AJ Perry: Bakery business outgrew kitchen

By For The Columbus Dispatch  • 
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Ryan M.L. Young | COLUMBUS CEO
AJ Perry in front of her Sassafras Bakery in Worthington

When AJ Perry was laid off from her job as a graphic designer, she turned to a skill she had honed her whole life — baking.

Perry, who spent countless hours in the kitchen with her mother while growing up on a farm in north central Ohio, wondered if she could make a living with her baking know-how.

“We had a huge garden,” said Perry, who has no formal culinary training. “My mom made everything from scratch.”

Perry sharpened her baking skills through 4-H, watching PBS cooking shows and working in kitchens during high school.

In July 2007, she carted dozens of cookies, scones and cinnamon rolls to the Gahanna Farmers Market and quickly sold out. She returned week after week and found continued success. She named the fledgling business Sassafras Bakery. A few months later, she took a stand at the Worthington Farmers Market. She expanded her offerings to include brownies, granola bars, pies and muffins. She continued to supplement her income with freelance graphic-design work.

Perry, who grows the herbs she adds to her dishes, cultivated relationships with farmers. She found locals who could supply her with fresh fruit, honey and quality dairy products. She committed to using local ingredients and sustainable business practices.

Perry also landed some wholesale clients that wanted to sell her goods in area stores and restaurants. By 2011, she no longer needed to do graphic-design work. She focused on growing her bakery business. Continuing to work out of her Gahanna home, she hired people to help her label and package her goods.

“I just had a regular home oven, which was challenging,” she said. “I spent a lot of time waiting.” Perry began looking for a storefront. This summer, she opened a bakery and cafe on High Street in downtown Worthington.

With the help of investors, she signed a lease, bought equipment and renovated the space (formerly Blue Frost Cupcake). The bakery’s warm yellow walls, antique decorations and custom tables and countertop create an inviting atmosphere.

Since opening, Sassafras has added quiche and coffee to its menu. The bakery also sells Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams.

Q: Where do your recipes come from?

A: Some of them are old family recipes. Some I just make up. Some are from cookbooks or are adapted from cookbooks. Once you know the rules of cooking, you know how to break the rules.

Q: What about baking appeals to you?

A: It appeals to all the senses. It’s the sights and sounds and smells from the raw ingredients. Creating something from the raw ingredients — making it into a complete product, making it look beautiful and taste amazing.

Q: How does your experience as a graphic designer impact your food and your business?

A: Primarily, it helps me with the design — doing my own design work from the logo to photography; having an eye for presentation and the finished product.

Q: How will owning a bakery with a professional kitchen impact your work?

A: Already I’ve noticed the production capacity is immensely increased. The reach to the audience is increased. I used to receive phone calls asking, “Where is your shop located? Can I come browse the counter?” People can come in and browse the counter.

Q: What are your plans for the wholesale side of your business?

A: I’m maintaining my current customers. I’d like to add a few more, maybe do some slow growing. My focus is on retail and private orders.

Q: Do you have any products for corporate clients?

A: I’ve done assorted baskets at Christmastime for corporate clients. I’ve done sugar cookies for meetings, or brownies or breakfast trays.

Q: How important is it to you to work with local growers and vendors?

A: It’s something I value very much for a number of reasons: the taste, the ease of getting the product. It isn’t sitting on a truck for who knows how long. It builds the economic engine if the dollars stay local. It helps everybody out. Knowing the growers and producers is important to me.

Q: What is your favorite thing to make?

A: All of it. I don’t like to choose favorites.

Q: What will you miss about working the farmers market?

A: I still consider that I’m there because it happens right at my front door. The customers that came for the last six years are coming through the door.

Q: Why did Worthington appeal to you as a home for your business?

A: I was at the farmers market for so long. I had built a solid community base. It is such a friendly, walkable community. The community really does like to support local business.