My last meal at Blackhawk Grille was 20 years ago to celebrate my sister's eighth-grade graduation. There is absolutely no reason why I haven't returned, but somehow it never happened.

When I shared this with general manager Grant Johnson, he acknowledged lots of people viewed the old Blackhawk Grille as a "special occasion restaurant." Owner Tavistock Restaurant Group agreed last year it was time for a change, noting the trend that Americans are eating out more often, but more casually.

So after a three-month shuttering, Blackhawk Grille reopened in July with an approachable modern style designed to woo a wider swath of customers into frequent visits.

The redesign is both stunning and welcoming. The 10,000-square-foot space is now comfortable but chic, able to accommodate many different moods and occasions.

This also matches the current ethos for Blackhawk Plaza, which has made a conscious effort to dial down the pretentiousness. It now boasts some fairly accessible dining options, including Roti 8 and The Prickly Pear.

The new atmosphere is coupled with the introduction of an all-day modern tavern menu. The idea, says Johnson, is for people at the same table to have different dining options, ranging from a snack to a full meal. Prices are fair, with sandwiches and brick-oven pizzas topping out at $13. Nothing is over $28, except for the filet mignon ($33).


My first visit was a glorious sundress-and-salad kind of Friday afternoon. The inviting waterfront patio was swarming with bunches of well-put-together women. Even the ducks quacked cheerfully as they swam past.

The menu options struck me as a little overbearing for the Indian summer weather that day. I'm guessing items such as the BG chopped salad ($13.50) were in high demand, but I wonder how many braised pork shanks ($25.50), meatloaves ($18.25) or fish and chips ($13.50) were fired that lunch shift.

We shied away from the heavier fare, but still nibbled greedily on complimentary warm and crispy potato chips. The pan-seared blue crab cakes ($10.50) were tasty and fresh, paired nicely with a simple herb salad and a mild chile aioli.

The ample roasted beet salad ($9.75) was a testament to the beauty of simple ingredients with meaty red beets, goat cheese, candied walnuts and a light sherry vinaigrette. Finally, the apple sorbet ($6) hit all the right notes to finish this summery ladies' lunch. We left happy.

I returned for dinner a few nights later. This time we sat inside and observed all the different spaces in use -- a realization of the original vision for the redesign. Sports fans parked themselves in front of TVs in the separate bar area; khaki-clad folks gathered for a business dinner in the Walnut Grove main dining area; an older couple sat in view of the open kitchen; and the patio's jovial atmosphere belied the weeknight realities of families back in the school routine.

Meanwhile, the song "American Pie" came piping through the speakers, a party anthem that reinforces the more relaxed image. Servers are also in a more casual spirit, and ours were just fine on both visits. It felt good.

Butterscotch Bread Pudding is on the dessert menu at Danville&#8217;s freshly refurbished Blackhawk Grille in Danville, Calif., on Friday, Oct. 5, 2012.
Butterscotch Bread Pudding is on the dessert menu at Danville's freshly refurbished Blackhawk Grille in Danville, Calif., on Friday, Oct. 5, 2012. (Laura A. Oda/Staff) ( Laura A. Oda )

We started dinner with a pristine house salad and French onion soup, built on a savory, yet fairly salty broth. In addition to our server's recommendation of chicken piccata ($16.50), we also ordered the grilled salmon ($25.50) and a side of creamed spinach ($5).

This is where the experience fell off. The grilled salmon tasted dry and overcooked. The dish as a whole didn't feel particularly seasonal or flavorful. The chicken piccata, meanwhile, was tough and bland, as if from an old-school banquet dinner. The accompanying broccolini was nearly raw, still a step away from al dente crunchy. And though I was really looking forward to the creamed spinach, the tender leaves drowned in the especially creamy dish.

We're thankful the last impression was a very fine one. The butterscotch bread pudding ($6) -- a favorite at Blackhawk Grille -- made me swoon with its brown sugar sauce.

When I talked with Johnson after my visits, he shared they had just hired executive chef Jason Bergeron a few weeks earlier. He was transferred from a Tavistock restaurant in Boston to improve the restaurant's execution and to increase consistency to the seasonal menu. This sounds like a promising move.

Meanwhile, I hope they will consider adding a few more lighter dishes to balance out the likes of heavier tavern favorites such as chicken potpie ($12.75) and steak frites ($16.25). In this healthful neck of the woods, customers are likely to demand it anyway.

In the short term, the inviting setting is spot on, but some dishes need a bit more care. Once the environment and food get in sync, it will be a winning combo. This go around, I'll be back in 20 days, not 20 years.

Reach Chrissa Ventrelle at


* * *

FOOD: * * ½
AMBIENCE: * * * ½
SERVICE: * * *
WHERE: 3540 Blackhawk Circle Plaza, Danville.
CONTACT: 925-736-4295,
HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fridays; 10:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Saturdays.; 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sundays; brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays
CUISINE: Mostly American tavern/comfort fare.
PRICES: $$-$$$
VEGETARIAN: Spaghetti and plum tomatoes, margherita pizza, chopped Caesar salad; salmon, mahi mahi, and fish of the day for pescatarians
BEVERAGES: Full bar; six beers on tap; seasonally changing cocktails; extensive but affordable wine list; $10 corkage fee
NOISE LEVEL: Depends on where you sit
PARKING: Parking lot at Blackhawk Plaza
KIDS: Children's offerings ($6.50) include cheese pizza, mini cheeseburger, chicken fingers. All housemade.
PLUSES: The gorgeous redesign was thoughtfully done, making this a welcoming spot for any occasion and any group. Beautiful outdoor patio overlooking water feature. Wonderful private room.
MINUSES: Some entrees need better execution.
DATE OPENED: 1991; reopened after remodel in July 2012





Price code

$ Most entrees under $10
$$ Most entrees under $20
$$$ Most entrees under $30
$$$$ Most entrees under $40