Cheap Eats: Laughing Planet Cafe

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on May 26, 2010 at 2:54 PM, updated August 31, 2010 at 4:39 PM
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As the name implies, this small Portland-based chain of health-focused eating doesn't take itself too seriously. They use organic ingredients whenever possible, serve antibiotic-free chicken, and even joke about how all of the tofu they serve is free-range.

The light-hearted approach carries over to the menu, which boasts dishes with whimsical names such as "Nacho Mama," "Soylent Green" and "Chairman Meow Rice Bowl." But that doesn't mean you shouldn't take seriously what they're serving. When you order right -- think spicy instead of middle-of-the-road -- you get healthful dishes that cater to all manner of diet (the menu has helpful notations of which dishes contain nuts and which contain no animal byproducts).

The chow: Four appetizers ($1.75-$4.95) include simple fare like chips and salsa, to fried plantains with spicy barbecue sauce. For main dishes, focus on the half-dozen bowls ($4.75-$7.25), including a Cuban bowl loaded with brown rice, sweet potatoes, plantains, black beans with pico de gallo. The menu includes 10 variations on burritos ($4.25-$6.25), though you want to steer clear of the Thai-Me-Up ($5.25), a blah concoction of steamed veggies and rice. If you're really hungry, you can add grilled chicken, organic tofu or tempeh cubes for an additional $2.25 per item. For lighter appetites, there are five salads ($2.95-$6.50), including the terrific Fu Manchu ($6.50), with a mix of romaine, leaf lettuce and spinach topped with bok choy, pea pods, carrots, celery and bamboo shoots, plus toasted almonds and fried shallots.

Real deal: The starter of black bean dip and chips ($3.50) is big enough for four people to share.

Hangout factor:
Kids have the run of the place at most locations, so how you feel about the dining experience depends on your capacity for noise and perpetual motion. During quieter moments, though, these are cozy spots for digging into burritos and bowls.

Liquids: There are about 10 dairy-free smoothies, made with frozen fruit and unsweetened juice, all $3.95. In addition, there's coffee and tea, canned sodas, homemade lemonade, and beer in bottles and on draft.

What's half-baked? Some of the dishes, especially those built around the bland shiitake mushroom sauce, fall seriously short on flavor. You'll want to load up on hot sauce from the condiment bar.

Inside tip: There's a children's menu, available to diners ages 10 and younger, with bites around $3 -- including mini quesadillas, mini burritos, and rice and beans.

The numbers: Various locations, including 922 N.W. 21st Ave., 503-445-1319; lunch and dinner daily;

-- Grant Butler