

Step 1: check your water temp

For this to work at all you need to have cold incoming water. The colder the better. Get a standard waterproof thermometer and run your outside water for a while and find out what temp it is. This probably will not work in places where you have a municipal water supply unless its from a cold source. Also you need to have enough ground to water so you don't water log your garden and lawn. It will probably work best in rural areas.
With the fan turned off and the water running outside the temp of my copper pipe is 48F (Infrared non contact thermometer reading)
<p>Technically it should be called a heat exchanger, we lovingly call it the water cooler, but it has been providing us with free cold air for more than 20 years now so it definitely does work.</p>
I suppose if you did this somewhere water was scarce you could dump it back down underground.
<p>15 years ago I did the same thing in Alaska, the outside temp was around 80 and humid( uncomfortable for me) . What I did was take a device called a modine heater ( shop heater that uses boiler water) and ran my 37 degree well water through it. The temp differential between the front of the machine to the back was over 10 degrees lower measured with digital lab thermometers. In alaska water is plentiful, I am not sure I would use this in california. I think you have a great homemade design. Look up Modine , I think you will like it. </p>
<p>I think a more efficient use of this cold water would be to cool the condenser coils on a traditional air conditioner. You could use much less water, possibly drawn from the well with a solar powered pump. Water source heat pumps are really efficient.</p>
<p>Hi, i hope no one gets mad at me for posting another climate control thread but im sort of lost and driving in winter with no defrost is killing me. My climate control seems to work fine but no air will come out of the vents. It sounds as though the motor is working at all speeds when i turn it on but pretty much no air comes out of any vents. I hear everything clicking on when i turn on the Air Conditioning system, and i know its not a clogged interior filter. It almost sounds as though it is trying to pull air through but isnt being allowed to because the motor seems to go up and down in rpms as if the intake for the air is clogged. Ive checked all fuses with a electrical tester so its not those. I guess it may be the FSU but i didnt think my case sounded like the others i read. It seems like a vent somewere isnt opening for the air to come in, any help?</p>
sounds like a blend door. it could be the motor for the blend door or the linkage is broken also if its powered by vacuum check for leaks or disconnected lines.
you're talking about auto a/c if I'm not mistaken...might be a bad &quot;blend door&quot; motor. Google &quot;blend door&quot; issues.
<p>Or you can pump the water back in the well.....</p>
<p>Sorry, blightcp - The <strong>British thermal unit</strong> (<strong>BTU</strong> or <strong>Btu</strong>) is a traditional unit of energy equal to about 1055 joules. It is the amount of energy needed to cool or heat one <strong>pound</strong> of water by one degree Fahrenheit. A US liquid <strong>gallon of water</strong> weighs about 8.34 pounds - better recalculate!</p>
<p>If I remember right 1 btu is the energy to heat 1 gallon by 1 degree.</p><p>at 48F to 72F is a 24F change. 250 gallons of water an hour equals a 6000 Btu/h ac</p><p>So you need a 4.1 gallons a min flow rate to achieve the goal of 6K. That sounds about right for a well pump. </p><p>And <br>pulling that water up from a deep well takes a decent amount of <br>electricity from a well pump.</p><p>My 6000BTU window AC pulls about 450W. The well pump pulls more than that. </p><p>The only way this is cost effective is if you are already using the <br>water, as the poster is. Unless you recirculate the water back into the <br>well, there is an enormous amount of water needed for this to work. </p><p>But it does work and, it could also help a water heater use less energy also by pre-heating the input water. You could get a double savings there by both cooling the room and putting that heat into the water before the water heater.</p>
<p>This is a great way to save money while still benefiting from air conditioning. I will definitely have to try this. Thanks for your help!</p><p>Dorthy Packer | &lt;a href='http://www.jandsheatingandair.ca/en/services.html' &gt; http://www.jandsheatingandair.ca/en/services.html&lt;/a&gt;</p>
Awesome. Thank you for posting this. I might try this <a href="http://www.summersandsmith.ca/air_conditioning.html" rel="nofollow">air conditioning in Richmond Hill</a>. Hopefully it works for me.
Wow this is such a good idea! You definitely know your cooling. Do you think you could make a post about how to do a <a href="http://airtigers.com/air_conditioning_tune_up.html" rel="nofollow">air conditioning tune up</a>? It's really hot where we live in Bollingbrook IL, and I think our AC could really use a tune up. Thanks!
This awesome! I'm going to have to try this on my <a href="http://www.northumberlandrefrigeration.ca/about_us.html" rel="nofollow">heating and cooling in Cobourg</a>. I could save so much money this way. Thanks for sharing!
This is so great. I can totally use this for <a href="http://stucksheatingcooling.com" rel="nofollow">kansas city heating and cooling</a>.
Thanks for sharing this article, really interesting. I have heard of people making there own <a href="http://www.snellingcompany.com" rel="nofollow">heating and cooling st Paul</a> but never have I seen it. As a college student, I don't think I would mind trying it to save on a few bucks. Looks like a fun project that would actually work!
We were just searching for <a href="http://www.wmcarroll.com" rel="nofollow">commercial heating &amp; cooling in New Mexico</a>. I would like to try this out though. I love working on projects.
Thanks so much for sharing this! This seems to be very creative! I have been looking into <a href="http://stucksheatingcooling.com" rel="nofollow">kansas city heating and cooling</a> to help me with my repairs but I didn't know there was this much to do! can you tell me where i can find more ideas and tips like this?
mind blowing project i have also developed one similar to this it works ! bu i used good quality heatsinks and only one table fan but i am really surprised to see that it can also be made by some general household things! <br>awesome! <br>regards! <br>Samad Haque
Wow! Great article! If you ever get tired of making your own A/C, check out this website to get more info. <br> <br>http://www.nrsolheatpumps.com
Have you thought about connecting this to a traditional Air conditioner air handler and use a thermostat to trigger your well pump? Great Idea though, wish it work here in South Florida. <br> <br>I would think that the more efficient air handler with a blower would enable you to do the same thing using less water.. <br> <br>Awesome project!
This is a great idea! We happen to have a few old cooler consender and A/C coils (I guess also known as &quot;heat exchangers&quot;). I followed the setup here and it DOES work! Now, I have an old Everstar &quot;portable air conditioner&quot; that doesn't cool very well I figured it would look a lot more &quot;asthetic&quot; and it already has the fan built in. What I want to do is retrofit that into one of these coolers. Could anybody offer suggestions on how to do this if I put some pictures up? I also would need help with modifying the electronics - I just want to use BOTH exchangers withe the fans on at the same time. <br> <br>Thanks!
My question is ... How warm is the water when it reaches the garden? Is the hose laid on the ground after it leaves the cooler(which would make the water hotter)? I was just wondering the temp of the water that is coming out of the &quot;cooler&quot; as to determine if all the &quot;coolness&quot; is extracted from the water. I guess ideally you would only want the coldest air extracted but if the temp on exit is still the same more air flow and a larger &quot;Radiator&quot; could really make cold! Of course, flow rate is a major factor and I wanna couple this with drip irrigation and a large GARDEN :) This is an awesome idea! I had thought about it, but had not put it to work. Much praise 'ol mighty inventor, people such as yourself are the last line of defense in energy corruption.
plz tell me these pipes go in room fan or some other thing thanks
Old i know, but just a thought... <br>If your water starts at 50F and you lose at most 15deg in the process, you should still be well under ambient temps and be able to reuse the same water (granted, at lower efficiency). <br>Times when you are only using 1 sprinkler and therefore have low flow you could have a recycle valve to loop the same water through several times before it is ultimately used. <br>Have you thought of/ experiment with this? It's hard to guess how effective it would be as there are so many variables, but it seems solid on paper
wow could you use painters tarp for the water leaks in case
I haven't had any water leaks. There is condensation, just like on a glass of ice water in a warm room. But my climate is pretty arid and dry so condensation is usually only a problem a few times in the summer. If it was a constant problem I would look for better solution but I have been going on the &quot;if it isn't broke, don't fix it&quot; thinking for now.
That would be illegal in most states simply because of contamination risk
My great grand-dad (I&nbsp;only know from the stories of my grand-dad) had a large &quot;sisturn&quot;&nbsp;(that's how granddad says it) behind his house that collected rain water. Basically it was a big deep hole that was dug and then concreted and he pumped this water out and ran it through some 30's filtering system and actually had indoor water at a time where most people still were drinking out of the river (at least in TN). If someone had the land and equipment needed to do it, you could build a deep &quot;sisturn&quot; and pump water into it, and cover it with concrete. then build another one close by. They could run the water from one to another, and once one was dry the other would be cool enough to use.
The water ran down the large pipe, Into smaller pipes to build up pressure as the water approached our house. <br><br>do people actually think that pipe size influences water pressure in that way? small pipes will reduce the pressure as they restrict the flow.<br><br>The way I understand it is that water pressure is determined by height of drop not pipe size.<br><br>just my two cents worth no big deal :P
@ josephlebold. eyrobot is correct. As a fluid [liquid or gas] flows through a pipe there is FRICTION between the flowing fluid and the pipe wall. <br> <br>The longer a pipe run, the more &quot;friction loss&quot; and both flow rate and pressure are REDUCED. <br> <br>To correct for this friction loss, piping systems are TAPERED smaller and smaller consistant with the length of the pipe run. <br> <br>To SEE evidence of this phenomenon, the next time you are in a Wal-Mart, or any large building with EXPOSED ceiling FIRE SPRINKLER systems, &quot;eyeball&quot; the piping system and you'll see the &quot;tapering down&quot; of the plumbing. That way, ALL sprinkler heads receive the same amount and pressure of water, AND therefore provide a nearly identical spray pattern when in operation.

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