Edition: U.S. / Global

FOOD; Sweet Bay Scallops For Holiday Soirees

Published: November 28, 1993

BAY scallops from Peconic Bay on Long Island and Nantucket Bay in Massachusetts are in fairly good supply this year. They are rather expensive and therefore more suitable for special holiday occasions. Their slightly briny sweetness and manageable size make them excellent to use in a variety of dishes.

These are not tiny scallops. They are usually around an inch in diameter, so they retain a certain appealing succulence when cooked. If they are not available, it is better to substitute sea scallops, quartered, than to use the smaller calico scallops.

In the following recipes, scallops are used to make an Asian-style hors d'oeuvre, like a sate, for passing during the cocktail hour with a peppery peanut sauce on the side. At a seated dinner, two or three of the skewers moistened with some of the peanut sauce can be served as a first course alongside or laid on top of a salad tossed with a gingery dressing.

The ragout with beans and potatoes is country fare, a warming dish to serve with crusty bread at a weekend lunch or informal supper. With the quantity increased, it becomes excellent party fare, kept on a warmer at a buffet. If the recipe is quadrupled, it will serve 16.

Golden, saffron-tinted risotto is elegant and suitable as a first course for a small dinner party. Serve it with a rich chardonnay. Scallop Sate With Peanut Sauce Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes 24 small bamboo skewers 1 tablespoon soy sauce 3 1/2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce 4 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons chili oil, or to taste 48 Peconic or Nantucket Bay scallops, about 1 pound 1 small sweet red pepper 4 tablespoons smooth unsalted peanut butter 3 tablespoons orange juice Hot red pepper flakes to taste 1 tablespoon finely minced scallions 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh coriander.

1. Place the skewers in cold water to cover and set aside.

2. Combine the soy sauce, a tablespoon and a half of the fish sauce, three tablespoons of the vinegar and a tablespoon of the chili oil in a bowl. Add the scallops, mix to combine, cover and allow the scallops to marinate one to three hours. Refrigerate them if they will be marinating more than an hour.

3. Cut the red pepper into strips about an inch wide, then cut into squares. Make 24 squares.

4. Heat a small nonstick skillet, add the pepper squares and sear, tossing briefly about five minutes, just until the pepper squares begin to soften. Remove from the heat and set peppers aside.

5. Meanwhile beat the peanut butter and orange juice together until well blended. Stir in the remaining fish sauce, vinegar and chili oil. Season to taste with hot red pepper flakes. Stir in the scallions and coriander. Transfer to a small serving dish appropriate for a dip and set aside.

6. Just before serving, thread two scallops on each of the skewers with a pepper square between them. Be sure the food on the skewers is placed close to the pointed end of the skewer so guests can easily bite the scallops and peppers off the skewers without having to imitate a sword swallower.

7. Preheat a grill or broiler. Grill or broil the skewers close to the source of heat until seared. Arrange the skewers on a serving platter and place the dish of peanut sauce in the middle or alongside. Pass as hors d'oeuvres with cocktails.

Yield: 8 to 12 servings. Scallop, Potato And Bean Ragout Total time: 40 minutes 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter or cooking oil 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped 1 small sweet red pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped 2 large cloves garlic, minced 2 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced thin 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 cup hot vegetable stock or water 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 1 pound new potatoes, peeled and sliced 1 cup cooked cannellini beans 1 pint Peconic or Nantucket Bay scallops Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon finely minced parsley.

1. Heat the butter or oil in a heavy three-quart saucepan. Add the onion and sweet red pepper and saute over medium heat until tender. Stir in the garlic, cook another minute or so, then stir in the mushrooms. Stir for about a minute, then add the wine. Simmer gently for five minutes.

2. Add the stock to the saucepan along with the thyme and the potatoes. Simmer, partly covered, about 15 minutes, until the potato slices are tender.

3. Briefly rinse and drain the cannellini beans and add them. Simmer another five minutes, then add the scallops. Simmer about five minutes longer, until the scallops are just cooked. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve, sprinkled with parsley.

Yield: 4 servings. Saffron Risotto With Scallops Total time: 40 minutes 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 medium-size onion, chopped 1 1/2 cups Italian arborio rice for risotto 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/2 teaspoon saffron 4 1/2 cups hot well-seasoned fish stock (approximately) 1 pound Peconic or Nantucket Bay scallops Salt and hot red pepper flakes to taste.

1. Heat butter in heavy three-quart saucepan. Add onion and saute over medium heat until translucent but not brown. Stir in rice and cook, stirring, until grains turn white. Stir in wine and cook, stirring, for five minutes, until most of the wine has evaporated.

2. Meanwhile, place the saffron in a small dish and pour a cup of the hot stock over it.

3. When most of the wine has evaporated, stir in a half cup of the stock and adjust the heat so the mixture cooks at a steady simmer. When most of that stock has evaporated, stir in the stock with the saffron and continue to cook, stirring frequently.

4. Continue adding stock, about a half cup at a time, stirring frequently, until the rice is just barely tender, about 15 minutes longer. You may not need to add all the remaining stock.

5. Stir in scallops. Continue cooking, stirring gently, another three to five minutes, until rice is al dente and scallops are cooked. Add a little stock if necessary. Season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes; serve at once.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.