Ask Milan Vukmirovic why the seventies are back, and he'll be quick to tell you: "It's because people are going out again—a lot." It was fitting, then, that after a foray into the decade's more ladylike elements last season, the Trussardi 1911 creative director took a walk on the louche side with his on-message Spring collection. Think David Bailey's famous pictures of Marie Helvin in Tahiti, with a bit of a military vibe thrown in; "urban jungle" is what the designer called it.

Yes, that meant there was a lot of leopard, and yes, that's a print that's been everywhere lately, but Vukmirovic made it new by doing it in white and black, sometimes pairing it with a palm-frond print. Still, the latter of the two motifs looked fresher, especially on pieces like a nightclub-ready one-shoulder cocktail number (worn with a matching flower at the neck), an easy jumpsuit, and a floor-length tank dress with a fitted suede macramé bodice. That last one was just begging for a beach party on a hot summer night.

Three seasons in, the bags and shoes are the best performers at this classic Italian brand's new 1911 line. Here, Vukmirovic lavished plenty of attention and no little amount of the house's expertise on clutches stitched in swirling patterns from thin leather strips and on wedge heels with lacing up the back. Leather also features on the arms of the company's just-launched sunglasses.