Put the moon in your glass

July 19, 2005

Sally Gudgeon looks at a return to natural winemaking.

The term biodynamics was first defined in a series of lectures given by Rudolf Steiner in 1924, according to the first international biodynamic wine forum handbook, which says biodynamics is "internationally recognised as a leading organic method working across all agricultural systems. Biodynamics recognises that great wine starts in the vineyard."

The international biodynamic wine forum was held at Beechworth at the end of last year, and it was a thrilling three days. There were moments of enlightenment, disbelief, stunned silence, scepticism and humour. In the true spirit of biodynamics, three of the writers present, Max Allen, Campbell Mattinson and myself, decided to divide up our jokes. Allen would use all the "horn" gags when writing about the conference, Mattinson would explore "root" humour, and I would stick to the planet jokes, about biodynamic winemakers being from Venus, and so on.

Biodynamics is an easy target for satire. But as more and more people are beginning to realise, it is not a joke. It is a way to make better wine.

As Julian Castagna, of Beechworth's Castagna Wines, says: "People used to laugh at me, and then they discovered the quality of my wine."

The quality factor starts in the vineyard. Biodynamics takes organic principles to a literally more "dynamic" level, by harnessing the invisible energies of nature. This sounds grandiose, but it all works by carrying out certain tasks in the vineyard and winery according to the lunar calendar.

Biodynamics, as distinct from organics, also uses certain preparations, the most important of which, 500 (manure) and 501 (silica), are packed into cows' horns, buried in the soil, and then dug up for use in the vineyard.

Not every grower uses both "preps". Pioneering biodynamic winemaker Ron Laughton, from Jasper Hill, explains: "We don't use 501 (which concentrates the sun's rays to help photosynthesis), because we already have enough sunshine in Heathcote." He does use 500, however, which helps make humus and attract earthworms and soil bacteria. This builds up the soil structure to promote deep root growth. The Jasper Hill website says: "We make our living from the soil, and we must strive to keep our soil living."

Laughton has a pragmatic attitude. "I'm not a hippie," he says, and indeed he isn't. He has a scientific background and is a convert to biodynamics because he knows it works, enabling him to make even better-quality wine. He admits that he doesn't always follow every word Steiner wrote. He sees biodynamics as a "set of tools" rather than a religion or a recipe. And although he says he is not an evangelist, his practical approach makes him an ideal ambassador.

The keynote speaker at the conference, Nicholas Joly, from Coulee de Serrant, in the Loire Valley, was, however, more of an evangelist. One of the points he made was that without biodynamic viticulture there is no true appellation controlee system, as the use of herbicides and pesticides contaminates the land, disrupting the energy of the vine, and preventing the true expression of terroir. Soil rich in microbial life produces better-quality fruit, which in turn makes more expressive wine. At a time when Australian wines are being criticised overseas for their homogeneity, methods that help express the individuality of certain vineyard sites should surely be encouraged.

Then there are the issues of environmental degradation, salinity and water consumption. Biodynamic exponents criticise conventional agriculture because it strips nutrients and organic matter from the soil, making chemical fertilisers necessary. These fertilisers make the vines grow faster. Then they require more water, which in turn bloats and weakens them, making them more prone to disease and in need of synthetic sprays.

Australia is not only the driest continent in the world after Antarctica, it also has a salinity problem. Biodynamic agriculture uses 25 to 30 per cent less water than conventional methods and it eschews the use of chemical fertilisers, which add excess salt to the land.

There is also the economic perspective. Biodynamics saves money on pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilisers, and by recycling waste to make compost.

The fact that none of the four biggest wine companies were represented at the conference perhaps indicates that biodynamics is still seen as a marginal method. As often seems to be the case in the wine industry, innovation comes from the smaller players, while the large companies watch from a distance. There is no room, however, for complacency.

Crucial export markets such as Britain are clamouring for organic and biodynamic produce. Phil Reedman, master of wine and Australasian wine buyer for Tesco supermarkets, has always urged producers to look long term, see where the market is heading, and take calculated risks.

He expressed the need for organic and biodynamic wines nearly three years ago, saying: "In the dry inland growing areas of Australia, disease pressure is low and these regions have many advantages over Europe in this respect. If Australia moves too slowly in this area it risks losing ground to other countries."

One has to wonder, if biodynamic winemakers are from Venus, just which planet the rest of the industry is on.

Biodynamics in Australia
Castagna (Vic)
Cassegrain (NSW)
Cullen (WA)
Carlei Estate/Green Vineyards (Vic)
Hochkirch (Vic)
Jasper Hill (Vic)
Goulburn Terrace (Vic)
This list is not definitive.
