This dish employs a Vietnamese technique that uses sugar to create a unique sauce that balances sweet and bitter flavors. Here the seasonings are a little different, adding a bit of heat and acidity to the mix. Serve this with simply cooked whole grains, like millet, barley, or wheat or rye berries.

Serves 4

1   cup sugar  

1/4   cup sherry vinegar  

2   tablespoons minced garlic  

1/2   cup chopped red onion  

1 1/2   to 2 pounds any winter squash or sweet potatoes or yams or any waxy potatoes, cleaned and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)  

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper  


Put a large, deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid (preferably non-stick or cast-iron) over medium heat and add sugar and a tablespoon or two of water. Cook, gently shaking pan occasionally, until sugar liquefies and begins to bubble, about 10 minutes. Cook for another minute or so, until melted sugar darkens; turn off the heat. Mix the vinegar with 3/4 cup water; carefully, and at arm's length, add the liquid and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring constantly, until the caramel melts into the liquid, about 2 minutes.

Add garlic and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, about 5 minutes. Add squash, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and stir to coat.

Turn heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook, undisturbed, for about 3 minutes. Uncover the pan, stir, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and the squash can be pierced easily with a fork, about 10 minutes.


Stir in the chile. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

From "How to Cook Everything Vegetarian" by Mark Bittman (Wiley, 996 pp., $35)