Historically Significant Watch

© Hamilton

Historically Significant Watches

Watch Snob: Buying Watches That Have Real History


Quartz Patek?

Dear Snob,

I saw a used Patek Aquanaut for a reasonable price, but the specs said it had a quartz movement. Has Patek ever used quartz or was that a mistake? If not a mistake, would acquiring a quartz-run Patek be a crime against nature? Buying used is the only way for a Knob like me to acquire a fine timepiece, but I don't want to cheat my way in.


Historical Significance

Dear Snob,

I have been wanting to start a watch collection for years and now have the money to do so. I am sick of seeing everyone wearing a Rolex. I want to be different than these people and somewhat unique. I like watches with historical significance and was thinking of buying a Hanhart 1939 Fliegerchronograph or a Hamilton Pan Europ 1971. What are your views on these watches? My price limit is $5,000.

If you like watches with historical significance, why are you looking at modern replicas instead of the real historical pieces? Both the Hanhart Fliegerchronograph and the original Hamilton Pan-Europ are available on the vintage market, both for less than your meager price limit. Both are far more authentic than the modern versions, which have as much historical significance as a Florida Bible theme park.

The Hanhart’s historical significance is a rather sordid one, having been worn by Hitler’s air force, but it’s your conscience, not mine, and to the victors go the spoils, I suppose. I’ve always found the Pan-Europ to be a rather ugly timepiece — oversize, awkward and garish. But it was a true product of its age, the ‘70s being a decade style frowned upon. The new version is even uglier, if that’s possible, and it lacks the telltale left-side crown of the original, which was one of the first auto-winding chronographs. So not only does it lack historical significance, it doesn’t even do a good job of mimicking it.

Ironically, pretty much any Rolex will hold more historical significance than either of your two choices since Rolex product development rivals the glaciers in their ponderous pace. Buy a Datejust, and you get pretty much the same watch as you would get in 1972. Now that’s historical significance. Except that Rolex has raised the price tenfold.

Question from a Watch Knob


Why does everyone think slapping the "Swiss made" label on a dial is some magical remedy for mediocrity? The Swiss are just as capable of producing rubbish as any other country, as anyone who has read even a handful of my columns knows.

The dirty secret is that “Swiss made” just means the majority of the watch’s value is derived from components made by those mountain-dwelling cheese-eaters. That’s not hard to do when the cases are stamped out in Asian sweatshops for pennies. Display these watches in some moody lighting in an expensive-looking display case and Fossil can expect the bleating masses to swoon as they open their wallets. It will take a lot more than the label on the dial to make me reconsider Fossil.


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