Given its extensive mix of cultures, the Lake Worth area has seen several ethnic restaurants open in recent years. One of the newest is Felix Pino's La Cascada, serving primarily Colombian food but also an assortment of dishes from other South American countries and a few from Italy, as well. And we liked everything. The food is wonderful and the prices are low, lower than they should be, in fact, given how delicious and enormous the portions are. The number of choices on the menu is substantial, with appetizers, several house specialties and seafood and meat entrees. I don't think you will go wrong regardless what you order.

The eatery sits in the middle of a small strip mall on Lake Worth Road just west of Military Trail. The room is spacious, and the white-linen-covered tables are well-separated. The walls are bright yellow, and on one is a large mural, with two waterfalls, or cascadas, set in a color-splashed jungle. While ordering, we sipped some sangria ($11 for a pitcher). We liked that it was not terribly sweet, despite chunks of apples, cherries and green grapes.

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    La Cascada
    Cuisine: South American
    Where: 4657 Lake Worth Rd., Greenacres, 561-304-3002
    Cost: Inexpensive
    Credit cards: all major
    Hours: lunch, dinner
    Reservations: recommended
    Smoking: not allowed
    Wheelchair accessible: yes
    Complete restaurant info
Chicharrons ($2.50), or fried pork rinds, are a popular appetizer in many Latin eateries. La Cascada's, however, were some of the best. The appropriately crisp exterior encased luscious and juicy pork fat with tiny bits of some very tender meat attached. They were just plain heaven. Starters also include quesadillas, and we selected one with chicken ($5.95). It covered the large plate -- certainly large enough for an entire meal -- and overflowed with melted cheese and small pieces of the tender poultry. Thin pieces of jalapeno peppers topped the pie-like slices, which were garnished with dollops of sour cream.

From the several seviches on the menu, my party selected a mixed-seafood version ($5.95), but we were disappointed. The garnishes -- parsley, tomatoes, scallions, onions and citrus juices -- seemed fresh enough, but the fish tasted cooked, which is certainly unusual for a raw dish. We suspected it had just been sitting around too long, which would account for its toughness.

House dinner specialties include tongue ($8.95), liver and onions ($7.50), and barbecued spare ribs ($8.95) for red-meat eaters, as well as a grilled chicken breast in seafood sauce ($9.75), chickens Francese and Parmigiana ($7.25 each), and the ubiquitous chicken and rice ($6.95). Despite the reasonable prices, portions are extremely large.

His Colombian background notwithstanding, Pino suggested the parrillada Argentina for two ($17.95). A large platter held nicely striated and barbecued chicken breasts, a thin flank steak not overly cooked, nicely prepared and plump short ribs and a large Spanish sausage, all redolent of the grill. A tangy green chimichurri was the perfect dipping sauce. White rice and superior French fries arrived on a separate plate.

Chimichurri also accompanies the churrasco, a lean Argentine steak, as do white rice, fried cassava (a root vegetable) and French fries -- a cholesterol-laden still life in starch. Pork loin ($8.50) is served with white rice, beans and fried sweet plantains. Charcoal-broiled pork chops ($6.95) receive the same garnishes.

The seafood crock ($11.95) doesn't sound like much, but it was wonderful. A thick, somewhat-tangy orange-colored soup contained white wine, garlic, red and green peppers, scallions, cilantro, dill and cream. Several fillets, octopus, calamari, plump clams and mussels -- all prepared just perfectly -- filled the broth. The more-than-generous portion was ladled into three large bowls so we could share. Pino's other fish dishes include shrimp with rice ($8.95), shrimp in the classically Spanish green garlic sauce ($8.95), shrimp scampi over linguine ($8.89), linguine with white clam sauce ($7.50), fish fillet Francese ($7.50), fish fillet with seafood sauce ($9.95), shrimp-and-scallops au gratin ($9.95) and whole fried snapper (market price).

Although the restaurant offers only two desserts, we found both delicious. The "traditional" Colombian dessert ($4) alternates slices of figs with pieces of soft, white cheese around a large dollop of the sweetest, gooiest, dulce de leche imaginable. Two large rounds of not-too-sweet flan ($1.50) also provided a satisfying end to a hearty meal.

Despite an abundance of Latin restaurants in the area, La Cascada ranks among the best, mostly because everything works. Flavors, textures, service and prices here just can't be beat.