Edition: U.S. / Global

FOOD; Soul-Satisfying Greens With Southern Italian Accent

Published: October 25, 1998

STURDY greens deserve a permanent place on the menu. Not only are big bunches relatively inexpensive but they also deliver a rich concentration of vitamin A. Broccoli rape, spinach and frilly kale are in the market now, as are others, including collard greens, Swiss chard and mustard greens. You can easily substitute one for another. Just be sure the leaves on the bunches you buy show no signs of yellowing.

Greens require a thorough rinsing, best done by sloshing them in a clean sink filled with cold water. They do not require drying, like lettuce, because the moisture clinging to the leaves will help them wilt in the pan. Though their flavors vary, the dominant taste is bitterness, which can be tamed by using some vinegar in the cooking and taking care to season them well, especially with salt.

The following recipes give greens a southern Italian accent, combined with pasta, mixed into a frittata or served as a side-dish vegetable with a typically Sicilian garnish of pine nuts and raisins.

Sauteed Kale With Pine Nuts and Raisins

Total time: 30 minutes

1/4 cup raisins

2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons pine nuts

1 1/2 pounds fresh kale

4 cloves garlic, sliced thin

Crushed red pepper to taste

Salt to taste.

1. Put the raisins in a small dish, add the vinegar and set aside.

2. Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a large, heavy skillet, add the pine nuts and saute over medium heat until they are golden. Remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Rinse the kale well and shake off excess water. Cut off and discard the bottom two inches of the stems, then coarsely chop the rest.

4. Heat the remaining oil in the skillet, add the garlic and saute until lightly browned. Stir in the kale and cook, stirring, until the kale has wilted. Stir in the vinegar and raisins and the red pepper. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a serving dish and scatter the pine nuts on top. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Yield: 6 servings.

Orecchiette With Broccoli Rape

Total time: 25 minutes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 ounces prosciutto, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, sliced thin

Pinch hot red pepper flakes

1 pound fresh broccoli rape, rinsed and chopped

1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound orecchiette

3 ounces freshly grated pecorino cheese.

1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet. Add the prosciutto and onion and cook over medium heat until they barely begin to brown. Stir in the garlic and pepper flakes, cook a couple of minutes longer, then add the broccoli rape.

2. Cook, stirring, about seven minutes, until the broccoli rape has wilted. Stir in the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.

3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the orecchiette, stir once or twice and cook until al dente, about eight minutes. Remove half a cup of the cooking water from the pot and set aside. Then drain the orecchiette well.

4. Reheat the broccoli rape mixture, add the orecchiette to the skillet and stir. Moisten with the reserved cooking water and season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with the cheese and serve.

Yield: 6 servings.

Spinach-Potato Frittata

Total time: 45 minutes

1/2 pound medium-size boiling potatoes, peeled


4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cups finely chopped fresh or canned tomatoes

1/2 teaspoon crushed rosemary

1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 cloves garlic, sliced thin

1 pound spinach, rinsed and chopped

1/4 cup chopped scallions

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

6 eggs, well beaten.

1. Put the potatoes in a saucepan with water to cover, add a little salt, bring to a boil and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 20 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain the potatoes and dice into a large bowl.

2. While the potatoes are cooking, heat one-half tablespoon of the oil in a shallow saucepan, add the onions and cook until tender but not brown. Stir in the tomatoes and rosemary and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3. Heat two tablespoons of the oil in a 12-inch skillet, preferably nonstick. Add the garlic, cook until it turns golden, then stir in the spinach and scallions. Cook over medium-high heat until the spinach has wilted. Cook long enough to evaporate excess moisture in the pan and add to the potatoes in the bowl. Mix the potatoes and spinach together and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in the cheese.

4. Wipe out the pan, put over medium heat and add the remaining oil. Pour the eggs into the pan, tilting it so they are evenly distributed, then spread the spinach and potato mixture evenly over the eggs. Cook until the bottom has set and is lightly browned.

5. Using a spatula, loosen the frittata in the pan so it easily moves around. Put a dish larger than the skillet over the skillet and, holding the skillet and the dish tightly together with potholders, turn them over so the frittata is on the dish. Then slide the frittata back into the skillet, cook a few minutes longer to set the other side and transfer to a serving dish.

6. Warm the tomato sauce and spoon some over each serving of frittata.

Yield: 4 servings.

Drawings (Illustrations by Andrea Arroyo)