whether an individual committed murder or attempted murder. [31] (#cite_note-erasing2024-31) [32] (#cite_note-smith2008-32) Other meanings of this tattoo are indicating time spent in prison or the loss of a loved one associated with a gang. [31] (#cite_note-erasing2024-31) A common tattoo in American prisons for Hispanic inmates is four dots or three dots. The dots represent that you have earned your keep in your gang. The three dots would represent the 13 of the southern gangs (/wiki/Sure%C3%B1os) and the same for the northern gangs (/wiki/Norte%C3%B1os) with four dots :: for 14. [33] (#cite_note-33) Geographic location is commonly referred to, so another identifiable tattoo is an area code (Ex. 213 would represent Los Angeles). Hispanic gangs have a trend of using old English script and incorporating religious themes in their tattoos, as a substantial portion of members and their families are Catholic. Their tattoos are frequently larger and easily visible. [29] (#cite_note-mallon1999-29) Markers of the Aryan Brotherhood (/wiki/Aryan_Brotherhood) , a white Neo-Nazi prison gang include but are not limited to the letters AB , Celtic imagery, and the number 666. [34] (#cite_note-34) Themes of racism are evident in Aryan Brotherhood gang tattoos through white supremacist language and Nazi references. [29] (#cite_note-mallon1999-29) Prison Tattoos in the Unites States [ edit ] In the United States, the tattooing of criminals increased in the 1930s, and this could be attributed to tattooing in prisons. Although tattooing is highly prohibited in U.S. prisons, inmates take part and accept the disciplinary action often taken. Studies have shown that inmates would receive tattoos while serving their sentence are more extroverted; they have a sense of belonging and embrace being a prisoner. This trait is coupled with a lack of self-discipline. [5] (#cite_note-brady1993-5) Since tattooing in prison (/wiki/Prison) is illegal in many jurisdictions, the inmates (/wiki/Inmates) do not have the proper equipment necessary for the practice. This forces inmates to find ways to create their own tattooing devices out of their belongings. The ink used to create the tattoo requires a certain quality to appear correctly. Inmates can acquire ink a number of ways: street ink from visits or corrections officers or it could be created with a few components. Ink could be made with water, isopropyl alcohol, and black soot. Improvising meant burning various materials to acquire the soot and ingredients containing alcohol such as mouthwash. Improvised tattooing equipment has been assembled from materials such as mechanical pencils, Bic pens, radio transistors, staples, paper clips, or guitar strings. [35] (#cite_note-35) Certain tattoo designs have developed recognized coded (/wiki/Code) meanings. [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) The code systems can be quite complex, and because of the nature of what they encode, the designs of criminal tattoos are not widely recognized as such to outsiders. Coded prison tattoos commonly found in North America: Three dots making a triangle - typically between the thumb and forefinger [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) Teardrop - under the eye; multiple meanings, commonly symbolizes committing or attempted murder [31] (#cite_note-erasing2024-31) Shamrock - no specific location on body; indicates belonging to Aryan Brotherhood (/wiki/Aryan_Brotherhood) [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) The shamrock can include the number 12, referencing the letters "AB" Area codes - no specific location on body; gang members will identify with the area code of their neighborhood or gang's location [29] (#cite_note-mallon1999-29) Spider web - typically found covering the elbow; white supremacists use this symbol to outwardly express that they have injured or killed [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) Clock with no hands - symbolizes time spent in prison and serving a sentence [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) The number 13 - demonstrates being a member of the Mara Salvatrucha (/wiki/Mara_Salvatrucha) 13 gang [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) The number 14 - demonstrates being a member of the Nuestra Familia (/wiki/Nuestra_Familia) , a prison gang [36] (#cite_note-meaning2010-36) Tattoos for enslaved prostitutes [ edit ] Forced and enslaved (/wiki/Slavery) prostitutes (/wiki/Prostitutes) are often tattooed or branded (/wiki/Branding_iron) with a mark of their pimps (/wiki/Pimps) . Women and girls being forced into prostitution (/wiki/Prostitution) against their will may have their pimps' name or gang (/wiki/Gang) symbol inked or branded with a hot iron on their skin. In some organizations involved with the trafficking of women (/wiki/Trafficking_of_women) and girls, like the mafias (/wiki/Mafias) , nearly all prostitutes are marked. Some pimps and organizations (/wiki/Criminal_organisation) use their name or well-known logo, while others use secret signs. [37] (#cite_note-37) In the past, the branding mark was usually small, sometimes hidden between the labia minora (/wiki/Labia_minora) . Today, some pimps write their names in big letters all upon the body of the victim. [38] (#cite_note-38) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Barrio Azteca (/wiki/Barrio_Azteca) 18th Street Gang (/wiki/18th_Street_Gang) Drug cartel (/wiki/Drug_cartel) Gang signal (/wiki/Gang_signal) Human branding (/wiki/Human_branding) HWDP (/wiki/HWDP) , Polish anti-police acronym List of Chinese criminal organizations (/wiki/List_of_Chinese_criminal_organizations) List of criminal enterprises, gangs and syndicates (/wiki/List_of_criminal_enterprises,_gangs_and_syndicates) MS-13 (/wiki/MS-13) Organized crime (/wiki/Organized_crime) Russian mafia (/wiki/Russian_mafia) Tong (organization) (/wiki/Tong_(organization)) Triad (underground society) (/wiki/Triad_(underground_society)) Yakuza (/wiki/Yakuza) Aryan Brotherhood (/wiki/Aryan_Brotherhood) References [ edit ] Citations [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-watkins2007_1-0) Watkins, Derrick. (2007). Gang investigations : a street cop's guide . Ashby, Richard., American Society of Law Enforcement Trainers. Sudbury, Mass.: Jones and Bartlett Publishers. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7637-3391-9 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 62593583 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/62593583) . ^ Jump up to: a b Introduction to criminal investigation . Birzer, Michael L., 1960-, Roberson, Cliff, 1937-. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press. 2012. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4398-3934-8 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 747385725 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/747385725) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-jennings2014_3-0) Wesley G. Jennings; Bryanna Hahn Fox; David P. Farrington (January 14, 2014), "Inked into Crime? An Examination of the Causal Relationship between Tattoos and Life-Course Offending among Males from the Cambridge Study in Delinquent Development", Journal of Criminal Justice , 42 (1, January–February 2014): 77–84, doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1016/j.jcrimjus.2013.12.006 (https://doi.org/10.1016%2Fj.jcrimjus.2013.12.006) ^ (#cite_ref-adams2012_4-0) Joshua Adams (2012), "The Relationship between Tattooing and Deviance in Contemporary Society", Deviance Today , pp. 137–145 ^ Jump up to: a b c Brady, C (September 1993). "FROM PUNISHMENT TO EXPRESSION: A HISTORY OF TATTOOS IN CORRECTIONS" (https://www.ojp.gov/ncjrs/virtual-library/abstracts/punishment-expression-history-tattoos-corrections#:~:text=The%20tattoo%20became%20the%20badge,crimes%2C%20sentences%2C%20and%20beliefs.) . Corrections Compendium . 18 (9): 1–5 – via NCJRS. ^ Jump up to: a b Saunders, Rosie (2021-10-04). "Inked and Exiled: How Tattoo Culture Became Synonymous with Criminals in Britain" (https://medium.com/@itsrosiesaunders/inked-and-exiled-how-tattoo-culture-became-synonymous-with-criminals-in-britain-c3fd0d1f4c5) . Medium . Retrieved 2024-05-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-awofeso_7-0) Niyi Awofeso (June 2004). "Prison argot and penal discipline" (https://web.archive.org/web/20050601085145/http://www.mundanebehavior.org/issues/v5n1/awofeso5-1.htm) . Journal of Mundane Behavior . 5 (1). Archived from the original (http://mundanebehavior.org/issues/v5n1/awofeso5-1.htm) on June 1, 2005. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Baldayev, Danzig (2006), Russian criminal tattoo encyclopedia, Volume 3 , FUEL Publishing, p. 214 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Tung, Angela (24 February 2016). "The Hidden Meanings Behind 11 Prison Tattoos" (https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/75828/hidden-meanings-behind-11-prison-tattoos) . Mental Floss . ^ Jump up to: a b c Hodapp, Christopher (2008). Conspiracy Theories and Secret Societies For Dummies . Wiley Publishing. p. 292. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-470-18408-0 . ^ Jump up to: a b Cole, Michael (2019-01-30). "Asia Pacific Perspectives Journal - V16No1 Fall/Winter 2018-19 - Skutlin" (https://noredirect-usfca-public.pantheonsite.io/center-asia-pacific/perspectives/v16n1/skutlin) . University of San Francisco . Retrieved 2024-04-12 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Yakuza: Past and Present | Office of Justice Programs" (https://www.ojp.gov/ncjrs/virtual-library/abstracts/yakuza-past-and-present) . www.ojp.gov . Retrieved 2024-04-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Maruko, E (2002). "The "Underworld" Goes Underground". Harvard Asia Quarterly . 6 (3): 14–18. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Boyd, Oscar (2018-09-15). " (https://www.japantimes.co.jp/culture/2018/09/15/books/yakuza-tattoo-inside-secretive-world-yakuzas-tattoos/) 'Yakuza Tattoo': Inside the secretive world of the yakuza's tattoos" (https://www.japantimes.co.jp/culture/2018/09/15/books/yakuza-tattoo-inside-secretive-world-yakuzas-tattoos/) . The Japan Times . Retrieved 2019-07-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-nippon.com_15-0) " (https://www.nippon.com/en/views/b06701/irezumi-the-japanese-tattoo-unveiled.html) "Irezumi": The Japanese Tattoo Unveiled" (https://www.nippon.com/en/views/b06701/irezumi-the-japanese-tattoo-unveiled.html) . nippon.com . 2017-01-30 . Retrieved 2019-07-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-varese2006_16-0) Varese, Federico (February 2006). "The Secret History of Japanese Cinema: The Yakuza movies" (http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17440570600650166) . Global Crime . 7 (1): 105–124. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/17440570600650166 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F17440570600650166) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1744-0572 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1744-0572) . ^ Jump up to: a b Banerjee, N. (1992, Jul 29). Russian convicts use body language of their very own --- prison tattoos spell out lives of crime and establish the hierarchy of inmates. Wall Street Journal. ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Russian prison tattoos" (http://www.phaseloop.com/foreignprisoners/exp-russian_tats.html) . Foreigner prisoner support service. 21 February 2024. ^ (#cite_ref-19) Williams, D. (2000, May 29). Russia journal; prison gave an artist career in the skin trade. The Washington Post. ^ Jump up to: a b c d "15 more prison tattoos and their meanings" (https://www.corrections1.com/tattoos/articles/15-more-prison-tattoos-and-their-meanings-eJlxICFJEWX33piX/) . Corrections1 . October 25, 2014 . Retrieved 11 January 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b The Mark of Cain (2000), film on Russian criminal tattoos; DVD, ASIN B0011UBDV8 ^ (#cite_ref-22) [Baldaev, D. S., and Sergei Vasiliev. Russian Criminal Tattoo Encyclopaedia. Vol. 1. London: Fuel, 2009. Print.] ^ Jump up to: a b c d "15 prison tattoos and their meanings" (https://www.corrections1.com/prison-gangs/articles/15-prison-tattoos-and-their-meanings-pzgKItC7WYoa1wvk/#:~:text=In%20some%20places%2C%20the%20tattoo,that%20they%20are%20seeking%20revenge.) . Corrections1 . September 4, 2014 . Retrieved 11 January 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Russian Prison Tattoos Meanings" (http://www.russiancriminaltattoo.com/2009/01/russian-criminal-tattoos-have-complex.html) . Russia Criminal Tattoo . July 10, 2009. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200731201525/http://www.russiancriminaltattoo.com/2009/01/russian-criminal-tattoos-have-complex.html) from the original on July 31, 2020 . Retrieved May 29, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Spider Web Tattoos - What Do They Mean?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100301075026/http://www.tattoosymbol.com/just-for-site/spider-web.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.tattoosymbol.com/just-for-site/spider-web.html) on March 1, 2010. ^ Jump up to: a b "Four Days in the Oaxaca State Prison : Mexico Living" (http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/3624-four-days-in-the-oaxaca-state-prison) . mexconnect.com . Retrieved 3 November 2016 . the victim of rape is tattooed with a teardrop below the eye by the offending party ^ (#cite_ref-meaning_27-0) "Teardrop Tattoo Meaning: Tattoos With Meaning" (http://www.tattooswithmeaning.com/teardrop-tattoo-meaning) . tattooswithmeaning.com. a way of "marking" an inmate as property of another person or for humiliation; a face tattoo cannot be covered up or hidden. ^ (#cite_ref-28) Smith, Brendan (25 April 2008). "Tattoo Regret" (https://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/234291/tattoo-regret/) . Washington City Paper . Retrieved 11 January 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Mallon, William K.; Russell, Marie A. (September 1999). "Clinical and Forensic Significance of Tattoos" (https://journals.lww.com/aenjournal/abstract/1999/09000/clinical_and_forensic_significance_of_tattoos.4.aspx) . Advanced Emergency Nursing Journal . 21 (3): 21. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1931-4485 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1931-4485) . ^ (#cite_ref-30) MacDonald, John Marshall (1987). The confession: interrogation and criminal profiles for police officers . Apache Press. p. 83. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780961823009 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Erasing the past: tattoo-removal programs for former gang members. - Free Online Library" (https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Erasing+the+past:+tattoo-removal+programs+for+former+gang+members.-a0183750656) . www.thefreelibrary.com . Retrieved 2024-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-smith2008_32-0) Smith, Brendan (2008-04-25). "Tattoo Regret" (http://washingtoncitypaper.com/article/234291/tattoo-regret/) . Washington City Paper . Retrieved 2024-04-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Goslin, Charles (2017). Understanding Personal Security and Risk: A Guide for Business Travelers . CRC Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-3153-5035-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "White Gang Tattoos" (https://www.policemag.com/366957/white-gang-tattoos) . www.policemag.com . 7 August 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-35) Whidden, Calen "Wolf" (2022-10-07). "A Brief Lesson on Prison Ink" (http://prisonjournalismproject.org/2022/10/07/a-brief-lesson-on-prison-ink/) . Prison Journalism Project . Retrieved 2024-04-30 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g "Prison Tattoos and Their Meanings" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131030224151/http://www.tattoo-designs.dk/prison-tattoos.html) . tattoo-designs.dk . 2010 [2004]. Archived from the original (http://www.tattoo-designs.dk/prison-tattoos.html) on October 30, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-37) Sidner, Sara (August 31, 2015). "Old mark of slavery is being used on sex trafficking victims" (https://www.cnn.com/2015/08/31/us/sex-trafficking-branding/index.html) . CNN . ^ (#cite_ref-38) McMenamy, Emma (October 19, 2014). "Pictured: Trafficked prostitutes BRANDED by pimps to show they 'own' them" (http://www.irishmirror.ie/news/irish-news/pictured-trafficked-prostitutes-branded-pimps-4461651) . Irish Mirror . Other sources [ edit ] Russian Criminal Tattoo Encyclopedia Volume I Danzig Baldaev, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 3-88243-920-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/3-88243-920-3) Russian Criminal Tattoo Encyclopedia Volume II Danzig Baldaev, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9550061-2-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-9550061-2-8) Russian Criminal Tattoo Encyclopedia Volume III Danzig Baldaev, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9550061-9-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-9550061-9-7) Russian Prison Tattoos: Codes of Authority, Domination and Struggle Alix Lambert, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7643-1764-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7643-1764-4) Further reading [ edit ] By, N. B. (1992, Jul 29). Russian convicts use body language of their very own --- prison tattoos spell out lives of crime and establish the hierarchy of inmates. Wall Street Journal. Glover, S. (1997, Oct 18). A marked man from tattoo to taps; violence: Out of jail and 35, Robert Torres was ready for a fresh start, but a gang insignia betrayed him. Los Angeles Times. Lina Goldberg, Gang Tattoos: Signs of Belonging and the Transience of Signs Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090727080630/http://www.linagoldberg.com/gangtattoos/) 2009-07-27 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Hiatt, F. (1993, Aug 23). Gulag no longer, but still the lower depths; for many of the 1 million Russian prisoners, life inside is `Equal to torture'. The Washington Post (Pre-1997 Fulltext). Top tattoos, [1] (http://www.wackyowl.com/world-top-5-criminal-tattoos/) Williams, D. (2000, May 29). Russia journal; prison gave an artist career in the skin trade. The Washington Post. Russian Criminal Tattoo Gallery With Photos And Meanings "Meanings of Russian Criminal Tattoo" (http://www.russiancriminaltattoo.com/) Wahlstedt, E. (2010). "Tattoos and criminality: a study on the origins and uses of tattoos in criminal subcultures" (https://www.academia.edu/2961508/Tattoos_in_criminal_culture) v t e Gangs (/wiki/Gang) List of criminal enterprises, gangs and syndicates (/wiki/List_of_criminal_enterprises,_gangs_and_syndicates) Aspects and components Population (/wiki/Gang_population) Tattoo Sign (/wiki/Gang_signal) Colors (/wiki/Gang_colors) Patch (/wiki/Gang_patch) Role Boss (/wiki/Crime_boss) List (/wiki/List_of_crime_bosses) Gangster (/wiki/Gangster) Gun moll (/wiki/Gun_moll) Henchman (/wiki/Henchman) Informant (/wiki/Informant) Types Banditry (/wiki/Banditry) Drug cartel (/wiki/Drug_cartel) Front organization (/wiki/Front_organization) Mafia (/wiki/Mafia) Organized crime (/wiki/Organized_crime) Outlaw motorcycle club (/wiki/Outlaw_motorcycle_club) Prison gang (/wiki/Prison_gang) By location Australia (/wiki/Gangs_in_Australia) Bangladesh (/wiki/Teen_gangs_in_Bangladesh) Canada (/wiki/Gangs_in_Canada) Germany (/wiki/Gangs_in_Germany) New Zealand (/wiki/Gangs_in_New_Zealand) United Kingdom (/wiki/Gangs_in_the_United_Kingdom) Glasgow (/wiki/List_of_gangs_in_Glasgow) Liverpool (/wiki/Gangs_in_Liverpool) United States (/wiki/Gangs_in_the_United_States) California (/wiki/List_of_California_street_gangs) Los Angeles (/wiki/List_of_criminal_gangs_in_Los_Angeles) Chicago (/wiki/Gangs_in_Chicago) Georgia (/wiki/Gangs_in_Georgia_(U.S._state)) Memphis (/wiki/Gangs_in_Memphis,_Tennessee) New Orleans (/wiki/List_of_New_Orleans_gangs) Prison gangs (/wiki/Prison_gangs_in_the_United_States) U.S. military (/wiki/Gang_presence_in_the_United_States_military) List (/wiki/List_of_gangs_in_the_United_States) India (/wiki/Organized_crime_in_India) Mexico (/wiki/List_of_gangs_in_Mexico) Netherlands (/wiki/List_of_gangs_in_the_Netherlands) Nigeria (/wiki/Confraternities_in_Nigeria) Pakistan (/wiki/Organised_crime_in_Pakistan) Panama (/wiki/Gangs_in_Panama) Peru (/wiki/Gangs_in_Peru) Philippines (/wiki/List_of_gangs_in_the_Philippines) Papua New Guinea (/wiki/Raskol_gangs) South Africa (/wiki/Gangs_in_South_Africa) Financial regulation Cryptocurrency and crime (/wiki/Cryptocurrency_and_crime) Hawala (/wiki/Hawala) Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gangs) Wiktionary (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Gang) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐7cd59cdcfb‐6tmbv Cached time: 20240718072427 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.576 seconds Real time usage: 0.778 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3867/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 125736/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 13674/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 13/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 160892/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.341/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7102125/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 667.713 1 -total 35.24% 235.289 1 Template:Reflist 20.88% 139.418 5 Template:Ambox 15.23% 101.680 1 Template:Gangs 15.04% 100.399 2 Template:Navbox 14.48% 96.708 5 Template:Cite_book 13.18% 88.029 1 Template:Multiple_issues 12.99% 86.740 1 Template:Short_description 10.13% 67.634 21 Template:Cite_web 7.90% 52.782 1 Template:More_citations_needed Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1065187-0!canonical and timestamp 20240718072427 and revision id 1235222806. 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For the Canadian football player, see Bob Haas (Canadian football) (/wiki/Bob_Haas_(Canadian_football)) . Robert D. Haas Born 1942 (age 81–82) San Francisco, California, US Alma mater University of California, Berkeley (/wiki/University_of_California,_Berkeley) Harvard Business School (/wiki/Harvard_Business_School) Occupations Businessman Philanthropist Known for President and CEO, Levi Strauss & Co. (/wiki/Levi_Strauss_%26_Co.) Spouse Colleen Gershon Children 1 Parents Evelyn Danzig Haas (/wiki/Evelyn_Danzig_Haas) Walter A. Haas Jr. (/wiki/Walter_A._Haas_Jr.) Family Walter J. Haas (/wiki/Walter_J._Haas) (brother) Peter E. Haas Jr. (/wiki/Peter_E._Haas_Jr.) (cousin) Jerome Alan Danzig (/wiki/Jerome_Alan_Danzig) (uncle) Sarah Palfrey (/wiki/Sarah_Palfrey) (aunt) Robert D. Haas (born 1942 [1] (#cite_note-1) ) is the chairman emeritus of Levi Strauss & Co. (/wiki/Levi_Strauss_%26_Co.) , son of Walter A. Haas Jr. (/wiki/Walter_A._Haas_Jr.) , and the great-great-grandnephew of the company's founder, Levi Strauss (/wiki/Levi_Strauss) . Biography [ edit ] Haas was born and raised in San Francisco, [ citation needed ] the son of Evelyn Danzig Haas (/wiki/Evelyn_Danzig_Haas) and Walter A. Haas Jr. (/wiki/Walter_A._Haas_Jr.) . [2] (#cite_note-SFGateObituary-2) Haas has two siblings: Elizabeth Jane "Betsy" Haas Eisenhardt (married to Roy Eisenhardt (/wiki/Roy_Eisenhardt) ); and Walter J. Haas (/wiki/Walter_J._Haas) , co-chairman of the Evelyn and Walter Haas Jr. Fund (/wiki/Evelyn_and_Walter_Haas_Jr._Fund) and former chairman and CEO of the Oakland Athletics (/wiki/Oakland_Athletics) . [2] (#cite_note-SFGateObituary-2) Haas received a Bachelor of Arts from the University of California, Berkeley (/wiki/University_of_California,_Berkeley) in 1964, where he was Phi Beta Kappa, and a Master of Business Administration (MBA) from Harvard Graduate School of Business (/wiki/Harvard_Graduate_School_of_Business) in 1968, where he was named a Baker Scholar. Haas served in the Peace Corps (/wiki/Peace_Corps) in the Ivory Coast from 1964 to 1966. He was a White House Fellow (/wiki/White_House_Fellow) from 1968 to 1969. After business school, Haas worked as an associate at McKinsey & Company (/wiki/McKinsey_%26_Company) from 1969 to 1972. Haas joined Levi Strauss & Co. (/wiki/Levi_Strauss_%26_Co.) in 1973 and worked in a variety of roles. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) He was elected to the board of directors in 1979 and as president and chief executive officer in 1984, until he stood down in 1999. He became chairman of the board in 1989 and retired from the board in 2014. Sales and profitability grew during the period of Haas's leadership, thanks largely to the expansion of Levi's branded apparel internationally and the creation and rapid growth of the Dockers (/wiki/Dockers_(brand)) brand of casual apparel. Under his leadership, Levi Strauss & Company carried on the company's engagement in corporate social responsibility: it became the first company to define and enforce workplace and safety standards (/wiki/Safety_standards) for employees. [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) From his appointment as CEO in 1984, Haas was instrumental in redefining the company's business strategy: He created a flatter organization – including the reduction of the workforce by one third. He also invested heavily in new product development, marketing, and technology. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In 1985, Haas returned the company to private ownership. At the time it was announced, the Levi's LBO (/wiki/Leveraged_buyout) was the largest in U.S. business history. During his tenure, Haas built upon the ethical traditions of Levi's. During the Great Depression (/wiki/Great_Depression_in_the_United_States) of the 1930s, Robert's grandfather, Walter A. Haas Sr. (/wiki/Walter_A._Haas_Sr.) , and great uncle, Daniel E. Koshland Sr. (/wiki/Daniel_E._Koshland_Sr.) , refused to lay off idled employees, risking bankruptcy. Instead they created work projects such as laying wooden floors in the company's factory in San Francisco. Walter Haas Jr. (/wiki/Walter_A._Haas_Jr.) and his brother Peter insisted on running integrated factories in the American South, giving equal treatment to all races during the era of segregation (/wiki/Racial_segregation_in_the_United_States) . [5] (#cite_note-5) During his tenure as leader at Levi Strauss, Haas tried to create a corporate culture in which tens of thousands of employees around the world were treated fairly and well. In addition, the company led the way in addressing a range of social and business issues. In 1982, the company became the first prominent business to become involved in addressing the problems of HIV/AIDS, at the time a largely unknown disease. Under his leadership the company pioneered corporate standards for dealing with HIV-positive employees and created employee AIDS awareness programs. [6] (#cite_note-6) Since the early 1980s the Levi Strauss Foundation has donated over US$ (/wiki/United_States_dollar) 60 million to AIDS-oriented non-profits. In 1991 Haas was the first person to be awarded the Edward N. Brandt Jr. (/wiki/Edward_Brandt_Jr.) Award from the National Leadership Coalition on AIDS (/wiki/HIV/AIDS) for his significant efforts in the fight against HIV (/wiki/HIV) and AIDS in the workplace. [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) In 1992, Levi Strauss became the first Fortune 500 (/wiki/Fortune_500) company to extend health-care benefits to the unmarried partners of its employees, starting the acceptance of this practice by other leading companies. [9] (#cite_note-:1-9) In that same year the company published the first-ever corporate standards governing the treatment of employees in contractor factories around the world. Since then, these guidelines have been largely adopted by the apparel and footwear industries. Philanthropy [ edit ] Active in support of his alma mater, he endowed the Haas Scholars Program [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) at Berkeley, which funds financial aid eligible, academically talented undergraduates to engage in a sustained research, field-study or creative project in the summer before and during their senior year at Berkeley. Each year, twenty Haas Scholars are selected from all disciplines and departments across the university on the basis of the merit and originality of their project proposals. He was a member of Berkeley's Board of Visitors, national giving chair for the Campaign for Berkeley, a board member of the Haas School, and, in 2007, the recipient of the Chancellor's Award. In 2008, Berkeley established the Robert D. Haas Chancellor’s Chair in Equity and Inclusion in his honor. He is a trustee of the Evelyn and Walter Haas Jr. Fund (/wiki/Evelyn_and_Walter_Haas_Jr._Fund) , a San Francisco-based private family foundation established in 1953 with the goal to form a righteous and supportive society that offers basic rights and opportunities to all people. [11] (#cite_note-11) Haas joined the fund's board of directors in 1992 and is chair of the audit committee. [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) He is a former member of the Trilateral Commission (/wiki/Trilateral_Commission) , trustee of the Ford Foundation (/wiki/Ford_Foundation) , member of the Council on Foreign Relations (/wiki/Council_on_Foreign_Relations) , and honorary trustee of the Brookings Institution (/wiki/Brookings_Institution) , the California Business Roundtable and the Bay Area Council (/wiki/Bay_Area_Council) . [12] (#cite_note-12) In addition, Haas is the former chairman of Stanford's Humanities and Sciences Council as well as the former president of the Levi Strauss Foundation. He is also a donor and supporter of Immigrants Rising. [13] (#cite_note-13) Accolades [ edit ] In 1998, President Bill Clinton (/wiki/Bill_Clinton) honored Haas with the first annual Ron Brown (/wiki/Ron_Brown) Leadership Award in recognition of the company's anti-racism (/wiki/Anti-racism) initiative called "Project Change". [9] (#cite_note-:1-9) [7] (#cite_note-:4-7) In 2009, Haas was selected as the Alumnus of the Year of the University of California, Berkeley (/wiki/University_of_California,_Berkeley) . [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) Personal life [ edit ] In 1974, he married attorney Colleen Gershon; they have a daughter, Elise. [10] (#cite_note-:2-10) [14] (#cite_note-14) See also [ edit ] Haas School of Business (/wiki/Haas_School_of_Business) at University of California, Berkeley (/wiki/University_of_California,_Berkeley) League of Women Voters (/wiki/League_of_Women_Voters) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Kirk H. Beetz. "Robert Haas" (http://www.referenceforbusiness.com/biography/F-L/Haas-Robert-1942.html) . Reference for Business . Retrieved August 21, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Cabanatuan, Michael (February 4, 2010). "Philanthropist, arts patron Evelyn Haas dies" (http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Philanthropist-arts-patron-Evelyn-Haas-dies-3201555.php) . San Francisco Gate . ^ Jump up to: a b "Values Make the Company: An Interview with Robert Haas" (https://hbr.org/1990/09/values-make-the-company-an-interview-with-robert-haas) . Harvard Business Review . September 1, 1990. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0017-8012 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0017-8012) . Retrieved February 25, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Board of Directors" (https://www.haasjr.org/about/board/robert-haas) . Haas, Jr . June 28, 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160201232829/http://www.haasjr.org:80/about/board/robert-haas) from the original on February 1, 2016 . Retrieved February 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Interactive Timeline" (https://www.haasjr.org/about/timeline) . Haas Jr . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160530183420/http://www.haasjr.org:80/about/timeline) from the original on May 30, 2016 . Retrieved February 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Here's Why Levi Strauss and Co. May Just Be the Best Place in America to Work if You're HIV-Positive" (http://www.hivplusmag.com/features/2015/04/15/here%E2%80%99s-why-levi-strauss-and-co-may-just-be-best-place-america-work-if-you%E2%80%99re-hiv) . www.hivplusmag.com . April 15, 2015 . Retrieved March 11, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "State of the Center" (https://med.stanford.edu/content/dam/sm/bioethics/documents/newsletter/SCBENewsletterAut2010.pdf) (PDF) . Stanford Center for Biomedical Ethics . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151204075906/http://med.stanford.edu/content/dam/sm/bioethics/documents/newsletter/SCBENewsletterAut2010.pdf) (PDF) from the original on December 4, 2015 . Retrieved March 1, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "City Doctor Helped Pioneer Nation's AIDS Response" (https://oklahoman.com/article/2414573/city-doctor-helped-pioneer-nations-aids-response/) . Oklahoman.com . December 6, 1992 . Retrieved April 22, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Board of Directors" (https://www.haasjr.org/about/board/robert-haas) . HAAS JR . June 28, 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160201232829/http://www.haasjr.org:80/about/board/robert-haas) from the original on February 1, 2016 . Retrieved March 11, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Haas Scholars" (https://hsp.berkeley.edu/) . Retrieved March 27, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Levi Strauss & Co.'s Bob Haas Honored by SF Pride" (https://www.levistrauss.com/2019/06/18/levi-strauss-co-s-bob-haas-honored-by-sf-pride/) . Levi Strauss & Co . June 18, 2019 . Retrieved April 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Robert D. Haas" (https://www.amacad.org/person/robert-d-haas) . American Academy of Arts & Sciences . Retrieved April 26, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Bob Haas" (https://immigrantsrising.org/story/bob-haas/) . IMMIGRANTS RISING . Retrieved April 26, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "About Robert and Colleen Haas" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180627144605/http://hsp.berkeley.edu/about-robert-and-colleen-haas) . University of California Berkeley (/wiki/University_of_California_Berkeley) Haas Scholars Fellowship Program. Archived from the original (https://hsp.berkeley.edu/about-robert-and-colleen-haas) on June 27, 2018 . Retrieved July 29, 2019 . The following year, he married Colleen Gershon, a graduate of Stanford School of Law and a criminal defense attorney with the civil rights firm of Garry, Dreyfus, McTernan, & Brotsky External links [ edit ] "Levi Strauss biography" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060113113152/http://www.levistrauss.com/about/bios/) . Archived from the original on January 13, 2006 . Retrieved June 21, 2005 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_bot:_original_URL_status_unknown) ) "Center for Responsible Business: People at The Center" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060913075953/https://www.haas.berkeley.edu/responsiblebusiness/people_founding_board_bob_haas.htm) . Archived from the original (https://www.haas.berkeley.edu/responsiblebusiness/people_founding_board_bob_haas.htm) on September 13, 2006 . Retrieved June 20, 2019 . Sweatshops dialogue (//americanhistory.si.edu/sweatshops/dialogue/5t5.htm) UC Berkeley (//hsp.berkeley.edu/) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Biography (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Business and economics (/wiki/Portal:Business_and_economics) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) San Francisco Bay Area (/wiki/Portal:San_Francisco_Bay_Area) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐ttnf8 Cached time: 20240713183120 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.372 seconds Real time usage: 0.486 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2605/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 36382/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3273/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 9/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 61972/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.232/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6288240/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 449.520 1 -total 32.87% 147.778 1 Template:Reflist 31.79% 142.920 1 Template:Infobox_person 26.91% 120.952 14 Template:Cite_web 8.72% 39.211 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 7.79% 35.005 21 Template:Pluralize_from_text 7.36% 33.100 1 Template:Portalbar 7.04% 31.651 1 Template:Birth_year_and_age 6.85% 30.785 1 Template:Citation_needed 6.72% 30.194 1 Template:For Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1073728-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713183120 and revision id 1221485882. 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American department store since 1826 Lord & Taylor Lord & Taylor Logo (2022–present) Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded 1826 (198 years ago) ( 1826 ) Defunct August 28, 2020 ; 3 years ago ( 2020-08-28 ) Fate Chapter 11 bankruptcy (/wiki/Chapter_11,_Title_11,_United_States_Code) ; Liquidation Headquarters 225 Liberty Street (/wiki/Liberty_Street_(Manhattan)) , New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , U.S. Products Clothing footwear jewelry beauty products fragrances bedding housewares Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Lord Family (1824–1916) Associated Dry Goods (/wiki/Associated_Dry_Goods) (1916–1986) The May Department Stores Company (/wiki/The_May_Department_Stores_Company) (1986–2005) Federated Department Stores (/wiki/Macy%27s,_Inc.) (2005–2006) NRDC Equity Partners (/wiki/NRDC_Equity_Partners) (2006–2019) Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) (2008–2019) Le Tote (/wiki/Le_Tote) (2019–2020) Saadia Group, LLC (2020–2020) Website lordandtaylor (http://lordandtaylor.com) .com (http://lordandtaylor.com) Lord & Taylor was the oldest-surviving department store (/wiki/Department_store) chain in the United States. The company operated full-line department stores from 1826 until it filed for bankruptcy in 2020. The following year, in 2021, it closed all its brick-and-mortar stores. Saadia Group acquired the Lord & Taylor intellectual property and relaunched the e-commerce (/wiki/E-commerce) website later that same year. [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-Reuters-3) [4] (#cite_note-:2-4) [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) History [ edit ] Under the Lord family, 1826–1916 [ edit ] The Scarsdale, New York (/wiki/Scarsdale,_New_York) Birdcage restaurant in 1948 The Scarsdale, New York store in 1948 English-born Samuel Lord (/wiki/Samuel_Lord) started a dry goods (/wiki/Dry_goods) business in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) in 1824 and opened the original store that would become Lord & Taylor in 1826, on Catherine Street in what is now Two Bridges, Manhattan (/wiki/Two_Bridges,_Manhattan) . The shop stocked hosiery, misses' wear, and cashmere shawls. [6] (#cite_note-gotham-6) His wife's cousin, George Washington Taylor, joined in 1834, and the store was named Lord & Taylor. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) The store continued to grow: it annexed 49 Catherine Street in 1832 and moved six years later to 61–63 Catherine Street. [8] (#cite_note-history2001-8) [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) James S. Taylor, Lord's brother-in-law, replaced George Taylor in 1845. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) The company erected a new building at Grand (/wiki/Grand_Street_(Manhattan)) and Chrystie Streets (/wiki/Chrystie_Street) in 1853 and moved into that location the following year. [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) Lord later named his son John T. Lord and his employee John S. Lyle as partners in the enterprise. [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) On August 29, 1859, Lord & Taylor opened a second store on Broadway (/wiki/Broadway_(Manhattan)) at Grand Street (/wiki/Grand_Street_(Manhattan)) in the modern-day SoHo (/wiki/SoHo,_Manhattan) neighborhood, keeping the older store open. [6] (#cite_note-gotham-6) [7] (#cite_note-:0-7) The new store was described as a "five-story marble emporium" and was among Broadway's first major new department stores since the A.T. Stewart (/wiki/Alexander_Turney_Stewart) building at 280 Broadway (/wiki/280_Broadway) was completed in 1846. At the same time, Lord & Taylor started participating in wholesaling (/wiki/Wholesaling) . [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) Lord retired in 1862. [6] (#cite_note-gotham-6) Samuel Lord Jr. and George Washington Taylor Lord succeeded the original partners in leading the company. [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) In 1870, the Broadway store moved uptown to a new cast-iron building (/wiki/Cast-iron_architecture) at Broadway and 20th Street (/wiki/20th_Street_(Manhattan)) , in the area known as the " Ladies' Mile (/wiki/Ladies%27_Mile_Historic_District) ". [6] (#cite_note-gotham-6) This store was designed by James H. Giles and included one of the first steam-powered passenger elevators. [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) The new store expanded around 1890 by annexing a building to the east. [10] (#cite_note-10) Lord & Taylor faced economic troubles after the Panic of 1873 (/wiki/Panic_of_1873) , though the original partners gave the company "a large loan" in 1879. By 1894, the company was fast-growing and would open stores on Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) in 1903 and 1906. [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) The downtown store continued to function, expanded through to Forsyth Street (/wiki/Forsyth_Street) and advertised until at least 1887 as a new building. Samuel Lord's estate sold the Grand Street store in 1901. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) The Lord & Taylor Building (/wiki/Lord_%26_Taylor_Building) , the Starrett & van Vleck (/wiki/Starrett_%26_van_Vleck) -designed Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) store and headquarters opened between 38th and 39th streets on February 24, 1914. [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) It touted many modern improvements, including an electric delivery vehicle garage; elevator and hidden conveyor systems for moving goods, people, showcases, and trash, and for loading and unloading trucks; and an on-site electrical generation and heating system. The Broadway store was quickly sold after the new store opened on March 26. [21] (#cite_note-21) The new store became a New York City Landmark (/wiki/List_of_New_York_City_Designated_Landmarks_in_Manhattan) on October 30, 2007. [9] (#cite_note-desrep-9) Lord & Taylor announced in November 1915 that it would sell off its wholesale business. [22] (#cite_note-22) Under Associated Dry Goods, 1916–1986 [ edit ] The Scarsdale, New York store in 1961 The Mizner Park (/wiki/Mizner_Park) store in Boca Raton, Florida (/wiki/Boca_Raton,_Florida) in 2019 A founding unit of Associated Dry Goods (/wiki/Associated_Dry_Goods) , Lord & Taylor was considered to be its crown jewel (/wiki/Crown_jewel) . In 1945, Dorothy Shaver (/wiki/Dorothy_Shaver) became the first woman to head a major retail establishment in the United States as president of Lord & Taylor. [23] (#cite_note-amhistory.si.edu-23) As vice president working with the well-known design firm of Raymond Loewy (/wiki/Raymond_Loewy) Associates, she opened what is credited as the first-ever branch store, in Manhasset, New York (/wiki/Manhasset,_New_York) . Unlike earlier forays into the suburbs that consisted of smaller boutique-style shops, this merchandising effort became the model for modern suburban shopping. The store consisted of 66 individual shops. Lord & Taylor's relationship with Raymond Loewy Associates continued until 1969, following the construction of the Stamford, Connecticut (/wiki/Stamford,_Connecticut) store (designed by Loewy Vice President Andrew Geller (/wiki/Andrew_Geller) ). [24] (#cite_note-24) Many of Lord & Taylor's special services, including personal shoppers, were introduced while Shaver presided. [25] (#cite_note-25) During this period she introduced the Andrew Geller handwritten logo and the American Beauty Rose as icons of the store. Shaver died in 1959. [23] (#cite_note-amhistory.si.edu-23) [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) William J. Lippincott was elected chairman and chief executive in 1972. His obituary in The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) read: "In his years as president and chairman, Lord & Taylor moved beyond its traditional territory in the northeast to open stores in Atlanta, Houston, and Dallas and four stores in Illinois." [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) A management shakeup ousted him in 1976. [30] (#cite_note-30) Under the leadership of CEO Joseph E. Brooks during the 1970s, the company aggressively expanded into Texas (/wiki/Texas) , Illinois (/wiki/Illinois) , and Michigan (/wiki/Michigan) ; throughout the 1980s, South Florida (/wiki/South_Florida) saw 11 stores opened in quick succession. Under May Department Stores Company, 1986–2005 [ edit ] When the May Company (/wiki/May_Department_Stores) acquired ADG in 1986, it was assumed that May bought it just for the luxury division. [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) The chain partially withdrew from the oil-shocked Texas and southern Florida markets in 1989–1990 after its 1986 acquisition by May. [33] (#cite_note-33) Under May, the majority of the upscale Hahne & Co. (/wiki/Hahne_%26_Co.) , Wanamaker's (/wiki/Wanamaker%27s) , and Woodward & Lothrop (/wiki/Woodward_%26_Lothrop) chains were refitted and converted into Lord & Taylor. [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) Jane T. Elfers (/wiki/Jane_T._Elfers) became Lord & Taylor's second female president in June 2000. [37] (#cite_note-37) Former Neiman Marcus (/wiki/Neiman_Marcus) executive, Brendan Hoffman replaced her in October 2008, when Elfer's contract had expired. [38] (#cite_note-38) A third female president, Bonnie Brooks (/wiki/Bonnie_Brooks) , took over in 2011, and a fourth female president, Liz Rodbell, took over in 2013. [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) The Lord & Taylor Building (/wiki/Lord_%26_Taylor_Building) flagship store on Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue_(New_York_City)) in 2008 Federated Department Stores, now Macy's Inc (/wiki/Macy%27s_Inc) , acquired May Department Stores on August 30, 2005. On January 12, 2006, Federated chairman, president, and CEO Terry Lundgren (/wiki/Terry_Lundgren) announced that Lord & Taylor would be sold by the end of the year. [41] (#cite_note-41) In a move that took advantage of valuable real estate, Federated announced on March 10, 2006, that seven conflicting Lord & Taylor locations would be sold or downscale into Macy's. [42] (#cite_note-SLBJ-42) The legendary Center City, Philadelphia store, the former flagship of the John Wanamaker (/wiki/Wanamaker%27s) chain, opened after a one-month renovation as Macy's City Center (/wiki/Macy%27s_City_Center) on August 1, 2006. Under NRDC Equity Partners, 2006–2008 [ edit ] On June 22, 2006, NRDC Equity Partners, LLC (/wiki/NRDC_Equity_Partners) announced it would purchase Lord & Taylor for $1.2 billion after Federated converted and sold the previously announced locations; the sale was completed in October 2006. [43] (#cite_note-43) Federated continued to service Lord & Taylor consumer credit accounts in an agreement with NRDC under the terms of its sale until mid-2007. [44] (#cite_note-44) Under Hudson's Bay Company, 2008–2019 [ edit ] The Lord & Taylor Building (/wiki/Lord_%26_Taylor_Building) at 424 Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue_(New_York_City)) The Fifth Avenue flagship store in 1952 On July 16, 2008, NRDC Equity Partners (/wiki/NRDC_Equity_Partners) announced that it had purchased the 338-year-old Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) (HBC) for an undisclosed price to expand internationally and positioned Lord & Taylor under HBC. The combined HBC, as of February 2018, consisted of Hudson's Bay (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_(retailer)) and Home Outfitters (/wiki/Home_Outfitters) in Canada, Galeria Kaufhof (/wiki/Galeria_Kaufhof) in Germany, and Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) in the United States. [45] (#cite_note-45) [46] (#cite_note-46) HBC committed to spending an additional $250 million upgrading stores. The Fifth Avenue flagship store (/wiki/Lord_%26_Taylor_Building) received a $150 million ($205 million in 2023) update in 2010. [47] (#cite_note-47) In 2011, an ultra-modern concept store opened in Westchester County at the new Ridge Hill Mall (/wiki/Ridge_Hill_Mall) . During this time, locations such as Manhasset (/wiki/Manhasset,_NY) , Garden City (/wiki/Garden_City,_NY) , Bala Cynwyd (/wiki/Bala_Cynwyd,_PA) , Eastchester (/wiki/Scarsdale,_NY) , and Stamford (/wiki/Stamford,_Connecticut) all saw ultra-modern style renovations and upgrades. In 2012, a large outpost opened at The Mall at Rockingham Park (/wiki/The_Mall_at_Rockingham_Park) . In 2013, a contemporary-style outpost opened at Mizner Park (/wiki/Mizner_Park) in Boca Raton, Florida (/wiki/Boca_Raton,_Florida) . In 2014, a $20 million ($25.4 million in 2023) contemporary outpost, modeled after the Boca Raton location, opened at Crossgates Mall (/wiki/Crossgates_Mall) near Albany, NY (/wiki/Albany,_NY) . Around this time, a store was announced to open alongside Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) in the luxury wing of the American Dream Mall (/wiki/American_Dream_Meadowlands) . In March 2017, Lord & Taylor partnered with Brideside.com to launch an in-store bridal shop.In April 2017, Lord & Taylor completed a $12 million ($14.7 million in 2023) renovation plan at the Fifth Avenue store. [48] (#cite_note-48) In October 2017, after an attempt made to build a skyscraper above the Fifth Avenue store, it was announced the building would be sold in a joint partnership to WeWork (/wiki/WeWork) for $850 million ($1.04 billion in 2023). WeWork was set to occupy the uppermost floors of the building, with the rest remaining a flagship space for Lord & Taylor. This was part of a trend on Wall Street to maximize profits and real estate value. [49] (#cite_note-49) In February 2019, the sale completed for $725 million ($852 million in 2023) in cash and the remainder in equity, forming a joint venture with Lord & Taylor as minority owners. Industry observers connected the sale of the flagship store to intense activist investors and opportunity seen to monetize real estate at HBC. [50] (#cite_note-50) [51] (#cite_note-51) [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) [55] (#cite_note-55) [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) On April 1, 2018, the Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) gave notice of the theft of customers' credit and debit cards due to a hacking (/wiki/Hacker) incident. A hacking group known as JokerStash or Fin7 attempted to sell the information from five million stolen customer credentials on dark web (/wiki/Dark_web) sites during the last week of March 2018. The company noted that most compromised records were from Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) customers. The Hudson's Bay Company noted that customers would not be liable for any charges incurred due to this breach, and they will offer no-cost credit report monitoring (/wiki/Credit_report_monitoring) and identity protection services. [58] (#cite_note-58) In May 2018, Walmart (/wiki/Walmart) began carrying Lord & Taylor fashions on their website to modernize Walmart and position it more upscale. This was a bold move praised by many as being innovative. [59] (#cite_note-59) [60] (#cite_note-60) [61] (#cite_note-61) Under Le Tote, 2019–2020 [ edit ] The Manhasset, New York (/wiki/Manhasset,_New_York) store on Long Island (/wiki/Long_Island) in 2020 In August 2019, Le Tote, Inc. purchased the retailer for CA$99.5 million ($75 million) in cash on closing and an additional CA$33.2 million ($25 million) two years later. HBC was to get a 25% equity stake in Le Tote. [62] (#cite_note-62) [63] (#cite_note-63) [64] (#cite_note-64) The buyer would retain the stores' inventory, with an estimated value of CA$284.2 million. The deal, expected to close before year-end, required HBC to pay the stores' rent for at least three years, at an estimated CA$77 million ($58 million) cash per year. [65] (#cite_note-65) [66] (#cite_note-66) [67] (#cite_note-67) The acquisition was completed in November 2019. [68] (#cite_note-68) In November 2019, the sale to Le Tote was finalized and it was reported that all 38 Lord & Taylor brick-and-mortar locations would transfer ownership. [69] (#cite_note-69) [70] (#cite_note-70) Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic [ edit ] The Lord & Taylor store in Boston (/wiki/Boston) 's Back Bay (/wiki/Back_Bay,_Boston) after the announcement that the company had filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy (/wiki/Chapter_11,_Title_11,_United_States_Code) Lord & Taylor's stores were forced to close due to executive (/wiki/Executive_(government)) state orders (/wiki/State_orders) by the local and state governments (/wiki/State_governments) on non-essential retail (/wiki/Retail) by Wednesday, March 18, 2020, due to the COVID-19 pandemic in the United States (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic_in_the_United_States) . While it took some time for the locations to reopen to the public (/wiki/Public) , some of its closed U.S. stores were looted following the murder of George Floyd (/wiki/Murder_of_George_Floyd) . [71] (#cite_note-71) [72] (#cite_note-72) [73] (#cite_note-73) Lord & Taylor began the process of reopening on Friday, May 15, 2020, with two of its locations in Florida (/wiki/Florida) and New Hampshire (/wiki/New_Hampshire) allowed to reopen. [74] (#cite_note-74) All stores resumed operations by July 3, 2020. [75] (#cite_note-75) On August 2, 2020, it was reported that Lord & Taylor and Le Tote (/wiki/Le_Tote) had filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection due to the COVID-19 pandemic in the United States (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic_in_the_United_States) . [76] (#cite_note-76) [77] (#cite_note-77) On August 3, it was reported that the company would simultaneously solicit bids for its Le Tote (/wiki/Le_Tote) and Lord & Taylor businesses. [78] (#cite_note-PRNewswire-78) [79] (#cite_note-79) [80] (#cite_note-80) On October 15, 2020, Saadia Group, LLC announced it would acquire Lord & Taylor which would then transform the retailer into a digital first format. [81] (#cite_note-81) [82] (#cite_note-82) On Tuesday, October 20, 2020, Lord & Taylor's traditional brick-and-mortar format began ceasing operations for at least the foreseeable future. [83] (#cite_note-83) On Tuesday, December 29, 2020, 18 out of 38 stores had closed and about a month later, the freestanding store in Bala Cynwyd (/wiki/Bala_Cynwyd) shuttered. Finally, on Saturday, February 27, 2021, the remaining 19 stores closed; these stores would have closed on Sunday, but due to the Bergen County (/wiki/Bergen_County) Blue Laws (/wiki/Blue_Laws) that occur on Sunday for the Westfield Garden State Plaza (/wiki/Westfield_Garden_State_Plaza) and Fashion Center (/wiki/Fashion_Center) locations both in Paramus, New Jersey (/wiki/Paramus,_New_Jersey) , it was decided to close all of the stores on Saturday. [84] (#cite_note-84) Saadia Group, since 2020 [ edit ] The Tysons Corner Center (/wiki/Tysons_Corner_Center) store in 2015 In October 2020, the investment firm Saadia Group acquired Lord & Taylor; they transformed the retailer into a digital-first format. In fall 2022, an ad campaign called "Fall Fete" debuted alongside a new logo. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) SaksWorks [ edit ] In August 2021, it was announced that SaksWorks (/wiki/SaksWorks) , a partnership with WeWork (/wiki/WeWork) and a spinoff (/wiki/Spin-off_(media)) of the Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) brand, would provide co-working spaces (/wiki/Co-working_spaces) for technology startups and services for other enterprises. It was predicted that SaksWorks would fill about 90% of the former Lord & Taylor brick-and-mortar locations since Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) still owned the real estate (/wiki/Real_estate) of the properties. [85] (#cite_note-85) Logos [ edit ] Logo handwritten by Andrew Geller (/wiki/Andrew_Geller) , used before 2015 and during the Le Tote (/wiki/Le_Tote) ownership in 2020 A slightly altered Logo introduced by Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) (former parent company), in use from 2015–2019 The 2015–2019 era logo originally introduced by Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) (former parent company); was reissued/reused by Saadia Group from 2021–2022 Logo introduced by Hudson's Bay Company (/wiki/Hudson%27s_Bay_Company) (former parent company), in use from 2019–2020 Gallery [ edit ] Lord & Taylor in Westchester Lord & Taylor in Westchester Lord & Taylor in Westchester Lord & Taylor in Westchester Lord & Taylor in Westchester Lord & Taylor in Westchester Lord & Taylor in Westchester Catharine Street store 20th Street and Broadway Lord & Taylor Flagship at 424 Fifth Avenue Exterior view of the remaining section of the 1870 store at Broadway and 20th Street. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-:1_1-0) Jordan Valinsky (August 27, 2020). "Lord & Taylor is closing all of its stores after 194 years in business" (https://www.cnn.com/2020/08/27/business/lord-and-taylor-store-closures-bankruptcy/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved May 2, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Iconic but troubled Lord & Taylor sold to clothing rental subscription company Le Tote" (https://www.cnn.com/2019/08/28/business/lord-taylor-sale-le-tote/index.html) . CNN . August 28, 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-Reuters_3-0) DiNapoli, Jessica (May 5, 2020). "Exclusive: Lord & Taylor to liquidate its stores as soon as they reopen – sources" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-lord-taylor-liquidation-exclusive-idUSKBN22H2SJ) . Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . Retrieved May 19, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-:2_4-0) "Saadia Group Plans to Buy Lord & Taylor's Assets for $12 Million" (https://news.bloomberglaw.com/bankruptcy-law/saadia-group-plans-to-buy-lord-taylors-assets-for-12-million) . Bloomberg Law . Retrieved May 2, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Taylor, Lord &. "The Saadia Group Announces the Official Digital Launch of Lord & Taylor" (https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/the-saadia-group-announces-the-official-digital-launch-of-lord--taylor-301270838.html) . www.prnewswire.com (Press release) . Retrieved May 2, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Burrows, Edwin G. (/wiki/Edwin_G._Burrows) and Wallace, Mike (/wiki/Mike_Wallace_(historian)) (1999). Gotham: A History of New York City to 1898 (/wiki/Gotham:_A_History_of_New_York_City_to_1898) . New York: Oxford University Press (/wiki/Oxford_University_Press) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-195-11634-8 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d "America's Successful Men of Affairs:An Encyclopedia of Contemporaneous Biography (Samuel Lord entry)" (https://www.ancestry.com/boards/surnames.lord/43.153/mb.ashx) . Ancestry.com . New York: Tribune. 1895. p. 403. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170730024738/https://www.ancestry.com/boards/surnames.lord/43.153/mb.ashx) from the original on July 30, 2017 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-history2001_8-0) The History of Lord & Taylor, 1826–2001 . New York: Guinn Company. 2001. pp. 5, 11, 13, 14, 16–17, 19, 21–23, 25, 34, 37, 39. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Percival, Marianne (October 30, 2007) Lord & Taylor Building Designation Report (http://www.nyc.gov/html/lpc/downloads/pdf/reports/Lord_and_Taylor.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170206210247/http://www.nyc.gov/html/lpc/downloads/pdf/reports/Lord_and_Taylor.pdf) February 6, 2017, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission (/wiki/New_York_City_Landmarks_Preservation_Commission) . pp. 1–2. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Attractive to Shoppers (Lord & Taylor)" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10779070/attractive_to_shoppers_lord_taylor/) . The New York Times . October 15, 1891. p. 8 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Lord & Taylor (Advertisement)" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10780598/lord_taylor_advertisement_showing/) . The New York Times . March 10, 1879 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 – via Newspapers.com . ^ (#cite_ref-12) The Christian Union . New York: J.B. Ford & Company. April 17, 1878. p. 331 – via Google Books. ^ (#cite_ref-13) The Evening Post Record of Real Estate Sales in Greater New York . January 1, 1901. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Dresses, Furs, and Bonnets (Lord & Taylor)" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10781490/dresses_furs_and_bonnets_lord/) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . October 8, 1880. p. 8 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 – via Newspapers.com . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Our New Building – Lord & Taylor" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10781714/our_new_building_lord_taylor/) . The New York Times . December 5, 1887. p. 8 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 – via Newspapers.com . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Morrone, Francis (December 27, 2007) "A Landmark Department Store" (http://www.nysun.com/arts/landmark-department-store/68609/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210628064142/https://www.nysun.com/arts/landmark-department-store/68609/) June 28, 2021, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) The New York Sun (/wiki/The_New_York_Sun) ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Dear Lord & Taylor, Retail's Resting Place" (https://observer.com/2006/09/dear-lord-taylor-retails-resting-place/) . Observer . September 11, 2006 . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Vintage Fashion Guild : Label Resource : Lord & Taylor" (https://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/lord-taylor/) . vintagefashionguild.org . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Fifth Avenue's Wonderful Evolution As Shopping Center" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10781998/fifth_avenues_wonderful_evolution_as/) . The New York Times . February 22, 1914. p. 71 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 – via Newspapers.com . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "The New Store Opens Tuesday (Lord & Taylor)" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10782080/the_new_store_opens_tuesday_lord/) . The New York Times . February 22, 1914. p. 5 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Lord & Taylor's Old Corner Sold" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/10782387/lord_taylors_old_corner_sold/) . The New York Times . March 27, 1914. p. 18 . Retrieved May 5, 2017 – via Newspapers.com . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Lord & Taylor Quit Wholesale Field; Directors Authorize Sale of That Branch of Their Business, and J. H. Emery May Buy It. To Extend Retail Trade Final Assent Must Come from Stockholders, Who Are to Meet on Next Tuesday" (https://www.nytimes.com/1915/11/27/archives/lord-taylor-quit-wholesale-field-directors-authorize-sale-of-that.html) . The New York Times . November 27, 1915. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved October 11, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Dorothy Shaver (1893–1959), The First Lady of Retailing" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160305023026/http://amhistory.si.edu/archives/WIB-tour/dorothy_shaver.pdf) (PDF) . National Museum of American History (/wiki/National_Museum_of_American_History) Archives Center. Archived from the original (http://amhistory.si.edu/archives/WIB-tour/dorothy_shaver.pdf) (PDF) on March 5, 2016 . Retrieved May 6, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Cooper Union Alumni Association | Alumni Profile: Andrew Geller, AR'49, and Shirley Geller, A'44" (http://cooperalumni.org/alumni-profile-andrew-geller-ar49-and-shirley-geller-a44/) . cooperalumni.org . September 21, 2015 . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Amerian, Stephanie (June 1, 2009). "Fifth Avenue's First Lady: Dorothy Shaver" (https://escholarship.org/uc/item/7w18h2jx) . CSW Update Newsletter . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Miss Shaver Dead; Led Lord & Taylor; Dorothy Shaver Is Dead at 66; Headed Lord & Taylor Since' 45" (https://www.nytimes.com/1959/06/29/archives/miss-shaver-dead-led-lord-taylor-dorothy-shaver-is-dead-at-66.html) . The New York Times . June 29, 1959. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Retail Trade: Fifth Avenue's First Lady" (http://content.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,886788,00.html) . Time . December 31, 1945. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0040-781X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0040-781X) . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Metro Atlanta Lord & Taylor stores closing" (https://www.bizjournals.com/atlanta/stories/2003/07/28/daily44.html) . Atlanta Business Chronicle . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "W. J. Lippincott, 73; Headed Lord & Taylor" (https://www.nytimes.com/1992/05/07/obituaries/w-j-lippincott-73-headed-lord-taylor.html) . The New York Times . May 7, 1992. p. B17 . Retrieved January 2, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "New Lord & Taylor Team Plans Expansion" (https://www.nytimes.com/1972/01/11/archives/new-lord-taylor-team-plans-expansion-new-team-at-lord-taylor.html) . The New York Times . January 11, 1972. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Hilsberg to Run May Division" (http://articles.latimes.com/1986-10-16/business/fi-5818_1_chief-executive) . Los Angeles Times . October 16, 1986. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0458-3035 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0458-3035) . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Associated Merges With May" (http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1986-10-04/business/8603140765_1_discount-stores-largest-department-store-retailer-lord-taylor) . Chicago Tribune . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Mervyn's to acquire five Lord & Taylor stores in Florida" (https://www.upi.com/Archives/1990/11/19/Mervyns-to-acquire-five-Lord-Taylor-stores-in-Florida/3597658990800/) . UPI . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Pressler, Margaret Webb (August 29, 1995). "At Woodies, Taking Stock Before a Final Sales Blitz" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/business/1995/08/29/at-woodies-taking-stock-before-a-final-sales-blitz/525795dd-39b3-4c00-a0aa-112da1e63930/) . The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0190-8286 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0190-8286) . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "Hello, Lord & Taylor" (https://www.bizjournals.com/philadelphia/stories/1997/08/11/editorial3.html) . Philadelphia Business Journal . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Barmash, Isadore (January 12, 1989). 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"Retail's Changing World: Federated Opts to Put Lord & Taylor on Block" (http://wwd.com/business-news/financial/retail-s-changing-world-federated-opts-to-put-lord-taylor-on-block-549318/) . WWD . Retrieved May 23, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-SLBJ_42-0) Tritto, Christopher (March 10, 2006). "Lord & Taylor closing at Galleria, West County malls" (http://stlouis.bizjournals.com/stlouis/stories/2006/03/06/daily51.html) . St. Louis Business Journal (/wiki/American_City_Business_Journals) . Retrieved January 2, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "Federated Agrees to Sell Lord & Taylor to NRDC Equity Partners; Transaction Expected to Close in Third Quarter of 2006" (http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=84477&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=875337&highlight=) (Press release). Federated Department Stores, Inc. June 22, 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Federated Sells Lord & Taylor to NRDC" (https://www.fastcompany.com/676892/federated-sells-lord-taylor-nrdc) . 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"Not a 'clean exit': Hudson's Bay sells historic Lord & Taylor for $133 million" (https://business.financialpost.com/news/retail-marketing/not-a-clean-exit-hudsons-bay-sells-lord-taylor-for-133-million) . Financial Post . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191203141031/https://business.financialpost.com/news/retail-marketing/not-a-clean-exit-hudsons-bay-sells-lord-taylor-for-133-million) from the original on December 3, 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-67) Chris Isidore and Nathaniel Meyersohn (August 28, 2019). "Iconic but troubled Lord & Taylor sold to clothing rental subscription company Le Tote" (https://www.cnn.com/2019/08/28/business/lord-taylor-sale-le-tote/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved September 3, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) "Done Deal: Le Tote completes Lord & Taylor acquisition; names new president" (https://chainstoreage.com/done-deal-le-tote-completes-lord-taylor-acquisition-names-new-president) . Chain Store Age . November 8, 2019 . 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June 1, 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-72) "A running list of the Boston businesses that have been vandalized, looted | Boston.com" (https://www.boston.com/news/local-news-2/2020/06/01/boston-businesses-looted-vandalized-list) . www.boston.com . ^ (#cite_ref-73) Lewis, Kevin (May 31, 2020). "Looters steal gobs of Rx medicine from CVS in Friendship Heights, many others stores hit" (https://wjla.com/news/local/video-friendship-heights-cvs-robbed-looted-during-protests) . WJLA (/wiki/WJLA) . ^ (#cite_ref-74) Lisicky, Michael (March 22, 2020). "There Is Still A Little Life Left In Lord & Taylor, Two Locations Reopen" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/michaellisicky/2020/05/22/there-is-still-a-little-life-left-in-lord--taylor-two-locations-reopen/?sh=eef501d13bba) . Forbes . Retrieved March 2, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-75) Seltzer, Sarah M. (September 3, 2020). "Opinion | Goodbye to Lord & Taylor, and the Way We Used to Shop" (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/03/opinion/sunday/lord-taylor-closed.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-76) Lisicky, Michael (August 2, 2020). "Lord & Taylor Surprises Shoppers With 'Store Closing' Signs At Many Locations, Files For Bankruptcy" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/michaellisicky/2020/08/02/lord--taylor-surprises-sunday-shoppers-with-store-closing-signs-at-many-locations/) . Forbes . Retrieved August 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-77) Clark, Evan (August 2, 2020). "Le Tote, Lord & Taylor File Bankruptcy" (https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/le-tote-lord-taylor-file-bankruptcy-chapter-11-1203692453/) . Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . Retrieved August 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-PRNewswire_78-0) Hilco Global (/wiki/Hilco_Global) (August 3, 2020). "Le Tote And Lord + Taylor To Continue Sale Process And Commence Store Closings At Certain Stores Through Voluntary Chapter 11 Filing" (https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/le-tote-and-lord--taylor-to-continue-sale-process-and-commence-store-closings-at-certain-stores-through-voluntary-chapter-11-filing-301104760.html) . PR Newswire (/wiki/PR_Newswire) (Press release) . Retrieved August 5, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-79) Hilco Merchant Resources, LLC (/wiki/Hilco_Global) (August 20, 2020). "Le Tote and Lord + Taylor Provides Update on Restructuring Process" (https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/le-tote-and-lord--taylor-provides-update-on-restructuring-process-301115540.html) . PR Newswire (Press release) . Retrieved August 20, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-80) Valinsky, Jordan (August 27, 2020). "Lord & Taylor is closing all of its stores after 194 years in business" (https://www.cnn.com/2020/08/27/business/lord-and-taylor-store-closures-bankruptcy/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved August 27, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-81) "Lord & Taylor's final sale: Who will buy all that real estate?" (https://www.marketplace.org/2020/08/28/lord-taylors-final-sale-who-will-buy-all-that-real-estate/) . Marketplace . August 28, 2020 . Retrieved October 29, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-82) "Lord & Taylor, Le Tote $12 Million Asset Sale to Saadia Approved" (https://news.bloomberglaw.com/bankruptcy-law/lord-taylor-le-tote-12-million-asset-sale-to-saadia-approved) . Bloomberg Law . Retrieved October 29, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-83) "Online only, Lord & Taylor unveils fall merchandising, new logo" (https://www.retaildive.com/news/lord-taylor-fall-merchandising-new-logo/632427/) . Retail Dive . ^ (#cite_ref-84) Lisicky, Michael. "Lord & Taylor Locks Its Doors For The Last Time, After 195 Years" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/michaellisicky/2021/02/27/lord--taylor-locks-its-doors-for-the-last-time-after-195-years/) . Forbes . ^ (#cite_ref-85) "Innovative Workspace Company Releases Plans to Fill Large Empty Spaces in Connecticut Including Danbury" (https://i95rock.com/york-factory-releases-extensive-plans-to-fill-4-massive-empty-connecticut-spaces-including-danbury/) . August 5, 2021. External links [ edit ] Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) New York City portal (/wiki/Portal:New_York_City) Wikimedia Commons has media related to Lord & Taylor (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lord_%26_Taylor) . 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This is a list of notable (/wiki/Notability_in_Wikipedia) fashion designers (/wiki/Fashion_designer) sorted by nationality. It includes designers of haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) and ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) . For haute couture only, see the list of grands couturiers (/wiki/List_of_grands_couturiers) . For footwear (/wiki/Footwear) designers, see the list of footwear designers (/wiki/List_of_footwear_designers) . Argentina Sofia Achaval de Montaigu (/wiki/Sofia_Achaval_de_Montaigu) Delia Cancela (/wiki/Delia_Cancela) Alan Faena (/wiki/Alan_Faena) Franc Fernandez (/wiki/Franc_Fernandez) Gustavo Cadile (/wiki/Gustavo_Cadile) Jazmín Chebar (/wiki/Jazm%C3%ADn_Chebar) Paco Jamandreu (/wiki/Paco_Jamandreu) Dalila Puzzovio (/wiki/Dalila_Puzzovio) Elsa Serrano (/wiki/Elsa_Serrano) Vanessa Seward (/wiki/Vanessa_Seward) Aitor Throup (/wiki/Aitor_Throup) Pilar Zeta (/wiki/Pilar_Zeta) Armenia Emin Bolbolian (/wiki/SINOIAN) Kevork Shadoyan (/wiki/Kevork_Shadoyan) Australia Prue Acton (/wiki/Prue_Acton) Peter Alexander (/wiki/Peter_Alexander_(fashion_designer)) Yeojin Bae (/wiki/Yeojin_Bae) Jenny Bannister (/wiki/Jenny_Bannister) Nadia Bartel (/wiki/Nadia_Bartel) Zara Bate (/wiki/Zara_Bate) Lucas Bowers (/wiki/Ericaamerica) Leigh Bowery (/wiki/Leigh_Bowery) Linda Britten (/wiki/Linda_Britten) Ray Brown (/wiki/Ray_Brown_(designer)) Sarah-Jane Clarke (/wiki/Sarah-Jane_Clarke) Claudia Chan Shaw (/wiki/Claudia_Chan_Shaw) Flora Cheong-Leen (/wiki/Flora_Cheong-Leen) Susien Chong (/wiki/Susien_Chong) Christopher Chronis (/wiki/Christopher_Chronis) Lorna Jane Clarkson (/wiki/Lorna_Jane_Clarkson) Kay Cohen (/wiki/Kay_Cohen) Wayne Cooper (/wiki/Wayne_Cooper_(fashion_designer)) Keri Craig-Lee (/wiki/Keri_Craig-Lee) John Crittle (/wiki/John_Crittle) Liz Davenport (/wiki/Liz_Davenport) Rachel Dean (/wiki/Rachel_Dean) Collette Dinnigan (/wiki/Collette_Dinnigan) Leona Edmiston (/wiki/Leona_Edmiston) Pip Edwards (/wiki/Pip_Edwards) Christopher Essex (/wiki/Christopher_Essex) Enid Gilchrist (/wiki/Enid_Gilchrist) Nicola Finetti (/wiki/Nicola_Finetti) Camilla Freeman-Topper (/wiki/Camilla_and_Marc) Frederick Fox (/wiki/Frederick_Fox_(milliner)) Camilla Franks (/wiki/Camilla_Franks) Joshua Goot (/wiki/Joshua_Goot) Lisa Gorman (/wiki/Lisa_Gorman) Juli Grbac (/wiki/Juli_Grbac) Melanie Greensmith (/wiki/Melanie_Greensmith) Alannah Hill (/wiki/Alannah_Hill) Elvie Hill (/wiki/Elvie_Hill) Jessie Hill (/wiki/Jessie_Hill_(fashion_designer)) Lisa Ho (/wiki/Lisa_Ho) Jennifer Hocking (/wiki/Jennifer_Hocking) Akira Isogawa (/wiki/Akira_Isogawa) Linda Jackson (/wiki/Linda_Jackson_(designer)) Peter Jackson (/wiki/Peter_Jackson_(fashion_designer)) Beril Jents (/wiki/Beril_Jents) Rebecca Judd (/wiki/Rebecca_Judd) Storm Keating (/wiki/Storm_Keating) Jenny Kee (/wiki/Jenny_Kee) Steven Khalil (/wiki/Steven_Khalil) Dion Lee (/wiki/Dion_Lee) Bettina Liano (/wiki/Bettina_Liano) Jacob Luppino (/wiki/J%27Aton_Couture) Virginia Martin (/wiki/Virginia_Martin_(fashion_designer)) Alice McCall (/wiki/Alice_McCall) Toni Matičevski (/wiki/Toni_Mati%C4%8Devski) Dannii Minogue (/wiki/Dannii_Minogue) Peter Morrissey (/wiki/Peter_Morrissey) Ivy May Pearce (/wiki/Ivy_May_Pearce) Alex Perry (/wiki/Alex_Perry) Katie Perry (/wiki/Katie_Perry) Anthony Pittorino (/wiki/J%27Aton_Couture) Neville Quist (/wiki/Neville_Quist) Tamara Ralph (/wiki/Tamara_Ralph) Joe Saba (/wiki/Joe_Saba) Bruno Schiavi (/wiki/Bruno_Schiavi) Bob Schulz (/wiki/Bob_Schulz_(fashion_designer)) Sheila Scotter (/wiki/Sheila_Scotter) Dan Single (/wiki/Dan_Single) Bianca Spender (/wiki/Bianca_Spender) Paula Stafford (/wiki/Paula_Stafford) Ruth Tarvydas (/wiki/Ruth_Tarvydas) Shona Joy Thatcher (/wiki/Shona_Joy_Thatcher) Sophia Tolli (/wiki/Sophia_Tolli) Richard Tyler (/wiki/Richard_Tyler_(designer)) Paul Vasileff (/wiki/Paul_Vasileff) Erica Wardle (/wiki/Ericaamerica) Johanna Weigel (/wiki/Johanna_Weigel) Bowie Wong (/wiki/Bowie_Wong) Carla Zampatti (/wiki/Carla_Zampatti) Aheda Zanetti (/wiki/Aheda_Zanetti) Gary Zecevic (/wiki/Calibre_(menswear)) Austria Werner Baldessarini (/wiki/Werner_Baldessarini) Sigmar Berg (/wiki/Sigmar_Berg) Eva Maria Düringer Cavalli (/wiki/Eva_Maria_D%C3%BCringer_Cavalli) Emilie Louise Flöge (/wiki/Emilie_Louise_Fl%C3%B6ge) Gertrud Höchsmann (/wiki/Gertrud_H%C3%B6chsmann) Nina Hollein (/wiki/Nina_Hollein) Emma Jacobsson (/wiki/Emma_Jacobsson) Andreas Kronthaler (/wiki/Andreas_Kronthaler_(fashion_designer)) Helmut Lang (/wiki/Helmut_Lang_(artist)) Michael Lanner (/wiki/Gebr%C3%BCder_Stitch) Birgit C. Muller (/wiki/Birgit_C._Muller) Moriz Piffl-Perčević (/wiki/Gebr%C3%BCder_Stitch) Ruth Rogers-Altmann (/wiki/Ruth_Rogers-Altmann) Jutta Sika (/wiki/Jutta_Sika) Bangladesh Maheen Khan (/wiki/Maheen_Khan_(Bangladesh)) Bibi Russell (/wiki/Bibi_Russell) Asma Sultana (/wiki/Asma_Sultana) Barbados Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) Belarus Apti Eziev (/wiki/Apti_Eziev) Dmitry Sholokhov (/wiki/Dmitry_Sholokhov) Belgium Valentine Avoh (/wiki/Valentine_Avoh) Maggy Baum (/wiki/Maggy_Baum) Dirk Bikkembergs (/wiki/Dirk_Bikkembergs) Veronique Branquinho (/wiki/Veronique_Branquinho) Christophe Coppens (/wiki/Christophe_Coppens) Tim Coppens (/wiki/Tim_Coppens) Jules-François Crahay (/wiki/Jules-Fran%C3%A7ois_Crahay) Angele Delanghe (/wiki/Angele_Delanghe) Ann Demeulemeester (/wiki/Ann_Demeulemeester) Honorine Deschrijver (/wiki/Honorine_Deschrijver) Désirée zu Hohenlohe-Langenburg (/wiki/D%C3%A9sir%C3%A9e_zu_Hohenlohe-Langenburg) Cedric Jacquemyn (/wiki/Cedric_Jacquemyn) Martin Margiela (/wiki/Martin_Margiela) Bruno Pieters (/wiki/Bruno_Pieters) Cathy Pill (/wiki/Cathy_Pill) Elvis Pompilio (/wiki/Elvis_Pompilio) Ann Salens (/wiki/Ann_Salens) Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) Olivier Strelli (/wiki/Olivier_Strelli) Olivier Theyskens (/wiki/Olivier_Theyskens) Kaat Tilley (/wiki/Kaat_Tilley) Jeanne Toussaint (/wiki/Jeanne_Toussaint) Kris Van Assche (/wiki/Kris_Van_Assche) Walter Van Beirendonck (/wiki/Walter_Van_Beirendonck) Dries van Noten (/wiki/Dries_van_Noten) Anthony Vaccarello (/wiki/Anthony_Vaccarello) Édouard Vermeulen (/wiki/%C3%89douard_Vermeulen) Belize Rebecca Stirm (/wiki/Rebecca_Stirm) Bolivia Vanessa Alfaro (/wiki/Vanessa_Alfaro) Beatriz Canedo Patiño (/wiki/Beatriz_Canedo_Pati%C3%B1o) Monica Moss (/wiki/Monica_Moss) Eliana Paco Paredes (/wiki/Eliana_Paco_Paredes) Bosnia Adnan Hajrulahović (Haad) (/wiki/Haad_(company)) Brazil Camila Alves (/wiki/Camila_Alves) Zuzu Angel (/wiki/Zuzu_Angel) Bruno Basso (/wiki/Basso_%26_Brooke) Alexandre Birman (/wiki/Alexandre_Birman) Georgina Brandolini d'Adda (/wiki/Georgina_Brandolini_d%27Adda) Barbara Casasola (/wiki/Barbara_Casasola) Igor Cavalera (/wiki/Igor_Cavalera) Francisco Costa (/wiki/Francisco_Costa_(designer)) Adriana Degreas (/wiki/Adriana_Degreas) Tufi Duek (/wiki/Tufi_Duek) Alexandre Herchcovitch (/wiki/Alexandre_Herchcovitch) Clodovil Hernandes (/wiki/Clodovil_Hernandes) Lorenzo Merlino (/wiki/Lorenzo_Merlino) Alessandra Meskita (/wiki/Alessandra_Meskita) Oskar Metsavaht (/wiki/Oskar_Metsavaht) Carlos Miele (/wiki/Carlos_Miele) Inacio Ribeiro (/wiki/Clements_Ribeiro) Amir Slama (/wiki/Amir_Slama) Iracema Trevisan (/wiki/Iracema_Trevisan) Carlos Tufvesson (/wiki/Carlos_Tufvesson) Diego Vanassibara (/wiki/Diego_Vanassibara) Ocimar Versolato (/wiki/Ocimar_Versolato) Bulgaria Myléna Atanassova (/wiki/Myl%C3%A9na_Atanassova) Viliana Georgieva (/wiki/Viliana_Georgieva) Kiko Kostadinov (/wiki/Kiko_Kostadinov) Burma Ahlatt Lumyang (/wiki/Ahlatt_Lumyang) Myo Minn Soe (/wiki/Myo_Minn_Soe) May Myat Waso (/wiki/May_Myat_Waso) Steven Oo (/wiki/Steven_Oo) Mogok Pauk Pauk (/wiki/Mogok_Pauk_Pauk) Burundi Cynthia Munwangari (/wiki/Cynthia_Munwangari) Cambodia Eric Raisina (/wiki/Eric_Raisina) Cameroon Imane Ayissi (/wiki/Imane_Ayissi) Mireille Nemale (/wiki/Mireille_Nemale) Canada Atuat Akkitirq (/wiki/Atuat_Akkitirq) Marcel B. Aucoin (/wiki/Ian_%26_Marcel) Susan Avingaq (/wiki/Susan_Avingaq) Lida Baday (/wiki/Lida_Baday) Brian Bailey (/wiki/Brian_Bailey) Christopher Bates (/wiki/Christopher_Bates_(fashion_designer)) Tammy Beauvais (/wiki/Tammy_Beauvais) Tishynah Buffalo (/wiki/Tishynah_Buffalo) Nicole Camphaug (/wiki/Nicole_Camphaug) Dean and Dan Caten (/wiki/Dean_and_Dan_Caten) Simon Chang (/wiki/Simon_Chang_(designer)) Dov Charney (/wiki/Dov_Charney) Edison Chen (/wiki/Edison_Chen) Ian H. Cooper (/wiki/Ian_%26_Marcel) Douglas Coupland (/wiki/Douglas_Coupland) Patrick Cox (/wiki/Patrick_Cox) Mario Davignon (/wiki/Mario_Davignon) MLMA (/wiki/MLMA) Angela DeMontigny (/wiki/Angela_DeMontigny) Steve Dubbeldam (/wiki/Steve_Dubbeldam) Ashley Ebner (/wiki/Joker%27s_Closet) John Fluevog (/wiki/John_Fluevog) Sunny Fong (/wiki/Sunny_Fong) Ariel Garten (/wiki/Ariel_Garten) Dorothy Grant (/wiki/Dorothy_Grant) Elora Hardy (/wiki/Elora_Hardy) Adrianne Ho (/wiki/Adrianne_Ho) Rad Hourani (/wiki/Rad_Hourani) Bruno Ierullo (/wiki/Bruno_Ierullo) Aurora James (/wiki/Aurora_James) Tara Jarmon (/wiki/Tara_Jarmon) Victoria Kakuktinniq (/wiki/Victoria_Kakuktinniq) Lloyd Klein (/wiki/Lloyd_Klein) Jeremy Laing (/wiki/Jeremy_Laing) Avril Lavigne (/wiki/Avril_Lavigne) Edeline Lee (/wiki/Edeline_Lee) Devon Halfnight LeFlufy (/wiki/Devon_Halfnight_LeFlufy) Dan Liu (/wiki/Dan_Liu) Charles Lu (/wiki/Charles_Lu_(fashion_designer)) Linda Lundström (/wiki/Linda_Lundstr%C3%B6m) Margeaux (/wiki/Margeaux) Liam Massaubi (/wiki/Liam_Massaubi) Pat McDonagh (/wiki/Pat_McDonagh_(fashion_designer)) Joe Mimran (/wiki/Joe_Mimran) Paul Minichiello (/wiki/Paul_Minichiello) Erdem Moralıoğlu (/wiki/Erdem_Moral%C4%B1o%C4%9Flu) Melaw Nakehk'o (/wiki/Melaw_Nakehk%27o) Mina Napartuk (/wiki/Mina_Napartuk) Sid Neigum (/wiki/Sid_Neigum) Sage Paul (/wiki/Sage_Paul) Marie-Paule Nolin (/wiki/Marie-Paule_Nolin) Aaju Peter (/wiki/Aaju_Peter) Ruth Qaulluaryuk (/wiki/Ruth_Qaulluaryuk) Richard Robinson (/wiki/Richard_Robinson_(fashion_designer)) Arnold Scaasi (/wiki/Arnold_Scaasi) Céline Semaan Vernon (/wiki/C%C3%A9line_Semaan_Vernon) Bojana Sentaler (/wiki/Bojana_Sentaler) Kim Smiley (/wiki/Kim_Smiley) George Sully (/wiki/George_Sully) Alfred Sung (/wiki/Alfred_Sung) Luke Tanabe (/wiki/Ports_International) Tanya Taylor (/wiki/Tanya_Taylor) Collin Thompson (/wiki/Collin_Thompson) Marion Tuu'luq (/wiki/Marion_Tuu%27luq) Malorie Urbanovitch (/wiki/Malorie_Urbanovitch) Liz Vandal (/wiki/Liz_Vandal) Rita Vinieris (/wiki/Rita_Vinieris) Shannon Wilson (/wiki/Shannon_Wilson) Adrienne Wu (/wiki/Adrienne_Wu) Jason Wu (/wiki/Jason_Wu) Chad Benjamin Kirchhoff (/wiki/Meadham_Kirchhoff) Chile Maria Cornejo (/wiki/Maria_Cornejo) China Edison Chen (/wiki/Edison_Chen) Movana Chen (/wiki/Movana_Chen) Betty Clemo (/wiki/Betty_Clemo) Guo Pei (/wiki/Guo_Pei) Kenny Ho (/wiki/Kenny_Ho_(stylist)) Vivienne Hu (/wiki/Vivienne_Hu) Ma Ke (/wiki/Ma_Ke_(fashion_designer)) Titi Kwan (/wiki/Titi_Kwan) Eddie Lau (/wiki/Eddie_Lau) Henry Lau (/wiki/Henry_Lau_(fashion_designer)) Chris Liu (/wiki/Chris_Liu) Lü Yan (/wiki/L%C3%BC_Yan_(model)) Masha Ma (/wiki/Masha_Ma) Kevin Poon (/wiki/Kevin_Poon) Vivienne Poy (/wiki/Vivienne_Poy) John Rocha (/wiki/John_Rocha) Vivienne Tam (/wiki/Vivienne_Tam) William Tang (/wiki/William_Tang_(fashion_designer)) Oscar Udeshi (/wiki/Oscar_Udeshi) Momo Wang (/wiki/Momo_Wang) Taoray Wang (/wiki/Taoray_Wang) Yu Feng (/wiki/Yu_Feng) Lan Yu (/wiki/Lan_Yu_(fashion_designer)) Nellie Yu Roung Ling (/wiki/Nellie_Yu_Roung_Ling) Colombia Esteban Cortázar (/wiki/Esteban_Cort%C3%A1zar) Silvia Tcherassi (/wiki/Silvia_Tcherassi) Croatia Boris Banović (/wiki/Boris_Banovi%C4%87) Damir Doma (/wiki/Damir_Doma) Žuži Jelinek (/wiki/%C5%BDu%C5%BEi_Jelinek) Olja Luetić (/wiki/Olja_Lueti%C4%87) Mandali Mendrilla (/wiki/Mandali_Mendrilla) Cuba Fabiola Arias (/wiki/Fabiola_Arias) Lisandra Ramos (/wiki/Lisandra_Ramos) Isabel Toledo (/wiki/Isabel_Toledo) Cyprus Mustafa Aslanturk (/wiki/Mustafa_Aslanturk) Hussein Chalayan (/wiki/Hussein_Chalayan) Nicolas Petrou (/wiki/Nicolas_Petrou) Czech Republic Zika Ascher (/wiki/Zika_Ascher) Sidonie Grünwald-Zerkowitz (/wiki/Sidonie_Gr%C3%BCnwald-Zerkowitz) Betty Yokova (/wiki/Betty_Yokova) Denmark Malene Birger (/wiki/Malene_Birger) Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard (/wiki/Louise_Lyngh_Bjerregaard) Lilly Brændgaard (/wiki/Lilly_Br%C3%A6ndgaard) Erik Brandt (/wiki/Erik_Rud_Brandt) Margit Brandt (/wiki/Margit_Brandt) Helena Christensen (/wiki/Helena_Christensen) Charlotte Eskildsen (/wiki/Charlotte_Eskildsen) Julie Fagerholt (/wiki/Julie_Fagerholt) Grethe Glad (/wiki/Grethe_Glad) Barbara í Gongini (/wiki/Barbara_%C3%AD_Gongini) Liffa Gregoriussen (/wiki/Liffa_Gregoriussen) Bente Hammer (/wiki/Bente_Hammer) Lars Hillingsø (/wiki/Lars_Hillings%C3%B8) Peter Ingwersen (/wiki/Peter_Ingwersen) Peter Jensen (/wiki/Peter_Jensen_(fashion_designer)) Anne Sofie Madsen (/wiki/Anne_Sofie_Madsen) Bitte Kai Rand (/wiki/Bitte_Kai_Rand) Louise Sandberg (/wiki/Louise_Sandberg) Aage Thaarup (/wiki/Aage_Thaarup) Henrik Vibskov (/wiki/Henrik_Vibskov) Ole Yde (/wiki/Ole_Yde) Dominican Republic Sully Bonnelly (/wiki/Sully_Bonnelly) Monica Boyar (/wiki/Monica_Boyar) José Durán (/wiki/Jose_Duran_(designer)) Hernan Lander (/wiki/Hernan_Lander) Jenny Polanco (/wiki/Jenny_Polanco) Jackie Sencion (/wiki/Jackie_Sencion) Manuel Tarrazo (/wiki/Manuel_Tarrazo) Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) Ecuador Roberto de Villacis (/wiki/Roberto_de_Villacis) El Salvador Francesca Miranda (/wiki/Francesca_Miranda) Estonia Diana Arno (/wiki/Diana_Arno) Roberta Einer (/wiki/Roberta_Einer) Ethiopia Amsale Aberra (/wiki/Amsale_Aberra) Fikirte Addis (/wiki/Fikirte_Addis) Mahlet Afework (/wiki/Mahlet_Afework) Finland Antti Asplund (/wiki/Antti_Asplund) Sandra Hagelstam (/wiki/Sandra_Hagelstam) Katriina Haikala (/wiki/Nutty_Tarts) Riitta Immonen (/wiki/Riitta_Immonen) Maija Isola (/wiki/Maija_Isola) Samu-Jussi Koski (/wiki/Samu-Jussi_Koski) Teuvo Loman (/wiki/Teuvo_Loman) Vilma Metter (/wiki/Nutty_Tarts) Vuokko Nurmesniemi (/wiki/Vuokko_Nurmesniemi) Mert Otsamo (/wiki/Mert_Otsamo) Sveta Planman (/wiki/Sveta_Planman) Saara (/wiki/Sara_Forsberg) France A-G Haider Ackermann (/wiki/Haider_Ackermann) Gaby Aghion (/wiki/Gaby_Aghion) Madame Agnès (/wiki/Madame_Agn%C3%A8s) Gérard Albouy (/wiki/G%C3%A9rard_Albouy) Mademoiselle Alexandre (/wiki/Mademoiselle_Alexandre) Joseph Altuzarra (/wiki/Joseph_Altuzarra) Jérémy Amelin (/wiki/J%C3%A9r%C3%A9my_Amelin) Adeline André (/wiki/Adeline_Andr%C3%A9) Christian Audigier (/wiki/Christian_Audigier) Augustabernard (Augusta Bernard) (/wiki/Augusta_Bernard) Dominique Aurientis (/wiki/Dominique_Aurientis) Loris Azzaro (/wiki/Loris_Azzaro) agnès b. (/wiki/Agn%C3%A8s_b.) Vitaldi & Maurice Babani (/wiki/Babani) Pierre Balmain (/wiki/Pierre_Balmain) Jean Barthet (/wiki/Jean_Barthet) Anne Marie Beretta (/wiki/Anne_Marie_Beretta) Le Sieur Beaulard (/wiki/Le_Sieur_Beaulard) Rose Bertin (/wiki/Rose_Bertin) Marc Bohan (/wiki/Marc_Bohan) Vera Borea (/wiki/Vera_Borea) Coco Brandolini d'Adda (/wiki/Coco_Brandolini_d%27Adda) Vanessa Bruno (/wiki/Vanessa_Bruno) Marie-Louise Bruyère (/wiki/Marie-Louise_Bruy%C3%A8re) Herminie Cadolle (/wiki/Herminie_Cadolle) Serge Cajfinger (/wiki/Paule_Ka) Callot Soeurs (/wiki/Callot_Soeurs) Émile Camuset (/wiki/%C3%89mile_Camuset) Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) Marie-Louise Carven (/wiki/Marie-Louise_Carven) Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (/wiki/Jean-Charles_de_Castelbajac) Louis-Marie de Castelbajac (/wiki/Louis-Marie_de_Castelbajac) Coco Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel) Christofle Charvet (/wiki/Charvet_Place_Vend%C3%B4me) Marcelle Chaumont (/wiki/Marcelle_Chaumont) Louise Chéruit (/wiki/Louise_Ch%C3%A9ruit) Robert Clergerie (/wiki/Robert_Clergerie) Marie-Françoise Corot (/wiki/Marie-Fran%C3%A7oise_Corot) André Courrèges (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Courr%C3%A8ges) Jeanne Damas (/wiki/Jeanne_Damas) Christophe Decarnin (/wiki/Christophe_Decarnin) Zahia Dehar (/wiki/Zahia_Dehar) Jean Dessès (/wiki/Jean_Dess%C3%A8s) Kostio de War (/wiki/Kostio_de_War) Rehane Yavar Dhala (/wiki/Rehane_Yavar_Dhala) Mohamed Dia (/wiki/Mohamed_Dia) Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) Georges Doeuillet (/wiki/Georges_Doeuillet) Marcelle Dormoy (/wiki/Marcelle_Dormoy) Jacques Doucet (/wiki/Jacques_Doucet_(fashion_designer)) Marie Madeleine Duchapt (/wiki/Marie_Madeleine_Duchapt) Pierre-Alexis Dumas (/wiki/Pierre-Alexis_Dumas) Madame Eloffe (/wiki/Madame_Eloffe) Benoît-Pierre Emery (/wiki/Beno%C3%AEt-Pierre_Emery) Nicole Farhi (/wiki/Nicole_Farhi) Jacques Fath (/wiki/Jacques_Fath) Louis Féraud (/wiki/Louis_F%C3%A9raud) Anne Fontaine (/wiki/Anne_Fontaine_(designer)) Julien Fournié (/wiki/Julien_Fourni%C3%A9) Inès de La Fressange (/wiki/In%C3%A8s_de_La_Fressange) Maud Frizon (/wiki/Maud_Frizon) Jean Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier) Katell Gélébart (/wiki/Katell_G%C3%A9l%C3%A9bart) Nicolas Ghesquière (/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re) Hubert de Givenchy (/wiki/Hubert_de_Givenchy) Michel Goma (/wiki/Michel_Goma) Madame Grès (/wiki/Madame_Gr%C3%A8s) Jacques Griffe (/wiki/Jacques_Griffe) Jacques Guarrigue-Lefèvre (/wiki/Jacques_Guarrigue-Lef%C3%A8vre) H-N Sophie Habsburg (/wiki/Sophie_Habsburg) Pierre Hardy (/wiki/Pierre_Hardy_(fashion_designer)) Anne Valérie Hash (/wiki/Anne_Val%C3%A9rie_Hash) Daniel Hechter (/wiki/Daniel_Hechter) Jacques Heim (/wiki/Jacques_Heim) Madame Herbault (/wiki/Madame_Herbault) Simon Porte Jacquemus (/wiki/Simon_Porte_Jacquemus) Bouchra Jarrar (/wiki/Bouchra_Jarrar) Christophe Josse (/wiki/Christophe_Josse) Charles Jourdan (/wiki/Charles_Jourdan) Philip Karto (/wiki/Philip_Karto) Emmanuelle Khanh (/wiki/Emmanuelle_Khanh) Michel Klein (/wiki/Michel_Klein) Romain Kremer (/wiki/Romain_Kremer) Bernard Lacoste (/wiki/Bernard_Lacoste) René Lacoste (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9_Lacoste) Christian Lacroix (/wiki/Christian_Lacroix) Madeleine Laferrière (/wiki/Madeleine_Laferri%C3%A8re) Frédéric Luca Landi (/wiki/Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric_Luca_Landi) Jeanne Lanvin (/wiki/Jeanne_Lanvin) Ted Lapidus (/wiki/Ted_Lapidus) Guy Laroche (/wiki/Guy_Laroche) Alexis Lavigne (/wiki/Alexis_Lavigne) Françoise Leclerc (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7oise_Leclerc) Didier Lecoanet (/wiki/Lecoanet_Hemant) Germaine Lecomte (/wiki/Germaine_Lecomte) Lucien Lelong (/wiki/Lucien_Lelong) Lolita Lempicka (/wiki/Lolita_Lempicka) Hervé Leroux (/wiki/Herve_Leger) Louis Hippolyte Leroy (/wiki/Louis_Hippolyte_Leroy) Julie de Libran (/wiki/Julie_de_Libran) Christian Louboutin (/wiki/Christian_Louboutin) Serge Lutens (/wiki/Serge_Lutens) Alexis Mabille (/wiki/Alexis_Mabille) Catherine Malandrino (/wiki/Catherine_Malandrino) Alain Manoukian (/wiki/Alain_Manoukian) Isabel Marant (/wiki/Isabel_Marant) Léo Marciano (/wiki/L%C3%A9o_Marciano) Maripol (/wiki/Maripol) Natacha Marro (/wiki/Natacha_Marro) Paul Mausner (/wiki/Paul_Mausner) Frank Mechaly (/wiki/Frank_Mechaly) Sophie Mechaly (/wiki/Sophie_Mechaly) Rodolphe Menudier (/wiki/Rodolphe_Menudier) Sébastien Meunier (/wiki/S%C3%A9bastien_Meunier) Simone Mirman (/wiki/Simone_Mirman) Caroline Montagne Roux (/wiki/Caroline_Montagne_Roux) Claude Montana (/wiki/Claude_Montana) Gilles Montezin (/wiki/Gilles_Montezin) Roland Mouret (/wiki/Roland_Mouret) Thierry Mugler (/wiki/Thierry_Mugler) Henriette Negrin (/wiki/Henriette_Negrin) O-Z Andre Oliver (/wiki/Andre_Oliver) Mademoiselle Pagelle (/wiki/Mademoiselle_Pagelle) Madame Palmyre (/wiki/Madame_Palmyre) Jeanne Paquin (/wiki/Jeanne_Paquin) Jean Patou (/wiki/Jean_Patou) Mr Pearl (/wiki/Mr_Pearl) Lucien Pellat-Finet (/wiki/Lucien_Pellat-Finet) André Perugia (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Perugia) Phoebe Philo (/wiki/Phoebe_Philo) Christine Phung (/wiki/Christine_Phung) Paloma Picasso (/wiki/Paloma_Picasso) Hervé 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(/wiki/Capsule_wardrobe) Chinoiserie in fashion (/wiki/Chinoiserie_in_fashion) Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Music and fashion (/wiki/Music_and_fashion) Fashion victim (/wiki/Fashion_victim) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐r2ncb Cached time: 20240720165840 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.778 seconds Real time usage: 1.096 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 8095/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 58368/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 6991/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 42132/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.197/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 2661876/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 398.153 1 -total 24.16% 96.189 3 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Formal evening dress worn by military personnel Not to be confused with full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) . Three Canadian officers in shawl or rolled collar jacket and waistcoat style mess dress or mess kit. Miniature medals (/wiki/Miniature_medal) and other accoutrements are also worn. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Mess dress uniform is the most formal (or semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) , depending on the country) type of evening-wear uniform (/wiki/Uniform) used by military personnel (/wiki/Military_personnel) , police personnel (/wiki/Police_officer) , and other uniformed services (/wiki/Uniformed_services) members. It frequently consists of a mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) , trousers (/wiki/Trouser) , white dress shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) and a black bow tie, along with orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) and medals (/wiki/Medals) insignia (/wiki/Insignia) . Design may depend on regiment (/wiki/Regiment) or service branch (/wiki/Service_branch) , e.g. army (/wiki/Army) , navy (/wiki/Navy) , air force (/wiki/Air_force) , marines (/wiki/Marines) , etc. In modern Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) , mess dress uniform is the supplementary alternative equivalent to the civilian (/wiki/Civilian) black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) for evening wear. Mess dress uniforms are typically less formal than full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) , but more formal than service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) . Prior to World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , this style of military uniform was largely restricted to the British (/wiki/British_Armed_Forces) and United States Armed Forces (/wiki/United_States_Armed_Forces) , although the French (/wiki/French_Armed_Forces) , German (/wiki/Imperial_German_Navy) , Swedish (/wiki/Swedish_Navy) and other navies had adopted their own versions of mess dress during the late 19th century, influenced by the British Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) . [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKnötelKnötelSieg1980442–445-1) While mess dress uniform is predominantly worn at occasions by commissioned officers (/wiki/Commissioned_officer) and non-commissioned officers (/wiki/Non-commissioned_officers) , it may also be worn as an optional uniform by some senior enlisted personnel (/wiki/Enlisted_personnel) . It is also sometimes worn by members of royal courts (/wiki/Royal_court) or certain civilian uniformed services. Name [ edit ] Mess dress uniform is also known as mess uniform and, more informally, as mess kit . Australia [ edit ] A retired colonel of the Australian Army (/wiki/Australian_Army) in winter mess dress, 2013. The Australian Army has separate mess kits for summer and winter. The summer mess kit is a white jacket, almost identical between different branches of the army. The winter mess kit is made of thicker material, with jackets in the colour (scarlet or dark blue) of the wearers' corps. The winter mess dress includes a waistcoat. Both kits have the same barrathea blue trousers, but trousers vary in the colour and width of leg stripe denoting corps. Women's mess attire is the same, except that women may wear a skirt instead of trousers. Both versions are worn with a bow tie and white shirt; Marcella for winter and plain for summer. The Royal Australian Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Australian_Air_Force) has different mess uniforms for summer and winter. The summer mess kit is marked out by a white jacket while the winter jacket is dark blue. Belgium [ edit ] The official name of the Belgian Armed Forces (/wiki/Belgian_Armed_Forces) mess dress is "Tenue 1C" or " Spencer ". It is worn only after 18:00 hours, at ceremonies in the presence of HM the King, a member of the Royal Family or a foreign Head of State. It can also be worn when civilians are in white or black tie. It consists of a dark-blue jacket with two golden buttons linked by a chain closure, dark-blue trousers and a low-cut marcella waistcoat. The waistcoat is of the regimental or corps colour. Regimental colours also figure on the edge of the shoulder straps. This is matched by a white dress shirt and a black bow tie. The ranks are embroidered onto the peak lapels of the jacket, except for the Navy where the rank curls are placed at the bottom of the sleeves. The spencer dress is allowed for all ranks. Generals and cavalry, horse artillery or logistical officers may wear spurs. Women wear the same dress, with a long dark blue skirt and black lace instead of the bow tie. [2] (#cite_note-2) It should not be confused with 1A Dress ( Groot Galatenue / Grande Tenue de Gala ) or 1B Dress ( Galatenue / Tenue de Gala ), which resembles the British Army N°1 Blue Dress (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_British_Army#No.1:_Temperate_ceremonial) . These orders are worn for weddings, military ceremonies and repas de corps . An oversea version with a white jacket is available to Navy personnel (Tenue 5H1). Canada [ edit ] Mess dress uniform for The Black Watch (Royal Highland Regiment) of Canada (/wiki/The_Black_Watch_(Royal_Highland_Regiment)_of_Canada) on display Mess dress is worn as formal evening attire for mess dinners. Uniforms range from full mess dress (with dinner jackets, cummerbunds or waistcoats) to service dress worn with a bow tie for individuals not required to own mess dress ( non-commissioned members (/wiki/Non-commissioned_members) and members of the Reserve Force (/wiki/Canadian_Armed_Forces#Canadian_Armed_Forces_Reserve_Force) ). Mess dress is not provided at public expense. However, all commissioned officers of the Regular Force (/wiki/Regular_Force) are required to own mess dress within six months of being commissioned. The winter mess dress (No. 2) for the Royal Canadian Navy (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Navy) consists of a navy blue (/wiki/Navy_blue) jacket with gold laced rank insignia worn on the sleeve, gold-laced navy blue trousers worn by all commissioned officers (unlike in the Royal Navy they are not restricted to captains and flag officers) white shirt with soft or wing collar and a white waistcoat. Officers of the rank of Captain(N) (/wiki/Ship-of-the-Line_Captain#Canada) and above wear a tailcoat instead of the standard jacket. NCMs trousers are the same pattern, but without gold lace down the seam. Miniatures of medals earned are worn on the left lapel; regular size qualification badges earned are worn on the left sleeve, above the rank insignia (as they are worn in the Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) for naval aviators). Summer mess dress (No. 2A) is similar except that a white jacket with rank insignia on navy blue shoulder boards (gold covered for flag officers) is worn, and either the waistcoat or cummerbund is worn. The winter standard pattern mess dress (No. 2) for the Canadian Army (/wiki/Canadian_Army) consists of a scarlet jacket with rank insignia worn on soft shoulder loops, scarlet-laced dark blue (almost black) trousers, white shirt with soft or wing collar and dark blue waistcoat. The details of regimental distinctions vary by regiments and are defined in detail in the Canadian Forces Dress Instructions. Miniature medals are worn on the left breast below miniatures of qualification badges earned. The summer standard pattern mess dress is similar except that a white jacket with rank insignia worn on black shoulder boards, and cummerbund, is worn. Army reserve regiments are authorized to wear mess dress that is distinctive to the regiment and which can consist of jackets of different cuts (for example high collar) and colours, rather than the standard pattern mess dress. Authorized summer dress (No. 2A), consisting of the white jacket in lieu of scarlet, varies from regiment to regiment, but typically is not authorized for NCMs below the rank of Warrant Officer (/wiki/Warrant_Officer) . Lieutenant General Pierre St-Amand (/wiki/Pierre_St-Amand) of the Royal Canadian Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Air_Force) in winter mess dress, 2016. The winter mess dress of the Royal Canadian Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Air_Force) consists of a midnight blue jacket with gold rank insignia worn on the sleeve, black-laced midnight blue trousers, white shirt with soft collar, and a cummerbund in the colours of the Royal Canadian Air Force tartan. Miniature medals are worn on the left breast above miniatures of qualification badges earned. The summer mess dress (No. 2A) is similar except that a white jacket with rank insignia worn on midnight blue shoulder boards is worn, and is authorized as an optional order for RCAF officers only. No. 2B is authorized as an alternative for Regular Force officers who have not yet purchased mess uniform, and for Reserve Force officers and all NCMs as they are not required to purchase mess uniform. It applies to all three elements and consists of the standard service dress uniform appropriate to the element (rifle green for the Army (/wiki/Canadian_Army) , navy blue for the RCN (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Navy) and light blue for the RCAF (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Air_Force) ), a white long-sleeved shirt (as issued to navy personnel) and a black bow tie. Undress ribbons and nametag are worn. No. 2C is a relaxed, ship-board only order of mess uniform, worn by members of all elements when dining formally onboard HMC Ships at sea. It consists of the service short sleeve shirt and service dress trousers appropriate to the element, and a cummerbund in black or authorized regimental colours. Name tag, medals/ribbons are not worn. No. 2D is the CF standard pattern mess dress, now superseded, which was authorized for wear prior to the reversion to separate environmental uniforms for Army, Navy and Air Force. It is identical to Air Force No. 2 dress except that buttons and other accoutrements reflect the unified CF uniform prevalent from 1968 to circa 1987. It is authorized for wear by personnel who had joined '"and acquired their mess uniform'" prior to the re-establishment of distinctive environmental uniforms. [3] (#cite_note-3) France [ edit ] See also: Military uniform § France (/wiki/Military_uniform#France) Male and female officer mess dress of the French Army (/wiki/French_Army) . Until World War II officers of the French Army wore their full dress ( grande tenue ) uniforms for evening as well as daytime formal and ceremonial occasions. Naval officers however had a special mess uniform similar in style to that of the Royal Navy. Since the 1950s, officers of all service branches of the French Armed Forces (/wiki/French_Armed_Forces) , including joint services such as the Health Service, have a mess dress known as Tenue 1A . It consists of a night blue jacket with ornamented shoulder straps with rank insignia, night blue trousers, a white shirt, a black bow tie, a night blue cummerbund, black polished shoes and black socks. Women wear a similar uniform, with a night blue long skirt, a white satiny shirt and a white satiny bow tie. Headdress, a night blue cloak and white gloves may be worn outside only. Fourragères (/wiki/Fourrag%C3%A8re) and aiguillettes (/wiki/Aiguillette) are not worn, with the exception of the aiguillette obtained for individual merits. Miniature medals are worn for most decorations, only the recipients of national orders (/wiki/Orders,_decorations,_and_medals_of_France) above the rank of Commandeur may wear the collar and sash. An overseas version with a white jacket is available. [4] (#cite_note-4) Germany [ edit ] See also: Awards and decorations of the German Armed Forces (/wiki/Awards_and_decorations_of_the_German_Armed_Forces) German Army (/wiki/German_Army) formal dress Mess uniforms were worn by officers of the Imperial German Navy (/wiki/Imperial_German_Navy) , though not by army officers. During the 1930s in Nazi Germany (/wiki/Nazi_Germany) , officers of the Schutzstaffel (/wiki/Schutzstaffel) (SS) had the option of purchasing mess dress (/wiki/SS_uniform#Special_SS_uniforms) uniforms. SS mess dress resembled a double-breasted dinner jacket, with collar tabs and white piping (/wiki/Piping_(sewing)) . In modern Germany, mess dress is a permitted uniform for officers and non-commissioned officers (/wiki/Non-commissioned_officer) (NCOs) of the Bundeswehr (/wiki/Bundeswehr) attending white (/wiki/White_tie) or black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) festive social occasions. Female soldiers wear a long dark-blue skirt and a white blouse with the Bundesadler (/wiki/Coat_of_Arms_of_Germany#Federal_Republic_of_Germany) ("Federal Eagle" coat of arms) on the right collar. This is combined with a long scarf across the chest and a dark blue short velvet jacket. A variant with a short white silk jacket combined with a blue blouse is also permitted. Purses and other accessories may be carried. [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBundeswehr_Dress_Codepara._262/1-5) The basic mess dress ( Grundform ) for men consists of a jacket with a chain closure, trousers with black silk trim strips, and either a cummerbund (army, air force, navy) or a Torerobund (a torero (/wiki/Torero) -style waist sash, for the army and air force). These sashes or cummerbunds are of black fabric for the army and dark blue for the air force and navy. The chain is gold for the navy and for army and air force generals; others wear a silver chain. This is matched by a white dress shirt (with a concealed placket (/wiki/Placket) ; no stand-up collars, ruffles, or embroidery) and a black bow tie and black or black patent leather shoes. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBundeswehr_Dress_Codeparas._261–264-6) As a variation, a black smoking jacket with black silk collar and black silk-covered passant (/wiki/Shoulder_strap) (Army, Air Force) may be worn instead. The ranks are embroidered onto the epaulettes. The jacket is worn without cuff titles (/wiki/Cuff_title) , collar patches (/wiki/Gorget_patches) , or any other coloured insignia. In the navy, rank insignia is placed on the sleeves. Activity (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C3%A4tigkeitsabzeichen) , proficiency (/wiki/German_Armed_Forces_Badge_for_Military_Proficiency) , or specialist badges are often included in the embroidered portion. Miniature versions of any orders and decorations are worn from ribbons. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBundeswehr_Dress_Codeparas._261–264-6) Greece [ edit ] The mess dress of the Hellenic Armed Forces (/wiki/Hellenic_Armed_Forces) , adopted in 1953, resembles the "rolled collar" jacket, waistcoat and trousers pattern of the British Army as described in this article. It is classed as no. 4 dress. Colours are those of the historic full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) uniform of the particular branch or service (e.g. medium green with crimson facings for armored cavalry officers, dark blue with red facings for infantry officers). A white version is authorized for summer wear. Indonesia [ edit ] The Indonesian National Armed Forces (/wiki/Indonesian_National_Armed_Forces) (TNI) version of the mess dress uniform is categorized in the "PDU" ( Pakaian Dinas Upacara ) or " full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform#Indonesia) " type " II " / PDU No. 2. It is only worn by officers (/wiki/Officer_(military)) , and is worn when attending state-level banquets (/wiki/Banquets) and official receptions in or outside the country. Israel [ edit ] In keeping with the Israel Defense Forces (/wiki/Israel_Defense_Forces) ' doctrine of a People's Army (/wiki/The_People%27s_Army_Model) , mess uniform is not worn inside Israel (/wiki/Israel) . [ citation needed ] It takes the form of a khaki service uniform rather than the special evening dress as worn by many other nations. It is only worn abroad, either by military attachés (/wiki/Military_attach%C3%A9) or by senior officers on official state visits (/wiki/State_visit) . These rules also apply to the IDF dress uniform (/wiki/Dress_uniform) . [ citation needed ] Because of the small number of uniforms required they are bespoke tailored (/wiki/Bespoke) for the specific officer. [ citation needed ] The mess uniforms are the only Israeli army order of dress to include a tie, and have a summer version and a winter version. Jamaica [ edit ] Both senior non-commissioned officers and commissioned officers of the Jamaica Defence Force (/wiki/Jamaica_Defence_Force) may wear (No. 5 Dress) mess kit. [7] (#cite_note-Jamaica_Defence_Force-7) New Zealand [ edit ] Cape worn with the mess uniform for the New Zealand Army Nursing Service (/wiki/New_Zealand_Army_Nursing_Service) , during the First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) . The Royal New Zealand Navy (/wiki/Royal_New_Zealand_Navy) , New Zealand Army (/wiki/New_Zealand_Army) , and Royal New Zealand Air Force (/wiki/Royal_New_Zealand_Air_Force) have mess uniforms of similar style to those worn by the equivalent British and Australian services. New Zealand Army mess uniforms authorised for officers were simplified about 2000 in that the distinctive corps and regimental colours previously worn were replaced by a universal scarlet and blue pattern with only insignia distinguishing one branch or unit from another. Royal New Zealand Air Force mess dress consists of grey/blue jackets, trousers and waistcoats with white shirts and black bow ties. Any medals are displayed above the left breast pocket. Individual flying squadron colours appear on mess dress belts worn by officers. Senior NCOs (sergeants, flight sergeants, and warrant officers) also wear mess dress for various special functions. Norway [ edit ] Haakon, Crown Prince of Norway (/wiki/Haakon,_Crown_Prince_of_Norway) , wearing Norwegian Navy (/wiki/Norwegian_Navy) mess dress during the wedding of Princess Madeleine and Christopher O'Neill (/wiki/Wedding_of_Princess_Madeleine_and_Christopher_O%27Neill) . The Norwegian Army (/wiki/Norwegian_Army) has no specific mess uniform, but uses its parade uniform or service uniform as appropriate. [8] (#cite_note-8) The Royal Norwegian Navy (/wiki/Royal_Norwegian_Navy) uses a navy blue hooded jacket and waistcoat. As in the Royal Norwegian Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Norwegian_Air_Force) , the mess jacket is used with a white waistcoat for gala events. [9] (#cite_note-9) Pakistan [ edit ] In the Pakistan Armed Forces (/wiki/Pakistan_Armed_Forces) , mess uniform may be worn for formal/official evening events e.g. mess dinner/guest nights. The Pakistani Army mess dress may be in khaki drill or rifle green, and largely resembles the daytime No.1 dress of the British Army rather than the special evening dress described in the United Kingdom section of this article. Mess uniform is authorized for all commissioned officers of the Pakistan Army, Air Force and Navy. This order of uniform is obligatory for military officers posted abroad, either as military attachés (/wiki/Military_attach%C3%A9) ( air attaché (/wiki/Air_attach%C3%A9) , naval attaché (/wiki/Naval_attach%C3%A9) , defence attaché (/wiki/Defence_attach%C3%A9) ) or by high-ranking officers on official state visits (/wiki/State_visit) . All military officers are required to wear mess dress on appropriate occasions during such visits or while attending state inaugurations. All mess uniforms are bespoke tailored for specific officers according to their regiment/corps, assignments and ranks. Russia and the former USSR [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Mess_dress_uniform) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( November 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Senior Russian military officers receiving awards from President Putin, 2019. While officially the Soviet and post-Soviet military forces do not wear mess uniform, a version of it was introduced in July 1969 for senior generals only ( Russian (/wiki/Russian_language) : парадно-выходная форма ), who wore light-grey tunics on special occasions (mostly reception of state awards). This uniform was abandoned in the 1990s but reintroduced under President Putin, again for senior generals only. The grey tunic uniform should be distinguished from the blue or dark green full-dress parade uniform regularly worn on holidays and ceremonies ( Russian (/wiki/Russian_language) : парадная форма ). Sweden [ edit ] Full mess dress [ edit ] Lesser mess dress uniform for the Swedish Air Force (/wiki/Swedish_Air_Force) . Swedish full mess dress (known as stor mässdräkt ) is formal wear to be worn on occasions when a civilian would wear white tie or a morning dress. [10] (#cite_note-10) The Swedish Army (/wiki/Swedish_Army) code for full mess dress is m/86, the navy (/wiki/Swedish_Navy) is m/1878, and the air force (/wiki/Swedish_Air_Force) m/1938. The numbers represent the year in which the style was introduced. The full mess dress is thus the equivalent of full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) for units which don't have their unit-specific full dress uniform traditions. The uniforms consist of: dark blue mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) white waistcoat; a white waist sash for female personnel dark blue long trousers with piping; dark blue long skirt for female personnel dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) ; female personnel wear a white spread-collared, ruffle front blouse black bow tie dark blue cap (with certain variations between the branches) black socks black plain-toe, lace-up shoes ( patent leather (/wiki/Patent_leather) is an option); female personnel wears black ladies' shoes (again with variations) white gloves Additional clothing includes a cloak (/wiki/Cloak) (akin to the boat coat), galoshes, and a scarf, as well as any medals. With the full mess dress one may also wear braces or a waistcoat in one's branch colours. Lesser mess dress [ edit ] The "lesser" ( liten ) and "full" ( stor ) mess dress are two uniforms of the Swedish Armed Forces (/wiki/Swedish_Armed_Forces) uniform subgroup of "social uniforms" ( sällskapsuniformer ). Aside from mess dress, this group also includes "formal wear" and "society wear". The Swedish lesser mess dress is the equivalent of the civilian black tie. It is the same as the British mess undress or the American mess dress blues . It differs from the full mess dress in a number of ways: the waistcoat/waist sash is dark blue; white is permitted if the gathering includes civilians there is no piping on the trousers black gloves shorter skirts are permitted, in combination with brown nylon stockings turnover collars are acceptable Army officers and cadets may replace the blue vest and sash or the lining of a cloak with traditional regimental or branch-specific colours. A sabre may be carried, but is not obligatory. [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESwedish_Uniform_Regulations86–87-11) Dark red – Artillery (/wiki/Artillery) and Paratroopers (/wiki/Fallsk%C3%A4rmsj%C3%A4garna) Black – Engineer Troops (/wiki/Swedish_Engineer_Troops) Yellow – Infantry (/wiki/Infantry) and Infantry foot guards (/wiki/Foot_guards) Royal blue – Cavalry (/wiki/Cavalry) and the Life Guards (/wiki/Life_Guards_(Sweden)) Light red – Anti-aircraft (/wiki/Anti-aircraft) troops Black with yellow piping – Armoured Troops (/wiki/Swedish_Armoured_Troops) Green – Signal Troops (/wiki/Swedish_Army_Signal_Troops) Light blue – Service Troops (/wiki/Swedish_Army_Service_Troops) Mess dress is a permitted uniform, in that it is allowed to be worn on defined occasions, but possession is not obligatory. There is always a corresponding form of obligatory uniform that may be worn as an alternative (army: m/87 A, navy: m/48, air force: m/87). Full mess dress is thus matched by högtidsdräkt (formal wear) and the lesser mess dress by sällskapsdräkt (society wear). Formal wear is the same as parade dress (/wiki/Military_uniform#Parade) , when worn at the equivalent of a white tie occasion. "Society wear" is the service dress uniform, when worn to a black-tie occasion. [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESwedish_Uniform_Regulations43-12) Formal and society wear (rather than mess dress) are the mandatory uniform types for any military event, funeral, parade, state visit, or any other non-festive occasion. [11] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESwedish_Uniform_Regulations86–87-11) United Kingdom [ edit ] The Royal Household [ edit ] Main article: Court uniform and dress in the United Kingdom (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) The officers of some ceremonial military corps (/wiki/Corps) , such as the Yeomen of the Guard (/wiki/Yeomen_of_the_Guard) and Gentlemen at Arms (/wiki/Honourable_Corps_of_Gentlemen_at_Arms) , are authorised to wear the evening dress of the Royal Household court uniform (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) as a mess dress. [13] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEyeomenoftheguard.com_-_uniform-13) [14] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEyeomenoftheguard.com_-_gentlemen_at_arms-14) [15] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrendell192123–26-15) Royal Navy [ edit ] Depiction of No. 2A mess dress for the Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) . The Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) distinguishes between mess dress, which is now the equivalent of civilian white tie, and mess undress, which is the equivalent of black tie. Before 1939, there were three forms of evening dress: Ball dress (No. 2) – undress tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) , gold epaulettes (/wiki/Epaulette) , gold-laced trousers, white waistcoat, black bow tie, cocked hat (/wiki/Cocked_hat) Mess dress (No. 7) – mess jacket, gold-laced trousers, blue waistcoat, black bow tie, peaked cap. Mess undress (No. 8) – mess jacket, plain trousers, blue waistcoat, black bow tie, peaked cap. Today, there are only two forms of evening dress: Mess dress (No. 2A) – mess jacket, plain navy blue mess trousers, white waistcoat, black bow tie, peaked cap. Mess undress (No. 2B) – mess jacket, plain navy blue mess trousers, blue waistcoat or black cummerbund, black bow tie, peaked cap. Officers of the rank of captain (/wiki/Captain_(Royal_Navy)) and above wear gold-laced trousers (the gold lace stripes are nicknamed "lightning conductors"), and may wear the undress tailcoat (without epaulettes), with either mess dress or mess undress. The undress tailcoat is so named to distinguish it from the full dress tailcoat that was worn during the day with full dress (No. 1), which is worn in a modified form by admirals today as ceremonial day dress. Both the undress tailcoat and the mess jacket are double-breasted, with peaked lapels and six gilt buttons, but cut to be worn single-breasted and fastened at the front with two linked gilt buttons. The undress tailcoat is fitted with scallop-flapped hip pockets with three gilt buttons on each pocket. Rank is indicated on the undress tailcoat and mess jacket by gold lace on the sleeves. When tropical rig is ordered, a white, double breasted mess jacket with a shawl collar is worn instead of the blue, with shoulder boards to indicate rank. The peaked cap can (optionally) be worn with both mess undress and mess dress. Senior rates-Warrant Officers (of both grades), Chief Petty Officers and Petty Officer- may either wear their Number 1 Dress uniform with a bow tie and medal ribbons, or they may optionally wear a navy blue mess jacket with shawl collar that is worn with the black cummerbund and a white Marcella shirt and navy blue mess trousers. The relevant cuff buttons indicating rate are worn by Petty Officers and Chief Petty Officers, and miniature rate badges are worn on the upper left arm of the mess jacket by petty officers, and on the sleeve by both grades of Warrant officers. Miniature medals are also worn. Trade badges are not worn in this rig. In tropical climates, either a white bush jacket (as in number 1 rig) is worn with medal ribbons, or optionally; a white mess jacket similar to that worn by officers is optionally worn, only without shoulderboards. Mess dress and mess undress are today worn with a soft marcella (/wiki/Piqu%C3%A9_(weaving)) -fronted shirt with a soft collar. Stiff marcella-fronted shirts and stiff wing collars were previously worn with all forms of evening dress, but were abolished first for mess undress, and finally in the mid-1990s for mess dress. Rear admirals and above may continue to wear the stiff shirt and collar with mess dress. Cummerbunds, which may be worn with mess undress instead of the blue waistcoat and with Red Sea rig (/wiki/Red_Sea_rig) (No. 2C), are frequently decorated with badges or colours proper to the ship or establishment in which the officer serves. For example, HMS Glasgow – Black Watch (/wiki/Black_Watch) tartan; HMS Illustrious – green with the ship's logo (three crossed trumpets) in gold; Royal Naval Engineering College (/wiki/Royal_Naval_Engineering_College) (RNEC) – engineers' purple with the RNEC lettering in gold. Traditionally, half- Wellington boots (/wiki/Wellington_boot) were worn with mess dress and mess undress, but today shoes are more common. The optional outer garment worn with evening dress is the boat cloak (/w/index.php?title=Boat_cloak&action=edit&redlink=1) , which is a knee-length navy blue cloak lined with white silk, with four gilt buttons, and fastened at the neck with two gilt lions' heads joined with a chain. Miniature medals are worn with both mess dress and mess undress, though previously medal ribbons only were worn with mess undress on routine occasions, such as by the officer of the day (/wiki/Officer_of_the_day) . Officers who are members of orders of chivalry (/wiki/Order_of_chivalry) wear their stars and ribbons as appropriate. The Elder Brethren of Trinity House (/wiki/Trinity_House) are authorised to wear a mess dress based upon that of a Royal Navy captain. [16] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTETrendell1921192-16) British Army [ edit ] Main article: British Army mess dress (/wiki/British_Army_mess_dress) Officers' Other ranks' British Army (/wiki/British_Army) No. 10 mess dress ( Royal Yorkshire Regiment (/wiki/Royal_Yorkshire_Regiment) ) Mess uniforms first appeared in the British Army in about 1845, initially utilizing the short "shell jacket" worn since 1831. This working jacket was worn open over a regimental waistcoat for evening dress. [17] (#cite_note-17) The original purpose was to provide a relatively comfortable and inexpensive alternative to the stiff and elaborate full-dress uniforms then worn by officers for evening social functions such as regimental dinners or balls. [18] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECarman197790-18) With the general disappearance of full dress uniforms after World War I, mess dress became the most colourful and traditional uniform to be retained by most officers in British and Commonwealth (/wiki/Commonwealth_of_Nations) armies. Immediately after World War II the cheaper "blue patrols" were worn for several years as mess dress, but by 1956 the traditional uniforms had been readopted. [19] (#cite_note-19) The formal designation of the most commonly worn mess uniform in the British Army is "No. 10 (Temperate) Mess Dress". The form varies according to regiment (/wiki/Regiment) or corps, but generally a short mess jacket is worn, which either fastens at the neck (being cut away to show the waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) , this being traditionally the style worn by cavalry (/wiki/Cavalry) regiments and other mounted corps), [20] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBarthorp1984173-20) or is worn with a white shirt and black bow tie (traditionally the usual style for unmounted regiments, corps, and services). [21] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWar_Office1911Sections_578–582-21) Since regimental amalgamations, the "cut away" or cavalry-style jacket has been adopted by some British Army infantry regiments such as the Royal Regiment of Wales (/wiki/Royal_Regiment_of_Wales) , [22] (#cite_note-22) the Royal Regiment of Fusiliers (/wiki/Royal_Regiment_of_Fusiliers) , [23] (#cite_note-23) and corps such as the Adjutant General's Corps (/wiki/Adjutant_General%27s_Corps) and the Royal Logistic Corps (/wiki/Royal_Logistic_Corps) . Officers of the Foot Guards, Royal Engineers (/wiki/Royal_Engineers) , the Parachute Regiment (/wiki/Parachute_Regiment_(United_Kingdom)) , the Royal Army Medical Corps (/wiki/Royal_Army_Medical_Corps) , and the Royal Regiment of Scotland (/wiki/Royal_Regiment_of_Scotland) amongst others still wear the infantry style of jacket. The colours of mess jackets and trousers reflect those of the traditional full dress uniforms of the regiments in question, as worn until at least 1914. Jackets are, therefore, usually scarlet, dark blue, or rifle green, with collars, cuffs, waistcoats, or lapels in the former facing colours (/wiki/Facing_colour) of the regiments in question. In the case of those regiments which have undergone amalgamation, features of the former uniforms are often combined. Waistcoats are often richly embroidered, [24] (#cite_note-24) though with modern modifications, such as a core of cotton for gold cording instead of the thick gold cord [25] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENewark1998129-25) which made these items very expensive prior to World War II. Non-commissioned officers' mess dress is usually simpler in design, but in the same colours as officers of their regiment. Most British Army regiments' mess dress incorporates high-waisted, very tight trousers known as overalls, the bottoms of which buckle under leather Wellington or George boots. Ornamental spurs (/wiki/Spur) are usually worn by cavalry regiments and corps that traditionally were mounted; some other regiments and corps prescribe spurs for field officers (/wiki/Field_officers) , since in former times these officers would have been mounted. The Rifles (/wiki/The_Rifles) do not wear spurs at any rank, following Light Infantry traditions since historically no Light Infantry officer rode on horseback. [26] (#cite_note-26) Scottish regiments wear kilts or tartan trews (/wiki/Trews) , and some wear tartan waistcoats as well. In "No. 11 Warm Weather Mess Dress", a white drill hip-length jacket is worn with either a waistcoat in the same material or a cummerbund of regimental pattern. Blue and various shades of red or green are the most common colours for the cummerbund. Trousers or overalls are the same as in No. 10 Dress. [27] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBarthorp1982137-27) Female officers and soldiers wear mess jackets in a pattern similar to those of their male counterparts over dark-coloured ankle-length evening dresses. Black hand bags may be carried, and black evening shoes are worn. Royal Air Force [ edit ] Air Chief Marshal (/wiki/Air_Chief_Marshal) Glenn Torpy (/wiki/Glenn_Torpy) of the Royal Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Air_Force) wearing No. 5B mess dress. No. 5 Mess dress in the Royal Air Force is similar to that in the Royal Navy, except that the jacket and trousers are in mid-blue. For the most formal white tie (/wiki/White_tie) occasions, such as state dinners, court balls and royal evening receptions, a white bow tie is worn with a white waistcoat (No. 5A). For all other evening events, a black bow tie with a mid-blue waistcoat (No. 5B) or a slate grey cummerbund (No. 5) is worn. Cummerbunds of a particular squadron or unit design may also be worn. Among Scottish-based units, a kilt of grey Clan Douglas (/wiki/Clan_Douglas) tartan was initially authorised, but the recently approved official RAF tartan is now authorised. The tartan, designed in 1988, was officially recognised by the Ministry of Defence (/wiki/Ministry_of_Defence_(United_Kingdom)) in 2001. [28] (#cite_note-Royal_Air_Force_Tartan-28) A variation of No. 1 Service Dress (SD) is also permitted; the usual blue shirt and black tie are replaced with a white shirt and black bow tie. This dress is referred to as No. 4 Mess Dress. In warm weather regions, a lightweight white jacket is substituted for the No. 5 mid-blue jacket. This uniform is designated No. 8 mess dress.. For women, mess dress currently consists of the same style high-waisted blue-grey single-breasted jacket and white marcella shirt as men, a small bow tie and cummerbund, and a straight ankle-length blue-gray skirt, worn with patent-leather court shoes (/wiki/Court_shoe) and barely-black tights or stockings. Unlike the gentlemen officers' jacket, which has a pointed lapel (/wiki/Lapel) , the ladies' jacket features a shawl collar. From the 1970s and prior to the introduction of current women's mess dress in 1996, female officers wore a royal blue Empire line (/wiki/Empire_line) dress made of crimplene (/wiki/Crimplene) material with a loose mandarin neck, long sleeves, and an ankle length hem. Rank was indicated on a small enamelled brooch worn near the neck. British police [ edit ] See also: Police uniforms and equipment in the United Kingdom § Uniform (/wiki/Police_uniforms_and_equipment_in_the_United_Kingdom#Uniform) Police officers may wear mess dress to formal dinners if appropriate, but is it most typically worn by officers who have achieved the rank of superintendent (/wiki/Superintendent_(police)) or above. [ citation needed ] The mess dress of the Metropolitan Police is dark blue with black cuffs and a black 'roll' collar having an embroidered badge ( Brunswick star (/wiki/Brunswick_star) ) on each lapel. That of the commissioner (/wiki/Commissioner_of_Police_of_the_Metropolis) includes a two-inch oak leaf lace strip on the trousers and a set of aiguillettes (/wiki/Aiguillette) . [29] (#cite_note-Metropolitan_Police_mess_dress-29) A matching black waistcoat is worn and badges of rank are displayed on the epaulettes. [30] (#cite_note-30) United States [ edit ] The use of mess dress in the United States Uniformed Services (/wiki/United_States_Uniformed_Services) started in the early 20th century. U.S. Army [ edit ] General (/wiki/General_(United_States)) Major (/wiki/Major_(United_States)) Mess dress for officers of various ranks in the United States Army (/wiki/United_States_Army) In 1902, when the U.S. Army (/wiki/United_States_Army) adopted its last standing collar blue uniform for full dress, a modified form of civilian tail coat was also introduced for evening dress, worn with a white tie and vest. This was known as the special uniform for evening wear. At the same time, a mess uniform resembling the British pattern was authorized for less formal evening occasions. The short mess jacket was either dark blue or white, according to climate. After 1911 the blue jacket included lapels in branch color (/wiki/United_States_Army_branch_insignia#Branch_of_service_insignia) (yellow for cavalry, red for artillery, light blue for infantry, and so on). The individual officer could wear full dress or either of the evening dress alternatives for social functions. In view of the expense involved, it was usually senior officers who appeared in mess or evening dress uniforms. While the blue full dress was worn from 1902 to 1917 by all ranks for ceremonial parades within the continental United States, the two optional evening uniforms were authorized only for officers. The various blue uniforms ceased to be worn after 1917. However, the white mess uniform for commissioned and warrant officers was authorized again in 1921. In 1928, wearing of the full range of blue dress uniforms was authorized for all ranks, but only when off duty, and at the expense of the individual. In practice, this meant that only the pre-1917 mess uniform, and to a lesser extent the special evening wear, reappeared in significant numbers. An overview of U.S. Army Air Corps' dress uniforms from 1937. (/wiki/File:US_Army_Air_Corps_new_uniforms-1937.ogv) Duration: 39 seconds. 0:39 After World War II, the evening dress and mess dress uniforms were reintroduced, with the tail coat having a single Austrian knot (/wiki/Austrian_knot) (trefoil) over the branch-of-service color (general officers had stars over an oak leaf braid), with the rank placed in the bottom opening of the knot. The mess jacket, intended for black-tie occasions, used an Austrian knot rank system with the branch insignia (/wiki/United_States_Army_branch_insignia) at the bottom. The number of knots indicated the officer's rank: five for colonel, four for lieutenant colonel, three for major, two for captain, one for first lieutenant, and none for second lieutenant. This complicated system, which required that the braid be altered with a change of rank, was replaced with the evening coat style in 1972, using a single knot and the rank placed above the branch-of-service color. A white mess jacket for summertime wear was introduced in the 1950s. The "special evening dress" (tails) was finally abolished in 1969, although officers already in possession of this uniform could continue to wear it until 1975. [31] (#cite_note-31) It was replaced by the Army blue mess uniform, which in its modern form closely resembles that of 1911. It is common for soldiers to wear suspenders in their branch color with the army dress uniform trousers, although they are concealed under the coat. The uniform has two variations, the Army blue mess uniform and Army blue evening mess uniform. The Army blue mess uniform is considered equivalent to black tie, and consists of the mess jacket, trousers, white semiformal dress shirt with a turndown collar, black bow tie, and black cummerbund. The Army blue evening mess uniform is considered equivalent to white tie/tails, and consists of the same jacket and trousers, but with a white formal dress shirt with a wing collar, white single-breasted vest, and white bow tie. [32] (#cite_note-32) U.S. Army female officer blue mess dress uniform Miniature medals are suspended on ribbons one half the width of their normal counterparts, and are worn on the left lapel. Exceptions to the miniature medals are the Medal of Honor (/wiki/Medal_of_Honor) , the Presidential Medal of Freedom (/wiki/Presidential_Medal_of_Freedom) (although the PMF also includes an optional miniature version), and authorized foreign neck-borne decorations (e.g., Knight Commander of Order of the Bath (/wiki/Order_of_the_Bath) , Commander of the Order of Military Merit (/wiki/Order_of_Military_Merit_(Canada)) , et al. ) Individual and unit awards that consist of ribbons only are not worn on the mess uniform. Miniature versions of combat and special skill badges (/wiki/Badges_of_the_United_States_Army#Combat_and_Special_Skill_Badges_and_Tabs) are worn above the miniature medals, along with miniature versions of Ranger (/wiki/Ranger_tab) and Special Forces shoulder tabs (/wiki/Special_Forces_Tab) , made of enameled metal. Marksmanship (/wiki/Marksmanship_Badge_(United_States)#United_States_Army) and driver/mechanic badges (/wiki/Driver_and_Mechanic_Badge) are not worn on the mess uniform. Regimental distinctive insignia is worn on the right lapel. Identification badges worn on service uniform pockets, such as the Drill Sergeant Identification Badge (/wiki/U.S._Military_Instructor_Badges#Army_Drill_Sergeant_Identification_Badge) , Presidential Service Badge (/wiki/Presidential_Service_Badge) , Recruiter Badge (/wiki/Recruiter_Badge#U.S._Army) , Office of the Joint Chiefs of Staff Identification Badge (/wiki/Office_of_the_Joint_Chiefs_of_Staff_Identification_Badge) , et al. , are worn between the top and middle buttons on the applicable side of the mess uniform. The lapels of enlisted mess uniforms are uniformly dark blue, rather than utilizing a branch color. Enlisted rank insignia is worn on the sleeve in the same manner as on the service uniform tunic. Below, on both sleeves, are long service stripes in place of the shorter stripes used on the service uniform. The same longer service stripes were worn on both sleeves of the blue dress uniform tunic until the blue dress uniform was reconfigured to be the Army's service uniform and replace the green service uniform. U.S. Air Force [ edit ] In the 1950s and 1960s, the U.S. Air Force (/wiki/United_States_Air_Force) formal uniform consisted of a civilian black tailcoat with added military sleeve braid and rank insignia. It could be worn as either a black tie or white tie combination. Due to the tails, it was not considered a mess dress uniform. The original U.S. Air Force mess dress consisted of a short black jacket with black trousers, with a white jacket for summer wear. The jackets had satin lapels with matching satin sleeve braid. It entered service in the 1960s and was phased out in the 1980s. It is still sometimes worn by retired officers. The current mess dress is similar in cut and tailoring, but in a dark blue color for year-round wear. United States Air Force (/wiki/United_States_Air_Force) personnel in mess dress uniforms. The current pattern was introduced in 1981 and is also similar to the Royal Air Force design, except that the coat and trousers are dark blue. Dark blue bow ties and dark blue cummerbunds are used for black-tie affairs, and white bow ties with white waistcoats for white-tie affairs. Silver-trimmed shoulder boards and silver sleeve braid are worn rather than rank braids (enlisted members wear sleeve rank insignia instead of shoulder boards, and no silver sleeve braid), along with silver buttons. No hat is worn. General officers have solid silver shoulder boards and wider silver sleeve braid. Enlisted members also have the option to wear the semi-formal uniform, essentially an issued service dress with a white shirt substituted for the blue shirt, but many non-commissioned officers elect to purchase a mess dress. Women's mess dress uniforms have a long skirt replacing the trousers and delete the button chain clasp for the coat. [33] (#cite_note-33) As of August 2020, females have the option to wear mess dress trousers. [34] (#cite_note-34) Members of the Civil Air Patrol, the United States Air Force Auxiliary, may wear the U.S. Air Force mess dress uniform with distinctive Civil Air Patrol insignia and trim. The Civil Air Patrol mess dress uniform is identical to the U.S. Air Force mess dress uniform, except that the silver braid on the jacket and officer rank insignia (shoulder boards) of the U.S. Air Force mess dress uniform is replaced with dark blue braid, and a Civil Air Patrol seal device 3" in size (either embroidered in bullion or finished in enamel) is worn in place of the middle button on the right side of the jacket. Members of the Civil Air Patrol NCO corps wear distinctive Civil Air Patrol NCO rank insignia in lieu of U.S. Air Force NCO rank insignia. Civil Air Patrol cadets do not wear the U.S. Air Force mess dress uniform, but may wear the semi-formal uniform described above for U.S. Air Force enlisted members, or a modified semi-formal dress uniform consisting of the old-style U.S. Air Force service uniform (with the four button jacket with patch-type pockets) with the name-tag removed and with Civil Air Patrol distinctive insignia, a white dress shirt, and a bow-tie (either black or U.S. Air Force satin blue). Civil Air Patrol senior members do not wear these semi-formal uniforms, but instead may wear a civilian equivalent consisting of a blue jacket, grey trousers, white dress shirt with a black bow-tie, and distinctive Civil Air Patrol insignia. Military courtesy and etiquette requirements for these Civil Air Patrol uniform combinations are similar to those of the U.S. Air Force. [35] (#cite_note-35) U.S. Marine Corps [ edit ] Marines wearing evening dress. The centre right male officer is wearing the boat cloak as an outer garment. The United States Marine Corps (/wiki/United_States_Marine_Corps) mess dress uniforms date from the late 19th century. Mess dress-style uniforms in the USMC are reserved for officers, and staff noncommissioned officers (SNCOs) of grade E6 and above (staff sergeant to sergeant major/master gunnery sergeant); NCOs and junior enlisted members wear dress blues (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Marine_Corps#Blue_Dress) or Service "A" (also known as "Alphas") as their most formal uniform. The uniform coat of commissioned and warrant officers is fastened at the neck, similar to that of the dress blue uniform, but is cut away, "cavalry-style", to expose the white dress shirt and scarlet cummerbund (general officers have a scarlet vest with small gold buttons). This version is known as evening dress "B," and is equivalent to formal "black tie" civilian attire. It is worn to formal dances, balls, dinners, and events such as the annual USMC Birthday Ball. Officers (all ranks) may wear, in lieu of the scarlet cummerbund or vest, a white vest for white tie events (known as the evening dress "A" uniform, and equivalent to "white tie" civilian attire for the most formal occasions such as a State Dinner or Presidential Inauguration Ball). [36] (#cite_note-:0-36) A United States Marine Corps Lieutenant Colonel (left) in evening dress "B" uniform. Officer rank, in gold or silver wire, is embroidered directly on the shoulder epaulettes, which are bordered with gold wire and scarlet piping. The collar and cuffs are also bordered in gold wire and scarlet, bearing a quatrefoil (/wiki/Quatrefoil) for warrant officers and company-grade officers (/wiki/Company-grade_officer) , a single row of oak leaves for field officers (/wiki/Field_officers) , and a double row of oak leaves for general officers (/wiki/General_officer) . The uniform is completed with midnight blue trousers with gold and red stripes. The individual also has the option to wear the boat cloak of dark blue broadcloth material lined with scarlet wool (for male officers and SNCOs) or an optional dress cape of dark blue polyester-wool tropical material lined with scarlet satin rayon cloth (for female officers and SNCOs). [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) Staff noncommissioned officers wear a double-breasted evening dress uniform similar to that of navy officers, with high waist dress blue trousers with blood stripe (/wiki/Blood_stripe) , scarlet cummerbund, and black bow tie. The jacket is cut so as to have no overlap, but with the sides clasped together. The grade chevrons are in the style of the 1890s, larger than other USMC enlisted grade chevrons, worn on each sleeve of the jacket. A white cummerbund with a white bow tie is authorized (for white tie events) for SNCO's. [36] (#cite_note-:0-36) A summer white mess dress (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Marine_Corps) (see link for pictures of the obsolete uniforms), similar in design to U.S. Navy and U.S. Coast Guard (/wiki/U.S._Coast_Guard) uniforms, but with shoulder epaulettes instead of rank boards, was worn until the mid-1990s when it was phased out. U.S. Navy, Coast Guard, Merchant Marine and others [ edit ] Officers and chief petty officers of the U.S. Navy (/wiki/United_States_Navy) , U.S. Coast Guard (/wiki/U.S._Coast_Guard) , United States Public Health Service Commissioned Corps (/wiki/United_States_Public_Health_Service_Commissioned_Corps) , NOAA Corps (/wiki/NOAA_Corps) , and Merchant Marine (/wiki/U.S._Merchant_Marine) use the same mess uniform (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Navy) , referred to as " dinner dress (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Navy#Dinner_Dress) ". There are three styles of this uniform—dinner dress, dinner dress jacket, and tropical dinner dress. Blue jacket White jacket Mess uniforms of the United States Coast Guard Auxiliary (/wiki/United_States_Coast_Guard_Auxiliary) Dinner dress uniforms, blue and white, are modifications of service dress blue or service dress white uniforms, with the service ribbons and breast insignia replaced by miniature medals and miniature breast insignia. Additionally, officers and chief petty officers wear an evening shirt and black bow tie with dinner dress blue. Dinner dress blue jacket and dinner dress white jacket consist of a black waist-length jacket with gold buttons (officer) or silver buttons (petty officer first class and below). The jacket is double-breasted, but does not overlap, and is held with a clasp. (This, in contrast to double-breasted civilian evening jackets, which are worn fully open, or double-breasted smoking jackets which are worn fully overlapped and buttoned). Bullion or imitation bullion rank stripes are worn on the sleeves of the officers' blue jacket, and a rating badge and service stripes are worn by enlisted personnel. On the officers' dinner dress white jacket, hard shoulder boards are worn. A gold cummerbund is worn by officers and chief petty officers, and a black one by petty officers first class and below. Shirt studs and cuff links are gold for officers and chiefs and silver for petty officers first class and below. A hat or cap is not required with dinner dress jacket uniforms, but may be worn. For both genders, it must be worn with an outer garment, which is traditionally the boat cloak for males and cape for females. Females do not need to remove headgear indoors when wearing the tiara. The boat cloak, tiara, and cape, all being optional items, are very rarely seen. [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) Tropical dinner dress blue incorporates dinner dress blue trousers, summer white (short sleeve) shirt, an appropriate cummerbund, and miniature medals and breast insignia. An additional uniform, formal dress (white tie), is optional for all commissioned officers, but may be prescribed for captains and above. This uniform is worn as an equivalent to civilian white tie dress. It is almost identical to the dinner dress blue jacket, except a wing collar shirt, white waistcoat, and white tie are worn. A formal blue tailcoat may also be prescribed. [41] (#cite_note-41) Members of the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary (/wiki/United_States_Coast_Guard_Auxiliary) wear the same dinner dress uniforms as the U.S. Navy and U.S. Coast Guard, but with a silver cummerbund and silver Coast Guard Auxiliary officer insignia in place of the gold insignia. Petty officers and below may, at their option, wear this same uniform, but with a black cummerbund and silver buttons. International organizations [ edit ] Two St. John Ambulance Canada (/wiki/St._John_Ambulance_Canada) officers in mess dress (black mess jacket, red vest), alongside Canadian Army personnel in mess dress. Various international organizations and civilian groups also use a form of mess dress. Several national first aid (/wiki/First_aid) organization under the St John Ambulance (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance) umbrella use mess uniforms as a part of the national uniform dress. Each mess uniform varies from nation to nation; however, it generally reflects the colours of St John, being Black, silver (white or grey) and red. The organization's cut and style, as well as accoutrements generally follow British military style. See also [ edit ] Military uniform (/wiki/Military_uniform) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Mess dress uniform Red Sea rig (/wiki/Red_Sea_rig) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Semi-formal wear (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) References [ edit ] Source notes ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKnötelKnötelSieg1980442–445_1-0) Knötel, Knötel & Sieg (1980) (#CITEREFKnötelKnötelSieg1980) , pp. 442–445. ^ (#cite_ref-2) DGHR-REG-DISPSYS-001 Ed. 001 / Rév. 000 – 20th February 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-3) A-AD-265-000/AG-001 Canadian Forces Dress Instructions, Chg 4 dates 16 March 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Etat-Major de l'Armée de Terre ; bureau logistique - Direction Centrale du Commissariat de l’Armée de Terre ; sous-direction logistique ; bureau réglementation - Instruction N° 10300/DEF/EMAT/LOG/ASH - DEF/DCCAT/LOG/REG relative aux tenues et uniformes des militaires des armes et services de l’armée de terre du 13 juin 2005. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBundeswehr_Dress_Codepara._262/1_5-0) Bundeswehr Dress Code (#CITEREFBundeswehr_Dress_Code) , para. 262/1. ^ Jump up to: a b Bundeswehr Dress Code (#CITEREFBundeswehr_Dress_Code) , paras. 261–264. ^ (#cite_ref-Jamaica_Defence_Force_7-0) "Uniforms" (http://www.jdfmil.org/equipment/uniforms/uniform_home2.php) . Jamaica Defence Force . Retrieved 25 March 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Gallaantrekk 2 (http://www.webstaff.no/141000%20Army%20Other%20Dresses/041102B.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20101226034746/http://www.webstaff.no/141000%20Army%20Other%20Dresses/041102B.htm) 26 December 2010 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , TJ 12-3 Uniformsreglement for hæren ^ (#cite_ref-9) Messeantrekk 2, Uniformsreglement for Marinen ^ (#cite_ref-10) "The Royal Family's Attire" (http://www.kungahuset.se/royalcourt/mediacentre/pressreleases/olderpressreleases/pressreleasesearlier/theroyalfamilysattire.5.40e05eec12926f2630480003630.htm) (Press release). Royal Court of Sweden (/wiki/Royal_Court_of_Sweden) . 19 June 2010. ^ Jump up to: a b Swedish Uniform Regulations (#CITEREFSwedish_Uniform_Regulations) , pp. 86–87. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESwedish_Uniform_Regulations43_12-0) Swedish Uniform Regulations (#CITEREFSwedish_Uniform_Regulations) , p. 43. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEyeomenoftheguard.com_-_uniform_13-0) yeomenoftheguard.com - uniform (#CITEREFyeomenoftheguard.com_-_uniform) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEyeomenoftheguard.com_-_gentlemen_at_arms_14-0) yeomenoftheguard.com - gentlemen at arms (#CITEREFyeomenoftheguard.com_-_gentlemen_at_arms) . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTETrendell192123–26_15-0) Trendell (1921) (#CITEREFTrendell1921) , pp. 23–26. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTETrendell1921192_16-0) Trendell (1921) (#CITEREFTrendell1921) , p. 192. ^ (#cite_ref-17) Alastair Campbell, page 57, "The Dress of the Royal Artillery, SBN 85368 491 X ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTECarman197790_18-0) Carman (1977) (#CITEREFCarman1977) , p. 90. ^ (#cite_ref-19) Alastair Campbell, page 58, "The Dress of the Royal Artillery, SBN 85368 491 X ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBarthorp1984173_20-0) Barthorp (1984) (#CITEREFBarthorp1984) , p. 173. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEWar_Office1911Sections_578–582_21-0) War Office (1911) (#CITEREFWar_Office1911) , Sections 578–582. ^ (#cite_ref-22) page 19 "Regiment" issue thirty - "The Royal Regiment of Wales", ^ (#cite_ref-23) page 20 "Regiment" issue twelve - "The Royal Regiment of Fusiliers", ^ (#cite_ref-24) Carman, W.Y. A Dictionary of Military Uniform . p. 90. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-684-15130-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTENewark1998129_25-0) Newark (1998) (#CITEREFNewark1998) , p. 129. ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Rifle Dress Guidance" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111112021434/http://www.army.mod.uk/documents/general/Rifles_Dress_Guidance_as_at_June_2009.pdf) (PDF) . British Army . Archived from the original (http://www.army.mod.uk/documents/general/Rifles_Dress_Guidance_as_at_June_2009.pdf) (PDF) on 12 November 2011 . Retrieved 2 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBarthorp1982137_27-0) Barthorp (1982) (#CITEREFBarthorp1982) , p. 137. ^ (#cite_ref-Royal_Air_Force_Tartan_28-0) "Royal Air Force Tartan" (http://www.kamrafa.co.uk/) . kamrafa.co.uk . Retrieved 8 August 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Metropolitan_Police_mess_dress_29-0) "Mess Uniform" (https://archive.today/20130131222106/http://www.policespecials.com/forum/index.php?/topic/60110-mess-uniform/page__p__1187341%23entry1187341) . PoliceSpecials.com Forum . Archived from the original (http://www.policespecials.com/forum/index.php?/topic/60110-mess-uniform/page__p__1187341#entry1187341) on 31 January 2013 . Retrieved 13 February 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Sir Bernard Hogan-Howe (L), Commissioner of the London Metropolitan Police Service, arrives at the Lord Mayor's Banquet at Guildhall in London, Britain, 11 November" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150716025436/http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-epa03945861-sir-bernard-hogan-howe-l-commissioner-of-the-london-metropolitan-62605995.html) . Alamy (/wiki/Alamy) . Archived from the original (http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-epa03945861-sir-bernard-hogan-howe-l-commissioner-of-the-london-metropolitan-62605995.html) on 16 July 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-31) Rosignoli, Guido (1976). Army Badges and Insignia Since 1945. Book One . pp. 138–139. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7137-0648-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Guide to the Wear and Appearance of Army Uniforms and Insignia" (https://armypubs.army.mil/ProductMaps/PubForm/Details.aspx?PUB_ID=1021155) . Army Publishing Directorate . U.S. Army . Retrieved 18 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) USAF Uniform Regulation https://static.e-publishing.af.mil/production/1/af_a1/publication/afi36-2903/afi36-2903.pdf (https://static.e-publishing.af.mil/production/1/af_a1/publication/afi36-2903/afi36-2903.pdf) ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Air Force women can now shed floor-length skirt for pants in formal 'mess dress' uniform" (https://www.stripes.com/news/air-force/air-force-women-can-now-shed-floor-length-skirt-for-pants-in-formal-mess-dress-uniform-1.640065) . Stars and Stripes . Retrieved 5 August 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Civil Air Patrol Uniform Regulation https://www.gocivilairpatrol.com/media/cms/M391_E6F33EAAEC28A.pdf (https://www.gocivilairpatrol.com/media/cms/M391_E6F33EAAEC28A.pdf) ^ Jump up to: a b Marine Corps Uniform Regulations. "MCO P1020.34G, with Changes 1-5" (http://www.marines.mil/Portals/59/Publications/MCO%20P1020.34G%20W%20CH%201-5.pdf) (PDF) . www.marines.mil . Retrieved 29 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "USMC Men's Boat Cloak | The Marine Shop" (https://www.marineshop.net/male-boat-cloak-501730) . www.marineshop.net . Retrieved 29 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Female Boat Cloak | The Marine Shop" (https://www.marineshop.net/female-boat-cloak-501731) . www.marineshop.net . Retrieved 29 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "United States Navy Uniform Regulations" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090525094939/http://buperscd.technology.navy.mil/bup_updt/508/unireg/Chapter3/uniformsMenu.htm) . Archived from the original (http://buperscd.technology.navy.mil/bup_updt/508/unireg/chapter3/uniformsMenu.htm) on 25 May 2009 . Retrieved 2 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Two Black Tires: Fractured Prune and Arlington Uniform Shop" (http://twoblacktires.blogspot.ca/2009/03/fractured-prune-and-arlington-uniform.html) . twoblacktires.blogspot.ca . 14 March 2009 . Retrieved 2 July 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "United States Navy Uniform Regulations-Tailcoat, Formal, Blue (Male Officers)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080703030758/http://buperscd.technology.navy.mil/bup_updt/508/unireg/Chapter3/3500_seriesArticles/3501_85.htm) . Archived from the original (http://buperscd.technology.navy.mil/bup_updt/508/unireg/chapter3/3500_seriesArticles/3501_85.htm) on 3 July 2008. This coat may be prescribed for males, captains and senior, to meet certain unique protocol requirements. Bibliography Knötel, Richard; Knötel, Herbert; Sieg, Herbert (1980). Uniforms of the World: A Compendium of Army, Navy, and Air Force Uniforms, 1700–1937 . New York: Scribner. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-684-16304-8 . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Trendell, Herbert A. P, ed. (1921). Dress and Insignia Worn at His Majesty's Court, Issued With the Authority of the Lord Chamberlain . London: Harrison. OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 13090804 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/13090804) . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Carman, W. Y. (September 1977). A Dictionary of Military Uniform . New York: Scribner. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-684-15130-4 . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Barthorp, Michael (1984). British Cavalry Uniforms Since 1660 . Poole, Dorset: Blandford Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7137-1043-4 . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Newark, Timothy (1 January 1998). Brassey's Book of Uniforms . London: Brassey's. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-85753-243-2 . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Barthorp, Michael (1982). British Infantry Uniforms Since 1660 . Poole, Dorset: New Orchard Editions. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-85079-009-9 . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Great Britain. War Office (1911). Dress Regulations for the Army . H.M. Stationery Office. OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 220555667 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/220555667) . Retrieved 26 May 2012 . Online sources "Anzugordnung für die Soldaten der Bundeswehr" (http://www.smafio.net/~sevtrek/FTP/ZDV/37_10/37_10.PDF) [Dress Codes for Soldiers of the Bundeswehr] (PDF) (in German). Bonn, Germany: Bundesministerium der Verteidigung [Federal Ministry of Defense] (/wiki/Federal_Ministry_of_Defence_(Germany)) . 16 June 1996. ZDv 37/10 (Central Service Regulations). {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) [ permanent dead link ] "UniR FM 2003 (Uniformsreglemente för Försvarsmakten)" (http://www.tjelvar.se/pdf/unir_2003.pdf) [Uniform Regulations for the Armed Forces] (PDF) (in Swedish). Stockholm: Försvarsmakten (/wiki/Swedish_Armed_Forces) . 10 September 2002. M7756-770002. {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) Norton, William. "Yeomen of the Queen's Body Guard" (http://yeomenoftheguard.com/#uniform0) . Retrieved 24 March 2012 . Norton, William. "Gentlemen at Arms" (http://yeomenoftheguard.com/gentlemen_at_arms.htm) . Retrieved 25 March 2012 . 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Spanish multinational fast-fashion company Zara Zara store in Midtown Manhattan (/wiki/Midtown_Manhattan) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded 1975 ; 49 years ago ( 1975 ) (as Zorba) in Spain Founders Amancio Ortega (/wiki/Amancio_Ortega) Rosalía Mera (/wiki/Rosal%C3%ADa_Mera) Headquarters Arteixo (/wiki/Arteixo) , Galicia (/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)) , Spain Number of locations 2,007 stores [1] (#cite_note-1) Area served Worldwide Products Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) Revenue €19.586 billion (2021) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Inditex (/wiki/Inditex) Website zara.com (https://www.zara.com/) Zara ( Spanish: [ˈθaɾa] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Spanish) ) is a fast-fashion (/wiki/Fast-fashion) retail subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary_company) of the Spanish multinational fashion design, manufacturing, and retailing group Inditex (/wiki/Inditex) . [2] (#cite_note-2) Zara sells clothing, accessories, beauty products and perfumes. [3] (#cite_note-3) The head office is located at Arteixo (/wiki/Arteixo) in the province of A Coruña (/wiki/Province_of_A_Coru%C3%B1a) , Galicia (/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)) . [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2020 alone, it launched over twenty new product lines. [5] (#cite_note-:22-5) History [ edit ] Early history [ edit ] Zara was started by Amancio Ortega (/wiki/Amancio_Ortega) and Rosalia Mera (/wiki/Rosalia_Mera) in 1975. Their first shop (/wiki/Clothes_shop) was in central A Coruña (/wiki/A_Coru%C3%B1a) , in Galicia (/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)) , Spain, where the company is still based. They initially called it 'Zorba' after the classic 1964 film Zorba the Greek (/wiki/Zorba_the_Greek_(film)) , but after learning there was a bar with the same name two blocks away, rearranged the letters to read 'Zara'. It is believed the extra 'a' came from an additional set of letters that had been made for the company. [6] (#cite_note-ny-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) It sold low-priced lookalike products of popular, higher-end clothing fashions. He subsequently opened more shops in Spain. During the 1980s, Zara changed the design, manufacturing, and distribution process to reduce lead times and react more quickly to new trends – what Ortega called "instant fashions" – using information technology and groups of designers rather than individuals. Zara's international expansion was a calculated move by Ortega and Mera, who not only revolutionised the fashion industry with "instant fashions," but also opened stores throughout Europe and eventually the world. By keeping up a quick turnaround time and paying close attention to customer preferences, Zara established itself as a leader in global fashion by quickly delivering stylish apparel at reasonable costs. Expansion [ edit ] The first shop outside Spain was opened in 1985 in Porto (/wiki/Porto) , Portugal. [8] (#cite_note-8) In 1989, the company entered the United States, and then France in 1990. [9] (#cite_note-9) During the 1990s, Zara expanded to Mexico (1992), [10] (#cite_note-10) Greece, Belgium, Sweden (1993) and Israel (1997). [11] (#cite_note-11) In the 2000s, Zara opened its first stores in Brazil (2000); Japan and Singapore (2002); Ireland, Venezuela, Russia and Malaysia (2003); [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-book-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) China, [16] (#cite_note-16) Morocco, [17] (#cite_note-17) Estonia, [18] (#cite_note-18) Hungary [19] (#cite_note-19) and Romania (2004); [20] (#cite_note-20) the Philippines, [14] (#cite_note-book-14) Costa Rica [21] (#cite_note-21) and Indonesia (2005); [22] (#cite_note-22) Colombia (2007); [23] (#cite_note-23) and South Korea (2008). [24] (#cite_note-24) In the 2010s Zara began to roll out locations in India (2010); [25] (#cite_note-25) Taiwan, South Africa and Australia (2011); [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) and Peru (2012). [28] (#cite_note-28) In September 2010, Zara launched its online boutique. The website began in Jordan. [29] (#cite_note-29) In November of the same year, Zara Online extended its service to five more countries: Austria, Ireland, the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg. [30] (#cite_note-fashionmag-30) Online stores began operating in the United States in 2011, [31] (#cite_note-31) Russia and Canada in 2013, [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) Mexico in 2014, [35] (#cite_note-35) South Korea in 2014, [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) Romania in 2016, [38] (#cite_note-38) India in 2017, Israel and Brazil in 2019, [39] (#cite_note-39) and Peru in 2020. [40] (#cite_note-40) In 2015, Zara was ranked #30 on Interbrand's list of best global brands. [41] (#cite_note-41) In 2019, Zara updated their logo. [42] (#cite_note-42) It was designed by the French agency Baron & Baron. [43] (#cite_note-43) The global fashion business Journal MDS stated that while the textile commerce of the world had gone down by 2.38%, Zara's had risen 2.17%. [44] (#cite_note-44) Chief Executive Persson said the brand is waiting for more acceptable global rent levels to continue its expansion. In Europe, the brand planned to cut the number of retail locations beginning in 2020. [45] (#cite_note-fortune-45) In 2021, Zara left Venezuela by the economic struggles in the country. [46] (#cite_note-46) As of January 2023, the clothing retailer has nearly 3000 stores, including its kids and home stores. Spanning over 96 countries and continuing to grow. [45] (#cite_note-fortune-45) In April 2023, Zara left Russia by selling the business to Fashion and More Management DVCC. The brand changed its name to Maag. [47] (#cite_note-47) Corporate affairs [ edit ] The key trends for Zara (including Zara Home) are as at the financial year ending 31 January: [48] (#cite_note-48) 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 Revenue [a] (#cite_note-49) (€ b) 15.4 16.7 18.1 19.6 14.2 19.7 23.9 Profit before taxes (€ b) 2.7 3.0 3.1 3.3 0.96 2.8 4.0 Return on Capital Employed (%) 30 30 28 30 9 25 31 Total Assets 15.0 16.0 17.3 22.7 21.3 23.6 24.8 Number of stores 2,213 2,251 2,862 2,866 2,653 2,489 2,312 Share of stores franchised (%) 13 12 13 13 12 12 13 References [49] (#cite_note-50) [50] (#cite_note-51) Products [ edit ] Zara stores have men's and women's clothing as well as children's clothing (Zara Kids). Zara Home designs are located in European stores. The majority of Zara customers are aged between 18 and about 35. After products are designed, they take 10 to 15 days to reach the stores. [51] (#cite_note-52) All of the clothing is processed through the distribution center in Spain. New items are inspected, sorted, tagged, and loaded into trucks. In most cases, the clothing is delivered within 48 hours. Zara produces over 450 million items per year. [52] (#cite_note-53) Zara also includes accessories, shoes, swimwear, beauty and perfumes. In May 2021, Zara launched its first beauty line, ZARA Beauty. [53] (#cite_note-54) Under its Zara Home line, Zara launched what is believed to be the first detergent that reduces the abrasion of textile microfibres during washing. It is claimed the solution, jointly developed by Inditex and BASF Home Care and I&I Solutions Europe in Spain and Germany, can reduce the release of microfibres by up to 80 per cent, depending on fabric type and washing conditions. [54] (#cite_note-55) Manufacturing and distribution [ edit ] Reportedly, Zara needs just one week to develop a new product and get it to stores, compared to the six-month industry average, and makes roughly 40,000 designs of which around 12,000 new designs are selected and produced each year. [55] (#cite_note-56) Zara has a policy of zero advertising; [6] (#cite_note-ny-6) the company preferred to invest a percentage of revenues in opening new stores instead. [56] (#cite_note-57) Zara set up its own factory in La Coruña (a city known for its textile industry) in 1980 and upgraded to reverse milk-run (/wiki/Milk_run) -type production and distribution facilities in 1990. This approach, designed by Toyota Motor Corp., was called the just-in-time (JIT) system. [57] (#cite_note-GRIN_Verlag-58) It enabled the company to establish a business model that allows self-containment throughout the stages of materials, manufacture, product completion, and distribution to stores worldwide within just a few days. [58] (#cite_note-59) [57] (#cite_note-GRIN_Verlag-58) Most of the products Zara sells are manufactured in Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Morocco, Bangladesh [6] (#cite_note-ny-6) [59] (#cite_note-60) and more recently - Armenia (/wiki/Armenia) . While some competitors outsource all production to Asia, Zara manufactures its most fashionable items – half of all its merchandise – at a dozen company-owned factories in Spain (particularly in Galicia (/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)) ), Portugal (/wiki/Portugal) (northern part) and Turkey (/wiki/Turkey) . Clothes with a longer shelf life, such as basic T-shirts, are outsourced to low-cost suppliers, mainly in Asia. [60] (#cite_note-61) The company can design a new product and have finished goods in its stores in four to five weeks; it can modify existing items in as little as two weeks, which results from its advanced operation management. [57] (#cite_note-GRIN_Verlag-58) Shortening the product life cycle (/wiki/Product_lifecycle) means greater success in meeting consumer preferences. [61] (#cite_note-62) If a design does not sell well within a week, it is withdrawn from shops, further orders are canceled and a new design is pursued. Zara monitors customers' fashion changes. [62] (#cite_note-63) Zara has a range of basic designs that are carried over from year to year, but some fashion-forward designs can stay on the shelves less than four weeks, which encourages Zara fans to make repeat visits. An average high-street store in Spain expects customers to visit three times a year. That goes up to 17 times for Zara. [63] (#cite_note-64) As a result of increasing competitive pressures from the online shopping (/wiki/Online_shopping) market, Zara is shifting its focus onto online as well, and will consequently open fewer but larger stores in the future. [64] (#cite_note-65) In May 2022, a £1.95 return fee was implemented for some online orders in Britain and other core markets. [65] (#cite_note-66) This fee was introduced in Spain as of February 2023. [66] (#cite_note-67) In November 2022, a pre-owned platform will also be launched via its website and app in UK. Other than posting now-unwanted Zara purchases online for sale, shoppers can book repairs and donate unwanted items online or via a store. If successful, this service will be expanded to other key markets. [67] (#cite_note-68) Starting November 2022, Russians will be able to order products online from a range U.S. and European brands, including Nike, Zara and H&M, according to an announcement from Russia's postal service. [68] (#cite_note-69) The men's department of a typical Zara store. Almere, Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) Zara clothing made in Portugal (/wiki/Portugal) Zara store in New York City, near One World Trade Center (/wiki/One_World_Trade_Center) Zara store in Columbus, Ohio (/wiki/Columbus,_Ohio) Non-toxic clothing [ edit ] In 2010, Greenpeace (/wiki/Greenpeace) started a dialog with Zara to ban toxics from the clothing production. [69] (#cite_note-toxic-free-70) Greenpeace published its "Toxic threads: the big fashion stitch-up" report in November 2012 as part of its Detox Campaign identifying companies that use toxic substances in their manufacturing processes. [70] (#cite_note-report-71) Nine days after the report was published, Zara committed to eradicating all releases of hazardous chemicals throughout its entire supply chain and products by 2020. [71] (#cite_note-72) Zara became the biggest retailer in the world to raise awareness for the Detox Campaign, [72] (#cite_note-morgen-73) and switched to a fully toxic-free production. [69] (#cite_note-toxic-free-70) [ needs update ] Controversies [ edit ] Allegations of antisemitism [ edit ] In 2007, Zara withdrew a handbag from its shelves after a customer noticed a swastika (/wiki/Swastika) on the bag's design. The bag came from an external supplier, and Zara claimed the symbol was not visible when the handbag was chosen. Zara withdrew the product from stores, and spokesperson Susan Suett said the bag would not have been sourced had the symbol been apparent. [73] (#cite_note-74) In August 2014, Zara received criticism for selling a toddler T-shirt for closely resembling uniforms worn by Jewish concentration camp inmates. The T-shirt was striped and featured a yellow star similar to the Star of David. Zara said the design was inspired by "the sheriff's stars from the classic western films". Zara removed the shirt from sale a few hours after they appeared for sale, and apologized. [74] (#cite_note-Huffington_Post-75) Zara received criticism for selling the T-shirt in Israel because the country does not have sheriffs. Additionally, the word "Sheriff" is outlined in transparent letters on the bright yellow star. [74] (#cite_note-Huffington_Post-75) The Anti-Defamation League responded to the shirt, saying that it was offensive, but welcomed Zara's recognition of the potential imagery and removing the shirt from sale. [75] (#cite_note-76) Labour practices [ edit ] In August 2011, a Brazilian television show accused the company of using sweatshops (/wiki/Sweatshop) for their outsourced (/wiki/Outsource) production. The Regional Superintendency of Labour and Employment of São Paulo, Brazil, closed a factory that produced Zara's clothing for its poor labour conditions. [76] (#cite_note-77) Zara's representatives said the accusations of slave labour (/wiki/Slave_labour) made against the retailer represent a breach of the code of conduct for workshops of Inditex. The company also states factories responsible for unauthorized outsourcing have been asked to regularize immediately the situation of the workers involved. [77] (#cite_note-78) In September 2013, Bangladeshi garment workers for suppliers to Zara and its parent company, Inditex, protested following the 2013 Dhaka garment factory collapse (/wiki/2013_Dhaka_garment_factory_collapse) , demanding a US$100 a month minimum wage. [78] (#cite_note-Protests-79) Inditex does not publicly disclose the factories that produce their branded clothing. [79] (#cite_note-disclose-80) In 2016, BBC News (/wiki/BBC_News) stated they found evidence of child labor and exploitation in factories in Turkey. Zara replied that there were some issues in June 2016 in one single factory and, instead of solving these issues immediately, they have given a period of six months to solve them. [80] (#cite_note-81) In November 2017, customers shopping at Zara stores in Istanbul, Turkey, found handwritten notes purportedly from Turkish workers in the pockets of in-store garments asking shoppers to pressure Zara into paying them unpaid wages. [81] (#cite_note-82) The company clarified the unpaid wages were due to a third-party manufacturer Bravo Tekstil, [82] (#cite_note-83) who had failed to pay their employees in the period up to its closing after going bankrupt. [83] (#cite_note-84) The company said they would help to provide compensation to employees who weren't paid. [84] (#cite_note-85) In the agreement, only factory-floor employees were compensated, with "white-collar" employees not covered by the agreement. [85] (#cite_note-86) In 2022, about 1,000 shop assistants who work at Zara and other fashion brands owned by Inditex went on strike on Black Friday in the company's home town in northern Spain to demand better salaries. [86] (#cite_note-87) Prior to a second strike, Inditex, Zara's parent company, has agreed to pay 322 euros more per month to shop assistants from 44 stores. Workers will also get a one-off bonus of 1,000 euros to be paid in February 2023. [ needs update ] [87] (#cite_note-88) In December 2023, Yle (/wiki/Yle) reported in Finland (/wiki/Finland) that the local Occupational Safety and Health Administration and Regional State Administrative Agency (/wiki/Regional_State_Administrative_Agency) had investigated the four Zara stores under suspicions of illegal labour practices. In the investigation it was found that the workload the employees were subjected to were illegal. In one store, 95% of respondents to the authorities' enquiry felt that the workload is unbearable. [88] (#cite_note-Dec_2023_Finland-89) Copyright infringement [ edit ] In July 2016, complaints were made against Zara that they had been stealing designs from multiple independent designers for their products. One of the designers, Tuesday Bassen, who previously worked with brands including Urban Outfitters (/wiki/Urban_Outfitters) and Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) , contacted Zara. The company responded Bassen's designs were not distinctive enough, and they received only a handful of complaints given the large volume of traffic they receive on their site. When the news was picked up by media outlets, Inditex, Zara's owning company, stated that the items in question have been suspended from sale, and that they are in contact with Bassen's lawyer to clarify and address the issue. [89] (#cite_note-90) [90] (#cite_note-91) As of April 2018, MaXhosa by Laduma (/w/index.php?title=MaXhosa_by_Laduma&action=edit&redlink=1) is taking legal action (/wiki/Complaint) against Zara for copying its designs. [91] (#cite_note-92) Zara responded to complaints from the designer by removing socks that resembled his artistic style. [92] (#cite_note-93) Melania Trump [ edit ] In June 2018, a Zara jacket with "I really don't care, do u?" emblazoned on the back became controversial after it was worn by Melania Trump (/wiki/Melania_Trump) when she visited a detention center for migrant children separated from their parents. [93] (#cite_note-94) Political controversy in China [ edit ] In January 2018, Shanghai's internet authority summoned representatives of Zara, chastising the company for listing Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) as a country and ordering it to rectify the situation immediately. [94] (#cite_note-95) In September 2019, Zara supported Hong Kong strikes; however after pressures from Chinese social media Zara was forced to issue a statement expressing its support of the "one country, two systems" policy adopted by China in ruling Hong Kong, and its disapproval of anti-government strikes. [95] (#cite_note-96) Xinjiang region [ edit ] In 2020, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute (/wiki/Australian_Strategic_Policy_Institute) accused at least 82 major brands, including Zara, of being connected to forced Uyghur (/wiki/Uyghurs) labor in Xinjiang (/wiki/Xinjiang) . [96] (#cite_note-97) Allegations of anti-Palestinian bullying and imagery [ edit ] In June 2021, the company's women's head fashion designer Vanessa Perilman (/w/index.php?title=Vanessa_Perilman&action=edit&redlink=1) made anti-Palestinian comments in response to Palestinian model Qaher Harhash (/wiki/Qaher_Harhash) . [97] (#cite_note-el-shai.com-98) After receiving backlash for her comments when they were made public by Qaher, Perilman apologized and Zara later asked Qaher to post Perilman's apology on his social media. [97] (#cite_note-el-shai.com-98) Because of Zara's delayed response, and decision to not fire Perilman, calls to boycott Zara emerged through social media. [98] (#cite_note-99) [99] (#cite_note-100) In December 2023, Zara faced backlash over the release of their "ZARA ATELIER. Collection 04_The Jacket." campaign. [100] (#cite_note-101) The Advertising Standards Authority (/wiki/Advertising_Standards_Authority_(United_Kingdom)) (ASA) received 50 complaints about the advert, [101] (#cite_note-:0-102) which included photos of a model posing with a mannequin wrapped in plastic, and others where the model was surrounded by rubble and rocks with a cardboard cut out of what appeared similar to the map of Palestine. Commenters likened the similarity of the promotional photos to the images of the aftermath of air strikes in Palestine (/wiki/2023_Israel%E2%80%93Hamas_war) and called for a boycott (/wiki/Boycott) of the brand. [102] (#cite_note-103) The campaign was subsequently removed from their app and website, and some images removed from their Instagram account. [101] (#cite_note-:0-102) On December 12, Zara announced that it "regrets" a "misunderstanding" about the ad campaign and that it was photographed in September. [103] (#cite_note-104) Trademark Action [ edit ] In April 2022 it was reported that Zara had taken legal action against "Tara Sartoria", a small clothing company owned by Vietnamese citizen Tara Nguyen. Ms. Nguyen's company sells products made by disadvantaged women in Indonesia and Vietnam. [104] (#cite_note-105) Stores [ edit ] As of November 2021, there were 2,264 stores across 96 countries. [105] (#cite_note-106) In early 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) , Zara stores worldwide closed temporarily due to restrictions. However, in April 2020 Zara's owner ramped up shipment to Asia as China ended its lockdown after 76 days. [106] (#cite_note-107) See also [ edit ] Spain portal (/wiki/Portal:Spain) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Bershka (/wiki/Bershka) H&M (/wiki/H%26M) Explanatory notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Sales to third parties" References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) inditex.com (https://www.inditex.com/about-us/inditex-around-the-world#continent/000) ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Global stretch" (http://www.economist.com/node/18333093) . The Economist . 10 March 2011 . Retrieved 5 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "ZARA United States | New Collection Online" (https://www.zara.com/us/) . www.zara.com . 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Ecommerce News. 28 March 2014 . Retrieved 29 April 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Zara launches online sales in Israel" (https://en.globes.co.il/en/article-zara-launches-online-sales-in-israel-1001285843) . Globes . 15 May 2019 . Retrieved 29 December 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Perú: Zara anuncia la apertura de su tienda online" (http://guiadelretail.com/peru-zara-anuncia-la-apertura-de-su-tienda-online/) . Perú Retail . 3 June 2020 . Retrieved 20 January 2021 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Zara" (http://interbrand.com/best-brands/best-global-brands/2015/ranking/zara/) . Interbrand . Retrieved 9 June 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Zara's new logo may be the future of branding, love it or hate it" (https://www.fastcompany.com/90298669/zaras-new-logo-may-be-the-future-of-branding-love-it-or-hate-it) . Fast Company . 29 January 2019 . Retrieved 15 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "ZARA's new logo squeezes out criticism from other designers" (https://www.designboom.com/design/zara-new-logo-baron-baron-02-05-2019/) . 5 February 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Giants in the kingdom of Zara: Inditex, H&M and Primark dominate 38% of fashion sales" (https://www.themds.com/companies/giants-in-the-kingdom-of-zara-inditex-hm-and-primark-dominate-38-of-fashion-sales.html) . www.themds.com . Retrieved 31 July 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b "H&M and Zara Are Closing Stores To Get Ahead" (https://fortune.com/2019/08/11/hm-zara-store-closing/) . Fortune . Retrieved 11 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Inditex regresa a Venezuela tres años después de su marcha" (https://elpais.com/america/2024-01-20/inditex-regresa-a-venezuela-tres-anos-despues-de-su-marcha.html?outputType=amp) . 20 January 2024. ^ (#cite_ref-47) "Магазины Zara в России открываются под новым названием" (https://www.banki.ru/news/lenta/?id=10982937) . Banki.ru (in Russian). 5 April 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Inditex Accounts & Reports" (https://www.inditex.com/itxcomweb/en/investors/finance#accounts-reports) . www.inditex.com . Retrieved 25 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) "Inditex Annual Report 2016" (https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2021/en/documents/annual-report-2016.pdf) (PDF) . Inditex . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "Inditex Annual Report 2017" (https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2017/assets/pdf/memoria_en.pdf) (PDF) . Inditex . ^ (#cite_ref-52) The Future of Fashion Retailing: The Zara Approach (https://www.forbes.com/sites/gregpetro/2012/10/25/the-future-of-fashion-retailing-the-zara-approach-part-2-of-3/) 25 October 2012. Greg Petro. Forbes. accessed 5 April 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-53) Zara's Fast-Fashion Edge (https://www.bloomberg.com/bw/articles/2013-11-14/2014-outlook-zaras-fashion-supply-chain-edge) . Susan Berfield and Manuel Baigorri. 14 November 2013. Bloomberg. accessed 5 April 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-54) Wong, Veronica (10 May 2021). "Zara Introduces Refillable Beauty With Its First-Ever Beauty Line" (https://hypebeast.com/2021/5/zara-beauty-release-info) . Retrieved 13 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Mathews, Brett (30 November 2022). "Zara detergent tackles microfibre shedding" (https://apparelinsider.com/zara-launches-detergent-to-tackle-microfibres/) . Apparel Insider . Retrieved 5 December 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) Burgen, Stephen (17 August 2012). "Fashion chain Zara helps Inditex lift first quarter profits by 30%" (https://www.theguardian.com/business/2012/aug/17/zara-inditex-profits) . The Guardian . Retrieved 12 January 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Zara's Big Idea: What the World's Top Fashion Retailer Tells Us About Innovation (https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2012/11/zaras-big-idea-what-the-worlds-top-fashion-retailer-tells-us-about-innovation/265126/) . Derek Thompson. 13 November 2012. The Atlantic. accessed 5 April 2016 ^ Jump up to: a b c Johan, Albert; Purnama, Maurice (2009). Zara Operation Management Key Values . GRIN Verlag. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783346094896 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) Kojima, Kensuke (2011). Uniqlo Syndrome . Japan: Tenkai. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-492-76191-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) The 5 ingredients of Zara's success (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/the-5-ingredients-of-zaras-success/) . Bibby Sowray. 11 December 2015. Telegraph. accessed 5 April 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-61) Fashion Conquistador (https://web.archive.org/web/20060901053905/http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/06_36/b3999063.htm) Businessweek ^ (#cite_ref-62) "Executive Masters in International Logistics at Georgia Tech" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160305044211/http://www.emil.gatech.edu/news-events/article.php?aid=181) . Archived from the original (http://www.emil.gatech.edu/news-events/article.php?aid=181) on 5 March 2016 . Retrieved 12 May 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) Friedman, Thomas (2006). The World is Flat . New York: Farrar, Straus, and Giroux. p. 154. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-374-29279-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-64) Roux, Caroline (28 October 2002). "The reign of Spain" (https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2002/oct/28/fashion.shopping) . The Guardian . Retrieved 22 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) "Even Zara Can Have a Wardrobe Malfunction" (https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-03-14/zara-loses-its-zip) . Bloomberg.com . 14 March 2018 . Retrieved 14 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) Pooley, Cat Rutter (20 July 2022). "Fast fashion is slowing down — for its own good" (https://www.ft.com/content/caf694df-f545-4335-bb59-b88b5fa3ae10) . Financial Times . ^ (#cite_ref-67) "Zara starts charging for clothing returns from home in Spain" (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/zara-starts-charging-clothing-returns-home-spain-2023-02-01/) . Reuters . 1 February 2023 . Retrieved 3 February 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Butler, Sarah (21 October 2022). "Zara enters resale market with Pre-owned service" (https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/oct/21/zara-enters-resale-market-pre-owned-service) . The Guardian . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Russians can buy Zara dresses and Nike sneakers again" (https://www.politico.eu/article/russia-zara-nike-hm-fashion-ukraine-war-sanctions/) . POLITICO . 29 November 2022 . Retrieved 30 November 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "People! Zara commits to go toxic-free" (http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/news/features/Zara-commits-to-go-toxic-free) . Greenpeace.org . 29 November 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-report_71-0) "Toxic threads: the big fashion stitch-up" (http://www.greenpeace.org/international/Global/international/publications/toxics/Water%202012/ToxicThreads01.pdf) (PDF) . Greenpeace.org . 20 November 2012. pp. 15, 24. ^ (#cite_ref-72) Alice Newbold (1 December 2012). "Zara Just Caved To Greenpeace And Agreed To Stop Using Toxic Chemicals" (http://www.businessinsider.com/zara-bans-toxic-chemicals-2012-11) . Business Insider . Retrieved 29 April 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-morgen_73-0) "Greenpeace voert actie bij Zara tegen giftige kleding" (https://archive.today/20131030081643/http://www.demorgen.be/dm/nl/989/Binnenland/article/detail/1539207/2012/11/24/Greenpeace-voert-actie-bij-Zara-tegen-giftige-kleding.dhtml) . De Morgen (in Dutch). 24 November 2012. Archived from the original (https://www.demorgen.be/dm/nl/989/Binnenland/article/detail/1539207/2012/11/24/Greenpeace-voert-actie-bij-Zara-tegen-giftige-kleding.dhtml) on 30 October 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-74) "Zara withdraws swastika handbags" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7002765.stm) . BBC.co.uk . British Broadcasting Corporation. 19 September 2007 . Retrieved 25 April 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Kaufman, Alexander (27 August 2014). "Zara Apologizes for Pajamas That Look Just Like A Concentration Camp Uniform" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/08/27/zara-anti-semitism_n_5722162.html) . The Huffington Post . Retrieved 25 April 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-76) Grinberg, Emanuella (28 August 2014). "Retailer pulls shirts reminiscent of Holocaust" (http://www.cnn.com/2014/08/27/living/zara-pulls-sheriff-star-shirt/) . CNN.com . Cable News Network . Retrieved 25 April 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-77) Guerra, Carolina (17 August 2011). "Marca Zara está envolvida em denúncia de trabalho escravo" (http://veja.abril.com.br/noticia/economia/trabalho-escravo-encontrado-na-rede-da-zara) . VEJA (/wiki/Veja_(magazine)) (in Portuguese) . Retrieved 22 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-78) Antunes, Anderson (17 August 2011). "Zara Accused Of Alleged 'Slave Labor' In Brazil" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/andersonantunes/2011/08/17/zara-accused-of-alleged-slave-labor-in-brazil/) . Forbes . ^ (#cite_ref-Protests_79-0) Nashrulla, Tasneem (23 September 2013). "The People Who Make H&M, Gap, And Zara Clothes Earn $38 A Month And Are Demanding $100" (https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/tasneemnashrulla/the-person-who-most-likely-made-your-hm-gap-or-zara-clothes) . Buzzfeed News . Retrieved 16 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-disclose_80-0) Kashyap, Aruna (2 May 2018). "When Clothing Labels Are a Matter of Life or Death" (https://www.thedailybeast.com/when-clothing-labels-are-a-matter-of-life-or-death) . The Daily Beast . The Daily Beast . Retrieved 16 April 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-81) "Syrian child refugees making UK clothes" (https://www.bbc.com/news/business-37716463) . BBC News . 24 October 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-82) Young, Sarah (5 November 2017). "Unpaid laborers are 'slipping pleas for help into Zara clothes" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/zara-istanbul-unpaid-workers-inditex-bravo-clothing-tags-notes-a8037256.html) . The Independent . Retrieved 5 November 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-83) "UNPAID LABOURERS ARE 'SLIPPING PLEAS FOR HELP INTO ZARA CLOTHES' (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/zara-istanbul-unpaid-workers-inditex-bravo-clothing-tags-notes-a8037256.html) " (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/zara-istanbul-unpaid-workers-inditex-bravo-clothing-tags-notes-a8037256.html) . Independent.co.uk (/wiki/Independent.co.uk) . 6 November 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-84) "Zara shoppers find labor complaints inside clothes" (https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-41981509) . BBC News . 15 November 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-85) Segran, Elizabeth (6 November 2017). "The Real Story Behind Those Desperate Notes That Zara Workers Left In Clothes" (https://www.fastcompany.com/40492215/the-real-story-behind-those-desperate-notes-that-zara-workers-left-in-clothes) . Fast Company . Retrieved 11 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-86) "Unpaid Zara garment workers say they still haven't seen a cent" (https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/zara-inditex-workers-still-unpaid-1.4414831) . CBC . ^ (#cite_ref-87) "Zara shopworkers stage Black Friday strike in fashion group's hometown" (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/zara-shopworkers-stage-black-friday-strike-fashion-groups-hometown-2022-11-25/) . Reuters . 25 November 2022 . Retrieved 29 November 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-88) Pons, Corina (23 December 2022). "Zara shopworkers call off strikes in company's hometown after 25% pay rise - union" (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/zara-shopworkers-call-off-strikes-companys-hometown-after-pay-rise-deal-union-2022-12-23/) . Reuters . Retrieved 27 December 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-Dec_2023_Finland_89-0) "Terveydelle vaarallista työtä" (https://yle.fi/a/74-20065005) . Yle (in Finnish). 18 December 2023 . Retrieved 18 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-90) Davies, Madeleine (20 July 2016). "Zara Copies Indie Artist's Work, Then Says She's Not Famous Enough For It to Matter" (http://jezebel.com/zara-copies-indie-artists-work-then-says-shes-not-famo-1783970547) . jezebel.com . Retrieved 13 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-91) Addady, Michal (20 July 2016). "12 Artists Are Accusing Zara of Stealing Their Designs" (http://fortune.com/2016/07/20/zara-stealing-designs/) . Fortune . Retrieved 4 October 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-92) Matangira, Lungelo. "Maxhosa's Laduma on Zara design knock-offs: It's shocking & lacks integrity" (http://ewn.co.za/2018/04/24/maxhosa-s-laduma-on-zara-sock-copies) . Retrieved 25 April 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-93) Eytan, Declan. "How Laduma Ngxokolo Battled Cultural Appropriation And Is Building An African Luxury Heritage Brand" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/declaneytan/2019/01/31/how-laduma-ngxokolo-battled-cultural-appropriation-and-is-building-an-african-luxury-heritage-brand/) . Forbes . Retrieved 11 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-94) Heil, Emily (21 June 2018). "How Melania Trump's jacket choice overtook her visit to the Texas border shelters" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/reliable-source/wp/2018/06/21/writing-on-melania-trumps-jacket-causes-controversy-before-border-visit/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 7 July 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-95) Pham, Sherisse (12 January 2018). "Delta flies into China trouble over Tibet and Taiwan" (https://money.cnn.com/2018/01/12/news/companies/delta-zara-china-taiwan-tibet/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved 11 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-96) "Fashion brand Zara seeks to distance itself from Hong Kong controversy" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-hongkong-protests-zara-idUSKCN1VO0HN/) . Reuters . 6 September 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-97) Xu, Vicky Xiuzhong; Cave, Danielle; Leibold, James; Munro, Kelsey; Ruser, Nathan (1 March 2020). "Uyghurs for sale" (https://www.aspi.org.au/report/uyghurs-sale) . Australian Strategic Policy Institute. ^ Jump up to: a b "Zara's Head of Design Attacks Palestinian Model, Qaher Harhash, in Islamophobic Rant" (https://www.el-shai.com/zaras-head-of-design-qaher-harhash-islamophobic/) . El-Shai . 13 June 2021 . Retrieved 3 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-99) Jack Guy (16 June 2021). "Zara under fire after top designer sends Palestinian model inflammatory messages" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/vanessa-perilman-zara-messages-scli-intl/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved 22 June 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-100) Abdelkader, Rima (17 June 2021). "Fashion retailer Zara condemns anti-Palestinian comments made by designer" (https://www.nbcnews.com/news/world/fashion-retailer-zara-condemns-anti-palestinian-comments-made-designer-n1270940) . NBC News (/wiki/NBC_News) . ^ (#cite_ref-101) "Instagram" (https://www.instagram.com/p/C0i1m5rtNtu/?img_index=1) . www.instagram.com . Retrieved 9 December 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Zara advert accused of resembling Gaza images" (https://www.bbc.com/news/business-67681865) . BBC News . 11 December 2023 . Retrieved 11 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-103) "Zara faces huge backlash over controversial campaign" (https://en.royanews.tv/news/47324/2023-12-09) . en.royanews.tv . Retrieved 9 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-104) "Zara says it regrets Gaza images misunderstanding" (https://www.bbc.com/news/business-67690447) . BBC News . 12 December 2023 . Retrieved 12 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-105) "Zara orders House of Zana to drop name over trademark row" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-tees-61259100) . BBC News . 30 April 2022 . Retrieved 30 April 2022 . Another company locked in the same dispute with Zara is Tara Sartoria, which sells a small range of hand-made silk products made by disadvantaged women in Indonesia and Vietnam. ^ (#cite_ref-106) "The Secret of Zara's Success: A Culture of Customer Co-creation" (https://martinroll.com/resources/articles/strategy/the-secret-of-zaras-success-a-culture-of-customer-co-creation/) . Martin Roll . 7 November 2021 . Retrieved 12 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-107) "Zara Owner Ramps Up Shipment to Asia as Shoppers Return" (https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-04-08/zara-owner-ramps-up-apparel-exports-to-asia-as-shoppers-return) . Bloomberg.com . Thomas Gualtieri. 8 April 2020 . Retrieved 8 April 2020 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Zara (clothing) (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Zara_(clothing)) . 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Item used to contribute to the wearer's outfit Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) -brand handbag In fashion (/wiki/Fashion) , an accessory is an item used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to an individual's outfit (/wiki/Clothing) . Accessories are often chosen to complete an outfit and complement the wearer's look. [1] (#cite_note-CummingCunnington2010-1) They have the capacity to further express an individual's identity and personality. Accessories come in different shapes, sizes, hues, etc. The term came into use in the 16th century [2] (#cite_note-2) Types [ edit ] Watches are one type of fashion accessory. Fashion accessories can be loosely categorized into two general areas: carried accessories and worn accessories. Carried accessories include purses (/wiki/Purse_accessories) and handbags (/wiki/Handbag) , hand fans (/wiki/Hand_fan) , parasols (/wiki/Parasol) and umbrellas (/wiki/Umbrella) , wallets (/wiki/Wallet) , canes (/wiki/Walking_stick) , and ceremonial swords (/wiki/Sword) . Worn accessories include cravats (/wiki/Ascot_tie) , ties (/wiki/Necktie) , hats (/wiki/Hat) , bonnets (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)) , belts (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) and suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) , gloves (/wiki/Glove) , muffs (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) , necklaces (/wiki/Necklace) , bracelets (/wiki/Bracelet) , watches (/wiki/Watch) , [a] (#cite_note-4) eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) , sashes (/wiki/Sash) , shawls (/wiki/Shawl) , scarves (/wiki/Scarf) , lanyards (/wiki/Lanyard) , socks (/wiki/Sock) , pins (/wiki/Pin) , piercings (/wiki/Body_piercing) , rings (/wiki/Ring_(jewellery)) , stockings (/wiki/Stocking) and hair ties (/wiki/Hair_tie) . [1] (#cite_note-CummingCunnington2010-1) Shoes (/wiki/Shoe) , boots (/wiki/Boot) , sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) , and all types or footwear (/wiki/Footwear) are not accessories but 'wear for the foot'. The type of accessory that an individual chooses to wear or carry to complement their outfit can be determined by several factors, including the specific context of where the individual is going. For example, if an individual is going to work their choice of accessory would differ from someone who is going out to drinks or dinner; thus depending on work or play different accessories would be chosen. Similarly, an individual's economical status, religious and cultural background would also be a contributing factor. [4] (#cite_note-5) History [ edit ] Advertisement for millinery (/wiki/Millinery) , embroideries, and fancy goods (/wiki/Fancy_goods) from the Macon City Directory, 1860 In Victorian fashion (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) accessories such as fans, parasols and gloves held significance for how women experienced gender, race, and class. In this era, there was a trend for women to adopt, or aspire to, a more leisurely lifestyle. Consequently, gloves were often used by women to cover their hands and mask any signs of labour. [5] (#cite_note-Beaujot-6) During the early 16th century, in Italy hat badges were worn by civilian men of higher social status as a decorative item, in imitation of the cap badges (/wiki/Cap_badges) worn by the invading military. Hat badges were often worn in conjunction with a decorative sword and hilt. Hat badges were fashioned after plaquettes (/wiki/Plaquette) and often depicted a scene with personal relevance to the wearer. [6] (#cite_note-Leino-7) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Status symbol (/wiki/Status_symbol) Fashion design copyright (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Many watch manufacturers have capitalized on the acceptance of the watch as a fashion accessory and have entered into licensing agreements with designers." [3] (#cite_note-Diamond_&_Diamond_2013-3) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Valerie Cumming; C. W. Cunnington; P. E. Cunnington (15 November 2010). The Dictionary of Fashion History . Berg. p. 1. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84788-533-3 . Retrieved 9 January 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "accessory" (https://en.wiktionary.org/w/index.php?title=accessory&oldid=76818896) , Wiktionary, the free dictionary , 2023-11-29 , retrieved 2024-02-03 ^ (#cite_ref-Diamond_&_Diamond_2013_3-0) Diamond, J.; Diamond, E. (2013). The World of Fashion . Bloomsbury Academic. p. 348. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-60901-527-5 . Retrieved 2021-04-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Clothing & Accessories" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180827075430/http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/subjects/clothing-accessories) . National Museum of American History . Archived from the original (http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/subjects/clothing-accessories) on 2018-08-27 . Retrieved 2018-08-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-Beaujot_6-0) Ariel Beaujot (June 2012). Victorian Fashion Accessories . Berg. p. 1. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781847886828 . ^ (#cite_ref-Leino_7-0) Marika Leino (7 December 2012). Fashion, Devotion and Contemplation : The Status and Functions of Italian Renaissance Plaquettes . Peter Lang AG. p. 1. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783039110681 . External links [ edit ] Media related to Clothing accessories (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Clothing_accessories) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck 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(/wiki/Young_fogey) Street fashion (/wiki/Street_fashion) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) Hippie (/wiki/Hippie#Art_and_fashion) Hipster (/wiki/Hipster_(contemporary_subculture)) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Gorpcore (/wiki/Gorpcore) Sportswear fashion (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) Surfwear (/wiki/Surfwear) Ghetto fabulous (/wiki/Ghetto_fabulous) Bling-bling (/wiki/Bling-bling) Vintage fashion (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Alternative (/wiki/Alternative_fashion) Androgyny (/wiki/Androgyny_in_fashion) Bohemian (/wiki/Bohemian_style) Emo (/wiki/Emo) Fetish (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) Gothic (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) Lolita (/wiki/Lolita_fashion) Queer (/wiki/Queer_fashion) Skinhead (/wiki/Skinhead) Steampunk (/wiki/Steampunk_fashion) Thrift store chic (/wiki/Thrift_store_chic) Rocker (/wiki/Rocker_(subculture)) Greaser (/wiki/Greaser_(subculture)) Glam (/wiki/Glam_rock) Grunge (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) Heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) Punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) Skate (/wiki/Skate_punk) Rockabilly (/wiki/Rockabilly) By country American fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_United_States) Canadian fashion (/wiki/Canadian_fashion) Chinese fashion (/wiki/Chinese_fashion) Filipino fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Philippines) French fashion (/wiki/French_fashion) German fashion (/wiki/German_fashion) Indian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) Iranian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_Iran) Israeli fashion (/wiki/Israeli_fashion) Italian fashion (/wiki/Italian_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_Italian_fashion) Japanese fashion (/wiki/Japanese_street_fashion) Nigerian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_Nigeria) Russian fashion (/wiki/Russian_fashion) South Korean fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_South_Korea) Swedish fashion (/wiki/Swedish_fashion) Thai fashion (/wiki/History_of_Thai_clothing) Vietnamese clothing (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Fashion activism (/wiki/Fashion_activism) Anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) Anti-sweatshop movement (/wiki/Anti-sweatshop_movement) Circular fashion (/wiki/Circular_fashion) Sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Slow fashion (/wiki/Slow_fashion) Trashion (/wiki/Trashion) Zero-waste fashion (/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion) See also Ballet and fashion (/wiki/Ballet_and_fashion) Capsule wardrobe (/wiki/Capsule_wardrobe) Chinoiserie in fashion (/wiki/Chinoiserie_in_fashion) Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Music and fashion (/wiki/Music_and_fashion) Fashion victim (/wiki/Fashion_victim) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Japan (https://id.ndl.go.jp/auth/ndlna/00571459) Czech Republic (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=ph128130&CON_LNG=ENG) 2 (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=ph123137&CON_LNG=ENG) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐fkqhw Cached time: 20240719050536 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: 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International fashion and lifestyle television channel Television channel FashionTV FashionTV logo Country France Broadcast area Worldwide Headquarters Paris (/wiki/Paris) London (/wiki/London) Vienna (/wiki/Vienna) Mumbai (/wiki/Mumbai) Programming Language(s) English Picture format 16:9 (/wiki/16:9) ( 576i (/wiki/576i) , SDTV (/wiki/SDTV) ) 1080i (/wiki/1080i) ( HDTV (/wiki/HDTV) ) 2160p (/wiki/2160p) ( 4K UHD (/wiki/4K_UHD) ) Ownership Owner Michel Adam Lisowski (/wiki/Michel_Adam_Lisowski) History Launched April 1997 Links Website www (http://www.FashionTV.com) .fashiontv (http://www.FashionTV.com) .com (http://www.FashionTV.com) FashionTV is an international fashion and lifestyle broadcasting television channel. Founded in France in 1997, by its Polish-born president Michel Adam Lisowski (/wiki/Michel_Adam_Lisowski) , FashionTV is a widely distributed satellite channels (/wiki/Satellite_television) in the world with 31 satellite and 2,000 cable systems. As of 2014, it had 400 million views all over the world. FashionTV is a multi-media platform offering a review of global fashion and is independently owned and operated from the headquarters in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , London (/wiki/London) and Vienna (/wiki/Vienna) . Other Regions [ edit ] South Africa [ edit ] Fashion TV signed an initial five-year contract with DStv (/wiki/DStv) to carry the channel in October 2000. [1] (#cite_note-1) In South Africa, FashionTV has been available on DStv, channel 178 and on the newly launched TopTV. In early 2016, DStv put up an "important notice" on channel 178, announcing that FashionTV would stop airing on February 28, 2016. Fashion TV Channels [ edit ] FTV EU FTV America FTV Affirm FTV Africa (/w/index.php?title=FTV_Africa&action=edit&redlink=1) FTV Australia FTV Japan FTV Russia FTV Brazil FTV Singapore FTV Korea FTV Central Asia FTV Canada Latin America [ edit ] Available in the period 1998 until 2011, Turner Broadcasting replaced the channel because of reaching the deadline of the contract. Australia [ edit ] In Australia, the channel was available on the Foxtel (/wiki/Foxtel) Digital Subscription Television and Austar (/wiki/Austar) channel 123, and the MidnightHot program was sometimes seen on channel 955. As of February 26, 2012, Foxtel and Austar no longer offer FashionTV, [2] (#cite_note-FashionTV_Closes_on_Austar_and_Foxtel-2) however, it will still be offered by IPTV service FetchTV. [3] (#cite_note-FashionTV_on_FetchTV-3) It was originally reported that dropping the channel was due to it being liquidated, but the original franchise (FTV Oceania Pty. Ltd) was liquidated in July 2011 and FashionTV International took back control of all the activities in Australia then, so the reason the channel was dropped from Foxtel and Austar is unknown. [4] (#cite_note-FashionTV_Australia-4) Asia [ edit ] In Asia, the channel is seen live via satellite, free-to-air on AsiaSat 3s (/wiki/AsiaSat_3) . It is seen all over Asia in Sri Lanka, Nepal, Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong, Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, and Mongolia. In Hong Kong, the channel is available on all direct broadcast satellite (/wiki/Direct_broadcast_satellite) service providers and all cable television (/wiki/Cable_television) operators. It is available in Bangladesh via the Bongo (/wiki/Bongo_BD) video-on-demand service since June 2022. [5] (#cite_note-5) Belgium [ edit ] In Belgium, the channel is available on Proximus TV, Telenet, and VOO via IPTV & cable and via Satellite DVB-S (/wiki/DVB-S) on the Astra 19.2° East Brazil [ edit ] Released on August 6, 2007, Fashion TV Brasil by Turner Broadcasting (/wiki/Turner_Broadcasting_System) , in 2011 the company terminated the contract with its owner, giving rise to Glitz (/wiki/Glitz_(TV_channel)) . The company Box Brazil TV relaunched the channel in September 201 which was made available in all major TV operators: Oi, Vivo, Claro, Sky, and NEOTV Associated Operators. [6] (#cite_note-6) Czech Republic & Slovakia [ edit ] In the Czech Republic and Slovakia, the channel is available on the UPC (/wiki/UPC_Broadband) , O2TV (/wiki/O2TV) , Orange (/wiki/Orange_(telecommunications)) , Magio T-Systems (/wiki/T-Systems) , RioMedia, Slovanet, etc. India [ edit ] In 2007, FTV was suspended from broadcasting in India for two months for showing scantily-clad models on its show Midnight Hot . The channel was suspended again in 2010 for 10 days for airing a show containing topless models associated with the Bella Club TV show. [7] (#cite_note-7) FTV is currently available on Airtel digital TV (/wiki/Airtel_digital_TV) and through some of the local Cable TV service providers. [ dubious – discuss (/wiki/Talk:FashionTV#Dubious) ] FTV India, owned by Modi Entertainment Networks (MEN) - a joint venture between Lalit Modi (/wiki/Lalit_Modi) and Walt Disney, had entered into an agreement with Programmgesellschaft mbH, the parent company of the fTV brand in August 2001 for broadcast rights in India and for franchising fBars, the channel's owned nightclubs. FTV India was to pay a minimum annual guarantee of $720,000 per annum and the channel would only be available on pay television (/wiki/Pay_television) to Indian viewers. However, in 2003, FTV India went free-to-air (/wiki/Free-to-air) , triggering the dispute over revenue sharing and outstanding payments. On 24 May 2011, the Delhi high court (/wiki/Delhi_high_court) restrained fTV from terminating the agreement. This injunction was later removed by an arbitral tribunal. On 4 January 2012, the case was heard by the Supreme Court of India (/wiki/Indian_Supreme_Court) . [8] (#cite_note-8) Italy [ edit ] In Italy, FashionTV (https://www.fashiontvitaliaofficial.it/) UHD is available on channel 289 tivùsat, 489 SKY HD and free-to-air channel on satellite Hot Bird (/wiki/Hot_Bird) at 13°E. Israel [ edit ] In Israel, FTV (ערוץ האופנה) is available on HOT (/wiki/Hot_(Israel)) channel 184, on yes (/wiki/Yes_(Israel)) channel 67, on Partner TV (/wiki/Partner_(Israel)) channel 88, and on Cellcom TV (/wiki/Cellcom_(Israel)) . Middle East & North Africa [ edit ] FashionTV Europe HD is broadcasting Pay TV, On OSN Network (/wiki/OSN) Channel 225. New Zealand [ edit ] In New Zealand, FashionTV was available on Freeview (New Zealand) (/wiki/Freeview_(New_Zealand)) DTT channel 30. The channel was previously on Sky Network Television (/wiki/Sky_Network_Television) channel 066. In November 2004, FashionTV was dropped from Sky Network Television due to a dispute over FashionTV wanting subscriber revenue. [9] (#cite_note-FashionTV_Dropped_in_New_Zealand_2004-9) This dispute was settled in early 2005, with the channel relaunching on April 18. [10] (#cite_note-FashionTV_Relaunched_in_New_Zealand_2005-10) On May 11, 2011, FashionTV was once again dropped from Sky. [11] (#cite_note-FashionTV_in_New_Zealand_2011-11) North America [ edit ] It is now available on wireless television providers MobiTV (/wiki/MobiTV) and Sprint TV; However, FashionTV is not available on any cable or satellite television service in North America as of August 2011. It has also been removed from FTA (Free To Air) as of September 2011. FashionTV can be watched live in North America only on their website. [ citation needed ] Portugal [ edit ] In Portugal, FashionTV is available on AR Telecom, Bragatel (channel 45), Meo (/wiki/Meo_(IPTV)) (channel 101), TVTel (/wiki/TVTEL) (channel 54), and ZON TVCabo (/wiki/TV_Cabo) (channel 73). Philippines [ edit ] In the Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) , the channel has been available on SkyCable (/wiki/SkyCable) on Channel 108, Cablelink (/wiki/Cablelink) Channel 66 since January 28, 2008, and selected cable affiliate channels. Some selected cities and provinces used two feeds, FashionTV Asia over AsiaSat 3 and FashionTV India & SE Asia over Thaicom 5 feeds including FashionTV HD. [ citation needed ] Russia [ edit ] In Russia (/wiki/Russia) , the channel began broadcasting in 2001. Serbia / Southeastern Europe [ edit ] Serbian (/wiki/Serbs) version of FashionTV called FashionTV SEE (FashionTV South East Europe) was launched on 24 November 2008. It is also broadcast in Slovenia (/wiki/Slovenia) , Croatia (/wiki/Croatia) , Bulgaria (/wiki/Bulgaria) , Bosnia and Herzegovina (/wiki/Bosnia_and_Herzegovina) , Montenegro (/wiki/Montenegro) and North Macedonia (/wiki/North_Macedonia) via their local cable TV providers and DTH (/wiki/Direct_To_Home) platforms. 30% of production is made by local production. Thailand [ edit ] FashionTV Thailand (/wiki/Thailand) was recently broadcasting free-to-air from THAICOM 5 at 78.5°east from the same satellite where FashionTV India was being broadcast. The channel was immediately off the air however, Thailand viewers can still watch in the presence of both FashionTV Asia and India Feed. [ citation needed ] Turkey [ edit ] FashionTV is available on Digiturk (/wiki/Digiturk) Channel 110 (HD Channel 394). Other FashionTV channels [ edit ] FashionTV UHD [ edit ] Television channel FashionTV UHD Country France Programming Language(s) English Picture format 1080i (/wiki/1080i) ( HDTV (/wiki/HDTV) ) 2160p (/wiki/2160p) ( UHDTV (/wiki/UHDTV) ) History Launched September 2015 Links Website Fashion TV 4K (http://fashion4k.com/about) In September 2015, FashionTV launched a new UHD 4K channel. It can be received in Asia, Australia, India, Europe Hot Bird (/wiki/Hot_Bird) at 13°E, North America, the Middle East, and Africa. [12] (#cite_note-12) Defunct channels [ edit ] Latin America [ edit ] Main article: Glitz* (TV channel) (/wiki/Glitz*_(TV_channel)) FashionTV started their Latin American version, FashionTV Latin America, FashionTV Brasil, in late 2001, in association with Claxson, and in late 2006 it was acquired by Time Warner (/wiki/Time_Warner) -owned Turner Broadcasting (/wiki/Turner_Broadcasting_System) . The Latin American version was their oldest overseas channel airing a significant amount of original programming, as well as acquired programming such as The Fashion Show (/wiki/The_Fashion_Show_(U.S._TV_series)) , Running in Heels (/wiki/Running_in_Heels) and Iconoclasts (/wiki/Iconoclasts_(TV_series)) . After the license agreement to use the "FashionTV" brand ended, the channel was replaced on May 1, 2011 Glitz* (/wiki/Glitz*) , which retained most of the FTVLA/FTVBR programming. The company BoxBrazil TV relaunched Fashion TV in Brazil in September 2012. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Fashion TV on DStv", Africa Film & TV Magazine , nº. 28, February-April 2001 ^ (#cite_ref-FashionTV_Closes_on_Austar_and_Foxtel_2-0) "AUSTAR News, About AUSTAR - AUSTAR Television" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120211182730/http://www.austar.com.au/tv/about-austar/austar-news.aspx) . Archived from the original (http://www.austar.com.au/tv/about-austar/austar-news.aspx) on February 11, 2012 . Retrieved February 3, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-FashionTV_on_FetchTV_3-0) "#Fashion-TV-Channel" (http://fetchtv.com.au/TV#Fashion-TV-Channel) . Retrieved February 21, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-FashionTV_Australia_4-0) "From a million viewers to liquidation Local Business" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120815014345/http://www.goldcoast.com.au/article/2012/01/29/386065_gold-coast-business.html) . Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia. Archived from the original (http://www.goldcoast.com.au/article/2012/01/29/386065_gold-coast-business.html) on August 15, 2012 . Retrieved February 21, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "FashionTV hits Dhaka's Catwalk and Beyond" (https://unb.com.bd/category/entertainment/fashiontv-hits-dhakas-catwalk-and-beyond/95996) . UNB . June 30, 2022 . Retrieved July 1, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Box Brazil TV relaunched Fashion TV" (https://web.archive.org/web/20210512210912/https://boxbrazil.tv.br/en/fashiontv.php) . Archived from the original (https://boxbrazil.tv.br/en/fashiontv.php) on May 12, 2021 . Retrieved January 2, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "India suspends Comedy Central for six days" (https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-30221819) . bbc.com . BBC. November 27, 2014 . Retrieved March 14, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "FTV dispute reaches Supreme Court - Livemint" (http://www.livemint.com/Politics/fYRyJZaBhQNRNVItHdxv5H/FTV-dispute-reaches-Supreme-Court.html) . www.livemint.com . January 4, 2012 . Retrieved August 8, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-FashionTV_Dropped_in_New_Zealand_2004_9-0) "FashionTV hopeful of Sky return - Tech News - Digital Spy" (http://www.digitalspy.com.au/tech/news/a17514/fashion-tv-hopeful-of-sky-return.html) . Retrieved February 2, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-FashionTV_Relaunched_in_New_Zealand_2005_10-0) "FashionTV rejoins Sky EPG - Tech News - Digital Spy" (http://www.digitalspy.com.au/tech/news/a20716/fashion-tv-rejoins-sky-epg.html) . Retrieved February 2, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-FashionTV_in_New_Zealand_2011_11-0) "Sky drops FashionTV (again!)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120205035051/http://www.throng.co.nz/fashion-tv/sky-drops-fashion-tv-again) . Throng. Archived from the original (http://www.throng.co.nz/fashion-tv/sky-drops-fashion-tv-again) on February 5, 2012 . Retrieved February 2, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Satellites" (http://fashion4k.com/satellites) . Fashion 4K . Retrieved January 2, 2021 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.FashionTV.com) FTV Italia (https://www.fashiontvitaliaofficial.it/) Links to related articles v t e Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) articles Index of fashion articles (/wiki/Index_of_fashion_articles) General Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) Fashion design copyright (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright) Fashion matrix (/wiki/Fashion_matrix) Fashion museum (/wiki/Fashion_museum) Fashion plate (/wiki/Fashion_plate) Fashion tourism (/wiki/Fashion_tourism) Semiotics of fashion (/wiki/Semiotics_of_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of Western fashion (/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Timeline of clothing and textiles technology (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) 19th century (/wiki/19th_century_in_fashion) 21st century (/wiki/21st_century_in_fashion) Events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) Fashion week (/wiki/Fashion_week) Industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Awards (/wiki/Category:Fashion_awards) Clothing industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Designer clothing (/wiki/Designer_clothing) Digital fashion (/wiki/Digital_fashion) Fashion blog (/wiki/Fashion_blog) Fashion capital (/wiki/Fashion_capital) Fashion entrepreneur (/wiki/Fashion_entrepreneur) Fashion editor (/wiki/Fashion_editor) Fashion forecasting (/wiki/Fashion_forecasting) Fashion illustration (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) Fashion influencer (/wiki/Fashion_influencer) Fashion journalism (/wiki/Fashion_journalism) Fashion law (/wiki/Fashion_law) Fashion photography (/wiki/Fashion_photography) Fashion merchandising (/wiki/Fashion_merchandising) Fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) in China (/wiki/Fast_fashion_in_China) Red carpet fashion (/wiki/Red_carpet_fashion) Social media in the fashion industry (/wiki/Social_media_in_the_fashion_industry) Sweatshop (/wiki/Sweatshop) Trickle-up fashion (/wiki/Trickle-up_fashion) Traditional clothing Ceremonial (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) Court (/wiki/Court_dress) Diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) Full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) Combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) Christian (/wiki/Christian_clothing) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Islamic (/wiki/Islamic_fashion) Modest fashion (/wiki/Modest_fashion) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) British country clothing (/wiki/British_country_clothing) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Chic (/wiki/Chic) Cruise collection (/wiki/Cruise_collection) Preppy (/wiki/Preppy) Ivy League (/wiki/Ivy_League_(clothes)) Mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) Sloane Ranger (/wiki/Sloane_Ranger) Teddy Boys (/wiki/Teddy_Boys) Young fogey (/wiki/Young_fogey) Street fashion (/wiki/Street_fashion) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) Hippie (/wiki/Hippie#Art_and_fashion) Hipster (/wiki/Hipster_(contemporary_subculture)) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Gorpcore (/wiki/Gorpcore) Sportswear fashion (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) Surfwear (/wiki/Surfwear) Ghetto fabulous 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(/wiki/Fashion_in_India) Iranian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_Iran) Israeli fashion (/wiki/Israeli_fashion) Italian fashion (/wiki/Italian_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_Italian_fashion) Japanese fashion (/wiki/Japanese_street_fashion) Nigerian fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_Nigeria) Russian fashion (/wiki/Russian_fashion) South Korean fashion (/wiki/Fashion_in_South_Korea) Swedish fashion (/wiki/Swedish_fashion) Thai fashion (/wiki/History_of_Thai_clothing) Vietnamese clothing (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Fashion activism (/wiki/Fashion_activism) Anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) Anti-sweatshop movement (/wiki/Anti-sweatshop_movement) Circular fashion (/wiki/Circular_fashion) Sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Slow fashion (/wiki/Slow_fashion) Trashion (/wiki/Trashion) Zero-waste fashion (/wiki/Zero-waste_fashion) See also Ballet and fashion (/wiki/Ballet_and_fashion) Capsule wardrobe (/wiki/Capsule_wardrobe) Chinoiserie in fashion (/wiki/Chinoiserie_in_fashion) Dress code 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(/wiki/Real_Life_(TV_channel)) Universal TV (/wiki/Universal_TV_(Australian_TV_channel)) Lifestyle FashionTV Food Network (/wiki/Food_Network) HGTV (/wiki/HGTV) Lifestyle (/wiki/Lifestyle_(Australian_TV_channel)) Lifestyle Food (/wiki/Lifestyle_Food) Lifestyle Home (/wiki/Lifestyle_Home) TLC (/wiki/TLC_(Australian_TV_channel)) Travel Channel (/wiki/Travel_Channel_International) Religious Australian Christian Channel (/wiki/Australian_Christian_Channel) Daystar (/wiki/Daystar_(TV_network)) Hillsong Channel (/wiki/Hillsong_Channel) SonLife (/wiki/SonLife) Home Shopping Expo Channel (/wiki/Expo_Channel) TVSN (/wiki/TVSN) Movies Foxtel Movies (/wiki/Foxtel_Movies) Sport BeIN Sports (/wiki/BeIN_Sports_(Australian_TV_channel)) ESPN (/wiki/ESPN_Australia) ESPN2 (/wiki/ESPN2_Australia) Fox Cricket (/wiki/Fox_Cricket) Fox Footy (/wiki/Fox_Footy) Fox League (/wiki/Fox_League) Fox Sports (/wiki/Fox_Sports_(Australia)) Fox Sports News (/wiki/Fox_Sports_News_(Australia)) Main Event (/wiki/Main_Event_(TV_channel)) NBL TV (/wiki/NBL_TV) Optus Sport (/wiki/Optus_Sport) Sky Racing (/wiki/Sky_Racing) News Al Jazeera English (/wiki/Al_Jazeera_English) BBC World News (/wiki/BBC_World_News) Bloomberg Television (/wiki/Bloomberg_Television) CGTN (/wiki/CGTN_English) CNA (/wiki/CNA_(TV_network)) CNBC Australia (/wiki/CNBC_Asia) CNN International (/wiki/CNN_International) Euronews (/wiki/Euronews) France 24 (/wiki/France_24) Fox News Channel (/wiki/Fox_News) HLN (/wiki/HLN_(TV_network)) MSNBC (/wiki/MSNBC) NDTV 24x7 (/wiki/NDTV_24x7) NHK World (/wiki/NHK_World-Japan) RT (/wiki/RT_(TV_network)) Sky News (/wiki/Sky_News_Australia) Sky News Extra (/wiki/Sky_News_Extra) Sky News UK (/wiki/Sky_News) Sky News Weather Channel (/wiki/Sky_News_Weather_Channel) TRT World (/wiki/TRT_World) Documentary Animal Planet (/wiki/Animal_Planet_(Australia_and_New_Zealand)) BBC Earth (/wiki/BBC_Earth_(TV_channel)) Crime + Investigation (/wiki/Crime_%2B_Investigation_(Australia)) Discovery (/wiki/Discovery_(Australia_and_New_Zealand)) Discovery Science (/wiki/Discovery_Science_(Asian_TV_channel)) Discovery Turbo (/wiki/Discovery_Turbo#Discovery_Turbo_Australia) History (/wiki/History_(Australian_TV_channel)) Investigation Discovery (/wiki/Investigation_Discovery) Kids and family BabyTV (/wiki/BabyTV) BBC Kids (/wiki/BBC_Kids_(Australian_TV_channel)) Boomerang (/wiki/Boomerang_(Australian_TV_channel)) Cartoon Network (/wiki/Cartoon_Network_(Australian_and_New_Zealand_TV_channel)) CBeebies (/wiki/CBeebies) Nick Jr. (/wiki/Nick_Jr._(Australian_and_New_Zealand_TV_channel)) Nickelodeon (/wiki/Nickelodeon_(Australia_and_New_Zealand)) ZooMoo (/wiki/ZooMoo) Music Club MTV Europe (/wiki/Club_MTV_(European_TV_channel)) CMT (/wiki/CMT_(Australian_TV_channel)) MTV 80s (/wiki/MTV_80s) MTV Hits Europe (/wiki/MTV_Hits_(European_TV_channel)) NickMusic (/wiki/NickMusic_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Stingray CMusic (/wiki/Stingray_CMusic) Specialty Al Jazeera (/wiki/Al_Jazeera_Arabic) ANT1 Pacific (/wiki/ANT1_Pacific) ART (/wiki/Arab_Radio_and_Television_Network) Aurora Community Channel (/wiki/Aurora_Community_Channel) The Filipino Channel (/wiki/The_Filipino_Channel) LDC (/wiki/Lebanese_Broadcasting_Corporation_International) Rai Italia (/wiki/Rai_Italia) Defunct Asia Business News (/wiki/Asia_Business_News) BBC HD (/wiki/BBC_HD_(international)) BBC Knowledge (/wiki/BBC_Knowledge_(international)) Binge (/wiki/Binge_(TV_channel)) Bio (/wiki/Bio_(Australian_TV_channel)) C7 Sport (/wiki/C7_Sport) Channel [V] (/wiki/Channel_V_Australia) Club MTV (/wiki/Club_MTV_(Australian_TV_channel)) Club Superstation (/wiki/Club_Superstation) CNNfn (/wiki/CNNfn) The Comedy Channel (/wiki/The_Comedy_Channel) CMC (/wiki/Country_Music_Channel) Discovery HD World (/wiki/Discovery_HD) Discovery Home & Health (/wiki/Discovery_Home_%26_Health) Discovery Kids (/wiki/Discovery_Kids_(Australian_TV_channel)) Disney Channel (/wiki/Disney_Channel_(Australian_TV_channel)) Disney Junior 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(/wiki/E!_(Australia_and_New_Zealand)) eGG Network (/wiki/EGG_Network) Eurosport 1 (/wiki/Eurosport_1) Eurosport News (/wiki/Eurosport_News) Fox Footy Channel (/wiki/Fox_Footy_Channel) Fox Funny (/wiki/Fox_Funny) Fox Kids (/w/index.php?title=Fox_Kids_(Australian_TV_channel)&action=edit&redlink=1) Fuel TV (/wiki/Fuel_TV_(international)) FX (/wiki/FX_(Australia)) Horizon Learning Channel (/wiki/Horizon_Learning_Channel) HOW TO Channel (/wiki/HOW_TO_Channel) KidsCo (/wiki/KidsCo) Lifestyle You (/wiki/Lifestyle_You) LocalVision (/wiki/LocalVision) MAD World (/wiki/MAD_World) Max (/wiki/Max_(Australian_TV_channel)) Movie Network Channels (/wiki/Movie_Network_Channels) MTV (/wiki/MTV_(Australia_and_New_Zealand)) MTV Classic (/wiki/MTV_Classic_(Australian_and_New_Zealand_TV_channel)) MTV Hits (/wiki/MTV_Hits_(Australian_and_New_Zealand_TV_channel)) MTV Live HD (/wiki/MTV_Live_HD) MTV Music (/wiki/MTV_Music_(Australian_and_New_Zealand_TV_channel)) National Geographic (/wiki/National_Geographic_(Australian_and_New_Zealand_TV_channel)) National Geographic Channel HD (/wiki/National_Geographic_Channel_HD_(Australian_TV_channel)) Nat Geo Wild (/wiki/Nat_Geo_Wild) Nat Geo People (/wiki/Nat_Geo_People) Neighbourhood Cable (/wiki/Neighbourhood_Cable) Odyssey Channel (/wiki/Odyssey_Channel) Oh! (/wiki/Oh!_(TV_channel)) SF Channel (/wiki/SF_(Australia)) Showtime Movie Channels (/wiki/Showtime_Movie_Channels) Sky News Business Channel (/wiki/Sky_News_Business_Channel) Sky News Election Channel (/wiki/Sky_News_Election_Channel) Foxtel Arts (/wiki/Foxtel_Arts) Smooth (/wiki/Foxtel_Smooth) SoHo (/wiki/SoHo_(Australian_TV_channel)) Speed (/wiki/Speed_(TV_network)) Spike (/wiki/Spike_(Australian_TV_channel)) Sportsplay (/wiki/Sportsplay) Studio (/wiki/Studio_(TV_channel)) Style Network (/wiki/Style_Network_(Australian_TV_channel)) Syfy (/wiki/Syfy_(Australian_TV_channel)) The Soundtrack Channel (/wiki/The_Soundtrack_Channel) 13th Street (/wiki/13th_Street_(Australian_TV_channel)) TechTV (/wiki/TechTV) TV1 (/wiki/TV1_(Australia)) TVH!TS (/wiki/TVHits) TVN (/wiki/TVN_(Australian_TV_channel)) Turner Classic Movies (/wiki/Turner_Classic_Movies_(Asia)) UBI World TV (/wiki/UBI_World_TV) [V] (/wiki/(V)) Weatherzone (/wiki/Weatherzone) Wine TV (/wiki/Wine_TV) World Movies (/wiki/World_Movies) Yesshop (/wiki/Yesshop) Your Money (/wiki/Your_Money_(TV_channel)) v t e Television in the Netherlands (/wiki/Television_in_the_Netherlands) NPO (/wiki/Nederlandse_Publieke_Omroep_(organization)) NPO 1 (/wiki/NPO_1) NPO 2 (/wiki/NPO_2) NPO 3 (/wiki/NPO_3) NPO Zapp (/wiki/NPO_Zapp) NPO Zappelin (/wiki/NPO_Zappelin) NPO 1 Extra (/wiki/NPO_1_Extra) NPO 2 Extra (/wiki/NPO_2_Extra) NPO Politiek en Nieuws (/wiki/NPO_Politiek_en_Nieuws) BVN (/wiki/BVN) RTL (/wiki/RTL_Nederland) RTL 4 (/wiki/RTL_4) RTL 5 (/wiki/RTL_5) RTL 7 (/wiki/RTL_7) RTL 8 (/wiki/RTL_8) RTL Z (/wiki/RTL_Z) RTL Crime (/wiki/RTL_Crime_(Dutch_TV_channel)) RTL Lounge (/wiki/RTL_Lounge) RTL Telekids (/wiki/RTL_Telekids) Talpa (/wiki/Talpa_Network) Net5 (/wiki/Net5) SBS6 (/wiki/SBS6) TV 538 (/wiki/TV_538) Veronica (/wiki/Veronica_TV) Viaplay TV (/wiki/Viaplay_TV) Paramount (/wiki/Paramount_Networks_EMEAA) Comedy Central (/wiki/Comedy_Central_(Dutch_TV_channel)) MTV (/wiki/MTV_(Dutch_TV_channel)) MTV 80s (/wiki/MTV_80s) MTV 90s (/wiki/MTV_90s) MTV 00s (/wiki/MTV_00s) MTV Hits (/wiki/MTV_Hits_(European_TV_channel)) MTV Live (/wiki/MTV_Live_(International_TV_channel)) Nickelodeon (/wiki/Nickelodeon_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Nick Jr. (/wiki/Nick_Jr._(Dutch_TV_channel)) NickMusic (/wiki/NickMusic_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Nicktoons (/wiki/Nicktoons_(Central_and_Eastern_European_TV_channel)) Paramount Network (/wiki/Paramount_Network_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Warner Bros. Discovery (/wiki/Warner_Bros._Discovery_EMEA) Animal Planet (/wiki/Animal_Planet_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Cartoon Network (/wiki/Cartoon_Network_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Cartoonito (/wiki/Cartoonito_(Central_and_Eastern_European_TV_channel)) CNN International (/wiki/CNN_International) Discovery Channel (/wiki/Discovery_Channel_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Discovery Science (/wiki/Discovery_Science_(European_TV_channel)) Eurosport 1 (/wiki/Eurosport_1) Eurosport 2 (/wiki/Eurosport_2) HGTV (/wiki/HGTV) Investigation Discovery (/wiki/Investigation_Discovery_(European_TV_channel)) TLC (/wiki/TLC_(Dutch_TV_channel)) The Walt Disney Company (/wiki/The_Walt_Disney_Company) (incl. A&E (/wiki/A%26E_Networks) and ESPN (/wiki/ESPN_Inc.) ) 24Kitchen (/wiki/24Kitchen) BabyTV (/wiki/BabyTV) Crime & Investigation (/wiki/Crime_%26_Investigation_(European_TV_channel)) Disney XD (/wiki/Disney_XD_(Dutch_TV_channel)) Disney Channel (/wiki/Disney_Channel_(Dutch_TV_channel)) ESPN (/wiki/ESPN_(Netherlands)) ESPN 2 (/wiki/ESPN_(Netherlands)) ESPN 3 (/wiki/ESPN_(Netherlands)) ESPN 4 (/wiki/ESPN_(Netherlands)) ESPN Ultra HD (/wiki/ESPN_(Netherlands)) History (/wiki/History_(European_TV_channel)) National Geographic (/wiki/National_Geographic_(Dutch_TV_channel)) National Geographic Wild (/wiki/National_Geographic_Wild_(European_TV_channel)) Star Channel (/wiki/Star_Channel_(Dutch_TV_channel)) AMC Networks (/wiki/AMC_Networks_International) Extreme Sports Channel (/wiki/Extreme_Sports_Channel) ShortsTV (/wiki/ShortsTV) VodafoneZiggo (/wiki/VodafoneZiggo) Ziggo Sport (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport) Ziggo Sport Totaal (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport_Totaal) Ziggo Sport (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport) Ziggo Sport 2 (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport_2) Ziggo Sport 3 (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport_3) Ziggo Sport 4 (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport_4) Ziggo Sport 5 (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport_5) Ziggo Sport 6 (/wiki/Ziggo_Sport_6) Ziggo TV NBCUniversal (/wiki/NBCUniversal_International_Networks) CNBC Europe (/wiki/CNBC_Europe) DreamWorks Channel (/wiki/DreamWorks_Channel) E! 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Italian luxury fashion house Bottega Veneta S.r.l Bottega Veneta store in Paris Company type Subsidiary Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded 1966 ; 58 years ago ( 1966 ) in Vicenza (/wiki/Vicenza) , Veneto Founder Michele Taddei Renzo Zengiaro Headquarters Via Privata Ercole Marelli, 6 20139 Milan (/wiki/Milan) Italy 45°26′35″N 9°12′04″E / 45.44299°N 9.20102°E / 45.44299; 9.20102 Area served Worldwide Key people Bartolomeo Rongone (CEO) Matthieu Blazy (creative director) Products Ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) , handbags, shoes, accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) , jewelry, fragrances (/wiki/Fragrances) . Revenue €1.6 billion (2023) Owner Kering (/wiki/Kering) Website bottegaveneta.com (https://www.bottegaveneta.com) Bottega Veneta ( pronounced [botˈteːɡa (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ˈvɛːneta] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ) is an Italian luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house based in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy. Its product lines include ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes, accessories, jewelry and fragrances. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Bottega Veneta is headquartered in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy, with its main atelier located in Montebello (/wiki/Montebello_Vicentino) , Vicenza. It is part of the luxury group Kering. In 2023, Bottega Veneta's revenue reached 1.6 billion euros. [3] (#cite_note-:7-3) History [ edit ] Foundation (1966–2001) [ edit ] Bottega Veneta was established in 1966 in Vicenza, Italy [4] (#cite_note-4) by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro. Specialized in artisanal leather goods, the brand developed a distinctive leather weaving technique, the Intrecciato , which became Bottega Veneta's signature look. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) In 1972, Bottega Veneta opened its first store in the USA, in New York City. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) In the mid-1970s, the company started to make shoes. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) Renzo Zengiaro left the company at the end of the 1970s. Soon after, Michele Taddei handed over the company to his ex-wife Laura Braggion, who headed the company with her second husband Vittorio Moltedo from then on. [7] (#cite_note-7) A 1978 two-page ad for Bottega Veneta - created by Andy Warhol (/wiki/Andy_Warhol) Studio and published in the magazine Interview (/wiki/Interview_(magazine)) - introduced the brand's tagline " When your own initials are enough ". [8] (#cite_note-8) In 1980, the actress Lauren Hutton (/wiki/Lauren_Hutton) carried a Bottega Veneta Intrecciato bag in the movie American Gigolo (/wiki/American_Gigolo) . [9] (#cite_note-9) In 1985, Andy Warhol (/wiki/Andy_Warhol) made the short film Bottega Veneta Industrial Videotape . [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-mattinopadova-11) During the 1990s, Bottega Veneta launched its first ready-to-wear collection. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) From 1995 to 2001 the head designer of Bottega Veneta was Edward Buchanan. He designed the first ready-to-wear collection and the first show was held in Milan in 1998. [12] (#cite_note-12) Modernization (2001–2018) [ edit ] In February 2001, Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) a subsidiary of Kering (/wiki/Kering) , acquired Bottega Veneta for $156 million. [13] (#cite_note-13) Patrizio di Marco was appointed CEO and Tomas Maier (/wiki/Tomas_Maier) creative director. [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2002, the brand launched a fashion jewelry line, followed by a fine jewelry line in 2006. [15] (#cite_note-15) By 2005, the company was profitable again. [16] (#cite_note-16) Bottega Veneta launched a women's ready-to-wear collection in February 2005 and a menswear collection in June 2006. [17] (#cite_note-vogue-paris-17) In January 2009, Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) succeeded to Patrizio di Marco as CEO of Bottega Veneta. [18] (#cite_note-18) In June 2011, Bottega Veneta launched its first women's fragrance Eau de Parfum . [19] (#cite_note-19) From 2001 to 2010, Bottega Veneta's sales grew 15-fold [20] (#cite_note-20) andreached the $1 billion mark in 2012. [21] (#cite_note-21) Vogue coined the term " stealth wealth (/wiki/Stealth_wealth) " to describe the brand's new style. [22] (#cite_note-Vogue-22) In 2013, Bottega Veneta moved its atelier from Vicenza to a historic 18th-century villa surrounded by a 590,000-square-foot park near Montebello Vicentino (/wiki/Montebello_Vicentino) . [23] (#cite_note-23) The renovation of the property underwent a strict environmental process. [24] (#cite_note-24) Bottega Veneta also opened its first flagship store, a 11,448 square-foot boutique in a historical building on Via Sant'Andrea (/wiki/Via_Sant%27Andrea) in Milan. [25] (#cite_note-Zargani-25) In April 2014, Marco Bizzarri stepped down as CEO of Bottega Veneta [26] (#cite_note-26) and Carlo Alberto Beretta became the company's new CEO in January 2015. [27] (#cite_note-27) In 2016, the brand's second flagship store opened on North Rodeo Drive (/wiki/Rodeo_Drive) in Beverly Hills. [28] (#cite_note-28) The company announced it would unify its men and women's shows. [29] (#cite_note-29) During the company's 50th anniversary show at the Accademia di Brera (/wiki/Accademia_di_Brera) , the Bottega Veneta clutch bag carried by Lauren Hutton (/wiki/Lauren_Hutton) in the 1980 movie American Gigolo (/wiki/American_Gigolo) was revived (and renamed The Lauren 1980 ). [30] (#cite_note-30) In October 2016, Claus-Dietrich Lahrs was appointed CEO of Bottega Veneta. [31] (#cite_note-31) In 2018, Bottega Veneta opened a 6-floor flagship store in Ginza, Tokyo (/wiki/Ginza,_Tokyo) , in a building designed as a tribute to the capital's architectural modernism (/wiki/Modern_architecture) . [32] (#cite_note-32) In January 2018, Bottega Veneta opened a 15,000-square-foot store—its third flagship store—on the corner of Madison (/wiki/Madison_Avenue) and 64th Street (/wiki/64th_Street_(Manhattan)) in New York City. [33] (#cite_note-:2-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) In June 2018, Tomas Maier stepped down as creative director of Bottega Veneta. [35] (#cite_note-35) Renewal (since 2018) [ edit ] Bottega Veneta window display. Kering appointed Daniel Lee (/wiki/Daniel_Lee_(designer)) as creative director of Bottega Veneta in June 2018 [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) and Bartolomeo Rongone as CEO in June 2019. [38] (#cite_note-:4-38) In November 2019, the company opened its first store in Miami. [39] (#cite_note-39) In 2019, Bottega Veneta won four awards during the British Fashion Awards (/wiki/British_Fashion_Awards) . [40] (#cite_note-40) On 2021, Bottega Veneta shut down its social media accounts [41] (#cite_note-41) and created the digital journal Issued by Bottega to communicate with clients, influencers, collaborators, and fans. [42] (#cite_note-42) Monthly fashion shows were replaced by private staged trunk shows called Salons [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-theguardian.com-45) with industrial setups and guest performers. [46] (#cite_note-46) In April 2021, the Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) police investigated Bottega Veneta's Salon afterparty following the show held at Berghain (/wiki/Berghain) pursuant to social distancing and masking laws during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) . [45] (#cite_note-theguardian.com-45) [47] (#cite_note-47) On 10 November 2021, Daniel Lee left his post as creative director. [48] (#cite_note-48) [49] (#cite_note-49) In late 2021, Kering appointed Matthieu Blazy (/wiki/Matthieu_Blazy) , former design director at Bottega Veneta, as the new creative director of the company. [50] (#cite_note-:5-50) Under Blazy, Bottega Veneta returned to the Milan Fashion Show. [51] (#cite_note-wwd.com-51) Blazy brought an inclusive management style, shrank the design team, and got the craftspeople involved in the creative process. [52] (#cite_note-:3-52) He introduced the trompe-l'œil (/wiki/Trompe-l%27%C5%93il) denim leather pants (2021), [53] (#cite_note-53) the intrecciato -woven handbags Kalimero (2022) [54] (#cite_note-54) and Andiamo (2023), [55] (#cite_note-55) and the knitted leather sock-slippers (2023). [56] (#cite_note-56) He was dubbed the "Magician of Milan" by Vanessa Friedman (/wiki/Vanessa_Friedman) . [52] (#cite_note-:3-52) In September 2023, the brand opened its flagship store in Paris on avenue Montaigne (/wiki/Avenue_Montaigne) , the first designed by Blazy. [57] (#cite_note-57) In February 2024, the brand opened its third store in Milan, in the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (/wiki/Galleria_Vittorio_Emanuele_II) . [58] (#cite_note-58) Later in June, Bottega opened a new store at the Rosewood Miramar Beach. [59] (#cite_note-59) Activities [ edit ] Bottega Veneta store in Munich (/wiki/Munich) Bottega Veneta manufactures fashion ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes, accessories, jewelry and fragrances. It operates the Manifattura Veneta Pelletterie (leather manufacturer) in Altavilla Vicentina (/wiki/Altavilla_Vicentina) (since 2011), in Malo (/wiki/Malo,_Veneto) (since 2012), [60] (#cite_note-60) and in Dueville (/wiki/Dueville) (since 2019) [61] (#cite_note-61) in the Veneto region. The company is part of the luxury group Kering. In 2023, Bottega Veneta's revenue reached 1.6 billion euros. [3] (#cite_note-:7-3) In October 2023, Bottega Veneta inaugurated the Accademia Labor et Ingenium which offers artisanal training programs taught by the brand's master artisans for external students, and new and existing employees. [62] (#cite_note-62) [63] (#cite_note-63) [64] (#cite_note-64) Arts and culture [ edit ] Since 2021, Bottega Veneta showcases traditional artisan workshops worldwide through the annual initiative 'Bottega for Bottegas'. [65] (#cite_note-65) In 2021, Bottega Veneta partnered with the Biennale College to sponsor the annual Venice Dance Biennale (/wiki/Venice_Biennale) . [66] (#cite_note-66) In 2022, the brand started to sponsor The Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories. [67] (#cite_note-67) The Italian house supported the relaunch of the gay magazine Butt (/wiki/Butt_(magazine)) in 2022, [68] (#cite_note-68) and the launch of the African culture magazine Air Afrique [69] (#cite_note-69) and the art journal Magma in 2023. [70] (#cite_note-70) Governance [ edit ] CEOs 2001–2008: Patrizio di Marco 2009–2014: Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) 2015–2016: Carlo Beretta 2016–2019: Claus-Dietrich Lahrs Since 2019: Bartolomeo Rongone Creative directors 1966–1970s: Renzo Zengiaro 1980s–2001: Laura Braggion 2001–2018: Tomas Maier (/wiki/Tomas_Maier) 2018–2021: Daniel Lee (/wiki/Daniel_Lee_(designer)) Since 2021: Matthieu Blazy (/wiki/Matthieu_Blazy) [71] (#cite_note-:6-71) Advertising [ edit ] For its advertisement campaigns, Bottega Veneta has been working with photographers including Philip-Lorca diCorcia (/wiki/Philip-Lorca_diCorcia) (2005), [72] (#cite_note-72) Lord Snowdon (/wiki/Lord_Snowdon) (2006), Annie Leibovitz (/wiki/Annie_Leibovitz) (2007), Tina Barney (/wiki/Tina_Barney) (2007), Larry Sultan (/wiki/Larry_Sultan) (2008), Sam Taylor-Wood (/wiki/Sam_Taylor-Wood) (2008), Nick Knight (/wiki/Nick_Knight_(photographer)) (2008), [73] (#cite_note-73) Stephen Shore (/wiki/Stephen_Shore) , Steven Meisel (/wiki/Steven_Meisel) (2009), [74] (#cite_note-74) Nan Goldin (/wiki/Nan_Goldin) (2010), [75] (#cite_note-75) Robert Longo (/wiki/Robert_Longo) (2010), [76] (#cite_note-76) Alex Prager (/wiki/Alex_Prager) (2011), [77] (#cite_note-77) Mona Kuhn (/wiki/Mona_Kuhn) (2011), [78] (#cite_note-78) Robert Polidori (/wiki/Robert_Polidori) (2011), Jack Pierson (/wiki/Jack_Pierson) (2011), [79] (#cite_note-79) Erwin Olaf (/wiki/Erwin_Olaf) (2012), [80] (#cite_note-80) Collier Schorr (/wiki/Collier_Schorr) (2012), [81] (#cite_note-81) Peter Lindbergh (/wiki/Peter_Lindbergh) (2012), [82] (#cite_note-82) Pieter Hugo (/wiki/Pieter_Hugo) (2014), [83] (#cite_note-83) Ryan McGinley (/wiki/Ryan_McGinley) (2014), [84] (#cite_note-84) Nobuyoshi Araki (/wiki/Nobuyoshi_Araki) (2014), [85] (#cite_note-85) Juergen Teller (/wiki/Juergen_Teller) (2015), [86] (#cite_note-86) Raymond Meier (/wiki/Raymond_Meier_(photographer)) (2015), [87] (#cite_note-87) Viviane Sassen (/wiki/Viviane_Sassen) (2016) [88] (#cite_note-88) , Todd Hido (/wiki/Todd_Hido) (2017), [89] (#cite_note-89) A$AP Rocky (/wiki/ASAP_Rocky) (2024), [90] (#cite_note-90) Jacob Elordi (/wiki/Jacob_Elordi) (2024). [91] (#cite_note-91) [92] (#cite_note-92) Bibliography [ edit ] Moltedo, Laura (1995). Bottega Veneta . New York. ASIN (/wiki/ASIN_(identifier)) B073WC95KJ (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WC95KJ) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) Maier, Tomas (2015). Bottega Veneta: When Your Own Initials Are Enough . Rizzoli. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780847837885 . Maier, Tomas (2015). Bottega Veneta : Art of Collaboration . Rizzoli. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8478-4603-0 . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Naughton, Julie (4 December 2009). "Coty, Bottega Veneta Ink Scent Deal" (https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/coty-bottega-veneta-ink-scent-deal-2385192/) . Women's Wear Daily . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240223003422/https://hypebeast.com/2023/2/bottega-veneta-winter-2023-collection-closer-look-footwear-bags-matthieu-blazy) from the original on 23 February 2024 . Retrieved 23 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) zeitoun, lea (27 September 2023). "industrial glass blocks engulf bottega veneta's avenue montaigne flagship store in paris" (https://www.designboom.com/design/industrial-glass-blocks-engulf-bottega-veneta-avenue-montaigne-flagship-store-paris-09-27-2023/) . designboom | architecture & design magazine . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240223005119/https://www.designboom.com/design/industrial-glass-blocks-engulf-bottega-veneta-avenue-montaigne-flagship-store-paris-09-27-2023/) from the original on 23 February 2024 . Retrieved 23 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Cox, Ollie (30 January 2024). "Bottega Veneta Is Opening A New Store In MIlan" (https://culted.com/bottega-veneta-matthieu-blazy-store-opening-milan/) . Culted . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240223010253/https://culted.com/bottega-veneta-matthieu-blazy-store-opening-milan/) from the original on 23 February 2024 . Retrieved 23 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) "Bottega Veneta opens new store at the Rosewood Miramar Beach" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Bottega-veneta-opens-new-store-at-the-rosewood-miramar-beach,1640913.html#ifm-bachelor-of-arts) . Fashion Network . Retrieved 18 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) Zargani, Luisa (22 February 2013). "Made in Italy: The Intangible Quality" (https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/made-in-italy-the-intangible-quality-6787259/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201218054638/https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/made-in-italy-the-intangible-quality-6787259/) from the original on 18 December 2020 . Retrieved 9 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-61) Carrera, Martino (25 June 2019). "Bottega Veneta Expands Leather Goods Industrial Plant" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/bottega-veneta-expands-leather-goods-industrial-plant-1203202969/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201109165542/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/bottega-veneta-expands-leather-goods-industrial-plant-1203202969/) from the original on 9 November 2020 . Retrieved 9 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-62) "Bottega Veneta ouvre une école en Italie pour former les artisans de demain" (https://fr.fashionnetwork.com/news/Bottega-veneta-ouvre-une-ecole-en-italie-pour-former-les-artisans-de-demain,1567654.html) . Fashion Network . Retrieved 2 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) "Bottega Veneta ouvre son école, Accademia Labor et Ingenium" (https://www.lofficiel.com/industry-trends/bottega-veneta-ouvre-son-ecole-accademia-labor-et-ingenium) . L'Officiel . Retrieved 2 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-64) "Bottega Veneta lance son académie de formation" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/bottega-veneta-lancement-academie-formation-atelier-venetie) . Journal du Luxe . 19 October 2023 . Retrieved 2 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) Adegeest, Don-Alvin (6 December 2023). "Bottega Veneta launches third edition of Bottega for Bottegas" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/culture/bottega-veneta-launches-third-edition-of-bottega-for-bottegas/2023120672983) . FashionUnited . Retrieved 13 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) "Bottega Veneta Partners With La Biennale Di Venezia" (https://sugarandcream.co/bottega-veneta-partners-with-la-biennale-di-venezia-bottegaveneta-biennaledanza-veniziawaynemcgregor-daniellee-biennalecollegedanza-biennalecollege-onlinemagazine-sugarandcream-interiormagazine/) . Sugar & Cream . 19 May 2021 . Retrieved 13 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) Muret, Dominique (10 October 2022). "The Hyères Festival returns from October 13 to 16" (https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/The-hyeres-festival-returns-from-october-13-to-16,1447311.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 13 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Zargani, Luisa (16 February 2022). "EXCLUSIVE: Bottega Veneta Supports Return of Butt Magazine" (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/bottega-veneta-supports-return-butt-magazine-1235078071/) . WWD . Retrieved 13 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Thanks to Bottega Veneta, 'Air Afrique' Is Taking Off Once Again" (https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/bottega-veneta-air-afrique/) . Highsnobiety . 23 June 2023 . Retrieved 13 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-70) Moss, Jack (7 July 2023). "Bottega Veneta supports new art publishing project, Magma" (https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/bottega-veneta-magma-art-journal) . wallpaper.com . Retrieved 8 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-:6_71-0) "Bottega Veneta va se (re)lancer dans la parfumerie" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/beaute/bottega-veneta-parfum-de-luxe-relance-kering) . Journal du Luxe . 21 February 2024 . Retrieved 4 March 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-72) Karin Nelson (30 September 2015), Art House (https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/bottega-veneta-photography-book) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126005240/https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/bottega-veneta-photography-book) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) W (/wiki/W_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-73) Amy Wicks (14 July 2008), Bottega Knight (https://wwd.com/feature/bottega-knight-1615941-1636610/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126005239/https://wwd.com/feature/bottega-knight-1615941-1636610/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-74) Alessandra Turra (8 November 2012), Bottega Veneta’s Artistic Vision (https://wwd.com/feature/artistic-vision-6475970-488398/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001914/https://wwd.com/feature/artistic-vision-6475970-488398/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-75) Stephanie Eckardt (15 October 2015), For Bottega Veneta, Campaigns Are an Art Form (https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126005239/https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)#The_Cut) . ^ (#cite_ref-76) Stephanie Eckardt (15 October 2015), For Bottega Veneta, Campaigns Are an Art Form (https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126005239/https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)#The_Cut) . ^ (#cite_ref-77) Stephanie Eckardt (15 October 2015), For Bottega Veneta, Campaigns Are an Art Form (https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126005239/https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)#The_Cut) . ^ (#cite_ref-78) Cynthia Martens (26 October 2011), Bottega Veneta’s Dreamy Cruise Campaign (https://wwd.com/feature/in-a-dream-5334734-778641/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001916/https://wwd.com/feature/in-a-dream-5334734-778641/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-79) Cynthia Martens (30 December 2011), Bottega Veneta Taps Jack Pierson for Campaign (https://wwd.com/feature/new-lens-5447549-755952/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001917/https://wwd.com/feature/new-lens-5447549-755952/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-80) Stephanie Eckardt (15 October 2015), For Bottega Veneta, Campaigns Are an Art Form (https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126005239/https://www.thecut.com/2015/10/bottega-veneta-campaigns-are-an-art-form.html) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)#The_Cut) . ^ (#cite_ref-81) Alessandra Turra (8 November 2012), Bottega Veneta’s Artistic Vision (https://wwd.com/feature/artistic-vision-6475970-488398/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001914/https://wwd.com/feature/artistic-vision-6475970-488398/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-82) Alessandra Turra (28 December 2012), Bottega Veneta Taps Peter Lindbergh for Campaign (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/studio-setting-6556645/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001912/https://wwd.com/business-news/media/studio-setting-6556645/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-83) Alessandra Turra (6 January 2014), Bottega Veneta Unveils Spring Campaign (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/a-natural-touch-7331515/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001911/https://wwd.com/business-news/media/a-natural-touch-7331515/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-84) Alessandra Turra (1 October 2014), Ryan McGinley Lenses for Bottega Veneta (https://wwd.com/feature/visions-of-pink-7962046-1013665/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001913/https://wwd.com/feature/visions-of-pink-7962046-1013665/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-85) Alessandra Turra (30 December 2014), Nobuyoshi Araki Lenses Bottega Veneta Campaign (https://wwd.com/feature/talking-tokyo-8086675-2092659/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001919/https://wwd.com/feature/talking-tokyo-8086675-2092659/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-86) Alessandra Turra (25 June 2015), Bottega Veneta Taps Juergen Teller for Fall Campaign (https://wwd.com/feature/bottega-veneta-juergen-teller-fall-campaign-10165843/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001911/https://wwd.com/feature/bottega-veneta-juergen-teller-fall-campaign-10165843/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-87) Alessandra Turra (26 October 2015), Bottega Veneta Taps Raymond Meier for Cruise 2016 Ads (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/bottega-veneta-raymond-meier-cruise-2016-ads-10268641/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001912/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/bottega-veneta-raymond-meier-cruise-2016-ads-10268641/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-88) Alessandra Turra (29 June 2016), Bottega Veneta Celebrates Alberto Burri With Fall Ads (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/bottega-veneta-alberto-burri-fall-ads-10474421/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001914/https://wwd.com/business-news/media/bottega-veneta-alberto-burri-fall-ads-10474421/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-89) Luisa Zargani (17 July 2017), Todd Hido Photographs Bottega Veneta Ads for Fall (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/todd-hido-photographs-bottega-veneta-ads-fall-10946986/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240126001915/https://wwd.com/business-news/media/todd-hido-photographs-bottega-veneta-ads-fall-10946986/) 26 January 2024 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-90) "Bottega Veneta confirme A$AP Rocky en tant qu'ambassadeur" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/bottega-veneta-asap-rocky-ambassadeur-campagne-pere) . Journal du Luxe . 18 June 2024 . Retrieved 18 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-91) "Bottega Veneta recrute Jacob Elordi" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/bottega-veneta-recrute-jacob-elordi-ambassadeur) . Journal du Luxe . 29 May 2024 . Retrieved 29 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-92) "Quel acteur devient le nouvel ambassadeur de Bottega Veneta ?" (https://www.numero.com/fr/mode/comment-jacob-elordi-democratise-t-il-les-sacs-a-main-pour-homme) . Numéro . Retrieved 29 May 2024 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Bottega Veneta (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Bottega_Veneta) . Official website (https://www.bottegaveneta.com) Issued by Bottega Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20211214090125/https://www.issuedbybottega.com/) 14 December 2021 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , the brand's online magazine Bottega Veneta (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/brands/bottega-veneta) – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) v t e Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) People Guccio Gucci (/wiki/Guccio_Gucci) (founder) Cristóbal Balenciaga (/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga) Aldo Gucci (/wiki/Aldo_Gucci) Maurizio Gucci (/wiki/Maurizio_Gucci) Paolo Gucci (/wiki/Paolo_Gucci) Rodolfo Gucci (/wiki/Rodolfo_Gucci) Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) Patricia Gucci (/wiki/Patricia_Gucci) Brands Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) Bottega Veneta Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Subsidiaries Doccia porcelain (/wiki/Doccia_porcelain) v t e Kering (/wiki/Kering) People Founder François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) Board of directors François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) (Chairman and CEO) Jean-François Palus (/w/index.php?title=Jean-Fran%C3%A7ois_Palus&action=edit&redlink=1) (Group managing director) Patricia Barbizet (/wiki/Patricia_Barbizet) (Vice-Chair of the Board of Directors) Brands Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Bottega Veneta Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(brand)) Qeelin (/wiki/Qeelin) Pomellato (/wiki/Pomellato) Dodo (/wiki/Pomellato#Dodo) Christopher Kane (/wiki/Christopher_Kane) Tomas Maier (/wiki/Tomas_Maier) Lindberg (/wiki/Lindberg_(eyewear)) Maui Jim (/wiki/Maui_Jim) Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) Culture Kering Foundation (/wiki/Kering_Foundation) Women in Motion (/w/index.php?title=Women_in_Motion&action=edit&redlink=1) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/267706452) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐jzghv Cached time: 20240720163757 Cache expiry: 976925 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.875 seconds Real time usage: 1.078 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 5332/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 182298/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 5196/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 6/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 300114/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.605/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 24172600/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 970.096 1 -total 35.90% 348.236 1 Template:Reflist 25.28% 245.197 60 Template:Cite_web 12.14% 117.792 1 Template:Infobox_company 11.91% 115.515 1 Template:IPA-it 11.76% 114.085 1 Template:IPA 11.09% 107.604 1 Template:Infobox 9.17% 89.006 3 Template:Cite_book 8.14% 78.982 3 Template:Navbox 7.97% 77.311 1 Template:Short_description Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1151005-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720163757 and revision id 1235417007. 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Handled bag used to carry personal items This article possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Handbag&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( September 2011 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Mi'kmaq porcupine quill handbag A handbag , commonly known as a purse in North American English (/wiki/North_American_English) , is a handled (/wiki/Handle_(grip)) medium-to-large bag (/wiki/Bag) used to carry personal items. It has also been called a pocketbook in parts of the U.S. Terminology [ edit ] The term "purse" originally referred to a small bag for holding coins. In many English-speaking countries, it is still used to refer to a small money bag. A "handbag" is a larger accessory that holds objects beyond currency, such as personal items. American English typically uses the terms purse and handbag interchangeably. The term handbag began appearing in the early 1900s. Initially, it was most often used to refer to men's hand-luggage. Women's bags grew larger and more complex during this period, and the term was attached to the accessory. [1] (#cite_note-1) "Pocketbook" is another term for a woman's handbag that was most commonly used in the United States in the mid-twentieth century. [2] (#cite_note-2) Origin [ edit ] Antiquity [ edit ] During the ancient period bags were utilised to carry various items including flint, tools, supplies, weapons and currency. Early examples of these bags have been uncovered in Egyptian burial sites (/wiki/Ancient_Egyptian_funerary_practices) ( c. 2686–2160 BCE) and were made of leather with two straps or handles for carrying or suspending from a stick. [3] (#cite_note-3) The ancient Greeks (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) made use of leather, papyrus and linen purses known as byrsa to store coins, which is the etymological origin of the English word "purse". The emergence of money further inspired the creation of drawstring purses, most commonly hung from a belt or kept in clothing folds. A handbag was discovered with the remains of Ötzi (/wiki/%C3%96tzi) , who lived between 3350 and 3105 BC. [4] (#cite_note-4) Whilst one of the earliest discoveries of an ornate leather purse came from Anglo-Saxon Britain (/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_settlement_of_Britain) , dated circa 625 CE, revealed from the burial site of King Roewald in the mounds of Sutton Hoo (/wiki/Sutton_Hoo) in Suffolk (/wiki/Suffolk) . [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Although the leather had deteriorated, its gold ornaments were still intact. Inside the purse was forty gold coins and it was held in place by a gold belt buckle and golden hinged straps. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) These features symbolised a display of opulence, making the purse part of a lavish suite of possessions. Medieval period [ edit ] The Courtauld bag (/wiki/Courtauld_bag) , thought to be the world's oldest surviving handbag The Courtauld bag (/wiki/Courtauld_bag) , tentatively believed to have been made at Mosul (/wiki/Mosul) in the early 1300s, is thought to be the oldest surviving handbag in the world today. It likely belonged to an Ilkhanate (/wiki/Ilkhanate) noblewoman. [7] (#cite_note-Brown_2014-7) Modern Origin [ edit ] Women's fashion from 1830, including a reticule handbag from France [8] (#cite_note-8) Until the late 1700s, both men and women carried bags. [9] (#cite_note-9) Early modern Europeans wore purses for one sole purpose: to carry coins. Purses were made of soft fabric or leather (/wiki/Leather) and were worn by men as often as ladies; the Scottish sporran (/wiki/Sporran) is a survival of this custom. In the 17th century, young girls were taught embroidery as a necessary skill for marriage; this also helped them make very beautiful handbags. [10] (#cite_note-10) By the late 18th century, fashions in Europe were moving towards a slender shape for these accessories, inspired by the silhouettes of Ancient Greece and Rome. Women wanted purses that would not be bulky or untidy in appearance, so reticules were designed. Reticules were made of fine fabrics like silk and velvet, carried with wrist straps. First becoming popular in France, they crossed over into Britain, where they became known as "indispensables". [11] (#cite_note-11) Men, however, did not adopt the trend. They used purses and pockets (/wiki/Pocket) , which became popular in men's trousers. [12] (#cite_note-burman83-12) The modern purse, clutch, pouch, or handbag came about in England during the Industrial Revolution (/wiki/Industrial_Revolution) , in part due to the increase in travel by railway. In 1841 the Doncaster (/wiki/Doncaster) industrialist and confectionery entrepreneur Samuel Parkinson (of butterscotch (/wiki/Butterscotch) fame) ordered a set of traveling cases and trunks and insisted on a traveling case or bag for his wife's particulars after noticing that her purse was too small and made from a material that would not withstand the journey. He stipulated that he wanted various handbags for his wife, varying in size for different occasions, and asked that they be made from the same leather that was being used for his cases and trunks to distinguish them from the then-familiar carpetbag (/wiki/Carpetbag) and other travelers' cloth bags used by members of the popular classes. H. J. Cave (/wiki/H.J._Cave_%26_Sons) (London) obliged and produced the first modern set of luxury handbags, as we would recognize them today, including a clutch and a tote (called a "ladies traveling case"). These are now on display in the Museum of Bags and Purses (/wiki/Museum_of_Bags_and_Purses) in Amsterdam. H. J. Cave did continue to sell and advertise the handbags, but many critics said that women did not need them and that bags of such size and heavy material would "break the backs of ladies". H. J. Cave ceased to promote the bags after 1865, concentrating on trunks instead, although they continued to make the odd handbag for royalty, celebrities or to celebrate special occasions, the Queen's 2012 Diamond Jubilee being the most recent. However, H.J. Cave resumed handbag production in 2010. [13] (#cite_note-13) 20th century [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Handbag&action=edit§ion=) . ( November 2011 ) When handbags started to become popularized, they were heavily criticized as it was seen as unfeminine. In the early 20th century, Sigmund Freud argued that purses were sexually suggestive as the structure of the purse symbolized female genitalia and sexuality. Before handbags, pockets were secured inside of a woman's dress which held personal items and retrieving items was done discreetly and modestly. Due to handbags being carried in the open, the accessory exposed a woman's personal items. Freud compared women retrieving items from their purse as a representation of masturbation. According to Freud's argument, women who carried purses openly displayed their sexuality due to the sexual symbolism of the purse. [14] (#cite_note-:0-14) As handbags grew into the mainstream in the 20th century, they began to transform from purely practical items to symbols of the wearer's wealth and worth in society. The styles, materials, prices, and, most importantly, the brand names of purses and handbags became just as (if not more) valuable than the functionality of the bags themselves. Handbags transitioned from being seen as unfeminine, to being seen as specifically feminine and unmasculine. While women's bags served as fashion accessories not meant to hold more than a few personal and beauty items (feminine things), men's bags stayed more in the realm of briefcases: square, hard-edged, plain; containing items pertaining to the "man's world": business-related items, documents, files, stationery and pens. The gendered division between the personal bag and the business bag meets in the middle with the unisex alms purse originating in the Middle Ages meant to carry coins to donate to the church or the poor. The charitable symbolism of the alms purse later carried over to women's handbags in general; a woman carrying a bag was seen as upper class and therefore potentially using the bag to hold her donations. [14] (#cite_note-:0-14) During the 1940s, the rationing of textiles for World War II led to the manufacturing of handbags made in materials like raffia (/wiki/Raffia) or crocheted from yarn. [15] (#cite_note-15) Some women crocheted their own small handbags from commercial patterns during this period. Men's bags [ edit ] A casual messenger bag "Man purse" redirects here. For the JPEGMafia song, see JPEGMafia discography (/wiki/JPEGMafia_discography) . The oldest known purse dates back more than 5000 years, and was a pouch worn by a man, Ötzi the Iceman (/wiki/%C3%96tzi_the_Iceman) . [16] (#cite_note-16) Men once carried coin purses (/wiki/Coin_purse) . In early modern Europe, when women's fashions moved in the direction of using small ornamental purses, which evolved into handbags, men's fashions were moving in another direction. Men's trousers replaced men's breeches (/wiki/Breeches) during the course of the 18th and 19th centuries, and pockets were incorporated in the loose, heavy material. This enabled men to continue carrying coins, and then paper currency, in small leather wallets. Men's pockets were plentiful in the 19th century and 20th century trousers and coats, to carry possessions, such as pipes, matches, and knives, and they were an item frequently mended by their wives. [12] (#cite_note-burman83-12) Men's purses were revived by designers in the 1970s in Europe. [17] (#cite_note-17) Since the 1990s, designers have marketed a more diverse range of accessory bags for men. The names man bag , man-purse and murse , mini bag have been used. The designs common in the U.S. are typically variations on backpacks or messenger bags (/wiki/Messenger_bag) , and have either a masculine or a more unisex appearance, although they are often more streamlined than a backpack (/wiki/Backpack) and less bulky than a briefcase. These bags are often called messenger bags (/wiki/Messenger_bag) or organizer bags. In many other countries, it is common for men to carry small rectangular shoulder bags, often made of leather. The leather satchel (/wiki/Satchel) is also common. Men's designer bags are produced by well-known companies such as Prada (/wiki/Prada) , Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , Coach (/wiki/Coach,_Inc.) , and Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) in a variety of shapes and sizes. The global men's bag and small leather goods trade is a $4-billion-a-year industry. [18] (#cite_note-18) Sales of men's accessories including "holdall" bags are increasing in North America. [19] (#cite_note-19) Types [ edit ] Varieties of handbags (proportional) Baguette (/wiki/Baguette_(bag)) : a small, narrow, rectangular shape purse, resembling a French loaf of bread (baguette) Bowling bag: a popular 1990s "retro" style for younger women, modeled after American bags used to carry bowling balls; sturdy design with arched top and sides and a zipper closure with two carrying handles, may or may not have feet, usually no strap, no drawstring, no top flap Barrel bag: a cylindrical shape akin to a barrel, larger than a baguette bag, with two short handles, has no flap, and usually does not have shoulder straps. Bucket bag: a cylindrical bag, shaped like a bucket, medium-size or large, with one or two large handles, often shoulder strap(s), and a drawstring closure Clutch: a small firm handbag with a top flap and without handles, often rectangular in shape (soft versions sometimes are shaped like sections of an orange), often an evening bag but used during the day as well; some will feature a strap that can be worn over the shoulder but many will not [20] (#cite_note-20) Crossbody bag: a bag worn across the body from shoulder to hip; this is as opposed to a smaller hand carried bag such as a clutch as well as opposed to a larger bag such as a tote or bowling bag; a baguette, for example, may be worn crossbody, as can a half-moon or a messenger bag, but a tote cannot be worn this way nor can a hobo (some bucket bags are worn crossbody) Doctor's bag: also known as a Gladstone bag (/wiki/Gladstone_bag) , modeled after a Victorian-era doctor's bag for making house calls, medium to large, has two sturdy handles but no straps and no top flap; resembles a bowling bag but may have a different closure, traditionally always in black leather Half-moon bag: shaped like a half-moon, usually smaller and feminine, worn hanging from the shoulder, may or may not have a handle [21] (#cite_note-21) Hobo bag (/wiki/Hobo_bag) : a soft-sided medium-sized crescent-shaped bag with a shoulder- or crossbody-length strap with no handle, no feet, and a top zipper closure with no top flap; a modern, casual silhouette Messenger bag (/wiki/Messenger_bag) : technically a variety of satchel (see below), square or rectangular (wider than tall) with one long strap worn across the body and large flap covering the top opening with no feet; inspired by bags worn by urban messengers to deliver business mail; meant to be carried against the lower back and usually made out of waterproof canvas rather than leather, with a secure front closure Minaudière (/wiki/Minaudi%C3%A8re) : a variety of clutch, usually rigid-bodied with a hinge at the bottom, sometimes with a soft fabric lining, with no handles, straps, or feet, often encrusted with jewels and worn as evening wear Reticule (/wiki/Reticule_(handbag)) : also known as a ridicule or indispensable , is an obscure type of small drawstring (/wiki/Drawstring) handbag or purse, similar to a modern evening bag, used mainly from 1795 to 1820 Saddlebag (/wiki/Saddlebag) : a small to medium size bag shaped like an equestrian saddle bag, always with a top flap and curved sides and bottom along with a shoulder strap but no top handle(s), no drawstring, and no feet Satchel (/wiki/Satchel) : a larger soft-sided case usually of leather, often with a pair of top handles and a shoulder strap, usually has a front flap, similar to a doctor's bag or tote in shape but smaller, worn across the body and resting on the opposite hip; a satchel made of canvas is usually considered a messenger bag Shoulder bag: a bag worn hanging off the shoulder, as opposed to a crossbody bag or a handheld bag; has a shorter strap than a crossbody, but otherwise is not usually distinguished; both shoulder bags and crossbody bags are larger than most clutches or wristlets, but smaller than totes or bucket bags; they may have a top flap, a handle, and feet, or none of these; a hobo bag is a variety of shoulder bag, but because of its distinct shape, it is usually referred to as a hobo specifically Top handle bag: a medium-sized bag with one or two top handles, may or may not have a flap, often rectangular with four feet, may also have a strap; many satchels are also top-handle bags, and some of these may be worn as crossbody bags or as shoulder bags if they also have a strap Tote (/wiki/Tote_bag) : a medium to large bag with two longer straps and an open top (no flap, no zipper closure), similar to a bucket bag but usually less cylindrical and more square, with no feet; the Hermes Birkin bag (/wiki/Birkin_bag) is a tote Wristlet: a small rectangular handbag with a short carrying strap resembling a bracelet that can be worn around the wrist. Similar to a clutch in design, but with the added wrist strap Hardware [ edit ] 1860 Woman's handbag with frame and kissing lock (LACMA) A distinction can also be made between soft-body handbags or frame handbags, where a metal frame supports the textile or leather of the bag. Frame bags often use a kissing lock (/wiki/Lock_and_key) closure, with two interlocking metal beads set on the top of the frame. Kissing locks were popular on handbags during the early- to mid-20th century, and remain popular with vintage collectors and in "retro" designs. These locks are still seen on smaller coin purses (/wiki/Coin_purse) . Coinage as a verb [ edit ] President George H. W. Bush, Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, and NATO Secretary General Manfred Woerner make statements to the press regarding Iraq's invasion of Kuwait; Thatcher holds her famous handbag The verb "to handbag" [22] (#cite_note-22) and its humorous usage was inspired in the 1980s by UK prime minister Margaret Thatcher (/wiki/Margaret_Thatcher) having "weaponized" the handbag in the opinion of British biographer and historian David Cannadine (/wiki/Sir_David_Cannadine) . [23] (#cite_note-CannadineProps-23) As "her most visible symbol of her power to command" the bag became an emphatic prop that she produced at meetings to show she meant business. She would invariably bring out of the bag a crucial document from which she would quote, her speech notes often being cut to size to fit inside. Because Thatcher was Britain's first female prime minister, former Daily Telegraph (/wiki/Daily_Telegraph) editor Charles Moore (/wiki/Charles_Moore_(journalist)) wrote in his authorised biography of 2013, "her handbag became the sceptre of her rule". [24] (#cite_note-24) The verb's more general meaning of "treating ruthlessly" came to symbolize Thatcher's whole style of government. Victims of her handbaggings, from political leaders to journalists, have testified [25] (#cite_note-25) to what the German chancellor Helmut Kohl (/wiki/Helmut_Kohl) perceived as her "ice-cold pursuit of her interests". US secretary of state James Baker (/wiki/James_Baker) recalled her standby ploy: "When negotiations stall, get out the handbag! The solution is always there." Julian Critchley (/wiki/Julian_Critchley) , one of her biggest Tory (/wiki/Tory) backbench critics, once said, "Margaret Thatcher and her handbag is the same as Winston Churchill (/wiki/Winston_Churchill) and his cigar." [26] (#cite_note-26) Thatcher's bag was almost as newsworthy an item as she was herself and on the day she died, one of her handbag-makers saw a sharp rise in sales of her favorite structured design. The original bag Thatcher asserts on a signed card was the one "used every day in my time at Downing Street" [23] (#cite_note-CannadineProps-23) is archived at Churchill College, Cambridge (/wiki/Churchill_College,_Cambridge) . Made of dark blue leather "in mock-croc style", it was a gift from friends on her birthday in 1984. Handbag collecting [ edit ] Handbag collecting has become increasingly popular in the 2000s. In 2014, the auction house Christie's (/wiki/Christie%27s) started a handbag department, which now has several staff, headed by an "international head of handbags". In June 2017, Christie's had its first sale devoted exclusively to handbags. [27] (#cite_note-theguardian1-27) According to The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) , the most sought-after and valuable brand is Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) , followed by others including Céline (/wiki/Celine_(brand)) , Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) and Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) . [28] (#cite_note-telegraph1-28) World records [ edit ] In June 2015, a Christie's handbag sale in Hong Kong saw a pink crocodile skin Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) Birkin bag (/wiki/Birkin_bag) made only in 2014, sell for a then world record £146,000. [28] (#cite_note-telegraph1-28) In May 2017, Christie's Hong Kong sold a white crocodile skin Hermès Birkin bag with 10.23 carats of diamonds for a world record HK$2.9 million (£293,000). [27] (#cite_note-theguardian1-27) Museums [ edit ] The Museum of Bags and Purses (/wiki/Museum_of_Bags_and_Purses) is in Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam) , the Netherlands; the Simone Handbag Museum (/wiki/Simone_Handbag_Museum) is in Seoul (/wiki/Seoul) , South Korea; and the ESSE Purse Museum (/wiki/ESSE_Purse_Museum) is in Little Rock, Arkansas (/wiki/Little_Rock,_Arkansas) . Notable collectors [ edit ] Queen Elizabeth II with a Launer London (/wiki/Launer_London) bag in 2015 Queen Elizabeth II (/wiki/Elizabeth_II) owned over 200 Launer London (/wiki/Launer_London) bags, and kept all of her mother's Launer bags. [29] (#cite_note-Town_&_Country-29) Other notable collectors include Victoria Beckham (/wiki/Victoria_Beckham) , who has over 100 Birkin bags (/wiki/Birkin_bag) , Katie Holmes (/wiki/Katie_Holmes) , Rita Ora (/wiki/Rita_Ora) and Kelly Brook (/wiki/Kelly_Brook) . [27] (#cite_note-theguardian1-27) Cara Delevingne (/wiki/Cara_Delevingne) , Miranda Kerr (/wiki/Miranda_Kerr) , Lauren Conrad (/wiki/Lauren_Conrad) , Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (/wiki/Rosie_Huntington-Whiteley) , Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , Mary-Kate Olsen (/wiki/Mary-Kate_Olsen) , Ashley Olsen (/wiki/Ashley_Olsen) , Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) , Olivia Palermo (/wiki/Olivia_Palermo) , and Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) are also collectors. [30] (#cite_note-whowhatwear-30) Others include Kim Chiu (/wiki/Kim_Chiu) , KC Concepcion (/wiki/KC_Concepcion) , Kris Aquino (/wiki/Kris_Aquino) , Heart Evangelista (/wiki/Heart_Evangelista) , Marian Rivera (/wiki/Marian_Rivera) , Bea Alonzo (/wiki/Bea_Alonzo) , Kathryn Bernardo (/wiki/Kathryn_Bernardo) , Lovi Poe (/wiki/Lovi_Poe) , Megan Young (/wiki/Megan_Young) , Gretchen Barretto (/wiki/Gretchen_Barretto) , Camille Prats (/wiki/Camille_Prats) , Sarah Lahbati (/wiki/Sarah_Lahbati) , and Jeffree Star (/wiki/Jeffree_Star) . [31] (#cite_note-31) Gallery of popular silhouettes [ edit ] Bucket bag with drawstring closure Clutch with fold-over closure, made of red snakeskin (/wiki/Snakeskin) Hobo bag with top zipper, shoulder strap, and characteristic slouch in the middle Collection of kiondo style handbags Messenger bag from old truck tarp with seat belt as strap, made by Freitag, Switzerland (2008) Vintage pocketbook Saddle shape, with equestrian (/wiki/Equestrianism) hardware detail Clutch made from eel skin Vintage evening minaudière, made of ivory satin encrusted with faux pearls and glass bugle beads White leather baguette bag Gallery of traditional types [ edit ] A bilum (/wiki/Bilum) bag, used in Papua New Guinea (/wiki/Papua_New_Guinea) . Bilums are made of "bush rope", cuscus (/wiki/Cuscus) fur or wool, and expand in size A shoulder bag made of baobab (/wiki/Baobab) tree fibres, Zimbabwe (/wiki/Zimbabwe) , 1995 Ojibwa (/wiki/Ojibwa) bag with decorative beadwork; this particular bag was probably made for a child Early 20th century Yoruba (/wiki/Yoruba_people) Diviner's bag, from the Oyo region, Nigeria (/wiki/Nigeria) A Burmese (/wiki/Burma) Kachin bag or wallet. A Figure from the booklet Burmese Textiles , published in 1917 by Laura E. Start (/wiki/Laura_Emily_Start) A Scandinavian Sámi (/wiki/Sami_people) purse (handbag) with shoulder strap A Betel (/wiki/Betel) bag from West Timor (/wiki/West_Timor) , made around 1921. Called an aluk , such bags are still made A modern handbag in a traditional Hakka Chinese (/wiki/Hakka_people) -style floral fabric design North African (/wiki/North_African) bag with lizard (/wiki/Lizard) head and paws 19th century bags and pouches of the Sioux (/wiki/Sioux) Bags exhibited in the Yunnan Nationalities Museum (/wiki/Yunnan_Nationalities_Museum) , Kunming, Yunnan, China An early 19th-century Mexican Handbag featuring a lamb and crown motif in traditional needlework and a silk dress lining. [32] (#cite_note-32) Gallery of contemporary types [ edit ] Ladies' Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) tote (2005) Tanner Krolle (/wiki/Tanner_Krolle) Eva hobo bag (2006) Longchamp (/wiki/Longchamp_(company)) tote bag Ted Noten (/wiki/Ted_Noten) top handle bag (2009) Chanel 2.55 (/wiki/Chanel_2.55) satchel A satchel from French designer Etienne Aigner (/wiki/Etienne_Aigner) Tote shaped like vintage Volkswagen bus (2007) Crocheted bucket-style handbag by Sak.com Large Handbag See also [ edit ] fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Wikimedia Commons has media related to Handbags (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Handbags) . Wikiquote has quotations related to Handbags (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Handbag) . Belen Echandia (/wiki/Belen_Echandia) Chuspas (/wiki/Chuspas_(bag)) ESSE Purse Museum (/wiki/ESSE_Purse_Museum) in Little Rock, Arkansas Fanny pack (/wiki/Fanny_pack) Hervé Chapelier (/wiki/Herv%C3%A9_Chapelier) Museum of Bags and Purses (/wiki/Museum_of_Bags_and_Purses) in Amsterdam, Netherlands Party plan (/wiki/Party_plan) Purse hook (/wiki/Purse_hook) Purse organizer (/wiki/Purse_organizer) Shell purse (/wiki/Shell_purse) Hunting bag (/wiki/Hunting_bag) Simone Handbag Museum (/wiki/Simone_Handbag_Museum) in Seoul, South Korea References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Browning, Marie (2006). Purse Pizzazz . Sterling Publishing (/wiki/Sterling_Publishing) . p. 8. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4027-4065-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Wilcox, C. (1997). A Century of Bags: Icons of Style in the 20th Century . Universal International. p. 11. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-876142-36-0 . Retrieved 19 March 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The History Of Bags" (https://lux-collector.com/blogs/blog/the-history-of-bags) . LuxCollector Vintage . 27 October 2019 . Retrieved 17 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "From when did humans start carrying handbags?" (https://htschool.hindustantimes.com/editorsdesk/knowledge-vine/from-when-did-humans-start-carrying-handbags) . HT School . Retrieved 17 July 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Practical Uses and Fashions of Handbags and Purses" (https://dsfantiquejewelry.com/blogs/time-blog/practical-uses-and-fashions-of-handbags-and-purses) . DSF Antique Jewelry . Retrieved 17 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Johnson, Anna. "Fashions of Handbags and Purses" (https://www.lovetoknow.com/life/style/fashions-handbags-purses) . LoveToKnow . Retrieved 17 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Brown_2014_7-0) Brown, Mark (19 February 2014). "A handbag? Courtauld Gallery opens up identity of 700-year-old treasure" (https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2014/feb/19/handbag-courtauld-gallery-identity-treasure-fashion) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved 8 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Los Angeles County Museum of Art" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111024071222/http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record) . Collectionsonline.lacma.org. Archived from the original (http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=159955;type=101) on 24 October 2011 . Retrieved 30 November 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Handbags and Purses | Encyclopedia.com" (https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/handbags-and-purses) . www.encyclopedia.com . Retrieved 17 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Timmons, Henrietta. "History of Handbags- From the 14th Century to Present Day Handbag Designers" (https://henriettashandbags.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=4) . Retrieved 28 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Hagerty, Barbara G. S. (2002). Handbags: a peek inside a woman's most trusted accessory . Running Press Book Publishers (/wiki/Running_Press_Book_Publishers) . pp. 14–5. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7624-1330-1 . ^ Jump up to: a b Burman, Barbara; Turbin, Carole, eds. (2003). Material Strategies: Dress and Gender in Historical Perspective . Wiley-Blackwell (/wiki/Wiley-Blackwell) . pp. 83–4. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4051-0906-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Stockley, Philippa (2 September 2012). "Yes, the contents mean a lot, but it's the bag that matters most" (https://www.independent.co.uk/voices/commentators/philippa-stockley-yes-the-contents-mean-a-lot-but-its-the-bag-that-matters-most-8100587.html) . The Independent . Retrieved 27 September 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hiner, Susan (10 June 2010). "Accessories to Modernity: Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France" (http://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt3fhhgk.10) . JSTOR . University of Pennsylvania Press (/wiki/University_of_Pennsylvania_Press) : 178–210. JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) j.ctt3fhhgk.10 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt3fhhgk.10) . Retrieved 11 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Pedersen, Stephanie (2006). Handbags : what every woman should know . Internet Archive. Cincinnati, OH: David & Charles. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7153-2495-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Gerval, Olivier (2009). Studies in Fashion: Fashion Accessories . A & C Black. p. 44. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4081-1058-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Sarti, Giorgio (2006). Vespa: 1946-2006: 60 Years of the Vespa . St. Paul, Minnesota: Motorbooks (/wiki/Motorbooks) . p. 117. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7603-2577-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Standard & Poor's (2011). Standard & Poor's 500 Guide . Coach Inc.: McGraw-Hill (/wiki/McGraw-Hill) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-07-175491-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Clifford, Stephanie (19 February 2012). "Men Step Out of the Recession, Bag on Hip, Bracelet on Wrist" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/20/business/men-are-buying-fashion-accessories-after-slow-recession-sales.html) . The New York Times . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Similar But Differents: Clutch vs Wristlet" (https://theluxonomist.es/2015/11/02/similar-but-differents-clutch-vs-wristlet/abel-hernandez) . The Luxonomist (in Spanish). 1 November 2015 . Retrieved 26 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Bobila, Maria. "18 Half-Moon Handbags for When You're Tired of Your Bucket Bag" (https://fashionista.com/2019/04/shop-half-moon-handbags) . Fashionista . Retrieved 26 January 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Handbag | Definition of Handbag by Lexico" (https://web.archive.org/web/20191005223112/https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/handbag) . Lexico Dictionaries | English . Archived from the original (https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/handbag) on 5 October 2019. ^ Jump up to: a b Cannadine, David. " (https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0bgg1d0) Prime Ministers' Props, Series 2, Margaret Thatcher's Handbag " (https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0bgg1d0) . BBC Radio 4, 2018-08-29 . Retrieved 29 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Charles Moore (2013). Margaret Thatcher: The Authorized Biography, Volume One: Not For Turning . Allen Lane: London. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7139-9288-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-7139-9288-5) . ^ (#cite_ref-25) " (https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-politics-11518330) I was handbagged by Mrs Thatcher " (https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-politics-11518330) . BBC News. Ollie Stone-Lee, 9 April 2013 . Retrieved 17 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Alexander, Hilary (12 April 2013). " (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/margaret-thatcher/8521433/Margaret-Thatcher-style-Aquascutum-and-the-original-power-dresser.html) Margaret Thatcher: style, Aquascutum and the original power dresser " (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/margaret-thatcher/8521433/Margaret-Thatcher-style-Aquascutum-and-the-original-power-dresser.html) . Daily Telegraph . Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/margaret-thatcher/8521433/Margaret-Thatcher-style-Aquascutum-and-the-original-power-dresser.html) from the original on 12 January 2022. ^ Jump up to: a b c Rupert Neate (1 January 1970). "What am I bid? Prices go through the roof at Christie's handbag auction | Fashion" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/jun/02/what-am-i-bid-prices-go-through-the-roof-at-christies-handbag-auction) . The Guardian . Retrieved 2 June 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b Ellie Pithers (5 June 2015). "How handbags became a worthy investment" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/handbags-auction-investment/) . Telegraph.co.uk . Retrieved 2 June 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-Town_&_Country_29-0) Foussianes, Chloe (9 January 2019). "Queen Elizabeth Has Carried the Same Three Launer Bags for Years, Because Like Her They Improve with Age" (https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a25833775/queen-elizabeth-favorite-handbag-launer-traviata-royale/) . Town & Country magazine . Retrieved 22 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-whowhatwear_30-0) "Which Celebrity Has the Best Designer Handbags?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20171021235054/http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/best-celebrity-designer-handbags) . WhoWhatWear UK . Archived from the original (http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/best-celebrity-designer-handbags) on 21 October 2017 . Retrieved 1 August 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "IN PHOTOS: 13 celebrities and their designer handbag collection | Showbiz News | GMA Entertainment - Online Home of Kapuso Shows and Stars - Photo" (http://www.gmanetwork.com/entertainment/gma/photos/2015-07-25/3782/40748/Bea-Alonzo) . Gmanetwork.com. 1 July 2016 . Retrieved 2 June 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Purse | Mexican | The Met" (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156689?&searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&ft=purse&offset=40&rpp=20&pos=52) . The Metropolitan Museum of Art . Further reading [ edit ] Pedersen, Stephanie (2006). Handbags: What Every Woman Should Know . Cincinnati: David & Charles (/wiki/David_%26_Charles) . 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Italian shoe designer company For this company’s founder, see Sergio Rossi (shoe designer) (/wiki/Sergio_Rossi_(shoe_designer)) . This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Sergio_Rossi) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Sergio_Rossi) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article may have been created or edited in return for undisclosed payments , a violation of Wikipedia's terms of use (https://foundation.wikimedia.org/wiki/Terms_of_Use/en#paid-contrib-disclosure) . It may require cleanup to comply with Wikipedia's content policies (/wiki/Wikipedia:List_of_policies#Content) , particularly neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( September 2018 ) This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sergio_Rossi&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( June 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Sergio Rossi Sergio Rossi Pop-up store, Milan Industry Luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_good) Founded 1951 ; 73 years ago ( 1951 ) San Mauro Pascoli (/wiki/San_Mauro_Pascoli) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Founder Sergio Rossi (/wiki/Sergio_Rossi_(shoe_designer)) Headquarters San Mauro Pascoli (/wiki/San_Mauro_Pascoli) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Area served Worldwide Key people Paul Kotrba, CEO Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Lanvin Group Website www (http://www.sergiorossi.com) .sergiorossi (http://www.sergiorossi.com) .com (http://www.sergiorossi.com) An example of Sergio Rossi shoe Sergio Rossi is an Italian (/wiki/Italians) fashion brand that focuses on footwear. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) History [ edit ] Sergio Rossi factory, San Mauro Pascoli Founded in 1951 in San Mauro Pascoli (/wiki/San_Mauro_Pascoli) , the brand takes its name from founder Sergio Rossi (/wiki/Sergio_Rossi_(shoe_designer)) , who inherited the tools and traditions of shoemaking from his father. Rossi was initially making sandals that he would sell on the beaches of Rimini (/wiki/Rimini) and in boutiques in Bologna (/wiki/Bologna) . In 1968, the first official collection of Sergio Rossi brand shoes were produced. According to Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) , during the 1960s the company "rapidly became synonymous with Italian quality and classic feminine designs." [3] (#cite_note-3) Business Development [ edit ] Sergio Rossi shoes are recognizable for their particular use of geometric patterns and color. The brand gained popularity in the 1970s due to collaborations with well-known designers, including Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) , Versace (/wiki/Versace) , and Azzedine Alaïa (/wiki/Azzedine_Ala%C3%AFa) . In 1980, the expansion process started with the opening of the first single-brand boutiques in Ancona (/wiki/Ancona) and then later in Turin (/wiki/Turin) , Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Rome (/wiki/Rome) , Brussels (/wiki/Brussels) , New York (/wiki/New_York_City) , Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) , and London (/wiki/London) . In 1999, the PPR Luxury Division, known as Gucci Group, acquired 70% of shares of Sergio Rossi for a value of approximately 96 million dollars. Six years later, the Kering (/wiki/Kering) group bought the remaining 30%, obtaining full control of the Sergio Rossi brand. In 2015, the company was sold to Investindustrial (/wiki/Investindustrial) holdings. In June 2021, Fosun Fashion Group (FFG) (/wiki/Fosun_International) announced that it had signed an agreement to acquire 100% of Sergio Rossi S.p.A. San Mauro Production Plant [ edit ] The San Mauro production plant was built in 2003. It measures a total of 55,600 square meters (598,000 sq ft), with 12,000 square meters (130,000 sq ft) accounting for production and warehouse space and 4,000-square-meter (43,000 sq ft) of space for offices, pattern, and prototype departments. San Mauro's industrial platform develops, industrializes and produces all types of women and men's luxury footwear, from flat styles to high heels. The San Mauro plant produces shoes for Sergio Rossi, Amina Muaddi (/wiki/Amina_Muaddi) , and other brands. Sustainability [ edit ] Sergio Rossi sets sustainability goals that are established in accordance with the United Nations Global Compact (/wiki/United_Nations_Global_Compact) (UNGC) Initiative. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2020, 100% of all electricity used for the brand's factory, offices, and shops was produced from renewable sources. Testimonials [ edit ] Sergio Rossi shoes have always been very popular on the red carpet and many celebrities have worn them, including Eva Longoria (/wiki/Eva_Longoria) , Sharon Stone (/wiki/Sharon_Stone) , Diane Kruger (/wiki/Diane_Kruger) , Ludivine Sagnier (/wiki/Ludivine_Sagnier) , Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) , Karolína Kurková (/wiki/Karol%C3%ADna_Kurkov%C3%A1) , Amanda Seyfried (/wiki/Amanda_Seyfried) , Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (/wiki/Rosie_Huntington-Whiteley) , Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) , Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) , Vanessa Hudgens (/wiki/Vanessa_Hudgens) , Halle Barry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) , Eva Herzigová (/wiki/Eva_Herzigov%C3%A1) , Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) , Naomi Watts (/wiki/Naomi_Watts) , Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) , Lupita Nyong'o (/wiki/Lupita_Nyong%27o) , Emmy Rossum (/wiki/Emmy_Rossum) , Priyanka Chopra (/wiki/Priyanka_Chopra) , Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) , Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , Nazha, Lizzo (/wiki/Lizzo) , Rita Ora (/wiki/Rita_Ora) and Janice Man (/wiki/Janice_Man) . Sergio Rossi's shoes have been featured in the following works: Anita Ekberg (/wiki/Anita_Ekberg) wears a pair in Federico Fellini (/wiki/Federico_Fellini) 's La Dolce Vita (/wiki/La_Dolce_Vita) , 1959 Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) wears a pair of gladiator boots in her 2011 music video " Run the World (Girls) (/wiki/Run_the_World_(Girls)) " Silvana Mangano (/wiki/Silvana_Mangano) wears a pair in the film Gruppo di famiglia in un interno (/wiki/Gruppo_di_famiglia_in_un_interno) by Luchino Visconti (/wiki/Luchino_Visconti) , 1974 Pedro Almodóvar (/wiki/Pedro_Almod%C3%B3var) 's High Heels (/wiki/High_Heels_(1991_film)) movie poster shows a pair of Sergio Rossi shoes The Cachet model is worn by Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) in her video clip " Give Me All Your Luvin' (/wiki/Give_Me_All_Your_Luvin%27) " Blair Waldorf (/wiki/Blair_Waldorf) wears a pair in the Gossip Girl (/wiki/Gossip_Girl) TV series References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) TFL (21 January 2020). "Kering: A Timeline Behind the Building of a Luxury Goods Conglomerate" (https://www.thefashionlaw.com/kering-a-timeline-behind-the-building-of-a-conglomerate/) . The Fashion Law . Retrieved 21 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Kering Sells Shoemaker Sergio Rossi to End Years of Struggle" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/kering-sells-shoemaker-sergio-rossi-to-end-years-of-struggle/) . The Business of Fashion . Retrieved 21 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Is Sergio Rossi For Sale?" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/sergio-rossi-for-sale-italian-footwear-label-kering) . British Vogue . 13 February 2015 . Retrieved 19 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Sergio Rossi" (https://www.sergiorossi.com/ad-en/news/Sustainability_new_version.html) . www.sergiorossi.com . Retrieved 29 January 2023 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.sergiorossi.com/it-en/) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5cff68b999‐hhxcr Cached time: 20240708213950 Cache expiry: 1995612 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.352 seconds Real time usage: 0.487 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1946/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 43784/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 8068/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 8/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 24982/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.221/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7137111/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 433.491 1 -total 22.91% 99.323 3 Template:Ambox 21.91% 94.996 1 Template:Reflist 20.70% 89.722 1 Template:Infobox_company 18.91% 81.956 4 Template:Cite_web 18.42% 79.845 1 Template:Infobox 15.32% 66.397 1 Template:Multiple_issues 15.13% 65.573 1 Template:Short_description 9.58% 41.519 2 Template:Pagetype 8.76% 37.983 1 Template:Undisclosed_paid Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1170593-0!canonical and timestamp 20240708213950 and revision id 1233401219. 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American luxury jewelry and specialty design house "Tiffany's" redirects here. For other uses, see Tiffany (disambiguation) (/wiki/Tiffany_(disambiguation)) . Tiffany & Co. Tiffany's flagship store (/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co._flagship_store) on Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) in 2024 Formerly Tiffany, Young and Ellis (1837–1853) Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded September 18, 1837 (186 years ago) ( 1837-09-18 ) in Brooklyn, Connecticut (/wiki/Brooklyn,_Connecticut) , U.S. Founders Charles Lewis Tiffany (/wiki/Charles_Lewis_Tiffany) John B. Young Headquarters 200 Fifth Avenue (/wiki/200_Fifth_Avenue) New York (/wiki/New_York_City) , NY (/wiki/New_York_(state)) 10010 U.S. Number of locations 326 stores (2020) [1] (#cite_note-statistalocationnumbers-1) Area served Worldwide Key people Anthony Ledru ( CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Alexandre Arnault ( EVP (/wiki/Executive_Vice_President) ) Michael Burke ( Chairman (/wiki/Chairman) ) Products Jewelry (/wiki/Jewelry) porcelain (/wiki/Porcelain) crystal (/wiki/Lead_glass) stationery (/wiki/Stationery) fragrances (/wiki/Cosmetics#Perfume) watches (/wiki/Watch) accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) leather goods (/wiki/Leather_goods) Revenue US$ (/wiki/US$) 4.44 billion (FY Jan. 31, 2019) [2] (#cite_note-TIFfinancials-2) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) $790.3 million (FY Jan. 31, 2019) [2] (#cite_note-TIFfinancials-2) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) $586.4 million (FY Jan. 31, 2019) [2] (#cite_note-TIFfinancials-2) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) $5.33 billion (FY Jan. 31, 2019) [2] (#cite_note-TIFfinancials-2) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) $3.12 billion (FY Jan. 31, 2019) [2] (#cite_note-TIFfinancials-2) Number of employees 14,200 [3] (#cite_note-3) (2019) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) Website www (https://www.tiffany.com/) .tiffany (https://www.tiffany.com/) .com (https://www.tiffany.com/) Footnotes / references [4] (#cite_note-10-K_FY_Jan._31,_2018-4) Tiffany & Co. (colloquially known as Tiffany's ) [4] (#cite_note-10-K_FY_Jan._31,_2018-4) is an American luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) jewelry and specialty design house headquartered on Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Tiffany is known for its luxury goods, particularly its sterling silver (/wiki/Sterling_silver) and diamond (/wiki/Diamond) jewelry. [7] (#cite_note-fundinguniverse.com-7) These goods are sold at Tiffany stores, online, and through corporate merchandising. Its name and branding are licensed to Coty (/wiki/Coty_Inc.) for fragrances [8] (#cite_note-8) and to Luxottica (/wiki/Luxottica) for eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837 by the jeweler Charles Lewis Tiffany (/wiki/Charles_Lewis_Tiffany) and became famous in the early 20th century under the artistic direction of his son Louis Comfort Tiffany (/wiki/Louis_Comfort_Tiffany) . In 2018, net sales totaled US$4.44 billion. [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-statista_857587-11) As of 2023 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tiffany_%26_Co.&action=edit) , Tiffany operated over 300 stores globally, in many countries including the United States, Japan, and Canada, as well as Europe, Latin America, and the collective Asia-Pacific (/wiki/Asia-Pacific) region, and is exploring opportunities in Africa. [1] (#cite_note-statistalocationnumbers-1) The company's product line features fine jewelry, sterling silver, watches, porcelain (/wiki/Porcelain) , crystal, stationery, haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) fragrance and personal accessories, and leather goods. [12] (#cite_note-12) On January 7, 2021, multinational holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (/wiki/LVMH) acquired a majority stake in Tiffany & Co. for US$15.8 billion [13] (#cite_note-13) and delisted Tiffany's stock from the New York Stock Exchange (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) . [14] (#cite_note-:2-14) It remains headquartered in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) and operates as an independent subsidiary. History [ edit ] Establishment [ edit ] Tiffany & Company, Union Square (/wiki/Union_Square_(Manhattan)) , Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) , storage area with porcelain (/wiki/Porcelain) , c. 1887 Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (/wiki/Charles_Lewis_Tiffany) and John B. Young, [15] (#cite_note-15) in New York City, as a "stationery and fancy goods (/wiki/Fancy_goods) emporium", with the help of Charles Tiffany's father, who financed the store for only $1,000 with profits from a cotton mill. [16] (#cite_note-16) The store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items and, as of 1837, operated as "Tiffany, Young and Ellis" at 259 Broadway (/wiki/Broadway_(Manhattan)) in Lower Manhattan (/wiki/Lower_Manhattan) . [17] (#cite_note-nyc-history1988-17) The name was shortened to Tiffany & Company in 1853, when Charles Tiffany took control and established the firm's emphasis on jewelry. [18] (#cite_note-mention-18) The company has since opened stores in major cities worldwide. Unlike other stores at the time in the 1830s, Tiffany clearly marked the prices on its goods to forestall any haggling over prices. In addition, against the social norm at the time, Tiffany only accepted cash payments, and did not allow purchases on credit. [19] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-19) Such practices (fixed prices for ready money) had first been introduced in 1750 by Palmer's of London Bridge. [20] (#cite_note-20) "Blue Book" and the Civil War [ edit ] The first Tiffany mail order (/wiki/Mail_order) catalog, known as the "Blue Book", was published in 1845 in the United States (U.S.), [21] (#cite_note-tiffany.com-21) and publishing of the catalog continues in the 21st century. In 1862, Tiffany supplied the Union Army (/wiki/Union_Army) with swords ( Model 1840 Cavalry Saber (/wiki/Model_1840_Cavalry_Saber) ), flags and surgical implements. In 1867, Tiffany was the first U.S. firm to win an award for excellence in silverware at the Exposition Universelle (/wiki/Exposition_Universelle_(1867)) in Paris. In 1868, Tiffany was incorporated. [7] (#cite_note-fundinguniverse.com-7) "Gilded Age" [ edit ] In 1870, the company built a new store building at 15 Union Square West (/wiki/15_Union_Square_West) , Manhattan, which was designed by John Kellum (/wiki/John_Kellum) and cost US$500,000. It was described by The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) as a "palace of jewels." [22] (#cite_note-Moved_uptown-22) Tiffany stayed at this site until 1906. [22] (#cite_note-Moved_uptown-22) In 1877, an insignia (/wiki/Insignia) that would become the New York Yankees (/wiki/New_York_Yankees) "NY" logo was struck on a police medal of honor by Tiffany; the Yankees adopted the logo in 1909. In 1878, Tiffany won the gold medal for jewelry and a grand prize for silverware at the Paris Exposition. In 1879, Tiffany purchased one of the world's largest yellow diamonds which became known as the Tiffany Diamond (/wiki/Tiffany_Yellow_Diamond) . The Tiffany Diamond has only been worn by four people, one of whom was Audrey Hepburn for the promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany's (/wiki/Breakfast_at_Tiffany%27s_(film)) . [23] (#cite_note-23) In 1887, Tiffany bought a number of pieces at the auction of part of the French Crown Jewels (/wiki/French_Crown_Jewels) , which attracted publicity and further solidified the Tiffany brand's association with high-quality diamonds. [24] (#cite_note-24) The company revised the Great Seal of the United States (/wiki/Great_Seal_of_the_United_States) in 1885. [25] (#cite_note-25) 20th century [ edit ] " Tiffany Cross (/wiki/Tiffany_Cross_Medal_of_Honor) " version of the Medal of Honor (/wiki/Medal_of_Honor) In 1902, after the death of Charles Lewis Tiffany (/wiki/Charles_Lewis_Tiffany) , his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany (/wiki/Louis_Comfort_Tiffany) , became the company's first official design director. [21] (#cite_note-tiffany.com-21) In 1905, the Manhattan flagship store was relocated to the corner of 37th Street and Fifth Avenue, where it would remain for 35 years. [26] (#cite_note-26) In 1919, the company made a revision to the Medal of Honor (/wiki/Medal_of_Honor) on behalf of the United States Department of the Navy (/wiki/United_States_Department_of_the_Navy) . [27] (#cite_note-27) This " Tiffany Cross (/wiki/Tiffany_Cross_Medal_of_Honor) " version was rare because it was awarded only for combat, using the previous design for non-combat awards. [28] (#cite_note-28) In 1942, the Navy established the Tiffany version for non -combat heroism as well but, in August 1942, the Navy subsequently eliminated the Tiffany Cross and the two-medal system. [29] (#cite_note-29) The company moved its flagship store to its present-day 727 Fifth Avenue building (/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co._flagship_store) in 1940; the building was designed by Cross & Cross (/wiki/Cross_%26_Cross) . [30] (#cite_note-30) In 1956, legendary designer Jean Schlumberger (/wiki/Jean_Schlumberger_(jewelry_designer)) joined Tiffany, and Andy Warhol (/wiki/Andy_Warhol) collaborated with the company to create Tiffany holiday cards (circa 1956–1962). [21] (#cite_note-tiffany.com-21) [31] (#cite_note-31) In 1968, Lady Bird Johnson (/wiki/Lady_Bird_Johnson) , First Lady of the U.S. at the time, commissioned Tiffany to design a White House china (/wiki/White_House_china) -service that featured 90 flowers. [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-nfll-33) In November 1978, Tiffany & Co. was sold to Avon Products, Inc (/wiki/Avon_Products_Inc) for about US$104 million in stock. [34] (#cite_note-34) However, in a 1984 Newsweek (/wiki/Newsweek) article, the Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) Tiffany store was likened to the Macy's (/wiki/Macy%27s) department store during a white sale (/wiki/White_sale) , due to the high number of inexpensive items on sale; [19] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-19) furthermore, customers complained about declining quality and service. In August 1984, Avon sold Tiffany to an investor group led by William R. Chaney for $135.5 million in cash. Tiffany went public (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) again in 1987 and raised about $103.5 million from the sale of 4.5 million shares of common stock (/wiki/Common_stock) . [19] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-19) Due to the 1990–1991 recession (/wiki/1990%E2%80%931991_recession) in the United States, Tiffany commenced an emphasis upon mass merchandising (/wiki/Mass_merchandising) . A new campaign was launched that stressed how Tiffany could be affordable for all; for example, the company advertised that the price of diamond engagement rings started at $850. "How to Buy a Diamond" brochures were sent to 40,000 people, who called a toll-free number specifically set up to target the broader population. [19] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-19) However, to maintain its image as a luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) company, high-style images remained on display in Tiffany stores. [19] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-19) On September 4, 1994, a jewelry heist occurred at the store in New York City, in which six men stole $1.9 million of jewelry. During the incident, no shots were fired and no vandalism occurred. Two weeks after the robbery, the six men were arrested and the jewelry was recovered. [35] (#cite_note-35) Tiffany & Co. trademarked their signature Tiffany Blue (/wiki/Tiffany_Blue) color in 1998. Three years later they partnered with Pantone (/wiki/Pantone) to standardize the color as "1837 Blue". [36] (#cite_note-cnnblue-36) 2000s [ edit ] Tiffany & Co. blue (/wiki/Tiffany_Blue) gift boxes The Tiffany & Co. Foundation was established in 2000 to provide grants to nonprofit organizations working in the areas of the environment and the arts. [37] (#cite_note-37) In June 2004, Tiffany sued eBay (/wiki/EBay) , claiming that the latter was making profits from the sale of counterfeit Tiffany products; [38] (#cite_note-38) however, Tiffany lost both at trial and on appeal (/wiki/Tiffany_(NJ)_Inc._v._eBay_Inc.) . [39] (#cite_note-39) Tiffany & Co. established their subsidiary Laurelton Diamonds in 2002 to manage Tiffany's worldwide diamond supply chain. [40] (#cite_note-40) In 2009, a collaboration between the Japanese mobile-phone operator SoftBank (/wiki/SoftBank) and Tiffany & Co. was announced. The two companies designed a cellphone, limited to ten copies, and containing more than 400 diamonds, totaling more than 20 carats (4.0 g). Each cellphone cost more than 100 million yen ( £ (/wiki/Pound_sterling) 781,824). [41] (#cite_note-41) Also in 2009, the company launched their Tiffany Keys collection. [42] (#cite_note-42) 2010s and 2020s [ edit ] A media report in early July 2013 revealed that former Tiffany & Co. vice president Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun had been arrested and charged with stealing more than $1.3 million of diamond bracelets, drop earrings, and other jewelry. According to prosecutors from Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) , the official charges filed against Lederhaas-Okun accused her of "wire fraud and interstate transportation of stolen property." [43] (#cite_note-43) The company's Francesca Amfitheatrof (/wiki/Francesca_Amfitheatrof) -designed Tiffany T collection debuted in 2014. [44] (#cite_note-44) In February 2017, the company announced that CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) Frédéric Cuménal (/wiki/Frederic_Cumenal) was out of a job, effective immediately, after only 22 months, blaming weak sales results. He was replaced on an interim (/wiki/Interim_management) basis by the company's longtime former CEO, Michael Kowalski (/wiki/Michael_J._Kowalski) . [45] (#cite_note-45) Shortly before his abrupt departure, Cuménal had appointed former Coach (/wiki/Coach_New_York) designer Reed Krakoff (/wiki/Reed_Krakoff) as the company's new chief artistic officer. Although Krakoff had had no previous experience with jewellery design, his previous success with Coach and "deep understanding of iconic American design" led to his appointment, with the hopes that Krakoff would be able to refresh the image of the brand. [46] (#cite_note-46) [47] (#cite_note-47) In April 2017, the company launched their Tiffany HardWear collection. [48] (#cite_note-48) In July 2017, it was announced that Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) veteran Alessandro Bogliolo would be taking over as CEO. Under his leadership, it was hoped that Tiffany & Co. could turn around slumping sales and capture a younger audience. [49] (#cite_note-49) Tiffany & Co. opened the Blue Box Cafe in New York City in November 2017. [50] (#cite_note-wsjkrakoff-50) Also in November 2017, the company launched their Home & Accessories line. [51] (#cite_note-51) In March 2018, the company opened the Jewelry Design and Innovation Workshop, a new 17,000-square-foot atelier (/wiki/Atelier) . [50] (#cite_note-wsjkrakoff-50) In May 2018, Tiffany launched their Paper Flowers Collection, designed by Reed Krakoff. [52] (#cite_note-52) In September 2018, Tiffany launched their Paper Flowers collection in Asia. [53] (#cite_note-53) That same month, the company debuted a new proprietary engagement ring design called the Tiffany True. [54] (#cite_note-54) In August 2019, Tiffany launched their first men's jewelry collection in October of the same year. [55] (#cite_note-55) The line was developed by Reed Krakoff. [56] (#cite_note-56) In October 2019, Tiffany opened a new brand exhibition in Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai) , China called "Vision & Virtuosity". [57] (#cite_note-57) Tiffany opened its first store in New Delhi (/wiki/New_Delhi) , India on 3 February 2020. [58] (#cite_note-58) After the start of Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine, the brand announced that it was stopping purchasing diamonds from Russia. However, it was later revealed that they continued to purchase through intermediaries, including the UAE. [1] (https://www.epravda.com.ua/news/2023/10/12/705412/) Due to the weak US sanctions and the absence of EU sanctions on this export sector, the Russian company Alrosa (/wiki/Alrosa) , which is partially state-owned, continues to profit from the sale of precious stones. There are suggestions that the company directs part of the profits to finance the Russian army. Acquisition by LVMH [ edit ] In November 2019, LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) announced its purchase of Tiffany & Co for $16.2 billion, $135 per share. [59] (#cite_note-lvmhdeal-59) The deal was expected to close by June 2020. [60] (#cite_note-lvmhdeal2-60) After LVMH decided to cancel the pending purchase of Tiffany in September 2020, Tiffany filed suit, asking the court to compel the purchase or to assess damages against the defendant; LVMH planned to counter sue, alleging that mismanagement had invalidated the purchase agreement. [61] (#cite_note-61) In mid-September 2020, a reliable source told Forbes (/wiki/Forbes_(magazine)) that LVMH had decided to cancel the deal because Tiffany was paying millions in dividends to shareholders despite financial losses during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) . Some US$70 million had already been paid by Tiffany, with an additional US$70 million to be paid in November 2020. [62] (#cite_note-62) LVMH filed a counterclaim against the court action commenced by Tiffany; a statement issued by LVMH blamed Tiffany's mismanagement during the pandemic and claimed that it was "burning cash and reporting losses". [63] (#cite_note-63) In late October 2020, LVMH announced that it had agreed to buy Tiffany & Co. at a reduced price of almost $16 billion, and lowered price from $135 per share to $131.5 per share. The court cases would be set aside. [64] (#cite_note-64) [65] (#cite_note-White-65) In December 2020, Tiffany & Co's shareholders approved a $15.8 billion deal with LVMH. [66] (#cite_note-66) The deal closed on January 7, 2021, and Tiffany' stock was delisted from the New York Stock Exchange (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) . [67] (#cite_note-67) [14] (#cite_note-:2-14) After LVMH's acquisition, several of Tiffany's senior leaders were replaced with executives from other sectors of LVMH. [68] (#cite_note-68) [69] (#cite_note-:1-69) Alexandre Arnault, the son of LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) , was given the role of executive vice president. [70] (#cite_note-70) LVMH group's plans include expanding Tiffany & Co.'s presence in Europe (/wiki/Europe) and China (/wiki/China) . [71] (#cite_note-71) [69] (#cite_note-:1-69) "Tiffany is less exposed than rivals to Asia-Pacific - a major driver for luxury sales - which accounted for 28% of its worldwide sales of $4.4 billion in 2019." [72] (#cite_note-72) Stores [ edit ] Tiffany's flagship store, interior Tiffany & Co. at Phipps Plaza (/wiki/Phipps_Plaza) in Atlanta, Georgia (/wiki/Atlanta,_Georgia) Since 1940, Tiffany's flagship store (/wiki/Flagship_store) has operated at the corner of Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) and 57th Street (/wiki/57th_Street_(Manhattan)) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) , New York City. The polished granite exterior is well known for its window displays, and the store has been the location for a number of films, including Breakfast at Tiffany's (/wiki/Breakfast_at_Tiffany%27s_(film)) , starring Audrey Hepburn (/wiki/Audrey_Hepburn) , and Sweet Home Alabama (/wiki/Sweet_Home_Alabama_(film)) , starring Reese Witherspoon (/wiki/Reese_Witherspoon) . Beginning in 2019, the store underwent an extensive renovation, concluding in 2023 and reopening to the public on April 27. The project was designed by American architect Peter Marino (/wiki/Peter_Marino) . [73] (#cite_note-73) The former Tiffany and Company Building (/wiki/Tiffany_and_Company_Building) on 37th Street is on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places (/wiki/National_Register_of_Historic_Places) . [74] (#cite_note-74) When it opened in 1990, the Tiffany & Co. store at Fairfax Square (/wiki/Fairfax_Square) in Tysons Corner, Virginia (/wiki/Tysons_Corner,_Virginia) , became the largest outside of New York City, with 14,500 sq ft (1,350 m 2 ) of retail space. [75] (#cite_note-75) In France, Tiffany stores are located in Rue de la Paix (/wiki/Rue_de_la_Paix,_Paris) and the Avenue des Champs Elysées (/wiki/Champs-%C3%89lys%C3%A9es) (the largest European store [76] (#cite_note-76) ) in Paris (/wiki/Paris) . In Australia (/wiki/Australia) , Tiffany's flagship store is located on Collins Street (/wiki/Collins_Street,_Melbourne) in Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) , first established in 1996. [77] (#cite_note-77) Tiffany has since opened a further eight stores in Australia, located in Melbourne, Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) , Brisbane (/wiki/Brisbane) , Perth (/wiki/Perth) , Adelaide (/wiki/Adelaide) and the Gold Coast (/wiki/Gold_Coast,_Queensland) . [78] (#cite_note-78) On March 8, 2001, Tiffany launched its first Latin American store in São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo) , Brazil (/wiki/Brazil) , located in the Iguatemi São Paulo shopping center (/wiki/Iguatemi_S%C3%A3o_Paulo) . [79] (#cite_note-79) The company opened a second store in the city on October 20, 2003, [80] (#cite_note-80) near the famous Oscar Freire Street (/wiki/Rua_Oscar_Freire) . In 2004, Tiffany created "Iridesse", a chain of stores dedicated to pearl-only jewelry. The company operated 16 stores in Florida (/wiki/Florida) , New Jersey (/wiki/New_Jersey) , New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) , Pennsylvania (/wiki/Pennsylvania) , California (/wiki/California) , Illinois (/wiki/Illinois) , Massachusetts (/wiki/Massachusetts) , and Virginia (/wiki/Virginia) . However, the chain operated at a loss since its founding and the company announced in early 2009 that, despite its continued belief in the concept, it would discontinue Iridesse due to the financial crisis of 2007-2008 (/wiki/Financial_crisis_of_2007-2008) . [81] (#cite_note-81) As of 2018, Tiffany operated 93 stores in the US and 321 stores worldwide, including (as of 31 January 2017) 55 locations in Japan and 85 in the Asia-Pacific region. Net sales in 2018 totaled US$4.44 billion. [82] (#cite_note-82) [11] (#cite_note-statista_857587-11) In December 2023, Tiffany opened a store in Shanghai Taikoo Li Qiantan, [83] (#cite_note-83) with the facade designed by MVRDV (/wiki/MVRDV) . This opening followed earlier work between the two companies at Singapore's Changi Airport (/wiki/Changi_Airport) for which MVRDV created a 3-D printed facade using recycled ocean plastic. [84] (#cite_note-84) In April 2024, Tiffany & Co. opened their newest store at QueensPlaza (/wiki/QueensPlaza) in Brisbane (/wiki/Brisbane) . [85] (#cite_note-85) Advertising [ edit ] Tiffany & Co. at Central, Hong Kong (/wiki/Central,_Hong_Kong) After the initial publication of the "Blue Book" Tiffany catalog in 1845, Tiffany continued to use its catalog as part of its advertisement strategy. The Tiffany catalog, one of the first catalogs printed in full color, remained free until 1972. Tiffany's mail-order catalogs reached 15 million people in 1994. Tiffany also produces a corporate-gift catalog each year, and corporate customers purchase Tiffany products for business (/wiki/Trade) gift-giving, employee-service and achievement-recognition awards, and for customer incentives. As of 2013 Tiffany still produces a catalog for subscribers, but its advertisement strategy no longer focuses primarily on its catalog. [7] (#cite_note-fundinguniverse.com-7) In addition to the mail-order catalog, Tiffany displays its advertisements in many locations, including at bus stops, in magazines and newspapers, and online. With the advent of new technologies, Tiffany placed banner advertisements (/wiki/Banner_advertisements) in the New York Times' mobile app (/wiki/Mobile_app) for the iPhone (/wiki/IPhone) , whereby the user can download the Tiffany app. [86] (#cite_note-86) [87] (#cite_note-87) In January 2015, Tiffany launched its first ever same-sex couple campaign. In 2017, Tiffany partnered with American pop star Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) for an ad campaign promoting the company's HardWear collection. [88] (#cite_note-88) The announcement came as a Super Bowl (/wiki/Super_Bowl) ad prior to Lady Gaga's Super Bowl LI halftime show (/wiki/Super_Bowl_LI_halftime_show) performance. [89] (#cite_note-89) In May 2018, Tiffany partnered with Spotify (/wiki/Spotify) for the launch of Tiffany's "Believe in Dreams" campaign and Paper Flowers collection, releasing a cover of the song " Moon River (/wiki/Moon_River) " by Elle Fanning (/wiki/Elle_Fanning) and rapper A$AP Ferg (/wiki/A$AP_Ferg) on the music streaming service. [90] (#cite_note-90) In 2019, Tiffany partnered with American celebrity Kendall Jenner (/wiki/Kendall_Jenner) to promote the company's spring fashion line. [91] (#cite_note-91) In 2021, Tiffany partnered with American singer Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) and rapper Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) to promote the company's "About Love" campaign. [92] (#cite_note-:0-92) Beyoncé became the fourth woman, and first Black woman, to wear the Tiffany Yellow Diamond. [93] (#cite_note-93) The campaign incorporated Tiffany's recently acquired robin egg blue (/wiki/Robin_egg_blue) painting, Equals Pi (/wiki/Equals_Pi) (1982), by American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat (/wiki/Jean-Michel_Basquiat) . [92] (#cite_note-:0-92) In 2022, Tiffany partnered with Curtis Kulig (/wiki/Curtis_Kulig) while retaining his original "Love Me" concept, Kulig also created other love-themed messages such as: "Dare Me," "Know Me," and "Kiss Me" to be displayed alongside the Tiffany HardWear, Tiffany Knot and Tiffany T collections. [94] (#cite_note-94) Products [ edit ] Diamonds [ edit ] The Tiffany Yellow Diamond (/wiki/Tiffany_Yellow_Diamond) Tiffany is known for its luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) , particularly its diamond and sterling silver jewelry. [95] (#cite_note-95) [96] (#cite_note-96) [97] (#cite_note-97) [98] (#cite_note-98) George Frederick Kunz (/wiki/George_Frederick_Kunz) (1856–1932), a Tiffany gemologist (/wiki/Gemologist) , became instrumental in the international adoption of the metric carat (/wiki/Carat_(unit)) as a weight standard for gems. The Tiffany Yellow Diamond (128.54 carats (25.708 g)) is usually on display in the New York City flagship store. [99] (#cite_note-99) In 1886, founder Charles Tiffany conceived of the Tiffany Setting ring design, in which six prongs hold the diamond off of the band, in order to better accentuate the diamond. [100] (#cite_note-100) Like other similar diamond retailers, Tiffany enacts a strict policy against the repurchasing of diamonds sold from its stores. In 1978, a woman in New York City was denied after she attempted to sell back a diamond ring she had bought from Tiffany two years earlier for $100,000. Writing for The Atlantic (/wiki/The_Atlantic) publication in 1982, Edward Jay Epstein (/wiki/Edward_Jay_Epstein) explained the rationale for such a policy: Retail jewelers, especially the prestigious Fifth Avenue stores, prefer not to buy back diamonds from customers, because the offer they would make would most likely be considered ridiculously low ... Most jewelers would prefer not to make a customer an offer that might be deemed insulting and also might undercut the widely held notion that diamonds go up in value. Moreover, since retailers generally receive their diamonds from wholesalers on consignment, and need not pay for them until they are sold, they would not readily risk their own cash to buy diamonds from customers. Rather than offer customers a fraction of what they paid for diamonds, retail jewelers almost invariably recommend to their clients firms that specialize in buying diamonds "retail". [101] (#cite_note-101) In 2019, Tiffany CEO Alessandro Bogliolo announced that in 2020 the company would become transparent regarding the country or region of origin of the company's newly sourced and individually registered diamonds. [102] (#cite_note-102) Colored gemstones [ edit ] Tiffany offers jewelry incorporating a wide variety of colored gemstones, including gems it played a role in popularizing, such as tsavorite (/wiki/Tsavorite) , [103] (#cite_note-ICA-103) kunzite (/wiki/Spodumene#Kunzite) , and morganite (/wiki/Morganite) . In February 2015 a turquoise (/wiki/Turquoise) and aquamarine (/wiki/Aquamarines) bib designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, Tiffany's design director, and worn by Cate Blanchett (/wiki/Cate_Blanchett) at the 2015 Academy Awards (/wiki/87th_Academy_Awards) , contrasted favorably with the white–diamond encrusted jewelry worn by other stars. [104] (#cite_note-NYT41415-104) Fragrances [ edit ] Original 1989 sample bottle of "Tiffany for Men" fragrance In the late 1980s, Tiffany & Co. ventured into the fragrance business. "Tiffany" for women was launched in 1987, a floral perfume for women by perfumer François Demachy (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Demachy) . At $220 per ounce, "Tiffany" was successfully marketed by major department stores across the United States. [105] (#cite_note-105) Two years later, "Tiffany for Men" was launched in 1989 and developed by perfumer Jacques Polge (/wiki/Jacques_Polge) . The bottles for both the men's and women's fragrance were designed by Pierre Dinand. [106] (#cite_note-106) In 1995, Tiffany launched "Trueste" perfume for women, which was later discontinued. [ citation needed ] In October 2019, Tiffany launched a new fragrance line, Tiffany & Love. [107] (#cite_note-107) Sports awards [ edit ] Tiffany & Co is the maker of the Vince Lombardi Trophy (/wiki/Vince_Lombardi_Trophy) , made for the winner of the NFL (/wiki/National_Football_League) team that wins the Super Bowl (/wiki/Super_Bowl) that year. [108] (#cite_note-Tiffany_Trophies-108) [109] (#cite_note-109) Since 1977, Tiffany & Co. has manufactured Larry O' Brien Trophy (/wiki/Larry_O%27Brien_Championship_Trophy) , the trophy that is given to the winner of the NBA Finals (/wiki/NBA_Finals) . [108] (#cite_note-Tiffany_Trophies-108) Tiffany makes and designed the World Baseball Classic Trophy (/wiki/World_Baseball_Classic_Trophy) , and Commissioner's Trophy (/wiki/Commissioner%27s_Trophy_(MLB)) trophy each year, given to the winner of the World Series (/wiki/World_Series) . [108] (#cite_note-Tiffany_Trophies-108) Tiffany & Co made the 2010 (/wiki/2010_World_Series) and 2012 (/wiki/2012_World_Series) World Series rings (/wiki/World_Series_ring) for the San Francisco Giants (/wiki/San_Francisco_Giants) . [110] (#cite_note-110) Since 1987, Tiffany silversmiths have crafted the US Open trophies for the United States Tennis Association (/wiki/United_States_Tennis_Association) . [108] (#cite_note-Tiffany_Trophies-108) Tiffany & Co. makes the PGA Tour (/wiki/PGA_Tour) FedEx Cup (/wiki/FedEx_Cup) Trophy each year since 2007. [108] (#cite_note-Tiffany_Trophies-108) The MLS (/wiki/Major_League_Soccer) championship trophy (/wiki/MLS_Cup) was made by Tiffany & Co. [111] (#cite_note-111) A £10,000 Rugby League World Cup trophy (/wiki/Rugby_League_World_Cup_trophy) was made by Tiffany's to celebrate the centenary of Rugby league (/wiki/Rugby_league) . [112] (#cite_note-112) In 2021, Tiffany & Co. joined the LCK (/wiki/League_of_Legends_Champions_Korea) sponsorship team after noticing the league's rapid growth. Tiffany & Co. would award championship rings to the winners of the LCK (/wiki/League_of_Legends_Champions_Korea) finals for the next three years beginning with the Summer Split of 2021. [113] (#cite_note-113) In LPL (/wiki/League_of_Legends_Pro_League) , a trophy was designed by Tiffany and Co. for the new Silver Dragon Cup to commemorate LoL (/wiki/League_of_Legends) 's tenth anniversary in China. [114] (#cite_note-114) From the 2022 League of Legends World Championship (/wiki/2022_League_of_Legends_World_Championship) onwards, Tiffany & Co. are the official makers of the newly redesigned Summoner's Cup, which was first awarded to DRX (/wiki/DRX_(esports)) after their 3-2 victory over T1 (/wiki/T1_(esports)) . Philanthropy [ edit ] In 2000, The Tiffany & Co. Foundation awarded its first grant to support coral and marine conservation. To date, the foundation has awarded over $20 million in grant money to coral and marine conservation causes. [115] (#cite_note-elle_coral-115) In 2008, The Tiffany & Co. Foundation donated $2 million to the University of Pennsylvania for the construction of an HIV/AIDS treatment facility in Botswana. [116] (#cite_note-116) In 2010, Tiffany awarded a $1 million grant to the Trust for Public Land and its campaign to save Cahuenga Peak (/wiki/Cahuenga_Peak) . [117] (#cite_note-117) Tiffany launched their Save the Wild Collection in 2017, a line at promoting endangered wildlife conservation. [118] (#cite_note-118) Save the Wild debuted as part of the #KnotOnMyPlanet wildlife conservation campaign. [119] (#cite_note-119) In 2018, Tiffany announced a commitment of approximately $1.4 million to Australia (/wiki/Australia) for efforts to protect and conserve the Great Barrier Reef (/wiki/Great_Barrier_Reef) . [120] (#cite_note-120) Corporate sustainability efforts [ edit ] Tiffany has bought ethically mined gold (/wiki/Gold) since 1992. The company also abides by the Kimberley certification process (/wiki/Kimberley_Process_Certification_Scheme) when sourcing diamonds (/wiki/Diamond) . [121] (#cite_note-triplepundit-121) Tiffany discontinued sales of coral jewelry in 2004 due to declining oceanic health. [115] (#cite_note-elle_coral-115) In 2005, Tiffany joined Earthwork's No Dirty Gold campaign, becoming the first jewelry company to apply the Earthwork's Golden Rules for responsible mining (/wiki/Responsible_mining) . [122] (#cite_note-122) In 2006, Tiffany & Co. joined Microsoft (/wiki/Microsoft) , IdustriALL Global Union, United Steelworkers along with others in founding the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance, known as IRMA. [123] (#cite_note-123) In 2011, Tiffany joined the United Nations Global Compact (/wiki/United_Nations_Global_Compact) initiative in efforts to align company operations with the non-binding global sustainability and human rights goals. [121] (#cite_note-triplepundit-121) In 2015, Anisa Costa was appointed Tiffany's first-ever Chief Sustainability Officer. [124] (#cite_note-124) [125] (#cite_note-125) That same year, Tiffany pledged to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. The company also advocated for the U.S. to remain in the Paris Agreement (/wiki/Paris_Agreement) along with other companies. [126] (#cite_note-126) In popular culture [ edit ] The retailer has been mentioned in various works, most notably in the title of the 1958 Truman Capote (/wiki/Truman_Capote) novella Breakfast at Tiffany's (/wiki/Breakfast_at_Tiffany%27s_(novella)) , adapted as the 1961 film (/wiki/Breakfast_at_Tiffany%27s_(film)) starring Audrey Hepburn (/wiki/Audrey_Hepburn) . [127] (#cite_note-127) Gallery [ edit ] Silver tea pot White House china (/wiki/White_House_china) service for Lady Bird Johnson (/wiki/Lady_Bird_Johnson) Tea set, c. 1877 , held at the Birmingham Museum of Art (/wiki/Birmingham_Museum_of_Art) Carved frog for display at the Exposition Universelle (1900) (/wiki/Exposition_Universelle_(1900)) in Paris (/wiki/Paris) Diamond necklace, c. 1904 Hooker Emerald Brooch (/wiki/Hooker_Emerald_Brooch) , commissioned by Tiffany in 1950 Tray or Waiter, displayed at World's Columbian Exposition, 1893, Brooklyn Museum (/wiki/Brooklyn_Museum) See also [ edit ] New York City portal (/wiki/Portal:New_York_City) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Art Nouveau glass art (/wiki/Art_Nouveau_glass_art) Yeojin Bae (/wiki/Yeojin_Bae) Clara Driscoll (Tiffany glass designer) (/wiki/Clara_Driscoll_(Tiffany_glass_designer)) Walter Hoving (/wiki/Walter_Hoving) John Loring (designer) (/wiki/John_Loring_(designer)) Camille Le Tallec (/wiki/Camille_Le_Tallec) Tiffany glass (/wiki/Tiffany_glass) Tiffany lamp (/wiki/Tiffany_lamp) LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) Notes [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b O'Connell, Liam (March 27, 2020). "Tiffany & Co.'s number of retail locations worldwide in 2019, by region" (https://www.statista.com/statistics/857587/number-of-tiffany-and-co-stores-by-region-worldwide/) . Statista . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200803234153/https://www.statista.com/statistics/857587/number-of-tiffany-and-co-stores-by-region-worldwide/) from the original on August 3, 2020 . Retrieved May 7, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Tiffany & Co. (TIF) NYSE – Nasdaq Real Time Price. Currency in USD" (https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/TIF/financials?p=TIF) . Yahoo . May 19, 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200924230058/https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/TIF/financials?p=TIF) from the original on September 24, 2020 . Retrieved May 19, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Tiffany company profile" (https://craft.co/tiffany-co) . Craft . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809095603/https://craft.co/tiffany-co) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved August 9, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b "US SEC: Form 10-K Tiffany & Co" (https://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar/data/98246/000009824617000061/tif-2017131x10k.htm) . U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (/wiki/U.S._Securities_and_Exchange_Commission) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200815140605/https://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar/data/98246/000009824617000061/tif-2017131x10k.htm) from the original on August 15, 2020 . Retrieved February 22, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Dana Rubinstein (April 29, 2010). "Tiffany & Co. To Relocate Headquarters to Flatiron District" (https://observer.com/2010/04/tiffany-co-to-relocate-headquarters-to-flatiron-district/) . The New York Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210214102526/https://observer.com/2010/04/tiffany-co-to-relocate-headquarters-to-flatiron-district/) from the original on February 14, 2021 . Retrieved February 8, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Tiffany & Co" (http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/business/companies/tiffany_and_co/index.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150906090010/http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/business/companies/tiffany_and_co/index.html) from the original on September 6, 2015 . Retrieved January 20, 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "History of Tiffany & Company – FundingUniverse" (http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/Tiffany-amp;-Co-company-History.html) . Fundinguniverse.com. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120513011759/http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/Tiffany-amp;-Co-company-History.html) from the original on May 13, 2012 . Retrieved February 18, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Danziger, Pamela (August 19, 2017). 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809124711/https://penntoday.upenn.edu/news/tiffany-co-foundation-gives-2-million-penn-hivaids-treatment-center-botswana) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-117) "Hugh Hefner Honored for $1 Million Hollywood Sign Contribution" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/hugh-hefner-honored-1-million-242706) . THR . September 30, 2011. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200827223701/https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/hugh-hefner-honored-1-million-242706) from the original on August 27, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-118) Park, Andrea (March 7, 2019). "Good Company: Tiffany & Co.'s Save the Wild Collection" (https://www.barrons.com/articles/good-company-tiffany-co-s-save-the-wild-collection-01551960005) . Barrons . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809114634/https://www.barrons.com/articles/good-company-tiffany-co-s-save-the-wild-collection-01551960005) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-119) Akel, Joseph (July 24, 2019). "Game Changers: How Tiffany & Co and KnotOnMyPlanet Are Trying to Save the Elephants" (https://www.lofficielusa.com/politics-culture/game-changers-tiffany-elephant-2019) . L'Officiel . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809084247/https://www.lofficielusa.com/politics-culture/game-changers-tiffany-elephant-2019) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-120) Truman, Isabelle (July 26, 2018). "Tiffany & Co. Is Campaigning To Save The Great Barrier Reef" (https://www.marieclaire.com.au/tiffany-and-co-great-barrier-reef) . Marie Claire . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200925102740/https://www.marieclaire.com.au/tiffany-and-co-great-barrier-reef) from the original on September 25, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Vijayaraghavan, Akhila (November 16, 2011). "Tiffany & Co Launches Sustainability Website" (https://www.triplepundit.com/story/2011/tiffany-co-launches-sustainability-website/71586) . Triple Pundit . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809090531/https://www.triplepundit.com/story/2011/tiffany-co-launches-sustainability-website/71586) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved May 5, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-122) Semeuls, Alana (February 14, 2007). "Jewelry companies look for values in valuables" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2007-feb-14-fi-jewelry14-story.html) . LA Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809110932/https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2007-feb-14-fi-jewelry14-story.html) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved May 5, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-123) "BMW backs responsible mining" (https://www.miningmagazine.com/sustainability/news/1378795/bmw-backs-responsible-mining) . Mining Magazine . January 10, 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200114073922/https://www.miningmagazine.com/sustainability/news/1378795/bmw-backs-responsible-mining) from the original on January 14, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-124) Faulkner, Noelle (March 11, 2018). "Anisa Kamadoli Costa, chief sustainability officer at Tiffany & Co" (https://www.vogue.com.au/gamechangers/fashion-and-culture/anisa-kamadoli-costa-chief-sustainability-officer-at-tiffany-co/news-story/da762a85a597d01754b60b58eb186749) . Vogue . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200809091513/https://www.vogue.com.au/gamechangers/fashion-and-culture/anisa-kamadoli-costa-chief-sustainability-officer-at-tiffany-co/news-story/da762a85a597d01754b60b58eb186749) from the original on August 9, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-125) "Anisa Kamadoli Costa Bloomberg profile" (https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/person/19130197) . Bloomberg . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20211001224125/https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/person/19130197) from the original on October 1, 2021 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-126) Stephanie, Chan (May 9, 2017). "Tiffany & Co. Sends Message About Climate Change to Donald Trump" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/tiffany-climate-change-message-donald-trump-1001902) . THR . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200828011548/https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/tiffany-climate-change-message-donald-trump-1001902) from the original on August 28, 2020 . Retrieved May 4, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-127) Goldfield, Hannah (November 17, 2017). "You Can't Have Breakfast at Tiffany's" (https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/you-cant-have-breakfast-at-tiffanys) . The New Yorker . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210624004900/https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/you-cant-have-breakfast-at-tiffanys) from the original on June 24, 2021 . Retrieved August 10, 2021 . References [ edit ] Bezdek, Richard H. American Swords and Sword Makers . Boulder, Colorado: Paladin Press, 1999. Bizot, Chantal, Marie-Noël de Gary, and Évelyne Possémé. The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger . New York: Harry N. Abrams, Publisher, 2001. (English translation) Carpenter, Charles and Janet Zapata. The Silver of Tiffany & Company, 1850–1987 . Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, 1987. Dietz, Ulysses Grant, Jenna Weissman Joselit, and Kevin J. Smead. The Glitter and the Gold: Fashioning America's Jewelry . Newark: The National Endowment for the Humanities, 1997. Duncan, Alastair, Martin Eidelberg, and Neil Harris. Masterworks of Louis Comfort Tiffany . New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers, 1989. Catalogue for an exhibition at the Renwick Gallery, Washington, D.C., from September 29, 1989 – March 4, 1990 and at the National Academy of Design, New York, from March 27 – July 8, 1990. Fashion Institute of Technology. Elsa Peretti (/wiki/Elsa_Peretti) : Fifteen of My Fifty with Tiffany . New York: Fashion Institute of Technology, 1990. Exhibition catalogue, April 24 – May 10, 1990. Frelinghuysen, Alice Cooney. Louis Comfort Tiffany and Laurelton Hall . New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press, 2006. Green, Annette and Linda Dyett. Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry . Paris: Flammarion, 1998. Hood, William P., with Roslyn Berlin and Edward Wawrynek. Tiffany Silver Flatware 1845–1905: When Dining was an Art . Suffolk, England: Antique Collectors Club, 1999. Loring, John. Tiffany Colored Gems . New York: Abrams, 2007. (Available Fall 2007) Loring, John. Greetings from Andy Warhol: Christmas at Tiffany's . New York: Abrams, 2004. Loring, John. Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co. New York: Abrams, 2002. Loring, John. Magnificent Tiffany Silver . New York: Abrams, 2001. Loring, John. The New Tiffany Tablesettings . New York: Doubleday, 1981. Loring, John. Paulding Farnham: Tiffany's Lost Genius . New York: Abrams, 2000. Loring, John. A Tiffany Christmas . New York: Doubleday, 1996. Loring, John. Tiffany Diamonds . New York: Abrams, 2005. Loring, John. Tiffany in Fashion . New York: Abrams, 2003. Loring, John. Tiffany Flora and Fauna . New York: Abrams, 2003. Loring, John. The Tiffany Gourmet Cookbook . New York: Doubleday, 1992. Loring, John. Tiffany Jewels . New York: Abrams, 1999. Loring, John. Tiffany's 150 Years . New York: Doubleday, 1987. Loring, John. Tiffany's Palm Beach . New York: Abrams, 2005. Loring, John. Tiffany Parties . New York: Doubleday, 1989. Loring, John. Tiffany Pearls . New York: Abrams, 2006. Loring, John. Tiffany Taste . New York: Doubleday, 1986. Loring, John. Tiffany Timepieces . New York: Abrams, 2004. Loring, John. Tiffany's 20th Century: A Portrait of American Style . New York: Abrams, 1997. Loring, John. The Tiffany Wedding . New York: Doubleday, 1988. Newman, Harold. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry . London: Thames and Hudson, 1981. Phillips, Clare. Bejewelled by Tiffany: 1837–1987 . New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2006. Proddow, Penny and Debra Healy. American Jewelry, Glamour & Tradition . New York: Rizzoli, 1987. Proddow, Penny and Debra Healy. Diamonds: A Century of Spectacular Jewels . New York: Abrams, 1996. Purtell, Joseph. The Tiffany Touch . New York: Random House, 1971. Ricci, Franco Maria. Jean Schlumberger . Milan: Franco Maria Ricci, 1991. Schnierla, Peter and Penny Proddow. Tiffany: 150 Years of Gems and Jewelry . New York: Tiffany & Co., 1987. Snowman, Kenneth A. The Master Jewelers . New York: Abrams, 1990. Stern, Jewel. Modernism in American Silver . New Haven: Yale University Press, 2005. Tiffany Retrospective: Designs from Tiffany and Co., 1837–1999. Tokyo and New York: APT, 1999. Un Diamant Dans La Ville: Jean Schlumberger 1907–1987 Bijoux – Objets. Paris: Musee des Arts decoratifs: 1995. Venable, Charles L. Silver in America 1840–1940: A Century of Splendor . Dallas, Texas: Dallas Museum of Art, 1994. Warren, David B. et al. Marks of Achievement: Four Centuries of American Presentation Silver . Houston: Museum of Fine Arts, in association with Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1987. Zapata, Janet. The Jewelry and Enamels of Louis Comfort Tiffany . New York: Harry N. Abrams, Publishers, 1993. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Tiffany & Co. (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Tiffany_%26_Co.) . 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Form of art using the human body as the canvas "Face Painter" redirects here. For the EP, see Emma Dean (musician) (/wiki/Emma_Dean_(musician)) . For the Seinfeld episode, see The Face Painter (/wiki/The_Face_Painter) . Indigenous American body painting Body painting is a form of body art (/wiki/Body_art) where artwork is painted directly onto the human skin (/wiki/Human_skin) . Unlike tattoos (/wiki/Tattoo) and other forms of body art, body painting is temporary, lasting several hours or sometimes up to a few weeks (in the case of mehndi (/wiki/Mehndi) or "henna tattoos" about two weeks). Body painting that is limited to the face (/wiki/Face) is known as face painting . Body painting is also referred to as (a form of) "temporary tattoo". Large scale or full-body painting is more commonly referred to as body painting, while smaller or more detailed work can sometimes be referred to as temporary tattoos. Indigenous [ edit ] Indigenous body painting Body painting with a grey or white paint made from natural pigments (/wiki/Pigment) including clay, chalk, ash and cattle dung is traditional in many tribal (/wiki/Tribal) cultures. Often worn during cultural ceremonies, it is believed to assist with the moderation of body heat and the use of striped patterns may reduce the incidence of biting insects. It still survives in this ancient form among Indigenous Australians (/wiki/Indigenous_Australians) and in parts of Africa (/wiki/Africa) and Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) , [1] (#cite_note-1) as well as in New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) and the Pacific islands (/wiki/Pacific_islands) . A semi-permanent form of body painting known as Mehndi (/wiki/Mehndi) , using dyes made of henna leaves (/wiki/Henna) (hence also known rather erroneously as "henna tattoo"), is practiced in India (/wiki/India) , especially on brides (/wiki/Bride) . Since the late 1990s, Mehndi has become popular amongst young women (/wiki/Women) in the Western world. Many indigenous peoples (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americas) of Central and South America paint jagua tattoos (/wiki/Jagua_tattoo) , or designs with Genipa americana (/wiki/Genipa_americana) juice on their bodies. Indigenous peoples of South America (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_South_America) traditionally use annatto (/wiki/Annatto) , huito (/wiki/Huito) , or wet charcoal (/wiki/Charcoal) to decorate their faces and bodies. Huito is semi-permanent, and it generally takes weeks for this black dye to fade. [2] (#cite_note-2) Western [ edit ] A painted orca design on a forearm (/wiki/Forearm) Body painting is not always large pieces on fully nude bodies, but can involve smaller pieces on displayed areas of otherwise clothed bodies. There has been a revival of body painting in Western society since the 1960s, in part prompted by the liberalization of social mores (/wiki/Social_mores) regarding nudity (/wiki/Nudity) and often comes in sensationalist (/wiki/Sensationalist) or exhibitionist (/wiki/Exhibitionist) forms. [3] (#cite_note-3) Even today there is a constant debate about the legitimacy of body painting as an art form. The current modern revival could be said to date back to the 1933 World's Fair (/wiki/Century_of_Progress) in Chicago when Max Factor Sr. (/wiki/Max_Factor_Sr.) and his model (/wiki/Model_(person)) Sally Rand (/wiki/Sally_Rand) were arrested for causing a public disturbance when he body-painted her with his new make-up formulated for Hollywood films (/wiki/Cinema_of_the_United_States) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Body art today evolves to the works more directed towards personal mythologies (/wiki/Mythologies) , as Jana Sterbak (/wiki/Jana_Sterbak) , Rebecca Horn (/wiki/Rebecca_Horn) , Michel Platnic (/wiki/Michel_Platnic) , Youri Messen-Jaschin (/wiki/Youri_Messen-Jaschin) or Javier Perez. Body-painted women in a PETA (/wiki/People_for_the_Ethical_Treatment_of_Animals) protest against fur Body painting is sometimes used as a method of gaining attention in political protests, for instance those by PETA (/wiki/People_for_the_Ethical_Treatment_of_Animals) against Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) . Body painting led to a minor alternative art movement in the 1950s and 1960s, which involved covering a model in paint and then having the model touch or roll on a canvas or other medium to transfer the paint. French artist Yves Klein (/wiki/Yves_Klein) is perhaps the most famous for this, with his series of paintings "Anthropometries". The effect produced by this technique creates an image-transfer from the model's body to the medium. This includes all the curves of the model's body (typically female) being reflected in the outline of the image. This technique was not necessarily monotone; multiple colors on different body parts sometimes produced interesting effects. [ citation needed ] Joanne Gair (/wiki/Joanne_Gair) is a body paint artist whose work appeared for the tenth consecutive year in the 2008 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) . She came to prominence with an August 1992 Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) Demi's Birthday Suit (/wiki/Demi%27s_Birthday_Suit) cover of Demi Moore (/wiki/Demi_Moore) . [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Her Disappearing Model (/wiki/Disappearing_Model) was part of an episode of Ripley's Believe It or Not! (/wiki/Ripley%27s_Believe_It_or_Not!) . [7] (#cite_note-JGTAoI-7) Festivals [ edit ] An artist body painting at Fantasy Fest (/wiki/Fantasy_Fest) Body painting is not always limited to humans. Body painting festivals happen annually across the world, bringing together professional body painters and keen amateurs. Body painting can also be seen at some football (/wiki/Football) matches, at rave parties (/wiki/Rave_party) , and at certain festivals (/wiki/Festival) . The World Bodypainting Festival (/wiki/World_Bodypainting_Festival) is a three-day festival which originated in 1998 and which has been held in Klagenfurt (/wiki/Klagenfurt) , Austria since 2017. Participants attend from over fifty countries and the event has more than 20,000 visitors; the associated World Bodypainting Association promotes the art of bodypainting. Body painting festivals that take place in North America include the North American Body Painting Championship, Face and Body Art International Convention in Orlando, Florida (/wiki/Orlando,_Florida) , Bodygras Body Painting Competition in Nanaimo, BC (/wiki/Nanaimo,_BC) and the Face Painting and Body Art Convention in Las Vegas, Nevada (/wiki/Las_Vegas,_Nevada) . Body painting of a male nude model in Amsterdam 2016 Australia also has a number of body painting festivals, most notably the annual Australian Body Art Festival in Eumundi, Queensland (/wiki/Eumundi,_Queensland) [8] (#cite_note-8) and the Australian Body Art Awards. [9] (#cite_note-9) In Italy, the Rabarama Skin Art Festival (/wiki/Rabarama_Skin_Art_Festival) (held every year during the Summer and Autumn, with a tour in the major Italian cities), is a different event focused on the artistic side of body painting, highlighting the emotional impact of the painted body in a live performance [10] (#cite_note-10) more than the decorative and technical aspects of it. This particular form of creative art is known as "Skin Art". [11] (#cite_note-11) Fine art [ edit ] The 1960s supermodel Veruschka (/wiki/Veruschka) has inspired bodypaint artists, after influential images of her appeared in the 1986 book Transfigurations by photographer Holger Trulzsch (/w/index.php?title=Holger_Trulzsch&action=edit&redlink=1) . [12] (#cite_note-12) Other well-known works include Serge Diakonoff (/w/index.php?title=Serge_Diakonoff&action=edit&redlink=1) 's books A Fleur de Peau [ citation needed ] and Diakonoff and Joanne Gair (/wiki/Joanne_Gair) 's Paint a licious . More recently Dutch art photographer Karl Hammer (/wiki/Karl_Hammer) has taken center stage with his combinations of body painting and narrative art ( fantastic realism (/wiki/Fantastic_realism) ). [ citation needed ] Following the already established trend in Western-Europe, body painting has become more widely accepted in the United States since the early 1990s. In 2006 the first gallery dedicated exclusively to fine art body painting was opened in New Orleans by World Bodypainting Festival Champion and Judge, Craig Tracy (/wiki/Craig_Tracy_(artist)) . The Painted Alive Gallery (/w/index.php?title=Painted_Alive_Gallery&action=edit&redlink=1) is on Royal Street in the French Quarter (/wiki/French_Quarter) . [ citation needed ] In 2009, a popular late night talk show Last Call with Carson Daly on NBC network, featured a New York-based artist Danny Setiawan who creates reproductions of masterpieces by famous artists such as Salvador Dalí (/wiki/Salvador_Dal%C3%AD) , Vincent van Gogh (/wiki/Vincent_van_Gogh) , and Gustav Klimt (/wiki/Gustav_Klimt) on human bodies aiming to make fine art appealing for his contemporaries who normally would not consider themselves as art enthusiasts. [ citation needed ] Since 2005 the Australian visual artist Emma Hack (/wiki/Emma_Hack) has been creating photographs of painted naked human bodies that visually merge with a patterned background wall inspired by the wallpaper designs of Florence Broadhurst (/wiki/Florence_Broadhurst) . Hack is best known for the Gotye (/wiki/Gotye) music video for the song " Somebody That I Used to Know (/wiki/Somebody_That_I_Used_to_Know) ", which uses stop-motion (/wiki/Stop-motion) animation body painting and has received over 800 million views on YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Hack now creates her own canvas backgrounds and her work is often featured with live birds, representing nature. Hack's artworks are exhibited worldwide. Michel Platnic (/wiki/Michel_Platnic) is a French–Israeli contemporary (/wiki/Contemporary_art) visual artist. He is known for his "living paintings". He uses multiple mediums including photography, video, performance body-painting and painting . Platnic builds three-dimensional cinema sets that are a backdrop for his video and photography works and then he paints directly on the body of the living models he places within the sets. Using this technique, Platnic brought to life several scenes of paintings made famous by artists Francis Bacon (/wiki/Francis_Bacon_(artist)) , Egon Schiele (/wiki/Egon_Schiele) , David Hockney (/wiki/David_Hockney) and Lucian Freud (/wiki/Lucian_Freud) and placed them in a different context. [14] (#cite_note-14) Body painting artwork from the series Sharks Are People Too! by Paul Roustan [15] (#cite_note-15) Los Angeles artist, Paul Roustan (/wiki/Paul_Roustan) , is known for his work in body painting and photography which spans both the fine art and commercial worlds. His body painting has garnered numerous awards, including winner of the North American Body Paint Championships. [16] (#cite_note-16) Trina Merry (/wiki/Trina_Merry) is a body painter known for camouflaging models into settings, backgrounds and, in her "Lust of Currency" series, famous paintings. Merry's collection was exhibited during Miami Art Basel (/wiki/Art_Basel) in 2017 [17] (#cite_note-17) and at the Superfine! New York art fair in May 2018. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) Peruvian artist Cecilia Paredes (/wiki/Cecilia_Paredes) is known for her style of painting her own body to camouflage herself against complex floral backgrounds and natural landscapes. [20] (#cite_note-20) In the commercial arena [ edit ] Sudhir Kumar Chaudhary (/wiki/Sudhir_Kumar_Chaudhary) , a fan of the Indian cricket team, travels to all Indian home games with his body painted as the Indian flag (/wiki/Indian_flag) , along with the number of his idol Sachin Tendulkar (/wiki/Sachin_Tendulkar) [21] (#cite_note-21) Many artists work professionally as body painters for television commercials, such as the Natrel Plus campaign featuring models camouflaged as trees. Stills advertising also used body painting with hundreds of body painting looks on the pages of the world's magazines every year. Body painters also work frequently in the film arena especially in science fiction with an increasing number of elaborate alien creations being body painted. The Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) , published annually, has frequently featured a section of models that were body painted, attired in renditions of swimsuits or sports jerseys. Also Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) magazine has frequently made use of body painted models. In the 2005 Playmates at Play at the Playboy Mansion calendar, all Playmates (/wiki/Playboy_Playmate) appeared in the calendar wearing bikinis, but Playmates Karen McDougal (/wiki/Karen_McDougal) and Hiromi Oshima (/wiki/Hiromi_Oshima) actually appeared in painted-on bikinis for their respective months. The success of body painting has led to many notable international competitions and a specific trade magazine ( Illusion Magazine ) [22] (#cite_note-22) for this industry, showcasing work around the world. Face painting [ edit ] See also: History of cosmetics (/wiki/History_of_cosmetics) This section needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Body_painting) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. ( December 2012 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Moche ceramic vessel at the Larco Museum (/wiki/Larco_Museum) in Lima (/wiki/Lima) , depicting a man, possibly a warrior, with face painting A child wearing face paint Marcus Stewart with his face painted as he acts in Oresteia (/wiki/Oresteia) by Aeschylus (/wiki/Aeschylus) , adapted by Ryan Castalia for Stairwell Theater, 2019 Face painting is the artistic application of nontoxic paint to a person's face. The practice dates from Paleolithic (/wiki/Paleolithic) times and has been used for ritual purposes, such as coming-of-age (/wiki/Coming-of-age) ceremonies and funeral rites, as well as for hunting. Materials such as clay, chalk or henna have been used, typically mixed with pigments extracted from leaves, fruits or berries and sometimes with oils or fats. [23] (#cite_note-23) Many peoples around the world practice face painting in modern times. This includes indigenous peoples in places such as Australia, Papua New Guinea, Polynesia and Melanesia. Some tribes in Sub-Saharan Africa (/wiki/Sub-Saharan_Africa) use the technique during rituals and festivals, and many of the indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest Coast (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Pacific_Northwest_Coast) of North America now use it for ceremonies, having previously also used it for hunting and warfare. In India it is used in folk dances and temple festivals, such as in Kathakali (/wiki/Kathakali) performances, and Mehndi (/wiki/Mehndi) designs are used at weddings. It is also used by Japanese Geisha (/wiki/Geisha) and Chinese opera (/wiki/Chinese_opera) singers. [24] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDeMello2012107–108-24) Women in Madagascar (/wiki/Madagascar) paint their faces with designs featuring stars, flowers and leaves using contrasting yellow and white wood paste called masonjoany (/wiki/Masonjoany) . [25] (#cite_note-25) In some forms of Western folk dance (/wiki/Folk_dance) , such as Border Morris (/wiki/Border_Morris) , the faces of the dancers are painted with a black pigment (/wiki/Pigment) in a tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) . In the 18th century cosmetic (/wiki/Cosmetics) face painting became popular with men and women of the aristocracy and the nouveau riche (/wiki/Nouveau_riche) , [26] (#cite_note-26) but it died out in Western culture (/wiki/Western_culture) after the fall of the French aristocracy. During the 19th century blackface (/wiki/Blackface) theatrical makeup gained popularity when it was used by non-black performers to represent black people (/wiki/Black_people) , typically in a minstrel show. [27] (#cite_note-27) Its use ended in the United States with the Civil Rights Movement (/wiki/Civil_Rights_Movement) of the 1960s. [28] (#cite_note-28) At about the same time the hippie (/wiki/Hippie) movement adopted face painting, [29] (#cite_note-29) and it was common for young people to decorate their cheeks with flowers or peace symbols (/wiki/Peace_symbols) at anti-war demonstrations. In contemporary Western culture face painting has become an art form, with artists displaying their work at festivals and in competitions and magazines. Other western users include actors and clowns, and it continues to be used as a form of camouflage amongst hunters and the military. It is also found at entertainments for children and sports events. [30] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDeMello2012109-30) For several decades it has been a common entertainment at county fairs (/wiki/Fair) , large open-air markets (/wiki/Market_(place)) (especially in Europe and the Americas), and other locations that attract children and adolescents. Face painting is very popular among children at theme parks (/wiki/Theme_park) , parties and festivals (/wiki/Festival) throughout the Western world. [ citation needed ] Though the majority of face painting is geared towards children, many teenagers and adults enjoy being painted for special events, such as sports events (to give support to their team or country) or charity fund raisers. [ citation needed ] In the military [ edit ] Main article: Military camouflage (/wiki/Military_camouflage) A soldier applies face paints as military camouflage (/wiki/Military_camouflage) . It is common in armies all over the world for soldiers in combat to paint their faces and other exposed body parts (hands, for example) in natural colors such as green, tan, and loam (/wiki/Loam) for camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) purposes. In various South American armies, it is a tradition to use face paint on parade in respect to the indigenous tribes. [31] (#cite_note-31) Temporary tattoos [ edit ] As well as paint, temporary tattoos can be used to decorate the body. "Glitter tattoos" are made by applying a clear, cosmetic-grade (/wiki/Cosmetic-grade) glue (either freehand or through a stencil) on the skin and then coating it with cosmetic-grade glitter (/wiki/Glitter) . They can last up to a week depending on the model's body chemistry. Foil metallic temporary tattoos are a variation of decal-style temporary tattoos, printed using foil stamping technique instead of ink. On the front side, the foil design is printed as a mirror image in order to be viewed in the right direction once it is applied to the skin. Each metallic tattoo is protected by a transparent protective film. Body paints [ edit ] Fluorescent body paint will show up as bright and colourful under ultraviolet light (/wiki/Ultraviolet_light) . Body painting with fluorescent (/wiki/Fluorescent) paint Modern water-based face and body paints are made according to stringent guidelines, meaning these are non- toxic (/wiki/Toxic) , usually non- allergenic (/wiki/Allergenic) , and can easily be washed away. Temporary staining may develop after use, but it will fade after normal washing. These are either applied with hands, paint brush, and synthetic sponges or natural sea sponge (/wiki/Sea_sponge) , or alternatively with an airbrush (/wiki/Airbrush) . Contrary to the popular myth (/wiki/List_of_MythBusters_special_episodes#Pilot_3_—_"Larry's_Lawn_Chair_Balloon,_Poppy_Seed_Drug_Test,_Goldfinger") perpetuated by the James Bond (/wiki/James_Bond) film Goldfinger (/wiki/Goldfinger_(film)) , a person is not asphyxiated (/wiki/Asphyxia) if their whole body is painted. [32] (#cite_note-32) Liquid latex (/wiki/Liquid_latex) may also be used as body paint. Aside the risk of contact allergy (/wiki/Latex_allergy) , wearing latex for a prolonged period may cause heat stroke (/wiki/Heat_stroke) by inhibiting perspiration (/wiki/Perspiration) and care should be taken to avoid the painful removal of hair when the latex is pulled off. The same precautions that apply to cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) should be observed. If the skin shows any sign of allergy (/wiki/Allergy) from a paint, its use should immediately be ceased. Moreover, it should not be applied to damaged (/wiki/Wound) , inflamed or sensitive skin. If possible, a test for allergic reaction should be performed before use. Special care should be paid to the list of ingredients, as certain dyes are not approved by the US FDA (/wiki/Food_and_Drug_Administration) for use around the eye area—generally those associated with certain reddish colorants, as CI 15850 or CI 15985 (/wiki/CI_15985) —or on lips, generally blue, purple or some greens containing CI 77007 (/wiki/CI_77007) . [33] (#cite_note-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) More stringent regulations are in place in California regarding the amount of permissible lead (/wiki/Lead) on cosmetic additives, as part of Proposition 65 (/wiki/Proposition_65) . [35] (#cite_note-35) In the European Union, all colorants listed under a CI (/wiki/Colour_Index_International) number are allowed for use on all areas. Any paints or products which have not been formulated for use on the body should never be used for body or face painting, as these can result in serious allergic reactions. As for Mehndi (/wiki/Mehndi) , natural brown henna dyes are safe to use when mixed with ingredients such as lemon juice. Another option is Jagua, a dark indigo plant-based dye that is safe to use on the skin and is approved for cosmetic use in the EU. Body marbling [ edit ] Main article: Body marbling (/wiki/Body_marbling) A hand marbled (/wiki/Body_marbling) by dipping into floating non-toxic paint Hands and faces can be marbled temporarily for events such as festivals, using a painting process similar to traditional paper marbling (/wiki/Paper_marbling) , in which paint is floated on water and transferred to a person's skin. Unlike the traditional oil-based technique for paper, neon or ultraviolet reactive colours are typically used, and the paint is water-based and non-toxic. [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) Hand art [ edit ] "Hand art" is the application of make-up (/wiki/Make-up) or paint to a hand to make it appear like an animal or other object. Some hand artists, like Guido Daniele (/wiki/Guido_Daniele) , produce images that are trompe-l'œil (/wiki/Trompe-l%27%C5%93il) representations of wild animals painted on people's hands. Hand artists work closely with hand models (/wiki/Hand_model) . Hand models can be booked through specialist acting and modeling agencies usually advertising under "body part model" or "hands and feet models". Body glitter [ edit ] The application of glitter and reflective ornaments to a woman's breasts (/wiki/Breasts) , often in the shape of a bikini top (/wiki/Bikini_top) or crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) and sometimes alongside nipple tassels (/wiki/Nipple_tassel) , is known as glitter boobs. Like body paint, this decoration is popular with festivalgoers. [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) Buttocks are also sometimes decorated in a similar manner, [40] (#cite_note-40) and the adornment of the a woman's pubic area is known as a vajazzle (/wiki/Vajazzle) . Media [ edit ] Body painting features in various media. The popular TV variety show, Rowan & Martin's Laugh-In (/wiki/Rowan_%26_Martin%27s_Laugh-In) , featured bodies painted with comedic phrases and jokes during transitions. The Pillow Book (/wiki/The_Pillow_Book_(film)) , a 1996 film by Peter Greenaway (/wiki/Peter_Greenaway) , is centred on body painting. The 1990 American (/wiki/United_States) film Where the Heart Is (/wiki/Where_the_Heart_Is_(1990_film)) featured several examples of models who were painted to blend into elaborate backdrops as trompe-l'œil (/wiki/Trompe-l%27%C5%93il) . Skin Wars (/wiki/Skin_Wars) is a body painting reality competition hosted by Rebecca Romijn (/wiki/Rebecca_Romijn) that premiered on Game Show Network (/wiki/Game_Show_Network) on August 6, 2014. See also [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Body painting (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Body_painting) and Facepainting (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Facepainting) . Human sexuality portal (/wiki/Portal:Human_sexuality) Visual arts portal (/wiki/Portal:Visual_arts) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Body art (/wiki/Body_art) Make up (/wiki/Make_up) Mehndi (/wiki/Mehndi) (so-called henna (/wiki/Henna) tattoos) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) " (https://phys.org/news/2019-01-zebra-tribal-bodypaint-fold.html) 'Zebra' tribal bodypaint cuts fly bites 10-fold: study" (https://phys.org/news/2019-01-zebra-tribal-bodypaint-fold.html) . phys.org . 16 January 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Montañez R, Dinhora (2013). Diario del Huila (ed.). Body painting, el arte de la poesía corporal: Sobre el trabajo de Mao Mix R . Neiva. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Body Painting: History, Origins, Types, Methods, Festivals: Tribal Art" (http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/painting/body.htm) . Visual-arts-cork.com . Retrieved 2010-09-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Basten, Fred E. (2012). Max Factor: The Man Who Changed the Faces of the World . New York: Arcade Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-61145-135-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Make-Up Illusion by Joanne Gair" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071221204220/http://www.photoimpactonline.com/gair.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.photoimpactonline.com/gair.htm) on 2007-12-21 . Retrieved 2008-02-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Body Painting: Masterpieces by Joanne Gair" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080205095055/http://mocoloco.com/art/archives/004340.php) . Art MOCO: The Modern and Contemporary Art Blog . 2007-07-22. Archived from the original (http://mocoloco.com/art/archives/004340.php) on 2008-02-05 . Retrieved 2008-02-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-JGTAoI_7-0) "Joanne Gair: The Art of Illusion" (http://www.joannegair.com/about.htm) . Retrieved 2009-04-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Australian Body Art Festival" (http://australianbodyart.com.au/) . Australian Body Art Festival . Retrieved 26 February 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Australian Body Art Awards" (http://www.australianbodyartawards.com.au/) . Australian Body Art Awards . Retrieved 26 February 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Kryolan Italia (4 October 2016). "Finale 2016 del Rabarama Skin Art Festival, video TG" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlLGBeKZbj4&t=17s) . Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211118/SlLGBeKZbj4) from the original on 2021-11-18 . Retrieved 22 January 2017 – via YouTube. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Rabarama Skin Art: body painting d'arte festival in Italia" (https://web.archive.org/web/20161023200659/http://www.rabaramaskinartfestival.com/skin-art-manifesto) . rabaramaskinartfestival.com . Archived from the original (http://www.rabaramaskinartfestival.com/skin-art-manifesto) on 23 October 2016 . Retrieved 22 January 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) McIntyre, Catherine (2014). "Influences" (https://books.google.com/books?id=L5mnAgAAQBAJ&pg=PT46) . Visual Alchemy: The Fine Art of Digital Montage . Focal Press. p. 46. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781135046149 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Cuthbertson, Debbie (17 January 2014). "Adelaide artist Emma Hack breathes new life into Florence Broadhurst archive" (http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/art-and-design/adelaide-artist-emma-hack-breathes-new-life-into-florence-broadhurst-archive-20140116-30xlt.html) . The Sydney Morning Herald. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Marican, Shireen (3 February 2016). "THE PIONEER: MICHEL PLATNIC, BACONESQUE AND BLURRING BOUNDARIES" (https://www.artandonly.com/the-pioneer-michel-platnic-baconesque-and-blurring-boundaries/) . Art and Only - The Platform for Collectors . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201117011822/https://www.artandonly.com/the-pioneer-michel-platnic-baconesque-and-blurring-boundaries/) from the original on 2020-11-17. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Sliff, Morgan (30 December 2016). "LA Artist Uses Nude Body Art to Say 'Sharks Are People Too' (http://www.theinertia.com/music-art/la-artist-uses-nude-body-art-to-say-sharks-are-people-too/) " (http://www.theinertia.com/music-art/la-artist-uses-nude-body-art-to-say-sharks-are-people-too/) . The Inertia. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Body Paint by Paul Roustan" (https://www.dodho.com/body-paint-by-paul-roustan/) . Dodho Magazine. 1 January 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-17) "New Platform Romio, Painter Trina Merry, Violinist Charlie Siem And Opera Star Iestyn Davies Among Clients Featured In 360bespoke's Seasonal Media Report" (http://markets.businessinsider.com/news/stocks/new-platform-romio-painter-trina-merry-violinist-charlie-siem-and-opera-star-iestyn-davies-among-clients-featured-in-360bespoke-s-seasonal-media-report-1014567191) . Markets Insider (Press release). PR Newswire. 30 January 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-18) Raquel Laneri (3 May 2018). "Artist paints naked models with famous masterpieces" (https://nypost.com/2018/05/03/artist-paints-naked-models-with-famous-masterpieces) . New York Post . Retrieved 26 June 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Melania Hidalgo (2 May 2018). "An Art Fair Where the Pieces Come to Life" (https://www.thecut.com/2018/05/the-superfine-art-fair-opens-in-new-york-today.html) . The Cut . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Zeveloff, Julie (2012-02-03). "Watch As The Amazing Artist Cecilia Paredes Disappears Into Wallpaper" (http://www.businessinsider.com/cecilia-paredes-wallpaper-art--2012-2) . Business Insider . Retrieved 2018-04-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Sachin is this fan's match ticket" (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/1540753.cms) . The Times of India . 31 January 2007. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100227055204/http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/1540753.cms) from the original on 27 February 2010 . Retrieved 18 February 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Illusion Magazine" (https://illusionmagazine.co.uk/illusion-magazine) . illusionmagazine.co.uk . Retrieved 30 November 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) DeMello, Margo (2012). Faces Around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia of the Human Face . ABC-CLIO. p. 106. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781598846171 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDeMello2012107–108_24-0) DeMello (2012) (#CITEREFDeMello2012) , p. 107–108. ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Painting on Tradition in Madagascar" (https://www.peacecorps.gov/madagascar/stories/painting-tradition-madagascar/) . www.peacecorps.gov . Retrieved 2023-07-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Emma Chambers. "Makeup And Lead Poisoning In The 18th Century" (http://www.ucl.ac.uk/museums-static/objectretrieval/node/111) . University College London . Retrieved 14 November 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Mahar, William John (1999). Behind the Burnt Cork Mask: Early Blackface Minstrelsy and Antebellum American Popular Culture . University of Illinois Press. p. 9 (https://archive.org/details/behindburntcorkm00will/page/9) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-252-06696-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Sweet, Frank W. (2000). A History of the Minstrel Show . Boxes & Arrows. p. 25. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780939479214 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Reinhartz, Adele, ed. (2012). Bible and Cinema: Fifty Key Films . Routledge. p. 197. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781136183997 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDeMello2012109_30-0) DeMello (2012) (#CITEREFDeMello2012) , p. 109. ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Brigada de Fusileros Paracaidistas Mexicanos" (http://www.taringa.net/comunidades/naiem/7850065/Brigada-de-Fusileros-Paracaidistas-Mexicanos.html) . taringa.net (in Spanish). 8 September 2013 . Retrieved 30 November 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Metin Tolan - Geschüttelt, nicht gerührt, Piper Verlag ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Color Additive Status List" (https://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditiveInventories/UCM106626) . The Food and Drug Administration. December 2009 . Retrieved 3 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Summary of Color Additives for Use in United States in Foods, Drugs, Cosmetics, and Medical Devices" (https://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditiveInventories/ucm115641.htm#table3A) . The Food and Drug Administration. March 2007 . Retrieved 3 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "California Proposition 65 Update: Lead Limits for Cosmetic Products" (http://www.hktdc.com/info/mi/a/psls/en/1X05YAZ7/1/Product-Safety-Laws-And-Standards/California-Proposition-65-Update-Lead-Limits-For-Cosmetic-Products.htm) . Hong Kong Trade Development Council. 18 June 2009 . Retrieved 3 August 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Valenti, Lauren (9 September 2016). "The New "Body Marbling" Trend Is Must-See Stuff, People" (http://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/news/a22529/body-marbling-trend/) . Marie Claire. ^ (#cite_ref-37) Scott, Ellen (9 September 2016). "Body Marbling Is the New Festival Trend You're Going to Be Obsessed with" (http://metro.co.uk/2016/09/09/body-marbling-is-the-new-festival-trend-youre-going-to-be-obsessed-with-6119406/) . Metro . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Dowling, Amber. "Glitter boobs are a thing now, you've been warned" (https://www.theloop.ca/glitter-boobs-are-a-thing-now-youve-been-warned/) . the loop . Retrieved 20 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "10 Reasons Why 'Glitter Boobs' Are Summer's Hottest Music Festival Trend" (https://www.maxim.com/women/glitter-tits-instagram-2017-6) . Maxim . Retrieved 20 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Tierney, Allison. "People Can't Stop Taking Photos of Their Glittery Butts" (https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/vbqdv8/people-cant-stop-taking-photos-of-their-glittery-butts) . Vice . Retrieved 20 June 2020 . External links [ edit ] Ultimate Face Painting Tutorial for Beginners: Your step-by-step guide for learning how to face paint (https://facebodyart.com/face-painting-for-beginners/) World Bodypainting Festival website (https://bodypainting-festival.com/en/) Qu’est-ce que le body painting? 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One of the traditional Vietnamese clothing This article contains chữ Nôm (/wiki/Ch%E1%BB%AF_N%C3%B4m) text. Without proper rendering support (/wiki/Help:Multilingual_support_(East_Asian)) , you may see question marks, boxes, or other symbols (/wiki/Specials_(Unicode_block)#Replacement_character) instead of chữ Nôm (/wiki/Ch%E1%BB%AF_N%C3%B4m) . Vietnamese students wearing Áo dài , 2013 A woman wearing white Áo dài , May 2021 Áo dài ( English: / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ aʊ ˈ d aɪ , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ ɔː ˈ d aɪ , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ aʊ ˈ z aɪ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ; Vietnamese: [ʔaːw˧˦ (/wiki/Help:IPA/Vietnamese) zaːj˨˩] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Vietnamese) ( North (/wiki/Hanoi) ) , [ʔaːw˦˥ (/wiki/Help:IPA/Vietnamese) jaːj˨˩] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Vietnamese) ( South (/wiki/Ho_Chi_Minh_City) ) ) [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) is a modernized Vietnamese national garment (/wiki/Folk_costume) consisting of a long split tunic (/wiki/Tunic) worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear (/wiki/Formal_wear) for both men and women. Áo translates as shirt [3] (#cite_note-AmerHerit-3) and dài means "long". [4] (#cite_note-Tuttle-4) The term can also be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as nhật bình . The predecessor of the áo dài was derived by the Nguyễn lords (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_lords) in Phú Xuân (/wiki/Ph%C3%BA_Xu%C3%A2n) during 18th century. This outfit was derived from the áo ngũ thân (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n&action=edit&redlink=1) , a five-piece dress commonly worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The áo dài was later made to be form-fitting which was influenced by the French, Nguyễn Cát Tường and other Hanoi (/wiki/Hanoi) artists redesigned the áo dài as a modern dress in the 1920s and 1930s. [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (/w/index.php?title=T%E1%BB%B1_L%E1%BB%B1c_v%C4%83n_%C4%91o%C3%A0n&action=edit&redlink=1) (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon (/wiki/Saigon) designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women (/wiki/Women_in_Vietnam) . [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) The áo dài dress for women was extremely popular in South Vietnam (/wiki/South_Vietnam) in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết (/wiki/T%E1%BA%BFt) and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an áo gấm (/wiki/%C3%81o_g%E1%BA%A5m) ( brocade (/wiki/Brocade) robe (/wiki/Robe) ), a version of the áo dài made of very thick fabric and with sewed symbols. The áo dài dress has traditionally been marketed with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants being popular in Vietnam and with overseas Vietnamese (/wiki/Overseas_Vietnamese) . [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTELieu2000127–151-6) However, the men version of áo dài or modified áo dài are also worn during weddings or formal occasions. The áo dài is one of the few Vietnamese words that appear in English-language dictionaries. [a] (#cite_note-7) The áo dài can be paired with the nón lá (/wiki/N%C3%B3n_l%C3%A1) or the khăn vấn (/wiki/Kh%C4%83n_v%E1%BA%A5n) . Parts of dress [ edit ] Diagram showing the parts of an ao dai Tà sau : back flap Nút bấm thân áo : hooks used as fasteners and holes Ống tay : sleeve Đường bên : inside seam Nút móc kết thúc : main hook and hole Tà trước : front flap Khuy cổ : collar button Cổ áo : collar Đường may : seam Kích (eo) : waist Origin [ edit ] Switch to trousers (18th century) [ edit ] See also: Shanku (/wiki/Shanku) and Ku (Chinese trousers) (/wiki/Ku_(trousers)) Portrait of Tôn Thất Hiệp (1653–1675). He is dressed in a cross-collared robe ( áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) ) which was commonly worn by all social castes of Vietnam before the 19th century For centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top ( yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) ) underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt ( váy ). [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200389-8) Aristocrats, on the other hand, favored a cross-collared robe called áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) . [8] (#cite_note-THUYVU-9) [9] (#cite_note-TVAN-10) When the Ming dynasty (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) occupied Đại Việt (/wiki/%C4%90%E1%BA%A1i_Vi%E1%BB%87t) during the Fourth Era of Northern Domination (/wiki/Fourth_Era_of_Northern_Domination) in 1407, it forced the women to wear Chinese-style pants. The following Lê dynasty (/wiki/L%C3%AA_dynasty) also criticized women for violating Neo-Confucian dress norms, but only enforced the dress code haphazardly, so skirts and halter tops remained the norm. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Vietnam was divided into northern and southern realms, with the Nguyễn lords (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_lords) ruling the south. [10] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTELeshkowich200561-11) To distinguish the southern people from the northerners, in 1744, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_Ph%C3%BAc_Kho%C3%A1t) of Huế (/wiki/Hu%E1%BA%BF) decreed that both men and women at his court wear trousers and a gown with buttons down the front. [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) [b] (#cite_note-12) The members of the southern court were thus distinguished from the courtiers of the Trịnh Lords (/wiki/Tr%E1%BB%8Bnh_Lords) in Hanoi, who wore áo giao lĩnh with long skirts. [8] (#cite_note-THUYVU-9) According to Lê Quý Đôn's record in the book "Phủ Biên Tạp Lục" (recording most of the important information about the economy and society of Đàng Trong for nearly 200 years), the áo dài (or rather, the forerunner of the áo dài) created by Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát based on Chinese Ming Dynasty costumes, by how to learn the method of making costumes in the book "Sāncái Túhuì" as the standard. [11] (#cite_note-) 19th century [ edit ] The áo ngũ thân (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n&action=edit&redlink=1) (five part dress) had two flaps sewn together in the back, two flaps sewn together in the front, and a "baby flap" hidden underneath the main front flap. The gown appeared to have two-flaps with slits on both sides, features preserved in the later áo dài. Compared to a modern áo dài, the front and back flaps were much broader and the fit looser and much shorter. It had a high collar and was buttoned in the same fashion as a modern áo dài. Women could wear the dress with the top few buttons undone, revealing a glimpse of their yếm underneath. Vietnamese garments throughout the centuries Trần dynasty (/wiki/Tr%E1%BA%A7n_dynasty) robes as depicted in a section of a 14th-century scroll. Left: Illustration of a Vietnamese man (left) wearing áo viên lĩnh (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_vi%C3%AAn_l%C4%A9nh&action=edit&redlink=1) (the predecessor of áo dài ) in Sancai Tuhui (/wiki/Sancai_Tuhui) , early 17th century during the Lê dynasty. "Giảng học đồ" (Teaching), 18th century, Hanoi museum of National History. Scholars and students wear áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) (cross-collared gowns) - unlike the buttoned áo dài. Two women wear áo ngũ thân (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n&action=edit&redlink=1) , the predecessor of the áo dài worn in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries depicted on the postcard. Trần Anh Tông wearing a "áo viên lĩnh" and outside a "áo giao lĩnh" in the calligraphy painting Trúc Lâm đại sĩ xuất sơn đồ (The painting of Trúc Lâm the Great Master),14th century. A woman wearing a nón lá with áo dài. Woman wears an áo dài for Tết. 20th century [ edit ] In the 1930s, áo dài was considered a progressive innovation compared to the traditional áo ngũ thân (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n&action=edit&redlink=1) Modernization of style [ edit ] The four great beauties of Hanoi in Le Mur style áo dài, 1938 Huế (/wiki/Hu%E1%BA%BF) 's Đồng Khánh Girl's High School, which opened in 1917, was widely praised for the áo dài uniform worn by its students. [12] (#cite_note-kauffner-14) The first modernized áo dài appeared at a Paris fashion show in 1921. In 1930, Hanoi artist Cát Tường, also known as Le Mur, designed a dress inspired by the áo ngũ thân (/w/index.php?title=%C3%81o_ng%C5%A9_th%C3%A2n&action=edit&redlink=1) and by Paris fashions. It reached to the floor and fit the curves of the body by using darts and a nipped-in waist. [13] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200391-15) When fabric became inexpensive, the rationale for multiple layers and thick flaps disappeared. Modern textile manufacture allows for wider panels, eliminating the need to sew narrow panels together. The áo dài Le Mur , or "trendy" ao dai, created a sensation when model Nguyễn Thị Hậu wore it for a feature published by the newspaper Today in January 1935. [14] (#cite_note-ninh-16) The style was promoted by the artists of Tự Lực văn đoàn (/w/index.php?title=T%E1%BB%B1_L%E1%BB%B1c_v%C4%83n_%C4%91o%C3%A0n&action=edit&redlink=1) ("Self-Reliant Literary Group") as a national costume for the modern era. [15] (#cite_note-aodai4-17) The painter Lê Phô introduced several popular styles of ao dai beginning in 1934. Such Westernized garments temporarily disappeared during World War II (1939–45). In the 1950s, Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) designers tightened the fit of the áo dài to create the version commonly seen today. [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) Trần Kim of Thiết Lập Tailors and Dũng of Dũng Tailors created a dress with raglan sleeves (/wiki/Raglan_sleeve) and a diagonal seam that runs from the collar to the underarm. [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) Madame Nhu (/wiki/Madame_Nhu) , first lady of South Vietnam, popularized a collarless version beginning in 1958. The áo dài was most popular from 1960 to 1975. [16] (#cite_note-Elmore-18) A brightly colored áo dài hippy was introduced in 1968. [17] (#cite_note-19) The áo dài mini , a version designed for practical use and convenience, had slits that extended above the waist and panels that reached only to the knee. [13] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200391-15) Communist period [ edit ] The áo dài has always been more common in the South than in the North. The communists, who gained power in the North in 1954 and in the South in 1975, had conflicted feelings about the áo dài. They praised it as a national costume and one was worn to the Paris Peace Conference (/wiki/Paris_Peace_Accords) (1969–73) by Viet Cong (/wiki/Vietcong) negotiator Nguyễn Thị Bình (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_Th%E1%BB%8B_B%C3%ACnh) . [18] (#cite_note-Overland-20) Yet Westernized versions of the dress and those associated with "decadent" Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) of the 1960s and early 1970s were condemned. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200392-21) Economic crisis, famine, and war with Cambodia combined to make the 1980s a fashion low point. [20] (#cite_note-Valverde-22) The áo dài was rarely worn except at weddings and other formal occasions, with the older, looser-fitting style preferred. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200392-21) Overseas Vietnamese, meanwhile, kept tradition alive with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants ( Hoa Hậu Áo Dài ), the most notable one held annually in Long Beach, California (/wiki/Long_Beach,_California) . [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) The áo dài experienced a revival beginning in late 1980s, when state enterprise and schools began adopting the dress as a uniform again. [5] (#cite_note-Ellis-5) In 1989, 16,000 Vietnamese attended a Miss Ao Dai Beauty Contest held in Ho Chi Minh City. [21] (#cite_note-23) When the Miss International Pageant in Tokyo gave its "Best National Costume" award to an áo dài-clad Trường Quỳnh Mai in 1995, Thời Trang Trẻ (New Fashion Magazine) claimed that Vietnam's "national soul" was "once again honored". [22] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200379-24) An "áo dài craze" followed that lasted for several years and led to wider use of the dress as a school uniform. [23] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200397-25) Present day [ edit ] A boy wearing áo dài No longer deemed politically controversial, áo dài fashion design is supported by the Vietnamese government. [20] (#cite_note-Valverde-22) It is often called áo dài Việt Nam to link it to patriotic feelings. Designer Le Si Hoang is a celebrity in Vietnam and his shop in Ho Chi Minh City is the place to visit for those who admire the dress. [20] (#cite_note-Valverde-22) In Hanoi, tourists get fitted with áo dài on Luong Van Can Street. [24] (#cite_note-26) The elegant city of Huế (/wiki/Hu%E1%BA%BF) in the central region is known for its áo dài, nón lá ( lit. ' traditional leaf hat ' ), and well-dressed women. The áo dài is now a standard for weddings, for celebrating Tết and for other formal occasions. It is the required uniform for female teachers (mostly from high school to below) and female students in common high schools in the South; there is no requirement for color or pattern for teachers while students use plain white or with some small patterns like flowers for use as school uniforms (/wiki/School_uniform) . Companies often require their female staff to wear uniforms that include the áo dài, so flight attendants (/wiki/Flight_attendant) , receptionists (/wiki/Receptionist) , bank female staff, restaurant staff, and hotel workers in Vietnam may be seen wearing it. The most popular style of áo dài fits tightly around the wearer's upper torso, emphasizing her bust and curves. Although the dress covers the entire body, it is thought to be provocative, especially when made of thin fabric. "The áo dài covers everything, but hides nothing", according to one saying. [18] (#cite_note-Overland-20) The dress must be individually fitted and usually requires several weeks for a tailor to complete. An ao dai costs about $200 in the United States and about $40 in Vietnam. [25] (#cite_note-Bhudsabourg-27) "Symbolically, the áo dài invokes nostalgia and timelessness associated with a gendered image of the homeland for which many Vietnamese people throughout the diaspora yearn," wrote Nhi T. Lieu, an assistant professor at the University of Texas at Austin. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTELieu2000127–151-6) The difficulties of working while wearing an ao dai link the dress to frailty and innocence, she wrote. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTELieu2000127–151-6) Vietnamese writers who favor the use of the áo dài as a school uniform cite the inconvenience of wearing it as an advantage, a way of teaching students feminine behavior such as modesty, caution, and a refined manner. [23] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200397-25) The áo dài is featured in an array of Asian-themed or related movies. In Good Morning, Vietnam (/wiki/Good_Morning,_Vietnam) (1987), Robin Williams (/wiki/Robin_Williams) 's character is wowed by áo dài-clad women when he first arrives in Ho Chi Minh City. The 1992 films Indochine (/wiki/Indochine_(film)) and The Lover (/wiki/The_Lover_(1992_film)) inspired several international fashion houses to design áo dài collections, [26] (#cite_note-Wakefield-28) including Prada (/wiki/Prada) 's SS08 collection and a Georgio Armani (/wiki/Georgio_Armani) collection. In the Vietnamese film (/wiki/Cinema_of_Vietnam) The White Silk Dress (/wiki/The_White_Silk_Dress) (2007), an áo dài is the sole legacy that the mother of a poverty-stricken family has to pass on to her daughters. [27] (#cite_note-29) The Hanoi City Complex, a 65-story building now under construction, will have an áo dài-inspired design. [28] (#cite_note-30) Vietnamese designers created áo dài for the contestants in the Miss Universe (/wiki/Miss_Universe) beauty contest, which was held July 2008 in Nha Trang (/wiki/Nha_Trang) , Vietnam. [29] (#cite_note-31) The most prominent annual Ao Dai Festival outside of Vietnam is held each year in San Jose, California, a city that is home to a large Vietnamese American community. [30] (#cite_note-32) This event features an international array of designer áo dài under the direction of festival founder, Jenny Do. In recent years, a shorter, more modern version of the áo dài, known as the áo dài cách tân , is often worn by the younger generation. This modern áo dài has a shorter front and back flap, hitting just below the knees. Criticism [ edit ] Áo dài is the traditional attire of Vietnam, considered a symbol of the graceful and elegant beauty of Vietnamese women. [31] (#cite_note-33) [32] (#cite_note-34) [33] (#cite_note-35) However, besides the praises, áo dài also cannot escape criticism. [34] (#cite_note-36) [35] (#cite_note-37) One of the most common criticisms of áo dài is the excessive renovation. [36] (#cite_note-38) [37] (#cite_note-39) In recent years, áo dài renovation has become very popular, with a variety of styles, materials, and colors. However, some people believe that excessive renovation has eroded the traditional beauty of áo dài . [38] (#cite_note-40) [39] (#cite_note-41) They believe that áo dài should keep its traditional style, material, and color, to enhance the gentle and elegant beauty of Vietnamese women (/wiki/Women_in_Vietnam) . [40] (#cite_note-42) [41] (#cite_note-43) Another criticism of áo dài is the wearing of áo dài that is offensive. [42] (#cite_note-44) [43] (#cite_note-45) [44] (#cite_note-46) In recent years, there have been no shortage of cases of celebrities being criticized for wearing offensive áo dài . [45] (#cite_note-47) [46] (#cite_note-48) [47] (#cite_note-49) They were accused of using áo dài to show off their bodies, causing offense to the viewer. [48] (#cite_note-50) [49] (#cite_note-51) In addition, áo dài is also criticized as being incompatible with modern life. [50] (#cite_note-52) [51] (#cite_note-53) Áo dài is a traditional costume designed to be worn on formal occasions and festivals. However, in modern life, many people believe that áo dài is not suitable for everyday activities, such as going to school, going to work, going out, etc. [52] (#cite_note-54) [53] (#cite_note-55) Similar garments [ edit ] Áo dài looks similar to the cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) as they both consist of a long robe with side splits on both sides of the robe with one of the main difference typically being the height of the side split. [54] (#cite_note-56) Áo dài is also similar to the shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) and the kurta (/wiki/Kurta) of countries following Indo (/wiki/Culture_of_India) - Islamic culture (/wiki/Islamic_culture) such as India (/wiki/India) , Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistan) , etc. [55] (#cite_note-57) Gallery [ edit ] Five sisters wearing ao dai, 1950s Saigon old man wearing traditional áo dài and khăn vấn (/wiki/Kh%C4%83n_v%E1%BA%A5n) , Tết 1963 Three girls wearing blue ao dai are leading each other Female students wearing purple ao dai are dancing, January 2009 A woman wearing cyan áo dài is performing, September 2013 A woman wearing orange round neck áo dài with pattern is walking, February 2015 A young girl wearing white áo dài and holding nón lá (/wiki/N%C3%B3n_l%C3%A1) in her right hand, June 2015 A woman wearing red áo dài with pattern, May 2016 A woman wearing pink wide neck áo dài, November 2016 A woman wearing orange áo dài sitting on the stairs, November 2016 A woman wearing red áo dài sitting on a chair, December 2016 Two women wearing blue áo dài, February 2017 A woman wearing yellow áo dài, May 2021 See also [ edit ] Vietnam portal (/wiki/Portal:Vietnam) Society portal (/wiki/Portal:Society) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Culture of Vietnam (/wiki/Culture_of_Vietnam) Vietnamese clothing (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Ao dai" appears in the Oxford English Dictionary , the American Heritage Dictionary (2004), and the Random House Unabridged Dictionary (2006). Other Vietnamese words that appear include " Tet (/wiki/T%E1%BA%BFt) ", " Vietminh (/wiki/Vietminh) ", " Vietcong (/wiki/Vietcong) ", and " pho (/wiki/Pho) " (rice noodles). [1] (http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/world/20070919-1502-britain-newwords.html) ^ (#cite_ref-12) A court historian described the dress in Huế as follows: "Outside court, men and women wear gowns with straight collars and short sleeves. The sleeves are large or small depending on the wearer. There are seams on both sides running down from the sleeve, so the gown is not open anywhere. Men may wear a round collar and a short sleeve for more convenience." ("Thường phục thì đàn ông, đàn bà dùng áo cổ đứng ngắn tay, cửa ống tay rộng hoặc hẹp tùy tiện. Áo thì hai bên nách trở xuống phải khâu kín liền, không được xẻ mở. Duy đàn ông không muốn mặc áo cổ tròn ống tay hẹp cho tiện khi làm việc thì được phép…") (from Đại Nam Thực Lục [ Records of Đại Nam ]) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Definition of ao dai | Dictionary.com" (https://www.dictionary.com/browse/ao-dai) . www.dictionary.com . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Ao dai definition and meaning | Collins English Dictionary" (https://www.collinsdictionary.com/us/dictionary/english/ao-dai) . www.collinsdictionary.com . ^ (#cite_ref-AmerHerit_3-0) "Definition of (https://web.archive.org/web/20130916142709/http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/ao-dai) ao dai in English" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130916142709/http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/ao-dai) . September 16, 2013. Archived from the original (http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/ao-dai) on September 16, 2013 . Retrieved February 12, 2023 . Áo is derived from a Middle Chinese (/wiki/Middle_Chinese) word ( 襖 ) meaning "padded coat". "襖" (https://www.zdic.net/hans/%E8%A5%96) . zdic.net . Retrieved May 20, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Tuttle_4-0) Phan Van Giuong, Tuttle Compact Vietnamese Dictionary: Vietnamese–English English–Vietnamese (2008), p. 76. " dài adj. long, lengthy." ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Ellis, Claire (1996). "Ao Dai: The National Costume" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080705105011/http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/1083) . Things Asian . Archived from the original (http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/1083) on July 5, 2008 . Retrieved August 2, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Lieu (2000) (#CITEREFLieu2000) , p. 127–151. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTENiessenLeshkowichJones200389_8-0) Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003) (#CITEREFNiessenLeshkowichJones2003) , p. 89. ^ Jump up to: a b Vu, Thuy (2014). "Đi tìm ngàn năm áo mũ" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150617124135/http://tuoitre.vn/tin/chinh-tri-xa-hoi/phong-su-ky-su/20141007/di-tim-ngan-nam-ao-mu/654967.html) . Tuoi Tre . Archived from the original (http://tuoitre.vn/tin/chinh-tri-xa-hoi/phong-su-ky-su/20141007/di-tim-ngan-nam-ao-mu/654967.html) on June 17, 2015 . Retrieved June 16, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-TVAN_10-0) T.Van (2013). "Ancient costumes of Vietnamese people" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150617082002/http://english.vietnamnet.vn/fms/vietnam-in-photos/78314/ancient-costumes-of-vietnam.html) . Vietnamnet . Archived from the original (http://english.vietnamnet.vn/fms/vietnam-in-photos/78314/ancient-costumes-of-vietnam.html) on June 17, 2015 . Retrieved June 16, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTELeshkowich200561_11-0) Leshkowich 2005 (#CITEREFLeshkowich2005) , p. 61. ^ (#cite_ref-2_13-0) "TRANG PHỤC (THƯỜNG PHỤC) Ở ĐÀNG TRONG THỜI VÕ VƯƠNG NGUYỄN PHÚC KHOÁT – NHỮNG NÉT ĐẶC TRƯNG" (https://vovinhquang.wordpress.com/2020/10/09/trang-phuc-thuong-phuc-o-dang-trong-thoi-vo-vuong-nguyen-phuc-khoat-nhung-net-dac-trung/) . Bình Nguyên - Võ Vinh Quang (in Vietnamese). October 8, 2020 . Retrieved February 12, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-kauffner_14-0) www.visions-of-indochina.com http://www.visions-of-indochina.com/latestnews/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/ao-dai-article.pdf (http://www.visions-of-indochina.com/latestnews/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/ao-dai-article.pdf) . Retrieved February 12, 2023 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : Missing or empty |title= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#citation_missing_title) ) ^ Jump up to: a b Niessen, Leshkowich & Jones (2003) (#CITEREFNiessenLeshkowichJones2003) , p. 91. ^ (#cite_ref-ninh_16-0) "A Fashion Revolution" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080623224038/http://www.ninhthuanpt.com.vn/English/Fashion1/index.htm) . Ninh Thuận P&T . Archived from the original (http://www.ninhthuanpt.com.vn/english/Fashion1/index.htm) on June 23, 2008 . Retrieved August 2, 2008 . . 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Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Áo dài cách tân - hòa mình với cuộc sống hiện đại" (https://baophapluat.vn/post-384253.html) . Báo Pháp luật Việt Nam điện tử (in Vietnamese). March 7, 2021 . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Tôn vinh vẻ đẹp của áo dài Việt Nam tại Hà Nam" (https://baohanam.com.vn/van-hoa/ton-vinh-ve-dep-cua-ao-dai-viet-nam-tai-ha-nam-105559.html) . Báo Hà Nam điện tử . October 24, 2023 . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Vietnam+ (VietnamPlus) (February 13, 2021). "Áo dài - Di sản văn hóa Việt, niềm tự hào của người Việt Nam" (https://www.vietnamplus.vn/post-694815.vnp) . Vietnam+ (VietnamPlus) (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) thanhnien.vn. "Hoa hậu Thái Lan mặc áo dài lộ nội y ren phản cảm" (https://thanhnien.vn/thoi-trang-tre/hoa-hau-thai-lan-mac-ao-dai-lo-noi-y-ren-phan-cam-185230425113406014.htm) . thanhnien.vn (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) congly.vn (March 24, 2023). "Áo dài xuyên thấu: Cách tân, hợp thời, hay phản cảm?" (https://congly.vn/ao-dai-xuyen-thau-cach-tan-hop-thoi-hay-phan-cam-370407.html) . congly.vn (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) ONLINE, TUOI TRE (June 8, 2023). "Diễn áo dài, áo yếm phản cảm: Đề xuất phạt 85 triệu đồng" (https://tuoitre.vn/dien-ao-dai-ao-yem-phan-cam-de-xuat-phat-85-trieu-dong-20230608144841765.htm) . TUOI TRE ONLINE (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) NLD.COM.VN. "Siêu mẫu Hà Anh lại bị chỉ trích sau sự cố mặc áo dài phản cảm" (https://nld.com.vn/van-nghe/sieu-mau-ha-anh-lai-bi-chi-trich-sau-su-co-mac-ao-dai-phan-cam-20220823105834252.htm) . Báo Người Lao Động Online (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Hoa hậu Ngọc Châu mặc áo dài xuyên thấu, bị chê dung tục" (https://tienphong.vn/post-1520507.tpo) . Báo điện tử Tiền Phong (in Vietnamese). March 25, 2023 . 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"Truyền thống bền vững nhưng không biết cách bảo tồn nó sẽ rơi về phía mong manh" (https://tuoitre.vn/truyen-thong-ben-vung-nhung-khong-biet-cach-bao-ton-no-se-roi-ve-phia-mong-manh-20200913091110262.htm) . TUOI TRE ONLINE (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) Trí, Dân (November 14, 2013). "Áo dài- từ "biểu tượng văn hóa" đến… "thảm họa văn hóa" (II)" (https://dantri.com.vn/van-hoa/ao-dai-tu-bieu-tuong-van-hoa-den-tham-hoa-van-hoa-ii-1384817612.htm) . Báo điện tử Dân Trí (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) danviet.vn (February 25, 2016). "Mặc áo dài hàng ngày: Nên hay không?" (https://danviet.vn/mac-ao-dai-hang-ngay-nen-hay-khong-7777663148.htm) . danviet.vn (in Vietnamese) . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) "Áo dài Việt trong đời sống hàng ngày" (https://baophapluat.vn/post-468401.html) . Báo Pháp luật Việt Nam điện tử (in Vietnamese). March 5, 2023 . Retrieved January 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) "Vietnam Traditional Clothes: Ao Dai – VietnamOnline" (https://www.vietnamonline.com/culture/ao-dai.html) . www.vietnamonline.com . Retrieved June 30, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Bach, Trinh (2020). "Origin of Vietnamese Ao Dai" (https://vjol.info.vn/index.php/ncpt-hue/article/view/54470/45091) . Retrieved July 23, 2023 . Bibliography [ edit ] Leshkowich, Ann Marie (2005). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion . Li, Tana (1998). Nguyễn Cochichina: Southern Vietnam in the Seventeenth and eighteenth centuries . Southeast Asia Program Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780877277224 . Lieu, Nhi T. (2000). "Remembering 'the Nation' through pageantry: femininity and the politics of Vietnamese womanhood in the 'Hoa Hau Ao Dai' contest". Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies (/wiki/Frontiers:_A_Journal_of_Women_Studies) . 21 (1–2). University of Nebraska Press: 127–151. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2307/3347038 (https://doi.org/10.2307%2F3347038) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 3347038 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/3347038) . Niessen, S. A.; Leshkowich, Ann Marie; Jones, Carla, eds. (2003). Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress . Berg. p. 89. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-85973-539-8 . Further reading [ edit ] Trần Quang Đức (2013). Ngàn Năm Áo Mũ. Lịch sử trang phục Việt Nam 1009–1945 [ A Thousand Years of Caps and Robes. A history of Vietnamese costumes 1009–1945 ]. Nhã Nam. OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 862888254 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/862888254) . External links [ edit ] Media related to Áo dài (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i) at Wikimedia Commons A modern gallery of Áo dài photographs (https://www.rehahnphotographer.com/ao-dai-tradition-vietnam) History of the Vietnamese Long Dress (https://web.archive.org/web/20130322182508/http://wrile.com/long-dress-ao-dai-vietnam) The Evolution of the Ao Dai Through Many Eras (https://web.archive.org/web/20110622101508/http://www.ci.seattle.wa.us/helpinglink/StudentWeb/webproject/html/fashion.htm) , Gia Long Alumni Association of Seattle, 2000 Vietnam: Mini-Skirts & Ao-Dais (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej7WATu_klE) . A video that shows what the women of Saigon wore in 1968 v t e Folk costumes (/wiki/Folk_costume) Africa (/wiki/Clothing_in_Africa) Balgha (/wiki/Balgha) Boubou (/wiki/Agbada) Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) Djellaba (/wiki/Djellaba) Head tie (/wiki/Head_tie) Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) Litham (/wiki/Litham) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Senegalese kaftan (/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan) Tagelmust (/wiki/Tagelmust) Wrapper (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) Asia Central Afghanistan (/wiki/Pashtun_clothing) Pakol (/wiki/Pakol) Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) East China (/wiki/Chinese_clothing) Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) Tangzhuang (/wiki/Tangzhuang) Japan (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) Hachimaki (/wiki/Hachimaki) Kimono (/wiki/Kimono) Obi (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) Korea (/wiki/List_of_Korean_clothing) Cheopji (/wiki/Cheopji) Daenggi (/wiki/Daenggi) Gache (/wiki/Gache) Hanbok (/wiki/Hanbok) Hwagwan (/wiki/Hwagwan) Jokduri (/wiki/Jokduri) Manggeon (/wiki/Wangjin) South Bhutan Gho (/wiki/Gho) Kira (/wiki/Kira_(Bhutan)) Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) Dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) India (/wiki/Clothing_in_India) Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) Nepal (/wiki/Newar_traditional_clothing) Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistani_clothing) Pathin (/wiki/Pathin) Perak (/wiki/Perak_(headdress)) Peshawari pagri (/wiki/Peshawari_turban) Sari (/wiki/Sari) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) Southeast Burma (/wiki/Burmese_clothing) Longyi (/wiki/Longyi) Gaung baung (/wiki/Gaung_baung) Cambodia (/wiki/Khmer_clothing) Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Krama (/wiki/Krama) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Indonesia (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia) Baju bodo (/wiki/Bodo_blouse) Batik (/wiki/Batik) Blangkon (/wiki/Blangkon) Ikat (/wiki/Ikat) Kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) Kemben (/wiki/Kemben) Kupiah (/wiki/Kupiah) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tanjak (/wiki/Tengkolok) Ulos (/wiki/Ulos) Laos (/wiki/Culture_of_Laos#Traditional_clothing) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits) Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tengkolok (/wiki/Tengkolok) Philippines (/wiki/Fashion_and_clothing_in_the_Philippines) Barong tagalog (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) Baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) Buntal hat (/wiki/Buntal_hat) Malong (/wiki/Malong) Maria Clara gown (/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown) Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Thailand (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Banong (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Banong) Chong kraben (/wiki/Chong_kraben) Chut Thai (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Formal Chut Thai (/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume) Pha khao ma (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Pha_khao_ma) Pha nung (/wiki/Pha_nung) Raj pattern (/wiki/Raj_pattern) Sabai (/wiki/Sabai) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Tabengman (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Tabengman) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Áo bà ba (/wiki/%C3%81o_b%C3%A0_ba) Áo dài Áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) Áo tứ thân (/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BB%A9_th%C3%A2n) Middle East Abaya (/wiki/Abaya) Agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Assyria (/wiki/Assyrian_clothing) Bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Izaar (/wiki/Izaar) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Kippah (/wiki/Kippah) Sheitel (/wiki/Sheitel) Tallit (/wiki/Tallit) Tallit katan (/wiki/Tallit_katan) Tefillin (/wiki/Tefillin) Tzitzit (/wiki/Tzitzit) Jilbāb (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) Keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Kurdish (/wiki/Kurdish_clothing) Niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Palestine (/wiki/Palestinian_costumes) Pandama (/wiki/Pandama) Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Hejazi (/wiki/Hejazi_turban) Europe Balkan Traditional Albanian clothing (/wiki/Traditional_Albanian_clothing) Brez (/wiki/Brez_(clothing)) Çorape (/wiki/%C3%87orape) Opinga (/wiki/Opinga) Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) Xhamadan (/wiki/Xhamadan) Xhubleta (/wiki/Xhubleta) Aromanian (/w/index.php?title=Aromanian_traditional_clothing&action=edit&redlink=1) Croatia (/wiki/Croatian_national_costume) Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) Greek (/wiki/Greek_dress) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Macedonia (/wiki/Macedonian_national_costume) Romania (/wiki/Romanian_dress) Serbia (/wiki/Serbian_traditional_clothing) Kosovo (/wiki/Traditional_clothing_of_Kosovo) British Isles Britain Country (/wiki/British_country_clothing) Court (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) Windsor uniform (/wiki/Windsor_uniform) Ireland (/wiki/Irish_clothing) Scottish highlands (/wiki/Highland_dress) Aboyne (/wiki/Aboyne_dress) Feather bonnet (/wiki/Feather_bonnet) Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) Sporran (/wiki/Sporran) Wales (/wiki/Traditional_Welsh_costume) Central Dirndl (/wiki/Dirndl) Lederhosen (/wiki/Lederhosen) Poland (/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland) Tracht (/wiki/Tracht) Eastern Armenia (/wiki/Armenian_dress) Azerbaijan (/wiki/Azerbaijani_traditional_clothing) Kelaghayi (/wiki/Kelaghayi) Ukraine (/wiki/Ukrainian_national_clothing) Kobeniak (/wiki/Kobeniak) Kozhukh (/wiki/Kozhukh) Kozhushanka (/wiki/Kozhushanka) Ochipok (/wiki/Ochipok) Sharovary (/wiki/Sharovary) Vyshyvanka (/wiki/Vyshyvanka) Ukrainian wreath (/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath) Russia Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) Kosovorotka (/wiki/Kosovorotka) Lapti (/wiki/Bast_shoe) Orenburg shawl (/wiki/Orenburg_shawl) Sarafan (/wiki/Sarafan) Western Netherlands Poffer (/wiki/Poffer) Kraplap (/wiki/Kraplap) Oorijzer (/wiki/Oorijzer) France Breton costume (/wiki/Breton_costume) Spain Traje de flamenca (/wiki/Traje_de_flamenca) Barretina (/wiki/Barretina) Cachirulo (/wiki/Cachirulo) Cordovan hat (/wiki/Cordovan_hat) Sombrero de catite (/wiki/Sombrero_de_catite) Mantilla (/wiki/Mantilla) Italy Ciocia (/wiki/Ciocia) Coppola cap (/wiki/Coppola_cap) Scandinavian Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) Iceland (/wiki/Icelandic_national_costume) Sweden (/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#Folk_costuming) Nationella dräkten (/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten) Bäckadräkten (/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten) Sverigedräkten (/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1) South America Aguayo (/wiki/Aguayo_(cloth)) Chile Chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) Chilote cap (/wiki/Chilote_cap) Chilote poncho (/wiki/Chilote_poncho) Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) Liqui liqui (/wiki/Liqui_liqui) Lliklla (/wiki/Lliklla) Panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Ruana (/wiki/Ruana) North America Inuit skin clothing (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Tignon (/wiki/Tignon) Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) Western wear (/wiki/Western_wear) Bolo tie (/wiki/Bolo_tie) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) Mexico Huarache (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) Mexican pointy boots (/wiki/Mexican_pointy_boots) Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) Serape (/wiki/Serape) Sombrero (/wiki/Sombrero) Quechquemitl (/wiki/Quechquemitl) Oceania Grass skirt (/wiki/Grass_skirt) Feather cloak (/wiki/Feather_cloak) I-sala (/wiki/I-sala) Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) Lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) Kiekie (/wiki/Kiekie_(clothing)) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Sulu (/wiki/Sulu_(skirt)) Taʻovala (/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala) Tēfui (/wiki/T%C4%93fui) Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) v t e Nguyễn dynasty (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_dynasty) topics Overview Sovereign state (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_dynasty#Imperial_rule_(1802–1883)) (1802–1883) French protectorates of Annam (/wiki/Annam_(French_protectorate)) and Tonkin (/wiki/Tonkin_(French_protectorate)) (1883–1945) Empire of Vietnam (/wiki/Empire_of_Vietnam) (1945) History Sovereign Việt Nam / Đại Nam (Nhà Nguyễn thời độc lập, 茹阮𥱯獨立) Nguyễn lords (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_lords) Đàng Trong 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(/wiki/List_of_monarchs_of_Vietnam#Kingdom_of_Vietnam_(1802–1883),_Annam_Protectorate_(1883–1945)_and_Empire_of_Vietnam_(1945)) Gia Long (/wiki/Gia_Long) (1802–1820) Minh Mạng (/wiki/Minh_M%E1%BA%A1ng) (1820–1841) Thiệu Trị (/wiki/Thi%E1%BB%87u_Tr%E1%BB%8B) (1841–1847) Tự Đức (/wiki/T%E1%BB%B1_%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c) (1847–1883) Dục Đức (/wiki/D%E1%BB%A5c_%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c) (1883) Hiệp Hòa (/wiki/Hi%E1%BB%87p_H%C3%B2a) (1883) Kiến Phúc (/wiki/Ki%E1%BA%BFn_Ph%C3%BAc) (1883–1884) Hàm Nghi (/wiki/H%C3%A0m_Nghi) (1884–1885) Đồng Khánh (/wiki/%C4%90%E1%BB%93ng_Kh%C3%A1nh) (1885–1889) Thành Thái (/wiki/Th%C3%A0nh_Th%C3%A1i) (1889–1907) Duy Tân (/wiki/Duy_T%C3%A2n) (1907–1916) Khải Định (/wiki/Kh%E1%BA%A3i_%C4%90%E1%BB%8Bnh) (1916–1925) Bảo Đại (/wiki/B%E1%BA%A3o_%C4%90%E1%BA%A1i) (1925–1945) Ministries & agencies Censorate (/wiki/Censorate) Court of Judicial Review (/wiki/Court_of_Judicature_and_Revision) Court of Imperial Entertainments (/wiki/Court_of_Imperial_Entertainments) Court of the 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(/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_V%C4%83n_Nh%C6%A1n) Nguyễn Tri Phương (/wiki/Nguy%E1%BB%85n_Tri_Ph%C6%B0%C6%A1ng) Phan Văn Thúy (/wiki/Phan_V%C4%83n_Th%C3%BAy) Trương Minh Giảng (/wiki/Tr%C6%B0%C6%A1ng_Minh_Gi%E1%BA%A3ng) Special administrative regions Champa (/wiki/Champa) Principality of Thuận Thành (/wiki/Principality_of_Thu%E1%BA%ADn_Th%C3%A0nh) Principality of Hà Tiên (/wiki/Principality_of_H%C3%A0_Ti%C3%AAn) Sip Song Chau Tai (/wiki/Sip_Song_Chau_Tai) Thủy Xá and Hỏa Xá (/wiki/Th%E1%BB%A7y_X%C3%A1_and_H%E1%BB%8Fa_X%C3%A1) Trấn Ninh (/wiki/Muang_Phuan) Trấn Tây Thành (/wiki/T%C3%A2y_Th%C3%A0nh_Province) Palaces & mausoleums Palaces Imperial City of Huế (/wiki/Imperial_City_of_Hu%E1%BA%BF) Meridian Gate (/wiki/Meridian_Gate_(Hu%E1%BA%BF)) Tombs Thien Tho Mausoleum (/wiki/Tomb_of_Gia_Long) Khiêm Mausoleum (/wiki/Tomb_of_T%E1%BB%B1_%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c) An Mausoleum (/wiki/Tomb_of_D%E1%BB%A5c_%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c) Ứng Mausoleum (/wiki/Tomb_of_Kh%E1%BA%A3i_%C4%90%E1%BB%8Bnh) Society & culture Áo dài Đại Nam nhất thống chí (/wiki/%C4%90%E1%BA%A1i_Nam_nh%E1%BA%A5t_th%E1%BB%91ng_ch%C3%AD) Đại Nam thực lục (/wiki/%C4%90%E1%BA%A1i_Nam_th%E1%BB%B1c_l%E1%BB%A5c) Hoàng Lê nhất thống chí (/wiki/Ho%C3%A0ng_L%C3%AA_nh%E1%BA%A5t_th%E1%BB%91ng_ch%C3%AD) Khâm định Việt sử Thông giám cương mục (/wiki/Kh%C3%A2m_%C4%91%E1%BB%8Bnh_Vi%E1%BB%87t_s%E1%BB%AD_Th%C3%B4ng_gi%C3%A1m_c%C6%B0%C6%A1ng_m%E1%BB%A5c) Khăn vấn (/wiki/Kh%C4%83n_v%E1%BA%A5n) Woodblocks of the Nguyễn Dynasty (/wiki/Woodblocks_of_the_Nguy%E1%BB%85n_Dynasty) Education Imperial Academy, Huế (/wiki/Imperial_Academy,_Hu%E1%BA%BF) Imperial examination (/wiki/Imperial_examination) Confucian court examination system in Vietnam (/wiki/Confucian_court_examination_system_in_Vietnam) Quốc Học – Huế High School for the Gifted (/wiki/Qu%E1%BB%91c_H%E1%BB%8Dc_%E2%80%93_Hu%E1%BA%BF_High_School_for_the_Gifted) Société d’Enseignement Mutuel du Tonkin (/wiki/H%E1%BB%99i_Tr%C3%AD_Tri) Tonkin Free School (/wiki/Tonkin_Free_School) Currency Cash coins (/wiki/Vietnamese_cash) Tự Đức Thông Bảo (/wiki/T%E1%BB%B1_%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c_Th%C3%B4ng_B%E1%BA%A3o) Tự Đức Bảo Sao (/wiki/T%E1%BB%B1_%C4%90%E1%BB%A9c_B%E1%BA%A3o_Sao) Khải Định Thông Bảo (/wiki/Kh%E1%BA%A3i_%C4%90%E1%BB%8Bnh_Th%C3%B4ng_B%E1%BA%A3o) Bảo Đại Thông Bảo (/wiki/B%E1%BA%A3o_%C4%90%E1%BA%A1i_Th%C3%B4ng_B%E1%BA%A3o) Currency units Văn (/wiki/Vietnamese_v%C4%83n_(currency_unit)) Mạch (/wiki/Vietnamese_m%E1%BA%A1ch) Quán (/wiki/String_of_cash_coins_(currency_unit)) Tiền (/wiki/Ti%E1%BB%81n) Colonial currencies French Indochinese piastre (/wiki/French_Indochinese_piastre) Laws Hương ước (/wiki/Hyangyak#In_Vietnam) Treaties Saigon (/wiki/Treaty_of_Saigon_(1862)) (1862) Huế (/wiki/Treaty_of_Hu%E1%BA%BF_(1863)) (1863) Saigon (/wiki/Treaty_of_Saigon_(1874)) (1874) Huế (/wiki/Treaty_of_Hu%E1%BA%BF_(1883)) (1883) Huế (/wiki/Treaty_of_Hu%E1%BA%BF_(1884)) (1884) Orders, decorations, and medals Bai (/wiki/Bai_(decoration)) Imperial Order of the Dragon of Annam (/wiki/Imperial_Order_of_the_Dragon_of_Annam) Kim Khánh (/wiki/Kim_Kh%C3%A1nh) Other topics Domain of the Crown (/wiki/Domain_of_the_Crown) Economy of the Nguyễn dynasty until 1884 (/wiki/Economy_of_the_Nguy%E1%BB%85n_dynasty_until_1884) Esplanade of Sacrifice to the Heaven and Earth (/wiki/Esplanade_of_Sacrifice_to_the_Heaven_and_Earth) House of Nguyễn Phúc (/wiki/House_of_Nguy%E1%BB%85n_Ph%C3%BAc) Long Wall of Quảng Ngãi (/wiki/Long_Wall_of_Qu%E1%BA%A3ng_Ng%C3%A3i) Postage stamps and postal history of Annam and Tongking (/wiki/Postage_stamps_and_postal_history_of_Annam_and_Tongking) Thoại Hà Canal (/wiki/Tho%E1%BA%A1i_H%C3%A0_Canal) Vĩnh Tế Canal (/wiki/V%C4%A9nh_T%E1%BA%BF_Canal) Tôn Thất (/wiki/T%C3%B4n_Th%E1%BA%A5t) Việt gian (/wiki/Vi%E1%BB%87t_gian) Vietnamese nationalism (/wiki/Vietnamese_nationalism) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐m4lns Cached time: 20240721220527 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, 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Australian clothing company This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Mambo_Graphics) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Mambo Graphics" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Mambo+Graphics%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Mambo+Graphics%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Mambo+Graphics%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Mambo+Graphics%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Mambo+Graphics%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Mambo+Graphics%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Mambo Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) , textile (/wiki/Textile_industry) Founded 1984 ; 40 years ago ( 1984 ) Founders Dare Jennings and Andrew Rich Headquarters Alexandria, New South Wales (/wiki/Alexandria,_New_South_Wales) , Australia Area served Worldwide Products Surfing (/wiki/Surfing) wetsuits (/wiki/Wetsuit) , casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Caprice Australia [1] (#cite_note-1) Website mambo-world.com.au (https://www.mambo-world.com.au/) Mambo Graphics (also, 100% Mambo ; and marketed as Mambo ) is an Australian company designer of clothing (/wiki/Clothing) . The company produces and commercialises surfing (/wiki/Surfing) wetsuits (/wiki/Wetsuit) , and casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) clothing. Mambo was launched in 1984 by musician Dare Jennings and business partner, Andrew Rich in the Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) suburb of Alexandria (/wiki/Alexandria,_New_South_Wales) . On 6 January 2015, Mambo was acquired by American company Saban Brands (/wiki/Saban_Brands) . In July 2019 Mambo was brought back to Australian ownership when it was acquired by Caprice Australia. Mambo is sold across Australia and New Zealand and, in 2011, entered the United States and Canada and has opened Mambo stores in the UK. The first pair of board shorts was created by an English designer Paul Smith (/wiki/Paul_Smith_(fashion_designer)) . Peter Pilotto and other designers inspired the female wetsuits. History [ edit ] Early days [ edit ] In the early 1970s, Dare Jennings owned a large and successful screen printing business, Phantom Textile Printers, producing t-shirt and fabric prints for a variety of commercial clients. He also owned an independent record label, Phantom Records (/wiki/Phantom_Records) . Mambo began life as an "after-hours" project in the Phantom art room. The graphics were initially created by in-house artists such as musician Jodi Phillis (/wiki/Jodi_Phillis) , and by freelance artist, Richard Allan whose first t-shirt graphics, 'Real Wrestlers, Real Wrestling' and 'Call Of The Wild (Farting Dog)' were the best-sellers. '100% Mambo' clothing was often available in surf / skate shops in the mid- to late 1980s in the UK. As skateboarders wore a lot of surfer-inspired clothing, Mambo board shorts in loud / Hawaiian patterns were worn by skaters. Other similar surf / skate brands around at the time were Stüssy (/wiki/St%C3%BCssy) , Life's A Beach and Vision Street Wear (/wiki/Vision_Street_Wear) . As this was long before skate culture became mainstream (e.g. skate shops often only sold Vans (/wiki/Vans) , Vision or Converse (/wiki/Converse_(lifestyle_wear)) shoes), these were usually niche products. Allan's arrival at Mambo was followed by other Australian and overseas artists, including Reg Mombassa (/wiki/Reg_Mombassa) , Robert Williams (/wiki/Robert_Williams_(artist)) (US) and Ben Frost. Development [ edit ] This section is in list (/wiki/MOS:LIST) format but may read better as prose (/wiki/MOS:PROSE) . You can help by converting this section (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mambo_Graphics&action=edit) , if appropriate. Editing help (/wiki/Help:Editing) is available. ( July 2023 ) A Mambo shirt logo In 1994, the first Mambo 'Loud Shirt' was released. The design was influenced by the famous Hawaiian 'Aloha' shirt (/wiki/Aloha_shirt) . It was called 'Blue Hawaii' by Martin Plaza (/wiki/Martin_Plaza) (a bandmate of Reg Mombassa (/wiki/Reg_Mombassa) ). This shirt became one of Mambo's best-sellers and started the Mambo 'Loud Shirt' style. Mambo opened its first store in 1995. Located in the Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) suburb of Paddington (/wiki/Paddington,_New_South_Wales) , it was called the 'Mambo Friendship Store'. Stores opened in other Australian cities and in the UK, Europe (/wiki/Europe) , Asia (/wiki/Asia) and New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) . By 2001, Mambo had opened 25 independent retail stores. In 2000 Mambo received an invitation from the Australian Wool Board (/wiki/Australian_Wool_Board) to design the athlete's uniform for the opening ceremony (/wiki/Opening_ceremony) of the 2000 Summer Olympics (/wiki/2000_Summer_Olympics) in Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) . After the Summer Olympic Games, Jennings was approached by Gazal Corporation (/wiki/Gazal_Corporation) to buy the brand. Jennings sold the company in March of that year and took over the role of creative director. [ citation needed ] Jennings left the company in 2002 and later went on to create the surf and moto-inspired brand Deus Ex Machina . [2] (#cite_note-2) In 2006, Principle (an Australian research company) named Mambo "Australia's sixth-most-authentic brand" alongside Bonds (/wiki/Bonds_(clothing)) , Speedo (/wiki/Speedo) , R. M. Williams (/wiki/R._M._Williams) and Billabong (/wiki/Billabong_(clothing)) . [3] (#cite_note-3) In 2008 Mambo was sold to The Nervous Investor Group, an Australian-based consortium headed by Angus Kingsmill and based in the Sydney beachside suburb of Manly (/wiki/Manly,_New_South_Wales) . [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2015 Mambo was sold to US clothing group Saban Brands (/wiki/Saban_Brands) . [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2012, Mambo entered into partnerships with key players in the US and Brazil with plans to introduce the brand on a large scale in each country. [7] (#cite_note-7) In July 2019, Mambo was acquired by 60-year-old family-run brand Caprice Australia, bringing ownership of the Mambo brand to Australia. [8] (#cite_note-8) See also [ edit ] Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Australia portal (/wiki/Portal:Australia) List of swimwear brands (/wiki/List_of_swimwear_brands) List of Australian bicycle brands and manufacturers (/wiki/List_of_Australian_bicycle_brands_and_manufacturers) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Caprice Australia" (https://guide.ethical.org.au/company/?company=5658) . guide.ethical.org.au . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20211108025031/https://guide.ethical.org.au/company/?company=5658) from the original on 8 November 2021 . Retrieved 8 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Dare Jennings, founder of Mambo and Deus Ex Machina, on how to build a successful global brand" (https://www.businessinsider.com.au/dare-jennings-founder-of-mambo-and-deus-ex-machina-on-how-to-build-a-successful-global-brand-2018-5) . Business Insider Australia . 20 May 2018. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220217055220/https://www.businessinsider.com.au/dare-jennings-founder-of-mambo-and-deus-ex-machina-on-how-to-build-a-successful-global-brand-2018-5) from the original on 17 February 2022 . Retrieved 17 February 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Superbrands Vol.5 (http://www.superbrands.com.au/BrandDetails.aspx?id=67) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110222212525/http://superbrands.com.au/BrandDetails.aspx?id=67) 2011-02-22 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Superbrands (/wiki/Superbrands) . 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Fashion: Born-Again Mambo - TIME" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121107142946/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1853177-1,00.html) . 7 November 2012. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1853177-1,00.html) on 7 November 2012 . Retrieved 21 July 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Mambo sold to US clothing group Saban Brands" (https://www.news.com.au/finance/business/manufacturing/mambo-sold-to-us-clothing-group-saban-brands/news-story/4ce0508b4eda4d50fcb368c7f4649b5b) . news.com.au . 7 January 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160124223728/http://www.news.com.au/finance/business/manufacturing/mambo-sold-to-us-clothing-group-saban-brands/news-story/4ce0508b4eda4d50fcb368c7f4649b5b) from the original on 24 January 2016 . Retrieved 22 December 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Iconic Australian Fashion Brand, Mambo, Joins Saban Brands' Portfolio" (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20150106005460/en/Iconic-Australian-Fashion-Brand-Mambo-Joins-Saban-Brands%E2%80%99-Portfolio) (Press release). 6 January 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201113114451/https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20150106005460/en/Iconic-Australian-Fashion-Brand-Mambo-Joins-Saban-Brands%E2%80%99-Portfolio) from the original on 13 November 2020 . Retrieved 22 December 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Mambo restructure leads to global expansion" (https://archive.today/20120914092833/http://www.textilesource.com.au/news/mambo-restructure-leads-to-global-expansion-20120202-20822.html) . Textile Source . Melbourne. 2 February 2012. Archived from the original (http://www.textilesource.com.au/news/mambo-restructure-leads-to-global-expansion-20120202-20822.html) on 14 September 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "MAMBO ANNOUNCES 'LIFESTYLE' PARTNERSHIP WITH URBNSURF" (https://asbmag.com/mambo-announces-lifestyle-partnership-with-urbnsurf/) . ASB . 4 February 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210424161159/https://asbmag.com/mambo-announces-lifestyle-partnership-with-urbnsurf/) from the original on 24 April 2021 . Retrieved 24 April 2021 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.mambo-world.com.au/) v t e Sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) brands This list includes companies that produce sports equipment. List by sport include only current products manufactured Multi-sports Acerbis (/wiki/Acerbis) Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) Admiral (/wiki/Admiral_Sportswear) AFA (/wiki/AFA_Sports) Alpine Pro (/wiki/Alpine_Pro) Anta (/wiki/Anta_Sports) Arc'teryx (/wiki/Arc%27teryx) Asics (/wiki/Asics) Atletica (/wiki/Atletica) BLK (/wiki/BLK_(sportswear)) Burley-Sekem (/wiki/Burley-Sekem) Castore (/wiki/Castore) Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) Charly (/wiki/Charly_(brand)) Classic (/wiki/Classic_Sportswear) Descente (/wiki/Descente) Diadora (/wiki/Diadora) ERKE (/wiki/ERKE) Erreà (/wiki/Erre%C3%A0) EvoShield (/wiki/EvoShield) FBT (/wiki/FBT_(company)) Fila (/wiki/Fila) Fischer (/wiki/Fischer_(company)) 4F (/wiki/4F_(company)) Garcis (/wiki/Garcis) Givova (/wiki/Givova) Grand Sport (/wiki/Grand_Sport_Group) Grays (/wiki/Grays_International) Head (/wiki/Head_(company)) Hummel (/wiki/Hummel_International) ISC (/wiki/ISC_(sportswear)) Jako (/wiki/Jako) Joma (/wiki/Joma) Kappa (/wiki/Kappa_(brand)) Kelme (/wiki/Kelme_(company)) Kookaburra (/wiki/Kookaburra_Sport) Le Coq Sportif (/wiki/Le_Coq_Sportif) Legea (/wiki/Legea) Li-Ning (/wiki/Li-Ning) Lotto (/wiki/Lotto_Sport_Italia) Luanvi (/wiki/Luanvi) Lululemon (/wiki/Lululemon_Athletica) Macron (/wiki/Macron_(sportswear)) Majestic (/wiki/Majestic_Athletic) Mikasa (/wiki/Mikasa_Sports) Mitchell & Ness (/wiki/Mitchell_%26_Ness) Mitre (/wiki/Mitre_Sports_International) Mizuno (/wiki/Mizuno_Corporation) Molten (/wiki/Molten_Corporation) Oakley (/wiki/Oakley,_Inc.) On (/wiki/On_(company)) NAAI (/wiki/NAAI) New Balance (/wiki/New_Balance) Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) Nivia (/wiki/Nivia_Sports) O'Neills (/wiki/O%27Neills) Peak (/wiki/Peak_Sport_Products) Penalty (/wiki/Penalty_(sports_manufacturer)) Poker (/wiki/Poker_(sports_manufacturer)) Pirma (/wiki/Pirma) Puma (/wiki/Puma_(brand)) Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) Reusch (/wiki/Reusch_(company)) Russell (/wiki/Russell_Athletic) Schutt (/wiki/Schutt_Sports) Scott (/wiki/Scott_Sports) Signia (/wiki/Signia_(sportswear)) Skins (/wiki/Skins_(sportswear)) Slazenger (/wiki/Slazenger) Sportika (/wiki/Sportika) Starter (/wiki/Starter_(clothing_line)) Topper (/wiki/Topper_(brand)) Uhlsport (/wiki/Uhlsport) Umbro (/wiki/Umbro) Under Armour (/wiki/Under_Armour) Voit (/wiki/Voit) XBlades (/wiki/XBlades) Xtep (/wiki/Xtep) Warrior (/wiki/Warrior_Sports) Warrix Sports (/wiki/Warrix_Sports) Wilson (/wiki/Wilson_Sporting_Goods) World Balance (/wiki/World_Balance) Yonex (/wiki/Yonex) 2XU (/wiki/2XU) Association football (/wiki/Association_football) Athleta (/wiki/Athleta_(company)) Bukta (/wiki/Bukta) Capelli (/wiki/Capelli_Sport) Finta (/wiki/Finta) Marathon (/wiki/Marathon_Sports) Nanque (/wiki/Nanque) Patrick (/wiki/Patrick_(sportswear_company)) Select (/wiki/Select_Sport) SIX5SIX (/wiki/SIX5SIX) Sport-Saller (/wiki/Sport-Saller) St Margaret's (/wiki/N._Corah_%26_Sons) Australian football (/wiki/Australian_rules_football) Cotton On (/wiki/Cotton_On) Sherrin (/wiki/Sherrin) Baseball (/wiki/Baseball) / softball (/wiki/Softball) DeMarini (/wiki/DeMarini) Louisville Slugger (/wiki/Hillerich_%26_Bradsby) Marucci (/wiki/Marucci_Sports) Nokona (/wiki/Nocona_Athletic_Goods_Company) Rawlings (/wiki/Rawlings_(company)) Basketball (/wiki/Basketball) AND1 (/wiki/AND1) First Ever (/wiki/First_Ever) Spalding (/wiki/Spalding_(company)) Boxing (/wiki/Boxing) Boxa (/wiki/Boxa) Everlast (/wiki/Everlast_(brand)) Lonsdale (/wiki/Lonsdale_(clothing)) Sting (/wiki/Sting_Sports) Twins Special (/wiki/Twins_Special) Cricket (/wiki/Cricket) CA (/wiki/CA_Sports) County (/wiki/Hunts_County) Dukes (/wiki/British_Cricket_Balls_Ltd) Duncan Fearnley (/wiki/Duncan_Fearnley) Gray-Nicolls (/wiki/Gray-Nicolls) Gunn & Moore (/wiki/Gunn_%26_Moore) Sanspareils Greenlands (/wiki/Sanspareils_Greenlands) Sareen (/wiki/Sareen_Sports_Industries) Stuart Surridge (/wiki/Stuart_Surridge) Cue sports (/wiki/Cue_sports) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_Corporation) Parris Cues (/wiki/Parris_Cues) Riley (/wiki/Riley_(brand)) Cycling (/wiki/Cycle_sport) Bell Sports (/wiki/Bell_Sports) Castelli (/wiki/Castelli_(brand)) Giro (/wiki/Giro_(company)) Rapha (/wiki/Rapha_(sportswear)) Northwave (/wiki/Northwave) Santini SMS (/wiki/Santini_SMS) SIDI (/wiki/SIDI) Troy Lee (/wiki/Troy_Lee_Designs) Darts (/wiki/Darts) Winmau (/wiki/Winmau) Golf (/wiki/Golf) Adams (/wiki/Adams_Golf) Ashworth (/wiki/Ashworth_(clothing)) Bettinardi (/wiki/Bettinardi_Golf) Bridgestone (/wiki/Bridgestone_Golf) Callaway (/wiki/Callaway_Golf_Company) Cleveland (/wiki/Cleveland_Golf) Cobra (/wiki/Cobra_Golf) FootJoy (/wiki/FootJoy) Forgan (/wiki/Forgan_of_St_Andrews) John Letters (/wiki/John_Letters) MacGregor (/wiki/MacGregor_Golf) Maxfli (/wiki/Maxfli) OnCore (/wiki/OnCore_Golf) PXG (/wiki/Parsons_Xtreme_Golf) Penfold (/wiki/Penfold_Golf) Ping (/wiki/Ping_(golf)) Polara (/wiki/Polara_Golf) Srixon (/wiki/Srixon) TaylorMade (/wiki/TaylorMade) Titleist (/wiki/Titleist) Wilson Staff (/wiki/Wilson_Staff) Scotty Cameron (/wiki/Scotty_Cameron) Yamaha Golf (/wiki/Yamaha_Corporation) Gridiron football (/wiki/Gridiron_football) Riddell (/wiki/Riddell_Sports_Group) Handball (/wiki/Handball) Select (/wiki/Select_Sport) Ice hockey (/wiki/Ice_hockey) Bauer (/wiki/Bauer_Hockey) Canadien (/wiki/Canadien_(ice_hockey)) CCM (/wiki/CCM_(ice_hockey)) Hespeler (/wiki/Hespeler_Hockey) Itech (/wiki/Itech) Jofa (/wiki/Jofa) Koho (/wiki/Koho_(company)) Mission (/wiki/Mission_Hockey) Sher-Wood (/wiki/Sher-Wood) Titan (/wiki/Titan_(ice_hockey)) Vaughn (/wiki/Vaughn_Hockey) Martial arts (/wiki/Martial_arts) Fairtex (/wiki/Fairtex) Tapout (/wiki/Tapout_(clothing_brand)) Twins Special (/wiki/Twins_Special) Venum (/wiki/Venum) Motorsport (/wiki/Motorsport) AGV (/wiki/AGV_(helmet_manufacturer)) Alpinestars (/wiki/Alpinestars) Arai (/wiki/Arai_Helmet) Bell Sports (/wiki/Bell_Sports) Dainese (/wiki/Dainese) Momo (/wiki/Momo_(company)) Nolan (/wiki/Nolan_Helmets) OMP (/wiki/OMP_Racing) Schuberth (/wiki/Schuberth) Shark (/wiki/Shark_(helmet_manufacturer)) Shoei (/wiki/Shoei) SIDI (/wiki/SIDI) Simpson (/wiki/Simpson_Performance_Products) Sparco (/wiki/Sparco) Troy Lee (/wiki/Troy_Lee_Designs) Rugby (/wiki/Rugby_football) Canterbury (/wiki/Canterbury_of_New_Zealand) FI-TA (/wiki/FI-TA) Gilbert (/wiki/Gilbert_Rugby) LE (/wiki/Limited_Edition_Sportswear) St Margaret's (/wiki/N._Corah_%26_Sons) Steeden (/wiki/Steeden) Webb Ellis (/wiki/Webb_Ellis_(sportswear)) Running (/wiki/Running) / Hiking (/wiki/Hiking) Altra (/wiki/Altra_Running) Brooks (/wiki/Brooks_Sports) Hoka One One (/wiki/Hoka_One_One) Karhu (/wiki/Karhu_(sports_brand)) Karrimor (/wiki/Karrimor) LA Gear (/wiki/LA_Gear) Merrell (/wiki/Merrell_(company)) Olympikus (/wiki/Olympikus) Saucony (/wiki/Saucony) Skiing (/wiki/Skiing) 4FRNT (/wiki/4FRNT) Alpina (/wiki/Alpina_%C5%BDiri) Armada (/wiki/Armada_(company)) Atomic (/wiki/Atomic_Skis) Black Crows (/wiki/Black_Crows_Skis) Black Diamond (/wiki/Black_Diamond_Equipment) Blizzard (/wiki/Blizzard_Sport) Dynastar (/wiki/Dynastar) Elan (/wiki/Elan_(company)) Faction (/wiki/The_Faction_Collective) K2 (/wiki/K2_Sports) Kneissl (/wiki/Kneissl) Liberty Skis (/wiki/Liberty_Skis) Line Skis (/wiki/Line_Skis) Look Bindings (/wiki/Look_(company)) Madshus (/wiki/Madshus) Marker (/wiki/Marker_(ski_bindings)) Moment Skis (/wiki/Moment_Skis) Nordica (/wiki/Nordica_(company)) Peltonen (/wiki/Peltonen_(company)) Rossignol (/wiki/Skis_Rossignol) Salomon (/wiki/Salomon_Group) Skigo (/wiki/Skigo) Spyder (/wiki/Spyder_(ski_apparel_brand)) Swix (/wiki/Swix) Rottefella (/wiki/Rottefella) Völkl (/wiki/V%C3%B6lkl) Surf (/wiki/Surfing) Billabong (/wiki/Billabong_(clothing)) Haydenshapes (/wiki/Haydenshapes_Surfboards) Hurley (/wiki/Hurley_International) Mambo Quiksilver (/wiki/Quiksilver) Ocean Pacific (/wiki/Ocean_Pacific) O'Neill (/wiki/O%27Neill_(brand)) Oxbow (/wiki/Oxbow_(surfwear)) Rip Curl (/wiki/Rip_Curl) Swimming (/wiki/Swimming_(sport)) Arena (/wiki/Arena_(swimwear)) Speedo (/wiki/Speedo) TYR (/wiki/TYR_Sport) Zoggs (/wiki/Zoggs) Table tennis (/wiki/Table_tennis) Butterfly (/wiki/Butterfly_(brand)) Kettler (/wiki/Kettler) Killerspin (/wiki/Killerspin) Stiga Sports (/wiki/Stiga#Stiga_Sports) Tennis (/wiki/Tennis) / racket sports (/wiki/Racket_(sports_equipment)) Babolat (/wiki/Babolat) Carlton (/wiki/Carlton_Sports) Donnay (/wiki/Donnay_(sports)) Dunlop (/wiki/Dunlop_Sport) Ellesse (/wiki/Ellesse) Lacoste (/wiki/Lacoste) Prince (/wiki/Prince_Sports) ProKennex (/wiki/ProKennex) Sergio Tacchini (/wiki/Sergio_Tacchini) Snauwaert (/wiki/Snauwaert) Tecnifibre (/wiki/Tecnifibre) Volley 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First Lady of the United States from 2017 to 2021 Melania Trump Official portrait, 2017 First Lady of the United States (/wiki/First_Lady_of_the_United_States) In role January 20, 2017 – January 20, 2021 President Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) Preceded by Michelle Obama (/wiki/Michelle_Obama) Succeeded by Jill Biden (/wiki/Jill_Biden) Personal details Born Melanija Knavs ( 1970-04-26 ) April 26, 1970 (age 54) Novo Mesto (/wiki/Novo_Mesto) , SR Slovenia (/wiki/Socialist_Republic_of_Slovenia) , SFR Yugoslavia (/wiki/Socialist_Federal_Republic_of_Yugoslavia) Citizenship Yugoslavia (/wiki/Socialist_Federal_Republic_of_Yugoslavia) (1970–1991) Slovenia (/wiki/Slovenia) (1991–present) United States (/wiki/United_States) (2006–present) Spouse Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) ( m. 2005 ) Children Barron Trump (/wiki/Barron_Trump) Parent Amalija Knavs (/wiki/Amalija_Knavs) (mother) Residence Mar-a-Lago (/wiki/Mar-a-Lago) Signature Melania Trump's voice (/wiki/File:Melania_Trump_voice.ogg) Duration: 6 minutes and 48 seconds. 6:48 Trump on her family's departure from the White House Recorded January 18, 2021 Melania Trump (born Melanija Knavs ; [a] (#cite_note-1) April 26, 1970) is a Slovenian-American (/wiki/Slovene_Americans) former model who served as the first lady of the United States (/wiki/First_Lady_of_the_United_States) from 2017 to 2021 as the wife of former president Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) , the 45th president of the United States. She is the first naturalized citizen (/wiki/Naturalized_citizen) to become first lady and the second foreign-born first lady after Louisa Adams (/wiki/Louisa_Adams) . Melanija Knavs was born in Slovenia (then part of Yugoslavia (/wiki/Yugoslavia) ) where she began working as a fashion model (/wiki/Fashion_model) at the age of 16. She changed the spelling of her name to Melania Knauss, and she traveled to Milan and Paris to seek modeling work until she met Paolo Zampolli (/wiki/Paolo_Zampolli) , who hired her and sponsored her immigration to the United States in 1996. She continued working as a model in Manhattan, where Zampolli introduced her to the real estate developer (/wiki/Real_estate_developer) Donald Trump in 1998. They began dating, and she began adjusting to a more lavish lifestyle. He worked to get her more modeling jobs, and she supported him during his 2000 presidential campaign (/wiki/Donald_Trump_2000_presidential_campaign) . Melania and Donald Trump married in 2005, and they had a son, Barron Trump (/wiki/Barron_Trump) , the following year. She dedicated most of her time to Barron during his infancy, spending less time working or accompanying her husband at events. She started her own jewelry brand, Melania, in 2009. After encouraging Donald to run for president (/wiki/Donald_Trump_2016_presidential_campaign) in the 2016 presidential election (/wiki/2016_United_States_presidential_election) , Melania only made rare campaign appearances, opting to help Donald strategize over the phone. She received major press coverage during the campaign when erotic photos from her modeling years were uncovered and published, and again when a speech she gave at the 2016 Republican National Convention (/wiki/2016_Republican_National_Convention) was found to be plagiarized from a similar speech by Michelle Obama (/wiki/Michelle_Obama) . In the month leading up to the election, she responded to the Access Hollywood tape (/wiki/Donald_Trump_Access_Hollywood_tape) that had caused a scandal for her husband. Trump stayed in Manhattan for the first months of her tenure as first lady, allowing Barron to finish school and Melania to negotiate her prenuptial agreement (/wiki/Prenuptial_agreement) . Her stepdaughter Ivanka Trump (/wiki/Ivanka_Trump) fulfilled some of the first lady's traditional duties, causing a rivalry between the two. She kept to minimal activity after moving into the White House, often staying in the residence instead of her office in the East Wing (/wiki/East_Wing) , and she held fewer events than previous first ladies. 2018 saw several challenges for Melania, including allegations of extramarital affairs (/wiki/Stormy_Daniels%E2%80%93Donald_Trump_scandal) by her husband, surgery for kidney disease (/wiki/Kidney_disease) , and a tour of Africa that was overshadowed by scandals. During her tenure as first lady, Trump prioritized children's issues, launching the Be Best (/wiki/Be_Best) campaign to promote children's welfare and making many visits to children's hospitals. She opposed her husband's family separation policy (/wiki/Trump_administration_family_separation_policy) and convinced him to end the practice. She was a close advisor to her husband, the only person from whom he accepted frank advice, and he frequently asked her opinion. In the final months of her tenure, Trump endorsed her husband's false claims of election fraud (/wiki/Attempts_to_overturn_the_2020_United_States_presidential_election) in the 2020 presidential election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) , and has largely stayed out of public view since leaving the White House (/wiki/White_House) . Early life and education Melanija Knavs was born in Novo Mesto (/wiki/Novo_Mesto) , Yugoslavia (/wiki/Socialist_Federal_Republic_of_Yugoslavia) , now part of present-day Slovenia (/wiki/Slovenia) , on April 26, 1970. [1] (#cite_note-CollinsModel-2) [2] (#cite_note-3) Her father Viktor Knavs first worked as a chauffeur, and he eventually sold car parts for a state-owned vehicle manufacturer as he made connections with the League of Communists of Yugoslavia (/wiki/League_of_Communists_of_Yugoslavia) , the national communist party. [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201948–49-4) Her mother Amalija (/wiki/Amalija_Knavs) worked as a patternmaker (/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)) at the children's clothing manufacturer Jutranjka in Sevnica (/wiki/Sevnica) . [1] (#cite_note-CollinsModel-2) [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201951-5) In Sevnica, the family lived in the state-run housing complex Naselje Heroja Maroka. [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019336-6) She has an older sister, Ines, [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202056-7) and an older half-brother from her father's previous relationship, Denis Cigelnjak, whom she reportedly has never met. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202050-8) Her father denied paternity of the boy, even after it was confirmed by a paternity test (/wiki/Paternity_test) . Although Knauss's father was a member of Yugoslavia's communist party, which espoused a policy of state atheism (/wiki/State_atheism) , [8] (#cite_note-9) he had his daughters secretly baptized (/wiki/Baptism) as Catholic (/wiki/Catholic_Church_in_Slovenia) , as was common. [9] (#cite_note-10) [10] (#cite_note-11) The family was well-off relative to most who lived in communist societies. They frequently went on vacations to other parts of Europe. [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) Their apartment was decorated with brightly colored walls, which was a major departure from other apartments in the country. [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202050-8) As a child, Knavs and other children of workers at the factory participated in fashion shows that featured children's clothing. [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019337-13) [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201951-5) [13] (#cite_note-VanityFair-14) Textiles were Sevnica's primary industry. Students were excused from school to participate in the shows. [14] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202052–53-15) From a young age, Knavs expressed an interest in fashion, and she began customizing and sewing her own clothes. [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019336-6) She developed a skill for it by watching her mother work. [15] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201952-16) Knavs did well in school, where she was appointed school treasurer. [16] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202054-17) When Knavs was a teenager, she moved to a two-story house in Sevnica with her family. [17] (#cite_note-18) From her youth in Slovenia, Knavs was influenced by the United States: she described the presidency of Ronald Reagan (/wiki/Presidency_of_Ronald_Reagan) as the beginning of a new era in her own country and the debut of CNN International (/wiki/CNN_International) in 1985 gave her family access to American media. [18] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202055–57-19) At the age of fifteen, Knavs moved to Ljubljana (/wiki/Ljubljana) to attend the Secondary School for Design and Photography, attending the school until her graduation at nineteen. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019338-20) She made the long commute from her hometown to the capital and back each day by train. [20] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201953–54-21) After her first year, Melanija and Ines moved to the capital together. [21] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201954-22) After graduating, Knavs enrolled in the Faculty of Architecture and Civil and Geodetic Engineering at the University of Ljubljana (/wiki/University_of_Ljubljana) to further study design, leaving after a few months without taking her degree. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019338-20) [22] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201957-23) Early modeling career European career Knavs was discovered by Slovenian fashion photographer Stane Jerko when she was sixteen, after modeling in a school-sponsored show. [23] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201954–55-24) [24] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202057–60-25) At the time, she had wanted to be a fashion designer rather than a model. [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) Knavs won a modeling contest with the Italian studio Cinecittà (/wiki/Cinecitt%C3%A0) that entitled her to a movie role, but she rejected the prize after a producer sexually propositioned her. [25] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202061–63-26) As her modeling career progressed, Knavs took on an alternate spelling of her name, Melania Knauss. She traveled Europe to find modeling work. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019338-20) [26] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202063-27) Except a few close relatives, she did not maintain contact with anyone she knew in Slovenia. [27] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202025–26-28) In 1992, Knauss was named runner-up (/wiki/Runner-up) in the Jana Magazine Look of the Year (/wiki/Elite_Model_Look) contest, which promised its top three contestants an international modeling contract. [1] (#cite_note-CollinsModel-2) [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019338-20) [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) She signed with RVR Reclame in Milan, but she left the organization a few months later. [28] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202067–69-29) Knauss spent the following years traveling Europe for modeling jobs, including one in which she portrayed the first female president of the United States in 1993. [29] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202072–73-30) Around age 23 or 24, her career was successful enough that she could make Paris her primary residence, where she lived with her roommate Victoria Silvstedt (/wiki/Victoria_Silvstedt) . [30] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202076–77-31) Knauss modeled for fashion houses in Paris and Milan, where in 1995 she met Metropolitan Models co-owner Paolo Zampolli (/wiki/Paolo_Zampolli) , a friend of her future husband Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) , who was on a scouting trip in Europe. [13] (#cite_note-VanityFair-14) Zampolli became one of the few people who was involved in Knauss's life long-term. [31] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202083-32) Relocating to New York Zampolli urged Knauss to travel to the United States, where he said he would like to represent her. [13] (#cite_note-VanityFair-14) In 1996, Knauss moved to Manhattan. [13] (#cite_note-VanityFair-14) [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) By this time, she was already 26 years old, much older than most aspiring models. [32] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201959-33) Zampolli encouraged Knauss to live near and socialize with people in the fashion industry, [33] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019334-34) and he arranged for her to share an apartment with photographer Matthew Atanian in Zeckendorf Towers (/wiki/Zeckendorf_Towers) in Union Square (/wiki/Union_Square,_Manhattan) . [34] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202081–82-35) [13] (#cite_note-VanityFair-14) Her rent was taken from her pay with Zampolli's agency. [35] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201963-36) Once she arrived in the United States, she returned to her home country only sparingly and only for short periods of time. [36] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019335-37) She lived a healthy lifestyle, managing her diet carefully, [37] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201964-38) and she avoided the drinking and partying that often consumed the lives of the models around her. [38] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202086–89-39) She did not lead an active social life and only went out on rare occasions. [38] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202086–89-39) [37] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201964-38) Knauss was featured in a sexually explicit photo shoot for a 1997 issue of Max (/wiki/Max_(French_magazine)) , a French men's magazine with another female model. The photos were shot by the photographer Alexandre Ale de Basseville, and the work was unpaid, instead promising Knauss exposure in a prominent magazine. The photos were largely forgotten until they were published by the New York Post in 2016. [39] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202089–92-40) For her first weeks in the United States, her travel visa (/wiki/Travel_visa) did not allow her to work in the country. Despite this, she accepted ten modeling jobs that earned her approximately $20,000. She then received an H-1B visa (/wiki/H-1B_visa) that allowed her to work. [33] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019334-34) She received her first major gig when she posed for a Camel cigarette (/wiki/Camel_(cigarette)) ad shot by Ellen von Unwerth (/wiki/Ellen_von_Unwerth) , which was displayed as a Times Square (/wiki/Times_Square) billboard and ran in Rolling Stone . The opportunity came about from a law that required cigarette ads only feature individuals above the age of 25, which excluded most aspiring models. [40] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202095–96-41) When her roommate Atanian left New York, Knauss moved to an apartment off of Park Avenue (/wiki/Park_Avenue) . [41] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202097-42) Marriage and family Meeting Donald Trump Donald Trump and Melania Knauss in 1999 In September 1998, Zampolli introduced Knauss to the real estate mogul Donald Trump at a party. [42] (#cite_note-43) Trump had a date to the event, Celina Midelfart (/wiki/Celina_Midelfart) . When he asked Knauss for her phone number, she refused. Instead, she insisted that he give her his own number. He passed her test when he gave her multiple personal numbers instead of an office number. [43] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020109-44) [44] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201966-45) She later said that giving her own number would make her "just one of the women he calls". [43] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020109-44) The exact details of when and where this took place are unclear, though the Kit Kat Club is often described as where they met. [45] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020109–110-46) After a week, Knauss called Trump and they went on a date. [46] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201966–67-47) She intentionally gave him an indifferent attitude to his advances, knowing this would pique his interest. [47] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020112-48) Not only was Trump's personality similar to that of Knauss's father, [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019337-13) [48] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202048-49) [49] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201972-50) but they were of similar ages and had similar physical appearances. [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) [48] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202048-49) [50] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201967,_72-51) When they began dating, Knauss had access to his book Trump: The Art of the Comeback , in which he detailed what he wanted from a relationship. [51] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202029–30-52) [52] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201993–94-53) Knauss held a press conference on September 8, spending the event recounting her successes and telling reporters that she was "world famous", "among the top 50" highest paid models in the world, and set to appear in a movie alongside Mickey Rourke (/wiki/Mickey_Rourke) . [53] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202099–102-54) The intention was to build her profile in anticipation of another, ultimately unsuccessful, cigarette ad campaign. [54] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020106–107-55) This was unusual behavior for a woman who typically kept a quiet and professional presence, [55] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020108-56) and reporters were unable to verify the claims she made. [56] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020101,_104–105-57) The Trumps have stated that they met at the New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) shortly after this conference, though others in the industry have said rumors about their relationship had already developed by then. [55] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020108-56) Their relationship initially only lasted a few weeks. Knauss left Trump after she saw his ex-girlfriend Kara Young (/wiki/Kara_Young) leaving Trump Tower, but Knauss and Trump reunited the following week. [57] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201968-58) Relationship with Donald Trump Dating Trump brought several benefits for Knauss. His fame and connections gave her new career opportunities, and at the time he had a reputation for being more respectful to the women he associated with relative to other men who mingled with supermodels. [58] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020113-59) Knauss experienced such a benefit that October when she had the opportunity to meet the Kennedys (/wiki/Kennedy_family) at a gala—their mother Jacqueline Kennedy (/wiki/Jacqueline_Kennedy) , who had died shortly before, had been deeply admired by Knauss and her mother. [59] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020114-60) She encountered many other world famous celebrities while attending events with Trump. [60] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020115,_118–119-61) Knauss continued her modeling career after meeting Donald Trump, [13] (#cite_note-VanityFair-14) though she took fewer jobs as time went on and she dedicated more time to him. [61] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201974-62) In 1999, the couple gained attention after an interview with shock jock Howard Stern (/wiki/Howard_Stern) on his show, in which he asked them lewd sexual questions. [62] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020141–144-63) Trump often brought Knauss to meetings to show her off, praising her beauty. He did not let her participate in the business, citing the conflict he had with his first wife after giving her an executive role. [63] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020199–200-64) Melania Knauss with Kylie Bax (/wiki/Kylie_Bax) , Trump, and then-president Bill Clinton (/wiki/Bill_Clinton) in 2000 Trump announced his candidacy (/wiki/Donald_Trump_2000_presidential_campaign) for the Reform Party presidential nomination (/wiki/2000_Reform_Party_presidential_primaries) on October 7, 1999. Knauss adamantly supported the move. [64] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020128–129-65) When asked by The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) what her role would be if Trump were to become president, Knauss replied: "I would be very traditional, like Betty Ford (/wiki/Betty_Ford) or Jackie Kennedy". [65] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020144–145-66) Knauss saw extensive media attention as tabloids considered the idea of a model as first lady. [66] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020139–140-67) Knauss was one of the first models recruited to Trump's modeling agency, Trump Model Management (/wiki/Trump_Model_Management) , after its creation in February 1999. The following months, she appeared in several magazines and advertisements organized by individuals close to Trump. [67] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020119–123-68) While Trump was organizing his campaign, Knauss appeared the February Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue . The image featured her in a bikini alongside a large inflatable whale, and the shoot was run by Antoine Verglas (/wiki/Antoine_Verglas) , an associate of Zampolli's. [68] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020129–130-69) Shortly after the shoot, Verglas called Knauss back for another project where he had her pose nude in a Bond girl (/wiki/Bond_girl) aesthetic. [69] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020132–135-70) Trump had lobbied for her inclusion in a GQ (/wiki/GQ) spread, [70] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201974–75-71) and her relationship with Trump allowed the shoot access to Trump's Boeing 727 (/wiki/Boeing_727) . Images from the shoot were featured in the January edition of GQ magazine. [69] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020132–135-70) At the time, Trump's involvement was not made known. [33] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019334-34) She then appeared in another sexualized photo shoot where she was posted in a mock up of the Oval Office (/wiki/Oval_Office) . [71] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201978–79-72) In January 2000, news broke that Knauss and Trump broke up, with conflicting accounts of who ended the relationship. Many photos and publicity pieces the two had done together were quickly edited before publication to accommodate the change. [72] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020151–156-73) They kept in contact, and they reunited a few months later. [73] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201980-74) Knauss received her green card (/wiki/Green_card) in 2001, granting her permanent residency (/wiki/Permanent_residency) in the United States. [33] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019334-34) [1] (#cite_note-CollinsModel-2) Knauss and Trump moved in together at Trump Tower in 2002. [74] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201981-75) She made her first appearance on Trump's game show The Apprentice in April 2004 when an episode had the contestants visit their penthouse. [75] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201983-76) Engagement and wedding Trump proposed to Knauss on April 26, 2004, on her birthday as they were leaving to attend the Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) . [76] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201986–87-77) He reasoned that he was more willing to wed as she had not insisted on marriage, and he felt she was an influence in the success he had seen over the previous years. [77] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201984-78) Knauss was more compatible with Trump than his previous wives, as she did not have the ambition of his first wife and did not cause public drama like his second wife. Knauss fulfilled his desire for a wife who was self-confident but supported him silently. [78] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201983–87-79) She also signed his prenuptual agreement (/wiki/Prenuptual_agreement) without issue. [79] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201991-80) A few months before the wedding, Knauss traveled to Paris with Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) and André Leon Talley (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Leon_Talley) to find a wedding dress, and Knauss decided on a dress by John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) . [80] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019100-81) In the days leading up to the wedding, she appeared on the front cover of Vogue in her dress. [81] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019101-82) [82] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020178–179-83) Trump and Knauss married on January 22, 2005, at the Bethesda-by-the-Sea (/wiki/Bethesda-by-the-Sea) church in Palm Beach, Florida (/wiki/Palm_Beach,_Florida) . [83] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020176-84) The ceremony was followed by a reception in the ballroom (/wiki/Ballroom) at Donald's Mar-a-Lago (/wiki/Mar-a-Lago) estate, which Melania planned with Preston Bailey (/w/index.php?title=Preston_Bailey_(wedding_planner)&action=edit&redlink=1) . [84] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201996–97-85) Numerous celebrities were present, including musicians, athletes, media executives, and television personalities. [85] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020176–177-86) She had one bridesmaid (/wiki/Bridesmaid) , her sister Ines, who had moved to New York so they could be closer together. [36] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019335-37) Knauss arranged all of the details of the wedding with her planner. She let Trump make decisions about the event, but she refused his suggestion that the wedding be broadcast on NBC (/wiki/NBC) . [86] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020177–178-87) Marriage and motherhood Melania and Donald Trump in 2006 The Trumps had three residences (/wiki/Residences_of_Donald_Trump) that they traveled between: Trump Tower (/wiki/Trump_Tower) in New York, Trump National Golf Club Bedminster (/wiki/Trump_National_Golf_Club_Bedminster) in New Jersey, and Mar-a-Lago in Florida. [36] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019335-37) [87] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020185-88) To have her own private abode, Melania had a private spa constructed on the top floor of Trump Tower. [87] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020185-88) As a couple, the two did not spend much direct time together, preferring to live adjacently with one another. [88] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020210–213-89) According to Trump, their passive relationship suited him because he worked for a living and didn't "want to go home and work at a relationship". [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) [89] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201987–88-90) Melania accepted a transaction element in their relationship, though she cared about Donald and did not believe that she was a gold digger (/wiki/Gold_digger) . [90] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201992–93-91) When she attended events with her husband at Trump facilities, she often stayed for only a few minutes to make an appearance before returning to the private residence. [91] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020214-92) Donald did not learn to speak Melania's native language, which she said she accepted because she is "not a nagging wife". [1] (#cite_note-CollinsModel-2) Upon marrying Donald, Melania became stepmother to his four children: Donald Trump Jr. (/wiki/Donald_Trump_Jr.) , Eric Trump (/wiki/Eric_Trump) and Ivanka Trump (/wiki/Ivanka_Trump) from his first marriage to Ivana Zelníčková (/wiki/Ivana_Trump) , and Tiffany Trump (/wiki/Tiffany_Trump) from his second marriage to Marla Maples (/wiki/Marla_Maples) . [92] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020183-93) Melania had especially bonded with Tiffany, who was six when Melania began dating Tiffany's father, and made sure she felt included among her step-siblings. [93] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201973-94) When Melania herself became pregnant, it was widely covered in the media. [94] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019110–111-95) This included her second appearance on the cover of Vogue , featuring her pregnant body in a bikini and an open coat. [95] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019113–114-96) Melania spent the months with her sister, who had moved to New York, and her parents, who visited throughout the pregnancy. She also oversaw the construction of a nursery in Trump Tower. [96] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019112-97) She had a baby shower at the FAO Schwarz (/wiki/FAO_Schwarz) toy store, but she insisted that the toys and gifts she received be donated to a children's hospital. [97] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019114-98) On March 20, 2006, Donald and Melania had a son, Barron William Trump (/wiki/Barron_Trump) . [98] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020183–184-99) Melania chose her son's middle name, while Donald chose his first name. [99] (#cite_note-Schneider1May-100) Donald had previously used the name Barron as a pseudonym for when he posed as his own public relations agent. [100] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019114–115-101) After Barron was born, Melania was active in his life and accordingly spent less time attending events with her husband. [101] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020184-102) [102] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019118-103) Donald had made it clear to her that if they had a child, he would not be actively involved in the child's life. [102] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019118-103) Melania later said she approved of this, stating that she "didn't want him changing diapers or putting Barron to bed". [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) She avoided the use of nannies, with a few exceptions in Barron's earliest years, insisting on raising him herself. [103] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201924,_117-104) This lessened social activity meant that Donald began courting supermodels again, which made Melania uncomfortable, though she did not know about the women who later alleged that they had extramarital affairs with him. [104] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020184–185-105) Melania stayed out of the public spotlight after she settled into her life as a Trump, excepting occasional charity work and an appearance in an Aflac (/wiki/Aflac) commercial. [105] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019125-106) She became a citizen of the United States on July 28, 2006. [106] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020186-107) She then sponsored her parents using the " chain migration (/wiki/Chain_migration) " immigration process that her husband later repeatedly criticized. [107] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020193–194-108) [108] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019112–113-109) Besides her American citizenship, both she and her son maintain dual citizenship (/wiki/Multiple_citizenship) in Slovenia. [109] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020191–192-110) Spending most of her time at Trump residences, she rarely kept companions besides her parents and her son. [91] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020214-92) When she was with her husband, they watched films together, including their favorite films Gone with the Wind and Sunset Boulevard . [110] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020224-111) Business ventures Melania Trump in 2011 As her son reached childhood, Melania found herself with more time for other pursuits. [111] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019125–126-112) She trademarked her name, Melania, in 2009 as a jewelry brand, which she used to sell less expensive jewelry pieces on QVC (/wiki/QVC) . [112] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020200–201-113) She was intentional about not using the Trump name in her branding, correcting reporters who called it Melania Trump. [113] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019126–127-114) She drew the designs herself, [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) which were based on three places where she had lived: New York, Palm Beach, and Paris. Over the following years, she released additional Melania collections, and they sold out each time. [113] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019126–127-114) Melania then introduced a line of caviar (/wiki/Caviar) -infused skincare products under the brand Melania Marks Skincare in 2011. [114] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020204–205-115) The brand never launched. It brought about a legal case when the company selling the products, New Sunshine, underwent management changes and voided the contract. The company alleged that one executive had given a sweetheart deal (/wiki/Sweetheart_deal) to the Trumps because he was a family friend. The case was decided in Trump's favor, and the amount to be paid to her was settled out of court. [115] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020207–209-116) She had initially sued the company for $50 million in lost revenue. [116] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019128-117) Rededicating herself to parenting, Melania eventually ended the production of her jewelry brand. [116] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019128-117) Donald Trump 2016 presidential campaign Personal life during the campaign Melania was the one who finally convinced Donald to campaign for president (/wiki/Donald_Trump_2016_presidential_campaign) in the 2016 presidential election (/wiki/2016_United_States_presidential_election) , telling him that he either needed to do it or stop talking about it. [117] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202022-118) [118] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201920–22-119) When the campaign began, Melania made it clear to her husband that she would not be pressured into campaigning or attending events, and that she would only make appearances when she wanted to. She subsequently played a relatively small role in the campaign, which had been atypical of spouses of presidential candidates since the early 20th century. [119] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201923-120) Explaining her absence, she cited the need to stay home with her son Barron. [120] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019339-121) [121] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEElderFrederickBurrell2018108-122) Her daily routine was nonetheless altered by the campaign, as she had to take security arrangements into account when she traveled, and she could not post about her activities online in real time. [122] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019120–121-123) Once a prolific user of Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) and Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) , she became less active on her social media accounts when the campaign began. [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) While many people doubted Donald's chances at the presidency, including his own inner circle, Melania believed he would win. [123] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan20203–4-124) [124] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201922-125) Unlike Donald's advisors, Melania encouraged him to follow his instincts and say what he felt he should say, with the exception that she does not like his use of profane language. [125] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020227–228-126) She analyzed the campaign closely from home, following polling and watching how her husband interacted with his opponents. [126] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201927-127) She spoke to him on the phone regularly throughout the campaign, including a conversation after each rally in which she gave a candid evaluation of how he did. [127] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020224,_226-128) Campaign involvement Melania at a campaign event with Donald and Barron in November 2015 Melania Trump's career as a model was an advantage during the campaign, as she was prepared for photographers and did not need to hire a fashion consultant. [19] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019338-20) As a model, she was required to be deliberate in all of her movement, including how she stood and walked. [128] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202018-129) She resented being called shy during the campaign, saying that this was an impression spread by people who only briefly met her and wanted their " 15 minutes of fame (/wiki/15_minutes_of_fame) ". [129] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020222–223-130) Melania's earliest speaking appearances in November 2015 and February 2016 were prompted by Donald calling on her to speak to the crowd. Both times, she only said a few sentences. [130] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201925–26-131) Her first scheduled speech during the campaign did not take place until April 2016. [121] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEElderFrederickBurrell2018108-122) The campaign longed to get Melania more active, as she was in a unique position to humanize Donald and to appeal to the American Dream (/wiki/American_Dream) from an immigrant's perspective. [131] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201924–25,_42-132) Hope Hicks (/wiki/Hope_Hicks) was the campaign's main liaison with Melania, facilitating any appearances that she wished to make. Melania trusted Hicks's judgement and allowed her to weigh the importance of a given appearance. [132] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201928-133) Her rare appearances brought her to swing states (/wiki/Swing_states) where her husband needed extra support, and her speeches celebrated his personal traits instead of policy. [120] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019339-121) Melania Trump was involved in the vice presidential selection process (/wiki/2016_Republican_Party_vice_presidential_candidate_selection) , meeting with the top contenders, and her approval of Mike Pence (/wiki/Mike_Pence) contributed to his selection. The deciding factor, in her mind, was that Pence was not as ambitious as the other contenders and would not seek to undermine Donald. [133] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202042–43-134) She did not get along as well with Pence's wife, Karen Pence (/wiki/Karen_Pence) , with whom she had little in common. [134] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201939-135) Media coverage Melania Trump in 2016 An attack ad (/wiki/Attack_ad) against the Trumps was produced by super PAC (/wiki/Super_PAC) that supported Donald's opponent Ted Cruz (/wiki/Ted_Cruz) featuring Melania's nude GQ photo with the caption "Meet Melania Trump. Your next first lady. Or you could support Ted Cruz on Tuesday", intensifying the rivalry between the two candidates in the 2016 Republican Party presidential primaries (/wiki/2016_Republican_Party_presidential_primaries) . [120] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019339-121) [135] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201977-136) [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) More scandalous nude images of Melania were published on the front page of the New York Post in July 2016 in a story titled "The Ogle Office". The images did not have a major effect on the campaign, as Melania was seen as the victim, but they were humiliating and she spent the following two months away from the public. [136] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201929–31-137) On July 18, 2016, Melania Trump gave a speech (/wiki/Melania_Trump_speech_plagiarism_controversy) at the 2016 Republican National Convention (/wiki/2016_Republican_National_Convention) . A controversy emerged after it became apparent that a paragraph of the speech had been plagiarized from Michelle Obama (/wiki/Michelle_Obama) 's speech at the 2008 Democratic National Convention (/wiki/2008_Democratic_National_Convention) . [137] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019340-138) [138] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20197–8-139) When asked about it, Melania said she wrote the speech herself "with as little help as possible". [139] (#cite_note-140) No one in the Trump campaign had previewed the speech, when political campaigns typically have several people scrutinize such a speech. [140] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20198-141) Donald was furious with his staff and felt he had failed Melania, while Melania took the gaffe personally and felt she had failed the campaign. [141] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201911–12-142) It was the only major speech she delivered during the campaign. [142] (#cite_note-143) Two days later, Trump staff writer Meredith McIver (/wiki/Meredith_McIver) took responsibility, saying there was a misunderstanding when Melania read passages of Obama's speech as examples. [137] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019340-138) [143] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201915–16-144) The speech also included a rare statement on her past, describing her family in Slovenia and her early modeling career. [140] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20198-141) After giving the speech, Melania stayed out of public view until election day approached. [144] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEElderFrederickBurrell2018110-145) Access Hollywood tape On October 7, a month before the election, the Access Hollywood tape (/wiki/Donald_Trump_Access_Hollywood_tape) was leaked. The tape had been recorded in 2005, shortly after their marriage, and it featured audio of Donald making controversial remarks about his treatment of women. Immediately after its release, the campaign's primary concern was Melania's reaction. An anonymous person who was with Donald when the news broke reported that "red was coming up his neck to his ears". It took him two hours before he went to see Melania. Upon their meeting, Melania reportedly told him "Now you could lose, you could have blown this for us", and then left the room after he apologized. [145] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan20201–3-146) In 2024, her husband's former personal counsel Michael Cohen (/wiki/Michael_Cohen_(lawyer)) testified during The People of the State of New York v. Donald J. Trump (/wiki/The_People_of_the_State_of_New_York_v._Donald_J._Trump) trial that Donald Trump had privately credited her as having suggested the campaign's response strategy of characterizing the conversation on the tape as "locker room talk". [146] (#cite_note-147) Melania kept her distance from him, angry that he may have ended his candidacy with his comments, and she waited a day before making a comment. [147] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201934–35-148) When asked by the campaign to make a scripted appearance alongside Donald as damage control, she refused, deciding that she was going to respond her own way. [148] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan20204-149) She also refused to sit beside him during his recorded apology as politicians' spouses often did in these situations. [149] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201935-150) Melania released a statement saying that the tape did not show "the man I know" and said those who accused him of sexual misconduct (/wiki/Donald_Trump_sexual_misconduct_allegations) are liars. [137] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019340-138) Melania received significantly more attention from the press following the incident, [150] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan20207-151) and she was frustrated by the pity she received. [148] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan20204-149) A few days later, she attended a presidential debate (/wiki/2016_United_States_presidential_debates) wearing a pussy bow (/wiki/Pussy_bow) , causing widespread speculation about her intention (as her husband's comments on the Access Hollywood tape had included, "grab them by the pussy (/wiki/Pussy) "–with pussy being slang (/wiki/Slang) for vagina (/wiki/Vagina) ). [151] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201932-152) [150] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan20207-151) After she voted, Melania spent most of election day with her parents in Trump Tower while the rest of the family did last minute campaigning. [152] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201945-153) First lady of the United States (2017–2021) First lady in Manhattan With Donald, Liberty Ball, January 20, 2017 The inauguration of Donald Trump (/wiki/Inauguration_of_Donald_Trump) took place on January 20, 2017. [153] (#cite_note-:0-154) After her husband was elected president, she announced that she would not move to Washington, D.C. (/wiki/Washington,_D.C.) with him, instead staying in Manhattan so Barron could finish the school year there. [154] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019341-155) This also allowed her to introduce him to the White House gradually so as not to overwhelm him. [155] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019144-156) During this time, Melania negotiated new terms for her prenuptial agreement (/wiki/Prenuptial_agreement) with Donald to reflect the changes in their lives since it was signed and to ensure that Barron received a suitable inheritance. [156] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202034-157) Melania Trump was the second foreign-born woman to hold the title of first lady after Louisa Adams (/wiki/Louisa_Adams) , who was born in England, [153] (#cite_note-:0-154) and Melania was the first naturalized citizen (/wiki/Naturalized_citizen) to hold the title. [157] (#cite_note-158) Trump has said that she can speak English, Italian, French, and German in addition to her native Slovene, but she has only been heard speaking English and Slovene fluently. When communicating with speakers of other languages, she makes use of a translator. [158] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020238–241-159) She was also the first Catholic (/wiki/Catholic) to live in the White House since President John F. Kennedy (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy) and his wife Jacqueline and was the second Catholic first lady of the United States. [159] (#cite_note-Sieczkowski-160) [160] (#cite_note-catholicherald.co.uk-161) The first lady's absence caused speculation that her stepdaughter Ivanka would serve as an acting first lady. [154] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019341-155) [161] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202030-162) [162] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019161-163) This was part of a larger rivalry that developed between the two as they both engaged in activity typically in the first lady's purview. After Ivanka organized a screening of Finding Dory (/wiki/Finding_Dory) in the White House, Melania required that they needed permission before entering the residential area of the building. [163] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBakerGlasser202226–27-164) As time went by, the administration's staff grew unhappy with Melania's absence, as it gave the impression of marital issues and prevented her from exercising a calming influence over the president. [164] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202034–35-165) [165] (#cite_note-:1-166) She also stoked resentment among the people in New York, who predominantly opposed the Trumps, because of the costs and traffic issues caused by the Secret Service (/wiki/United_States_Secret_Service) presence. [166] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202036-167) [167] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019144–145-168) The Secret Service itself also faced logistical issues from the repeated travel to New York. Having a Secret Service detail was not a major adjustment for Melania though, as she had spent years around her husband's security team. [168] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019134-169) She was given the Secret Service code name (/wiki/Secret_Service_code_name) "Muse" to go along with the president's name "Mogul". [169] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019137-170) Being first lady came with another drawback for Melania, as she was expected to speak on serious topics such as immigration policy and had little control over how her media appearances were handled, which was a different experience than she had as a model. [170] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202037-171) Melania Trump with Pope Francis, the Vatican, May 2017 When the Trump administration's White House website (/wiki/White_House_website) was posted, Melania's biographical information caused controversy because it listed her jewelry business. Though it had already ceased operation, critics alleged that it was an attempt to promote her business with government resources. [171] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019128–129-172) Another allegation of attempting to profit from her role as first lady came up in February, when she sued the Daily Mail (/wiki/Daily_Mail) for libel after it alleged in 2016 that she had worked for an escort agency (/wiki/Escort_agency) . [172] (#cite_note-Puente-173) The suit was initially for lost career opportunities, but this was changed to emotional distress when she received questions about why she expected to have career opportunities as first lady. [173] (#cite_note-174) On March 8, 2017, Trump hosted her first White House event, a luncheon for International Women's Day (/wiki/International_Women%27s_Day) . She spoke to an audience of women about her life as a female immigrant and about working towards gender equality (/wiki/Gender_equality) both domestically and abroad, noting the role of education as a tool against gender inequality (/wiki/Gender_inequality) . [174] (#cite_note-175) [175] (#cite_note-176) The Trumps visited Vatican City (/wiki/Vatican_City) in May 2017. As Melania was visiting as a Catholic, Pope Francis (/wiki/Pope_Francis) blessed her rosary beads, and she placed flowers at the feet of a statue of the Madonna (/wiki/Mary,_mother_of_Jesus) at the Vatican's Bambino Gesù (/wiki/Bambino_Ges%C3%B9_Hospital) children's hospital. [176] (#cite_note-177) The first major public attention Melania received was after an incident in May 2017 while the Trumps were visiting Israel. Donald had forgotten that Melania was by his side when he was walking with Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu (/wiki/Benjamin_Netanyahu) , and she fell behind from the group. Humiliated, she slapped away his hand when he reached out behind him to grab hers. This was the first time press coverage of Melania took notice of an independent streak. [177] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019257–262-178) [178] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBakerGlasser2022145-179) East Wing staff The lack of staff appointments in the East Wing (/wiki/East_Wing) during the first months of the Trump administration—typically the domain of the first lady—caused a backlog of tour requests to develop. In February several hires were made for the Office of the First Lady (/wiki/Office_of_the_First_Lady_of_the_United_States) : Anna Cristina Niceta Lloyd (/wiki/Anna_Cristina_Niceta_Lloyd) as social secretary, Lindsay Reynolds (/wiki/Lindsay_Reynolds) as the first lady's chief of staff, Tham Kannalikham (/w/index.php?title=Tham_Kannalikham&action=edit&redlink=1) as her decorator, Stephanie Winston Wolkoff (/wiki/Stephanie_Winston_Wolkoff) as the first lady's assistant, and Stephanie Grisham (/wiki/Stephanie_Grisham) as communications director. [179] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019341–342-180) Melania retained the head florist appointed by Michelle Obama, Hedieh Ghaffarian (/w/index.php?title=Hedieh_Ghaffarian&action=edit&redlink=1) . [180] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019138-181) The chief usher (/wiki/White_House_Chief_Usher) appointed under the Obama administration (/wiki/Obama_administration) , Angella Reid (/wiki/Angella_Reid) , was replaced by Trump International Hotel (/wiki/Trump_International_Hotel_(Washington_D.C.)) employee Timothy Harleth (/wiki/Timothy_Harleth) , breaking the norm of the chief usher serving under multiple presidencies. [179] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019341–342-180) Reid had been unpopular with the staff, and the firing earned Melania their goodwill. [181] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019139–140-182) The first lady's staff remained small relative to those of her predecessors. [179] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019341–342-180) This was in part because she did not want to have any employees speaking on her behalf. Instead, she answered her correspondences herself. [182] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019156-183) Melania had a reputation in the White House for being "drama-free", [183] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020251-184) and for treating the staff well. [184] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019139-185) According to her husband's campaign manager Corey Lewandowski (/wiki/Corey_Lewandowski) , her staff had "100 percent loyalty to her". [185] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020243-186) Melania had a close, trusting relationship with her staff, and she was protective of them when conflict arose. [186] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019185185–186-187) Before moving in, Melania worked with Kannalikham to redecorate the White House, as first ladies typically do. She had most of the Obama-era decor replaced, and like the Obamas, the Trumps paid for it out of pocket instead of using the allotted funding. [187] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019211–212-188) Life in the White House Melania Trump with Argentine first lady Juliana Awada (/wiki/Juliana_Awada) in 2017 Trump and her son, Barron, moved into the White House (/wiki/White_House) on June 11, 2017. [188] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202044-189) Like they had throughout their marriage, Melania and Donald chose to sleep in separate bedrooms. [189] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019208-190) In her first year, Melania gave only eight speeches, compared to 74 by Michelle Obama and 42 by Laura Bush (/wiki/Laura_Bush) . [190] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020244-191) Instead of frequent public appearances, she communicated her activities through video. [185] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020243-186) Most of Trump's appearances as first lady in 2017 were in Manhattan and Washington, and she typically spoke about women's and children's issues. [191] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019342-192) After moving to the White House, Melania opted to spend most of her time in the private quarters, running the White House staff from there instead of the first lady's East Wing offices. She oversaw restorations of several rooms in the building, including the bowling alley in the White House basement (/wiki/White_House_basement) and the first lady's hairdresser's room. [192] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020241–242-193) She kept one office, called the "swag room" by aides, in which she kept trinkets she collected while she was first lady. [193] (#cite_note-:2-194) To accommodate Barron's soccer practice, she had a net installed on the White House grounds and had a coach practice with him. [194] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020255-195) Barron remained Melania's top priority when she was first lady, and she worked to keep him free from politics to the point that staffers referred to her as "The Protector". [195] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020271-196) Even after arriving at the White House, Melania spent extensive time away each year, visiting Mar-a-Lago on major holidays and over many weekends. [196] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019156–157-197) Melania Trump examining the 2018 White House Christmas decorations Melania personally involved herself in decorations and planning within the White House. [197] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019142-198) She was particular about how things were designed and arranged whenever events were planned, but she would take on a calm and relaxed demeanor once the event began. [198] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019105-199) Whenever a foreign dignitary arrived at the White House, Melania had the Blue Room (/wiki/Blue_Room_(White_House)) set aside where she ate lunch or drank tea with the dignitary's spouse. [199] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019150-200) When choosing which presidential china set (/wiki/White_House_china) to use, Melania often chose the Clinton administration (/wiki/Clinton_administration) china with its gold embroidery. [200] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019151-201) She held events less frequently than her predecessors, with a typical week featuring three or fewer events, all under one hour long. [201] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019157-202) Among her most ambitious projects was planning the White House Christmas decorations in 2018. Moving away from traditional designs, she filled the East Collonnade with red cranberry-laden trees set atop a green carpet. The design was widely derided, which Melania ascribed to personal taste. [202] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019142–144-203) To protect use of her image and maintain an income, Melania licensed photos from her photoshoots through Getty Images (/wiki/Getty_Images) . This allowed her to choose how they were used by reporters, and she received royalties for each use. The Office of Government Ethics (/wiki/United_States_Office_of_Government_Ethics) reported that she made $100,000 to $1,000,000 in royalties in 2017, though other estimates put it at over $10,000,000. [203] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019130-204) As first lady, Trump was the honorary chair of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy_Center_for_the_Performing_Arts) . She was unable to fulfill this duty for much of her tenure, as her husband's presidency had alienated many in the media and art communities. She made her first appearances at the Kennedy Center in 2019. [204] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020237–238-205) Tribulations in early 2018 A scandal broke in January 2018 when it was alleged that Donald had had an extramarital affair (/wiki/Stormy_Daniels%E2%80%93Donald_Trump_scandal) with the pornographic actress Stormy Daniels (/wiki/Stormy_Daniels) . The affair was said to have taken place in July 2006, after the Trumps' marriage and the birth of their son. Melania's public appearances became more infrequent after the news emerged, and she canceled several events that she was to attend with her husband. [205] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019343–344-206) This included the 2018 State of the Union Address (/wiki/2018_State_of_the_Union_Address) , where Melania made the unprecedented decision to ride separately from him on the way there. [206] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019194–195-207) Michael Cohen, who had arranged the silencing of the alleged affair, stated that his greatest regret was lying to Melania, saying that she didn't deserve it. [207] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202011-208) The next month, the story of a second affair in 2006 with the model Karen McDougal (/wiki/Karen_McDougal) was made public. [205] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019343–344-206) [208] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019202-209) To Melania, the worst part was that she felt Donald had publicly humiliated her. [209] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019196–197-210) [165] (#cite_note-:1-166) Left to right: Brigitte Macron (/wiki/Brigitte_Macron) , Melania Trump, Emmanuel Macron (/wiki/Emmanuel_Macron) , Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) Melania learned in April 2018 that she was afflicted with kidney disease (/wiki/Kidney_disease) , but she only told her parents, her husband, and her sister. [210] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019215–216-211) On May 14, she began treatment at Walter Reed National Military Medical Center (/wiki/Walter_Reed_National_Military_Medical_Center) . [211] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019218–219-212) While her husband had wished to join her, his presence would have risked the press discovering her condition. [212] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019218-213) The official statement said that she underwent an embolization (/wiki/Embolization) , a minimally invasive procedure (/wiki/Minimally_invasive_procedure) that deliberately blocks a blood vessel. [213] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019220-214) [213] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019220-214) A statement was released after the procedure was finished without complication, [211] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019218–219-212) and she recovered in the hospital over the following five days. [214] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019345-215) The extended stay led to false rumors and conspiracy theories that she had gotten plastic surgery (/wiki/Plastic_surgery) . [215] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019346-216) [216] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019220–221-217) After leaving the hospital, she continued to stay out of the public eye until the beginning of June. [217] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019222–223-218) At this point, the president let slip that the surgery had been more serious than initially suggested. [218] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019224-219) Those around Melania noticed that she was generally happier by mid-2018. By this time, she had reached a more advantageous marital agreement that ensured Barron would be given a fair inheritance. [219] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020234-220) Her public position, and the corresponding influence she had over her husband's political career, had given her the advantage in negotiations. [220] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020236-221) After several months of problems, Melania received positive coverage for a large custom-made white hat that she wore during a visit by French president Emmanuel Macron (/wiki/Emmanuel_Macron) . [221] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019226–230-222) On August 9, 2018, Melania's parents were granted American citizenship. This revitalized accusations of hypocrisy by the Trumps regarding Melania's parents, as Donald had spoken out against the chain migration process that allowed them to enter the United States. [222] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019347-223) 2018 Africa tour Melania Trump wearing a pith helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet) in Kenya In October 2018, Melania took a tour of Africa without Donald, visiting Ghana, Malawi, Kenya and Egypt. She spent much of her time with children in schools, orphanages, and hospitals. She used the trip to tout relief work being carried out by the United States Agency for International Development (/wiki/United_States_Agency_for_International_Development) , which raised questions about her husband's intention to cut its funding. Melania also received criticism for her fashion choices, where a photo opportunity in front of the Great Sphinx of Giza (/wiki/Great_Sphinx_of_Giza) was seen as exploitive and a pith helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet) she wore in Kenya was criticized for its association with colonialism in Africa (/wiki/Colonialism_in_Africa) . To these criticisms, she responded that people should pay more attention to her actions instead of her outfits. [223] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020261–263-224) Perception of the trip grew worse when she responded to criticisms by saying that she was "the most bullied person in the world". [224] (#cite_note-auto1-225) Throughout Melania's tour of Africa, personality conflicts took place between her team and Mira Ricardel (/wiki/Mira_Ricardel) , the Deputy National Security Advisor (/wiki/Deputy_National_Security_Advisor) . [225] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020264–267-226) Ricardel's staffer had been bumped from the first lady's plane on the flight to Africa to make room for a journalist, and Ricardel subsequently became less cooperative with providing logistical information needed for the tour. [226] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019184–185-227) Upon returning, Ricardel gave a thoroughly negative report on Melania's staff, describing them as embarrassing the White House with their partying. [227] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019186-228) Melania twice complained to the president, but no immediate action was taken. [227] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019186-228) So the following month, the Office of the First Lady issued an official statement calling for Ricardel to be removed from her position. Publicly commenting on such a thing was unprecedented for a first lady. [228] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019183–184-229) No one in the administration had been told in advance about the statement, including the president. [227] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019186-228) Ricardel was fired the following day. [229] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019187-230) A dispute over the trip arose between Melania and Ivanka a few months later when the latter made her own trip to the continent. Melania felt that in taking such a similar trip, Ivanka was intruding on the first lady's role. [230] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019170–172-231) Political influence Melania working with children at a 2017 Christmas event; children's welfare was among the most important issues to Melania. Melania was the one person exempt from the criticism and distrust that Donald leveled against those around him in the White House. He held her opinion in high regard, often agreeing with her when she made it known, and he valued her loyalty as she did not seek public attention of her own. [231] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202040–41-232) Melania believed that it was not her duty as first lady to take policy positions in her own right, but simply to advise Donald regarding his. [11] (#cite_note-Ioffe-12) She was the only person among those around him who could critique him directly without repercussion. [232] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20192–3-233) Donald frequently asked for her opinion about issues he was considering or people who he interacted with, calling her over the phone when she was not in the same room. [233] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019213-234) Melania paid close attention to media coverage throughout Donald's presidency, providing her input on what would make good optics and maintain his image. [234] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202041-235) [235] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019154–156-236) She also provided advice on how to pose for pictures and has given him suggestions on how to appear when moving. [236] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020274-237) The nature of their relationship allowed Melania to overlook erratic behavior from Donald, as she had long believed that there was no use in trying to change someone's personality, especially her husband's. [182] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019156-183) Melania had influence over her husband's staff, and Donald sometimes fired individuals on her advice. [188] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202044-189) [237] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20193-238) The welfare of children is a subject of interest for her, and she routinely made visits to children's hospitals throughout her tenure as first lady. [238] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020253-239) According to her biographer Kate Bennett (/w/index.php?title=Kate_Bennett&action=edit&redlink=1) , interacting with children is one of the rare things that causes Melania to shift away from her usual stoic demeanor. [239] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019200–201-240) Her advocacy was a major factor in her husband's decision to ban fruit flavored electronic cigarettes (/wiki/Electronic_cigarettes) . [240] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020254,_269–271-241) About one year into her tenure, Melania hired Reagan Thompson (/w/index.php?title=Reagan_Thompson&action=edit&redlink=1) as a policy advisor, though she had yet to adopt any official initiatives at the time. [241] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019344-242) Family separation policy Trump was openly critical of her husband's "zero tolerance" policy of denying asylum (/wiki/Trump_administration_family_separation_policy) at the Mexico–United States border (/wiki/Mexico%E2%80%93United_States_border) in 2018, where children were being separated from their parents. Her official position was that she hated to see families separated and hoped for successful immigration reform. [242] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020259-243) [243] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019176-244) Out of public view, she made her opposition clear to the president and influenced his decision to end it. [244] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20193,_176-245) Leaked tapes in 2020 featured Melania making statements defending some of the practices, expressing grief about family separation but questioning the validity of asylum claims (/wiki/Asylum_in_the_United_States) and dismissing concerns that children were kept in substandard conditions. [245] (#cite_note-CNNTapes-246) Melania was upset when her stepdaughter Ivanka began receiving the credit for changing the president's mind on the issue. [246] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019178-247) Melania decided to visit the border herself, ignoring her husband's worries about keeping media attention on the border and the Secret Service's need of advance notice to plan her trip. [247] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019178–179-248) She arrived at the border on June 21, where she visited the family separation facilities in Texas and attended a roundtable (/wiki/Roundtable) with doctors, medical staff, social workers, and other experts at Upbring New Hope Children's Shelter. [248] (#cite_note-249) On the way to the border facility, she caused controversy by wearing a jacket that read, "I really don't care, do u?" After much speculation about the jacket's message, including criticism that she may have been expressing indifference toward the families separated at the border, Trump stated that the jacket was aimed at people and media who were criticizing her. [249] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020260–261-250) The jacket dominated media coverage of her visit. [250] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019179-251) Be Best campaign Main article: Be Best (/wiki/Be_Best) Melania Trump celebrating the second anniversary of the Be Best campaign On May 7, 2018, Trump held a press conference in the White House Rose Garden (/wiki/White_House_Rose_Garden) to announce her official public initiative as first lady, the Be Best awareness campaign. The initiative was created to support the welfare of children, advocate against cyberbullying (/wiki/Cyberbullying) , and prevent opioid abuse (/wiki/Opioid_abuse) . [214] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019345-215) [251] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020247-252) The initiative's name drew ridicule in the press for its grammatical structure. [252] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019216-253) Instead of creating new programs like previous first ladies' projects, Be Best promoted existing initiatives and organizations that worked toward the cause. Public awareness of the initiate remained low, and it was often regarded solely as an anti-cyberbullying campaign. [253] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019158-254) The Be Best campaign drew criticism for its perceived hypocrisy, challenging cyberbullying when her husband was well known for attacking people online. [254] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020247–248-255) Even Donald had warned her before the campaign's launch that the contrast may provoke criticism. [253] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019158-254) She acknowledged the discrepancy but insisted that she would continue because she felt it was a good cause. [254] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020247–248-255) This received more attention in 2019 when the president made Twitter posts critical of Greta Thunberg (/wiki/Greta_Thunberg) , a teenage environmental activist diagnosed on the autism spectrum (/wiki/Autism_spectrum) . This came days after Melania had criticized Pamela Karlan (/wiki/Pamela_Karlan) for invoking Barron in a speech against the president. The first lady's office responded that spouses such as her and Donald communicate differently, and said that Barron was not "an activist who travels the globe giving speeches". [255] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020271–272-256) COVID-19 and 2020 presidential campaign Melania with first responders during the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) Trump underwent a major reorganization of her staff in April 2020 in anticipation of her husband's reelection campaign (/wiki/Donald_Trump_2020_presidential_campaign) . She appointed Marcia Lee Kelly (/w/index.php?title=Marcia_Lee_Kelly&action=edit&redlink=1) as her senior advisor and Emma Doyle (/wiki/Emma_Doyle) as her policy advisor. Her chief of staff Lindsay Reynolds was removed, with her responsibilities going to Melania's communications director Stephanie Grisham. [185] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020243-186) Trump became an active campaigner for her husband during the 2020 presidential election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) , which was a strong contrast to her 2016 activity. [256] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020276–277-257) When the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) began, Melania was criticized for promoting a White House renovation project. She took the topic more seriously after the COVID-19 lockdowns (/wiki/COVID-19_lockdowns) began, using her Twitter to encourage social distancing during the pandemic (/wiki/Social_distancing_measures_related_to_the_COVID-19_pandemic) and promote official medical advice. Much of what she posted directly contradicted what her husband posted, as he discouraged many of the recommended practices. [257] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020279–281-258) On October 1, 2020, Melania's former advisor Stephanie Winston Wolkoff released audiotapes that featured Melania making profane statements about her image and role as first lady. In the tapes, she condemned the media for not giving her positive coverage, questioned why people wanted her to speak out against her husband when she supported his policies, and expressed frustration with her responsibility to oversee Christmas decorations in the White House. She also mentioned her "I really don't care, do u" jacket in the tapes, admitting that she wore it to irritate liberals (/wiki/Liberalism_in_the_United_States) . Winston Wolkoff had released the tapes alongside a tell-all (/wiki/Tell-all) book, Melania and Me . [245] (#cite_note-CNNTapes-246) [258] (#cite_note-259) The Justice Department filed a civil suit against Wolkoff in October 2019, alleging breach of a nondisclosure agreement (/wiki/Nondisclosure_agreement) , but it was dropped in February 2021 under the Biden administration. [259] (#cite_note-260) In September 2022, Trump said in an interview with Breitbart News (/wiki/Breitbart_News) that the audiotapes had been strategically edited to make people believe that her duties in the White House had been unimportant to her. [260] (#cite_note-261) Despite Donald Trump's loss of the 2020 election, Melania Trump ended her tenure by endorsing his false statement that he had been the legitimate election winner. [193] (#cite_note-:2-194) [224] (#cite_note-auto1-225) For her final months in the White House, she stopped visiting her office in the East Wing, instead staying in the White House residence dressed in terrycloth (/wiki/Terrycloth) bathrobes. Her focus at this time was on compiling photo albums of the decorations and renovations she had overseen through her tenure. [193] (#cite_note-:2-194) Melania was overseeing photography at the White House when the January 6 United States Capitol attack (/wiki/January_6_United_States_Capitol_attack) took place and gave no comment at the time. She later said that she would have commented if she had been "fully informed of all the details". [165] (#cite_note-:1-166) Her communications director Stephanie Grisham later stated she had sent Melania a text message asking her to make a statement condemning the violence and resigned when that did not happen. [193] (#cite_note-:2-194) On January 18, Melania released a farewell video asking the American people to uphold the principles of her Be Best campaign. [224] (#cite_note-auto1-225) She did not contact incoming first lady Jill Biden (/wiki/Jill_Biden) to make transition arrangements or provide her the traditional tour of the White House. [224] (#cite_note-auto1-225) She did, however, follow the tradition of leaving a letter for the incoming first lady. [193] (#cite_note-:2-194) Subsequent activities After the Trumps left the White House, Melania returned to Mar-a-Lago, where she could live while avoiding public attention. [165] (#cite_note-:1-166) She retained one White House advisor, Marcia Lee Kelly, to help her during the post-presidency. [224] (#cite_note-auto1-225) Melania kept in contact with her successor Jill Biden, and the two have exchanged birthday cards. [193] (#cite_note-:2-194) Since her tenure as first lady ended, Melania has made occasional paid speaking appearances, she has founded a scholarship program for foster children (/wiki/Foster_children) , and she has minted a line of Apollo 11 (/wiki/Apollo_11) -themed non-fungible tokens (/wiki/Non-fungible_tokens) that were not in compliance with NASA (/wiki/NASA) 's image use policy. [165] (#cite_note-:1-166) Melania remained out of public view during her husband's court appearances (/wiki/Indictments_against_Donald_Trump) and his candidacy (/wiki/Donald_Trump_2024_presidential_campaign) in the 2024 presidential election (/wiki/2024_United_States_presidential_election) , limiting her campaign events to two fundraisers for the Log Cabin Republicans (/wiki/Log_Cabin_Republicans) . She became more visible in July 2024 by putting out a statement following the attempted assassination of her husband (/wiki/Attempted_assassination_of_Donald_Trump) and appearing at the 2024 Republican National Convention (/wiki/2024_Republican_National_Convention) , though she declined an invitation to speak at the event, making her the first candidate's spouse not to speak at the convention since Barbara Bush (/wiki/Barbara_Bush) began the tradition. [261] (#cite_note-262) Public image Main article: Public image of Melania Trump (/wiki/Public_image_of_Melania_Trump) A 2017 Women's March (/wiki/2017_Women%27s_March) protestor with a Free Melania sign Trump limits her interactions with the public, creating a public image heavily influenced by speculation. [262] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202026–27-263) She worked to protect her privacy as first lady, [263] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20192-264) and her staff was instructed not to answer any questions about her whereabouts at a given time. [183] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020251-184) With limited information, commentators have portrayed her as being a reluctant companion to her husband or as a woman who has no independence of her own. [264] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202027-265) Several incidents during her husband's presidency led to rumors that she had a secret animosity toward her husband, such as her delay in moving to the White House and allegations that he had committed adultery. [215] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019346-216) [263] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett20192-264) The rumors led to popular use of the hashtag (/wiki/Hashtag) #FreeMelania by those who believed them. [265] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan202021-266) Though she disliked the idea that people saw her as helpless, Melania found the campaign amusing. [266] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020275–276-267) This became less common by 2020 as she took a more active role in the administration. [267] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020281–282-268) She is often seen as cold by the public, though people who interact with her describe her as a warm presence. [1] (#cite_note-CollinsModel-2) [268] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019152-269) As with previous first ladies, Trump's fashion was heavily scrutinized, and particularly expensive pieces were criticized. [191] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019342-192) More than other first ladies, her fashion was scrutinized in the context of her past as a fashion model and her marriage to a billionaire. [269] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019247-270) She did her own clothes shopping, [270] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201937-271) [271] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019227-272) but she was assisted by designer Hervé Pierre (/wiki/Herv%C3%A9_Pierre_(designer)) , [272] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019226–228-273) hair stylist Mordechai Alvow, and make up artist Nicole Byrl. [273] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019243–244-274) When preparing for speeches, she dedicated more attention to her physical appearance than content or delivery, which her staff felt affected her ability to promote her causes. [274] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEJordan2020245–246-275) Despite her experience in fashion, she disliked that it was such a major aspect of news coverage about her as first lady. [275] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019251-276) Since the only previous foreign-born first lady had an American father, Melania has been seen by the American public as the first foreigner first lady. [276] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEVidmar_Horvat2021447–448-277) Having a Slovenian-born woman as the American first lady became a point of national pride in Slovenia, and it gave the nation a sense of recognition on the world stage. [277] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEVidmar_Horvat2021448-278) [278] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPušnikJontes2021464–465-279) Melania Trump's hometown Sevnica has developed a small tourist industry around her, and Melania-themed merchandise was common during her tenure as first lady. These items never used Melania's full name, substituting it with "first lady" or "M", as she is protective of her personality rights (/wiki/Personality_rights) . [279] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett201949–50-280) During the 2016 presidential election, Trump became the only candidate's spouse to have a negative approval rating since polling began in 1988. [280] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEElderFrederickBurrell2018107-281) Her approval rating stood at 36–37% in the months leading up to becoming first lady in January 2017, [281] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019148-282) [154] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019341-155) but it increased to 57% in a CNN poll in April 2018 after she received public sympathy amid allegations that her husband had committed adultery. [241] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTECaroli2019344-242) [282] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019216–217-283) Trump finished her tenure in 2021 as the least popular first lady since polling began with a rating of 42%. [283] (#cite_note-284) Multiple polls during her tenure as first lady showed her as the most popular member of the Trump family. [281] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBennett2019148-282) [284] (#cite_note-:3-285) [285] (#cite_note-286) In December 2020, the Siena College Research Institute (/wiki/Siena_College_Research_Institute) released a study surveying scholars and historians on their assessments of American first ladies. It was the fifth such first ladies study that the Institute had conducted since 1982, and the first in which Trump appeared. Trump was ranked as being the worst of 40 assessed American first ladies, [286] (#cite_note-287) receiving the lowest assessments in all of the metrics that were weighed. [287] (#cite_note-288) Footnotes ^ (#cite_ref-1) Pronounced / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) m ə ˈ l ɑː n i ə / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) mə- LAH -nee-ə ; name prior to her marriage (/wiki/N%C3%A9e) : Melania Knauss ( IPA: [meˈlaːni̯a (/wiki/Help:IPA/Standard_German) ˈknaʊs] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Standard_German) ), a Germanization (/wiki/Orthographic_transcription) of her Slovene birth name Melanija Knavs ( IPA: [mɛˈlaːnija (/wiki/Help:IPA/Slovene) ˈknaːws] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Slovene) ). Notes ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Collins, Lauren (May 9, 2016). "The Model American: Melania Trump is the exception to her husband's nativist politics" (http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/05/09/who-is-melania-trump) . The New Yorker . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181119152650/https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/05/09/who-is-melania-trump) from the original on November 19, 2018 . Retrieved May 3, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "O Melaniji je prvi poročal Dolenjski list" (http://www.dolenjskilist.si/2016/11/10/165255/novice/dolenjska/O_Melaniji_je_prvi_porocal_Dolenjski_list/) [The First to Report about Melania was Dolenjski List]. Dolenjski list [Lower Carniola Newspaper] (in Slovenian). November 10, 2016. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161111154144/http://www.dolenjskilist.si/2016/11/10/165255/novice/dolenjska/O_Melaniji_je_prvi_porocal_Dolenjski_list/) from the original on November 11, 2016 . Retrieved November 11, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201948–49_4-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , pp. 48–49. ^ Jump up to: a b Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 51. ^ Jump up to: a b Caroli 2019 (#CITEREFCaroli2019) , p. 336. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202056_7-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , p. 56. ^ Jump up to: a b Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , p. 50. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Wellington, Elizabeth (May 25, 2017). "Melania Trump only the second Catholic first lady to meet a pope" (http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/elizabeth_wellington/melania-trump-catholic-pope-visit-meaning-20170525.html) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170525162931/http://www.philly.com/philly/columnists/elizabeth_wellington/melania-trump-catholic-pope-visit-meaning-20170525.html) from the original on May 25, 2017 . Retrieved May 25, 2017 . Trump's father was a member of the Communist Party (/wiki/League_of_Communists_of_Slovenia) in Slovenia (/wiki/Socialist_Republic_of_Slovenia) , which meant the family were officially atheists. Donald Trump is Presbyterian; the couple married in an Episcopal church. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Požar, Bojan (February 18, 2016). Melania Trump – The Inside Story: The Potential First Lady . Zalozba Ombo d.o.o. Ljubljana. pp. 111–113. Melanija Knavs was baptized on 14 June 1970 in Raka (the village where her mother came from). The church was called St. Lawrence, and the master of the ceremony was pastor Franc Campa. Her sister Ines had also been baptized there, and there had been a church service following the official civil marriage of her parents in 1967 (Požar, p. 94). This was not what was officially allowed for members of the Communist Party. Still, it was nevertheless quite common to do it secretly. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Alvarez, Inma; Vombergar, Marko (June 5, 2017). "Melania Trump spoke with Slovenian cardinal about her baptism" (https://aleteia.org/2017/06/05/melanie-trump-was-baptized-catholic-confirms-slovenian-cardinal-franc-rode/) . Aleteia. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170605222222/https://aleteia.org/2017/06/05/melanie-trump-was-baptized-catholic-confirms-slovenian-cardinal-franc-rode/) from the original on June 5, 2017 . Retrieved June 14, 2017 . In the interview, the cardinal reports that Melania spoke with him of her baptism in Raka (her mother's hometown), close to Melania's birthplace of Novo Mesto. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l Ioffe, Julia (April 27, 2016). "Melania Trump on Her Rise, Her Family Secrets, and Her True Political Views: "Nobody Will Ever Know" (https://www.gq.com/story/melania-trump-gq-interview) " (https://www.gq.com/story/melania-trump-gq-interview) . GQ . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170906042714/https://www.gq.com/story/melania-trump-gq-interview) from the original on September 6, 2017 . Retrieved April 29, 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b Caroli 2019 (#CITEREFCaroli2019) , p. 337. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Peretz, Evgenia (April 21, 2017). "Inside the Trump Marriage: Melania's Burden" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170718230215/http://www.vanityfair.com/news/2017/04/donald-melania-trump-marriage) . Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.vanityfair.com/news/2017/04/donald-melania-trump-marriage) on July 18, 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202052–53_15-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 52–53. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201952_16-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 52. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202054_17-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , p. 54. ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Melania Trump's Past Took Her From A River Town In Slovenia To Trump Tower" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/melania-trump-history_us_56bdf3b5e4b0c3c55050db11) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160215110114/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/melania-trump-history_us_56bdf3b5e4b0c3c55050db11) February 15, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . HuffPost (/wiki/HuffPost) . February 12, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202055–57_19-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 55–57. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Caroli 2019 (#CITEREFCaroli2019) , p. 338. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201953–54_21-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , pp. 53–54. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201954_22-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 54. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201957_23-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 57. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201954–55_24-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , pp. 54–55. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202057–60_25-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 57–60. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202061–63_26-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 61–63. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202063_27-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , p. 63. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202025–26_28-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 25–26. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202067–69_29-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 67–69. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202072–73_30-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 72–73. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202076–77_31-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 76–77. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202083_32-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , p. 83. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201959_33-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 59. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Caroli 2019 (#CITEREFCaroli2019) , p. 334. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202081–82_35-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 81–82. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBennett201963_36-0) Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 63. ^ Jump up to: a b c Caroli 2019 (#CITEREFCaroli2019) , p. 335. ^ Jump up to: a b Bennett 2019 (#CITEREFBennett2019) , p. 64. ^ Jump up to: a b Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 86–89. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202089–92_40-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 89–92. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202095–96_41-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , pp. 95–96. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEJordan202097_42-0) Jordan 2020 (#CITEREFJordan2020) , p. 97. ^ (#cite_ref-43) Horowitz, Jason (August 31, 2016). "When Donald Met Melanie, Paolo Was There" (https://web.archive.org/web/20171117190228/https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/01/fashion/donald-trump-melania-modeling-agent-paolo-zampolli-daily-mail.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Archived from the original (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/01/fashion/donald-trump-melania-modeling-agent-paolo-zampolli-daily-mail.html) on November 17, 2017 . 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The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210114220446/https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/01/us/politics/melania-trump-tapes.html) from the original on January 14, 2021 . Retrieved October 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-260) "Biden Admin DOJ Drops Lawsuit Against Melania Trump's Ex-Friend Stephanie Winston Wolkoff" (https://lawandcrime.com/lawsuit/doj-drops-lawsuit-against-melania-trumps-former/) . February 9, 2021. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210214235320/https://lawandcrime.com/lawsuit/doj-drops-lawsuit-against-melania-trumps-former/) from the original on February 14, 2021 . Retrieved February 9, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-261) Poonia, Gitanjali (September 21, 2022). "Melania Trump, once critical of White House decorating, now selling Christmas ornaments" (https://www.deseret.com/u-s-world/2022/9/21/23365925/melania-trump-white-house-christmas-ornaments) . Deseret News (/wiki/Deseret_News) . 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"The worst final popularity rating ever for a first lady belongs to Melania Trump" (https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/19/politics/melania-trump-analysis/index.html) . CNN . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210209063319/https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/19/politics/melania-trump-analysis/index.html) from the original on February 9, 2021 . Retrieved January 19, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-:3_285-0) Frankovic, Kathy (March 7, 2019). "Melania remains the most popular Trump; Kushner security clearance seen as problematic" (https://today.yougov.com/topics/politics/articles-reports/2019/03/07/melania-most-popular-trump-jared-kushner-security) . today.yougov.com . YouGov. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210204095909/https://today.yougov.com/topics/politics/articles-reports/2019/03/07/melania-most-popular-trump-jared-kushner-security) from the original on February 4, 2021 . Retrieved January 19, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-286) Easley, Cameron (August 25, 2020). "As Trump family dominates RNC, poll shows they're most popular GOP figures" (https://morningconsult.com/2020/08/24/north-carolina-rnc-trump-biden-polling/) . Morning Consult (/wiki/Morning_Consult) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210111060622/https://morningconsult.com/2020/08/24/north-carolina-rnc-trump-biden-polling/) from the original on January 11, 2021 . Retrieved January 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-287) "Eleanor Roosevelt America's Top First Lady for 6th Consecutive Time Abigail Adams Finishes a Close Second; Michelle Obama Moves to Third First Lady Initiatives – Lady Bird Johnson (Environmental Protection) Did Most to Raise Awareness and Address the Issue; Obama (Childhood Obesity), Betty Ford (Women's Rights), and Barbara Bush (Literacy) Made Major Contributions Jackie Kennedy - 4th but First on Being a White House Steward & Public Image" (https://scri.siena.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/FirstLadies2020Release.pdf) (PDF) . scri.siena.edu . Siena College Research Institute. December 9, 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240308234420/https://scri.siena.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/FirstLadies2020Release.pdf) (PDF) from the original on March 8, 2024 . Retrieved March 6, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-288) "Copy of FirstLadies_Full Rankings_working_dl_2.xls" (https://scri.siena.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/First-Ladies-Full-Rankings-2020.pdf) (PDF) . scri.siena.edu . Siena College Research Institute. December 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240330064515/https://scri.siena.edu/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/First-Ladies-Full-Rankings-2020.pdf) (PDF) from the original on March 30, 2024 . Retrieved March 6, 2024 . References Baker, Peter; Glasser, Susan (2022). The Divider: Trump in the White House, 2017-2021 . Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-385-54654-6 . Bennett, Kate (2019). Free, Melania . Flatiron Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-250-30737-8 . Caroli, Betty Boyd (/wiki/Betty_Boyd_Caroli) (2019). "Chapter 11: The Ever-Changing Role of First Lady". First Ladies: The Ever Changing Role, from Martha Washington to Melania Trump . Oxford University Press. pp. 333–348. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-066913-3 . Elder, Laurel; Frederick, Brian; Burrell, Barbara (/wiki/Barbara_Burrell) (2018). American Presidential Candidate Spouses: The Public's Perspective . Palgrave Macmillan. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-319-73878-9 . Jordan, Mary (/wiki/Mary_Jordan_(journalist)) (2020). The Art of Her Deal: The Untold Story of Melania Trump . Simon and Schuster. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-9821-1340-7 . Pušnik, Maruša; Jontes, Dejan (2021). "Mediji in Spontani Nacionalizem: Primer Melanie Trump" (https://www.fdv.uni-lj.si/docs/default-source/tip/mediji-in-spontani-nacionalizem-primer-melanie-trump.pdf) [Media and Spontaneous Nationalism: The Case of Melania Trump] (PDF) . Teorija in Praksa (/wiki/Teorija_in_Praksa) (in Slovenian). 58 (2): 464–480. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.51936/tip.58.2.464-480 (https://doi.org/10.51936%2Ftip.58.2.464-480) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0040-3598 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0040-3598) . Vidmar Horvat, Ksenija (2021). "Postimperialni Patriarhat In Karnevaleskna Periferija: Melania Trump V Transnacionalni Javnosti" (https://www.fdv.uni-lj.si/docs/default-source/tip/postimperialni-patriarhat-in-karnevaleskna-periferija-melania-trump-v-transnacionalni-javnosti.pdf) [Post-Imperial Patriarchy and the Carnivalesque Periphery: Melania Trump Within a Transnational Public] (PDF) . Teorija in Praksa (/wiki/Teorija_in_Praksa) (in Slovenian). 58 (2): 447–463. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.51936/tip.58.2.447-463 (https://doi.org/10.51936%2Ftip.58.2.447-463) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0040-3598 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0040-3598) . External links Wikimedia Commons has media related to Melania Trump (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Melania_Trump) . Wikiquote has quotations related to Melania Trump (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Special:Search/Melania_Trump) . 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Fashion subculture of goth and cyberpunk Cybergoths A woman dressed in a cyber outfit Cybergoth is a subculture (/wiki/Subculture) that derives from elements of goth (/wiki/Goth_subculture#Fashion) , raver (/wiki/Rave) , rivethead (/wiki/Rivethead) and cyberpunk (/wiki/Cyberpunk) fashion. Opinion differs as to whether cybergoth has the requisite complexity to constitute a subculture (/wiki/Subculture) , with some commentators suggesting that it is no more than a small aesthetic variation on cyberpunk (/wiki/Cyberpunk) or raver (/wiki/Rave) fashion. [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] The term 'Cybergoth' was coined in 1988 by Games Workshop (/wiki/Games_Workshop) , for their roleplaying game Dark Future (/wiki/Dark_Future) , [2] (#cite_note-2) the fashion style did not emerge until the following decade. Valerie Steele (/wiki/Valerie_Steele) quotes Julia Borden, who defines cybergoth as combining elements of industrial aesthetics (/wiki/Rivethead) with a style associated with "Gravers" (Gothic ravers). [3] (#cite_note-steele-3) Gravers hybridized "the British Raver look and the German ClubKid look with a 'freak show' spin." [3] (#cite_note-steele-3) as well as a fusion between German and Austrian styles. [3] (#cite_note-steele-3) Borden indicates that initially the hair extensions and bright fishnets did not mesh well with goth fashion, but that by 2002 "the rave elements of dress were replaced by Industrial-influenced accessories, such as goggles, reflective clothing, and mostly black clothing." [3] (#cite_note-steele-3) Steele summarizes: Today cyber goths tend to wear primarily black clothing with hints of neon colors, as well as clothing made of reflective materials and PVC, and huge platform boots. Their hair extensions or falls often incorporate a bright color and multiple piercings are typical. Goggles are often worn. Some cyber goths also wear gas masks or (in what appears to be a kind of medical fetish) shiny PVC doctors' masks. [3] (#cite_note-steele-3) Nancy Kilpatrick (/wiki/Nancy_Kilpatrick) indicates that David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) 's look in the 1970s is the initial inspiration for the style, and that Fritz Lang (/wiki/Fritz_Lang) 's Metropolis (/wiki/Metropolis_(1927_film)) provided the prototype for cyber aesthetics. [4] (#cite_note-Kilpatrick-US-2004-4) Fashion [ edit ] Cybergoth neon fashion under a nightclub (/wiki/Nightclub) black light (/wiki/Black_light) . Cybergoth fashion (/wiki/Fashion) combines rave (/wiki/Rave) , rivethead (/wiki/Rivethead) , cyberpunk (/wiki/Cyberpunk) and goth (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) fashion, as well as drawing inspiration from other forms of science fiction (/wiki/Science_fiction) . Androgyny (/wiki/Androgyny) is common. [5] (#cite_note-gothbible-5) The style sometimes features one starkly contrasting bright or neon-reactive theme color, such as red, blue, neon green, chrome, or pink, [6] (#cite_note-6) set against a basic, black gothic outfit. Matte or glossy black materials such as rubber and shiny black PVC (/wiki/PVC) can be mixed and matched in an effort to create a more artificial look. The black-and-monochromatic juxtaposition can take a variety of forms, including brightly colored hair and make-up, cybernetic (/wiki/Cybernetic) patterns such as live LED circuit boards (/wiki/Circuit_boards) , body modification (/wiki/Body_modification) , gas masks (/wiki/Gas_masks) and goggles (/wiki/Goggles) (especially aviator-style (/wiki/Aviator) ), typically worn on the forehead or around the neck rather than on the eyes. [4] (#cite_note-Kilpatrick-US-2004-4) The most common use of a theme color is in the hair or eye make-up. Artificial, extended hair or "falls" are sometimes used to create this added effect. Falls can be made of various materials, ranging from yarn to fluorescent tubing to electrical wiring. Popular club gear for cybergoths includes tight black pants, tight black vests or shirts cut from ripped, solid or fishnet fabrics, fluffies (/wiki/Fluffy_(footwear)) , resembling costumes from 19th Century Gothic novels (/wiki/Gothic_fiction) or early black and white horror films (/wiki/Horror_films) from the mid-20th century. [5] (#cite_note-gothbible-5) Companies that specialize in the style include Cyberdog (UK), DANE (UK), Pen & Lolly Clubwear (UK), Lip Service (US), and Diabolik (CA). [4] (#cite_note-Kilpatrick-US-2004-4) Hair [ edit ] Cybergoth style incorporates extravagant hair pieces and styles, including synthetic dreadlocks (/wiki/Synthetic_dreads) (known as cyberlox), hair extensions and so on. These hair pieces can be made of a variety of materials, from real hair to synthetic kanekelon hair, plastic tubing, tubular crin, rubber and foam strips, belts, and are often accented with goggles. Music [ edit ] The musical interests of cybergoth culture encompass many electronic genres and/or electronic fusions such as electro-industrial (/wiki/Electro-industrial) , electronic body music (/wiki/Electronic_body_music) , dark electro (/wiki/Dark_electro) , aggrotech (/wiki/Aggrotech) , futurepop (/wiki/Futurepop) , industrial metal (/wiki/Industrial_metal) and cyber metal (/wiki/Cyber_metal) . Most preferably focus on darker genres of underground (/wiki/Underground_music) electronic music. See also [ edit ] Society portal (/wiki/Portal:Society) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Club Kids (/wiki/Club_Kids) Cyberculture (/wiki/Cyberculture) Cyberpunk (/wiki/Cyberpunk) Cyberdelic (/wiki/Cyberdelic) PVC clothing (/wiki/PVC_clothing) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "John Maloney" (https://www.themonthly.com.au/author/john-maloney) . 22 July 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Andrew Mayer (1988). "What the Hell is Cybergoth? A Look at Cyberpunk's Bastard Children" (http://www.streettech.com/bcp/BCPgraf/Manifestos/cybergoth.htm) . Street Tech . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Valerie Steele, Gothic: Dark Glamour , Yale University Press (/wiki/Yale_University_Press) , 2008, p. 49-50 ^ Jump up to: a b c Nancy Kilpatrick (/wiki/Nancy_Kilpatrick) . The Goth Bible: A Compendium for the Darkly Inclined . New York: St. Martin's Griffin (/wiki/St._Martin%27s_Press) , 2004, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-312-30696-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-312-30696-2) , p. 35-36. ^ Jump up to: a b Kilpatrick, Nancy (/wiki/Nancy_Kilpatrick) (2005). The Goth Bible: A Compendium for the Darkly Inclined . UK: Plexus. p. 55. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85965-365-X . ^ (#cite_ref-6) 2002-09-13 "Dead fashionable" (http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2002/09/13/1031608320631.html) The Age (/wiki/The_Age) . Accessed 6 December 2007 External links [ edit ] Media related to Cybergoth (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Cybergoth) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Electronic music events (/wiki/List_of_electronic_music_festivals) Live electronic music (/wiki/Live_electronic_music) Types of events Circuit party (/wiki/Circuit_party) Acid house party (/wiki/Acid_house_party) Rave (/wiki/Rave) Algorave (/wiki/Algorave) Free party (/wiki/Free_party) Squat party (/wiki/Squat_party) Technoparade (/wiki/Technoparade) Teknival (/wiki/Teknival) Doof (/wiki/Doof) Lists of events List of electronic music festivals (/wiki/List_of_electronic_music_festivals) List of industrial music festivals (/wiki/List_of_industrial_music_festivals) List of electronic dance music festivals (/wiki/List_of_electronic_dance_music_festivals) Culture Deejay (/wiki/Deejay) Sound system (/wiki/Sound_system_(DJ)) Freetekno (/wiki/Freetekno) Club drugs (/wiki/Club_drug) Second Summer of Love (/wiki/Second_Summer_of_Love) Related events Music festival (/wiki/Music_festival) demo party (/wiki/Demo_party) hip hop festival (/wiki/List_of_hip_hop_festivals) reggae festival (/wiki/List_of_reggae_festivals) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐vgnft Cached time: 20240719062422 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.262 seconds Real time usage: 0.350 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1038/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 18445/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2644/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 26271/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.166/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4367006/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 305.293 1 -total 35.18% 107.388 1 Template:Reflist 25.67% 78.370 1 Template:Electronic_music_festival 24.75% 75.573 1 Template:Navbox 24.25% 74.046 2 Template:Cite_web 19.44% 59.356 1 Template:Short_description 11.04% 33.691 2 Template:Pagetype 7.96% 24.302 8 Template:Main_other 6.11% 18.647 1 Template:Portal 4.96% 15.140 1 Template:Commons-inline Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1220735-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719062422 and revision id 1219763436. 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Men's formal knee-length coat This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Frock_coat) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Frock coat" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Frock+coat%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Frock+coat%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Frock+coat%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Frock+coat%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Frock+coat%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Frock+coat%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( September 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Double wedding (/wiki/Double_wedding) with grooms (/wiki/Groom) wearing formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) black double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) frock coats with silk (/wiki/Silk) -faced lapels (/wiki/Lapel) , light grey waistcoats (/wiki/Waistcoat) , cashmere striped formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) , button dress boots (/wiki/Dress_boots) , light gloves (/wiki/Gloves) and Ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) -knotted cravats with cravat pin (/wiki/Cravat_pin) (April 1904). A frock coat is a formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) men's coat (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_era) and Edwardian (/wiki/Edwardian_era) periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back and some features unusual in post-Victorian dress. These include the reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is often cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body and also a high degree of waist suppression around the waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) , where the coat's diameter round the waist is less than round the chest. This is achieved by a high horizontal waist seam with side bodies, which are extra panels of fabric above the waist used to pull in the naturally cylindrical drape. As was usual with all coats in the 19th century, shoulder padding was rare or minimal. In the Age of Revolution (/wiki/Age_of_Revolution) around the end of the 18th century, men abandoned the justaucorps (/wiki/Justaucorps) with tricorne hats (/wiki/Tricorne_hat) for the directoire style (/wiki/Directoire_style) : dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) with breeches (/wiki/Breeches) or increasingly pantaloons (/wiki/Trousers#Europe_before_the_20th_century) , and top hats (/wiki/Top_hat) . However, by the 1820s, the frock coat was introduced along with full-length trousers, perhaps inspired by the then casual country leisure wear frock (/wiki/Frock) . Early frock coats inherited the higher collars and voluminous lapels (/wiki/Lapel) of the dress coat style at the time, and were sometimes offered in different, albeit increasingly dark, colours. Within its first next few years, though, plain black soon became the only established practice, and with a moderate collar. The top hat followed suit. Although black trousers did occur, especially at daytime, the black frock coat was commonly worn with charcoal grey, pin-striped or checked formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) . The single-breasted (/wiki/Single-breasted) frock coat sporting the notched (step) lapel (/wiki/Lapel) was more associated with day-to-day professional informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) . Yet, from the end of the 19th century, with the gradual introduction of the lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) , the frock coat came to embody the most formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) for daytime. Especially so when double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) with peaked lapels, a style sometimes called a Prince Albert after Prince Albert (/wiki/Albert,_Prince_Consort) , consort (/wiki/Prince_consort) to Queen Victoria (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) . The formal frock coat only buttoned down to the waist seam, which was decorated at the back with a pair of buttons. The cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , a coat that is buttoned up to the neck, forming a high, stand-up Roman collar (/wiki/Roman_collar) for clergymen (/wiki/Clergy) , was harmonised to the style of the contemporary frock coat. By the late 19th century, the knee-length dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) , morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) and shorter cut lounge suit were all standardized. While the dress coat and the morning coat are knee-length coats like the frock coat and traditionally share the waist seam of the precursor, they are distinguished by the cutaway of the skirt which gives dress coats and morning coats tails (/wiki/Tailcoat) at the back. From the 1920s, the frock coat was increasingly replaced as day formal wear by the cut-away morning coat. In 1936, it was suspended from the protocol of audiences (/wiki/Audience) at the British royal court (/wiki/British_royal_court) . While effectively relegated to a rarity in formal wear ever since, it does occur in certain formal marriages (/wiki/Marriage) and traditional processions (/wiki/Procession) . Name [ edit ] The name frock coat appeared out from the earlier frock (/wiki/Frock) . Earlier terminology also used redingote (or redingotte, redingot), [1] (#cite_note-1) derived from a French alteration (/wiki/Corruption_(linguistics)) of the English " riding coat (/wiki/Riding_coat) ", an example of reborrowing (/wiki/Reborrowing) . History [ edit ] Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) , the precursor to the frock coat fashionable from the 1660s until the 1790s. Frock coats emerged during the Napoleonic Wars (/wiki/Napoleonic_Wars) , where they were worn by officers in the Austrian and various German armies during campaign. They efficiently kept the wearer warm as well as protecting his uniform. Privates and non-commissioned officers would wear greatcoats (/wiki/Greatcoats) on campaign. The earlier frock [ edit ] Man's wool and silk twill frock coat, France, 1816–1820. Los Angeles County Museum of Art (/wiki/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art) , M.2010.33.7.. However resembling the preceding 18th century frock (/wiki/Frock) . Main article: Frock (/wiki/Frock) During the mid seventeenth century the older doublets (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) , ruffs (/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)) , paned hose (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) and jerkins (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) were replaced by the precursor to the three piece suit (/wiki/Three_piece_suit) comprising waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) , tight breeches (/wiki/Breeches) and a long coat called a justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) , topped by a powdered wig (/wiki/Powdered_wig) and tricorne hat (/wiki/Tricorne_hat) . This coat, popularised by Louis XIII (/wiki/Louis_XIII) of France and Charles II of England (/wiki/Charles_II_of_England) , was knee length and looser fitting than the later frock coat, with turn-back cuffs and two rows of buttons. English and French noblemen often wore expensive brocade (/wiki/Brocade) coats decorated with velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , gold braid (/wiki/Gold_braid) , embroidery and gold buttons to demonstrate their wealth. [2] (#cite_note-2) Before the frock coat existed, there was another garment called the frock (/wiki/Frock) in the 18th century, which was probably unrelated to the frock coat , sharing only a similarity in name. The earlier frock was originally country clothing that increasingly became common around 1730. Formal dress was then so elaborate that it was impractical for everyday wear, so the frock became fashionable as half dress (/wiki/Half_dress) , a less formal alternative. By the 1780s the frock was worn widely as town wear and, towards the end of the 18th century, started to be made with a single-breasted cut away front and tails. It was thus the precursor to the modern dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) worn with white tie (/wiki/White_tie) dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) . These relations can be seen in similar foreign terms. The modern word for a dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) in Italian, French, Romanian and Spanish is frac ; in German and Scandinavian languages Frack ; and Portuguese fraque , used in the late 18th century to describe a garment very similar to the frock, being a single or double-breasted garment with a diagonally cutaway front in the manner of a modern morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) . Even coats with horizontally cut away skirts like a dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) were referred to as a frock in the late eighteenth and very early 19th century, before being renamed to dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) . This suggests that the earlier frock from the 18th century is more the direct ancestor of the modern dress coat, whereas the frock coat in the 19th century, the subject under discussion here, is a different garment altogether with separate military origins in the 19th century. However a remote historical connection to the frock cannot entirely be excluded, as is the case with similar looks variably referred to as redingote (/wiki/Redingote) or riding coat (/wiki/Riding_coat) . Other meanings of the term frock include clerical garb and a type of woman's dress (/wiki/Dress) combining a skirt with a shirt–blouse top. Military uniforms [ edit ] German Landwehr (/wiki/Landwehr) soldier in frock coat, 1815 Crimean War (/wiki/Crimean_War) French Light Infantry (/wiki/Light_Infantry) The first military frock coats were issued late in the Napoleonic Wars (/wiki/Napoleonic_Wars) to French line infantry (/wiki/Line_infantry) and Prussian Landwehr (/wiki/Landwehr) troops. [3] (#cite_note-3) Unwilling to soil the expensive tail coats (/wiki/Tail_coat) on campaign, the French adopted a loose fitting single-breasted coat with contrasting collar and cuffs. The Germans, having been devastated by years of war, were unable to afford elaborate uniforms like the British line infantry and chose a peaked cap (/wiki/Peaked_cap) and double-breasted blue coat, [4] (#cite_note-4) again with contrasting collar and cuffs, as these were cheaper to produce for the large numbers of recruits, smart enough for full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) and more practical for campaigns. By the 1840s, frock coats were regulation for the American, Prussian, Russian [5] (#cite_note-5) and French armies. By 1834 officers of the British Army had adopted a dark blue/black frock coat for ordinary duties, derived from an earlier greatcoat worn during the Napoleonic period. [6] (#cite_note-6) US army (/wiki/US_army) officers were first issued navy blue frocks during the Mexican War (/wiki/Mexican%E2%80%93American_War) , with gold epaulettes (/wiki/Epaulette) and peaked caps (/wiki/Peaked_cap) of the German pattern. Enlisted USMC (/wiki/United_States_Marine_Corps) personnel received a double breasted (/wiki/Double_breasted) version with red piping worn with a leather stock (/wiki/Leather_stock) and shako (/wiki/Shako) to reflect their status as an elite unit. Infantry soldiers continued to be issued the 1833 pattern shell jacket (/wiki/Shell_jacket) until the M1858 uniform (/wiki/M1858_uniform) complete with French style kepi (/wiki/Kepi) entered service shortly before the US Civil War (/wiki/US_Civil_War) . [7] (#cite_note-7) The earlier redingote [ edit ] The men's redingote was an eighteenth-century or early-nineteenth-century long coat or greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) , derived from the country garment (i.e. derived from "riding coat") with a wide, flat collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) called a frock (/wiki/Frock) . In French and several other languages, redingote is the usual term for a fitted frock coat. The form a men's redingote took could be of the tightly fitting frock coat style or the more voluminous, loose "great coat" style, replete with overlapping capes or collars, such as a "garrick" redingote, depending on fashion throughout its popularity. During the 19th century the term redingote also applied to a military riding coat worn mainly by French cavalrymen. This took the form of a greatcoat with long skirts, extending over the sides of the horse being ridden. [8] (#cite_note-8) The origins and rise of the frock coat [ edit ] Prince Albert (/wiki/Albert,_Prince_Consort) wearing a black frock coat with silk-faced lapels and bow tie Heads of government wore frock coats at the formal signing of the Treaty of Versailles (/wiki/Treaty_of_Versailles) in 1919. When the frock coat was first worn, correct daytime full dress was a dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) . The frock coat began as a form of undress, the clothing worn instead of the dress coat in more informal situations. The coat itself was possibly of military origin. Towards the end of the 1820s, it started to be cut with a waist seam to make it more fitted, with an often marked waist suppression and exaggerated flair of the skirt. This hour-glass (/wiki/Hour-glass) figure persisted into the 1840s. As the frock coat became more widely established around the 1850s, it started to become accepted as formal day time full dress, thus relegating the dress coat exclusively to evening full dress, where it remains today as a component of white tie (/wiki/White_tie) . At this period, the frock coat became the most standard form of coat for formal day time dress. Through most of the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) it continued to be worn in similar situations those in which the lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) is worn today such as in weddings, funerals and by professionals. It was the standard business attire of the Victorian era. Prince Albert (/wiki/Albert,_Prince_Consort) , consort to Queen Victoria (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) , is usually credited with popularising the frock coat and even gave a synonym for its double-breasted version, a "Prince Albert". During the Victorian era, the frock coat rapidly became worn universally in Britain, Europe and America as standard formal business dress or for formal daytime events. It was considered the most correct form of morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) for the time. Notably, however, this time was before contemporary established dress code terminology and so definitions of formal attire (/wiki/Formal_attire) , as well as morning and evening attire, were not altogether according to later standards. The decline of the frock coat [ edit ] Around the 1880s and increasingly through into the Edwardian era (/wiki/Edwardian_era) , an adaptation of the riding coat (/wiki/Riding_coat) called a Newmarket coat, that rapidly and ever since became known as a morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) , began to supplant the frock coat as daytime full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) . Once considered a casual equestrian sports coat, the morning coat slowly started to become both acceptable and increasingly popular, as a standard day-time town full dress alternative to the frock coat, a position which the morning coat enjoys to this day. The morning coat was particularly popular amongst fashionable younger men and the frock coat increasingly came to be worn mostly by older conservative gentlemen. The morning coat gradually relegated the frock coat only to more formal situations, to the point that the frock coat eventually came to be worn only as court (/wiki/Court_dress) and diplomatic dress (/wiki/Diplomatic_dress) . The lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) was once only worn as smart leisure wear in the country or at the seaside but in the middle of the 19th century started to rise rapidly in popularity. It took on the role of a more casual (/wiki/Casual_attire) alternative to the morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) for town wear, moving the latter up in the scale of formality. The more the morning coat became fashionable as correct daytime full dress, the more the lounge suit became acceptable as an informal alternative. Finally the frock coat became relegated to the status of ultra-formal day wear, worn only by older men. At the most formal events during the signing of the Treaty of Versailles (/wiki/Treaty_of_Versailles) in 1919, heads of government wore the frock coat but at more informal meetings they wore morning coats or even a lounge suit. In 1926, George V (/wiki/George_V_of_the_United_Kingdom) hastened the demise of the frock coat when he shocked the public by appearing at the opening of the Chelsea Flower Show wearing a morning coat. The frock coat barely survived the 1930s only as an ultra-formal form of court dress, until being finally officially abolished in 1936 as official court dress by Edward VIII (who later abdicated to become the Duke of Windsor (/wiki/Duke_of_Windsor) ). It was replaced by the morning coat, thus consigning the frock coat protocol-wise to the status of historic dress at the British royal court (/wiki/British_royal_court) . Since that time it has been worn sparingly, albeit arguably not altogether vanished (see section on contemporary use further below). Composition [ edit ] Formal wear [ edit ] Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Frock coats worn with waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) and formal striped trousers (/wiki/Spongebag_trousers) are still very occasionally worn as daytime formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) , especially to weddings (/wiki/Wedding) , as an alternative to morning coats (/wiki/Morning_coats) , in order to give the wedding attire a Victorian flavour. They are today usually only worn by the wedding party, where elements of historical costume are more acceptable and even this practice is unusual, as its role as a formal ceremonial coat in daytime formal wear has been long supplanted in modern dress code by the morning coat. Like morning coats, frock coats are only worn for daytime formal events before 5pm. and no later than until around 7pm. Prior to the establishment of morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) around the turn of the century in 1900, the expression "morning dress" tended to refer to frock coat, while gradually extending to mean both the frock coat and morning dress in the contemporary sense. [9] (#cite_note-9) The morning dress for gentlemen is a black frock coat or a black cut-away, white or black vest, according to the season, gray or colored pants, plaid or stripes according to the fashion, a high silk stove pipe hat and a black scarf or necktie. A black frock coat with black pants is not considered a good combination.. The morning dress is suitable for garden parties, Sundays, social teas, informal calls, morning calls and receptions. — Our Deportment (1879) At afternoon funerals, wear a frock coat and top hat. Should the funeral be your own, the hat may be dispensed with. — The Cynic's Rules of Conduct (1905) Cloth [ edit ] Navy blue frock coat Standard fibres used for the frock coat included wool (/wiki/Wool) and vicuña (/wiki/Vicu%C3%B1a) . The most common weaves were known as broadcloth (/wiki/Broadcloth) and duffel (/wiki/Duffel) , both so called "heavy wools" manufactured along a process originating from Flanders (/wiki/Flanders) in the 11th century (Flemish cloth). The standard colour of a civilian frock coat was solid black but later, in the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) , charcoal grey became an acceptable but less common alternative and Midnight Blue was an even rarer alternative colour. For business and festive occasions the revers (/wiki/Revers) was lined with black silk facings (either satin (/wiki/Satin) or grosgrain (/wiki/Grosgrain) ). For funerals black frock coats without self-faced revers were worn with a matching black waistcoat. In military uniforms a wider variety of colours was and is common, prompting such colour names as " navy blue (/wiki/Navy_blue) " and " cadet grey (/wiki/Cadet_grey) ". On more formal outings the coat was worn with a pair of cashmere striped morning trousers ( cashmere stripes refers to the muted design in black, silver and charcoal grey, not the fibres of the cloth). However, trousers of muted checks were also worn in slightly more informal situations. In keeping with the rules set for morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) , trousers matching the coat were considered a somewhat less formal alternative. A matching black waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) was worn for more formal business or more solemn ceremonies. During the earlier Victorian period, colourful fancy waistcoats of silk were noted as being worn by gentlemen such as Charles Dickens (/wiki/Charles_Dickens) . In summer a white or buff coloured linen waistcoat could be worn. For festive occasions a lighter coloured waistcoat such as light grey was permissible. Cut [ edit ] The length of the skirt of the frock coat varied during the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) and Edwardian era (/wiki/Edwardian_era) according to fashion. The most conservative length became established as being to the knees but fashion conscious men would follow the latest trends to wear them either longer or shorter. Similarly, the height of the waist – the point of maximal waist suppression – changed according to fashion. During its heyday, the frock coat was cut following the 19th century ideal of flattering the natural elegance of the naked figure, based on the ideals of Neoclassicism (/wiki/Neoclassicism) that admired the depiction of the idealised nude in Classical Greco-Roman sculpture. The elegance of the form of the frock coat derived from its hourglass (/wiki/Hourglass) shape with a closely cut waist which at times around the 1830s-40's was reinforced further with padding to round out the chest. A cut with an ideal hourglass silhouette was achievable because coats during this era were all made bespoke (/wiki/Bespoke) , individually cut to the exact measurements of the customer. The 19th century aesthetics of tailoring contrasted markedly to the modern style of cutting suits which involves a greater degree of drape (fullness), as established by the great early 20th century Savile Row (/wiki/Savile_Row) tailor Frederick Scholte (/wiki/Frederick_Scholte) . Caution needs to be exercised by modern tailors trained to create the drape cut style of modern lounge suits (/wiki/Lounge_suit) to minimise drape – particularly around the waist – when cutting a historically accurate frock coat. Sometimes, modern lounge suit coats with an unusually long skirt are referred to by ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) makers as a 'frock coat' but these lack the waist seam, resulting in the fuller drape more typical of a modern overcoat (/wiki/Overcoat) or a lounge suit jacket. The silhouette of the historically accurate frock coat has the waist seam precisely tailored to permit the classical and elongating hourglass figure with the strong waist suppression. Details [ edit ] Oscar Wilde (/wiki/Oscar_Wilde) (1854–1900) wearing a frock coat with a chest pocket sporting a pocket square (/wiki/Pocket_square) and a pinned cravat in a Ruche knot. Frock coats with any external pockets at all are a rarity. Dandies of 1831, one wearing a Polish frock with hood and Brandenbourg fastenings, design elements later used for the Royal Navy Duffel coat (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Another characteristic of frock coats was their lack of any outer pockets. Only late in the Victorian and Edwardian era (/wiki/Edwardian_era) were they ever made with a chest pocket to sport a pocket square (/wiki/Pocket_square) , a feature more typical of the modern lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) . Oscar Wilde (/wiki/Oscar_Wilde) , a famous dandy (/wiki/Dandy) of his time, was often seen in portraits wearing just such a model but this was rather rare on frock coats; while in keeping with the flamboyant nature of Wilde's dress, it was frowned upon by traditionalists. Side pockets were always absent from frock coats but pockets were provided on the inside of the chest or inside the top part of the tail. The buttons on a frock coat were always covered in cloth, often to match the silk on the revers, showing in the triangle of lining wrapped over the inside of the lapels. Another common feature was the use of fancy buttons with a snow-flake or check pattern (/wiki/Check_pattern) woven over it. Through most of the Victorian era until towards the end, the lapels were cut separately and sewn on later, apparently because it made the lapel roll more elegantly from bottom up. The lapel revers from the inside of the coat wrapped over to the front, creating a small triangle of silk, while the outer half was cut from two strips of the body fabric. This was a feature of double-breasted frock coats used on all such coats but morning and dress coats, which had previously followed this practice, began to be made with attached lapels (wholecut) around the end of the Edwardian era. Through the Victorian era, a row of decorative button holes was created down the lapel edge but by Edwardian period these were reduced down to just the one lapel boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) button hole. Turn back cuffs on the sleeves, similar to the turn ups (cuffs in American English) on modern trouser hems, were standard, with two buttons on the cuff. Another rare feature was the use of decorative braiding around the sleeve cuffs and lapel edges. Accessories [ edit ] The Duke of Connaught (/wiki/Prince_Arthur,_Duke_of_Connaught) in a braided frock coat suit with silk top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) , stand-up collar, cravat (/wiki/Cravat_(early)) , buttonhole, striped shirt, gloves, button boots (/wiki/Button_boots) , cane (/wiki/Walking_stick) and racing glasses, in a cartoon in Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(UK_magazine)) from 1876. Proper accessories to wear with the frock coat included a non-collapsible top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) and a boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) in the lapel. A Homburg (/wiki/Homburg_(hat)) hat was considered too informal to wear with proper formal morning dress. During the Victorian and Edwardian era, button boots (/wiki/Dress_boot) with a single row of punching across the cap toe were worn along with a cane (/wiki/Walking_stick) . On cold days, it was common to wear a frock overcoat (/wiki/Overfrock) , a type of overcoat (/wiki/Overcoat) cut exactly the same as the frock coat, with the waist seam construction only a little longer and fuller to permit it to be worn over the top of the frock coat. Patent leather dress boots (/wiki/Dress_boot) were worn up until the Edwardian era with morning dress. The practice of wearing patent leather shoes is today reserved strictly for evening formalwear (/wiki/Formalwear) . Trousers are uncuffed and worn with braces to avoid the top of the trousers from showing underneath the waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) . Only white shirts were worn with frock coats. The shirt was worn with a standing detachable collar (/wiki/Detachable_collar) with either wingtips or "imperial" style (plain standing). The most standard neckwear was a formal cravat (/wiki/Cravat_(early)) . The cravat was tied in the Ascot knot characterised by way the ends cross over in front or alternatively in a Ruche knot, tied like a four-in-hand (/wiki/Four-in-hand) knot of a modern necktie (/wiki/Necktie) . A decorative cravat pin (/wiki/Cravat_pin) often adorned with a precious stone or pearl was used to keep the cravat tidy. The cravat was usual with a frock coat when worn in more formal occasions through the Victorian and Edwardian eras, although the long necktie came to be worn increasingly after the turn of the century in the same manner as it is today with morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) . The practice of wearing bow ties (/wiki/Bow_tie) as an acceptable alternative with formalwear fell away after the late Victorian to early Edwardian era (/wiki/Edwardian_era) and became relegated to eveningwear, as remains the case in the 21st century. As with a formal shirt for white tie, cuffs (/wiki/Cuff) were single (rather than double) cuffed and made to close with cufflinks (/wiki/Cufflinks) . The waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) was usually double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) with peaked lapels (/wiki/Lapel) . Formal gloves in light grey suede (/wiki/Suede) , chamois (/wiki/Chamois) or kid leather (/wiki/Kidskin) were also required. Informal frock coat suits [ edit ] An informal checked frock coat suit with odd waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) . The foreparts are connected by a chain link. The solid black garment described above was widely used but before the lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) became popular, there was a need for a more informal garment for smart casual wear. A version of the frock coat was used here too, with matching trousers and a more informal cloth, featuring stripes or the check shown in the plate opposite. The waistcoat, instead of being black as usual in the formal version, was matching or odd. Until the modern cut away morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) was worn, the single breasted frock coat was called a morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) and was used in such a less formal context and double breasted coats made this way would often not fasten, being held loosely together in much the same way the modern morning coat is, with a single link. [10] (#cite_note-Croonborg1907p3-10) The accessories for the two styles depended on the intended use of the coat: for more formal settings, the outfit might still have striped trousers and demand a top hat and white gloves; for business, by the turn of the century, the morning coat was used (again, this referred to a single breasted frock coat then, not the modern morning coat). This last was accompanied by a business collar (such as winged collar, not a standing Imperial collar); a four in hand tie (as opposed to the formal cravat and puff) and a soft Derby (/wiki/Derby_(hat)) or Homburg (/wiki/Homburg_(hat)) . [10] (#cite_note-Croonborg1907p3-10) Modern use [ edit ] Frock coats at the Blutritt (/wiki/Blutritt) in Weingarten (/wiki/Weingarten_(Baden)) , Upper Swabia (/wiki/Swabia) , 2011. An annual Catholic (/wiki/Catholic) equestrian procession (/wiki/Procession) in honour of a relic (/wiki/Relic) containing the blood of Jesus Christ (/wiki/Blood_of_Jesus_Christ) . General [ edit ] Although ceasing to be required by protocol as formal attire at the British royal court (/wiki/British_royal_court) in 1936, at the order of the short-reigning King Edward VIII (/wiki/Edward_VIII) , the frock coat has not altogether vanished as modern civilian formal wear. The state funeral (/wiki/Death_and_state_funeral_of_Winston_Churchill) of Winston Churchill (/wiki/Winston_Churchill) in 1965 included wearers of frock coats. [11] (#cite_note-11) Savile Row (/wiki/Savile_Row) tailor (/wiki/Tailor) and reinnovator Tommy Nutter (/wiki/Tommy_Nutter) (1943– 1992) was a frequent wearer. Frock coats, albeit often in other colours than black, survive until this day in the livery (/wiki/Livery) of hotel staff (/wiki/Doorman_(profession)) . King Tupou VI (/wiki/Tupou_VI) of Tonga (/wiki/Tonga) (born 1959) is a frequent wearer of frock coats. Examples of frock coats in fashion in the 21st century include Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) in 2012, [12] (#cite_note-12) Prada (/wiki/Prada) 's autumn edition in 2012, and Paul Smith (/wiki/Paul_Smith_(fashion_designer)) in 2018. [13] (#cite_note-13) Frock coats still appear in certain traditional Catholic processions (/wiki/Procession) , such as the Blutritt (/wiki/Blutritt) in Germany (/wiki/Germany) . Some wedding grooms (/wiki/Groom) apply more or less creative civil or military variants of frock coats. In the civilian wear cases it is sometimes accompanied by the same creativity in terms of ascot ties (/wiki/Ascot_tie) . As a prominent example, when Prince Harry (/wiki/Prince_Harry) married Meghan Markle (/wiki/Meghan_Markle) in 2018, he and his brother and best man Prince William (/wiki/Prince_William) opted for military full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) variants of frock coats. Military uniforms [ edit ] A British Army (/wiki/British_Army) general wearing a frock coat in 2012. The cut of a frock coat with a waist seam flatters a man's figure, as opposed to a sack coat (/wiki/Suit_(clothes)) , and such frock coats remained part of some 21st-century military uniforms (/wiki/Military_uniform) . They can either be single-breasted (/wiki/Single-breasted) , as in some army uniforms, or double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) as in both army and navy uniforms. An example of the latter is seen in the modern gala dress of officers in the Spanish Navy. [14] (#cite_note-14) The British Army (/wiki/British_Army) currently retains the frock coat for ceremonial wear (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_British_Army#Frock_coats) by senior officers of Lieutenant-General (/wiki/Lieutenant-general_(United_Kingdom)) rank and above, by officers of the Household Division (/wiki/Household_Division) , by some bandmasters and by holders of certain Royal appointments. [15] (#cite_note-15) The 19th century Polish (/wiki/Poland) frock coat with hood and toggle-and-tow fastenings stood model for the overcoat used by the Royal Navy and British Army from 1890 on, known as Duffel coat (/wiki/Duffel_coat) or Monty coat. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) Orthodox Jewish wear [ edit ] In the Lithuanian (/wiki/Litvish) yeshiva (/wiki/Yeshiva) world, many prominent figures wear a black frock coat also known as a kapotteh (/wiki/Kapotteh) (accompanied by either a Homburg (/wiki/Homburg_(hat)) or fedora hat (/wiki/Fedora_hat) ) as formal wear. In recent years many Sefardi (/wiki/Sefardi) rabbis also wear a similar frock coat. The frock coat amongst non-Hassidic Jews is usually reserved for a rosh yeshiva (/wiki/Rosh_yeshiva) , (maybe also the mashgiach (/wiki/Mashgiach_ruchani) and other senior rabbis of the yeshiva) and other rabbis such as important communal rabbis and some chief rabbis. Most married male Lubavitcher (/wiki/Lubavitch) Hasidim also don frock coats on Shabbat (/wiki/Shabbat) . All Hasidim also wear a gartel (/wiki/Gartel) (belt) over their outer coats during prayer services. Most Hasidim (/wiki/Hasidic_Judaism) wear long coats called rekelekh (/wiki/Rekel) during the week, which are often mistaken for frock coats but are really very long suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) jackets. On Shabbat, Hasidim wear bekishes (/wiki/Bekishe) , which are usually silk or polyester as opposed to the woollen frock coat. The bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) and the rekel (/wiki/Rekel) both lack the waist seam construction of the frock coat. Additionally, bekishes can be distinguished from frock coats by the additional two buttons on front and a lack of a slit in the back. Part of the slit hem in the back of the frock coat is rounded so as to not require tzitzit (/wiki/Tzitzit) . The buttons are usually made to go right over left on most Jewish frock coats, particularly those worn by Hasidic Jews. In Yiddish, a frock coat is known as a frak , a sirtuk or a kapotteh . Teddy Boys [ edit ] The Teddy Boys (/wiki/Teddy_Boy) , a 1950s UK youth movement, named for their use of Edwardian-inspired clothing, briefly revived the frock coat, which they often referred to as a "drape". Gallery [ edit ] Men's redingote (1813) Man's redingote (left) (1831) Redingote croisée or double-breasted frock coat (1837) Andrew Curtin (ca 1860) Caspar Frederik Wegener (/w/index.php?title=Caspar_Frederik_Wegener&action=edit&redlink=1) (1863) The "Terrible Twins" David Lloyd George (/wiki/David_Lloyd_George) and Winston Churchill (/wiki/Winston_Churchill) (1907) during the peak of their "radical phase" as social reformers Georges Clemenceau (/wiki/Georges_Clemenceau) (1917) Crown Prince Hirohito (/wiki/Hirohito) in Oxford (/wiki/Oxford) (1921) Uniform of Major General Onodera Makoto (c. 1930–1939) Popular culture [ edit ] Doctor Who (/wiki/Doctor_Who) features frock coats worn by the Doctor (/wiki/The_Doctor_(Doctor_Who)) during the second (/wiki/Second_Doctor) , fourth (/wiki/Fourth_Doctor) , fifth (/wiki/Fifth_Doctor) , sixth (/wiki/Sixth_Doctor) , eighth (/wiki/Eighth_Doctor) , eleventh (/wiki/Eleventh_Doctor) , and twelfth (/wiki/Twelfth_Doctor) incarnations. It also features black frock coats worn by some incarnations of the Master (/wiki/The_Master_(Doctor_Who)) , usually with a Nehru collar (/wiki/Nehru_collar) . See also [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Frock coats (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Frock_coats) . Look up frock coat (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/frock_coat) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Look up redingote (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/redingote) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) 1820s in fashion (/wiki/1820s_in_fashion) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Over-frock coat (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Dress coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Oxford English Dictionary , Third Edition, September 2009 ^ (#cite_ref-2) Condra, Jillian: The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Throughout World History: 1501–1800, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2008, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-33662-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-313-33662-1) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Michael V. Leggiere (2002). Napoleon and Berlin: The Franco-Prussian War in North Germany, 1813. University of Oklahoma Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8061-3399-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8061-3399-6) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Napoleonic Association Prussian Landwehr (http://www.napoleonicassociation.org/historical-reenactment/british/Silesian_Landwehr.htm) ^ (#cite_ref-5) Image of Russian troops in the Crimea (http://britishbattles.homestead.com/files/russia/krim/TRANS_russian_troops_in_the_Crimea_winter_and_summer_uniforms.gif) ^ (#cite_ref-6) Major R. M.Barnes, page 247 and plate 23 "A History of the Regiments & Uniforms of the British Army", First Sphere Bools edition 1972 ^ (#cite_ref-7) Howard Lanham - Generalizations regarding the US Army uniforms (http://howardlanham.tripod.com/general.html) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Carman, W.Y. A Dictionary of Military Uniform . p. 109. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-684-15130-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "The Frock Suit | Mass Historia" (http://walternelson.com/dr/frock-suits) . ^ Jump up to: a b Croonborg (1907). p.30 ^ (#cite_ref-11) Archived at Ghostarchive (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211205/hQldUeevrQQ) and the Wayback Machine (https://web.archive.org/web/20180421065437/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQldUeevrQQ) : "THE STATE FUNERAL OF SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL (NEWS IN COLOUR) - COLOUR IS VERY GOOD" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQldUeevrQQ) . YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "McQueen's frock coats and frayed lapels turn heads at London Collections: Men" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2013/jun/18/mcqueen-frock-coats-london-collections-men) . TheGuardian.com (/wiki/TheGuardian.com) . 18 June 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Paul Smith Fall 2018 Menswear Collection" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/paul-smith) . 21 January 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Jose M. Bueno, plate 38772, "Uniformes de La Infanteria de Marina", Editions Barreira ^ (#cite_ref-15) Tanner, James (2000), The British Army since 2000 , Osprey Publishing, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-78200-593-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-78200-593-3) (p. 55) ^ (#cite_ref-16) "The History of the Duffel Coat" (https://www.heddels.com/2019/01/history-duffle-coat/) . 10 January 2019 . Retrieved 10 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Duffel Coat History" (https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/duffle-coat-guide-history-details/) . 13 November 2017 . Retrieved 12 September 2022 . Bibliography [ edit ] Antongiavanni, Nicholas: The Suit , HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-06-089186-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-06-089186-6) Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: clothing and society 1500-1914 , Abrams, New York, 1996. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8109-6317-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8109-6317-5) Baumgarten, Linda: What Clothes Reveal: the language of clothing in colonial and federal America , Yale University Press, New haven, 2002. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-300-09580-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-300-09580-5) Black, J. Anderson & Garland, Madge: A History of Fashion , Morrow, New York, 1975. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-688-02893-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-688-02893-4) Byrd, Penelope: The Male Image: men's fashion in England 1300-1970 . B. T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1979. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7134-0860-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7134-0860-X) Croonborg, Frederick: The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring . Croonborg Sartorial Co., New York and Chicago, 1907 Cunnington, C. Willett (/wiki/C._Willett_Cunnington) & Cunnington, Phillis (/wiki/Phillis_Cunnington) : Handbook of English Costume , 3rd ed. Plays Inc. Boston, 1970. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8238-0080-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8238-0080-6) de Marly, Diana: Working Dress: a history of occupational clothing , Batsford, London (UK), 1986; Holmes & Meier (US), 1987. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8419-1111-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8419-1111-8) Devere, Louis: The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System. London, 1866 revised and edited by R. L. Shep (/wiki/R._L._Shep) . R. L. Shep, Mendocino, California, 1986. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914046-03-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-914046-03-9) Doyle, Robert: The Art of the Tailor . Sartorial Press Publications, Stratford, Ontario, 2005. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9683039-2-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9683039-2-7) Druessedow, Jean L. (editor): Men's Fashion Illustration from the Turn of the Century Reprint. Originally published: New York: Jno J. Mitchell Co. 1910. Dover Publications, 1990 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-26353-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-486-26353-3) Ettinger, Roseann: Men's Clothes and Fabrics . Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 1998. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7643-0616-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7643-0616-2) Laver, James: Costume and Fashion: a concise history , Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 1969. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-500-20266-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-500-20266-4) Minister, Edward: The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting (1853) - Second Edition Vol 1 and 2 . Edited by R. L. Shep (/wiki/R._L._Shep) . R. L. Shep, Mendocino, California, 1993. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914046-17-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-914046-17-9) Peacock, John: Men's Fashion: the complete sourcebook , Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 1996. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-500-01725-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-500-01725-5) Salisbury, W. S.: Salisbury's System of Actual Measurement and Drafting for all Styles of Coats upon Geometric Principles . New York 1866. Reprinted in Civil War Gentlemen: 1860 Apparel Arts and Uniforms by R. L. Shep (/wiki/R._L._Shep) , Mendocino, California, 1994. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914046-22-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-914046-22-5) Tozer, Jane & Levitt, Sarah, Fabric of Society: a century of people and their clothes, 1770-1870 , Laura Ashley Press, Carno, Powys, 1983 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9508913-0-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9508913-0-4) Unknown author: The Standard Work on Cutting Men's Garments . 4th ed. Originally pub. 1886 by Jno J Mitchell, New York. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-916896-33-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-916896-33-1) Vincent, W. D. F.: The Cutter's Practical Guide. Vol II "All kinds of body coats" . The John Williamson Company, London, c. 1893. Waugh, Norah: The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 , Routledge, London, 1964. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-87830-025-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-87830-025-2) v t e Historical clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings Body-length (/wiki/Suit) Abolla (/wiki/Abolla) Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)) Court dress (Empire of Japan) (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_Empire_of_Japan) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Frock coat Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) Paenula (/wiki/Paenula) Peplos (/wiki/Peplos) Stola (/wiki/Stola) Toga (/wiki/Toga) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Peascod belly (/wiki/Peascod_belly) Poet shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Culottes (/wiki/Culottes) Harem (/wiki/Harem_pants) Knickerbockers (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Saragüells (/w/index.php?title=Sarag%C3%BCells&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ca (https://ca.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarag%C3%BCells) ] Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) Hobble (/wiki/Hobble_skirt) Poodle (/wiki/Poodle_skirt) Safeguard (/wiki/Safeguard_(costume)) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) Bliaut (/wiki/Bliaut) Close-bodied gown (/wiki/Close-bodied_gown) Debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Gown (/wiki/Gown) Kirtle (/wiki/Kirtle) Mantua (/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)) Polonaise (/wiki/Polonaise_(clothing)) Robe de cour (/wiki/Robe_de_cour) Sack-back gown (/wiki/Sack-back_gown) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_dress) Tea gown (/wiki/Tea_gown) Zaju chuishao fu (/wiki/Zaju_chuishao_fu) Outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) Car coat (/wiki/Car_coat) Caraco (/wiki/Caraco) Cardinal cloak (/wiki/Cardinal_cloak) Chamail (/wiki/Chamail_(clothing)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) Kinsale cloak (/wiki/Kinsale_cloak) Dolman (/wiki/Dolman) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Exomis (/wiki/Exomis) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Houppelande (/wiki/Houppelande) Inverness cape (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin) Kandys (/wiki/Kandys) Mackinaw jacket (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Nadiri (/wiki/Nadiri) Norfolk jacket (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) Overfrock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Pañuelo (/wiki/Pa%C3%B1uelo) Palla (/wiki/Palla_(garment)) Pallium (/wiki/Pallium_(Roman_cloak)) Pelisse (/wiki/Pelisse) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Galway shawl (/wiki/Galway_shawl) Kullu (/wiki/Kullu_shawl) Smock-frock (/wiki/Smock-frock) Spencer (/wiki/Spencer_(clothing)) Surcoat (/wiki/Surcoat) Surtout (/wiki/Surtout) Ulster coat (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Visite 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American manufacturer of shoes This article is about the apparel company. For the road vehicle, see Van (/wiki/Van) . For other uses, see Vans (disambiguation) (/wiki/Vans_(disambiguation)) . Vans Vans store in Midtown Manhattan (/wiki/Midtown_Manhattan) Formerly The Van Doren Rubber Company Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion#Fashion_industry) Founded March 16, 1966 ; 58 years ago ( 1966-03-16 ) in Anaheim, California (/wiki/Anaheim,_California) Founders Paul Van Doren James Van Doren Gordon Lee [1] (#cite_note-1) Headquarters Costa Mesa, California (/wiki/Costa_Mesa,_California) , U.S. Area served Worldwide Products Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) clothing (/wiki/Clothing) accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessories) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) VF Outdoor (/wiki/VF_Corporation) Website vans.com (https://www.vans.com/) Footnotes / references [2] (#cite_note-2) Vans (originally called the Van Doren Rubber Company ) is an American apparel, accessories, and skateboarding shoes (/wiki/Skate_shoe) brand, established in Anaheim, California (/wiki/Anaheim,_California) , and owned by VF Corporation (/wiki/VF_Corporation) . The company also sponsors surf (/wiki/Surfing) , snowboarding (/wiki/Snowboarding) , BMX (/wiki/BMX) , and motocross (/wiki/Motocross) teams. [3] (#cite_note-3) From 1996 to 2019, the brand was the primary sponsor of the annual Warped Tour (/wiki/Warped_Tour) music festival. History [ edit ] Vans store at the King of Prussia (/wiki/King_of_Prussia_(mall)) mall in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania (/wiki/King_of_Prussia,_Pennsylvania) Paul Van Doren (/wiki/Paul_Van_Doren) , his brother James, and Gordon C. Lee opened the first Vans store as "The Van Doren Rubber Company" on March 16, 1966, at 704 East Broadway in Anaheim, California. [4] (#cite_note-4) The business manufactured shoes and sold them directly to the public. Upon opening, twelve customers purchased Vans deck shoes (now called "Authentic"), similar to those manufactured by Keds (/wiki/Keds) but with a thicker sole. The store had display models of three styles of shoes, priced between US$2.49 and US$4.99, but did not have any inventory ready to sell and Paul Van Doren did not have change to give customers; customers took their shoes home and came back the next day to pay. [5] (#cite_note-Fund-5) The original Vans skateboard logo was designed in Costa Mesa, California (/wiki/Costa_Mesa,_California) , in the 1970s by Mark Van Doren, son of then-President and co-owner James Van Doren, at age 13; Mark's design was a stencil, allowing the logo to be spray-painted onto his skateboards. The design was incorporated into the heel tab on Style 95, an early Vans skateboard shoe. Mark's interest in skateboarding is what led Vans to manufacture skateboarding shoes. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) In 1976, Vans began using its "Off The Wall" motto, a slang phrase used by skateboarders while doing tricks in empty pools. Around this time, Vans released its Vans Side-stripe and Vans #36, also known as the "Old Skool" design. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) In 1984, facing heavy competition and a market flooded with Vans counterfeits, Vans lowered its prices and eventually filed for bankruptcy protection. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) In 1988, Van Doren and Lee sold the company to banking firm McCown De Leeuw & Co. for US$74.4 million. In 1989, many Vans counterfeiters were apprehended by the U.S. and Mexican governments and ordered to cease production. [5] (#cite_note-Fund-5) By 1991, the company's shoes were highly desired due to high demand and low supply. The company expanded internationally; released new models, including snowboard shoes; and was renamed Vans, Inc. to reflect its customers calling the shoes "Vans" for short. The same year, Vans went public at US$14 per share on NASDAQ (/wiki/Nasdaq) . [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) In 2004, Vans merged with North Carolina-based VF Corporation (/wiki/VF_Corporation) . [8] (#cite_note-8) In 2016, in celebration of its 50th anniversary, Vans released a new logo and launched a campaign to target a wider audience. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) In 2022, Vans launched the new VR3 product line where 30% of the product is renewable, recycled or regenerative. VF Corporation will expand the VR3 product collection to more footwear and apparel categories. [9] (#cite_note-9) Event sponsorship [ edit ] Since 1999, Vans has sponsored and supported Warped Tour (/wiki/Warped_tour) , the longest-running touring music festival to date in North America. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2001, Warped Tour was rebranded as Vans Warped Tour. [11] (#cite_note-11) Vans became the title sponsor of the US Open of Surfing (/wiki/US_Open_of_Surfing) in Huntington Beach, California (/wiki/Huntington_Beach,_California) , in 2014, [12] (#cite_note-12) and in 2010, the company sponsored the Duct Tape Invitational. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2022, to commence the US Open of Surfing period, Vans hosted the BMX Waffle Cup, a freestyle BMX (/wiki/Freestyle_BMX) invitational tournament. Their Huntington Beach skate park's course was modified by BMX riders for the tournament, and was themed after the US Open. [15] (#cite_note-15) Public skate parks [ edit ] Vans shoes in use on a skateboard Vans opened its first skate park (/wiki/Skatepark) in 1998 at The Outlets at Orange (/wiki/The_Outlets_at_Orange) , in Orange, California (/wiki/Orange,_California) . It features a 20,000-square-foot (1,900 m 2 ) indoor street course, 12 feet (3.7 m) deep combo pool, area for amateurs, mini ramps (/wiki/Half-pipe) , outdoor street course, and arcade. The park was updated in 2009. [16] (#cite_note-16) It has remained closed since March 2020, when BMX rider Tyler Kanarr died after sustaining major injuries in the park. [17] (#cite_note-17) The company built its second skate park in Huntington Beach, California, which opened to the public in 2010. It includes a 17,500-square-foot (1,630 m 2 ) skate bowl and a 25,000-square-foot (2,300 m 2 ) skate plaza. The park is 42,500 square feet (3,950 m 2 ), and Vans pays the city US$1 per year for its 20-year lease. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-park-19) There is a skate park in London, in The Old Vic Tunnels (/wiki/The_Old_Vic_Tunnels) , called House of Vans. [20] (#cite_note-20) In pop culture [ edit ] Major League Baseball (/wiki/Major_League_Baseball) pitcher Michael Lorenzen (/wiki/Michael_Lorenzen) plays baseball with customized Vans instead of baseball shoes. Vans' shoes have often been customized cosmetically by wearers, with many of their painting and drawing patterns being adopted by the company for their official models. Most notably, the checkerboard pattern, popular in ska (/wiki/Ska) and punk (/wiki/Punk_subculture) culture, was adopted after the company noticed skateboarders drawing it on their shoes. [21] (#cite_note-21) Vans reached its nationwide popularity when, in 1982, Sean Penn (/wiki/Sean_Penn) wore a pair of Vans checkerboard slip-ons as character Jeff Spicoli in Fast Times at Ridgemont High (/wiki/Fast_Times_at_Ridgemont_High) . [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) In 2016, the internet meme " Damn Daniel (/wiki/Damn_Daniel) ", featuring California teen Daniel Lara wearing Vans, went viral. In appreciation, the company gave Lara a lifetime supply of Vans shoes. [22] (#cite_note-22) The Major League Baseball (/wiki/Major_League_Baseball) pitcher Michael Lorenzen (/wiki/Michael_Lorenzen) grew up skateboarding with Vans. As of 2023 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Vans&action=edit) , he plays baseball wearing customized Vans UltraRange Exos with cleats (/wiki/Cleat_(shoe)) , rather than traditional baseball shoes. [23] (#cite_note-WSJ_-_The_Sk8er_Boi_Who_Threw_a_No-Hitter_in_Vans-23) On August 9, 2023, Lorenzen became the first pitcher to throw a no-hitter (/wiki/No-hitter) in Vans; the Vans will be displayed in the National Baseball Hall of Fame (/wiki/National_Baseball_Hall_of_Fame_and_Museum) . [23] (#cite_note-WSJ_-_The_Sk8er_Boi_Who_Threw_a_No-Hitter_in_Vans-23) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "History" (https://www.vans.com/history.html#1966) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "VF Outdoor Completes Acquisition of Eagle Creek, Inc" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150402094616/http://www.vfc.com/index.php/news/press-releases?nws_id=48E9C0EE-B5BE-2ECF-E040-0A0A580069C5) . Archived from the original (http://www.vfc.com/index.php/news/press-releases?nws_id=48E9C0EE-B5BE-2ECF-E040-0A0A580069C5) on April 2, 2015 . Retrieved December 8, 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Home" (http://www.vans.com/) . Vans.com . Vans, A VF Company. August 2013 . Retrieved August 25, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Connelly, Laylan (March 11, 2016). "Happy 50th, Vans: How the iconic shoe brand born in Anaheim has kept on surviving" (http://www.ocregister.com/articles/vans-707801-shoe-company.html) . The Orange County Register (/wiki/The_Orange_County_Register) . Retrieved March 12, 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Vans, Inc. History" (http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/vans-inc-history/) . Funding Universe . 2012 . Retrieved August 25, 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Senn, Evan (January 12, 2019). "Off the Walls of Greatness: Vans, an Orange County Icon" (https://irvineweekly.com/off-the-walls-of-greatness-vans-an-orange-county-icon/) . Irvine Weekly . Retrieved April 4, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Lee, Allen (August 12, 2020). "The History and Story Behind the Vans Logo" (https://moneyinc.com/vans-logo/) . Money Inc . Retrieved April 4, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "VF Corp To Buy Vans For $396-Million Dollars" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170710124119/http://www.grindtv.com/surf/vf-corp-to-buy-vans-for-396-million-dollars/) . GrindTV . April 27, 2004. Archived from the original (http://www.grindtv.com/surf/vf-corp-to-buy-vans-for-396-million-dollars/#JC1RLmmeBORmuemj) on July 10, 2017 . Retrieved October 12, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Zwieglinska, Zofia (December 20, 2022). "Inside VF Corp's plans for The North Face, Supreme and a circular economy" (https://www.glossy.co/fashion/how-vf-corp-is-solidifying-its-circularity-efforts-for-2023/) . Glossy . Retrieved December 21, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Hiatt, Brian. "Rock & Roll: Punk-Rock Circus-How the No Frills Warped Tour Grew into America's Most Successful Festival." Rolling Stone 14 July 2005: 28. Print. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "History" (https://www.vans.com/history.html#1993) . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Bell, Jennie (April 20, 2016). "Vans Renews US Open of Surfing Sponsorship Through 2018" (http://footwearnews.com/2016/focus/athletic-outdoor/vans-us-open-of-surfing-sponsorship-renewal-213581/) . Footwear News . Retrieved September 3, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Story of the Duct Tape Invitational" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180413191131/https://ilovesurfing.org/longboard-competition-duct-tape-invitational/) . Archived from the original (https://ilovesurfing.org/longboard-competition-duct-tape-invitational/) on April 13, 2018 . Retrieved April 13, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Vans Duct Tape festival (https://www.vans.com/duct.html) ^ (#cite_ref-15) Raineri, JP (August 22, 2022). "Surf, Skate, BMX fans flock to Vans U.S. Open" (https://myvalleynews.com/blog/2022/08/22/surf-skate-bmx-fans-flock-to-vans-u-s-open/) . Valley News . Reedermedia, Inc . Retrieved December 4, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Vans Inc. to Build Skate Park at Mall in Orange" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1998-may-08-fi-47516-story.html) . Los Angeles Times . May 8, 1998 . Retrieved April 4, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Huntington Beach BMX Rider Tyler Kanarr Dies After Freak Accident At Vans Skatepark In Orange" (https://www.cbsnews.com/losangeles/news/tyler-kanarr-dead-vans-skatepark-orange-closed/) . CBS News . CBS Interactive Inc. March 6, 2020 . Retrieved December 4, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Fletcher, Jaimee Lynn (January 28, 2012). "H.B. OKs lease for first free Vans skate park" (http://www.ocregister.com/articles/park-337460-skate-city.html) . The Orange County Register (/wiki/The_Orange_County_Register) . p. Local 7. ^ (#cite_ref-park_19-0) Fletcher, Jaimee Lynn (March 22, 2014). "Vans to open free skatepark in H.B. Saturday" (http://www.ocregister.com/articles/vans-606467-park-doren.html) . The Orange County Register (/wiki/The_Orange_County_Register) . p. Local 2 . Retrieved March 22, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Under London: Disused Tunnel Now a Subterranean Skate Park" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150827042657/http://weburbanist.com/2014/08/25/under-london-disused-tunnel-now-a-subterranean-skate-park/) . Webist Media. August 25, 2014. Archived from the original (http://weburbanist.com/2014/08/25/under-london-disused-tunnel-now-a-subterranean-skate-park/) on August 27, 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Baylis, Morgan (May 15, 2020). "Checkered Vans: A Brief History" (https://stockx.com/news/checkered-vans-a-brief-history/) . StockX . Retrieved December 4, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) " (https://www.buzzfeed.com/michelleregna/damn-daniel-was-on-ellen#.gswR11LRr) 'Damn Daniel' Was Back At It Again With The White Vans On 'Ellen' (https://www.buzzfeed.com/michelleregna/damn-daniel-was-on-ellen#.gswR11LRr) " (https://www.buzzfeed.com/michelleregna/damn-daniel-was-on-ellen#.gswR11LRr) . BuzzFeed . February 24, 2016 . Retrieved March 9, 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b Lindsey Adler (August 11, 2023). "The Sk8er Boi Who Threw a No-Hitter in Vans" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/michale-lorenzen-no-hitter-phillies-vans-nike-f79147ae) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0099-9660 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0099-9660) . Wikidata (/wiki/WDQ_(identifier)) Q121391600 (https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q121391600) . Retrieved August 13, 2023 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.vans.com/) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Greater Los Angeles (/wiki/Portal:Greater_Los_Angeles) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐76ff5d997‐lxzt8 Cached time: 20240710232308 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.546 seconds Real time usage: 0.711 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2844/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 51361/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3069/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 20/100 Expensive parser function count: 10/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 84493/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.362/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 8989898/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 4/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 649.910 1 -total 42.35% 275.228 1 Template:Reflist 26.05% 169.293 1 Template:Infobox_company 24.09% 156.570 1 Template:Infobox 21.45% 139.382 16 Template:Cite_web 13.74% 89.319 1 Template:Cite_Q 10.43% 67.755 1 Template:Short_description 5.98% 38.834 1 Template:Portal_bar 5.79% 37.651 2 Template:Pagetype 5.26% 34.216 1 Template:Hlist Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1233558-0!canonical and timestamp 20240710232308 and revision id 1233799467. 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Having a woman's torso exposed above the waist "Topless" redirects here. For other uses, see Topless (disambiguation) (/wiki/Topless_(disambiguation)) . Topless woman at the 2008 Oregon Country Fair (/wiki/Oregon_Country_Fair) Toplessness refers to the state in which a woman's breasts (/wiki/Breast) , including her areolas (/wiki/Areola) and nipples (/wiki/Nipple) , are exposed, especially in a public place or in a visual medium. The male equivalent is known as barechestedness . Social norms (/wiki/Social_norm) around toplessness vary by context and location. Many indigenous societies (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples) consider breast exposure to be normal and uncontroversial. At specific beaches and resort destinations, notably in Europe and Australia, girls and women may sunbathe topless either by statute or by custom. However, in most countries, norms of female modesty (/wiki/Modesty) require girls and women to cover their breasts in public, and many jurisdictions prosecute public toplessness as indecent exposure (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) . The topfreedom (/wiki/Topfreedom) movement opposes such laws on the grounds of gender equality (/wiki/Gender_equality) . Art and visual media throughout history, from painting (/wiki/Painting) and sculpture (/wiki/Sculpture) to film (/wiki/Film) and photography (/wiki/Photography) , have frequently featured toplessness. Such representations are often defended on the grounds of artistic merit (/wiki/Artistic_merit) ; toplessness may also be defended on educational, medical, or political grounds. Toplessness also features prominently in erotica (/wiki/Erotica) , pornography (/wiki/Pornography) , and at adult venues ranging from strip clubs (/wiki/Strip_clubs) to upmarket cabarets (/wiki/Cabarets) (such as the Moulin Rouge (/wiki/Moulin_Rouge) ). Usage and connotations Two Tahitian (/wiki/Tahiti) Women (1899) by Paul Gauguin (/wiki/Paul_Gauguin) The word "topless" usually refers to a woman whose breasts, including her areolas and nipples, are exposed to public view. It can describe a woman who appears, poses, or performs with her breasts exposed, such as a "topless model" or "topless dancer", or to an activity undertaken while not wearing a top, such as "topless sunbathing". It may indicate a designated location where one might expect to find women not wearing tops, such as a "topless beach" or "topless bar". It can also be used to describe a garment that is specifically designed to reveal the breasts, such as the "topless swimsuit" (also known as the monokini (/wiki/Monokini) ) designed by Rudi Gernreich (/wiki/Rudi_Gernreich) in the 1960s. [1] (#cite_note-1) The word "topless" may carry sexual or exhibitionist connotations. Because of this, advocates of women's legal right to uncover their breasts wherever men may go bare-chested have adopted the alternative term "topfree", which is not perceived to have these connotations. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Barechestedness A barechested man running out of the water Barechestedness is the state of a man or boy wearing no clothes above the waist, exposing the upper torso. Bare male chests are generally considered acceptable in or around the house; at beaches, swimming pools and sunbathing areas; when exercising outside in hot weather; and in certain outdoor construction work settings. However, some stores and restaurants have a "no shirt, no service" rule to prevent barechested men from coming inside. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) While going barechested at outdoor activities may be acceptable, it is taboo in workplaces, churches and other formal settings. In most societies, male barechestedness is much more common than female toplessness, even among children. Exposure of the male pectoral muscles is often considered to be far less taboo than of the female breasts, despite some considering them equally erogenous. Male barechestedness is often ascribed to practical reasons such as heat, or the ability to move the body without being restricted by an upper body garment. In several sports, such as swimming and boxing, it is encouraged or even obligatory for males to be barechested. Barechestedness may also be used as a display of power, or to draw attention to oneself, especially if the upper body muscles are well-developed. [6] (#cite_note-6) Exposure Duplessis (/wiki/Joseph_Duplessis) 's portrait of Marie Thérèse Louise of Savoy (/wiki/Marie_Th%C3%A9r%C3%A8se_Louise_of_Savoy,_Princesse_de_Lamballe) baring a nipple dates from 18th-century France. The cultural tendency to hide the female nipple under clothing has existed in Western culture since the 1800s. [7] (#cite_note-auto-7) [8] (#cite_note-Dewar-8) [9] (#cite_note-bbc1-9) As female nipples are often perceived an intimate part (/wiki/Intimate_part) , covering them might have originated under Victorian morality (/wiki/Victorian_morality) as with riding side saddle. Exposing the entire breast and nipple is a form of protest for some and a crime for others. [9] (#cite_note-bbc1-9) [10] (#cite_note-citypaper-10) The exposure of nipples is usually considered immodest (/wiki/Modesty) and in some instances is viewed as lewd (/wiki/Lewd) or indecent (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) behavior. [11] (#cite_note-11) A case in Erie, Pennsylvania, concerning the exposure of breasts and nipple proceeded to the US Supreme Court, City of Erie v. Pap's A. M. (/wiki/City_of_Erie_v._Pap%27s_A._M.) . [12] (#cite_note-SC_Erie-12) The Erie ordinance was regulating the nipple in public as an act that is committed when a person "knowingly or intentionally, ... appears in a state of nudity commits Public Indecency." Later in the statute, nudity is further described as an uncovered female nipple. But nipple exposure of a man was not regulated. An opinion column credited to Cecil Adams (/wiki/Cecil_Adams) noted: "Ponder the significance of that. A man walks around bare-chested and the worst that happens is he won't get served in restaurants. But a woman who goes topless is legally in the same boat as if she'd had sex in public. That may seem crazy, but in the US it's a permissible law." [10] (#cite_note-citypaper-10) The legality around the exposure of nipples is inconsistently regulated throughout the US. Some states do not allow the visualization of any part of the breast. Other jurisdictions prohibit any female chest anatomy by banning anatomical structures that lie below the top of the areola or nipple. Such is the case in West Virginia and Massachusetts. West Virginia's regulation is very specific and is not likely to be misinterpreted, stating: "[The] display of 'any portion of the cleavage of the human female breast exhibited by a dress, blouse, skirt, leotard, bathing suit, or other wearing apparel [is permitted] provided the areola is not exposed, in whole or in part. ' " [10] (#cite_note-citypaper-10) Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) has a "no nipples" policy with exceptions: material that is not allowed includes "some photos of female nipples, but photos of post- mastectomy (/wiki/Mastectomy) scarring and women actively breastfeeding are allowed. Nudity in photos of paintings and sculptures is OK, too". [13] (#cite_note-Instagram_Help-13) Previously, Instagram had removed images of nursing mothers. Instagram removed images of Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) and had her account cancelled in 2014 when she posted selfies with nipples. This was incentive for the Twitter campaign #FreeTheNipple (/wiki/Free_the_nipple) . [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2016, an Instagram page invited users to post images of nipples from both sexes; @genderless_nipples, which displays close ups of both the nipples of men and women for the purpose of spotlighting what may be inconsistency. [15] (#cite_note-genderless-15) Some contributors have circumvented the policy. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-db-17) Facebook has also been struggling to define its nipple policy. [15] (#cite_note-genderless-15) [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) Filmmaker Lina Esco (/wiki/Lina_Esco) made a film entitled Free the Nipple (/wiki/Free_the_Nipple_(film)) , which is about "laws against female toplessness or restrictions on images of female, but not male, nipples", which Esco states is an example of sexism (/wiki/Sexism) in society. [17] (#cite_note-db-17) In traditional societies Two Wichita (/wiki/Wichita_people) Native Americans in summer dress (1870) Attitudes towards toplessness have varied considerably across cultures and over time. The lack of clothing above the waist for both females and males was the norm in traditional cultures of North America, Africa, Australia and the Pacific Islands until the arrival of Christian missionaries, and it continues to be the norm in many indigenous cultures today. The practice was also the norm in various Asian cultures (/wiki/Culture_of_Asia) before Muslim expansion in the 13th and 14th centuries. [20] (#cite_note-20) Minoan civilization During the Middle Minoan Era (2000–1600 BCE), women wore close-fitting blouses that were cut low in the front and exposed the breasts. The breasts were further emphasized by a narrow waist, similar to the shape that corsets gave women during the late 1800s. [21] (#cite_note-21) India Main article: History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/History_of_clothing_in_the_Indian_subcontinent) In certain parts of northern India, some women did not wear an upper garment except during winter before the Muslim conquest of India (/wiki/Muslim_conquest_of_India) . Women and men typically wore an antriya (/wiki/Antriya) on the lower body and were nude from the waist up, aside from pieces of jewelry. This was the standard form of dress unless women opted to wear a sari (/wiki/Sari) , in which case they covered their upper bodies with a robe. [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-23) Toplessness was the norm for women among several communities of South India and Sri Lanka until the 19th or early 20th century. Such communities included the Tamils (/wiki/Tamils) along the Coromandel Coast (/wiki/Coromandel_Coast) , Tiyan (/wiki/Tiyan) and other peoples on the Malabar Coast (/wiki/Malabar_Coast) , Kadar of Cochin (/wiki/Cochin) Island, Toda (/wiki/Toda_people) , Cheruman ( Pulayar (/wiki/Pulayar) ), Kuruba (/wiki/Kuruba) , Koraga (/wiki/Koraga_people) , Nicobarese (/wiki/Nicobarese_people) , and the Uriya. [24] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-24) Thailand In traditional Thai society, women dressed similarly to men, wearing only a loose lower garment while normally being bare-breasted. [25] (#cite_note-25) Before the introduction of Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) , Thai women were depicted both fully clothed and topless in public. Until the early 20th century, women from northern Thailand wore a long tube-skirt ( Pha-Sin ), tied high above their waist and below their breasts, which were uncovered. In the late 19th century the influence of missionaries and modernization under King Chulalongkorn (/wiki/Chulalongkorn) encouraged local women to cover their breasts with blouses. [26] (#cite_note-26) Between 1939 and 1942, the government of Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram (/wiki/Plaek_Pibulsonggram) issued a series of cultural standards (/wiki/Thai_cultural_mandates) ; Mandate 10, issued on 8 September 1941, instructed Thai people not to appear in public places "without being appropriately dressed". Inappropriate dress included "wearing no shirt or wearing a wraparound cloth". [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) Laos In Laos (/wiki/Laos) , Frenchman Henri Mouhot (/wiki/Henri_Mouhot) took a picture in 1858 of Laotian women that depicted virgins with clothed breasts and married women with their entire breasts exposed in public, because the baring of breasts for breastfeeding was considered to be nonsexual. [29] (#cite_note-29) Indonesia Sea Dayaks (/wiki/Dayak_people) (Iban) women from Rejang, Sarawak, Malaysia (c. 1910) In the Indonesian archipelago (/wiki/Indonesia) , toplessness was the norm (/wiki/Norm_(social)) among the Dayak (/wiki/Dayak_people) , Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_people) , and the Balinese people (/wiki/Balinese_people) of Indonesia before the introduction of Islam (/wiki/Spread_of_Islam_in_Indonesia) and contact with Western cultures. In Javanese and Balinese societies, women had gone topless to work or rest comfortably. Among the Dayak, only big-breasted women or married women with sagging (/wiki/Ptosis_(breasts)) breasts covered their breasts because their breasts interfered with their work. [24] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-24) [ clarification needed ] Middle East Further information: Intimate parts in Islam (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) and Sexual taboo in the Middle East (/wiki/Sexual_taboo_in_the_Middle_East) In most Middle Eastern countries, toplessness has not been socially accepted since at least the beginning of Islam (7th century), because of Islamic standards for female modesty (/wiki/Purdah) . However, toplessness was the norm in some pre-Islamic cultures (/wiki/Women_in_pre-Islamic_Arabia) in Arabia (/wiki/Arabia#Ancient_history) , Egypt, Assyria (/wiki/Assyria) and Mesopotamia (/wiki/Mesopotamia) . Tunisia and Egypt are an exception among Arabic states, allowing foreign tourists to swim topless on private beaches. [30] (#cite_note-30) Africa Among Himba (/wiki/Himba_people) of northern Namibia (/wiki/Namibia) (left) and Hamar (/wiki/Hamar_people) (right) of southern Ethiopia (/wiki/Ethiopia) , it is a social norm for women to be bare-breasted. Among Himba (/wiki/Himba_people) women of northern Namibia (/wiki/Namibia) and Hamar (/wiki/Hamar_people) of southern Ethiopia (/wiki/Ethiopia) , besides other traditional groups in Africa, the social norm is for women to be bare-breasted. Female toplessness can also constitute an important aspect of indigenous cultural celebrations. For example, in the annual Reed Dance festival (/wiki/Umhlanga_(ceremony)) mature girls between the ages of 16 and 20 dance topless before the Zulu king. [31] (#cite_note-31) A Namibian (/wiki/Namibian) woman going topless Australia Traditional topless practices can lead to cross-cultural and legal conflict. In 2004, Australian police banned members of the Papunya (/wiki/Papunya) community from using a public park in the city of Alice Springs (/wiki/Alice_Springs) to practice a traditional Aboriginal (/wiki/Australian_Aborigines) dance that included topless women. [32] (#cite_note-news-32) Korea In the 16th century, women's jeogori (/wiki/Jeogori) (an upper garment) was long, wide, and covered the waist. [33] (#cite_note-저고리-33) The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened: it was approximately 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm. [33] (#cite_note-저고리-33) A heoritti (허리띠) or jorinmal (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts. [33] (#cite_note-저고리-33) The trend of wearing a short jeogori with a heoritti was started by the gisaeng (/wiki/Gisaeng) and soon spread to women of the upper class. [33] (#cite_note-저고리-33) Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they revealed their breasts after childbirth to proudly indicate that they had given birth to a son, i.e., a male heir. [34] (#cite_note-34) Travelers like the American Harry A. Franck (/wiki/Harry_A._Franck) remarked that they "displayed to the public gaze exactly that portion of the torso which the women of most nations take pains to conceal". [35] (#cite_note-35) South Pacific A portrait of a woman on Tuvalu (/wiki/Tuvalu) in 1894 by Count Rudolf Festetics de Tolna In the South Pacific, toplessness was common prior to contact with Western missionaries, but is less common today. On the French territory of Moorea (/wiki/Moorea) , toplessness is common. [36] (#cite_note-36) In the Marshall Islands (/wiki/Marshall_Islands) , women were traditionally topless before contact with Western missionaries and still do not sexually objectify (/wiki/Sexual_objectification) female breasts as is common in much of Western society (/wiki/Western_world) . [37] (#cite_note-briand-37) Marshall Island women typically swim in their muumuus (/wiki/Muumuu) which today are made of a fine polyester that dries quickly. [38] (#cite_note-encyclopedia-38) Wearing of bikinis and one-piece, breast-covering swimsuits in the Marshall Islands is mainly seen at Western, restricted-access beaches and swimming pools like those at private resorts or on United States government facilities on the Kwajalein Atoll (/wiki/Kwajalein_Atoll) within the Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defense Test Site (/wiki/Ronald_Reagan_Ballistic_Missile_Defense_Test_Site) . [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) Vietnam During the Vietnam War (/wiki/Vietnam_War) , American GIs encountered the Montagnards, native inhabitants of the Central Highlands, whose women Infantry Lieutenant A.T. Lawrence described "completely uninhibited in their bare-breasted nakedness". [41] (#cite_note-41) Japan In traditional Japanese society, topless nudity ( hadanugi ) and complete nudity ( maru hadaka ) were widely accepted culturally and morally for both men and women, with the exception of the samurai aristocracy. [42] (#cite_note-42) It was not uncommon to see women, young and old, with torso exposed. [43] (#cite_note-43) Francis Hall, 1861, described such an encounter: "The screens of the house are wide open to the street for the summer fervors are great and a half dozen women, married as their black teeth denote, are lying face downwards and leaning upon their elbows on the mats. Each one has thrown off her upper garments from her shoulders and is bare to the waist balancing this nudity by tucking up her lower garments till her legs are left bare to her thighs. Their faces are to the center of the room and their feet describe the periphery of a circle." [44] (#cite_note-44) In Western societies In most Western societies (/wiki/Western_world) , it is a cultural norm (/wiki/Social_norm) for girls after puberty (/wiki/Puberty) , if not earlier, to have their breasts covered especially while in a public place, as an act of modesty (/wiki/Modesty) . At least, it is not culturally acceptable for women to expose their nipples and areolas in public. Though many women do not regard their breasts as sexual, most would not go against the social norm, let alone challenge various laws that cover toplessness. Until recent times, women who went topless in a public place may have been cited for indecent exposure (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) , lewdness (/wiki/Lascivious) or similar laws. Women and the law in most Western countries generally do not regard breasts as indecent. [ citation needed ] Some women campaign for what they call "topfreedom", seeking to change these laws. The strictness of the etiquette varies depending on the social context. For example, at specific cultural events the norm may be relaxed, such as at Fantasy Fest (/wiki/Fantasy_Fest) , at Mardi Gras (/wiki/Mardi_Gras) in New Orleans (/wiki/New_Orleans) and at the Carnaval (/wiki/Brazilian_Carnival) in Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) . The same may also apply at designated topless beaches. [ citation needed ] Agnès Sorel (/wiki/Agn%C3%A8s_Sorel) , known to appear topless in the French court, was the model for Virgin and Child Surrounded by Angels , by Jean Fouquet (/wiki/Jean_Fouquet) (c. 1450) Public breast-baring fashions In many European societies between the Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance) and the 19th century, exposed breasts were acceptable while a woman's bared legs, ankles or shoulders were considered risqué. [45] (#cite_note-45) During the Renaissance, many artists were strongly influenced by classical Greek (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) styles and culture, [46] (#cite_note-Nigel_Llewellyn_1660-46) and images of nude and semi-nude subjects in many forms proliferated in art, sculpture and architecture of the period. [46] (#cite_note-Nigel_Llewellyn_1660-46) In aristocratic (/wiki/Aristocracy_(class)) and upper-class circles the display of breasts also invoked associations with classical Greek nude sculptures and art and a classic breast shape was at times regarded as a status symbol (/wiki/Status_symbol) , as a sign of beauty, wealth or social position. To maintain youthful-looking bosoms women could employ wet nurses (/wiki/Wet_nurse) to breastfeed their children. [47] (#cite_note-47) Breast-baring female fashions have been traced to 15th-century courtesan Agnès Sorel (/wiki/Agn%C3%A8s_Sorel) , mistress to Charles VII of France (/wiki/Charles_VII_of_France) , whose gowns in the French court sometimes exposed one or both of her breasts. ( Jean Fouquet (/wiki/Jean_Fouquet) 's portrayal of the Virgin Mary (/wiki/Virgin_Mary) with her left breast uncovered is believed to have taken Sorel as a model.) Aristocratic women sought to immortalise their breasts in paint, as in the case of Simonetta Vespucci (/wiki/Simonetta_Vespucci) , whose portrait with exposed breasts (/wiki/Portrait_of_Simonetta_Vespucci) was painted by Piero di Cosimo (/wiki/Piero_di_Cosimo) in c. 1480. During the 16th century, women's fashions displaying their breasts were common in society, from Queens to common prostitutes, and emulated by all classes. [48] (#cite_note-48) Similar fashions became popular in England during the 17th century when they were worn by Queen Mary II (/wiki/Mary_II_of_England) and by Henrietta Maria (/wiki/Henrietta_Maria_of_France) , wife of Charles I of England (/wiki/Charles_I_of_England) , for whom architect Inigo Jones (/wiki/Inigo_Jones) designed a masque (/wiki/Masque) costume that fully revealed both of her breasts. [46] (#cite_note-Nigel_Llewellyn_1660-46) In a survey of 190 different societies, researches found that very few associated exposed breasts with sexuality, but that there was an insistence that women conceal their breasts. [49] (#cite_note-herold-49) Different standards apply to art, with one example being the dome of the United States Capitol (/wiki/United_States_Capitol) featuring an 1865 fresco (/wiki/The_Apotheosis_of_Washington) depicting goddesses with their breasts exposed. [50] (#cite_note-50) Social attitudes Although some social attitudes to increased body exposure began to soften during the late 1960s, contemporary Western societies still generally view toplessness unfavorably. During a short period in 1964, "topless" dress designs appeared at fashion shows, but those who wore the dresses in public found themselves arrested on indecency charges. [51] (#cite_note-51) However, toplessness has come to be a feature in contemporary haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) fashion shows. The Imitation of Christ (/wiki/Imitation_of_Christ_(designs)) fashion line incorporated toplessness in its 2002 fashion show, which brought comparisons to Vanessa Beecroft (/wiki/Vanessa_Beecroft) 's art [52] (#cite_note-Imitation-of-Christ-52) A wide-ranging review of 190 different societies during 1951 found that few insisted that women conceal their breasts. In Europe, topless swimming and sunbathing on public beaches has become socially acceptable. In 1994–95, Australian researchers asked 118 college-age students to rate the behavior of women who go topless on an 8-point scale, ranging from "Women should have the same right to topless as men" to "Topless women are exhibitionists". They found that 88% of Australian university students of either gender considered it acceptable for women to go topless on public beaches, although they felt that women exposing their breasts in other contexts, such as public parks, was inappropriate. [49] (#cite_note-herold-49) [53] (#cite_note-herold2-53) They did not find a correlation between exposed breasts and sexuality in social situations. A more recent study of 116 college-age women in Australia found that those who had gone topless were more accepting of toplessness generally, more sexual, and had higher self-esteem and higher body image. [49] (#cite_note-herold-49) In contemporary society, the extent to which a woman may expose her breasts depends on social and cultural context. Women's swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) and bikinis (/wiki/Bikini) commonly reveal the tops and sides of the breasts. Displaying cleavage (/wiki/Cleavage_(breasts)) is considered permissible in many settings, and is even a sign of elegance and sophistication on many formal social occasions, but it may be prohibited by dress codes (/wiki/Dress_code) in settings such as workplaces and schools, where sexualized displays of the female breast may be considered inappropriate. In a number of cultures, including Europe and other Westernized countries outside the United States, there are fewer social restrictions against sunbathing (/wiki/Suntanning) or swimming topless. [54] (#cite_note-Marks-54) Despite being illegal or socially proscribed in many places in the United States, topless beaches have majority legislative support in some areas. [55] (#cite_note-55) In Canada, a poll in 1992 found that 38% favored general female public toplessness. Following that survey, several legal rulings in Canadian courts from 1996 to 2000 made public toplessness legal, but very few women go topless in public. [56] (#cite_note-fischtein-56) Some cultures have even begun to expand social prohibitions on female toplessness to prepubescent and even infant girls. This trend toward covering the female nipple from infancy onward is particularly noticeable in the United States, Eastern Asia and the Middle East, but is much less common in Europe. [57] (#cite_note-heinonline-57) In politics and law See also: Breastfeeding in public (/wiki/Breastfeeding_in_public) Political attitudes and laws vary greatly around the world in regards to female toplessness. [58] (#cite_note-58) Asia Taiwan In support of Icelandic student Adda Smaradottir (/w/index.php?title=Adda_Smaradottir&action=edit&redlink=1) 's FreeTheNipple act in public cyberspace, [59] (#cite_note-LUS-59) young women uploaded their topless photos to Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) and protested against its Community Standards [60] (#cite_note-fbcs-60) of considering women's breasts as sexual materials. Those photos and related news articles were blocked initially, [61] (#cite_note-appledaily-61) but Facebook considered those photos did not violate Community Standards. [59] (#cite_note-LUS-59) Europe Denmark Bathing and sunbathing in the nude (including topless) is legal on Danish beaches. [62] (#cite_note-DKNu-62) Nudity and toplessness in other public outdoor places is generally also legal, unless it involves "offensive conduct" or is likely to cause public outrage. [62] (#cite_note-DKNu-62) [63] (#cite_note-63) The public outrage law is rarely used in practice, but in 1972 audience members were convicted of being nude in the Royal Danish Theatre (/wiki/Royal_Danish_Theatre) . [62] (#cite_note-DKNu-62) In December 2007, a group of women and men calling themselves Topless Front swam topless in public swim baths to promote topless equality. [64] (#cite_note-polalti-64) In March 2008, after a campaign by the group, Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen) 's Culture and Leisure Committee voted to allow topless bathing in its swimming pools. After the committee had voted, it was revealed that no laws had existed against topless bathing, effectively making the vote unnecessary. However, some public baths had (and have) restricted it themselves. [64] (#cite_note-polalti-64) Public breastfeeding is supported by the vast majority of both sexes in Denmark, [65] (#cite_note-65) is entirely legal and accepted in almost all places, except for a few private cafés and restaurants that have restricted it. [66] (#cite_note-66) [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-68) Finland In Finland, toplessness is not illegal, yet topless women have been removed from beaches. [69] (#cite_note-69) Sandra Marins (/w/index.php?title=Sandra_Marins&action=edit&redlink=1) and Säde Vallarén (/w/index.php?title=S%C3%A4de_Vallar%C3%A9n&action=edit&redlink=1) criticized this and organized Finland's first event demanding topless equality, called Tissiflashmob (/wiki/Tissiflashmob) (Breast flash mob). [70] (#cite_note-70) On Finland's Independence day, 6 December 2019, both Marins and Vallarén showed their breasts on live TV and it sparked a lot of conversation. [71] (#cite_note-71) Tissiflashmob 2020 was bigger than the previous one, now organized at the same time in eight different cities. [72] (#cite_note-72) France In France, the feminist collective Les TumulTueuses organized a topfree protest in Paris in May 2009. [73] (#cite_note-73) It is legal to sunbathe topless in France, although local regulations may ban the practice with directives about clothing. In 2020, after a police incident, topless sunbathing was defended by the French interior minister. [74] (#cite_note-74) Germany See also: Naturism in Germany (/wiki/Naturism_in_Germany) and Freikörperkultur (/wiki/Freik%C3%B6rperkultur) There are few legal restriction on public nudity in Germany. A number of court cases have established a de facto right to nudity in the vicinity of beaches, which is broadly tolerated. Swimming pools, whether private or public, can establish their own dress regulations. [75] (#cite_note-focus-75) In 2022, a woman in Berlin (/wiki/Berlin) was told to cover up her chest at a public swimming pool, and was forced to leave when she refused to do so. This led to a successful legal complaint on the basis of gender discrimination, as the men at the pool were not similarly obligated to cover their chests. [76] (#cite_note-76) In March 2023, the city's pool authorities updated their regulations to permit all guests to be topless, regardless of gender. [77] (#cite_note-77) [78] (#cite_note-78) [79] (#cite_note-79) Several other German cities, such as Dresden (/wiki/Dresden) , Göttingen (/wiki/G%C3%B6ttingen) , and Hannover (/wiki/Hannover) , have also issued rules explicitly recognizing that persons of all genders have a right to be topless at public swimming pools. [80] (#cite_note-80) [75] (#cite_note-focus-75) Nudity in nature is a legal gray area, as it is not specifically forbidden, but can be treated as a public nuisance in the event of a complaint. Security services and law enforcement agencies may ask women to cover their breasts, usually under § 118 of the Ordnungswidrigkeitengesetz , which forbids vaguely defined "nuisances to public order". For parks and swimming areas owned or operated by a municipality or private company, the house regulations apply. These house regulations commonly specify that women, but not men, must cover their chests, and are increasingly seen as discriminatory. [81] (#cite_note-81) Courts have protected the right to nudity at home and on one's own property, even if visible to others. Nudity on one's own property can only be restricted in very exceptional circumstances, usually limited to cases involving "moral or sexual harassment". [82] (#cite_note-82) Greece In Greece, toplessness is legal. [83] (#cite_note-83) [84] (#cite_note-84) Iceland In Iceland, toplessness is legal in public. Italy Female toplessness has been officially legalized (in a nonsexual context) in all public beaches and swimming pools throughout the country (unless otherwise specified by region (/wiki/Regions_of_Italy) , province (/wiki/Provinces_of_Italy) or municipality (/wiki/Comune) by-laws) on 20 March 2000, when the Supreme Court of Cassation (/wiki/Supreme_Court_of_Cassation_(Italy)) (through sentence No. 3557) determined that the exposure of the nude female breast, after several decades, is now considered a "commonly accepted behavior", and therefore, has "entered into the social costume". [85] (#cite_note-85) Poland In Poland in 2008–2009, two women from Szczecin (/wiki/Szczecin) including glamour model (/wiki/Glamour_model) Dorota Krzysztofek (/wiki/Dorota_Krzysztofek) , [86] (#cite_note-ckm-86) won a court battle that reasserted the women's right to sunbathe topless on public beaches. [87] (#cite_note-pardon-87) Krzysztofek, along with her female companion, were fined by local municipal officials for topless sunbathing at a public recreation area. The women refused to pay the fine and took the matter to Civil Court. Their first hearing had to be postponed due to remarkable media interest. [88] (#cite_note-wyborcza-88) On November 7, 2008, judge Szczepańska upheld the city staff decision, and charged the women with indecent exposure, explaining that their personal freedoms cannot encroach on the freedoms of families with children who frequent the same recreation spot. Although topless sunbathing is not prohibited in Poland, the judge sentenced them to pay a fine of 230 zlotys (/wiki/Polish_zloty) (150 zlotys by different source, [89] (#cite_note-france24-89) or € (/wiki/Euro) 40, $ (/wiki/Dollar) 55) for breaking the rules of conduct. In her rationale, the judge also said that it is not up to the defendants to teach youngsters human anatomy; however, her decision was appealed by Krzysztofek's female friend soon afterwards, with the plea of not guilty. [87] (#cite_note-pardon-87) [90] (#cite_note-attuworld-90) In 2009, the appellate court declared both women to be innocent, [91] (#cite_note-wyborcza.pl-2-91) because the city staff were unable to prove that anyone at the beach was indignant or scandalized by their toplessness, and no complaint was ever reported. On the contrary, some visitors stood up to their defense. There were no signs at the recreation area against what is otherwise legal. [89] (#cite_note-france24-89) The appellate court's decision was binding, but it also created an aura of ambivalence, with topless sunbathing in public declared acceptable only if nobody else including families with children formally objects to it. [87] (#cite_note-pardon-87) [92] (#cite_note-polandian-92) Spain There are no laws in Spain that officially prohibit public nudity (in a non-sexual context), [93] (#cite_note-93) and because of this, both topless sunbathing and naturism (the latter on a smaller scale) are frequently practiced without any issues in all beaches throughout the country, [94] (#cite_note-94) while the amount of partakers may vary depending on the location and the day. It is very common in the Balearic Islands (/wiki/Balearic_Islands) , [95] (#cite_note-95) Canaries, Costa Brava and Costa del Sol (a few municipalities, such as Barcelona (/wiki/Barcelona) , have created by-laws to forbid public nudity, including female toplessness on their streets, not on the beach). [96] (#cite_note-96) Due to the widespread practice of topless sunbathing, the municipalities of Galdakao (/wiki/Galdakao) and L'Ametlla del Vallès (/wiki/L%27Ametlla_del_Vall%C3%A8s) decided to legalize female toplessness on their public pools (in March 2016 and June 2018, respectively), [97] (#cite_note-97) [98] (#cite_note-98) and it is tolerated in many others, like in Madrid (without the need of a specific rule). It is less common on private or condominium pools, and a few have by-laws to ban it. Moreover, there are some surveys indicating that more than 40% of the Spanish women who were interviewed (aged 18 or older) reported to have been topless on a beach at least once. [99] (#cite_note-99) [100] (#cite_note-100) Sweden In Sweden, toplessness is not illegal. It is a little unclear, because the law usually used against nudity is about "annoying behaviour" [101] (#cite_note-101) – it does not say anything about how undressed one can be, so it is a matter of legal tradition, although there is a law against gender discrimination (/wiki/Discrimination) . [102] (#cite_note-102) However, private or public establishments are permitted to establish dress codes (/wiki/Dress_code) which may require women to wear tops, and deny access or remove individuals who breach these standards. In September 2007, " Bara Bröst (/wiki/Bara_Br%C3%B6st) " (a pun meaning both "Just Breasts" and "Bare Breasts") appeared to promote topless equality in these semi-public facilities. The group staged several events in public swim baths in September and October 2007, starting in Uppsala (/wiki/Uppsala) from which they were evicted several times, before succeeding in Sundsvall (/wiki/Sundsvall) . [103] (#cite_note-103) [104] (#cite_note-104) The group scored a victory in June 2009 when the Malmö (/wiki/Malm%C3%B6) city's sports and recreation committee approved new rules that, while requiring everybody to wear bathing suits at indoor public swimming pools, did not require women to cover their breasts. [105] (#cite_note-105) [106] (#cite_note-Inquisitr.com-106) "We don't define what bathing suits men should wear so it doesn't make much sense to do it for women. And besides, it's not unusual for men to have large breasts that resemble women's breasts", said a council spokesman. [106] (#cite_note-Inquisitr.com-106) North America Canada Main article: Female toplessness in Canada (/wiki/Female_toplessness_in_Canada) In 1991 toplessness as an indecent act was challenged by Gwen Jacob in Guelph (/wiki/Guelph) , Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) , who removed her shirt and was charged with indecency. Part of her defense was the double standards (/wiki/Double_standard) between men and women. Although she was convicted, this was overturned by the Court of Appeal. [107] (#cite_note-QueenvsJacob-107) This case determined that being topless is not indecent under the meaning of the Criminal Code. However it did not establish any constitutional right of equality. This case subsequently led to the acquittal of women in British Columbia (/wiki/British_Columbia) and Saskatchewan (/wiki/Saskatchewan) who faced similar charges. Although each province and territory technically reserves its right to interpret the law as it pleases, the Ontario case has proven influential. Since the matter has not been determined by the Supreme Court of Canada (/wiki/Supreme_Court_of_Canada) , it is still possible that a woman could be convicted elsewhere in Canada, but interpretation of moral law in Canada has become increasingly liberalized. [108] (#cite_note-108) There do not appear to have been any further women charged in Canada since these cases were determined. In February 2023, the cities of Edmonton (/wiki/Edmonton) and Calgary (/wiki/Calgary) , both in the province of Alberta (/wiki/Alberta) , changed their policies so that wearing bathing suit tops in city-operated pools was an individual's choice. [109] (#cite_note-109) [110] (#cite_note-110) Mexico The only public place in Mexico that officially allows female toplessness is Playa Zipolite (/wiki/Playa_Zipolite) (a nude beach located in the state of Oaxaca (/wiki/Oaxaca) ), where the practice of naturism was legalized in 2016. [111] (#cite_note-legal-111) However, the practice of topless sunbathing (as well as naturism in some cases) is commonly tolerated on a few beaches in the state of Quintana Roo (/wiki/Quintana_Roo) , more precisely in the Riviera Maya (/wiki/Riviera_Maya) region (especially between the cities of Playa del Carmen (/wiki/Playa_del_Carmen) and Tulum (/wiki/Tulum,_Quintana_Roo) ); furthermore, there are a few clothing-optional resorts made for adults only (also located in the Riviera Maya) where all men and women aged 18 (or older) can frequent the facilities without the need to wear clothes (if so they wish). [112] (#cite_note-112) United States Main article: Female toplessness in the United States (/wiki/Female_toplessness_in_the_United_States) Female toplessness laws in the United States by state and territory In the United States, states have primary jurisdiction in matters of public morality. The topfreedom movement has claimed success in a few instances in persuading some state and federal courts to overturn some state laws on the basis of sex discrimination (/wiki/Sex_discrimination) or equal protection (/wiki/Equal_protection) , arguing that a woman should be free to expose her chest in any context in which a man can expose his. Other successful cases have been on the basis of freedom of expression in protest, or simply that exposure of breasts is not indecent (or similar terminology). Laws and ordinances barring female toplessness are being challenged in federal courts around the nation. Each lawsuit, if it prevails at the appellate level, will legalize topfreedom in the following U.S. circuit courts of appeals (/wiki/United_States_courts_of_appeals) (from west to east): 9 (California), 8 (Missouri) and 1 (Maryland). A federal lawsuit in the 7th Circuit (Illinois), was lost at the appellate level and the petition for review by the U.S. Supreme Court was denied. A preliminary injunction (/wiki/Preliminary_injunction) in a federal lawsuit in the 10th Circuit (Colorado), was won at the appellate level. In September 2019, after spending over $300,000, Fort Collins (/wiki/Fort_Collins,_Colorado) decided to stop defending their ordinance and repeal it. That effectively gave females of all ages the right to go topless wherever males can in the jurisdiction of the 10th Circuit (Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Kansas and Oklahoma states as well as all counties and cities therein). [113] (#cite_note-williams-113) Oceania Australia In Australia, indecent exposure (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) laws only refer to the genital area, so technically both male and female toplessness is legal. However, many local councils impose their own rules, and have the power to ask topless people to leave an area. [114] (#cite_note-Lifehackerau-114) Additionally, women who go topless are sometimes slapped with more vague charges such as being a public nuisance, or offensive behaviour. [115] (#cite_note-115) On public beaches, local bylaws are not heavily enforced, and women can often sunbathe topless without legal repercussions. [114] (#cite_note-Lifehackerau-114) Breastfeeding in public places is a legal right in Australia. Under the Sex Discrimination Act 1984 (/wiki/Sex_Discrimination_Act_1984) , no business or service provider can discriminate against a breastfeeding woman. Women can still breastfeed even if no other food/drink is allowed in the area. If a special baby care room is available for breastfeeding, women are not required to use it unless they wish to. If someone abuses a breastfeeding woman or forces her to leave, this may come under state/territory harassment laws. These protections also include women who are expressing breast milk for their baby. [116] (#cite_note-116) New Zealand In New Zealand, there is no specific law prohibiting nudity in public places. If a person is nude and also exhibiting lewd and lascivious, or obscene behaviour, then they may fall afoul of laws. [117] (#cite_note-freebeaches-117) The High Court of New Zealand (/wiki/High_Court_of_New_Zealand) has upheld a conviction of disorderly conduct for nudity in the street, because it was not a place where nudity was known to occur or commonplace. Being nude in the street is likely to incur a small fine if a complaint is made against the person, or if the person ignores a police order to cover themselves. However, in practice, the likelihood of being prosecuted for nudity on a public beach is low, provided the person keeps to themselves. [117] (#cite_note-freebeaches-117) In 2012, a woman swam topless on Ōpunake (/wiki/%C5%8Cpunake) beach. The police were called, but informed the callers that toplessness was not an offence. [118] (#cite_note-118) In 2017, nudists used the beach at Tauranga (/wiki/Tauranga) , which caused consternation among some residents. However, the local council said there were no bylaws dealing with the issue, and that nudity was not an offence. [119] (#cite_note-119) South America Argentina Female toplessness is allowed in the official nude beaches of Puerto Escondido, [120] (#cite_note-120) located near Miramar (/wiki/Miramar,_Buenos_Aires_Province) , and Playa Querandí, [121] (#cite_note-121) located in Villa Gesell (/wiki/Villa_Gesell) , as well as in some private naturist resorts. On 7 February 2017, hundreds of topless women protested in Buenos Aires (/wiki/Buenos_Aires) , Córdoba (/wiki/C%C3%B3rdoba,_Argentina) , Mar del Plata (/wiki/Mar_del_Plata) and Rosario (/wiki/Rosario) , among other cities throughout the country. The protest was called in Spanish (/wiki/Spanish_language) tetazo (a portmanteau (/wiki/Portmanteau) of the Spanish word tetas , meaning "tits", and the Spanish suffix "-azo", which denotes a hitting action). [122] (#cite_note-RAE-122) The protestors objected against the "objectification" of the female body, and also disapproved the decision made by 20 police officers, who days before, had expelled from a beach located in Necochea (/wiki/Necochea) 3 women who were topless sunbathing there. [123] (#cite_note-123) [124] (#cite_note-124) Brazil The Article 233 of the Chapter VI of the Title VI of the Penal Code (/wiki/Penal_Code_of_Brazil) [125] (#cite_note-125) asserts that indecent exposure (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) (known in Portuguese (/wiki/Portuguese_language) as ato obsceno , meaning "obscene act") is a wrongdoing act punished with imprisonment or fine, but does not specify what are the nude parts of the human body which could be fitted on this misdemeanor. Despite this vagueness, female toplessness tends to be considered an "obscene act" by the Brazilian authorities, and the practice has been frequently repressed, including some arrests made by the police throughout the years. Generally, the practice of topless sunbathing by women has been accepted only in official nude beaches and in some private naturist clubs. However, for many years, there has been one notable exception: the Carnival in Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_Carnival) . During the famous two-night parades yearly held by 12 samba schools (/wiki/Samba_school) (6 on each day) at the Sambadrome Marquês de Sapucaí (/wiki/Sambadrome_Marqu%C3%AAs_de_Sapuca%C3%AD) , the official policy is that only the genital area cannot be publicly shown (in this case all nude men and women must wear a merkin (/wiki/Merkin) , which is known in Portuguese as tapa-sexo , roughly translated as "sex cover"). Thus, both men and women can openly expose their bare breasts and buttocks to the public during the marches without any problem. Since the early 2010s, there are reports of some small and sporadic protests, especially in some beaches located in Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) . These protests are called in Portuguese toplessaços (a portmanteau (/wiki/Portmanteau) of the English word "toplessness" and the Portuguese suffix "-aço", translated from the Spanish "-azo", which denotes a hitting action). [122] (#cite_note-RAE-122) In each protest, a group of women, soon after being reunited, decide to quickly take off all clothes they were wearing above the waist (including bras, bikinis or any other tops), culminating in a state of public "breast-flashing" for a few minutes before putting on their clothes again. This way, these are considered a kind of topless flash mob (/wiki/Flash_mob) protests. The purpose of these protests is to claim for the official legalization of female toplessness in Brazil under the principle of gender equality (/wiki/Gender_equality) . Chile Exposing the breasts in public is not a crime, although it is an offense applicable according to the Article 373 of the Penal Code [126] (#cite_note-126) to those who "in any way offend modesty or good customs". Similarly, the Article 495 says: "Shall be punished with a fine of one monthly tax unit (first paragraph) whoever contravenes the rules that the authority dictates to preserve public order or prevent it from being altered, unless the act constitutes a crime or simple offense". Faced with so much inconvenience, a group of women together with the photographer and pioneer of naturism in Chile, René Rojas, managed to create the first nude beach in the country in 2000, called Playa Luna (/wiki/Playa_Luna) , as well as the unofficial restricted areas that were created in Playa Luna Norte ( Tarapacá (/wiki/Tarapac%C3%A1) ), Playa Luna Sur (Coliumo), Playa Escondida ( Antofagasta (/wiki/Antofagasta) ), Playa Blanca ( Tongoy (/wiki/Tongoy) ) and Pichilemu (/wiki/Pichilemu) , where it is possible to completely undress with total normality. [127] (#cite_note-127) [128] (#cite_note-128) Uruguay The practice of female toplessness is allowed in the official nude beaches of Chihuahua, [129] (#cite_note-129) [130] (#cite_note-130) located in the resort of the same name (/wiki/Chihuahua,_Uruguay) , and La Sirena (/wiki/La_Sirena_Beach) , [131] (#cite_note-131) [132] (#cite_note-132) located in the resort of Aguas Dulces (/wiki/Aguas_Dulces) . As a form of liberation While an exposed breast in public can have many associated connotations, some women in America today argue the exposed breast is a symbol of liberation. They speak against the proposed notion that their rightful place was below their male counterparts. Throughout the late 20th century, more and more women began to link the struggle for female equality and the repossession of the female body. This can be especially seen in the work of Second Wave Feminists (/wiki/Second-wave_feminism) beginning in the early 1960s. [133] (#cite_note-133) The reaction to exposed breasts as a symbol of liberation was two-sided. Women who took part in the movement expressed their desire to turn attention away from the excessive eroticization of the female body in American popular culture to more essential societal needs. [134] (#cite_note-Yalom,_Marilyn_1997-134) Opposition to the braless movement ironically viewed it as an attack to American morals and public decency (/wiki/Public_decency) . The bralessness movement (/wiki/Controversy_about_bras) evolved into a bare-breasted movement, which became another way for women to "thumb one's nose at society". [134] (#cite_note-Yalom,_Marilyn_1997-134) While some women exposed their breasts individually, there was also an upsurge in topless demonstrations used to gather public attention for women's issues such as pornography and sexism. [134] (#cite_note-Yalom,_Marilyn_1997-134) The sexualization of the breast is found only in a few Western nations, and this, many women argue, causes women to turn to plastic surgery (/wiki/Plastic_surgery) and view their breasts as determinants of beauty rather than potentially nourishing life forces. [135] (#cite_note-135) Because of this, women are able to liberate their breasts as a way to gain attention, make political statements, and combat breast exposure laws' reinforcement of the supposed uncontrollable seductive nature of women's breasts. [ citation needed ] As a form of protest See also: Nudity and protest (/wiki/Nudity_and_protest) and Free the nipple (/wiki/Free_the_nipple) In Western countries, toplessness in public often generates media coverage, leading some female political demonstrators (/wiki/Nudity_and_protest) to deliberately expose their breasts in public to draw media and public attention to their cause. For example, in January 2012, three members of the Ukrainian protest group FEMEN (/wiki/FEMEN) attracted worldwide media attention after they staged a topless protest at the World Economic Forum (/wiki/World_Economic_Forum) in Davos, Switzerland (/wiki/Davos,_Switzerland) . [136] (#cite_note-136) In religion In European pre-historic societies, sculptures of female figures with pronounced or highly exaggerated breasts were common. A typical example is the so-called Venus of Willendorf (/wiki/Venus_of_Willendorf) , one of many Venus figurines (/wiki/Venus_figurines) from the Paleolithic (/wiki/Paleolithic) era with ample hips and bosom. Artifacts such as bowls, rock carvings and sacred statues with breasts have been recorded from 15,000 BC up to late antiquity all across Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. Many female deities representing love and fertility were associated with breasts and breast milk. Figures of the Phoenician goddess Astarte (/wiki/Astarte) were represented as pillars studded with breasts. Isis (/wiki/Isis) , an Egyptian goddess who represented, among many other things, ideal motherhood, was often portrayed as suckling pharaohs (/wiki/Pharaohs) , thereby confirming their divine status as rulers. Even certain male deities representing regeneration and fertility were occasionally depicted with breast-like appendices, such as the river god Hapy (/wiki/Hapy) who was considered to be responsible for the annual overflowing of the Nile (/wiki/Nile) . Female breasts were also prominent in the Minoan civilization (/wiki/Minoan_civilization) in the form of the famous Snake Goddess (/wiki/Snake_Goddess) statuettes. [ citation needed ] In Ancient Greece (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) there were several cults worshiping the "Kourotrophos", the suckling mother, represented by goddesses such as Gaia (/wiki/Gaia_(mythology)) , Hera (/wiki/Hera) and Artemis (/wiki/Artemis) . The worship of deities symbolized by the female breast in Greece became less common during the first millennium. The popular adoration of female goddesses decreased significantly during the rise of the Greek city states, a legacy which was passed on to the later Roman Empire (/wiki/Roman_Empire) . [137] (#cite_note-137) During the middle of the first millennium BC, Greek culture experienced a gradual change in the perception of female breasts. Women in art were covered in clothing from the neck down, including female goddesses like Athena (/wiki/Athena) , the patron of Athens who represented heroic endeavor. There were exceptions: Aphrodite (/wiki/Aphrodite) , the goddess of love, was more frequently portrayed fully nude, though in postures that were intended to portray shyness or modesty, a portrayal that has been compared to modern pin-ups (/wiki/Pin-up) by historian Marilyn Yalom (/wiki/Marilyn_Yalom) . [138] (#cite_note-138) Although nude men were depicted standing upright, most depictions of female nudity in Greek art occurred "usually with drapery near at hand and with a forward-bending, self-protecting posture". [139] (#cite_note-139) A popular legend at the time was of the Amazons (/wiki/Amazons) , a tribe of fierce female warriors who socialized with men only for procreation and even removed one breast to become better warriors. The legend was a popular motif in art during Greek and Roman antiquity and served as an antithetical cautionary tale. In popular culture Josephine Baker (/wiki/Josephine_Baker) topless (1927) The Ladybirds (/wiki/The_Ladybirds) performing in Bergen, Norway (/wiki/Bergen,_Norway) (1968) Neo-Burlesque (/wiki/Neo-Burlesque) dancer with pasties (/wiki/Pasties) (2007) The French have traditionally been relaxed with nudity and toplessness in entertainment, and dancers and actresses performed topless during the 1910s and beyond in musical theater and cinema. Toplessness in entertainment has survived to this day at the Folies Bergère (/wiki/Folies_Berg%C3%A8re) and the Moulin Rouge (/wiki/Moulin_Rouge) . Some female groups have also performed topless, such as the two female groups called The Ladybirds (one in San Francisco (/w/index.php?title=The_Ladybirds_(San_Francisco)&action=edit&redlink=1) [ es (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ladybirds#The_Ladybirds_(Estados_Unidos)) ] and another in Copenhagen (/w/index.php?title=The_Ladybirds_(Copenhagen)&action=edit&redlink=1) [ es (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ladybirds#The_Ladybirds_(Dinamarca)) ] ), which performed topless in the late 1960s. [140] (#cite_note-140) Women are also at times employed in adult-only venues to perform or pose topless in forms of commercial erotic entertainment. Such venues can range from downmarket strip clubs (/wiki/Strip_clubs) and topless bars to upmarket cabarets (/wiki/Cabarets) , such as the Moulin Rouge. Topless entertainment may also include competitions such as wet T-shirt contests (/wiki/Wet_T-shirt_contest) , especially during spring break (/wiki/Spring_break) in the United States, in which women display their breasts through translucent wet fabric—and may end up removing their T-shirts in front of the audience. [ citation needed ] Female toplessness has also become somewhat common during Mardi Gras (/wiki/Mardi_Gras) in New Orleans [141] (#cite_note-141) during which women "flash" (briefly expose) their breasts in return for strings of plastic beads, [142] (#cite_note-142) and at Carnaval (/wiki/Brazilian_Carnival) in Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) , where floats occasionally feature topless women. [143] (#cite_note-143) Pasties (/wiki/Pasties) are sometimes worn by erotic dancers (/wiki/Stripper) or burlesque (/wiki/Burlesque) entertainers to give the impression of toplessness while avoiding prosecution under local public indecency (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) laws which prohibit exposure of the nipple and areolas. To stay within the law, liquid latex pasties may be used. [144] (#cite_note-bikiniscience-144) Pasties may be worn by neo-burlesque (/wiki/Neo-burlesque) performers and are also found in night clubs, fetish parties and parades, such as Pride Parades (/wiki/Pride_Parade) . Swimsuits Rudi Gernreich (/wiki/Rudi_Gernreich) 's original monokini design Topless swimmer in Cascais, Portugal (/wiki/Cascais) Toplessness in a public place is most commonly practised or encountered near water, either as part of a swimming activity or sunbathing (/wiki/Sunbathing) . The introduction of the bikini (/wiki/Bikini) in 1946 and increasingly common glamour shots (/wiki/Glamour_photography) of popular actresses and models on either side of the Atlantic wearing the minimal swimsuit design played a large part in bringing the bikini and sunbathing into the mainstream. [145] (#cite_note-MMOA-145) [146] (#cite_note-ArtCent-146) In 1964, fashion designer Rudi Gernreich (/wiki/Rudi_Gernreich) went further and designed and produced a topless swimsuit, which he called the " monokini (/wiki/Monokini) " in the United States. [147] (#cite_note-147) Gernreich's monokini consisted primarily of a brief, close-fitting bottom that "extended from the midriff to the upper thigh" [148] (#cite_note-everything-148) and was "held up by shoestring laces that make a halter around the neck". [149] (#cite_note-nangle-149) It first appeared in print in Look (/wiki/Look_(American_magazine)) magazine, introducing the concept of a topless swimsuit into commercial fashion. [150] (#cite_note-Shteir-150) [151] (#cite_note-151) [152] (#cite_note-152) He later said he did not really mean for the swimsuit to be popular as it was, but rather as a fantastical concept and prediction of the future. [153] (#cite_note-bay-153) "[Women] drop their bikini tops already", he said, "so it seemed like the natural next step." [153] (#cite_note-bay-153) A photograph of Peggy Moffitt (/wiki/Peggy_Moffitt) , the famous model for the suit, appeared in Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) , Life (/wiki/Life_(magazine)) and numerous other publications. [154] (#cite_note-154) Despite the negative reaction of fashion critics and church officials, shoppers purchased about 3000 of his swimsuit design at $24 each that summer, though the only woman reported as having worn it to a beach in the United States was arrested. [155] (#cite_note-starnews-155) The novelty of the design caught significant attention. Life writer Shana Alexander noted in an article about the introduction of the monokini in July 1964, "One funny thing about toplessness is that it really doesn't have much to do with breasts. Breasts of course are not absurd; topless swimsuits are. Lately people keep getting the two things mixed up." [156] (#cite_note-alexander-156) The topless swimsuit failed to catch on in the United States. [157] (#cite_note-menkes-157) The Soviet government (/wiki/Government_of_the_Soviet_Union) called it "barbarism" and a sign of social "decay". The New York City Police Department (/wiki/New_York_City_Police_Department) was strictly instructed to arrest any woman wearing a swimsuit by the commissioner of parks (/wiki/New_York_City_Department_of_Parks_and_Recreation) . [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) In Chicago, a 19-year-old female beachgoer was fined US$100 for wearing a topless swimsuit on a public beach. [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) Copious coverage of the event helped to send the image of exposed breasts across the world. Women's clubs and the church were particularly active in their condemnation. [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) In Italy and Spain, the Catholic Church warned against the topless fashion. [159] (#cite_note-Thesander-159) In France in 1964, Roger Frey (/wiki/Roger_Frey) led the prosecution of the use of the monokini, describing it as "a public offense against the sense of decency, punishable according to article 330 of the penal code. Consequently, the police chiefs must employ the services of the police so that the women who wear this bathing suit in public places are prosecuted." [160] (#cite_note-SI9Moral-160) [161] (#cite_note-LeMonde-161) At St. Tropez (/wiki/Saint-Tropez) on the French Riviera (/wiki/French_Riviera) , where toplessness later became the norm, the mayor ordered police to ban toplessness and to watch over the beach via helicopter. [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) Jean-Luc Godard (/wiki/Jean-Luc_Godard) , a founding mover of French New Wave (/wiki/French_New_Wave) cinema, incorporated a shot of a woman in a topless swimsuit on the Riviera into his film A Married Woman (/wiki/A_Married_Woman) , but it was edited out by the censors. [162] (#cite_note-162) Media and photography In many Western cultures today, images of topless women are regularly featured in magazines, calendars, and other print media, often covering their breasts in a " handbra (/wiki/Handbra) ", that is, the use of the woman's hands or arms to cover their breasts, especially the nipples and areolas (/wiki/Areola) . In the United Kingdom, following a tradition established by the British newspaper The Sun (/wiki/The_Sun_(United_Kingdom)) in 1970, several mainstream tabloid newspapers featured topless female models on their third page, known as Page 3 (/wiki/Page_3) girls, although this is no longer the case. [163] (#cite_note-163) The subject of glamour photography (/wiki/Glamour_photography) is often a topless woman. [ citation needed ] Photographers such as Jock Sturges (/wiki/Jock_Sturges) and Bill Henson (/wiki/Bill_Henson) have been prosecuted or been embroiled in controversy for producing images of topless teen girls as part of their ongoing work. [164] (#cite_note-164) Cinema See also: Nudity in film (/wiki/Nudity_in_film) In the 1920s, nudity, including toplessness, was featured in some Hollywood silent films (/wiki/Silent_film) as well as on the stage, though not without objections from various groups, and several jurisdictions in the United States and elsewhere set up film censorship boards to censor films. In the 1930s, the Hays Code (/wiki/Motion_Picture_Production_Code) brought an end in Hollywood films to nudity in all its forms. To remain within the censors' guidelines or community standards of decency and modesty, breasts of actresses in an otherwise topless scene would be covered, especially the nipples and areolas, with their hands (using a " handbra (/wiki/Handbra) " stance), arms, towel, pasties, some other object, or the angle of the body in relation to the camera. [ citation needed ] Film making in other centres were not subject to the Hays Code, but were subject to various national censorship regimes. The Italian film Era lui... sì! sì! (/wiki/Era_lui..._s%C3%AC!_s%C3%AC!) (1951), for example, also had a French version which included topless actresses in the harem scene. This version was especially made for the French market, where censorship was less rigorous than in Italy. [165] (#cite_note-165) Social and official attitudes to toplessness and nudity had eased by the 1960s and the Hays Code came under repeated challenge. For example, in Mutiny on the Bounty (/wiki/Mutiny_on_the_Bounty_(1962_film)) (1962) all Tahitian girls were topless and there was a long native dance scene, though the topless female dancers' breasts were covered by leis (/wiki/Lei_(garland)) . The historical epic film Hawaii (/wiki/Hawaii_(1966_film)) (1966) also featured scenes of topless native girls, their breasts being strategically covered by leis. [ citation needed ] In 1968 the Hays Code was replaced by the MPAA film rating system (/wiki/Motion_Picture_Association_of_America_film_rating_system) . Women now appear topless in mainstream cinema, although usually somewhat briefly. Film critic Roger Ebert (/wiki/Roger_Ebert) argued that there was a double standard in relation to the toplessness of "native" women. He wrote that the producers of Rapa-Nui (/wiki/Rapa-Nui_(film)) (1994), which featured repeated scenes of bare-breasted native women, got away with ongoing toplessness because of the women's brown skin: Rapa Nui slips through the National Geographic Loophole. This is the Hollywood convention which teaches us that brown breasts are not as sinful as white ones, and so while it may be evil to gaze upon a blond Playboy centerfold and feel lust in our hearts, it is educational to watch Polynesian maidens frolicking topless in the surf. This isn't sex; it's geography. [166] (#cite_note-166) Besides those actresses who have appeared nude or partially nude in films, it has also become increasingly common for actresses to appear topless in movies. Notable actresses who have appeared topless include Jane Fonda (/wiki/Jane_Fonda) ( Coming Home (/wiki/Coming_Home_(1978_film)) , 1978), Julie Andrews (/wiki/Julie_Andrews) ( S.O.B. (/wiki/S.O.B._(film)) , 1981), Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) ( Titanic (/wiki/Titanic_(1997_film)) , 1997), Gwyneth Paltrow (/wiki/Gwyneth_Paltrow) ( Shakespeare in Love (/wiki/Shakespeare_in_Love) , 1998), Reese Witherspoon (/wiki/Reese_Witherspoon) ( Twilight (/wiki/Twilight_(1998_film)) , 1998), Rene Russo (/wiki/Rene_Russo) ( The Thomas Crown Affair (/wiki/The_Thomas_Crown_Affair_(1999_film)) , 1999), Katie Holmes (/wiki/Katie_Holmes) ( The Gift (/wiki/The_Gift_(2000_film)) , 2000), and Halle Berry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) ( Swordfish (/wiki/Swordfish_(film)) , 2001). In an interview in March 2007, Halle Berry said that her toplessness in Swordfish was "gratuitous" to the movie, but that she needed to do the scene to get over her fear of nudity, and that it was the best thing she did for her career. Having overcome her inhibitions, she went on to a role in Monster's Ball (/wiki/Monster%27s_Ball) , which included a nude scene and which won her an Oscar for Best Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) . [167] (#cite_note-167) Some actresses prefer not to expose their breasts and use a body double (/wiki/Body_double) . [168] (#cite_note-168) Pasties were and may still be worn by some actresses while filming an otherwise apparently topless or nude scene, which is not caught by the camera angle. [169] (#cite_note-169) Topless dancing A topless pole dancer (/wiki/Pole_dance) in a strip club (/wiki/Strip_club) On 12 June 1964, the San Francisco Chronicle (/wiki/San_Francisco_Chronicle) featured a woman wearing a monokini with her exposed breasts on its first page. [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) Two weeks later on 22 June 1964, Carol Doda (/wiki/Carol_Doda) started dancing topless wearing a monokini (designed by Rudi Gernreich (/wiki/Rudi_Gernreich) ) at the Condor Club (/wiki/Condor_Club) in San Francisco (/wiki/San_Francisco) 's North Beach (/wiki/North_Beach,_San_Francisco) district. Her debut as a topless dancer was featured in Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) magazine in April 1965. Doda was the first modern topless dancer in the United States, [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) : 25 renewing the burlesque (/wiki/Burlesque) era of the early 20th century in the U.S. San Francisco Mayor (/wiki/Mayor_of_San_Francisco) John Shelley (/wiki/John_F._Shelley) said, "topless is at the bottom of porn". [170] (#cite_note-shteir-170) Within a few days, women were baring their breasts in many of the clubs lining San Francisco's Broadway St., ushering in the era of the topless bar (/wiki/Strip_club) . [170] (#cite_note-shteir-170) San Francisco public officials tolerated the topless bars until 22 April 1965, when the San Francisco Police Department (/wiki/San_Francisco_Police_Department) arrested Doda on indecency charges. Hundreds of protesters gathered outside the police department, calling for release of both Doda and free speech activist Mario Savio (/wiki/Mario_Savio) , held in the same station. [170] (#cite_note-shteir-170) Doda rapidly became a symbol of sexual freedom, while topless restaurants, shoeshine parlors, ice-cream stands and girl bands proliferated in San Francisco and elsewhere. Journalist Earl Wilson (/wiki/Earl_Wilson_(columnist)) wrote in his syndicated column, "Are we ready for girls in topless gowns? Heck, we may not even notice them." English designers created topless evening gowns inspired by the idea. [158] (#cite_note-Allyn-158) The San Francisco Examiner (/wiki/San_Francisco_Examiner) published a real estate advertisement that promised "bare top swimsuits are possible here". [170] (#cite_note-shteir-170) The arts The artifacts in the Ancient Siam (/wiki/Ancient_Siam) open-air museum near Bangkok (/wiki/Bangkok) depict Thai women topless. The Ramakien Mural representing the epic lives of the Thai people (/wiki/Thai_people) found at the Wat Phra Kaew Temple (/wiki/Wat_Phra_Kaew) depict women wearing only a skirt in public. [ citation needed ] As a result of the Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance) , in many European societies artists were strongly influenced by classical Greek (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) styles and culture. [46] (#cite_note-Nigel_Llewellyn_1660-46) As a result, images of nude and semi-nude subjects in many forms proliferated in art and sculpture. [ citation needed ] During the Victorian era, French Orientalist painters such as Jean-Léon Gérôme (/wiki/Jean-L%C3%A9on_G%C3%A9r%C3%B4me) presented an idealized depiction of female toplessness in Muslim harem baths, [171] (#cite_note-171) while Eugène Delacroix (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Delacroix) , a French romantic (/wiki/Romanticism) artist, invoked images of Liberty as a topless woman. Erotic art of Khajuraho temples (/wiki/Khajuraho_Group_of_Monuments) in India, dated to the 10th century Portrait of Simonetta Vespucci (c. 1480) by Piero di Cosimo (/wiki/Piero_di_Cosimo) Wild Women with Unicorn (c. 1500–1510) Portrait of a Woman by Bartolomeo Veneto (/wiki/Bartolomeo_Veneto) (traditionally assumed to be Lucrezia Borgia (/wiki/Lucrezia_Borgia) ) Liberty Leading the People (/wiki/Liberty_Leading_the_People) (1830) by Eugène Delacroix (/wiki/Eug%C3%A8ne_Delacroix) Blonde Woman with Bare Breasts (/wiki/Blonde_Woman_with_Bare_Breasts) (c. 1878) by Édouard Manet (/wiki/%C3%89douard_Manet) Diana the Huntress by Gaston Casimir Saint-Pierre (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaston_Casimir_Saint-Pierre) Harem Pool by Jean-Léon Gérôme (/wiki/Jean-L%C3%A9on_G%C3%A9r%C3%B4me) Portrait of a Gipsy Maiden (1870) by Carol Szathmari (/wiki/Carol_Szathmari) A " Snake Goddess (/wiki/Snake_Goddess) " statuette of ancient Minoan Civilization (/wiki/Minoan_Civilization) (c. 1600 BC) See also Nudity portal (/wiki/Portal:Nudity) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Bralessness (/wiki/Bralessness) Breast fetishism (/wiki/Breast_fetishism) Décolletage (/wiki/D%C3%A9colletage) FEMEN (/wiki/FEMEN) Free the nipple (/wiki/Free_the_nipple) Gender equality (/wiki/Gender_equality) Naturism (/wiki/Naturism) Nipple piercing (/wiki/Nipple_piercing) Outdoor Co-ed Topless Pulp Fiction Appreciation Society (/wiki/Outdoor_Co-ed_Topless_Pulp_Fiction_Appreciation_Society) Pasties (/wiki/Pasties) Sex-positive feminism (/wiki/Sex-positive_feminism) Women's Equality Day (/wiki/Women%27s_Equality_Day) References ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Topless Swimsuits and Dresses" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221023184238/http://bbc.adactio.com/cult/ilove/years/1964/fashion1.shtml) . 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EL PAÍS (in Spanish). Archived from the original (https://elpais.com/internacional/2017/02/07/argentina/1486498659_776624.html) on 31 January 2023 . Retrieved 15 June 2022 . La movilización llega después de que 20 policías expulsaran a tres bañistas por mostrar sus senos ^ (#cite_ref-125) Brazilian Penal Code (in Portuguese) (http://www.planalto.gov.br/ccivil_03/Decreto-Lei/Del2848.htm) ^ (#cite_ref-126) Chilean Penal Code (in Spanish) (http://www.leychile.cl/Navegar?idNorma=1984) ^ (#cite_ref-127) Marín, Verónica (7 February 2017). "¿Se puede hacer topless en las playas chilenas? Conoce qué dice la norma al respecto" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180717034301/http://www.emol.com/noticias/Nacional/2017/02/07/843633/Se-puede-hacer-topless-en-las-playas-chilenas-Conoce-que-dice-la-norma-al-respecto.html) . emol.Nacional (in Spanish). 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ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-8058-3088-0 . the use of body doubles, even for attractive stars, is common. ^ (#cite_ref-169) Wong, Kathleen (14 February 2015). "8 awkward, not remotely hot tools used to film Hollywood sex scenes" (https://mashable.com/2015/02/14/sex-scenes-accessories/) . Mashable . Retrieved 14 January 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Shteir, Rachel (1964). Striptease: The Untold History of the Girlie Show . East Pakistan Police Co-operative Society. pp. 318–321. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-512750-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-171) "Toplessness defined" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100108023628/http://www.bikiniscience.com/costumes/soutien-gorge_SS/topless_S/topless.html) . Bikini Science. Archived from the original (http://www.bikiniscience.com/costumes/soutien-gorge_SS/topless_S/topless.html) on 8 January 2010 . Retrieved 14 January 2010 . Bibliography Hollander, Anne (1993). Seeing through clothes . Berkeley: University of California Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-520-08231-1 . Yalom, Marilyn (1998). A history of the breast . London: Pandora. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-86358-400-8 . External links Wikimedia Commons has media related to Toplessness (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Toplessness) . 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Shape of the vulva in tight-fitting clothes "Camel Toe" redirects here. For the comedy album by The Bob & Tom Show, see Camel Toe (album) (/wiki/Camel_Toe_(album)) . Labia in tight booty shorts (/wiki/Booty_shorts) A camel's toes Camel toe , or cameltoe , is slang (/wiki/Slang) for the outline of the labia majora (/wiki/Labia_majora) (the outer lips of the vulva (/wiki/Vulva) ) in tightly fitting clothes. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Owing to a combination of anatomical factors and the fabric tension in the crotch area, the outer labia and mons pubis (/wiki/Mons_pubis) may, together, display a shape resembling the forefoot (/wiki/Metatarsus) of a camel (/wiki/Camel) . Camel toe commonly occurs as a result of wearing clothing with crotch-area vertical tension, such as Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) activewear (/wiki/Activewear) or athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) bottom wear, hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) or swimwear (/wiki/Swimwear) . [4] (#cite_note-nyt-4) In the 1930s, following the development of Lastex (/wiki/Lastex) rubberized yarns for swimwear, the resulting exposure of the pubic-area outline resulted in manufacturers adding a "modesty panel" to women's swimsuits to conceal the camel toe; this persisted through the 1950s. [5] (#cite_note-5) In the early 21st century, the display of camel toe in public or in the media has caused controversy on a number of occasions. [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) See also Human sexuality portal (/wiki/Portal:Human_sexuality) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Bralessness (/wiki/Bralessness) Moose knuckle (/wiki/Moose_knuckle_(disambiguation)) Whale tail (/wiki/Whale_tail) References ^ (#cite_ref-1) "camel toe - Definition of camel toe in English by Oxford Dictionaries" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160422112801/http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/camel-toe?q=cameltoe) . Oxford Dictionaries - English . Archived from the original (http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/camel-toe?q=cameltoe) on 22 April 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Mansour, David (2005). From Abba to Zoom: A Pop Culture Encyclopedia of the Late 20th Century . Andrews McMeel. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7407-5118-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Freeman, Hadley (/wiki/Hadley_Freeman) (27 November 2007). "Miaow! Today's pop princesses do love their catsuits" (http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/fashion/story/0,,2217634,00.html) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved 8 December 2007 . ... let's just say the words 'crotch outline' and let that suffice. ^ (#cite_ref-nyt_4-0) Sanneh, Kelefah (23 May 2003). "Fashion Tip in Rap for Brooklyn Girls" (https://www.nytimes.com/2003/05/23/movies/fashion-tip-in-rap-for-brooklyn-girls.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 3 December 2007 . Cameltoe is slang for a fashion faux pas caused by women wearing snug pants; the term suggests a visual analogy. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Ibbotson, Fiona. "A History of Women's Swimwear" (https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/a-history-of-womens-swimwear/) . Fashion history timeline . Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) . Retrieved 12 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Staff (18 November 2013) "K. Michelle Addresses Camel Toe Controversy" (http://stylemagazine.com/news/2013/nov/18/k-michelle-addresses-camel-toe-controversy/) Houston Style Magazine ^ (#cite_ref-7) Jones, Ali (2017) "Camel toes in PlayerUnknown’s Battlegrounds won’t make it to live servers, were an accident" (https://www.pcgamesn.com/playerunknowns-battlegrounds/pubg-camel-toe) PCGamesN ^ (#cite_ref-8) Morrish, Lydia (8 October 2015). "Chick-Chat: We Need To Stop Hating On The Camel Toe" (https://web.archive.org/web/20151009000546/https://www.konbini.com/en/lifestyle/chick-chat-camel-toe/) . Konbini . Archived from the original (https://www.konbini.com/en/lifestyle/chick-chat-camel-toe/) on 9 October 2015. 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Canadian and American actress (born 1974) This article's lead section (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Lead_section#Length) may be too short to adequately summarize (/wiki/Wikipedia:Summary_style) the key points . Please consider expanding the lead to provide an accessible overview (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style/Lead_section#Provide_an_accessible_overview) of all important aspects of the article. ( June 2024 ) Tricia Helfer Helfer in 2007 Born Tricia Janine Helfer ( 1974-04-11 ) April 11, 1974 (age 50) Donalda (/wiki/Donalda) , Alberta, Canada Nationality Canadian American (from 2011) Occupation Actress Years active 2000–present Height 5 ft 10.5 in (179 cm) [1] (#cite_note-fashionmodeldirectory.com-1) Spouse Jonathan Marshall ( m. 2003; div. 2019) Tricia Janine Helfer (born April 11, 1974) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) is a Canadian and American actress. She is known for portraying Number Six (/wiki/Number_Six_(Battlestar_Galactica)) in the science fiction series Battlestar Galactica (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(2004_TV_series)) (2004–2009). She also voiced Sarah Kerrigan (/wiki/Sarah_Kerrigan) in the video game StarCraft II (/wiki/StarCraft_II) and its expansion packs (2010–2015), and portrayed Charlotte Richards/Goddess in the urban fantasy series Lucifer (/wiki/Lucifer_(TV_series)) (2016–2021). Early life [ edit ] Helfer was born in rural Donalda (/wiki/Donalda) , Alberta (/wiki/Alberta) , Canada, to Dennis and Elaine Helfer. [4] (#cite_note-TV-4) She studied at William E. Hay Composite High School in Stettler, Alberta (/wiki/Stettler,_Alberta) . She lived and worked on the family's grain farm with her three sisters: Trena, Tammy, and Tara. Helfer was discovered at age 17 by a modeling agency scout while standing in line at a movie theatre. [4] (#cite_note-TV-4) Career [ edit ] Modelling [ edit ] In 1992, she won Ford Models (/wiki/Ford_Models) ' Supermodel of the World (/wiki/Supermodel_of_the_World_(contest)) contest. Helfer retired from fashion modelling in 2002 and claimed all her shoots since then are related to projects or product endorsements. She has appeared in ad campaigns for Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) , Versace (/wiki/Versace) , Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) , and Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) . [1] (#cite_note-fashionmodeldirectory.com-1) Helfer has walked for top fashion shows, such as Carolina Herrera (/wiki/Carolina_Herrera_(fashion_designer)) , Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) , Claude Montana (/wiki/Claude_Montana) , Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) , John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) , and Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) . [1] (#cite_note-fashionmodeldirectory.com-1) Helfer has appeared on the covers of Flare , Amica , ELLE , Cosmopolitan , Marie Claire , and Vogue , among others. [1] (#cite_note-fashionmodeldirectory.com-1) She also regularly appeared in photo shoots by Maxim (/wiki/Maxim_(magazine)) magazine, was the magazine's wall calendar girl for 2005, and was ranked #57 on the Maxim ' s Hot 100 Women of 2007. [5] (#cite_note-5) Helfer was also featured as the cover model for the February 2007 issue of Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) . [6] (#cite_note-6) Acting [ edit ] Helfer at the 2007 Calgary International Film Festival (/wiki/Calgary_International_Film_Festival) Helfer relocated to Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) in 2002 to pursue a full-time acting career. [7] (#cite_note-OffBio-7) Her first acting assignment was a co-starring role as Sarah on the television series Jeremiah (/wiki/Jeremiah_(TV_series)) . She later played a model named Ashleigh James on the May 16, 2002 episode of CSI: Crime Scene Investigation (/wiki/CSI:_Crime_Scene_Investigation) (" The Hunger Artist (/wiki/The_Hunger_Artist_(CSI_episode)) "). In 2002, she played Eva in the independent film White Rush . [8] (#cite_note-imdb-8) In 2003, she played Number Six (/wiki/Number_Six_(Battlestar_Galactica)) on Battlestar Galactica (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(re-imagining)) . In 2004, she portrayed Farrah Fawcett (/wiki/Farrah_Fawcett) in the telefilm Behind the Camera: The Unauthorized Story of Charlie's Angels (/wiki/Behind_the_Camera:_The_Unauthorized_Story_of_Charlie%27s_Angels) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Concurrent with her role in Battlestar Galactica , Helfer began producing and hosting Canada's Next Top Model (/wiki/Canada%27s_Next_Top_Model) on May 31, 2006. [10] (#cite_note-10) She appeared in Spiral (/wiki/Spiral_(2007_film)) and The Green Chain later the same year. [11] (#cite_note-11) In October 2006, it was announced that Helfer would not return to host the second season of Canada's Next Top Model so she could concentrate on Battlestar Galactica . [12] (#cite_note-citynews-12) Helfer also played a major role in Electronic Arts' video game Command & Conquer 3: Tiberium Wars (/wiki/Command_%26_Conquer_3) , as the high-level Nod general Kilian Qatar (/wiki/Nod_characters_of_Command_and_Conquer#General_Kilian_Qatar) , along with her Battlestar Galactica co-star, actress Grace Park (/wiki/Grace_Park_(actress)) . [13] (#cite_note-yahoo-13) She also starred in the episode "Roadkill" on the second season of Supernatural (/wiki/Supernatural_(U.S._TV_series)) . Helfer had a recurring role on the CBS sitcom Two and a Half Men (/wiki/Two_and_a_Half_Men) . She played Gail, best friend of Charlie's ( Charlie Sheen (/wiki/Charlie_Sheen) ) fiancée Chelsea ( Jennifer Taylor (/wiki/Jennifer_Taylor_(actress)) ). When Chelsea finds out that her friend is recovering from a breakup, she says she should do so at Charlie's house. [14] (#cite_note-14) Shortly after Chelsea and Charlie begin a trial separation, Gail begins a sexual relationship with Charlie. Battlestar Galactica [ edit ] Main article: Number Six (Battlestar Galactica) (/wiki/Number_Six_(Battlestar_Galactica)) In 2003, the television series Battlestar Galactica (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(1978_TV_series)) was used as the basis for a three-hour miniseries (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(TV_miniseries)) on the Sci Fi channel (/wiki/Syfy) . The project was written and produced by Ronald D. Moore (/wiki/Ronald_D._Moore) and directed by Michael Rymer (/wiki/Michael_Rymer) . Helfer played the role of Number Six (/wiki/Number_Six_(Battlestar_Galactica)) , a humanoid Cylon (/wiki/Cylon_(reimagining)) operative. She continued that role as a regular cast member in the TV series (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(2004_TV_series)) , which completed its fourth and final season on March 20, 2009. Due to the special nature of the Number Six character – there are many "copies" of Number Six with distinct personalities – Helfer has, in effect, played numerous roles on the series. In 2009, she reprised her role as Number Six in Battlestar Galactica: The Plan (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica:_The_Plan) – a television movie that tells the story of the series from the Cylons' point of view. In 2012, she voiced a prototype Cylon in the prequel Battlestar Galactica: Blood & Chrome (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica:_Blood_%26_Chrome) . Awards: Leo Awards, Best Lead Performance By A Female in a Dramatic Series, Tricia Helfer ("Pegasus") Nominations: Scream Awards, Breakout Performance, Tricia Helfer as Number Six Scream Awards, Best Television Actress, Tricia Helfer 2008–2015 [ edit ] Helfer in May 2014 In August 2008, Helfer appeared on the stage of NVISION 08 (/wiki/Nvision) , an event sponsored by NVIDIA (/wiki/NVIDIA) , where she discussed her role in Battlestar Galactica as well as the use of computer graphics on the show. [15] (#cite_note-15) Helfer appeared in an episode of the NBC (/wiki/NBC_Universal) series Chuck (/wiki/Chuck_(TV_series)) , [16] (#cite_note-16) and as Michael Westen's nemesis in the USA Network (/wiki/USA_Network) series Burn Notice (/wiki/Burn_Notice) as " Carla Baxter (/wiki/List_of_Burn_Notice_characters#Carla_Baxter) ". She appears as herself in Old 97's (/wiki/Old_97%27s) music video for their song, "Dance with Me". She guest starred in "Resonance", the second episode of Warehouse 13 (/wiki/Warehouse_13) as FBI Agent Bonnie Belski on Syfy (/wiki/Syfy) . She made a guest appearance in the pilot episode of Fox's 2009 mid-season series Human Target (/wiki/Human_Target_(2010_TV_series)) . She has played several prominent video game roles in recent years; including Kilian Quatar (/wiki/Nod_characters_of_Command_and_Conquer#General_Kilian_Qatar) in Command & Conquer 3: Tiberium Wars (/wiki/Command_%26_Conquer_3:_Tiberium_Wars) , Veronica Dare in Halo 3: ODST (/wiki/Halo_3:_ODST) and EDI (/wiki/Characters_of_the_Mass_Effect_universe#EDI) , the artificial intelligence aboard the Normandy SR-2 in Mass Effect 2 (/wiki/Mass_Effect_2) and Mass Effect 3 (/wiki/Mass_Effect_3) . She voices Sarah Kerrigan (/wiki/Sarah_Kerrigan) in StarCraft II: Wings of Liberty (/wiki/StarCraft_II:_Wings_of_Liberty) and the expansion sets Heart of the Swarm (/wiki/Starcraft_II:_Heart_of_the_Swarm) and Legacy of the Void (/wiki/Starcraft_II:_Legacy_of_the_Void) . Helfer voices Black Cat (/wiki/Black_Cat_(Marvel_Comics)) in The Spectacular Spider-Man (/wiki/The_Spectacular_Spider-Man_(TV_series)) and reprised her role in Spider-Man: Web of Shadows (/wiki/Spider-Man:_Web_of_Shadows) . [8] (#cite_note-imdb-8) Helfer joined the cast of Jerry Bruckheimer (/wiki/Jerry_Bruckheimer) 's TNT (/wiki/TNT_(U.S._TV_network)) drama, Dark Blue (/wiki/Dark_Blue_(TV_series)) , [17] (#cite_note-17) as FBI Special Agent Alex Rice. The show was cancelled in November 2010 because of low ratings. [18] (#cite_note-18) In October 2010, she made a guest appearance on Lie to Me (/wiki/Lie_to_Me) . [19] (#cite_note-19) In 2011, she starred in The Black Keys (/wiki/The_Black_Keys) ' music video for " Howlin' for You (/wiki/Howlin%27_for_You) ". [20] (#cite_note-20) She made guest appearances in No Ordinary Family (/wiki/No_Ordinary_Family) (2011), [21] (#cite_note-21) and Franklin & Bash (/wiki/Franklin_%26_Bash) (2011). [22] (#cite_note-22) In 2011, Helfer starred as Morgana, a necromancer, in the TV series pilot 17th Precinct (/wiki/17th_Precinct) from Ron Moore (/wiki/Ronald_D._Moore) with Galactica 's co-stars James Callis (/wiki/James_Callis) and Jamie Bamber (/wiki/Jamie_Bamber) . [23] (#cite_note-23) In October 2011, she got the lead role in the TV pilot Scent of the Missing as Susannah, a K-9 Search and Rescue Volunteer. [24] (#cite_note-24) In November 2011, she appeared in the Hallmark (/wiki/Hallmark_Channel) TV movie Mistletoe Over Manhattan . [25] (#cite_note-daemon-25) For 2012, she signed for the recurring role of Alex Clark in the new NBC (/wiki/NBC) TV Series The Firm (/wiki/The_Firm_(2012_TV_series)#Cast_and_characters) . [25] (#cite_note-daemon-25) On May 16, 2012, she appeared in season seven of the CBS series Criminal Minds (/wiki/Criminal_Minds) , in which she led a team of bank-robbing serial killers. She guest starred in the second season of the Jane Espenson (/wiki/Jane_Espenson) web series, Husbands (/wiki/Husbands_(TV_series)) . [26] (#cite_note-EW-26) In 2014, she played Molly Parker on ABC (/wiki/American_Broadcasting_Company) 's Killer Women (/wiki/Killer_Women) , a remake of the Argentinian drama Mujeres Asesinas (/wiki/Mujeres_Asesinas_(Argentina)) , with producer Sofia Vergara (/wiki/Sofia_Vergara) . [8] (#cite_note-imdb-8) Also in 2014, she played Viondra Denniger, the steward and captain's wife of the titular starship in the miniseries Ascension (/wiki/Ascension_(TV_series)) on its long journey carrying people to populate a new world. Helfer voiced Sonya Blade (/wiki/Sonya_Blade) in the fighting game, Mortal Kombat X (/wiki/Mortal_Kombat_X) , which was released in April 2015. In 2015, she appeared in the series finale of Falling Skies (/wiki/Falling_Skies) as the Espheni Queen, the leader of the alien race that had invaded Earth and devastated humanity. She also played Louise, a woman attending a doll convention, in the web series Con Man (/wiki/Con_Man_(web_series)) . 2016–present [ edit ] In 2016, Helfer was added to the main cast for the second season of the Fox (/wiki/Fox_Broadcasting_Company) series Lucifer (/wiki/Lucifer_(TV_series)) , playing the vessel of the titular character's real mother and “Goddess of all creation”. She served as the primary antagonist of Season 2, and a minor character in Season 5. [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) In 2015–16, she played a recurring role as Evan Smith, a corporate attorney in the USA network series Suits (/wiki/Suits_(American_TV_series)) . In 2019, she was added to the main cast for the fourth season of the SyFy (/wiki/SyFy) series Van Helsing (/wiki/Van_Helsing_(TV_series)) , playing Dracula, the Dark One, who is the ruler of the vampire species. [29] (#cite_note-29) Personal life [ edit ] In 2003, Helfer married Jonathan Marshall, a lawyer whom she met at a mutual friend's birthday party. [30] (#cite_note-UMM-30) [31] (#cite_note-Divorce-31) They separated in May 2017 and Helfer filed for divorce in January 2018, citing irreconcilable differences. [31] (#cite_note-Divorce-31) The divorce was settled in 2019. [32] (#cite_note-32) In 2011, Helfer became an American citizen. [33] (#cite_note-33) She has four artificial discs (/wiki/Intervertebral_disc_arthroplasty) in her back: two in her neck, resulting from an incident in which a piece of luggage was dropped on her head while she was sitting on an airplane, and two in her lower back from mishaps while doing her own stunts. [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) She co-founded the charity web site "Acting Outlaws" with former Battlestar Galactica co-star Katee Sackhoff (/wiki/Katee_Sackhoff) ; the web site collects donations for several causes and charity events. [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) She is also involved in various causes, from animal rescue [41] (#cite_note-41) to the Deepwater Horizon oil spill (/wiki/Deepwater_Horizon_oil_spill) . [42] (#cite_note-42) In 2014, she appeared in a PETA video campaign, encouraging cat owners to keep their cats indoors. [43] (#cite_note-43) Helfer is a vegetarian (/wiki/Vegetarian) . [44] (#cite_note-44) Filmography [ edit ] Film [ edit ] Year Film Role Notes 2000 Eventual Wife Inga Short film 2003 White Rush (/wiki/White_Rush) Eva 2006 The Genius Club (/wiki/The_Genius_Club) Ally Simon Memory (/wiki/Memory_(2006_film)) Stephanie Jacobs 2007 Spiral (/wiki/Spiral_(2007_film)) Sasha The Green Chain Leila Cole Walk All over Me (/wiki/Walk_All_over_Me) Celene 2008 Inseparable Rae Wicks 2009 Green Lantern: First Flight (/wiki/Green_Lantern:_First_Flight) Boodikka (/wiki/Boodikka) (voice) Direct-to-video Open House (/wiki/Open_House_(2010_film)) Lila 2010 A Beginner's Guide to Endings (/wiki/A_Beginner%27s_Guide_to_Endings) Miranda 2011 Bloodwork (/wiki/Bloodwork_(film)) Dr. Wilcox PostHuman Kali (voice) Short film 2012 The Forger Sasha 2014 37 (/wiki/37:_A_Final_Promise) Christina Authors Anonymous (/wiki/Authors_Anonymous) Sigrid Hagenguth Also known as Strudel 2015 Isolation Lydia Masterson 2019 Bombshell (/wiki/Bombshell_(2019_film)) Alisyn Camerota (/wiki/Alisyn_Camerota) 2021 Save Ralph (/wiki/Save_Ralph) Cottonballs the rabbit (voice) Short film 2022 Spin Me Round (/wiki/Spin_Me_Round_(film)) Sofia 2024 Hello Beautiful Willow [45] (#cite_note-45) Television [ edit ] Year Title Role Notes 2002 Jeremiah (/wiki/Jeremiah_(TV_series)) Sarah Episode: "The Long Road: Part 1" CSI: Crime Scene Investigation (/wiki/CSI:_Crime_Scene_Investigation) Ashleigh James Episode: "The Hunger Artist" 2003 Battlestar Galactica (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(miniseries)) Number Six (/wiki/Number_Six_(Battlestar_Galactica)) Miniseries 2004 Behind the Camera: The Unauthorized Story of Charlie's Angels (/wiki/Behind_the_Camera:_The_Unauthorized_Story_of_Charlie%27s_Angels) Farrah Fawcett (/wiki/Farrah_Fawcett) Television film 2004–2009 Battlestar Galactica (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica_(2004_TV_series)) Number Six Main role, 73 episodes 2006 The Collector (/wiki/The_Collector_(Canadian_TV_series)) Janis Eisner Episode: "The V.J." Canada's Next Top Model (/wiki/Canada%27s_Next_Top_Model) Host Cycle 1 2007 Battlestar Galactica: Razor (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica:_Razor) Number Six Television film Them Naomi Tyler Moore Pilot The Green Chain Leila Cole Television film Supernatural (/wiki/Supernatural_(U.S._TV_series)) Molly McNamara Episode: " Roadkill (/wiki/Roadkill_(Supernatural)) " 2007–2009 Burn Notice (/wiki/Burn_Notice) Carla Recurring role, 8 episodes 2008–2009 The Spectacular Spider-Man (/wiki/The_Spectacular_Spider-Man_(TV_series)) Felicia Hardy / Black Cat (/wiki/Black_Cat_(Marvel_Comics)) (voice) 3 episodes 2009 Battlestar Galactica: The Plan (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica:_The_Plan) Number Six Television film Hidden Crimes Julia Carver Television film The Dealership Rachel Carson Unsold television pilot Chuck (/wiki/Chuck_(TV_series)) Alex Forrest Episode: " Chuck Versus the Broken Heart (/wiki/Chuck_Versus_the_Broken_Heart) " Warehouse 13 (/wiki/Warehouse_13) Bonnie Belski Episode: " Resonance (/wiki/Resonance_(Warehouse_13)) " 2009–2011 Two and a Half Men (/wiki/Two_and_a_Half_Men) Gail 3 episodes 2010 The Super Hero Squad Show (/wiki/The_Super_Hero_Squad_Show) Sif (/wiki/Sif_(comics)) (voice) Episode: "O, Brother!" Human Target (/wiki/Human_Target_(2010_TV_series)) Stephanie Dobbs Episode: "Pilot" Dark Blue (/wiki/Dark_Blue_(TV_series)) Alex Rice Main role (season 2), 10 episodes Lie to Me (/wiki/Lie_to_Me) Naomi Russell Episode: "Double Blind" The Whole Truth (/wiki/The_Whole_Truth_(TV_series)) Bitsie Katz Episode: "Liars" 2011 No Ordinary Family (/wiki/No_Ordinary_Family) Sophie Adler Episode: "No Ordinary Love" Scooby-Doo! Mystery Incorporated (/wiki/Scooby-Doo!_Mystery_Incorporated) Amanda Smyth / Aphrodite (voice) Episode: "Where Walks Aphrodite" Franklin & Bash (/wiki/Franklin_%26_Bash) Brett Caiman Episode: "Go Tell It on the Mountain" 17th Precinct (/wiki/17th_Precinct) Morgana Kurlansky Unsold television pilot Mistletoe over Manhattan Lucy Martel Television film 2012 The Firm (/wiki/The_Firm_(2012_TV_series)) Alex Clark Recurring role, 12 episodes Criminal Minds (/wiki/Criminal_Minds) Izzy Rogers 2 episodes Husbands (/wiki/Husbands_(TV_series)) Pillow Girl #2 2 episodes Battlestar Galactica: Blood & Chrome (/wiki/Battlestar_Galactica:_Blood_%26_Chrome) Cylon Prototype Episode: "Pilot" Scent of the Missing Susannah Television film 2012–2013 Tron: Uprising (/wiki/Tron:_Uprising) The Grid (voice) 19 episodes 2013 Community (/wiki/Community_season_4) Lauren Episode: "Conventions of Space and Time" Finding Christmas Ryan Harrison Television film Dangerous Intuition Kate Aldrich Television film 2014 Killer Women (/wiki/Killer_Women) Molly Parker Lead role, 8 episodes The Librarians (/wiki/The_Librarians_(2014_TV_series)) Ms. Willis Episode: "And the Horns of a Dilemma" Ascension (/wiki/Ascension_(miniseries)) Viondra Denninger Miniseries [46] (#cite_note-Ascension-46) Spun Out (/wiki/Spun_Out) Claudia Episode: "Parental Indiscretion" 2015 Suits (/wiki/Suits_(U.S._TV_series)) Evan Smith 3 episodes Key & Peele (/wiki/Key_%26_Peele) Agent Jackson Episode: "The Job Interview" Falling Skies (/wiki/Falling_Skies_(TV_series)) Espheni Queen (voice) Episode: "Reborn" Con Man (/wiki/Con_Man_(web_series)) Louise 4 episodes Rick and Morty (/wiki/Rick_and_Morty) Donna Gueterman (voice) Episode: " The Wedding Squanchers (/wiki/The_Wedding_Squanchers) " 2016 Powers (/wiki/Powers_(American_TV_series)) FBI Special Agent Angela Lange / Lynx Recurring role (season 2) Operation Christmas Olivia Young Roberts Television film Robot Chicken (/wiki/Robot_Chicken) Kris Monroe / Ms. Delacroix / Colette (voices) Episode: "Food" 2016–2018, 2020–2021 Lucifer (/wiki/Lucifer_(TV_series)) Charlotte Richards / Mom (/wiki/Goddess) / Shirley Monroe Main role (2–3); Guest (5–6) [47] (#cite_note-47) 2017 Sun, Sand and Romance Kate Television film 2019 S.W.A.T. (/wiki/S.W.A.T._(2017_TV_series)) Elle Trask Episode: "The B-Team" Creepshow (/wiki/Creepshow_(TV_series)) Lydia Layne Segment "Lydia Layne’s Better Half" 2019–2021 Van Helsing (/wiki/Van_Helsing_(TV_series)) Dracula (/wiki/Count_Dracula) / Olivia Main role (season 4 & 5) [48] (#cite_note-48) 2019 It's Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas Sarah Reed Hallmark Television Film 2021 Big Shot (/wiki/Big_Shot_(TV_series)) Mrs. Grazinsky Episode: "This Is Our House" The Rookie (/wiki/The_Rookie_(TV_series)) Claire Ivey Episode: "Five Minutes" 2022 Step Up: High Water (/wiki/Step_Up:_High_Water) Erin Recurring role (season 3) Video games [ edit ] Year Title Role Notes 2007 Command & Conquer 3: Tiberium Wars (/wiki/Command_%26_Conquer_3:_Tiberium_Wars) Kilian Qatar Command & Conquer 3: Kane's Wrath (/wiki/Command_%26_Conquer_3:_Kane%27s_Wrath) 2008 Spider-Man: Web of Shadows (/wiki/Spider-Man:_Web_of_Shadows) Felicia Hardy / Black Cat (/wiki/Black_Cat_(Marvel_Comics)) [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) 2009 Halo 3: ODST (/wiki/Halo_3:_ODST) Captain Veronica Dare [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) 2010 Mass Effect 2 (/wiki/Mass_Effect_2) EDI [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) StarCraft II: Wings of Liberty (/wiki/StarCraft_II:_Wings_of_Liberty) Sarah Kerrigan (/wiki/Sarah_Kerrigan) [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) 2012–2013 Mass Effect 3 (/wiki/Mass_Effect_3) EDI [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) 2013 StarCraft II: Heart of the Swarm (/wiki/StarCraft_II:_Heart_of_the_Swarm) Sarah Kerrigan [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) 2015 Mortal Kombat X (/wiki/Mortal_Kombat_X) Sonya Blade (/wiki/Sonya_Blade) [50] (#cite_note-50) StarCraft II: Legacy of the Void (/wiki/StarCraft_II:_Legacy_of_the_Void) Sarah Kerrigan [49] (#cite_note-btva-49) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Tricia Helfer profile" (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Tricia_Helfer) . Fashion Model Directory.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110105121037/http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Tricia_Helfer/) from the original on January 5, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Tricia Helfer [@trutriciahelfer] (April 11, 2014). "Thanks for all the bday wishes. Feeling lots of love today" (https://x.com/trutriciahelfer/status/454678261608366080) ( Tweet (/wiki/Tweet_(social_media)) ). Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140508025650/https://twitter.com/trutriciahelfer/status/454678261608366080) from the original on May 8, 2014 . Retrieved May 7, 2014 – via Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Famous Female Actors Gr. 4-8 . On The Mark Press. p. 9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-77072-777-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Tricia Helfer Profile" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110210140525/http://www.tvguide.com/celebrities/tricia-helfer/bio/193946) . TV Guide.com . Archived from the original (https://www.tvguide.com/celebrities/tricia-helfer/bio/193946) on February 10, 2011 . Retrieved April 10, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Maxim's Hot 100 Women of 2007" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140520155424/http://www.maxim.com/hot-100/2007-hot-100) . Maxim.com . Archived from the original (http://www.maxim.com/hot-100/2007-hot-100) on May 20, 2014 . Retrieved April 10, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Robertson, Josh (February 23, 2013). "The 50 Hottest Celebrities Who've Posed For Playboy: 42. Tricia Helfer" (http://www.complex.com/pop-culture/2013/02/the-50-hottest-celebrities-whove-posed-for-playboy/tricia-helfer) . Complex.com (/wiki/Complex.com) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130226142722/http://www.complex.com/pop-culture/2013/02/the-50-hottest-celebrities-whove-posed-for-playboy/tricia-helfer) from the original on February 26, 2013 . Retrieved November 15, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-OffBio_7-0) "Bio" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110808135930/http://triciahelfer.com/bio) . TriciaHelfer.com . August 8, 2011. Archived from the original (http://triciahelfer.com/bio) on August 8, 2011. ^ Jump up to: a b c Tricia Helfer (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1065454/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) ^ (#cite_ref-9) "The Unauthorized Story of 'Charlie's Angels' (https://web.archive.org/web/20110521070802/http://www.flixster.com/movie/behind-the-camera-charlies-angels) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110521070802/http://www.flixster.com/movie/behind-the-camera-charlies-angels) . Flixster.com . June 14, 2005. Archived from the original (http://www.flixster.com/movie/behind-the-camera-charlies-angels) on May 21, 2011 . Retrieved November 23, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Tricia Helfer – Canada's Top Model" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110928224900/http://www.bigbtv.com/Television/Shows/c/CanadianTopModel/TriciaHelfer.php) . BigBTV.com . Archived from the original (http://www.bigbtv.com/Television/Shows/c/CanadianTopModel/TriciaHelfer.php) on September 28, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "The Green Chain (2007)" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0489488/fullcredits#cast) . IMDb (/wiki/IMDb) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140906025554/http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0489488/fullcredits#cast) from the original on September 6, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-citynews_12-0) "Toronto's Jay Manuel To Host Second Season of Canada's Next Top Model" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070106223713/http://www.citynews.ca/news/news_4886.aspx) . CityNews.ca . Archived from the original (http://www.citynews.ca/news/news_4886.aspx) on January 6, 2007 . Retrieved January 3, 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-yahoo_13-0) "EA Reveals Command & Conquer 3 Tiberium Wars: Kane Edition" (http://biz.yahoo.com/bw/061222/20061222005083.html) . Yahoo! Business News. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070323035404/http://biz.yahoo.com/bw/061222/20061222005083.html?.v=1) from the original on March 23, 2007 . Retrieved January 3, 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Abrams, Natalie (October 15, 2009). "Tricia Helfer to Guest Star on Two and a Half Men" (https://www.tvguide.com/News/Tricia-Helfer-Guest-1010923.aspx) . TV Guide (/wiki/TV_Guide) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20091019074108/http://www.tvguide.com/News/Tricia-Helfer-Guest-1010923.aspx) from the original on October 19, 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-15) "NVISION 08" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080802003624/http://triciahelfer.com/new/?p=322) . Tricia Helfer official site . Archived from the original (http://triciahelfer.com/new/?p=322) on August 2, 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Mitovich, Matt (November 24, 2008). "Battlestar's Tricia Helfer to Handle Chuck" (https://www.tvguide.com/news/battlestars-tricia-helfer-1000140/) . TV Guide (/wiki/TV_Guide) . Retrieved September 16, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Dark Blue Review" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100801073208/http://triciahelfer.com/news/dark-blue-review) . Tricia Helfer.com . Archived from the original (http://triciahelfer.com/news/dark-blue-review) on August 1, 2010 . Retrieved November 23, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Sullivan, Brian Ford (November 16, 2010). "Exclusive: TNT Cancels 'Dark Blue' (http://www.thefutoncritic.com/news/2010/11/16/exclusive-tnt-cancels-dark-blue-769110/8982) " (http://www.thefutoncritic.com/news/2010/11/16/exclusive-tnt-cancels-dark-blue-769110/8982) . The Futon Critic.com . Retrieved April 10, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Exclusive: Tricia Helfer to Crush on Lie to Me's Lightman" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110127211253/http://www.tvguide.com/News/Tricia-Helfer-Lie-1022584.aspx) . TV Guide.com . Archived from the original (https://www.tvguide.com/News/Tricia-Helfer-Lie-1022584.aspx) on January 27, 2011 . Retrieved April 10, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "The Black Keys' "Howlin' For You" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110214075948/http://www.ifc.com/news/2011/02/the-black-keys-howlin-for-you.php) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110214075948/http://www.ifc.com/news/2011/02/the-black-keys-howlin-for-you.php) . IFC News . February 10, 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.ifc.com/news/2011/02/the-black-keys-howlin-for-you.php) on February 14, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Michael Chiklis Faces No Ordinary Cylon Invasion" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110306170543/http://www.ugo.com/tv/lucy-lawless-tricia-helfer-no-ordinary-family) . Ugo.com . March 1, 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.ugo.com/tv/lucy-lawless-tricia-helfer-no-ordinary-family) on March 6, 2011 . Retrieved April 10, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Go Tell it on the Mountain" (http://www.clicker.com/tv/franklin-and-bash/go-tell-it-on-the-mountain-2004404) . Clicker.com . August 3, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Tricia Helfer 17th Precinct Pilot" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121002172524/http://www.aoltv.com/2011/03/04/tricia-helfer-17th-precinct-pilot/) . AOL TV.com . March 4, 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.aoltv.com/2011/03/04/tricia-helfer-17th-precinct-pilot) on October 2, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-24) Goldberg, Lesley (October 12, 2011). "Battlestar Galactica's' Tricia Helfer Nabs Lead in TNT Pilot" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111013104256/http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/live-feed/battlestar-galacticas-tricia-helfer-nabs-247501) . The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . Archived from the original (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/live-feed/battlestar-galacticas-tricia-helfer-nabs-247501) on October 13, 2011 . Retrieved April 10, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Battlestar Galactica Babe Tricia Helfer to Appear in 'The Firm' (https://web.archive.org/web/20110918100124/http://www.daemonstv.com/2011/08/19/battlestar-galactica-babe-tricia-helfer-to-appear-in-the-firm/) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20110918100124/http://www.daemonstv.com/2011/08/19/battlestar-galactica-babe-tricia-helfer-to-appear-in-the-firm/) . Daemons TV . August 19, 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.daemonstv.com/2011/08/19/battlestar-galactica-babe-tricia-helfer-to-appear-in-the-firm/) on September 18, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-EW_26-0) Vary, Adam B. (June 28, 2012). " (http://insidetv.ew.com/2012/06/28/husbands-season-2-first-look/2) 'Husbands': EP and star on season 2 of their gay-marriage web series" (http://insidetv.ew.com/2012/06/28/husbands-season-2-first-look/2) . Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120701210607/http://insidetv.ew.com/2012/06/28/husbands-season-2-first-look/2/) from the original on July 1, 2012 . Retrieved June 28, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Ausiello, Michael (June 21, 2016). "Tricia Helfer Joins Lucifer Season 2 as Literally the Mother From Hell" (http://tvline.com/2016/06/21/tricia-helfer-lucifer-season-2-mother-charlotte-devil/) . TV Line . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160808201052/http://tvline.com/2016/06/21/tricia-helfer-lucifer-season-2-mother-charlotte-devil/) from the original on August 8, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Tricia Helfer Joins Cast of 'Lucifer' (https://www.aol.com/video/view/tricia-helfer-joins-cast-of-lucifer/5769db47e4b0a1d8c0dbff3d/) " (https://www.aol.com/video/view/tricia-helfer-joins-cast-of-lucifer/5769db47e4b0a1d8c0dbff3d/) . Aol.video . aol.com . Retrieved May 14, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Tricia Helfer Talks Playing Dracula on Van Helsing" (https://www.denofgeek.com/us/tv/van-helsing/282575/tricia-helfer-playing-dracula-van-helsing-creepshow/) . Den Of Geek . August 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-UMM_30-0) Leech, Eric J. (Spring 2008). "Tricia Helfer profile" (http://www.umm.ca/umm_administration/objects/metadata/844587001213287189.pdf) (PDF) . Urban Male Magazine (/wiki/Urban_Male_Magazine) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20081004000711/http://www.umm.ca/umm_administration/objects/metadata/844587001213287189.pdf) (PDF) from the original on October 4, 2008 . Retrieved September 7, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mizoguchi, Karen (January 26, 2018). "Tricia Helfer, Star of Lucifer & Battlestar Galactica, Files for Divorce from Husband of 13 Years" (http://people.com/tv/tricia-helfer-files-for-divorce-from-husband/) . People.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180331003738/http://people.com/tv/tricia-helfer-files-for-divorce-from-husband/) from the original on March 31, 2018 . Retrieved May 7, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) " (https://theblast.com/c/battlestar-galactica-tricia-helfer-settles-divorce) 'Battlestar Galactica' Star Tricia Helfer Settles Divorce, No Spousal Support for Either Side" (https://theblast.com/c/battlestar-galactica-tricia-helfer-settles-divorce) . theblast.com . May 1, 2019 . Retrieved August 12, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) @trutriciahelfer (January 21, 2011). "I became an American citizen yesterday. Very happy and proud to be an American!! And fellow Canadian's, I'm dual, so no hate. I'm both" (https://x.com/trutriciahelfer/status/28313200579584000) ( Tweet (/wiki/Tweet_(social_media)) ) – via Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Tricia Helfer on Lopez Tonight" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSLB38awFVI) . YouTube. August 4, 2010. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170407211754/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSLB38awFVI) from the original on April 7, 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-35) Helfer, Tricia [@trutriciahelfer] (August 27, 2012). "Right before my back surgery - was in so much pain there '@werdyo:Tricia Helfer @ Spike VGA's 2009 @trutriciahelfer... http://tinyurl.com/7bnt5d6' (https://x.com/trutriciahelfer/status/240164948976746496) " (https://x.com/trutriciahelfer/status/240164948976746496) ( Tweet (/wiki/Tweet_(social_media)) ) – via Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Harley, Bryant. "Number 6 to Ascension: Tricia Helfer Talks" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190514154453/http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/2014/10/article/number-6-to-ascension-tricia-helfer-talks/) . MotoUsa.Com . Archived from the original (http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/2014/10/article/number-6-to-ascension-tricia-helfer-talks/) on May 14, 2019 . Retrieved May 14, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Dittman, Earl. "Tricia Helfer returns to Earth to go underground in 'Dark Blue' (http://www.digitaljournal.com/article/295307) " (http://www.digitaljournal.com/article/295307) . Digital Journal . Retrieved May 14, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Tricia Helfer - And here's the picture of my neck right after surgery" (https://www.facebook.com/123270757685307/photos/a.125872274091822/129267820418934/) . Facebook . Retrieved January 29, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Who We Are" (http://actingoutlaws.org/site/?page_id=6) . The Acting Outlaws . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20101014044119/http://actingoutlaws.org/site/?page_id=6) from the original on October 14, 2010 . Retrieved November 23, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Our Mission" (http://actingoutlaws.org/site/?page_id=2) . The Acting Outlaws . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100914182129/http://actingoutlaws.org/site/?page_id=2) from the original on September 14, 2010 . Retrieved November 23, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Fur Ball at the Skirball" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110323225510/http://www.kittenrescue.org/pages.php?pageid=109) . KittenRescue.org . Archived from the original (http://www.kittenrescue.org/pages.php?pageid=109) on March 23, 2011 . Retrieved March 1, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Do Something!" (http://www.actingoutlaws.org) . Acting OutLaws.org . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110209135221/http://www.actingoutlaws.org/) from the original on February 9, 2011 . Retrieved March 1, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Shehori, Steven (April 10, 2014). "Tricia Helfer and PETA Urge Pet Owners to Keep Their Cats Indoors" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140416224932/http://www.etcanada.com/blogs/etc_92633/tricia-helfer-and-peta-urge-pet-owners-to-keep-their-cats-indoors/celebs/) . ET Canada . Archived from the original (http://www.etcanada.com/blogs/etc_92633/tricia-helfer-and-peta-urge-pet-owners-to-keep-their-cats-indoors/celebs/) on April 16, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-44) "...we were eating vegan chili dogs while we were filming that scene. The prop department made them for me because I'm vegetarian." (https://mobile.twitter.com/trutriciahelfer/status/1501202214039261184) ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Hamzeh Mystique Films Announces the Filming Commencement of HELLO BEAUTIFUL" (https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/hamzeh-mystique-films-announces-the-filming-commencement-of-hello-beautiful-302027560.html) . PR Newswire (/wiki/PR_Newswire) . January 5, 2024 . Retrieved April 21, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-Ascension_46-0) Bibel, Sara (April 30, 2014). "Tricia Helfer to Star in New Syfy Event Series 'Ascension' (https://web.archive.org/web/20140502005048/http://tvbythenumbers.zap2it.com/2014/04/30/tricia-helfer-to-star-in-new-syfy-event-series-ascension/259170/) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20140502005048/http://tvbythenumbers.zap2it.com/2014/04/30/tricia-helfer-to-star-in-new-syfy-event-series-ascension/259170/) . TV by the Numbers (Press release). Archived from the original (http://tvbythenumbers.zap2it.com/2014/04/30/tricia-helfer-to-star-in-new-syfy-event-series-ascension/259170/) on May 2, 2014 . Retrieved April 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Ausiello, Michael (July 20, 2016). "Lucifer Ups Tricia Helfer to Regular as the Mother From Hell — First Photo" (http://tvline.com/2016/07/20/lucifer-season-3-tricia-helfer-mother-photo/) . TV Line.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160808015929/http://tvline.com/2016/07/20/lucifer-season-3-tricia-helfer-mother-photo/) from the original on August 8, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-48) Boucher, Geoff (May 14, 2019). " (https://deadline.com/2019/05/van-helsing-tricia-helfer-stakes-claim-to-dracula-role-wwe-wrestling-star-also-added-to-cast-1202614231/) 'Van Helsing': Tricia Helfer Stakes Claim To Dracula Role & WWE Wrestling Star Also Added To Cast" (https://deadline.com/2019/05/van-helsing-tricia-helfer-stakes-claim-to-dracula-role-wwe-wrestling-star-also-added-to-cast-1202614231/) . Deadline Hollywood . Retrieved May 14, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g "Tricia Helfer (visual voices guide) - Behind The Voice Actors" (https://www.behindthevoiceactors.com/Tricia-Helfer/) . behindthevoiceactors.com (Check mark indicates role has been confirmed using screenshots of closing credits and other reliable sources) . Retrieved March 28, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Helfer, Tricia [@trutriciahelfer] (January 15, 2018). "No, I voiced Sonya Blade in it" (https://x.com/trutriciahelfer/status/953067869612359680) ( Tweet (/wiki/Tweet_(social_media)) ) . Retrieved February 17, 2019 – via Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) . 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Victorian era design movement favouring practical women's clothing 1895 Punch cartoon. Gertrude: "My dear Jessie, what on earth is that Bicycle Suit for?" Jessie: "Why, to wear, of course." Gertrude: "But you haven't got a Bicycle!" Jessie: "No; but I've got a Sewing Machine!" Victorian dress reform was an objective of the Victorian dress reform movement (also known as the rational dress movement ) of the middle and late Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) , led by various reformers who proposed, designed, and wore clothing considered more practical and comfortable than the fashions (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) of the time. Dress reformists were largely middle-class women involved in the first wave of feminism (/wiki/History_of_feminism#First_wave) in the Western World, from the 1850s through the 1890s. The movement emerged in the Progressive Era (/wiki/Progressive_Era) along with calls for temperance (/wiki/Temperance_movement) , women's education, suffrage (/wiki/Suffrage) and moral purity. Dress reform called for emancipation from the "dictates of fashion", expressed a desire to "cover the limbs as well as the torso adequately," and promoted "rational dress". [1] (#cite_note-1) The movement had its greatest success in the reform of women's undergarments (/wiki/Undergarment) , which could be modified without exposing the wearer to social ridicule. Dress reformers were also influential in persuading women to adopt simplified garments for athletic activities such as bicycling or swimming. The movement was much less concerned with men's clothing, although it initiated the widespread adoption of knitted wool union suits (/wiki/Union_suit) or long johns (/wiki/Long_underwear) . Some of the movement's proponents established dress reform parlors , or storefronts, where women could buy sewing patterns for the garments, or buy them directly. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Criticisms of tightlacing [ edit ] Fashion in the 1850s through the 1880s accented large crinolines (/wiki/Crinoline) , cumbersome bustles (/wiki/Bustle) , and padded busts with tiny waists laced into 'steam-moulded corsetry'. [4] (#cite_note-auto1-4) ' Tight-lacing (/wiki/Tight-lacing) ' became part of the corset controversy (/wiki/Corset_controversy) : dress reformists claimed that the corset was prompted by vanity and foolishness, and harmful to health. The reported health risks included damaged and rearranged internal organs, compromised fertility; weakness and general depletion of health. Those who were pro-corset argued that it was required for stylish dress and had its own unique pleasures; dress historian David Kunzle theorized that some enthusiastic fans of tightlacing may have experienced sexual pleasure when tightlacing, or by rubbing (/wiki/Frotteurism) against the front of the corset, which contributed to the moral outrage against the practice. [5] (#cite_note-5) Doctors such as Alice Bunker Stockham (/wiki/Alice_Bunker_Stockham) counseled patients against them, particularly during maternity; reformist and activist Catharine Beecher (/wiki/Catharine_Beecher) was one of the few to defy propriety norms and discuss the gynecological issues resulting from lifelong corset usage, in particular uterine prolapse (/wiki/Uterine_prolapse) . [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) Feminist historian Leigh Summers theorized that some moral panic derived from the common but unspeakable idea that tightlacing could be used to induce an abortion (/wiki/Abortion) . [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) American women active in the anti-slavery (/wiki/Abolitionism_in_the_United_States) and temperance movements (/wiki/Temperance_movement) , having experience in public speaking and political agitation, demanded sensible clothing that would not restrict their movement. [9] (#cite_note-9) While supporters of fashionable dress contended that corsets maintained an upright, 'good figure', as a necessary physical structure for moral and well-ordered society, these dress reformists contested that women's fashions were not only physically detrimental, but "the results of male conspiracy to make women subservient by cultivating them in slave psychology." [4] (#cite_note-auto1-4) [10] (#cite_note-10) They believed a change in fashions could change the whole position of women, allowing for greater social mobility, independence from men and marriage, the ability to work for wages, as well as physical movement and comfort. [11] (#cite_note-11) "Emancipation waists" and undergarment reform [ edit ] An attempt at dress reform in 1891, but keeping a fashionable silhouette Inès Gaches-Sarraute (/w/index.php?title=In%C3%A8s_Gaches-Sarraute&action=edit&redlink=1) [ fr (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/In%C3%A8s_Gaches-Sarraute) ] in a straight-front corset from about 1892, which became fashionable in the Edwardian period 'The Emancipation Waist.' Excerpt from 'Catalog of Dress Reform and Other Sanitary Under-Garments For Ladies and Children' George Frost and Co., Boston Mass June 1, 1876. A 1900 diagram from Ladies' Home Journal (/wiki/Ladies%27_Home_Journal) illustrating the difference between the Victorian and Edwardian corsets Dress reformers promoted the emancipation waist, or liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) , as a replacement for the corset. The emancipation bodice was a tight sleeveless vest, buttoning up the front, with rows of buttons along the bottom to which could be attached petticoats (/wiki/Petticoat) and a skirt. The entire torso would support the weight of the petticoats and skirt, not just the waist (since the undesirability of hanging the entire weight of full skirts and petticoats from a constricted waist—rather than hanging the garments from the shoulders—was another point often discussed by dress reformers). [12] (#cite_note-12) The bodices had to be fitted by a dressmaker (/wiki/Dressmaker) ; patterns could be ordered through the mail. Physician Alice Bunker Stockham (/wiki/Alice_Bunker_Stockham) railed against the corset (/wiki/Corset) and said of the pregnancy corset, "The Best pregnancy corset is no corset at all." [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) The "emancipation union under flannel" was first sold in America in 1868. It combined a waist (shirt) and drawers (leggings) in the form we now know as the union suit (/wiki/Union_suit) . While first designed for women, the union suit was also adopted by men, and is still sold and worn today, by both men and women, as winter underclothing. In 1878, a German professor named Gustav Jaeger (/wiki/Gustav_J%C3%A4ger_(naturalist)) published a book claiming that only clothing made of animal hair, such as wool, promoted health. A British accountant named Lewis Tomalin translated the book, then opened a shop selling Dr Jaeger's Sanitary Woollen System, including knitted wool union suits. These were soon called "Jaegers"; they were widely popular. It is not clear how many women, in either the Americas (/wiki/The_Americas) or on the Continent (/wiki/Europe) , wore these so-called "reform" bodices. However, contemporary portrait photography (/wiki/Portrait_photography) , fashion (/wiki/Fashion) literature (/wiki/Magazine) , and surviving examples of the undergarments themselves, all suggest that the corset was almost universal as daily wear by women and young ladies (and numerous fashionable men (/wiki/Dandy) ) until the 1920s, when girdles (/wiki/Girdle_(undergarment)) began to take over. [13] (#cite_note-:2-13) The hygienic corset [ edit ] The primary result of the dress reform movement seems to be the evolution, rather than elimination, of the corset. Because of the public health outcry surrounding corsets and tightlacing, many doctors took it upon themselves to become corsetieres (/wiki/Corsetiere) . Many doctors helped to fit their patients with corsets to avoid the dangers of ill-fitting corsets, and some doctors even designed corsets themselves. Roxey Ann Caplin (/wiki/Roxey_Ann_Caplin) became a widely renowned corset maker, enlisting the help of her husband, a physician, to create corsets which she purported to be more respectful of human anatomy. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) Inès Gaches-Sarraute (/w/index.php?title=In%C3%A8s_Gaches-Sarraute&action=edit&redlink=1) [ fr (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/In%C3%A8s_Gaches-Sarraute) ] designed the straight-front corset in response to her patients' gynecological issues which were attributed to wearing corsets. The design was intended to reduce pressure on the abdomen and improve overall health. The new S-curve silhouette created by this design quickly caught on among fashion houses in the early 20th century. [13] (#cite_note-:2-13) Bloomer suit [ edit ] Main article: Bloomers (/wiki/Bloomers) Bloomer Suit The most famous product of the dress reform era is the bloomer (/wiki/Bloomers_(clothing)) suit. In 1851, a New England temperance activist (/wiki/Temperance_movement) named Elizabeth Smith Miller (/wiki/Elizabeth_Smith_Miller) (Libby Miller) adopted what she considered a more rational costume: loose trousers gathered at the ankles, like the trousers worn by Middle Eastern and Central Asian women, topped by a short dress or skirt and vest (waistcoat). She displayed her new clothing to temperance activist and suffragist (/wiki/Suffragist) Elizabeth Cady Stanton (/wiki/Elizabeth_Cady_Stanton) , who found it sensible and becoming, and adopted it immediately. In this garb, she visited yet another activist, Amelia Bloomer (/wiki/Amelia_Bloomer) , the editor of the temperance magazine The Lily (/wiki/The_Lily_(newspaper)) . Bloomer not only wore the costume, she promoted it enthusiastically in her magazine. More women wore the fashion and were promptly dubbed "Bloomers". A dress reform was supported by a campaign of the National Dress Reform Association (/wiki/National_Dress_Reform_Association) , which was founded in 1856. [14] (#cite_note-14) They put up a fight for a few years, but were subjected to ridicule in the press [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) and harassment on the street. [17] (#cite_note-17) The more conservative of society protested that women had 'lost the mystery and attractiveness as they discarded their flowing robes." [18] (#cite_note-18) Amelia Bloomer herself dropped the fashion in 1859, saying that a new invention, the crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) , was a sufficient reform and that she could return to conventional dress. The bloomer costume died—temporarily. It was to return much later (in a different form), as a women's athletic costume in the 1890s and early 1900s. Aesthetic Dress movement [ edit ] Main article: Artistic Dress movement (/wiki/Artistic_Dress_movement) In the 1870s, a largely English movement led by Mary Eliza Haweis (/wiki/Mary_Eliza_Haweis) sought dress reform to enhance and celebrate the natural shape of the body, preferring the looser lines of the medieval (/wiki/Medieval) and renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance) eras. A historic nostalgia for more forgiving fashions, the aesthetic dress movement critiqued fashionable dress for its immovable shapes, and sought the 'fashioning and adorning of a robe' as tastefully complementary to the natural body. [19] (#cite_note-19) The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood (/wiki/Pre-Raphaelite_Brotherhood) and other artistic reformers objected to the elaborately trimmed (/wiki/Trim_(sewing)) confections of Victorian fashion with their unnatural silhouette based on a rigid corset (/wiki/Corset) and hoops as both ugly and dishonest. Some women associated with the movement adopted a revival style based on romanticised medieval (/wiki/Medieval) influences such as puffed juliette sleeves (/wiki/Sleeve) and trailing skirts. These styles were made in the soft colors of vegetable dyes (/wiki/Dye) , ornamented with hand embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) in the art needlework (/wiki/Art_needlework) style, featured silks, oriental (/wiki/Oriental) designs, muted colors, natural and frizzed hair, and lacked definitive waist emphasis. [20] (#cite_note-20) The style spread as an "anti-fashion" called Artistic dress (/wiki/Artistic_Dress_movement) in the 1860s in literary and artistic circles, died back in the 1870s (/wiki/1870s_in_fashion) , and reemerged as Aesthetic dress in the 1880s (/wiki/1880s_in_fashion) , where two of the main proponents were the writer Oscar Wilde and his wife Constance, both of whom gave lectures on the subject. In 1881 The Rational Dress Society was founded in London. The Society advocated divided skirts as a more practical form of clothing, but its president and co-founder, Lady Florence Harberton, went further - when cycling, she wore full 'Rational' dress, which was a shorter skirt worn over voluminous trousers. The rational dress movement by country [ edit ] The dress reform movement spread from the United States and Great Britain to the Nordic countries in the 1880s and from Germany to Austria and the Netherlands. The issue was internationally addressed at the International Congress for Women's Work and Women's Endeavors (/w/index.php?title=International_Congress_for_Women%27s_Work_and_Women%27s_Endeavors&action=edit&redlink=1) in Berlin 1896, in which Germany, America, Belgium, Denmark, England, Finland, Russia, Sweden, Switzerland, and Hungary participated. [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) Denmark [ edit ] In Denmark, the bloomer costume (/wiki/Bloomers) was adopted for girls' sports wear during ice skating already in the 1860s. While there were no separate dress reform societies founded in Denmark, the women's rights society Dansk Kvindesamfund (/wiki/Dansk_Kvindesamfund) actively addressed the issue under the influence of the Swedish Dress Reform Society (/wiki/Svenska_dr%C3%A4gtreformf%C3%B6reningen) in the 1880s; they published their own brochure (/wiki/Brochure) , Om Sundheden og Kyindedraegten by J. Frisch, collaborated with Stockholm and Oslo with the design of reform costumes and the exposition of them, notably during the Nordic Exhibition of 1888 (/wiki/Nordic_Exhibition_of_1888) . [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) Finland [ edit ] While there were no separate dress reform societies founded in Finland, the women's rights society Suomen Naisyhdistys (/wiki/Suomen_Naisyhdistys) actively addressed the issue under the influence of the Swedish Dress Reform Society (/wiki/Svenska_dr%C3%A4gtreformf%C3%B6reningen) in the 1880s; they held lectures in many Finnish cities, managed to have the reform costume accepted as sports wear in the girls' schools of the capital by 1887, and was awarded the grand silver medal for their reform costume for school girls in the exhibition of the Russian Hygienic Society in Saint Petersburg in 1893. [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) France [ edit ] There were no separate dress reform societies founded in France. While the issue was adopted and discussed by several of the existing French women's rights organisations, the issue was not given priority and it was not until the great enthusiasm for bicycling in France in the 1890s that women in general adopted the bloomer costume with trousers and no corsets as sports wear. [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) In the early 20th century, however, the French fashion industry was finally influenced by the reform dress movement, which abolished the corset by the 1910s. Germany [ edit ] Germany was a leading country of the dress reform in the 19th century, as it was an integrated part of the great health reform movement Lebensreform (/wiki/Lebensreform) , which spoke for a health reform in clothing for both women and men supported by medical professionals and scientists such as Gustav Jaeger (/wiki/Gustav_J%C3%A4ger_(naturalist)) and Heinrich Lahmann (/wiki/Heinrich_Lahmann) , and freedom from the corset and trousers for women was advocated for already. [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) The women's movement, however, did not engage in the issue until after the International Women's Congress in Berlin in September 1896. Two weeks later the German dress reform association, Allgemeiner Verein zur Verbesserung der Frauenkleidung (General Association for the Improvement of Women's Clothing), was founded. Its first exhibition took place in April 1897 in Berlin. 35 manufacturers had submitted reform proposals. Since 1899 there was even a permanent exhibition in Berlin with examples of "improved women's clothing". Like their equivalents in Austria, the Netherlands and the Nordic countries, the German dress reform association focused on the reform of women's undergarments as the most realistic goal, mainly on corsets. The German movement managed to affect public opinion to such a degree that one of its leading figures, Minna Cauer (/wiki/Minna_Cauer) , was able to report in 1907 that the German corset industry experienced hardships because of a drop in the use of corsets. [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) Japan [ edit ] See also: Meiji-period clothing (/wiki/Meiji-period_clothing) Shimoda Utako in hifu (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hifu_(kimono)) and hakama (/wiki/Hakama) Utako Shimoda (/wiki/Utako_Shimoda) (1854-1936), a women's activist (/wiki/Women%27s_activist) , educator and dress reformer, found traditional kimono (/wiki/Kimono) to be too restrictive, preventing women and girls from moving and taking part in physical activities, harming their health. While Western dress was being adopted at the time, she also believed corsets (/wiki/Corset) to be restrictive and harmful to women's health. [23] (#cite_note-intellectuals-23) Utako Shimoda had worked as lady-in-waiting (/wiki/Lady-in-waiting) to Empress Shōken (/wiki/Empress_Sh%C5%8Dken) from 1871 to 1879. [24] (#cite_note-Shimoda-24) She adapted the clothing worn by ladies-in-waiting at the Japanese imperial court to make a uniform for her Jissen Women's University (/wiki/Jissen_Women%27s_University) . During the Meiji period (/wiki/Meiji_period) (1868–-1912) and Taishō period (/wiki/Taish%C5%8D_period) (1912–-1926), other women's schools also adopted the hakama . [23] (#cite_note-intellectuals-23) It became standard wear for high schools in Japan (/wiki/School_uniforms_in_Japan) , [25] (#cite_note-25) though it was later mostly replaced with Western sailor-style uniforms. Inokuchi Akuri (/wiki/Inokuchi_Akuri) also designed sports clothes for children. At the imperial court, simplified keiko (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Keiko_(dress)) replaced more cumbersome garments. [ citation needed ] The Netherlands [ edit ] In the Netherlands, interest for the issue was aroused after the foundation of a dress reform society in neighboring Germany, and in 1899 the Dutch dress reform society Veereeniging voor Verbetering van Vrouwenkleeding (V.v.V.v.V.). [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) The dress reform society held lectures, participated in exhibitions and worked with designed to produce a new fashion for women which could be not only attractive but also comfortable and healthy at the same time. [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) Norway [ edit ] While there were no separate dress reform societies founded in Norway, the women's rights society Norsk Kvinnesaksforening (/wiki/Norsk_Kvinnesaksforening) actively addressed the issue under the influence of the Swedish Dress Reform Society (/wiki/Svenska_dr%C3%A4gtreformf%C3%B6reningen) from the 1880s; they collaborated with Stockholm and Copenhagen with the design of reform costumes and the exposition of them, notably during the Nordic Exhibition of 1888 (/wiki/Nordic_Exhibition_of_1888) . [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) Norway is in fact described as one of the countries were the interest and success for the issue was greatest. The physician Lorentz Dietrichson (/wiki/Lorentz_Dietrichson) , a prominent participant for the abolition of the corset in the corset controversy (/wiki/Corset_controversy) in both Sweden and Norway, held a lecture in Norway in favor of dress reform already in 1886, as a commentary of the Swedish dress reform movement in which he himself also participated; the Swedish dress reform society successfully exhibited their reform dress in Oslo, the Norsk Kvinnesaksforening became interested, and the movement thereby started in Norway the same year as in Sweden. Johanne Biörn held lectures in the Oslo schools, and the Norwegian designer Kristine Dahl (/w/index.php?title=Kristine_Dahl&action=edit&redlink=1) experienced success not only in her home country of Norway but also in Sweden, becoming a central figure of the dress reform movement. [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) Sweden [ edit ] See also: Svenska drägtreformföreningen (/wiki/Svenska_dr%C3%A4gtreformf%C3%B6reningen) Sweden was a leading nation of the dress reform movement, as the movement came first to Sweden of all the Nordic countries and spread from there to Denmark, Finland and Norway. [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) In 1885, professor Curt Wallis (/w/index.php?title=Curt_Wallis&action=edit&redlink=1) brought with him the English language dress reform book Dress and Health from abroad, which was translated to Swedish by Oscara von Sydow (/w/index.php?title=Oscara_von_Sydow&action=edit&redlink=1) as Reformdrägten: En bok för qvinnor skrifven af qvinnor . [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) After a speech by Anne Charlotte Leffler (/wiki/Anne_Charlotte_Leffler) held at the women's club Nya Idun , the Friends of Handicraft (/wiki/Friends_of_Handicraft) gave Hanna Winge (/wiki/Hanna_Winge) the assignment to design a reform costume, which was produced by Augusta Lundin (/wiki/Augusta_Lundin) and exhibited in public, which gave further publicity to the issue, and in 1886, the Swedish Dress Reform Society (/wiki/Svenska_dr%C3%A4gtreformf%C3%B6reningen) was founded. [26] (#cite_note-26) After an initial attempt to launch a reform costume, the Swedish dress reform movement focused on a reform of women's underwear, particularly the corset. The Swedish reform dress movement corresponded with their equivalent in Great Britain as well as the American dress reform movement of Annie Jenness Miller (/wiki/Annie_Jenness_Miller) . [21] (#cite_note-Cunningham,_Patricia_A-21) The dress reform movement did achieve some success in Sweden; by the 1890s, corsets were no longer accepted for the pupils of the Swedish girls' schools, and the leading Swedish fashion designer Augusta Lundin reported that her clients no longer subjected themselves to tight lacing. [22] (#cite_note-Hazelius-Berg,_Gunnel-22) Eventual shifts in fashion [ edit ] Although the Victorian dress reform movement itself failed to enact widespread change in women's fashion (/wiki/Women%27s_Suffrage_and_Western_Women%27s_Fashion_through_the_early_1900s) , social, political, and cultural shifts into the 1920s brought forth an organic relaxation of dress standards. [27] (#cite_note-auto-27) With new opportunities for women's college (/wiki/Women%27s_college) , the national suffrage (/wiki/Suffrage) amendment of 1920 and women's increased public career options during and after World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) , fashion and undergarment structures relaxed, along with the improved social standing of women. [28] (#cite_note-28) Embodying the New Woman (/wiki/New_Woman) idea, women donned masculine-inspired fashions including simple tailored (/wiki/Tailored) skirt suits, ties, and starched blouses. [29] (#cite_note-29) By the 1920s, male-style garments for casual and sporting activities were less socially condemned. New fashions required lighter undergarments, shorter skirts, looser bodices, trousers, and praised slender 'boyish' figures. [30] (#cite_note-30) As Lady Duff Gordon (/wiki/Lady_Duff_Gordon) remarked, in the 1920s "women took off their corsets, reduced their clothing to the minimum tolerated by conventions and wore clothes which wrapped round them rather than fitted." [31] (#cite_note-31) Although forms of corsets, girdles (/wiki/Girdle_(undergarment)) and bras (/wiki/Bra) were worn well into the 1960s, as Riegel states, "Feminine emancipation had brought greater dress reform than the most visionary of the early feminists had advocated." [27] (#cite_note-auto-27) Gallery [ edit ] Approx. second half of 1880s poster showing Annie Oakley (/wiki/Annie_Oakley) wearing short-skirted attire 1896 ad showing a modified girdle, allowing women freedom of the lower extremities, making it easier to ride a bicycle, then in vogue An 1897 ad, showing a relatively early example of an ordinary non-sea-bathing woman in public view in unskirted garments (to ride a bicycle (/wiki/Bicycle) ) Wigan (/wiki/Wigan) " pit brow lasses (/wiki/Pit_brow_women) " scandalized by wearing trousers (/wiki/Trousers) for dangerous work in coal mines. They wore skirts over their trousers, rolled up to the waist to keep them out of the way. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) History portal (/wiki/Portal:History) Bicycle (/wiki/Bicycle#Female_emancipation) Corset controversy (/wiki/Corset_controversy) History of the bicycle (/wiki/History_of_the_bicycle#The_1880s_and_1890s:_the_safety_bicycle) Lebensreform (/wiki/Lebensreform) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Svenska drägtreformföreningen (/wiki/Svenska_dr%C3%A4gtreformf%C3%B6reningen) Trousers as women's clothing (/wiki/Trousers_as_women%27s_clothing) Victorian fashion (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) Women's suffrage and Western women's fashion through the early 20th century (/wiki/Women%27s_suffrage_and_Western_women%27s_fashion_through_the_early_20th_century) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Fashion, Emancipation, Reform and the Rational Undergarment" Deborah Jean Waugh 'Dress' Vol 4, 1978" ^ (#cite_ref-2) Bryan, C.W. (1887). Good Housekeeping, Vols. 5-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Downtown Walk" (http://bwht.org/downtown/#8) . Boston Women's Heritage Trail (/wiki/Boston_Women%27s_Heritage_Trail) . ^ Jump up to: a b Dress and Morality by Aileen Ribeiro, (Homes and Meier Publishers Inc: New York. 1986) p. 134 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Kunzle, David (2006). Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, tight lacing, and other forms of body sculpture . History Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0750938099 . ^ Jump up to: a b Alice Bunker Stockham. Tokology 1898. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Beecher, Catharine Esther; Stowe, Harriet Beecher (1870). Principles of Domestic Science: As Applied to the Duties and Pleasures of Home : a Text-book for the Use of Young Ladies in Schools, Seminaries, and Colleges . J.B. Ford. ^ Jump up to: a b Summers, Leigh (2001). Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset (reprint ed.). Berg Publishers. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 185973510X . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Woman's dress, a question of the day" (http://www.canadiana.org/view/91023/0011) . Early Canadiana Online . Retrieved 26 March 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Women's Clothes and Women's Right," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 390 ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Women's Clothes and Women's Right," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 391 ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Woman's dress, a question of the day" (http://www.canadiana.org/view/91023/0008) . Early Canadiana Online . Retrieved 26 March 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b Libes, Kenna (5 February 2023). "Inès Gâches-Sarraute and the Straight-Front Corset" (https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/ines-gaches-sarraute-corset/) . Fashion History Timeline . Retrieved 2023-12-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Cunningham, Patricia A (2003). Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. Libris länk. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0873387422 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0873387422) ^ (#cite_ref-15) The New York Times , October 5, 1851: 'Bloomerism in London:...One journal hints very ill-naturedly that the new dress is best adapted for a particular class of "ladies", who, poor things, having a deal of "street-walking", would find the Bloomer costume quite a blessing..' ^ (#cite_ref-16) The Times , Wednesday, Aug 20, 1851; pg. 5; Issue 20885; col A: 'DEBUT OF THE "BLOOMER" COSTUME IN BELFAST:...Three ladies... made their appearance in full "Bloomer" costume...Others, and these most numerous, expressed an opinion the reverse of complimentary to the rank and character of the ladies, identifying them with persons whose overdressed gaiety of appearance in public stamps the class to which they belong.' ^ (#cite_ref-17) The Times, Thursday, Aug 28, 1851; pg. 7; Issue 20892; col B: (A report from the Caledonian Mercury of two women appearing in Edinburgh in reformed dress)'BLOOMERISM IN EDINBURGH:...The singular spectacle thus presented attracted considerable attention even in the retired quarter of the town where it was witnessed, and comments, characterized by freedom more than politeness, were now and again made by urchins who followed the unblushing Bloomers...we learn that the ladies are Americans;...' ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Women's Clothes and Women's Right", Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963):393 ^ (#cite_ref-19) Dress and Morality by Aileen Ribeiro, (Homes and Meier Publishers Inc: New York. 1986): 139 ^ (#cite_ref-20) The Visual History of Costume. Aileen Ribeiro and Valerie Cumming, (Costume & Fashion Press, New York, 1989):188 ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Cunningham, Patricia A. (2003). Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920: politics, health, and art . Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0873387422 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Hazelius-Berg, Gunnel (/wiki/Gunnel_Hazelius-Berg) , Dräktreformer under 1800-talet , Fataburen Nordiska Museets och Skansens årsbok 1949 s. 127–156 ^ Jump up to: a b Racel, Masako N. Thesis (2011). Finding their Place in the World: Meiji Intellectuals and the Japanese Construction of an East-West Binary, 1868-1912 (Thesis). Georgia State University. Source says:"See Shimoda, "Honbō joshi fukusō no enkaku本邦女子服装の沿革 [The Historical Development of Women's Clothing in Japan]," Part I, Onna, 31 January 1901, in Shimoda Utako chosakushū, vol. 1, 1-3; "Joshi no tainin no han'i ni tsukite," Nihon Fujin, 25 April 1900, in Shimoda Utako chosakushū, vol. 4, 107-127." ^ (#cite_ref-Shimoda_24-0) Suzuki, Mamiko (1 June 2013). "Shimoda's Program for Japanese and Chinese Women's Education" (https://doi.org/10.7771%2F1481-4374.2212) . CLCWeb: Comparative Literature and Culture . 15 (2). doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.7771/1481-4374.2212 (https://doi.org/10.7771%2F1481-4374.2212) . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "History of Gakushuin" (https://web.archive.org/web/20201020171353/https://www.gakushuin.ac.jp/ad/kikaku/english/history/) . www.gakushuin.ac.jp . The Gakushuin School. Archived from the original (https://www.gakushuin.ac.jp/ad/kikaku/english/history/) on 2020-10-20 . Retrieved 2021-07-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Bagerius, Henric.. Korsettkriget : modeslaveri och kvinnokamp vid förra sekelskiftet (Första utgåvan, första tryckningen). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-91-27-15169-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-91-27-15169-7) . OCLC 1112090542 ^ Jump up to: a b "Women's Clothes and Women's Right," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 399 ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Women's Clothes and Women's Rights," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 400 ^ (#cite_ref-29) Dress and Morality by Aileen Ribeiro, (Homes and Meier Publishers Inc: New York. 1986) p. 143 ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Women's Clothes and Women's Rights," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 399 ^ (#cite_ref-31) ("Fashion, Emancipation, Reform and the Rational Undergarment" Deborah Jean Waugh 'Dress' Vol 4, 1978: 238 Quote by Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile) from "Discretions and Indiscretions") Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/4177354-8) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.codfw.main‐557d6f8488‐b792m Cached time: 20240713190728 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.580 seconds Real time usage: 0.749 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2079/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 28448/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1779/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 10/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 72143/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.360/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 14468619/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 647.251 1 -total 31.34% 202.823 1 Template:Reflist 18.87% 122.165 5 Template:Cite_book 18.86% 122.048 4 Template:Transl 14.16% 91.629 1 Template:Authority_control 11.70% 75.742 1 Template:Short_description 7.08% 45.796 2 Template:Pagetype 6.88% 44.562 1 Template:Citation_needed 5.43% 35.132 1 Template:Fix 3.84% 24.868 2 Template:Category_handler Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1262498-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713190728 and revision id 1213656714. 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Legal issues that impact fashion This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Fashion_law&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( October 2016 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Fashion law deals with legal issues that impact the fashion industry. [1] (#cite_note-1) Fundamental issues in fashion law include intellectual property (/wiki/Intellectual_property) , business, and finance, with subcategories ranging from employment and labor law to real estate, international trade, and government regulation. Fashion law also includes related areas such as textile production, modelling, media, the cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) and perfume (/wiki/Perfume) industries, [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) questions of safety and sustainability (/wiki/Sustainability) , dress codes (/wiki/Dress_code) and religious apparel (/wiki/Religious_apparel) , consumer culture, privacy and wearable tech (/wiki/Wearable_tech) , and civil rights (/wiki/Civil_rights) . Clothing laws varies by country (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) . History [ edit ] Fashion has long been subject to legal regulation throughout history, from sumptuary laws that limit who can wear certain garments to trade restrictions and varying degrees of intellectual property protection (/wiki/Intellectual_property_protection) . [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) However, fashion law was not conceived as a distinct legal field until the mid- to late-2000s. In May 2004, a group of French lawyers led by Annabelle Gauberti (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annabelle_Gauberti) published a supplement entitled "Droit du luxe" (http://crefovi.com/Droit%20du%20luxe.pdf) (which translates into either "law of luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) " or "luxury law") in the prestigious French legal magazine Revue Lamy Droit des Affaires . This supplement (http://crefovi.com/Droit%20du%20luxe.pdf) explored specific legal and tax issues at stake in the fashion and luxury goods sectors and was one of the earliest analyses of the interactions between the legal field and the fashion and luxury goods industries. Professor Susan Scafidi (/wiki/Susan_Scafidi) offered the first course in Fashion Law at Fordham Law School (/wiki/Fordham_Law_School) in 2006, thus creating a new field of legal study. [6] (#cite_note-6) At the same time, Fashion Law courses for designers were developed by Guillermo Jimenez at the Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) and Deborah McNamara at Parsons School of Design (/wiki/Parsons_School_of_Design) . [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2008, Scafidi wrote that fashion law was only then starting to be recognized as a distinct area of law. [8] (#cite_note-Scafidi2015-8) In 2010, the world's first academic centre dedicated to fashion law, the Fashion Law Institute (/wiki/Fashion_Law_Institute) , launched with the support of Diane von Furstenberg (/wiki/Diane_von_Furstenberg) and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) . Since then a number of other institutions around the world have offered courses or programs in the area of fashion law. These include the University of Milan (/wiki/University_of_Milan) , [9] (#cite_note-9) the University of Insubria (/wiki/University_of_Insubria) , [10] (#cite_note-10) the Instituto Brasileiro de Negócios e Direito da Moda, [11] (#cite_note-11) University at Buffalo Law School (/wiki/University_at_Buffalo_Law_School) , [12] (#cite_note-12) Benjamin N. Cardozo School of Law (/wiki/Benjamin_N._Cardozo_School_of_Law) , [13] (#cite_note-13) New York Law School (/wiki/New_York_Law_School) , [14] (#cite_note-14) New York University (/wiki/New_York_University) , [15] (#cite_note-15) the Fashion Law Project at Loyola Law School (/wiki/Loyola_Law_School) , [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) the Moda Hukuku Enstitusu in Turkey, [18] (#cite_note-18) the annual Fashion Law Week at Howard University (/wiki/Howard_University) , [19] (#cite_note-19) and McGill University Faculty of Law (/wiki/McGill_University_Faculty_of_Law) . [20] (#cite_note-20) Fashion law has also developed into an established field of practice and study. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2010, designer-turned-lawyer Brittany Rawlings [22] (#cite_note-22) led the first Fashion Law practice group [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) dedicated entirely to issues that arise throughout the life of a fashion business. [25] (#cite_note-25) The New York City Bar Association (/wiki/New_York_City_Bar_Association) has had a dedicated Fashion Law Committee since January 2011, [26] (#cite_note-26) and the New York County Lawyer's Association (/wiki/New_York_County_Lawyer%27s_Association) has had a Fashion Law Subcommittee since September 2011. [27] (#cite_note-27) While double-digit turnover growth is being generated by many companies involved in the fashion and luxury goods sectors, an increasing number of lawsuits are filed in this industry, and more legal practitioners are focusing their practice on this particular industry and sector. The international association of lawyers for the creative industries (ialci) was founded in 2013 during Paris Fashion Week. [28] (#cite_note-:0-28) The goal of the association is to provide relevant, useful business and legal knowledge and solutions regarding the creative industries, including fashion and luxury goods. [28] (#cite_note-:0-28) Segments of Fashion Law [ edit ] Intellectual Property [ edit ] Main article: Intellectual property protection (/wiki/Intellectual_property_protection) Intellectual property protection (/wiki/Intellectual_property_protection) has been a substantial legal concern in fashion since the emergence of fashion brands in the 19th century. [29] (#cite_note-29) It has been the subject of congressional debate, [30] (#cite_note-IDPPAhearing-30) multiple academic articles, [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) and the first fashion law blog, [33] (#cite_note-Mitchell-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) as well as a major exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) Museum in New York. [35] (#cite_note-35) Key issues include: the scope of copyright (/wiki/Copyright) protection, [30] (#cite_note-IDPPAhearing-30) trademark (/wiki/Trademark) infringement and counterfeit goods (/wiki/Counterfeit_goods) , [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) utility patents (/wiki/Patent) , particularly in connection with advances in technology, [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) the use of design patents (/wiki/Design_patent) as an alternative or supplement to copyright protection, [40] (#cite_note-40) and comparative international standards. [41] (#cite_note-41) A prominent related issue has been cultural appropriation (/wiki/Cultural_appropriation) , such as the use of Native American or religious designs by commercial fashion brands. [42] (#cite_note-42) [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) Financing and Corporate Structures [ edit ] Fashion law encompasses the broad spectrum of issues pertinent to starting and funding a fashion business, such as: the widespread use of factoring (/wiki/Factoring_(finance)) , [45] (#cite_note-45) the influx of private equity (/wiki/Private_equity) investment, [46] (#cite_note-46) [47] (#cite_note-47) and initial public offerings (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) by major fashion brands. [48] (#cite_note-48) Manufacturing [ edit ] Legal issues in the production of clothing and accessories include: worker safety and other labor practices, [49] (#cite_note-49) [50] (#cite_note-50) [51] (#cite_note-TF_1-51) garment district zoning, [52] (#cite_note-52) and source indication. [53] (#cite_note-53) Marketing [ edit ] Legal issues addressed in connection with marketing include: labelling requirements, [54] (#cite_note-54) [55] (#cite_note-55) licensing, [56] (#cite_note-56) and deceptive advertising. [57] (#cite_note-57) Retail [ edit ] Legal issues connected with the retail environment include: consumer data privacy (/wiki/Information_privacy) and the security of credit card information, [58] (#cite_note-58) [59] (#cite_note-59) discrimination based on racial profiling, [60] (#cite_note-60) and real-estate leasing and ownership. [61] (#cite_note-61) Ethics, Sustainability, and Economic Development [ edit ] Main article: sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Concerns pertaining to fashion ethics, sustainability and economic development have had a substantial impact on the industry, affecting both the legal framework and self-regulation initiatives. Important issues have included: organic certification, [62] (#cite_note-62) greenwashing (/wiki/Greenwashing) , [63] (#cite_note-63) supply-chain monitoring and certification standards (including the Higg Index (/wiki/Higg_Index) and SA8000 (/wiki/SA8000) certification), [64] (#cite_note-64) the regulation of digitally altered images, [65] (#cite_note-65) fair trade fashion, [66] (#cite_note-66) and the impact of philanthropic initiatives and clothing donation programs. [67] (#cite_note-67) International Trade [ edit ] In addition to the international implications of issues noted above, fashion law also addresses other matters connected to international business transactions, including: grey market goods, [68] (#cite_note-68) import and export quotas, [69] (#cite_note-69) transfer pricing taxation, [70] (#cite_note-70) and customs duties. [71] (#cite_note-71) Modelling Law [ edit ] The legal status of models has become a prominent issue in fashion law, as exemplified by: The regulation of models' weight in places, such as Madrid, Milan, and Israel; [72] (#cite_note-72) [73] (#cite_note-73) New York's enactment of a statute giving underage models protection under the state's child labor law; [74] (#cite_note-74) antitrust enforcement in relation to model pay-rates; [75] (#cite_note-75) and efforts to curb fashion-related human trafficking. [76] (#cite_note-76) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Kolsun, Barbara; Jimenez, Guillermo C., eds. (2014). Fashion law : a guide for designers, fashion executives, and attorneys (Second ed.). New York, NY. p. 2. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781609018955 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Jimenez, Guillermo; Kolson, Barbara, eds. (2014). Fashion Law: A Guide for Designers, Fashion Executives and Attorneys (2nd ed.). Fairchild Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-60901-895-5 . , pp. iii-xii. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Herzeca, Lois; Hogan, Howard (2013). Fashion Law and Business: Brands and Retailers . Practicing Law Institute. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4024-2051-1 . . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Huan, Alan (1996). Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law . St. Martins Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-31212-922-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Beebe, Barton (2010). "Intellectual Property Law and the Sumptuary Code". Harvard Law Review . 123 : 809–889. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "About" (https://fashionlawinstitute.com/about) . Fashion Law Institute . 2012-03-14 . Retrieved 2020-10-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Affiliated Faculty and Staff - Innovation Center for Law and Technology" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150905091552/http://www.nyls.edu/innovation-center-for-law-and-technology/faculty/) . www.nyls.edu . 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Retrieved 12 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) "TOMS Shoes and the 'Buy One, Give One' Business Model" (http://www.scpr.org/programs/madeleine-brand/2012/03/20/25658/toms/) . The Madeleine Brand Show - 89.3 KPCC Southern California Public Radio. 20 March 2012 . Retrieved 13 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Bose, Nandita; Bhattacharjee, Nivedita (2 August 2012). "Analysis: India's Online Grey Market for U.S. Clothing Brands" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-licensing-india-idUSBRE8710DK20120802) . Reuters . Retrieved 13 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Cotton Exporter's Guide" (http://www.cottonguide.org) . International Trade Centre . Retrieved 13 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-70) Levy, Marc (28 September 2012). "Tax, Transfer Pricing, and Customs Issues Facing the Industry" (https://web.archive.org/web/20141216225244/http://www.bakermckenzie.com/files/Uploads/Documents/Global%20Luxury%20%26%20Fashion/pn_taxtpcustomsissues.pdf) (PDF) . BakerMcKenzie.com. Archived from the original (http://www.bakermckenzie.com/files/Uploads/Documents/Global%20Luxury%20&%20Fashion/pn_taxtpcustomsissues.pdf) (PDF) on 16 December 2014 . Retrieved 12 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-71) "Clothing, Footwear, and Fashion: International Trade Regulations" (https://www.gov.uk/clothing-footwear-and-fashion) . UK Trade & Investment. 11 September 2012 . Retrieved 13 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-72) Povoledo, Elisabetta (15 September 2006). "Milan Wants to See More Meat on Models" (https://www.nytimes.com/2006/09/15/world/europe/15iht-milan.2829566.html) . New York Times . Retrieved 13 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-73) Nota, Bruno (3 January 2013). "Israeli Law Bans Skinny, BMI-Challenged Models" (https://abcnews.go.com/International/israeli-law-bans-skinny-bmi-challenged-models/story?id=18116291) . ABC News (/wiki/ABC_News_(United_States)) . Retrieved 12 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-74) Greenhouse, Stephen (23 December 2013). "A New Alliance Steps Up to Protect the Next Generation of Models" (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/24/business/a-new-alliance-steps-up-to-protect-the-next-generation-of-models.html) . New York Times . Retrieved 12 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-75) Spindler, Amy (2 December 1994). "Trade Commission is Investigating How Designers Set Fees for Models" (https://www.nytimes.com/1994/11/02/garden/trade-commission-is-investigating-how-designers-set-fees-for-models.html) . New York Times . Retrieved 12 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-76) Catsoulis, Jeannette (4 September 2012). "Little Cover Girls Star in an Adult Reality" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/05/movies/girl-model-a-documentary-on-the-industry.html) . New York Times . 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French fashion company This article is about the company. For the designer, see Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) . For other uses, see Dior (disambiguation) (/wiki/Dior_(disambiguation)) . This article may need to be rewritten to comply with Wikipedia's quality standards (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style) . You can help (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dior&action=edit) . The talk page (/wiki/Talk:Dior) may contain suggestions. ( July 2024 ) A major contributor to this article appears to have a close connection (/wiki/Wikipedia:Conflict_of_interest) with its subject. It may require cleanup to comply with Wikipedia's content policies, particularly neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . Please discuss further on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Dior) . ( July 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Christian Dior SE Headquarters in Paris, France Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) ( Societas Europaea (/wiki/Societas_Europaea) ) [1] (#cite_note-dior-finance-1) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) Euronext Paris (/wiki/Euronext_Paris) : CDI (https://euronext.com/products/equities/FR0000130403-XPAR) ISIN (/wiki/International_Securities_Identification_Number) FR0000130403 (https://isin.toolforge.org/?language=en&isin=FR0000130403) Industry Luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) Founded 16 December 1946 ; 77 years ago ( 1946-12-16 ) Founder Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) Headquarters 30 Avenue Montaigne (/wiki/Avenue_Montaigne) Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France [2] (#cite_note-Infogreffe-2) Number of locations 210 Area served Worldwide Key people Delphine Arnault (/wiki/Delphine_Arnault) ( Chairwoman (/wiki/Chairperson) & CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Antoine Arnault (/wiki/Antoine_Arnault) (Vice-Chairman) Maria Grazia Chiuri (/wiki/Maria_Grazia_Chiuri) ( Creative Director (/wiki/Creative_Director) ) Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) (Creative Director) [3] (#cite_note-kimjonesNYT-3) Products Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) , fashion accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) , jewelry (/wiki/Jewellery) , perfumes (/wiki/Perfume) , spirits (/wiki/Distilled_beverage) , watches (/wiki/Watch) , wines (/wiki/Wine) Services Department stores (/wiki/Department_store) Revenue €79.18 billion (2022) [4] (#cite_note-FY-4) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €20.99 billion (2022) [4] (#cite_note-FY-4) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €14.70 billion (2022) [4] (#cite_note-FY-4) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €131.9 billion (2022) [4] (#cite_note-FY-4) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €54.31 billion (2022) [4] (#cite_note-FY-4) Number of employees 196,006 (2022) [4] (#cite_note-FY-4) Divisions (/wiki/Division_(business)) Christian Dior Cosmetics Dior Homme (/wiki/Dior_Homme) Parfums Christian Dior (/wiki/Parfums_Christian_Dior) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Christian Dior Couture [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Website dior.com (https://www.dior.com/) Christian Dior SE ( French: [kʁistjɑ̃ (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) djɔʁ] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ), [1] (#cite_note-dior-finance-1) commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR ), is a French multinational (/wiki/Multinational_corporation) luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) [2] (#cite_note-Infogreffe-2) controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) , who also heads LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) . Dior holds 42.36% shares and 59.01% of voting rights within LVMH. [6] (#cite_note-RefDoc2010-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) The company was founded in 1946 by French fashion designer Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) . Haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) is under the Christian Dior Couture division. Delphine Arnault has been the CEO of Christian Dior Couture since 2023. [8] (#cite_note-:6-8) History [ edit ] Founding [ edit ] The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946 [9] (#cite_note-9) [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) at 30 Avenue Montaigne (/wiki/Avenue_Montaigne) in Paris. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates "1947" as the opening year. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac (/wiki/Marcel_Boussac) . [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston (/wiki/Philippe_et_Gaston) , but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand. [11] (#cite_note-pochna-11) The new couture house became a part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a "majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac's reputation as a "control freak". Dior's creativity also negotiated him a good salary." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) "New Look" [ edit ] "Bar" suit, 1947, displayed in Moscow, 2011 On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of "90 models of his first collection on six mannequins (/wiki/Mannequin) " was presented in the salons of the company's headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Originally, the two lines were named "Corolle" and "Huit". [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the " New Look " after the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) Carmel Snow (/wiki/Carmel_Snow) exclaimed, "It's such a new look!" [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s. [12] (#cite_note-dior.com-12) When the collection was presented, the editor in chief also showed appreciation by saying; "It's quite a revolution, dear Christian!" [12] (#cite_note-dior.com-12) The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France. [13] (#cite_note-mistry-13) Along with that, the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young-looking. [14] (#cite_note-14) "We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well." [15] (#cite_note-15) The silhouette was characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasized the bust and hips, as epitomized by the "Bar" suit from the first collection. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) The Bar suit was a contribution from the head of Dior's tailoring atelier, a young Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) , who was employed by the house from 1947 to 1949. [18] (#cite_note-18) The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime, with full skirts, tight waists, and soft shoulders. Dior retained some of the masculine aspects, as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s, but he also wanted to include more feminine style. [19] (#cite_note-19) The "New Look" became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , regained its preeminence. [20] (#cite_note-20) [21] (#cite_note-hcn-21) [22] (#cite_note-22) The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret (/wiki/Princess_Margaret) in the UK. [ citation needed ] According to Harold Koda (/wiki/Harold_Koda) , Dior credited Charles James (/wiki/Charles_James_(designer)) with inspiring The New Look. [23] (#cite_note-The_Costume_Institute_Previews_'Charles_James:_Beyond_Fashion'-23) Dior's designs from the "New Look" did not only affect the designers in the 1950s, but also more recent designers in the 2000s, including Thom Browne, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood. Dior's evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers, and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist (Jojo, 2011). Examples include Vivienne Westwood's Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen's Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2011 (Jojo, 2011). [ citation needed ] Not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing. [24] (#cite_note-24) Feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that these corseted (/wiki/Corset) designs were restrictive and regressive, and that they took away a woman's independence. [25] (#cite_note-DW-25) There were several protest groups against the designs including, the League of Broke Husbands, made up of 30,000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs. Fellow designer Coco Chanel (/wiki/Coco_Chanel) remarked, "Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable." [21] (#cite_note-hcn-21) Despite such protests, the New Look was highly influential, continuing to inform the work of other designers (/wiki/Designer) and fashion well into the 21st century. [13] (#cite_note-mistry-13) For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007, John Galliano revisited it for his Spring-Summer collection for Dior. [26] (#cite_note-alexander-26) Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders, modernised and updated with references to origami (/wiki/Origami) and other Japanese influences. [26] (#cite_note-alexander-26) In 2012 Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior, wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner. [13] (#cite_note-mistry-13) [27] (#cite_note-menkes-27) Simons's work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette, but encouraged self-respect for the woman's body and liberation of expression. [27] (#cite_note-menkes-27) The design process for this collection, which was produced in only eight weeks, is documented in Dior and I (/wiki/Dior_and_I) , presenting Simons's use of technology and modernist re-interpretations. [28] (#cite_note-28) Dior [ edit ] Dior's NYC Store (2019) Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums (/wiki/Christian_Dior_Parfums) was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Miss Dior . [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum , which was named after Catherine Dior (/wiki/Catherine_Dior) (Christian Dior's sister). [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The modern Dior corporation also notes that "a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) and 57th Street, the first of its kind," in 1948. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) In 1949, the "Diorama" perfume is released and [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Expansion, and death of Christian Dior [ edit ] Eva Perón (/wiki/Eva_Per%C3%B3n) , the First Lady of Argentina (/wiki/First_Lady_of_Argentina) and one of Dior's muses (/wiki/Muse_(person)) , wears a custom evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) at the Teatro Colón (/wiki/Teatro_Col%C3%B3n) , 1949. Silk satin evening pumps by Dior, c. 1960 Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris's fashion exports and 5% of France's total export revenue. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) In 1949, Douglas Cox from Melbourne, Australia, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market. Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop. [29] (#cite_note-29) A young Jill Walker, still in her mid teens, was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox, a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily. Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield. [30] (#cite_note-30) The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox really put Australian dressmaking on the global stage, yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant-garde for the conservative Australian taste. Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior-Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture. [31] (#cite_note-31) In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of "Christian Dior" visibly on a variety of luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) . [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) It was placed first on neckties [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) and soon was applied to hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Members of the French Chamber of Couture (/w/index.php?title=French_Chamber_of_Couture&action=edit&redlink=1) denounced it as a degrading action for the haute-couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue "for decades to come", [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) which all couture houses followed. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) 's dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock (/wiki/Alfred_Hitchcock) film Stage Fright (/wiki/Stage_Fright_(1950_film)) . In 1951, Dior released his first book, Je Suis Couturier ( I am a Couturier ) through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company's strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth (/w/index.php?title=House_of_Youth&action=edit&redlink=1) for Christian Dior New York models. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Los Gobelinos (/w/index.php?title=Los_Gobelinos&action=edit&redlink=1) in Santiago, Chile (/wiki/Santiago,_Chile) , made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did counterfeiting (/wiki/Counterfeit) . [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods. By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Conduit Street (/wiki/Conduit_Street) . In honour of Princess Margaret (/wiki/Princess_Margaret) and the Duchess of Marlborough (/w/index.php?title=Frances_Spencer-Churchill,_Duchess_of_Marlborough&action=edit&redlink=1) , a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne (/wiki/Avenue_Montaigne) and Rue François Ier (/w/index.php?title=Rue_Fran%C3%A7ois_Ier&action=edit&redlink=1) in 1955. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company's 10th anniversary in 1956. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Actress Ava Gardner (/wiki/Ava_Gardner) had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson (/wiki/Mark_Robson_(film_director)) film The Little Hut (/wiki/The_Little_Hut) . Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957. The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The captivating impact of Dior's creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history's greatest fashion figures. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that "by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Dior without Christian Dior: 1957 through the 1970s [ edit ] The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos, and general manager Jacques Rouët considered shutting down operation worldwide. This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry; the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action. To bring the label back on its feet, Rouët promoted the 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(designer)) to Artistic Director the same year. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Saint Laurent had joined the House's family in 1955 after being personally picked out by the original designer for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Saint Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior (the mention of Dior from this moment on refers to the company) in 1958. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior's in the same exquisite fabrics, but their young designer made them softer, lighter and easier to wear. Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero. Emboldened by his success, his designs became more daring, culminating in the 1960 Beat (/wiki/Beat_poetry) Look inspired by the existentialists (/wiki/Existentialists) in the Saint-Germain des Près (/wiki/Saint-Germain_des_Pr%C3%A8s) cafés and jazz clubs. His 1960 bohemian (/wiki/Bohemian_style) look was harshly criticized, and even more in Women's Wear Daily . [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Marcel Boussac was furious, and in the spring, when Saint Laurent was forced to leave the house of Dior, having been called up to join the French army, the Dior management raised no objection. Saint Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Christian Dior Haute Couture suit designed by Marc Bohan, spring/summer 1973. Adnan Ege Kutay Collection Saint Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan (/wiki/Marc_Bohan) in late 1960. Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections. He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label "at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes," and Women's Wear Daily, not surprisingly, claimed that he "rescued the firm." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Bohan's designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures. Actress Elizabeth Taylor (/wiki/Elizabeth_Taylor) ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan's Spring-Summer 1961 collection featuring the "Slim Look". The Dior perfume "Diorling" was released in 1963 and the men's fragrance " Eau Sauvage (/wiki/Eau_Sauvage) " was released in 1966. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Bohan's assistant Philippe Guibourgé launched the first French ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) collection "Miss Dior" in 1967. This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready-to-Wear store established in 1948. Designed by Bohan, "Baby Dior" opened its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne. The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line was released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior was taken over by Frédéric Castet. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) This year as well, Dior Parfums was sold to Moët-Hennessy (/wiki/LVMH) (which would itself become LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) ) due to Boussac's ailing textile company (the still-owner of Dior). [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) This, however, had no effect on the House of Dior operations, and so the Christian Dior Cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line. Following this, Bohan launched the first Christian Dior Homme (/wiki/Dior_Homme) clothing line in 1970. A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by Gae Aulenti (/wiki/Gae_Aulenti) and the "Diorella" perfume was released in 1972. Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973, and then manufactured under license in the United States, Canada, and Japan. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The first Dior watch "Black Moon" was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom. Dior haute-couture graced the bodies of Princess Grace of Monaco (/wiki/Princess_Grace_of_Monaco) , Nicaraguan First Lady Hope Portocarrero (/wiki/Hope_Portocarrero) , Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia (/wiki/Alexandra_of_Yugoslavia) , and Lady Pamela Hicks (/wiki/Lady_Pamela_Hicks) ( Lord Mountbatten of Burma (/wiki/Louis_Mountbatten,_1st_Earl_Mountbatten_of_Burma) 's younger daughter) for the wedding of The Prince of Wales (/wiki/The_Prince_of_Wales) and Lady Diana Spencer (/wiki/Lady_Diana_Spencer) . In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets (including those of Christian Dior) were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the Paris Trade Court (/w/index.php?title=Paris_Trade_Court&action=edit&redlink=1) . [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The perfume "Dioressence" was released in 1979. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Arrival of businessman Arnault [ edit ] A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan (/wiki/Marc_Bohan) , from the Spring 1983 collection In 1980, Dior released the men's fragrance "Jules". [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) After the Willot Group (/w/index.php?title=Willot_Group&action=edit&redlink=1) went into bankruptcy in 1981, Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) and his investment group purchased it for " one symbolic franc (/wiki/Peppercorn_(legal)) " in December 1984. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The Dior perfume " Poison (/wiki/Poison_(perfume)) " was launched in 1985. That same year, Arnault became chairman, chief executive officer, and managing director of the company. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) On assuming leadership, Arnault did away with the company's mediocre textile operations, to focus on the Bon Marché department store and Christian Dior Couture. Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault. He repositioned it as the holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) Christian Dior S.A. of the Dior Couture fashion business. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) On the 40th anniversary of Dior's first collection, the Paris Fashion Museum (/w/index.php?title=Paris_Fashion_Museum&action=edit&redlink=1) dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) In 1988, Arnault's Christian Dior S.A.'s took a 32% equity stake into the share capital of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton (/wiki/LVMH) through its subsidiary Jacques Rober (/w/index.php?title=Jacques_Rober&action=edit&redlink=1) , creating what would become one of the leading and most influential luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_good) companies in the world. Under this milestone merger, the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré (/wiki/Gianfranco_Ferr%C3%A9) replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) The first such non- Frenchman (/wiki/Frenchmen) , Ferré left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance, and introduced concepts and a style described as "refined, sober and strict." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Ferré headed design for Haute Couture, Haute Fourrure, Women's Ready-to-Wear, Ready-to-Wear Furs and Women's Accessories collections. His first collection was awarded the Dé d'Or (/w/index.php?title=D%C3%A9_d%27Or&action=edit&redlink=1) in 1989. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) That year, a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44%. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City, Los Angeles, and Tokyo shopping districts. The stake in LVMH rose again, to 46%. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Another collection of watches named "Bagheera" – inspired by the round design of the "Black Moon" watches – was also released in 1990. Having fired the company's managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990, Arnault took up that position until September 1991, when he placed former Bon Marché president Phillipe Vindry at the post. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) In 1991, Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the Paris Stock Exchange (/wiki/Paris_Stock_Exchange) 's monthly settlement market, and the perfume "Dune" was launched. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Vindry dropped ready-to-wear prices by 10%. Still, a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1,500. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129.3 million, with a net income of $22 million. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Dior was now reorganized into three categories: 1) women's ready-to-wear, lingerie, and children's wear 2) accessories and jewelry 3) menswear. Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced, to increase the company's control over brand product. Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted "for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Wholly company-owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur) , Cannes (/wiki/Cannes) , and Waikiki (/wiki/Waikiki) , adding to its core stores located in New York City, Hawaii, Paris and Geneva (/wiki/Geneva) . This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high-profile locations." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) In 1992, Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix, and the "Miss Dior" perfume was relaunched. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Leather gloves by Christian Dior The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named Christian Dior Couture in 1995. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Also, the "La Parisienne" watch model was released – embodied in the watch "Parisian Chic". By that year, revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million, with a net income of USD 26.9 million. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Under the influence of Anna Wintour, editor and chief of Vogue, CEO Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) to replace Gianfranco Ferré (/wiki/Gianfranco_Ferr%C3%A9) in 1997 (Galliano on CBS News (/wiki/CBS_News) : "without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior"). [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) [32] (#cite_note-32) This choice of a British designer, once again instead of a French one, is said to have "ruffled some French feathers". Arnault himself stated that he "would have preferred a Frenchman", but that "talent has no nationality". [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself, noting that "Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism, and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations – his suits, his dresses – one finds similarities to the Dior style." [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows, such as "Homeless Show" (models dressed in newspapers and paper bags) or "S&M Show". [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) Meanwhile, Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) On 15 October 1997, the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened –it had been closed and remodeled by Peter Marino (/wiki/Peter_Marino) – in a celebrity-studded event including Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) , Demi Moore (/wiki/Demi_Moore) and Jacques Chirac (/wiki/Jacques_Chirac) . That year, Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan's Kanebo. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) In May 1998, another Dior boutique was opened in Paris. This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Also this year, Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of Dior Fine Jewellery and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City. Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year, at 28 Avenue Montaigne. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The perfume " J'adore (/wiki/J%27Adore_(fragrance)) " was released in 1999, [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) and on 5 October 1999, Galliano released the Dior Spring-Summer 2000 ready-to-wear fashion show, debuting the new Saddle bag. In the same year, Dior's long watch partner Benedom joined the LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) group. In 2000, Galliano's leadership was extended to Ready to wear, accessories, advertising and communications. The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by Nick Knight and featured two women simulating intercourse. Like many other brands in the late 1990s, notably Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) , [33] (#cite_note-33) featured suggestive images in their ads to draw public attention, Dior ads had such an impact that such publicity became a trend in most fashion ads. Galliano ignited the escalation of erotic advertisements, which culminated with Ungaro's zoophilic ads, [34] (#cite_note-34) shot by Mario Sorrenti, and another ad for Gucci that featured a model with pubic hair shaped like the signature Gucci logo. As a matter of fact, it is considered that Galliano had revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns than through his designs. [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) On 17 July 2000, Dior Homme (/wiki/Dior_Homme) lead designer Patrick Lavoix (/w/index.php?title=Patrick_Lavoix&action=edit&redlink=1) was replaced by Hedi Slimane (/wiki/Hedi_Slimane) . Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive "Malice", which features bracelets made of "CD" links, as well as the "Riva". Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by Kris Van Assche (/wiki/Kris_Van_Assche) . 21st century [ edit ] In 2001, the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new "contemporary masculine concept" instilled by its designer Hedi Slimane. Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Soon, Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including Brad Pitt (/wiki/Brad_Pitt) and Mick Jagger (/wiki/Mick_Jagger) . [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) John Galliano then began to release his own Dior watches in 2001, beginning with the "Chris 47 Aluminum" line, marking a new era in Dior watch design. Next, the "Malice" and "Riva" watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the "Malice Sparkling" and "Riva Sparkling" spin-off collections. Inspired by the Spring-Summer 2002 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior released the "Dior 66" watch, breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design. The Dior flagship boutique in the upscale Ginza (/wiki/Ginza) shopping district of Tokyo. First opened in 2004. The men's fragrance "Higher" was released in 2001, followed by the perfume "Addict" in 2002. The company then opened Milan (/wiki/Milan) 's first Dior Homme boutique on 20 February 2002. By 2002, 130 locations were in full operation. [10] (#cite_note-funding-10) On 3 June 2002, Slimane was presented with the "International Designer of the Year" award by the CFDA (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) . Until 2002, Kanebo (/w/index.php?title=Kanebo&action=edit&redlink=1) was the Christian Dior ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) license holder in Japan and, when the license expired, Christian Dior was able to profitable directly sell its ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) and accessories in its own boutiques. [37] (#cite_note-Luxury-37) The "Chris 47 Steel" watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original "Chris 47 Aluminum". Bernard Arnault, Hélène Mercier-Arnault (/w/index.php?title=H%C3%A9l%C3%A8ne_Mercier-Arnault&action=edit&redlink=1) , and Sidney Toledano (/wiki/Sidney_Toledano) witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the Omotesandō (/wiki/Omotesand%C5%8D) district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003. The second Dior flagship store was opened in the upscale Ginza (/wiki/Ginza) shopping district of Tokyo in 2004. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened also that year in Paris on Rue Royale (/wiki/Rue_Royale) , and it presented the entire Dior Homme collection. A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendôme. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named "Le D de Dior" (French: "The D of Dior"). signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry. This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine. Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called "Chiffre Rouge." This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme: "Watch design and technology match each other inseparably, to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme's artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces." De Castellane then launched her second line of watches called "La Baby de Dior". The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a "jewelry look." Dior Omotesandō (/wiki/Omotesand%C5%8D) , 2007 Dior sign in the Debenhams (/wiki/Debenhams) store in Sutton, London (/wiki/Sutton,_London) , England The "Miss Dior Chérie" perfume and the "Dior Homme" fragrance were released in 2005. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) Galliano released his "Dior Christal" watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a "creative and innovative collection." Christian Dior S.A. then celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005, and, in April of that year, its "Chiffre Rouge" collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland (/wiki/Basel,_Switzerland) . Also in the year, the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) An exhibition, "Christian Dior: Man of the Century," was held in the Dior Museum in Granville, Normandy (/wiki/Granville,_Normandy) . In 2006, the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior Canework (/wiki/Caneworking) . This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the Napoleon III (/wiki/Napoleon_III_style) chairs used in his fashion shows. In 2007, Kris Van Assche was appointed as the new artistic director of Dior Homme. Van Assche presented his first collection later that year. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well. [5] (#cite_note-dior-5) By February 2011, the House of Dior was in scandal after accusations of John Galliano making antisemitic remarks made international headlines: the company found itself in a "public relations nightmare." [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Galliano was fired in March and the scheduled presentation of his Fall-Winter 2011/2012 ready-to-wear collection went ahead without him, amid the controversy, on 4 March. [39] (#cite_note-39) Before the start of the show, chief executive Sydney Toledano gave a sentimental speech on the values of Christian Dior and alluded to the family's ties to The Holocaust (/wiki/The_Holocaust) . [40] (#cite_note-40) The show closed with the staff of the atelier coming out to accept applause in the absence of their artistic director. (The previous January 2011 presentation of Spring-Summer 2011 haute-couture was the last appearance of Galliano on the Dior runway.) The company went on ahead and appointed Bill Gaytten as head designer interim in absence of artistic director. [41] (#cite_note-41) Gaytten had worked under Galliano for Dior and for the John Galliano label. The first haute-couture collection (for the Fall-Winter 2011 season) under Gaytten's management was presented in July and was received with mainly negative reviews. [42] (#cite_note-42) [43] (#cite_note-Gayttenfirstshow-43) Meanwhile, speculation remained for months as it was unknown who would be selected to replace Galliano. During its 13-month period of having no artistic director, Dior began undergoing subtle changes in its designs as the influence of the theatrical and flamboyant Galliano faded. The all-new resigned dior.com was launched in late 2011. There is a subtext to this New New Look that goes beyond respect for the house's esteemed founder. In one fell swoop, John Galliano has been all but removed from the Dior history books. By making a visual connection between his era and that of Christian Dior himself, Raf Simons has redrawn the line of succession. The unimpeachable codes of Dior are illustrated for a new generation; the bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano downgraded to a footnote. —Critic surmising the meaning of Simons' premier collection for Dior [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) On 23 January 2012, Gaytten presented his second haute-couture collection (for the Spring-Summer 2012 season) for Dior and it was much better received than his first collection. [45] (#cite_note-45) Belgian designer Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) was announced, on 11 April 2012, as the new artistic director of Christian Dior. Simons was known for his minimalist designs, [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) and this contrasted against the dramatic previous designs of Dior under Galliano. Furthermore, Simons was seen to have emerged as a "dark horse" amid the names of other designers who were considered high contenders. [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) To emphasize the appropriate choice of Simons as the right designer, the company ostentatiously made comparisons between Simons and the original designer Christian Dior. [46] (#cite_note-46) Reportedly, Bernard Arnault and fellow executives at Dior and LVMH were keen to move Dior from the Galliano years. [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Simons spent much time in the Dior archives [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) and familiarizing himself with haute-couture (as he had no previous background in that niche of fashion). [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Simons was then scheduled to debut his designs in July. Meanwhile, Gaytten's Spring-Summer 2012 haute-couture collection was presented as the first Dior haute-couture show ever to be held in China on 14 April in Shanghai; [48] (#cite_note-48) and it was a mark of the company's devotion to its presence in the Chinese market. Cosmetics counter at New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) department store Smith & Caughey's (/wiki/Smith_%26_Caughey%27s) in Auckland (/wiki/Auckland) , New Zealand The show was the last presentation by Gaytten for Dior, and he remained as head designer for the John Galliano label. [49] (#cite_note-49) On 3 May, the Dior: Secret Garden — Versailles (/wiki/Versailles_(city)) promotional film was launched. [50] (#cite_note-50) It was highly buzzed about throughout various industry and social media sources as it was a display of Dior through its transition. Simons presented his first-ever collection for the company — the Fall-Winter 2012 haute-couture collection — on 2 July. A major highlight of the fall-winter 2012 haute-couture shows, [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) [51] (#cite_note-51) the collection was called by the company as "the new couture" and made reference to the start of a new Dior through the work of Simons "wiping the [haute couture] slate clean and starting again from scratch." [52] (#cite_note-52) The designer's collection "made more references to Mr. Dior than to the house of Dior" [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) with pieces harkening back to themes Dior's post-World War II designs introduced to fashion. [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Simons, who rarely makes himself available for interviews, gave an interview published by the company through its Dior Mag online feature. [53] (#cite_note-53) While previous runway presentations under Galliano were held at the Musée Rodin (/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_Rodin) , Simons' show was held at a private residence, near the Arc de Triomphe (/wiki/Arc_de_Triomphe) , with the address only disclosed to select top-clients, celebrities, journalists, and other personnel exclusively invited in a discreet affair. [54] (#cite_note-live-54) High-profile figures in attendance included designers Azzedine Alaïa (/wiki/Azzedine_Ala%C3%AFa) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [55] (#cite_note-washingtonpost-55) Alber Elbaz (/wiki/Alber_Elbaz) (Lanvin designer), [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) Diane von Fürstenberg (/wiki/Diane_von_F%C3%BCrstenberg) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) [55] (#cite_note-washingtonpost-55) Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) [55] (#cite_note-washingtonpost-55) Christopher Kane (/wiki/Christopher_Kane) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) Olivier Theyskens (/wiki/Olivier_Theyskens) , [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [55] (#cite_note-washingtonpost-55) Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) ; [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) [55] (#cite_note-washingtonpost-55) and Princess Charlene of Monaco (/wiki/Charlene,_Princess_of_Monaco) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) actresses Marion Cotillard (/wiki/Marion_Cotillard) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Mélanie Laurent (/wiki/M%C3%A9lanie_Laurent) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Jennifer Lawrence (/wiki/Jennifer_Lawrence) , [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Sharon Stone (/wiki/Sharon_Stone) ; film producer Harvey Weinstein (/wiki/Harvey_Weinstein) ; [47] (#cite_note-thedailybeast-47) and Dior chairman Arnault with his daughter. [38] (#cite_note-NYTjuly2-38) Live satellite feed of the show was provided on DiorMag online and Twitter was also implemented for real time communication. [54] (#cite_note-live-54) By then, it was also known that the company had purchased the Parisian embroidery firm Maison Vermont sometime earlier in 2012. [44] (#cite_note-guardianjuly2-44) In March 2015 it was announced that Barbadian singer, actress and businesswoman Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) was chosen as the official spokeswoman for Dior; this makes her the first black woman to take the spokeswoman position at Dior. [56] (#cite_note-56) In 2015, Israeli (/wiki/Israel) model Sofia Mechetner (/wiki/Sofia_Mechetner) was chosen to be the new face of Dior. [57] (#cite_note-57) In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri (/wiki/Maria_Grazia_Chiuri) was named the women's artistic director for Dior. [58] (#cite_note-58) In April 2016 a new Dior flagship boutique opened in San Francisco, with a party hosted by Jaime King (/wiki/Jaime_King) . [59] (#cite_note-59) In 2017, Dior renovated and expanded its Madrid store. The brand celebrated the opening of the new boutique in a masked ball attended by a number of Spanish celebrities like Alejandro Gómez Palomo. [60] (#cite_note-60) In March 2018, Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) was named the men's artistic director for the house. [3] (#cite_note-kimjonesNYT-3) Under his management Dior has made several high profile streetwear collaborations. Jones first show for Dior featured American artist and designer Brian Donnelly, a.k.a. KAWS (/wiki/Kaws) . Thereafter followed collaborations with Raymond Pettibon (/wiki/Raymond_Pettibon) , 1017 ALYX 9SM, Yoon Ahn (/wiki/Yoon_Ahn) , Hajime Sorayama (/wiki/Hajime_Sorayama) , Daniel Arsham (/wiki/Daniel_Arsham) , Sacai (/wiki/Sacai) and most recently Shawn Stussy, creator of the legendary streetwear brand Stüssy (/wiki/St%C3%BCssy) . [61] (#cite_note-61) In October 2019, Dior apologized to China (/wiki/China) for using a map of China that excluded Taiwan (/wiki/Taiwan) . [62] (#cite_note-62) On 11 March 2022, 30 Avenue Montaigne has once again opened its doors to the public. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) The property was closed for two years for a major renovation led by architect Peter Marino (/wiki/Peter_Marino) . [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) Historically, 30 Avenue Montaigne is the place where Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) showcased his first collection. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) In January 2023, it was announced Delphine Arnault (/wiki/Delphine_Arnault) would assume the role of chairperson and CEO, beginning in February. [64] (#cite_note-64) Fashion shows [ edit ] Fashion show Date Creative director Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear 20 January 2020 Maria Grazia Chiuri (/wiki/Maria_Grazia_Chiuri) Pre-Fall 2020 11 December 2019 Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear 30 September 2016 Resort 2017 31 May 2016 Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear 4 March 2016 Spring 2003 Couture 19 January 2003 John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear — Fall 2000 Couture 28 July 2000 Fall 2000 Ready-to-Wear 28 February 2000 Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear — Fall 1999 Couture 19 July 1999 Spring 1998 Couture — Financial data [ edit ] Dior pays subcontractors as little as 53 euro for a handbag sold for 2600 euro. [65] (#cite_note-65) Financial data in € millions [66] (#cite_note-66) Year 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Revenue (/wiki/Revenue) 29.881 30.984 35.081 37.968 43.666 Net Income (/wiki/Net_Income) 3.926 3.883 6.165 4.164 5.753 Assets (/wiki/Assets) 55.555 61.161 60.030 62.904 72.762 Employees 2535 2780 3033 3100 3800 Criticism [ edit ] 2000s [ edit ] In 2000, Galliano's collection inspired by homeless people drew criticism, but also attention, to the house of Dior. [67] (#cite_note-67) 2010s [ edit ] In early 2011, scandal arose when John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) was accused of making antisemitic (/wiki/Antisemitic) comments after drinking in Paris. Footage was released of the designer under the influence of alcohol saying "I love Hitler" and "People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers would be fucking gassed and dead" to a non-Jewish woman. [68] (#cite_note-nydailynews1-68) In France, it is against the law to make antisemitic remarks, and is punishable by up to six months in prison. [68] (#cite_note-nydailynews1-68) On 1 March 2011, Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy. [69] (#cite_note-69) 2022 [ edit ] This section may need to be rewritten to comply with Wikipedia's quality standards (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style) . You can help (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dior&action=edit) . The talk page (/wiki/Talk:Dior) may contain suggestions. ( July 2024 ) In the context of the Russian full-scale invasion and Russia’s terroristic actions in Ukraine, Dior took several measures. Dior's parent company, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said it would "temporarily close [their] stores in Russia and pause all [their] commercial activities." LVMH brands include Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Moët & Chandon. The decision affects 120 stores and 3,500 employees. [70] (#cite_note-70) In November 2022, Dior launched a Cruise 2023 collection. The photographs showcase models in Russian clothes' attributes on a typical Russian landscape, which caused much controversy in the media. The comments under Dior posts on social media feature people arguing about the motives of the campaign. [71] (#cite_note-:7-71) On the one side, people supported the brand and thanked it for the support of Russian culture. On the other side, the arguments claimed that supporting a culture that, in the meantime, kills another culture (via conducting massive missile attacks on civil infrastructure, performing numerous acts of terrorism, killing civilians, and destroying Ukrainian culture) is an unethical decision at least. Plagiarism and cultural appropriation controversies [ edit ] 2017 [ edit ] In 2017, Dior was accused of cultural appropriation by directly plagiarizing a Bihor (/wiki/Bihor_County) coat, a traditional Romanian (/wiki/Romanians) vest, by using the same colour and patterns in its pre-fall collection; Dior had presented it as their original designs without giving any credit to the people of Bihor nor crediting the Romanian people as source of inspiration. [72] (#cite_note-:4-72) [73] (#cite_note-:5-73) As a result, Romanian people were outraged and to fight against this cultural appropriation, a campaign was launched by Romanian fashion magazine Beau Monde (/wiki/Beau_Monde) who then recruited native craftsmen and fashion designers from Bihor to create a new line of fashion. [72] (#cite_note-:4-72) The cover of the Beau Monde magazine read: [73] (#cite_note-:5-73) Don't let traditions go out of stock. Support the fashion from Bihor and buy authentic creations from Bihorcouture.com — Beau Monde Thus, the online platform named Bihor Couture was launched; Bihor Couture also publicly shamed Dior for "theft" and sold original artisan-made versions of the traditional Romanian vest. [72] (#cite_note-:4-72) 2022 [ edit ] Main article: Mamianqun § 2022 Dior controversy (/wiki/Mamianqun#2022_Dior_controversy) In April 2022, Dior released a new midi-skirt in Seoul, Dior's art director Maria Grazia Chiuri described the 2022 Fall collection design was inspired by school uniform (including pleated skirts), also in honour of Catherine Dior. [74] (#cite_note-:1-74) This new skirt was plain black wrap-around skirt which was made of two panels of fabric which was sewn to the waistband of the skirt; it featured four flat panels with no pleats (one at each side of each panel of fabric) and pleats; it was constructed in an overlapping fashion such that there was two overlapping flat surface at the back and front and side pleats when worn. [75] (#cite_note-75) [74] (#cite_note-:1-74) On its official website page, this skirt was described as "a hallmark Dior silhouette, the mid-length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation [...]". [76] (#cite_note-76) Example of a midi- mamianqun (/wiki/Mamianqun) designed by Chinese Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) fashion designers (/wiki/Fashion_design) , a 21st-century modified version of the Ming dynasty-style, modern, worn by a Hanfu enthusiast (/wiki/Hanfu_Movement) , photograph taken on the 29 March 2022 Three month later, this skirt was noticed by some Hanfu enthusiasts (/wiki/Hanfu_Movement) , who criticized it as being created by copying the mamianqun (/wiki/Mamianqun) design. [77] (#cite_note-77) They also indicated that this skirt have the exact same cut and construction as the mamianqun with only its length being the difference from the orthodox-style and historical mamianqun of the Ming dynasty (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) (1368–1644 AD). [74] (#cite_note-:1-74) [78] (#cite_note-:2-78) It was, however, noted by Chinese netizens that the 21st modified, modern version of the mamianqun , also included midi- mamianqun , had been designed in the past years by Chinese Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) designers. [79] (#cite_note-79) [78] (#cite_note-:2-78) Dior decided to stop this sale in Mainland China to avoid controversy. On 23 July, about 50 Chinese overseas students in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France (/wiki/France) , made a protest in front of a Dior flagship store at the Champs-Élysées (/wiki/Champs-%C3%89lys%C3%A9es) , [80] (#cite_note-80) [81] (#cite_note-81) they used the slogan "Dior, Stop Cultural Appropriation" and "This is a traditional Chinese dress" written with a mixture of French and English; [82] (#cite_note-82) they also called for other overseas students from the United Kingdom and the United States for relay, the Communist Youth League of China (/wiki/Communist_Youth_League_of_China) also expressed support for this protest. [83] (#cite_note-83) There are also more than 10 Chinese democratic activists lifted banners writing "Skirt Rights Is Bigger Than Human Rights" etc. for anti-protest. And both sides started a conflict with each other. Chinese news media initially have no mention for anti-protest but focused on cultural embezzling accuse. [84] (#cite_note-84) Chinese network also spread a theory that the democracy activists were composed by Taiwanese. [85] (#cite_note-85) Some French news media commented this was largely due to Dior does not describe its origin for sale with transparency, most criticize views argued that Dior did not respect to Chinese traditions. [86] (#cite_note-:3-86) According to the Journal du Luxe , a French news media, the adoption of the mamianqun cut and construction design by Dior was not the main issue of the debate and critics but rather on the absence of transparency surrounding the origins of the inspirations behind the skirt design. [86] (#cite_note-:3-86) Some Chinese netizens also criticized Dior on Weibo (/wiki/Sina_Weibo) with comments, such as "Was Dior inspired by Taobao (/wiki/Taobao) ?" [87] (#cite_note-:19-87) while another Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) user commented on the official Dior account: [86] (#cite_note-:3-86) "Les références culturelles à notre pays [Chine] sont plus que bienvenues mais cela ne signifie pas pour autant que vous pouvez détourner notre culture et nier le fait que cette jupe est chinoise!" [transl. "Taking cultural references from our country [China] is more than welcomed; however, this does not meaning that you can appropriate our culture and deny the fact that this skirt is Chinese!"]. — Instagram user, in Journal du Luxe Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for a second time in July 2022 for due to its usage of pattern print which looks like the huaniaotu (/wiki/Bird-and-flower_painting) ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 花鸟图 ; lit. 'bird-and-flower painting') into its 2022 autumn and winter ready-to-wear collection having introduced it as being Dior's signature motif Jardin d'Hiver , which was inspired by Christian Dior's (/wiki/Christian_Dior) wall murals; [88] (#cite_note-88) the huaniaotu is a traditional Chinese painting theme which belong to the Chinese scholar-artist style in Chinese painting (/wiki/Chinese_painting) and originated in the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) . [89] (#cite_note-89) 2024 [ edit ] In July 2024, the Autorità Garante della Concorrenza e del Mercato (/wiki/Italian_Competition_Authority) (AGCM), launched an investigation Dior and other fashion companies. The probe aims to determine whether these companies misled consumers regarding their labor practices and supply chain management. [90] (#cite_note-90) Ownership and shareholdings [ edit ] At the end of 2010, the only declared major shareholder in Christian Dior S.A. was Groupe Arnault SAS, the family holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) of Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) . The group's control amounted to 69.96% of Dior's stock and 82.86% of its voting rights. [91] (#cite_note-AR2010-91) The remaining shares are considered free float (/wiki/Free_float) . [91] (#cite_note-AR2010-91) Christian Dior S.A. held 42.36% of the shares of LVMH and 59.01% of its voting rights at the end of 2010. Arnault held an additional 5.28% of shares and 4.65% of votes directly. [6] (#cite_note-RefDoc2010-6) Creative directors [ edit ] Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) – 1946–1957 Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint-Laurent_(designer)) – 1957–1960 Marc Bohan (/wiki/Marc_Bohan) – 1960–1989 Gianfranco Ferré (/wiki/Gianfranco_Ferr%C3%A9) – 1989–1997 John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) – 1997–2011 Bill Gaytten (/w/index.php?title=Bill_Gaytten&action=edit&redlink=1) – 2011–2012 Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) – 2012–2015 Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier (/w/index.php?title=Serge_Ruffieux_%26_Lucie_Meier&action=edit&redlink=1) 2015–2016 Maria Grazia Chiuri (/wiki/Maria_Grazia_Chiuri) (women's) – 2016–present Hedi Slimane (/wiki/Hedi_Slimane) (men's) – 2000–2007 Kris Van Assche (/wiki/Kris_Van_Assche) (men's) – 2007–2018 Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) (men's) – 2018–present Retail locations [ edit ] Dior boutique in Buenos Aires (/wiki/Buenos_Aires) , Argentina (/wiki/Argentina) The company operates a total of 535 locations as of April 2023: [92] (#cite_note-92) Asia: 143 Africa: 6 Europe: 192 Middle East: 45 North America: 117 Oceania: 10 South America: 2 See also [ edit ] Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) France (/wiki/Portal:France) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Christian Dior SE – bylaws" (https://web.archive.org/web/20210108212159/http://www.dior-finance.com/en-US/ProfilDuGroupe/pdf/Gouvernance/statuts-societe-europeenne-2020.pdf) (PDF) . dior-finance.com . Archived from the original (http://www.dior-finance.com/en-US/ProfilDuGroupe/pdf/Gouvernance/statuts-societe-europeenne-2020.pdf) (PDF) on 8 January 2021 . Retrieved 9 September 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Christian Dior" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220703212348/https://www.infogreffe.com/entreprise-societe/582110987-christian-dior-750158B110980000.html?typeProduitOnglet=EXTRAIT&afficherretour=true&tab=entrep) . Infogreffe . Archived from the original (https://www.infogreffe.com/entreprise-societe/582110987-christian-dior-750158B110980000.html?typeProduitOnglet=EXTRAIT&afficherretour=true&tab=entrep) on 3 July 2022 . Retrieved 9 September 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Paton, Elizabeth (19 March 2018). "Dior Confirms Kim Jones as Men's Wear Artistic Director" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/19/business/christian-dior-kim-jones.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180319164154/https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/19/business/christian-dior-kim-jones.html) from the original on 19 March 2018 . Retrieved 12 July 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f "Christian Dior Annual Report" (https://www.dior-finance.com/pdf/d/2/759/Dior%20Annual%20Report%20as%20of%20December%2031,%202022.pdf) (PDF) . Christian Dior SE . 2 May 2023. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20240219032617/https://www.dior-finance.com/pdf/d/2/759/Dior%20Annual%20Report%20as%20of%20December%2031,%202022.pdf) (PDF) from the original on 19 February 2024 . Retrieved 18 February 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay Company History at Dior's website (http://www.dior-finance.com/en/historique.asp) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20081107025618/http://www.dior-finance.com/en/historique.asp) 7 November 2008 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ Jump up to: a b "LVMH – Reference Document 2010" (http://www.lvmh.com/comfi/pdf/LVMH-2010-Reference-Document.pdf) (PDF) . LVMH. pp. 241–242 . Retrieved 29 May 2011 . [ permanent dead link ] Financière Jean Goujon, "a wholly owned subsidiary of Christian Dior", held 42.36% of capital and 59.01% of voting rights within the company at the end of 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Gay Forden, Sara; Bauerova, Ladka (5 February 2009). "LVMH Cuts Store Budget After Profit Misses Estimates" (https://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601085&sid=aW9oFMUcKDkk&refer=europe) . Bloomberg (/wiki/Bloomberg_L.P.) . Retrieved 1 January 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-:6_8-0) Godfrey Deeny (8 November 2017). "Sidney Toledano quitte Christian Dior et sera remplacé par Pietro Beccari" (https://fr.fashionnetwork.com/news/sidney-toledano-quitte-christian-dior-et-sera-remplace-par-pietro-beccari,889251.html) . Fashion Network. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200708003417/https://fr.fashionnetwork.com/news/sidney-toledano-quitte-christian-dior-et-sera-remplace-par-pietro-beccari,889251.html) from the original on 8 July 2020 . 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Dior was reportedly introduced to Boussac by Jean Choplin, the founder of AIESEC and marketing director of Boussac. pp. 90–92. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781559703406 . ^ Jump up to: a b "THE NEW LOOK, A LEGEND" (http://www.dior.com/couture/en_hk/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution) . Dior . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170328045217/http://www.dior.com/couture/en_hk/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution) from the original on 28 March 2017 . Retrieved 26 July 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Mistry, Meenal (1 March 2012). "Spring's new look: Sixty-five years ago, Christian Dior started a revolution that's still influencing the designers of today". Harper's Bazaar . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Palmer, A., & Palmer, A. (2009). Dior. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Best, K. (2017). The history of fashion journalism. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "The Golden Age of Couture – Exhibition Highlights: 'Bar' Suit & Hat – Christian Dior" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighBarSuit.php) . Victoria & Albert Museum. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140125061114/http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighBarSuit.php) from the original on 25 January 2014 . Retrieved 13 February 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) " (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81460) "Bar" suit and jacket" (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81460) . The Metropolitan Museum of Art . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140222020108/http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.58.34.30_C.I.69.40) from the original on 22 February 2014 . Retrieved 26 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Cardin First Struck Gold with Suit Made for Dior" (https://www.nytimes.com/1958/08/07/archives/cardin-first-struck-gold-with-suit-made-for-dior.html) . The New York Times : 22. 27 August 1958. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230407015530/https://www.nytimes.com/1958/08/07/archives/cardin-first-struck-gold-with-suit-made-for-dior.html) from the original on 7 April 2023 . Retrieved 5 April 2023 . Cocteau and Berard...introduced...Cardin to [Dior,] who was...preparing his first fashion collection...Cardin designed, cut, and made a coat and a suit. He showed them to Dior, who...enrolled him on his team....Cardin spent three...years at Dior...Cardin...designed one of the most successful models...a suit called 'Bar,' which buyers the world over bought. ^ (#cite_ref-19) Sessions, D. (26 June 2017). "1940s Fashion History for Women and Men" (https://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-fashion-history/) . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220804214712/https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/15487733.2022.2100102) from the original on 4 August 2022 . Retrieved 4 August 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Romanian people sued Dior for copying their folk clothing in his collection - Nationalclothing.org" (http://nationalclothing.org/europe/96-romania/342-romanian-people-sued-dior-for-copying-their-folk-clothing-in-his-collection.html) . nationalclothing.org . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220729124455/http://nationalclothing.org/europe/96-romania/342-romanian-people-sued-dior-for-copying-their-folk-clothing-in-his-collection.html) from the original on 29 July 2022 . Retrieved 4 August 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Hu, Denni (18 July 2022). "Dior Sparks Online Criticism for Traditional Chinese Dressing Design" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/dior-online-criticism-traditional-chinese-dressing-design-1235254616/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220803060724/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/dior-online-criticism-traditional-chinese-dressing-design-1235254616/) from the original on 3 August 2022 . Retrieved 3 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-75) Cultural Appropriation｜I bought Dior's $3800 skirt & It is a copycat of Chinese Mamianqun , archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220803125154/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4Tn9gu43lk&feature=youtu.be) from the original on 3 August 2022 , retrieved 3 August 2022 ^ (#cite_ref-76) "Dior faces criticisms over new skirt resembling ancient Chinese clothing" (https://www.marketing-interactive.com/dior-faces-criticisms-over-new-skirt-resembling-ancient-chinese-clothing) . www.marketing-interactive.com . 18 July 2022. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220721050200/https://www.marketing-interactive.com/dior-faces-criticisms-over-new-skirt-resembling-ancient-chinese-clothing) from the original on 21 July 2022 . Retrieved 3 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-77) " (http://news.hbtv.com.cn/p/2234841.html) "迪奥抄袭"引热议，网友：公开抄袭中国马面裙" (http://news.hbtv.com.cn/p/2234841.html) . Changjiang Cloud (in Chinese (China)). 16 July 2022. ^ Jump up to: a b Yuanyuan, Zhao (19 July 2022). "Dior accused of appropriating Chinese culture with $3,800 skirt" (https://supchina.com/2022/07/18/dior-accused-of-appropriating-chinese-culture-over-3800-skirt/) . SupChina . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220803132836/https://supchina.com/2022/07/18/dior-accused-of-appropriating-chinese-culture-over-3800-skirt/) from the original on 3 August 2022 . Retrieved 3 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-79) Koetse, Manya (15 July 2022). "Mamianqun Gate: Dior Accused of Cultural Appropriation for Copying Design of Traditional Chinese Skirt" (https://www.whatsonweibo.com/mamianqun-gate-dior-accused-of-cultural-appropriation-for-copying-design-of-traditional-chinese-skirt/) . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220804003756/https://www.cnn.com/style/article/dior-cultural-appropriation-accusations-chinese-skirt/index.html) from the original on 4 August 2022 . Retrieved 3 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-83) Shamuratov, J; Alimbaev, M (30 May 2022). "The significance of technology in teaching l2" (https://doi.org/10.47689%2Finnovations-in-edu-vol-iss1-pp214-216) . Ренессанс в парадигме новаций образования и технологий в XXI веке (1): 214–216. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.47689/innovations-in-edu-vol-iss1-pp214-216 (https://doi.org/10.47689%2Finnovations-in-edu-vol-iss1-pp214-216) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2277-3010 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2277-3010) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 249361979 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:249361979) . ^ (#cite_ref-84) "중국인 유학생이 파리 '디올' 매장 앞에서 시위하는 이유는?" (https://news.v.daum.net/v/fmXuR5xvj1) . 서울신문 (in Korean). 25 July 2022. ^ (#cite_ref-85) 汉良 (24 July 2022). "巴黎中国留学生抗议迪奥抄袭 反示威者讽刺：裙子比人权重要？" (https://news.seehua.com/?p=857937) . 马来西亚诗华日报新闻网 (in Chinese). Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220727050133/https://news.seehua.com/?p=857937) from the original on 27 July 2022. ^ Jump up to: a b c "Dior : une polémique entre appropriation et transparence culturelle" (https://journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/polemique-chine-dior-jupe) . journalduluxe.fr (in French). 21 July 2022. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220808051628/https://journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/polemique-chine-dior-jupe) from the original on 8 August 2022. ^ (#cite_ref-:19_87-0) "$3,800 Dior Skirt Accused of Appropriating Chinese Culture" (https://www.vice.com/en/article/wxndqn/dior-skirt-china-cultural-appropriation) . www.vice.com . 18 July 2022. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220803060724/https://www.vice.com/en/article/wxndqn/dior-skirt-china-cultural-appropriation) from the original on 3 August 2022 . Retrieved 3 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-88) Looi, Sylvia (4 August 2022). "In less than a month, French fashion brand Dior accused of cultural appropriation again" (https://www.malaymail.com/news/life/2022/08/04/in-less-than-a-month-french-fashion-brand-dior-accused-of-cultural-appropriation-again/20975) . Malay Mail . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220805001252/https://www.malaymail.com/news/life/2022/08/04/in-less-than-a-month-french-fashion-brand-dior-accused-of-cultural-appropriation-again/20975) from the original on 5 August 2022 . Retrieved 4 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-89) "Flower-and-Bird Paintings" (http://en.chinaculture.org/gb/en_artqa/2004-02/18/content_46038.htm) . en.chinaculture.org . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220127044051/http://en.chinaculture.org/gb/en_artqa/2004-02/18/content_46038.htm) from the original on 27 January 2022 . Retrieved 4 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-90) "Italy antitrust targets Armani, Dior after worker exploitation probes" (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/italys-antitrust-investigates-armani-dior-over-alleged-exploitation-workers-2024-07-17/) . Reuters . 17 July 2024 . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Annual Report 2010" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111003042401/http://www.dior-finance.com/en/pdf/ar2010_full.pdf) (PDF) . Christian Dior. Archived from the original (http://www.dior-finance.com/en/pdf/ar2010_full.pdf) (PDF) on 3 October 2011 . Retrieved 29 May 2011 . Shareholdings p. 33; employees p. 57; financials pp. 100–102. ^ (#cite_ref-92) "DIOR | All Addresses | Worldwide" (https://www.dior.com/fashion/stores/en_int) . www.dior.com . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230502103420/https://www.dior.com/fashion/stores/en_int) from the original on 2 May 2023 . Retrieved 2 May 2023 . Further reading [ edit ] Jackson, Lesley (1991). The New Look: Design in the Fifties . London: Thames & Hudson. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-500-27644-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-500-27644-7) . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Christian Dior S.A. (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Christian_Dior_S.A.) . 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American photographer (born 1965) For the ice hockey goaltender, see Terry Richardson (ice hockey) (/wiki/Terry_Richardson_(ice_hockey)) . For the rugby league footballer, see Terry Richardson (rugby league) (/wiki/Terry_Richardson_(rugby_league)) . Terry Richardson Richardson in 2012 Born ( 1965-08-14 ) August 14, 1965 (age 58) New York City, U.S Occupation Fashion photographer (/wiki/Fashion_photographer) Years active 1993–2018 [1] (#cite_note-1) Agent Art Partner Known for Photography Style Punk aesthetic (/wiki/Punk_subculture) , "amateur" aesthetic (/wiki/Snapshot_aesthetic) Spouses Nikki Uberti ( m. 1996; div. 1999) Alexandra Bolotow ( m. 2017) Children 2 Parents Bob Richardson (/wiki/Bob_Richardson_(photographer)) Norma Kessler Website www (http://www.terryrichardson.com) .terryrichardson (http://www.terryrichardson.com) .com (http://www.terryrichardson.com) Terrence Richardson (born August 14, 1965) is an American fashion (/wiki/Fashion_photography) and portrait photographer (/wiki/Portrait_photographer) . He has shot advertising campaigns for Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) , Aldo (/wiki/ALDO_Groupe) , Supreme (/wiki/Supreme_(clothing)) , Sisley, Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford_(brand)) , and Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) among others, and also done work for magazines such as Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) , GQ (/wiki/GQ) , Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) , Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , i-D (/wiki/I-D) , and Vice (/wiki/Vice_(magazine)) . Since 2001, Richardson has been accused by multiple models of sexual misconduct. [2] (#cite_note-Guardian-2) [3] (#cite_note-NootSeear-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2017, brands and magazines that had worked with Richardson in the past began distancing themselves from him, and said they would no longer employ him. [6] (#cite_note-6) He has not actively worked as a photographer since 2018. [7] (#cite_note-auto-7) Early life Richardson was born in New York City, the son of Norma Kessler, an actress, [8] (#cite_note-index-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) and Bob Richardson (/wiki/Bob_Richardson_(photographer)) , a fashion photographer (/wiki/Fashion_photographer) who struggled with schizophrenia (/wiki/Schizophrenia) and drug abuse. [10] (#cite_note-10) Richardson's father was Irish Catholic (/wiki/Irish_Catholic) and his mother is Jewish. [11] (#cite_note-11) Following the divorce of his parents, Richardson moved to Woodstock, New York (/wiki/Woodstock,_New_York) , with his mother and stepfather, English guitarist Jackie Lomax (/wiki/Jackie_Lomax) . [8] (#cite_note-index-8) Richardson later moved to the Hollywood (/wiki/Hollywood,_Los_Angeles) neighborhood of Los Angeles, where he attended Hollywood High School (/wiki/Hollywood_High_School) . [12] (#cite_note-12) He moved with his mother to Ojai (/wiki/Ojai,_California) , California, where he attended Nordhoff High School (/wiki/Nordhoff_High_School) , when he was 16. [13] (#cite_note-womens-13) Richardson originally wanted to be a punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) musician rather than a photographer. [13] (#cite_note-womens-13) He played bass guitar in the punk rock band The Invisible Government for four years. [14] (#cite_note-14) He played bass for a variety of other punk bands in Southern California (/wiki/Southern_California) including Signal Street Alcoholics, Doggy Style, Baby Fist and Middle Finger. [8] (#cite_note-index-8) [15] (#cite_note-guardian-15) Career Richardson's mother reportedly gave him his first snapshot (/wiki/Snapshot_(photography)) camera in 1982, [13] (#cite_note-womens-13) which he used to document his life and the punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) scene in Ojai. [13] (#cite_note-womens-13) In 1992, Richardson quit music and moved to the East Village (/wiki/East_Village,_Manhattan) neighborhood of New York City, where he began photographing young people partying and other nightlife. [16] (#cite_note-district-16) It was in New York City that he had his first "big break." [15] (#cite_note-guardian-15) His first published fashion photos appeared in Vibe (/wiki/Vibe_(magazine)) in 1994. [16] (#cite_note-district-16) [17] (#cite_note-creative-17) His Vibe spread was shown at Paris' International Festival de la Mode later that year. [15] (#cite_note-guardian-15) Following the showing, Richardson shot an advertising campaign for fashion designer Katharine Hamnett (/wiki/Katharine_Hamnett) 's spring 1995 collection. [15] (#cite_note-guardian-15) [16] (#cite_note-district-16) The campaign was noted for images of young women wearing short skirts with their pubic hair showing. [15] (#cite_note-guardian-15) [18] (#cite_note-18) Richardson ( right ) with Courtney Love (/wiki/Courtney_Love) attending New York Fashion Week in 2011 Richardson then moved to London [16] (#cite_note-district-16) and worked for the magazines The Face (/wiki/The_Face_(magazine)) , i-D (/wiki/I-D) and Arena (/wiki/Arena_(magazine)) . [16] (#cite_note-district-16) Throughout his career, Richardson has shot the campaigns of fashion brands and designers such as: Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) , Aldo (/wiki/ALDO_Groupe) , Supreme (/wiki/Supreme_(clothing)) , Sisley, Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) , and Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) . He has also worked for magazines such as Rolling Stone (/wiki/Rolling_Stone) , GQ (/wiki/GQ) , Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) , and Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) . [2] (#cite_note-Guardian-2) Richardson has produced several campaigns for Diesel (/wiki/Diesel_(brand)) , including the 'Global Warming Ready' which won a Silver Lion for Print at Cannes Lions International Advertising Festival (/wiki/Cannes_Lions_International_Advertising_Festival) in 2007. [19] (#cite_note-19) He has produced several private portraits for the company's founder, Renzo Rosso (/wiki/Renzo_Rosso) . In September 2011, they hosted a mutual book launch together with fashion editor Carine Roitfeld (/wiki/Carine_Roitfeld) , at Colette (/wiki/Colette_(boutique)) in Paris. [20] (#cite_note-20) In 2012 Richardson embarked on his first solo exhibition at Los Angeles's OHWOW Gallery (/wiki/OHWOW) , titled Terrywood. [21] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-21) In May 2012, a video of model Kate Upton (/wiki/Kate_Upton) performing the Cat Daddy (/wiki/Cat_Daddy) dance for Richardson in his studio went viral. In December 2012, Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) announced that Richardson was filming a documentary about her life. Gavin McInnes (/wiki/Gavin_McInnes) of Vice (/wiki/Vice_(magazine)) defended Richardson in 2004, saying his work was criticized by "first-year feminist types." [22] (#cite_note-observer_2004-22) Gallery shows Richardson with Jared Leto (/wiki/Jared_Leto) in 2012 Richardson held his first gallery showing in 1998. [23] (#cite_note-laweekly-23) The show, entitled These Colors Don't Run and held at Alleged Gallery, coincided with the release of his first book entitled Hysteric Glamour. [23] (#cite_note-laweekly-23) His work was later included in another show entitled Smile at Alleged Gallery. [24] (#cite_note-24) Richardson had his first Paris show at Galarie Emmanuel Perrotin in 1999. [25] (#cite_note-25) Richardson's "Feared by Men Desired by Women" was shown at an exhibition at London's Shine Gallery the following year. [26] (#cite_note-26) Terryworld, an exhibition of Richardson's work of the name, was shown in 2004 at Deitch Gallery in New York City. [15] (#cite_note-guardian-15) [27] (#cite_note-27) The Orange County Museum of Art showed Richardson's work as part of a group show entitled Beautiful Losers in 2005. [28] (#cite_note-28) Mom + Dad, a show exhibiting work from Richardson's book of the same name, was held at Half Gallery in New York City in 2011. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) The same year, photographs from Richardson's book Hong Kong were shown at Art Hong Kong. [31] (#cite_note-31) Richardson's work was later shown at Los Angeles's OHWOW Gallery (/wiki/OHWOW) . [32] (#cite_note-times-32) The exhibition was titled Terrywood and ran from February 24 to March 31, 2012. [21] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-21) Music videos Richardson began directing music videos in the late 1990s. [17] (#cite_note-creative-17) He directed videos for Death in Vegas (/wiki/Death_in_Vegas) and Primal Scream (/wiki/Primal_Scream) as well as alternate music video of the song "Find a New Way" by Young Love (/wiki/Young_Love_(band)) , and Whirlwind Heat (/wiki/Whirlwind_Heat) 's "Purple" featuring models Susan Eldridge and Charlotte Kemp Muhl (/wiki/Charlotte_Kemp_Muhl) . [17] (#cite_note-creative-17) [33] (#cite_note-33) He directed the music video for " Red Lips (/wiki/Red_Lips_(song)) " by Sky Ferreira (/wiki/Sky_Ferreira) . [34] (#cite_note-34) He also makes a cameo appearance in Thirty Seconds to Mars (/wiki/Thirty_Seconds_to_Mars) 's video for " Hurricane (/wiki/Hurricane_(Thirty_Seconds_to_Mars_song)) ". [35] (#cite_note-35) The music video for "Oldie" by Odd Future (/wiki/Odd_Future) was recorded during a photoshoot with Richardson and was published on March 20, 2012. Richardson can be seen in the video snapping photos of the collective while they party and play in front of a large white backdrop. On August 29, 2013, he directed Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9_Knowles) in a music video at Coney Island (/wiki/Coney_Island) for her single " XO (/wiki/XO_(song)) ". [36] (#cite_note-36) He also directed " Wrecking Ball (/wiki/Wrecking_Ball_(Miley_Cyrus_song)) " by Miley Cyrus (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus) . In late 2013 Richardson did the treatment on the music video for " Do What U Want (/wiki/Do_What_U_Want) " by Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) and R. Kelly (/wiki/R._Kelly) from her third studio album titled Artpop (/wiki/Artpop) , but the film was never released. On August 21, 2017, Richardson directed the Anitta (/wiki/Anitta_(singer)) music video, " Vai Malandra (/wiki/Vai_Malandra) ", at Vidigal (/wiki/Vidigal,_Rio_de_Janeiro) , Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_de_Janeiro) . Style There are several repeating themes in Richardson's work, notably that of putting high-profile celebrities in mundane situations and photographing them using traditionally pedestrian methods, such as the use of an instant camera (/wiki/Instant_camera) . [37] (#cite_note-nymag-37) His work also explores ideas of sexuality, with many of the pieces featured in his books Kibosh and Terryworld depicting full-frontal nudity and both simulated and actual sexual acts. [38] (#cite_note-Holson-38) Initially, many of Richardson's subjects were shot before a white background but he eventually expanded to other backdrops. [39] (#cite_note-39) He is known for posing with his subjects, often giving them his trademark glasses so they may "pretend to be him" or, in the case of actress Chloë Sevigny (/wiki/Chlo%C3%AB_Sevigny) , posing them in makeup and costume so that they look like him. [40] (#cite_note-40) Richardson counts Larry Clark (/wiki/Larry_Clark) , Nan Goldin (/wiki/Nan_Goldin) , Diane Arbus (/wiki/Diane_Arbus) and Robert Frank (/wiki/Robert_Frank) as early influences on his artistic style. [16] (#cite_note-district-16) His work has been praised by Helmut Newton (/wiki/Helmut_Newton) . [41] (#cite_note-41) Richardson described his style as, "Trying to capture those unpremeditated moments when people's sexualities come up to the surface." [42] (#cite_note-42) Richardson is also known for his nonsexual portraiture (/wiki/Portrait_photography) . He has taken portraits of a wide variety of celebrities and politicians. [38] (#cite_note-Holson-38) [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) [46] (#cite_note-46) Personal life Relationships and family Richardson was married (/wiki/Marriage_in_the_United_States) to model Nikki Uberti from 1996 to 1999. [47] (#cite_note-47) [22] (#cite_note-observer_2004-22) Richardson dated political staffer and businesswoman Audrey Gelman (/wiki/Audrey_Gelman) from 2011 until 2013. [48] (#cite_note-48) [49] (#cite_note-49) He started dating his long-time photography assistant, Alexandra "Skinny" Bolotow in 2014. [50] (#cite_note-50) On March 19, 2016, Bolotow gave birth to twin boys. [51] (#cite_note-:3-51) [52] (#cite_note-52) He has said it was "the most intense, inspiring, exhilerating [ sic (/wiki/Sic) ], and humbling experience of my life." [53] (#cite_note-53) The couple married in 2017 in Taos, New Mexico (/wiki/Taos,_New_Mexico) . [54] (#cite_note-54) He currently resides in Bearsville, New York (/wiki/Bearsville,_New_York) . [7] (#cite_note-auto-7) Philanthropy In 2010, Richardson became involved with RxArt, a charity that donates art to children's hospitals. [55] (#cite_note-55) [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) Sexual misconduct allegations Since 2001, [58] (#cite_note-:0-58) Richardson has been accused multiple times of using his influence in the fashion industry to sexually exploit models during photo shoots, including coercing them to engage in sexual acts with him. [2] (#cite_note-Guardian-2) [22] (#cite_note-observer_2004-22) Models with whom he has worked (including Rie Rasmussen (/wiki/Rie_Rasmussen) and Jamie Peck (/wiki/Jamie_Peck_(podcaster)) ) have accused Richardson of sexual misconduct, including exploitation. [2] (#cite_note-Guardian-2) [59] (#cite_note-59) [60] (#cite_note-60) [61] (#cite_note-61) In a 2010 interview at French Institute Alliance Française (/wiki/French_Institute_Alliance_Fran%C3%A7aise) , Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) said that Richardson is "not ill-spirited". [62] (#cite_note-MarcJacobs-62) [63] (#cite_note-63) Richardson published a letter in 2014 in The Huffington Post (/wiki/HuffPost) defending himself against the accusations. [64] (#cite_note-:1-64) [65] (#cite_note-:2-65) Richardson said that the allegations are false and that he considers himself "considerate and respectful" of his photography subjects. [66] (#cite_note-FoxNews-66) Models including Noot Seear (/wiki/Noot_Seear) , Daisy Lowe (/wiki/Daisy_Lowe) , and Charlotte Free have defended him. [3] (#cite_note-NootSeear-3) [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-68) In 2017, due to the allegations of Richardson's sexual misconduct, many fashion brands and fashion magazines decided to no longer commission his work, including Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_designer)) , Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) , and the Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) magazines: Vogue, Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) , Wired (/wiki/Wired_(magazine)) , Vanity Fair , and GQ. [58] (#cite_note-:0-58) [64] (#cite_note-:1-64) [65] (#cite_note-:2-65) Following the professional repercussions, he has not actively worked since 2018. [7] (#cite_note-auto-7) [69] (#cite_note-69) Publications (1998) Hysteric Glamour . Hysteric Glamour (/wiki/Hysteric_Glamour) (Tokyo). OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 86068704 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/86068704) . (1999) Son of Bob . Little More (Tokyo). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-4-947648-87-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-4-947648-87-7) . (2000) Terry Richardson – Feared by Men, Desired by Women . Shine Gallery (London). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9538451-1-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-9538451-1-8) . (2002) Too Much . Sisley (Italy). (2004) Terry – The Terry Richardson Purple Book . Purple Institute (Paris). OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 62146661 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/62146661) . (2004) Terry Richardson . Stern Gruner + Jahr (Hamburg). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-570-19443-0 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-570-19443-0) . (2004) Terryworld . By Dian Hanson. Taschen (/wiki/Taschen) (Hong Kong; Los Angeles). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-8365-0191-0 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-3-8365-0191-0) . (2006) Kibosh . Damiani Editore (Bologna). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-88-89431-30-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-88-89431-30-6) . (2006) Manimal . Hysteric Glamour (Tokyo). (2007) Rio, Cidade Maravilhosa . Diesel (/wiki/Diesel_(brand)) /Vintage Denin (Brazil). (2011) Hong Kong . Diesel (Hong Kong). (2011) Mom & Dad . Mörel Books (London). (2011) Lady Gaga x Terry Richardson (/wiki/Lady_Gaga_x_Terry_Richardson) . Grand Central Publishing (/wiki/Grand_Central_Publishing) (New York City). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4555-1389-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-4555-1389-5) . (2016) Skinny . Idea Books (London). [51] (#cite_note-:3-51) References ^ (#cite_ref-1) Friedman, Vanessa; Paton, Elizabeth (October 27, 2017). " (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/terry-richardson-sexual-harassment-fashion-photographers.html) 'Terry Richardson Is Just the Tip of the Iceberg' (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/terry-richardson-sexual-harassment-fashion-photographers.html) " (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/terry-richardson-sexual-harassment-fashion-photographers.html) . The New York Times . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Davies, Caroline (March 19, 2010). "Fashion photographer Terry Richardson accused of sexually exploiting models" (https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2010/mar/19/terry-richardson-fashion-photography-pornography) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130912034028/https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2010/mar/19/terry-richardson-fashion-photography-pornography) from the original on September 12, 2013 . Retrieved August 29, 2010 . ^ Jump up to: a b Thorp, Charles (March 19, 2010). "Model Noot Seear Defends Terry Richardson" (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2010/03/model_noot_seear_defends_terry.html) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . Retrieved April 22, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Phong Luu. "Daisy Lowe on Terry Richardson: 'He just exudes this sexual energy' (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304125520/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8955936/Daisy-Lowe-on-Terry-Richardson-He-just-exudes-this-sexual-energy.html) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304125520/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8955936/Daisy-Lowe-on-Terry-Richardson-He-just-exudes-this-sexual-energy.html) . Telegraph . Archived from the original (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8955936/Daisy-Lowe-on-Terry-Richardson-He-just-exudes-this-sexual-energy.html) on March 4, 2016 . Retrieved June 5, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Phong Luu. "Charlotte Free defends Terry Richardson's naked photoshoots" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9885748/Charlotte-Free-defends-Terry-Richardsons-naked-photoshoots.html) . Telegraph . Retrieved June 5, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Riley-Smith, Ben; Allen, Nick (October 23, 2017). "Exclusive: Terry Richardson banned from working with Vogue and other leading mags, leaked email shows" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/10/23/exclusive-terry-richardson-banned-working-vogue-leading-mags/) . The Telegraph . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20171024062220/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/10/23/exclusive-terry-richardson-banned-working-vogue-leading-mags/) from the original on October 24, 2017 . Retrieved May 13, 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Wet Paint: Terry Richardson Gets Slammed in Dad's Secret Memoir, Team Gallery Founder Disappears, & More Art-World Gossip" (https://news.artnet.com/art-world/wet-paint-terry-richardson-dad-memoir-1919649) . Artnet News . October 30, 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201101012246/https://news.artnet.com/art-world/wet-paint-terry-richardson-dad-memoir-1919649) from the original on November 1, 2020. ^ Jump up to: a b c LaBruce, Bruce (1998). "Terry Richardson" (http://www.indexmagazine.com/interviews/terry_richardson.shtml) . Index Magazine (/wiki/Index_Magazine) . Retrieved February 15, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Horyn, Cathy (December 12, 2005). "Bob Richardson, 77, Who Energized Fashion Photography, Dies" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/12/12/arts/12richardson.html?_r=0) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved February 15, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Sischy, Ingrid (April 10, 1995). "The World of Fashion: Exposure" (http://www.newyorker.com/archive/1995/04/10/1995_04_10_044_TNY_CARDS_000371291) . The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) . Retrieved August 30, 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Zahm, Olivier. "Terry Richardson's Life Story Episode 1" (http://purple.fr/magazine/fw-2008-issue-10/terry-richardsons-life-story-episode-1/) . Purple Diary . Retrieved October 24, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Nicola Formichetti as Me" (http://www.terrysdiary.com/post/17316631500/nicola-formichetti-as-me) . (February 9, 2012). Terry Richardson's Diary. Retrieved February 27, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Blasberg, Derek (October 8, 2006). "Punk Attitude". Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Bio" (http://www.terryrichardson.com/bio.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120115155456/http://www.terryrichardson.com/bio.html) January 15, 2012, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . TerryRichardson.com. Retrieved December 31, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f O'Hagan, Sean (October 16, 2004). "Good clean fun?" (https://www.theguardian.com/film/2004/oct/17/photography.art) . The Observer (/wiki/The_Observer) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20131207214407/https://www.theguardian.com/film/2004/oct/17/photography.art) from the original on December 7, 2013 . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Gracey, Lorraine (January 1999). "Will the real Terry Richardson please stand up?". Photo District News (/wiki/Photo_District_News) . ^ Jump up to: a b c Walters, Helen (January 2000). "Broken glamour". Creative Review (/wiki/Creative_Review) . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Callender, Cat (January 27, 2002). "Living Review Fashion — Fully exposed". The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Duncan (March 6, 2007). "Diesel Global Warming Ready" (http://theinspirationroom.com/daily/2007/diesel-global-warming-ready/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201112023702/https://theinspirationroom.com/daily/2007/diesel-global-warming-ready/) November 12, 2020, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . The Inspiration Room. Retrieved October 20, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Boardman, Mickey (October 1, 2011). "Mr. Mickey's Paris Fashion Week in Pictures: Part 1" (http://www.papermag.com/2011/10/mr_mickeys_paris_fashion_week_1.php) . Paper (/wiki/Paper_(magazine)) . Retrieved October 20, 2011. ^ Jump up to: a b "Terry Richardson – Terrywood" (http://oh-wow.com/terry-richardson/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120408173836/http://oh-wow.com/terry-richardson/) April 8, 2012, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . (December 14, 2011). OHWOW (/wiki/OHWOW) Press Release. Retrieved March 3, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c Eaton, Phoebe (September 20, 2004). "Terry Richardson's Dark Room" (https://observer.com/2004/09/terry-richardsons-dark-room/) . Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110822082407/https://observer.com/2004/09/terry-richardsons-dark-room/) from the original on August 22, 2011 . Retrieved April 11, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Arty Nelson. "It's Terry's World and You're Just Afraid of It" (http://www.laweekly.com/2004-10-28/art-books/it-s-terry-s-world-and-you-re-just-afraid-of-it/) . LA Weekly . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Max Henry. "Gotham Dispatch" (http://www.artnet.com/Magazine/reviews/henry/henry9-22-00.asp) . Artnet . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Amy M. Spindler (March 21, 1999). "Style" (https://www.nytimes.com/1999/03/21/magazine/style-footnotes.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Out with Mary" (http://www.artnet.com/Magazine/people/Mbarone/barone12-13-00.asp) . Artnet . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Guy Trebay (September 12, 2004). "Fashion Diary; What Fashion Owes to XXX" (https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C01EED81530F931A2575AC0A9629C8B63&action=click&module=Search®ion=searchResults%230&version=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fquery.nytimes.com%2Fsearch%2Fsitesearch%2F%23%2Fterry%2Brichardson%2Ffrom20030101to20050101%2F) . The New York Times . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Rebecca Schoenkopf. "Radness is Happening" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140522032329/http://www.ocweekly.com/2005-02-17/culture/radness-is-happening/) . OC Weekly . Archived from the original (http://www.ocweekly.com/2005-02-17/culture/radness-is-happening/) on May 22, 2014 . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Bee-Shyuan Chang. "Mom, Dad, and Terry" (http://www.style.com/peopleparties/parties/scoop/newyork-111411_Terry_Richardson_Mom_Dad/) . Style . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Terry Richardson's Mom and Dad in New York" (https://www.vice.com/read/terry-richardson-s-mom-and-dad-in-new-york) . VICE. November 11, 2011 . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) " (http://slamxhype.com/art-design/hong-kong-terry-richardson-exhibition-at-art-hong-kong-2011/) "Hong Kong" Terry Richardson Exhibition at Art Hong Kong 2011" (http://slamxhype.com/art-design/hong-kong-terry-richardson-exhibition-at-art-hong-kong-2011/) . Slam x Hype . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-times_32-0) Laura M. Holson (March 2, 2012). "The Naughty Knave of Fashion's Court" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/04/fashion/terry-richardsons-photographs-provoke-and-reveal.html?pagewanted=all&_r=1&) . The New York Times . Retrieved May 21, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) gigiriva (November 24, 2008). "The best model in a music video" (http://www.bellazon.com/main/index.php?showtopic=18390&st=100) . Bellazon. Retrieved October 17, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-34) Aquino, Tara (June 15, 2012). "Interview: Sky Ferreira Talks 'Red Lips', Terry Richardson and Being Seen As A Socialite" (http://www.complex.com/music/2012/06/interview-sky-ferreira-talks-red-lips-terry-richardson-socialite) . Complex (/wiki/Complex_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 11, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-35) MTV News (December 1, 2010). "30 Seconds To Mars's 'Hurricane' Video: The References" (http://newsroom.mtv.com/2010/12/01/30-seconds-to-mars-hurricane-video-references/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20131112231321/http://newsroom.mtv.com/2010/12/01/30-seconds-to-mars-hurricane-video-references/) November 12, 2013, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . MTV (/wiki/MTV) . Retrieved April 20, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-36) Scarborough, Joey and Bill Hutchinson (August 30, 2013). "Beyoncé rides Coney Island Cyclone for music video shoot directed by Terry Richardson" (http://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/brooklyn/beyonce-rides-coney-island-cyclone-article-1.1441216) . Daily News (/wiki/Daily_News_(New_York)) . Retrieved September 6, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-nymag_37-0) Garnett, Daisy (August 27, 2001). "Sure Shot" (https://nymag.com/shopping/articles/fallfashion2001/richardson2.htm) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . Vol. 34, no. 33. pp. 116–122. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20060527181540/https://nymag.com/shopping/articles/fallfashion2001/richardson2.htm) from the original on May 27, 2006 . Retrieved September 22, 2010 . ^ Jump up to: a b Holson, Laura M. (March 2, 2012). "The Naughty Knave of Fashion's Court" (https://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/04/fashion/terry-richardsons-photographs-provoke-and-reveal.html?_r=2&scp=1&sq=Terry%20Richardson&st=cse) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved March 4, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-39) T., Edward (2014). "How to Shoot like Terry Richardson: Part 1" (http://ilovehatephoto.com/2014/07/02/how-to-shoot-like-terry-richardson-part-1-the-look/) . iLHP (/w/index.php?title=ILHP&action=edit&redlink=1) . Retrieved November 19, 2014 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-40) Staff (November 15, 2011). "Terry Richardson kissing Chloe Sevigny as Terry Richardson" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140830080426/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/videos/TMG8891425/Terry-Richardson-kissing-Chloe-Sevigny-as-Terry-Richardson.html) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . Archived from the original (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/videos/TMG8891425/Terry-Richardson-kissing-Chloe-Sevigny-as-Terry-Richardson.html) on August 30, 2014 . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) Harding, Leeta (2001). "Helmut Newton" (http://www.indexmagazine.com/interviews/helmut_newton.shtml) . Index Magazine (/wiki/Index_Magazine) . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) Benson, Richard (October 28, 2017). "How Terry Richardson created porn 'chic' and moulded the look of an era" (https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2017/oct/28/terry-richardson-porn-chic-moulded-look-era-fashion-industry-photographer) . Theguardian.com . Retrieved October 29, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Sundac, Marta (December 20, 2013). "Terry Richardson Shoots A$AP Rocky for (http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/12/30/terry-richardson-shoots-asap-rocky-for-purple-magazine/) Purple magazine" (http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/12/30/terry-richardson-shoots-asap-rocky-for-purple-magazine/) . HighSnobiety . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Fischer, David (November 7, 2013). "Gisele Bündchen & Daft Punk by Terry Richardson for (http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/11/07/gisele-bundchen-daft-punk-terry-richardson-wsj-magazine/) WSJ. Magazine – Super Troopers" (http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/11/07/gisele-bundchen-daft-punk-terry-richardson-wsj-magazine/) . HighSnobiety . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Churchill, Maude (September 17, 2013). "GQ Style UK Pharrell Williams Editorial Shot by Terry Richardson" (http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/09/17/gq-style-uk-pharrell-williams-editorial-shot-by-terry-richardson/) . HighSnobiety . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-46) Smylie, Jack (February 20, 2014). "Terry Richardson takes a break from coercing teens to get naked, photographs Lebron James" (http://slamxhype.com/art-design/terry-richardson-takes-break-coercing-teens-get-naked-photographs-lebron-james/) . SlamXHype . Retrieved May 13, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Garnett, Daisy (August 27, 2001). "Sure Shot" (http://nymag.com/shopping/articles/fallfashion2001/richardson2.htm) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . Retrieved December 27, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-48) Sauers, Jenna. "Terry Richardson Has A New Girlfriend, And She Works In Politics" (https://jezebel.com/5823011/terry-richardson-has-a-new-girlfriend-and-she-works-in-politics) . Jezebel . Retrieved February 12, 2018 . The couple has been together since the spring, which is shortly after Richardson and his ex-fiancée, Jen Brill, broke up. ^ (#cite_ref-49) Vagianos, Alanna (December 23, 2013). "Audrey Gelman On Terry Richardson: Lena Dunham And I 'Both Have Regrets' (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/12/23/lena-dunham-terry-richardson-lena-dunham_n_4493361.html) " (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/12/23/lena-dunham-terry-richardson-lena-dunham_n_4493361.html) . Huffington Post . Retrieved February 12, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Beusman, Callie. "Glaring Omissions From New York Magazine's Terry Richardson Story" (https://jezebel.com/glaring-omissions-from-new-york-magazines-terry-richard-1592267359) . Jezebel . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140619085935/https://jezebel.com/glaring-omissions-from-new-york-magazines-terry-richard-1592267359) from the original on June 19, 2014 . Retrieved October 25, 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Terry Richardson On Fatherhood and His New Photo Book, 'Skinny' (http://www.papermag.com/terry-richardson-skinny-photo-book-1992418978.html) " (http://www.papermag.com/terry-richardson-skinny-photo-book-1992418978.html) . PAPERMAG . August 30, 2016 . Retrieved October 25, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Terry Richardson Has Officially Spawned" (http://nymag.com/thecut/2016/03/terry-richardson-has-officially-spawned.html) . The Cut . Retrieved March 23, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) "Terry Richardson on Instagram: "Watching this woman rock it through an insane delivery and push out our babies was the most intense, inspiring, exhilerating, and humbling…" (https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/s/instagram/BDQgi0ZsI3z) " (https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/s/instagram/BDQgi0ZsI3z) . Instagram . Archived from the original (https://www.instagram.com/p/BDQgi0ZsI3z/) on December 26, 2021 . Retrieved March 23, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) "Inside Terry Richardson and Alex Bolotow's Desert Wedding" (http://www.townandcountrymag.com/the-scene/weddings/a12203357/terry-richardson-alex-bolotow-wedding-pictures/) . Town and Country . September 12, 2017 . Retrieved October 24, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Munar, Jonathan (November 11, 2010). "A Conversation with RxArt President and Founder, Diane Brown" (http://blog.art21.org/2010/11/11/a-conversation-with-rxart-president-and-founder-diane-brown/#.UznrUvldXwg) . Art21 Magazine . Retrieved May 14, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) Bernard, Katherine (September 22, 2011). "Party between the lines" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140515014433/http://www.vogue.com/parties/chanel-beaut-hosts-a-benefit-for-rxart/) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/parties/chanel-beaut-hosts-a-benefit-for-rxart/) on May 15, 2014 . Retrieved May 14, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Staff (November 2010). "Ten Years of RxArt" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140515050432/http://www.wmagazine.com/parties/2010/11/art_directors_club_party_ss-2/photos/) . W (/wiki/W_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.wmagazine.com/parties/2010/11/art_directors_club_party_ss-2/photos/) on May 15, 2014 . Retrieved May 14, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Ellis-Petersen, Hannah (October 24, 2017). "Fashion brands drop Terry Richardson over allegations of abuse on shoots" (https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2017/oct/24/terry-richardson-photographer-dropped-fashion-brands-allegations) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved October 24, 2017 . Lurid stories about Richardson's behaviour have circulated since 2001. ^ (#cite_ref-59) Jamie Peck (June 17, 2014). "Take it from someone he abused: Terry Richardson is a predator with a camera" (https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2014/jun/17/terry-richardson-new-york-magazine-model) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140618111942/https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2014/jun/17/terry-richardson-new-york-magazine-model) from the original on June 18, 2014 . Retrieved April 11, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) Amanda Holpuch (March 14, 2014). "Terry Richardson denies allegations of sexual misconduct with models" (https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2014/mar/14/terry-richardson-denies-sexual-misconduct-models) . the Guardian . Retrieved April 11, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-61) Minerva Portillo, the Spanish victim of Terry Richardson (http://www.lavanguardia.com/vida/20171112/432819221236/minerva-portillo-la-victima-espanola-de-terry-richardson.html) . La Vanguardia . ^ (#cite_ref-MarcJacobs_62-0) Ramirez, Elva (March 23, 2010). "Marc Jacobs on Terry Richardson: 'He's Not Ill-Spirited'"" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100328171626/https://blogs.wsj.com/speakeasy/2010/03/23/marc-jacobs-on-terry-richardson-hes-not-ill-spirited/) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . Archived from the original (https://blogs.wsj.com/speakeasy/2010/03/23/marc-jacobs-on-terry-richardson-hes-not-ill-spirited/) on March 28, 2010 . Retrieved April 22, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) Amy Odell. " (https://nymag.com/thecut/2010/03/everyone_in_fashion_knows_terr.html) 'Everyone in Fashion Knows Terry Richardson Messes Around With the Girls He Photographs' (https://nymag.com/thecut/2010/03/everyone_in_fashion_knows_terr.html) " (https://nymag.com/thecut/2010/03/everyone_in_fashion_knows_terr.html) . New York Magazine . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181114021353/https://www.thecut.com/2010/03/everyone_in_fashion_knows_terr.html) from the original on November 14, 2018 . Retrieved June 5, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Feldman, Jamie (October 24, 2017). "Condé Nast Stops Working With Terry Richardson" (https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/terry-richardson-conde-nast_us_59ef3c58e4b0d14acdcc7a73) . Huffington Post . Retrieved October 24, 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Fashion Photographer Terry Richardson Banned from Condé Nast" (https://www.artforum.com/news/id=71849) . Artforum Magazine . October 24, 2017 . Retrieved October 24, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-FoxNews_66-0) Piazza, Jo (March 25, 2010). "Sexual Misconduct by Fashion Photographers Is Par for the Industry, Models Say" (http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2010/03/25/lisa-alexander-young-models-sex-harass-terry-richardson/) . Fox News (/wiki/Fox_News_Channel) . Retrieved August 9, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-67) Phong Luu. "Daisy Lowe on Terry Richardson: 'He just exudes this sexual energy' (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304125520/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8955936/Daisy-Lowe-on-Terry-Richardson-He-just-exudes-this-sexual-energy.html) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304125520/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8955936/Daisy-Lowe-on-Terry-Richardson-He-just-exudes-this-sexual-energy.html) . Telegraph . Archived from the original (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8955936/Daisy-Lowe-on-Terry-Richardson-He-just-exudes-this-sexual-energy.html) on March 4, 2016 . Retrieved June 5, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Phong Luu. "Charlotte Free defends Terry Richardson's naked photoshoots" (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9885748/Charlotte-Free-defends-Terry-Richardsons-naked-photoshoots.html) . Telegraph . Retrieved June 5, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Terry Richardson Accused of Sexually Abusing Model on Camera in New Lawsuit" (https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/culture-news/terry-richardson-lawsuit-sexual-assault-1234894737/) . Rolling Stone. External links Wikimedia Commons has media related to Terry Richardson (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Terry_Richardson) . Official website (https://www.terryrichardson.com/) Terry Richardson (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/photographers/terry-richardson/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Film (/wiki/Portal:Film) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/458989/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000116815042) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/120510683) National Norway (https://authority.bibsys.no/authority/rest/authorities/html/4098253) France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14611722f) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb14611722f) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/123688523) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007411866005171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/nb91006401) Sweden (https://libris.kb.se/1zcgks4k5p0xxc1) Czech Republic (https://aleph.nkp.cz/F/?func=find-c&local_base=aut&ccl_term=ica=xx0056618&CON_LNG=ENG) Netherlands (http://data.bibliotheken.nl/id/thes/p238296253) Artists MusicBrainz (https://musicbrainz.org/artist/2ca13888-a852-4d28-b788-8ba396f09652) Photographers' Identities (https://pic.nypl.org/constituents/18456) RKD Artists (https://rkd.nl/en/explore/artists/393848) ULAN (https://www.getty.edu/vow/ULANFullDisplay?find=&role=&nation=&subjectid=500125005) Other IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/085182796) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐r4qt6 Cached time: 20240720164007 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.989 seconds Real time usage: 1.235 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 6969/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 131592/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 11144/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 25/100 Expensive parser function count: 28/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 238127/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.604/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 10261319/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1134.383 1 -total 38.79% 440.029 1 Template:Reflist 23.43% 265.734 1 Template:Infobox_person 17.68% 200.549 25 Template:Cite_news 10.02% 113.691 21 Template:Pluralize_from_text 9.39% 106.468 23 Template:Cite_web 8.45% 95.912 1 Template:Authority_control 7.48% 84.831 2 Template:Plainlist 7.24% 82.086 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 6.83% 77.512 2 Template:Marriage Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1316127-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720164007 and revision id 1233828652. 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Formal Western dress code for day attire Not to be confused with mourning dress (/wiki/Mourning_dress) . Japanese emperor (/wiki/Japanese_emperor) Hirohito (/wiki/Hirohito) , U.S. president (/wiki/U.S._president) Ronald Reagan (/wiki/Ronald_Reagan) and his wife Nancy (/wiki/Nancy_Reagan) in 1983, both men in morning coats (/wiki/Morning_coat) with formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) , known as morning dress Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Morning dress , also known as formal day dress , is the formal (/wiki/Formal_attire) Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) for day attire (/wiki/Day_wear_(disambiguation)) , [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) consisting chiefly of a morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) , waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) , and formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) for men, and an appropriate gown (/wiki/Gown) for women. Men may also wear a popular variant, where all parts (morning coat or waistcoat, and trousers) are the same colour and material, often grey, and usually called "morning suit" or "morning grey" to distinguish it; [2] (#cite_note-2) considered properly appropriate only to festive functions, [3] (#cite_note-3) such as summer weddings and horse races (/wiki/Horse_race) , [4] (#cite_note-The_Suit-4) [5] (#cite_note-Weidenfeld_&_Nicolson-5) which consequently makes it slightly less formal. The correct hat would be a formal top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) , or if on less spacious audience settings, optionally a collapsible equivalent opera hat (/wiki/Opera_hat) . Debrett's (/wiki/Debrett%27s) states, that morning dress should not be specified as the dress code for events starting after 6 p.m. If a formal event will commence at or after 6 p.m., a white tie (/wiki/White_tie) should be specified instead. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [6] (#cite_note-6) The semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal) daytime counterpart of this code is the black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) . [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) Morning dress is generally restricted to certain weddings, royal, government, or municipal audiences (/wiki/Audience) , and social season (/wiki/Season_(society)) events, e.g. , horse races. It may also be seen sometimes worn at church services (/wiki/Church_service) , as well as fraternal orders (/wiki/Fraternal_order) , and gentlemen's clubs (/wiki/Gentlemen%27s_club) . History [ edit ] This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Morning_dress) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Morning dress" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Morning+dress%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Morning+dress%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Morning+dress%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Morning+dress%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Morning+dress%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Morning+dress%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( December 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Giuseppe Verdi (/wiki/Giuseppe_Verdi) (1813–1901) in 1844, wearing a double-breasted cutaway Caricature of Henry Herbert, 4th Earl of Carnarvon (/wiki/Henry_Herbert,_4th_Earl_of_Carnarvon) in Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(UK_magazine)) , 11 September 1869 Morning dress fashion (middle), as opposed to frock coats (/wiki/Frock_coat) (left and right) (1848) The name originated from the practice of gentlemen in the 19th century riding a horse in the morning with a cutaway front, single-breasted morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) . [9] (#cite_note-9) The modern 20th-century morning dress was originally a more casual form of half dress, but as the 19th century progressed, it gradually became acceptable to wear it in more formal situations instead of a frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) . In the Edwardian era, it took over in popularity from the frock coat as the standard daytime form of men's full dress. When it was regarded as a more casual coat, it was common to see it made with step collars (notched lapels (/wiki/Lapel) in American English), but as it took over from the frock coat in formality, it began to be made with the more formal pointed lapels (peaked lapels in American English). Composition [ edit ] See also: Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Morning dress consists of: a morning coat (the morning cut of tailcoat), now always single breasted with link closure (as on some dinner jackets) or one button (or very rarely two) and with pointed lapels (/wiki/Lapel) , may include silk piping on the edges of the coat and lapels (and cuffs on older models with turnup coat sleeves). a waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) , which matches the material of the coat. a pair of formal striped or checked trousers (/wiki/Spongebag_trousers) worn with braces (/wiki/Braces_(clothing)) . a shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) : either a turndown collar is worn (white detachable (/wiki/Detachable_collar) , fastened by collar studs (/wiki/Collar_stud) ; or attached) with a tie (/wiki/Necktie) , in which case the shirt has double cuffs (/wiki/French_cuff) . otherwise, a high detachable wing collar is worn with a double-cuffed shirt; this combination is sometimes accompanied now by a formal Ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) , as opposed to a day cravat which is different. This is a more formal option most commonly seen at weddings; a plain or patterned silk handkerchief (/wiki/Handkerchief) or pocket square may be worn; it is folded and inserted into the front breast pocket of the morning coat. black Oxford shoes (/wiki/Oxford_shoe) or dress boots (/wiki/Dress_boot) , or boots with a horse riding connection, such as George or Chelsea boot, or galosh (/wiki/Galosh) -top dress boots; worn with plain dark socks (or another colour if they cannot be seen). If the trouser cloth matches the coat, the ensemble becomes a morning suit. The waistcoat may also match, or not (an "odd waistcoat"). Morning suits will sometimes be a middle-tone grey. Morning suits, especially the lighter-toned ones, are considered slightly less formal than morning coat ensembles. The following can optionally be worn or carried with morning dress: a top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) , either classic silk plush, or a modern Melusine fur (replacement for silk plush, as it is no longer in mainstream manufacture). Alternatively, a top hat made of fur felt or wool felt, is another common option. gloves (/wiki/Gloves) of suede (/wiki/Suede) , chamois (/wiki/Chamois) , or kid (/wiki/Kidskin) leather; the most traditional colour is lemon or grey grey or white spats (/wiki/Spat_(footwear)) a cane or umbrella a pocket watch (/wiki/Pocket_watch) on the waistcoat rather than at the lapel, or wrist watch (/wiki/Wrist_watch) a boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) Considered slightly less formal by some, a morning suit can be worn in variant sometimes referred to as "morning grey dress", which has mid-grey matching morning coat, waistcoat, and trousers (all cut the same as above); being more relaxed, this is a traditional option for events in less formal settings such as Royal Ascot (/wiki/Royal_Ascot) , and is now often worn to weddings as well. Morning coat [ edit ] The modern morning coat is single-breasted and usually has peaked lapels. [10] (#cite_note-:1-10) It is usually closed with a single button [10] (#cite_note-:1-10) but may have a link-front closure instead. [11] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-11) [12] (#cite_note-A_Gentleman's_Wardrobe:_Classic_Clo-12) It is traditionally in either black or Oxford grey [13] (#cite_note-Emily_Post's_Etiquette-13) [14] (#cite_note-:4-14) herringbone (/wiki/Herringbone_(cloth)) wool (/wiki/Wool) , [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) which should not be too heavy a weight, [14] (#cite_note-:4-14) with curved front edges sloping back into tails [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [12] (#cite_note-A_Gentleman's_Wardrobe:_Classic_Clo-12) of knee length. [15] (#cite_note-15) The coat may feature ribbon braiding around the edges of the collar, lapels, and down around the tails; [16] (#cite_note-Pen_&_Sword_Books_Ltd-16) it may also be present on the hook vent, breast pocket, and sleeves. [17] (#cite_note-Morning_Dress_Guide-17) Nicholas Storey advises that braiding should be avoided for very formal morning wear. [18] (#cite_note-History_of_Men's_Fashion:_What_the-18) Waistcoat [ edit ] A black morning coat with matching black waistcoat is the most formal option, [19] (#cite_note-19) [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) being worn for Court (/wiki/Royal_court) , [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) funerals (/wiki/Funeral) , [21] (#cite_note-21) memorial services (/wiki/Funeral#Memorial_services) , [22] (#cite_note-22) civic dress [23] (#cite_note-23) and diplomatic dress (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) (replacing or supplementing Court Dress (/wiki/Court_Dress) ), with academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress) , or in government use in America. At social or festive occasions, such as horse races and weddings (/wiki/Wedding) , a contrasting waistcoat is usually worn. The most traditional colours are dove grey, [24] (#cite_note-24) light grey [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) (including pearl grey [13] (#cite_note-Emily_Post's_Etiquette-13) [4] (#cite_note-The_Suit-4) ), buff (/wiki/Buff_(colour)) [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) or camel (/wiki/Camel_(color)) [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) (both yellowish tan colours), duck-egg blue, [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) and occasionally white. [27] (#cite_note-ReferenceB-27) [28] (#cite_note-flusser2002dressing-28) There has been a tendency towards 'fancy' waistcoats [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) of multicoloured and embroidered (/wiki/Embroidery) materials such as brocade, [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) especially at weddings, [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) although brightly coloured waistcoats may be considered garish. [29] (#cite_note-29) Other colours sold by traditional English tailors include pastels such as powder blue (/wiki/Powder_blue) , pale pink (/wiki/Pink) , pale green, and other pastels. [30] (#cite_note-30) Generally, traditional waistcoats are made from linen (/wiki/Linen) , silk (/wiki/Silk) , [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) or wool (/wiki/Wool) . [27] (#cite_note-ReferenceB-27) Spanish man-about-town Victor Peñasco in morning suit, with waistcoat with shawl collar, 1912 Waistcoats may be either single-breasted (/wiki/Single-breasted) , with or without lapels (/wiki/Lapel) , or double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) with lapels. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Single-breasted models with lapels usually feature a step collar (/wiki/Lapel) and are worn with the bottom button undone, whilst double-breasted models commonly have either a shawl collar or a peak lapel and are worn fully buttoned. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) In either case, Debrett's advise against wearing backless waistcoats [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) because they do not look as smart as real ones. [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) Sometimes a white slip is worn, which is a strip of fabric buttoned to the inside top of the waistcoat [18] (#cite_note-History_of_Men's_Fashion:_What_the-18) to simulate the effect of a paler under-waistcoat, [31] (#cite_note-31) though the actual wearing of two waistcoats was obsolete even for the late Victorians (/wiki/Victorian_era) . Trousers [ edit ] Main article: Formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Hamide Ayşe Sultan (/wiki/Hamide_Ay%C5%9Fe_Sultan) (1887–1960) with her husband in morning coat and formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) The formal ('spongebag') trousers (/wiki/Spongebag_trousers) worn with it are either 'cashmere' striped, or black and white checked (/wiki/Houndstooth) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) should not have turn-ups (/wiki/Cuff) ( cuffs in American English), [32] (#cite_note-32) and have either flat-fronts or one to two forward pleats to each leg. [33] (#cite_note-:3-33) Braces (/wiki/Suspenders) ( suspenders in American English) may be worn [33] (#cite_note-:3-33) to prevent the waistband from appearing beneath the waistcoat if required. Belts (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) should not be worn with morning dress. [34] (#cite_note-34) Less common (and less formal) alternatives to striped trousers are houndstooth (/wiki/Houndstooth) check, [35] (#cite_note-35) [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) Prince of Wales check, [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) and grey flannel trousers, [17] (#cite_note-Morning_Dress_Guide-17) amongst others. Shirt [ edit ] Since the Second World War (/wiki/World_War_II) , in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) and Commonwealth Realms (/wiki/Commonwealth_realm) , the traditional shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) for morning dress has been a white or light-coloured shirt with double cuffs (/wiki/Cuff) (fastened with cufflinks (/wiki/Cufflink) ) and a plain white stiff turn-down collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) (often of the cutaway (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) variety [36] (#cite_note-ReferenceC-36) ) worn with a long tie (/wiki/Necktie) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) A detachable collar (/wiki/Detachable_collar) is no longer considered to be necessary and is very formal by modern standards. [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) Alternatively, a wing collar (/wiki/Collar_(clothing)) may be worn; the combination of long tie and wing collar is very dated, so these are instead paired with an ascot. [12] (#cite_note-A_Gentleman's_Wardrobe:_Classic_Clo-12) [37] (#cite_note-ReferenceD-37) Unfortunately, this combination has acquired negative connotations because most dress hire companies have used pre-tied or incorrect patterns for many years, which has caused the configuration to be seen as an inferior or hired look. Consequently, Debrett's (and the late Hardy Amies (/wiki/Hardy_Amies) ) consider the wing collar and ascot to be inappropriate for weddings or morning dress, [38] (#cite_note-38) reserving wing collars for white tie (/wiki/White_tie) . [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-Debrett's_Handbook-40) [41] (#cite_note-ReferenceE-41) [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) If a wing collar is worn, the collar should be of the starched, detachable, variety and also include starched single cuffs (secured with cufflinks) all in white. This is because, in the past, a starched stiff-fronted shirt was worn with starched cuffs and a starched detachable wing collar, worn with cufflinks and shirt studs (/wiki/Shirt_stud) ; it is essentially the same as a plain-fronted (rather than Marcella (/wiki/Piqu%C3%A9_(weaving)) ) full evening dress (/wiki/White_tie) shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) . [36] (#cite_note-ReferenceC-36) Contemporary shirts often do not have a detachable collar at all which, provided they have the same height and stiffness as the detachable type, are considered to be an acceptable alternative. [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) The most formal colour for a shirt is white. Alternatively, a coloured or striped shirt with a contrasting white ("Winchester") collar and (optionally) white cuffs may be worn. Traditional formal shirtings are usually light-coloured [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) and may include cream, blue (such as Wedgwood blue), pink, [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) lavender, peach, salmon, yellow, or pastel green. [42] (#cite_note-42) Morning dress shirts (other than the collar) are usually solid in colour [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) or have thin vertical stripes [37] (#cite_note-ReferenceD-37) but may have a slightly bolder pattern such as a houndstooth or glencheck (/wiki/Glen_plaid) . [43] (#cite_note-43) Neck wear [ edit ] Previously, a grey or (if at a funeral) a black necktie (/wiki/Necktie) was obligatory. Now all colours are worn; in many clubs and societies the club tie is acceptable to distinguish members from guests at formal lunches and breakfasts. The original silver Macclesfield design (a small check) is still used particularly with cravats (/wiki/Ascot_tie) , and is often called a wedding tie . Wearing a silver-grey silk tie is the usual practice at royal [5] (#cite_note-Weidenfeld_&_Nicolson-5) and other formal events. [27] (#cite_note-ReferenceB-27) [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) Although there is no longer a strict rule governing the colour and pattern of ties that are worn to weddings these days, garish options are inadvisable. [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) The English etiquette authority, Debrett's (/wiki/Debrett%27s) , dictate that smart woven silk ties are preferred to cravats (/wiki/Ascot_tie) [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) although stocks (/wiki/Stock_tie) and cravats may be worn as an alternative. [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) The American etiquette authority, The Emily Post Institute (/wiki/The_Emily_Post_Institute) , states that either a tie or a dress ascot may be worn with a morning coat. [13] (#cite_note-Emily_Post's_Etiquette-13) If a tie is worn, Debrett's advise men to tie it with either a four-in-hand or half-Windsor rather than a Windsor knot. [44] (#cite_note-44) If worn, cravats may be tied in either a formal dress knot (Ascot knot) which is secured with a cravat pin [12] (#cite_note-A_Gentleman's_Wardrobe:_Classic_Clo-12) or a slightly less formal ruched knot which resembles a four-in-hand tie. A wing collar and cravat may be worn with a black coat but not with a grey one. [11] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-11) Cravats have been proscribed in the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot since 2012 [45] (#cite_note-ascot.co.uk-45) and should therefore be treated with caution in any context in the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms. Bow ties (/wiki/Bow_tie) may be worn as an alternative to the necktie. Although there are photographs of the Duke of Windsor (/wiki/Duke_of_Windsor) and Sir Winston Churchill (/wiki/Sir_Winston_Churchill) wearing bow ties with morning dress, and Debrett's does not advise against the wearing of one, it is not expressly provided as an option by Debrett's. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) Bow ties have been proscribed in the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot since 2019 and should therefore be treated with caution in the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms. [46] (#cite_note-46) Some style authorities, including Bernhard Roetzel (/wiki/Bernhard_Roetzel) and Nicholas Antongiavanni (/wiki/Michael_Anton) , advise against the wearing of bow ties with morning dress. [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) [11] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-11) Others, such as Nicholas Storey, provide that bow ties may be worn so long as they are obviously not an evening bow tie. [16] (#cite_note-Pen_&_Sword_Books_Ltd-16) Footwear [ edit ] Shoes should be of the traditional, highly polished black plain cap-toe Oxford (/wiki/Oxford_shoe) type [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [10] (#cite_note-:1-10) without brogueing (/wiki/Brogues) [47] (#cite_note-ReferenceF-47) but may include a single line of tooling across the toe cap. [48] (#cite_note-ReferenceG-48) [49] (#cite_note-49) The shoes should not be patent leather (/wiki/Patent_leather) , [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) which is now reserved for evening formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) . [40] (#cite_note-Debrett's_Handbook-40) [41] (#cite_note-ReferenceE-41) Although it may be acceptable to wear 'smart-slip on shoes' [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) and monkstraps (/wiki/Monk_shoe) , [25] (#cite_note-:6-25) it is not ideal to wear either loafers (/wiki/Slip-on_shoe) [10] (#cite_note-:1-10) or open-laced shoes, such as derby shoes (/wiki/Derby_shoe) (or bluchers in American English). [47] (#cite_note-ReferenceF-47) In the Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_era) and Edwardian (/wiki/Edwardian_era) era button boots (/wiki/Button_boot) [50] (#cite_note-50) and Oxford boots (/wiki/Oxford_boot) [48] (#cite_note-ReferenceG-48) [51] (#cite_note-51) were worn and these can be correctly worn with morning dress today. When worn at equestrian (/wiki/Equestrianism) events, boots of equestrian (/wiki/Equestrianism) origin such as jodhpur boots (/wiki/Jodhpur_boot) , George boots (/w/index.php?title=George_boot&action=edit&redlink=1) and Chelsea boots (/wiki/Chelsea_boot) are also acceptable. Socks should be black or grey. [26] (#cite_note-:2-26) Spats were once frequently seen with morning dress, [5] (#cite_note-Weidenfeld_&_Nicolson-5) but are now rarely worn and, by 1939, the practise of wearing them was considered to be almost extinct. [52] (#cite_note-52) Accessories [ edit ] Headgear [ edit ] A. Carnegie (/wiki/A._Carnegie) and Lord Weardale (/wiki/Lord_Weardale) . While the top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) would be considered the standard, alternatives occur; here a bowler hat (/wiki/Bowler_hat) . In the Commonwealth of Nations (/wiki/Commonwealth_of_Nations) , traditional black, or grey (less formal, but becoming more widely accepted), top hats are considered an optional accessory for weddings. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [53] (#cite_note-53) However, hats remain compulsory in the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot. [54] (#cite_note-54) [45] (#cite_note-ascot.co.uk-45) Pocket square [ edit ] A pocket square (/wiki/Handkerchief) should always be worn with morning dress [ citation needed ] . They may be made from linen (/wiki/Linen) , cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , or silk (/wiki/Silk) . Whilst a simple white linen square with rolled edges is classic, they may instead be a solid colour or patterned and should always complement the neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) . However, although it is very common practice in wedding parties, many style authorities do not recommend wearing a matching (i.e., identical) pocket square and tie, as it tends to look contrived, draws attention away from the wearer's face, and displays sartorial uncertainty. Pocket squares with a solid colour should generally be paired with a patterned tie (and vice versa) and should not share the same base colour. In other words, the solid color item should be in a color that is not the dominant color of the other. It may be puffed or folded into a square, single-point, or multi-pointed style folds. Puffed pocket squares work well with softer materials such as silk; other folds tend to hold their shape better when more structured materials such as linen are used. Decorations [ edit ] The wearing of decorations (/wiki/Order_(honour)) , orders (/wiki/Order_(honour)) , and medals (/wiki/Medal) is uncommon with morning dress. An invitation will generally indicate whether or not they should be worn and, in the United Kingdom and Commonwealth realms, are more common for religious services or public functions of official significance. Up to four stars, one neck badge, and full-size medals should be worn with morning dress (mirroring the practices observed on day military uniforms); when a neck badge and star are worn together, they must be of different orders. [55] (#cite_note-55) Etiquette: "morning dress" [ edit ] Men in morning dress for a wedding (/wiki/Wedding) (1929) Further information: Formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) Men wear morning dress when members of a wedding party. In common with court dress (/wiki/Court_dress) , mess dress (/wiki/Mess_dress) , and white tie (/wiki/White_tie) , morning dress is for prestigious and important social occasions. Despite its name, morning dress may be worn to afternoon social events before five o'clock, but not to events beginning after six o'clock in the evening; the term "morning" is best understood as "daylight". In Europe, the groom sets the sartorial tone: the guests may wear morning dress if he does. Equivalents for men [ edit ] Following the etiquette of formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) , morning dress being its civilian day wear, there are several equivalents. White tie (/wiki/White_tie) is the correct, equivalent formal dress for evening social events. The cutaway front of the morning tail coat differs from the evening tail coat (dress coat) in that the waist of the former is cut obliquely while the waist of the latter is cut horizontally, and the tail is cut differently from the swallow tailcoat used for evening dress. The skirt waist construction of the coats is equestrian in origin, to ease the wearer's riding his horse. Equivalents for women [ edit ] Women should wear 'smart daywear', such as a smart day dress or a skirt worn with a jacket. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) The straps of tops and dresses should be at least one inch wide even if worn with a jacket or other covering. [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) Strapless, off-the-shoulder, one shoulder, halter neck, sheer, bardot, and spaghetti straps are not permitted in the Royal Enclosure at the Royal Ascot [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) and may be inadvisable at other occasions that require morning dress. Dresses and skirts should be neither too short nor too revealing. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) At their shortest, they should fall just above the knee. [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) Trouser suits and smart jumpsuits are permissible at the Royal Ascot but must be ankle length. With trouser suits, the coat and trousers should match in both material and colour. Jumpsuits must also comply with the regulations that apply to skirts and dresses. [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) At the most formal of occasions and the races, dresses and skirts should be worn with a tailored jacket. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) A bolero, shrug, or pashmina may otherwise be worn. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Daytime shoes, such as wedges, should be worn rather than very high heels or evening-style shoes [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) and ought to be comfortable enough to wear for several hours. [57] (#cite_note-:8-57) Tights should always be worn. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Hats should be worn in the Royal Enclosure at the Royal Ascot [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) but are optional at weddings. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) They should be a style that is securely fitted and may be worn throughout the day. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Hats should neither be so large or cumbersome that they hamper kissing [57] (#cite_note-:8-57) nor too small. The Royal Ascot does not permit fascinators within the Royal Enclosure. [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) Headpieces may be worn instead of a hat but must have a solid base of at least 10 cm. [56] (#cite_note-:7-56) Daytime jewellery, such as pearls, add an extra flourish of style. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) A shoulder bag is often preferable to a clutch purse, especially for mothers at weddings. [57] (#cite_note-:8-57) Contemporary use [ edit ] Morning dress worn at a Catholic (/wiki/Catholic) Procession of the Holy Blood (/wiki/Procession_of_the_Holy_Blood) in Bruges (/wiki/Bruges) , Belgium (/wiki/Belgium) (2009) Commonwealth of Nations [ edit ] Morning dress remains somewhat common at weddings in the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth of Nations (/wiki/Commonwealth_of_Nations) countries (such as Australia (/wiki/Australia) , and New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) ), usually worn only by male members of a wedding party but sometimes by guests as well. Men at upper (/wiki/Upper_class) and upper-middle class weddings usually wear their own morning coats and their own ties. On these occasions they may wear their old public school ties (/wiki/School_tie) (known as private schools in the US). For the British working class (/wiki/Middle_England) (constituting the majority of the population), a wedding party tends to wear hired morning suits that are co-ordinated, the men usually dressed in outfits of identical ties, handkerchiefs and waistcoats. [58] (#cite_note-58) Additionally, morning dress may be seen at some royal or governmental audiences (/wiki/Audience) and social season (/wiki/Season_(society)) events (e.g. horse races such as the Royal Enclosure of Royal Ascot, the Queen's Stand of Epsom Derby (/wiki/Epsom_Derby) , or the Victoria Derby (/wiki/Victoria_Derby) in Australia (/wiki/Australia) ). It may also be seen sometimes worn at church services (/wiki/Church_service) in St Paul's Cathedral (/wiki/St_Paul%27s_Cathedral) , London (/wiki/London) , and St Giles' Cathedral (/wiki/St_Giles%27_Cathedral) , Edinburgh (/wiki/Edinburgh) . Other occasions include certain City of London (/wiki/City_of_London) institutions including fraternal orders (/wiki/Fraternal_order) , gentlemen's clubs (/wiki/Gentlemen%27s_clubs) , livery companies (/wiki/Livery_companies) and guilds (/wiki/Guilds) . It also exists as school uniforms (/wiki/School_uniform) at some of United Kingdom's most traditional schools, such as Harrow (/wiki/Harrow_School) (on Sundays) [59] (#cite_note-59) and Eton (/wiki/Eton_College) . [60] (#cite_note-60) United States [ edit ] Joseph Douglass (/wiki/Joseph_Douglass) in morning dress with grandfather Frederick Douglass (/wiki/Frederick_Douglass) in frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) (circa 1890s) In the U.S., the morning coat (/wiki/Morning_coat) is sometimes referred to as a cutaway coat. [28] (#cite_note-flusser2002dressing-28) In the U.S., morning dress is rare. Harvard Commencement (/wiki/Harvard_Commencement) is one of the few occasions in the United States where morning dress is consistently worn (see Academic regalia of Harvard University (/wiki/Academic_regalia_of_Harvard_University) ). It was formerly worn in traditional weddings and political formal events, the Kennedy inauguration of 1961 (/wiki/Kennedy_inauguration_of_1961) being the last use for that ceremony. In Virginia (/wiki/Virginia) , morning dress is worn by a governor (/wiki/Governor) -elect when sworn to office. [61] (#cite_note-61) By tradition, the Solicitor General of the United States (/wiki/Solicitor_General_of_the_United_States) (SG) wears striped pants and a morning coats when delivering oral argument (/wiki/Oral_argument) before the Supreme Court of the United States (/wiki/Supreme_Court_of_the_United_States) . [62] (#cite_note-Days-62) [63] (#cite_note-NYT1986-63) The deputy U.S. solicitors general also wear morning dress when attending the Supreme Court, [64] (#cite_note-64) [65] (#cite_note-Lithwick-65) as do other Justice Department attorneys. [65] (#cite_note-Lithwick-65) [66] (#cite_note-66) This contrasts with the attire of other attorneys, who usually wear ordinary business suits (/wiki/Business_suit) when arguing before the U.S. Supreme Court. [63] (#cite_note-NYT1986-63) It is rare for the SG to argue before state courts and lower federal courts, but when this occurs the SG does not wear morning dress. [62] (#cite_note-Days-62) The morning-dress Supreme Court tradition applies only to male SGs; for female SGs and deputies, use of the morning coat is optional. Elena Kagan (/wiki/Elena_Kagan) , upon her appointment as SG in 2009, decided to wear a dark pantsuit instead for her arguments. [67] (#cite_note-67) Elizabeth Prelogar (/wiki/Elizabeth_Prelogar) followed Kagan's precedent upon becoming SG in 2021. [68] (#cite_note-68) Morning dress has recurred in the traditional Easter parade (/wiki/Easter_parade) associated with Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue) in New York City. Gallery [ edit ] Morning dress with grosgrain lapels, matching black waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) with a then-fashionable shorter skirt length, top hat (/wiki/Top_hat) , formal gloves (/wiki/Gloves) , contrasting-top Oxford boots (/wiki/Oxford_boot) with punching across the toe cap, boldly striped long tie, striped shirt with contrasting white turn-down collar (/wiki/Turn-down_collar) and cuffs, and striped formal trousers (/wiki/Formal_trousers) . The characteristic angle of the cutaway front of the skirt is clearly visible, as is the waist seam. (May 1901) William Walker, 1st Baron Wavertree (/wiki/William_Walker,_1st_Baron_Wavertree) caricatured by "Spy" ( Leslie Ward (/wiki/Leslie_Ward) ) in Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(British_magazine)) , June 1906 Racegoers in morning dress at Royal Ascot (/wiki/Royal_Ascot) , England (/wiki/England) , before World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) Transjordan prime minister Rashid Tali'a (/wiki/Rashid_Tali%27a) in morning dress with fez (/wiki/Fez_(hat)) (circa 1921) Brazilian president Washington Luís (/wiki/Washington_Lu%C3%ADs) in morning dress with top hat during a military ceremony (late 1920s−early 1930s). Men in morning grey suits at the races in Australia, in 1937 Morning dress on the Lord Mayor of Bruges (/wiki/Mayor_of_Bruges) at a ceremonial during the Catholic (/wiki/Catholic) procession of the Holy Blood (/wiki/Procession_of_the_Holy_Blood) in Bruges (/wiki/Bruges) , Belgium (/wiki/Belgium) (2007) See also [ edit ] The stroller (/wiki/Stroller_(style)) is a similar, but slightly less formal, dress code, hence not interchangeable with full morning dress. Whereas morning dress is the daylight equivalent of evening's white tie, the stroller is the daylight equivalent of black tie and is essentially a more-formal lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) (indeed, in Britain it was historically referred to as a "black lounge suit"). Notes [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 190. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Morning Suits – Cad & the Dandy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121019234452/http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/style-guide/weddings-suits/morning-suits) . Archived from the original (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/style-guide/weddings-suits/morning-suits) on 2012-10-19. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Donald, Elsie, ed. (1981). Debrett's Etiquette and Modern Manners . London: Debrett's Peerage Limited. pp. 385–386. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-905649-43-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit . New York: HarperCollins Publishers. p. 169. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-089186-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Keers, Paul (1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man . London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. p. 105. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-297-79191-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. pp. 185–187. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Tuckerman, Nancy; Dunnan, Nancy (1995). The Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette: 50th Anniversary Edition (1 ed.). New York: Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group Inc. p. 284 (https://archive.org/details/amyvanderbiltcom00tuck/page/284) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-385413428 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie (2014). Emily Post's Wedding Etiquette (6 ed.). New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc. p. 260. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-232610-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Wedding Suits – A Suit That Fits" (http://www.asuitthatfits.com/offthecuff/custom-wedding-suit-styles/) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 116. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-4-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit . New York: HarperCollins Publishers. p. 177. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-089186-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Keers, Paul (1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man . London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. p. 104. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-297-79191-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Post, Peggy; Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie; Post Senning, Daniel (2011). Emily Post's Etiquette (18 ed.). New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc. p. 619 (https://archive.org/details/emilypostsetique00post_5/page/619) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-174023-7 . ^ Jump up to: a b Amies, Hardy (2013). The Englishman's Suit . London: Quartet Books Ltd. p. 82. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7043-7169-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. pp. 73–74. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. p. 74. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 94. ^ Jump up to: a b Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. pp. 74 & 79. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. p. 79. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Keers, Paul (1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man . London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. pp. 104–105. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-297-79191-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 297. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 302. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Pullman, Nigel. "Dress codes" (http://www.liverycompanies.info/fellowship-of-clerks/dinners/dress-codes.pdf) (PDF) . Livery Companies of the City of London . Retrieved 17 October 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 128. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Roetzel, Bernhard (2009). Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion . Cambridge: Tandem Verlag GmbH. p. 331. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-8331-5270-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 117. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-4-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. p. 77. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Flusser, Alan (2002). Dressing The Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion . New York: HarperCollins Publishers Inc. p. 284. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-019144-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Bryant, Jo; Wyse, Liz, eds. (2012). Debrett's Men's Style . Richmond, Surrey: Debrett's Limited. p. 22. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-870520-00-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 129. ^ (#cite_ref-31) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. pp. 136–138. ^ (#cite_ref-32) Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. pp. 77–78. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. pp. 116–117. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-4-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 233. ^ (#cite_ref-35) Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. p. 78. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. pp. 75–76. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit . New York: HarperCollins Publishers. pp. 169–170. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-089186-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Amies, Hardy (2013). The Englishman's Suit . London: Quartet Books Ltd. pp. 82–83. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7043-7169-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Amies, Hardy (2013). The Englishman's Suit . London: Quartet Books Ltd. pp. 77–78. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7043-7169-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 185. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ Jump up to: a b Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 188. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. pp. 147–150. ^ (#cite_ref-43) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 151. ^ (#cite_ref-44) Bryant, Jo (2012). Men's Style . London: Debrett's Limited. p. 18. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781870520003 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Royal Ascot Style Guide | Ascot" (https://www.ascot.co.uk/what-to-wear/royal-ascot-style-guide) . www.ascot.co.uk . Retrieved 2018-10-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) "The Royal Ascot Style Guide 2019" (https://www.ascot.co.uk/uploads/79461319-02-05-2019-17-54-33.The%20Royal%20Ascot%20Style%20Guide,%20in%20Association%20with%20Cunard.pdf) (PDF) . Royal Ascot . 2 May 2019 . Retrieved 4 November 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 195. ^ Jump up to: a b Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. p. 78. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit . New York: HarperCollins Publishers. p. 171. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-089186-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. pp. 196–200. ^ (#cite_ref-51) Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. p. 201. ^ (#cite_ref-52) Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis (/wiki/Phillis_Emily_Cunnington) (1973). Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950 . London: Faber and Faber Limited. p. 338. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-571-09507-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit . New York: HarperCollins Publishers. p. 170. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-089186-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Hanson, William (2014). The Bluffer's guide to etiquette (First ed.). p. 72. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-909937-00-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. pp. 436–437. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g "Ladies – What to Wear: Royal Enclosure" (https://www.ascot.co.uk/what-to-wear/royal-ascot/royal-enclosure/ladies) . Royal Ascot . Ascot Racecourse . Retrieved 2 November 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook . Mayfair, London: Debrett's Limited. p. 124. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-4-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Elsie Burch Donald (1981). Debrett's Etiquette and Modern Manners . p. 56In. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7472-0657-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) "Existing Customs 2016" (https://www.harrowschool.org.uk/MainFolder/documents/faq/Existing-Customs-2016.pdf) (PDF) . Harrow School . Retrieved 3 November 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) "Some Notes on Dress at Eton College" (http://www.keikari.com/english/some-notes-on-dress-at-eton-college/) . Keikari . Retrieved 3 November 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-61) Oliver, Ned (12 January 2018). "Trumpets, morning coats and ham: What to expect at Ralph Northam's inauguration Saturday" (https://www.richmond.com/news/virginia/government-politics/general-assembly/trumpets-morning-coats-and-ham-what-to-expect-at-ralph/article_f7700674-4909-55ee-9440-433dab7e4ba1.html) . Richmond Times-Dispatch . Retrieved 2019-01-09 . ^ Jump up to: a b Drew S. Days, No Striped Pants and Morning Coat: The Solicitor General in the State and Lower Federal Courts (https://openyls.law.yale.edu/bitstream/handle/20.500.13051/705/No_Striped_Pants_and_Morning_Coat_The_Solicitor_General_in_the_State_and_Lower_Federal_Courts.pdf) , 11 Ga. St. U. L. Rev. (1995). ^ Jump up to: a b Morning Coat, Striped Pants (https://www.nytimes.com/1986/07/18/us/morning-coat-striped-pants.html) , New York Times (July 18, 1986). ^ (#cite_ref-64) Joan Biskupic, Deputy Solicitor Heads for New Bench Mark (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/politics/1994/10/31/deputy-solicitor-heads-for-new-bench-mark/06ecbc85-9513-4670-a4c7-e4c993a41bd9/) , Washington Post (October 31, 1994). ^ Jump up to: a b Dahlia Lithwick, Law Suit: Time to do away with morning wedding attire at the high court. (https://slate.com/news-and-politics/2009/01/time-to-do-away-with-morning-wedding-attire-at-the-high-court.html) , Slate (January 8, 2009). ^ (#cite_ref-66) The Court and Its Traditions (https://www.supremecourt.gov/about/traditions.aspx) , Supreme Court of the United States (last accessed September 17, 2022). ^ (#cite_ref-67) September 11, 2009. "SG Dumped Traditional Morning Coat, Wore Pantsuit of Unknown Design" (https://www.abajournal.com/news/article/sg_dumped_traditional_morning_coat_for_first_high_court_appearance) . ABA Journal . American Bar Association (/wiki/American_Bar_Association) . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_numeric_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-68) Mark Walsh, Two cases. Three hours of arguments. Four sets of lawyers. Fifty mentions of abortion. One pair of red socks. (https://www.scotusblog.com/2021/11/two-cases-three-hours-of-arguments-four-sets-of-lawyers-fifty-mentions-of-abortion-one-pair-of-red-socks/) , SCOTUSblog (November 1, 2021). Bibliography [ edit ] Apparel Arts (/wiki/Apparel_Arts) magazine, an account of 1930s fashion and style; some issues more relevant than others, such as those reproduced with comment at The London Lounge . Amies, Hardy (2013). The Englishman's Suit . London: Quartet Books Ltd. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7043-7169-9 . Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style . HarperCollins (/wiki/HarperCollins) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-089186-2 . Bryant, Jo; Wyse, Liz, eds. (2012). Debrett's Men's Style . Richmond, Surrey: Debrett's Limited. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-870520-00-3 . Donald, Elsie, ed. (1981). Debrett's Etiquette and Modern Manners . London: Debrett's Peerage Limited. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-905649-43-5 . Flusser, Alan (/wiki/Alan_Flusser) (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion . HarperCollins (/wiki/HarperCollins) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-019144-3 . Hume, Lucy (2017). Debrett's Wedding Handbook . Debrett's Limited (/wiki/Debrett%27s) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-4-2 . Keers, Paul (1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man . London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-297-79191-5 . Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis (1973). Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century 1900-1950 . London: Faber and Faber Limited. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-571-09507-0 . Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie (2014). Emily Post's Wedding Etiquette (6 ed.). New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-232610-2 . Post, Peggy; Post, Anna; Post, Lizzie; Post Senning, Daniel (2011). Emily Post's Etiquette . New York: The Emily Post Institute, Inc. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-174023-7 . Pullman, Nigel. "Dress codes" (http://www.liverycompanies.info/fellowship-of-clerks/dinners/dress-codes.pdf) (PDF) . Livery Companies of the City of London . Retrieved 17 October 2018 . Roetzel, Bernhard (2009). Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion . Cambridge: Tandem Verlag GmbH. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-8331-5270-2 . Schneider, Sven (2017). Morning Dress Guide (1 ed.). Saint Paul, Minnesota: Gentleman's Gazette LLC. Storey, Nicholas (2008). History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing . Barnsley: Pen & Sword Books Ltd. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84468-037-5 . Tuckerman, Nancy; Dunnan, Nancy (1995). The Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette: 50th Anniversary Edition (1 ed.). New York: Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group Inc. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-385413428 . Wyse, Elizabeth (2015). Debrett's Handbook . Debrett's Limited (/wiki/Debrett%27s) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9929348-1-1 . External links [ edit ] Media related to Morning dress (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Morning_dress) at Wikimedia Commons Morning Dress Guide – Informational site dedicated to formal morning dress only (http://www.morningdressguide.com/) Informational overview of Morning Wear by the Black Tie Guide (http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplemental/Morning_Dress.htm) "The Morning Dress Guide," (https://andrewsandpygott.wordpress.com/) Andrews & Pygott v t e Parties (/wiki/Party) and festivals (/wiki/Festival) Sorted by occasions, purposes or attributes Types Wedding (/wiki/Wedding) -related Bachelor party (/wiki/Bachelor_party) Bachelorette party (/wiki/Bachelorette_party) Bridal shower (/wiki/Bridal_shower) Engagement party (/wiki/Engagement_party) Wedding reception (/wiki/Wedding_reception) Eid al-Adha (/wiki/Eid_al-Adha) Eid al-Fitr (/wiki/Eid_al-Fitr) Banquets (/wiki/Banquet) Eid cuisine (/wiki/Eid_cuisine) State banquet (/wiki/State_banquet) Ball (/wiki/Ball_(dance_event)) 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Luxury fashion house For the surname, see Balenciaga (surname) (/wiki/Balenciaga_(surname)) . Balenciaga SA Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) ( société anonyme (/wiki/S.A._(corporation)) ) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Predecessor Balenciaga y Compañía EISA, S.A. Founded San Sebastián (/wiki/San_Sebasti%C3%A1n) , Spain (/wiki/Spain) , 1919 ; 105 years ago ( 1919 ) Founder Cristóbal Balenciaga (/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga) Headquarters Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France (/wiki/France) Area served Worldwide Key people Cédric Charbit ( chief executive officer (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) ( creative director (/wiki/Creative_director) ) Martina Tiefenthaler ( chief creative officer (/wiki/Chief_creative_officer) ) Ludivine Pont ( chief marketing officer (/wiki/Chief_marketing_officer) ) Number of employees 1,325 (2019) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Kering (/wiki/Kering) Website balenciaga (http://balenciaga.com) .com (http://balenciaga.com) Balenciaga ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) b ə ˌ l ɛ n s i ˈ ɑː ɡ ə / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) bə- LEN -see- AH -gə [1] (#cite_note-1) ) is a French luxury fashion line that was founded in 1919 by Spanish couturier (/wiki/Haute_couture) Cristóbal Balenciaga (/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga) in San Sebastián (/wiki/San_Sebasti%C3%A1n) . Balenciaga produces ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) footwear, handbags, and accessories, and licenses its name and branding to Coty (/wiki/Coty_Inc.) for fragrances. [2] (#cite_note-2) It is currently owned by the French corporation Kering (/wiki/Kering) . History [ edit ] Dresses designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga on display in Florence, Italy Founding to 1980 [ edit ] Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián (/wiki/San_Sebasti%C3%A1n) , Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) The Spanish royal family and aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War (/wiki/Spanish_Civil_War) forced him to close his stores, he moved to Paris. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) [4] (#cite_note-va-4) Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance (/wiki/Spanish_Renaissance) . [3] (#cite_note-met-3) His success was nearly immediate. In two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) Carmel Snow (/wiki/Carmel_Snow) , the editor of Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , was an early champion of his designs. [5] (#cite_note-5) Customers risked their safety traveling to Europe during World War II to see Balenciaga's clothing. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) During this period, he was noted for his "square coat", with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke (/wiki/Yoke_(clothing)) , and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) Historians believe that Balenciaga's continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris (/wiki/Paris_in_World_War_II) was made possible by his connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco (/wiki/Francisco_Franco) who was Adolf Hitler (/wiki/Adolf_Hitler) 's close ally. [6] (#cite_note-6) The relation to Franco was so close that Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family. [7] (#cite_note-7) The company was one of only 60 allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, he testified that he refused Hitler's request to transfer his company's activities to Berlin. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by " Christian Dior's New Look (/wiki/Dior#"New_Look") ". [3] (#cite_note-met-3) The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women's bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimono (/wiki/Kimono) . His manipulation of the waist, in particular, constituted "what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women". [3] (#cite_note-met-3) In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) His trademarks included "collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance" and shortened "bracelet" sleeves. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as Pauline de Rothschild (/wiki/Pauline_Fairfax_Potter) , Bunny Mellon (/wiki/Rachel_Lambert_Lloyd) , Marella Agnelli (/wiki/Marella_Caracciolo_di_Castagneto) , Hope Portocarrero (/wiki/Hope_Portocarrero) , Gloria Guinness (/wiki/Gloria_Rubio_y_Alatorre) , and Mona von Bismarck (/wiki/Mona_von_Bismarck) —were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium (/wiki/Queen_Fabiola_of_Belgium) made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. Jackie Kennedy (/wiki/Jacqueline_Kennedy_Onassis) famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga's expensive creations while John F. Kennedy (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy) was president – he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy (/wiki/Joseph_P._Kennedy_Sr.) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Protégés [ edit ] Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) (1949), Andre Courreges (/wiki/Andre_Courreges) (1950), Emanuel Ungaro (/wiki/Emanuel_Ungaro) (1958), but his most famous and noted protégé (/wiki/Prot%C3%A9g%C3%A9) was Hubert de Givenchy (/wiki/Hubert_de_Givenchy) , who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne (/wiki/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_fran%C3%A7aise_de_la_couture) and also the press over the scheduling of his shows. [ citation needed ] Battle against the press [ edit ] In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga's silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew. In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule. Battle against the Chambre [ edit ] Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie (/wiki/Bourgeoisie) status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne (/wiki/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_fran%C3%A7aise_de_la_couture) , and, thus, was never a member. Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986. [3] (#cite_note-met-3) 1981 to 2010 [ edit ] Balenciaga exhibit, Fine Arts Museum ( Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao (/wiki/Museo_de_Bellas_Artes_de_Bilbao) ), Bilbao, Spain Balenciaga is now owned by Kering (/wiki/Kering) and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière. [11] (#cite_note-11) In 2002, Balenciaga's star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong (/wiki/Kaisik_Wong) , a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment. [12] (#cite_note-12) Ghesquière's F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief (/wiki/Editor-in-chief) at Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) . [ citation needed ] The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly (/wiki/Jennifer_Connelly) and Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) to the 2006 Academy Awards (/wiki/Academy_Awards) , as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban (/wiki/Keith_Urban) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Kylie Minogue (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) also wore a Balenciaga dress for her " Slow (/wiki/Slow_(Kylie_Minogue_song)) " and " Red Blooded Woman (/wiki/Red_Blooded_Woman) " music videos and for her concert tour. [14] (#cite_note-14) Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) editor-in-chief Amy Astley (/wiki/Amy_Astley) so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled "Global Studies" and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) , tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes. [ citation needed ] Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women's ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on Sienna Miller (/wiki/Sienna_Miller) , [15] (#cite_note-15) Lara Bingle (/wiki/Lara_Bingle) , Raquel Zimmerman (/wiki/Raquel_Zimmerman) , [16] (#cite_note-16) Caroline Trentini (/wiki/Caroline_Trentini) , Emmanuelle Alt (/wiki/Emmanuelle_Alt) , [17] (#cite_note-17) Tatiana Sorokko (/wiki/Tatiana_Sorokko) , [18] (#cite_note-18) Hilary Rhoda (/wiki/Hilary_Rhoda) , Jennifer Garner (/wiki/Jennifer_Garner) , and Stephanie Seymour (/wiki/Stephanie_Seymour) , among others. [19] (#cite_note-19) Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress Chloë Sevigny (/wiki/Chlo%C3%AB_Sevigny) , who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière. 2010 to present [ edit ] Balenciaga handbags on display at the Galeries Lafayette (/wiki/Galeries_Lafayette) in Paris In March 2011 at M. H. de Young Museum (/wiki/De_Young_(museum)) in San Francisco, USA, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga's career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum's encyclopedic costume collection. "You can't even measure it", said Rodarte (/wiki/Rodarte) designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga's influence. [20] (#cite_note-WWD.COM-20) The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, Marissa Mayer (/wiki/Marissa_Mayer) , Vanessa Getty (/wiki/Vanessa_Getty) , Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, Jamie Tisch (/wiki/Jamie_Tisch) , Gwyneth Paltrow (/wiki/Gwyneth_Paltrow) , Orlando Bloom (/wiki/Orlando_Bloom) , Balthazar Getty (/wiki/Balthazar_Getty) , Maggie Rizer (/wiki/Maggie_Rizer) , Connie Nielsen (/wiki/Connie_Nielsen) , Maria Bello (/wiki/Maria_Bello) , and Mia Wasikowska (/wiki/Mia_Wasikowska) . [20] (#cite_note-WWD.COM-20) In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria (/wiki/Getaria,_Spain) , Spain. [21] (#cite_note-21) In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière (/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re) , ending his 15-year tenure. [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-Balenciaga_RTW_Fall_2014-23) The brand announced Alexander Wang (/wiki/Alexander_Wang_(designer)) as its new creative director. [23] (#cite_note-Balenciaga_RTW_Fall_2014-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) Wang presented his first collection for the label on 28 February 2013, at Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) . In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris (/wiki/Tribunal_de_grande_instance_de_Paris) set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière. [25] (#cite_note-Balenciaga,_Nicolas_Ghesquière_Trial_Date_Set-25) Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière's comments in the magazine System had hurt the company's image. [26] (#cite_note-26) The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court. In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director Alexander Wang (/wiki/Alexander_Wang_(designer)) after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics. [27] (#cite_note-27) In early October 2015, the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) as its new creative director. [28] (#cite_note-28) In 2018, Balenciaga was the subject of a social media backlash in China when personnel at one of Balenciaga's Paris stores assaulted a Chinese tourist. [29] (#cite_note-:1-29) : 218 In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen (/wiki/Vanity_Teen) magazine. [30] (#cite_note-30) In August 2021, Justin Bieber (/wiki/Justin_Bieber) was announced as the new face of Balenciaga. [31] (#cite_note-31) In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l'œil (/wiki/Trompe-l%27%C5%93il) sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190. [32] (#cite_note-32) In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments. [33] (#cite_note-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) due to his anti-semitic comments. [35] (#cite_note-35) In December 2023, Balenciaga was awarded by the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (/wiki/People_for_the_Ethical_Treatment_of_Animals) ( PETA (/wiki/People_for_the_Ethical_Treatment_of_Animals) ) with the prize for best luxury product for its entirely vegan coat made from Lunaform, a plant-based leather. [36] (#cite_note-36) In May 2024, Balenciaga reinforces its presence in Japan (/wiki/Japan) with the opening of a new flagship store in Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) . [37] (#cite_note-37) Later in June, Balenciaga opened its first store in Cancún (/wiki/Canc%C3%BAn) , Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) . [38] (#cite_note-38) Brand Ambassadors [ edit ] In July 2023, Balenciaga announced its first-ever brand ambassadors, Isabelle Huppert (/wiki/Isabelle_Huppert) and PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn (/wiki/Krit_Amnuaydechkorn) . This is the first time in history, Balenciaga has announced a brand ambassador [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) [41] (#cite_note-41) In November 2023, Balenciaga appointed Michelle Yeoh (/wiki/Michelle_Yeoh) as its brand ambassador. [42] (#cite_note-42) In December 2023, Balenciaga introduced its new brand ambassador, Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) . [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) In January 2024, Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) became the brand ambassador of Balenciaga. [46] (#cite_note-46) [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) [49] (#cite_note-49) Support for Ukraine [ edit ] In March 2022 during Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) , Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the Russo-Ukrainian War (/wiki/Russo-Ukrainian_War) . T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the Ukrainian flag (/wiki/Flag_of_Ukraine) ) were placed on the chairs. Creative director Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) recited a poem "Live Ukraine, live for beauty" by Ukrainian writer Oleksandr Oles (/wiki/Oleksandr_Oles) at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to "fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace". [50] (#cite_note-50) The brand also made donations to the UN World Food Programme (/wiki/World_Food_Programme) to support Ukrainian refugees. [51] (#cite_note-51) Child advertising controversy [ edit ] In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga's Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) account featured children holding teddy bears, which were dressed in bondage and BDSM (/wiki/BDSM) gear. [52] (#cite_note-nytisyuk-52) Following heavy criticism, Balenciaga later apologized and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga. [52] (#cite_note-nytisyuk-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition (/wiki/Ashcroft_v._Free_Speech_Coalition) , which was a child pornography case. [55] (#cite_note-55) [52] (#cite_note-nytisyuk-52) Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25 million against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, claiming that they were responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document. In response, the set designer's attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot and handled the papers and props used. [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) Balenciaga dropped their legal action on 2 December. [58] (#cite_note-58) In another image, featuring the actress Isabelle Huppert (/wiki/Isabelle_Huppert) , two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (/wiki/The_Cremaster_Cycle) (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney (/wiki/Matthew_Barney) , and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans (/wiki/Micha%C3%ABl_Borremans) . Some Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) users tried to connect imagery from Barney's and Borremans' works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga's marketing material. [59] (#cite_note-59) Carl W. Jones from the School of Media and Communication at the University of Westminster (/wiki/University_of_Westminster) described the campaign as an attempt of shockvertising (/wiki/Shock_advertising) . [60] (#cite_note-60) Balenciaga brand-ambassador Kim Kardashian (/wiki/Kim_Kardashian) , who initially said nothing in public about the scandal, started selling her Balenciaga clothing and shoes. [61] (#cite_note-61) In popular culture [ edit ] In the 1997 film For Richer or Poorer (/wiki/For_Richer_or_Poorer) , Tim Allen (/wiki/Tim_Allen) 's character accidentally sets a Balenciaga dress on fire. He tries laughing at it, rhetorically asking: "What the hell's a Balenciaga?" On January 29, 2014, the character Myrtle Snow cries "Balenciaga!" as her dying words on the season finale of FX (/wiki/FX_(TV_channel)) television show American Horror Story: Coven (/wiki/American_Horror_Story:_Coven) . [62] (#cite_note-62) [63] (#cite_note-63) Film director Paul Thomas Anderson (/wiki/Paul_Thomas_Anderson) was inspired to make Phantom Thread (/wiki/Phantom_Thread) when he became interested in the fashion industry after reading about designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. [64] (#cite_note-EW_Interview-64) Balenciaga collaborated with The Simpsons (/wiki/The_Simpsons) to create a short film (/wiki/The_Simpsons_Balenciaga) for Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) in 2021. [65] (#cite_note-65) In 2022, American rapper and pop singer Lizzo (/wiki/Lizzo) referenced Balenciaga in her number one hit " About Damn Time (/wiki/About_Damn_Time) ", singing "Feeling fussy, walkin' in my Balenci-ussies". In 2022, singer Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) released Renaissance . Her song " Break My Soul (/wiki/Break_My_Soul) The Queen's Remix" tracked with Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) 's " Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(Madonna_song)) " references "House of Balenciaga". [66] (#cite_note-66) Balenciaga is referred to in the opening scene of Triangle of Sadness (/wiki/Triangle_of_Sadness) ( Ruben Östlund (/wiki/Ruben_%C3%96stlund) , 2022), where a reporter tells models to "look Balenciaga", that is, to have a look of contempt. In 2024 in S3:E6 of Hacks (TV series) (/wiki/Hacks_(TV_series)) , the Ava character played by Hannah Einbinder (/wiki/Hannah_Einbinder) blurts out "Balenciaga" as a way of showing how cool and hip she is. Creative directors [ edit ] Cristóbal Balenciaga (/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga) – 1919 to 1968 Michel Goma (/wiki/Michel_Goma) – 1987 to 1992 Josephus Thimister (/wiki/Josephus_Thimister) – 1992 to 1997 Nicolas Ghesquière (/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re) – 1997 to 2012 Alexander Wang (/wiki/Alexander_Wang_(designer)) – 2013 to 2015 [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-68) Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) – 2015 to present [69] (#cite_note-69) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Balenciaga" (https://www.ahdictionary.com/word/search.html?q=Balenciaga) . The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language (/wiki/The_American_Heritage_Dictionary_of_the_English_Language) (5th ed.). HarperCollins. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "What is the State of Luxury's Hundred Million Dollar Licensing Deals?" (https://www.thefashionlaw.com/what-is-the-state-of-luxurys-hundred-million-dollar-licensing-deals/) . The Fashion Law . May 10, 2018 . Retrieved September 3, 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l Charleston, Beth Duncuff (October 2004). "Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972)" (http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm) . Timeline of Art History . Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070127124703/http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm) from the original on January 27, 2007 . Retrieved March 11, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-va_4-0) "Cristóbal Balenciaga" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071123224424/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/balenciaga/index.html) . Victoria & Albert Museum. Archived from the original (http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/balenciaga/index.html) on November 23, 2007 . Retrieved March 11, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Rowlands, Penelope (2005). A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters . Atria. p. 286 and elsewhere. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0743480457 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Peter, Popham (March 6, 2011). "Fashion and Fascism: A Love Story" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/fashion-and-fascism-ndash-love-story-2233481.html) . The Independent . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210225022823/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/fashion-and-fascism-ndash-love-story-2233481.html) from the original on February 25, 2021 . Retrieved October 8, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "In Which Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior Bring A New Dawn" (http://thisrecording.com/today/2011/1/19/in-which-cristobal-balenciaga-and-christian-dior-bring-a-new.html) . This Recording . Retrieved October 29, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "5 Famous Fashion Designers Ties To The Nazis" (https://www.thefashionspot.com/buzz-news/latest-news/401637-tbt-5-famous-fashion-designers-ties-to-the-nazis/) . The Fashion Spot. May 1, 2014. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140509112535/http://www.thefashionspot.com:80/buzz-news/latest-news/401637-tbt-5-famous-fashion-designers-ties-to-the-nazis/) from the original on May 9, 2014 . Retrieved October 8, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Paul, Johnson (January 19, 2011). "Cut Against The Bias" (http://thisrecording.com/today/2011/1/19/in-which-cristobal-balenciaga-and-christian-dior-bring-a-new.html) . This Recording. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110128045558/http://thisrecording.com:80/today/2011/1/19/in-which-cristobal-balenciaga-and-christian-dior-bring-a-new.html) from the original on January 28, 2011 . Retrieved October 8, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Brown, Barbara Pascarell (2012). Pretty in pink: Jacqueline Kennedy and the politics of fashion . New York: UMI. p. 33 . Retrieved October 12, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Menkes, Suzy (November 20, 2001). "Nicolas Ghesquiere, a Creative Young Spirit in the Master Class, Balenciaga: Reviving and Revering" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070129102945/http://www.iht.com/articles/2001/11/20/frevive_ed3_.php) . International Herald Tribune . Archived from the original (http://www.iht.com/articles/2001/11/20/frevive_ed3_.php) on January 29, 2007 . Retrieved March 11, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Horyn, Cathy (April 9, 2002). "Is Copying Really a Part of the Creative Process?" (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/09/nyregion/is-copying-really-a-part-of-the-creative-process.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved April 5, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Kidman and Urban: happy marriage or misalliance?" (http://english.pravda.ru/society/showbiz/25-07-2006/83504-Kidman_urban-0) . English pravda.ru . July 25, 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Barco – Barco MiPIX and LED displays chosen for exclusive Kylie concert" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061015003230/http://www.barco.com/corporate/en/pressreleases/show.asp?index=1003) . barco.com . Archived from the original (http://www.barco.com/corporate/en/pressreleases/show.asp?index=1003) on October 15, 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Celebrity Dress" (http://www.thecelebritydress.com/celebrity-gallery/) . Thecelebritydress.com . Retrieved March 25, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Raquel Zimmerman in vintage Balenciaga" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110927101723/http://www.slide.com/s/RTPEFK_M7j9VhJlBabaAVMfAotBEIKiw?referrer=hlnk) . slide.com. Archived from the original (http://www.slide.com/s/RTPEFK_M7j9VhJlBabaAVMfAotBEIKiw?referrer=hlnk) on September 27, 2011 . Retrieved March 25, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Zarrella, Katherine (October 2010). "The Hot and the Haute" (http://www.style.com/peopleparties/parties/scoop/fashionweek-030311_Vogue_Paris_Cocktails/) . Style.com (/wiki/Style.com) . Retrieved March 25, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Zinko, Corolyne (November 1, 2010). "Tatiana Sorokko's Extending the Runway" (http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/27/SB6G1FF6R0.DTL) . San Francisco Chronicle (/wiki/San_Francisco_Chronicle) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20101104071218/http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=%2Fc%2Fa%2F2010%2F10%2F27%2FSB6G1FF6R0.DTL) from the original on November 4, 2010 . Retrieved November 1, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Look of the Day" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120311105224/http://www.instyle.com/instyle/celebrities/lookoftheday/photos/0,,20048428,00.html) . InStyle (/wiki/InStyle) . July 27, 2007. Archived from the original (http://www.instyle.com/instyle/celebrities/lookoftheday/photos/0,,20048428,00.html) on March 11, 2012 . Retrieved March 24, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b "A Spanish Night for Balenciaga in San Francisco" (http://www.wwd.com/eyescoop/a-spanish-night-for-balenciaga-in-san-francisco-3565172?module=today) . Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . March 25, 2011 . Retrieved March 27, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Home Page" (http://www.cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/en//) . Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa . Retrieved April 28, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga" (http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/11/05/nicolas-ghesquiere-to-leave-balenciaga/) . The New York Times . November 5, 2012 . Retrieved November 5, 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014" (http://www.wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2014/review/balenciaga?src=n/newsAlert/20140227-5) . WWD . February 27, 2014 . Retrieved February 27, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Lindsey Schickner. "Alexander Wang Will Helm Balenciaga And His Own Label" (https://web.archive.org/web/20200920044625/http://fashionetc.com/news/fashion/8203-alexander-wang-to-helm-balenciaga-and-own-label) . Archived from the original (http://fashionetc.com/news/fashion/8203-alexander-wang-to-helm-balenciaga-and-own-label) on September 20, 2020 . Retrieved December 5, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-Balenciaga,_Nicolas_Ghesquière_Trial_Date_Set_25-0) Socha, Miles (February 4, 2014). "Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set" (http://www.wwd.com/business-news/legal/court-sets-balenciaga-ghesquiere-trial-date-7408226?src=nl/mornReport/20140205) . WWD . Retrieved February 5, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "BALENCIAGA VS NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CASE TO BE SETTLED OUT OF COURT" (http://fashionista.com/2014/08/nicolas-ghesquiere-balenciaga-suit) . Fashionista.com . August 27, 2014 . Retrieved June 21, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Balenciaga Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show" (http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/balenciaga) . Vogue . October 2, 2015 . Retrieved October 7, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Singer, Maya (October 6, 2015). "Vetements's Demna Gvasalia Is Balenciaga's New Artistic Director" (https://web.archive.org/web/20161224161646/http://www.vogue.com/13357449/balenciaga-artistic-director-vetements-demna-gvasalia) . Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/13357449/balenciaga-artistic-director-vetements-demna-gvasalia/) on December 24, 2016 . Retrieved October 7, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-:1_29-0) Simpson, Tim (2023). Betting on Macau: Casino Capitalism and China's Consumer Revolution . Globalization and Community series. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press (/wiki/University_of_Minnesota_Press) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-5179-0031-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Colección Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021 (https://www.vanityteen.com/balenciaga-pre-fall-2021-collection/) April 19, 2021. Vanity Teen. ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Bieber for Balenciaga" (http://officemagazine.net/bieber-balenciaga) . Office Magazine . August 3, 2021 . Retrieved August 9, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Yancey-Bragg, N'dea (September 13, 2021). "Fashion designer Balenciaga accused of cultural appropriation over $1,190 sweatpants" (https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/fashion/2021/09/13/balenciaga-racist-sweatpants-cultural-appropriation-accusations/8320213002/) . USA TODAY . Retrieved September 14, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "After Gucci, TAG Heuer, French fashion major Balenciaga will also accept crypto payments" (https://www.msn.com/en-in/money/topstories/after-gucci-tag-heuer-french-fashion-major-balenciaga-will-also-accept-crypto-payments/ar-AAXCy4a?ocid=uxbndlbing) . MSN (/wiki/MSN) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Conti, Samantha; Chikhoune, Ryma; Nordstrom, Leigh (May 22, 2022). "Balenciaga Takes Crypto, the Rich's Charities" (https://sg.finance.yahoo.com/news/balenciaga-takes-crypto-rich-charities-050006056.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYmluZy5jb20v&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAANqYmIXhn5-oO-XyrefNdIOwH3kii1irD_OVxIbKfek2LAe475rHGWXOPmeMAJOg7rOMN8sASKWC0cafsmeNs6fr9V0wI-JhZHQwwJIBKetF6KeuWdEOaxQUVRMBzjsMwbw_rgB4wSFU-gUX8_eVHXSWfEsOBLOC__ijkwAntZY-) . Yahoo! Finance (/wiki/Yahoo!_Finance) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Hart, Jordan (October 22, 2022). "Kanye West refuses to be canceled despite Vogue and Balenciaga being the latest among these fashion companies to sever ties" (https://www.businessinsider.com/balenciaga-gap-yeezy-adidas-fashion-brands-dumped-kanye-west-2022-10) . Business Insider (/wiki/Business_Insider) . Retrieved October 22, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) "PETA Fashion Awards 2023 : Isabel Marant, SMCP et Balenciaga parmi les lauréats" (https://fashionunited.fr/actualite/business/peta-fashion-awards-2023-isabel-marant-smcp-et-balenciaga-parmi-les-laureats/2023121233770) . Fashion United . Retrieved May 7, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "Balenciaga ouvre un nouveau flagship à Tokyo" (https://fashionunited.fr/actualite/retail/balenciaga-ouvre-un-nouveau-flagship-a-tokyo/2024050334952) . Fashion United . Retrieved May 7, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Balenciaga opens first store in Cancún, Mexico" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Balenciaga-opens-first-store-in-cancun-mexico,1640092.html#ifm-bachelor-of-arts) . Fashion Network . Retrieved June 18, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Templeton, Lily (July 31, 2023). "Balenciaga Taps Isabelle Huppert, PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn as First Brand Ambassadors" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/balenciaga-first-brand-ambassadors-isabelle-huppert-pp-krit-amnuaydechkorn-1235757257/) . WWD . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "PP Krit & Isabelle Huppert Are Named As Balenciaga's First Brand Ambassadors" (https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/balenciaga-pp-krit-isabelle-huppert-first-brand-ambassadors-fashion-news) . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Balenciaga Brand Ambassadors" (https://www.balenciaga.com/en-th/balenciaga-brand-ambassadors) . www.balenciaga.com . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Balenciaga names Michelle Yeoh as new global brand ambassador" (https://insideretail.com.au/sectors/balenciaga-names-michelle-yeoh-as-new-global-brand-ambassador-202311) . Inside Retail . November 13, 2023 . Retrieved November 13, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "Nicole Kidman is the new luxury ambassador for Balenciaga" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/people/nicole-kidman-is-the-new-luxury-ambassador-for-balenciaga/2023120472909) . Fashion United . December 4, 2023 . Retrieved December 17, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Balenciaga Names Nicole Kidman as New Brand Ambassador" (https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/nicole-kidman-balenciaga-brand-ambassador-announcement) . L'Officiel USA . Retrieved December 17, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Nicole Kidman Is 'Excited' to Be Balenciaga's Newest Brand Ambassador" (https://people.com/nicole-kidman-balenciaga-brand-ambassador-8410150) . People . Retrieved December 17, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Brand Ambassador" (https://hypebeast.com/2024/1/balenciaga-kim-kardashian-official-brand-ambassador) . Hypebeast . January 22, 2024 . Retrieved January 24, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) "Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Ambassador" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kim-kardashian-balenciaga-ambassador-1236145088/) . WWD . January 22, 2024 . Retrieved January 24, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Kim Kardashian 'excited' to be Balenciaga's brand ambassador" (https://www.nation.com.pk/24-Jan-2024/kim-kardashian-excited-to-be-balenciaga-s-brand-ambassador) . The Nation . January 24, 2024 . Retrieved January 24, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Kim Kardashian reunites with Balenciaga as new brand ambassador" (https://www.usatoday.com/videos/life/fashion/2024/01/23/kim-kardashian-reunites-balenciaga-brand-ambassador/72320878007/) . USA Today . Retrieved January 24, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) "Balenciaga supports Ukraine at Paris Fashion Week" (https://www.thenationalnews.com/lifestyle/luxury/2022/03/07/balenciaga-supports-ukraine-at-paris-fashion-week/) . The National . March 7, 2022 . Retrieved March 9, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "How the fashion industry is reacting to the crisis in Ukraine" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a39296118/fashion-brands-ukraine-support/) . Harper's BAZAAR . March 4, 2022 . Retrieved March 10, 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Paton, Elizabeth; Friedman, Vanessa; Testa, Jessica (December 2, 2022). "What to Know About Balenciaga's Campaign Controversy" (https://www.nytimes.com/2022/11/28/style/balenciaga-campaign-controversy.amp.html) . New York Times . Retrieved December 3, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) "Balenciaga Apologizes for Controversial Kid's Campaign" (https://www.papermag.com/balenciaga-apologizes-kids-campaign-2658767901.html) . Paper (/wiki/Paper_(magazine)) . November 22, 2022 . Retrieved November 22, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Herlihy, Brianna (November 22, 2022). "Balenciaga sparks outrage over 'depraved' ad campaign with toddlers, teddy bears in bondage" (https://www.foxnews.com/politics/balenciaga-outrage-depraved-ad-campaign-toddlers-teddy-bears-bondage) . Fox News (/wiki/Fox_News) . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Kolirin, Lianne (November 23, 2022). "Balenciaga apologizes for adverts featuring children holding bondage bears" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/balenciaga-bondage-bears-intl-scli/index.html) . CNN (/wiki/CNN) . Retrieved November 24, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) Kavilanz, Parija; Kolirin, Lianne; Owoseje, Toyin (November 29, 2022). "Balenciaga suing production company for $25 million over controversial campaign" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/balenciaga-lawsuit-controversial-campaign/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved November 29, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Paúl, María Luisa (November 28, 2022). "After teddy bear backlash, Balenciaga announces lawsuit for separate ad" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/nation/2022/11/28/balenciaga-campaign-ad-scandal-lawsuit-porn/) . The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) . Retrieved November 28, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) "Balenciaga drops lawsuit, Demna apologises amid campaign controversy" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/balenciaga-drops-lawsuit-demna-apologises-amid-campaign-controversy) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . December 2, 2022 . Retrieved December 3, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) Dafoe, Taylor (November 30, 2022). "How Artists Matthew Barney and Michaël Borremans Found Themselves Swept Up in Controversy Over a Balenciaga Ad Campaign" (https://news.artnet.com/art-world/matthew-barney-michael-borremans-balenciaga-controversy-2219987) . Artnet (/wiki/Artnet) . Retrieved December 1, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) Jones, Carl W. "Balenciaga's controversial new campaign and the long history of 'shockvertising' (https://theconversation.com/balenciagas-controversial-new-campaign-and-the-long-history-of-shockvertising-195778) " (https://theconversation.com/balenciagas-controversial-new-campaign-and-the-long-history-of-shockvertising-195778) . The Conversation . Retrieved December 7, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-61) "Kim Kardashian sells discounted Balenciaga items after teddy bear scandal" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/kim-kardashian-sells-balenciaga-scandal-b2261158.html) . The Independent . January 12, 2023 . Retrieved January 13, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-62) Scharf, Lindzi (February 3, 2014). " (https://ew.com/article/2014/02/03/american-horror-story-coven-myrtle-snow-not-wearing-balenciaga/) American Horror Story: Coven : Myrtle Snow wasn't wearing Balenciaga" (https://ew.com/article/2014/02/03/american-horror-story-coven-myrtle-snow-not-wearing-balenciaga/) . Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) . ^ (#cite_ref-63) Woerner, Meredith (January 30, 2014). " (https://io9.gizmodo.com/american-horror-story-had-no-clue-how-to-end-this-seaso-1512413567) American Horror Story had NO CLUE how to end this season" (https://io9.gizmodo.com/american-horror-story-had-no-clue-how-to-end-this-seaso-1512413567) . io9 (/wiki/Io9) . ^ (#cite_ref-EW_Interview_64-0) Sullivan, Kevin P. (November 2, 2017). "Paul Thomas Anderson opens up about Phantom Thread for the first time" (https://ew.com/movies/2017/11/02/phantom-thread-paul-thomas-anderson-interview/) . Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . Retrieved November 3, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) "D'oh! couture: Balenciaga puts The Simpsons on Paris catwalk" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/oct/03/balenciaga-the-simpsons-paris-catwalk-fashion) . the Guardian . October 3, 2021 . Retrieved December 12, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) "Lizzo – About Damn Time lyrics" (https://genius.com/Lizzo-about-damn-time-lyrics) . Genius.com . Retrieved January 10, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) "Alexander Wang quitte la maison Balenciaga" (https://www.vogue.fr/mode/news-mode/articles/alexander-wang-quitte-la-maison-balenciaga/27189) . Vogue . July 31, 2015 . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) "Balenciaga Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/balenciaga) . Vogue . February 28, 2013 . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Demna Gvasalia, le pari branché et osé de Balenciaga" (https://www.lemonde.fr/m-mode/article/2015/10/07/demna-gvasalia-le-pari-branche-et-ose-de-balenciaga_4784390_4497335.html) . Le Monde.fr . October 7, 2015 . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Balenciaga (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Balenciaga) . Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Official website (https://www.balenciaga.com/) Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk (http://www.thelondonpaper.com/galleries/paris) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20071017231719/http://www.thelondonpaper.com/galleries/paris/) October 17, 2007, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain (http://cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/) Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga (https://web.archive.org/web/20100528051824/http://www.otis.edu/life_otis/faculty_life/faculty_development/grantee_reports/aiko_beall.html) Balenciaga (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/brands/balenciaga) – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) v t e Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) People Guccio Gucci (/wiki/Guccio_Gucci) (founder) Cristóbal Balenciaga (/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga) Aldo Gucci (/wiki/Aldo_Gucci) Maurizio Gucci (/wiki/Maurizio_Gucci) Paolo Gucci (/wiki/Paolo_Gucci) Rodolfo Gucci (/wiki/Rodolfo_Gucci) Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) Patricia Gucci (/wiki/Patricia_Gucci) Brands Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) Balenciaga Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Subsidiaries Doccia porcelain (/wiki/Doccia_porcelain) v t e Kering (/wiki/Kering) People Founder François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) Board of directors François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) (Chairman and CEO) Jean-François Palus (/w/index.php?title=Jean-Fran%C3%A7ois_Palus&action=edit&redlink=1) (Group managing director) Patricia Barbizet (/wiki/Patricia_Barbizet) (Vice-Chair of the Board of Directors) Brands Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Balenciaga Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(brand)) Qeelin (/wiki/Qeelin) Pomellato (/wiki/Pomellato) Dodo (/wiki/Pomellato#Dodo) Christopher Kane (/wiki/Christopher_Kane) Tomas Maier (/wiki/Tomas_Maier) Lindberg (/wiki/Lindberg_(eyewear)) Maui Jim (/wiki/Maui_Jim) Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) Culture Kering Foundation (/wiki/Kering_Foundation) Women in Motion (/w/index.php?title=Women_in_Motion&action=edit&redlink=1) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/145667949) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1198441429) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐m62n6 Cached time: 20240720163802 Cache expiry: 976920 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.020 seconds Real time usage: 1.304 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 5459/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 158630/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4298/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 8/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 276320/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.683/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 19655971/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1184.304 1 -total 37.85% 448.211 1 Template:Reflist 23.05% 272.980 44 Template:Cite_web 11.52% 136.482 1 Template:Short_description 9.77% 115.649 1 Template:Infobox_company 9.44% 111.849 1 Template:Lang 8.92% 105.663 1 Template:Infobox 8.28% 98.070 1 Template:Cite_American_Heritage_Dictionary 7.37% 87.274 3 Template:Navbox 7.09% 83.913 11 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1425026-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720163802 and revision id 1233863548. 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Italian luxury fashion house For other uses, see Zegna (disambiguation) (/wiki/Zegna_(disambiguation)) . Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. Trade name (/wiki/Trade_name) Ermenegildo Zegna Group Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) NYSE (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) : ZGN (https://www.nyse.com/quote/XNYS:ZGN) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) and textiles (/wiki/Textile_industry) Founded 1910 ; 114 years ago ( 1910 ) in Trivero (/wiki/Trivero) , Italy Founder Ermenegildo Zegna (/wiki/Ermenegildo_Zegna_(businessman)) Headquarters Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy 45°40′08″N 8°09′40″E / 45.6689°N 8.1610°E / 45.6689; 8.1610 Area served Worldwide Key people Ermenegildo Zegna (CEO & chairman) Alessandro Sartori (/wiki/Alessandro_Sartori) (artistic director) Revenue €1,904 million (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR23-1) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €208 million (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR23-1) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €136 million (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR23-1) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €2,767 million (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR23-1) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €901 million (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR23-1) Owner Zegna family Number of employees 7,201 (2023) [1] (#cite_note-AR23-1) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Zegna Thom Browne Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford_(brand)) Lanificio Zegna Tessitura di Novara Pettinatura di Verrone Bonotto Dondi Tessitura Ubertino Filati Biagioli Modesto Cappellificio Cervo Website zegnagroup.com (https://www.zegnagroup.com/en/) Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. , also known as Zegna ( Italian pronunciation: [ˈdzeɲɲa] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ) or the Ermenegildo Zegna Group , is an Italian luxury fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) . It was founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna in Trivero, Biella (/wiki/Trivero,_Biella) , in the Piedmont (/wiki/Piedmont) region of northern Italy (/wiki/Northern_Italy) . [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) As of 2021, it is a public company (/wiki/Public_company) that is listed on the New York Stock Exchange (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) . [3] (#cite_note-Snelling-3) History [ edit ] Foundation and early years [ edit ] Prior to the founding of the company, founder Ermenegildo Zegna's father Angelo – a former watchmaker – owned a wool mill and looms in the Alps (/wiki/Alps) of Piedmont, Italy (/wiki/Piedmont,_Italy) . [4] (#cite_note-Preston-4) Ermenegildo, together with his brothers Edoardo and Mario, founded the company in 1910 in Trivero in the Biellese Alps (/wiki/Biellese_Alps) when he was only 18, utilizing his father's looms and assets. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) In 1915 the company was renamed Fratelli Zegna di Angelo . [7] (#cite_note-7) Ermenegildo Zegna (1892–1966) Growth [ edit ] Zegna's vision was to create high-quality fabrics, so he began to source wool directly from several countries around the world, such as Mongolia (/wiki/Mongolia) , Australia, South Africa; [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) he also bought modern machinery from England. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) During the Interwar period, Zegna's business started to flourish. In the late 1920s, the Lanificio (wool mill) employed more than 700 workers, [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) growing to more than 1,000 in the late 1930s. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) In 1938 the company began to export fabrics in the US (/wiki/United_States) , through its subsidiary Zegna Woollens Corporation established in New York City. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) In 1942, Ermenegildo's sons Aldo (born in 1920) and Angelo (born in 1924) entered the company, which was renamed Ermenegildo Zegna and Sons . [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) In the mid-1950s, the company employed 1,400 workers. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) Second generation [ edit ] Ermenegildo Zegna's sons, Aldo and Angelo, took over the company in the mid-1960s. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) Under their guidance, the label both expanded its business to ready-made suits and established new plants and distribution networks abroad. In 1968, the first factory producing sleeve-units and trousers was opened in Novara (/wiki/Novara) , followed by openings in Spain, Greece, and Switzerland. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) Sales and marketing departments were also established in France, Germany, the U.K., and the U.S. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) In 1972, Zegna launched its made-to-measure service called Su Misura . [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) Zegna's attention to wool quality continued through 1960s and 1970s, as the company established the Wool Awards in Australia (1963) and the Mohair Trophy in South Africa (1970). [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) The international development strategy run by the Zegna brothers brought to the openings of the first owned boutique in Paris in 1980, followed by Milan (/wiki/Milan) in 1985. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) In 1991 Zegna became the first luxury label to open a store in China. [13] (#cite_note-13) Third generation [ edit ] 1990s to present [ edit ] During the 1990s, the third generation of the Zegna family entered the business. Angelo's son, and namesake of the company's founder, Ermenegildo "Gildo" Zegna (/wiki/Ermenegildo_Zegna_(fashion_entrepreneur)) , became CEO of the Group in 1997; [14] (#cite_note-14) his cousin Paolo became the chairman. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) Under their governance, the company began a strategy of brand extension and full verticalization. [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) From 1990 to 2020, Zegna held the majority in women’s fashion brand Agnona brand; it was subsequently sold to the Aimone family, another branch of the Zegna family, with the Zegna group keeping 30 percent. [15] (#cite_note-15) In 1991 Zegna was the first luxury brand to enter the China market, with a flagship store in Beijing; [16] (#cite_note-16) and one of the first to access the Indian market. [17] (#cite_note-17) In 2008, the Group established its new headquarters in Milan, in a building designed by architects Antonio Citterio and Gianmaria Beretta. Acquisitions [ edit ] In 2014, Zegna acquired the majority of Achill, an Australian wool (/wiki/Wool) farm counting about 12,500 sheep in its flock. [18] (#cite_note-18) In 2016, the Group acquired a majority stake in Bonotto, a high-end textile manufacturer based in Molvena, Vicenza (/wiki/Vicenza) , giving the Group the possibility to explore new areas such as furnishing and experimental fabrics. [19] (#cite_note-19) Two years later, Zegna – through its subsidiary ZECA company – took over the historic Cappellificio Cervo hat-maker. [20] (#cite_note-20) In 2018, Zegna – already present in India with three stores – together with Reliance, acquired a stake into Indian fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore (/wiki/Raghavendra_Rathore) 's firm. [21] (#cite_note-21) In the same year Zegna announced that they purchased 85% of the eponymously named Thom Browne (/wiki/Thom_Browne) , a New York City-based menswear and womenswear brand, founded in 2001. [22] (#cite_note-22) In 2019, Zegna bought a 65% stake of Italian jersey fabrics manufacturer Dondi, increasing its control over the textile supply chain (/wiki/Supply_chain) . [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) In June 2021, the Zegna Group bought a 60% majority stake in Tessitura Ubertino, a high-end fabric maker based in Piedmont (/wiki/Piedmont) . [25] (#cite_note-uk.fashionnetwork.com-25) A few weeks later, Zegna also bought a 40% share in Tessitura Biagioli Modesto, an Italian spinning mill specialized in cashmere production. [26] (#cite_note-26) Stock exchange listing [ edit ] In 2021, Zegna agreed to go public by combining with a US special-purpose acquisition company (/wiki/Special-purpose_acquisition_company) launched by European private equity group Investindustrial (/wiki/Investindustrial) . [27] (#cite_note-27) On December 20, 2021, the Zegna Group went public in New York with a valuation of $3.1 billion. [3] (#cite_note-Snelling-3) It is the first Italian fashion company to be listed in New York. [28] (#cite_note-28) Brands [ edit ] Logo since 2021 Zegna [ edit ] Zegna was founded in 1910 as a textile company (“Lanificio Zegna”). [29] (#cite_note-29) Formerly known as Ermenegildo Zegna , in 2021, in parallel with the Group's stock market listing, the brand name became simply Zegna . A new logo was also adopted, which recalls a road. This refers to the founder, who in the 1930s promoted the construction of a road in Piedmont, which today runs through the Oasi Zegna (/wiki/Oasi_Zegna) . [30] (#cite_note-30) In 2003 Zegna entered the fragrance market. [31] (#cite_note-31) Over the years, it has also signed partnerships with other major brands such as Estée Lauder (/wiki/Est%C3%A9e_Lauder_Companies) and Maserati (/wiki/Maserati) . [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) In 2014, the Zegna Group signed ten-year licensing agreements with Marcolin (/wiki/Marcolin) for the worldwide manufacture and distribution of sunglasses and eyeglasses for the Ermenegildo Zegna and Agnona brands. [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) Since June 2016, the artistic director of Zegna has been Alessandro Sartori (/wiki/Alessandro_Sartori) , who is entrusted with the creative functions of all Zegna brands and lines. [36] (#cite_note-36) In 2021, Zegna branded products accounted for 66% of Group revenues. [37] (#cite_note-:5-37) Thom Browne [ edit ] Thom Browne is a New York City-based luxury fashion brand, founded by American designer Thom Browne (/wiki/Thom_Browne) . [38] (#cite_note-38) Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired an 85% stake in Thom Browne in August 2018, at a $500 million valuation. [39] (#cite_note-39) The brand is offered in some 300 stores in 40 countries; in 2021, it accounted for 20% of Group revenues. [37] (#cite_note-:5-37) Lanificio Zegna [ edit ] Lanificio Zegna (“Zegna Wool Mill”) is located in Trivero, in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. It was founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, when he was 18. Under the Zegna Group supervision, shorn fleeces coming from several countries are processed at the Lanificio, from raw material to finishing. [40] (#cite_note-40) Tessitura di Novara [ edit ] Tessitura di Novara is a silk-weaving company acquired by Zegna in 2009. [41] (#cite_note-41) Pettinatura di Verrone [ edit ] Founded in 1960, Pettinatura di Verrone is a combing mill based in the textile district of Biella. [42] (#cite_note-42) In 2009, Zegna acquired a 15% stake of the company. [43] (#cite_note-43) Bonotto [ edit ] Originally founded in 1912 as a straw hats maker, [44] (#cite_note-:6-44) Bonotto was converted in a textile manufacturer by Nicla Donazzan and Luigi Bonotto in 1972. [45] (#cite_note-45) In 2016, Zegna Group acquired a controlling stake in the company. [46] (#cite_note-46) Bonotto is known for following a “slow factory” model, aiming at craftsmanship and rejecting standardization and low cost chain production. [44] (#cite_note-:6-44) Dondi [ edit ] Based in the Carpi textile hub, near Modena (/wiki/Modena) , Dondi was founded in the 1970s as Dondi Jersey and is a renowned manufacturer of high-end knitwear for men and women. [47] (#cite_note-47) In July 2019, the Zegna group acquired a 65% stake in Dondi, while the remaining 35% is retained by the Dondi Capelli family who still runs the business. [48] (#cite_note-48) Tessitura Ubertino [ edit ] Tessitura Ubertino is a fabric maker specialized in high-end fabrics for womenswear, such as tweed and jacquard. It was founded in 1981 and is based near Biella. In June 2021, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a 60% stake in the company; the two sons of founder Adalgiso Ubertino have retained a 40% stake. [25] (#cite_note-uk.fashionnetwork.com-25) Filati Biagioli Modesto [ edit ] In 2021 Zegna Group and Prada Group jointly acquired the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto, a company specialized in cashmere and other noble yarns. [49] (#cite_note-49) Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna was appointed chairman. [50] (#cite_note-50) Cappellificio Cervo [ edit ] Cappellificio Cervo Based in Biella, Cappellificio Cervo is a historic hattery acquired by Zegna-controlled ZECA company in 2018. [51] (#cite_note-51) Tom Ford [ edit ] Beginning in late 2022, Zegna designs and produces men's and women's collections under the Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) name following the sale of the brand's fragrance division to Estee Lauder (/wiki/Est%C3%A9e_Lauder_Companies) . As part of the sale, Tom Ford is signed to stay as creative director for at least a year. [52] (#cite_note-52) Financial data [ edit ] Ermenegildo Zegna Group is the largest menswear brand in the world by revenue. [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) As of 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna operated over 500 retail stores across the world. [55] (#cite_note-55) Following the company's strongly export-oriented strategy, exports account for over 90% of total sales. [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) Financial data in € million Years 2018 2019 2020 2021 Revenue 1,159 1,321 1,014 1,292 Net income 34 25.4 -46.5 75.3 Corporate governance [ edit ] In 2021, the Group has become a public company. Consequently, Ermenegildo (Gildo) Zegna, grandson of founder Ermenegildo, took on the role of chairman in addition to CEO, while his cousin Paolo Zegna joined the board of directors. [58] (#cite_note-58) Advertising [ edit ] A number of actors and models have advertised Zegna's lines through the years. Celebrities featured in Zegna's advertising campaigns include Oscar-winning actor Adrien Brody (/wiki/Adrien_Brody) , [59] (#cite_note-59) American model Ryan Burns, [60] (#cite_note-60) Irish actor Jamie Dornan (/wiki/Jamie_Dornan) , [61] (#cite_note-61) English actor Sam Riley (/wiki/Sam_Riley) . [62] (#cite_note-62) In 2017, Ermenegildo Zegna launched a four-chapter campaign called Defining Moments . [63] (#cite_note-63) The campaign featured Robert De Niro (/wiki/Robert_De_Niro) , McCaul Lombardi (/wiki/McCaul_Lombardi) , Benjamin Millepied (/wiki/Benjamin_Millepied) , Park Chan-wook (/wiki/Park_Chan-wook) , Yoo Ji-tae (/wiki/Yoo_Ji-tae) , Wang Deshun, Sunny Wang (/wiki/Sunny_Wang) , Javier Bardem (/wiki/Javier_Bardem) , Dev Patel (/wiki/Dev_Patel) . [64] (#cite_note-64) The first three chapters were directed by Craig McDean (/wiki/Craig_McDean) ; the last one was directed by Luca Guadagnino (/wiki/Luca_Guadagnino) . [65] (#cite_note-65) In 2019 Zegna launched the new "What does it mean to be a man today?" , campaign, featuring Mahershala Ali (/wiki/Mahershala_Ali) and Nicholas Tse (/wiki/Nicholas_Tse) , focused on the definition of modern masculinity (/wiki/Masculinity) . [66] (#cite_note-66) Zegna also produced a four-part series of short films titled A Rose Reborn , directed by Park Chan-wook in 2014. 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Retrieved 29 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Zegna and Maserati Team Up to Make the Best Dressed Car Money Can Buy" (https://www.gq.com/story/zegna-and-maserati) . GQ . 12 September 2014 . Retrieved 29 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Cynthia Martens (13 February 2014), Zegna Signs Marcolin License (https://wwd.com/feature/zegna-signs-marcolin-license-7449500-63774/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) ^ (#cite_ref-35) "Marcolin signs eyewear licence agreement with Zegna" (https://www.reuters.com/article/marcolin-zegna-idUSL5N0LI2FS20140213) . Reuters . 13 February 2014 . Retrieved 29 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) T. H. R. Staff (5 February 2016). "Alessandro Sartori Named Ermenegildo Zegna Artistic Director" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/alessandro-sartori-named-ermenegildo-zegna-862538/) . The Hollywood Reporter . 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Resilience of Luxury Companies in Times of Change . De Gruyter. ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Pettinatura di Verrone SpA - Company Profile and News" (https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/company/4279317Z:IM) . Bloomberg.com . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Turra, Alessandra (11 September 2012). "Industry Leaders Take Stake in Italian Mill" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/industry-leaders-take-stake-in-italian-mill-6274020/) . WWD . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Bonotto - Weavers and fabric decorators" (https://www.well-made.it/en/artisan/bonotto-weavers-and-fabric-decorators-molvena-vicenza/) . WellMade . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) D'Amato, Vittorio (2015). Management Innovation Roadmap . Egea. p. 35. ^ (#cite_ref-46) Zargani, Luisa (3 October 2016). "Ermenegildo Zegna Group Buys Majority Stake in Bonotto" (https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-buys-bonotto-10610917/) . WWD . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) WW, FashionNetwork com. "Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in high-end Italian knitwear producer Dondi" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-high-end-italian-knitwear-producer-dondi,1117764.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) Fraser, Kristopher (8 July 2019). "Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in Dondi" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/ermenegildo-zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-dondi/2019070844137) . FashionUnited . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Prada Group and Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquire the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto" (https://www.luxuryandfinance.it/articoli/prada-group-and-ermenegildo-zegna-group-aacquire-the-majority-shareholding-in-filati-biagioli-modesto-2021-06-22-15-58) . www.luxuryandfinance.it (in Italian) . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Wightman-Stone, Danielle (22 June 2021). "Prada and Ermenegildo Zegna buy Filati Biagioli Modesto S.p.A." (https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/prada-and-ermenegildo-zegna-buy-filati-biagioli-modesto-s-p-a/2021062256140) FashionUnited . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Salibian, Sandra (22 January 2018). "Ermenegildo Zegna Group-Controlled Company Takes Over Italian Hattery" (https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-controlled-company-takes-over-italian-hattery-11120112/) . WWD . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Ermenegildo Zegna Group to Enter a Long-Term License for Tom Ford Fashion With the Estée Lauder Companies" (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20221115006446/en/Ermenegildo-Zegna-Group-to-Enter-a-Long-Term-License-for-Tom-Ford-Fashion-With-the-Est%C3%A9e-Lauder-Companies) . www.businesswire.com . 15 November 2022 . Retrieved 7 February 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) "Recycling chic at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and techy times at Emporio Armani – Milan men's SS20 kicks off" (https://www.ft.com/content/e1d649d2-900a-11e9-b7ea-60e35ef678d2) . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Shiels, Michael Patrick. "The Secret of Sales According To Ermenegildo Zegna Chairman" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/michaelshiels/2016/12/13/the-secret-of-sales-according-to-ermenegildo-zegna-chairman/) . Forbes . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) "Ermenegildo Zegna Group - Investor Relations" (https://ir.zegnagroup.com/overview/) . ir.zegnagroup.com . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) FashionNetwork.com. "Ermenegildo Zegna's net income up 4% to €34 million for 2018" (https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-Zegna-s-net-income-up-4-to-34-million-for-2018,1092241.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) Singh, Prachi (24 April 2019). "Ermenegildo Zegna's profit increases in 2018" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/ermenegildo-zegna-s-profit-increases-in-2018/2019042442799) . fashionunited.uk . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) "Board of directors | Ermenegildo Zegna Group" (https://www.zegnagroup.com/en/corporate-governance/board-of-directors/) . Zegna Group . Retrieved 3 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) "GETTING BRODY" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/getting-brody) . British Vogue . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) Dold, Kristen (14 October 2013). "My Morning Routine: Male Model Ryan Burns" (https://www.gq.com/story/my-morning-routine-male-model-ryan-burns) . GQ . ^ (#cite_ref-61) "Model Watch: Jamie Dornan For Ermenegildo Zegna Couture" (http://www.out.com/fashion/truman-says/2013/11/13/model-jamie-dornan-ermenegildo-zegna-spring-14-stefano-pilati) . out.com . 14 November 2013 . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-62) Kilcooley-O'Halloran, Scarlett (30 May 2014). "The Life Of Riley" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/sam-riley-models-ermenegildo-zegna-autumn-winter-2015-campaign) . British Vogue . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) "A New Designer (and Robert De Niro) for a Re-energized Zegna" (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/10/fashion/ermenegildo-zegna-alessandro-sartori-robert-de-niro.html) . The New York Times . 10 February 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-64) "Classing up selvedge denim" (https://www.augustman.com/my/style/fashion/classing-up-selvedge-denim/) . Augustman . 1 August 2019 . Retrieved 12 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-65) Zargani, Luisa (28 February 2019). "Ermenegildo Zegna Unveils Final Chapter of Defining Moments Campaign" (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/ermenegildo-zegna-unveils-final-chapter-of-defining-moments-campaign-1203059029/) . Women's Wear Daily . ^ (#cite_ref-66) "Ermenegildo Zegna launches the 'What Makes A Man' Campaign" (https://www.esquireme.com/content/38681-zenga) . Esquire Middle East . 5 September 2019 . Retrieved 16 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) Luecke, Andrew D. (23 October 2014). "Ermenegildo Zegna Made a Fashion Film and It's Amazing" (https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a30512/esq-a-rose-reborn-102314/) . Esquire . ^ (#cite_ref-68) Burbano, Cristian (30 July 2014). "Ermenegildo Zegna: A Rose Reborn" (https://www.fashionbeans.com/2014/ermenegildo-zegna-a-rose-reborn/) . Fashion Beams . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Ermenegildo Zegna (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ermenegildo_Zegna) . "A Zegna Meditation" (http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1844947_1844957_1845397,00.html) , Sarah Raper Larenaudie, Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) , 29 September 2008 v t e Fabric (/wiki/Textile) Types Woven (/wiki/Woven_fabric) Abacá cloth (/wiki/Abac%C3%A1#Textiles) (Medriñaque) Aertex (/wiki/Aertex) Armazine (/wiki/Armazine) Almerían silk (/wiki/Almer%C3%ADan_silk) Barathea (/wiki/Barathea) Barkcloth (/wiki/Barkcloth) Batiste (/wiki/Batiste) Bedford cord (/wiki/Bedford_cord) Bengaline (/wiki/Bengaline) Beta cloth (/wiki/Beta_cloth) Bombazine (/wiki/Bombazine) Brilliantine (/wiki/Brilliantine_(fabric)) Broadcloth (/wiki/Broadcloth) Buckram (/wiki/Buckram) Bunting (/wiki/Bunting_(textile)) Burlap (/wiki/Hessian_fabric) Byrd Cloth (/wiki/Byrd_Cloth) C change (/wiki/C_change) Calico (/wiki/Calico) Cambric (/wiki/Cambric) Canvas (/wiki/Canvas) Chambray (/wiki/Cambric) Capilene (/wiki/Capilene) Cedar bark textile (/wiki/Cedar_bark_textile) Challis 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Traditional Korean clothing Hanbok People wearing hanbok Material Diverse Place of origin Korea (/wiki/Korea) Introduced At least since Goguryeo (/wiki/Goguryeo) period Hanbok North Korean name Chosŏn'gŭl (/wiki/Hangul) 조선옷 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%EC%A1%B0%EC%84%A0%EC%98%B7) Hancha (/wiki/Hanja) 朝鮮 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E6%9C%9D%E9%AE%AE) 옷 Transcriptions Revised Romanization (/wiki/Revised_Romanization_of_Korean) Joseon-ot McCune–Reischauer (/wiki/McCune%E2%80%93Reischauer) Chosŏn-ot South Korean name Hangul (/wiki/Hangul) 한복 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%ED%95%9C%EB%B3%B5) Hanja (/wiki/Hanja) 韓服 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E9%9F%93%E6%9C%8D) Transcriptions Revised Romanization (/wiki/Revised_Romanization_of_Korean) Hanbok McCune–Reischauer (/wiki/McCune%E2%80%93Reischauer) Hanbok The hanbok ( Korean (/wiki/Korean_language) : 한복 ; Hanja (/wiki/Hanja) : 韓服 ; lit. Korean dress) is traditional clothing (/wiki/Traditional_clothing) of the Korean people (/wiki/Koreans) . The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans; North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn-ot ( 조선옷 , lit. ' Korean clothes ' ). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora (/wiki/Korean_diaspora) , especially by Koreans in China (/wiki/Koreans_in_China) . [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Koryo-saram (/wiki/Koryo-saram) - ethnic Koreans living in the lands of the former Soviet Union - also retained a hanbok tradition. [4] (#cite_note-4) Koreans have worn hanbok since antiquity. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea (/wiki/Three_Kingdoms_of_Korea) period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the Proto-Koreanic people (/wiki/Yemaek) of what is now northern Korea (/wiki/Geography_of_North_Korea) and Manchuria (/wiki/Manchuria) . The clothes are also depicted on tomb murals from the Goguryeo (/wiki/Goguryeo) period (4th to 6th century AD), with the basic structure of the hanbok established since at latest this period. [5] (#cite_note-Dead-Goguryeo_Tomb_Murals_2007-5) The ancient hanbok consisted of a jeogori (/wiki/Jeogori) (top), baji (/wiki/Baji_(clothing)) (pants), chima (/wiki/Chima_(clothing)) (skirt), and the po (/wiki/Po_(clothing)) (coat). The basic structure of hanbok developed to facilitate ease of movement; it integrated many motifs of Mu-ism (/wiki/Korean_shamanism) . [6] (#cite_note-:16-6) For thousands of years, the hanbok most people wore was pure white (/wiki/White_clothing_in_Korea) with no ornamentation. More ornate hanbok was typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings. The color white was seen as pure. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) In some periods, commoners ( seomin ) were even forbidden (/wiki/Sumptuary_law) from wearing colorful hanbok regularly. [11] (#cite_note-:73-11) : 104 [12] (#cite_note-:83-12) [13] (#cite_note-:103-13) However, on the other hand, during the Joseon (/wiki/Joseon) Dynasty (1392-1897) and the Japanese occupation of Korea (/wiki/Korea_under_Japanese_rule) (1910-1945), there was also an attempt to ban white clothes and to encourage non-bleached dyed clothes, which ultimately failed. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) Modern hanbok are typically patterned after the hanbok worn in the Joseon dynasty (/wiki/Joseon) , [6] (#cite_note-:16-6) especially those worn by the nobility and royalty. [18] (#cite_note-:7-18) : 104 [19] (#cite_note-:8-19) There is some regional variation in hanbok design between South Korea, North Korea, and Koreans in China (/wiki/Koreans_in_China) as a result of the relative isolation from each other that these groups experienced in the late-20th century. [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 246 [21] (#cite_note-:24-21) Despite this, the designs have somewhat converged again since the 1990s, [22] (#cite_note-22) especially due to increased cultural and economic exchange after the Chinese economic reform (/wiki/Chinese_economic_reform) [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 246 of 1978 onwards. Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear hanbok for formal or semi-formal occasions and for events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (/wiki/Ministry_of_Culture,_Sports_and_Tourism) established Hanbok Day to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the hanbok . [24] (#cite_note-24) Etymology [ edit ] The term hanbok appeared relatively recently and is connected with the historical context in which it appeared. The term emerged in the late Joseon period, when the Empire of Japan (/wiki/Empire_of_Japan) and other western countries competed to place Korea under their own sphere of influence. The first known use of the term is in an 1881 document from the late Joseon period entitled Chŏngch'iilgi ( 《정치일기》 ). [25] (#cite_note-:52-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) There, hanbok is used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese- and Western-style clothing. Hanbok was again used in an 1895 document to distinguish between Korean and Japanese clothing. These two usages predate the Korean Empire's (/wiki/Korean_Empire) popularization of the use of the hanja (/wiki/Hanja) character Han ( Hanja (/wiki/Hanja) : 韓 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E9%9F%93) ) to describe the Korean people. [ citation needed ] Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character Han in words that described Korean clothing, such as Han'gugŭibok ( 한국의복 ), Han'gugyebok ( 한국예복 ), and Taehannyŏbok ( 대한녀복 ). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article to describe the clothing of one of the righteous armies (/wiki/Righteous_army) . Other words with similar meanings, such as uri-ot ( 우리옷 ) and chosŏn-ot ( 조선옷 ), were concurrently used. Since the division of Korea (/wiki/Division_of_Korea) , South Korea has preferred the term hanbok while North Korea has preferred the term Chosŏn-ot . This reflects the general trend of South Korea's preference for the term Han and North Korea's for Chosŏn . [ citation needed ] Components and design [ edit ] A diagram of the hanbok 's anatomy 1. hwajang 2. godae 3. somae buri 4. somae 5. goreum 6. u 7. doryeon 8, 11. jindong 9. gil 10. baerae 12. git 13. dongjeong For women, traditional hanbok consist of the jeogori (/wiki/Jeogori) (top) and the chima (/wiki/Chima_(clothing)) (skirt). The ensemble is often known as ' chima jeogori (/wiki/Chima_jeogori) ' . For men, hanbok consist of jeogori and loose-fitting baji (trousers). [27] (#cite_note-KBS-27) There are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats on top of this ensemble. For women, there are Jangsam , Dansam , Wonsam (/wiki/Wonsam) , and more. For men, some examples are durumagi (/wiki/Durumagi) , dopo (/wiki/Dopo_(clothing)) , Danryeong-ui , Joong-chimak , Sochang-ui , Daechang-ui , etc. Jeogori [ edit ] Main article: Jeogori (/wiki/Jeogori) Jeogori and chima The jeogori (저고리) is the basic upper garment of the hanbok , worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body. [28] (#cite_note-Doosan-28) [29] (#cite_note-HanbokBritannica-29) There are various styles and types of jeogori varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape. [30] (#cite_note-Britannica-30) [31] (#cite_note-Jeogori_Reborns_with_New_Visions_of_a_Thousand-31) The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil , git , dongjeong , goreum and sleeves. Gil ( 길 ) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and git ( 깃 ) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong ( 동정 ) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum ( 고름 ) are fabric-strings that tie the jeogori . [27] (#cite_note-KBS-27) Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong ( 끝동 ), a different colored cuff (/wiki/Cuff) placed at the end of the sleeves. Contemporary jeogori are presently designed with various lengths. Goreum [ edit ] Goreum (고름) refers to the strings that fasten clothes together. Traditionally, there are many types of goreum. Fabric goreum were potentially used since Gojoseon (/wiki/Gojoseon) . They were originally practical but often decorative. Silla (/wiki/Silla) had regulations against types of Dae (belts) and decorative goreum for each Golpoom (/wiki/Bone-rank_system) . Southern parts of Korea, including Silla (/wiki/Silla) , had a colorful goreum on the front of the neck, which influenced Yayoi (/wiki/Yayoi_period) culture. Parts of Goguryeo (/wiki/Goguryeo) style had a fabric goreum loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the jeogori was usually wrapped across the front, the outside goreum was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in Joseon dynasty (/wiki/Joseon_dynasty) , the goreum slowly moved to the front of the jeogori . In the 20th century, the goreum became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the jeogori and was coined the Ot-goreum. Danchu [ edit ] Danchu (buttons) can also be used as an alternative to Goreum. There are many types of danchu. One example is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like Manchurian (/wiki/Qing_dynasty) buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest). [32] (#cite_note-32) Chima [ edit ] Main article: Chima (clothing) (/wiki/Chima_(clothing)) Chima (치마) refers to "skirt", and is also called sang ( 裳 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E8%A3%B3) ) or gun ( 裙 (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E8%A3%99) ) in hanja (/wiki/Hanja) . [33] (#cite_note-EncyKorea-33) [28] (#cite_note-Doosan-28) [30] (#cite_note-Britannica-30) The underskirt, or petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) layer, is called sokchima . Chima-malgi is the waistband that trims the top of the chima . Chima were typically made from rectangular panels that were pleated (/wiki/Pleat) or gathered (/wiki/Gather_(sewing)) into the chima-malgi (waistband). [34] (#cite_note-CHA-34) This waistband also had goreum strings for fastening the skirt around the body. [35] (#cite_note-CHA2-35) From the Goguryeo to Joseon periods, chima have been striped, pleated, patchworked, and gored (/wiki/Gore_(segment)) . [28] (#cite_note-Doosan-28) Sokchima was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added, [36] (#cite_note-GoodPeople-36) later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima . [37] (#cite_note-GoodPeople2-37) By the mid-20th century, some outer chima also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the jeogori . [38] (#cite_note-RecycleLACMARedSkirt-38) [39] (#cite_note-RecycleLACMA-39) Baji [ edit ] Main article: Baji (clothing) (/wiki/Baji_(clothing)) Baji (바지) refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok . It is the term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the Three kingdoms period (/wiki/Three_Kingdoms_of_Korea) . [40] (#cite_note-asia-planet.net-40) It functions as modern trousers do and the term baji is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants. The baji-malgi is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of goreum . Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on. Sokgot [ edit ] Main article: Sokgot (/wiki/Sokgot) Sokgot ( 속곳 ) is a collective noun for various types of traditional Korean (/wiki/Korean_culture) undergarments (/wiki/Underwear) . They were worn as part of a hanbok before the import of Western-style underwear. Women usually wore several layers of undergarments, the more layers they had the richer they were. [41] (#cite_note-41) Undergarments were considered very important, thus it happened that the quality and material of the underwear was better than that of the visible outer layers. [42] (#cite_note-hanstyle-42) Deot-ot [ edit ] Deot-ot refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the jeogori . There are many varieties other than the ones listed here. Po [ edit ] Main articles: Po (clothing) (/wiki/Po_(clothing)) and Durumagi (/wiki/Durumagi) Po ( 포/袍 ) is a generic term referring to an outer robe (/wiki/Robe) or overcoat (/wiki/Overcoat) . There are two general types of po , the Korean type and the Chinese type. [43] (#cite_note-Encyclopedia_of_Korean_Culture-43) The Korean type is a common style from the Three Kingdoms of Korea (/wiki/Three_Kingdoms_of_Korea) period, and it is used in the modern day. [28] (#cite_note-Doosan-28) [43] (#cite_note-Encyclopedia_of_Korean_Culture-43) The Chinese type consist of different types of po from mainland China. [43] (#cite_note-Encyclopedia_of_Korean_Culture-43) Durumagi is a type of po that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over jeogori and baji . It is also called jumagui , juchaui , or juui . [33] (#cite_note-EncyKorea-33) [28] (#cite_note-Doosan-28) [44] (#cite_note-Britannica1-44) Banbi [ edit ] Banbi ( 반비/半臂 , lit. 'half sleeve') are a type Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) that originated from the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) . Banbi refers to variety of short sleeved garments worn on top of inner garments, typically the Yuanling pao (Chinese: 圓領袍, 'round collar robe'). Numerous outer half-sleeved Banbi can be seen in ancient Tang-era paintings, murals, and statues. [45] (#cite_note-45) Bigap [ edit ] A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from Mongolian (/wiki/Mongol_Empire) clothing worn during the Goryeo (/wiki/Goryeo) period. [46] (#cite_note-46) Baeja and kwaeja [ edit ] Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. Kwaeja is interchangeable with baeja, but kwaeja often refers to men's clothing. Dapho [ edit ] Main article: Dapho (/wiki/Dapho) The dapho (/wiki/Dapho) ( 도포/道袍 ) is a short-sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform. Jokki [ edit ] Jokki ( 조끼 ) is a type of vest (/wiki/Vest) , while magoja (/wiki/Magoja) is an outer jacket. The jokki was created around late Joseon dynasty (/wiki/Joseon_dynasty) , as Western culture (/wiki/Western_culture) began to affect Korea. Magoja [ edit ] Main article: Magoja (/wiki/Magoja) Magoja (마고자) does not have a git , the band of fabric trimming the collar. [27] (#cite_note-KBS-27) The magoja for men sometimes has seop ( Korean (/wiki/Korean_language) : 섶 , overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's magoja , with both sides open at the bottom. A magoja can be made of silk (/wiki/Silk) and often adorned with danchu which are usually made from amber (/wiki/Amber) . In men's magoja , buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's magoja . [44] (#cite_note-Britannica1-44) It was introduced to Korea after Heungseon Daewongun (/wiki/Heungseon_Daewongun) , the father of King Gojong (/wiki/Gojong_of_Korea) , returned from his political exile (/wiki/Exile) in Tianjin (/wiki/Tianjin) in 1887. [44] (#cite_note-Britannica1-44) [47] (#cite_note-Life_in_Korea-47) Long sleeved Magoja were derived from the magwae (/wiki/Magua_(clothing)) he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, magoja became popular in Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori" (literally "an outer jeogori ") or magwae . [44] (#cite_note-Britannica1-44) Children's hanbok [ edit ] Children's hanbok Traditionally, Kkachi durumagi (/wiki/Kkachi_durumagi) (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as seolbim ( 설빔 ), new clothing and shoes worn on the Korean celebration of Korean New Year (/wiki/Korean_New_Year) , while at present, it is worn as a ceremonial garment for dol (/wiki/Doljanchi) , the celebration for a baby's first birthday. [48] (#cite_note-EncyKorea_Kkachi-48) [49] (#cite_note-dol-49) It is a children's colorful overcoat. [50] (#cite_note-50) It was worn mostly by young boys. [51] (#cite_note-51) The clothes is also called obangjang durumagi which means "an overcoat of five directions". [48] (#cite_note-EncyKorea_Kkachi-48) It was worn over jeogori (a jacket) and jokki (a vest), while the wearer could put jeonbok (/wiki/Jeonbok) (a long vest) over it. Kkachi durumagi was also worn along with headgear (/wiki/Headgear) such as bokgeon (/wiki/Bokgeon) (a peaked cloth hat), [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) hogeon (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or gulle (/wiki/Gulle) (decorative headgear) for young girls. [28] (#cite_note-Doosan-28) [ need quotation to verify ] [54] (#cite_note-tour2korea-54) Children in Washington DC (/wiki/Washington_DC) wearing hanbok Foreign influences in design [ edit ] The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and indigenous (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples) styles, including significant influences from various Chinese dynasties (/wiki/Chinese_dynasties) , resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the simui (/wiki/Shenyi) from Song dynasty (/wiki/Song_dynasty) , [55] (#cite_note-55) gwanbok (/wiki/Gwanbok) (관복 or 단령) worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the Tang (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) , [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) [57] (#cite_note-:17-57) Song (/wiki/Song_dynasty) , [57] (#cite_note-:17-57) and Ming dynasties (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) , [58] (#cite_note-58) and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of Tang (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) and Ming (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) dynasties. [59] (#cite_note-59) [60] (#cite_note-60) The cheolick (#Cheolique) , which originated in Mongolia, took the form of everyday clothing [61] (#cite_note-61) and military uniform. The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo (/wiki/Goryeo) hanbok had cultural influence on some clothing of Yuan dynasty (/wiki/Fashion_in_Yuan_dynasty) worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing [62] (#cite_note-:102-62) and in the Yuan imperial court [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) ). [64] (#cite_note-64) Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes. [65] (#cite_note-Daum_Global-65) Design and social position [ edit ] Hwarot (/wiki/Hwarot) , bride clothes The choice of hanbok can also signal social position. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions. The material of the hanbok also signaled status. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials. [66] (#cite_note-66) In addition, special variants were made for officials and shamans. [40] (#cite_note-asia-planet.net-40) History [ edit ] Three Kingdoms of Korea [ edit ] 7th-century Chinese Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea (/wiki/Three_Kingdoms_of_Korea) period (57 BC to 668 AD). [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-68) [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) [70] (#cite_note-KCIS2-70) The origin of ancient hanbok can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and Manchuria (/wiki/Manchuria) . [71] (#cite_note-Greenwood2-71) Some hypothesize that the hanbok of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the Eurasian Steppes (/wiki/Eurasian_Steppes) ( Scythian clothing (/wiki/Scythian_clothing) ), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the Steppe Route (/wiki/Steppe_Route) . [72] (#cite_note-kim_7_154-72) [73] (#cite_note-Lee,_Kyung-Ja,_20035-73) [74] (#cite_note-스키타이_복식_유형_및_형태에_관한_연구_-_고대_한국과의_관계-74) Reflecting its nomadic (/wiki/Nomad) origins in western and northern Asia, ancient hanbok shared structural similarities with hobok type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia , designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement, [25] (#cite_note-:52-25) [75] (#cite_note-:23-75) [76] (#cite_note-한국의상디자인학회지22-76) such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket. [77] (#cite_note-:20-77) However, although the ancient hanbok reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient hanbok , a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised. [77] (#cite_note-:20-77) Goguryeo [ edit ] Early forms of hanbok can be seen in the art of Goguryeo tomb (/wiki/Goguryeo_tombs) murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD. [70] (#cite_note-KCIS2-70) [71] (#cite_note-Greenwood2-71) [76] (#cite_note-한국의상디자인학회지22-76) [78] (#cite_note-78) Trousers, long jackets and twii (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day, [79] (#cite_note-79) except for the length and the ways the jeogori opening was closed as over the years. [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) The jeogori opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream. [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the jeogori at the right became a standard practice. [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) The length of the female jeogori also varied. [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) For example, women's jeogori seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's jeogori . [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) In early Goguryeo, the jeogori jackets were hip-length Kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) tunics belted at the waist, and the po overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula (/wiki/Noin-Ula_burial_site) . [ citation needed ] Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts. [80] (#cite_note-:15-80) Two types of hwa (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee. [ citation needed ] During this period, conical hat (/wiki/Pointed_hat) and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers, [81] (#cite_note-81) were worn as headgear. [74] (#cite_note-스키타이_복식_유형_및_형태에_관한_연구_-_고대_한국과의_관계-74) Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky. [ citation needed ] The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ochaebok . [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) The precursor of what is now known as the durumagi (/wiki/Durumagi) was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern asian. [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) Originally the durumagi was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population. [69] (#cite_note-:82-69) In Muyong-chong murals of Goguryeo (/wiki/Goguryeo) , there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese water-sleeves (/wiki/Water_sleeves) , was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day Korean court dances (/wiki/Korean_dance) and mu-ism (/wiki/Korean_shamanism) rituals. [ citation needed ] A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom (/wiki/Capital_Cities_and_Tombs_of_the_Ancient_Koguryo_Kingdom) , 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China. Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long jeogori jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD. North-South States period [ edit ] In the North-South States Period (/wiki/North-South_States_Period) (698–926 AD), Silla (/wiki/Silla) and Balhae (/wiki/Balhae) adopted dallyeong (/wiki/Dallyeong) , a circular-collar robe (/wiki/Circular-collar_robe) from the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) of China. [82] (#cite_note-82) [83] (#cite_note-:1-83) In Silla, the dallyeong (/wiki/Round_collar_robe) was introduced by Muyeol of Silla (/wiki/Muyeol_of_Silla) in the second year of queen Jindeok of Silla (/wiki/Jindeok_of_Silla) . [83] (#cite_note-:1-83) [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) The dallyeong style from China was used as gwanbok (/wiki/Gwanbok) , a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and dragon robe (/wiki/Dragon_robe) , a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon. [83] (#cite_note-:1-83) United Silla [ edit ] The Silla (/wiki/Silla) Kingdom unified the Three Kingdoms (/wiki/Three_Kingdoms_of_Korea) in 668 AD. The Unified Silla (/wiki/Later_Silla) (668-935 AD) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from Tang (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of Luoyang (/wiki/Luoyang) which included Chinese dress styles, the second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western Empire silhouette (/wiki/Empire_silhouette) . King Muyeol of Silla (/wiki/Muyeol_of_Silla) personally travelled to the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), danryunpo (/wiki/Round_collar_robe) (團領袍; round collar gown), banbi (/wiki/Banbi) , baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾). [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are danryunpo and bokdu . [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of Queen Jindeok (/wiki/Jindeok_of_Silla) ; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty. [84] (#cite_note-84) In 664 AD, Munmu of Silla (/wiki/Munmu_of_Silla) decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) ; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) . [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the jeogori . [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) [85] (#cite_note-:21-85) The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court. [80] (#cite_note-:15-80) [86] (#cite_note-:9-86) The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, King Heundeog (/wiki/Heungdeok_of_Silla) enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) Reconstruction of Silla (/wiki/Silla) king's and queen's attire Gold waist belt used by royalty of Silla. Women figures wearing Tang-dynasty style clothing, Silla. Balhae [ edit ] Balhae (/wiki/Balhae) (698–926 AD) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous Mohe people (/wiki/Mohe_people) elements. [87] (#cite_note-:4-87) Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition. [87] (#cite_note-:4-87) However, after Mun of Balhae (/wiki/Mun_of_Balhae) , Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the putou and round collared gown for its official attire. [87] (#cite_note-:4-87) Male everyday clothing was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts. [87] (#cite_note-:4-87) Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ungyeon (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after the demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty. [87] (#cite_note-:4-87) People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm. [87] (#cite_note-:4-87) Goryeo dynasty [ edit ] The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect hanbok still used by the commoners, [ citation needed ] In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class. [88] (#cite_note-Koreana2-88) [89] (#cite_note-Hanstyle2-89) The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods. [90] (#cite_note-90) In Goryeo Buddhist paintings (/wiki/Goryeo_Buddhist_paintings) , the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the Song dynasty (/wiki/Song_dynasty) . [91] (#cite_note-:72-91) The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references. [92] (#cite_note-92) On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in Yuan dynasty (/wiki/Yuan_dynasty) rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo. [91] (#cite_note-:72-91) The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when Goryeo was under Mongol rule (/wiki/Goryeo_under_Mongol_rule) (1270 –1356). [93] (#cite_note-:18-93) However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the Royal Palace Mandala , the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court. [93] (#cite_note-:18-93) Details of the Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting. [94] (#cite_note-94) Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara , Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD. [93] (#cite_note-:18-93) Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting Royal Palace Mandala , late Goryeo Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty. Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing simui (/wiki/Shenyi) . Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the Goryeo (/wiki/Goryeo) dynasty signed a peace treaty with the Mongol Empire (/wiki/Mongol_Empire) in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) [73] (#cite_note-Lee,_Kyung-Ja,_20035-73) [95] (#cite_note-koreanculture.org-95) [96] (#cite_note-96) A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the kings of Goryeo. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) The Yuan dynasty (/wiki/Yuan_dynasty) princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called Mongolpung . [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the Yuan dynasty (/wiki/Yuan_dynasty) and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) After the fall of the Yuan dynasty (/wiki/Yuan_dynasty) , only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared. [56] (#cite_note-:22-56) As a result of the Mongol influence, the chima skirt was shortened, and jeogori was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the goreum g (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the twii (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly. [ citation needed ] The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the Mongols (/wiki/Mongols) court of the Yuan dynasty (/wiki/Yuan_dynasty) (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, Khanbaliq (/wiki/Khanbaliq) . [97] (#cite_note-97) [98] (#cite_note-98) [99] (#cite_note-99) However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty. [100] (#cite_note-100) [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were kongnyo (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) [101] (#cite_note-101) About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as kongnyo against their will. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was Empress Gi (/wiki/Empress_Gi) who was elevated as empress in 1365. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids. [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as Goryeoyang ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short banbi (/wiki/Banbi) (半臂) with square collar (方領). [63] (#cite_note-:0-63) [62] (#cite_note-:102-62) However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions. [62] (#cite_note-:102-62) According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [ Koryŏ yang ] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further." [102] (#cite_note-102) Joseon dynasty [ edit ] This section needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Hanbok) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. ( September 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early Joseon dynasty (/wiki/Joseon) kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals. [103] (#cite_note-:19-103) Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress. [103] (#cite_note-:19-103) After the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98) (/wiki/Japanese_invasions_of_Korea_(1592%E2%80%9398)) or Imjin War , economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric. [104] (#cite_note-Chosun_Ilbo2-104) Women's everyday wear [ edit ] Ordinary people's clothing, [93] (#cite_note-:18-93) Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD, Early Joseon Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398); [105] (#cite_note-105) the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon. [106] (#cite_note-106) The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the Ming dynasty (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing. [107] (#cite_note-:12-107) During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when chima was rather slim and jeogori baggy and long, reaching well below waist level. In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status. [108] (#cite_note-108) Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin. [109] (#cite_note-:11-109) In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori. [110] (#cite_note-110) [109] (#cite_note-:11-109) [111] (#cite_note-111) The 15th century AD chima-jeogori style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima. [109] (#cite_note-:11-109) 15th century lady 15th century lady However, by the 16th century, the jeogori had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries. [112] (#cite_note-112) [113] (#cite_note-Contemporary_Artwork_of_Women2-113) [104] (#cite_note-Chosun_Ilbo2-104) In the 16th century, women's jeogori was long, wide, and covered the waist. [114] (#cite_note-저고리2-114) The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened: it was approximately 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm. [114] (#cite_note-저고리2-114) A heoritti (허리띠) or jorinmal (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts. [114] (#cite_note-저고리2-114) The trend of wearing a short jeogori with a heoritti was started by the gisaeng (/wiki/Gisaeng) and soon spread to women of the upper class. [114] (#cite_note-저고리2-114) Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they revealed their breasts (/wiki/Toplessness) by removing a cloth to make breastfeeding more convenient. [115] (#cite_note-115) As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women". [85] (#cite_note-:21-85) During the 17th and 18th centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. In the 18th century, the jeogori became very short to the point that the waistband of the chima was visible; this style was first seen on female entertainers at the Joseon court. [107] (#cite_note-:12-107) The jeogori continued to shorten until it reached the modern times jeogori -length; i.e. just covering the breasts. [109] (#cite_note-:11-109) The fullness of the skirt reached its extreme around 1800. During the 19th century fullness of the skirt was achieved around the knees and ankles thus giving chima a triangular or an A-shaped silhouette, which is still the preferred style to this day. Many undergarments (/wiki/Sokgot) such as darisokgot, soksokgot, dansokgot , and gojengi were worn underneath to achieve desired forms. Women's hanbok consists of chima skirt and jeogori shirt by Shin Yunbok Full skirt and tight jeogori were considered fashionable. 18th century. A rare painting of yangban (/wiki/Yangban) women. Yangban ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried Seonbi (/wiki/Seonbi) scholars. 18th century. Soksokgot , similar to a petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) , is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century. Dancing together with two swords At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced magoja (/wiki/Magoja) , a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over jeogori to this day. A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening jeogori experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok . Modern jeogori are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. Heoritti are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons. Men's everyday wear [ edit ] Male aristocrat dress: a gat (/wiki/Gat_(hat)) (a horsehair (/wiki/Horsehair) hat) on the head and yellow dopo (/wiki/Dopo_(clothing)) (overcoat) Men's hanbok saw little change compared to women's hanbok . The form and design of jeogori and baji hardly changed. In contrast, men's lengthy outwear, the equivalent of the modern overcoat, underwent a dramatic change. Before the late 19th century, yangban men almost always wore jungchimak when traveling. Jungchimak had very lengthy sleeves, and its lower part had splits on both sides and occasionally on the back so as to create a fluttering effect in motion. To some this was fashionable, but to others, namely stoic scholars, it was nothing but pure vanity. Daewon-gun successfully banned jungchimak as a part of his clothes reformation program and jungchimak eventually disappeared. Durumagi (/wiki/Durumagi) , which was previously worn underneath jungchimak and was basically a house dress, replaced jungchimak as the formal outwear for yangban men. Durumagi differs from its predecessor in that it has tighter sleeves and does not have splits on either sides or back. It is also slightly shorter in length. Men's hanbok has remained relatively the same since the adoption of durumagi . In 1884, the Gapsin Dress Reform took place. [116] (#cite_note-:13-116) Under the 1884's decree of King Gojong (/wiki/Gojong_of_Korea) , only narrow-sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the durumagi (/wiki/Durumagi) or chaksuui or ju-ui (周衣). [116] (#cite_note-:13-116) Hats was an essential part formal dress and the development of official hats became even more pronounced during this era due to the emphasis of Confucian values. [117] (#cite_note-:6-117) The gat (/wiki/Gat_(hat)) was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon-era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan. [117] (#cite_note-:6-117) The popularity of those Chinese hats may have partially been due to the promulgation of Confucianism and because they were used by literary figures and scholars in China. [117] (#cite_note-:6-117) In 1895, King Gojong decreed adult Korean men to cut their hair short and western-style clothing were allowed and adopted. [116] (#cite_note-:13-116) A man wearing jungchimak . 18th century. The "fluttering" effect. 18th century. Waryonggwan and hakchangui in 1863 Photograph taken in 1863 Photograph taken in 1863 Bokgeon and simui in 1880 Black bokgeon and blue dopo in 1880 Jeongjagwan (/wiki/Jeongjagwan) on the head A Korean in mourning clothes Korean men, 1871 Young Korean man of the middle class (/wiki/Chungin) , 1904 Korean mother and daughter, 1910–1920 Material and color [ edit ] Heuk dallyeongpo in the late 18th century The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven ramie (/wiki/Ramie) cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best. The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white, but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal. The color of chima showed the wearer's social position and statement. For example, a navy color indicated that a woman had son(s). Only the royal family could wear clothing with geumbak (/wiki/Geumbak) -printed patterns (gold leaf) on the bottom of the chima. Headdresses [ edit ] A woman wearing a wig, or gache (/wiki/Gache) Both male and female wore their hair in a long braid (/wiki/Braid) until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted; man's hair was knotted in a topknot called sangtu (상투) on the top of the head, and the woman's hair was rolled into a ball shaped form or komeori and was set just above the nape of the neck. A long pin, or binyeo (/wiki/Binyeo) (비녀), was worn in women's knotted hair as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the binyeo varied according to the wearer's class and status. And also wore a ribbon or daenggi (/wiki/Daenggi) (댕기) to tie and to decorate braided hair. Women wore a jokduri (/wiki/Jokduri) on their wedding day and wore an ayam (/wiki/Ayam_(cap)) for protection from the cold. Men wore a gat (/wiki/Gat_(hat)) , which varied according to class and status. Before the 19th century, women of high social backgrounds and gisaeng (/wiki/Gisaeng) wore wigs ( gache (/wiki/Gache) ). Like their Western counterparts, Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more desirable and aesthetic. Such was the women's frenzy for the gache that in 1788 King Jeongjo (/wiki/Jeongjo_of_Joseon) banned by royal decree the use of gache , as they were deemed contrary to the Korean Confucian (/wiki/Korean_Confucianism) values of reserve and restraint. [118] (#cite_note-118) Owing to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses ( nae-oe-seugae ) to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include suegaechima (a headdress which looked like a chima but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper-class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the jang-ot (/wiki/Jang-ot) , and the neoul (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen). [119] (#cite_note-119) In the 19th century yangban women began to wear jokduri , a small hat that replaced gache . However gache enjoyed vast popularity in kisaeng circles well into the end of the century. Later development [ edit ] Today's hanbok is the direct descendant of hanbok patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle-class in the Joseon (/wiki/Joseon) period, [86] (#cite_note-:9-86) [120] (#cite_note-120) specifically the late 19th century. Hanbok had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical hanbok . Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, hanbok is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child. Modern usage [ edit ] Hanbok has been featured in international haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) ; on the catwalk, in 2015 when Karl Lagerfield (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) dressed Korean models for Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) , and during Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) in photography by Phil Oh (/w/index.php?title=Phil_Oh&action=edit&redlink=1) . [121] (#cite_note-121) It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) and Jessica Alba (/wiki/Jessica_Alba) , and athletes, such as tennis player Venus Williams (/wiki/Venus_Williams) and football player Hines Ward (/wiki/Hines_Ward) . [122] (#cite_note-122) Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as Lisa Ling (/wiki/Lisa_Ling) and Miss Asia (/wiki/Miss_Asia_Pageant) 2014, Eriko Lee Katayama (/w/index.php?title=Eriko_Lee_Katayama&action=edit&redlink=1) . [123] (#cite_note-:3-123) It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by Sandra Oh (/wiki/Sandra_Oh) at the SAG Awards (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award) , and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the Emmy Awards (/wiki/Emmy_Award) . [124] (#cite_note-124) South Korea [ edit ] The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers. [125] (#cite_note-125) Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent K-pop (/wiki/K-pop) artists like Blackpink (/wiki/Blackpink) and BTS (/wiki/BTS) , notably in their music videos for " How You Like That (/wiki/How_You_Like_That) " and "Idol." (/wiki/Idol_(BTS_song)) [126] (#cite_note-126) [127] (#cite_note-127) In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge. In Busan, the APEC South Korea 2005 (/wiki/APEC_South_Korea_2005) provided hanbok for delegates of the 21 member economies of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation. North Korea [ edit ] Joseon-ot in North Korea Women in joseon-ot, North Korea, 2017 Newlywed bride in hanbok, North Korea Women wearing uniform joseon-ot, North Korea Little girls wearing chima-jeogori, North Korea, Pyeongyang Hanbok is also worn in present-day North Korea (/wiki/North_Korea) where it is known as Joseon-ot ( 조선옷 ; 朝鮮옷 ; Joseon-ot ). [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) The Joseon-ot thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of Kim Jong Un (/wiki/Kim_Jong_Un) . [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) The Joseon-ot is currently typically worn during special occasions, e.g. weddings, [129] (#cite_note-:28-129) : 49 and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) It is also mandated that women wear Joseon-ot when attending National events, such as Kim Jong Il (/wiki/Kim_Jong_Il) 's birthday (16 February), International women's day (/wiki/International_Women%27s_Day) (8 March), Kim Il Sung's birthday (/wiki/Day_of_the_Sun) (15 April), Foundation Day (9 September). [129] (#cite_note-:28-129) : 78 White colored hanbok is often used as the color white has been the traditionally favored by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) The chima-jeogori remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) The uniform of female university students has been a black-and-white chima-jeogori since the early to mid 2000s. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) The chima can often be found at a length of about 30 cm from the ground for practical purposes in order to facilitate movements and to ensure that women could wear it during their daily workday with ease and comfort; this decrease in skirt length also gives a sense of modern style. [129] (#cite_note-:28-129) : 75 The Joseon-ot patterns also have special meanings which are given by the North Koreans. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) Generally, young people in North Korea like floral prints and bright colours, while the older generations favour simple styles of clothing and solid colours. [130] (#cite_note-:27-130) : 376 The chima-jeogori in North Korea is sometimes characterized by its use of floral patterns which are often added to the sleeves of the jeogori and to the chima . [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) Azaleas (/wiki/Azalea) , in particular, are favoured in Yongbyon (/wiki/Nyongbyon_County) due to their association with the emotional poem Azaleas (《 진달래꽃 》) by Kim So-wol (/wiki/Kim_Sowol) . [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) Men occasionally wear joseon-ot . [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) However, joseon-ot are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people who cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at US$20 while the joseon-ot made in China (/wiki/China) with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately US$3000. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in joseon-ot by their parents. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) History [ edit ] The 1950s and 1960s also saw women from the upper-class wear Joseon-ot made out of rayon (/wiki/Rayon) while a black-and-white chima-jeogori consisting of a black long-length chima and white jeogori were used in the 1950s and 1960s where it was generally worn by women; [131] (#cite_note-:02-131) this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the Joseon dynasty (/wiki/Joseon) period. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) This combination is still representative of the ideal woman and remains the official outfit for women in North Korea to this day. [129] (#cite_note-:28-129) : 77 In the 1980s, the Joseon-ot became the official attire of women when attending ceremonies while western-style clothing became the everyday, ordinary clothing. [131] (#cite_note-:02-131) After the mid-1990s due to extreme economic contractions, women could purchase their Joseon-ot in private markers and were allowed to choose their desired colours and designs. [128] (#cite_note-:242-128) In 2001, Lee Young-Hee (/wiki/Lee_Young-hee_(designer)) , a South Korean hanbok designer visited Pyeongyang (/wiki/Pyongyang) to hold a fashion show at the Pyeongyang Youth Center on 4 and 6 June; [130] (#cite_note-:27-130) : 262 and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) in Pyeongyang (/wiki/Pyongyang) every spring. [131] (#cite_note-:02-131) Since 2001, there have been an increase of shops specialized in the customization of Joseon-ot in Pyeongyang which was reported by the KBCS. [130] (#cite_note-:27-130) : 261 This increase was due to a project implemented by the public service bureau of the Pyeongyang People's Committee to increase Joseon-ot tailoring shops. [130] (#cite_note-:27-130) : 262 These shops are typically found in large cities, such as Pyeongyang and Gaesong but are rarely found in small cities and villages. [130] (#cite_note-:27-130) : 262 Modern usage by Korean diaspora [ edit ] China [ edit ] Illustration of vintage chaoxianfu on the Yanbian Literature & Art magazine cover, China, 1975~1983. In China (/wiki/China) , the hanbok is referred as chaoxianfu ( Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 朝鮮服 ; 조선옷 ; 朝鮮옷 ; Joseon-ot ) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of chaoxianzu (/wiki/Koreans_in_China) ( simplified Chinese (/wiki/Simplified_Chinese_characters) : 朝鲜族 ; traditional Chinese (/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_characters) : 朝鮮族 ; pinyin (/wiki/Pinyin) : cháoxiǎnzú ; lit. ' Joseon (/wiki/Joseon) (Korean) ethnic group') in China. The chaoxianzu is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 ethnic minority in China (/wiki/Ethnic_minorities_in_China) ; [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) people from chaoxianzu ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations. [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 240 They share the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the Constitution (/wiki/Constitution) of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities. [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) The term chaoxianzu literally correspond to Chosonjok ( 조선족 ; 朝鮮族 ; Chosŏnjok ), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to Hangukgye Junggugin ( lit. ' Korean-Chinese ' ), which is the actual legal term in South Korea. [132] (#cite_note-:26-132) In the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture (/wiki/Yanbian_Korean_Autonomous_Prefecture) , where most chaoxianzu reside, [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) the chaoxianfu was mostly worn on special occasions in the past; [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable. [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) Since the Chinese economic reform (/wiki/Chinese_economic_reform) of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in chaoxianzu-style Chosŏn-ot in China; [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) some of designs of the chaoxianzu-style Chosŏn-ot have been influenced and inspired by both South Korean and North Korean hanbok designs. [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 246 The chaoxianzu originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced. [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) The "reform and opening up" of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the chaoxianfu of China. [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) Following the chaoxianzu tradition, the chaoxianfu has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a mountain (/wiki/Mountain) as per the tradition, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the chaoxianfu also covers the entire body. [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) The chaoxianzu have developed their own style of hanbok [21] (#cite_note-:24-21) due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas. [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 240, 246 As a result, the styles of hanbok in South Korea, North Korea, and China, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other. For example, Yemi Hanbok by Songok Ryu, an ethnic chaoxianzu from the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture (/wiki/Yanbian_Korean_Autonomous_Prefecture) , is unique in both style and business model as it can operate in both South Korea and North Korea. [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 240, 246 In terms of chaoxianfu design, Yemi Hanbok designs are based on Chinese-style designs. [20] (#cite_note-:5-20) : 246 Over the years, the women's chaoxianfu also changed in length for the jeogori , git , and goreum and changed in width for the git , dong-jeong , sleeves, and goreum . The git and barae have evolved from straight to curve patterns. The wrinkle arrangement, length, and silhouette of the chima have also evolved; some of the skirts were sometimes decorated with gold embroidery (/wiki/Goldwork_(embroidery)) or gold leaf at the bottom hem. [21] (#cite_note-:24-21) The colours used were also very varied; for example, feminine colours such as pink, yellow, and deep red could be used. [21] (#cite_note-:24-21) The 1990s saw the use of gold leaf, floral prints, embroidery on the women's chaoxianfu ; the use of gradient colours also emerged. [21] (#cite_note-:24-21) For men, their jeogori , baji , and sleeves were made longer; their baji also became wider. The durumagi (/wiki/Durumagi) continues to be worn, and the baeja and magoja are worn frequently in present-days. [21] (#cite_note-:24-21) On 7 June 2008, the chaoxianfu were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage. [23] (#cite_note-:25-23) And, in 2011, the chaoxianfu was official designated as being part of the intangible cultural heritage (/wiki/Intangible_cultural_heritage) of China by the Chinese government; while the announcement was welcomed by the chaoxianzu ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distinctive national culture of Koreans". [133] (#cite_note-133) : 239 In 2022, a girl from the chaoxianzu (/wiki/Koreans_in_China) ethnic wore a chaoxianfu on the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics (/wiki/2022_Winter_Olympics) opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of cultural appropriation (/wiki/Cultural_appropriation) . [132] (#cite_note-:26-132) Social status [ edit ] Especially from the Goryeo (/wiki/Goryeo) dynasty, the hanbok started to determine differences in social status (from people with the highest social status (kings), to those of the lowest social status (slaves) [134] (#cite_note-Clothing,_Traditional_-_Korea-134) ) and gender through the many types, components, [134] (#cite_note-Clothing,_Traditional_-_Korea-134) colours, [135] (#cite_note-:2-135) : 132 and characteristics. [136] (#cite_note-Characteristics_of_the_Korean_Costume_and_Its_Development-136) Although the modern hanbok does not express a person's status or social position, hanbok was an important element of distinguishment especially in the Goryeo (/wiki/Goryeo) and Joseon (/wiki/Joseon) dynasties. [136] (#cite_note-Characteristics_of_the_Korean_Costume_and_Its_Development-136) For example, farmers and commoners were not allowed to wear colour garments in their daily lives, excluding some categories of people, such as the shamans, gisaeng (/wiki/Kisaeng) , and children, who were allowed to wear colourful clothing despite their social status. [135] (#cite_note-:2-135) : 132 Occasions when all people were allowed to wear colourful clothing were for special ceremonial occasions (e.g. wedding, birthday, holidays). [135] (#cite_note-:2-135) : 132 Clothes [ edit ] Hwarot [ edit ] Hwarot (/wiki/Hwarot) or hwal-ot was the full dress for a princess and the daughter of a king by a concubine (/wiki/Concubine) , formal dress for the upper class, and bridal wear for ordinary women during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) Popular embroidered patterns on hwarot were lotuses (/wiki/Lotus_(genus)) , phoenixes (/wiki/Phoenix_(mythology)) , butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white cranes (/wiki/Crane_(bird)) , and deer. [138] (#cite_note-Official/Court_Clothing-138) Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor while a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials. [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) All these patterns throughout Korean history had meanings of longevity, good luck, wealth and honor. [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) Hwarot also had blue, red, and yellow colored stripes in each sleeve (/wiki/Sleeve) ; a woman usually wore a scarlet-colored skirt and yellow or green-colored Jeogori (/wiki/Jeogori) , a traditional Korean jacket. [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) Hwarot was worn over the Jeogori (/wiki/Jeogori) and skirt. [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) A woman also wore her hair in a bun, with an ornamental hairpin and a ceremonial coronet (/wiki/Coronet) . [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) A long ribbon was attached to the ornamental hairpin, the hairpin is known as Yongjam ( 용잠 ). [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) In more recent times, people wear hwarot on their wedding day, and so the Korean tradition survives in the present day. [137] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(26)-137) Wonsam [ edit ] Wonsam (/wiki/Wonsam) was a ceremonial overcoat for a married woman in the Joseon dynasty. [139] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(25)-139) The Wonsam (/wiki/Wonsam) was also adopted from China (/wiki/China) and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the Tang dynasty (/wiki/Tang_dynasty) which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period. [83] (#cite_note-:1-83) It was mostly worn by royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noblewomen and the colors and patterns represented the various elements of the Korean class system. [139] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(25)-139) The empress wore yellow; the queen wore red; the crown princess wore a purple-red color; [135] (#cite_note-:2-135) : 132 meanwhile a princess, a king's daughter by a concubine (/wiki/Concubine) , and a woman of a noble family or lower wore green. [139] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(25)-139) All the upper social ranks usually had two colored stripes in each sleeve: yellow-colored Wonsam usually had red and blue colored stripes, red-colored Wonsam had blue and yellow stripes, and green-colored Wonsam had red and yellow stripes. [139] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(25)-139) Lower-class women wore many accompanying colored stripes and ribbons, but all women usually completed their outfit with onhye or danghye , traditional Korean shoes. [139] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(25)-139) Dangui [ edit ] Dangui (/wiki/Dangui) or tangwi were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the Joseon dynasty. [138] (#cite_note-Official/Court_Clothing-138) The materials used to make dangui varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick dangui in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer. [140] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(27)-140) The dangui came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple dangui , and the queen wore red. [140] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(27)-140) In the Joseon dynasty, ordinary women wore dangui as part of their wedding dress. [140] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(27)-140) Myeonbok and Jeokui [ edit ] Myeonbok [ edit ] Myeonbok (/wiki/Myeonbok) were the king's religious and formal ceremonial robes while jeokui (/wiki/Diyi) were the queen's equivalent during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Myeonbok was composed of Myeonryu-Gwan ( 면류관 ) and Gujang-bok ( 구장복 ). [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Myonryu-Gwan had beads, which hung loose; these would prevent the king from seeing wickedness. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) There were also wads of cotton in the left and right sides of Myeonryu-Gwan, and these were supposed to make the king oblivious to the influence of corrupt officials. Gujang-bok was black, and it bore nine symbols out of the Twelve ornaments (/wiki/Twelve_Ornaments) , which all represented the king: [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Dragon (/wiki/Dragon) : A dragon's appearance paralleled how the king governed and subsequently brought balance to the world. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Fire (/wiki/Fire) : The king was expected to be intelligent and wise to govern the people effectively, like a guiding light represented by the fire. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Pheasant (/wiki/Pheasant) : The image of a pheasant represented magnificence. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Mountain (/wiki/Mountain) : As a mountain is high, the king was on a par in terms of status and was deserving of respect and worship. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Tiger (/wiki/Tiger) : A tiger represented the king's courage. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Monkey (/wiki/Monkey) : A monkey symbolized wisdom. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Rice (/wiki/Rice) : As the people needed rice to live, the king was compared to this foodstuff as he had the responsibility of protecting their welfare. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Axe (/wiki/Axe) : This indicated that the king had the ability to save and take lives. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Water plant (/wiki/Aquatic_plant) : Another depiction of the king's magnificence. [141] (#cite_note-Myeonbok-141) Jeokui [ edit ] Jeokui (/wiki/Diyi) or tseogwi ( Korean (/wiki/Korean_language) : 적의 ) was arranged through the use of different colors as a status symbol within the royal family. [142] (#cite_note-Jeokui-142) The empress wore purple-red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue. [142] (#cite_note-Jeokui-142) "Jeok" means pheasant, and so Jeokui often had depictions of pheasants embroidered onto it. [142] (#cite_note-Jeokui-142) Cheolique [ edit ] Cheolique (/wiki/Terlig) (also Cheolick or Cheollik; 철릭 ) was a Korean adaptation of the Mongol tunic (/wiki/Terlig) , imported in the late 1200s during the Goryeo dynasty (/wiki/Goryeo_dynasty) . Cheolique, unlike other forms of Korean clothing, is an amalgamation of a blouse with a kilt into a single item of clothing. The flexibility of the clothing allowed easy horsemanship and archery. During the Joseon dynasty (/wiki/Joseon_dynasty) , they continued to be worn by the king, and military officials for such activities. [143] (#cite_note-Cheolique-143) It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations. [143] (#cite_note-Cheolique-143) A unique characteristic allowed the detachment of the Cheolique's sleeves which could be used as a bandage if the wearer was injured in combat. [143] (#cite_note-Cheolique-143) Ayngsam [ edit ] Ayngsam (/wiki/Panling_Lanshan) was the formal clothing for students during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies. [144] (#cite_note-Aengsam-144) It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam. [144] (#cite_note-Aengsam-144) If the highest-scoring student was young, the king awarded him with red-colored Aengsam. [144] (#cite_note-Aengsam-144) It was similar to the namsam but with a different colour. [145] (#cite_note-145) Accessories [ edit ] Hanbok accessories Binyeo [ edit ] Binyeo (/wiki/Binyeo) was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different-shaped tip again depending on social status. [146] (#cite_note-Binyeo-146) As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix-shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or Japanese apricot (/wiki/Japanese_apricot) flowers. [147] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(21)-147) And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency. [148] (#cite_note-148) Daenggi [ edit ] Daenggi (/wiki/Daenggi) is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair. Norigae [ edit ] Norigae (/wiki/Norigae) was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks. [149] (#cite_note-Norigae-149) [150] (#cite_note-:14-150) However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae. [150] (#cite_note-:14-150) Danghye [ edit ] Danghye or tanghye ( 당혜 ) were shoes for married women in the Joseon dynasty. [151] (#cite_note-Danghye-151) Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, pomegranates (/wiki/Pomegranates) , chrysanthemums (/wiki/Chrysanthemums) , or peonies (/wiki/Peonies) : these were symbols of longevity. [152] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(11)-152) Kunghye [ edit ] Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as kunghye ( 궁혜 ), and they were usually patterned with flowers. [152] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(11)-152) Onhye [ edit ] Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as onhye ( 온혜 ). [152] (#cite_note-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(11)-152) Characteristic [ edit ] Material [ edit ] In Hanbok, various cotton fabrics are used as materials, and with the entry of Western civilization, the range of fabrics such as mixed fabrics has expanded. The use of materials also varies slightly depending on the jeogori and pants, and there is a big difference in the season. [153] (#cite_note-153) In the case of jeogori, there are more than 10 types of general materials such as silk, jade, and general wool, and they use ramie or hemp in summer, and silk or Gapsa, Hangra, and Guksa cloth in spring and autumn. [154] (#cite_note-154) [155] (#cite_note-155) The material used evenly throughout the four seasons was sesame, and silk, both ends, and silk were often used in the durumagi for adult men. [156] (#cite_note-우리나라옷-156) In the case of silk, which is one of the most widely used materials due to differences in lining and outer material, most of the silk jeogori was lined with silk, and if it was not possible, only the inside of the collar, the tip, and the sap were lined with silk. If this situation did not work out like this, the fine-grained cotton was used. In fact, more than half of the materials identified in the jeogori study were silk, followed by cotton and hemp. [157] (#cite_note-장인우-157) In some cases, silk and cotton were lined with a mixture. When the jeogori was torn or broken, most of them were sewn with the same fabric, and a large piece was added to the elbow and sewn. [157] (#cite_note-장인우-157) Just as in the fact that silk was used a lot in jeogori, silk, cotton, and literary arts were evenly used in various clothes, ranging from red ginseng, skirt, beoseon, and pants. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of Korean clothing (/wiki/List_of_Korean_clothing) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) - a Chinese equivalent. Vietnamese clothing (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) - a Vietnamese equivalent. Wafuku (/wiki/Wafuku) - a Japanese equivalent. Notes [ edit ] Footnotes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Zang, Yingchun (2007). Zhongguo shao shu min zu fu shi . 臧迎春. (Di 1 ban ed.). Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-7-5085-0379-0 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 57675221 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/57675221) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Minority Ethnic Clothing : Korean (Chaoxianzu) Clothing" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221027151816/http://baoku.gmu.edu/exhibits/show/minority-ethnic-clothing/korean-clothing) . baoku.gmu.edu . Archived from the original (http://baoku.gmu.edu/exhibits/show/minority-ethnic-clothing/korean-clothing) on 27 October 2022 . Retrieved 23 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea ^ (#cite_ref-4) Ji-Yeon O. Jo (30 November 2017). "Koreans in the Commonwealth of Independent States". Homing: An Affective Topography of Ethnic Korean Return Migration . Nonolulu: University of Hawaii Press. p. 50. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780824872519 . Retrieved 22 July 2024 . [...] Koryǒ Saram [...] did their best to maintain Korean traditions - for example, observing major Korean holidays, wearing hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) on culturally important days, playing customary Korean games, and making traditional rice cakes with traditional Korean tools that they had crafted in diaspora. ^ (#cite_ref-Dead-Goguryeo_Tomb_Murals_2007_5-0) The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press ^ Jump up to: a b Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique . Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek. Cham, Switzerland: Springer. 2021. p. 125. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-030-32865-8 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1253353500 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500) . 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"A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & multimedia-Focused on rich women's costume of Goryeo-yang and Mongol-pung in Thirteenth to Fourteenth Century-" (https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART001040833) . 한국복식학회 . 57 (1): 176–186. ^ (#cite_ref-Life_in_Korea_47-0) "Men's Clothing" (http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=male) . Life in Korea . Retrieved 1 November 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b 까치두루마기 (in Korean). Nate (/wiki/Nate_(web_portal)) / EncyKorea (/wiki/EncyKorea) . Archived from the original (http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45) on 10 June 2011 . Retrieved 30 September 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-dol_49-0) "Geocities.com" (https://web.archive.org/web/20091027145013/http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm) . Julia's Cook Korean site. Archived from the original (http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm) on 27 October 2009 . 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"A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty" (https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page) . The Research Journal of the Costume Culture . 12 (6): 1060–1069. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1226-0401 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1226-0401) . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia . Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong. Cham, Switzerland. 2018. p. 116. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-319-97199-5 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1059514121 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-59) The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history . Jill Condra. Westport, Connecticut. 2008. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-33662-1 . 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The International Journal of Costume Culture . 3 (2): 100–123. ^ (#cite_ref-84) National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage (2013). Gat : traditional headgear in Korea . Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso. Daejeon, Korea: 길잡이미디어. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-89-6325-987-1 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 846696816 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816) . ^ Jump up to: a b Lee, Samuel Songhoon. (2013). Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition . Seoul Selection. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-89-97639-41-0 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 871061483 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/871061483) . ^ Jump up to: a b Pratt, Keith L. (1999). Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary . Richard Rutt, James Hoare. Richmond, Surrey: Curzon Press. p. 106. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7007-0464-4 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 42675362 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42675362) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f A new history of Parhae . John B. Duncan, Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan. Leiden: Global Oriental. 2012. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-90-04-24299-9 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 864678409 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/864678409) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-Koreana2_88-0) Cho, Woo-hyun. "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development" (http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html) . 9 (3). Koreana (/wiki/Koreana_(magazine)) . {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-Hanstyle2_89-0) 유행과 우리옷 [Fashion and Korean clothing] (in Korean). Korea the sense. Archived from the original (http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp) on 2 March 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-90) 김, 남정 (2000). "조선시대 치마에 관한 연구" (https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/184592) . {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) ^ Jump up to: a b A companion to Korean art . J. P. Park, Burglind Jungmann, Juhyung Rhi. Hoboken, NJ. 2020. p. 192. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-118-92702-1 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1154853080 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1154853080) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-92) Arts of Korea . Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1998. p. 436. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-87099-850-1 . 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"Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search" (http://english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do;jsessionid=zlMQLnmvrCZ3g9fsza7XSFD2VaW1HbZAfUE3Mxu7kkbLeRDLJK64zg5QpV9bYqor.cha-was01_servlet_engine4?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=04590000&sCcebCtcd=38&pageIndex=279®ion=&canAsset=&ccebPcd1=&searchWrd=&startNum=&endNum=&stCcebAsdt=&enCcebAsdt=&canceled=&ccebKdcd=&ccebCtcd=) . Cultural Heritage Administration (/wiki/Cultural_Heritage_Administration) . Retrieved 21 August 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Welters, Linda (2018). Fashion history : a global view . Abby Lillethun. London, UK. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4742-5363-5 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1004424828 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-108) The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history . Jill Condra. 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In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China. {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_multiple_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-110) Guide to Korean culture . Haeoe Hongbowŏn. Seoul, Republic of Korea. 2013. p. 93. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-89-7375-571-4 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 882879939 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) CS1 maint: others ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others) ) ^ (#cite_ref-111) Yang, Sunny (1997). Hanbok : the art of Korean clothing . Elizabeth, N.J.: Hollym. p. 61. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-56591-082-6 . 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Retrieved 9 May 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-Binyeo_146-0) "비녀" (https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1105813&categoryId=32094) . terms.naver.com (in Korean) . Retrieved 10 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Cho_Eun-ah's_Hanbok_Story(21)_147-0) "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (21)" (http://www.cnews041.com/36151) . C뉴스041 . Retrieved 10 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-148) "≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀" (http://www.mhj21.com/9863) . 문화저널21 . Retrieved 26 March 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Norigae_149-0) "노리개" (https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1076917&categoryId=32094) . terms.naver.com (in Korean) . Retrieved 10 April 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Yi, Kyŏng-ja (2005). Norigae : splendor of the Korean Costume . Lee Jean Young. Seoul, Korea: Ewha Womans University Press. pp. 12–13. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 89-7300-618-5 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 71358055 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/71358055) . ^ (#cite_ref-Danghye_151-0) "당혜" (https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=46671&docId=534624&categoryId=46671) . terms.naver.com (in Korean) . Retrieved 10 April 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (11)" (http://www.cnews041.com/29559) . C뉴스041 . Retrieved 10 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-153) 아름다운 한복도 예절에 맞게 입어야 (http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=106&oid=047&aid=0000012566) 오마이뉴스 2002-09-20 ^ (#cite_ref-154) (그여자네)한복, 강렬한 원색 곱구나 (http://news.khan.co.kr/kh_news/khan_art_view.html?artid=200702150930431&code=900305) 경향신문 2007-02-15 ^ (#cite_ref-155) 추석 한복 멋내기 (http://www.seoul.co.kr/news/newsView.php?id=20060928301001) 서울신문 2007-06-28 ^ (#cite_ref-우리나라옷_156-0) 석주선, 《우리나라옷》, 광문출판사, 1966년, 10쪽 ^ Jump up to: a b 조선초기 저고리의 복원적 고찰 (http://www.riss.kr/search/detail/DetailView.do?p_mat_type=be54d9b8bc7cdb09&control_no=2ff1eadcc94dd681#) 장인우, 숙명여자대학교 대학원 의류학과, 1985년, 72, 77, 78쪽 References [ edit ] An, Myung Sook (안명숙); Kim, Yong Ser (김용서) (in Korean) 1998. Hanʼguk poksiksa (한국복식사). Seoul. Yehaksa (예학사) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-89-89668-11-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-89-89668-11-4) Kim, Ki Sun (김기선). (in Korean) 2005. Information about Mongolian pigtail 몽골의 辮髮에 대하여 (http://www.dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?pid=734&isid=33818&arid=710104&topMenu=&topMenu1=) . The Institute of Asian Ethno-Forms and Culture. v. 5, 81-97 Kim, Moon Ja (in Korean) , 2004. A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the Globalism Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110102004542/http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713) 2 January 2011 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) (고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 7.1, 7-15 Lee, Kyung-Ja (이경자) (in Korean) , 2003, Uri ot ŭi chŏnt'ong yangsik (우리옷의 전통양식 The Traditional Style of Korean Clothes) (https://books.google.com/books?id=ZSjyNv61pT4C) Ewha Womans University (/wiki/Ewha_Womans_University) Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 89-7300-514-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/89-7300-514-6) Levinson, David (2002). Encyclopedia of modern Asia, Volume 2 . Charles Scribner's Sons. pp. 120–121. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-684-80617-4 . McCallion, Aleasha; Condra, Jill. 2008. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History (https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC) . Greenwood Publishing Group (/wiki/Greenwood_Publishing_Group) . p. 221 - 228, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-313-33664-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-313-33664-4) Nelson, Sarah. 1993. The archaeology of Korea . Cambridge University Press (/wiki/Cambridge_University_Press) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-521-40783-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-521-40783-4) You, Soon Lye (유순례) (in Korean) 2006, Comparative Research on the Costume Aesthetic Korean & Mongolia (몽골과 한국의 전통복식 미의식 비교에 대한 연구), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 6, 183-185 External links [ edit ] Media related to Hanbok (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hanbok) at Wikimedia Commons Hanbok History Evolution (https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-evolution) Hanbok History Infographic (https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-infographic) History of Hanbok (https://web.archive.org/web/20071113153646/http://myhome.naver.com/korean_dress/history1.htm) (in Korean) Information about Hanbok (https://web.archive.org/web/20071021095831/http://goldhanbok.com/data/data_kind.asp) (in Korean) Traditional Korean Clothing (http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm) - Life in Korea Official Korea Tourism Organization - Hanbok Clothing (http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161013070712/http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp) 13 October 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) v t e Folk costumes (/wiki/Folk_costume) Africa (/wiki/Clothing_in_Africa) Balgha (/wiki/Balgha) Boubou (/wiki/Agbada) Dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) Djellaba (/wiki/Djellaba) Head tie (/wiki/Head_tie) Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) Kanzu (/wiki/Kanzu) Kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) Kufi (/wiki/Kufi) Litham (/wiki/Litham) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Senegalese kaftan (/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan) Tagelmust (/wiki/Tagelmust) Wrapper (/wiki/Wrapper_(clothing)) Asia Central Afghanistan (/wiki/Pashtun_clothing) Pakol (/wiki/Pakol) Chapan (/wiki/Chapan) Deel (/wiki/Deel_(clothing)) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) East China (/wiki/Chinese_clothing) Cheongsam (/wiki/Cheongsam) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) Tangzhuang (/wiki/Tangzhuang) Japan (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) Hachimaki (/wiki/Hachimaki) Kimono (/wiki/Kimono) Obi (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) Korea (/wiki/List_of_Korean_clothing) Cheopji (/wiki/Cheopji) Daenggi (/wiki/Daenggi) Gache (/wiki/Gache) Hanbok Hwagwan (/wiki/Hwagwan) Jokduri (/wiki/Jokduri) Manggeon (/wiki/Wangjin) South Bhutan Gho (/wiki/Gho) Kira (/wiki/Kira_(Bhutan)) Dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) Dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) India (/wiki/Clothing_in_India) Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) Nepal (/wiki/Newar_traditional_clothing) Pakistan (/wiki/Pakistani_clothing) Pathin (/wiki/Pathin) Perak (/wiki/Perak_(headdress)) Peshawari pagri (/wiki/Peshawari_turban) Sari (/wiki/Sari) Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) Sherwani (/wiki/Sherwani) Southeast Burma (/wiki/Burmese_clothing) Longyi (/wiki/Longyi) Gaung baung (/wiki/Gaung_baung) Cambodia (/wiki/Khmer_clothing) Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Krama (/wiki/Krama) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Indonesia (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia) Baju bodo (/wiki/Bodo_blouse) Batik (/wiki/Batik) Blangkon (/wiki/Blangkon) Ikat (/wiki/Ikat) Kebaya (/wiki/Kebaya) Kemben (/wiki/Kemben) Kupiah (/wiki/Kupiah) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tanjak (/wiki/Tengkolok) Ulos (/wiki/Ulos) Laos (/wiki/Culture_of_Laos#Traditional_clothing) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits) Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) Baju Melayu (/wiki/Baju_Melayu) Songket (/wiki/Songket) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Tengkolok (/wiki/Tengkolok) Philippines (/wiki/Fashion_and_clothing_in_the_Philippines) Barong tagalog (/wiki/Barong_tagalog) Baro't saya (/wiki/Baro%27t_saya) Buntal hat (/wiki/Buntal_hat) Malong (/wiki/Malong) Maria Clara gown (/wiki/Maria_Clara_gown) Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Thailand (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Banong (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Banong) Chong kraben (/wiki/Chong_kraben) Chut Thai (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing) Formal Chut Thai (/wiki/Formal_Thai_national_costume) Pha khao ma (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Pha_khao_ma) Pha nung (/wiki/Pha_nung) Raj pattern (/wiki/Raj_pattern) Sabai (/wiki/Sabai) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Tabengman (/wiki/Traditional_Thai_clothing#Tabengman) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing) Áo bà ba (/wiki/%C3%81o_b%C3%A0_ba) Áo dài (/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i) Áo giao lĩnh (/wiki/%C3%81o_giao_l%C4%A9nh) Áo tứ thân (/wiki/%C3%81o_t%E1%BB%A9_th%C3%A2n) Middle East Abaya (/wiki/Abaya) Agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Assyria (/wiki/Assyrian_clothing) Bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Izaar (/wiki/Izaar) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_religious_clothing) Kippah (/wiki/Kippah) Sheitel (/wiki/Sheitel) Tallit (/wiki/Tallit) Tallit katan (/wiki/Tallit_katan) Tefillin (/wiki/Tefillin) Tzitzit (/wiki/Tzitzit) Jilbāb (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) Keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Kurdish (/wiki/Kurdish_clothing) Niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Palestine (/wiki/Palestinian_costumes) Pandama (/wiki/Pandama) Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Hejazi (/wiki/Hejazi_turban) Europe Balkan Traditional Albanian clothing (/wiki/Traditional_Albanian_clothing) Brez (/wiki/Brez_(clothing)) Çorape (/wiki/%C3%87orape) Opinga (/wiki/Opinga) Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) Xhamadan (/wiki/Xhamadan) Xhubleta (/wiki/Xhubleta) Aromanian (/w/index.php?title=Aromanian_traditional_clothing&action=edit&redlink=1) Croatia (/wiki/Croatian_national_costume) Fustanella (/wiki/Fustanella) Greek (/wiki/Greek_dress) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Macedonia (/wiki/Macedonian_national_costume) Romania (/wiki/Romanian_dress) Serbia (/wiki/Serbian_traditional_clothing) Kosovo (/wiki/Traditional_clothing_of_Kosovo) British Isles Britain Country (/wiki/British_country_clothing) Court (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) Windsor uniform (/wiki/Windsor_uniform) Ireland (/wiki/Irish_clothing) Scottish highlands (/wiki/Highland_dress) Aboyne (/wiki/Aboyne_dress) Feather bonnet (/wiki/Feather_bonnet) Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) Sporran (/wiki/Sporran) Wales (/wiki/Traditional_Welsh_costume) Central Dirndl (/wiki/Dirndl) Lederhosen (/wiki/Lederhosen) Poland (/wiki/National_costumes_of_Poland) Tracht (/wiki/Tracht) Eastern Armenia (/wiki/Armenian_dress) Azerbaijan (/wiki/Azerbaijani_traditional_clothing) Kelaghayi (/wiki/Kelaghayi) Ukraine (/wiki/Ukrainian_national_clothing) Kobeniak (/wiki/Kobeniak) Kozhukh (/wiki/Kozhukh) Kozhushanka (/wiki/Kozhushanka) Ochipok (/wiki/Ochipok) Sharovary (/wiki/Sharovary) Vyshyvanka (/wiki/Vyshyvanka) Ukrainian wreath (/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath) Russia Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) Kosovorotka (/wiki/Kosovorotka) Lapti (/wiki/Bast_shoe) Orenburg shawl (/wiki/Orenburg_shawl) Sarafan (/wiki/Sarafan) Western Netherlands Poffer (/wiki/Poffer) Kraplap (/wiki/Kraplap) Oorijzer (/wiki/Oorijzer) France Breton costume (/wiki/Breton_costume) Spain Traje de flamenca (/wiki/Traje_de_flamenca) Barretina (/wiki/Barretina) Cachirulo (/wiki/Cachirulo) Cordovan hat (/wiki/Cordovan_hat) Sombrero de catite (/wiki/Sombrero_de_catite) Mantilla (/wiki/Mantilla) Italy Ciocia (/wiki/Ciocia) Coppola cap (/wiki/Coppola_cap) Scandinavian Bunad (/wiki/Bunad) Gákti (/wiki/G%C3%A1kti) Iceland (/wiki/Icelandic_national_costume) Sweden (/wiki/Culture_of_Sweden#Folk_costuming) Nationella dräkten (/wiki/Nationella_dr%C3%A4kten) Bäckadräkten (/wiki/B%C3%A4ckadr%C3%A4kten) Sverigedräkten (/w/index.php?title=Sverigedr%C3%A4kten&action=edit&redlink=1) South America Aguayo (/wiki/Aguayo_(cloth)) Chile Chamanto (/wiki/Chamanto) Chilote cap (/wiki/Chilote_cap) Chilote poncho (/wiki/Chilote_poncho) Chupalla (/wiki/Chupalla) Chullo (/wiki/Chullo) Guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) Liqui liqui (/wiki/Liqui_liqui) Lliklla (/wiki/Lliklla) Panama hat (/wiki/Panama_hat) Pollera (/wiki/Pollera) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Ruana (/wiki/Ruana) North America Inuit skin clothing (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Tignon (/wiki/Tignon) Ceinture fléchée (/wiki/Ceinture_fl%C3%A9ch%C3%A9e) Western wear (/wiki/Western_wear) Bolo tie (/wiki/Bolo_tie) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Huipil (/wiki/Huipil) Mexico Huarache (/wiki/Huarache_(shoe)) Mexican pointy boots (/wiki/Mexican_pointy_boots) Rebozo (/wiki/Rebozo) Serape (/wiki/Serape) Sombrero (/wiki/Sombrero) Quechquemitl (/wiki/Quechquemitl) Oceania Grass skirt (/wiki/Grass_skirt) Feather cloak (/wiki/Feather_cloak) I-sala (/wiki/I-sala) Lap-lap (/wiki/Lap-lap) Lavalava (/wiki/Lavalava) Kiekie (/wiki/Kiekie_(clothing)) Pareo (/wiki/Pareo) Sulu (/wiki/Sulu_(skirt)) Taʻovala (/wiki/Ta%CA%BBovala) Tēfui (/wiki/T%C4%93fui) Tupenu (/wiki/Tupenu) v t e Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) of clothing and fashion History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Ancient (/wiki/Clothing_in_the_ancient_world) Prehistory of nakedness and clothing (/wiki/Prehistory_of_nakedness_and_clothing) China (/wiki/Popular_fashion_in_ancient_China) Han Chinese (/wiki/Hanfu) Shu (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Shu) Egyptian (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Egypt) Inuit (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Biblical (/wiki/Biblical_clothing) Greek (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Greece) Roman (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Rome) Thracian (/wiki/Thracian_clothing) Middle Ages Anglo-Saxon (/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_dress) Byzantine (/wiki/Byzantine_dress) Chinese Liao (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Liao_dynasty) Jurchen Jin (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Jurchen_Jin_dynasty) Yuan (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Yuan_dynasty) Western Xia (/wiki/Fashion_in_Western_Xia) English (/wiki/English_medieval_clothing) Europe 400s–1000s (/wiki/Early_medieval_European_dress) 1100s (/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_European_fashion) 1200s (/wiki/1200%E2%80%931300_in_European_fashion) 1300s (/wiki/1300%E2%80%931400_in_European_fashion) 1400s (/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion) Korean (#History) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_clothing) Tocharian (/wiki/Tocharian_clothing) Vietnamese (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing#Lý_dynasty_to_Trần_dynasty_(1009–1400)) 1500s–1820s Western fashion 1500–1550 (/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_European_fashion) 1550–1600 (/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_European_fashion) 1600–1650 (/wiki/1600%E2%80%931650_in_Western_fashion) 1650–1700 (/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_Western_fashion) 1700–1750 (/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_Western_fashion) 1750–1775 (/wiki/1750%E2%80%931775_in_Western_fashion) 1775–1795 (/wiki/1775%E2%80%931795_in_Western_fashion) 1795–1820 (/wiki/1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion) Directoire style (/wiki/Directoire_style) 1820s (/wiki/1820s_in_Western_fashion) 1830s–1910s Western fashion Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) 1830s (/wiki/1830s_in_Western_fashion) 1840s (/wiki/1840s_in_Western_fashion) 1850s (/wiki/1850s_in_Western_fashion) 1860s (/wiki/1860s_in_Western_fashion) 1870s (/wiki/1870s_in_Western_fashion) 1880s (/wiki/1880s_in_Western_fashion) 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Piece of cloth worn on one's head For other uses, see Headgear (/wiki/Headgear) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Headscarf) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Headscarf" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Headscarf%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Headscarf%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Headscarf%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Headscarf%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Headscarf%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Headscarf%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( November 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Women's headscarves for sale in Damascus. In Christian cultures, nuns (/wiki/Nun) cover their bodies and hair. Here is an example of a 16th-century wimple (/wiki/Wimple) , worn by a widowed Queen Anna of Poland (/wiki/Anna_of_Poland) , with a veil (/wiki/Veil) and a ruff (/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)) around the neck. A headscarf is a scarf covering most or all of the top of a person's, usually women's, hair and head, leaving the face uncovered. A headscarf is formed of a triangular cloth or a square cloth folded into a triangle, with which the head is covered. [1] (#cite_note-1) Purposes [ edit ] Elizabeth II (/wiki/Elizabeth_II) wearing a headscarf with Ronald Reagan (/wiki/Ronald_Reagan) , 1982. Headscarves may be worn for a variety of purposes, such as protection of the head or hair from rain, wind, dirt, cold, warmth, for sanitation, for fashion (/wiki/Fashion) , recognition or social (/wiki/Social) distinction; with religious (/wiki/Religious) significance, to hide baldness (/wiki/Baldness) , out of modesty, or other forms of social convention. [2] (#cite_note-2) Headscarves are now mainly worn for practical, cultural or religious reasons. Until the latter 20th century, [3] (#cite_note-Gordon2015-3) headscarves were commonly worn by women in many parts of Europe (/wiki/Europe) , Southwestern Asia (/wiki/Southwestern_Asia) , North Africa (/wiki/North_Africa) , and the Americas (/wiki/Americas) , as well as some other parts of the world. In recent decades, headscarves, like hats, have fallen out of favor in Western culture. They are still, though, common in many rural areas of Eastern Europe as well as many areas of the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) . [4] (#cite_note-Flinn2014-4) The Christian Bible (/wiki/Christian_Bible) , in 1 Corinthians 11:4–13 (https://bible.oremus.org/?passage=1%20Corinthians%2011:4–13&version=nrsv) , enjoins women to wear a head covering (/wiki/Christian_head_covering) . [5] (#cite_note-2014Hunt-5) Among Anabaptist Christians (/wiki/Anabaptist_Christian) , this often takes the form of a Kapp (/wiki/Kapp_(headcovering)) or hanging veil (/wiki/Hanging_veil) —being worn throughout the day. [6] (#cite_note-Scott1996-6) For Eastern Orthodox Christians (/wiki/Eastern_Orthodox_Church) , headscarves are traditionally worn by women while attending the church, and historically, in the public as well. However, in certain localities, this has waned. [7] (#cite_note-OCIC-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) A form of headscarf, known as the hijab (/wiki/Hijab) , is often seen in Muslim countries and is born out of tradition (/wiki/Tradition) . It is worn by some Muslim women who consider it to be a religious ordainment, and its style varies by culture. [10] (#cite_note-10) Not all Muslims believe that the hijab in the context of head covering is a religious ordainment in the Quran (/wiki/Quran) . [11] (#cite_note-auto1-11) [12] (#cite_note-auto-12) For fashion and ceremonial usage, the gele (/wiki/Gele_(head_tie)) is a traditional headscarf of Yoruba women for fashionable purposes. Religious use [ edit ] Headscarves may specifically have a religious (/wiki/Religion) significance or function, or be expected as a matter of social custom (/wiki/Social_custom) , the two very often being confused. [ citation needed ] Judaism [ edit ] Judaism (/wiki/Judaism) , under Halakhah (/wiki/Halakhah) (Jewish Law), promotes modest dress among women and men. Many married Orthodox Jewish (/wiki/Orthodox_Judaism) women wear a headscarf ( mitpahat (/wiki/Tichel) or tichel) , snood, turban, or shpitzel (/wiki/Shpitzel) to cover their hair. The Tallit (/wiki/Tallit) is commonly worn by Jewish men, especially for prayers, which they use to cover their heads in order to recite the blessings, although not all men do this. It also may not apply to the entire prayer service, sometimes only specific sections such as the Amidah. The Kohanim (/wiki/Kohanim) (priests) also cover their heads and shoulders with the tallit during the priestly blessing, so as to conform to Halakah (/wiki/Halakah) which states that the hands of the priests should not be seen during this time as their mystical significance to the hand position. Christianity [ edit ] Main article: Christian head covering (/wiki/Christian_head_covering) Hutterite (/wiki/Hutterite) Anabaptist Christian (/wiki/Anabaptist_Christian) women wearing headscarves A Christian woman in Russia wearing a shawl while reading the Bible (/wiki/Bible) The Bible (/wiki/Bible) , in 1 Corinthians 11:4–13 (https://bible.oremus.org/?passage=1%20Corinthians%2011:4–13&version=nrsv) , instructs women to wear a head covering (/wiki/Christian_headcovering) , while men are to pray and worship with their heads uncovered. [13] (#cite_note-Hunt2014-13) [14] (#cite_note-Safran2014-14) In the early Church, Christian head-covering with an opaque cloth veil was universally taught by the Church Fathers (/wiki/Church_Fathers) and practiced by Christian women. [15] (#cite_note-Bercot1992-15) [3] (#cite_note-Gordon2015-3) [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-SJEOC2021-18) The practice continues in many parts of the world, such as Romania, Russia, Ukraine, Ethiopia, India, Pakistan, and South Korea. [19] (#cite_note-Mingus2015-19) The Early Church Father John Chrysostom (/wiki/John_Chrysostom) ( c. 347 – 407) delineated Saint Paul's (/wiki/Saint_Paul) teaching, explaining that Paul said a man praying with a head covering "dishonoureth his head", while Christian women should always wear a cloth head covering. Paul compared a woman not wearing a veil to her being shaven, which Chrysostom stated is "always dishonourable". [7] (#cite_note-OCIC-7) [20] (#cite_note-Schaff1889-20) The Church Fathers taught that because the hair of a woman has sexual potency, it should only be for her husband to see and covered the rest of the time. [21] (#cite_note-Milliken2020-21) To some extent, the covering of the head depended on where the woman was, but it was usual outside and on formal occasions, especially when praying at home and worshipping in church. [19] (#cite_note-Mingus2015-19) [22] (#cite_note-22) Certain styles of Christian head coverings were an indication of married status; the "matron's cap" is a general term for these. [13] (#cite_note-Hunt2014-13) Many Anabaptist Christian (/wiki/Anabaptist_Christian) women ( Amish (/wiki/Amish) / Para-Amish (/wiki/Para-Amish) , Schwarzenau Brethren (/wiki/Schwarzenau_Brethren) , Bruderhof (/wiki/Bruderhof) , Hutterites (/wiki/Hutterites) , River Brethren (/wiki/River_Brethren) , Apostolic Christians (/wiki/Apostolic_Christian_Church) , Charity Christians (/wiki/Charity_Christian_Fellowship) and Mennonites (/wiki/Mennonites) ) wear their headscarf at all times, except when sleeping; these head coverings are usually in the form of a hanging veil (/wiki/Hanging_veil) or kapp (/wiki/Kapp_(headcovering)) . [23] (#cite_note-AlmilaInglis2017-23) [6] (#cite_note-Scott1996-6) In countries with large Eastern Orthodox Christian (/wiki/Eastern_Orthodox_Christian) population such as Romania (/wiki/Romania) [24] (#cite_note-24) or Russia [25] (#cite_note-25) headscarves and veils are used by Christian women in the Eastern Orthodox Church, Oriental Orthodox Church, Assyrian Church of the East, and Roman Catholic Church. [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) A few years back, all women in Russia who attended Divine Liturgy wore head-coverings. A woman having her head covered means that she honors the Lord. Head-coverings also symbolizes that a woman is married and that her husband is the head of the family. Little girls also have their heads covered when they go to Mass at church, not because they are married, but in order to honor the Lord. Today, young Russian Orthodox women and little girls still cover their heads when going to church, although it differs in style from those worn by women of older age (grandmothers). [ citation needed ] The Roman Catholic Church (/wiki/Roman_Catholic_Church) required all women to wear a head covering over their hair in church until the 1980s; in Spain (/wiki/Spain) , these take the form of the mantilla (/wiki/Mantilla) . Women meeting the Pope in formal audiences are still expected to wear them. Martin Luther (/wiki/Martin_Luther) , the German Reformer (/wiki/Reformation) , as well as John Calvin (/wiki/John_Calvin) , a major figure in the Reformed Churches, also expected women to cover their heads in church, as did John Wesley (/wiki/John_Wesley) , the founder of the Methodist Churches (/wiki/Methodist_Church) . [28] (#cite_note-28) In many rural areas, women, especially widows, continue to observe the traditional Christian custom of head-covering, especially in the Mediterranean, as well as in eastern (/wiki/Eastern_Europe) and southern Europe (/wiki/Southern_Europe) ; in South Asia (/wiki/South_Asia) , it is common for Christian women to wear a head covering called a dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) . [29] (#cite_note-BoultwoodHindle2018-29) [19] (#cite_note-Mingus2015-19) At times the styles of covering using simple cloth became very elaborate, with complicated layers and folding, held in place with hair pins (/wiki/Hair_pins) . Among the many terms for head-coverings made of flexible cloth are wimple (/wiki/Wimple) , hennin (/wiki/Hennin) , kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) , gable hood (/wiki/Gable_hood) , as well as light hats, mob caps (/wiki/Mob_cap) and bonnets (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)) . [ citation needed ] Some English speakers use the word " babushka (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/babushka#English) " (the word for "grandma" in Russian (/wiki/Russian_language) : бaбушка ⓘ (/wiki/File:Ru-babushka.ogg) ) to indicate a headscarf tied below the chin, as still commonly worn in rural parts of Europe (/wiki/Europe) . In many parts of Europe, headscarves are used mainly [ citation needed ] by elderly women, and this led to the use of the term "babushka", an East Slavic (/wiki/East_Slavic_languages) word meaning "grandmother". Some types of head coverings that Russian women wear are: circlet (/wiki/Circlet) , veil (/wiki/Veil) , and wimple (/wiki/Wimple) . Islam [ edit ] See also: Hijab by country (/wiki/Hijab_by_country) Islam (/wiki/Islam) promotes modest dress among men and women. According to some, it is the "khimar" [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) mentioned in the Quran (/wiki/Quran) . Many of these garments cover the hair, ears and throat, but do not cover the face. Not all Muslims believe that the hijab in the context of head-covering is a religious ordainment in the Quran. [11] (#cite_note-auto1-11) [12] (#cite_note-auto-12) The keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) is commonly used by Muslims in Middle Eastern (/wiki/Middle_East) countries. [32] (#cite_note-32) Headscarves and veils are used by some Muslim women and girls, so that no one has the right to expose her beauty but except her Mahrams (/wiki/Mahram) . [33] (#cite_note-33) For women, the Muslim religious dress (/wiki/Islam_and_clothing) varies, and various cultures include hijab (/wiki/Hijab) , burqa (/wiki/Burqa) , chador (/wiki/Chador) , niqab (/wiki/Niqab) , dupatta (/wiki/Dupatta) , or other types of hijab (/wiki/Types_of_hijab) , while others reject all of these dress codes. The religion prescribes modest behaviour or dress in general. [34] (#cite_note-34) Sikhism [ edit ] Young Sikhs (/wiki/Sikhs) often wear a cloth wrapping to cover their hair, before moving on to the dastar (/wiki/Dastar) . Older Sikhs may wear them as an under-turban. [ citation needed ] Use while working [ edit ] Brookside Mill workers in Knoxville, Tennessee, USA; photographed by Lewis Wickes Hine in 1910. Armenians picking cotton in the 1930s A clerk working for Alitalia (/wiki/Alitalia) wears a headscarf in 1970. This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Headscarf) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( July 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Practical reasons for headscarf use at work include protection from bad weather and protection against industrial contamination, for example in dusty and oily environments. A headscarf can ensure that the hair does not interfere with the work and get caught-up in machinery since long hair can get into rotating parts of machines, so this is avoided either by means of a suitable head covering like a cap, hairnet or kerchief; cutting the hair short; or by putting on a headscarf. Hygiene (/wiki/Hygiene) also requires wearing a head cover at some workplaces, for example in kitchens and hospitals. Such usage has gone on since about 1900, when women's use of mob caps (/wiki/Mob_cap) and Dutch bonnets (/wiki/Dutch_bonnet) declined. Workers wore them at work to protect their hair from dirt. Farmers used them to see off the weather and dirt. Soviet labour units of the 1930s and 1940s wore them as part of their uniform (where uniforms were available). This habit was common until about the 1950s in the West for farmers and 1960s factory workers, and 1970s in the former USSR for farmers and factory workers. In popular culture [ edit ] In the modern era, persons may choose to wear a headscarf for religious, moral, or practical reasons. Hilda Ogden (/wiki/Hilda_Ogden) , popular character from the UK soap opera Coronation Street (/wiki/Coronation_Street) portrayed by Jean Alexander (/wiki/Jean_Alexander) , became famous throughout the nation for combining a headscarf with hair curlers (/wiki/Hair_curlers) . So famous was she that, in 1982, she came fourth behind the Queen Mother (/wiki/Elizabeth_Bowes-Lyon) , Queen Elizabeth II (/wiki/Elizabeth_II_of_the_United_Kingdom) , and Diana, Princess of Wales (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) in a poll of the most recognisable women in Britain. [35] (#cite_note-35) Image gallery [ edit ] School girls in Herat, Afghanistan Oil on canvas painting by Vittore Ghislandi, called Fra Galgario (/wiki/Fra_Galgario) Women with headscarves in Alanya (/wiki/Alanya) , Turkey (/wiki/Turkey) Distribution of Communion at a Tridentine Mass (/wiki/Tridentine_Mass) , women typically wear a headcovering (/wiki/Christian_headcovering) . A woman selling flowers. Egypt, 1906 Assyrian (/wiki/Assyrian_people) Christian (/wiki/Christians) women wearing headcoverings and modest clothing praying in Mart Maryam Church (/wiki/St._Mary_Church,_Urmia) in Urmia (/wiki/Urmia) , Iran (/wiki/Iran) Girls dressed up for a parade wear matching yellow headscarves. 2009, New Orleans, Louisiana. A Jewish woman wearing a headwrap Woman with a headscarf in Gambia Egypt, 1935 A headscarf for chefs (/wiki/Chef) ; Los Angeles, 2007 Three Turkish women wearing headscarves, 2003 Laughing woman in Kuala Lumpur wearing a blue headscarf, 2008. A Malaysian girl wearing a headscarf, 2010. Women typical dress and headscarf; Nazaré, Portugal, 2006. Yoruba Women in Gele, a traditional headscarf (Iborun) of Yoruba ladies Salvadoran women wear distinctive regional veils for national celebrations. A young Somali (/wiki/Somali_people) woman in a traditional headscarf. A cancer (/wiki/Cancer) patient in a head scarf after losing her hair due to Chemotherapy (/wiki/Chemotherapy) . An Afghan girl wears an Islamic (/wiki/Islam) style scarf at the International Women's Day celebration in Pajshir in 2008. A Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_people) man with headscarf in his fashion costume. Scarved Moksha (/wiki/Mokshas) girls in traditional costumes. Amenhotep II in a Nemes headcloth. The Molokans (Russian: Молока́не) are a religious sect, among Russian peasants (serfs), who broke away from the Russian Orthodox Church in the 1550s. Molokans denied the Czar's divine right to rule and rejected icons. An early 19th-century Russian silk embroidered headscarf. [36] (#cite_note-36) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Christian headcovering (/wiki/Christian_headcovering) Head tie (/wiki/Head_tie) Headscarf controversy in Turkey (/wiki/Headscarf_controversy_in_Turkey) Islamic dress in Europe (/wiki/Islamic_dress_in_Europe) Mathabana (/wiki/Mathabana) Shalwar Kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_Kameez) Tichel (/wiki/Tichel) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Amber Nicole Alston (8 January 2021). "Conservative, rebellious, culture-defining: A brief history of the headscarf" (https://www.cnn.com/style/article/headscarf-brief-history/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved 3 March 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Rosalie Gilbert. "Veils and Wimples" (http://rosaliegilbert.com/veilsandwimples.html) . Rosalie's Medieval Woman . Retrieved 2 January 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Gordon, Greg (31 August 2015). "Are Head Coverings Really for Today?" (https://evangelicalfocus.com/yourblog/929/Are-Head-Coverings-Really-for-Today-) . Evangelical Focus . Retrieved 2 May 2022 . One of the most questioned practices in the New Testament in the modern day Western Church is the practice of Head Coverings for women. Yet to get perspective we need to look over the panoply of God's Church for 2000 years and see that this is not something new but old—and has been practiced diligently over the ages. It is hard to imagine but since the 1960s the Church almost entirely practiced this tradition. The influence of secular reasoning, feminism and liberal theology have led to the questioning and, ultimately, the casting aside of this practice in the Church at large in the evangelical world. ^ (#cite_ref-Flinn2014_4-0) Flinn, Isabella (1 May 2014). Pinpricks in the Curtain: India Through the Eyes of an Unlikely Missionary . WestBow Press. p. 234. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781490834313 . ^ (#cite_ref-2014Hunt_5-0) Hunt, Margaret (11 June 2014). Women in Eighteenth Century Europe . Taylor & Francis. p. 58. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781317883876 . Today many people associate rules about veiling and headscarves with the Muslim world, but in the eighteenth century they were common among Christians as well, in line with 1 Corinthians 11:4-13 which appears not only to prescribe headcoverings for any women who prays or goes to church, but explicitly to associate it with female subordination, which Islamic veiling traditions do not typically do. Many Christian women wore a head-covering all the time, and certainly when they went outside; those who did not would have been barred from church and likely harassed on the street. … Veils were, of course, required for Catholic nuns, and a veil that actually obscured the face was also a mark of elite status throughout most of Europe. Spanish noblewomen wore them well into the eighteenth century, and so did Venetian women, both elites and non-elites. Across Europe almost any woman who could afford them also wore them to travel. ^ Jump up to: a b Scott, Stephen (1 January 1996). Introduction to Old Order and Conservative Mennonite Groups: People's Place Book No. 12 . Simon and Schuster. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-68099-243-4 . ^ Jump up to: a b "On Account of the Angels: Why I Cover My Head" (http://orthodoxinfo.com/praxis/headcoverings.aspx) . Orthodox Christian Information Center . Retrieved 8 April 2022 . St. John Chrysostom thought that Paul, in admonishing women to wear a covering "because of the angels," meant it "not at the time of prayer only, but also continually, she ought to be covered." Fr. Rhodes agrees: "The veil can be the constant symbol of the true woman of God … a way of life … a testimony of faith and of the salvation of God, not only before men, but angels as well." ^ (#cite_ref-8) Yegorov, Oleg (11 December 2019). "Why do women cover their heads in Orthodox churches?" (https://www.rbth.com/lifestyle/331402-women-russican-church-head-cover) . www.rbth.com . Retrieved 6 December 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Barbara Weiß (12 July 2016). "Religion und Glaube in Bayern: Orthodoxe Kirche" (https://web.archive.org/web/20181117143636/https://www.br.de/themen/religion/religion-glaube-bayern-orthodoxe-kirche-104.html) . Bayerischer Rundfunk (in German). Archived from the original (https://www.br.de/themen/religion/religion-glaube-bayern-orthodoxe-kirche-104.html) on 17 November 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Sparrow, Mary (9 July 2018). "Understanding the Veil: A Primer in Muslim Women's Head Coverings [Photo Gallery]" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180709061227/https://www.imb.org/2018/07/09/muslim-womens-head-coverings/) . International Mission Board . Archived from the original (https://www.imb.org/2018/07/09/muslim-womens-head-coverings/) on 9 July 2018. ^ Jump up to: a b Ibrahim B. Syed. "The Qur'an Does Not Mandate Hijab" (http://www.irfi.org/articles/articles_351_400/quran_does_not_mandate_hijab.htm) . Islamic Research Foundation International . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151221175749/http://www.irfi.org/articles/articles_351_400/quran_does_not_mandate_hijab.htm) from the original on 21 December 2015 . Retrieved 26 December 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Jamal Saidi. " (https://web.archive.org/web/20151227054847/http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2012/06/45564/hijab-is-not-an-islamic-duty-scholar/) "Hijab is not an Islamic Duty" – Scholar" (https://web.archive.org/web/20151227054847/http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2012/06/45564/hijab-is-not-an-islamic-duty-scholar/) . Moroccoworldnews.com . Archived from the original (http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2012/06/45564/hijab-is-not-an-islamic-duty-scholar/) on 27 December 2015. ^ Jump up to: a b Hunt, Margaret (2014). Women in Eighteenth Century Europe . Taylor & Francis. p. 58. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781317883876 . ^ (#cite_ref-Safran2014_14-0) Safran, Linda (2014). The Medieval Salento: Art and Identity in Southern Italy . University of Pennsylvania Press. p. 112. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780812245547 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bercot1992_15-0) Bercot, David W. (1992). Common Sense: A New Approach to Understanding Scripture . Scroll Publishing Co. p. 68. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-924722-06-6 . Hippolytus, a leader in the church in Rome around the year 200, compiled a record of the various customs and practices in that church from the generations that preceded him. His Apostolic Tradition contains this statement: "And let all the women have their heads covered with an opaque cloth, not with a veil of thin linen, for this is not a true covering." This written evidence of the course of performance of the early Christians is corroborated by the archaeological record. The pictures we have from the second and third centuries from the catacombs and other places depict Christian women praying with a cloth veil on their heads. So the historical record is crystal clear. It reveals that the early generation of believers understood the head covering to be a cloth veil—not long hair. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Veil" (http://www.earlychristiandictionary.com/Veil.html) . Early Christian Dictionary . Retrieved 7 September 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Earle, Alice Morse (1903). Two Centuries of Costume in America, Vol. 2 (1620–1820) . The Macmillan Company. p. 582. One singular thing may be noted in this history, – that with all the vagaries of fashion, woman has never violated the Biblical law that bade her cover her head. She has never gone to church services bareheaded. ^ (#cite_ref-SJEOC2021_18-0) "The Ultimate Guide to Christian Head Coverings" (https://www.saintjohnchurch.org/head-coverings-ultimate-guide/) . Saint John the Evangelist Orthodox Church. 26 October 2021 . Retrieved 25 January 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Mingus, Elaine (19 May 2015). "Christian Headcovering in India" (https://www.headcoveringmovement.com/articles/christian-headcovering-in-india) . The Head Covering Movement. There were many times that a woman would be called into prayer while preparing a meal. Instead of running to get a head scarf, she would grab a readily available dish towel to cover her head instead. ^ (#cite_ref-Schaff1889_20-0) Schaff, Philip (1889). A Select Library of the Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers of the Christian Church: St. Chrysostom: Homilies on the Epistles of Paul to the Corinthians . The Christian Literature Company. p. 152. Well then: the man he compelleth not to be always uncovered, but only when he prays. "For every man," saith he, "praying or prophesying, having his head covered, dishonoureth his head." But the woman he commands to be at all times covered. Wherefore also having said, "Every woman that prayeth or prophesieth with her head unveiled, dishonoureth her head," he stayed not at this point only, but also proceeded to say, "for it is one and the same thing as if she were shaven." But if to be shaven is always dishonourable, it is plain too that being uncovered is always a reproach. And not even with this only was he content, but he added again, saying, "The woman ought to have a sign of authority on her head, because of the angels." He signifies that not only at the time of prayer, but also continually, she ought to be covered. But with regard to the man, it is no longer about covering but about wearing long hair, that he so forms his discourse. To be covered he then only forbids, when a man is praying; but the wearing of long hair he discourages at all times. ^ (#cite_ref-Milliken2020_21-0) Milliken, Roberta (2020). A Cultural History of Hair in the Middle Ages . Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 54. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-350-10303-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Françoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane; Dress in the Middle Ages ; pp. 40, 78-81, 95, 121, Yale UP, 1997; ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0300069065 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0300069065) ^ (#cite_ref-AlmilaInglis2017_23-0) Almila, Anna-Mari; Inglis, David (2017). The Routledge International Handbook to Veils and Veiling . Taylor & Francis. p. 296. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781317041146 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Women's Headcoverings" (https://theorthodoxlife.wordpress.com/2014/02/04/womens-headcoverings/) (blog). The Orthodox Life. 4 February 2014 . Retrieved 14 April 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Bercot, David. "Head Covering Through the Centuries" (https://www.scrollpublishing.com/store/head-covering-history.html) . Scroll Publishing Co . Retrieved 2 January 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Elisabet (Spring 1997). "On Account of the Angels: Why I Cover My Head" (http://orthodoxinfo.com/praxis/headcoverings.aspx) . The Handmaiden . Conciliar Press . Retrieved 2 January 2023 – via orthodoxinfo.com. ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Veiling in Church: Mantilla Manifesto" (http://www.altcatholicah.com/altcatol/a/b/mca/4356/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140407081248/http://www.altcatholicah.com/altcatol/a/b/mca/4356/) 7 April 2014 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . altcatholicah.com ^ (#cite_ref-28) Wesley, John (1987). Wesley's Notes on the Bible . Christian Classics Ethereal Library. p. 570. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781610252577 . ^ (#cite_ref-BoultwoodHindle2018_29-0) Boultwood, Anne; Hindle, Sian (8 February 2018). Culture, Costume and Dress . Gold Word Publishing. p. 80. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781909379268 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Veiling in Qur'anic Verses | Muslim Sexual Ethics | The Feminist Sexual Ethics Project | Brandeis University" (https://www.brandeis.edu/projects/fse/muslim/verses.html#:~:text=NOTE:%20The%20word%20translated%20as,the%20time%20of%20the%20Prophet.) . www.brandeis.edu . Retrieved 27 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "What is the evidence in the Quran about covering women's heads?" (https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-evidence-in-the-Quran-about-covering-women%E2%80%99s-heads) . Quora . Retrieved 27 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Sottile, Zoe; CNN (28 November 2023). "The Palestinian keffiyeh explained: How this scarf became a national symbol" (https://www.cnn.com/2023/11/28/style/style-palestinian-keffiyeh-explained/index.html) . CNN . Retrieved 27 April 2024 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : |last2= has generic name ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_name) ) ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Veiling in Qur'anic Verses | Muslim Sexual Ethics | The Feminist Sexual Ethics Project | Brandeis University" (https://www.brandeis.edu/projects/fse/muslim/verses.html) . www.brandeis.edu . Retrieved 27 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Sayyid Muhammad Rizvi (18 November 2021). "Why Hijab?" (https://www.al-islam.org/hijab-muslim-womens-dress-islamic-or-cultural-sayyid-muhammad-rizvi/why-hijab) . www.al-islam.org . Retrieved 2 January 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Little, Daran (1995). The Coronation Street Story, p.188. London: Boxtree. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-85283-464-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-85283-464-1) ^ (#cite_ref-36) "Headscarf | Russian | The Met" (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157570?&searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&ft=headscarf&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=12) . The Metropolitan Museum of Art . Further reading [ edit ] Anderson, Cory A. (2013). The Ornament of a Spirit: Exploring the Reasons Covering Styles Change . Stoneboro (/wiki/Stoneboro,_Pennsylvania) : Ridgeway Publishing. Anderson, Cory; Anderson, Jennifer (2019). Fitted to Holiness: How Modesty is Achieved and Compromised among the Plain People . Millersburg (/wiki/Millersburg,_Ohio) : Acorn Publishing. Bercot, David (2012). What the Early Christians Believed About the Head Covering . Amberson (/wiki/Amberson,_Pennsylvania) : Scroll Publishing Co. Bercot, David (1992). Common Sense: A New Approach to Understanding Scripture . Amberson (/wiki/Amberson,_Pennsylvania) : Scroll Publishing Co. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780924722066 . Ruth, Merle (2022). The Significance of the Christian Woman's Veiling . Harrisonburg (/wiki/Harrisonburg,_Virginia) : Christian Light Publications. Shank, Tom (1992). "…Let Her Be Veiled.": An in-depth study of 1 Corinthians 11:1-16 . Eureka (/wiki/Eureka,_Montana) : Torch Publications. Williams, Paul K. (2005). The Head Coverings of I Corinthians 11 (PDF) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181228175803/https://storage.googleapis.com/biblemirror.appspot.com/downloads/headcoverings/head-coverings-book.pdf) (PDF) from the original on 28 December 2018. 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Cylindrical hip-wrap worn in Myanmar For a similar garment worn in India and elsewhere, see Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) . Longyi Burmese man in a longyi Type Skirt Material Silk, cotton Place of origin Burma (Myanmar) A longyi ( Burmese (/wiki/Burmese_language) : လုံချည် ; MLCTS (/wiki/MLC_Transcription_System) : lum hkyany ; pronounced [lòʊɰ̃dʑì] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Burmese) ) is a sheet of cloth (/wiki/Cloth) widely worn in Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar) (Burma). It is approximately 2 metres (6.6 ft) long and 80 centimetres (2.6 ft) wide. The cloth is often sewn into a cylindrical shape. It is worn around the waist, running to the feet, and held in place by folding fabric over without a knot. In ancient times, Lethwei (/wiki/Lethwei) fighters would hitch it up (paso hkadaung kyaik) to compete. [1] (#cite_note-Longyi_LW-1) This folding technique is still being used in modern days when people play chinlone (/wiki/Chinlone) . History [ edit ] A man wearing taungshay paso in the late 1800s The modern longyi , a single piece of cylindrical cloth, is a relatively recent introduction to Burma. It gained popularity during British colonial rule (/wiki/Colonial_rule) , effectively replacing the paso and htamein of precolonial times. [2] (#cite_note-2) The word longyi formerly referred to the sarong (/wiki/Sarong) worn by Malay (/wiki/Ethnic_Malays) men. [3] (#cite_note-judson-3) In the precolonial era, men's pasos used to be a long piece of 30 feet (9.1 m) called taungshay paso ( တောင်ရှည်ပုဆိုး ) and unsewn. Alternately the htamein was a 4.5 feet (1.4 m) long piece of cloth open at the front to reveal the calves, with a dark strip of cotton or velvet sewn on the upper edge, a patterned sheet of cloth in the middle and a strip of red or white cloth sewn below, trailing on the bottom like shorts train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) . [4] (#cite_note-ferrars-4) [5] (#cite_note-ind-5) Paso was commonly worn by men in 19th century Burma and Thailand. [6] (#cite_note-Yule1858-6) [7] (#cite_note-bowie-7) The amount of cloth in the paso was a sign of social status. [7] (#cite_note-bowie-7) In an October 2010 state visit, Burmese State Peace and Development Council (/wiki/State_Peace_and_Development_Council) members greeted Thai Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva in acheik patterned longyi typically worn by women. Various sources attributed this to yadaya (/wiki/Yadaya) practices. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) A woman dressed in the old htamein style prevalent until the 1900s A western visitor to Rangoon (/wiki/Rangoon) in the 19th century wrote: Nearly all the men are naked to the waist, or wear a small white open linen jacket, with a voluminous putso [paso] wound tightly round their loins and gathered into a great bundle or knot in front. [10] (#cite_note-BrasseyBroome2010-10) A 19th-century watercolor depicting longyi merchants Visiting Amarapura (/wiki/Amarapura) , Henry Yule (/wiki/Henry_Yule) described the pasos and their equivalent for women, the htameins, as "the most important article of local production", employing a large proportion of the local population. The silk was imported from China. [6] (#cite_note-Yule1858-6) He wrote: The putso piece is usually from nine to ten yards long. When made up for use the length of web is cut in halves, which are stitched together so as to give double width. It is girt round the waist without any fastening. [6] (#cite_note-Yule1858-6) However, with the onset of colonial rule, Lower Burma (/wiki/Lower_Burma) and urban areas more readily adopted the longyi worn in the Malay and Indian style, which was considered more convenient to wear. [4] (#cite_note-ferrars-4) [5] (#cite_note-ind-5) The Myanmar longyi originated from India. Similar garments are found in India (/wiki/India) , Bangladesh (/wiki/Bangladesh) , Sri Lanka (/wiki/Sri_Lanka) , and the Malay Archipelago (/wiki/Malay_Archipelago) . In the Indian subcontinent (/wiki/Indian_subcontinent) it is known variously as a lungi (/wiki/Lungi) , longi , kaili or saaram (/wiki/Sarong) . Design and style [ edit ] In Burma, longyis worn by males are called pahso ( ပုဆိုး ), while those worn by females are called htamein ( ထဘီ , or htamain ). Strictly speaking, they are not unisex attire, as the way they are worn as well as the patterns and makeup are different between the genders. Men wear the modern paso by making a fold on either side in front and tied by tucking them together at the waist just below the navel. Women, on the other hand, always have a three cubit one finger span length but again unsewn in the old days like men's. They are worn wrapped around with a single broad fold in front and the end tucked in on one side or folding back at the hip and tucking into the opposite side of the waist, usually topped with a fitted blouse worn just to the waistband. Hemlines rise and fall as the fashion of the day dictates although they are unlikely to go up above the knee. Longyis are generally sold unsewn but nowadays they are available ready to wear; htameins may even be sewn like Western skirts. Untying and re-tying a longyi is often seen in public with both genders, women much more discreetly than men. Patterns and fabrics [ edit ] Longyis for sale, Mahamuni, Mandalay Burmese watercolour from the 19th century. A woman weaves a paso on a loom while a man, wearing a paso, looks on. Men's pasos are generally stripes or checks apart from plain colours and may be worn upside down or inside out with no difference. Women's htameins have a black calico band called a htet sint ( အထက်ဆင့် , lit. ' top band ' ) for the waist; they wear more multi-coloured and floral patterns, too. Cotton is the basic material but all sorts of fabrics, both imported and home-grown, may be made into longyis. [11] (#cite_note-11) Tootal, georgette, satin and crepe have been made into htameins. Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesia) batik (/wiki/Batik) , although very expensive, have been very popular for decades; outfits of batik ( ပါတိတ် ) of the same design top and bottom were very popular in the 1980s. For ceremonial and special occasions wearers use their best silks; the most elaborate ones are known as a cheik ( အချိတ် , lit. hook), a beautiful and intricate wave or houndstooth (/wiki/Houndstooth) pattern in several colour combinations from the weavers of Amarapura (/wiki/Amarapura) . They are worn especially at weddings, almost invariably by the bride and groom in matching colours. [12] (#cite_note-12) The poor may keep aside some traditional silks for special occasions. In ancient times silks generally were worn by royalty and courtiers, the royal pasos and htameins richly embroidered with gold, silver, pearls and precious stones. Modern reproductions of these may be seen on the stage at zat pwè s (theatrical performances). Ethnic and regional weaves and patterns are plenty and popular. There are Rakhine (/wiki/Rakhine_people) longyi, Mon (/wiki/Mon_people) longyi, Kachin (/wiki/Kachin_people) longyi, Inle (/wiki/Inle_lake) longyi, Zin Mè ( Chiang Mai (/wiki/Chiang_Mai) ) longyi, Yaw longyi, Seikkhun longyi, Dawei (/wiki/Dawei) longyi and more. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) Silk pasos, but not acheik , that men wear for special occasions are called Bangauk ( Bangkok (/wiki/Bangkok) ) paso. Kala (Indian) paso are often longer and are worn by taller people; Kaka zin refers to a broad check pattern of black, brown and white worn by Indian teashop owners. Mercerised (/wiki/Mercerization) longyis from India are popular as the fabric is more durable. Acheik htameins, a private collection Kachin (/wiki/Kachin_people) longyi with tartan design Versatility and convenience [ edit ] Burmese men with their longyi hitched up ( paso hkadaung kyaik ), playing chinlone (/wiki/Chinlone) in a Yangon (/wiki/Yangon) neighbourhood The longyi suits the climate as it allows some air to circulate and keeps cool in the hot sun. Silk is unique in keeping warm in the winter as well as cool in the summer. The longyi is versatile. Men often tuck the lower portions of their pasos at the top by bunching it in the front then passing it up between the legs round the back to the waist, known as paso hkadaung kyaik and, rather like the dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) , usually for climbing and sporting activities instead of changing into shorts or trousers. [16] (#cite_note-16) Soldiers in ancient times wore their pasos in this manner either on their own or on top of a pair of trousers. In rural areas men are often seen with a folded paso on one shoulder either for use when bathing ( yei lè — lit. ' water change ' — longyi) or for use as a cushion for a carrying pole on the shoulder or a heavy load on the back. Women, when they bathe, simply wear their htamein higher by tucking it just under the arms to cover their breasts before removing the blouse; they may be seen using the htamein as a buoy in the river by trapping some air in and secured underneath by the hands. They use a man's paso or another piece of long fabric, rolled and coiled as a cushion on top of their heads to carry water pots, firewood, baskets and trays; it is the street hawker's customary way of carrying wares. Changing is done simply by stepping into the new longyi and pulling it up, at the same time loosening and dropping the old one, or the new one can be pulled over from the head down. However, even when in private, women change without removing all their clothes. Instead, they will wear one htamein while changing into a new one. A woman may be seen pulling her htamein up bit by bit as she wades deeper and deeper into a river without getting it wet. It is merely a matter of lifting it up in the bathroom or in bed for that matter. Washing and ironing cannot be simpler as they are cylindrical pieces of cloth, easily hung, pressed, folded and stacked with a bare minimum use of wardrobe space. Lethwei [ edit ] In ancient times, traditionally Lethwei (/wiki/Lethwei) fighters would hitch up their longyi to compete in matches. [1] (#cite_note-Longyi_LW-1) Fighters would put it up as "shorts" called paso hkadaung kyaik to be able to use their legs and kick. Nowadays, in Lethwei matches fighters wear shorts which arbor a flag reminiscing of the longyi ancient days. Late 19th century Lethwei match in Myanmar. The fighters on the left bears a Htoe Kwin (/wiki/Htoe_Kwin) tattoos and hitched up longyi (paso hkadaung kyaik). A statue wearing a paso hkadaung kyaik Watercolour painting from 1897 depicting a 19th-century boxing match. All fighters wear longyi and Htoe Kwin (/wiki/Htoe_Kwin) tattoos. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Malong (/wiki/Malong) Patadyong (/wiki/Patadyong) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Sampot (/wiki/Sampot) Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Matthew Carter (December 23, 2018). "Lethwei Fighters Wear Skirts!" (http://lethweiworld.com/real-men-wear-skirts/) . Lethwei World. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Thant Myint-U (2008). The River of Lost Footsteps: A Personal History of Burma . Macmillan. p. 182. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780374531164 . ^ (#cite_ref-judson_3-0) Judson, Adinoram (1893). Judson's Burmese-English dictionary . Government of Burma. ^ Jump up to: a b Ferrars, Max; Bertha Ferrars (1900). Burma . S. Low, Marston and Company. ^ Jump up to: a b Imperial gazetteer of India . Vol. 10. Superintendent of Government Printing. 1908. p. 46. ^ Jump up to: a b c Sir Henry Yule (1858). A narrative of the mission sent by the governor-general of India to the court of Ava in 1855: with notices of the country, government, and people . Smith, Elder and co. pp. 154 (https://archive.org/details/narrativeofmissi00yulerich/page/n203) . ^ Jump up to: a b Bowie, Katherine A. (February 1993). "Assessing the Early Observers: Cloth and the Fabric of Society in 19th-Century Northern Thai Kingdoms". American Ethnologist . 20 (3): 138–158. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1525/ae.1993.20.1.02a00070 (https://doi.org/10.1525%2Fae.1993.20.1.02a00070) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 645416 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/645416) . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Horn, Robert (2011-02-24). "Why Did Burma's Leader Appear on TV in Women's Clothes?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110301022607/http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,2053563,00.html) . TIME . Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,2053563,00.html) on March 1, 2011 . Retrieved 8 March 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) WAI MOE (2011-02-17). "Than Shwe Skirts the Issue" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120314131826/http://www.irrawaddymedia.com/opinion_story.php?art_id=20782) . The Irrawaddy . Archived from the original (http://www.irrawaddymedia.com/opinion_story.php?art_id=20782) on 14 March 2012 . Retrieved 8 March 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-BrasseyBroome2010_10-0) Annie Brassey; Mary Anne Broome (23 December 2010). The Last Voyage, to India and Australia, in the Sunbeam . Cambridge University Press. p. 121. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-108-02471-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Myanmar Longyi" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060623110212/http://myanmartravelinformation.com/mti-myanmar-culture/longyi.htm) . Archived from the original (http://myanmartravelinformation.com/mti-myanmar-culture/longyi.htm) on 2006-06-23. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Bird, George W (1897). Wanderings in Burma . London: F J Bright & Son. p. 48. ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Inle longyi inc. video" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071006184747/http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/pages/cotinlay.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/pages/cotinlay.html) on 2007-10-06. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Yaw longyi from Gangaw inc. video" (https://web.archive.org/web/20050313214444/http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/page1/yawclo.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/page1/yawclo.html) on 2005-03-13. ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Dawei longyi from Tanintharyi inc. video" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071006185408/http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/pages/daweiwea.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/pages/daweiwea.html) on 2007-10-06. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Marshall, Andrew (2002). The Trouser People . Washington DC: Counterpoint. jacket photo,30. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781582431208 . 14.Amitav Ghosh (2002) The Glass Palace pp 25, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-375-75877-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-375-75877-1) External links [ edit ] Myanmar Fashion from Myanmar Image Gallery (https://web.archive.org/web/20140316125713/http://www.myanmar-image.com/newmenu/costume/) Burma Silks inc. video (https://web.archive.org/web/20050313214818/http://www.mrtv3.net.mm/pages/100shul.html) v t e Clothing of Myanmar (/wiki/Burmese_clothing) Clothes Longyi Paso (clothing) (/w/index.php?title=Paso_(clothing)&action=edit&redlink=1) Htamein (/wiki/Htamein) Jackets Htaingmathein (/wiki/Htaingmathein) Taikpon (/wiki/Magua_(clothing)) Royal and military attire Dayindaw (/w/index.php?title=Dayindaw&action=edit&redlink=1) Mahālatā (/w/index.php?title=Mah%C4%81lat%C4%81&action=edit&redlink=1) Wutlone (/w/index.php?title=Wutlone&action=edit&redlink=1) Thoyin-eingyi (/w/index.php?title=Thoyin-eingyi&action=edit&redlink=1) Pants Fisherman 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Traditional dress of Scotland's highlands and isles This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Highland_dress) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Highland dress" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Highland+dress%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Highland+dress%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Highland+dress%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Highland+dress%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Highland+dress%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Highland+dress%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( November 2008 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) King Edward VII (/wiki/Edward_VII) in a tweed (/wiki/Tweed_(cloth)) Argyll jacket (/wiki/Argyll_jacket) , kilt and Glengarry bonnet (/wiki/Glengarry_bonnet) (1904) Highland dress is the traditional, regional dress (/wiki/National_dress) of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland (/wiki/Scotland) . It is often characterised by tartan (/wiki/Tartan) ( plaid in North America). Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice (/wiki/Bodice) and headwear may also be worn along with clan badges and other devices indicating family and heritage. Men's Highland dress typically includes a kilt (/wiki/Kilt) or trews (/wiki/Trews) of his clan tartan, along with either a tartan full plaid (/wiki/Full_plaid) , fly plaid (/wiki/Fly_plaid) , or short belted plaid (/wiki/Belted_plaid) . There are a number of accessories, which may include but are not limited to: a belt, sporran (/wiki/Sporran) , sgian-dubh (/wiki/Sgian-dubh) , knee-socks with a cuff known as kilt hose, garters (/wiki/Garters) , kilt pins and clan badges. Women's Highland dress is also based on the clan tartan, either that of her birth clan or, if married, that of her spouse's clan if she so chooses. Traditionally, women and girls do not wear kilts but may wear ankle-length tartan skirts (/wiki/Skirt) , along with a colour-coordinated blouse and vest. A tartan earasaid (/wiki/Earasaid) , sash (/wiki/Sash) or tonnag (/wiki/Shawl) (smaller shawl) may also be worn, usually pinned with a brooch (/wiki/Brooch) , sometimes with a clan badge or other family or cultural motif. Modern Highland dress [ edit ] Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e This section's factual accuracy is disputed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Accuracy_dispute) . Relevant discussion may be found on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Highland_dress#Disputed) . Please help to ensure that disputed statements are reliably sourced (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) . ( October 2011 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) In the modern era, Scottish Highland dress can be worn casually, or worn as formal wear to white tie and black tie occasions, especially at ceilidhs (/wiki/C%C3%A9ilidh) and weddings. Just as the black tie dress code has increased in use in England for formal events which historically may have called for white tie, so too is the black tie version of Highland dress increasingly common. The codification of "proper" Highland dress for formal and semi-formal wear took place during the Victorian era, and these styles have changed little since then (e.g. the Prince Charlie, Sheriffmuir, and regulation jackets have an antique appearance, being based on Victorian military doublets of Highland regiments (/wiki/Highland_regiment) ). In observing "constraints imposed by supposed rules and regulations governing ... what is perceived as permissible in Highland dress", Scottish historian Hugh Cheape writes (2012) that "uniform styles and conformity in dress conventions have emerged since the late nineteenth century and have been encoded in books and tailors' patterns; strict observance is expected and in some circles has become a touchstone of Scottishness. The perpetuation of such views, relatively recently formed, is a self-assumed role of guardians of Scottish 'ethnicity'." [1] (#cite_note-1) He contrasts this mode of regulated Highland dress with the kilt's contemporary "renaissance as a style item ... even a post-modern trend in kilt-wear instigated with the 1970s and 1980s punk styles (/wiki/Punk_fashion) ; we see the kilt worn with chunky socks, boots, white T-shirt and black jacket". [2] (#cite_note-2) Regardless of formality level, the basis of all modern men's and women's Highland dress starts with the tartan (/wiki/Tartan) , either as a kilt (/wiki/Kilt) , trews (/wiki/Trews) , arisaid (/wiki/Arisaid) , sash (/wiki/Sash) , or tonnag (/wiki/Shawl) . Tartans in Scotland are registered at the Scottish Register of Tartans (/wiki/Scottish_Register_of_Tartans) in Edinburgh, a non-ministerial department (/wiki/Non-ministerial_government_department) and are usually aligned to a clan (/wiki/Scottish_clan#Tartan) or branch of a clan; however, tartans can also be registered exclusively for an individual or institution, and many "district" or "national" patterns also exist that have no associations to particular families or organisations. Historically, weaponry formed a common accessory of men's Highland dress, such as the mattucashlass (/wiki/Mattucashlass) and the dirk (/wiki/Dirk#Highland_dirk) . However, due to the UK's knife laws, small sgian-dubhs (/wiki/Sgian-dubh) and sword shape kilt pins (/wiki/Kilt_pin) are more commonly seen today. [3] (#cite_note-3) For men's and women's shoes, dance ghillies (/wiki/Ghillies_(dance)) are thin, foldable turnshoes (/wiki/Turnshoes) , now used mostly for indoor wear and Scottish dancing (/wiki/Scottish_country_dance) . The sole and uppers cut from one piece of leather, wrapped around the foot from the bottom, laced at the top, and seamed at the heel and toe. Ghillie brogues (/wiki/Brogue_shoe#Ghillie_brogues) are thick-soled welted-rand (/wiki/Shoe#Middle_Ages_and_Early_Modern_period) shoes. In both, the laces are wrapped around and tied firmly above the wearer's ankles so that the shoes do not get pulled off in the mud. The shoes lack tongues so the wearer's feet can dry more quickly in the typically damp Scottish weather. Formal day wear (morning dress) [ edit ] Further information: Formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) and Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) James Carnegie, 3rd Duke of Fife (/wiki/James_Carnegie,_3rd_Duke_of_Fife) , in a plain-cuff Crail jacket (1984) Highland dress may also be worn as a folk-costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) option at events requiring morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) . As such, for formal day-wear use it generally consists of: [4] (#cite_note-So_that's_how_to_wear_your_kilt-4) [5] (#cite_note-WhatToWear-5) Men: Plain superfine wool or barathea (/wiki/Barathea) black, charcoal (/wiki/Charcoal) or tweed (/wiki/Tweed_(cloth)) Argyll (/wiki/Argyll_jacket) -, Crail-, and Braemar-style kilt jacket Belt and buckle or five- or six-button waistcoat in matching grey, putty, complementary or tartan (/wiki/Tartan) material in matching colour Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) White shirt with turndown collar (/wiki/Turndown_collar) , French cuffs (/wiki/French_cuffs) , and cufflinks (/wiki/Cufflinks) Long tie in a single colour or striped regimental style Black brogues (/wiki/Brogues) (according to some views, brown shoes should never be worn with Highland dress, although such are worn by the royals) Tartan, argyle (/wiki/Argyle_(pattern)) , diced (/wiki/Sillitoe_tartan) , or plain coloured dark hose (white and off-white hose should be avoided) Flashes or garter ties Day or horse hair sporran (/wiki/Sporran) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) sgian-dubh (/wiki/Sgian-dubh) (less intricate than for the full dress and typically made of horn or antler). Formal evening wear (white tie) [ edit ] Further information: Formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) and White tie (/wiki/White_tie) The traditional white-tie (/wiki/White_tie) version of Highland dress consists of: Men: Formal kilt doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(Highland_dress)) in barathea (/wiki/Barathea) or velvet (/wiki/Velvet) . The regulation, Montrose, Sheriffmuir and Kenmore doublets (/wiki/Doublet_(Highland_dress)) are suitable in a variety of colours. Velvet is considered to be a more formal material. The Prince Charlie jacket (/wiki/Prince_Charlie_jacket) ( coatee (/wiki/Coatee) ) is considered to be less formal, [ by whom? ] although when introduced it was to be worn with a white lace jabot (/wiki/Jabot_(neckwear)) . Tartan jackets are also seen. Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) in white marcella (/wiki/Piqu%C3%A9_(weaving)) , tartan (usually to match the kilt), red or the same material as the doublet. No waistcoat is worn with the Kenmore or Montrose doublets. Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) with formal kilt pin (/wiki/Kilt_pin) White stiff-front shirt with wing collar (/wiki/Wing_collar) and white, gold, or silver studs and cufflinks for the Regulation doublet, or a white formal shirt and optional lace cuffs for the Montrose, Sheriffmuir, and Kenmore doublets White lace (/wiki/Lace) jabot (/wiki/Jabot_(neckwear)) . A black silk or a white marcella bow tie may be worn in place of the jabot with the regulation doublet (Highland wear often includes a black bow tie even at white-tie events). Black formal shoes or black buckle brogues Tartan (/wiki/Tartan) or diced kilt hose Silk garter flashes (/w/index.php?title=Garter_flashes&action=edit&redlink=1) or garter ties (/w/index.php?title=Garter_ties&action=edit&redlink=1) Silver-mounted sporran (/wiki/Sporran) in fur, sealskin or hair with a silver chain belt Black, silver-mounted and jeweled sgian-dubh (/wiki/Sgian-dubh) Highland bonnet (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)#Men) ( Balmoral (/wiki/Balmoral_bonnet) or Glengarry (/wiki/Glengarry) ) with crest (/wiki/Heraldic_crest) badge (/wiki/Heraldic_badge) (only worn outdoors) [6] (#cite_note-Collins-6) Short belted plaid with silver plaid brooch (optional) Scottish dirk (/wiki/Dirk) (optional) Semi-formal day wear (black lounge suit equivalent) [ edit ] Further information: Semi-formal wear (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) and Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) The semi-formal version of Highland dress consists of: [4] (#cite_note-So_that's_how_to_wear_your_kilt-4) [5] (#cite_note-WhatToWear-5) Men: Black or charcoal semi-formal kilt jacket (/wiki/Kilt_jacket) in superfine wool or barathea (/wiki/Barathea) – Argyll (/wiki/Argyll_jacket) -, Crail-, and Braemar-style jackets are suitable Five- or six-button waistcoat in black, grey, putty or tartan (/wiki/Tartan) Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) White shirt with turndown collar (/wiki/Turndown_collar) , French cuffs (/wiki/French_cuff) , and cufflinks (/wiki/Cufflinks) Tie in a single colour Black brogues Tartan, argyle (/wiki/Argyle_(pattern)) , diced (/wiki/Sillitoe_tartan) or dark hose (white and off-white hose should be avoided) Flashes or garter ties Day-dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) sporran (/wiki/Sporran) with simple designs and often in black leather – however, a full dress sporran is not considered inappropriate Day-dress sgian-dubh (/wiki/Sgian-dubh) (less intricate than for the full dress and typically made of horn or antler) Semi-formal evening wear (black tie) [ edit ] Further information: Semi-formal wear (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) and Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black-tie Highland dress with kilt (/wiki/Kilt) (in Campbell of Argyll (/wiki/Campbell_of_Argyll) tartan) and Prince Charlie jacket (2021) Traditionally, black-tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Highland dress comprises: Men: Black, or other solid colour, barathea (/wiki/Barathea) jacket with silver buttons – Regulation doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(Highland_dress)) , Prince Charlie (/wiki/Prince_Charlie_jacket) ( coatee (/wiki/Coatee) ), Brian Boru (/w/index.php?title=Brian_Boru_jacket&action=edit&redlink=1) , Braemar (/w/index.php?title=Braemar_jacket&action=edit&redlink=1) , Argyll (/wiki/Argyll_jacket) , and black mess jackets (/wiki/Mess_jacket) are suitable (there is some contention about whether the Duke of Montrose (/w/index.php?title=Duke_of_Montrose_doublet&action=edit&redlink=1) and Sheriffmuir doublets (/wiki/Sheriffmuir_doublet) are too formal for black-tie occasions) Black waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Kilt (/wiki/Kilt) White shirt with shirt studs (/wiki/Shirt_studs) , French or barrel cuffs (/wiki/Barrel_cuff) , and a turndown collar (/wiki/Turndown_collar) ( wing collars (/wiki/Wing_collar) are reserved for white tie (/wiki/White_tie) ) Black bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) Evening dress brogues (/wiki/Brogues) Tartan or diced full-dress kilt hose (/w/index.php?title=Kilt_hose&action=edit&redlink=1) – off-white hose are often seen but are deplored by some, such as the late David Lumsden of Cushnie (/wiki/David_Lumsden_of_Cushnie) [7] (#cite_note-7) Silk flashes (/w/index.php?title=Garter_flashes&action=edit&redlink=1) or garter ties (/w/index.php?title=Garter_ties&action=edit&redlink=1) Dress sporran (/wiki/Sporran) with silver chain Black, silver-mounted sgian dubh (/wiki/Sgian_dubh) Highland bonnet with crest badge (only suitable outdoors) [8] (#cite_note-8) Miniature medals (/wiki/Medal) (if authorised) Historical descriptions [ edit ] Highlanders wearing kilts, plaids, bonnets, and an early example of trews; 1631 German engraving. The Highland Wedding , David Allan (1780) In 1618, a poet from London, John Taylor (/wiki/John_Taylor_(poet)) , described the costume of Scottish aristocrats, lairds (/wiki/Laird) , and their followers and servants, dressed for hunting at Braemar (/wiki/Braemar) . In August and September, all classes dressed in the same fashion by custom, as if equals. This included tartan (/wiki/Tartan) stockings (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) and jerkins (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) , with garters (/wiki/Garter_(stockings)) of twisted straw (/wiki/Straw) , and a finer plaid mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) round their shoulders. They had knotted handkerchiefs (/wiki/Kerchief) at their necks and wore blue caps (/wiki/Cap) . Taylor said the tartan was "warm stuff of diverse colours." [9] (#cite_note-9) Near the end of the seventeenth century, Martin Martin (/wiki/Martin_Martin) gave a description of traditional women's clothing in the Western Islands (/wiki/Hebrides) , the earasaid (/wiki/Earasaid) with its brooches (/wiki/Brooch) and buckles (/wiki/Buckle) . "The ancient dress wore by the women, and which is yet wore by some of the vulgar, called arisad , is a white plaid (/wiki/Full_plaid) , having a few small stripes of black, blue and red; it reached from the neck to the heels, and was tied before on the breast with a buckle of silver or brass, according to the quality of the person. I have seen some of the former of an hundred marks (/wiki/Merk_(coin)) value; it was broad as any ordinary pewter plate, the whole curiously engraven with various animals (/wiki/Animal_style) etc. There was a lesser buckle which was wore in the middle of the larger, and above two ounces (/wiki/Ounce) weight; it had in the centre a large piece of crystal (/wiki/Smoky_quartz) , or some finer stone, and this was set all around with several finer stones of a lesser size. The plaid being pleated (/wiki/Pleat) all round, was tied with a belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) below the breast; the belt was of leather, and several pieces of silver intermixed with the leather like a chain (/wiki/Chain) . The lower end of the belt has a piece of plate about eight inches (/wiki/Inch) long, and three in breadth, curiously engraven; the end of which was adorned with fine stones, or pieces of red coral (/wiki/Red_coral) . They wore sleeves (/wiki/Sleeve) of scarlet cloth, closed at the end as men's vests (/wiki/Waistcoat) , with gold lace (/wiki/Lace) round them, having plate buttons (/wiki/Button) with fine stones. The head dress was a fine kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) of linen (/wiki/Linen) strait (tight) about the head, hanging down the back taper-wise; a large lock of hair hangs down their cheeks above their breast, the lower end tied with a knot of ribbands (/wiki/Ribband) ." [10] (#cite_note-10) According to the English military chaplain Thomas Morer in 1689, Highland men wore plaids about seven or eight yards (/wiki/Yard) (6.4 to 7.3 m) long, which covered from the neck to the knees except the right arm. Beneath the plaid they wore a waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat#History) or a shirt (/wiki/Shirt) to the same length as the drape of the plaid. These were " belted plaids (/wiki/Belted_plaid) ." Their stockings were made of the same stuff as the plaid and their shoes were called "brocks" ( brogues (/wiki/Brogue_shoe) ). Bonnets (/wiki/Blue_bonnet_(hat)) were blue or "sad" coloured. Morer noted that the fineness of the fabric varied according to the wealth and status of the man. Scottish Lowlanders (/wiki/Scottish_Lowlands) and Borderers were dressed much like the English, except both men and women also used a plaid as a cloak (/wiki/Cloak) . The Lowland women wrapped their plaids over their heads as hoods (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) , [11] (#cite_note-11) whereas Lowland and Border men wore a checkered maud (plaid) (/wiki/Maud_(plaid)) wrapped about their upper body. [12] (#cite_note-12) The maud, woven in a pattern known variously as Border tartan (/wiki/Border_tartan) , Falkirk tartan, Shepherd's check, Shepherd's plaid [13] (#cite_note-13) and Galashiels grey, became the identifying feature of Border dress as a result of the garment's mention by fashionable Border Scots such as Walter Scott (/wiki/Walter_Scott) , James Hogg (/wiki/James_Hogg) and Henry Scott Riddell (/wiki/Henry_Scott_Riddell) and their wearing of it in public. [14] (#cite_note-14) Together with Robert Burns (/wiki/Robbie_Burns) , they can be seen wearing a maud in portraits, etchings and statues. Highland chieftain Lord Mungo Murray wearing belted plaid, around 1680. A woman wearing an earasaid (/wiki/Earasaid) , and the typical hairstyle of a married woman, with a child in Matheson (/wiki/Clan_Matheson) tartan (1845) from a description of 150 years before. A member of Clan MacNeacail (/wiki/Clan_MacNeacail) , from The Clans of the Scottish Highlands , wearing a tonnag R. R. McIan (/wiki/R._R._McIan) (1845) Portrait by Henry Raeburn (/wiki/Henry_Raeburn) of Alexander Ranaldson MacDonell of Glengarry (/wiki/Alexander_Ranaldson_MacDonell_of_Glengarry) in 1812. Campbell of Breadalbane (~1845-1847) Costumes of All Nations (1882) Gallery [ edit ] Boy wearing open necked velvet doublet, kilt and plaid (1898) Highland Dress advertisement (1957) Black Barathea (/wiki/Barathea) Silver Button Argyll (BBSBA) jacket, worn with a five button waistcoat and long tie for day wear (2006) A modern style of ghillies (/wiki/Ghillies_(dance)) made specifically for dancing (2006) Piper playing the Great Highland Bagpipes (/wiki/Great_Highland_Bagpipes) in traditional Scottish piper's uniform (2010) [a] (#cite_note-15) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-15) From top to bottom these are called, feather bonnet (/wiki/Feather_bonnet) , doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) , plaid and plaid brooch (/wiki/Brooch) , belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) , sporran (/wiki/Sporran) , kilt (/wiki/Kilt) , hose (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) tops, spats (/wiki/Spats_(footwear)) , brogues (/wiki/Brogues) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Cheape, Hugh (2012). " Gheibhte Breacain Charnaid ('Scarlet Tartans Would Be Got ...'): The Re-invention of Tradition". In Brown, Ian (ed.). From Tartan to Tartanry: Scottish Culture, History and Myth . Edinburgh University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7486-6464-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Cheape (2012) (#CH2012) , p. 14. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Sgian Dubhs" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221010174609/http://www.tartansauthority.com/highland-dress/modern/sgian-dubhs/) . TartansAuthority.com . Scottish Tartans Authority (/wiki/Scottish_Tartans_Authority) . Archived from the original (http://www.tartansauthority.com/highland-dress/modern/sgian-dubhs/) on 10 October 2022 . Retrieved 11 July 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b "So that's how to wear your kilt" (http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/so-that-s-how-to-wear-your-kilt-1-531264) . The Scotsman (/wiki/The_Scotsman) . 17 May 2004. ^ Jump up to: a b "What to Wear?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20221126161120/http://www.tartansauthority.com/highland-dress/modern/what-to-wear/) . Scottish Tartans Authority (/wiki/Scottish_Tartans_Authority) . Archived from the original (http://www.tartansauthority.com/highland-dress/modern/what-to-wear/) on 26 November 2022 . Retrieved 11 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Collins_6-0) Collins English Dictionary 21st Century Edition Harper Collins (2001) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-00-472529-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-00-472529-8) ^ (#cite_ref-7) "David Lumsden of Cushnie" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/2826366/David-Lumsden-of-Cushnie.html) . Telegraph.co.uk (/wiki/Telegraph.co.uk) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . 12 September 2008 . Retrieved 13 May 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) MacKinnon, C. R. (/wiki/C._R._MacKinnon) (1970). Scottish Tartans & Highland Dress . Glasgow / London: Wm. Collins Sons & Co. p. 98. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-00-411114-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Taylor, John, (https://archive.org/details/earlyprosepoetic00taylrich) Early Prose & Poetical Works , London & Glasgow, (1888) (https://archive.org/details/earlyprosepoetic00taylrich) , pp.49-50. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Martin, Description of the Western Islands of Scotland , (1703), pp.208-209: quoted in Robertson, ed., Inventaires de la Royne Desscosse , Bannatyne Club, (1863) p.lxviii footnote. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Hume Brown, P., Early Travellers in Scotland James Thin (1891 repr. 1978), 269-270, 272, quoting Morer, Thomas, A Short Account of Scotland (1715) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Craig, A. (1837). Parish of Bedrule. New Statistical Account of Scotland (https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails.aspx?ref=3781) (vol. 3). Edinburgh: Blackwood. ^ (#cite_ref-13) The Scottish Register of Tartans. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Moffat, A. (2015). Scotland: A history from the earliest times. Edinburgh: Birlinn. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Highland dress (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Highland_dress) . 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Sweatshirt with a hood For other uses, see Hoodie (disambiguation) (/wiki/Hoodie_(disambiguation)) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Hoodie) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Hoodie" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Hoodie%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Hoodie%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Hoodie%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Hoodie%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Hoodie%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Hoodie%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( July 2015 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) American football player Marvin Jones (/wiki/Marvin_Jones_(wide_receiver)) wearing a hoodie A hoodie (in some cases spelled hoody ) [1] (#cite_note-Oxford-1) or hooded sweatshirt [2] (#cite_note-2) is a type of sweatshirt (/wiki/Sweatshirts) [1] (#cite_note-Oxford-1) with a hood that, when worn up, covers most of the head and neck, and sometimes the face. The name 'hoodie' entered popular usage in the 1990s. [1] (#cite_note-Oxford-1) The most common 'pullover' style hoodies often include a single large kangaroo pocket (/wiki/Kangaroo_pocket) or muff (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) on the lower front, while hoodies with zippers usually include two pockets (/wiki/Pocket) , one on either side of the zipper, in the same location. Both styles typically include a drawstring (/wiki/Drawstring) to adjust the hood opening. Hoodies may be worn for aesthetic purposes, or protection against the weather, such as cold, wind, and rain. History [ edit ] This 19th-century book illustration copies a 12th-century English image of a man wearing a hooded tunic. The word hood (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/hood) derives from the Anglo-Saxon word hōd , [3] (#cite_note-Cyclopaedia-3) ultimately of the same root as an English hat . [4] (#cite_note-4) The garment's style and form can be traced back to Medieval Europe (/wiki/Medieval_Europe) when the preferred clothing for Catholic (/wiki/Catholic) monks (/wiki/Monks) included a hood called a cowl (/wiki/Cowl) attached to a tunic (/wiki/Tunic) or robes, [5] (#cite_note-yusuf-5) and a chaperon (/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear)) or hooded cape was very commonly worn by any outdoors worker. [6] (#cite_note-Champion_Hoodie-6) Its appearance was known in England at least as early as the 12th century, possibly an import with the Norman conquest of England (/wiki/Norman_conquest_of_England) , as the capa was "a short hooded cloak which was common in Normandy." [3] (#cite_note-Cyclopaedia-3) A person wearing a pullover hoodie The hooded pullover is a utilitarian garment that originated in the 1930s in the US for workers in cold New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) warehouses. [7] (#cite_note-TampaTribune20120324-7) The earliest clothing style was first produced by Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) in the 1930s in Rochester (/wiki/Rochester,_New_York) and marketed to laborers working in freezing temperatures in upstate New York (/wiki/Upstate_New_York) . [8] (#cite_note-nyt-8) The hoodie became popular in the 1970s (/wiki/1970s_in_fashion) , with several factors contributing to its success. Hip hop culture (/wiki/Hip_hop_culture) developed in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) around this time and high fashion also took off during this era, as Norma Kamali and other high-profile designers embraced and glamorized the new clothing. [5] (#cite_note-yusuf-5) Most critical to the hoodie's popularity during this time was its iconic appearance in the blockbuster Rocky (/wiki/Rocky) film. [9] (#cite_note-9) The rise of hoodies with university logos began around this time. [ citation needed ] By the 1990s (/wiki/1990s_in_fashion) , the hoodie had evolved into a symbol of isolation, [10] (#cite_note-10) a statement of academic spirit, [ citation needed ] and several fashion collections. [11] (#cite_note-11) The association with ravers (/wiki/Rave) in the UK developed around this time, as their popularity rose with that specific demographic. [ citation needed ] Young men, often skateboarders (/wiki/Skateboarding) or surfers (/wiki/Surfing) , sported the hoodie and spread the trend across the western part of the United States, most significantly in California (/wiki/California) . [ citation needed ] Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger) , Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) , and Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) , for example, used the hoodie as the primary component for many of their collections in the 1990s. [5] (#cite_note-yusuf-5) [8] (#cite_note-nyt-8) A crystal-studded hoodie made by rapper Sean "Diddy" Combs (/wiki/Sean_Combs) was acquired by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. [7] (#cite_note-TampaTribune20120324-7) Culture [ edit ] Australia [ edit ] In June 2011, police in Wynnum (/wiki/Wynnum,_Queensland) , Brisbane (/wiki/Brisbane) , launched a "Hoodie Free Zone" initiative, with shopkeepers encouraged to ask hoodie-wearers to leave. The zone was part of an initiative to educate businesses on how they can avoid armed robberies, in which the hoodie type of clothing was reportedly often worn. [12] (#cite_note-12) Canada [ edit ] Across Canada, hoodies are a popular clothing item sometimes worn under a coat or jacket to provide an extra layer of clothing during the winter. In the province of Saskatchewan (/wiki/Saskatchewan) , hoodies without zippers are "bunny hugs." [13] (#cite_note-13) New Zealand [ edit ] The "Hoodies on Parliament—politicians challenge youth stereotypes" campaign was launched in May 2008 in New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand) (NZ) as part of the annual national Youth Week event, a pro-youth initiative organized to challenge youth stereotypes. To launch the campaign, NZ politicians, including National MP Nicky Wagner, Green Party MPs Sue Bradford, Nandor Tanczos and Metiria Turei, and Maori party MP Hone Harawira, wore hoodies while standing on the steps of the country's parliament. Archbishop David Moxon, Archbishop of the Anglican Dioceses, and Brian Turner President of the Methodist Church of NZ also participated in the campaign. [14] (#cite_note-14) Support and criticism were raised by politicians, who were divided over the 2008 event. [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-NZ_Herald_10512586-16) One strong response was drawn from a local government council member, Dale Evans, who donned a Ku Klux Klan (/wiki/Ku_Klux_Klan) outfit in protest, citing the hoodie as "not an appropriate article of clothing to celebrate." [17] (#cite_note-NZ_Herald_10513425-17) "Goodie in a Hoodie" day was then run in 2009 by New Zealand Adolescent Health and Development (NZAAHD) in partnership with Age Concern—the organisations used the campaign to highlight the stereotypes that both young people and the elderly face in New Zealand. Liz Baxendine, president of Age Concern at the time, said to the media: Older people and young people have a lot in common. We both face stereotypes based on our age rather than our real achievements and outlook on life ... we've got to destigmatise the hoodie and see it for what it is. Everyone wears them. We need to take the hoodie back! [18] (#cite_note-18) United Kingdom [ edit ] "No hoodies" sign outside a pub in South London, 2006 Butterfly Hoodie by Damien Hirst (/wiki/Damien_Hirst) for Adrian Nyman (/w/index.php?title=Adrian_Nyman&action=edit&redlink=1) (2008) In the UK, hoodies have been the subject of much criticism; some shoplifters have used the hood to conceal their identities from CCTV (/wiki/Closed-circuit_television) cameras in shopping centres. [19] (#cite_note-19) The hoodie became a popular clothing item by the 1990s. By the 21st century, it had gained a negative image, being associated with anti-social behaviour (/wiki/Anti-social_behavior) . It became one of the later items associated with " chavs (/wiki/Chav) ", or Neds (/wiki/Neds) . Angela McRobbie, professor of communications at Goldsmiths College (/wiki/Goldsmiths_College) in the UK, says the appeal of the hoodie is its promise of anonymity, mystery and anxiety. "The point of origin is obviously black American hip-hop (/wiki/Hip-hop) culture, now thoroughly mainstream and a key part of the global economy. Leisure and sportswear adopted for everyday wear suggests a distance from the world of office suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) or school uniform (/wiki/School_uniform) . Rap culture celebrates defiance, as it narrates the experience of social exclusion (/wiki/Social_exclusion) . Musically and stylistically, it projects menace and danger as well as anger and rage. The hooded top is one in a long line of garments chosen by young people, usually boys, to which are ascribed meanings suggesting that they are 'up to no good'. In the past, such appropriation was usually restricted to membership of specific youth cultures—leather jackets, bondage trousers (/wiki/Bondage_trousers) —but nowadays it is the norm among young people to flag up their music and cultural preferences in this way, hence the adoption of the hoodie by boys across the boundaries of age, ethnicity and class." [20] (#cite_note-guardian_2005-20) In May 2005, Bluewater (/wiki/Bluewater_(shopping_centre)) shopping centre in Kent (/wiki/Kent) caused outrage by launching a code of conduct which bans its shoppers from sporting hoodies or baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) , although the garments remain on sale. John Prescott (/wiki/John_Prescott) welcomed the move, stating that he was threatened by the presence of teenagers wearing hoodies at a motorway service station. [20] (#cite_note-guardian_2005-20) Then– Prime Minister (/wiki/Prime_Minister_of_the_United_Kingdom) Tony Blair (/wiki/Tony_Blair) openly supported this stance and vowed to clamp down on the anti-social behaviour (/wiki/Anti-social_behavior) with which hoodie-wearers are sometimes associated. London-based rapper Lady Sovereign (/wiki/Lady_Sovereign) published a single titled " Hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie_(Lady_Sovereign_song)) " in protest as part of a "Save the Hoodie" campaign. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2005, Coombeshead College (/wiki/Coombeshead_College) in the south-west of England allowed the hoodie to become part of the boys' school uniform (/wiki/School_uniform) , but the hood could be put up only when it rained. The principal, Richard Haigh, stated that the move would help to calm some of what he called the "hysteria" surrounding the garment. [22] (#cite_note-22) In February 2006, a 58-year-old teacher who was wearing a hooded top was asked to remove it when entering a Tesco (/wiki/Tesco) store in Swindon (/wiki/Swindon) . According to the teacher, she was wearing the hood because "my hair's a mess". The store did not have a hoodie policy. The shop apologized and said it was taking action to "make sure this doesn't happen again." [23] (#cite_note-23) In July 2006, David Cameron (/wiki/David_Cameron) , leader of the Conservative Party (/wiki/Conservative_Party_(UK)) , made a speech suggesting that the hoodie was worn more for defensive than offensive purposes. [24] (#cite_note-24) The speech was referred to as "hug a hoodie" by the Labour Party (/wiki/Labour_Party_(UK)) . [25] (#cite_note-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) In 2019 the British fashion label Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) had to apologize for an inappropriate hoodie. On its runaway show, the fashion label featured a piece of cloth with a "noose" around the neck, which caused an outrageous reaction in social media. [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) A March 2020 article in the Belfast Telegraph (/wiki/Belfast_Telegraph) argued that hoodies were not as associated with the working class as in previous years, noting that Kate Middleton (/wiki/Kate_Middleton) had appeared in a hoodie. [29] (#cite_note-29) United States [ edit ] Souvenir Hoodies in Washington, D.C. Hoodies have become a mainstream fashion in the U.S., transcending the clothing item's original utilitarian purpose, [30] (#cite_note-30) similar to jeans (/wiki/Jeans) . This clothing item has found its way into a variety of styles, even so far as to be worn under a suit jacket. [31] (#cite_note-31) Hoodies with zippers are generally referred to as zip-up hoodies, [32] (#cite_note-Esquire2021-32) [33] (#cite_note-RollingStone2020-33) [34] (#cite_note-BunnyEars2020-34) while a hoodie without a zipper may be described as a pullover hoodie. [35] (#cite_note-GearPatrol2021-35) Throughout the U.S., it is common for teenagers and young adults to wear sweatshirts—with or without hoods—that display their respective school names or mascots across the chest, either as part of a uniform or personal preference. [36] (#cite_note-36) The hooded sweatshirt is a utilitarian garment that originated in the 1930s for workers in cold New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) warehouses and thus have been around for over 90 years. [7] (#cite_note-TampaTribune20120324-7) In the 1970s and 1980s, hoodies were adopted by hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop) culture as a symbol of what one reporter termed "cool anonymity and vague menace". [7] (#cite_note-TampaTribune20120324-7) When the garment was depicted in FBI composite drawings of Unabomber Ted Kaczynski (/wiki/Ted_Kaczynski) , the hoodie became linked to "seedy threatening criminality", thereby further asserting its non-mainstream symbolism. [7] (#cite_note-TampaTribune20120324-7) In 2012 Trayvon Martin (/wiki/Killing_of_Trayvon_Martin) was shot by George Zimmerman while wearing a hoodie, and protests over his death involved hoodies. [7] (#cite_note-TampaTribune20120324-7) [37] (#cite_note-CSMonitor20130706-37) Fox News (/wiki/Fox_News_Channel) host Geraldo Rivera (/wiki/Geraldo_Rivera) encouraged young black people to stop wearing hoodies [38] (#cite_note-38) though he later apologized for his comments. [39] (#cite_note-39) Zimmerman's defense team offered what was called "the hoodie defense". They argued that it was reasonable for Zimmerman to regard Martin's hoodie as a threat. [40] (#cite_note-40) According to Carolyn Fluehr-Lobban (/wiki/Carolyn_Fluehr-Lobban) , author of Race and Racism , following Zimmerman's trial the garment became emblematic of the Black Lives Matter (/wiki/Black_Lives_Matter) movement. [41] (#cite_note-41) Dress Codes author, law Professor Richard Thompson Ford (/wiki/Richard_Thompson_Ford) , said that "As the hoodie became associated with 'Black hoodlums' in the media, some Black people avoided them and others embraced them: the public image of the hoodie made it into a statement of racial pride and defiance, solidarity with a community, an emblem of belonging, and all of that reinforced the negative associations for those who were inclined to be afraid of assertive Black people." [42] (#cite_note-Guardian_20210227-42) Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) CEO Mark Zuckerberg (/wiki/Mark_Zuckerberg) often wears a plain grey zip-up hoodie rather than a business suit, drawing comments during his company's 2012 initial public offering (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) . [43] (#cite_note-Forbes20120515-43) [44] (#cite_note-WashingtonPost20120510-44) Actor Jesse Eisenberg (/wiki/Jesse_Eisenberg) dons the same attire while portraying Zuckerberg in the 2010 film The Social Network (/wiki/The_Social_Network) . In 2015, Oklahoma state representative Don Barrington (/wiki/Don_Barrington) proposed a bill to criminalize wearing a "robe, mask or other disguise" in public that would "intentionally conceal the wearer's identity", a bill which was criticized as an attempt to criminalize the wearing of the hoodie. [45] (#cite_note-45) Vietnam [ edit ] Hoodies first made their way to Vietnam (/wiki/Vietnam) in the early 2000s, [46] (#cite_note-46) [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) quickly gaining popularity among young people for their youthful and practical style. [49] (#cite_note-49) [50] (#cite_note-50) Over time, they have become a staple fashion item for all ages, beloved for their comfort, warmth, and versatility. [51] (#cite_note-51) Nowadays, hoodies can be seen everywhere, from schools and pedestrian streets to fashion catwalks (/wiki/Catwalks) . [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) [55] (#cite_note-55) Both international and Vietnamese fashion brands offer a wide variety of hoodies in terms of design, material, and price. [56] (#cite_note-56) In 2023, hoodie revenue on Vietnamese e-commerce platforms reached 659.4 billion VND, a 93.1% increase compared to the previous quarter. [57] (#cite_note-57) Hackers [ edit ] In the early 21st century the image of hackers (/wiki/Hacker) became associated with hoodies. [58] (#cite_note-cnn-why-do-hackers-always-wear-hoodies-58) [59] (#cite_note-ringer-what-does-a-hacker-look-like-59) Elliot Alderson, the protagonist of Mr Robot (/wiki/Mr_Robot) , is a vigilante hacker who constantly wears a black hoodie. [59] (#cite_note-ringer-what-does-a-hacker-look-like-59) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Baja jacket (/wiki/Baja_jacket) Cardigan (sweater) (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) Goggle jacket (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Parka (/wiki/Parka) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "hoodie" (https://doi.org/10.1093/OED/8926623629) . Oxford English Dictionary (/wiki/Oxford_English_Dictionary) (Online ed.). Oxford University Press (/wiki/Oxford_University_Press) . doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1093/OED/8926623629 (https://doi.org/10.1093%2FOED%2F8926623629) . (Subscription or participating institution membership (https://www.oed.com/public/login/loggingin#withyourlibrary) required.) ^ (#cite_ref-2) GROSSMAN, AVIDAN. "The Best Hoodies to Wear Whenever and Wherever You Want" (https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/g3357/best-hoodies-men/) . Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200609105954/https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/g3357/best-hoodies-men/) from the original on 9 June 2020 . Retrieved 5 June 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Planché, James Robinson (1876). A Cyclopaedia of Costume Or Dictionary of Dress, Including Notices of Contemporaneous Fashions on the Continent . Vol. 1. London: Chatto and Windus. p. 291. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200729132307/https://books.google.com/books?id=jGMYAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA291) from the original on 29 July 2020 . Retrieved 26 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Article "hood" (http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=hood&allowed_in_frame=0) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170816062658/http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=hood&allowed_in_frame=0) 16 August 2017 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) , in Online Etymology Dictionary . ^ Jump up to: a b c Yusuf, Nilgin (12 August 2006). "The hoody grows up" (http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article1084338.ece) . Times Online . London. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090511062654/http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article1084338.ece) from the original on 11 May 2009 . Retrieved 28 June 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-Champion_Hoodie_6-0) Champion Hoodie (16 May 2019). "The Complete History Of Hoodie" (https://www.championhoodie.com/blog/hoodie-phenomenon) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191205185505/https://www.championhoodie.com/blog/hoodie-phenomenon/) from the original on 5 December 2019 . Retrieved 5 December 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Koehn, Donna (24 March 2012). "Hoodie becomes symbol of injustice" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140429184604/http://tbo.com/news/hoodie-becomes-symbol-of-injustice-384502) . The Tampa Tribune . Archived from the original (http://tbo.com/news/hoodie-becomes-symbol-of-injustice-384502) on 29 April 2014. ^ Jump up to: a b Wilson, Denis (23 December 2006). "A Look Under the Hoodie" (https://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/23/opinion/23wilson.html) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180124040051/http://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/23/opinion/23wilson.html) from the original on 24 January 2018 . Retrieved 22 February 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) The Blockbuster film Rocky in (1976) Hoodie Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191111223708/https://theblockgear.com/the-history-of-the-hoodie/) 11 November 2019 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-10) Article in Washington Post Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190614021929/https://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/blogpost/post/trayvon-martin-million-hoodie-march-a-short-history-of-the-hoodie/2012/03/22/gIQAeGCnTS_blog.html) 14 June 2019 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-11) Article in Fashion Beans Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191202062216/https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/how-to-wear-hoodies/) 2 December 2019 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) (How To Wear A Hoodie In 5 Modern Ways) ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Hood-free zones in Brisbane west" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110701165231/http://www.news.com.au/breaking-news/hood-free-zones-in-brisbane-west/story-e6frfku0-1226083718148) . AAP. 28 June 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.news.com.au/breaking-news/hood-free-zones-in-brisbane-west/story-e6frfku0-1226083718148) on 1 July 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Saskatchewan slang video a big hit" (http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatchewan/saskatchewan-slang-video-a-big-hit-1.2983009) . Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (/wiki/Canadian_Broadcasting_Corporation) . 5 May 2015. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20171212130706/http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatchewan/saskatchewan-slang-video-a-big-hit-1.2983009) from the original on 12 December 2017 . Retrieved 15 February 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Hoodies on Parliament challenging youth stereotype" (http://www.scoop.co.nz/stories/CU0805/S00305.htm) . Scoop . 29 May 2008. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181106130927/http://www.scoop.co.nz/stories/CU0805/S00305.htm) from the original on 6 November 2018 . Retrieved 7 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Politicians support Hoodie Day" (http://tvnz.co.nz/content/1806287/2591754.xhtml) . TVNZ . TVNZ.co.nz. 30 May 2008. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20151228181744/http://tvnz.co.nz/content/1806287/2591754.xhtml) from the original on 28 December 2015 . Retrieved 7 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-NZ_Herald_10512586_16-0) Tait, Maggie (26 May 2008). "Youth Week Hoodie Day criticised" (http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/1/story.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10512586) . The New Zealand Herald (/wiki/The_New_Zealand_Herald) . NZPA (/wiki/NZPA) . Retrieved 3 October 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-NZ_Herald_10513425_17-0) "Councillor stuns board with Ku Klux Klan outfit" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121108042203/http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10513425) . The New Zealand Herald (/wiki/The_New_Zealand_Herald) . 30 May 2008. Archived from the original (http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/1/story.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10513425) on 8 November 2012 . Retrieved 3 October 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) King, Kathryn (12 August 2009). "Oldies but hoodies" (http://www.nzherald.co.nz/wanganui-chronicle/news/article.cfm?c_id=1503426&objectid=10985317) . Wanganui Chronicle . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181106133425/https://www.nzherald.co.nz/wanganui-chronicle/news/article.cfm?c_id=1503426&objectid=10985317) from the original on 6 November 2018 . Retrieved 7 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) McLean, Gareth (13 May 2005). "In the hood" (https://www.theguardian.com/g2/story/0,3604,1482816,00.html) . The Guardian . London. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220418055028/https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2005/may/13/fashion.fashionandstyle) from the original on 18 April 2022 . Retrieved 14 December 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b McLean, Gareth (13 May 2005). "In the hood" (https://www.theguardian.com/g2/story/0,3604,1482816,00.html) . The Guardian . London. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220418055028/https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2005/may/13/fashion.fashionandstyle) from the original on 18 April 2022 . Retrieved 14 December 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Dan Hancox: "Observations on style" (http://www.newstatesman.com/200510310009) ( Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110607012735/http://www.newstatesman.com/200510310009) 7 June 2011 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ). New Statesman (/wiki/New_Statesman) , 31 October 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-22) "School adopts 'hoodie' as uniform" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/devon/4562737.stm) . BBC News. 19 May 2005. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090111164932/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/devon/4562737.stm) from the original on 11 January 2009 . Retrieved 18 March 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Shop regrets 'hoodie' humiliation" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/wiltshire/4735154.stm) . BBC News. 21 February 2006. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090214032121/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/wiltshire/4735154.stm) from the original on 14 February 2009 . Retrieved 22 February 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Cameron 'hoodie' speech in full" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/politics/5166498.stm) . BBC News. 10 July 2006. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181106131043/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/politics/5166498.stm) from the original on 6 November 2018 . Retrieved 16 March 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Cameron defends 'hoodie' speech" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk_politics/5163798.stm) . BBC News. 10 July 2006. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090107010358/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk_politics/5163798.stm) from the original on 7 January 2009 . 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Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191205185805/https://people.com/style/burberry-apologizes-model-wears-hoodie-noose-neck-runway/) from the original on 5 December 2019 . Retrieved 5 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Wade, Prudence (5 March 2020). "Unravelling the tangled history of the hoodie" (https://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/life/fashion-beauty/unravelling-the-tangled-history-of-the-hoodie-39015260.html) . Belfast Telegraph (/wiki/Belfast_Telegraph) . Retrieved 28 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Hoodies Hailed As Defining Fashion Trend (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/01/28/hoodies-hailed-as-definin_n_440535.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161018210246/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/01/28/hoodies-hailed-as-definin_n_440535.html) 18 October 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) The Huffington Post (/wiki/The_Huffington_Post) (28 January 2010). Retrieved on 12-28-10. ^ (#cite_ref-31) A blazer with a hoodie? 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Type of evening gown Ball gown, 1864 Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A ball gown , ballgown or gown is a type of evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) worn to a ball or a formal event. Most versions are cut off the shoulder with a low décolletage (/wiki/D%C3%A9colletage) , exposed arms, and long bouffant (/wiki/Bouffant) styled skirts. [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) Such gowns are typically worn with opera-length white gloves (/wiki/Evening_glove) , vintage jewelry or couture, and a stole (/wiki/Shawl#Stole) (a formal shawl in expensive fabric), cape (/wiki/Cape) , or cloak (/wiki/Cloak) in lieu of a coat. Where " state decorations (/wiki/State_decoration) " are to be worn, they are on a bow pinned to the chest, and married women wear a tiara (/wiki/Tiara) if they have one. Although synthetic fabrics are now sometimes used, the most common fabrics are satin (/wiki/Satin) , silk (/wiki/Silk) , taffeta (/wiki/Taffeta) and velvet (/wiki/Velvet) with trimmings of lace (/wiki/Lace) , pearls (/wiki/Pearls) , sequins (/wiki/Sequins) , embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) , ruffles (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) , ribbons, rosettes (/wiki/Rosette_(design)) and ruching (/wiki/Ruching) . [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) History [ edit ] 1850s [ edit ] In previous years, the same type of dress might have been called an evening dress, having very similar features; low-cut neckline, a tight bodice, a large skirt and (sometimes) bare arms. [2] (#cite_note-2) The ball gown at this time had similar features, a full skirt supported by a petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) , a tight waist achieved by a corset (/wiki/Corset) or bodice (/wiki/Bodice) with a stay to keep the subject upright and with perfect posture, off the shoulder style and with bare arms. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) In the coming years, the introduction of the sewing machine changed the dress market. Middle-class people could now produce their own dresses and with more quality and efficiency than before when they were made by hand. Upper class members of society might still have had their dresses made by a designer but with the turn around time decreased. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) Around this time was also the introduction of chemical dyes. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) This dramatically changed the range of colors that dresses could be produced in. This time was encompassed within the Romantic period, which coincided with the Victorian era. During this time the crinoline was introduced as well as demure sleeves, which puffed up around the arm. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) 1860–1864 [ edit ] Skirts had developed an overall bell shape but with extra fullness at the back. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) 1865–1867 [ edit ] Skirts lost their front shape and were altered to lay more flat against the body while the sides and back gained fullness with pleating techniques. Oftentimes a long train was attached to the back of the skirt. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) 1868–1878 [ edit ] For the next 10 years the fullness in the back of the skirts increased further with the use of the bustle (/wiki/Bustle) . [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) 1878–1884 [ edit ] The bustle went out of style because it was not needed anymore for the fullness in the back of the dress. The material instead was gathered and fell down the back which ended with a long train. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) 1890–1900 [ edit ] The hourglass shape emerged which was known for a narrow waist. It was achieved by having a cone-shaped skirt that was narrow at the waist and gained fullness near the bottom. [3] (#cite_note-:2-3) After the end of World War II, in 1947, Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) introduced his "New Look" of nipped-in waistlines and full skirts. 1950s [ edit ] Previously, ball gowns were worn for private events and parties, but in the mid-20th century, private events turned into public ones. As the century progressed, traditional events became less important while ones like charity events took their place. In 21st century culture, galas and red carpet events are showcases for extravagant gowns to be in the public eye. In Britain, when Elizabeth II (/wiki/Elizabeth_II) terminated formal court events in 1957, the more public events, like a charity ball, arose in popularity because they were open to anyone who could afford to buy a ticket. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) Designer dresses were typically part of a designer's collection, having them altered for the wearer. Designers need to know where a dress will be worn to avoid two people from matching. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) But if the original wearer decides to wear the dress to another event afterwards, the possibility of matching is increased. In modern times, designers must understand that their pieces of work will be criticized and also praised as a result of the internet and paparazzi. Gallery [ edit ] The gown on the far right is an accurate representation of one that would be worn in 1880. "Hourglass" shape of 1890 Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) ball gown and evening glove (/wiki/Evening_glove) , 1954, at the Indianapolis Museum of Art (/wiki/Indianapolis_Museum_of_Art) Eva Perón (/wiki/Eva_Per%C3%B3n) wearing a gown by Christian Dior, 1950 Two Jean Dessès (/wiki/Jean_Dess%C3%A8s) ball gowns, 1951 Culture [ edit ] The first forms of the 21st century term “ debutante ball (/wiki/Debutante_ball) ” or “ cotillion (/wiki/Cotillion) ” emerged in the mid 19th century with what was called a “coming out ball”. These events were meant to show off the women who were now of marriageable age. Traditionally the debutantes will wear all white, but with varying styles of dress. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) While the style of dress can vary, strapless and sleeveless variations are popular and are typically worn with white long gloves (/wiki/Long_gloves) and can be accessorized with bouquets, and sometimes a fan. For most of the 19th century, a headdress with veiling was a popular style as well as a full train attached at the waist and in later years it would attach to the shoulders. The traditional ideals of the debutante ball vary based on location in the United States. The debutantes in New Orleans (/wiki/New_Orleans) could be seen wearing jeweled crowns and dresses with Medici collars with elongated trains. Texas (/wiki/Texas) has variations within its various regions. In Laredo, middle class debutantes wear beaded suede garments. In San Antonio, the dresses are of elaborate colors and covered in beads of different designs. The beads add extensive weight having some dresses weigh in at about 75 lbs. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) Another coming of age event is the quinceañera (/wiki/Quincea%C3%B1era) , an event in Latin American cultures when a girl turns 15. Their gowns are often very brightly colored and resemble traditional ball gowns with very full ruffled (/wiki/Ruffle_(sewing)) or ruched skirts. [5] (#cite_note-:3-5) Quinceanera photo from Santa Fe, New Mexico First Ladies Collection [ edit ] In 1912, Helen Taft (/wiki/Helen_Taft) along with collection founders Cassie Mason Myers Julian-James, Rose Gouverneur Hoes, and the Smithsonian Institution started the “First Ladies Collection.” It is customary for the first lady of the United States to donate the dress she wears to the inauguration ball but it is not required. Every first lady is represented in the collection although they are not all inaugural dresses. [6] (#cite_note-:4-6) Taft started this tradition when she donated her dress that she wore during her husband's inauguration. Typically the dresses were added to the collection after the president in question had left office but in 1955 the public uproar to see Mamie Eisenhower (/wiki/Mamie_Eisenhower) 's inaugural dress was so strong that the Smithsonian changed their policy and added her dress immediately, not waiting until her husband left office. [6] (#cite_note-:4-6) Helen Taft's ball gown Mamie Eisenhower (/wiki/Mamie_Eisenhower) 's ball gown See also [ edit ] Ball (dance) (/wiki/Ball_(dance)) Ballerina skirt (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Clothing terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Dress codes (/wiki/Dress_codes) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Hegland, Jane; Steele, Valerie (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion . Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 45–47. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Hegland, Jane (2010). Evening Dress . Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 265–267. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Schwartz, Jessica (2016). Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head . ABC-CLIO. ^ Jump up to: a b "Ballgowns: About the Exhibition" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/ballgowns/ballgowns-british-glamour-since-1950/) . Victoria and Albert Museum . 26 November 2012 . Retrieved 1 November 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Haynes, Michaele (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion . Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 204–206. ^ Jump up to: a b "- The Tradition of the Gowns" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170308221145/http://americanhistory.si.edu/first-ladies/tradition-of-the-gowns) . National Museum of American History . 4 April 2012. Archived from the original (http://americanhistory.si.edu/first-ladies/tradition-of-the-gowns) on 2017-03-08 . Retrieved 2017-11-16 . Further reading [ edit ] Wallace, Carol McD.; et al. (1986). Dance: a very social history . New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780870994869 . 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Ballet garment Skirt designed by Barbara Karinska for the New York City Ballet's production of "Western Symphony". A ballerina skirt , also referred to as a Juliet skirt or a romance skirt , is a full skirt that is worn by ballet dancers (/wiki/Ballet_dancer) and is composed of multiple layers of fabric. Ballet dancers wear the longer version of the skirt, while for fashion purposes the skirt is worn shorter, like a mini skirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) for better dancing, the cocktail version. The standard ballerina attire is composed of fabric with a wire, in order for tulle to be visualized as stiff when it is around their waists. The Juliet styled skirt is free-flowing and covers the majority of their legs to place a high emphasis on the performer's legs. [1] (#cite_note-:03-1) The ballerina skirt is typically made up of five to twelve layers of tulle fabric. A ballerina skirt is portrayed as feminine and elegant, as well as being associated with the traditional attire for classical ballet performances. There are several different types of the ballerina skirts are used when performing. Those include: romantic, classic, pancake, balanchine and platter skirts. Scene from Les Sylphides (/wiki/Les_Sylphides) History [ edit ] From early 1550s, Roman dress had a strong influence on costume design: silk skirts were voluminous, and key details were often exaggerated, which was usually based on everyday wear. During the seventeenth century, silks, satins, and other fabrics were embroidered with real gold and precious stones. While this increased the level of decoration with ballet costumes, the heavy garments and supporting structures did not allow the dancers to perform graceful gestures and ultimately weighed them down. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) During the early 1700s the panier , a hooped petticoat, was just invented that help raised the skirts a few inches off the ground. When the Romantic movement came about, ballet costumes were emphasized more to be tight-fitting. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) The romantic tutu came about in Paris in 1832 when Marie Taglioni (/wiki/Marie_Taglioni) premiered in the skirt in the ballet performance La Sylphide . [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The skirt is a bell-shaped calf-length style; it falls halfway between the knees and ankles and it was composed of layers of stiffened tarlatan or starched, sheer cotton muslin that gave the illusion of fullness without being heavy. By 1870 other ballerinas began wearing tutus cut above the knee allowing to show complex footwork and to give visual of the ruffled underpants attached to the skirt. [4] (#cite_note-:2-4) Ballet skirts began to get shorter during the 20th century. Some ballet skirts had tarlatan layers which help create a flared-from-the-body effect. In the 1940s wire, hoops were inserted to enable the skirt to stand out from the hips. Tulle soon replaced tarlatan making the hoop an option rather than being a necessity. [4] (#cite_note-:2-4) The most common style today is the short skirt which appeared in the late nineteenth century and it is made of different fabrics and materials which range from fluffy to thin fabrics. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) This skirt gained popularity in the fashion world in the 1950s. Women began to dress extremely feminine and focused on the decor and accessories that they could add to their attire, as well as the appearance of a narrow waistline. Throughout this time period, women were seen wearing these tight bodices and flowy skirts to emphasize the narrow waist look [1] (#cite_note-:03-1) Serena Williams wearing a ballet skirt at a tennis match. Celebrities and actresses played a huge role in the popularity of the ballerina skirt. Marilyn Monroe (/wiki/Marilyn_Monroe) was seen wearing ballerina skirts in her “Ballerina” series of photographs, this is what brought the skirts from performance attire to everyday wear during the 1950s. [5] (#cite_note-5) In the show Sex in the City actress Sarah Jessica Parker (/wiki/Sarah_Jessica_Parker) is seen in the opening credits wearing a tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) and ends up showing the symbolism of the character, yet it also inspired the world to try out the look. [6] (#cite_note-6) Fashion designers, such as Lacroix and Valentino have more recently been looking toward ballet for inspiration. As well as Serena Williams (/wiki/Serena_Williams) being a world representative during her tennis matches for the ballet skirt. [7] (#cite_note-7) Production process [ edit ] Ballerina skirts have been seen as a direct symbol of ballet performers, but they are widely known as an art form. One of the most known costume designers, Barbara Karinska (/wiki/Barbara_Karinska) was known for her tutu-producing skills, she even named herself the "tutu-mechanic". [8] (#cite_note-:12-8) The production begins with the steps of creating a panty on the inside layer and then building from that. The next part that is developed is the basque portion, known as the waist (/wiki/Waist) portion. This is composed of heavy fabrics that are cut and designed to fit dancers, who are being tailored (/wiki/Tailor) to fit exactly into that specific skirt. The panels are then stitched together; this section determines the fullness of the skirt and helps with the durably of the skirt. All skirts can be cut differently depending on the style of the performance and the look that is being desired. The last step is to attach the bodice to the skirt. [8] (#cite_note-:12-8) Types of ballerina skirt [ edit ] Ballerinas can often be seen in several types of ballerina skirts. The Romantic tutu was first made famous through Marie Taglioni (/wiki/Marie_Taglioni) , since she was wearing such a flowing skirt, her pointe shoes (/wiki/Pointe_shoe) were easily recognized. The Romantic tutu is a large bell-shaped skirt composed of soft material. It covers the majority of the dancer's legs, down to the ankle. The Classical tutu has several variations, but the main reason it was created was so that the dancers could be freer and it would not be so constrictive of their dancing. [9] (#cite_note-9) Bell-styled tutus are known for their bell-like shape; they are made to be short and stiff with several layers of netting to help with framing the flow-like appearance of the skirt. [10] (#cite_note-10) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "What is a Ballerina Skirt?" (http://www.wise-geek.com/what-is-a-ballerina-skirt.htm) . www.wise-geek.com . Retrieved 2022-03-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hecht, Thomas. "Ballet Costume". Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion . 1 : 114–116 – via Gale ebooks. ^ Jump up to: a b Wulff, Helena. "Costume for Dance". Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: West Europe : 498–502. ^ Jump up to: a b Looseleaf, Victoria (October 2007). "The Story of the Tutu" (https://www.dancemagazine.com/the-story-of-the-tutu-2306873745.html) . Dance Magazine . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Ballet, The Australian. "Tutus in Hollywood | The Australian Ballet" (https://australianballet.com.au/behind-ballet/tutus-in-hollywood) . australianballet.com.au . Retrieved 2022-03-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "THE STORY OF: The Tutu In The Opening Credits Of Sex And The City" (https://29secrets.com/style/the-story-of-the-tutu-in-the-opening-credits-of-sex-and-the-city/) . 29Secrets . 2020-08-17 . Retrieved 2022-03-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "The complete history of the tutu" (https://www.thenationalnews.com/lifestyle/fashion/the-complete-history-of-the-tutu-1.768301) . The National . 2018-09-10 . Retrieved 2022-03-08 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Inside Look: The Making of a Tutu" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220706213614/https://www.bostonballet.org/Home/BehindTheScenes/social-media-making-of-the-sunset-tutu.aspx) . Boston Ballet . Archived from the original (https://www.bostonballet.org/Home/BehindTheScenes/social-media-making-of-the-sunset-tutu.aspx) on Jul 6, 2022 . Retrieved March 8, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Why Do Ballerinas Wear Tutus?" (https://www.childrensmuseum.org/blog/why-do-ballerinas-wear-tutus) . www.childrensmuseum.org . Retrieved 2022-03-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Ballet 101: Types of Tutus" (https://blog.balletaz.org/ballet-101-types-of-tutus/) . Ballet Arizona Blog . 2022-03-03 . Retrieved 2022-03-08 . 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Caps worn by men while smoking A nineteenth-century smoking cap Giuseppe Garibaldi (/wiki/Giuseppe_Garibaldi) with his characteristic smoking cap Smoking caps , also known as lounging caps , were Victorian headwear worn by men while smoking (/wiki/Tobacco_smoking) to stop their hair from smelling of tobacco smoke (/wiki/Smoke) . They were soft caps, shaped like a squat cylinder or close fitting like a knit cap (/wiki/Knit_cap) , and usually heavily embroidered (/wiki/Embroidered) with a tassel (/wiki/Tassel) on top. They were originally worn for warmth, but continued with their new use after improvements in Victorian heating. They were popular in the period 1840–1880, and usually used by gentlemen (/wiki/Gentlemen) in the privacy of their homes. [1] (#cite_note-Haug-1) The need for smoking caps, and smoking wear generally, arose from the social more (/wiki/Social_more) of not smoking in front of women, and not smelling of smoke when one returned to their presence. [2] (#cite_note-Gordon-2) They were often a gift from women, who made them themselves to give to male partners. [1] (#cite_note-Haug-1) They were often worn with a smoking jacket (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) , but while the jacket was more or less de rigueur , the cap was optional. Neither was worn by everyone, as smoking was not as popular as it became in the twentieth century, [3] (#cite_note-3) although they could also be worn as part of a man's loungewear (/wiki/Loungewear) outfit with no connection to smoking. The decoration of the cap was often very ornate and colourful. Designs were particularly influenced by the designs of the Near (/wiki/Near_East) and Middle East (/wiki/Middle_East) , a common Victorian influence in many other areas. [2] (#cite_note-Gordon-2) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Chalice (pipe) (/wiki/Chalice_(pipe)) Hookah (/wiki/Hookah) List of headgear (/wiki/List_of_headgear) Tobacco pipe (/wiki/Tobacco_pipe) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Haug, Joanne. "Victorian Smoking Cap" (http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/mens-smokingcap.htm) . Victoriana Magazine . Retrieved 9 June 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Jennifer F. Gordon, "Smoking caps", pp. 234–235 in, José Blanco F. (series ed), Mary D. Doering (volume ed), Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe , vol. 1, ABC-CLIO, 2015 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1610693108 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1610693108) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Christopher Hibbert, The Horizon Book of Daily Life in Victorian England , p. 14, American Heritage Publishing Company, 1975 ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0070286574 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0070286574) . 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Cornette (/wiki/Cornette) Dastar (/wiki/Dastar) Do-rag (/wiki/Do-rag) Dumalla (/wiki/Dumalla) Emamah (/wiki/Hejazi_turban) Għonnella (/wiki/G%C4%A7onnella) Gook (/wiki/Gook_(headgear)) Gugel (/wiki/Gugel) Gulle (/wiki/Gulle) Haredi burqa sect (/wiki/Haredi_burqa_sect) Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) Hogeon (/wiki/Hogeon) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Jang-ot (/wiki/Jang-ot) Khăn vấn (/wiki/Kh%C4%83n_v%E1%BA%A5n) Litham (/wiki/Litham) Mysore peta (/wiki/Mysore_peta) Niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Pagri (/wiki/Pagri_(turban)) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) Pheta (/wiki/Pheta) Puneri Pagadi (/wiki/Puneri_Pagadi) Roach (/wiki/Roach_(headdress)) Snood (/wiki/Snood_(headgear)) Sudra (/wiki/Sudra_(headdress)) Tichel (/wiki/Tichel) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Yashmak (/wiki/Yashmak) Hat parts Agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Aigrette (/wiki/Aigrette) Brim (/wiki/Hat_brim) Bumper brim (/wiki/Bumper_brim) Campaign cord (/wiki/Campaign_cord) Cointoise (/wiki/Cointoise) Gamsbart (/wiki/Gamsbart) Hackle (/wiki/Hackle) Lappet (/wiki/Lappet) Plume (/wiki/Plume_(feather)) Sarpech (/wiki/Sarpech) Visor (/wiki/Visor) Accessories Cockade (/wiki/Cockade) Feathers (/wiki/Feather) Hat box (/wiki/Hat_box) Hatpin (/wiki/Hatpin) v t e Historical clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings Body-length (/wiki/Suit) Abolla (/wiki/Abolla) Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)) Court dress (Empire of Japan) (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_Empire_of_Japan) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) Paenula (/wiki/Paenula) Peplos (/wiki/Peplos) Stola (/wiki/Stola) Toga (/wiki/Toga) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Peascod belly (/wiki/Peascod_belly) Poet shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Culottes (/wiki/Culottes) Harem (/wiki/Harem_pants) Knickerbockers (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Saragüells (/w/index.php?title=Sarag%C3%BCells&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ca (https://ca.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarag%C3%BCells) ] Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) Hobble (/wiki/Hobble_skirt) Poodle (/wiki/Poodle_skirt) Safeguard (/wiki/Safeguard_(costume)) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) Bliaut (/wiki/Bliaut) Close-bodied gown (/wiki/Close-bodied_gown) Debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Gown (/wiki/Gown) Kirtle (/wiki/Kirtle) Mantua (/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)) Polonaise (/wiki/Polonaise_(clothing)) Robe de cour (/wiki/Robe_de_cour) Sack-back gown (/wiki/Sack-back_gown) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_dress) Tea gown (/wiki/Tea_gown) Zaju chuishao fu (/wiki/Zaju_chuishao_fu) Outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) Car coat (/wiki/Car_coat) Caraco (/wiki/Caraco) Cardinal cloak (/wiki/Cardinal_cloak) Chamail (/wiki/Chamail_(clothing)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) Kinsale cloak (/wiki/Kinsale_cloak) Dolman (/wiki/Dolman) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Exomis (/wiki/Exomis) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Houppelande (/wiki/Houppelande) Inverness cape (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin) Kandys (/wiki/Kandys) Mackinaw jacket (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Nadiri (/wiki/Nadiri) Norfolk jacket (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) Overfrock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Pañuelo (/wiki/Pa%C3%B1uelo) Palla (/wiki/Palla_(garment)) Pallium (/wiki/Pallium_(Roman_cloak)) Pelisse (/wiki/Pelisse) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Galway shawl (/wiki/Galway_shawl) Kullu (/wiki/Kullu_shawl) Smock-frock (/wiki/Smock-frock) Spencer (/wiki/Spencer_(clothing)) Surcoat (/wiki/Surcoat) Surtout (/wiki/Surtout) Ulster coat (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Visite (/wiki/Visite) Witzchoura (/wiki/Witzchoura) Underwear (/wiki/Undergarment) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle) Chausses (/wiki/Chausses) Chemise (/wiki/Chemise) Codpiece (/wiki/Codpiece) Corselet (/wiki/Corselet) Corset (/wiki/Corset) Waist cincher (/wiki/Waist_cincher) Dickey (/wiki/Dickey_(garment)) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Hoop skirt (/wiki/Hoop_skirt) Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) Pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) Hose (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) Open drawers (/wiki/Open_drawers) Pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) Petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) Peignoir (/wiki/Peignoir) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Union suit (/wiki/Union_suit) Yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Anthony Eden (/wiki/Anthony_Eden_hat) Apex (/wiki/Apex_(headdress)) Arakhchin (/wiki/Arakhchin) Attifet (/wiki/Attifet) Aviator (/wiki/Aviator_hat) Ba tầm (/wiki/Ba_t%E1%BA%A7m) Bergère (/wiki/Berg%C3%A8re_hat) Blessed hat (/wiki/Blessed_sword_and_hat) Bonnet (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)) Capotain (/wiki/Capotain) Caubeen (/wiki/Caubeen) Cavalier (/wiki/Cavalier_hat) Coif (/wiki/Coif) Coonskin (/wiki/Coonskin_cap) Cornette (/wiki/Cornette) Dunce (/wiki/Dunce_cap) Fillet (/wiki/Fillet_(clothing)) French hood (/wiki/French_hood) Fontange (/wiki/Fontange) Futou (/wiki/Futou) Gable hood (/wiki/Gable_hood) Hennin (/wiki/Hennin) Jeongjagwan (/wiki/Jeongjagwan) Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_hat) Kausia (/wiki/Kausia) Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) Llawt'u (/wiki/Llawt%27u) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Matron's badge (/wiki/Matron%27s_badge) Miner's (/wiki/Miner%27s_cap) Mob (/wiki/Mobcap) Modius (/wiki/Modius_(headdress)) Monmouth (/wiki/Monmouth_cap) Mooskappe (/wiki/Mooskappe) Motoring hood (/wiki/Motoring_hood) Mounteere (/wiki/Mounteere_Cap) Nemes (/wiki/Nemes) Nightcap (/wiki/Nightcap_(garment)) Ochipok (/wiki/Ochipok) Pahlavi (/wiki/Pahlavi_hat) Petasos (/wiki/Petasos) Phrygian (/wiki/Phrygian_cap) Pileus (/wiki/Pileus_(hat)) Printer's (/wiki/Printer%27s_hat) Pudding (/wiki/Baby_bumper_headguard_cap) Qeleshe (/wiki/Qeleshe) Qing (/wiki/Qing_official_headwear) Salakot (/wiki/Salakot) Snood (/wiki/Snood_(headgear)) Smoking Tainia (/wiki/Tainia_(costume)) Taranga (/wiki/Taranga_(clothing)) Welsh Wig (/wiki/Welsh_Wig) Wimple (/wiki/Wimple) Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) Buskins (/wiki/Buskin) Calcei (/wiki/Calcei) Caligae (/wiki/Caligae) Carbatina (/wiki/Carbatina) Chinese styles (/wiki/Hanfu_footwear) Chopines (/wiki/Chopine) Duckbills (/wiki/Duckbill_shoe) Episcopal sandals (/wiki/Episcopal_sandals) Hessian (/wiki/Hessian_(boot)) Lotus shoes (/wiki/Lotus_shoes) Manchu platform shoes (/wiki/Manchu_platform_shoes) Pampooties (/wiki/Pampootie) Pattens (/wiki/Patten_(shoe)) Pigaches (/wiki/Pigache) Poulaines (/wiki/Poulaine) Socci (/wiki/Socci) Tiger-head shoes (/wiki/Tiger-head_shoes) Turnshoes (/wiki/Turnshoe) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Ascot tie (/wiki/Ascot_tie) Belt hook (/wiki/Belt_hook) Cointoise (/wiki/Cointoise) Cravat (early) (/wiki/Cravat_(early)) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin) Hatpin (/wiki/Hatpin) Jabot (/wiki/Jabot_(neckwear)) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Muff (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) Oes (/wiki/Oes) Partlet (/wiki/Partlet) Perfumed gloves (/wiki/Perfumed_gloves) Ruff (/wiki/Ruff_(clothing)) Shoe buckle (/wiki/Shoe_buckle) Visard (/wiki/Visard) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) cache-cœur (/wiki/Cache-c%C5%93ur) crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) halterneck (/wiki/Halterneck) tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) Cycling (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) Shirt (/wiki/Shirt) dress (/wiki/Dress_shirt) Henley (/wiki/Henley_shirt) polo (/wiki/Polo_shirt) sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) T (/wiki/T-shirt) Sweater (/wiki/Sweater) cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns (/wiki/Gown) Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) ferraiolo (/wiki/Ferraiolo) Inverness (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) monastic (/wiki/Mantle_(monastic_vesture)) royal (/wiki/Mantle_(royal_garment)) mozzetta (/wiki/Mozzetta) pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Cut-off (/wiki/Cut-off) Gilet (/wiki/Gilet) Jacket (/wiki/Jacket) down (/wiki/Down_jacket) flight (/wiki/Flight_jacket) goggle (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Harrington (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) leather (/wiki/Leather_jacket) mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) safari (/wiki/Safari_jacket) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) Lab coat (/wiki/White_coat) Parka (/wiki/Parka) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Robe (/wiki/Robe) bathrobe (/wiki/Bathrobe) dressing gown (/wiki/Dressing_gown) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Ski suit (/wiki/Ski_suit) Sleeved blanket (/wiki/Sleeved_blanket) Windbreaker (/wiki/Windbreaker) Nightwear (/wiki/Nightwear) Babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) Babygrow (/wiki/Babygrow) Blanket sleeper (/wiki/Blanket_sleeper) Negligee (/wiki/Negligee) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) Nightshirt (/wiki/Nightshirt) Pajamas (/wiki/Pajamas) Swimwear (/wiki/Swimsuit) Bikini (/wiki/Bikini) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Boardshorts (/wiki/Boardshorts) Dry suit (/wiki/Dry_suit) Monokini (/wiki/Monokini) One-piece (/wiki/One-piece_swimsuit) Rash guard (/wiki/Rash_guard) Sling (/wiki/Sling_swimsuit) Square leg suit (/wiki/Square_leg_suit) Swim briefs (/wiki/Swim_briefs) Swim diaper (/wiki/Swim_diaper) Trunks (/wiki/Trunks_(clothing)) Wetsuit (/wiki/Wetsuit) Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) Boot (/wiki/Boot) Court shoe (/wiki/Court_shoe) Dress boot (/wiki/Dress_boot) Dress shoe (/wiki/Dress_shoe) Flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) Sandal (/wiki/Sandal) Shoe (/wiki/Shoe) Slipper (/wiki/Slipper) Sneaker (/wiki/Sneaker) Legwear (/wiki/Hosiery) Sock (/wiki/Sock) Hold-ups (/wiki/Hold-ups) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) Stocking (/wiki/Stocking) Tights (/wiki/Tights) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) Boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) Coin purse (/wiki/Coin_purse) Cufflink (/wiki/Cufflink) Cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) Gaiters (/wiki/Gaiters) Glasses (/wiki/Glasses) Gloves (/wiki/Glove) Headband (/wiki/Headband) Handbag (/wiki/Handbag) Jewellery (/wiki/Jewellery) Livery (/wiki/Livery) Muff (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) Pocket protector (/wiki/Pocket_protector) Pocket watch (/wiki/Pocket_watch) Sash (/wiki/Sash) Spats (/wiki/Spats_(footwear)) Sunglasses (/wiki/Sunglasses) Suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) Umbrella (/wiki/Umbrella) Wallet (/wiki/Wallet) Watch (/wiki/Watch) Dress codes (/wiki/Dress_code) Western (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) white tie (/wiki/White_tie) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Related Clothing fetish (/wiki/Clothing_fetish) Clothing swap (/wiki/Clothing_swap) Costume (/wiki/Costume) creature suit (/wiki/Creature_suit) Halloween costume (/wiki/Halloween_costume) Cross-dressing (/wiki/Cross-dressing) Environmental impact (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) Fur clothing (/wiki/Fur_clothing) types (/wiki/List_of_types_of_fur) Fursuit (/wiki/Fursuit) Global trade of secondhand clothing (/wiki/Global_trade_of_secondhand_clothing) Laws (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) List of individual dresses (/wiki/List_of_individual_dresses) Reconstructed clothing (/wiki/Reconstructed_clothing) Right to clothing (/wiki/Right_to_clothing) Vintage clothing (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) v t e Tobacco smoking (/wiki/Tobacco_smoking) Country and region Africa Egypt (/wiki/Smoking_in_Egypt) Nigeria (/wiki/Smoking_in_Nigeria) South Africa (/wiki/Smoking_in_South_Africa) Asia Afghanistan (/wiki/Smoking_in_Afghanistan) China (/wiki/Smoking_in_China) East Timor (/wiki/Smoking_in_East_Timor) Hong Kong (/wiki/Smoking_in_Hong_Kong) India (/wiki/Tobacco_in_India) Indonesia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Indonesia) Iran (/wiki/Smoking_in_Iran) Iraq (/wiki/Smoking_in_Iraq) Japan (/wiki/Smoking_in_Japan) North Korea (/wiki/Smoking_in_North_Korea) South Korea (/wiki/Smoking_in_South_Korea) Macau (/wiki/Smoking_in_Macau) Malaysia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Malaysia) Pakistan (/wiki/Smoking_in_Pakistan) Philippines (/wiki/Smoking_in_the_Philippines) Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Saudi_Arabia) Singapore (/wiki/Smoking_in_Singapore) Syria (/wiki/Smoking_in_Syria) Taiwan (/wiki/Smoking_in_Taiwan) Turkey (/wiki/Smoking_in_Turkey) Vietnam (/wiki/Smoking_in_Vietnam) Oceania Australia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Australia) New Zealand (/wiki/Smoking_in_New_Zealand) Tokelau (/wiki/Smoking_in_Tokelau) Europe Albania (/wiki/Smoking_in_Albania) Armenia (/wiki/Tobacco_policy_in_Armenia) Croatia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Croatia) Finland (/wiki/Smoking_in_Finland) France (/wiki/Tobacco_in_France) Germany (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Germany) Greece (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Greece) Hungary (/wiki/Smoking_in_Hungary) Iceland (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Iceland) Ireland (/wiki/Smoking_in_Ireland) Italy (/wiki/Smoking_in_Italy) Latvia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Latvia) Norway (/wiki/Smoking_in_Norway) Russia (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Russia) Sweden (/wiki/Smoking_in_Sweden) Turkey (/wiki/Smoking_in_Turkey) United Kingdom (/wiki/Tobacco_in_the_United_Kingdom) South America Argentina (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Argentina) Brazil (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Brazil) Colombia (/wiki/Smoking_in_Colombia) Ecuador (/wiki/Smoking_in_Ecuador) Uruguay (/wiki/Smoking_in_Uruguay) North America Canada (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Canada) Cuba (/wiki/Tobacco_in_Cuba) United States (/wiki/Tobacco_in_the_United_States) Religion (/wiki/Religious_views_on_smoking) Smoking in Jewish law (/wiki/Smoking_in_Jewish_law) Islamic views on tobacco (/wiki/Islamic_views_on_tobacco) Tobacco fatwa (/wiki/Tobacco_fatwa) Ceremonial pipe (/wiki/Ceremonial_pipe) Chanunpa (/wiki/Chanunpa) Kinnikinnick (/wiki/Kinnikinnick) Pipe bag (/wiki/Pipe_bag) Health Health effects of tobacco (/wiki/Health_effects_of_tobacco) ( Nicotine poisoning (/wiki/Nicotine_poisoning) Nicotine withdrawal (/wiki/Nicotine_withdrawal) ) Passive smoking (/wiki/Passive_smoking) Third-hand smoke (/wiki/Third-hand_smoke) Prevalence of tobacco use (/wiki/Prevalence_of_tobacco_use) Schizophrenia and smoking (/wiki/Schizophrenia_and_tobacco_smoking) Sidestream smoke (/wiki/Sidestream_smoke) Smokeless tobacco keratosis (/wiki/Smokeless_tobacco_keratosis) Smoker's face (/wiki/Smoker%27s_face) Smoker's melanosis (/wiki/Smoker%27s_melanosis) Stomatitis nicotina (/wiki/Stomatitis_nicotina) Smoking age (/wiki/Smoking_age) Smoking and male infertility (/wiki/Smoking_and_male_infertility) Smoking cessation (/wiki/Smoking_cessation) Tobacco-free pharmacies (/wiki/Tobacco-free_pharmacies) Tobacco packaging warning messages 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Clothing for skiing Karl Schranz (/wiki/Karl_Schranz) (show) in a one-piece and Vladimir Putin (/wiki/Vladimir_Putin) in a two-piece ski suit An Austrian professional ski suit. Children wearing snowsuits. A ski suit is a suit made to be worn over the rest of the clothes when skiing (/wiki/Skiing) or snowboarding (/wiki/Snowboarding) . [1] (#cite_note-ski_suit_def-1) A ski suit made for more casual winter wear outdoors may also be called a snowsuit [1] (#cite_note-ski_suit_def-1) and are often used by children as everyday outerwear in the winter season. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Some suits are specifically made for snowboarders but most are used by either skiers or snowboarders regardless of the style. Design [ edit ] A ski suit can either be one-piece, in the form of a jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) , or two-piece, in the form of a ski jacket and matching trousers, called salopettes (/wiki/Salopettes) or ski pants. [4] (#cite_note-4) A ski suit is made from wind- and water-resistant or waterproof fabric, and has a non-removable liner made of nylon (/wiki/Nylon) , silk (/wiki/Silk) , cotton or taffeta (/wiki/Taffeta) . Its main function is to keep a person warm while participating in winter sports, especially Nordic (/wiki/Nordic_skiing) (cross-country) or Alpine (/wiki/Alpine_skiing) (down-hill) skiing. It is generally a unisex garment. A ski suit is meant to be worn with a base layer, which consists of long johns and a warm shirt, usually designed for skiing. Ski suits are often made of Gore-Tex (/wiki/Gore-Tex) or similar materials. They are often in the form of a shell suit, to which the skier adds more or less warm underwear depending on the weather. Pockets are usually made to be waterproof, so items put in them can stay dry. One-piece ski suits [ edit ] A one-piece ski suit is sometimes called a "freedom suit". It covers the whole torso, arms and legs. They usually have one or sometimes two zippers (/wiki/Zipper) down the front of the suit, sometimes additionally closed by a flap with velcro (/wiki/Velcro) or buttons, and often have a belt at the waist. Sometimes, the suit has built-in suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) on the inside for added support. One-piece ski suits are often just made as a shell layer (/wiki/Layered_clothing#Shell_layer) , with the skier adding warm underwear of own choice adapted to the current weather situation. Other suits may be padded for warmth, but when intended for skiing they are still not as insulated as a snowmobile suit (/wiki/Snowmobile_suit) . A new style of soft-shell ski suit has become popular in the 2000s. Considered a smarter and more stylish option, with more stretch, warmth and comfort than hardshell fabrics offer whilst maintaining a high level of water resistance, wind resistance and breathability, these new suits are insulated with a fleece backing, avoiding the bulk of down filled snow suits, but still allowing room for layering. They also tend to be more affordable than hardshell Gore-Tex suits. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) The first one-piece ski suit is said to have been designed by Italian Olympic skier and fashion designer Emilio Pucci (/wiki/Emilio_Pucci) in the late 1940s. [7] (#cite_note-7) Race suits [ edit ] Often referred to as race suits or speed suits, these are the suits worn by professional and junior racers at competitions to improve their speed. They are mostly made as one-piece suits. Made mostly of Polyurethane (85-90%) and Polyester (15-10%), these suits can reduce wind resistance by as much as fifty percent. Since wind resistance accounts for ninety five percent of the force stopping skiers from going faster, wearing one of these suits can potentially give you nearly double the speed. They are very tight and form hugging and can take a while to adapt to the body. Olympic athletes can reach over 160 km/h in a race suit, while even a junior racer may struggle to get past 80 km/h without one. [ citation needed ] Suit costs range from $210 for a beginners suit to $1,200 for the suits generally worn by Olympic athletes. Ski suits of this kind are not unisex garments due to the need to be skin tight and must be sized properly to be effective. Most athletes wear a base layer beneath their suit, but some may wear only the suit on race days, as the base layer will decrease the efficiency of the suit slightly. Two-piece ski suits [ edit ] Ski jacket [ edit ] A ski jacket covers the arms (/wiki/Arm) and torso (/wiki/Torso) , sometimes just to the waist while other times reaching down over the buttocks. It can be a separate item or part of a two-piece ski suit together with matching ski pants. From the introduction of ski jackets in the middle to late 1950s through the early 1980s, the dominant style was for a ski jacket to resemble a safari jacket (/wiki/Safari_jacket) in having a similar belt and shirt-like collar. A similar jacket, especially one with a hood, may also be called a parka (/wiki/Parka) , anorak (/wiki/Anorak) , down jacket (/wiki/Down_jacket) or winter shell (/wiki/Shell_suit) . Ski pants [ edit ] Ski pants, also called salopettes (/wiki/Salopettes) , when part of a two-piece ski suit, are usually made in the same fabric and color as the corresponding ski jacket. It is sometimes in the form of bib-and-brace (/wiki/Bib-and-brace) and the jacket is worn over it. Snowsuit events [ edit ] In North America, there are many charity networks providing less fortunate children with snowsuits for the winter. [8] (#cite_note-8) Ski suits and snow suits are a natural part of some sporting events. There are also some events which emphasize the use of the snowsuit as such. At the annual winter outdoor music festival Igloofest (/wiki/Igloofest) in Montreal in Canada, there is a contest for wearers of one-piece suits. [9] (#cite_note-9) See also [ edit ] Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Sportswear (activewear) (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Definitions.net: (http://www.definitions.net/definition/ski%20suit) ski suit , STANDS4 LLC, 2013. Accessed September 1, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Definition of (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/snowsuit) snowsuit at The Free Dictionary (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/snowsuit) . Accessed September 1, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Definition of (http://www.audioenglish.org/dictionary/snowsuit.htm) snowsuit at Audioenglish (http://www.audioenglish.org/dictionary/snowsuit.htm) . Accessed September 1, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Alibaba Group (/wiki/Alibaba_Group) Internet showrooms for ski suit (http://www.alibaba.com/products/F0/ski_suit.html) and for snowsuit (http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/snowsuit.html) ^ (#cite_ref-5) "REVIEW: Snowboarder's top gear! [Cool of the Wild]" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180109121849/https://www.red7skiwear.com/blogs/news/review-snowboarders-top-gear-cool-of-the-wild) . Archived from the original (https://www.red7skiwear.com/blogs/news/review-snowboarders-top-gear-cool-of-the-wild) on 2018-01-09. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Why One Piece Ski Suits are back in Style" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180109121842/https://www.red7skiwear.com/blogs/news/why-one-piece-ski-suits-are-back-in-style) . Archived from the original (https://www.red7skiwear.com/blogs/news/why-one-piece-ski-suits-are-back-in-style) on 2018-01-09. ^ (#cite_ref-7) The history of the one piece ski suit (http://snow-point.com/publ/one_piece_ski_suits/the_history_of_the_one_piece_ski_sui/2-1-0-2) ^ (#cite_ref-8) The Snowsuit Effort (http://snowsuit.net/info/) Archived (https://archive.today/20130901135533/http://snowsuit.net/info/) 2013-09-01 at archive.today (/wiki/Archive.today) in Detroit and The Snowsuit Fund (http://snowsuitfund.com/) in Ottawa are examples of this. ^ (#cite_ref-9) "One-piece" Contest Information and photo shoot (http://www.igloofest.ca/?en/#/contest-one-piece_en) External links [ edit ] v t e Skiing (/wiki/Skiing) and snowboarding (/wiki/Snowboarding) History of skiing (/wiki/History_of_skiing) Glossary of skiing and snowboarding terms (/wiki/Glossary_of_skiing_and_snowboarding_terms) Nordic skiing (/wiki/Nordic_skiing) Competitive Cross-country skiing (/wiki/Cross-country_skiing_(sport)) Paralympic (/wiki/Paralympic_cross-country_skiing) Ski jumping (/wiki/Ski_jumping) Ski flying (/wiki/Ski_flying) Nordic combined (/wiki/Nordic_combined) Endurance Ski marathon (/wiki/Ski_marathon) Ski orienteering (/wiki/Ski_orienteering) Ski touring (/wiki/Ski_touring) Recreational Cross-country skiing (/wiki/Cross-country_skiing) Backcountry skiing (/wiki/Backcountry_skiing) Roller skiing (/wiki/Roller_skiing) Skijoring (/wiki/Skijoring) Alpine skiing (/wiki/Alpine_skiing) Olympic disciplines Slalom (/wiki/Slalom_skiing) Giant slalom (/wiki/Giant_slalom) Super-G (/wiki/Super-G) Downhill (/wiki/Downhill_(ski_competition)) Combined (/wiki/Alpine_skiing_combined) Other disciplines Extreme skiing (/wiki/Extreme_skiing) Glade skiing (/wiki/Glade_skiing) Heliskiing (/wiki/Heliskiing) Para-alpine skiing (/wiki/Para-alpine_skiing) Speed skiing (/wiki/Speed_skiing) Other skiing Biathlon (/wiki/Biathlon) Indoor skiing (/wiki/Indoor_skiing) Night skiing 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Outlandishly fashionable man "Maccaroni" redirects here. For the type of pasta, see Macaroni (/wiki/Macaroni) . Self portrait of Richard Cosway (/wiki/Richard_Cosway) , a Georgian (/wiki/Georgian_era) -era portrait painter, who was known as the "Macaroni Artist" "The Macaroni. A real Character at the late Masquerade", mezzotint (/wiki/Mezzotint) by Philip Dawe (/wiki/Philip_Dawe) , 1773 A fop from "What is this my Son Tom?", 1774 A macaroni (formerly spelled maccaroni [1] (#cite_note-1) ) was a pejorative term used to describe a fashionable fellow of 18th-century Britain. Stereotypically, men in the macaroni subculture (/wiki/Subculture) dressed, spoke, and behaved in an unusually epicene (/wiki/Epicene) and androgynous (/wiki/Androgyny) manner. The term "macaroni" pejoratively referred to a man who "exceeded the ordinary bounds of fashion" [2] (#cite_note-Rauser2004-2) in terms of high-end clothing (/wiki/Haute_couture) , fastidious eating, and gambling (/wiki/Gambling_in_the_United_Kingdom) . He mixed Continental affectations with his British nature, like a practitioner of macaronic verse (/wiki/Macaronic_verse) (which mixed English and Latin to comic effect), laying himself open to satire. The macaronis became seen in stereotyped (/wiki/Stereotype) terms in Britain, being seen as a symbol of inappropriate bourgeois (/wiki/Bourgeois) excess, effeminacy (/wiki/Effeminacy) , and possible homosexuality (/wiki/Homosexuality) - which was then legally viewed as sodomy (/wiki/Sodomy) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Many modern critics view the macaroni as representing a general change in 18th-century British society such as political change, class consciousness (/wiki/Class_consciousness) , new nationalisms (/wiki/Nationalism) , commodification (/wiki/Commodification) , and consumer capitalism (/wiki/Consumer_capitalism) . [4] (#cite_note-MurphyODriscoll,p267-4) The macaroni was the Georgian era (/wiki/Georgian_era) precursor to the dandy (/wiki/Dandy) of the Regency (/wiki/Regency_era) and Victorian eras (/wiki/Victorian_era) . Origins and etymology [ edit ] In the 18th century, wealthy young British men traditionally took a trip around Europe upon their coming of age (/wiki/Coming_of_age) , known as his Grand Tour (/wiki/Grand_Tour) . Italy was a key destination of these tours. During their trip, many developed a taste for maccaroni (/wiki/Macaroni) , a type of pasta (/wiki/Pasta) little known in Britain then, and so they were said to belong to the Macaroni Club, [5] (#cite_note-oed-5) founded in 1764 by those returning from the Grand Tour. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) They would refer to anything that was fashionable or à la mode as "very maccaroni". [7] (#cite_note-7) The Italian term maccherone , when figuratively meaning "blockhead, fool", was apparently not related to this British usage, though both were derived from the name of the pasta shape. [5] (#cite_note-oed-5) Author Horace Walpole (/wiki/Horace_Walpole) wrote to a friend in 1764 of "the Macaroni Club [ Almack's (/wiki/Almack%27s) ], which is composed of all the travelled young men who wear long curls and spying-glasses". [8] (#cite_note-8) The expression was particularly used to characterize " fops (/wiki/Fop) " who dressed in high fashion with tall, powdered wigs (/wiki/Wig_(hair)) with a chapeau-bras (/wiki/Bicorne) on top that could only be removed on the point of a sword. The Macaroni suit , made up of a shorter, tighter fitting coat, colourful stockings, and shoes adorned with large buckles, and, fastened in a large bow, the Macaroni cravat , made from lace-edged muslin, were developed and worn in the 1770s. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) A prominently large nosegay of flowers was often worn (on the left side of the chest or shoulder of the coat), along with a very small tricorne style hat. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) The shop of engravers and printsellers Mary and Matthew Darly (/wiki/Mary_and_Matthew_Darly) in the fashionable West End of London (/wiki/West_End_of_London) sold their sets of satirical "macaroni" caricature prints, published between 1771 and 1773. The new Darly shop became known as "the Macaroni Print-Shop". [2] (#cite_note-Rauser2004-2) Design historian Peter McNeil links macaroni fashion to the crossdressing (/wiki/Crossdressing) of the earlier molly subculture (/wiki/Molly_house) , and says "some macaronis may have utilized aspects of high fashion in order to affect new class identities, but others may have asserted what we would now label a queer (/wiki/Queer) identity". [4] (#cite_note-MurphyODriscoll,p267-4) [a] (#cite_note-9) Examples of usage [ edit ] In 1773, James Boswell (/wiki/James_Boswell) was on tour in Scotland with the stout and serious-minded essayist and lexicographer (/wiki/Lexicography) Dr. Samuel Johnson (/wiki/Samuel_Johnson) , the least dandified [ citation needed ] of Londoners. Johnson was awkward in the saddle, and Boswell ribbed him: "You are a delicate Londoner; you are a maccaroni; you can't ride." [9] (#cite_note-10) There is indeed a kind of animal, neither male nor female, a thing of the neuter gender, lately [1770] started up among us. It is called a macaroni. It talks without meaning, it smiles without pleasantry, it eats without appetite, it rides without exercise, it wenches without passion. [10] (#cite_note-11) In Oliver Goldsmith (/wiki/Oliver_Goldsmith) 's She Stoops to Conquer (/wiki/She_Stoops_to_Conquer) (1773), a misunderstanding is discovered and young Marlow finds that he has been mistaken; he cries out, "So then, all's out, and I have been damnably imposed on. O, confound my stupid head, I shall be laughed at over the whole town. I shall be stuck up in caricatura in all the print-shops. The Dullissimo Maccaroni. To mistake this house of all others for an inn, and my father's old friend for an innkeeper!" The song " Yankee Doodle (/wiki/Yankee_Doodle) " from the time of the American Revolutionary War (/wiki/American_Revolutionary_War) mentions a man who "stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni." Dr. Richard Shuckburgh was a British surgeon and also the author of the song's lyrics; the joke which he was making was that the Yankees (/wiki/Yankee) were naive and unsophisticated enough to believe that a feather in the hat was a sufficient mark of a macaroni. Whether or not these were alternative lyrics sung in the British army, they were enthusiastically taken up by the Americans themselves. [11] (#cite_note-12) The prominently-crested macaroni penguin (/wiki/Macaroni_penguin) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Dandy (/wiki/Dandy) Metrosexual (/wiki/Metrosexual) Hipster (/wiki/Hipster_(contemporary_subculture)) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-9) This reading has not been universally accepted; Kevin Murphy and Sally O'Driscoll argue that this implied that both the wearer and the casual observer would have drawn the same interpretation from aspects of macaroni clothing. [4] (#cite_note-MurphyODriscoll,p267-4) ^ (#cite_ref-1) "maccaroni" (https://www.oed.com/search/dictionary/?q=maccaroni) . Oxford English Dictionary (/wiki/Oxford_English_Dictionary) (Online ed.). Oxford University Press (/wiki/Oxford_University_Press) . (Subscription or participating institution membership (https://www.oed.com/public/login/loggingin#withyourlibrary) required.) ^ Jump up to: a b Rauser, Amelia F. (11 October 2004). "Hair, Authenticity, and the Self-Made Macaroni". Eighteenth-Century Studies . 38 (1): 101–117. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1353/ecs.2004.0063 (https://doi.org/10.1353%2Fecs.2004.0063) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 30053630 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/30053630) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 162279247 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:162279247) . Project MUSE (/wiki/Project_Muse) 173943 (https://muse.jhu.edu/article/173943) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Hardy, Myronn (2012). Catastrophic Bliss . Rowman & Littlefield. p. 259. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-61148-494-6 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Murphy, Kevin; O'Driscoll, Sally (2013). Studies in Ephemera: Text and Image in Eighteenth-Century Print . Bucknell University Press. p. 267. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-61148-495-3 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Macaroni" (http://www.oed.com/view/Entry/111762) . Oxford English Dictionary . Retrieved 2011-01-18 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2017). The Dictionary of Fashion History (2nd ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 168. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4725-7770-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Rauser 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Knowles, James, ed. (2008) [1905]. The Nineteenth century and after . Vol. 58. Leonard Scott Pub. Co., 1905. p. 278 – via Princeton University (/wiki/Princeton_University) and the Internet Archive (/wiki/Internet_Archive) . ^ (#cite_ref-10) James Boswell, Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides , 1785, chapter 7 available on-line (http://www.gutenkarte.org/section/6018/7) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070311060500/http://www.gutenkarte.org/section/6018/7) 2007-03-11 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ; he liked it well enough to repeat it in his Life of Dr. Johnson. ^ (#cite_ref-11) The Oxford Magazine (/wiki/The_Oxford_Magazine) , 1770, quoted in Joseph Twadell Shipley, The Origins of English Words: A Discursive Dictionary of Indo-European Roots (JHU Press) 1984:143. ^ (#cite_ref-12) See Yankee Doodle variations and parodies (/wiki/Yankee_Doodle#Variations_and_parodies) . References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Macaroni (fashion) . Rictor Norton (/wiki/Rictor_Norton) , "The Macaroni Club: Homosexual Scandals in 1772" (http://rictornorton.co.uk/eighteen/macaroni.htm) in Homosexuality in Eighteenth-Century England: A Sourcebook The Lewis Walpole Library, Yale: "Preposterous Headdresses and Feathered Ladies: Hair, Wigs, Barbers, and Hairdressers" (http://www.library.yale.edu/walpole/programs/hair.html) Exhibition, 2003. [1] (http://publicdomainreview.org/2017/02/22/a-queer-taste-for-macaroni/) A Queer Taste for Macaroni NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐5nbh2 Cached time: 20240720171940 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.301 seconds Real time usage: 0.443 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1320/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 21607/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2110/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 37121/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.181/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5764024/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 393.988 1 -total 42.39% 167.008 2 Template:Reflist 24.93% 98.240 1 Template:Cite_OED 18.95% 74.665 1 Template:Short_description 13.34% 52.542 1 Template:Sisterlinks 10.43% 41.090 2 Template:Pagetype 9.39% 37.014 1 Template:Citation_needed 8.12% 32.001 1 Template:Fix 6.35% 25.006 1 Template:Redirect 5.95% 23.461 8 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1625954-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720171940 and revision id 1234714795. 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French pharmacist and entrepreneur, founder of L'Oréal (1881–1957) Eugène Schueller Born Eugène Paul Louis Schueller ( 1881-03-20 ) 20 March 1881 Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France Died 23 August 1957 (1957-08-23) (aged 76) Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France Alma mater Chimie ParisTech (/wiki/Chimie_ParisTech) Occupation(s) Chemist and entrepreneur Known for founding L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) Children Liliane Bettencourt (/wiki/Liliane_Bettencourt) Eugène Paul Louis Schueller (20 March 1881 – 23 August 1957) was a French chemist and entrepreneur who was the founder of L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) , the world's leading company in cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) and beauty. Founding of L'Oréal [ edit ] As a young French chemist of Alsatian (/wiki/Alsatians_(people)) paternal origin, Schueller graduated in 1904 from the Institut de Chimie Appliquée de Paris (now Chimie ParisTech (/wiki/Chimie_ParisTech) ) and became a laboratory assistant at La Sorbonne. A barber asked him to develop a new hair dye, but Schueller took this opportunity to lead his own research shop. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Schueller developed an innovative hair-color formula in 1907, which he called Oréale . He formulated and manufactured his own products, and sold them to Parisian hairdressers. In 1909, he registered his company, the Société Française de Teintures Inoffensives pour Cheveux (French Company of Inoffensive Hair Dyes), the future L'Oréal. In his production unit, he developed the concept of proportional salary. In 1936, the social reforms led by Léon Blum (/wiki/L%C3%A9on_Blum) in France suddenly created a vacation industry, and the sales of L'Oréal's sunscreen (Ambre Solaire) skyrocketed. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) Support for fascism [ edit ] During the early twentieth century, Schueller provided financial support and held meetings for La Cagoule (/wiki/La_Cagoule) at L'Oréal headquarters. La Cagoule was a violent French fascist (/wiki/Fascist) -leaning, antisemitic (/wiki/Anti-Semitism) and anti- communist (/wiki/Communist) group whose leader formed a political party Mouvement Social Révolutionnaire (/wiki/Mouvement_Social_R%C3%A9volutionnaire) (MSR, Social Revolutionary Movement) which in Occupied France (/wiki/German_military_administration_in_occupied_France_during_World_War_II) supported the Vichy (/wiki/Vichy_France) collaboration (/wiki/Collaboration_with_Nazi_Germany_and_Fascist_Italy) with the conquerors from Nazi Germany (/wiki/Nazi_Germany) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) In La révolution de l’économie (1941), he wrote: [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) I know full well that we don’t have the chance that the Nazis did, coming to power in 1933... We don’t have the gift that the Germans had…We don’t have the faith of national-socialism. We don’t have the dynamism of a Hitler pushing the world. L'Oréal hired several members of the group as executives after World War II, such as Jacques Corrèze (/wiki/Jacques_Corr%C3%A8ze) , who served as CEO (/wiki/CEO) of the US operation. This involvement was extensively researched by Michael Bar-Zohar (/wiki/Michael_Bar-Zohar) in his book, Bitter Scent . [3] (#cite_note-3) Family [ edit ] Schueller's daughter, Liliane Bettencourt (/wiki/Liliane_Bettencourt) , was the widow of André Bettencourt (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_Bettencourt) with whom she had one daughter, Françoise Bettencourt Meyers (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7oise_Bettencourt_Meyers) , chairwoman of L'Oréal's board of directors and according to Bloomberg Billionaires Index the richest woman in the world and the 12th richest person in the world, with a net worth of USD 94.9 Billion as of January 2022. Françoise Meyers is married to Jean-Pierre Meyers, whose rabbi grandfather was murdered in Auschwitz (/wiki/Auschwitz) , a Nazi concentration camp. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2017, Liliane Bettencourt was the wealthiest woman in the world, with holdings estimated at US$39.5 billion. [5] (#cite_note-5) Legacy [ edit ] The head office of L'Oréal in Clichy, Hauts-de-Seine (/wiki/Clichy,_Hauts-de-Seine) is named Centre Eugène Schueller . [6] (#cite_note-6) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d Sancton, Tom (7 September 2017). "The Titan Who Founded L'Oréal Prospered Under the Nazis" (https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/titan-who-founded-loreal-built-his-brand-shoulders-nazis-180964805/) . Smithsonian Magazine . Retrieved 2024-03-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Malcolm Gladwell (March 28, 2011). "The Color of Money" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120505045702/http://gladwell.com/2011/2011_03_28_a_color_of_money.html) . The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) . Archived from the original (http://www.gladwell.com/2011/2011_03_28_a_color_of_money.html) on May 5, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-3) Bar-Zohar, Michael (1996). Bitter Scent: The Case of L'Oréal, Nazis, and the Arab Boycott . Dutton. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-525-94068-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Liliane Bettencourt, L’Oréal Heiress Vexed by Swindling Case, Is Dead at 94 (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/21/world/europe/liliane-bettencourt-dead-loreal.html) September 21, 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Liliane Bettencourt & family (https://www.forbes.com/profile/liliane-bettencourt/?list=billionaires.) Accessed 2 March 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-6) " World Presence (http://www.loreal.com/_en/_ww/html/our-company/world-presence.aspx) ." L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) . Retrieved on 14 July 2010. "Centre Eugène Schueller 41, rue Martre 92117 CLICHY" External links [ edit ] France portal (/wiki/Portal:France) Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Official website of L'Oréal (http://www.loreal.com) Forbes article on L'Oréal (https://www.forbes.com/global/2000/1127/0324130a.html) Forbes article on Liliane Bettencourt (https://web.archive.org/web/20110603231831/http://www.forbes.com/2005/03/18/cz_sh_0318oreal_bill05.html) at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) (archived June 3, 2011) Book Review of Bitter Scent (http://www.js.emory.edu/BLUMENTHAL/Bar%20Zohar.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070505030938/http://www.js.emory.edu/BLUMENTHAL/Bar%20Zohar.html) 2007-05-05 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000121222612) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/17235435) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJqFTgkkc9VVhhwyTxMF8C) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb12019950v) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb12019950v) Catalonia (https://cantic.bnc.cat/registre/981058598273106706) Belgium (https://opac.kbr.be/LIBRARY/doc/AUTHORITY/21043994) 2 (https://opac.kbr.be/LIBRARY/doc/AUTHORITY/14106581) Netherlands (http://data.bibliotheken.nl/id/thes/p130321818) Poland (https://dbn.bn.org.pl/descriptor-details/9810609766005606) Portugal (http://id.bnportugal.gov.pt/aut/catbnp/121228) Other IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/028345150) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5b8f7f4b65‐q9j7d Cached time: 20240623094601 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.337 seconds Real time usage: 0.462 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2028/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 20617/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1951/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 15/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 21033/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.228/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6395828/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 428.671 1 -total 33.08% 141.825 1 Template:Infobox_person 21.88% 93.778 1 Template:Reflist 20.51% 87.919 1 Template:Authority_control 16.50% 70.713 1 Template:Cite_web 15.55% 66.656 1 Template:Short_description 13.13% 56.265 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 8.71% 37.336 1 Template:Birth_date 8.10% 34.723 2 Template:Pagetype 7.94% 34.057 17 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1659706-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623094601 and revision id 1214319197. 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American model and television personality (born 1955) Janice Dickinson Dickinson in 2014 Born ( 1955-02-16 ) February 16, 1955 (age 69) New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , U.S. Occupations Model television personality businesswoman Years active 1969–present Television America's Next Top Model (/wiki/America%27s_Next_Top_Model) The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency (/wiki/The_Janice_Dickinson_Modeling_Agency) Janice & Abbey (/wiki/Janice_%26_Abbey) Spouses Ron Levy ( m. 1977; div. 1979) Simon Fields ( m. 1987; div. 1993) Alan B. Gersten ( m. 1995; div. 1996) Rocky Gerner ( m. 2016) Children 2 Relatives Debbie Dickinson (/wiki/Debbie_Dickinson) (sister) Modeling information Height 5 ft 10 in (1.78 m) [1] (#cite_note-FMD-1) Hair color Dark brown [1] (#cite_note-FMD-1) Eye color Brown [1] (#cite_note-FMD-1) Janice Doreen Dickinson (born February 16, 1955) [2] (#cite_note-dickinson-gives-birthdate-2) is an American model, television personality, and businesswoman. Initially notable as a model, Dickinson has been disputably described by herself as the first supermodel (/wiki/Supermodel) . ( Lisa Fonssagrives (/wiki/Lisa_Fonssagrives) is widely considered to have been the world's first supermodel, with a career that began in the 1930s.) [3] (#cite_note-transcripts.cnn.com-3) One of the most successful models of the 1970s and 1980s, she also served as a judge on four cycles of the reality series America's Next Top Model (/wiki/America%27s_Next_Top_Model) (2003–2006). Dickinson opened a modeling agency (/wiki/Modeling_agency) in 2005 which was documented on the reality series The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency (/wiki/The_Janice_Dickinson_Modeling_Agency) (2006–2008). In 2007, Dickinson was a contestant on the seventh series (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity...Get_Me_Out_of_Here!_(British_series_7)) of the British television show I'm a Celebrity...Get Me Out of Here! which she finished as runner-up. In 2008, she starred on the reality series Janice & Abbey (/wiki/Janice_%26_Abbey) , alongside British model Abbey Clancy (/wiki/Abbey_Clancy) . In 2010, Dickinson appeared on the fourth series (/wiki/List_of_Celebrity_Rehab_with_Dr._Drew_episodes#Season_4) of Celebrity Rehab with Dr. Drew (/wiki/Celebrity_Rehab_with_Dr._Drew) , and in 2015, she appeared on Celebrity Big Brother 16 . Dickinson has released three autobiographical books: No Lifeguard on Duty (/wiki/No_Lifeguard_on_Duty) (2002), Everything About Me Is Fake… And I'm Perfect (2004), and Check Please! Dating, Mating, and Extricating (2006). Early life [ edit ] Dickinson was born in Brooklyn, New York (/wiki/Brooklyn,_New_York) , [4] (#cite_note-nndb-4) the second daughter to Jennie Marie ( née (/wiki/N%C3%A9e) Pietrzykowski) and Samuel Ray Dickinson. [5] (#cite_note-bpl1-5) Her mother was of Polish descent and her father was of Irish descent. [5] (#cite_note-bpl1-5) She was raised in Hollywood, Florida (/wiki/Hollywood,_Florida) with her elder sister, Alexis, who became a real estate agent, and her younger sister, Debbie (/wiki/Debbie_Dickinson) , who also became a model. [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) [7] (#cite_note-askmen.com-7) Dickinson has been open about the emotional and physical abuse she suffered as a child and teenager, [3] (#cite_note-transcripts.cnn.com-3) [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) [8] (#cite_note-starpulse.com-8) and how her father used to sexually abuse (/wiki/Child_sexual_abuse) one of her sisters. Of her childhood with her "rageoholic pedophile (/wiki/Pedophilia) " of a father, Dickinson stated, "Because I wouldn't give in and let him have sex with me, I was verbally and physically abused on a daily basis. I was told that I looked like a boy and wouldn't amount to anything." [8] (#cite_note-starpulse.com-8) Modeling career [ edit ] In the early 1970s, Dickinson moved to New York City to pursue work as a model after winning a national competition called "Miss High Fashion Model." [7] (#cite_note-askmen.com-7) [9] (#cite_note-seattlepi-9) At a time when blue-eyed blondes dominated the fashion scene, [10] (#cite_note-time81-10) Dickinson was turned down several times by modeling agents, including Eileen Ford (/wiki/Eileen_Ford) , who informed Dickinson she was "much too ethnic. You'll never work." [9] (#cite_note-seattlepi-9) She was discovered by the fashion photographer (/wiki/Fashion_photography) Jacques Silberstein when his girlfriend, actress Lorraine Bracco (/wiki/Lorraine_Bracco) , mentioned she liked Dickinson's look. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) Wilhelmina Cooper (/wiki/Wilhelmina_Cooper) became Dickinson's first agent. Her modeling pursuits led her to Paris, France, where her "exotic looks" secured her reputation within the European fashion industry. [9] (#cite_note-seattlepi-9) She returned to New York City in 1978, and spent the next several years working steadily, earning $2,000 per day, nearly four times the standard rate. [9] (#cite_note-seattlepi-9) Dickinson eventually signed with Ford Models (/wiki/Ford_Models) to land a major ad campaign (/wiki/Ad_campaign) for a new JVC (/wiki/JVC) camera. [13] (#cite_note-nymag-13) Dickinson, who had not forgotten Ford's initial rejection, was intent on revenge. [13] (#cite_note-nymag-13) She soon orchastrated some twenty Ford models to defect to John Casablancas's upstart Elite Model Management (/wiki/Elite_Model_Management) . [14] (#cite_note-time80-14) By the 1980s, Dickinson was considered a supermodel (/wiki/Supermodel) , as she "possessed the kind of name and face recognition" that the majority of women in the modeling industry strive to achieve. [7] (#cite_note-askmen.com-7) She appeared within and on covers of magazines including Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) , Photo (/wiki/Photo_(French_magazine)) , Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Marie Claire (/wiki/Marie_Claire) , and Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) , and worked with some of fashion's best-known names, including Bill Blass (/wiki/Bill_Blass) , Gianni Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace) , Valentino Garavani (/wiki/Valentino_Garavani) , Azzedine Alaïa (/wiki/Azzedine_Alaia) , Pino Lancetti (/wiki/Pino_Lancetti) , Halston (/wiki/Halston) , Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) and Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) . [15] (#cite_note-No_Lifeguard_on_Duty-15) She has appeared on the cover of Vogue (International editions only) 37 times. [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) She was seen on the cover of Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) seven times in a row and has been the face of ad campaigns for brands including Revlon (/wiki/Revlon) , Alberto VO5 (/wiki/Alberto-Culver) , Balmain (/wiki/Balmain_(fashion_house)) , Obao (/wiki/Garnier) , Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) , Clairol (/wiki/Clairol) , Hush Puppies (/wiki/Hush_Puppies) , Orbit gum (/wiki/Orbit_gum) , Max Factor (/wiki/Max_Factor) , Virginia Slims (/wiki/Virginia_Slims) , and Cutex (/wiki/Cutex) . [10] (#cite_note-time81-10) [15] (#cite_note-No_Lifeguard_on_Duty-15) Dickinson looked for ways to sustain her relevance within the fashion industry as she aged, becoming a fashion photographer. In 2008, she launched her own jewelry (/wiki/Jewelry) line on HSN (/wiki/Home_Shopping_Network) . [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2009, Dickinson recorded a song entitled "Crazy", which was written and produced by Craig Taylor. [17] (#cite_note-17) "First supermodel" claim [ edit ] Dickinson (right) and Samata (/wiki/Samata_(fashion_entrepreneur)) at London Fashion Week (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) 2010 While Dickinson claims to have coined the term supermodel in 1979, and to be the first "supermodel", [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) the word already was known in the 1940s. The writer Judith Cass used the term in 1942 in her Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) article "Super Models are Signed for Fashion Show". [20] (#cite_note-20) In 1943, author Clyde Matthew Dessner used the term in his book So You Want to Be a Model! [21] (#cite_note-21) The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , on March 21, 1967, and The Daily Times (/wiki/The_Daily_Times_(Salisbury)) of Salisbury, Maryland (/wiki/Salisbury,_Maryland) on May 19, 1967, both referred to Twiggy (/wiki/Twiggy) as a supermodel. [22] (#cite_note-22) In 1968, an article in Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) described Twiggy, Cheryl Tiegs (/wiki/Cheryl_Tiegs) , Wilhelmina (/wiki/Wilhelmina_Cooper) , Veruschka (/wiki/Veruschka) , Jean Shrimpton (/wiki/Jean_Shrimpton) , and 15 other models as "supermodels". [23] (#cite_note-23) Syndicated columnist Suzy Knickerbocker (/wiki/Suzy_Knickerbocker) in 1970 described Penelope Tree (/wiki/Penelope_Tree) as a supermodel. [24] (#cite_note-24) The April 23, 1971, issue of The Hour (/wiki/The_Hour_(newspaper)) headlined one of its articles "Supermodels Reveal Their Beauty Secrets", including an advertisement with the caption (/wiki/Photo_caption) "Supermodel Cheryl Tiegs". The article also says, "The fashion/beauty world is dotted with Supermodels" and " Cybill Shepherd (/wiki/Cybill_Shepherd) a Supermodel who may turn into a Superstar." [25] (#cite_note-25) Jean Shrimpton (/wiki/Jean_Shrimpton) was described as a supermodel by Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) in 1971, [26] (#cite_note-26) as were Margaux Hemingway (/wiki/Margaux_Hemingway) by Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) on September 1, 1975, [27] (#cite_note-27) Beverly Johnson (/wiki/Beverly_Johnson) by Jet (/wiki/Jet_(magazine)) in 1977, [28] (#cite_note-28) and Naomi Sims (/wiki/Naomi_Sims) in the 1978 book Total Beauty Catalog by K.T. Maclay. [29] (#cite_note-29) Lisa Fonssagrives (/wiki/Lisa_Fonssagrives) [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) and Dorian Leigh (/wiki/Dorian_Leigh) , whose careers began before Dickinson was born, have been retroactively recognized as the 20th century's first supermodels. [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) Gia Carangi (/wiki/Gia_Carangi) has been called the first supermodel [36] (#cite_note-independent-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) as well as Jean Shrimpton (/wiki/Jean_Shrimpton) . [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) [41] (#cite_note-41) [42] (#cite_note-42) Lauren Hutton (/wiki/Lauren_Hutton) has also been referred to as the first supermodel, due to the fact that she was the first model to get a cosmetics contract. (In 1974 with Revlon.) Television career [ edit ] In 2003, Dickinson returned to media attention with her stint as a judge on the reality television series America's Next Top Model (/wiki/America%27s_Next_Top_Model) . She was hired after producer Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) read No Lifeguard On Duty and realized that Dickinson could offer the contestants advice on the perils of the fashion industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) . As a panelist, Dickinson became known for her wit and incisive, brutally honest critiques. [43] (#cite_note-43) Dickinson frequently quarreled with her fellow judges, particularly Kimora Lee Simmons (/wiki/Kimora_Lee_Simmons) and Nolé Marin (/wiki/Nol%C3%A9_Marin) . [44] (#cite_note-44) A recurring source of tension between Dickinson and Banks was the former's dubiety concerning plus-size models (/wiki/Plus-size_model) . [45] (#cite_note-45) After four cycles, Banks fired Dickinson, replacing her with Twiggy (/wiki/Twiggy) . Dickinson was hurt by the decision. "I was just telling the truth and I was saving these girls from going out there and being told that they're too short, too fat, their skin's not good enough," she said. "I was to America's Next Top Model what Simon Cowell (/wiki/Simon_Cowell) is to American Idol (/wiki/American_Idol) ." [46] (#cite_note-46) Despite this, Dickinson made guest appearances on the following three cycles: As the photographer for a photo challenge in cycle 5, in a mentor role in cycle 6, and as the interviewee for an interview challenge in cycle 7. In 2005, Dickinson was a cast member on The Surreal Life (/wiki/The_Surreal_Life) during its fifth season. She was confronted by castmate Omarosa Manigault (/wiki/Omarosa_Manigault) during a publicity photo shoot while Dickinson was posing with a prop knife. After being physically separated by Bronson Pinchot (/wiki/Bronson_Pinchot) the two continued to feud throughout the series. [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) In 2006, Dickinson starred in her own reality show, The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency (/wiki/The_Janice_Dickinson_Modeling_Agency) , for the Oxygen (/wiki/Oxygen_(TV_channel)) cable-television channel. The program, which ran for four seasons, documented Dickinson launching a new career as a modeling agent. She appeared with British model Abigail Clancy (/wiki/Abigail_Clancy) in Beauty & The Best , a reality series detailing Clancy's attempt to break into the American modeling market. The show debuted in the United Kingdom on Living (/wiki/Sky_Witness) on May 14, 2007, and premiered in the U.S. on Oxygen on February 19, 2008. [49] (#cite_note-imdb-49) In November 2007, Dickinson became one of the celebrities taking part in the British reality television show I'm a Celebrity…Get Me out of Here! (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity%E2%80%A6Get_Me_out_of_Here!_(UK_series_7)) . She set the record for most Bushtucker (/wiki/Bushtucker) trials, competing ten times in a row. In the finale of the series, it was announced that Dickinson had gained second place in the competition, with Christopher Biggins (/wiki/Christopher_Biggins) coming first. [ citation needed ] Dickinson was also a contestant for season two of the American version of I'm a Celebrity... Get Me Out of Here! (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity..._Get_Me_out_of_Here!_(US_season_2)) which began airing in June 2009. [50] (#cite_note-50) She was eliminated from the show on June 18, 2009. [ citation needed ] In 2009, Dickinson was a guest judge on the Finnish version (/wiki/Suomen_huippumalli_haussa,_Cycle_2) of the Top Model franchise. She created controversy after the claimed effects of accidentally mixing a sleeping aid with champagne caused her to fall down a flight of stairs and burst out at the models. Dickinson was taken to a hospital where she was told she had no visible injuries. She later apologized to the models during the show's airing. [51] (#cite_note-51) Other guest appearances include "Still Charmed and Kicking", an episode of Charmed (/wiki/Charmed) . Dickinson made a cameo appearance in Darren Hayes (/wiki/Darren_Hayes) 's music video " On the Verge of Something Wonderful (/wiki/On_the_Verge_of_Something_Wonderful) ". In 2010, Dickinson appeared on the celebrity edition of British dinner-party contest Come Dine with Me (/wiki/Come_Dine_with_Me) , on which she frequently butted heads with former Page 3 Girl (/wiki/Page_3_Girl) Samantha Fox (/wiki/Samantha_Fox) over her glamour modeling career, and flirted with Calum Best (/wiki/Calum_Best) . [52] (#cite_note-52) Dickinson appeared in the fourth season (/wiki/List_of_Celebrity_Rehab_with_Dr._Drew_episodes#Season_4) of Celebrity Rehab with Dr. Drew (/wiki/Celebrity_Rehab_with_Dr._Drew) , which premiered in December 2010. [53] (#cite_note-53) In 2011, she guest-starred in an episode of 90210 (/wiki/90210_(TV_series)) (titled "Project Runway"). [54] (#cite_note-54) In August 2015, Dickinson was a housemate on the sixteenth season (/wiki/Celebrity_Big_Brother_(British_series_16)) of the British reality show, Celebrity Big Brother (/wiki/Celebrity_Big_Brother_(British_TV_series)) . She became the seventh celebrity to be evicted from the house, just two days before the final. [ citation needed ] In 2020, Dickinson appeared on season 24 of The Bachelor. In 2023, she appeared on I'm a Celebrity... South Africa (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity..._South_Africa) , which acted as an all-star series for the UK version of the show, but had to withdraw from the show on day 11 after she suffered a head injury, which required her being taken to hospital. [55] (#cite_note-55) Despite this, she still finished in 10th place out of 15 contestants. TikTok career [ edit ] Dickinson sparked on TikTok (/wiki/TikTok) in 2023, when she would react to models walks and rate them. She currently has over 600K+ followers on TikTok (/wiki/TikTok) . Janice has reacted to many supermodels walks like, Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) , Shalom Harlow (/wiki/Shalom_Harlow) , Carmen Kass (/wiki/Carmen_Kass) , Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) , Vlada Roslyakova (/wiki/Vlada_Roslyakova) and many more. [56] (#cite_note-56) Janice gives her advice to future models who want to approach the industry. [57] (#cite_note-57) Personal life [ edit ] Dickinson has been married four times. Her former husbands are Ron Levy, [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) [58] (#cite_note-58) Simon Fields, [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) and Alan B. Gersten, [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) also known as Albert Gersten. [4] (#cite_note-nndb-4) She has a son, Nathan, and a daughter, Savannah. [6] (#cite_note-usmagazine.com-6) Dickinson was having an affair with Sylvester Stallone (/wiki/Sylvester_Stallone) when Savannah was born in 1994, and it was reported that Stallone was the father. [59] (#cite_note-59) Their relationship ended when DNA tests proved he was not the father. [60] (#cite_note-60) In her books and in interviews, she has discussed her numerous sexual relationships with male and female celebrities. [61] (#cite_note-61) In 2012, she announced she was engaged to Dr. Robert Gerner ("Rocky"), [62] (#cite_note-us-engagement-62) a psychiatrist [63] (#cite_note-63) whom she married in December 2016. [64] (#cite_note-64) In November 2014, Dickinson joined a number of women accusing comedian Bill Cosby (/wiki/Bill_Cosby) of rape, alleging that Cosby raped her in 1982. Dickinson said that she tried to write about this in her 2002 autobiography, but Cosby and his lawyers pressured her and her lawyers to remove the details. [65] (#cite_note-cosby-65) In March 2016, it was revealed that Dickinson had been diagnosed with breast cancer (/wiki/Breast_cancer) . [66] (#cite_note-66) Books [ edit ] Dickinson released a memoir detailing her "wild days" as a supermodel. Titled No Lifeguard on Duty: The Accidental Life of the World's First Supermodel (2002), the book was effective in introducing her to a new generation. [7] (#cite_note-askmen.com-7) Her 2004 follow-up memoir was Everything About Me Is Fake… And I'm Perfect , [7] (#cite_note-askmen.com-7) [67] (#cite_note-Everything_About_Me_Is_Fake-67) in which she describes her life in modeling; her experience with plastic surgery (/wiki/Plastic_surgery) ; and her battles with anorexia (/wiki/Anorexia_nervosa) , bulimia (/wiki/Bulimia_nervosa) , and alcoholism (/wiki/Alcoholism) . [67] (#cite_note-Everything_About_Me_Is_Fake-67) Her next memoir, Check Please! Dating, Mating, and Extricating (2006), discusses the men in her life, and prescribes her rules for dating. [68] (#cite_note-68) Bibliography [ edit ] Dickinson, Janice (2002). No Lifeguard on Duty – The Accidental Life of the World's First Supermodel . New York City: ReganBooks (/wiki/ReganBooks) ; ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-000946-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-06-000946-5) Filmography [ edit ] As actress Year Title Role Notes 1983 Exposed (/wiki/Exposed_(1983_film)) Model 1998 Buddy Faro (/wiki/Buddy_Faro) Evelyn Maynard 1 episode 2005 Charmed (/wiki/Charmed) Paige #2 Episode: "Still Charmed and Kicking" 2005 Wassup Rockers (/wiki/Wassup_Rockers) Beverly Hills Actress Cameo appearance 2021 Pink Rehabilitation Dr. Janice As herself Year Title Role Notes 2003–2006 America's Next Top Model (/wiki/America%27s_Next_Top_Model) Judge 2004 Rock Me Baby Herself Episode: "Look Who's Talking" 2005 The Surreal Life (/wiki/The_Surreal_Life) Herself Season 5 2005–2006 The Tyra Banks Show (/wiki/The_Tyra_Banks_Show) Herself 10 episodes 2006 Million Dollar Listing Los Angeles (/wiki/Million_Dollar_Listing_Los_Angeles) Herself 1 episode 2006–2008 The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency (/wiki/The_Janice_Dickinson_Modeling_Agency) Herself 2007 Janice & Abbey (/wiki/Janice_%26_Abbey) Herself Main role 2007 I'm a Celebrity...Get Me Out of Here! (UK) (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity...Get_Me_Out_of_Here!_(British_TV_series)) Participant Series 7 (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity...Get_Me_Out_of_Here!_(British_series_7)) , runner-up 2009 I'm a Celebrity...Get Me Out of Here! (US) (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity...Get_Me_Out_of_Here!_(American_TV_series)) Participant Season 2 (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity...Get_Me_Out_of_Here!_(American_season_2)) 2010 Finland’s Next Top Model Guest judge 1 episode 2010 Come Dine with Me (/wiki/Come_Dine_with_Me) Herself Celebrity edition episode 2010 8 Out of 10 Cats (/wiki/8_Out_of_10_Cats) Herself 1 episode 2010 Loose Women (/wiki/Loose_Women) Herself Guest panellist; 2 episodes 2010–2011 Celebrity Rehab with Dr. Drew (/wiki/Celebrity_Rehab_with_Dr._Drew) Herself 2011 Celebrity Juice (/wiki/Celebrity_Juice) Herself 2 episodes 2011 Britain and Ireland's Next Top Model (/wiki/Britain_and_Ireland%27s_Next_Top_Model) Guest judge 2 episodes 2012 Sweden's Next Top Model (/wiki/Sweden%27s_Next_Top_Model) Guest judge 2012 RuPaul's Drag Race All Stars (/wiki/RuPaul%27s_Drag_Race_All_Stars) Guest judge 1 episode 2014, 2016 Botched Herself 2 episodes 2015 Celebrity Big Brother 16 Contestant Series 16 (/wiki/Celebrity_Big_Brother_(British_series_16)) , 7th place 2015 Couples Therapy Herself 5 episodes 2018 The Face Thailand (/wiki/The_Face_Thailand) Guest judge 1 episode 2020 The Bachelor Herself 1 episode 2023 I'm a Celebrity... South Africa (/wiki/I%27m_a_Celebrity..._South_Africa) Participant 11 episodes (withdrew) See also [ edit ] Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Television portal (/wiki/Portal:Television) List of people from Florida (/wiki/List_of_people_from_Florida) List of people from Brooklyn, New York (/wiki/List_of_people_from_Brooklyn,_New_York) List of women writers (/wiki/List_of_women_writers) List of people in Playboy 1980–1989 (/wiki/List_of_people_in_Playboy_1980%E2%80%931989) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Janice Dickinson" (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Janice_Dickinson) . Fashion Model Directory (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160603084243/http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Janice_Dickinson) from the original on June 3, 2016 . Retrieved July 15, 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-dickinson-gives-birthdate_2-0) As per Dickinson in Hashish, Amira (March 1, 2011). "Introducing the new Janice Dickinson – what America's top model did" (https://www.standard.co.uk/showbiz/starinterviews/introducing-the-new-janice-dickinson--what-americas-top-model-did-next-6572343.html) . London Evening Standard (/wiki/London_Evening_Standard) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160531022633/http://www.standard.co.uk/showbiz/starinterviews/introducing-the-new-janice-dickinson-what-americas-top-model-did-next-6572343.html) from the original on May 31, 2016. Yes, I turned 56 on February 16. NNDB (/wiki/NNDB) at Janice Dickinson profile (http://www.nndb.com/people/491/000047350) gives February 15, 1955, noting, "Although Dickinson has maintained in several interviews and her autobiography No Lifeguard on Duty that she was born in 1955, other sources give it as 1953 or 1954. Most details from her life support 1955. Her birthday is also given variously as February 15 and February 17." Among those giving February 17, 1953, is Fashion Model Directory (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Janice_Dickinson/) . The New York Birth Index (https://www.ancestry.com/imageviewer/collections/61457/images/47769_b353840-00173?treeid=&personid=&hintid=&queryId=6b5fa516c290f6b960678ca414915bce&usePUB=true&_phsrc=JuL82&_phstart=successSource&usePUBJs=true&pId=8233981) shows a birth date of February 15, 1955. (subscription required). ^ Jump up to: a b "Behind the Cover Girl: Getting Real with Janice Dickinson" (http://transcripts.cnn.com/TRANSCRIPTS/0701/10/gb.01.html) . CNN. January 10, 2007. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160303222238/http://transcripts.cnn.com/TRANSCRIPTS/0701/10/gb.01.html) from the original on March 3, 2016 . Retrieved August 6, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Janice Dickinson" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304213646/http://www.nndb.com/people/491/000047350) . NNDB.com. Archived from the original (http://www.nndb.com/people/491/000047350) on March 4, 2016 . Retrieved March 28, 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b Dickinson, Janice (October 13, 2009). No Lifeguard on Duty: The Accidental Life of the World's First Supermodel . Harper Collins. p. 5. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-175084-7 . Retrieved November 7, 2012 – via Google Books (/wiki/Google_Books) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h "Janice Dickinson" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071213090758/http://usmagazine.com/janice_dickinson) . Us Weekly (/wiki/Us_Weekly) . Archived from the original (http://usmagazine.com/janice_dickinson) on December 13, 2007 . Retrieved October 28, 2011 . She has two teenaged children, a son, Nathan, and a daughter, Savannah. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Janice Dickinson profile" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080809184354/http://www.askmen.com/celebs/women/models/janice-dickinson/index.html) . AskMen.com. September 18, 2008. Archived from the original (http://www.askmen.com/celebs/women/models/janice-dickinson/index.html) on August 9, 2008 . Retrieved January 15, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Supermodel Janice Dickinson May Have Facilitated Father's Death" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140514014147/http://www.starpulse.com/news/index.php/2006/09/26/supermodel_janice_dickinson_may_have_fac) . Starpulse.com. World Entertainment News Network (/wiki/World_Entertainment_News_Network) . September 26, 2006. Archived from the original (http://www.starpulse.com/news/index.php/2006/09/26/supermodel_janice_dickinson_may_have_fac) on May 14, 2014 . Retrieved August 6, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Phinney, Susan (September 28, 2002). "A Moment with ... Janice Dickinson, Model/Photographer/Author" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121010190831/http://www.seattlepi.com/books/88931_supermodel.shtml) . Seattle Post-Intelligencer (/wiki/Seattle_Post-Intelligencer) . Archived from the original (http://www.seattlepi.com/books/88931_supermodel.shtml) on October 10, 2012 . Retrieved December 7, 2009 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Modeling the '80s Look: The Faces and Fees Are Fabulous" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070711184514/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,922428-7,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . February 9, 1981. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,922428-7,00.html) on July 11, 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Holland, Nicole. "Janice Dickinson: Breaking the Mold" (http://www.independentfilmquarterly.com/ifq/issues/issue13/janice-dickenson.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090613044123/http://www.independentfilmquarterly.com/ifq/issues/issue13/janice-dickenson.htm) June 13, 2009, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Independent Film Quarterly . Issue 13. ^ (#cite_ref-12) "The Edited Version of a Biography by Janice Dickinson" (https://web.archive.org/web/20011210193516/http://www2.nygard.com/corporate/news/janice_dickinson.html) . NYGard Magazine. December 3, 2007. Archived from the original (http://www2.nygard.com/corporate/news/janice_dickinson.html) on December 10, 2001. ^ Jump up to: a b Malkin, Marc S. (May 27, 2002) "Janice Dickinson: Her Lips Aren't Sealed" (http://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/columns/intelligencer/6040/) , New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) ; accessed April 7, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-time80_14-0) Demarest, Michael; Harbison, Georgia (August 25, 1980). "Come with Me to Casablancas" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071018045735/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,949003-1,00.html) , Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) ; accessed November 19, 2014. ^ Jump up to: a b No Lifeguard on Duty: The Accidental Life of The World's First Supermodel . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "HSN Jewelry" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111011195533/http://jewelry.hsn.com/janice-dickinson_c-j_a-6189_xc.aspx) . Archived from the original (https://jewelry.hsn.com/janice-dickinson_c-j_a-6189_xc.aspx) on October 11, 2011 . Retrieved November 19, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Glassman, Sara (June 1, 2009). "In Bed with Janice Dickinson" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111011230154/http://www.startribune.com/lifestyle/46477697.html) . Star Tribune (/wiki/Star_Tribune) . Archived from the original (http://www.startribune.com/lifestyle/46477697.html) on October 11, 2011 . Retrieved April 7, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Dickinson, Janice (June 1, 2006). "Janice Dickinson" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071207182913/http://instinctmagazine.com/celebrity-interviews/janice-dickinson.html) . Instinct (/wiki/Instinct_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://instinctmagazine.com/celebrity-interviews/janice-dickinson.html) on December 7, 2007 . Retrieved June 9, 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) She related on E! True Hollywood Story (/wiki/E!_True_Hollywood_Story) that her manager, concerned that at the peak of her modeling career she was working too much, told her, "You are not Superman (/wiki/Superman) ." Dickinson said she replied, "I am not Superman, I am a supermodel." ^ (#cite_ref-20) Cass, Judith (October 6, 1942). " (http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1942/10/06/page/21/article/super-models-are-signed-for-fashion-show) 'Super' Models Are Signed for Fashion Show" (http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1942/10/06/page/21/article/super-models-are-signed-for-fashion-show) . Chicago Daily Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Daily_Tribune) . p. 21 . 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"Supermodels Reveal Their Beauty Secrets" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=mwUhAAAAIBAJ&pg=3277,3932395&dq=supermodels=en) . The Hour (/wiki/The_Hour_(newspaper)) . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "People" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081221201229/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,944363,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . May 17, 1971. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,944363,00.html) on December 21, 2008 . Retrieved June 16, 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20120228203741/http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cooperama/DL726TALSFST.jpg) Vogue cover scan archived from Ebay.co.uk" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120228203741/http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cooperama/DL726TALSFST.jpg) . img.inkfrog.com. September 1, 1975. Archived from the original (http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/cooperama/DL726TALSFST.jpg) on February 28, 2012 . 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The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) ; retrieved October 30, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-44) Silverman, Stephen M. (December 29, 2005). "Janice Dickinson to Head Modeling Agency" (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,1144548,00.html) , people.com; retrieved October 30, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-45) Staff (June 26, 2003). "Tyra Banks' Model Catfight; Kevin Costner Engaged; Kelly Osbourne's Bar Room Brawl" (http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2003/06/26/ddish.DTL&type=printable) , sfgate.com; retrieved October 30, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Janice Dickinson: "I Was Fired from 'Tyra Banks Show'"" (http://www.contactmusic.com/new/xmlfeed.nsf/story/janice-dickinson-i-was-fired-from-tyra-banks-show) . Contactmusic.com . September 20, 2005 . Retrieved October 30, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Holmes, Linda (September 22, 2005). "Omarosa Vs. Janice: 'Surreal' Battle of the Divas – Castmates' Attention-Grabbing Tactics Makes for Entertaining Viewing" (https://www.today.com/popculture/omarosa-vs-janice-surreal-battle-divas-wbna9368261) , msnbc.com; retrieved October 30, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-48) "The 20 Greatest Celebreality Moments" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090715074457/http://www.vh1.com/video/play.jhtml?id=1526841&vid=79381) , vh1.com, September 22, 2005. ^ (#cite_ref-imdb_49-0) Janice Dickinson (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0225528/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) ; accessed April 7, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-50) " (https://www.tvguide.com/News/Im-Celebrity-Cast-1005446.aspx) I'm a Celebrity Cast Announced" (https://www.tvguide.com/News/Im-Celebrity-Cast-1005446.aspx) . TVGuide.com . Retrieved April 24, 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Odell, Amy (May 29, 2009). 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Retrieved May 21, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) "Ron Levy was married to Janice Dickinson – Ron Levy Dating History" (http://m.zimbio.com/Ron+Levy+Dating+History/articles/V8URjZmGiEv/Ron+Levy+married+Janice+Dickinson) . Zimbio.com . Retrieved April 7, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) Schneide, Karen S. (March 2, 1994). "Rocky Ending" (https://people.com/archive/rocky-ending-vol-41-no-16/) . People . ^ (#cite_ref-60) Levitt, Shelley (April 24, 1995). "Yo, Angie, Marry Me!" (https://people.com/archive/yo-angie-marry-me-vol-43-no-16/) . People . ^ (#cite_ref-61) MacKenzie, Drew. "Dickinson, on the Covers – and Under Them" (https://web.archive.org/web/20040528121419/http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/story/194022p-167656c.html) . Daily News (/wiki/Daily_News_(New_York)) . New York City. Archived from the original (http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/story/194022p-167656c.html) on May 28, 2004 . Retrieved September 24, 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-us-engagement_62-0) "Janice Dickinson "Couldn't Be Happier" Over Engagement to Dr. Robert Gerner" (http://www.usmagazine.com/celebrity-news/news/janice-dickinson-couldnt-be-happier-over-engagement-to-dr-robert-gerner-20121612) . Us Weekly (/wiki/Us_Weekly) . December 16, 2012 . Retrieved March 28, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) Dr. Robert Gerner profile (http://www.healthgrades.com/physician/dr-robert-gerner-2sph3) , healthgrades.com; accessed November 19, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-64) "Janice Dickinson Marries Dr. Robert Gerner in Beverly Hills Ceremony" (https://www.etonline.com/news/204726_janice_dickinson_is_married) . ET Online . December 10, 2006 . Retrieved May 15, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-cosby_65-0) Bueno, Antoinette (November 18, 2014). "Exclusive: Janice Dickinson Details Bill Cosby Sexual Assault Accusations: He Raped Me" (http://www.etonline.com/news/154076_janice_dickinson_details_alleged_bill_cosby_sexual_assault) . Entertainment Tonight (/wiki/Entertainment_Tonight) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160910071552/http://www.etonline.com/news/154076_janice_dickinson_details_alleged_bill_cosby_sexual_assault) from the original on September 10, 2016 . Retrieved November 19, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) Woolf, Nicky (March 28, 2016). "Supermodel Janice Dickinson reveals she has breast cancer" (https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2016/mar/28/janice-dickinson-supermodel-breast-cancer) . The Guardian . ^ Jump up to: a b Dickinson, Janice. Everything About Me Is Fake – And I'm Perfect . New York City: ReganBooks (/wiki/ReganBooks) (2004); ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-055469-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-06-055469-9) ^ (#cite_ref-68) Dickinson, Janice (2006). Check, Please! – Dating, Mating, and Extricating , New York City: ReganBooks (/wiki/ReganBooks) ; ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-06-076391-6 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-06-076391-6) External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Janice Dickinson (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Janice_Dickinson) . 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For other uses, see Hugo Boss (disambiguation) (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_(disambiguation)) . German luxury fashion company Hugo Boss AG Headquarters in Metzingen, Germany Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) ( Aktiengesellschaft (/wiki/Aktiengesellschaft) ) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) FWB (/wiki/Frankfurt_Stock_Exchange) : BOSS (https://www.boerse-frankfurt.de/global-search/BOSS) MDAX Component (/wiki/MDAX) Industry Clothing (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Founded 1924 ; 100 years ago ( 1924 ) Founder Hugo Ferdinand Boss (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_(businessman)) Headquarters Metzingen (/wiki/Metzingen) , Germany Key people Daniel Grieder ( CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Yves Müller ( CFO (/wiki/Chief_financial_officer) / COO (/wiki/Chief_operating_officer) ) Oliver Timm ( CSO (/wiki/Chief_revenue_officer) ) [1] (#cite_note-1) Products High-fashion (/wiki/Fashion_design) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) Revenue € (/wiki/Euro) 4.2 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €410 million (2023) [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €270 million (2023) [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €3.472 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €1.311 billion (2023) [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Owners Free Float (/wiki/Public_float) (83%) Marzotto (/wiki/Marzotto) family (15%) Own shares (/wiki/Treasury_stock) (2%) Number of employees 18,738 (2023) [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Website hugoboss (https://hugoboss.com) .com (https://hugoboss.com) Hugo Boss AG (stylized as HUGO BOSS ) is a fashion (/wiki/Fashion) company headquartered in Metzingen (/wiki/Metzingen) , Baden-Württemberg (/wiki/Baden-W%C3%BCrttemberg) , Germany (/wiki/Germany) . The company sells clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) , footwear (/wiki/Footwear) , and leather goods (/wiki/Leather) . Hugo Boss is one of the largest German clothing brands, [3] (#cite_note-3) with global sales of about €4.2 billion in 2023. [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) Its stock is a component of the MDAX (/wiki/MDAX) . [4] (#cite_note-4) The company's fashion brands are Boss and Hugo . Hugo Boss also sells licensed brand products for children's fashion, eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) , watches (/wiki/Watch) , home textiles, riding apparel, writing utensils (/wiki/Writing_implement) and fragrances (/wiki/Perfume) . [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) The company was founded in 1924 in Germany by Hugo Ferdinand Boss (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_(fashion_designer)) and originally produced general-purpose clothing. In the early 1930s, Hugo Boss began to produce and supply military uniforms (/wiki/Military_uniform) for the Nazi Germany government (/wiki/Government_of_Nazi_Germany) , resulting in a large boost in sales. [6] (#cite_note-one-6) After World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) and the founder's death in 1948, Hugo Boss started to turn its focus to men's suits (/wiki/Men%27s_suits) . The company went public (/wiki/Went_public) in 1988 and introduced a fragrance line that same year, adding men's and women's wear diffusion lines (/wiki/Diffusion_line) in 1997, a full women's collection in 2000, and children's clothing in 2006–2007. The company has since evolved into a major global fashion house. As of 2015 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hugo_Boss&action=edit) , it operated more than 1,418 retail stores worldwide. [2] (#cite_note-AR2023-2) History [ edit ] Early years [ edit ] After the end of the First World War (/wiki/World_War_I) , Hugo Ferdinand Boss (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_(businessman)) (1885–1948) took over his parents' clothing retail business in Metzingen, where it still operates, and registered it as a business for manufactured goods in 1922. [7] (#cite_note-NYT-7) In 1924, he started a factory for the production of workwear along with two partners, Albert and Theodor Bräuchle, as shareholders. The company produced shirts, jackets, work clothing, sportswear, and raincoats. In 1925 and 1926, Hugo Boss, like all Metzingen companies, announced Kurzarbeit (/wiki/Kurzarbeit) for its almost 30 employees. In connection with the global economic crisis following the New York stock market crash of 1929 (/wiki/Wall_Street_Crash_of_1929) , the company had to reduce its workforce by almost a quarter and file for bankruptcy (/wiki/Bankruptcy) in 1931. In the same year, Hugo Ferdinand Boss reached an agreement with his creditors, leaving him with six sewing machines (/wiki/Sewing_machine) to start again. [6] (#cite_note-one-6) Manufacturing for the Nazi Party [ edit ] 1933 ad placed by Hugo Boss for Nazi uniforms, work, sports, and rainwear That same year, Hugo Ferdinand Boss became a member of the Nazi Party (/wiki/Nazi_Party) , receiving the membership number 508 889, and a sponsoring member ("Förderndes Mitglied") of the Schutzstaffel (/wiki/Schutzstaffel) (SS). [8] (#cite_note-8) He also joined the German Labour Front (/wiki/German_Labour_Front) in 1936, the Reich Air Protection Association (/wiki/Reichsluftschutzbund) in 1939, and the National Socialist People's Welfare (/wiki/National_Socialist_People%27s_Welfare) in 1941. [9] (#cite_note-:20-9) He was also a member of the Reichskriegerbund and the Reichsbund for physical exercises. [10] (#cite_note-Timm-10) After joining these organizations, he received orders for the production of clothing for the Nazi Party and its organizations, which helped Hugo Ferdinand Boss to stabilize the company again and his sales increased from 38,260 ℛ︁ℳ︁ (/wiki/Reichsmark) ($26,993 U.S. dollars in 1932) to over 3,300,000 ℛ︁ℳ︁ in 1941. [6] (#cite_note-one-6) [10] (#cite_note-Timm-10) Though he claimed in a 1934–35 advertisement that he had been a "supplier for National Socialist uniforms since 1924", it is probable that he did not begin to supply them until 1928 at the earliest, but was one of the first to produce brown shirts, copies of the "Lettow shirts" introduced to the SA (/wiki/Sturmabteilung) by Gerhard Roßbach (/wiki/Gerhard_Ro%C3%9Fbach) in 1924 rather by chance. [10] (#cite_note-Timm-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) The factory was "one of numerous smaller manufacturing companies involved in uniform production". [6] (#cite_note-one-6) Hugo Boss was not involved in the design of the uniform. [12] (#cite_note-:4-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) 1924 is also the year the company became a Reichszeugmeisterei (/wiki/Reichszeugmeisterei) -licensed supplier of uniforms to the Sturmabteilung (SA), Schutzstaffel (/wiki/Schutzstaffel) (SS), Wehrmacht (/wiki/Wehrmacht) , Hitler Youth (/wiki/Hitler_Youth) , National Socialist Motor Corps (/wiki/National_Socialist_Motor_Corps) , and other party organizations. [9] (#cite_note-:20-9) [14] (#cite_note-14) By the third quarter of 1932, the all-black SS uniform (/wiki/Uniforms_and_insignia_of_the_Schutzstaffel) was designed by SS members Karl Diebitsch (/wiki/Karl_Diebitsch) (artist) and Walter Heck (/wiki/Walter_Heck) (graphic designer). The Hugo Boss company was one of the companies that produced these black uniforms for the SS. By 1938, the firm was focused on producing Wehrmacht uniforms (/wiki/Wehrmacht_uniforms) and later also uniforms for the Waffen-SS (/wiki/Waffen-SS) . [15] (#cite_note-:0-15) During the Second World War (/wiki/World_War_II) , besides its 300 employees, Hugo Boss employed 140 forced laborers, the majority of them women from the Soviet Union (/wiki/Soviet_Union) and Poland (/wiki/Poland) . In addition to these workers, 40 French prisoners of war also worked for the company briefly between October 1940 – April 1941. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-:6-17) According to German historian Henning Kober, the company managers were fervent Nazis who were all great admirers of Adolf Hitler (/wiki/Adolf_Hitler) . In 1945, Hugo Ferdinand Boss had a photograph in his apartment of him with Hitler, taken at Berghof (/wiki/Berghof_(residence)) , Hitler's Obersalzberg (/wiki/Obersalzberg) retreat. [6] (#cite_note-one-6) [18] (#cite_note-Kober-18) Because of his early Nazi Party membership, his financial support of the SS, and the uniforms delivered to the Nazi party, Hugo Ferdinand Boss was considered (/wiki/Denazification#ListAnchor) both an "activist" and a "supporter and beneficiary of National Socialism". [10] (#cite_note-Timm-10) [19] (#cite_note-:7-19) In a 1946 judgment, he was stripped of his voting rights, his capacity to run a business, and fined "a very heavy penalty" of 100,000 ℛ︁ℳ︁ (/wiki/Reichsmark) ($70,553 U.S.) (£54,008 stg (/wiki/Pound_sterling) ), which was later decreased to 25,000 ℛ︁ℳ︁ (/wiki/Reichsmark) . [10] (#cite_note-Timm-10) [19] (#cite_note-:7-19) However, Hugo Ferdinand Boss appealed, and he was eventually classified as a "follower", a lesser category, which meant that he was not regarded as an active promoter of National Socialism. [19] (#cite_note-:7-19) In June 2000, Hugo Boss joined the Foundation Initiative of German Business for the Compensation of Forced Laborers (/wiki/Foundation_Remembrance,_Responsibility_and_Future) and contributed financially to the fund. [17] (#cite_note-:6-17) An initial study commissioned by the company at the end of the 1990s on the situation in the Third Reich (/wiki/Nazi_Germany) was not published by the company. The author, Elisabeth Timm, later published it on the internet herself. [10] (#cite_note-Timm-10) Later, the economic historian (/wiki/Historian) Roman Köster conducted an independent study, which was also financed by the company and published by C. H. Beck (/wiki/C._H._Beck) in 2011. [6] (#cite_note-one-6) [12] (#cite_note-:4-12) In the same year, the company issued a statement of "profound regret to those who suffered harm or hardship at the factory run by Hugo Boss under National Socialist rule". [20] (#cite_note-20) Post-war and development into a fashion company [ edit ] Hugo Ferdinand Boss died in 1948, but his business survived. His son Siegfried Boss and his son-in-law Eugen Holy took over ownership and management of the company. Production initially focused on uniforms for the French army (/wiki/French_army) and the French Red Cross (/wiki/French_Red_Cross) , then on uniforms for the post office (/wiki/Post_office) , railroads (/wiki/Rail_transport) and police (/wiki/Police) . [21] (#cite_note-21) In 1950, the company received its first order for men's suits (/wiki/Men%27s_suit) , resulting in an expansion to 150 employees by the end of the year. Hugo Boss men's suits first appeared on the market in 1953. [22] (#cite_note-:17-22) By 1960, the company was producing ready-made suits. In 1967, Eugen retired, leaving the company to his sons Jochen and Uwe, who began international development. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) In 1970, the first Boss branded suits were produced and in 1972, the Holy brothers opened the first factory outlet in a nearby warehouse, which later became the Outletcity Metzingen . [25] (#cite_note-25) In 1975, the Austrian designer Werner Baldessarini (/wiki/Werner_Baldessarini) was hired and eventually became head designer. [26] (#cite_note-:8-26) The Boss brand was registered as a trademark in 1977. [27] (#cite_note-27) This was followed by the start of the company's long association with motorsport, sponsoring Formula One (/wiki/Formula_One) teams. [28] (#cite_note-:18-28) In 1984, the first Boss branded fragrance appeared. This helped the company gain the required growth for listing on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange (/wiki/Frankfurt_Stock_Exchange) the following year. [29] (#cite_note-29) The brand began a golf sponsorship for Bernhard Langer (/wiki/Bernhard_Langer) in 1986 and tennis for the Davis Cup (/wiki/Davis_Cup) in 1987. In 1989, Boss launched its first licensed sunglasses (/wiki/Sunglasses) . Later that year, the company was bought by a Japanese group. [30] (#cite_note-Luxury-30) After the Marzotto (/wiki/Marzotto) textile group acquired a 77.5% stake for $165,000,000 in 1991, [30] (#cite_note-Luxury-30) [31] (#cite_note-Marzotto_S.p.A-31) the Hugo , Boss and Baldessarini brands were introduced in 1993. In the same year, the Holy-brothers left the company and Peter Littmann became the new Chairman of the Management Board. [32] (#cite_note-32) In 1995, the company launched its footwear range, the first in a now fully developed leather products range, across all sub-brands. A partnership with the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation (/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Foundation) was launched in 1995, resulting in the Hugo Boss Prize (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_Prize) . [33] (#cite_note-33) In 1997, Littmann left the company after differences of opinion with the Marzotto Group and Baldessarini was appointed CEO in 1998. [26] (#cite_note-:8-26) Women's fashion ( Hugo Womenswear ) was first introduced in 1998, with the first women's fragrance ( Hugo Woman ) appearing at the same time. [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) Since then, multiple fragrances and skincare ranges have been launched. In January 1999, Hugo Boss launched its first website. [36] (#cite_note-36) Also in 1999, the Boss Orange brand was launched as a separate line for casual wear, followed by Boss Selection (2004) and Boss Green , which emerged from Boss Golf in 2004. [37] (#cite_note-37) 2000 saw the launch of Boss Woman , a product line initially managed by German fashion designer Grit Seymour in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , [38] (#cite_note-38) which has since also been presented at Berlin Fashion Week (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) and New York Fashion Week (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) . [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) [41] (#cite_note-41) In 2002, the company was repositioned with a design team at the Metzingen site. [42] (#cite_note-:9-42) [43] (#cite_note-43) The Baldessarini brand was sold to Werner Baldessarini in 2006 and replaced in the Boss range by the Boss Selection collection. [44] (#cite_note-:10-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) [46] (#cite_note-46) Boss Selection was expanded in 2009 to include Boss Selection Tailored Line , but was integrated into the core Boss brand in mid-2012. [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) Recent history and rise to an international fashion group [ edit ] Hugo Boss store in Brisbane (/wiki/Brisbane) , Australia In 2002, Baldessarini left the company and Bruno Sälzer took over the position of CEO. [49] (#cite_note-49) Under his leadership, Hugo Boss was transformed into a lifestyle group, the women's line was repositioned, and international expansion was driven forward, particularly in the Asian markets. [42] (#cite_note-:9-42) [50] (#cite_note-50) In 2005, Marzotto (/wiki/Marzotto) spun off its fashion (/wiki/Fashion) brands into the Valentino Fashion Group (/wiki/Valentino_Fashion_Group) . [51] (#cite_note-:11-51) In 2007, Valentino was acquired by financial investor Permira (/wiki/Permira) for €3.5 billion , which subsequently exerted a significant influence on the Hugo Boss company. [52] (#cite_note-52) Sälzer left the company in February 2008. [53] (#cite_note-53) In mid-2008, Permira appointed Claus-Dietrich Lahrs as CEO of Hugo Boss. [54] (#cite_note-:12-54) Shortly afterward, the company launched an online shop in the UK, followed by other countries. [55] (#cite_note-55) In 2009, the Boss brand was by far the largest segment, consisting of 68% of all sales. The remainder of sales were made up by Boss Orange at 17%, Boss Selection at 3%, Boss Green at 3% and Hugo at 9%. [56] (#cite_note-56) Also in 2009, Hugo Boss was carved out of the Valentino Fashion Group; from then on, the Hugo Boss stake was held by Permira via its Red & Black Holding. [51] (#cite_note-:11-51) Since a share placement on the stock exchange in November 2011, Permira has held around 66% of the total share capital and 89% of the voting rights in Hugo Boss. [57] (#cite_note-57) In 2010, the company had sales of $2,345,850,000 and a net profit of $262,183,000, with royalties of 42% of total net profit (/wiki/Net_profit) . [30] (#cite_note-Luxury-30) Hugo Boss then had at least 6,102 points of sale in 124 countries. Hugo Boss AG directly owned over 364 shops, 537 mono-brand shops, and over 1,000 franchisee-owned shops. [30] (#cite_note-Luxury-30) In June 2013, designer Jason Wu (/wiki/Jason_Wu) was hired as artistic director (/wiki/Artistic_director) of the Boss womenswear collection. [58] (#cite_note-58) [59] (#cite_note-59) [60] (#cite_note-60) [61] (#cite_note-61) The collaboration ended in 2018. [62] (#cite_note-62) In March 2015, Permira announced plans to sell the remaining shares of 12%. [63] (#cite_note-63) Since the exit of Permira, 91% of the shares have been floating on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange (/wiki/Frankfurt_Stock_Exchange) , and the residual 2% have been held by the company. 15% of the shares are owned by the Marzotto family. [64] (#cite_note-64) Lahrs left the Group in 2016 and the former CFO Mark Langer was appointed as the new CEO in mid-May. [54] (#cite_note-:12-54) In the same year, Coty (/wiki/Coty) took over the perfume licenses for Hugo Boss from Procter & Gamble (/wiki/Procter_%26_Gamble) . A realignment took place shortly afterwards. As a result, the Boss Orange and Boss Green lines were discontinued, and only the Boss and Hugo brands remained active. Furthermore, the company's own global prices were adjusted, while unprofitable stores were closed, existing ones modernized and the e-commerce (/wiki/E-commerce) business was expanded. [65] (#cite_note-:13-65) [66] (#cite_note-66) In 2017, Hugo Boss was also included in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index (/wiki/Dow_Jones_Sustainability_Indices) for the first time. In the same year, the sales of Hugo Boss climbed by 7% during the final quarter of the year. [67] (#cite_note-67) In 2020, Mike Ashley's (/wiki/Mike_Ashley_(businessman)) British Frasers Group (/wiki/Frasers_Group) acquired a stake of around 5% in Hugo Boss. [68] (#cite_note-68) This stake was reduced to 2.63% by February 2023, but Ashley has access to a further 24.69% via financial instruments (/wiki/Financial_instrument) . [69] (#cite_note-69) In June 2021, Daniel Grieder (/wiki/Daniel_Grieder) took over as CEO of Hugo Boss. [54] (#cite_note-:12-54) Under his direction, the growth strategy Claim 5 was introduced, with the objective of improving the consumer journey and product offerings, increasing relevance, and driving growth across all geographical regions. This strategy is intended to ensure the sustainable growth of the company. [70] (#cite_note-:2-70) [71] (#cite_note-71) [72] (#cite_note-72) In the same year, Daniel Grieder set the goal of achieving a revenue of 4 billion euros by 2025. [70] (#cite_note-:2-70) As this revenue target was reached two years earlier, Hugo Boss increased the revenue target for 2025 to 5 billion euros in June 2023. [73] (#cite_note-73) In 2022, Marco Falcioni was appointed Creative Director. [74] (#cite_note-74) The same year, Hugo Boss invested in the start-up (/wiki/Startup_company) Heiq Aeoniq LLC, which is developing the cellulose fabric Heiq Aeoniq. In 2023, the fiber was first used in the company's textiles. [75] (#cite_note-:19-75) In order to meet increased demands, the Group invested 100 million euros in a new distribution building at the Bonlanden (/wiki/Bonlanden) -Filderstadt site near Stuttgart (/wiki/Stuttgart) in the same year. The investments were in digitalization and automation, and robotics applications. [76] (#cite_note-76) [77] (#cite_note-77) In June 2023, Hugo Boss opened the Hugo Boss Digital Campus in Gondomar, Portugal (/wiki/Gondomar,_Portugal) . [78] (#cite_note-78) Products and business units [ edit ] Boss Bottled , a fragrance launched in 1998 [79] (#cite_note-79) Since 2017, Hugo Boss has pursued a two-brand strategy, with the core brand Boss (stylized as BOSS) for upscale business and leisure wear and Hugo (stylized as HUGO) for a young target group. [65] (#cite_note-:13-65) [80] (#cite_note-80) [81] (#cite_note-:14-81) The company has additional licensing agreements with Coty (/wiki/Coty) , C.W.F. (/wiki/Children_Worldwide_Fashion_SAS) , Movado (/wiki/Movado) and Safilo (/wiki/Safilo) for product collaborations. [82] (#cite_note-82) [83] (#cite_note-83) [84] (#cite_note-84) [85] (#cite_note-85) Hugo Boss is active in the following segments: Boss: The core brand Boss and its sub-brands Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss Camel offer business clothing and leisurewear ranging from classic to fashionable and casual-sporty. [44] (#cite_note-:10-44) [81] (#cite_note-:14-81) The brand offers women's and men's clothing and is aimed at an older target group ( millennials (/wiki/Millennials) ). [86] (#cite_note-:15-86) [87] (#cite_note-:16-87) In 2022, Boss Womenswear accounted for 10% of the company's total sales. [88] (#cite_note-88) Hugo: The Hugo brand began producing fashion for men in 1993, followed by fashion for women ( Hugo Womenswear ) in 1998. [44] (#cite_note-:10-44) [81] (#cite_note-:14-81) The brand is now aimed at Generation Z (/wiki/Generation_Z) across all genders (/wiki/Gender) . [86] (#cite_note-:15-86) [87] (#cite_note-:16-87) In February 2024, Hugo Boss introduced another brand line called Hugo Blue with clothing made from denim and other fabrics. [89] (#cite_note-89) [90] (#cite_note-90) Children's clothing: Collections for children have been available since 2008, initially under the Boss Orange brand. In 2009, the license for children's clothing was awarded to C.W.F. Children Worldwide Fashion SAS (/wiki/Children_Worldwide_Fashion_SAS) . [91] (#cite_note-91) [92] (#cite_note-92) Children's clothing was initially produced exclusively under the Boss brand; since 2022 also under the Hugo brand. [93] (#cite_note-93) Shoes: Hugo Boss has been producing shoes since 1995. Initially, MH Shoes & Accessories was a licensee, but since 2004 the Group has been producing the shoes in-house under their Boss and Hugo brands. [94] (#cite_note-94) Fragrances: Perfumes (/wiki/Perfume) , creams (/wiki/Cream) , deodorants (/wiki/Deodorant) and shower gels (/wiki/Shower_gel) for men and women are offered under the names Boss and Hugo . The first Boss perfume, the men's fragrance Hugo Boss, which was renamed Boss Number One in 1998, is still continued. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) Eyewear and watches: The company has been producing eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) under license since 1989 and watches (/wiki/Watch) since 1996. [95] (#cite_note-95) Home textiles: In 2011, the Boss Home collection of bed linen (/wiki/Bedding) , towelling (/wiki/Terrycloth) and other home textiles was also produced under license, presented at a trade fair and subsequently marketed. [96] (#cite_note-96) Riding apparel: Since August 2023, Hugo Boss has had riding apparel produced by Bold Equestrian Ltd. under the Boss Equestrian brand. [97] (#cite_note-97) Writing instruments: Hugo Boss also has writing instruments manufactured under license. [98] (#cite_note-98) Dog accessories: The company has been producing accessories for dogs under license since 2022. [99] (#cite_note-99) Tourism industry (/wiki/Tourism) : early 2024 the company has taken over a luxury rental villa in Balinese (/wiki/Bali) Canggu (/wiki/Canggu) , an area undergoing frenetic tourism development. Their high-paying clients receive Boss-labelled merchandises as freebies. [100] (#cite_note-balisun_may24-100) Products are manufactured in a variety of locations, including the company's own production sites in: Metzingen (/wiki/Metzingen) , Germany (/wiki/Germany) ; Morrovalle, Italy (/wiki/Morrovalle) ; Radom (/wiki/Radom) , Poland (/wiki/Poland) ; İzmir (/wiki/%C4%B0zmir) , Turkey (/wiki/Turkey) ; and Cleveland (/wiki/Cleveland) , United States (/wiki/United_States) . [101] (#cite_note-101) Hugo Boss has invested in technology for its made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) program, using machines for almost all tailoring (/wiki/Tailor) traditionally done by hand. [102] (#cite_note-102) In 2020, Hugo Boss created its first vegan men's suit, using all non-animal materials, dyes, and chemicals. [103] (#cite_note-103) Shareholders and stock exchange [ edit ] The Hugo Boss shares have been included in the MDAX (/wiki/MDAX) since March 1999. [104] (#cite_note-104) Until June 2012, the share capital (/wiki/Share_capital) was divided into common (/wiki/Common_stock) and preferred stock (/wiki/Preferred_stock) . On June 15, 2012, after the close of trading, the preference shares were converted into ordinary shares and all shares were converted into registered shares (/wiki/Registered_share) . [105] (#cite_note-105) Since then, the company's share capital has consisted of around 70.4 million no-par value registered ordinary shares. [106] (#cite_note-106) In 2023, a promissory bill loan with a total value of €175 million was placed for the first time. [107] (#cite_note-107) As at March 2024, the shareholder structure was as follows: [108] (#cite_note-108) Free float: 83.00% Marzotto family (via PFC S.r.l. / Zignago Holding S.p.A): 15.00% Treasury shares: 2.00% Marketing [ edit ] As early as the 1980s, Hugo Boss began with product placements and the outfitting of celebrities (/wiki/Celebrity) . Among other things, Hugo Boss outfitted the actors of the popular US (/wiki/United_States) law series L.A. Law (/wiki/L.A._Law) and was henceforth seen as the outfitter of yuppies (/wiki/Yuppie) . [109] (#cite_note-109) Hugo Boss dressed the leading actors Don Johnson (/wiki/Don_Johnson) and Philip Michael Thomas (/wiki/Philip_Michael_Thomas) in the crime series Miami Vice (/wiki/Miami_Vice) . [22] (#cite_note-:17-22) Other well-known personalities wore Boss outfits at the time, such as Michael Jackson (/wiki/Michael_Jackson) , who wore a white Boss suit on the album cover of Thriller (/wiki/Thriller_(album)) , [110] (#cite_note-110) or Sylvester Stallone (/wiki/Sylvester_Stallone) , who wore a Boss sweater as Rocky (/wiki/Rocky_Balboa) . [111] (#cite_note-111) [112] (#cite_note-112) From 1996 to 2022, Hugo Boss AG sponsored the Hugo Boss Prize (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_Prize) , an annual $100,000 stipend in modern arts, awarded by the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation (/wiki/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Foundation) every two years as a cultural sponsor, and supported international contemporary exhibitions (/wiki/Exhibition) . [113] (#cite_note-113) In collaboration with the Staatliche Modeschule Stuttgart , the company has presented the Hugo Boss Fashion Award to fashion students since 1987. [114] (#cite_note-114) In February 2024, a fashion collection designed by supermodel Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) was introduced. [115] (#cite_note-115) Social commitment [ edit ] Hugo Boss has been a partner of the child protection organization UNICEF (/wiki/UNICEF) since 2007. [116] (#cite_note-116) In addition, the Group established the Hugo Boss Foundation , whose main source of income is the "Every purchase counts" initiative. Since 2023, 5 cents of every own product (excluding licensed products) have been donated through this initiative. The donations are intended to support local, regional and global impact-oriented projects, particularly in the fields of climate and environmental protection. [117] (#cite_note-117) In 2023, for example, the foundation was involved in the crisis areas affected by earthquakes in Turkey and Syria (/wiki/2023_Turkey%E2%80%93Syria_earthquakes) . [118] (#cite_note-118) Sustainability [ edit ] In 2016, Hugo Boss became a member of the ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals), which is committed to avoiding harmful substances in production. [119] (#cite_note-119) Since 2017, Hugo Boss has been working on its own contribution to the successful implementation of the UN (/wiki/United_Nations) Sustainable Development Goals (/wiki/Sustainable_Development_Goals) . [120] (#cite_note-120) Furthermore, Hugo Boss was part of the Sustainability 2030 science platform initiated by the German government (/wiki/Cabinet_of_Germany) [121] (#cite_note-121) and joined the Klimabündnis Baden-Württemberg in 2024. [122] (#cite_note-122) Sustainability is also part of the Claim 5 strategy implemented by Grieder. As part of this, the resale website Hugo Boss Pre-Loved was launched in 2022, which pursues a circular economy (/wiki/Circular_economy) . [123] (#cite_note-123) The investment in the start-up Heiq Aeoniq LLC supports the development of its cellulose fiber Heiq Aeoniq, which is intended to replace chemical fibers such as polyester (/wiki/Polyester) . Heiq Aeoniq LLC primarily sources its materials from discarded algae (/wiki/Algae) , sugarcane (/wiki/Sugarcane) , straw (/wiki/Straw) , hemp (/wiki/Hemp) , nutshells (/wiki/Nutshell) , cigarette butts (/wiki/Cigarette) , and coffee grounds (/wiki/Coffee_preparation) . [75] (#cite_note-:19-75) [124] (#cite_note-124) [125] (#cite_note-125) At the Hugo Boss Digital Campus, data is processed to make company processes more efficient and to thus improve determination of the demand for products, thereby avoiding the overproduction of clothing. Structures are also being created to better track supply chains. This is in line with the Supply Chain Act (/wiki/Supply_Chain_Act) , which aims to ensure compliance with environmental and social standards. The company has also announced its intention to become CO2-neutral by 2050. [126] (#cite_note-126) Since December 2023, Hugo Boss has been the first company to invest in Collateral Good Ventures Fashion I, a climate-related venture capital (/wiki/Venture_capital) fund aimed at promoting sustainability in the fashion industry. [127] (#cite_note-127) Compliance [ edit ] The company has introduced structures to ensure compliance. In this context, it works with the Fair Labor Association (/wiki/Fair_Labor_Association) , has established an ombudsman (/wiki/Ombudsman) system, has social audits (/wiki/Audit) carried out on working conditions and offers the opportunity to use the Fair Labor Association's comprehensive external and anonymous complaints management system. [128] (#cite_note-128) Controversies [ edit ] Russell Brand [ edit ] British comedian and actor Russell Brand (/wiki/Russell_Brand) was at the 2013 GQ awards, which were sponsored by Hugo Boss. After receiving an award on stage, Brand proceeded to talk about Hugo Boss's Nazi connection and did a goose step (/wiki/Goose_step) . He was later ejected from the ceremony and later apologized. [129] (#cite_note-129) Wages [ edit ] In March 2010, Hugo Boss was boycotted by actor Danny Glover (/wiki/Danny_Glover) for the company's plans to close the plant in Brooklyn, Ohio (/wiki/Brooklyn,_Ohio) , US after 375 employees of the Workers United Union reportedly rejected the Hugo Boss proposal to cut the workers' hourly wage 36% from $13 an hour to $8.30. After an initial statement by CFO Andreas Stockert saying the company had a responsibility to shareholders and would move suit manufacturing from the US to other facilities in Turkey, Bulgaria and Romania, [130] (#cite_note-NBC_News_2010_v440-130) the company capitulated to the boycott and cancelled the project. Renewed plans to close the plant in April 2015 also failed. [131] (#cite_note-131) [132] (#cite_note-132) Mirror fall [ edit ] In September 2015, Hugo Boss (UK) was fined £1.2 million in relation to the death in June 2013 of a child who died four days after suffering fatal head injuries at its store in Bicester (/wiki/Bicester) , Oxfordshire. [133] (#cite_note-BBC_News_4_September_2015-133) The four-year-old boy had been injured when a steel-framed fitting-room mirror weighing 120 kilograms (260 lb) fell on him. Oxford Crown Court (/wiki/Oxford_Crown_Court) had earlier been told that it had "negligently been left free-standing without any fixings" [133] (#cite_note-BBC_News_4_September_2015-133) and the coroner had said that the death was an "accident waiting to happen". [134] (#cite_note-BBC_News_3_June_2015-134) In June 2015, Hugo Boss (UK) had admitted its breach of both the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 (/wiki/Health_and_Safety_at_Work_etc._Act_1974) and Management of Health and Safety at Work regulations 1999. [135] (#cite_note-The_Guardian_3_September_2015-135) The company's legal representative said: "The consequence of this failing is as awful as one could reasonably imagine. Since the day of the accident Hugo Boss has done all it can, first to acknowledge those failings, to express genuine, heartfelt remorse and also demonstrate a determination to put things right and ensure there cannot be a repeat of what went wrong." — Jonathan Laidlaw QC (representing Hugo Boss) [135] (#cite_note-The_Guardian_3_September_2015-135) Trademark [ edit ] In August 2019, Hugo Boss sent a cease and desist (/wiki/Cease_and_desist) letter, objecting to the trademark application of Boss Brewing (/wiki/Boss_Brewing) , a small brewery based in Swansea (/wiki/Swansea) , [136] (#cite_note-136) costing the brewery nearly £10,000 in legal fees and compelling them to change the name of several beer brands. Similarly, in November 2023, it was reported that Hugo Boss had sent a cease and desist letter to Canadian (/wiki/Canadian) fitness company Boss Athletics Inc. [137] (#cite_note-137) In February 2020, professedly as a protest, comedian Joe Lycett (/wiki/Joe_Lycett) changed his legal name to Hugo Boss. [138] (#cite_note-138) Cotton from Xinjiang [ edit ] In 2020, Hugo Boss told NBC News (/wiki/NBC_News) it did not use cotton from the Xinjiang (/wiki/Xinjiang) area of China (/wiki/China) to avoid Uyghur forced labor (/wiki/Xinjiang_re-education_camps#Forced_labor) . [139] (#cite_note-nbcn_Major_brands-139) However, in 2021, the Chinese subsidiary of Hugo Boss stated on its official Sina Weibo (/wiki/Sina_Weibo) account that they had been using cotton from the region and would continue to do so: [140] (#cite_note-:3-140) "Xinjiang's long-stapled cotton is one of the best in the world. We believe top quality raw materials will definitely show its value. We will continue to purchase and support Xinjiang cotton." [141] (#cite_note-141) The statement was later edited to simply saying they have partners "in various regions of China" with a link to an English-language page on their website, which in turn linked to another statement containing the following words: "Hugo Boss has not procured any goods originating in the Xinjiang region from direct suppliers." [142] (#cite_note-:5-142) Initially attracting thousands of likes (/wiki/Like_button) , the edited Weibo post received many comments accusing the brand of hypocrisy (/wiki/Hypocrisy) . [143] (#cite_note-143) [144] (#cite_note-scmp_Hugo_Boss-144) A company spokeswoman stated that the original Weibo post was unauthorized and that the company's position has not changed. [145] (#cite_note-145) According to the company's official statement, all materials are only sourced from suppliers that comply with the Hugo Boss Supplier Code of Conduct. [142] (#cite_note-:5-142) In September 2021, the European Center for Constitutional and Human Rights (/wiki/European_Center_for_Constitutional_and_Human_Rights) filed a complaint with German prosecutors accusing Hugo Boss of abetting and profiting from forced labor in Xinjiang. [146] (#cite_note-146) In 2022, researchers from Nordhausen University of Applied Sciences (/wiki/Nordhausen_University_of_Applied_Sciences) identified cotton from Xinjiang in Hugo Boss shirts. [147] (#cite_note-147) Sponsorships [ edit ] In the field of sports sponsorships, Hugo Boss has been active in motorsport (/wiki/Motorsport) , golf (/wiki/Golf) , association football (/wiki/Association_football) , sailing (/wiki/Sailing_(sport)) , tennis (/wiki/Tennis) , and winter sports (/wiki/Winter_sports) . [148] (#cite_note-148) [149] (#cite_note-149) [150] (#cite_note-150) The company's activities began in the 1970s with the support of racing driver Jochen Mass (/wiki/Jochen_Mass) , [151] (#cite_note-151) and were further expanded in motorsport through the sponsorship of the McLaren (/wiki/McLaren) Formula 1 team from 1981 to 2014, [152] (#cite_note-152) one of the longest partnerships in motorsport. [28] (#cite_note-:18-28) [153] (#cite_note-153) This led to several drivers being outfitted with Hugo Boss clothing, including Alain Prost (/wiki/Alain_Prost) , Ayrton Senna (/wiki/Ayrton_Senna) , and Niki Lauda (/wiki/Niki_Lauda) . [154] (#cite_note-154) Boss has been the official clothing partner of the Aston Martin F1 (/wiki/Aston_Martin_in_Formula_One) team since July 2022. One year later, Boss also appointed Aston Martin driver Fernando Alonso (/wiki/Fernando_Alonso) as a brand ambassador. [155] (#cite_note-155) In 2024, Boss signs a partnership with David Beckham. (/wiki/David_Beckham) [156] (#cite_note-156) [157] (#cite_note-157) [158] (#cite_note-158) Athletics [ edit ] Players [ edit ] Alica Schmidt (/wiki/Alica_Schmidt) Ski [ edit ] Races [ edit ] Hahnenkamm Races (/wiki/Hahnenkamm_Races) in Kitzbühel (/wiki/Kitzb%C3%BChel) Tennis [ edit ] Tournaments [ edit ] Stuttgart Open (/wiki/Stuttgart_Open) (since 2022 Boss Open) Players [ edit ] Matteo Berrettini (/wiki/Matteo_Berrettini) (global ambassador) (from 2022) Taylor Fritz (/wiki/Taylor_Fritz) Formula One [ edit ] Teams [ edit ] McLaren (/wiki/McLaren) (1987–2014) Mercedes-Benz (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_in_Formula_One) (2015–2018) Aston Martin (/wiki/Aston_Martin_in_Formula_One) (2022–2025) [159] (#cite_note-159) RB (/wiki/RB_Formula_One_Team) (2024–) Drivers [ edit ] Jochen Mass (/wiki/Jochen_Mass) Alain Prost (/wiki/Alain_Prost) Mika Häkkinen (/wiki/Mika_H%C3%A4kkinen) Ayrton Senna (/wiki/Ayrton_Senna) Niki Lauda (/wiki/Niki_Lauda) Cycling [ edit ] Teams [ edit ] Red Bull–Bora–Hansgrohe (/wiki/Bora%E2%80%93Hansgrohe) (2024–) [160] (#cite_note-160) See also [ edit ] Hugo Boss Prize (/wiki/Hugo_Boss_Prize) List of companies involved in the Holocaust (/wiki/List_of_companies_involved_in_the_Holocaust) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Managing Board)" (https://group.hugoboss.com/en/company/management/managing-board) . group.hugoboss.com . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h "Hugo Boss Annual Report 2023" (https://annualreport-2023.hugoboss.com/_assets/downloads/entire-hb-ar23.pdf) (PDF) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Edwards, Kinga (October 19, 2023). "Fashion ranking: Top 20 clothing retailers in Germany" (https://ecommercegermany.com/blog/fashion-ranking-top-20-clothing-retailers-in-germany) . E-commerce Germany News . Retrieved March 11, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "MDAX Stocks" (https://markets.businessinsider.com/index/components/mdax) . Business Insider (/wiki/Business_Insider) . Retrieved November 25, 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Hugo Boss: Von Socken bis Parfuems". Wirtschaftswoche (/wiki/Wirtschaftswoche) (in German). Vol. 51. December 12, 1986. p. 52. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Roman, Köster (2011). Hugo Boss, 1924–1945: Die Geschichte einer Kleiderfabrik zwischen Weimarer Republik und "Drittem Reich" (in German) . Germany: C. H. Beck (/wiki/C._H._Beck) . p. 31. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3406619922 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_7-0) Landler, Mark (April 12, 2005). "A Small Town in Germany Fits Hugo Boss Nicely" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/12/business/worldbusiness/a-small-town-in-germany-fits-hugo-boss-nicely.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . p. C00001 . Retrieved March 11, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Köster, Roman (2011). Hugo Boss, 1924–1945. Die Geschichte einer Kleiderfabrik zwischen Weimarer Republik und „Drittem Reich“ . München: C.H. Beck. p. 10. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-406-61992-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Hugo Ferdinand Boss – Biografie" (https://whoswho.de/bio/hugo-ferdinand-boss.html) . Who's who (/wiki/Who%27s_who_(UK)) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Timm, Elisabeth (April 12, 2018). "Hugo Ferdinand Boss (1885–1948) und die Firma Hugo Boss" (http://www.metzingen-zwangsarbeit.de/hugo_boss.pdf) (PDF) . Metzingen Zwangsarbeit (in German) . Retrieved April 12, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Höhne, Heinz (1976). Der Orden unter dem Totenkopf: Die Geschichte der SS (in German). Bertelsmann Verlag. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-570-05019-4 . ^ Jump up to: a b Obermaier, Frederik (September 23, 2011). "Mode mit brauner Vergangenheit" (https://www.sueddeutsche.de/wirtschaft/nazi-vergangenheit-von-hugo-boss-braune-hemden-1.1146339) . Süddeutsche (/wiki/S%C3%BCddeutsche) (in German) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Köster, Roman (2011). Hugo Boss, 1924–1945. Die Geschichte einer Kleiderfabrik zwischen Weimarer Republik und „Drittem Reich“ (in German). München: C. H. Beck. p. 41. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-406-61992-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Obermaier, Frederik (September 23, 2011). "Hugo Boss in der NS-Zeit – Mode mit brauner Vergangenheit" (http://www.sueddeutsche.de/wirtschaft/nazi-vergangenheit-von-hugo-boss-braune-hemden-1.1146339) . Süddeutsche Zeitung (/wiki/S%C3%BCddeutsche_Zeitung) (in German) . Retrieved April 12, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_15-0) Köster, Roman. "Hugo Boss, 1924–1945. A Clothing Factory During the Weimar Republic and Third Reich" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111108165733/http://group.hugoboss.com/files/Study_on_the_Companys_History_Abridged_Verson_en_final.pdf) (PDF) . Hugo Boss . Archived from the original (http://group.hugoboss.com/files/Study_on_the_Companys_History_Abridged_Verson_en_final.pdf) (PDF) on November 8, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Hugo Boss im Dritten Reich: Verstrickt, aber nicht "Hitlers Schneider" (https://www.welt.de/print/die_welt/wirtschaft/article13621080/Hugo-Boss-im-Dritten-Reich-Verstrickt-aber-nicht-Hitlers-Schneider.html) " (https://www.welt.de/print/die_welt/wirtschaft/article13621080/Hugo-Boss-im-Dritten-Reich-Verstrickt-aber-nicht-Hitlers-Schneider.html) . Die Welt (/wiki/Die_Welt) (in German). November 22, 2011 . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Köster Roman, Heise Katrin. "Historiker: Hugo Boss hat nachweislich vom Nationalsozialismus profitiert" (https://www.deutschlandfunkkultur.de/historiker-hugo-boss-hat-nachweislich-vom-100.html) . Deutschlandfunk Kultur (/wiki/Deutschlandfunk_Kultur) (in German) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Kober_18-0) Kober, Henning (July 29, 2001). "Über den Umgang mit Zwangsarbeiterinnen bei Boss" (http://www.metzingen-zwangsarbeit.de/Zwangsarbeit_in_Metzingen.doc) . Metzinger Zwangsarbeit (in German) . Retrieved January 1, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Köster, Roman (2011). Hugo Boss, 1924–1945. Die Geschichte einer Kleiderfabrik zwischen Weimarer Republik und „Drittem Reich“ . München: C.H. Beck. pp. 96–99. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-406-61992-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Lipmann, Jennifer (September 22, 2011). "Hugo Boss: 'regret' for Holocaust record" (https://www.thejc.com/news/world/hugo-boss-regret-for-holocaust-record-fjdasz13) . The Jewish Chronicle (/wiki/The_Jewish_Chronicle) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Köster, Roman (2011). Hugo Boss, 1924–1945. Die Geschichte einer Kleiderfabrik zwischen Weimarer Republik und „Drittem Reich“ . München: C.H. Beck. p. 101. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-406-61992-2 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Hugo Boss" (https://www.brandslex.de/markenlexikon/cover/h/markenlexikon-hugo-boss) . Brandslex . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Alexander, Charles P.; Mondi, Lawrence; Wolf, Uwe (October 9, 1984). "A Boss Look for the Boardroom". Times Magazine (/wiki/Times_Magazine) . Vol. 11. ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Mekka Metzingen". Textilwirtschaft (in German). Vol. 11/2019. March 14, 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-25) Bogen, Uwe (October 21, 2022). "50 Jahre Outlet City Metzingen: „La Dolce Vita" bei Promi-Party in harter Zeit" (https://www.stuttgarter-nachrichten.de/inhalt.50-jahre-outlet-city-metzingen-la-dolce-vita-bei-promi-party-in-harter-zeit.fbfe4cef-1a5b-4d7f-9427-8e68b489a49e.html) . 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"Britischer Einzelhändler Frasers Group steigt bei Hugo Boss ein" (https://fashionunited.de/nachrichten/business/britischer-einzelhaendler-frasers-group-steigt-bei-hugo-boss-ein/2020061535962) . FashionUnited (/wiki/FashionUnited) (in German) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Release according to Article 40, Section 1 of the WpHG [the German Securities Trading Act] with the objective of Europe-wide distribution" (https://www.eqs-news.com/de/news/pvr/hugo-boss-ag-release-according-to-article-40-section-1-of-the-wphg-the-german-securities-trading-act-with-the-objective-of-europe-wide-distribution/1758397) . EQS News . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Shearsmith, Tom (August 4, 2021). "Hugo Boss presents new growth strategy to double sales to €4 billion by 2025" (https://www.theindustry.fashion/hugo-boss-presents-new-growth-strategy-to-double-sales-to-e4-billion-by-2025/) . The Industry Fashion . 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"Ausbau des Logistikzentrums: Hugo Boss investiert 100 Mio. Euro in Filderstadt" (https://www.textilwirtschaft.de/business/news/ausbau-des-logistikzentrums-hugo-boss-investiert-100-mio.-euro-in-filderstadt-242350) . Textilwirtschaft (in German) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-77) Gräfe, Daniel (October 26, 2023). "Ausbau des Logistikzentrums: Hugo Boss will in Filderstadt bis zu 300 Jobs schaffen" (https://www.stuttgarter-nachrichten.de/inhalt.ausbau-des-logistikzentrums-hugo-boss-will-in-filderstadt-bis-zu-350-jobs-schaffen.dabbed68-d058-4948-b408-538b3547ee9a.html) . Stuttgarter Nachrichten (/wiki/Stuttgarter_Nachrichten) (in German) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-78) Knieps, Stephan (June 15, 2023). "Hugo Boss mit Rekordzahlen: Der Trick hinter Hugo Boss' neuem Höhenflug" (https://www.wiwo.de/unternehmen/handel/hugo-boss-mit-rekordzahlen-der-trick-hinter-hugo-boss-neuem-hoehenflug/29207746.html) . Wirtschaftswoche (/wiki/Wirtschaftswoche) (in German) . 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(https://www.welt.de/motor/boote-yachten/article111887786/Und-wenn-Segelprofi-Alex-Thomson-auf-See-stirbt.html) . Die Welt (/wiki/Die_Welt) (in German). February 19, 2013 . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-151) Holmes, Elena (November 10, 2017). "Report: Hugo Boss to move from Formula One to Formula E" (https://www.sportspromedia.com/news/report-hugo-boss-to-move-from-formula-one-to-formula-e/) . SportsPro (/wiki/SportsPro) . Retrieved March 11, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-152) "Hugo Boss to leave McLaren for Mercedes" (https://timesofmalta.com/article/Hugo-Boss-to-leave-McLaren-for-Mercedes.526664) . Times of Malta (/wiki/Times_of_Malta) . July 7, 2014 . Retrieved March 11, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-153) Cooper, Adam (July 6, 2014). "McLaren und Hugo Boss: Aus nach 33 Jahren!" (https://www.speedweek.com/formel1/news/59629/McLaren-und-Hugo-Boss-Aus-nach-33-Jahren.html) . Speedweek (in German) . Retrieved November 27, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-154) Teo, Annabelle (May 30, 2011). "Dress a Formula One Driver with Hugo Boss and McLaren" (https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/dress-a-formula-one-driver-with-hugo-boss-and-mclaren) . Tatler Asia (/wiki/Tatler) . Retrieved March 11, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-155) Stephens, Cassidy (July 24, 2023). "Boss names Fernando Alonso brand ambassador with sports clearly key for label" (https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Boss-names-fernando-alonso-brand-ambassador-with-sports-clearly-key-for-label,1539571.html) . Fashion Network . Retrieved March 11, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-156) "David Beckham va imaginer des collections de mode homme pour Hugo Boss" (https://www.gqmagazine.fr/article/david-beckham-hugo-boss-nomination-mode-homme) . GQ France . Retrieved May 21, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-157) "Hugo Boss signe une collaboration à long terme avec David Beckham" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/hugo-boss-collaboration-david-beckham-mode) . Journal du Luxe . 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Military uniform "Battle dress" redirects here. For other uses, see Battle dress (disambiguation) (/wiki/Battle_dress_(disambiguation)) . Not to be confused with body armor (/wiki/Body_armor) or military uniform (/wiki/Military_uniform) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Combat_uniform) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Combat uniform" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Combat+uniform%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Combat+uniform%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Combat+uniform%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Combat+uniform%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Combat+uniform%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Combat+uniform%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( November 2011 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Military service members of different nationalities wearing a variety of combat uniforms in 2013. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A combat uniform , also called field uniform , battledress or military fatigues , is a casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) type of uniform (/wiki/Uniform) used by military (/wiki/Military) , police (/wiki/Police) , fire (/wiki/Firefighter) and other public uniformed services (/wiki/Uniformed_services) for everyday fieldwork and combat duty purposes, as opposed to dress uniforms (/wiki/Dress_uniform) worn in functions and parades. It generally consists of a jacket (/wiki/Jacket) , trousers (/wiki/Trousers) and shirt (/wiki/Shirt) or T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) , all cut to be looser and more comfortable than more formal uniforms. Design may depend on regiment (/wiki/Regiment) or service branch (/wiki/Service_branch) , e.g. army (/wiki/Army) , navy (/wiki/Navy) , air force (/wiki/Air_force) , marines (/wiki/Marines) , etc. In the army branches, fabrics tend to come in camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) , disruptive pattern (/wiki/Disruptive_pattern) or else green, brown or khaki (/wiki/Khaki) monochrome (/wiki/Monochrome) , in order to approximate the background and make the soldier less visible in nature. In Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) , field uniform is considered equivalent to civilian (/wiki/Civilian) casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) . As such, field uniform is considered less formal than service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) , generally aimed at office or staff use, as well as mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) , and full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) . The British Indian Army (/wiki/British_Indian_Army) in the mid 19th century were the first to use drab cotton uniforms for battle; [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) they were first worn by the Corps of Guides (/wiki/Corps_of_Guides_(British_India)) in 1848 where the colour of drab light-brown uniform was called khaki (/wiki/Khaki_(colour)) by Indian troops. The first purpose-made and widely issued contemporary military camouflage (/wiki/Military_camouflage) fabric was for half-shelters by the Italian Army (/wiki/Italian_Army) after the First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) . Germany (/wiki/Germany) was the first to use such shelter fabric for uniforms for their paratroopers (/wiki/Fallschirmj%C3%A4ger) , and by the war's end both various German as well as the older Italian fabric was widely used for camouflage uniforms. [3] (#cite_note-3) Most nations developed camouflage uniforms during the Second World War (/wiki/Second_World_War) , initially only issued to "elite" units and then gradually to all armed forces. Terminology [ edit ] In British English, battledress is often the preferred name. In American English (/wiki/American_English) , the term fatigues has often been used by the Army, or "utilities" by the Marines, originally being a term for work uniforms. Now, the term BDUs ("battle dress uniforms") is the more often-used term. Combat uniform by country [ edit ] Australia [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Australian Army (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Australian_Army) An Australian soldier wearing the Australian Multicam Camouflage Uniform (/wiki/Australian_Multicam_Camouflage_Uniform) while firing his rifle Australia generally followed British-style uniforms for its Armed forces, however did not adopt British Battledress during World War II, unlike other Commonwealth countries. Instead Australia continued to use a slightly updated version of the uniform worn during World War I. This uniform was also worn into the Korean War. Following service with the 28th Commonwealth Division in Malaya and Borneo, Australia adopted "Jungle Greens" for all field wear eventually modifying the uniform during the Vietnam War with slanted pockets and with the blouse to be worn outside of the trousers, similar to U.S. "Jungle fatigues" (the forerunner of the U.S. Battle Dress Uniform (/wiki/Battle_Dress_Uniform) ) which also first appeared in Vietnam. The modified JGs were colloquially called the "Pixie suit." JGs were worn through the 1970s and until the adoption of Australia's own camouflage pattern called Disruptive Pattern Combat Uniform (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Combat_Uniform) (more commonly called DPCU or Auscam) introduced from 1982. There was also multiple patterns based off DPCU, including the Disruptive Pattern Desert Uniform, and a red/white version for OPFOR teams during combat exercises The Australian Defence Force has, as of 2014, introduced the Australian Multicam Camouflage Uniform (/wiki/Australian_Multicam_Camouflage_Uniform) (AMCU) for Army and Air Force personnel engaged in warlike activities, and for Air Force field exercises. There is two main variants of AMCU available to AA and RAAF troops, the Field Uniform, the standard uniform cut seen since LAND125 Phase 4. It features 2 breast pockets, an epaulette on the chest, a pocket on either upper sleeve (where a unit patch and flag are attached with hook and loop fasteners), two front trouser pockets, 2 side zip pockets and a pocket to slip in kneepads. The AMCU Field variant is worn by the army as barracks dress. The second variation is the AMCU Combat Uniform. It features a knitted section around the torso for breathability under body armour, and 2 slanted sleeve pockets along with reduced amounts of pockets on the trousers to increase dexterity and breathability. Canada [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Canadian Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Canadian_Armed_Forces) This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Combat_uniform) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( May 2012 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Canadian soldiers in service dress during the First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) The first true battledress adopted by Canada for standard issue across the board was the khaki field uniform known as Service Dress, adopted in 1907. This was of a separate pattern from the British Service Dress adopted after the Boer War, and marked a departure in Canadian uniforms in that it was distinct from the scarlet/blue/rifle green uniforms traditionally worn to that point, the latter of which became "ceremonial" dress for parades and other functions apart from field training. Until well into the Cold War era, the Canadian Army had worn battle dress uniforms similar to their British and Commonwealth counterparts, though with different national identifiers and regimental accoutrements (with Khaki Drill uniforms being worn in the summer or in tropical regions). In the early 1950s, battle dress began to be replaced with lightweight uniforms, at first Bush Dress for summer wear, and in the 1960s with a new combat dress, a set of olive drab garments more similar to the American style of combat wear (i.e. made up of layers and solely for wear in the field as opposed to all-purpose wool Battle Dress). Service Dress (1907–1940) [ edit ] Canadian pattern Service Dress worn by other ranks did not stand up to the rigors of campaigning, however, and was widely replaced by British uniforms in France; some samples of Canadian pattern SD were retained in Canada, and after the war, surviving to be issued briefly in 1939. Officers wore a distinctive pattern of Service Dress (as did Warrant Officers I Class), which was identical to that worn by British officers; they were privately purchased, and of better quality than other ranks uniform. In combat in France and Flanders, they were often replaced on an individual basis by other ranks' Service Dress, making the officer less conspicuous to enemy snipers and soldiers. Khaki Drill (1900–1949) [ edit ] A Canadian contingent in Hong Kong (/wiki/Hong_Kong) wearing Khaki Drill (/wiki/Khaki_Drill) uniform Khaki Drill (/wiki/Khaki_Drill) was a series of different uniform patterns of light khaki cloth, generally cotton, first worn by Canadian soldiers in the Boer War and reserved for summer training in Canada, or for employment in tropical climates. Canada developed its own pattern after the First World War, and the uniform was commonly worn in Canada, with officers again having the option of finer garments privately purchased. In the Second World War, Canadians serving in Jamaica and Hong Kong wore Canadian pattern KD; the I Canadian Corps troops in Italy wore KD supplied in theatre by the British, generally of British, Indian or US (War Aid) manufacture. [ citation needed ] Worn in tropics far beyond 1949. KD was still in issue and worn with either short or long trousers as parade dress. Jacket was replaced with shirt for normal barrack dress wear. Worn by all British units in Kenya until Dec 1964. Also in issue and worn by British Honduras Garrison and attached Infantry Company Group until at least 1968. Battle Dress (1939–1970) [ edit ] In 1939, the Battle Dress uniform was adopted as a field uniform; made of wool and patterned after British BD, Canadian uniforms were darker in color with a distinctive green tinge to the dark khaki color. Officers had the option of having BD tailored from better material, but in the field most wore "off the rack" BD, perhaps with a modified open collar. [ citation needed ] Members of the Sherbrooke Fusiliers Regiment (/wiki/Sherbrooke_Fusiliers_Regiment) in service dress uniform, June 1945 Service Dress was worn in 1939 and into 1940 by soldiers in Canada as field dress, and afterward was no longer issued except to a select few. While a new pattern of Service Dress was introduced for Other Ranks in this period, it was reserved for dress wear only. Battle Dress completely replaced SD as a field uniform beginning in 1940 as enough of the new uniforms became available. [ citation needed ] A new pattern of BD was introduced in 1949, with an open collar matching that of British Pattern 1949 BD. The garment was worn as a field dress throughout the Korean War, and into the 1960s until replaced by the Combat uniform. Some Militia units used BD as a dress uniform until the early 1970s. [ citation needed ] The US Army produced its own version of the BD blouse for issue to soldiers in Europe. Although most of these were produced in England, they were of a dark green color, rather than khaki. Called the ETO ( European Theater of Operations ) jacket, American soldiers dubbed it the Ike Jacket , after General Dwight D. Eisenhower (/wiki/Dwight_D._Eisenhower) . Bush Dress (1950–1960) [ edit ] Bush Dress was a series of dark green cotton uniforms, similar to KD clothing, which replaced those uniforms just prior to the Korean War. Like KD, Bush Dress was worn primarily as a field uniform. It was replaced by the Combat uniform in the 1960s. Combats (1960–2000) [ edit ] Canadian soldiers marching in their green-coloured combat uniforms, 1996 The green combat uniform became universal battledress in the 1960s, and was designed to be worn in any environment (though a tan coloured "tropical" version was worn during Operation Desert Storm and by the Airborne in Somalia). The Canadian pattern combat uniform had angled pockets, designed to take magazines from the FN C1A1 battle rifle; a truly poor design of infantry load bearing equipment inspired this design – the 1964 Pattern Web Equipment had no ammunition pouches. The angled pockets are repeated on the new CADPAT uniform, though they are enlarged and not intended for ammunition carriage. The Canadian combat uniform had a high nylon content, which had the potential for producing significant burns. CADPAT (2000–present) [ edit ] Main article: CADPAT (/wiki/CADPAT) Canadian personnel wearing CADPAT (/wiki/CADPAT) TW operational dress Canadian personnel in CADPAT AR operational dress Operational uniforms used by the Canadian Armed Forces incorporates a digital camouflage (/wiki/Digital_camouflage) design known as CADPAT In Canada, battledress is referred to officially as "No. 5 Operational Dress", and in general parlance as "combat uniform" or "combats". The new Canadian Disruptive Pattern uniform is commonly called "CADPAT" to diffentiate it from the previous uniform called "combat". The term combat now refers to the old monochrome (single color) combat uniform. Currently, the Canadian Forces (/wiki/Canadian_Forces) use the four-colour CADPAT (/wiki/CADPAT) design, a computer-generated pixelated pattern issued in TW (temperate woodland) and AR (arid region) colours. Camouflage cloth of CADPAT pattern was created and adopted in 1995, used for issue helmet covers in 1997 and trousers and blouses in CADPAT began to replace the olive green combat uniform from 2001 when Canadian forces joined the UN (/wiki/United_Nations) peacekeepers in Bosnia-Hercegovina (/wiki/Bosnia_and_Herzegovina) . The AR version was introduced when Canadian troops were deployed to Afghanistan (/wiki/Afghanistan) . Previously, a tan version of the olive combats had been used for tropical wear by soldiers deployed to the Middle East, particularly during Operation Desert Storm (/wiki/Operation_Desert_Storm) and were to be worn by the Canadian Airborne Regiment (Cdn Ab Regt) for the (subsequently canceled) deployment the Western Sahara in 1991. They were later worn by the Cdn Ab Regt during their deployment to Somalia (/wiki/Somalia) . The TAN colored combat uniform was also issued to Canadian troops serving in the Western Sahara with the UN Mission (MINURSO) during 1992–1993. Specialised clothing [ edit ] Canadian sniper Harold Marshall (/wiki/Harold_Marshall_(sniper)) in a Denison smock (/wiki/Denison_smock) Specialised battledress was developed primarily during the Second World War, including the Denison smock (/wiki/Denison_smock) – originally for parachutists but also adopted by snipers. Specialized jump clothing was perpetuated by the Canadian Airborne Regiment (/wiki/Canadian_Airborne_Regiment) who wore distinctive disruptive-pattern jump smocks from 1975 until disbandment in 1995. The Canadian Army has made extensive use of plain coveralls as a field uniform, commonly using khaki coveralls in the Second World War to save wear and tear on wool BD. In the 1950s and 1960s, the Canadian military adopted black coveralls which were often worn as combat dress, replacing them in the 1970s with rifle green coveralls. These were worn in the field in Canada by units in training but are also evident in photos of men deployed to West Germany during the Cold War, as armoured and mechanized units sometimes preferred to wear coveralls when carrying out maintenance. Special patterns of AFV uniform were also worn beginning in the Second World War, initially black coveralls, later khaki coveralls as well as the padded "Pixie suit". Olive drab tanker's uniforms were adopted with the combat uniform in the 1960s, including a distinctive padded jacket with angled front zip. [ citation needed ] France [ edit ] From the middle of the 19th century until the end of the Second World War, French field uniforms for dismounted troops were based on a kind of universal long coat called the capote and breeches, both made of woollen serge. For line infantry (/wiki/Line_infantry) this greatcoat was worn buttoned back from the legs when on the march. Until the end of 1914 the capote was produced in dark blue cloth and the breeches were red ( pantalon rouge ). [4] (#cite_note-4) These highly visible uniforms were replaced in early 1915 by light blue/grey ( bleu horizon ) uniforms for metropolitan troops and khaki for colonial troops. [5] (#cite_note-5) French soldiers during the Battle of the Somme (/wiki/Battle_of_the_Somme) , 1916 In 1921, the French army decided to replace the bleu horizon with khaki. Because of large surplus stocks built up during the war, this measure was not fully effective until 1937. However, during the Phoney War (/wiki/Phoney_War) of 1939-40 some third-line troops were still equipped with bleu horizon uniforms. [6] (#cite_note-6) After the defeat, the French army went on wearing 1940 uniforms, in particular in the armée d'Afrique (/wiki/Arm%C3%A9e_d%27Afrique) (Army of Africa). Some new equipment was introduced by Vichy for the "armistice army" limited to 100,000 soldiers on French soil. The old French uniforms were progressively replaced in the Free French forces by much more modern British or American uniforms, which were progressively withdrawn but still in use until the end of the fifties. [7] (#cite_note-7) Cold War era [ edit ] Field jacket and trousers for the lizard (/wiki/Lizard_(camouflage)) pattern battle dress uniform. The camouflage pattern was introduced in 1947 and used to until the 1980s The first French battledress was introduced in 1945 and was made of a heavy cotton duck, sometimes taken from old German stocks and based on the same design as the British 1937 pattern. The French army introduced a new woolen serge model in 1946 looking like the British 1937 pattern but with exposed buttons. Although it was intended to be a field uniform, it was mainly used as a winter walking-out uniform until the late 1950s. However, the armée de l'air used it in its dark blue version, until 2010. A proper cotton combat uniform was introduced in 1947 (Modèle 47) based on a jacket inspired by the US 1943 pattern and loose trousers with two big cargo pockets on each side of the thighs. The same year, a special uniform, also called Modèle 47 was issued to airborne units composed of a large jacket with two breast and two hip cargo pockets. Originally, both "Modèle 47"s were issued in khaki. From 1951 on, the paratroopers' uniform and, in a lesser proportion, the standard Modèle 47 were issued in a three-colour camouflage pattern which gave the uniform the nickname tenue léopard (leopard uniform), but became better known as the TAP47 lizard pattern (/wiki/Lizard_(camouflage)) . It was issued in many colour variants (colourways), saw war service in Indochina (/wiki/Indochina) and in North-Africa (/wiki/North-Africa) , and was frequently copied by nations in those areas. The last official issue was the 1956 variant, but its use continued until the end of the war in Algeria. The tenue léopard was a symbol of elite units and was issued only to Foreign Legion and French airborne units. Therefore, it was withdrawn in 1962—officially, to give a standard uniform to the whole of the French army but, less officially, to punish those elite troops which had not behaved well during the conflict (/wiki/Algiers_putsch_of_1961) . The Modèle 1947 paratroopers uniform continued to be produced in grey-green material (water repellent and herringbone) until 1969, when it was replaced by the Modèle 1964. On another side, the camouflaged uniform was still in use by the French forces in overseas territories until the end of the 1980s; a huge quantity of them was then handed over to Portugal and Israel. The French army received a new standard battle dress in 1964, roughly based on the principles of the 1947 pattern, but much closer to the body, with zipped breast pockets and made of water repellent grey-green infrared proof material called Satin 300 to protect soldiers against nuclear and chemical agents. Because of a budget shortage at the beginning of the 1980s, this uniform was made of much lighter but much more fragile herringbone material under the name F1. A new variant under the name F2 was introduced at the end of the eighties made of a much stronger material. F1 uniforms were mainly sent to overseas territories. 1990s to present [ edit ] In the 1980s, research results were rejected, because of the similarity to German flecktarn (/wiki/Flecktarn) . In 1994, a new four colour camouflage called " Camouflage Central-Europe (/wiki/Camouflage_Central-Europe) " and close to the American woodland pattern was adopted and progressively introduced for troops in ex-Yugoslavia. F2 battle dress were produced in camouflaged water repellent or herringbone material from this instant on. In 1990, desert camouflage was introduced during the Gulf War and F2 battle dress were produced in a hurried effort in a three-colour " Daguet (/wiki/Camouflage_Daguet) " desert pattern. In 2012 a redesigned Centre Europe version called T4 Serie 2 is slowly replacing the original F2 cut style. it keeps the same pattern and colors but has a wider cut for more comfort and ease of movements, it has improved pockets placement for body armor use and a more resistant fabric (Rip-Stop).The new uniform is planned in 2 different pattern : Centre Europe (Woodland) and Arid (Desert 'Daguet' style) [8] (#cite_note-8) Two French soldiers wearing Camouflage Central-Europe uniforms with jackets. Camouflage Central-Europe with a shirt worn by a French Army officer, on the right. Two French soldiers wearing Camouflage Daguet uniforms. Germany [ edit ] The feldgrau (/wiki/Feldgrau) (" field grey (/wiki/Field_grey) ") colouring was adopted by the German Empire (/wiki/German_Empire) in 1910. World War II [ edit ] Further information: Wehrmacht uniforms (/wiki/Wehrmacht_uniforms) M36 uniform worn by enlisted Wehrmacht (/wiki/Wehrmacht) infantry. Nazi Germany (/wiki/Nazi_Germany) funded a great deal of research on camouflage uniforms, investigating many patterns including NIR camouflage. After much trial the Oberkommando der Wehrmacht (/wiki/Oberkommando_der_Wehrmacht) , in 1938, issued the basic four-colour "plane tree" pattern ( Platanenmuster ) of Schick and Schmid in the form of camouflage smocks to units of the Waffen SS (/wiki/Waffen_SS) . [ dubious – discuss (/wiki/Talk:Combat_uniform#Dubious) ] The three-colour disruptive Splittermuster (/wiki/Splittermuster) , more commonly known in English as 'splinter pattern', was issued to the army (/wiki/German_Army_(Wehrmacht)) beginning before the war, in the form of camouflaged tent quarters ( zeltbahn ) which was reversible, with a splinter pattern in dark colours on one side, and light coloured on the other. [ citation needed ] From 1942, a year after the Luftwaffe (/wiki/Luftwaffe) started producing jump smocks (/wiki/Jump_smock) in this pattern, a variety of helmet covers and camouflage smocks were adopted for the army. A distinctive variant of splinter pattern camouflage was introduced midway through the war, a blurry marsh pattern (/w/index.php?title=Marsh_pattern&action=edit&redlink=1) [ de (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumpftarn) ] ( Sumpfmuster ) referred to as "tan water pattern" in English by collectors. During the war, additional SS variants including "palm", "smoke", and "oak leaf" were introduced, in spring and autumn colours. By 1944 the complex "peas" pattern ( Erbsenmuster ) was also used by the Waffen SS issued as standard, in tunic and trouser combinations, but never in smocks or caps. Initially, camouflage had been a sign of elite troops and the SS continued this differentiation by using its own distinctive patterns. [ citation needed ] In 1941, during the winter on the Eastern Front (/wiki/Eastern_Front_(World_War_II)) , German troops were at a considerable disadvantage because they lacked winter camouflage. [ citation needed ] In 1945, a five-colour Leibermuster (/wiki/Leibermuster) design was introduced. Intended to be used by all the armed forces, it was layered to improve effectiveness at distance, used a new print method to reduce obvious repetition, and included NIR protection. Due to the distribution situation, it was issued to eastern units only. After WW2, this became the standard camouflage pattern for the Swiss armed forces. [ citation needed ] Post-war [ edit ] A soldier of the Bundeswehr in plain olive green combat uniform, 1982. In the 1950s, West Germany (/wiki/West_Germany) 's Bundeswehr (/wiki/Bundeswehr) used two versions of the wartime "splinter", a four-colour pattern called BV- Splittermuster (/wiki/Splittertarnmuster) . Thereafter, from 1961 until 1990 they used the so-called olive-green battle dress. Following various trials, the dots-and-blotches five-colour Flecktarn pattern was chosen in 1976 and issued from the mid-1980s. Reserve forces remained in old olive-green battle dress as late as 1994. East Germany (/wiki/East_Germany) 's Nationale Volksarmee (/wiki/National_People%27s_Army) first pattern was the 1956 Russisches Tarnmuster based, as the name suggests, on the Soviet "amoeba" designs. It was soon replaced by the four-colour Flächentarnmuster pattern (sometimes called "potato" or "splotch"). In 1965, the dense straight-line two-colour Strichmuster pattern was introduced, sometimes called " ein Strich – kein Strich ", it remained in use until reunification. Flecktarn was made the pattern for the unified country in 1990. Tropentarn (/wiki/Tropentarn) is the desert variant of Flecktarn. Flecktarn (/wiki/Flecktarn) parka and cap. German soldiers wearing Flecktarn shirts and trousers. Tropentarn shirt and parka. A German KSK member wearing the new Bundeswehr Multitarn camo pattern. Multitarn [ edit ] In 2016, tests were conducted by the Research Institute of materials and property of the Bundeswehr ( Wehrwissenschaftliche Institut für Werk- und Betriebsstoffe – WIWeB) on a new pattern designated Multitarn as a potential replacement for flecktarn . [9] (#cite_note-9) The pattern is a six-color fleck pattern with similar colors to Crye Precision MultiCam (/wiki/MultiCam) which has seen widespread adoption by many international special forces (/wiki/Special_forces) including the Bundeswehr Kommando Spezialkräfte (/wiki/Kommando_Spezialkr%C3%A4fte) (KSK). [10] (#cite_note-10) The pattern is intended as a multi-terrain pattern, initially for use only by German special forces. The Bundeswehr initially expressed plans for adoption by multiple divisions of the Bundeswehr to complement existing flecktarn patterns but as of 2022 this has not occurred. [11] (#cite_note-11) Unlike with its previous Flecktarn patterns the Bundeswehr has taken strict measures over its property rights and distribution control to prevent unauthorized and illegal production of the pattern outside the Bundeswehr's authorized contractors. [12] (#cite_note-12) Indonesia [ edit ] In the Indonesian National Armed Forces (/wiki/Indonesian_National_Armed_Forces) , the combat uniform is known as "PDL" ( Pakaian Dinas Lapangan ; translated as Field uniform), and is categorized into five types, PDL I (No. 1), PDL II (No. 2), PDL II A (No. 2A), PDL III (No. 3), and PDL IV (No. 4). [13] (#cite_note-13) Indonesian soldiers of the Garuda Contingent. One is dressed in a temperate variant of DPM while most have a four-colour desert variant of the uniform. The general combat uniform of the Indonesian National Armed Forces uses the Disruptive Pattern Material (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) (DPM), which was adopted in 1984. This pattern is sometimes called "Loreng Malvinas (/wiki/Falkland_Islands) ". Aside from general combat uniforms of the national armed forces, each branch also has its own specific camouflage pattern. Around the middle of 2011, the navy adopted a new camouflage design for ship crews. The design is known locally as Loreng Layar , or "sailing camouflage". The Air Force officially adopted a pixelated camouflage design utilizing black, grey, off-white, blue-grey and medium blue, on 5 October 2015, to mark the service's anniversary. It also incorporates (non-pixelated) images of aircraft into the pattern. On 2 March 2022, the army unveiled its combat uniform with a new camouflage pattern, called Loreng Angkatan Darat (Army camo pattern). [14] (#cite_note-14) Units and formations within the armed forces such as the Kopassus (/wiki/Kopassus) , Raider Infantry (/wiki/Indonesian_Army_infantry_battalions#Raider_infantry_battalions) , Kostrad (/wiki/Kostrad) , Marine Corps (/wiki/Indonesian_Marine_Corps) , Kopaska (/wiki/KOPASKA) and Paskhas (/wiki/Kopasgat) have their own distinctive camouflage pattern designs for their field uniforms which resemble their identity, but are only worn during special occasions such as military parades (/wiki/Military_parade) . Members of the armed forces who are assigned to the Garuda Contingent (/wiki/Garuda_Contingent) wear a desert variant of the DPM (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material#Desert_variants) camouflage pattern. [15] (#cite_note-15) Iran [ edit ] There's an arctic blue camo for the Army air force, and a green and brown forest camo with splotches of electric blue for the Army Air Defence Force. [16] (#cite_note-16) Italy [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Italian Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Italian_Armed_Forces) The Italian Army (/wiki/Italian_Army) used grigio-verde in the Alps (/wiki/Alps) from 1906 and across the army from 1909. In 1929, the country was the first to mass-produce camouflage fabric, the three-colour telo mimetico (/wiki/Telo_mimetico) pattern. It was initially used as shelter halves, and not issued as uniform until 1942. [ citation needed ] The pattern remained in use after the war, moving through several colour variations. The marines adopted a complex five-colour "Mediterranean spray" pattern in the 1980s. In 1990, a new army pattern was introduced, a four-colour named "Vegetata"; a desert version was also issued from 1992. Japan [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Imperial Japanese Army (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Imperial_Japanese_Army) Shirt and trousers used in the Japan Self-Defense Forces (/wiki/Japan_Self-Defense_Forces) combat uniform The Japanese (/wiki/Japan) tried monochrome green during the 1905 conflict with Russia, but entered World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) with monochrome mustard khaki uniforms (/wiki/Imperial_Japanese_Army_Uniforms) . Some were fitted with special loops to aid the attachment of natural vegetation. [ citation needed ] The Japan Self-Defense Forces (/wiki/Japan_Self-Defense_Forces) did not issue a pattern until the 1980s, choosing a four-colour green-and-brown design, sometimes called "fang". It was succeeded in 1991 by a dot pattern close to flecktarn , while during the Gulf War a six-colour pattern similar to the United States Desert Battle Dress Uniform (/wiki/Desert_Battle_Dress_Uniform) was used. [ citation needed ] New Zealand [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the New Zealand Army (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_New_Zealand_Army) NZ Army soldiers from RNZIR wearing MCU camouflage pattern, in service from 2013 to 2020. Being of a Commonwealth country New Zealand's armed forces (/wiki/New_Zealand_Defence_Force) generally followed British-style uniforms for most of the 20th century, with New Zealanders adopting British Battledress (/wiki/British_Battledress) during World War II and Korea, and British "Jungle Greens" in Malaya and Borneo while serving in the 28th Commonwealth Infantry Brigade (/wiki/28th_Commonwealth_Infantry_Brigade) . During the Vietnam War New Zealand forces wore Australian Jungle Greens. NZ Special Air Service (NZSAS) troopers wore U.S-issue BDUs in ERDL (/wiki/ERDL_pattern) camouflage during Vietnam and thereafter until the adoption of camouflage for all branches of service in 1980. British Disruptive Pattern Material (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) camouflage was the basis of what eventually evolved into New Zealand disruptive pattern material (/wiki/New_Zealand_disruptive_pattern_material) which became the standard camouflage pattern for the New Zealand Defence Force from 1980 until 2013 when it was replaced by a New Zealand-only digital camouflage called New Zealand Multi Terrain Camouflage (NZMTP) by Canadian company Hyperstealth Biotechnology Corp. The pattern has since been officially replaced with Multi-Terrain Pattern (/wiki/Multi-Terrain_Pattern) by Crye Precision. Crye Precision's off-the-shelf Multicam pattern from which MTP is derived was used by NZ SAS forces in Afghanistan. The cut of the New Zealand combat uniforms is similar to the modern U.S. Army Combat Uniform (/wiki/Army_Combat_Uniform) which entered into service in 2008. Russia [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Russian Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Russian_Armed_Forces) This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Combat_uniform) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( May 2012 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Imperial era [ edit ] Imperial Russian Army (/wiki/Imperial_Russian_Army) soldiers inspect an auto wreckage, 1915 The Imperial Russian Army (/wiki/Imperial_Russian_Army) fought mostly in dark green colours (introduced by Peter the Great (/wiki/Peter_the_Great) in 1700), even if several branches ( Life Guards (/wiki/Imperial_Russian_Guard) regiments, dragoons (/wiki/Dragoons) , hussars (/wiki/Hussars) and uhlans (/wiki/Uhlans) ) dressed in distinctive and colourful attire. Cossack (/wiki/Cossack) regiments were reported to use basic camouflage patterns and techniques during the Crimean War (/wiki/Crimean_War) . Duller colours were used unofficially in the 1880s and again in 1905. The whole army began using khaki for field dress from 1908 on. [17] (#cite_note-17) Soviet era [ edit ] Soviet soldiers prior to the Battle of Smolensk (/wiki/Battle_of_Smolensk_(1941)) in 1941 In the early 1930s, the Soviet Union developed one-piece coveralls and two-piece suits with a disruptive pattern of big amoeba-like spots, which, in conjunction with the baggy shape of the suit itself, were very effective in breaking the outline of the human silhouette. The two-piece suits were made to be worn over the uniform and gear, which could be accessed through the special slots (a design feature later employed by the Germans). The limited use of a two-colour disruptive "amoeba" pattern began in 1938. The "amoeba" remained in use until the 1950s. [ citation needed ] The Soviet Union (/wiki/Soviet_Union) issued all-white winter camouflage in 1938. During World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , other designs were tried, including "leaf" (1940) and the jagged three-colour "TTsMKK" (1944). Most troops remained in a monochrome brown. Post-war Soviet camouflage remained a sign of elite units. A two-colour "sun-ray" pattern was used by paratroopers from 1969 and two- or three-colour versions were issued to Spetsnaz (/wiki/Spetsnaz) , KGB (/wiki/KGB) and MVD (/wiki/Russian_Ministry_of_Internal_Affairs) troops into the 1980s. The KLMK pattern was the first "digital" camouflage and it was issued to Spetsnaz troops and some Border guards (/wiki/Border_guards) units. In the early 1980s a new brown and green pattern was introduced, the 3-TsV series, more commonly referred to as TTsKO. It was intended for the Soviet airborne and land forces, and remained in service until after the end of the Soviet Union. It was not seen by the west until 1985 during a military parade. Modern Russia era [ edit ] After the collapse of the Soviet Union (/wiki/Dissolution_of_the_Soviet_Union) , a new pattern was developed as the standard field uniform. Issued from 1993, the three-colour green-brown-tan design in a vertical orientation was called VSR, or "Schofield" in the West. This was quickly superseded by the same basic pattern in a horizontal orientation, called 'flora', in 1998. Other widely used patterns in the 1990s were inspired by Western designs, notably the British DPM (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) influenced the 'Smog' pattern, and U.S. Woodland pattern influenced the 'les' pattern. The elite forces maintain different patterns; MVD troops began using the four-colour "SMK" pattern in 1992 and other units wear a distinctive "reed" pattern. Versions of the "woodland" pattern also remain in use. Members of the Russian Airborne Forces (/wiki/Russian_Airborne_Forces) in EMR Pattern uniform. In 2008, the Russian Armed Forces (/wiki/Russian_Armed_Forces) introduced a pixelated camouflage design intended to replace the VSR and Flora patterns. Officially called единая маскировочная расцветка (Edinaya maskirovochnaya rascvetka) or EMR (/wiki/EMR_camouflage) , translating roughly as Unified Camouflage Coloration (in this sense the word "unified" refers to the fact that it is common to all the armed forces of Russia). The pattern is often referred to as Tsifra, Tetris or "digital flora." Several variations of this pattern have been produced, the most common of which is the leto (summer) variant incorporating tiny pixels of black, reddish-brown and foliage green on a pale green background. Other versions include sever (northern regions), zima (winter), and gorod (urban). Full-scale adoption began in 2011. [18] (#cite_note-18) United Kingdom [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the British Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_British_Armed_Forces) From the late 17th century to the late 19th century, most British soldiers ( red coats (/wiki/Red_coat_(British_army)) ) fought in scarlet (/wiki/Scarlet_(color)) tunics (/wiki/Tunic) . The adoption of scarlet was mainly for economic reasons. When Oliver Cromwell initially started forming the New Model Army (/wiki/New_Model_Army) , red was the cheapest dye available. Toward the end of the 19th century, however, as the nature of warfare moved away from close formation fighting to more individual fighting, it began to be recognised that this colour stood out too much. [ citation needed ] Historical reenactors (/wiki/Historical_reenactment) depicting the New Model Army (/wiki/New_Model_Army) during the Battle of Naseby (/wiki/Battle_of_Naseby) . Most British soldiers fought in red-coloured coats/tunics (/wiki/Red_coat_(British_army)) from the 17th to 19th century. The move towards camouflage began in India (/wiki/India) , and khaki (/wiki/Khaki) was used during the Indian rebellion of 1857 (/wiki/Indian_rebellion_of_1857) . It became standard in India in 1885, for all foreign postings in 1896, and was adopted throughout the army in 1902 during the Second Boer War (/wiki/Second_Boer_War) . World War I In 1902, the British Army introduced a khaki serge uniform known as Service Dress, featuring a pair of straight leg trousers and a jacket, featuring a stand-and-fall collar and four pockets, each secured by a single, usually brass, button. [19] (#cite_note-19) This was subtly altered in 1907, [20] (#cite_note-20) 1914 [21] (#cite_note-21) as well as during the inter-war period. [22] (#cite_note-:0-22) In addition, a version existed for wear with sporrans, was cut away at the front. [23] (#cite_note-23) A separate version was used by officers, which had an open collar and was worn with a shirt and tie. [24] (#cite_note-24) Service Dress continued to be worn throughout the inter-war period and into the earlier part of the Second World War, when it was superseded by Battledress. [22] (#cite_note-:0-22) World War II [ edit ] Battledress (/wiki/British_Battledress) (BD), later called "No.5 Dress", was the official name for the standard working and fighting uniform worn by the British Army (/wiki/British_Army) and the armies of other Imperial (/wiki/British_Empire) and Commonwealth (/wiki/Commonwealth_of_Nations) countries in temperate (/wiki/Temperate) climes from 1937 to the late 1960s. It was a pair of trousers and a close fitting short jacket Blouse made of khaki (/wiki/Khaki) -coloured woollen cloth (/wiki/Wool) . Air force blue (/wiki/Air_force_blue) battledress was worn by the Royal Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Air_Force) , and Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) shore parties wore a navy blue (/wiki/Navy_blue) version. Camouflage dress was hand-painted for some specialists. [ citation needed ] The Battle Dress design at the start of the war was the (19)37 Pattern . In 1942 [25] (#cite_note-25) it was replaced with the simpler made (19)40 Utility Pattern . This omitted finer details such as pleating on pockets. In both cases the blouse came in two forms, the ordinary ranks with closed neck and the officers open neck which exposed their shirt and tie. From 1942, the camouflaged Denison smock (/wiki/Denison_smock) , originally issued to the Airborne forces (/wiki/Parachute_Regiment_(United_Kingdom)) to be worn over the BD, was issued more widely. [ citation needed ] Tropical uniforms [ edit ] In the early campaigns in North Africa (/wiki/North_African_Campaign) and the Mediterranean theatre (/wiki/Mediterranean_theatre_of_World_War_II) , British troops wore khaki drill (/wiki/Khaki_drill) ( KD (/wiki/Khaki_drill) ) shorts or slacks with long sleeved Aertex (/wiki/Aertex) shirts. The paler shade of KD was more suited to desert or semi-desert regions than the dark khaki serge used in Battle dress. When the Allies moved up through Italy, however, two-piece khaki denim battledress overalls were increasingly preferred. By 1943, the KD shirt began to be replaced by a more durable cotton KD bush jacket (/wiki/Bush_jacket) . [ citation needed ] British Army soldiers in Burma, February 1945 In the Far East (/wiki/Far_East) , the British found themselves at war with the Japanese (/wiki/Empire_of_Japan) while equipped with the impractical KD uniform. Shirts and trousers had to be dyed green as a temporary expedient until more suitable jungle clothing became available. A new tropical uniform in Jungle Green (JG) was quickly developed – a JG Aertex (/wiki/Aertex) battledress blouse, a JG Aertex bush jacket (as an alternative to the blouse) and battledress trousers in JG cotton drill. In the hot and humid conditions of Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) , JG darkened with sweat almost immediately. [26] (#cite_note-Burns_1992-26) Post-war [ edit ] When the war in Europe was over (/wiki/Victory_in_Europe_Day) , a new jungle uniform began to be produced for troops posted to the Far East (/wiki/Far_East) . It was based on the U.S. Army Pacific theatre (/wiki/Asiatic-Pacific_Theater) field uniform, with Aertex being rejected in favour of cotton drill. Although the jacket was similar to the U.S. design, the trousers maintained the battledress design, but with some features copied from American olive drab (OD) herringbone twill trousers. Newly available synthetic materials were utilised in one version of the new Olive Green (OG) uniform, as it was called. The khaki Battledress was used until the late 1960s, and various uniform items in KD, JG and OG remained on issue to soldiers serving in the Mediterranean, Middle East or tropics after the war. By the end of the 1940s, however, stocks were becoming depleted, and a new 1950-pattern tropical uniform was made available in both KD. Shorts were worn with a bush jacket. Eventually the much more practical Gurkha regiments’ JG shirt was copied, replacing the 1950-pattern bush jacket. All the same, troops still sought out the older, wartime, issues of the better KD, JG and OG kit. Members of the Black Watch (/wiki/Black_Watch) in combat uniforms relaxing during the Korean War (/wiki/Korean_War) While serving during the Korean War (/wiki/Korean_War) (1950–53), troops had found the existing combat uniform inadequate: It was too hot in the summertime, and not warm enough during the harsh Korean winters. Soldiers were at first issued JG for hot weather, and battledress in the wintertime, but this had to be augmented with additional warm clothing (often from the U.S. Army) as well as caps with ear flaps and fur linings (/wiki/Lining_(sewing)) . A solution was rapidly pursued, and towards the end of the Korean War a windproof and water-repellent gabardine (/wiki/Gabardine) combat uniform was issued. The trousers followed the tried and tested battledress design, while the bush jacket had several pockets inside and out, closing with zips and buttons, a hip length skirt with draw-strings to keep out the wind, and a similar arrangement at the waist. The uniform was produced in a greyish green colour (OG), similar to the U.S. Army OD. With the end of National Service (/wiki/National_Service) in 1961, the Army looked for a new uniform: Something that was smarter than battledress, but also more comfortable, while still having a military air about it. Using the Korean War combat clothing as a basis, various new items of field wear were developed for the 1960-pattern Combat Dress, which was well made, with a lining above the waist and reinforced elbows. The 1960s was a period of transition for the Army, and this was reflected in the changes that were taking place in soldier's uniform. [26] (#cite_note-Burns_1992-26) Formally classified as "No. 5 Dress", the 1949 pattern battledress began to be withdrawn from British Army use from 1961 on. With the general issue of the new service dress uniform for parade and off-duty ('walking out") wear, battledress was relegated to barracks wear from about 1962 and thereafter disappeared within individual units as stocks were used up. One final appearance was in Northern Ireland as a cold weather dress by the Gloucestershire Regiment (/wiki/Gloucestershire_Regiment) in the winter of 1970. [27] (#cite_note-27) DPM [ edit ] Main article: Disruptive Pattern Material (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) British issue shirt and trousers in temperate version of DPM (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_British_Army#No.8:_Temperate_Combat_Dress) . British desert version of DPM (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_British_Army#No.5:_Desert_combat_dress) worn by a British Army officer, right. The new, smaller, all-volunteer Army could also now afford to equip every soldier with his own camouflaged uniform, and following work at the Army Personnel Research Establishment (/w/index.php?title=Army_Personnel_Research_Establishment&action=edit&redlink=1) (APRE) a four-colour camouflage pattern was designed in 1960. From 1969 it was issued in limited quantities on 1960-pattern jackets and trousers. Known as “Pattern 1960 DPM (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) ” ( Disruptive Pattern Material (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) ), these items were soon superseded by the '68-Pattern, which had a very slightly revised camouflage design on a new uniform, featuring minor changes over the preceding 1960/66-Pattern kit, most notably: a full lining for jacket and trousers. It became official issue only in 1972. [26] (#cite_note-Burns_1992-26) The temperate clothing was followed by a DPM jungle combat uniform which, due to the use of different (i.e. polycotton) material, had a slightly different colourway. The underlying pattern has remained through various different patterns of clothing but has differed in detail of the pattern and the colourway depending on the material and manufacturer. The DPM uniform was overhauled with the introduction of the Combat Soldier 95 system (CS95) in the mid 90s, which combined lightweight polycotton shirts and trousers similar to the old jungle uniforms with a combat jacket and breathable waterproof clothing. Prior to the Gulf War (/wiki/Gulf_War) , the stock of uniform in four-colour desert DPM of browns and tans had been sold to Iraq (/wiki/Iraq) therefore a two-colour DPM version (light brown on tan) was issued to UK forces. [ citation needed ] MultiCam [ edit ] See also: MultiCam § United Kingdom (/wiki/MultiCam#United_Kingdom) Since 2010 the British armed forces began phasing out DPM in favour of Multi-Terrain Pattern (/wiki/Multi-Terrain_Pattern) (MTP). This pattern is based on the technology developed by Crye called MultiCam (/wiki/MultiCam) , which was rejected by the US Army in favour of the controversial ACU (/wiki/Army_Combat_Uniform) , but kept elements of the DPM pattern to create a more British Army look. MTP was brought in as a response to the Green Zone in Helmand, Afghanistan, where troops could move between typical desert conditions like those found in Iraq to lush green countryside during a routine patrol. The initial run of MTP was produced in CS95 cut and material, but the second run was produced in the new Personal Clothing System (PCS), closer to that used in the American ACU. [ citation needed ] Multi-Terrain Pattern with shirt, left, and with jackets. Waterproof jacket in MTP. One British soldier wearing a Multi-Terrain Pattern uniform, left, and other soldiers wearing temperate versions of Disruptive Pattern Material uniform. United States [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the United States Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Armed_Forces) and United States Army uniforms in World War II (/wiki/United_States_Army_uniforms_in_World_War_II) Examples of different US combat uniforms. From left to right are Army Combat Uniform in Universal Camouflage Pattern (/wiki/Universal_Camouflage_Pattern) (UCP), Desert Battle Dress Uniform (/wiki/Desert_Battle_Dress_Uniform) , Battle Dress Uniform (/wiki/Battle_Dress_Uniform) and ERDL pattern (/wiki/ERDL_pattern) The United States Armed Forces have adopted a variety of combat uniforms throughout their history, including the plain olive green OG-107 (/wiki/OG-107) . In the 1980s the OG-107 was replaced with the camouflaged Battle Dress Uniform (BDU). During that decade the Desert Battle Dress Uniform (DBDU) was introduced and remained until it was replaced in the 1990s by the Desert Camouflage Uniform (/wiki/Desert_Camouflage_Uniform) (DCU). Pixelated camouflage uniforms were introduced in the 2000s, including Airman Battle Uniform (/wiki/Airman_Battle_Uniform) , Army Combat Uniform (/wiki/Army_Combat_Uniform) , Marine Corps Combat Utility Uniform (/wiki/Marine_Corps_Combat_Utility_Uniform) and the Navy Working Uniform (/wiki/Navy_Working_Uniform) . These replaced the BDU and the DCU. See also [ edit ] Military uniform (/wiki/Military_uniform) Boonie hat (/wiki/Boonie_hat) Patrol cap (/wiki/Patrol_cap) Helmet cover (/wiki/Helmet_cover) Combat boot (/wiki/Combat_boot) Snow camouflage#Military usage (/wiki/Snow_camouflage#Military_usage) Type 07#Combat uniforms and armor (/wiki/Type_07#Combat_uniforms_and_armor) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Khaki Uniform 1848-49: First Introduction by Lumsden and Hodson". Journal of the Society for Army Historical Research . 82 (Winter): 341–347. 2004. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Barthorp, Michael (/wiki/Michael_Barthorp) (1988). The British Army on Campaign 1816–1902: Volume 3 (1856–1881) . Osprey. pp. 24–37. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85045-835-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Borsarello, J.F. (1999). Camouflage uniforms of European and NATO armies : 1945 to the present (1.udg. ed.). Atglen, PA: Schiffer Pub. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0764310186 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Jouineau, Andre (2008). Officers and Soldiers of the French Army in 1914 . p. 14. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-35250-104-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Jouineau, Andre (April 2009). Officers and Soldiers of the French Army 1918 . pp. 4 and 8. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-35250-105-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Jouineau, Andre (2011-01-15). Officers and Soldiers of the French Army 1940 . p. 4. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-35250-179-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Gaujac, Paul (2012). Officiers et Soldats de L' Armee Francaise 1943-1956 . pp. 88–89. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-35250-195-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Nouveau treillis (p. 38–9) http://fr.calameo.com/read/00006330254d15e197267 (http://fr.calameo.com/read/00006330254d15e197267) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170301021556/http://fr.calameo.com/read/00006330254d15e197267) 2017-03-01 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-9) 'New Multitarn patterns for the Bundeswehr' Author: Dylan Malyasov, Date 18 January 2016, URL: https://defence-blog.com/new-multitarn-patterns-for-the-bundeswehr/ (https://defence-blog.com/new-multitarn-patterns-for-the-bundeswehr/) ^ (#cite_ref-10) "VJTF 2023: Bundeswehr führt erstmals Hauptquartier für Spezialkräftemissionen" (https://www.bundeswehr.de/de/aktuelles/meldungen/bundeswehr-fuehrt-spezialkraeftehauptquartier-fuer-vjtf-5534948) . www.bundeswehr.de (in German). 2022-12-05 . Retrieved 2023-06-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Multitarn - The new German Flecktarn" (https://www.chk-shield.com/blogs/news/multitarn-the-new-german-flecktarn) . CHK-SHIELD | Outdoor Army - Tactical Gear Shop . 2020-12-23 . Retrieved 2023-06-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Mehr als Flecktarn: Neues Multitarn-Muster für die Bundeswehr – Augen geradeaus!" (https://augengeradeaus.net/2016/01/mehr-als-flecktarn-neues-multitarn-muster-fuer-die-bundeswehr/) . augengeradeaus.net . Retrieved 2023-06-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Peraturan Panglima Tentara Nasional Indonesia Nomor 11 Tahun 2019 Tentang Seragam Dinas Tentara Nasional Indonesia (National Armed Forces Commander Regulation 11) (in Indonesian). Commander of the Indonesian National Armed Forces (/wiki/Commander_of_the_Indonesian_National_Armed_Forces) . 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Darma, Agung (2022-03-02). "Kasad Launching Loreng TNI AD dan Perkenalkan Ambulance Babinsa" (https://tniad.mil.id/kasad-lounching-seragam-baru-pdl-tni-ad-perkenalkan/) . tniad.mil.id (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2022-03-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Kirim 970 Tentara ke Lebanon, Jokowi: Bangga Jaga Perdamaian" (https://www.suara.com/news/2018/08/31/104404/kirim-970-tentara-ke-lebanon-jokowi-bangga-jaga-perdamaian) . suara.com . August 31, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-16) "How I learned to stop worrying and love the Iranian army | Iran | the Guardian" (https://amp.theguardian.com/world/iran-blog/2015/jul/22/iran-military-uniform-gomrok-shopping-spree) . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Mollo, Boris (1979). Uniforms of the Imperial Russian Army . p. 47. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7137-0920-0 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Russia - Camopedia" (https://www.camopedia.org/index.php?title=Russia) . www.camopedia.org . Retrieved 2021-03-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Jacket, Service Dress, 1902 pattern (SP 1902): O/Rs, British Army" (https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30094285) . Imperial War Museums . Retrieved 2023-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Jacket, Service Dress, 1907 pattern: O/Rs, British Army" (https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30094231) . Imperial War Museums . Retrieved 2023-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Jacket, Service Dress, 1914 (simplified) pattern (SP 1914): O/Rs, British Army" (https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30094279) . Imperial War Museums . Retrieved 2023-01-16 . ^ Jump up to: a b Davis, Brian L. (1983). British Army Uniforms and Insignia of World War Two (1st ed.). London: Book Club Associates, London. pp. 178–183. ^ (#cite_ref-23) "photograph" (https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205270689) . Imperial War Museums . Retrieved 2023-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "photograph" (https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205270688) . Imperial War Museums . Retrieved 2023-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Davis, Brian Leigh (1983). British Army uniforms & insignia of World War Two . London: Arms and Armour Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85368-609-2 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 21153395 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/21153395) . ^ Jump up to: a b c Burns, Michael G. (1992). British Combat Dress Since 1945 . Arms & Armour Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85368-984-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Jewell, Brian (1992-03-26). British Battledress 1937-61 . pp. 11–12. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85045-387-9 . Further reading [ edit ] DPM: Disruptive Pattern Material by Hardy Blechman and Alex Newman, DPM Ltd. (2004) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9543404-0-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9543404-0-X) Behrens, Roy R. (2002). FALSE COLORS: Art, Design and Modern Camouflage . Bobolink Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9713244-0-9 . Khaki: Uniforms of the CEF by Clive M. Law (/wiki/Clive_M._Law) ( Service Publications (/wiki/Service_Publications) , 1998). Dressed to Kill: Canadian Army Uniforms in World War Two by Michael Dorosh ( Service Publications (/wiki/Service_Publications) , 2001). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-894581-07-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-894581-07-5) Official Government Recognized Export House Army Uniforms Military Uniforms India Berets (http://www.berets.in/) External links [ edit ] www.canadiansoldiers.com (http://www.canadiansoldiers.com/) : extensive discussion of Canadian Army uniforms, insignia, and traditions from 1900 to 2000 U.S. Civil War Era Uniforms and Accouterments (http://battleofolustee.org/uniforms/uniforms.html) v t e Camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) Methods (/wiki/List_of_camouflage_methods) Camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) Countershading (/wiki/Countershading) Active camouflage (/wiki/Active_camouflage) Counter-illumination (/wiki/Counter-illumination) Disruptive coloration (/wiki/Disruptive_coloration) Coincident disruptive coloration (/wiki/Coincident_disruptive_coloration) Disruptive eye mask (/wiki/Disruptive_eye_mask) Distractive markings (/wiki/Distractive_markings) Motion camouflage (/wiki/Motion_camouflage) Multi-scale camouflage (/wiki/Multi-scale_camouflage) Multi-spectral camouflage (/wiki/Multi-spectral_camouflage) Self-decoration (/wiki/Self-decoration_camouflage) Snow camouflage (/wiki/Snow_camouflage) Urban camouflage (/wiki/Urban_camouflage) In nature As evidence for natural selection (/wiki/Coloration_evidence_for_natural_selection) Crypsis (/wiki/Crypsis) Decorator crab (/wiki/Decorator_crab) Flower mantis (/wiki/Flower_mantis) Mimicry (/wiki/Mimicry) Batesian (/wiki/Batesian_mimicry) Müllerian (/wiki/M%C3%BCllerian_mimicry) Aggressive (/wiki/Aggressive_mimicry) Underwater camouflage (/wiki/Underwater_camouflage) People Early Edward Bagnall Poulton (/wiki/Edward_Bagnall_Poulton) The Colours of Animals (/wiki/The_Colours_of_Animals) Abbott Handerson Thayer (/wiki/Abbott_Handerson_Thayer) Concealing-Coloration in the Animal Kingdom (/wiki/Concealing-Coloration_in_the_Animal_Kingdom) Camoufleurs (/wiki/Camoufleurs) Mary Taylor Brush (/wiki/Mary_Taylor_Brush) Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola (/wiki/Lucien-Victor_Guirand_de_Sc%C3%A9vola) John Graham Kerr (/wiki/John_Graham_Kerr) Norman Wilkinson (/wiki/Norman_Wilkinson_(artist)) Everett Warner (/wiki/Everett_Warner) Leon Underwood (/wiki/Leon_Underwood) Johann Georg Otto Schick (/wiki/Johann_Georg_Otto_Schick) Hugh Cott (/wiki/Hugh_B._Cott) Adaptive Coloration in Animals (/wiki/Adaptive_Coloration_in_Animals) Geoffrey Barkas (/wiki/Geoffrey_Barkas) Timothy O'Neill (/wiki/Timothy_O%27Neill_(camoufleur)) Researchers Roy Behrens (/wiki/Roy_Behrens) Tim Caro (/wiki/Tim_Caro) Innes Cuthill (/wiki/Innes_Cuthill) Thomas N. Sherratt (/wiki/Thomas_N._Sherratt) Martin Stevens (/wiki/Martin_Stevens_(biologist)) Military (/wiki/Military_camouflage) Topics Military camouflage (/wiki/Military_camouflage) Aircraft camouflage (/wiki/Aircraft_camouflage) Dazzle camouflage (/wiki/Dazzle_camouflage) Middle East Command Camouflage Directorate (/wiki/Middle_East_Command_Camouflage_Directorate) Ship camouflage (/wiki/Ship_camouflage) USN WWII camouflage measures (/wiki/World_War_II_ship_camouflage_measures_of_the_United_States_Navy) Patterns (/wiki/List_of_military_clothing_camouflage_patterns) Up to WWII German (/wiki/German_World_War_II_camouflage_patterns) WWII (/wiki/German_World_War_II_camouflage_patterns) Splittertarnmuster (/wiki/Splittertarnmuster) (1931) Platanenmuster (/wiki/Platanenmuster) (1937) Rauchtarnmuster (/wiki/Rauchtarnmuster) (1939) Palmenmuster (/wiki/Palmenmuster) (c 1941) Sumpfmuster (/wiki/Sumpfmuster) (1943) Erbsenmuster (/wiki/Erbsenmuster) (1944) Leibermuster (/wiki/Leibermuster) (1945) Other Camouflage tree (/wiki/Camouflage_tree) (1915) Lozenge (/wiki/Lozenge_camouflage) (1917 aircraft) Telo mimetico (/wiki/Telo_mimetico) (1929 tent) Denison smock (/wiki/Denison_smock) (1941) Frog Skin (/wiki/Frog_Skin) (1942) Ghillie suit (/wiki/Ghillie_suit) Post-war Lizard (/wiki/Lizard_(camouflage)) (1947) Strichtarn (/wiki/Strichtarn) (1960) KLMK (/wiki/Kamuflirovannyi_Letnyi_Maskirovochnyi_Kombinezon) (1968) Late 20th century Jigsaw (/wiki/Jigsaw_camouflage) (1958) Tiger stripe (/wiki/Tiger_stripe_camouflage) (1962) Rhodesian Brushstroke (/wiki/Rhodesian_Brushstroke) (1965) ERDL (/wiki/ERDL_pattern) (1967) Disruptive Pattern Material (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Material) (1969) wz. 68 Moro (/wiki/Wz._68_Moro) (1969) Six-Color Desert Pattern (Chocolate Chip) (/wiki/Desert_Battle_Dress_Uniform) (1981) U.S. "M81" Woodland (/wiki/U.S._Woodland) (1981) Australian Disruptive Pattern (/wiki/Disruptive_Pattern_Camouflage_Uniform) (1982) TAZ 83 (/wiki/TAZ_83) (1983) Dubok (/wiki/Dubok_(camouflage)) (1984) M84 (/wiki/M84_camouflage_pattern) (1984) Type 87 (China) (/wiki/Type_87_(camouflage)) (1987) wz. 89 Puma (/wiki/Wz._89_Puma) (1989) Camouflage Daguet (/wiki/Camouflage_Daguet) (1989) M90 (/wiki/M90_(camouflage)) (1990) Desert Night Camouflage (/wiki/Desert_Night_Camouflage) (1990) Flecktarn (/wiki/Flecktarn) (1990) Tropentarn (/wiki/Tropentarn) (1990) Desert Camouflage Pattern (/wiki/Desert_Camouflage_Uniform) (1990) Camouflage Central-Europe (/wiki/Camouflage_Central-Europe) (1991) Soldier 2000 (/wiki/Soldier_2000) (1993) TAZ 90 (/wiki/TAZ_90) (1993) wz. 93 Pantera (/wiki/Wz._93_Pantera) (1993) CADPAT (/wiki/CADPAT) (1997) M98 (/wiki/M98_camouflage_pattern) (1998) Flora (/wiki/Flora_camouflage) (1998) 21st century MARPAT (/wiki/MARPAT) (2001) ( Marine Corps Combat Utility Uniform (/wiki/Marine_Corps_Combat_Utility_Uniform) (2002)) MultiCam (/wiki/MultiCam) (2002) Tactical Assault Camouflage (/wiki/Tactical_Assault_Camouflage) (2004) Universal 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American model Niki Taylor Taylor in 2017 Born Nicole Renee Taylor ( 1975-03-05 ) March 5, 1975 (age 49) Fort Lauderdale, Florida (/wiki/Fort_Lauderdale,_Florida) , U.S. Spouses Matt Martinez ( m. 1994; div. 1996) Burney Lamar (/wiki/Burney_Lamar) ( m. 2006) Children 4 Modeling information Height 5 ft 11 in (1.80 m) Hair color Blonde (/wiki/Blond) Eye color Hazel (/wiki/Eye_color#Hazel) Agency One Model Management (New York) d'management group (Milan) Established Models (London) Sutherland Models (Toronto) Visage Management (Zurich) [1] (#cite_note-1) Website nikitaylor.com (https://web.archive.org/web/20130306082953/http://www.nikitaylor.com/) Nicole Renee Taylor (born March 5, 1975) is an American model (/wiki/Model_(person)) and has hosted for television. Early life [ edit ] Taylor was born in Fort Lauderdale, Florida (/wiki/Fort_Lauderdale,_Florida) to Ken and Barbara Taylor, a highway patrol lieutenant and a photographer, respectively. She was raised in Pembroke Pines, Florida (/wiki/Pembroke_Pines,_Florida) ; she attended Cooper City High School (/wiki/Cooper_City_High_School) . She has an older sister, Joelle; she and Joelle had a younger sister, Krissy (/wiki/Krissy_Taylor) (1978–1995). Modeling career [ edit ] When she was 13, Taylor signed with Irene Marie Models in South Florida. There she met photographer Jean Renard, who later became her manager. She subsequently won a Fresh Faces contest in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) and a $500,000 modeling contract. Taylor's first magazine cover was an issue of Seventeen (/wiki/Seventeen_(American_magazine)) (August 1989) at 14. The next year, she was photographed for the cover of Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , becoming the second youngest person (at 15) to appear on the cover of the magazine, after Brooke Shields (/wiki/Brooke_Shields) . In 1991, at age 16, Taylor became the youngest person ever to be featured as one of People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) magazine's Most Beautiful People. In 1992, Taylor became the first spokesmodel (/wiki/Spokesman) younger than 18 to sign a major contract with CoverGirl (/wiki/CoverGirl) , and she became a feature in their national advertising campaign. Other ad campaigns of hers have been for Thierry Mugler (/wiki/Thierry_Mugler) , Escada (/wiki/Escada) , Liz Claiborne (/wiki/Liz_Claiborne) , Jean Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Gaultier) , Versace (/wiki/Versace) , Versus (/wiki/Versus_(Versace)) , Anne Klein (/wiki/Anne_Klein_(fashion_designer)) , L'Oréal (/wiki/L%27Or%C3%A9al) , Gap (/wiki/Gap_(clothing_retailer)) , Lee (/wiki/Lee_(jeans)) Jeans, and Pantene (/wiki/Pantene) . Taylor remains the only person to simultaneously have six billboards in NYC's Times Square (/wiki/Times_Square) , three of those displayed her image continuously throughout the entire year. [2] (#cite_note-2) In May 1996, Taylor appeared on the covers of the six major American women's fashion and fitness magazines in the same month: Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) , Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , ELLE (/wiki/ELLE) , Marie Claire (/wiki/Marie_Claire) , Self (/wiki/Self_(magazine)) , and Shape (/wiki/Shape_(magazine)) . A first in history, it was named the 'Niki Six'. [3] (#cite_note-3) She appeared in the 1997 and 1998 editions of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) ; she was the cover model of the 1998 Sports Illustrated swimsuit calendar. Sports Illustrated released three video segments of her photo shoots, for the years 1997, 1998 and 1999. The 1997 segment was with another model, Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) , the 1998 segment was with two other models, and the 1999 segment only featured Taylor. In September 2016, Taylor began a modeling comeback, shooting covers, editorials, and features for major magazines including Paper , [4] (#cite_note-PAPERMAG-4) Flaunt , [5] (#cite_note-5) British (/wiki/Vogue_(British_magazine)) Vogue , [6] (#cite_note-6) Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , [7] (#cite_note-7) and American (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) Vogue . [8] (#cite_note-:0-8) She has been photographed for Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) [9] (#cite_note-9) and Jennifer Fisher (/wiki/Jennifer_Fisher_(designer)) . [10] (#cite_note-10) In September 2017, Taylor earned best dressed titles in Vanity Fair , [11] (#cite_note-11) Vogue , [8] (#cite_note-:0-8) Hello! magazine (/wiki/Hello!_(magazine)) , [12] (#cite_note-12) and WWD . [13] (#cite_note-13) In April 2021, Taylor again became the face of CoverGirl (/wiki/CoverGirl) after her last contract ended in 2000. [14] (#cite_note-14) Other ventures [ edit ] Outside of modeling, Taylor was once an interviewer for segments of the syndicated program Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous (/wiki/Lifestyles_of_the_Rich_and_Famous) . She covered events for NBC (/wiki/NBC) and guest-hosted MTV (/wiki/MTV) 's Fashionably Loud . In the fall of 2005, Taylor launched her first fragrance, "Begin by Niki Taylor." She also founded the Begin Foundation for the Advancement of Women in Business. In 2007, Taylor introduced the finalists on friend and co-CoverGirl spokesmodel Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) 's talkshow. Taylor and male model Tyson Beckford (/wiki/Tyson_Beckford) co-hosted the new Bravo (/wiki/Bravo_(US_TV_channel)) series Make Me a Supermodel (/wiki/Make_Me_a_Supermodel_(US)) . It premiered on January 10, 2008. [15] (#cite_note-15) Although the show was renewed for a second season, Taylor did not return as co-host since she was pregnant during the filming of the second season. [16] (#cite_note-16) Taylor became a contestant on the fourth edition of The Celebrity Apprentice (/wiki/The_Apprentice_(U.S._season_11)) on March 6, 2011. In the first task, Taylor was considered the star performer by her team, and was rewarded $35,000 for her charity ( American Red Cross (/wiki/American_Red_Cross) ) because of her efforts. On March 20, she became the third person to be fired. She returned for the May 1, 2011 episode to help the men's team, Team Backbone, in a Hair Show Task. Personal life [ edit ] In October 2006, Taylor became engaged to NASCAR (/wiki/NASCAR) driver Burney Lamar (/wiki/Burney_Lamar) after just three dates. [17] (#cite_note-Niki_Taylor_Engaged-17) They met at an autograph session in January 2006. [17] (#cite_note-Niki_Taylor_Engaged-17) Their wedding was on December 27, 2006, at the Grande Colonial Hotel in La Jolla, California (/wiki/La_Jolla,_California) . Instead of gifts, the couple asked for donations to be sent to Victory Junction Gang Camp, a camp for chronically ill children in North Carolina (/wiki/North_Carolina) . [18] (#cite_note-18) Taylor and Lamar's first child together, a daughter, was born on March 4, 2009, one day before Taylor's 34th birthday. [19] (#cite_note-19) Taylor lives with her husband, daughter, and sons in a French colonial house (/wiki/American_colonial_architecture) on 7 acres (28,000 m 2 ) in Brentwood (/wiki/Brentwood,_Tennessee) , Tennessee (/wiki/Tennessee) . [20] (#cite_note-20) On November 16, 2011, Taylor gave birth to her second child with Lamar, a son. [21] (#cite_note-21) Taylor has returned to a high-profile life and career again, appearing at major fashion events and New York Fashion Week shows, both with friends and also with her family. [22] (#cite_note-22) Health struggles [ edit ] On April 29, 2001, Taylor was critically injured in a car accident in Atlanta (/wiki/Atlanta,_Georgia) . The driver, her then-boyfriend Chad Renegar, was attempting to answer his cell phone when he lost control of the car and smashed into a utility pole. [23] (#cite_note-23) Taylor was wearing her automatic shoulder belt at the time and she was not thrown from the vehicle. However, she suffered severe internal injuries, including a collapsed lung (/wiki/Pneumothorax) and serious liver (/wiki/Liver) damage; two steel rods had to be implanted in her back holding her spine together. The accident left her unconscious (/wiki/Unconsciousness) and in a coma for six weeks and then bedridden for an additional month. She was treated at Grady Memorial Hospital (/wiki/Grady_Memorial_Hospital) in Atlanta; she had approximately 56 operations and substantial physical therapy (/wiki/Physical_therapy) . [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-25) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Niki Taylor - Model" (https://models.com/models/niki-taylor) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Niki Taylor's daughter wants to follow in model mama's footsteps" (https://nypost.com/2017/02/12/niki-taylors-daughter-wants-to-follow-in-model-mamas-footsteps/) . New York Post . 2017-02-12 . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Taylor Made" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/legendary-supermodel-niki-taylor-has-a-baby-girl) . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-PAPERMAG_4-0) " (http://www.papermag.com/niki-taylor-2436912998.html) '90s Icon Niki Taylor Steps Back in Front of the Camera" (http://www.papermag.com/niki-taylor-2436912998.html) . PAPERMAG . 2017-07-25 . Retrieved 2017-10-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Supermodel Niki Taylor Is Still Flying High" (http://www.flaunt.com/content/fashion/niki-taylor-eternal) . Flaunt Magazine . Retrieved 2017-10-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Meet The NYFW Mother-Daughter Duos" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/niki-taylor-cindy-crawford-kaia-gerber-catherine-zeta-jones-carys-douglas-fashion-week-mothers-daughters) . www.vogue.co.uk . 13 September 2017 . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) " (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a15291/chris-craymer-from-the-heart/) '90 Supermodel Niki Taylor Reflects on Life in Front of the Lens" (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a15291/chris-craymer-from-the-heart/) . Harper's BAZAAR . 2016-04-26 . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show Front Row" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/slideshow/front-row#2) . Vogue . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "SPRING 2018" (http://www.marcjacobsdigital.com/spring-2018/#celebrities) . Marc Jacobs . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Niki Taylor is the New Face of Jennifer Fisher Jewelry" (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/news/a19784/jennfer-fisher-spring-collection-niki-taylor/) . Harper's BAZAAR . 2017-01-06 . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Harwood, Erika (8 September 2017). "The Must-See Front Row Sightings at N.Y.F.W." (https://www.vanityfair.com/style/photos/2017/09/new-york-fashion-week-front-row-sightings) Vanities . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) US, HELLO!. "New York Fashion Week 2017: Highlights from the front row, runway and parties - HELLO! US" (http://us.hellomagazine.com/fashion/12017090723903/new-york-fashion-week-september-2017-highlights/2) . us.hellomagazine.com . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Staff, WWD (2017-09-12). "Front Row at Baja East RTW Spring 2018" (http://wwd.com/eye/people/gallery/front-row-at-baja-east-rtw-spring-10983225/#!4/front-row-at-baja-east-rtw-spring-2018-4) . WWD . Retrieved 2017-10-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Matlin, Jessica (2021-04-23). "Niki Taylor Is (Once Again) The Face of Covergirl" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/a36208945/niki-taylor-covergirl-simply-ageless-interview/) . Harper's BAZAAR . Retrieved 2021-10-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Niki Taylor, Tyson Beckford to host Bravo's 'Make Me a Supermodel' (http://www.realitytvworld.com/news/niki-taylor-tyson-beckford-host-bravo-make-me-supermodel-5962.php) " (http://www.realitytvworld.com/news/niki-taylor-tyson-beckford-host-bravo-make-me-supermodel-5962.php) . Reality TV World.com. 2007-10-22. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Niki Taylor, Judges Dropped from Make Me a Supermodel 2 (http://www.realityblurred.com/realitytv/archives/make_me_a_supermodel/2009_Jan_07_cast_changes) Realityblurred.com, January 7, 2009. ^ Jump up to: a b "Niki Taylor Engaged" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070306101614/http://usmagazine.com/niki_taylor_engaged) . US magazine. 2006-10-10. Archived from the original (http://www.usmagazine.com/niki_taylor_engaged) on 2007-03-06 . Retrieved 2007-06-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Model Niki Taylor Weds NASCAR Driver" (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20005541,00.html) . People magazine (/wiki/People_magazine) . 2006-12-29 . Retrieved 2007-06-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) It's a Girl for Niki Taylor! (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20263028,00.html) People, March 4, 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Niki Taylor Picks Motherhood Over Modeling" (http://people.aol.com/people/article/0,26334,1217423,00.html) . people.com. 2006-07-22. ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Niki Taylor Welcomes Son Rex Harrison" (http://celebritybabies.people.com/2011/11/16/niki-taylor-burney-lamar-welcome-son-rex-harrison/) . people.com. 2011-11-16. ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Niki Taylor Brings Adorable Daughter to Marc Jacobs Show While Nicki Minaj Shows Off Major Cleavage" (http://www.etonline.com/niki-taylor-brings-adorable-daughter-marc-jacobs-show-while-nicki-minaj-shows-major-cleavage-87198) . Entertainment Tonight . Retrieved 2017-10-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Model Niki Taylor out of surgery" (http://archives.cnn.com/2001/SHOWBIZ/News/05/03/taylor.surgery/) . CNN (/wiki/CNN) . 2001-05-03 . Retrieved 2007-06-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Stephen M. Silverman (/wiki/Stephen_M._Silverman) (2001-06-27). "Niki Taylor Begins Physical Rehab" (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,622151,00.html) . People magazine (/wiki/People_magazine) . Retrieved 2007-06-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Model Niki Taylor 'I Never Thought I'd Get Pregnant Again' (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20252118,00.html) " (http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20252118,00.html) . PEOPLE.com . External links [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Official website (http://www.nikitaylor.com/) Niki Taylor (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/niki_taylor/) at Fashion Model Directory (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Niki Taylor (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1555754/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) v t e 1990–1999 Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) Swimsuit Issue (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated_Swimsuit_Issue) 1990 Sabrina Barnett (/w/index.php?title=Sabrina_Barnett&action=edit&redlink=1) Michaela Bercu (/wiki/Michaela_Bercu) Anna Getaneh (/w/index.php?title=Anna_Getaneh&action=edit&redlink=1) Rachel Hunter (/wiki/Rachel_Hunter) Kathy Ireland (/wiki/Kathy_Ireland) Estelle Lefébure (/wiki/Estelle_Lef%C3%A9bure) Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) Judit Mascó (/wiki/Judit_Masc%C3%B3) Ashley Richardson (/wiki/Ashley_Richardson) Maria von Hartz (/w/index.php?title=Maria_von_Hartz&action=edit&redlink=1) Louise Vyent 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Semi-formal dress This article may require cleanup (/wiki/Wikipedia:Cleanup) to meet Wikipedia's quality standards (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style) . The specific problem is: Lead section, and beyond. Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Cocktail_dress) if you can. ( June 2018 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Cocktail Party at the Imperial Hotel, March 1961 American cocktail dress, 1950s Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A cocktail dress is a dress suitable at semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal) occasions, sometimes called cocktail parties (/wiki/Cocktail_parties) , usually in the late afternoon, and usually with accessories. After World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) , the idea of the "working woman" became popular. After 1929, it was more common to see women in a social context. With the help of liberation organizations, the idea of a "modern woman" began to emerge, and soon the "drinking woman" could be seen in business settings. [1] (#cite_note-:2-1) Companies increasingly hosted cocktail parties to have an entertaining environment for employees and customers to mingle. These parties usually began after 5:00 P.M. [2] (#cite_note-2) Since guests are expected to walk around and meet people, clothes made for these occasions are often functional and comfortable. This practical and fashionable garment became a popular uniform for progressive elite women in the 1920s. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) History [ edit ] 19th century [ edit ] A dinner dress was a gown (/wiki/Gown) that was worn by ladies in the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) for dinners and parties at homes. It could be very elaborate, but often had long sleeves, a high neck, or a narrow skirt to set them apart from evening gowns (/wiki/Evening_gown) . In the 20th century however, dinner dresses went out of fashion and were replaced by evening gowns for formal dinners (/wiki/Formal_dinner) . 20th century [ edit ] Sketch of French cocktail dress (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/85181?sortBy=Relevance&what=Cocktail+dresses&ft=*&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=12) Italian Cocktail dress, 1960 During the 1920s, French couture's clientele consisted mainly of American department stores that reproduced French designs and promoted French designers. This led French designers to create dresses to appeal to American buyers. [1] (#cite_note-:2-1) Since cocktail parties originated in the United States, French designers created their own version of a cocktail dress. However, unlike the strict, professional cuts of American-styled dresses, the French designed much looser and free flowing beach pajamas, [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) consisting of a silk top and palazzo pants (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) , usually paired with a mid-calf-length wrap jacket or sheath. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) These clothes were usually worn for more exclusive and intimate gatherings. The French style valued simplicity and elegance in their designs, while American-styles valued functionality and efficiency. American clients wanted a single dress that could be modified to fit several times of the day with the use of accessories. [5] (#cite_note-5) The fabric of the dress and whether it was worn with a cocktail hat (/wiki/Cocktail_hat) differentiated a day dress from a cocktail dress. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) By the mid-1920s, hemlines of dresses were just below the knee rather than ankle-length, which was more common for evening gowns (/wiki/Evening_gown) . [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The Great Depression [ edit ] To take account of the economic crisis (/wiki/Great_Depression) , designers such as Muriel King (/wiki/Muriel_King) emphasized the importance of accessories by designing simple dresses, [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) which also helped the market for jewelry, hats, gloves, and sheaths. After the Wall Street Crash of 1929 (/wiki/Wall_Street_Crash_of_1929) , private cocktail parties became more popular than corporate gatherings, as luxurious lifestyles were no longer seen as fashionable. These elite gatherings helped the rise of day-to-evening fashion. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) Post–World War II [ edit ] After World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , Dior (/wiki/Dior) came out with the "New Look", which consisted of a tight waistline, long hemlines, and fuller skirts. This style flattered the female silhouette and created a romantic aura around the aesthetic. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) Since cocktail parties were so popular, American designers such as Anne Fogarty (/wiki/Anne_Fogarty) began to create cocktail dresses that revolved around the "New Look" using less expensive fabrics. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) French designers, such as Dior and Jacques Fath (/wiki/Jacques_Fath) , saw the high market for cocktail dresses and began to design dresses for American department stores. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) With the increasing feasibility and popularity of air travel, French cocktail dresses became popular globally. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) As French women traveled to wealthy resort cities, the designs of their cocktail dresses spread among the American elite. While French couture relied on travel and American department stores, American designers relied on fashion magazines, such as Vogue and Vanity Fair , and the need to dress semi-formally for cocktail hour. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In 1948, Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) labeled this business-casual dress "cocktail dress", which allowed department stores to advertise specifically "cocktail" garments and accessories, increasing the growth of fashion stores. [6] (#cite_note-6) The craze for cocktail culture drove sales in cocktail merchandise as well, such as cocktail and martini (/wiki/Martini_(cocktail)) -printed fabrics. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) Composition [ edit ] The American cocktail dress could be anything from a " little black dress (/wiki/Little_black_dress) " to a floral-printed dress or a plain, short evening gown, as long as it was worn with accessories. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) These might be earrings (/wiki/Earring) , pearl necklaces (/wiki/Necklace) , bracelets (/wiki/Bracelet) , or brooches (/wiki/Brooch) (stylish in the 1950s). [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) However, it was most common to wear costume jewelry (/wiki/Costume_jewelry) . [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) Although they were inexpensive, wearing large amounts was seen as daring and luxurious, especially when wearing a modest dress. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In addition, the jewelry would be worn along with hats: velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , lace (/wiki/Lace) , or horsehair (/wiki/Horsehair) ; little turbans (/wiki/Turban) or close-fitting caps of brocade (/wiki/Brocade) , taffeta (/wiki/Taffeta) , or satin (/wiki/Satin) . [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) Gloves (/wiki/Glove) were mandatory, needed to be fashionably up-to-date, and could be any length, material, or color. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) Shoes were usually high heels (/wiki/High-heeled_footwear) , but evening satin sandals were also common and could be dyed to match the color of the dress. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) Etiquette [ edit ] As cocktail parties became more high-end, the attire became subject to stricter guidelines, which allowed people to easily differentiate between the different identities at the party: the organizer, hostess, and wife. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) There were strict rules of etiquette as women needed to wear gloves, hostesses were not allowed to wear accessories, and guests were required to wear cocktail hats, but never indoors. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) See also [ edit ] Party dress (/wiki/Party_dress) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Cruz, Elyssa da. "Dressing for the Cocktail Hour" (http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/coho/hd_coho.htm) . Metropolitan Museum of Art . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Chaney, Lillian Hunt, and Jeanette St. Clair Martin. The Essential Guide to Business Etiquette . Praeger, 2007. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q Da Cruz, Elyssa Schram. "Cocktail Dress." The Berg Companion to Fashion . Ed. Valerie Steele. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 09 Nov. 2017. < https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/the-berg-companion-to-fashion/cocktail-dress (https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/the-berg-companion-to-fashion/cocktail-dress) >. ^ Jump up to: a b "Les Pyjamas et les robes du studio." Vogue Paris (June 1930): 47. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Evening ensemble" (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/100651?sortBy=Date&deptids=8&ft=cocktail+dresses&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=13) . Metropolitan Museum of Art . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Dirix, Emmanuelle. Dressing the Decades: Twentieth-Century Vintage Style . Yale, 2016. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Milbank, Caroline Rennolds. New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style . Abrams, 1996. 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Woman's dress usually worn to a semi-formal or formal affair For other uses, see Gown (disambiguation) (/wiki/Gown_(disambiguation)) . For a brief history of the gown, see Clothing terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Evening_gown) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Evening gown" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Evening+gown%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Evening+gown%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Evening+gown%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Evening+gown%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Evening+gown%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Evening+gown%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2018 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Maria Grazia Cucinotta (/wiki/Maria_Grazia_Cucinotta) wearing a black evening gown at the Venice Film Festival Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e An evening gown , evening dress or gown is a long dress (/wiki/Dress) usually worn at formal occasions. [1] (#cite_note-dictionary-1) The drop ranges from ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) (mid-calf to just above the ankles), tea (/wiki/Tea_length) (above the ankles), to full-length (/wiki/Skirt_length) . Such gowns are typically worn with evening gloves (/wiki/Evening_gloves) . Evening gowns are usually made of luxurious fabrics such as chiffon (/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) , velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , satin (/wiki/Satin) , or organza (/wiki/Organza) . Silk (/wiki/Silk) is a popular fibre for many evening gowns. Although the terms are used interchangeably, ball gowns (/wiki/Ball_gown) and evening gowns differ in that a ball gown will always have a full skirt (/wiki/Skirt) and a fitted bodice (/wiki/Bodice) , while an evening gown can be any silhouette (/wiki/Silhouette) — sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) , mermaid, fit and flare (/wiki/Fit_and_flare) , A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) , or trumpet-shaped—and may have straps, halters or even sleeves. History [ edit ] Evening gowns shown at a Los Angeles fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) , 1947 Early modern period [ edit ] Evening wear for women, sometimes also known as court dress (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) based on its creation at royal courts (/wiki/Court_(royal)) , has its origins in the 15th century with the rise of the Burgundian court (/wiki/Duchy_of_Burgundy) and its fashionable and fashion-conscious ruler Philip the Good (/wiki/Philip_the_Good) . Wool (/wiki/Wool) , in various weaves, was the most dominant fabric for dresses, and the ladies of the court often simply added a train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) to their kirtle (/wiki/Kirtle) for formal occasions. Rich fabrics and fibres were usually the domain of the nobility, and clothing was used as an identifier of social rank and status. The dawn of the Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance) slowly changed the rigid social rank system, and allowed wealthy Patricians (/wiki/Patrician_(ancient_Rome)) and merchants to visibly display their success. The art of weaving silk was firmly established in the Mediterranean around 1400, and as a result, silk weaves became fashionable for those who could afford them. Dresses for court balls and similar festivities were often made of intricately woven silk and trimmed with expensive furs to highlight the wearer's social status. The vibrant court life of the 16th and 17th centuries, with its focus on art, literature, and music created a fertile environment for feminine formal clothing. Elaborate dinners, dances, and theatre productions allowed fashionable ladies to showcase their finery. The Italian Renaissance (/wiki/Italian_Renaissance) courts were the pinnacle of style and elegance in Europe. With the advent of the Baroque (/wiki/Baroque) era, the focus began to shift to France (/wiki/France) and the court of Louis XIV (/wiki/Louis_XIV) . 17th century court dresses featured draped skirts with long trains, tight bodices, low necklines trimmed with lace, and embroidered, lace- and-ribbon-trimmed, full sleeves. Rich silk weaves, such as satin, taffeta, and velvet created luxurious gowns. In the 18th century, formal dress started as the mantua (/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)) , but later developed into the elaborate sack-back gown (/wiki/Sack-back_gown) . The farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) , popular during the 16th/17th centuries, evolved into the pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) to give dresses and skirts extra volume and the desired court silhouette. White cotton gown, ca. 1804-05 During this entire period, a ball or evening dress was synonymous with court dress (/wiki/Court_dress) , as balls took place at court or in the palaces and salons of the nobility who copied the latest fashions at the courts. Starting with the late 18th century, the term "evening or ball gown" emerged, as balls and formal dances were no longer the sole domain of royals and aristocrats. This was a result of the French Revolution (/wiki/French_Revolution) , which firmly cemented the place of upper-middle and upper class citizens in high society. A common silhouette for evening wear, just as for day wear, was the high-waisted Empire (/wiki/Empire_dress) or Regency (/wiki/Regency_dress) dress. Evening versions featured lower necklines, short sleeves and elaborate fabrics and embroidery. 19th and 20th century [ edit ] Evening styles changed dramatically during the 19th century, and evolved from the relatively simple classically inspired lines of the early decades to progressively fuller skirts and, at times, sleeves (1830s and 1840s). The styles ranged from having huge sleeves in the 1830s, to off-the-shoulder and with wide flounces in the 1840s, to very low-necked in the 1850s, to having low necklines and short sleeves in the 1860s, to long and lean with a bustle and very short sleeves in the 1870s, to sleeveless, low-necked, and worn with opera gloves (/wiki/Opera_gloves) in the 1880s, to having a squared decolletage, a wasp-waist cut, and skirts with long trains in the 1890s. The 19th century distinguished between relatively high-necked dinner gowns for formal dinners and soirees, evening gowns for dances and theatre events, and ball gowns for the most formal affairs including balls and the opera. [2] (#cite_note-2) Lavender evening gown by Irish designer Sybil Connolly (/wiki/Sybil_Connolly) from c. 1970 During the Edwardian era (/wiki/Edwardian_era) , or Belle Epoque (/wiki/Belle_Epoque) , the s-shaped figure was fashionable, which included a very narrow waist. [3] (#cite_note-kyoto-3) Immediately preceding and during World War I, lines became looser and more fluid as a precursor to the boyish silhouettes of the 1920s. Later, in the 1920s, the hemlines of evening gowns rose and cuts were very simple to match the new life style of the Flapper era. The 1930s introduced bias cuts and artificial fibres. Along with the Empire cut, over the years the sheath, mermaid, A-line, and trumpet shapes became popular. Also, the dropped waist and princess styles were popular, depending on the era. Grace Kelly (/wiki/Grace_Kelly) is noted for wearing understated evening gowns. Contemporary fashion [ edit ] Today, the evening gown comes in different silhouettes and even lengths, but the full-skirted ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) remains the pinnacle of formality. Evening gowns are worn at various semi-formal black-tie (/wiki/Black_tie) (and sometimes white tie (/wiki/White_tie) ) functions, including formal dinners, opera and theater premieres, formal dances, evening wedding receptions, and charity balls. See also [ edit ] Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Wedding gown (/wiki/Wedding_gown) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-dictionary_1-0) "Definition of evening gown" (https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/evening%20gown) . Merriam-Webster . Retrieved 27 August 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Stamper, Anita; Condra, Jill (2010). Clothing through American History the Civil War through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899 . Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO. pp. 297–298. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313084584 . ^ (#cite_ref-kyoto_3-0) Iwagami, Miki (2014). Fashion: The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute, A History from the 18th to the 20th Century . Taschen (/wiki/Taschen) . p. 127. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783822812068 . Retrieved 3 September 2017 . External links [ edit ] Evening Dresses at Chicago History Museum Digital Collection (http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/cdm/search/collection/p16029coll3/searchterm/evening%20dress*/field/subjec/mode/all/conn/and/order/title) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120312200451/http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/cdm/search/collection/p16029coll3/searchterm/evening%20dress*/field/subjec/mode/all/conn/and/order/title) 2012-03-12 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) v t e Weddings (/wiki/Wedding) Collective (/wiki/Collective_wedding) Elopement (/wiki/Elopement) Handfasting (/wiki/Handfasting) Same-sex (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) White (/wiki/White_wedding) Pre-wedding Marriage proposal planner (/wiki/Marriage_proposal_planner) Marriage proposal (/wiki/Marriage_proposal) Engagement (/wiki/Engagement) Banns of marriage (/wiki/Banns_of_marriage) Wedding planner (/wiki/Wedding_planner) Bridal registry (/wiki/Bridal_registry) Bridal shower (/wiki/Bridal_shower) 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Adhesive patches worn to cover the nipples and areolae This article is about the nipple covering. For other uses, see Pasty (disambiguation) (/wiki/Pasty_(disambiguation)) . For nipple shields, see Nipple shield (breastfeeding) (/wiki/Nipple_shield_(breastfeeding)) and Nipple shield (jewelry) (/wiki/Nipple_shield_(jewelry)) . Swiss artist Milo Moiré (/wiki/Milo_Moir%C3%A9) performs, wearing pasties and a cut-out bra (/wiki/Bra) top, 2016 Pasties (singular pasty or pastie ) [1] (#cite_note-Partridge-1) are patches that cover a person's nipples (/wiki/Nipple) and areolae (/wiki/Areolae) , typically self-adhesive or affixed with adhesive. They are usually worn in pairs. They originated as part of burlesque (/wiki/Burlesque) shows, allowing dancers to perform fully topless without exposing the nipples in order to provide a commercial form of bare-breasted entertainment. Pasties are also, at times, used while sunbathing (/wiki/Sunbathing) , worn by strippers (/wiki/Stripper) [2] (#cite_note-2) and showgirls (/wiki/Showgirl) , [1] (#cite_note-Partridge-1) or as a form of protest during women's rights (/wiki/Women%27s_rights) events such as Go Topless Day (/wiki/Go_Topless_Day) . In some cases this is to avoid potential prosecution under indecency laws (/wiki/Indecent_exposure) . [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) As well as being used as an undergarment (/wiki/Undergarment) in lieu of a bra, pasties are also worn visibly as a fashion (/wiki/Fashion) accessory where it is desirable to show the breasts but not the nipples, [5] (#cite_note-Bramley-5) and are sometimes called nipple stickers . [6] (#cite_note-6) Pasties are sometimes worn by bikini baristas (/wiki/Bikini_barista) , staff hired to serve coffee from roadside huts while wearing lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) , thongs (/wiki/Thong) , or skimpy swimwear (/wiki/Swimwear) . [7] (#cite_note-7) Design [ edit ] A demonstrator protesting for equal rights for women, wearing a pastie in the form of a nipple, 2011 Pasties come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. [8] (#cite_note-bikiniscience-8) They can be made from a variety of materials, including craft foam (/wiki/Ethylene-vinyl_acetate) , artificial leather (/wiki/Artificial_leather) , buckram (/wiki/Buckram) and plastic (/wiki/Plastic) . [9] (#cite_note-La’Vish-9) Some are skin-colored while others are produced with decorative designs on them. [10] (#cite_note-Bromley-10) They are often smaller in countries such as Japan than they are in America as they are typically not much larger than the areola. [11] (#cite_note-11) No straps are used to hold pasties in place, so they require a tape or glue fixative. This is often gum arabic (/wiki/Gum_arabic) , although other types of glue are sometimes used including liquid latex (/wiki/Liquid_latex) and eyelash extension (/wiki/Eyelash_extension) glue. [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMerril2014184-12) Nevertheless, they can fall off as a result of sweating or movement. [13] (#cite_note-Zoe-13) The burlesque dancer Candy Cotton reported that a pastie she was wearing flew off into the audience during her act. [14] (#cite_note-Zemeckis-14) Pasties are typically designed to be left on for hours rather than days. Removing them can be painful, particularly if they have been left on for too long. Adhesive removers (/wiki/Adhesive_remover) are sometimes used to help remove them, though these are not usually designed for human skin. The adhesive used to attach pasties cause problems for people with sensitive skin (/wiki/Sensitive_skin) . [15] (#cite_note-15) The burlesque dancer Lili St. Cyr (/wiki/Lili_St._Cyr) found that her nipples often hurt when she removed her pasties at the end of the night, and in consequence she watered down the glue that she used. [14] (#cite_note-Zemeckis-14) To reduce the chances of an allergic reaction, modern pasties are mostly attached with glue designed for cosmetic use or are held in place using double-sided fashion tape (/wiki/Fashion_tape) . [16] (#cite_note-16) People with sensitive skin often prefer hypoallergenic (/wiki/Hypoallergenic) nipple covers. The most popular and common type are made from the hypoallergenic polymer silicone (/wiki/Silicone) , rather than materials such as latex (/wiki/Latex) that can cause allergic reactions. [10] (#cite_note-Bromley-10) The availability of suitable adhesives was a necessary precursor to their introduction, and their name derives from the word paste . Modern pasties are often self-adhesive. [5] (#cite_note-Bramley-5) Some are for single-use, while others are washable and can be reused. [10] (#cite_note-Bromley-10) Entertainment [ edit ] Early versions of the pastie were worn by belly dancers (/wiki/Belly_dancer) and exotic performers at the 1893 World's Fair (/wiki/1893_World%27s_Fair) . These consisted of small metal plates covering the front of the breasts, and were often decorated with gems or metallic details where the nipples would be. They were subsequently worn by some circus performers during their acts. [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) The modern form of the pastie first appeared in burlesque (/wiki/Burlesque) and striptease (/wiki/Striptease) in the 1920s as a way to avoid breaking the law by performing topless or nude. Pasties came to be regarded by some as more aesthetic and erotic [8] (#cite_note-bikiniscience-8) as they developed into a way of drawing attention to the breasts and nipples. [18] (#cite_note-18) They were worn in cabarets (/wiki/Cabaret) such as the Folies Bergère (/wiki/Folies_Berg%C3%A8re) and Le Lido (/wiki/Le_Lido) . Burlesque performer Carrie Finnell (/wiki/Carrie_Finnell) is attributed with adding tassels (/wiki/Tassel) which hang from the center and incorporating tassel twirling as part of a performance. [19] (#cite_note-19) Finnell and Sally Rand (/wiki/Sally_Rand) rose to prominence as burlesque performers in the 1920s and 1930s. At that time there was a shift away from pasties decorated with tassels or gems toward nipple-like pasties, making the appearance of nudity more realistic. [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) Skin-tone (/wiki/Skin_tone) fabric was used, with a bead at the centre to represent the nipple. [20] (#cite_note-20) From the early 1930s burlesque performers typically wore pasties and a G-string (/wiki/G-string) , undressing to these [21] (#cite_note-21) as the final reveal of a striptease. [22] (#cite_note-22) The burlesque performer Gypsy Rose Lee (/wiki/Gypsy_Rose_Lee) included pasties as part of her onstage outfit in the 1930s and 1940s, and made adjusting them part of her act. [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) Dancers in US strip clubs continued to wear pasties in the 1950s and 1960s, with Carol Doda (/wiki/Carol_Doda) becoming the first fully topless public dancer in the country at the Condor Club (/wiki/Condor_Club) in San Francisco in 1964. [23] (#cite_note-23) The use of pasties in burlesque and striptease declined during the subsequent decades, but they became fashionable again with the appearance of neo-burlesque (/wiki/Neo-burlesque) in the 1990s and 2000s, worn by performers such as Jo Weldon (/wiki/Jo_Weldon) and Dita Von Teese (/wiki/Dita_Von_Teese) . [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) The Suicide Girls (/wiki/Suicide_Girls) , a troupe that started in 2001 as an homage to Bettie Page (/wiki/Bettie_Page) , included pasties in their live performances. [24] (#cite_note-24) Wearing pasties pays tribute to burlesque performers of the past, and it is also sometimes necessary to allow neo-burlesque dancers to perform in venues that are not licensed for toplessness (/wiki/Toplessness) [9] (#cite_note-La’Vish-9) under local ordinances. [25] (#cite_note-25) The punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) singer Wendy O. Williams (/wiki/Wendy_O._Williams) who performed during the 1970s and 1980s often wore electrical tape (/wiki/Electrical_tape) on stage to cover her nipples. [26] (#cite_note-26) In the 2010s the heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_music) band Butcher Babies (/wiki/Butcher_Babies) briefly copied the look. [27] (#cite_note-27) In the 2014 short film Miley Cyrus: Tongue Tied (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus:_Tongue_Tied) the singer appears with her nipples concealed under black crosses made of nipple tape. [28] (#cite_note-28) In the United States public indecency (/wiki/Public_indecency) laws traditionally required bare-breasted dancers to wear pasties. These restrictions were relaxed in the mid 20th century but still apply in some parts of the country. [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMerril2014184-12) In other parts new laws against nude dancing were introduced in the late 20th century, requiring dancers to wear pasties and a G-string. These laws have been subject to legal challenge on First Amendment (/wiki/First_Amendment_to_the_United_States_Constitution) grounds, arguing that nude dancing is a form of free speech (/wiki/Free_speech) . [29] (#cite_note-29) In Nevada, where public nudity is illegal, entertainers working on the Las Vegas Strip (/wiki/Las_Vegas_Strip) and Fremont Street (/wiki/Fremont_Street) wear pasties to remain within the law. [30] (#cite_note-30) Some strippers have alleged that lawmakers are engaging in cruelty by requiring use of adhesive material on the nipple. In some parts of the US transparent or liquid latex (/wiki/Liquid_latex) pasties are worn by strippers instead of conventional ones [8] (#cite_note-bikiniscience-8) or electrical tape is used to cover the nipples. [31] (#cite_note-31) In 2013 a Texas judge prohibited the wearing of pasties by strippers, requiring instead that they wear more concealing bikini tops. [32] (#cite_note-32) In some parts of the country, such as New York State, alcohol laws (/wiki/Alcohol_laws) require that performers in strip clubs must wear at least pasties and a G-string if liquor is served. [33] (#cite_note-33) Bare-breasted workers in Chicago's topless-only restaurants and strip clubs were legally required to wear pasties or other latex coverings on their breasts until Chicago City Council (/wiki/Chicago_City_Council) changed the city's liquor license (/wiki/Liquor_license) statutes in 2020, removing references to gender. [34] (#cite_note-34) Pasties are also worn at music festivals (/wiki/Music_festival) [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) and raves (/wiki/Rave) , where they are worn alone or under tops that are low cut, open-fronted or made of sheer fabric (/wiki/Sheer_fabric) . They often appear in decorative shapes and designs such as hearts, stars, flowers, aliens or mushrooms. [35] (#cite_note-35) They are also worn at pride parades (/wiki/Pride_parade) , [36] (#cite_note-36) at fetish parties (/wiki/Fetish_club) , [37] (#cite_note-37) and in night clubs. Film actors who do not wish to be filmed nude often use body doubles (/wiki/Body_double) or computer-generated imagery (/wiki/Computer-generated_imagery) for nude scenes, [38] (#cite_note-38) but they sometimes wear pasties for screen roles [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) to give the impression that they are nude. [39] (#cite_note-39) Pasties are also sometimes worn during auditions or interviews for nude scenes. [40] (#cite_note-40) Underwear [ edit ] Pasties are sometimes worn instead of a bra under clothes [5] (#cite_note-Bramley-5) or under swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) to prevent the nipples from being seen through the fabric. Certain cultures have more concern than others about concealing the nipples in this way. In Japan, for instance, pasties (or nipple guards) are widely sold in general retailers such as grocery stores for this purpose. [41] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPaine2011102-41) As an impromptu alternative to commercially produced pasties, two crossed strips of adhesive tape (/wiki/Adhesive_tape) can be used to cover each nipple. [42] (#cite_note-42) Using pasties in this way can be practical when wearing wrap tops (/wiki/Wrap_top) , sports bras (/wiki/Sports_bra) , crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) , garments with low-cut necklines (/wiki/Neckline) , [13] (#cite_note-Zoe-13) and strapless or backless dresses (/wiki/Backless_dress) . [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMerril2014184-12) It can prevent the nipples and areolae being visible through sheer clothing (/wiki/See-through_clothing) [43] (#cite_note-43) or lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) , [44] (#cite_note-Stylelist_News-44) and it can hide naturally protruding nipples or a nipple erection (/wiki/Nipple_erection) . [45] (#cite_note-45) It can also help to protect the nipples if the breasts feel heavy and sore during pregnancy. [10] (#cite_note-Bromley-10) Lift pasties include an additional tab that can be attached above the breast to lift it and hence change its appearance under clothing. [46] (#cite_note-46) Beachwear [ edit ] Pasties worn as beachwear (/wiki/Beachwear) (2007) In the 1960s, fashion designers created the trikini (/wiki/Trikini) , a bikini variant (/wiki/Bikini_variant) consisting of pasties and briefs (/wiki/Briefs) . [47] (#cite_note-47) Pasties are occasionally worn on beaches to maximize a sun tan (/wiki/Sun_tan) by avoiding the strap lines produced by bikinis (/wiki/Bikini) , without the need for toplessness. [12] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMerril2014184-12) Waterproof pasties can also hide protruding nipples under swimwear. [10] (#cite_note-Bromley-10) Fashion [ edit ] During the twentieth century pasties were primarily associated with strippers, but during the twenty-first century they have become popular with celebrities such as musicians and pop stars. They are now worn as fashion accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessories) [48] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESally202132-48) and have been appearing in fashion shows since 2016. [49] (#cite_note-49) As part of the fashion trend called underwear as outerwear (/wiki/Underwear_as_outerwear) they are sometimes worn as a visible part of an outfit, typically in metallic colours rather than flesh tones. [5] (#cite_note-Bramley-5) In this way they have been incorporated into fashion collections by designers such as Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) and Anthony Vaccarello (/wiki/Anthony_Vaccarello) [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) and brands such as Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) . [48] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESally202132-48) Pasties have been worn in this way by the model and actor Cara Delevingne (/wiki/Cara_Delevingne) , the model Bella Hadid (/wiki/Bella_Hadid) , and the pop star Doja Cat (/wiki/Doja_Cat) . [5] (#cite_note-Bramley-5) Other celebrities that have worn them include Miley Cyrus (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus) , Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) , Janet Jackson (/wiki/Janet_Jackson) , Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) , Cher (/wiki/Cher) , Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) , Lil' Kim (/wiki/Lil%27_Kim) [17] (#cite_note-Steinfeld2017-17) and Kendall Jenner (/wiki/Kendall_Jenner) . [48] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESally202132-48) Athletes [ edit ] Runners, surfers, and other outdoor athletes may experience fissure of the nipple (/wiki/Fissure_of_the_nipple) , a chafing (/wiki/Chafing_(skin)) irritation caused by friction with clothing such as a T-shirt. The condition is colloquially known as "runner's nipple". Some people wear pasties to cover the nipple and avoid or mitigate the irritation. When worn under clothing, pasties are sometimes called breast petals, nipple covers or nipple guards. [50] (#cite_note-M&A-50) [51] (#cite_note-51) Gallery [ edit ] Oriental Stories (1931) Fantastic Adventures (1943) Lili St. Cyr (/wiki/Lili_St._Cyr) wearing pasties during a performance in Canada (1946) Neo-burlesque (/wiki/Neo-burlesque) performer Michelle L'amour (/wiki/Michelle_L%27amour) performing a fan dance (/wiki/Fan_dance) wearing pasties and a C-string (/wiki/C-string_(clothing)) (2007) Neo-Burlesque (/wiki/Neo-Burlesque) dancers wearing pasties, New Orleans (2010) American singer-actress Cher (/wiki/Cher) wearing heart-shaped pasties during a concert (2014) A see-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) top worn along with tape being used as pasties by a model at a fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) in the US (2017) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Nudity portal (/wiki/Portal:Nudity) Topfreedom (/wiki/Topfreedom) Merkin (/wiki/Merkin) Vajazzle (/wiki/Vajazzle) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Partridge, Eric (2006). A Dictionary of Slang and Unconventional English . Routledge. p. 858. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781134963652 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Smith, Merril D. (2014). Cultural Encyclopedia of the Breast . Rowman & Littlefield. p. 184. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780759123328 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Carter, Ruth (22 August 2013). "Go Topless Day 2013" (https://carterlawaz.com/go-topless-day-2013/) . Ruth Carter Law Firm . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Go Topless Day Demonstration on Pensacola Beach Sunday" (https://eu.pnj.com/picture-gallery/news/local/pensacola/beaches/2015/08/23/go-topless-day-demonstration-on-pensacola-beach-sunday/32236839/) . Pensacola News Journal . 23 August 2015. ...some of the women traded bras for pasties to cover their nipples as required by the Escambia County municipal code. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Bramley, Ellie Violet (1 June 2022). "Breast in show! How nipple pasties went from underwear to outerwear" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/jun/01/breast-in-show-how-nipple-pasties-went-from-underwear-to-outerwear) . The Guardian . UK. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Kiwi actress Rebecca Gibney on Jennifer Aniston's Allure cover: 'I know I'm sexy' at 57" (https://www.nzherald.co.nz/entertainment/kiwi-actress-rebecca-gibney-on-jennifer-anistons-allure-cover-i-know-im-sexy-at-57/5P5VZRTKHBCHXNEUZ6IEDE4X7I/) . New Zealand Herald . 14 November 2022. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Rock, Lucy (7 February 2018). " (https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2018/feb/07/bikini-baristas-cover-up-coffee-washington-state) 'Bikini baristas' in Washington are told to cover up – is it an issue of free speech?" (https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2018/feb/07/bikini-baristas-cover-up-coffee-washington-state) . The Guardian . UK. ^ Jump up to: a b c "Pasties" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090403164956/http://bikiniscience.com/costumes/soutien-gorge_SS/pasties_S/pasties.html) . Bikini Science . Archived from the original (http://www.bikiniscience.com/costumes/soutien-gorge_SS/pasties_S/pasties.html) on 2009-04-03 . Retrieved 2009-04-11 . ^ Jump up to: a b La’Vish, Rielle (17 July 2018). "Pasties! What are they and how do they stay…there?" (https://www.bombshellacademy.com.au/single-post/2018/07/17/pasties-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-stay-there) . Bombshell Academy . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Bromley, Sarah (8 December 2022). "The 10 Best Nipple Covers to Buy in 2023" (https://beautymag.com/best-nipple-covers/) . Beauty Mag . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Paine, Rhiannon (2011). Too Late for the Festival: An American Salary Woman in Japan . Chicago Review Press. p. 102. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780897339957 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Merril (2014) (#CITEREFMerril2014) , p. 184. sfnp error: no target: CITEREFMerril2014 ( help (/wiki/Category:Harv_and_Sfn_template_errors) ) ^ Jump up to: a b Sylvester, Mackenzie (11 June 2022). "How To Go Braless And Still Feel Supported" (https://www.thezoereport.com/fashion/how-to-go-braless) . The Zoe Report . ^ Jump up to: a b Zemeckis, Leslie (2014). Behind the Burly Q: The Story of Burlesque in America . Skyhorse Publishing. p. 364. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781629148687 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Bose, Debanjali (10 October 2020). "Lizzo shared a video of herself struggling to rip off a 2-day old nipple pasty, but experts say there's an easy fix" (https://www.insider.com/lizzo-instagram-video-struggling-to-remove-nipple-pasty-2020-10) . Insider . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "The Best Nipple Covers, Pasties and Petals Reviewed - Best Pasties" (http://www.bestpasties.com/) . Best Pasties . Retrieved 2016-11-15 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Steinfeld, Sara (11 May 2017). "How Nipple Pasties Evolved From Circus Staple to Coachella Chic" (https://www.allure.com/story/history-of-nipple-pasties) . Allure . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Sally, Lynn (2021). Neo-Burlesque: Striptease as Transformation . Rutgers University Press. p. 32. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781978828100 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Shteir, Rachel (2004). Striptease: The Untold Story of the Girlie Show . New York: Oxford University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-19-512750-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Scott, Coleen (2019). The Costumes of Burlesque: 1866-2018 . Routledge. pp. 2–15. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781351713801 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Shteir, Rachel (2004). Striptease: The Untold History of the Girlie Show . Oxford University Press. pp. 80 & 201. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780195300765 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Parry, Diana C.; Johnson, Corey W. (2020). Sex and Leisure: Promiscuous Perspectives . Routledge. p. 47. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781000289817 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Donchey, Sara (19 November 2022). "Pioneering topless nightclub named a San Francisco 'Legacy Business' (https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/pioneering-topless-nightclub-named-san-francisco-legacy-business/) " (https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/pioneering-topless-nightclub-named-san-francisco-legacy-business/) . CBS News . San Francisco. ^ (#cite_ref-24) Petkovic, John (28 November 2010). "Burlesque: Then and now, a timeline of performers from Lili St. Cyr to Dita VonTeese" (https://www.cleveland.com/entertainment/2010/11/burlesque_then_and_now_a_timel.html) . Cleveland.com . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Thorp, Jessica (2023). Clifford-Napoleone, Amber R. (ed.). Binding and Unbinding Kink: Pain, Pleasure, and Empowerment in Theory and Practice . Springer Nature. p. 189. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9783031064852 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Swanson, Dave (18 January 2016). "40 Years Ago: Wendy O. Williams Arrested For Obscenity" (https://ultimateclassicrock.com/wendy-o-williams-arrested/) . Ultimate Classic Rock . ^ (#cite_ref-27) jomatami (8 August 2021). "Butcher Babies Speak on 'Regret' Over Wearing Nipple Tape, Explain Meaning of Band's Name" (https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/news/general_music_news/butcher_babies_speak_on_regret_over_wearing_nipple_tape_explain_meaning_of_bands_name.html) . Ultimate Guitar . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Miley Cyrus Naked: Singer Strips Off Yet Again In Flesh-Flashing 'Tongue-Tied' Video Clip" (https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2014/05/02/miley-cyrus-naked-tongue-tied-nipples-video-pictures_n_5252515.html) . Huffington Post . 2 May 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-29) McKeever, Robert J. (1995). Raw Judicial Power?: The Supreme Court and American Society . Manchester University Press. p. 234. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780719048739 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Grega, Kelcie (1 September 2019). "Stripped: A guide to nudity laws in Las Vegas" (https://lasvegassun.com/news/2019/sep/01/stripped-a-guide-to-nudity-laws-in-las-vegas/) . Las Vegas Sun . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Smith, Michael D.; Grov, Christian (2011). In the Company of Men: Inside the Lives of Male Prostitutes . ABC-CLIO. p. 160. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313384394 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Walker, Tim (1 May 2013). "Judge exposes Texas strip clubs' lack of cover by ordering larger underwear" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/judge-exposes-texas-strip-clubs-lack-of-cover-by-ordering-larger-underwear-8599728.html) . Independent . UK. ^ (#cite_ref-33) Bentley, Toni (2005). Sisters of Salome . University of Nebraska Press. p. 9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780803262416 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Byrne, John (9 September 2020). "Aldermen approve measure that will allow more nudity in Chicago bars" (https://www.chicagotribune.com/politics/ct-chicago-nudity-in-bars-city-council-20200909-5fnjzhmhv5gydeymgbuvpdr45u-story.html) . Chicago Tribune . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "The Ultimate Guide To Festival Pasties" (https://www.edmfestivalinsider.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-festival-pasties/) . EDM Festival Insider . 24 April 2022 . Retrieved 4 December 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Foreman, Alison (12 June 2021). "How to not let body shame keep you from LGBTQ Pride 2021" (https://mashable.com/article/body-shame-pride-2021) . Mashable . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Stark, Andrew (9 September 2021). "My Safe Word Is Onomatopoeic: Fast Times at Rubber Ball USA" (https://lavendermagazine.com/our-lives/my-safe-word-is-onomatopoeic-fast-times-at-rubber-ball-usa/) . Lavender Magazine . ^ (#cite_ref-38) White, Adam (20 November 2019). "Emilia Clarke suffered in vain: here are 13 famous nude scenes that were actually performed by body doubles" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/films/0/hollywood-movie-nude-scenes-performed-body-doubles/) . Telegraph . ^ (#cite_ref-39) McBain, Diane; Michaud, Michael Gregg (2014). Famous Enough: A Hollywood Memoir . BearManor Media. p. 239. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-59393-576-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Honthaner, Eve Light (2013). The Complete Film Production Handbook . CRC Press. p. 217. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781136053061 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEPaine2011102_41-0) Paine (2011) (#CITEREFPaine2011) , p. 102. ^ (#cite_ref-42) Graham-Jones, Lindsey (22 March 2022). "How Do I Keep My Nipples from Showing Through My Clothing?" (https://www.brit.co/asking-for-a-friend-keep-nipples-from-showing/) . Brit + Co . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "The Age: 15/2/10 - 2010 Allan Border Medal" (https://web.archive.org/web/20111006043154/http://images.theage.com.au/2010/02/15/1123369/600-GALL-BEGG-SS7-600x400.jpg) . Archived from the original (http://images.theage.com.au/2010/02/15/1123369/600-GALL-BEGG-SS7-600x400.jpg) on 6 October 2011 . Retrieved 25 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Stylelist_News_44-0) "Fashionable fake-outs" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090804134022/http://www.stylelist.com/blog/2006/10/03/fashionable-fake-outs/) . Sarah J. Gim . Stylelist.com. Archived from the original (http://www.stylelist.com/blog/2006/10/03/fashionable-fake-outs/) on 4 August 2009 . Retrieved 2009-10-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Gross, Kim Johnson (2010). What to Wear for the Rest of Your Life: Ageless Secrets of Style . Hachette UK. p. 147. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780446558662 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Torgerson, Rachel (12 May 2022). "Every Kind of Sticky Bra Reviewed—So You Don't Have to Stress About It Anymore" (https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/reviews/a54147/sticky-bra-reviews/) . Cosmopolitan . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Ambrose, Gavin; Harris, Paul (2007). The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design . AVA Publishing. p. 180. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9782940373611 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Sally (2021) (#CITEREFSally2021) , p. 32. ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Nipple pasties hit the mainstream in 2016 lingerie trend" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160429205250/https://www.yahoo.com/news/nipple-pasties-hit-mainstream-2016-lingerie-trend-205950157.html?ref=gs) . Yahoo News . AFP. 4 February 2016. Archived from the original (https://www.yahoo.com/news/nipple-pasties-hit-mainstream-2016-lingerie-trend-205950157.html?ref=gs) on 29 April 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-M&A_50-0) Mailler, E.; Adams, B. (2004). "The Wear and Tear of 26.2: Dermatological Injuries Reported on Marathon Day" (https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/38/4/498) . British Journal of Sports Medicine . 38 (4). BMJ Publishing Group Ltd and British Association of Sport and Exercise Medicine: 498–501. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1136/bjsm.2004.011874 (https://doi.org/10.1136%2Fbjsm.2004.011874) . PMC (/wiki/PMC_(identifier)) 1724877 (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1724877) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 15273194 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15273194) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 29112101 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:29112101) . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "Silicone Nipple Covers: Reviews & Recommendations" (http://bestnipplecovers.com/) . Best Nipple Covers . External links [ edit ] Look up pastie (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/pastie) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. 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American adult film director Andrew Blake Blake in 2007 Born 1948 Nationality American (/wiki/United_States) Occupation(s) Film director (/wiki/Film_director) and cinematographer (/wiki/Cinematographer) Years active 1989–Present Known for Adult erotic films (/wiki/Erotic_photography) Website http://www.andrewblake.com (http://www.andrewblake.com) Andrew Blake (born 1948) is an American adult erotic (/wiki/Erotic_photography) film director (/wiki/Film_director) and film producer (/wiki/Film_producer) . Blake has been inducted into both the AVN (/wiki/AVN_Award#Hall_of_Fame) and XRCO (/wiki/XRCO_Hall_of_Fame) Halls of Fame (/wiki/Halls_of_Fame) and is a medal recipient from the Worldfest-Houston International Film Festival for his first film NIGHT TRIPS. Biography [ edit ] Andrew Blake began his career working on movies for Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) , and then for Penthouse (/wiki/Penthouse_(magazine)) but shifted to working independently in the 1990s. Most of Blake's films are released through his own production company, Studio A Entertainment. Andrew Blake is a member of the AVN Hall of Fame (/wiki/AVN_Award#Hall_of_Fame) (200?) and XRCO Hall of Fame (/wiki/XRCO_Hall_of_Fame) (2003). [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Blake's films usually feature original music scores by the composer Raoul Valve (/w/index.php?title=Raoul_Valve&action=edit&redlink=1) . Blake has described his work as " erotic fashion (/wiki/Erotic_fashion) ," and his films usually include fetish (/wiki/Sexual_fetishism) , bondage (/wiki/Bondage_(BDSM)) , and lesbian (/wiki/Lesbian) imagery, often excluding heterosexual (/wiki/Heterosexual) intercourse entirely. [3] (#cite_note-3) Blake's earliest films were primarily works of softcore (/wiki/Softcore_pornography) erotica. Early films made by Blake soon after he came into his own as an independent director are fully explicit and usually combine heterosexual intercourse with lesbian imagery while including much less fetish and bondage content than his later films. [ citation needed ] An interview with Blake is included in the 9 to 5 – Days in Porn (/w/index.php?title=9_to_5_%E2%80%93_Days_in_Porn&action=edit&redlink=1) (2009) documentary film about the American porn industry. [4] (#cite_note-9to5-4) Reception [ edit ] Blake's first major film, Night Trips, (1989), was awarded the silver medal in the Non-Theatrical Release Category at the Worldfest-Houston International Film Festival (/w/index.php?title=Worldfest-Houston_International_Film_Festival&action=edit&redlink=1) . Andrew Blake holds the distinction of being the first adult director to win a film award at a mainstream international film festival. [5] (#cite_note-sfgate.com-5) Blake's films are characterized by high production values, artistic stylization, and rigorous technique. His style has been compared to that of the seminal fashion photographer Helmut Newton (/wiki/Helmut_Newton) , and described as "decadent, lush, opulent, unfailingly arousing, moneyed and sophisticated." [5] (#cite_note-sfgate.com-5) Sex writer Violet Blue (/wiki/Violet_Blue_(author)) says of Blake's work: "It's a whole different genre of explicit erotic filmmaking evident from the first frame -- pure high fashion, glossy candyland fantasy. It is luxuriously designed from nip tip to toe. And it's stylish as hell." [5] (#cite_note-sfgate.com-5) Pop culture [ edit ] Blake has had a significant impact on pop film culture. Blake was the first adult director to win a crossover award with Night Trips filmed in 1989, which won the Silver Award Non-Theatrical Release at the WorldFest-Houston International Film Festival. [6] (#cite_note-6) Blake featured Dita Von Teese (/wiki/Dita_Von_Teese) in a 1999 full-length feature film, Pin-Ups 2 , which portrayed her as a pin-up girl and highlighted her interest in the fetish and kink lifestyle, and the following year in his 2000 film, Decadence, further popularizing her career as a world-leading fetish burlesque star. [ citation needed ] Awards (selected) [ edit ] 1999 AVN Award (/wiki/AVN_Award) "Best All-Sex, Film" ( High-Heels ) 2000 AVN Award "Best All-Sex Film" ( Playthings ) 2002 AVN Award "Best Art Direction Film" ( Blond & Brunettes ) 2002 AVN Award "Best Cinematography" ( Blond & Brunettes ) 2002 Venus Award (/wiki/Venus_Award) "Best Director USA" 2004 AVN Award "Best All Sex Film" ( Hard Edge ) 2004 AVN Award "Best Art Direction Film" ( Hard Edge ) 2004 AVN Award "Best Cinematography" ( Hard Edge ) 2004 AVN Award "Best Editing Film" ( Hard Edge ) 2005 AVN Award "Best Cinematography" ( Flirts ) 2008 AVN Award "Best Editing" ( X ) 2009 AVN Award "Best Cinematography" ( Paid Companions ) [7] (#cite_note-avnwin09-7) 2010 XBIZ Award (/wiki/XBIZ_Award) "Excellence in Progressive Erotica" [8] (#cite_note-XBizwin10-8) 2011 XBIZ Award (/wiki/XBIZ_Award) "Best Editing" ( Voyeur Within ) [9] (#cite_note-9) 2013 AVN Award "Best Photography Website" ( AndrewBlake.com ) [10] (#cite_note-10) 2014 AVN Award "Best Glamour Website" ( AndrewBlake.com ) [11] (#cite_note-11) Filmography (selected) [ edit ] 1989 Playboy: Video Playmate Calendar 1989 1988 Playboy: Sexy Lingerie 1989 Playboy: Sexy Lingerie 1989 Playboy: Wet & Wild 1989 Night Trips 1990 Art of Desire (Desire) 1990 House of Dreams 1990 Night Trips 2 1990 Secrets 1990 Playboy: Video Playmate Calendar 1991 1990 Playboy: The Best Of Sexy Lingerie 2 1991 Playboy: Sexy Lingerie 3 1991 Penthouse: Pet Of The Year Play-Off 1991 1992 HoPin-Ups Live? 1992 Play With Me? 1992 Girls 1992 Penthouse: Satin & Lace 1992 Hidden Obsessions 1993 Penthouse: Satin & Lace II: Hollywood Undercover 1993 Penthouse: Pet Of The Year Play-Off 1993 1993 Girls Of Penthouse 2 1993 Les Femmes Erotiques 1993 Sensual Exposure 1993 Desire 1994 Fantasy Women 1994 Private Property 1994 Penthouse: Pet Of The Year Play-Off 1994 1994 Penthouse: Secret Lives Secret Desires 1995 Sex And Money 1995 Captured Beauty 1995 The legend 1995 Penthouse: Pet Of The Year Play-Off 1995 1995 Playboy: The Best Of Pamela Anderson 1996 Best of Andrew Blake 1996 Miami Hot Talk 1996 Unleashed 1997 Venus Descending (Penthouse) 1997 Dark Angel 1997 Paris Chic 1997 Possessions 1998 Delirious 1998 High Heels 1998 Wet 1998 Wild 1999 Pin-Ups a.k.a. Andrew Blake's Pin-Ups 1999 Pin-Ups 2 a.k.a. Andrew Blake's Pin-Ups 2 1999 Aroused 1999 Naked Kiss 1999 Pin-ups 1 1999 Pin-ups 2 1999 Playthings 2000 Andrew Blake 2000 Part 1 2000 Decadence 2000 Secret Paris 2000 Amy And Julie 2001 Bizarre Woman 2001 Aria (Visual Stimulations) 2001 Blond and Brunettes 2001 Exhibitionists 2002 Girlfriends 2002 Justine 2002 The Villa 2003 Adriana 2003 Dollhouse 2003 Hard Edge 2003 Naked Diva 2003 The Andrew Blake Collection Vol 1 2004 Close-ups 2004 Feel The Heat 2004 Flirts 2005 Andrew Blake 2000 Part 2 2005 Body Language 2005 Teasers 2005 Teasers 2 2006 Sultry - A Carnal Compilation 2006 Valentina 2007 Andrew Blake X 1 2007 Andrew Blake X 2 2008 House Pets 2008 Night Trips A Dark Odyssey 2008 Paid Companions 2009 Smoking hot girls 2009 High strung women 2009 Voyeur Within 2010 Sex Dolls 2011 Five Stars 2011 Five Stars 2012 Lipstick and lace 2013 Sexy girls (2010) [12] (#cite_note-IAFD-12) See also [ edit ] Michael Ninn (/wiki/Michael_Ninn) Helmut Newton (/wiki/Helmut_Newton) Philip Mond (/wiki/Philip_Mond) Radley Metzger (/wiki/Radley_Metzger) Tinto Brass (/wiki/Tinto_Brass) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Hall of Fame" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070814014605/http://www.avnawards.com/halloffame.php) . AVN Awards. Archived from the original (http://www.avnawards.com/halloffame.php) on 14 August 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "XRCO Hall of Fame" (http://www.dirtybob.com/xrco/hall.htm) . Retrieved 24 September 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Andrew Blake: Soft Core Auteur. July 2008 Interview Podcast at AdultDVDTalk,com (http://blog.adultdvdtalk.com/2008/07/andrew_blake_soft_core_auteur.html) . ^ (#cite_ref-9to5_4-0) Staff (2009). "9to5 – Days in Porn (onscreen credits)" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1278293/) . IMDb (/wiki/IMDb) . per the film itself . Retrieved November 26, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b c The Helmut Newton of Porn: Violet Blue interviews Andrew Blake (http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2008/12/18/violetblue.DTL) . San Francisco Chronicle, Dec. 18, 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-6) "WorldFest Houston (1989)" (https://www.imdb.com/event/ev0000708/1989/1/) . IMDb . Retrieved 2018-06-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-avnwin09_7-0) David Sullivan (2009-01-11). "2009 AVN Award-Winners Announced" (http://business.avn.com/articles/34090.html) . AVN.com. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090223020140/http://business.avn.com/articles/34090.html) from the original on 23 February 2009 . Retrieved 2009-01-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-XBizwin10_8-0) Lyla Katz (2010-02-11). "XBIZ Awards 2010 Winners Announced" (http://www.xbiz.com/news/117447?ln=web) . XBiz.com. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100330121349/http://www.xbiz.com/news/117447?ln=web) from the original on 30 March 2010 . Retrieved 2010-02-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "2011 XBIZ Awards Announced Last Night" (http://business.avn.com/company-news/2011-XBIZ-Awards-Announced-Last-Night-426415.html) . AVN.com. 2011-02-10 . Retrieved 2011-02-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "AVN - 2014 AVN Awards Show - History" (http://avnawards.avn.com/past/winners/2013) . Avnawards.avn.com. 2014-01-18 . Retrieved 2014-05-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) AVN Staff (2014-01-19). "AVN Announces the Winners of the 2014 AVN Awards" (http://business.avn.com/articles/video/AVN-Announces-the-Winners-of-the-2014-AVN-Awards-544448.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Retrieved 2014-01-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-IAFD_12-0) Staff. "Andrew Blake, Director" (https://www.iafd.com/person.asp?perfid=AndrewBlake&gender=d) . IAFD . Retrieved 2 January 2014 . External links [ edit ] Andrew Blake - Official Website (http://www.andrewblake.com) . Andrew Blake - Films at andrewblake.com (https://web.archive.org/web/20090614145047/http://store2.andrewblake.com/static/xcart/home.php?cat=250) . Andrew Blake (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0086471/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) . Andrew Blake (https://www.iafd.com/person.rme/perfid=AndrewBlake/gender=d) at the Internet Adult Film Database (/wiki/Internet_Adult_Film_Database) . Andrew Blake - Interview (2008; Podcast) (http://blog.adultdvdtalk.com/2008/07/andrew_blake_soft_core_auteur.html) . 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American fashion designer (born 1963) This article is about the fashion designer. For other uses, see Mark Jacobs (/wiki/Mark_Jacobs_(disambiguation)) . Marc Jacobs Jacobs at the 2017 SXSW (/wiki/SXSW) Born ( 1963-04-09 ) April 9, 1963 (age 61) New York City, U.S. Education High School of Art and Design (/wiki/High_School_of_Art_and_Design) Parsons The New School for Design (/wiki/Parsons_The_New_School_for_Design) Labels Marc Jacobs Marc by Marc Jacobs Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) (1997–2014) Spouse Charly Defrancesco ( m. 2019) Awards Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters (/wiki/Order_of_Arts_and_Letters) (France) Marc Jacobs (born April 9, 1963) is an American fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) . He is the head designer for his own fashion label, Marc Jacobs, and formerly Marc by Marc Jacobs, a diffusion line (/wiki/Diffusion_line) , which was produced for approximately 15 years, before it was discontinued after the 2015 fall/winter collection. [1] (#cite_note-1) At its peak, it had over 200 retail stores in 80 countries. [2] (#cite_note-glam-2) He was the creative director of the French design house Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) from 1997 to 2014. Jacobs was on Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) magazine's "2010 Time 100 (/wiki/Time_100) " list of the 100 most influential people in the world, [3] (#cite_note-3) and was #14 on Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) magazine's 2012 list of " 50 Most Powerful Gay Men and Women in America " . [4] (#cite_note-out-4) He married his longtime partner Charly Defrancesco on April 6, 2019. [5] (#cite_note-5) Early life and education [ edit ] Jacobs was born to a non-observant Jewish (/wiki/Jewish_secularism) family in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) . [6] (#cite_note-New_York_Times_bio-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) When he was six, his father, an agent at the William Morris Agency (/wiki/William_Morris_Agency) , died. His mother, who remarried three times, was, according to Jacobs, " mentally ill (/wiki/Mental_disorder) " and "didn't really take care of her kids." [9] (#cite_note-NewYorker-9) As a teenager, he went to live with his paternal grandmother on the Upper West Side (/wiki/Upper_West_Side) , in an apartment in the Majestic (/wiki/The_Majestic_(building)) on Central Park West (/wiki/Central_Park_West) . [10] (#cite_note-NewYork-10) Jacobs grew up in Teaneck, New Jersey (/wiki/Teaneck,_New_Jersey) , and attended Teaneck High School (/wiki/Teaneck_High_School) . [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) He developed a passion for fashion at a young age. [13] (#cite_note-13) He attended the High School of Art and Design (/wiki/High_School_of_Art_and_Design) and studied at Parsons School of Design (/wiki/Parsons_School_of_Design) in New York. [6] (#cite_note-New_York_Times_bio-6) While at Parsons (/wiki/Parsons,_Kansas) in 1984, he won the Perry Ellis (/wiki/Perry_Ellis) & Chester Weinberg (/wiki/Chester_Weinberg) Gold Thimble Award, and Design Student of the Year. [14] (#cite_note-FMD-14) In 1987, he became the youngest designer ever to receive the Council of Fashion Designers of America's (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent. He also won the Women's Designer of the Year award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1993. [15] (#cite_note-15) Career [ edit ] At age 15, Jacobs worked as a stockboy at Charivari (/wiki/Charivari_(store)) , a now-defunct avant-garde (/wiki/Avant-garde) clothing boutique in New York City. [16] (#cite_note-Voguepedia-16) While studying at Parsons, he designed and sold his first line of hand-knit sweaters. He also designed his first collection for Reuben Thomas, Inc., under the Sketchbook label. With Robert Duffy (/wiki/Robert_Duffy_(businessman)) , Jacobs's creative collaborator and business partner from the mid-1980s, he formed Jacobs Duffy Designs. [17] (#cite_note-032c.com-17) Marc Jacobs logo In 1986, backed by Onward Kashiyama USA, Inc., Jacobs designed his first collection bearing the Marc Jacobs label. In 1987, he was the youngest designer to have ever been awarded the fashion industry's highest tribute, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) 's Perry Ellis Award for "New Fashion Talent". [18] (#cite_note-Bio-18) In 1988, Jacobs and Duffy joined the women's design unit of Perry Ellis (/wiki/Perry_Ellis_(brand)) as creative director/vice president and president, respectively, following the death of its namesake and founder. [19] (#cite_note-19) In addition, Jacobs oversaw the design of the various women's licensees. In 1992, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) awarded Jacobs with The Women's Designer of the Year Award. In the same year, he designed a " grunge (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) " collection for Perry Ellis, which was critically well-received but its commercial failure led to his dismissal. [20] (#cite_note-Vogue-20) A dress Jacobs designed in 2020 in the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) exhibition In America: A Lexicon of Fashion In fall 1993, Jacobs Duffy Designs Inc. launched their own licensing and design company, Marc Jacobs International Company, L.P. [18] (#cite_note-Bio-18) In 1994, Jacobs produced his first full collection of menswear. [21] (#cite_note-Marc_Jacobs-21) In 1997, Jacobs was appointed Louis Vuitton's creative director, where he created the company's first ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) clothing line. [20] (#cite_note-Vogue-20) Jacobs collaborated with many popular artists for his Louis Vuitton collections, including Stephen Sprouse (/wiki/Stephen_Sprouse) , Takashi Murakami (/wiki/Takashi_Murakami) , Richard Prince (/wiki/Richard_Prince) , and Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Marc by Marc Jacobs in Porto (/wiki/Porto) In spring 2001, Jacobs introduced his secondary line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. [16] (#cite_note-Voguepedia-16) In 2005, Look (/wiki/Look_(modeling_agency)) was the Marc by Marc Jacobs ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) license holder in Japan with retail value of €50 million. [23] (#cite_note-Luxury-23) In 2006, Jacobs started a new line of body-splash fragrances (/wiki/Perfume) in ten-ounce bottles which were distributed by Coty (/wiki/Coty_Inc.) . In 2007, filmmaker Loïc Prigent released a documentary film about Jacobs entitled Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton . [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-25) In 2007, Jacobs released his popular Daisy (/wiki/Daisy_(perfume)) collection of perfumes. [26] (#cite_note-26) In February 2008, Jacobs was accused of plagiarizing (/wiki/Plagiarism) a scarf (/wiki/Scarf) design created in the 1950s by Swedish designer Gösta Olofsson. [27] (#cite_note-27) Jacobs settled the matter by offering monetary compensation to Olofsson's son. [28] (#cite_note-28) In 2009, Jacobs launched a shirt, sold at his stores, [29] (#cite_note-29) demanding the legalization of gay marriage (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) . In May 2009, Jacobs co-hosted, with model Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) , a "model and muse"-themed gala for the New York City Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) 's Costume Institute (/wiki/The_Costume_Institute) . [30] (#cite_note-vogue-30) In February 2010, Jacobs sued Ed Hardy (/wiki/Ed_Hardy) for infringing on the designs of one of his embroidered handbags (/wiki/Handbag) . [31] (#cite_note-31) In the course of the Mercedes-Benz (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz) Berlin Fashion Week (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) in July 2011, Jacobs was the patron of the young talent award "Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg (/wiki/Peek_%26_Cloppenburg) ". The five finalists were selected by Jacob and the jury board and received personal coaching by Jacobs. The jury board and Jacobs appointed the winner of 2011 during the DfT award show. [32] (#cite_note-32) In August 2011, it was reported that Jacobs might succeed John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) as creative director of Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior_S.A.) . [33] (#cite_note-33) According to The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) , Jacobs "firmly laid to rest rumours that he was to move to Christian Dior" in January 2012, [34] (#cite_note-34) but rumors prevailed. [35] (#cite_note-35) Jacobs made his feature film acting debut in Disconnect (/wiki/Disconnect_(2012_film)) (2012), directed by Henry-Alex Rubin (/wiki/Henry-Alex_Rubin) and starring Jason Bateman (/wiki/Jason_Bateman) , Paula Patton (/wiki/Paula_Patton) , Alexander Skarsgård (/wiki/Alexander_Skarsg%C3%A5rd) and Andrea Riseborough (/wiki/Andrea_Riseborough) . [36] (#cite_note-36) His character, Harvey, runs a house of teenage Internet porn performers, which is being investigated by a TV reporter, played by Riseborough. [37] (#cite_note-37) In February 2013, Jacobs was named the new creative director for Diet Coke (/wiki/Diet_Coke) . In honor of the brand's 30th anniversary, Jacobs spent a year giving the brand a "stylish and light-hearted" makeover. [38] (#cite_note-38) In March 2013, the New York Daily News (/wiki/New_York_Daily_News) revealed that the " faux fur (/wiki/Fake_fur) " used in many Marc Jacobs garments is actually the fur from raccoon dogs (/wiki/Common_raccoon_dog) from China. [39] (#cite_note-39) In October 2013, after the Spring/Summer 2014 show, it was revealed that Marc Jacobs would leave Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) to focus on his own line. [40] (#cite_note-Confirmed:_Marc_Jacobs_Is_Leaving_Louis_Vuitton-40) On January 9, 2014, it was announced that Jacobs's new Spring/Summer collection would feature actress/singer Miley Cyrus (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus) , photographed by David Sims (/wiki/David_Sims_(photographer)) . [41] (#cite_note-41) On February 26, 2014, it was announced that actress Jessica Lange (/wiki/Jessica_Lange) would be the new face of Marc Jacobs Beauty. In addition, it was announced that Lange would be featured in the brand's Summer/Fall print-ad campaign photographed by David Sims, and would also star in a short campaign film directed by Jacobs, to start streaming online May 5, 2014. [42] (#cite_note-vogue1-42) Previously, Jacobs had dressed and interviewed Lange for Love Magazine ' s fifth anniversary issue, and had her provide a spoken-word version of " Happy Days Are Here Again (/wiki/Happy_Days_Are_Here_Again) " as the soundtrack for his Autumn/Winter 2014 show. [42] (#cite_note-vogue1-42) Jacobs decided to rely on social media to cast models for Marc by Marc Jacobs's Autumn/Winter 2014 campaign, and with its success did so again for Spring/Summer 2015 with photographer David Sims, with models including Aaron Whitty, Abigail Lipp, Amy Woodman, Ana Viktoria, Dylan Stevens, Eb Eunbi, Lindsay Lurgin, MacKenzie Cockerill, Nadia Kishlan, and Toks Adewetan. [43] (#cite_note-43) In February 2018, LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) confirmed that Baja East co-founder John Targon (/w/index.php?title=John_Targon&action=edit&redlink=1) would join Marc Jacobs as "creative director of contemporary". [44] (#cite_note-44) On August 26, 2019, Jacobs was presented with MTV (/wiki/MTV) 's first "Fashion Trailblazer Award" at the Video Music Awards (/wiki/Video_Music_Awards) , in partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) . [45] (#cite_note-45) In September 2020, Jacobs released Heaven, a polysexual (/wiki/Androgyny) line aimed at a younger audience while blurring gender boundaries. All of the garments incorporated brand signatures to celebrate its history, while giving new context towards a newer, younger audience, catered to alternative style. The campaign also featured young rising stars and trend-setters, such as beabadoobee (/wiki/Beabadoobee) and Iris Law (/wiki/Iris_Law) . [46] (#cite_note-46) In February 2023, an editorial shoot went viral. The shoot included a smattering of New York City nightlife legends sitting on an extremely long couch. Models included Memphy (/wiki/Memphy) , Amber Later (/w/index.php?title=Amber_Later&action=edit&redlink=1) , Iris Apatow (/wiki/Iris_Apatow) , Mel Ottenberg (/wiki/Mel_Ottenberg) , Goth Jafar (/wiki/Goth_Jafar) , Anna Sui (/wiki/Anna_Sui) , Riley Hooker, Gabriette, Dean Kissick, and Richie Shazam (/wiki/Richie_Shazam) . The shoot included Marc Jacob as designer, Eloise Parry as photographer, Ava Nirui as creative director, Clare Byrne as fashion editor/stylist, Evanie Frausto as hair stylist, Marcelo Gutierrez as makeup artist, and Bert Martirosyan as casting director. [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) Awards [ edit ] CFDA (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) Womenswear Designer of the Year, 2016 [49] (#cite_note-49) MTV (/wiki/MTV_Video_Music_Awards) Video Music Fashion Trailblazer Award, 2019 [50] (#cite_note-50) Stores [ edit ] Marc Jacobs storefront in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) There were 285 Marc by Marc Jacobs and Marc Jacobs Collection retail locations worldwide as of the summer of 2013. The brand-new Marc Jacobs flagship shop opened in Shanghai in December 2013. Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai) . [51] (#cite_note-51) In order to concentrate on the growth of his primary brand and cater to a more upscale clientele, Jacobs announced the closure of his subsidiary label Marc by Marc Jacobs in March 2015. [52] (#cite_note-52) There are now three sites for Heaven by Marc Jacobs in Los Angeles, New York, and London. Style [ edit ] Explaining his clothes, Jacobs has said "what I prefer is that even if someone feels hedonistic (/wiki/Hedonism) , they don't look it. Curiosity about sex is much more interesting to me than domination... My clothes are not hot. Never. Never." [10] (#cite_note-NewYork-10) The audience for his fashion shows typically includes celebrities such as Kim Gordon (/wiki/Kim_Gordon) and Vincent Gallo (/wiki/Vincent_Gallo) . [53] (#cite_note-53) Guy Trebay, a critic for The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , in response to Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) 's comment that a coat designed by Jacobs closely resembled one that de la Renta had designed thirty years earlier, wrote that "unlike the many brand-name designers who promote the illusion that their output results from a single prodigious creativity, Mr. Jacobs makes no pretense that fashion emerges full blown from the head of one solitary genius". [54] (#cite_note-54) Jacobs was one of the first fashion designers to establish this "street wise aesthetics – a [mash up of] a little preppie, a little grunge, a little couture." [21] (#cite_note-Marc_Jacobs-21) The Marc Jacobs brand has fine arts (/wiki/Fine_art) driven and avant-garde (/wiki/Avant-garde) advertisement (/wiki/Advertising) campaigns, often featuring a group of cultural icons and artists, in lieu of traditional fashion models (/wiki/Model_(person)) in minimally staged settings and photographed by high-profile photographers. In 2015, Jacobs launched a popular lifestyle campaign that featured artists, celebrities, and cultural icons such as Sofia Coppola (/wiki/Sofia_Coppola) , Cher (/wiki/Cher) , Willow Smith (/wiki/Willow_Smith) , Winona Ryder (/wiki/Winona_Ryder) , Daisy Lowe (/wiki/Daisy_Lowe) , and Anthony Kiedis (/wiki/Anthony_Kiedis) . [55] (#cite_note-55) Jacobs revisited this approach for the Marc Jacobs Spring 2016 advertising campaign, describing the concept as a fashion story representing a "series of connected events; a visual narrative. It is a personal diary of people who have and continue to inspire me and open my mind to different ways of seeing and thinking. The spectrum of individuals photographed in our Spring/Summer 2016 ad campaign represent a celebration of my America." He further added that "the people featured in our campaign personify this collection of fashion through their individuality. Collectively, they embody and celebrate the spirit and beauty of equality." The New York Observer called it "the best campaign of the Spring 2016 season," and that "the designer [Marc Jacobs] has handpicked a star-studded cast of his family members [people who are key to the Marc Jacobs brand] to model the Americana gear from this collection," thus making the collection notable. The Marc Jacobs Spring 2016 advertising campaign featured Lana Wachowski (/wiki/The_Wachowskis) , Sandra Bernhard (/wiki/Sandra_Bernhard) , Bette Midler (/wiki/Bette_Midler) , Juliette Lewis (/wiki/Juliette_Lewis) , Christina Ricci (/wiki/Christina_Ricci) , Sky Ferreira (/wiki/Sky_Ferreira) , Bella Hadid (/wiki/Bella_Hadid) , Emily Ratajkowski (/wiki/Emily_Ratajkowski) , Vincent Michaud, [56] (#cite_note-56) [57] (#cite_note-57) Oli Burslem, Milk (/wiki/Milk_(drag_queen)) , and several runway models. [58] (#cite_note-58) Personal life and causes [ edit ] Jacobs has an ongoing project entitled "Protect The Skin You're In", which has celebrities pose nude, with their breasts and frontal area covered, for T-shirts to raise awareness about melanoma (/wiki/Melanoma) ; all sales benefit research at the NYU Langone Medical Center (/wiki/NYU_Langone_Medical_Center) . Some of the celebrities who have posed include Miley Cyrus (/wiki/Miley_Cyrus) , Eva Mendes (/wiki/Eva_Mendes) , Kate Upton (/wiki/Kate_Upton) , Victoria Beckham (/wiki/Victoria_Beckham) , Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) , Hilary Swank (/wiki/Hilary_Swank) , Cara Delevingne (/wiki/Cara_Delevingne) , Debbie McGee (/wiki/Debbie_McGee) , and Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) . [59] (#cite_note-59) On April 4, 2018, Jacobs proposed to his then-boyfriend, Charly Defrancesco, via a flash mob (/wiki/Flash_mob) while in a Chipotle (/wiki/Chipotle_Mexican_Grill) restaurant. [60] (#cite_note-60) [61] (#cite_note-:0-61) The flash mob did a routine to the song " Kiss (/wiki/Kiss_(Prince_song)) " by Prince (/wiki/Prince_(musician)) . [61] (#cite_note-:0-61) They were married in New York City on April 7, 2019. The couple purchased a home in Rye, New York (/wiki/Rye,_New_York) , in April 2019. The Westchester County (/wiki/Westchester_County) home was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright (/wiki/Frank_Lloyd_Wright) and is known as the Max Hoffman House (/wiki/Max_Hoffman_House) . [62] (#cite_note-62) See also [ edit ] LGBT culture in New York City (/wiki/LGBT_culture_in_New_York_City) List of fashion designers (/wiki/List_of_fashion_designers) List of people from New York City (/wiki/List_of_people_from_New_York_City) List of LGBT people from New York City (/wiki/List_of_LGBT_people_from_New_York_City) NYC Pride March (/wiki/NYC_Pride_March) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Frequently Asked Questions | Marc Jacobs" (https://web.archive.org/web/20201025014636/https://www.marcjacobs.com/help) . www.marcjacobs.com . Archived from the original (https://www.marcjacobs.com/help) on October 25, 2020 . Retrieved November 23, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-glam_2-0) "Marc Jacobs" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130619094611/http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/celebrity/biographies/marc-jacobs) . Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/celebrity/biographies/marc-jacobs) on June 19, 2013 . Retrieved January 9, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The 2010 Time 100" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100502135210/http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1984685_1984940_1985522,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . April 29, 2010. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1984685_1984940_1985522,00.html) on May 2, 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-out_4-0) "The Power List" (http://www.out.com/out-exclusives/power-50/2012/04/26/power-list) . Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) . Retrieved October 31, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Marc Jacobs Marries Longtime Boyfriend Charly Defrancesco" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/marc-jacobs-marries-longtime-boyfriend-charly-defrancesco-1199984) . The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . Retrieved September 23, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Wilson, Eric. "Marc Jacobs" (https://www.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/j/marc_jacobs/) . The New York Times . Retrieved April 10, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Jewish Virtual Library – Jewish Biographies -Fashion Icons: "Kenneth Cole" (https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/biography/Fashion.html) retrieved September 7, 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Bloom, Nate (May 21, 2010). "Jewish Stars 5/21" (https://www.clevelandjewishnews.com/archives/jewish-stars/article_8bcbaa8e-2f09-53ac-98ba-cd2207aa8901.html) . Cleveland Jewish News (/wiki/Cleveland_Jewish_News) . ^ (#cite_ref-NewYorker_9-0) Levy, Ariel (September 11, 2008). "Profiles: Enchanted. The transformation of Marck Gustavo Jacobs" (https://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2008/09/01/080901fa_fact_levy?currentPage=all) . The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) . Retrieved September 7, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Larocca, Amy (August 21, 2005). "Lost and Found" (https://nymag.com/nymetro/shopping/fashion/fall2005/12544/index3.html) . New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . Retrieved September 7, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Robb, Adam. "NJ native designers Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, nominated for CFDA Fashion Awards" (http://blog.nj.com/fashiontoday/2011/03/nj_native_designers_marc_jacob.html) , The Star-Ledger (/wiki/The_Star-Ledger) , March 17, 2011. Accessed February 12, 2020. "Jacobs was raised in Teaneck and attended Teaneck High School and McCollough grew up in the New Jersey suburbs. (It's not uncommon for high fashion designers to be vague about their NJ roots.)" ^ (#cite_ref-12) Ruse, Leslie. "Did you know these New Jersey celebrities were engaged?" (https://www.northjersey.com/story/entertainment/2018/08/07/nj-celebrities-who-got-engaged-2018/849024002/) , Daily Record (Morristown) (/wiki/Daily_Record_(Morristown)) , August 7, 2018. Accessed February 12, 2020. "Marc Jacobs, Teaneck - Fashion designer Marc Jacobs, a graduate of Teaneck High School, used a flash mob performance to the Prince song "Kiss" to propose to boyfriend Charly Defrancesco at a Manhattan Chipotle on April 4, 2018." ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Is Marc Jacobs a Luxury Brand? A Full Review 2024" (https://www.fitmodestyle.com/is-marc-jacobs-a-luxury-brand/) . fitmodestyle . January 5, 2024 . Retrieved January 7, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-FMD_14-0) "Marc Jacobs" (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/marc-jacobs/) . Fashion Model Directory . Retrieved September 7, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Marc Jacobs" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/marc-jacobs-biography) . British Vogue . March 6, 2012 . Retrieved March 16, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Marc Jacobs" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140719161512/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Marc_Jacobs) . Voguepedia. Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Marc_Jacobs) on July 19, 2014 . Retrieved September 7, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-032c.com_17-0) Singer, Sally (Summer 2008). "Robert Duffy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110525224728/http://032c.com/2008/robert-duffy/) . 032c (/wiki/032c) . No. 15. Archived from the original (http://032c.com/2008/robert-duffy/) on May 25, 2011 . Retrieved March 1, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Biographie" (http://www.marcjacobs.com/world-of-marc-jacobs/biography/) . Marc Jacobs Website. ^ (#cite_ref-19) Amy Larocca (September 5, 2005). "Lost and Found" (http://nymag.com/nymetro/shopping/fashion/12544/index.html) . New York Magazine . ^ Jump up to: a b Craven, Jo (May 11, 2011). "Marc Jacobs" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/marc-jacobs-biography) . British Vogue . Retrieved September 7, 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Marc Jacobs" (http://nownowagency.com/marc-jacobs/) . Now Agency . September 14, 2020 . Retrieved March 21, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Louis Vuitton – Designer Fashion Label" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121206063446/http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/louisvuitton/) . New York Magazine . New York Media. October 31, 2011. Archived from the original (https://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/louisvuitton/) on December 6, 2012 . Retrieved February 18, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-Luxury_23-0) Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management . Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-118-17176-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) ^ (#cite_ref-25) Feaster, Felicia (March 12, 2008). "DVD: Marc Jacobs, the Pixie" (http://www.nypress.com/article-18024-dvd-marc-jacobs-the-pixie.html) . New York Press. ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Marc Jacobs Adds Another Daisy To His Chain! Meet The New 'Daisy Dream' Fragrance" (https://graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/shopping/marc-jacobs-adds-another-daisy-chain-meet-new-daisy-dream-fragrance/) . Grazia (/wiki/Grazia) UK . Bauer Media Group. November 11, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Marc Jacobs plagiarized my dad's scarf" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080227080523/http://www.thelocal.se/10043/20080219/) . The Local . February 19, 2008. Archived from the original (http://www.thelocal.se/10043/20080219/) on February 27, 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-28) "US Fashion Designer Makes 'Plagiarized' Scarf Payout" (http://www.thelocal.se/10260/20080304/) . The Local . March 4, 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Towleroad: Marc Jacobs T-Shirts Demand Gay Rights for Taxes" (http://www.towleroad.com/2009/07/marc-jacobs-tshirts-demand-gay-rights-for-taxes.html) . ^ (#cite_ref-vogue_30-0) Soto-Ward, Sylvana (May 4, 2009). "It Duo: Marc Jacobs and Kate Moss" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131103023738/http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/vd-it-duo-marc-jacobs-and-kate-moss/#1) . Vogue. Archived from the original (http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/vd-it-duo-marc-jacobs-and-kate-moss/#1) on November 3, 2013 . Retrieved January 9, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Aboutaleb, Britt. "Fashionista" (http://fashionista.com/2010/02/marc-jacobs-sues-ed-hardy-over-embroidered-ugly-nylon-bag/) . Fashionista . Retrieved November 2, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) LifeStyle, ENVOI; Culture, ReFined; PureStyleEdition, LLC | (January 12, 2015). "Marc Jacobs" (https://purestyleedition.wordpress.com/2015/01/12/marc-jacobs/) . PureStyleEdition . Retrieved June 25, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Marc Jacobs may become Dior creative head – report" (https://www.reuters.com/article/lvmh-idUSN1E77M04320110823) . Reuters . New York/Paris. August 23, 2011 . Retrieved September 7, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Blanchard, Tamsin (January 9, 2012). "Marc Jacobs: Not moving to Dior 'was probably best for everyone' (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9001779/Marc-Jacobs-Not-moving-to-Dior-was-probably-best-for-everyone.html) " (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9001779/Marc-Jacobs-Not-moving-to-Dior-was-probably-best-for-everyone.html) . The Telegraph . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Cowles, Charlotte (March 7, 2012). "Marc Jacobs for Dior Rumors Make a Comeback" (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2012/03/marc-jacobs-for-dior-rumors-make-a-comeback.html) . nymag.com . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Ginsberg, Merle (April 8, 2013). "Marc Jacobs Makes Makes His Big Screen Debut in This Weekend's 'Disconnect' (Video)" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/marc-jacobs-makes-makes-his-big-screen-debut-weekends-disconnect-434761/) . The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . Retrieved October 26, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Lee, Chris (April 22, 2013). "Designer Marc Jacobs' film debut is a real 'Disconnect' (https://www.latimes.com/entertainment/la-xpm-2013-apr-22-la-et-mn-disconnect-marc-jacobs-20130419-story.html) " (https://www.latimes.com/entertainment/la-xpm-2013-apr-22-la-et-mn-disconnect-marc-jacobs-20130419-story.html) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . Retrieved October 26, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Marc Jacobs named Diet Coke creative director" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/02/06/marc-jacobs-diet-coke---creative-director---diet-coke-cans-bottles-video) . Vogue . UK. February 6, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Marc Jacobs' 'faux fur' garments actually use the coats of Chinese canines" (http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/fashion/century-21-selling-real-fur-faux-humane-society-article-1.1282382) . March 8, 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-Confirmed:_Marc_Jacobs_Is_Leaving_Louis_Vuitton_40-0) "Confirmed: Marc Jacobs Is Leaving Louis Vuitton" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/10/02/marc-jacobs-is-leaving-louis-vuitton) . Vogue.co.uk. October 2, 2013 . Retrieved October 2, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Miley Cyrus for Marc Jacobs – Spring/Summer 2014 Campaign (Vogue.com UK)" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/1/09/miley-cyrus-for-marc-jacobs-campaign) . Vogue.co.uk. January 9, 2014 . Retrieved March 12, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Jessica Lange: New Face Of Marc Jacobs Beauty (Vogue.com UK)" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/02/27/jessica-lange-new-face-of-marc-jacobs-beauty) . Vogue.co.uk. February 27, 2014 . Retrieved March 12, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "Take a look at the non-model cast for Marc by Marc Jacobs SS15 | Buro 24/7" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150125015037/http://www.buro247.com/me/fashion/news/marc-by-marc-jacobs-ss15-campaign.html) . www.buro247.com . Archived from the original (http://www.buro247.com/me/fashion/news/marc-by-marc-jacobs-ss15-campaign.html) on January 25, 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Marc Jacobs Hires New Designer for Lower-Priced Product Push" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/bof-exclusive/marc-jacobs-hires-new-designer-for-lower-priced-product-push) . The Business of Fashion . February 1, 2018 . Retrieved March 8, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Marc Jacobs Will Receive MTV's First-Ever Fashion Trailblazer Award" (https://www.vogue.com/article/marc-jacobs-will-accept-first-ever-fashion-trailblazer-award-mtv-vmas?verso=true) . Vogue . July 30, 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Say Hello to Heaven, Marc Jacobs' New Polysexual Collection" (https://www.papermag.com/marc-jacobs-heaven-collection-2647538554.html?rebelltitem=3#rebelltitem3?rebelltitem=3) . PAPER . September 9, 2020 . Retrieved June 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) "A Deftones Concert Brought the Heaven by Marc Jacobs Couch Meme to Life" (https://www.gq.com/story/heaven-by-marc-jacobs-deftones-michael-imperioli-couch) . GQ . March 4, 2023 . Retrieved May 16, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 2000" (https://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350950818) . Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 2000 . 2020. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.5040/9781350950818 (https://doi.org/10.5040%2F9781350950818) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 241397279 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:241397279) . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "CFDA Fashion Awards 2016: The Full Winners List!" (http://www.eonline.com/news/770610/cfda-fashion-awards-2016-the-full-winners-list) . June 7, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-50) Weinberg, Lindsay (August 26, 2019). "VMAs: Marc Jacobs Accepts First Fashion Trailblazer Award" (https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/vmas-marc-jacobs-accepts-first-fashion-trailblazer-award-1234264/) . The Hollywood Reporter . Retrieved February 25, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Mistry, Meenal (August 25, 2011). "Fashion's Better Halves" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424053111903918104576500332879275742) . Wall Street Journal (/wiki/Wall_Street_Journal) Magazine . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Marc by Marc Jacobs is no more" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150402163413/http://theminimalista.com/marc-by-marc-jacobs-is-no-more/) . March 24, 2015. Archived from the original (http://theminimalista.com/marc-by-marc-jacobs-is-no-more/) on April 2, 2015. ^ (#cite_ref-53) Trebay, Guy (September 13, 2007). "In This Front Row, Downtown Cred" (https://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/13/fashion/shows/13JACOBS.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Trebay, Guy (May 28, 2002). "Familiar, but Not: Marc Jacobs and the Borrower's Art" (https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B06E3DE133BF93BA15756C0A9649C8B63) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Kosin, Julie (July 8, 2015). "Marc Jacobs Unveils New Video of Cher's Fall 2015 Campaign Shoot" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/home/a11011/cher-marc-jacobs-ad/) . Harper's BAZAAR . ^ (#cite_ref-56) "MODEL" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160822124350/http://www.vincentmichaud.vision/model) . VINCENT MICHAUD . Archived from the original (http://www.vincentmichaud.vision/model) on August 22, 2016 . Retrieved May 28, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-57) "Sites-mjsfra-Site" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211105093033/https://www.marcjacobs.com/adcampaigns/CAMPAIGN_SS16_SET.html?fdid=adcampaigns) . www.marcjacobs.com . Archived from the original (https://www.marcjacobs.com/adcampaigns/CAMPAIGN_SS16_SET.html?fdid=adcampaigns) on November 5, 2021 . Retrieved May 28, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) "Marc Jacobs Casts His 'Family' in This Spring 2016 Ad Campaign" (https://observer.com/2016/02/marc-jacobs-casts-his-family-in-this-spring-2016-ad-campaign/) . The New York Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) . February 2, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-59) "Marc Jacobs Reissues Celebrity "Protect The Skin You're In" Tees To Benefit NYU's Interdisciplinary Melanoma Cooperative Group" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131029194459/http://cancer.med.nyu.edu/news/marc-jacobs-reissues-celebrity-protect-skin-you%E2%80%99re-in-tees-benefit-nyu%E2%80%99s-interdisciplinary-melanoma-cooperative-group) . NYU. Archived from the original (http://cancer.med.nyu.edu/news/marc-jacobs-reissues-celebrity-protect-skin-you%E2%80%99re-in-tees-benefit-nyu%E2%80%99s-interdisciplinary-melanoma-cooperative-group) on October 29, 2013 . Retrieved July 26, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) "Marc Jacobs proposes to boyfriend using a flashmob and it is spectacular" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/love-sex/marc-jacobs-proposal-boyfriend-flash-mob-chipotle-char-defrancesco-new-york-a8289881.html) . The Independent . April 5, 2018 . Retrieved April 5, 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b Jones, Fionnuala. "Marc Jacobs proposed to his boyfriend with a flashmob in a burrito restaurant" (http://www.dailyedge.ie/marc-jacobs-3942821-Apr2018/) . The Daily Edge . Retrieved April 5, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-62) Joyce Chen (April 9, 2019). "Marc Jacobs Drops $9.17 Million on Frank Lloyd Wright–Designed Home Outside NYC" (https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/marc-jacobs-buys-frank-lloyd-wright-designed-home-outside-nyc) . Architectural Digest . Retrieved February 16, 2020 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Marc Jacobs (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Marc_Jacobs) . 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Type of women's garment For other uses, see Bloomers (disambiguation) (/wiki/Bloomers_(disambiguation)) . See also: Victorian dress reform (/wiki/Victorian_dress_reform) Bloomers 1850s' fashion bloomers Type Underwear A pair of bloomers, 1981 Bloomers , also called the bloomer , the Turkish dress , the American dress , or simply reform dress (/wiki/Victorian_dress_reform) , are divided women's garments for the lower body. They were developed in the 19th century (/wiki/19th_century) as a healthful and comfortable alternative to the heavy, constricting dresses worn by American women. They take their name from their best-known advocate, the women's rights activist Amelia Bloomer (/wiki/Amelia_Bloomer) . The name "bloomers" was derogatory and was not used by the women who wore them, who referred to their clothes as the "Reform Costume" or the "American Dress." [1] (#cite_note-Ballots-1) : 128–129 Fashion bloomers (skirted) [ edit ] 1851 caricature of fashion bloomers Bloomers were an innovation of readers of the Water-Cure Journal , a popular health periodical that in October 1849 began urging women to develop a style of dress that was not so harmful to their health as the current fashion. It also represented an unrestricted movement, unlike previous women's fashions of the time, that allowed for greater freedom—both metaphorical and physical—within the public sphere. [2] (#cite_note-2) The fashionable dress of that time consisted of a skirt (/wiki/Skirt) that dragged several inches on the floor, worn over layers of starched petticoats (/wiki/Petticoat) stiffened with straw or horsehair sewn into the hems. In addition to the heavy skirts, prevailing fashion called for a "long waist" effect, achieved with a whale-bone-fitted corset (/wiki/Corset) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Women responded with a variety of costumes, many inspired by the pantaloons of Turkey (/wiki/Turkish_salvar) , and all including some form of pants. By the summer of 1850, various versions of a short skirt and trousers, or "Turkish dress", were being worn by readers of the Water-Cure Journal (/wiki/Water-Cure_Journal) as well as women patients at the nation's health resorts. After wearing the style in private, some began wearing it in public. In the winter and spring of 1851, newspapers across the country carried startled sightings of the dresses. [4] (#cite_note-4) The wearing of bloomers—a woman wearing pants, a men's garment—was a question of power. The symbolism of bloomers was enormous. Men felt threatened by them, and sometimes disparaged women wearing them as " Amazons (/wiki/Amazons) " or "male impersonators". [5] (#cite_note-Dann-5) : 128–129 Bloomer craze of 1851 [ edit ] In a reversal of gender roles, a "bloomer" asks her fiancé's shocked father for consent to marry his son: satirical cartoon from 1852 In February 1851, Elizabeth Smith Miller (/wiki/Elizabeth_Smith_Miller) of Peterboro, New York (/wiki/Peterboro,_New_York) , wore the "Turkish dress" [6] (#cite_note-6) to the Seneca Falls, New York (/wiki/Seneca_Falls,_New_York) , home of Amelia Bloomer (/wiki/Amelia_Bloomer) and her temperance (/wiki/Temperance_movement) journal, The Lily (/wiki/The_Lily_(newspaper)) . The next month, Bloomer announced to her readers that she had adopted the dress and, in response to many inquiries, printed a description of her dress and instructions on how to make it. Her circulation rose from 500 to 3,000. [5] (#cite_note-Dann-5) : 138 By June, many newspapers had dubbed it the "Bloomer dress". [7] (#cite_note-7) During the summer of 1851, the nation was seized by a "bloomer craze". Health reformer Mary Gove Nichols drafted a Declaration of Independence from the Despotism of Parisian Fashion and gathered signatures to it at lectures on woman's dress. [8] (#cite_note-8) Managers of the textile mills in Lowell, Massachusetts, gave a banquet for any of their female workers who adopted the safer dress before July 4. [9] (#cite_note-9) In Toledo, Ohio, 60 women turned out in Turkish costume at one of the city's grandest social events. [10] (#cite_note-10) Bloomer balls and bloomer picnics were held; dress reform societies and bloomer institutes were formed. [11] (#cite_note-11) A grand festival in favor of the costume was held at New York City's Broadway Tabernacle (/wiki/Broadway_United_Church_of_Christ) in September. [12] (#cite_note-12) In August, a woman who had spent six months sailing from Philadelphia around the Horn to California with the reform dress packed in her trunk disembarked to find that the dress had preceded her and was being displayed in the window of a San Francisco dress shop. [13] (#cite_note-13) Bloomers in London [ edit ] Interest in the bloomers was also sparked in England when Hannah Tracy Cutler (/wiki/Hannah_Tracy_Cutler) and other women delegates wore the new dress to an international peace convention in London. [14] (#cite_note-14) Many newspaper reports were dedicated to the controversy the outfit caused. One prominent figure who began to lecture about the bloomers in London and beyond was Caroline Dexter (/wiki/Caroline_Dexter) . [15] (#cite_note-15) When she and her husband later emigrated to Australia (/wiki/Australia) , she continued to advocate for dress reform. Although few women are known to have worn the bloomers in Australia, Dexter's continued support led to controversy in The Sydney Morning Herald (/wiki/The_Sydney_Morning_Herald) . [16] (#cite_note-16) Women's rights [ edit ] Bloomer Costume (Robert Chambers, The Book of Days , 1864) [17] (#cite_note-Chambers-17) The Bloomer also became a symbol of women's rights in the early 1850s. The same women— Elizabeth Cady Stanton (/wiki/Elizabeth_Cady_Stanton) , Lucy Stone (/wiki/Lucy_Stone) , and Susan B. Anthony (/wiki/Susan_B._Anthony) —who adopted the new form of dress also advocated women's right to vote. These women preferred to call their new style the "freedom dress", a two-piece outfit similar to the shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) of Central and South Asia. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) Crowds gathered to not only hear these women's radical words, but also to see their "scandalous" mode of dress. After three years, however, fearing that the new dress was drawing attention away from the suffragist cause, many of these women returned to corsets, long skirts, and more conventional forms of dress. In similar suit, the Dress Reform Association which was formed in 1856 called the outfit the "American costume" and focused on its health benefits rather than its political symbolism. Following the American Civil War, interest in the Bloomer costume waned almost completely until its resurgence in the 1890s. [20] (#cite_note-20) In the 1850s, the "bloomer" was a physical and metaphorical representation of feminist reform (/wiki/Feminist_movement) . This garment originated in late 1849 for the purpose of developing a style of dress for women that was less harmful to their health. Because it was less restricting than the previously popular attire, the bloomer provided more physical freedom for women. Being a completely new and distinctively different form of dress, the bloomer garment also provided women with a metaphorical freedom, in the sense that it gave women not only more diverse dress options, but also the opportunity and power to choose their type of garment. Some individuals at the time even argued that the Bloomer dress should be adopted for moral reasons. A reporter noted that a group of "very intelligent appearing, lady-like women" met in Milford, Massachusetts in July 1852. The purpose of this meeting was to consider the propriety of adopting bloomers. The women unanimously passed a resolution approving the costume, declaring the currently existing fashion to be consistent with "moral evils" and arguing that the bloomer would facilitate women's efforts to engage in good works." [21] (#cite_note-21) And now I'm dressed like a little girl, in a dress both loose and short, Oh with what freedom I can sing, and walk all 'round about! And when I get a little strength, some work I think I can do, 'Twill give me health and comfort, and make me useful too. — The Sibyl magazine, April 15, 1859 [22] (#cite_note-22) Feminists, such as Elizabeth Cady Stanton and numerous others, essentially claimed that women who took on the "feminist dress" look without being fully knowledgeable of all the accompanying issues were imposters. They were concerned that individuals could demonstrate reform without actually being an expert in the issues. In the Sibyl poem, the feeling and element of reform was demonstrated through simplicity and the subtle appreciation of this small step in women's fashion in parallel to a small step for women in general. During the 1850s, feminist reformers were fighting numerous battles to bring about change and further equality to women everywhere. Feminists believed that it was more important to focus on the issues, and that giving in to fashionable trends was exactly what they were battling against. This now popularized simple change in dress symbolically furthered women's liberation. Opposition to Bloomer dress [ edit ] Bloomer's promotion of the style as a freedom dress rather than as a health dress did nothing to recommend it to the orthodox clergy and other critics of the woman's rights movement, who denounced the wearing of pants by women as a usurpation of male authority. [23] (#cite_note-23) Associating it with the woman's rights movement, the New York Sunday Mercury published a woodcarving representing the woman's rights convention held in Akron, Ohio, in May 1851. It depicted every woman in coat, breeches, and high boots, sitting cross-legged and smoking cigars, when in truth not a bloomer was present. [24] (#cite_note-24) Some young women were denied church membership for wearing the dress. [25] (#cite_note-25) Public meetings were called to put down the fad, and the very same newspapers that had previously praised the dress began ridiculing and condemning "Bloomerism". In August 1851, Harper's Monthly reprinted a cartoon and article from a London newspaper ridiculing the American dress, one month after it had printed a sketch of the "Oriental Costume" and pronounced it tasteful, elegant, and graceful. Bloomers in the West [ edit ] Lucy Stone (/wiki/Lucy_Stone) , one of America's most famous orators in the woman's rights movement during the 1850s, helped popularize the dress by wearing it as she addressed immense audiences in over twenty states, the District of Columbia, and Ontario between 1851 and 1855. She had begun wearing the dress as a health measure while recuperating from typhoid fever during the winter of 1850–51, and she wore it exclusively for three years. [26] (#cite_note-26) In 1856 a National Dress Reform Association organized [27] (#cite_note-27) and one of its officers, Dr. Lydia Sayer Hasbrouck (/wiki/Lydia_Sayer_Hasbrouck) , who had worn the dress since 1849, established a journal, The Sibyl , as the society's organ. From July 1856 through June 1864, that paper carried news of dress reform to subscribers from New England to California and published the names of nearly a thousand women who sent in their names as wearers of the reform dress. [28] (#cite_note-28) A letter-writer from Iowa said it was especially suited for life on the prairie and reported that many women from various parts of the state wore it all the time. Readers from Illinois, Arkansas, Michigan, Wisconsin, Kansas, Nebraska, Dakota, and Oregon attested to its popularity among Western women. [29] (#cite_note-29) In 1860, an English traveler reported meeting a bloomer wearer in Laramie, Wyoming, and a traveler to Pike's Peak reported that "the bloomer costume is considerably in vogue and appears peculiarly adapted to overland travel". [30] (#cite_note-30) Civil War nurses and the bloomer [ edit ] When Dorothea Dix (/wiki/Dorothea_Dix) was appointed superintendent of army nurses in June 1861, she issued a statement banning the bloomer from army hospitals and requiring women to abandon it before entering nursing service. But as Western communities organized battalions of soldiers, they also formed corps of volunteer nurses to accompany them, and many of these nurses adopted the reform dress for field service. All members of one such corps, organized by Dr. Fedelia Harris Reid of Berlin, Wisconsin, and called the "Wisconsin Florence Nightengale Union", wore the bloomer not only in the field, but also while caring for patients at a military hospital in St. Louis. Four bloomer wearers were among the nurses who accompanied Minnesota's First Regiment. [31] (#cite_note-31) Dr. Mary E. Walker, who earned the Congressional Medal of Honor for her medical services during the Civil War, wore the reform dress while working in a military hospital in Washington, D.C., as well as for field work. As she accompanied troops in the South, she wrote to the Sibyl that New Orleans women of wealth and standing had worn it to Haiti and Cuba. [32] (#cite_note-32) The dress was still being worn by members of the utopian Oneida Community (/wiki/Oneida_Community) in 1867 [33] (#cite_note-33) but gradually it was abandoned by all but a very few stalwart wearers willing to defy society's mores. Bloomers and bicycles [ edit ] In 1893, the Woman's Congress of the World's Columbian Exposition revived interest in the bloomer as an aid in improving women's health through physical exercise. Their session on women's dress opened with Lucy Stone reminiscing about the bloomer movement of the 1850s; her extolling the bloomer as the "cleanest, neatest, most comfortable and most sensible garment" she had ever worn; and young women modeling different versions of the dress. [34] (#cite_note-34) The following year Annie "Londonderry" Cohen Kopchovsky (/wiki/Annie_Londonderry) donned the bloomer during her famous bicycle trip around the world, and an updated version of the bloomer soon became the standard "bicycle dress" for women during the bicycle craze of the 1890s. [35] (#cite_note-35) In 1909, fashion designer Paul Poiret (/wiki/Paul_Poiret) attempted to popularize harem pants (/wiki/Sirwal) worn below a long flaring tunic, but this attempted revival of fashion bloomers under another name did not catch on. Athletic bloomers (unskirted) [ edit ] 19th and 20th centuries [ edit ] During the late 19th century, athletic bloomers (also known as "rationals" or " knickerbockers (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) ") were skirtless baggy knee-length trousers, fastened to the leg a little below the knees; at that time, they were worn by women only in a few narrow contexts of athletic activity, such as bicycle-riding, gymnastics, and sports other than tennis (see 1890s in fashion (/wiki/1890s_in_fashion) ). Bloomers were usually worn with stockings and after 1910 often with a sailor middy blouse. Bloomers became shorter by the late 1920s. In the 1930s, when it became respectable for women to wear pants and shorts in a wider range of circumstances, styles imitating men's shorts were favored, and bloomers tended to become less common. However, baggy knee-length gym shorts fastened at or above the knees continued to be worn by girls in school physical education classes through to the 1950s in some areas. Some schools in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) and Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) still wore them as part of their uniforms into the 1980s. In Japan their use persisted into the early 2000s. [36] (#cite_note-36) The Bloomington, Illinois (/wiki/Bloomington,_Illinois) , entry in the Three-I League (/wiki/Illinois%E2%80%93Indiana%E2%80%93Iowa_League) of minor league baseball (/wiki/Minor_league_baseball) , despite being an all-male team, was tagged with the nickname "Bloomers" for several decades in the early 1900s. Bloomers in Japan [ edit ] Known as buruma (ブルマ), also burumā (ブルマー), bloomers were introduced in Japan as women's clothing for physical education (/wiki/Physical_education) in 1903. [37] (#cite_note-37) After the 1964 Summer Olympics (/wiki/1964_Summer_Olympics) in Tokyo, in response to the styles worn by the foreign women athletes, a newer style of bloomers, pittari, which fit the body closer, similar to volleyball (/wiki/Volleyball) uniforms, became commonplace. Around the mid-1990s, however, schools and individuals began to choose sports shorts instead, citing modesty (/wiki/Modesty) concerns. [38] (#cite_note-38) Some people are interested in bloomers in clothing fetish (/wiki/Clothing_fetish) context. [39] (#cite_note-39) Gallery of athletic bloomers [ edit ] An example of late 19th-century athletic bloomers: the Smith College (/wiki/Smith_College) class of 1902 basketball team 1890s caricature of athletic bloomers Gymnasts in Stockholm, Sweden. Early 20th century. Undergarments [ edit ] Women's baggy underpants fastened to just below or above the knee are also known as "bloomers" (or as " knickers (/wiki/Panties) " or "directoire knickers"). They were most popular from the 1910s to the 1930s but continued to be worn by older women for several decades thereafter. More recently, the term bloomers has often been used interchangeably with the pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) worn by women and girls in the early 19th century and the open-leg knee-length drawers (/wiki/Open_drawers) of the mid 19th and early 20th centuries. See also [ edit ] Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Knickerbockers (clothing) (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) The Bloomers were supported by the National Dress Reform Association (/wiki/National_Dress_Reform_Association) , founded in 1856. [40] (#cite_note-40) Shalwar Kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_Kameez) Sirwal (/wiki/Sirwal) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Ballots_1-0) Dann, Norman K. (2016). Ballots, Bloomers and Marmalade. The Life of Elizabeth Smith Miller . Hamilton, New York (/wiki/Hamilton,_New_York) : Log Cabin Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780997325102 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Greig, Catherine Smith & Cynthia (2003). Women in pants: manly maidens, cowgirls, and other renegades . New York: H.N. Abrams. p. 28. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0810945715 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Water-Cure Journal , reprinted in Lily , March 1851. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Reprints in Lily , March, May, June 1851. ^ Jump up to: a b Dann, Norman K. (2016). Ballots, Bloomers and Marmalade. The Life of Elizabeth Smith Miller . Hamilton, New York (/wiki/Hamilton,_New_York) : Log Cabin Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780997325102 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Elizabeth Cady Stanton's husband wrote to her, asking, "How does Lib Miller look in her new Turkish dress?" Henry B. Stanton to Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Stanton Papers, Library of Congress, Film 1:68. ^ (#cite_ref-7) To assertions that she was the innovator of the dress, Bloomer replied: "The first we heard of it, it was worn as an exercise dress at the Water-Cures; the first article we saw advocating it was an editorial in the Seneca County Courier , [Jan. 1851], which article we transferred to our columns; the first person we saw wearing such a dress was Mrs. Charles D. Miller of Peterboro, daughter of Gerrit Smith, who has worn it for the last five or six months", Lily , June 1851, p. 45. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Liberator , July 1851, p. 124. ^ (#cite_ref-9) Lowell Courier , reprinted in Lily , July 1851, p. 53. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Toledo Republican , reprinted in Lily , August 1851, p. 60. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Lily , Aug., Oct., Nov. 1851 ^ (#cite_ref-12) Water-Cure Journal , August 1851. ^ (#cite_ref-13) Tinling, Marian, "Bloomerism Comes to California", California History 61 (spring 1982): 21. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Lily , Nov. 1851. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Urwin, Tiffany (2000). "Dexter, Dextra, Dextrum: The Bloomer Costume on the British Stage in 1851". Nineteenth Century Theatre . 28 (2): 91–113. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1177/174837270002800201 (https://doi.org/10.1177%2F174837270002800201) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 193319585 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:193319585) . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Stevenson, Ana (2017). " 'Bloomers' and the British World: Dress Reform in Transatlantic and Antipodean Print Culture, 1851–1950". Cultural & Social History . 14 (5): 621–646. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/14780038.2017.1375706 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F14780038.2017.1375706) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 165544065 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:165544065) . ^ (#cite_ref-Chambers_17-0) Chambers, Robert (1864). The Book of Days: A Miscellany of Popular Antiquities in Connection with the Calendar, Including Anecdote, Biography, & History, Curiosities of Literature and Oddities of Human Life and Character . Vol. 2. London: W. & R. Chambers. pp. 113 (https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_K0UJAAAAIAAJ/page/n124) . Retrieved 3 December 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly (12 June 2019). "When American Suffragists Tried to 'Wear the Pants' (https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2019/06/american-suffragists-bloomers-pants-history/591484/) " (https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2019/06/american-suffragists-bloomers-pants-history/591484/) . The Atlantic . Retrieved 26 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Fischer, Gayle V. (2001). Pantaloons and Power: Nineteenth-Century Dress Reform in the United States . Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. pp. 79–80. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Greig, Catherine Smith & Cynthia (2003). Women in pants : manly maidens, cowgirls, and other renegades . New York: H. N. Abrams. p. 28. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0810945715 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Kriebl, Karen. "From Bloomers to Flappers: The American Women's Dress Reform Movement, 1840–1920." Electronic Thesis or Dissertation. Ohio State University, 1998. OhioLINK Electronic Theses and Dissertations Center. 18 Apr 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-22) Fischer, Gayle V. (Spring 1997). "Pantalets and Turkish Trowsers: Designing Freedom in the Mid-Nineteenth-Century United States". Feminist Studies . Vol. 23, no. 1. pp. 110–40. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2307/3178301 (https://doi.org/10.2307%2F3178301) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 3178301 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/3178301) . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Noun, Louise, "Amelia Bloomer, A Biography, Part I, The Lily of Seneca Falls", Annals of Iowa , 7 (winter 1985), pp. 598–99; Tinling, p. 24. ^ (#cite_ref-24) History of Woman Suffrage , 1: 815. ^ (#cite_ref-25) New York Daily Tribune , reprinted in Lily , July 8, 1851, p. 6. ^ (#cite_ref-26) Million, Joelle, Woman's Voice, Woman's Place: Lucy Stone and the Birth of the Women's Rights Movement . Praeger, 2003. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-275-97877-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-275-97877-X) , pp. 114, 135, 159–62. ^ (#cite_ref-27) Liberator , March 14, 1856, p. 44; Water-Cure Journal , April 1856, p. 81. ^ (#cite_ref-28) The Sibyl , July 15, 1859, pp. 588–89 ^ (#cite_ref-29) The Sibyl , July, August, 1856 ^ (#cite_ref-30) Tinling, p. 23. ^ (#cite_ref-31) The Sibyl , May 1, June 1 and 15, July 15, Oct., 1861 ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Letter from Dr. Walker", The Sibyl , Nov. 1862, p. 1092. ^ (#cite_ref-33) Holloway, Mark, Heavens on earth: Utopian Communes in America, 1680–1880 , Dover Publications, 1966, p. 192. ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Dress Her Theme", Chicago Times , May 17, 1893. ^ (#cite_ref-35) Marks, Patricia, Bicycles, Bangs, and Bloomers: The New Woman in the Popular Press , University Press of Kentucky, 1990. ^ (#cite_ref-36) http://www.chaipin.edu (http://www.chaipin.edu) [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-37) Allen Guttmann and Lee Thompson, Japanese sports: a history , University of Hawaii Press, 2001, pp. 93ff. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8248-2414-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8248-2414-8) . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Ichiro Takahashi, et al., Social History of Bloomers: a Vision to Physical Education (/wiki/Physical_Education) for Women (in Japanese) , Seikyūsha (/wiki/Seiky%C5%ABsha) , 2005, chap. 4. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 4-7872-3242-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/4-7872-3242-8) . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Gordenker, Alice, "So, What the Heck Is That? Buruma" (http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2011/02/17/reference/bloomers/) , The Japan Times (/wiki/The_Japan_Times) , 17 February 2011, p. 14. ^ (#cite_ref-40) Cunningham, Patricia A. (2003). Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850–1920: Politics, Health, and Art . Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. Libris länk. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0873387422 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0873387422) . 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