Thursday, July 25, 2019

We are on Pinterest!

Yahoo! We have a presence on pinterest and I have been filling it with a bunch of fun (and good) DIY bath and body recipes, eco friendly and zero waste ideas, funny animal pictures and more! 

Check us out here!

This is fun, it kind of gives me a place to put recipes that catch my eye and just another way to connect with you all. So tell me, what are some recipes you have come across that you want to try but are unsure (for whatever reason)? Feel free to submit questions and I will do my best to help you out. Also are there recipes you are looking to make but are unsure if what you are finding is worth your time? Based on what I have seen I can imagine that this is tough sometimes. I am here to help!!!

Happy pinning my friends.
~Your Soapsmith

Wednesday, July 24, 2019

A soapmakers notes from a small island

View as we arrived
Greetings from across the pond! That's right I am in the UK this month. I have loads of family still residing in both Ireland and England so it is nice to be able to come over for a visit. So far I have spent about 5 days around and about London (Wow! What a big and busy city!) size and bustle-wise it definitely rivals New York City, it even seems that it may be bigger but maybe that's just because I am not as familiar with it as I am NYC. As with any big city there is tons to see and do, the weather surprisingly has not been too rainy. We had one day of torrential downpours and all others have either been completely perfect or a tad on the warm and humid side, although nothing like New York in the summer (also much less stinky!) 

Westminster Abbey 
So far I have seen Westminster Abbey. Talk about a building full of dead folks! I literally could not walk 2 feet without being on someone's grave, it was a little unnerving at first. We did find Stephen Hawking's grave which was neat. There is also a poets corner which I rather liked.

Shri Swaminarayan Mandir
Shri Swaminarayan Mandir (the largest Hindu temple outside of India). This was an amazing off the beaten path find. It is a little outside of London and absolutely beautiful. No interior photos are allowed which is kind of nice because you have to be in the moment, enjoying the rich culture and history that is Hinduism. We walked the main "chapel" area where the gods and deities reside, I found it to be a very spiritual and special time. In the downstairs of the building is a really great exhibition that explains what Hindu is, I completely enjoyed myself. There is also an Indian restaurant and grocery store across the street so of course I had to pop in for some proper indian food (totally worth it!)

Harry Potter Walking Tour.....& RAIN
Later that day we got to go shopping at Harrods and the following day we did a Harry Potter walking tour through the city (in the pouring rain).  The walking tour was loads of fun despite the rain. Our guide was knowledgeable about HP of course but also about the city itself. Some of my favorite non-HP takeaways were seeing the Globe theater and also the Borough market a huge open air market that has been in operation since around 1020AD! 

We got to see Windsor Castle from the outside (the lines were nuts!)
Windsor Castle (the queen was in that day!)
and strolled the town of Windsor, we also visited a little village called Denham Village as that is my maiden name so of course we HAD to take a peek. (it's won awards for being the best kept village multiple years!) Sunday we were aiming for a lazy day and I thought a walk through Hyde Park would be just the ticket before heading to a small local blues fest in another park later that day. BTW soft serve ice cream here is called Mr. Whipee, HA! 

On Monday we packed up the London Flat and headed for the countryside stopping off at Stonehenge first or course, which was magnificent! There is so much more to this place than just a bunch of big stones mysteriously placed. It was built over a very long period of time and by many different groups of people, it makes me wonder what about this place is so special.

After that we headed to our cousins country house in Bristol which is just lovely. It is quiet and spacious which is a nice change from the city as always. We barely set our suitcases down and were whisked off to see our younger cousin play in a cricket match! Now- I am not sure, dear reader, if you have ever seen a cricket game but I have not. I liken it to being vaguely similar to baseball with less bases and more rules.... 

Wells Cathedral
Yesterday we met MORE cousins which was lovely and went to the town of Wells where much of the movie Hot Fuzz was filmed. It was so cool walking the streets that a movie I like has been filmed on. After a quick refresh in the pub we did a driving tour of a super hippie dippie town called Gloucester which apparently has roots in the King Arthur tales (I need to get myself back there someday). We then drove through Cheddar gulch. It was really beautiful and there are these cute little wild sheep that hop all around on the rocks and eat all the grasses. This is the home of cheddar cheese as I am told because there are many caves around the area which are perfect for ageing cheddar in. I love cheese and was sad we didn't have time to stop and sample it (all). It just gives me an excuse to stop back ;)

WHEW! Gosh that was a lot! I am a bit tired today so I vetoed doing any activities today in lieu of just lounging around (a girl needs a break!) Tomorrow we will be back on track with more fun and adventures with family so that will be nice. I leave you with a few pictures, enjoy.....

Where are everyone's summer vacations taking them this year?

TaTa for now

Thursday, July 18, 2019

Essential Oils, the series- Part 3

Howdy Soapsmith Nation! I hope all are well and enjoying their summer (winter if you are in the Southern Hemisphere of course). 

I seemed to have skipped right over part 2 of my essential oil series and dove right into the heart of part 3 so here you go. I sometimes eat dessert before This post really digs into one specific term that is often heard and very misused.

I am frequently asked what brand of essential oils I use in my products and always happy to answer the question. However I sometimes believe that the person asking is hoping I will say I use the oils of one or another of the large and well known MLM companies which have a serious foothold on the aromatherapy industry at the moment. Let me tell you something, if I used the oils from those companies my products would not be affordable. Those companies do not sell in bulk and are intended for individual use only (oh and also, they prohibit the marketing of their oils in products intended for resale.) So for many reasons I do not use their oils. 

While I assume their oils are as good as many other companies I do not believe them to be superior, I also typically find their reps to be un- or undereducated in the safe use of essential oils which ticks me off because the reps are totally passionate about their products, these companies should invest in them by properly educating them. 

That's for another post on another day though. Today I want to write about a specifically misleading marketing term. The term is Therapeutic grade. This term popped up at some point in the 90's and many companies jumped on the bandwagon stating that their oils were also therapeutic grade. There are no quality standards for authentication and no tests and determines the grades of ANY essential oils. In fact have you ever seen a grade A, B, C or D? Nope because it's not a thing. 

I am going to drop a link into the bottom of this post because the woman who wrote it was very clear and concise, I couldn't have written it any better (nor would I have written it differently so why plagerize her work?) There are a few other terms that she brings to light with really great explanations. Please take a look and expand your knowledge base. Next time someone starts spouting off about therapeutic grade (blah, blah, blah) you can smile that smile that people do when they know a really great secret  ;)

because what is cuter than this!?
The quality of essential oils 

Man we are a smart bunch of cookies today! 

TaTa my friends

Thursday, July 11, 2019

Watering down liquid soap to make it last longer

Today I am going to write about a topic that has brought me angst for ages. I have finally decided to speak up on this. All too often I will be at someone's house and need to wash my hands and spy a soap dispenser at the edge of the sink and go squirting away with the soap only to discover that it has been watered down beyond belief (like's not even soap sometimes!). Well I typically stand there and try to decide if I want to wash my hands with what is most likely bacteria laden bubble water or if I just give up and feel like a dirtball until I get home. Sometimes I reflect upon a third option.....which is to rub my hands really hard on the towel that is usually nearby, as if that will accomplish anything.

Ok let's talk about liquid hand soap that you would buy in the grocery store. I am specifically talking about the commercially made stuff which sometimes has additional ingredients to make it anti-bacterial and sometimes just cleans and moisturizes. Ultimately they all accomplish the goal of cleaning in some capacity. These products are typically created from lab made synthetics and are a balanced formula including their preservative when they go into the bottle. SOOOOOO.....when you add water to this formula you are diluting out everything including the preservation system thereby making it ineffective. 

Why does this matter? You are subjecting the thing that you bought to clean your hands to microbial growth, yes, you are effectively going to end up washing your hands with bacteria, fungus and yeast (YUCK!) Why use the soap at all I ask? This also goes for a hand made liquid soap, if you purchase it from someone and it's ready to be used then guess's a balanced formula too and will become unbalanced if you start tinkering with it. 

Well what about those nifty little soap foamer things? The soap that goes in to them is formulated to be thinner and has the appropriate amount of preservative so they can do their job and not be subject to microbial growth. Taking regular soap and adding water will still get you a bacterial filled foamer which as we now know is just gross.

What about concentrated products that say specifically to add water to them? Good question, follow the instructions on the bottle and you should end up with a safe and effective product. OR if you must over dilute it for whatever reason make sure you finish it up in one use.

The two most common argument I hear for watering down liquid soap is that it's either too expensive and this helps the pocketbook or that you will be at the store in a few days and just need to stretch it until then. Look, I hear both arguments and acknowledge that life is tough both on the pocketbook and on the freetime-o-meter. If it's too expensive, switch to bar soap, I promise you that it WILL clean your hands. If you need to stretch your soap for a few days just remember that microbial growth can start in as little as 24 hours. 

This, my smart and savvy friends is my PSA on watering down liquid soap. If you ever see me standing at a sink twitching you can pretty much assume that I am standing there wondering what to do about my dirty hands and why on earth someone else has gone and watered down a perfectly balanced product.

All the best to you in perfectly formulated bubbles
~Your Soapsmith

Thursday, July 4, 2019

The Skin

Let's talk about our largest organ. THE SKIN! 
Fun facts:

  • The skin is part of the integumentary system which comprises the hair, skin, nails, specialized glands and nerves.
  • The skin is the largest and heaviest organ- it comprises 16% of your bodies weight, (bonus fact- the liver is the second largest and heaviest).
  • The skin is a barrier, a thermostat, a sensor, a factory and a window.
  • The skin can be broken down into 3 major layers with minor layers living within those layers
    • the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis
      • The epidermis has 5 layers (stratum corneum is the top most layer with stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale following deeper and deeper.)
      • The has 2 layers and it's main job is to connect the epidermis to the hypodermis and provide structure and support (papillary layer and connective tissue are it's 2 layers)
      • The hypodermis has one layer it's job is to provide insulation and support.
Alright- let's break this all down! I am going to focus on the epidermis because that is the part that is most directly affected by skin care products.

The skin is a barrier. I am going to repeat this THE SKIN IS A BARRIER, it is NOT a sponge. Every time I see someone write this on FB or say it I die a little bit on the inside. If the skin were a sponge we would drown every time we took a shower or bath. 
The skin is a waterproof barrier that seals the body from losses of fluid that could lead to dehydration and death. It resists invasions by various types of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and viruses that cause infection and serious illness. The skin also blocks many chemicals and allergens from entering the body.

The skin is a thermostat. The skin has the ability to help cool you down or keep you warm, it works in conjunction with the blood vessels to do this. 

The skin is a sensor. It has millions of receptors and nerve endings. There are different types of receptors which perceive different stimuli.

The skin is a factory. The skin is the body's vitamin D production factory. We need vitamin D to build healthy bones a strong immune system which will in turn fight cancers and other diseases as well as mitigate depression and even multiple sclerosis.

The skin is a window. How you feel inside directly affects how your skin can look. If you are happy and healthy and internally balanced it will be reflected in your skin. If you are stressed, anxious, depressed or have some internal health issues it can be reflected by way of skin flare-ups, disease processes, brittle nails and hair. People with eczema and psoriasis tend to have flare-ups when they are stressed or having diet issues.* 

Let's talk epidermal layers!
Stratum corneum- contains 15-20 layers of dead skin cells that ultimately slough off.

Stratum lucidum- this layer is mainly found on thick skin like the palms of the hands and soles of feet, it contains dead keratinocytes.
Stratum granulosum- keratin and lipids that waterproof the skin are produced in this layer
Stratum spinosum- synthesis of keratin proteins begins in this layer
Stratum basale- the cells of this layer divide indefinitely to form daughter cells that rise through the epidermis. Basal cell cancers arise from this level.

Skin and skin care products. Some ingredients can absorb into the deeper layers of the epidermis, these are called active ingredients. Cosmetic chemists often talk about the penetration abilities of ingredients. This is what they are referring to. 

Other ingredients can absorb even deeper, sometimes because of the penetrative abilities and what they can accomplish on a deeper level these products fall into the category of being a drug and must be tested and approved through the FDA, by the way, sunscreen falls into this category, never buy sunscreen that is not FDA approved, you have no idea if it will actually provide the protection that it claims otherwise. On a side note, at this time, there is only one approved CBD topical that has been proven to penetrate deeply and be effective for bone and joint pain. Consider this if you are in the market for a CBD topical that you want to penetrate deeply. 

Some products sit on top of the skin and work their magic at that level, many handcrafted skin care items fall into this category. (some makers do use active ingredients and have products that penetrate deeper.) At the time of writing this post SOAPSMITHS products do not contain any actives nor do they fall into the category of a drug. 

Hard Cider Soap by Soapsmiths
When formulating products I take into consideration what I am trying to achieve. If I am making soap I need it to clean. THAT IS IT! If someone gives you a song and dance about other properties their soap has just smile and nod because you now know that it only cleans and as a wash off product it most likely does nothing else. The second someone claims any differently their soap becomes either a cosmetic or a drug and they could be up a creek without a paddle if the government folks catch wind of it.

Sugar Scrub by Soapsmiths

When formulating a scrub I want it to exfoliate those dead Stratum corneum cells so that the lotion that I will apply after can hydrate and protect the layers of skin that were under them.

Cocoa Mint Creme by Soapsmiths

When creating a lotion I want it to hydrate and protect. The best way to do this is to use a combination of oils and waxes which will both sit on top of the skin forming an occlusive barrier while also hydrating those top most layers. A product like a lotion is really the place to add special ingredients which may improve skin barrier function. The only way to really know would be to submit it for testing. Most small makers don't have the financial means to do this so we take our ingredient and formulating knowledge and build a product based on what we know. 

So there you have it. The skin is an amazing giant organ which keeps good things (like our organs and fluids) in and bad things (bacteria, yeast, fungi, etc.) out! Treat it well and you two should have a long and prosperous life together.

I also referred to the Reader's Digest Guide to Skin Care by Susan C. Taylor, M.D. and Victoria Holloway Barbosa, M.D.

Additionally I popped over to a blog called the Chemists Corner for information on the penetration of ingredients.

* Regarding my comment on eczema and psoriasis, if you are having trouble with skin conditions please seek professional medical advice, I am not trained in human medicine and do not make any claims or diagnoses with what I write.

~Yours in scientific musings