The new Noma? Inside 108, the Copenhagen restaurant wowing the world's critics

Copenhagen's 108 restaurant
Copenhagen's 108 restaurant

Why go: Fermented squid may not sound like an obvious gourmet ingredient, but at 108 - the acclaimed Copenhagen restaurant that has dazzled diners ever since its launch last summer - it takes centre stage. So too do salted gooseberries, pickled currants and wild blackberries - all recent additions to an ever-changing menu that showcases locality, seasonality and sustainability.

If it sounds familiar, that’s because 108 is a spin-off of Noma - the high-end eatery that introduced us to New Nordic cuisine and is widely considered the world’s best restaurant. Thanks to Noma’s immense influence, it isn’t hard to find New Nordic nosh in the Danish capital. But few restaurants do it as well as 108 - it already has a Michelin star - nor amid such stylish surroundings. And last summer also saw the opening of a new harbour bridge to its home district, putting 108 a short stroll - or a pedal push - away from Copenhagen’s bustling city centre.

The restaurant's plain interior Credit: Malte Gormsen

The experience: A mix of well-heeled locals and jet-setting foodies help give 108 a fancy-casual vibe - one that’s reinforced by the polished service, eclectic music and slick surroundings that will delight design fans. Housed in a revamped warehouse in Copenhagen’s canal quarter, 108 is simply stunning. Local outfit SPACE Copenhagen have given it a chic industrial look, its minimalist interiors serving to showcase striking features such as bar stools made of blackened steel and dark oak, and mouth-blown pendant lamps hanging from high ceilings. The devotion to detail continues at the table, where the bespoke crockery is produced by trendy Polish ceramicist Magdalena Kaluzna, and the custom-made cutlery - like forks that rest inside spoons - comes from local design firm Table Noir.

New Nordic cuisine at 108

What to order: Expect expertly executed dishes that are as elegant as they are delicious. The menu adheres to New Nordic principles, meaning it changes seasonally. Look out for salt-baked celeriac in winter, say, or lumpfish roe in spring. Anything cured or pickled is certain to be stellar, too - like glazed pork belly with salted apples and last year’s red currants. That’s one of three dishes served “family style”. (Another is a bestseller miso-lacquered lozenge of monkfish.)

Sharing dishes often imply stinginess, but you won’t go home hungry. Such is their heft, the grilled dishes arrive at the table with a leather-sheathed hunting knife. And though the wine list is trendy -you’ll spot plenty of natural wines plus the occasional orange one - the sommeliers are savvy and seldom put a foot wrong.

Chef Kristian Baumann

Who’s behind it: Noma, of course. The head chef is Kristian Baumann, once an apprentice of René Redzepi and also a former sous-chef at Relæ - another of Copenhagen’s acclaimed restaurants. Only 30, he has foraged and fermented his way to Michelin stardom less than a year after 108’s launch.


Where to stay: It isn't the most luxurious hotel in the city by any means, but visitors attracted to 108's modern, laid-back aesthetic might appreciate Copenhagen’s latest hotspot Hotel Danmark, a boutique which opened in May. It boasts 89 stylishly appointed rooms, a lobby bar and a rooftop terrace with skyline views. Nestled in the old museum quarter, it’s well-placed for exploring the city. In contrast to its cool, contemporary accents, Hotel Danmark’s organic buffet breakfast is served in a kitsch 18th-century restaurant which specialises in smørrebrød (Denmark’s open-faced sandwiches) at lunchtime.

Hotel Danmark

What else to do: Putter round the harbour in a solar-powered GoBoat, a delightful vessel that requires no prior experience. Pack a picnic - each boat has a built-in table - and allow a couple of hours to see the sights. They include the Danish parliament, the canals of Christianshavn, more modern structures such as the Opera House and artist Olafur Eliasson’s Circle Bridge, and Papirøen, the popular street-food market which makes a handy pitstop.

The details
Copenhagen is easily reached from the UK, with direct flights offered by SAS, British Airways, easyJet, Ryanair, and Norwegian. At 108, dinner for two with wine costs about £170. Rooms at Hotel Danmark start from £220. A GoBoat costs £85 for two hours.