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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    The fan should only come on when idling in traffic under extreme high temp conditons ( ac on )...It should cycle normally on and off.. You should not hear it at all inside slight noise if you are standing by the hood. If it is on all the time, it has a bad thermo switch or the engine is running too hot. if the fan itself makes noise it means that the bearing is bad ( it needs replacing ) My 01 rarely comes on and it makes only a slight noise..I have 73,000k.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I bought it for my 01..I am glad I did.. it is expiring in 09..going to buy a newer Jeep..
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I have heard of this but both my 87 and 90 had 200k and never had a problem. It is true they are weled on the a pillar. Seems rather dumb. remember these are put together with robots..I guess its easier to weld them on than to worry about alignment.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    yes 30,000 for a serp belt is good.remember they drive all of the other pulleys in the vehicle and thay are under tremendous stress. Better to change it than to have it break. Yes carbon cleaning is good, it will give a better idle and help with gas mileage.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Bad pw steering pump bearing, bad serpintine belt or a bad bearing with another accessory.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    They changed the suspension on the newer Jeeps.they are stiffer only suggestion. go with softer ride shocks..if the vehicle has hd gas it will be choppy.
    My 01 v8 has Jeep rides fairly smooth.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    These components do do not bad like this.I have had 4 Jeeps and none of these problems...they are taking DC for a ride. Go to another dealership.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Possible yes..probable no..4 Jeeps and no problems..some with 200k.
  • This message is old, so I hope you've worked through this already. But I had something similar happen to me and it was the oil pressure sending unit. However, mine leaked really bad when it happened too.

    If I'm correct, it doesn't really have any impact on the actual pressure, it's just the device that sends the signal to your instrument panel. Thus the drop and the alarm.

    I don't believe you said what engine you have, but I have a 96 in-line 6 cylinder 4.0 and the unit is very easily accessible on the passenger side of the engine. You simple unclip the cable, remove it by unscrewing it, replace, re-clip and your finished.

    I believe the part is about $60 and most places have a minimum fee of hour service. So that little nugget could save you about $90.

    Hope that helps someone.
  • I looked back to try to try the chain of posts regarding the WOD, however I went all the way back to page 184 and hadn't found it. I got sick of looking and just decided to post what I found.

    First, and foremost, there was a lot of confusion as to what the WOD is. Some people confused this with a slight shake that you could accelerate through, thinking that it was something like out of balance tires. This is absolutely not the WOD. You can not accelerate through the WOD. The WOD is so violent that you literally think that they front end of your car is about to break off and you're going to be standing on the side of the road looking at your car broke into two pieces. So if you have a little annoying shake in your front end... you absolutely are not experiencing the WOD. If you have had to stop at the next rest area or return home for a change of clothes (and a shower), you've probably experienced the WOD.

    SO... many people claimed that the cause was several different issues, and of course the problem is that they were probably all correct for their specific circumstance. However, let me tell you what I found.

    I decided to bring mine to a local mechanic who is very honest and does great work. He told me prior to the job that it would be the Trac bar, however after reading all the horror stories on here, I decided that I would replace the steering dampener (I think that's what it's called; shock absorber attached to the steering) also.

    When I went to pick the vehicle up I asked if there was anything obvious that looked bad. That's when he showed me the old trac bar. There is a what I refer to as a "ball and socket" joint on one end (that's a medical term, not sure what the auto term would be) and that joint was obviously bad and the entire cause of the issue. Whatever was originally holding the ball in place inside the socket was now gone and it was just kind of free floating inside with lots of room for movement that shouldn't have been there.

    Again, I'm not a mechanic and I know I didn't do as good of a job of explaining this as I would've liked to, but I just wanted to let those of you who have had/will have this problem that this was the fix.

    To replace the trac bar was about $200 w/labor and adding in the steering dampener brought it up to $300. So not bad.

    I felt the difference in the front end immediately leaving and haven't had even the slightest sign of the WOD since.

    Hope that helps.
  • ellachellach Posts: 8
    Hi Guys
    I have a 2003 JGC 2.7 diesel, For some reason both brake lights have stopped working, i have checked fuse which is okay, Can any one help ? Only thing i can think of i spent 3 hrs in a motorway hold up yesterday and was on and off brakes constantly ( 3 miles in 2 hrs ) could something have burnt out ?
    Regards Ellach
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    try and replace the bulb holders
    they have a habit of going bad
  • dcgrafixdcgrafix Posts: 4
    I have a 99 jeep grand cherokee and every time I turn left I hear a knocking sound--usually just one knock and only at low speed.
  • I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2WD that has two problems that I suspect might be related.

    The first is that my dashboard lights have been dimming in and out for pretty much the last three years. At night, the dashboard lights dim almost completely out then come back, then dim again. My battery is no more than a year old, and I tried replacing the fuse with a new one, but that didn&#146;t help.

    The second problem is that the car will periodically not turn over when I turn the ignition key. Sometimes I turn the key and the engine will try to engage but it won&#146;t turn over. If I persist, sometimes the electricity &#145;goes out&#146; and I&#146;ll get only clicking sounds, other times I get nothing at all. Strange thing is if I wait 10-15 minutes and try again, the engine will turn over (sometimes it takes a few seconds, other times it's immediate), although I often have to reset my digital clock and other digital settings.

    My knowledge of auto maintenance is lacking, so whatever advice or suggestions anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    clean your battery cables sound as if they are dirty
  • I actually have this same thing happen with my 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0

    It's worse in the winter too.
  • This is the answer I get on another forum, read it, may be is our problem....
    The first place to start is to check the fluid it should be clean (pinkish to red in color) no debris and no burnt smell, If it smells burnt you should have the transmission pan removed and inspected for foreign material and debris, if debris or foreign material is found in the pan the transmission will need repair (internal), since you have no codes hopefully this will not be the case

    Next is to check the kick down linkage at the transmission to be sure that it is free moving and does not bind or hang up ( the ball and socket do rust and the shaft into the valve body may also rust) after the check, the cable will need to be checked for free movement also and then be properly adjusted, if not found to be binding.

    If both of the above are good, the transmission may need to be overhauled, what happens to these transmissions over time is that the seals inside of the transmission harden up over time and hang up the clutch piston in its bore causing a delayed and hard shift, this is normally made worse in the cold and gets better as the whether warms up, or may seem slightly better as the jeep reaches operating temp,another tell tale that this may be what is starting to happen is when it starts to hang up and not shift ease off the gas and see if it shifts, this allows governor pressure to overcome the hanging seal and make the shift, (I drove my truck like this for two years, you have already discovered this), but eventually the seal will fail completely and you will loose second and/or third gear
  • machmikemachmike Posts: 8
    I have the same vehicle and it is in the shop as we speak. It has the 4.7l with the four speed. If you are not throwing codes, you may have a solenoid that is block with debris and/or a bad clutch in the tranny. Hopefully, the way you are describing how you are getting the vehicle to shift, you are not damaging the torque converter. Solenoids and labor are a few hundred bucks. A torque convertor or gear damage on top solenoids or clutches is going to be thousands
  • rlh122rlh122 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Jeep grand cherokee with a 4.0 liter engine. The power steering gearbox is leaking around the adjusting screw where you take up the play in the steering wheel. Is there a gasket or o ring that i can replace to stop the leak. And if so how do i go about it.
  • Hi machmike.
    Do you know where can I get info on how to replace that selenoid, I have the HAYNES book and doesn't have anything about it, remember I have 4.0L

  • machmikemachmike Posts: 8
    I dont know anything about the tranny coupled to the 4.0. The one in the 4.7 is electronic and if yours isn't, then my issues may not apply. At any rate checkout, it is an awesome website for anything mopar. Also look at 'Jeep Grand Cherokee Tranmission Problems' in this forum. There may be alot of useful info for you in there to. I found it helpful. Good luck
  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    The 4.0 uses the same transmission as the 4.7 up until 2001 (Jeep switched to the 545 RFE for the 4.7 in 2001). The 45 RFE (Rear wheel drive, Fully Electronic) which is used in the 4.0 uses the same electronics as the 545 RFE, but the 545 RFE is for heavier duty use. Jeep also flashed the computers for all Grand Cherokees made between 1999-2000 (keep in mind that they used the 45 RFE before 2001) to engage the 5th gear for better fuel economy on the highway. Grand Cherokees made from 2001-2004 already have the new computer programing.
  • machmikemachmike Posts: 8
    If that is the case, another great website is It has great information about the 45RFE.
  • I have been looking into buying a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. It has 221,000 miles on it and the front driver seat needs to be put back on track. They would like 2700 dollars for the vehicle, everything else in it is in perfect working order. What is the average mileage you can get out of a Grand Cherokee? and roughly how much would it cost to get the seat fixed? Is this a good deal?
  • I have a 96 Grand Cherokee Limited and I'm closing in on 200k. I've had quite a few issues that you're going to have when you get a vehicle that has that many miles on it (exhaust, starter, oil leaks, Wobble of Death, etc.) but anyone who buys a old high mile car has to be aware that those issues come with the territory.

    What engine does the 97 have in it? Either way, 221k miles are a lot of miles, but the inline 6-cylinder engines are suppose to last longer than the V8's just by the basic design of the engine (less friction). But I'm sure you'll get responses saying that's wrong too. I'm not saying it's right, just that is the common belief.

    I would bring the vehicle to a mechanic and have them check it over. They can check to see if it's given off any codes, as well as do some pretty simple stuff like a compression check of the engine. Shouldn't cost too much and could be saving you $2700 if the Jeep is a lemon.
  • 96 Grand Cherokee Limited. My dash lights have been fading in and out for some time now. By fading in and out, I mean that they go dim on their own. If I push on the dimming button they will go back to full brightness till I let go, so it seems like it might be some sort of contact somewhere.

    Has anyone else had this issue? Can you steer me in the right direction for cleaning some contacts or something?
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    You did not give any stats on the vehicle except milage(this alone discounts the vehicle by about 1200 dollars) Go to select Jeep, then the year, then limited,next page will say new and used. Look under used section at bottam right--appraise you car. Click and the page will come up for Jeep limited. Select color mileage conditions and options, You will be given--trade in value, private party sale, retail price. Scroll allt he way down for final values.
    On the seat, best bet would be to get one complete with track from a wrecking yard
    Good Luck
    S Swann--Odessa, tx
  • Any of you guys know where can I get a good condition or rebuild transmission for a 2000 grand cherokee laredo 4x4 v6 4.0L

    Thank you.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    It should be possible to verify operation of the sensor if you can find it. You may be able to test it without removing it.

    Next, examine the wiring local to the sensor. The electrical connection must be CLEAN and it must be TIGHT because you are bouncing all over the place.

    Of course, the dealer will make it clean and tight when he installs a new sensor you may not need.

    If not, you may have an issue with the Body Control Module. Find out if there are any firmware upgrades.

    Another possibility is the wiring harnesses. The BCM probably has at least 50 wires. If all else fails, try disconnecting each harness and plugging it back in. But they are hard to get to. Be careful. You will have to find out how the connector is locked into place so you can remove it. Otherwise you might break it like I did.
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