Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [marc801] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.: Edit Log

Partner cracklover

Aug 2, 2013, 9:12 AM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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marc801 wrote:
distantThunder wrote:
just checking late on this thread. not sure why it's so emotional.

I understand cracklovers set of circumstances. strange things could happen to a pair of biners if they are protruding over an edge like that.

but practically - that type of set-up is a safety violation. a TR should NEVER be set up so the biners just poke over the top of the rock. the biners should always hang loose and free - beyond the edge.

i'll leave it to people to debate the in's and out's of the argument. cracklover's scenario simply reinforces that the age-old safety standards are true - if you don't use bad set-ups with your hardware - you don't get bad results.

BTW - I always used oval biners for TR's, and generally preferred locking biners anyway. if I used the oval biners, I usually set it up as 3 biners (not two), with the middle opposed to the two outer ones. the reason for choosing oval biners is that D-biners can do slightly odd things, just like cracklover showed - they are a bit more prone to working their way inside of each other.
It's so emotional because a certain percentage of rc posters live there entire life mitigating against "what if" events, no matter how remote or unlikely the occurrence of a given event. Underlying this is the misinformed and breathtakingly naive idea that risk in rock climbing can be reduced to zero.

I didn't see any such scaredy-cat posters getting emotional in regards to this thread. The only folks who seem to be up in arms are people like you and Healyje, tilting at windmills.


(This post was edited by cracklover on Aug 2, 2013, 9:13 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Aug 2, 2013, 9:13 AM

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