Edition: U.S. / Global


Published: June 28, 1987

WHAT are the traditional accompaniments for a Fourth of July cookout?

Potato salad, coleslaw and macaroni salad, of course. Plus deviled eggs, perhaps, and baked beans.

There is no reason, however, not to expand the repertoire or even subtly alter the traditional recipes for such dishes without causing an outcry. For example, one of my favorite potato salads is made with potatoes cooked and tossed while warm in a mustardy homemade mayonnnaise and liberally sprinkled with fresh tarragon. A little red onion is added and the salad is served at room temperature - not straight out of the refrigerator. This salad has much more flavor and texture than one made with commercial mayonnaise mixed into cold potatoes.

The red bean salad given below is slightly spicy, with a coriander dressing. The influence is Mexican. It goes very well with grilled chicken or sausages. The salad can be made several days in advance, but should be served at room temperature with the coriander added just before serving.

Instead of macaroni or pasta salad, you might try cold noodles with sesame paste, the dish that is so popular in Sichuan restaurants. It goes with barbecued food or can be served as a first course, to be eaten while people are waiting for the rest of the meal to cook on the grill. The best drink with it is cold beer. Tarragon Potato Salad Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes 2 pounds red-skinned potatoes For the mayonnaise: 2 egg yolks 1 to 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar (or more to taste) 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/2 cup safflower oil 1/2 to 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon 4 to 6 tablespoons chopped red onion.

1. Boil the potatoes until they are cooked. Meanwhile, make the mayonnaise. 2. Beat the egg yolks in a bowl with a whisk until they are thick and sticky. Add the vinegar and mustard and beat some more.

3. Gradually add a few drops of safflower oil and whisk them in. Continue adding safflower and olive oils, increasing the amount as you go, until you have a smooth emulsion. (If you add the oil too quickly and the mayonnaise curdles, add another egg yolk.) Season with salt and pepper.

4. Drain the potatoes and cut them in slices or quarters. Place them in a large serving bowl and coat with the mayonnaise. Add the herbs and onion and toss gently, taking care not to break the potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature (do not refrigerate unless the weather is very hot and the salad has to be made way ahead of serving time).

Yield: 6 to 8 servings. Kidney Bean Salad With Chili and Coriander Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 1 hour 1 pound kidney beans 1/2 teaspoon cumin 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 green chili, finely chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 2 bay leaves Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 pounds Italian plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 small red onion, finely chopped 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped 1 teaspoon fresh oregano For the dressing 1/2 to 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 lime 1 teaspoon Balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh coriander, chopped.

1. Place the beans in a large saucepan and pour in enough water to cover them. Bring to boil, drain and add fresh water to cover. Add the cumin, garlic, chili, onion, bay leafs, salt and pepper. Simmer gently, covered, for about one hour, or until cooked (add more water if the beans start to get too dry).

2. In a large serving bowl combine the tomatoes, onion, jalapeno pepper and oregano. Drain the beans, add them to the tomatoes and toss.

3. Mix the olive oil with the juice of the lime (adding the juice to taste) and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and add to the beans. Toss thoroughly.

4. Just before serving, add the coriander and mix well.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Note: this salad can be made several days in advance but the coriander should not be added until just before it is served. Spicy Noodles With Sesame Dressing Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 4 minutes 1 pound thin egg noodles (fresh if possible) 1 tablespoon peanut oil For the dressing 3 tablespoons Chinese sesame oil 4 tablespoons sesame seed paste (tahini) 3 tablespoons dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons brewed tea 1 tablespoon chili oil 1 teaspoon sugar 6 scallions, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 2 teaspoons fresh ginger root, minced Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

1. Bring six quarts water to boil. Add the peanut oil and cook the noodles for three to four minutes, or until al dente. Drain and refresh under running cold water.

2. Place the noodles in a large serving bowl and add one tablespoon sesame oil. Toss to prevent them from sticking together and set them aside.

3. Mix together the remaining ingredients until you have a smooth sauce. If necessary, thin with a little olive oil. Correct seasoning and pour the dressing over the noodles. Toss thoroughly and serve at room temperature.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Note: the ingredients can be chopped in advance but the final mixing of the salad should not take place until just before it is served.