Understanding knitting patterns and charts

In This Chapter

Deciphering knitting patterns and charts Becoming a savvy pattern buyer its you know, knitting is made up of stitches, rows, decreases, and increases. You can ¥ \ make it all up as you go along, of course, but if you want to repeat someone else’s work, you either have to be by her side the whole time (which might be okay if that knitter is your mom) or you have to come up with a way of translating the knitting onto paper. Just as a composer must write notes on a staff so that someone else can play his music, a designer must describe her work in a way that others can understand and imitate.
So, over the centuries, knitters have developed their own system of writing down knitting instructions in patterns. Most knitting patterns follow a certain set of conventions regarding how things are organized. They also share a unique vocabulary, a set of abbreviations, and even a specialized notation system called symbol craft.
The ability to read knitting patterns fluently won’t happen overnight. But knowing what to expect definitely helps. In this chapter, I explain the various abbreviations and symbols that you’ll encounter in knitting, and I also describe all the parts of a knitting pattern and how to assess them before you start knitting.

Deciphering Knitroglyphics

Knitting patterns can be written out in complete sentences, they can be written very concisely with lots of abbreviations, or they can be represented in a chart. You’ll encounter all of these styles as you move from knitting pattern to knitting pattern. Read through the following sections so that you know what to expect from knitting patterns written in these various styles.

Understanding common terms and abbreviations

Especially for new knitters, knitting patterns can seem like they’re written in a foreign language. They’re made up of lots of abbreviations, strange grammar, and words you may have never heard before. In the end, however, you’ll probably only encounter a handful (or a couple of handfuls) of abbreviations regularly. Knitting language really has a small vocabulary (and no future imperfect tense to grasp!), so if you get a handle on the following common terms and abbreviations and what they mean, you can always look up the rest. Most places that you find knitting patterns, such as knitting magazines, topics, and Web sites, you also find a glossary. Look for it if you’re stuck! Also remember that the way that patterns are written differs among different resources. Some patterns use all the abbreviations in Table 4-1; others use only a few abbreviations and more everyday language.

Table 4-1 Common Knitting Abbreviations
Abbreviation Translation Abbreviation Translation
alt alternate as set continue knitting, following any regularly repeating pattern you’ve begun
beg begin(ning) BO bind off (cast off)
cab cable CC contrasting color
cm centimeters cn cable needle
CO cast on cont continue(ing)
dec decrease(ing) dpn(s) double-pointed needle(s)
EOR every other row foll following
g grams inc increase(ing)
k knit k tbl knit through back of loop
k2tog knit two together (a decrease) kfb knit into front and back of stitch (an increase)
knitwise as if to knit LT left twist
m meter(s) m1 make 1 stitch (an increase)
MC main color meas measures
mm millimeters mult multiple
oz ounces p purl
p2tog purl two together (a decrease) patt(s) pattern(s)
pfb purl into front and back of stitch (an increase) pm place marker
psso pass slipped stitch(es) over purlwise as if to purl
rem remaining rep repeat
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rnd(s) round(s)
RS right (public) side(s) RT right twist
sc single crochet skp slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (a decrease)
s2kp slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over (a double decrease) sk2p slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over (a double decrease)
sl slip sl st slip stitch
Abbreviation Translation Abbreviation Translation
ssk slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit, then knit those 2 stitches together (a decrease) st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop(s)
tog together w&t wrap and turn (used for short rows; see Chapter 12)
work even work without increasing or decreasing WS wrong (non-public) side(s)
wyib with yarn in back wyif with yarn in front
x times (for example, “12 x” means “12 times”) yd(s) yard(s)
yo yarn over (an increase) * * repeat directions between * * as many times as indicated
[ ] repeat directions in brackets the number of times specified

So how do you interpret a pattern that uses abbreviations? Here’s an example. A bit of a knitting pattern might read like this:
CO 21 (31, 41) sts. Work in garter st for 6 rows. Switch to St st and inc 1 st at each end EOR 6 (7, 8) x. Work even until piece meas 6″. BO rem sts.
Before you continue reading, you might take a minute or two to translate this sample using the terms and abbreviations in Table 4-1, and then you can read through my translation. In plain English, this bit of pattern text says:
Cast on 21 stitches for the smallest size, (31 stitches for medium size, 41 stitches for the largest size). Work in garter stitch (knit all rows) for 6 rows. Switch to stockinette stitch (knit right-side rows, purl wrong-side rows) and increase 1 stitch at each end of every other row 6 times for small (7 times for medium, 8 times for large). Work without increasing or decreasing until the piece measures 6 inches. Bind off remaining stitches.
In knitting patterns, numbers for the various sizes covered in the pattern are given with the smallest size first and the other sizes following in parentheses and separated by commas like this: 21 (31, 41) stitches. If you’re knitting the second size, you may want to circle the second number in each set to help you stay on track.
You may be wondering why knitting patterns use so many abbreviations. In short, the person writing the pattern is trying to economize on space because printing is expensive, and knitters would rather have more patterns, even if they have to practice deciphering the code a bit to get used to it.
If you struggle to read knitting patterns, before you pick up the needles, write the instructions out on paper in words that you understand.

Following a repeating pattern

Many knitting patterns have a stitch pattern that’s repeated. So, in addition to directions like “Cast on 24 stitches” or “Work until your piece measures 12 inches,” you may have directions that repeat over a set number of stitches in a row (using asterisks to show you what to repeat) and over a set number of rows (the pattern will tell you which rows to repeat, such as “Repeat Rows 1-6 until the piece measures 12 inches.”).
To use such directions, work Row 1 as described, repeating whatever comes between the two asterisks until you get to the end of the row. For instance, if Row 1 says “*K2, p4, k2, repeat from * to end,” you knit 2 stitches, purl 4 stitches, and knit 2 stitches, and then repeat the whole sequence (because the asterisk is before the first k2) until you reach the end of the row. From there, you move on from Row 1 and work Row 2 as described. When you get though all the rows of the pattern, you simply go back to Row 1 and work through all the rows again.
Note that, often, the knitting in different rows is the same. So the directions may say “Rows 1, 3, and 5: *K2, p4, k2, repeat from * to end.” Just remember what row you’re on and find its row number in the directions.
If you have trouble remembering your row, or if you’re knitting somewhere with lots of distractions, it helps to use a tool to remind you of what row you’re on. You can either make a tally mark on a scrap of paper at the end of each row or you can make a small investment in a row counter. A couple of different styles of row counters are available; some you can attach to your knitting needles and some you just keep at your side. In any case, remember to advance the counter at the end of each row. When you get to the end of the pattern repeat, reset the counter and start again.

Reading charts and symbol craft

While many patterns are written out in what is, more or less, English, another approach to conveying the necessary information for all or part of a pattern is to represent it as a chart where each box is equal to one stitch. With this approach, you can map out an entire sweater graphically and not have to use any words at all. For complex color patterns you may show the whole sweater in a chart, but more often only significant parts of a pattern are mapped out on the chart. In this case, the chart is used alongside the written directions. Charts are most often used for things like lace or ornate color work, which are much more difficult to understand when presented only as text.
The funny little slashes, Vs, and circles used in these charts are known as symbolcraft. You can see some typical symbols and what they mean in Figure 4-1. But do remember that designers use different fonts, so the symbols aren’t always exactly the same (but they should be similar enough that you can recognize them). Every chart you work with, however, should provide a key that explains the symbols used in the chart.
Sometimes there’s a darkened box in a knitting chart. This box stands for “no stitch” and means that you should simply pretend that the box isn’t there at all and move on to the next one. The “no stitch” boxes are there as placeholders to account for stitches that are increased or decreased elsewhere in the pattern.
Symbolcraft — knitting's secret code.
Figure 4-1:
Symbolcraft — knitting’s secret code.
When you read a knitting chart, know that the chart will always show the public side of the work, so the same symbol is read differently on right-side and wrong-side rows. For instance, the symbol that stands for “knit” on right-side rows stands for “purl” on wrong-side rows (since a purl worked on the wrong-side is the same as a knit from the right-side). Follow these general steps to make your way through a chart:
1. When working a right-side row, start reading the row at the bottom right corner and work your way across to the left, exactly as you knit.
The first box is the first stitch that you work; the second box is the next stitch you work; and so on down the line. When you finish your first row, you turn your knitting around so that you’re looking at the wrong side.
2. On the next row (assuming that you’re knitting back and forth rather than knitting in the round, which I cover in Chapter 11), you need to read the chart the opposite way (left to right).
The chart shows the right side, but because you’re on the wrong side, you do the opposite. For instance, if you see a knit symbol, you should actually purl. The good news is that wrong-side rows tend to be the easier ones. So, you won’t have to flip much around in your head.
Some charts don’t show the wrong-side rows. If your chart only shows Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, and so on, look carefully at the written directions to find out how to work the wrong-side rows. In many lace patterns, for instance, the wrong-side rows are just purled, so it’s unnecessary to show them on the chart.
3. Follow the chart for as many rows as needed until you finish your piece.
Refer to the written directions in the pattern to find out when to start and stop following the chart. You may need to repeat the charted pattern more than once.
In the following sections, I walk you through the process of reading three specific types of knitting charts: cable, lace, and color.

Cable charts

Cable patterns are usually represented in chart form. Common cables include four-stitch left and right cables and six-stitch left and right cables; other types of cables, such as horseshoe cables, build on these basics (see Chapter 6 for cable details).
Typical cable charts show the background stitches for the cable, how many stitches are involved in the cable, how frequently you turn the cables, and in which direction to turn them. Looking at Figure 4-2, you can see that there are 8 stitches involved in the horseshoe cable in the center of the chart flanked by columns of purl stitches on either side. The horseshoe cable is made up of a left-twisting four-stitch cable directly next to a right-twisting four-stitch cable.
The first 2 rows in Figure 4-2 are simply knits (the empty boxes) and purls (the boxes with black dots). The third row is the turning row (and it’s a right-side row). To work this third row, follow these steps, as shown in the chart:
1. Purl 3 stitches (represented by the three black dots).
2. Work a four-stitch left cable.
A charted left cable is always drawn as a slanted line from the bottom right corner to the top left corner. To work a left cable, hold the cable needle in the front.
3. The next 4 stitches in Row 3 make a four-stitch right cable.
A charted right cable is always drawn as a slanted line from the top right corner to the bottom left corner. To work a right cable, hold the cable needle in the back.
4. Finish up your cable row by purling the last 3 stitches, as shown in Figure 4-2.
The next 3 rows are again just knits and purls, and then you repeat the turning row in Row 7. The pattern concludes in Row 8 with more knits and purls.
A cable pattern presented in chart form.
Figure 4-2:
A cable pattern presented in chart form.

Lace charts

Lace patterns are often easier to read as charts. Even though they don’t look exactly like the knitted piece, if you squint hard enough, you should be able to see the basic structure of the lace in the chart. A written description of what to do in terms of knits, yarn overs, and ssk’s doesn’t readily give you the same picture in your head (though, of course, following the written directions will give you the same result). After you’re comfortable reading lace charts, you’ll likely find it quicker and easier to knit lace from a chart than from written instructions.
As you find out in Chapter 6, lace is made up of yarn overs (abbreviated yo), which simultaneously form holes and increases, and decreases (typically k2tog and ssk) to make up for all those increases. The lace patterns in this topic all feature “plain” wrong-side rows — that is, rows without any decreases or yarn overs.
If you look at Figure 4-3, you’ll notice right away that every other row is empty. This means that every wrong-side row is purled — definitely something to look for if you’re a beginning lace knitter! On Row 2, you begin with a knit, and then work a right-leaning decrease (k2tog) followed by a yarn over. This increase/decrease unit keeps your stitch count constant. The next stitch is a knit, followed by another lace unit, this one slanting the opposite way (yo, ssk). Most lace is made up of these increase/decrease units, though the yarn overs and their corresponding decreases aren’t always right next to each other. Sometimes, as you can see in Rows 4 and 8, you have two increases and a double decrease as a unit. In this case, yo, sk2p, yo. Again, the increases and decreases balance each other out so that your piece maintains its shape.
In lace knitting, it’s very important to remember what row you’re on. Some lace patterns have stitch counts that vary from row to row, but none of the patterns in this topic do this, so your stitch count should always be the same at the end of each row. If it isn’t, go back and see if you can spot your mistake. If you have too many stitches, you may have missed a decrease. If you have too few stitches, you likely skipped a yarn over somewhere. If you can’t find and fix your mistake, simply unknit the row to one of those plain purl rows and knit the row over.

Color charts

This topic uses two sorts of color charts: Fair Isles and mosaics. Fair Isle, or stranded, knitting patterns use two colors for each row and often use several colors to create a pattern. Mosaics use two colors, but only one at a time and they tend to create very geometric patterns. Check out Chapter 7 for general information about color work.
A color chart will use one symbol to stand for each color. Refer to the key to find out which symbol stands for which color. Typically, color work is done over stockinette stitch, though there are exceptions. In this topic, you’ll always knit the right-side rows and purl the wrong-side rows as you follow the color chart. Always read through the written directions for the pattern before you dive into the chart; that way you know what comes next.
A lace pattern presented in chart form.
Figure 4-3:
A lace pattern presented in chart form.
Figure 4-4 shows a charted color pattern. The outlined box is the pattern repeat (the motif that’s worked over and over); the stitches outside the box are worked only at the beginning and end of the row as selvedge stitches. These extra stitches help center the pattern on your knitting. This pattern, which is ten rows long, is a four-stitch repeat with 3 extra stitches. As text, the first row would read, “K1 MC, *k1 CC1, k3 MC, repeat from * to the last 2 sts, k1 CC1, k1 MC.” Note that on the chart, the even-numbered rows are labeled on the left side to remind you where to start reading them. To work Row 2, you read from left to right and you purl all the stitches because it’s a wrong-side row. As text, this row reads, “P2 CC1, *p1 CC1, p1 MC, p2 CC1, repeat from * to last st, p1, CC1.”
Continue working through all 10 rows shown on the chart. If the pattern is meant to be repeated, you start again on Row 1. If it’s a border or something that’s worked only once, carry on with your main color.
A color pattern chart.
Figure 4-4:
A color pattern chart.

Try Before You Buy! Spot-Checking Patterns

As someone who reads knitting patterns all the time and helps other knitters choose patterns to knit, I can say that not all knitting patterns are perfect. And whether you find a pattern in a topic, in a magazine, on the Internet, or scrawled in your grandmother’s handwriting, look it over before you start knitting. You should choose a pattern that suits you; and make sure it’s one that you feel confident knitting. Particularly if you’re new to knitting, consider asking around your knitting group or the yarn shop to see if others have knit the pattern before. If you come across a direction that seems to be a mistake, check the publisher’s (or yarn company’s) Web site — these companies often publish errata.
Even if a pattern is 100 percent correct, remember that it may not be the right pattern for you. Take a minute to look over the pattern (and not just at the pretty pictures!) before you buy the pattern and the yarn. The following sections provide some easy steps to take to decide if a pattern is right for you.

Are all the parts there?

Every knitting pattern should have the following parts:
Materials: This list tells you what you need in order to knit the project, including needles, yarn (the kind and the amount), and other materials, such as stitch markers or a crochet hook. See Chapter 1 for details about knitting supplies.
Gauge information: This information, which is sometimes labeled “tension,” tells you the gauge that you need to knit at. If you’re substituting yarn, compare the pattern’s gauge in stockinette stitch to the gauge listed on the yarn’s label. Sometimes a pattern will list a gauge measured over a pattern stitch instead of stockinette stitch, so be sure to read carefully! (Check out Chapter 2 for the scoop on gauge.)
Size: The finished dimensions of the project should be written out or given in a diagram. Flip to Chapter 3 for general information about sizing.
Directions: The pattern directions should have subheadings for all the parts of the finished piece, such as back, right front, left front, sleeves, and so on. It’s also customary to find finishing information that tells you how to sew the pieces together and make and attach any details, such as buttonbands or tassels. Make sure that none of these parts is missing. For instance, if the picture of the garment shows a hood, there should be directions for making the hood.
If everything seems to be accounted for, move on to the next step. If any of the parts are missing, I suggest that you find another pattern or see if the missing parts are available as errata.

Do you understand the directions?

Pick a part of the pattern and begin reading it. Does it make sense? Can you follow all the steps without getting lost? If there are a couple of new things that you feel ready to try, go ahead and go for it; a pattern that excites you is the perfect way to improve your skills. But if you really can’t make heads or tails of it, you’re probably wise to choose something else to knit.

Does the pattern come in your size and style?

Before you choose a pattern and a size to knit, you must know what size you are! Check out Chapter 3 to find out more about how and why you should take your measurements. Don’t simply assume that you’re a medium or a large. Look at the range of sizes offered and see if the pattern comes in a size that will fit your specific measurements. If the sweater won’t fit, it isn’t the pattern for you — no matter how much you may like it. Think about what it is that you like in the design and look for another pattern with some of the same elements that comes in your size. And remember that if it’s the cable up the front or the stitch pattern used at the sleeves, you may be able to add these to a pattern that suits your body better.
Now a few words about style. A beautiful picture accompanying the pattern of a hand-knit garment can do funny things to your brain. By looking at a picture of the finished product, you may think that knitting a specific sweater could make your chest larger, make your hair curlier, or put you that much closer to the sun-drenched beach in the picture. Unfortunately, that isn’t the case. And, because you can’t try on handknits before you make them, sometimes it’s difficult to know whether you’re going to like what you get. So, when choosing a pattern, be aware of the styles that suit you and the ones that don’t. The fact that you’ve knit it yourself probably won’t change your feelings about bulky turtlenecks or sleeveless tops; if you never wear them, don’t knit them.

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