Chianti, could benefit from further geographical delineation, some argue. Jean-Manuel Duvivier

Where France triumphs, Italy fails. There is much to be said for the way the French have honed and finessed their distinctive Appellation Contrôlée system, an easy-to-digest classification that categorizes wines based on their origin and production. At its heart, this system recognizes that to appreciate the greatest wines, particularly the classic wines of Europe, one has to understand that they derive their true character from the vineyard: its location and soil, aspect, temperature and exposure to the sun. It is these factors that determine whether a particular grape variety will thrive.

In those small pockets where it does, the result can be nothing short of magical. A visit to Bordeaux is to travel through villages such as Margaux and St.-Estèphe, and taste wines that have a distinctive style aligned with the village. The wines of Pauillac possess a cedar and black currant flavor, while those of neighboring St.-Estèphe have more power and tannin.

The system has a certain logic and makes it relatively straightforward to understand the differences in flavor and quality.

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Chianti Classicos worth seeking out

In Italy, attempts have been made to mimic this. The Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) outlined strict control on yields, grape varieties and production methods. Later came the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), which placed a higher bar on quality; its wines are now ranked as some of Italy's best. But the system is still in its infancy and more experimentation is needed to ascertain which grape varieties are best suited to which location.

Some argue that geographical delineations should go further. One area where there has been much discussion is Chianti, a vast region between Florence and Siena that produces a fruity wine made mainly from Sangiovese. Much of Chianti can be drunk young and is a perfect foil to wash down a simple supper. But Chianti Classico, covering 7,000 hectares in the heart of Chianti, is more serious and could benefit from further geographical delineation.

Aged in oak barrels for at least two years, Chianti Classico wines are identified by a black rooster within a red circle on the neck of the bottle, signaling membership of the Chianti Classico Consortium. Of particular interest to the connoisseur, these wines display uplifting acidity, a scent replete with dark red fruits and violets, and a bright finish that marries well with food.

The area—spectacularly beautiful, its ancient landscape peppered with cypress trees, olive groves and vines—also boasts a variety of microclimates, soils and terroirs. It is this varied landscape that wine importer David Berry Green says makes the case for further delineation. He argues that the nine villages of Chianti Classico—Greve, Panzano, Radda, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, Gaiole, Barberino, San Casciano and Castellina—each impart their own specific characteristics on the wine. "Sangiovese is like Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir," he says. "It needs good soil and good drainage, and if you give it the right material, it performs brilliantly."

Under this new geographical delineation, the term Chianti would be all-encompassing and refer to the entire region in the middle of Tuscany, rather like the umbrella term Bordeaux. Chianti Classico and its villages, like the Médoc, would have their own stylistic characteristics. So Greve, for example, would be a little like Margaux, as it has a softer, rounder character.

Italy has made great strides in classifying its wines, but there is still more to do. As Mr. Berry Green says: "These villages have beautiful names. We need to talk about them, their vines and the differences in their soil. That is what makes up Chianti Classico." I hope the authorities in Tuscany are listening.

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