ASCP Skin Deep


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Listen to the ASCP Esty Talk podcast at 29 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY ON THE SURFACE, SUN PROTECTION FACTOR (commonly known as SPF) seems pretty simple and straightforward. A common misconception is that the SPF number represents the time it takes for a sunburn to occur—the higher the number, the longer the skin is protected. However, the SPF number actually relates to the percentage of ultraviolet (UV) rays blocked. While SPF is an important measure, it's not all there is to know about sunscreen— and this is a case where what you don't know can hurt you. Walk into any spa or professional skin care business, and you'll see the shelves stocked with a variety of SPF 15, SPF 30, SPF 50, and even up to SPF 100 sunscreens. The general wisdom is that more is always better, right? Well, that's not always true for sunscreen. Today's esthetician knows the myriad challenges consumers raise when we are educating them about sunscreen compliance. Products with an SPF number alone won't protect skin from most UVA rays, so look for a broad spectrum sunscreen that contains a physical block, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Sunscreen and SPF by Dave Waggoner and Lisa VanBockern THE BASICS Let's start by agreeing on some basic tenets of SPF: • Everyone should wear sunscreen, regardless of skin color, because anyone can get skin cancer. • Sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB skin damage and wrinkles. • Both chemical and mineral sunscreens are considered effective and safe by the FDA. • All sunscreens, regardless of SPF, can rub off or break down in the course of two hours—even faster if you're swimming or sweating. That's why no matter the SPF, sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours to get the full protection. SOME DEFINITIONS Sunblock uses titanium oxide or zinc oxide as the active ingredient to reflect the sun's rays from penetrating the skin. Sunblock is a physical protectant. jessica ruscello/unsplash

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