Runway Makeup Made Easy

Get glamorous with makeup tips from Chanel makeup maestro Peter Philips

Courtesy of Chanel
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As the global creative director of Chanel Makeup since January 2008, Peter Philips has been the mastermind behind some of the brand's latest and greatest hits: for instance, the jade green nail polish that debuted on the runway earlier this year and spawned a gazillion gushing blog entries. Philips is known for his artistry (Great Gatsby–esque glossy black eyes at the 2009 cruise show in Venice; ornately embroidered false lashes at fall/winter 2009 RTW), but the puckish Belgian balances his avant-garde flourishes with timeless beauty basics such as flawless skin or perfectly arched brows. "Whether you like dramatic makeup or prefer to keep it simple," he says, "it's good to take a step back, look at yourself, and ask, Do I really need all of this? or Do I need a bit more? It's like when you buy a pair of shoes—you try them on and walk around the store. You should do the same with makeup. Take time to make sure it's working, and then you can play. It should be a treat you give yourself every day."

How do you keep eye gloss from looking messy?
You don't. It's meant to crease and move around. It's like wearing a designer jacket with exposed seams—some people are comfortable with that, some aren't. Dark eye gloss is a statement: It's a little trashy, a little rock 'n' roll. If you want to go for a sort of Kurt Cobain look, lay it on thick, and don't use a base with it or you'll dilute the strength of the color. That way it looks decadent, like you've been to a party or you've been onstage. If you want it more subtle, you can apply it sheer with your finger and then blend it out with a brush.

What eye shadow and lipstick hues are most universally flattering?
Natural shades like brown and beige work on most complexions, and I like gold tones because they make the skin look warmer. If you have blue eyes, try a bit of red somewhere—a lipstick, or a reddish-brown eye shadow; the contrast will bring out the color of your eyes. Intense purples look great on brown-skinned girls—they blend into the skin tone but still stand out.

What's the best way to prep skin for makeup?
I clean the face, spray it with Evian,and then apply Crème de la Mer. It's a very neutral moisturizer that works on everyone: If you have dry skin, use a bit more; if you tend to be oily, just use a small amount. It works better than a primer.

Perfect skin is the starting point for all of your runway looks. What's your secret?
I like to blend different shades of foundation to subtly sculpt the face. I use lighter shades on the places that catch the light—the bridge of the nose, the chin, the top of the cheeks—and then a shade or two darker on the sides of the face and the forehead. Then I finish with Chanel Poudre Libre, which isn't too matte. And depending on the effect I'm after, I'll use either a cotton or a silk puff.

What's the difference?
A silk puff gives a glowy finish, and a cotton puff gives a matte finish. If I haven't already sculpted the face with foundation, I like to set the makeup with a silk puff, except under the eyes, where I use cotton. If you keep the undereye area a bit matte, the rest of the face will appear more luminous—and you can create even more contrast by tapping a pearly highlighter onto the tops of your cheeks with your fingers. That really brings out the cheekbones. It's not only a game of different shades, it's a game of different textures.

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