Malmaison London

Address: Charterhouse Square, London EC1M 6AH.

Tel: 020-7012 3700.


First impressions: The chain's first London hotel looks like a Victorian mansion block (it's actually a converted nursing hostel) set in a green, cobbled square. Beyond the glass entrance (which slides open, rather sluggishly) is a large lobby furnished with suede sofa corners, tableaux of creative floristry, a distinct whiff of environmental fragrancing and smiley staff.

What are the rooms like? All 97 are 'individually designed', larger than average (for central London) and, like the rest of the hotel, furnished with dark wood, tactile fabrics and neutral colours, from a grey-taupe-brown palette with the occasional square of bright red or fuschia.

The bed test: A little on the hard side, but dressed in a soft white duvet, and a pile of plump pillows, facing the wide-screen television and the remote control CD player (a library of CDs is available in reception).

The bathroom test: Bath tub and separate power-shower cubicle, lots of stone-grey mosaics, limestone-look tiles and black marble, big white towels, and Malmaison's own jasmine and geranium toiletries.

The restaurant: The Brasserie de Malmaison serves contemporary classics (herring and pommes salad, monkfish wrapped in ham, crème brûlée), served in a flatteringly dim light.

What is there within walking distance? The Barbican, Smithfield's restaurant and bars (within five minutes), the City, St Paul's cathedral (10 minutes), the Thames and the Tate Modern (15 minutes).

How much? Standard doubles from £165 during the week, or from £99 at weekends (excluding breakfast). Three course dinner for two including wine, around £80-£100. Breakfast from £10.95pp.