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Have you tasted these 12 thalis of India?

Kumaoni, Malvani, Gomantak and more


Designed to include a multitude of flavours, textures, aromas and nutrients, the Indian thali still carries the legacy of Avurveda and our ancient beliefs around wellness and the holistic power of food.  Interestingly, a lot of new age food fads stem from our existing thali traditions. The power of plating for example, is intricately showcased in a good old-fashioned thali, which focuses on a visual appeal of course, but also on ensuring food is served in the manner that it should be consumed. Similarly, the construct of a palate cleanser, or even an appetite ‘activator’ has existed in certain thalis long before they became the buzz word for the swish set.  More than anything else, the humble thali continues to remain a microcosm of the culture it represents, and collectively perhaps the most visible identifier of our unity in diversity narrative. Here’s a quick look at 12 thalis, unique to their regions:

The Bohri Thaal

The traditional Bohri Thaal. Photo: The Bohri Kitchen

The Bohri’s are a small sub-sect of the Shia Muslim community that are believed to have originated in Yemen, and made their way to India via the Middle East, a migration that reflects in their unique culinary traditions. A family eats from one giant plate, called the Thaal, a smorgasbord of delicious treats categorised as Kharaas (appetisers), Meethas ( the sweet stuff) and Jaman ( mains), and sweet treats are typically enjoyed between the savoury courses, to break the monotony and reset your palate. The Kharaas include the signature mutton kheema samosas, made with smoked minced lamb and spring onions, Chicken Shammi, and a very indulgent slow cooked Raan in red masala. The Meethas star classics like the malai khaja, a Bohri puff pastry stuffed with fresh cream and a ghee and mawa laden gajar ka halwa. This is followed by the mutton kaari, a coconut and kokum based gravy with tender chunks of mutton eaten with rice. Finish off this meat heavy decadence with the peru sancha ice-cream—hand churned guava ice-cream served with a sprinkle of red chilli powder.

Where to eat it: The Bohri Kitchen in Mumbai

The Goan Catholic Thali

The Goan Catholic Thali. Photo: Bernardo’s, Gurgaon

A fusion of Indian and Portuguese cooking styles and flavours, this meal is meat and seafood heavy, and known for the use of a distinctive local vinegar made from the toddy of local coconut trees. Starters include Anglo-style chops made of spiced mutton mince and vegetarian croquettes, post which steamed rice is paired with a range of piquant curries from the coriander and green chilli laden chicken cafreal to the traditional fish curry that has a tart twist of Goan kokum to the vegetable temperade (okra simmered in a mild coconut milk based yellow curry). The spread typically also includes sannas, spongy steamed savoury rice cakes that pair excellently with the classic pork vindalho (succulent boneless pork cubes slow cooked in spices and vinegar).

Where to eat it: Viva Panjim in Panaji, Goa

The Gomantak Thali

The Gomantak thali. Photo: Kokni Kanteen, Goa

Lesser known then it’s more famous Catholic cousin outside of Goa, the Gomantak style of cooking skips the beef and pork and romances seafood in all its glory. Byadagi chillies, kokum, raw mango and tamarind are used liberally, imparting a distinctive punch to the gravies. Meals start with a sungta hooman (the classic Goan prawn curry) and a rava (semolina) encrusted piece of flaky Kingfish, and the indulgence can be dialled up with a crab or chicken curry. Drier treats along with the curries include the tisryo sukha (clams cooked with chillies and coconut) and the kismoor (dried prawns mixed with coconut) and sol kadi is a favoured digestive to end the meal with.

Where to eat it: Kokni Kanteen, Panaji, Goa

The Haryanvi Thali

The Haryanvi Thali. Photo: The Gateway Resort, Damdama Lake, Gurgaon

Simple rustic flavours are inherent to a good Haryanvi meal, with ingredients and flavours inevitably linked to the land. Milk and milk products like ghee, fresh butter and lassi are staple and the nutrient rich pearl millet or bajra is used to make both earthy rotis and a comforting porridge style khichri.  While meals are predominantly vegetarian, featuring favourites like an easy aloo palak, a yellow pumpkin curry (pethe ki sabzi), or a classic Haryanvi mixed dal (which is a delicious melange of five pulses), occasionally meat is also savoured: typically a home style chicken or fish curry, cooked with local spices and lots of onion.

Where to eat it: The Gateway Resort, Damdama Lake, Gurgaon

The Kashmiri Pandit Thali

The Kashmiri Pandit Thali. Photo: Matamaal Restaurant, Gurgaon

Adhering to Brahminic codes, but with a twist, the Kashmiri Pandits eat meat and occasionally fish, but food is cooked without onion and garlic and immense flavour is imparted through the use of spice powders, most notably hing (asafoetida), saunth (dry ginger) and saunf (fennel). Start your meal with the kabargah—crispy ribs of a young goat cooked in milk and whole spices, before moving to heartier fare. Rice is the mainstay and enjoyed with a host of indulgent mutton preparations, from the classic Rogan Josh to the much loved masc (minced meatballs), the very tender yoghurt based mutton yakhni and the chok charwan (lamb liver cooked in tamarind) for slightly more adventurous diners. Balance all the richness with the mild-mannered haak (collard greens) and a zesty mooli chutney.

Where to eat it: Matamaal, Gurgaon

The Kumaoni Thali

A Kumaoni Thali. Photo: The Kumaon, Kasar Devi in Almora

Feel the cool mountain breeze and the scent of pine with every bite of this extremely indigenous thali that pairs seasonal produce with an array of wild pahadi herbs and spices. A typical meal features a daal (the bhatt ki churkhani is a favourite, pairing a locally grown soy black bean with rice paste), a green (the lai ka saag is a local variant of the red mustard leaves) and the Bhang chutney (made with hemp seeds and with a distinct tartness). The alu ke gutke add a nice comforting zing to the meal, and meat eaters can rejoice in the hearty pahadi style chicken curry that is slow cooked in an iron kadai for added rustic flavour.

Where to eat it: The Kumaon, Kasar Devi in Almora

The Kerala thali

A Kerala thali. Photo: Mahabelly, New Delhi.

A typical meal in God’s own country centres around rice, fresh vegetables and a lot of coconut—coconut flesh, coconut oil and even the milk of the sap, and a more elaborate version of this all-veg affair is also the ceremonial meal or the sadhya. The rice is typically the local red rice or the matta rice, and enjoyed with a plethora of flavourful curries like the parippu (a spiced lentil curry), a tart pacchadi (a traditional combination of coarse coconut and yoghurt) and the comforting avial. Sides include a sprightly thoran (an easy stir fry finished off with freshly roasted coconut), a peppery rasam and a crunchy Pappadum for good measure. Wash everything down with some spiced buttermilk or moru, and end the meal with a portion of the payasam. 

Where to eat it: Mahabelly, Kottayam

The Malvani Thali

A Malvani thali. Photo:Jay Dhawan at Malvani Kalvan, Mumbai

Known to be fiery and spicy, Malvani food is a coastal cuisine that is dominated by seafood, and makes use of coconut liberally in various forms. A secret blend of several masala produces the Malvani masala that is the mainstay of most curries. The kolambi fry (spiced prawns rolled in rice flour and semolina and deep fried) is a common starter, and tandlachi bhakri (or the rice roti) pairs perfectly with the rich curries, including the coconut prawn curry. There is some vegetarian representation too, including a lesser known masoor chi amitia red lentil curry that is equal parts spicy and tangy. Meals end with the sol kadi—a cooling and digestive drink made of kokum and coconut milk and the tempering of spices and curry leaves.

Where to eat it: JP’s Lunch Home, Mumbai

The Panchdhaan Khichada Thali

The Panchdhaan Khichada Thali. Photo: Varq, The Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi

The khichada is essentially a porridge style multi-grain wonder that has been a traditional Mughlai treat, a slow cooked melting pot of meat, lentils and grains. This Rajasthani version is a vegetarian take on this, and contains five grains—oats, black rice, millets, wheat and lentils to make a nourishing and satisfying meal. Just like our well-entrenched khichdi traditions, this one pot meal is also enjoyed with a multitude of accompaniments, including tempered curd, aromatic smoked ghee that has just a hint of sweetness, fried green chillies for a dash of heat, a ker sangri pickle, a crunchy puff mix and a delightfully tart amrood sabzi ki potli.

Where to eat it: Varq at The Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi

The Organic Punjabi Thali

The Organic Punjabi Thali. Photo: The Roseate.

The wheat basket of the country, no Punjabi meal is complete without a roti or a hearty parantha, a ghee tempered dal, lots of fresh green vegetables, a pickle and of course, dairy products in diverse forms. This thali features the much loved kadhai paneer (cottage cheese simmered in an onion tomato thick gravy), a crunchy bhindi do pyaaza, the subz miloni (a fine melange of seasonal veggies) and a comforting bowl of spinach and yellow dal tempered with cumin, all of which can be savoured with a robust bajra roti. The meal is accompanied by a farm fresh salad, a carrot radish pickle, whole garlic pearls tempered with aromatic ghee, and unprocessed jaggery for an earthy sweetness. Rice is usually an indulgence, and often enjoyed pulao style, cooked with turmeric and a smattering of tender peas.

Where to eat it: Kiyan at The Roseate, New Delhi

The Sindhi Thali

The Sindhi Thali. Photo: Sindhful, Mumbai.

The Sindhi’s love for easy and earthy food shines through in a typical meal. Fresh vegetables play a dominant role, both in the sindhi kadhi (unlike Punjabi or Gujarati versions, this is a more robust veggie laden affair) and the classic sai bhaji, a delightful potpourri of greens, lentils and vegetables. Both of these pair well with either steamed rice, or the bhugha chawal (Sindhi style rice cooked with caramelised onions and spices) and a side of the bhindi basar (crispy dry okra tossed with onions) and the legendary Sindhi papad. If you’re hungry for more, the dal pakwan (which is typically a breakfast special) is an addictive treat that pairs spicy chana dal with crispy flat puris, with a hint of coriander and tamarind chutney. Cool off with some rose sharbat or a portion of the creamy sevai kheer.

Where to eat it: Sindhful, Mumbai

The Tamil Saatvik Thali

The Tamil Saatvik Thali. Photo: Uma Raghuraman.

A gut detox in the true sense of the word, this saatvik thali is not just sans meat, and onion and garlic, it is also dairy and gluten free! Begin with a light refreshing salad (the julienned carrot kosumalli), before moving on to slightly more hearty fare. The beans paruppu usili (a stir fry with bits of besan) pairs perfectly with boiled rice and the hot milagu kuzhambu (a pepper curry with a kick), or you could also savour the light, easy flavours that shine through in the kose poriyal (cabbage stir-fry) or the nutty and mildly tart lemon rice. End on a deliciously decadent note: the payatham paruppu payasam has the warm embrace of coconut milk and the lingering sweetness of jaggery.

Where to eat it: Annalakshmi Restaurant, Chennai

GIFs by Rhea Kewalramani.

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