I got all of Ansel's books at home, but haven't had the time to even open them up.

My Current workflow is more or less like:
Develop the film, using stand development just because my son can sometimes require a laaaarge amount of attention, and if I miss my time in stand development it won't result in as bad negatives as if I do it with a normal development technique.
I then photograph each frame using my phone against a brightly lit white wall, and invert it to see what each negative contain, both in a subject matter and in tones.
Whenever I get the time to print (around 3-5 hours) once a month, I normally print 2-5 different negatives:
1. Proof my exposure with 5sec increments using a 0-2 grade filter depending on how much contrast the negative has.
2. Choosing the correct exposure I focus, expose and develop and rinse my print briefly, go outside and evaluate my print i either daylight or in our hallway lit by bright Led light.
3. If I want the print to look brighter or darker I go and make a new one, adjusting the time, or if I want more contrast I use a higher grade of filter.
4. Evaluate the new print, if not satisfied step 3 again.
5. Do it all over with the next negative.

The thing is, I am not a beginner in the digital darkroom, since I've spent insanely many hours in front of my computer with images I've made with portraits, weddings, newborns etc, and I am well aware of how I want my images to look like.

I started shooting B&W and color film, for 3. reasons. 1. I have to slow down, just using 36 exposures instead of 190 on each card. 2 I love the certain look of color film, and since I just let my local camera dealer develop and print it for me, it is a more "shoot and just enjoy the results" way, instead of manipulate each photo in lightroom. 3. The look of Tri-X is just amazing, and while I can simulate colorfilm pretty good in the digital world, it is darn difficult to get the Tri-X using a fake digital way. The grain is just so pleasing!

So, when I usually print my Tri-x the end result is pleasing when it comes to the amount of tones, but after scanning them, and looking at them that way, I think the next time I will strive for a more Pop (only on the right picture of course) instead of getting the most amount of tones and the "Correct" exposure.