Edition: U.S. / Global

FOOD; A Taste of Corsica

Published: December 9, 1990
(Page 2 of 2)

2. In a large, heavy casserole, heat the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the lamb. Raise the heat to high and brown the lamb on all sides. Sprinkle in the flour and stir and saute for 1 minute or until the flour adheres to the meat. Add the olives, tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme and crushed garlic. Season sparingly with salt and pepper. (The olives are salty.) Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Transfer the lamb, olives and the liquid to a deep serving bowl. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Serve with boiled potatoes or steamed rice.

Yield: Six to eight servings. CHEESE AND MINT TART 1/2 pound of Brin d'Amour (see note) or a semi-hard American goat cheese 8 sprigs fresh mint, leaves removed and finely chopped 3 whole eggs Salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon butter 1/2 recipe pate brisee (see recipe) 3 duck sausages, cooked and sliced, or 1/4 pound liverwurst, sliced.

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. Place the cheese and the mint in a bowl and mash with a fork. (If desired, remove the rind of the cheese and shake any herbs into the mixture.) In another bowl, beat the eggs until frothy. Add them to the cheese and mix well. Season with freshly ground pepper and salt sparingly. (The cheese is salty.)

3. Butter a 9-inch tart pan. Roll out the pate brisee dough and line the pan with it. Crimp the edges. Place a layer of the sliced duck sausage or liverwurst on the bottom. Carefully pour the cheese-egg mixture over it.

4. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the point of a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. (The tart will be quite flat.) Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges.

Yield: Six servings.

Note: Since brocciu is not available in the United States, I use Brin d'Amour, a Corsican sheep's-milk cheese with dry herbs. In Manhattan it is available at Dean & DeLuca and Fairway. Similarly, since Corsican liver sausage is not available here, I substitute cooked duck sausages, which are also available at Dean & DeLuca. PATE BRISEE 1 3/4 cups flour, plus up to 1 additional cup 1/4 pound sweet butter, chilled and cut into chunks 1 teaspoon salt 1 egg 2 tablespoons oil 1/2 cup ice water.

1. Place 1 3/4 cups of the flour in a food processor. Add the butter and salt and process until well mixed. Add the egg and oil. Process for 30 seconds, adding more flour as needed if the mixture is too wet. (The mixture should resemble coarse cornmeal.) Add the ice water and process for another 30 seconds.

2. Remove the dough and form into a ball. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for 30 minutes. When ready to use, roll out the dough on a lightly floured board.

Yield: Pate brisee to line 2 9-inch pie pans. ROASTED GARLIC WITH BRIN D'AMOUR 8 whole garlic heads 4 tablespoons butter, plus 1 teaspoon for the dish Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/4 cup chicken bouillon or stock 1/2 pound of Brin d'Amour or any semi-hard American goat cheese 3 to 5 tablespoons of creme fraiche 3 scallions, trimmed and finely minced 8 large slices country rye bread Olive oil (optional).

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. With the point of a knife, make an incision in each garlic bulb 1 1/2 inches from the top. Remove the first layer of skin from the tops, so that the points of the cloves are showing.

3. Grease a baking dish with 1 teaspoon of the butter. Arrange the bulbs in the dish. Dot the bulbs with the remaining butter, using 1/2 tablespoon for each bulb. Sprinkle with the pepper. Pour the wine and the bouillon into the baking dish. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 15 minutes. To test for doneness, prick the cloves with the point of a knife. If some of the garlic comes off on the knife, they are done. Remove from the oven.

4. Place the cheese and 3 tablespoons of the creme fraiche in a bowl and mash with a fork. (If desired, remove the rind of the cheese and shake any herbs into the mixture.) Add more creme fraiche, if needed, until the mixture has the texture of a thick puree. Add the chopped scallions and mix well.

5. To serve, place 1 slice of bread and 1 garlic bulb on each plate and pass the cheese mixture separately. Explain to your guests that they should spread the cheese on the bread; then using a fork, they should press the garlic flesh out of each clove and spread it on top. Sprinkle with olive oil, if desired. Serve with a dry red wine.

Yield: Eight servings as an appetizer. PUMPKIN BEIGNETS 1 package (2 1/2 teaspoons) dry yeast Pinch salt 2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 3 large eggs 1 tablespoon oil 1 cup canned pumpkin puree 1 tablespoon brandy Vegetable oil for frying 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar.





Yield: About 36 beignets.

Photo: Corsican food is as rugged as the island's landscape. The quintessential Corsican meal: roasted garlic with sheep's-milk cheese. (Tom Eckerle for The New York Times)