World whisky web

What's in the bottle? A single malt whisky distilled at Port Ellen on the island of Islay.

Price and stockists From £39 for a half bottle (1979, cask strength, at Tanner's of Shrewsbury). For a whole bottle, the cheapest is around £50 (1982, Douglas McGibbon), at Oddbins or specialist retailers. Whatever the age or price, only one bottle is allowed per customer at Gordon and MacPhail in Elgin, Morayshire.

What's interesting about this whisky? 'They are all different,' explains Sukhinder Singh, of The Whisky Exchange, in London. He stocks 44 bottlings in different ages and strengths. 'No two bottlings are quite the same.' His private collection is closer to 300 Port Ellens.

What does it smell and taste like? Herbal, peppery, salty, Islay malt. Beautiful balance of medium smokiness and sweetness. A certain austerity.

What does it go with? John Coltrane, Eric Dolphy, Ornette Coleman. Then, at about 5am in the morning, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon.

Serving temperature? Jazz cellar. Or armchair in front of the fire at home on a rainy Sunday. Possibly in bed.

Will it keep? It has kept since 1891.

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