The Unbeatable Weapon for Poker, Blackjack, Bridge, And Gin

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NEOCHEATING The Unbeatable Weapon for Poker, Blackjack, Bridge, and Gin

The Neo-Tech Pre-Discovery The Bad News, The Good News Preface Foreword by John Finn Interview with Dr. Frank R. Wallace about Neo-Tech versus Neocheating Introduction

PART ONE NEOCHEATlNG -- SOMETHING NEW AND EASY SOMETHING LETHAL I The Nature of Cheating 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Defining cheating Accepting cheaters Rejecting cheaters Detecting cheaters Professional and amateur cheating Why poker players are prone to cheating Beating all cheaters Protection from public-casino cheating

II The First Move - Cutting Aces 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Step one -- locating an ace in seconds Step two -- getting the ace to the bottom in one shuffle Step three -- positioning the ace Step four -- cutting the ace Letting others cut first Forcing others to cut deuces and treys Putting it all together -- quickly and easily Detection and defense

III The Second Move -- Stacking Four of a Kind 1. Three techniques for stacking without shuffling


2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Stacking aces back-to-back in stud Knowing everyone's hole cards Stacking face-down discards Stacking four of a kind and wheels Detection and defense

IV The Third Move -- Controlling Hands 1. 2. 3. 4.

Controlling hands while shuffling Controlling hands while riffling Controlling hands while cutting Controlling hands as other players cut

V Culling and Stacking -- The Invisible Way 1. Culling and stacking the Neocheating way 2. Detecting and defending against stacking VI False Cutting -- The Easy Way 1. False cutting the Neocheating way 2. Detecting and defending against false cutting VII Peeking and Colluding -- The Safe Way 1. Peeking the Neocheating way 2. Colluding the Neocheating way 3. Detecting and defending against peeking and colluding VIII Degrees of Neocheating and Future Neocheating 1. More difficult Neocheating 2. Future possibilities IX The Inevitable Spread of Neocheating

PART TWO DEFENSES AND COUNTERATTACKS X White-Hat Neocheating and Other Defenses and Counterattacks Against Cheating 1. Understanding the cheater 2. Stopping cheating and the cheater 3. White-hat Neocheating


4. 5. 6. 7.

Defending against Neocheating Stopping the Neocheater Counterattacking with white-hat Neocheating Electronic cards

PART THREE BECOMING THE NEOCHEATER XI The Unbeatable Neocheater and Black-Hat Neocheating 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Understanding the Neocheater The Advanced-Concept player versus the Neocheater The Ultimate Neocheater The forbidden question The final showdown

XII The Neo-Tech Discovery XIII Neocheating Beyond Cards

APPENDICES A Cheating as a Metaphor B An Obituary for Traditional and Classical Cheaters C A $5000 Reward to Seal the Neocheater's Coffin Index Table: Neocheating Beyond Cards

NEO-TECH I The Pre-Discovery An Important Notice

Do not be concerned or upset by the focus on cards and cheating in this first volume-Neo-Tech I. Both cards and cheating are used as metaphors to understand the nature of Neocheaters and Neo-Tech in the second, larger volume--Neo-Tech II.


You are not expected to be knowledgeable or even interested in cards, much less cheating, to make full use of the Neo-Tech Discovery. In fact, interest in cards and cheating is a time-wasting (although quickly profitable) diversion that prevents full prosperity from Neo-Tech. If you, as most owners of Neo-Tech, are not interested in cards or cheating, then read only Chapters XII and XIII on pages 164-167, Appendix A ("Cheating as a Metaphor") on page 168, and Table 5 ("Neocheating Beyond Cards") on page 178.

SYNOPSIS OF THE NEO-TECH DISCOVERY The Neo-Tech Discovery allows ordinary people to live much more prosperous lives. Anyone can immediately benefit from Neo-Tech. Moreover, the Neo-Tech Discovery debunks "positive thinking," mystical, and other such approaches that lead to nothing. The uses of the Neo-Tech Discovery range from making anyone unbeatable at cards (even wealthy, if he chooses, as shown in Neo-Tech I), to much more important uses such as gaining power and advantages where it really counts. . . in business, financial transactions, social relationships (as shown in Neo-Tech II), to breaking free of external authorities to gain the greatest possible rewards (as shown in Neo-Tech III, IV and V). Equally important, Neo-Tech not only protects one from those who cheat others out of the happy, prosperous life they earn, but Neo-Tech transfers the power from external authorities (government, religion, neocheaters, mystics) to one's own self-where the power belongs.

Bound Manuscript Copy Copyright 1980,1981,1982,1983 by Frank R. Wallace All rights reserved. No part of this manuscript may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by an information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. NEOCHEATING

THE RISING MENACE Neocheating--The Unbeatable Weapon and the Neo-Tech Discovery Beyond Cards


by Frank R. Wallace Mark Hamilton William S. Neocheating exists as (1) specific techniques and (2) general concepts. The specific techniques are based on the safe and invisible Neocheating maneuvers first uncovered by Frank R. Wallace. Those techniques that apply to card games are identified and taught in Part One of this book. The Neocheating techniques are selected for their effectiveness, safety, and subtlety. They have obsoleted all other techniques, such as those described by S.W. Ernase, Scarne, and others. But far more important have been the discovery, development, and understanding of the Neocheating concepts. Those concepts unfold in the latter chapters. And with those totally new concepts, the reader can both profitably apply and effectively counter invisible Neocheating not only in card games but in all areas of life including business, politics, and social relationships.

THE BAD NEWS This book reveals something new -- something dangerous. This book reveals the lethal techniques of Neocheating. With Neocheating, the average cardplayer can bankrupt all his opponents. He can safely drain money from any card game, from the easiest Friday-night game to the toughest professional game. And no one will ever see him cheat. Neocheating is not like classical or traditional cardsharping that requires years of practice or a dangerous reliance on aids such as marked cards and hold-out devices. Neocheating requires no special skills or devices; it requires only the knowledge in this book and a few hours of practice. With less than a day's practice, a player can wipe out his opponents with invisible Neocheating. And with less than a week's practice, he can quit his job to become a full-time professional Neocheater. Honest players should realize that many cardplayers would cheat if not for (1) their fear of being caught, or for (2) the time and effort required to learn how to cheat effectively. But Neocheating eliminates both deterrents. And as this easy, invisible Neocheating spreads, it will increasingly menace players of poker, blackjack, badge, gin, and all other card games played for money or prestige. ... That is the bad news.

THE GOOD NEWS But this book reveals something more -- something extraordinary. This book reveals simple defenses and easy counterattacks that nullify or beat all forms of cheating, including Neocheating. The counterattacks are unique, ingenious, and honest. They can be executed in peace and without the knowledge of others.


While cheaters will find a temporary gold mine in this book, honest players with this new knowledge can identify and easily eliminate (without any hassle) all cheaters. Furthermore, this book shows how any player can now, for the first time, casually beat all cheaters from crude amateurs to highly skilled cardsharps -- even invisible Neocheaters. And those cheaters will never know what hit them. As this knowledge spreads, it will increasingly nullify and eventually eliminate cheating not only in poker but in all card games played for money or prestige.... That is the good news.


PREFACE The Neocheating Revolution Imagine if simple techniques were available that would enable anyone -- after only a few hours of practice -- to invisibly relieve cardplayers of all their money. Now imagine if those techniques were available to everyone. What would happen to poker? And what about other card games played for money such as blackjack, bridge, and gin? Would poker and other card games break up and vanish as this effortless and invisible cheating spreads? Effortless and invisible cheating? Is that only a dream of those seeking easy money and prestige? Well, that dream has come true. The dream is called Neocheating. And this book identifies, illustrates, and teaches Neocheating -- clearly and completely. Neocheating will eventually become known around the world. Cardplayers from the Las Vegas professional to the neighborhood amateur will increasingly use Neocheating. It is contagious and will spread like an epidemic. Yet by simply reading this book, you will have armed yourself with the knowledge needed both to profit from Neocheating and to turn back all threats of the Neocheating revolution.


FOREWORD BY JOHN FINN For the first time, good players need to worry about getting wiped out. A new breed of cheater is invading the card tables. He is the Neocheater. And the Neocheater does not lose. Neocheating is quietly spreading. What will happen when hoards of people using Neocheating invade card games throughout the world? Those people could drain all available money from all players and games. The resulting paranoia and chaos could eventually destroy most card games played for money. Neocheating is invisible. How can it be stopped? The Neocheater is impossible to catch in the act and hard to get rid of. Indeed, all honest players unaware of Neocheating are in financial danger. Only the readers of this book can prepare themselves for the Neocheating revolution.


The 1986 Interview with Dr. Frank R. Wallace about Neo-Tech versus Neocheating A new field of knowledge was discovered by Dr. Frank R. Wallace. For two decades, Dr. Wallace developed a powerful array of integrated knowledge called Neo-Tech. In 1986, Dr. Wallace was interviewed about Neo-Tech. Below is a condensed, edited portion of that interview which explains his early discoveries: Q: What is Neo-Tech? How can I benefit from it? WALLACE: Neo-Tech is a new, integrated method for capturing major business and personal advantages everywhere. Neo-Tech has nothing to do with positive thinking, religion, or anything mystical. Once a person is exposed to Neo-Tech, he can quietly profit from any situation -- anywhere, anytime. He can prosper almost anywhere on earth and succeed under almost any economic or political condition. Neo-Tech applies to all money and power gathering techniques -- to all situations involving the transfer of money, business, power, or love Ironically, I first sensed Neo-Tech through poker -- the money game, the international strategy game. Strange how a discovery so important as Neo-Tech started with something so minor and restricted as poker. Indeed, poker is just one rather minute and insignificant area involving the transfer of money in which a person can profit through Neo-Tech. Subsequently, I pursued Neo-Tech beyond cards to uncover far greater advantages in competitive situations involving work, investments, speculating, business, politics, and personal relationships. Neo-Tech applies to all competitive situations: It is a new, quiet approach for collecting unbeatable advantages everywhere. Neo-Tech has its roots in the constant financial pressures and incentives to develop the easiest, most profitable methods of gaining advantages. Over the decades, successful salesmen, businessmen, politicians, writers, lawyers, entrepreneurs, investors, speculators, gamers, and Casanovas have secretly searched for shortcuts that require little skill yet contain the invisible effectiveness of the most advanced techniques. I identified those shortcuts and honed them into practical formats called Neo-Tech. Q: Is Neo-Tech like cheating; is it a metaphor for cardsharps, Don Juans, con artists, dishonest merchants, destructive politicians? WALLACE: Definitely not. Neo-Tech is totally honest and ethical; it is not based on fraud, collusion, gall, hustling or swindling as are most cheating techniques and con jobs. Indeed, Neo-Tech requires no special skill, devices, or nerve. Neo-Tech requires no risk or changes in life style -- only a new integrated knowledge that generates advantages and power. Moreover, Neo-Tech renders deception and cheating ploys so obsolete that they are no longer an important threat. ...Someday Neo-Tech will 10

dominate all competitive situations as it spreads into business and personal relationships. Q: Who exactly is the Neo-Tech person? WALLACE: He's a person of quiet power -- a person who cannot lose. He can control not only every competitive situation, but can vanquish every threatening situation. Q: What actually makes him so effective? WALLACE: Neo-Tech is totally natural. Thus, it can be executed anytime, anywhere with casual confidence. The techniques let a person gain unbeatable advantages consistently and comfortably -- year after year, decade after decade. Eventually, NeoTech men and women will quietly control all. Q: In the real world, how quickly can I benefit from Neo-Tech? WALLACE: A person can use Neo-Tech immediately to gain advantages needed to prosper in business and in personal relationships. Additionally, that person can never be taken advantage of again in any business transaction, investment, or personal contact. His Neo-Tech knowledge protects him. It arms him with a sword and shield. Neo-Tech knowledge is the best insurance policy anyone could own: Within days, a person with Neo-Tech can gain more power than most people without Neo-Tech can gain in a lifetime. Q: Specifically, what does Neo-Tech mean to the ordinary person? WALLACE: Well, to be specific, the most potent shortcuts prior to Neo-Tech were beyond the reach of ordinary people as only the money/power giants developed the combinations to unlock and use those shortcuts. Moreover, those potent but customized or highly specialized shortcuts in specific fields could not help most people even if they had access to those shortcuts. In addition, the nature of those potent shortcuts limited the money/power giants to their particular fields. Still, genuine power lies beneath all those customized shortcuts. Neo-Tech not only captures that power but brings everything down to earth and removes all limitations. That, in turn, yields a still greater power that even the money/power giants were denied. More important, today, most ordinary men and women will only flounder through life until they discover Neo-Tech. Q: Beyond the immediate financial advantages and quick profits available from NeoTech, how will the Neo-Tech Discovery affect you and me in the real society? WALLACE: Neo-Tech meets the criteria: certain and safe -- but powerful. Therefore, more and more people will increasingly use Neo-Tech in all areas. And the lives of those people will grow richer. Of those, some will choose to use Neo-Tech concepts to gain enormous power and wealth. But, equally important, people knowledgeable


about Neo-Tech cannot be drained by others. The ordinary person, no matter how low on the power scale, can reverse the situation. With Neo-Tech, a person can take away the power from those Neocheaters who have drained that person for years or decades. That capturing of personal power through Neo-Tech is crucial. For, all major Neocheaters today extract money and power from the masses of unknowledgeable people. How? Through the subtly camouflaged usurpation and destruction of values created, built, or earned by others. In fact, those value destroyers use Neocheating without fear of being caught, without suspicion. ...And they are successful to the extent they use Neocheating. Consider how many of the most successful politicians have for years destructively regulated and harmfully controlled the value producers. They have neocheated the public for unearned personal power. Their power ploys have created jungles of destructive regulations and inefficiencies. They hassle busy individuals, cripple creative scientists, and prevent private enterprise from fully developing its productive and technological capacities. That arrogated authority not only diminishes everyone's spirit, but diminishes everyone's standard of living and even prevents the development of cures for scourges such as heart disease, cancer, and AIDS. Q: You know, "60 Minutes" recently dealt with something like that. And I hear about that kind of thing more and more these days. How can it be stopped? WALLACE: Today, as Neo-Tech spreads, people in steadily increasing numbers can, for the first time, avoid the harmful ploys of those external authorities. As people become informed about Neo-Tech, they will identify and circumvent those master Neocheaters who have previously drained them. Now, ordinary people will fill their own pockets with profits rather than lining the pockets of Neocheaters. As more and more people learn about Neo-Tech, they will increasingly understand that professional mystics, pragmatic politicians, bogus-job bureaucrats, and other such false authorities are destructive drains on value producers and society. I have two charts that demonstrate how most people have unknowingly let their lives be drained by those external authorities. This information also shows how the informed will financially and emotionally benefit by breaking free from those master Neocheaters. Indeed, everyone informed of Neo-Tech will have the tools not only to break free but to profit from the decline of external authority. Furthermore, this information shows exactly how the average person can turn into a Neo-Tech person...a person who can acquire far greater advantages than any Neocheater -even a master Neocheater. Q: Your charts uncover things I was never aware of. It's bad enough that those Neocheaters conceal their ripped-off power, but it's rotten how they're doing it by draining me, you, and everyone else.... WALLACE: Yet, we're the ones who hold the power on this planet. Most people have never been aware of that fact. Now, with Neo-Tech, we can totally control our future. 12

That's why the Neocheaters never told us their secret. For, we would take away their power that is rightfully ours. You, like everyone else, could never really know the facts behind external authorities without understanding Neo-Tech. The actions of such external authorities usually depend on Neocheating -- on undetectable routes to easy money or power at the expense of others. They seemingly benefit their victims by giving them guidance, leadership, or doctrines to follow -- making those victims easy to control. Fortunately, however, publicly revealing Neo-Tech exposes the Neocheater's essence. That will lead to the eventual demise of external authority. Indeed, today, you as the Neo-Tech person never again have to feel helpless. You never again have to be on the defense. You never again have to depend on anyone or anything of the past. You can enter a new world and control your own future. You can become a Clark Kent -- a quiet superman. You can gain the real power -- the real advantages and profits that few ever knew existed. Q: Now I know why the Neo-Tech Discovery will immediately.... WALLACE: Also, consider another benefit from understanding Neo-Tech: the stopping of the pain and harm caused by certain everyday acquaintances straight up to the authoritarian bureaucrats who surround everyone in almost every area of life. Neo-Tech can abruptly stop the pain and harm caused by being beaten by destructive authorities, cheated or exploited by one's spouse, manipulated by parents, drained by bosses, gypped by merchants, intimidated by pushy or monied people, misled by professional people, stunted by dishonest and incompetent educators, used by friends, abused by strangers, fouled up by bureaucrats, fooled by mystics, and hurt by government. Neo-Tech puts an end to all those hurts and diminishments that have constantly kept you from becoming the person you've always dreamed of -- the person you were meant to be. And there are other side benefits. For example, when viewing network TV with the knowledge of Neo-Tech, a person becomes acutely aware of the steady stream of Neocheaters -- TV commentators, news editors, journalists, sociologists, faddists, mystical gurus, and religious proselytizers. Those fake authorities constantly gain destructive advantages from their followers in countless subtle ways. Neo-Tech concepts allow people to identify and nullify Neocheaters who drain everyone's life daily. With the concepts of Neo-Tech, a person nullifies those Neocheaters while transferring their power from them to himself. He no longer needs to bow to or idolize the man on the hill. With Neo-Tech, a person knows with fearless certainty that he, himself, is the most important person -- and everyone will sense that he is the most powerful person. Q: Can you restate what you're saying to bring me back to earth?


WALLACE: The Neo-Tech concepts are practical tools for integrated thinking. NeoTech really puts one on the right track. No longer do people have to suffer in silent frustration watching their lives and dreams be quietly drained away. Q: Yes. Who hasn't felt that distant, lonely sadness.... WALLACE: The Neo-Tech concepts are the most powerful thinking tools for profits. Those concepts are the cutting edge for prosperity...for making the grandest dreams come to reality. Neo-Tech can rekindle the sparks that flickered out long ago. Q: Is all that really true? I mean, does all that really apply to us -- to us who work for a living? WALLACE: You are the good, the innocent, the powerful, you are the Clark Kents. Over are the days of your being defrauded of wealth, pleasure, and happiness. Over are the days of being victimized by the politicians, bureaucrats, mystics, and pseudo intellectuals. In your innocence, you have unknowingly been drained by Neocheaters. Now, at last, you can break free and take what all productive human beings rightfully earn but seldom take...a guiltless life of power, pleasure, and wealth. But even more, you can now become a Neo-Tech person and command your own future. Q: That's pretty profound. I'll have to give that some deep thought. WALLACE: You should. For the more one thinks about Neo-Tech, the more one profits from it. Q: What if I want to profit more and more? What if I get a little greedy? What if I want to become the man on the hill now -- through Neo-Tech? WALLACE: Look again at the charts. Contrary to what some people might initially think, the highest profits of Neo-Tech come not from destroying advantages of others, although anyone can do that with Neocheating to gain tremendous power and profits. But the highest profits come from creating honest advantages for oneself by delivering maximum competitive values to others and society. Indeed, to any chosen extent, you can apply Neo-Tech to personally gain both immediate and long-range advantages in business, personal life, and social situations...the applications are endless. Back to your question about becoming a little greedy. As the first step, anyone can immediately profit by collecting the Neocheating advantages available in any competitive situation. Moreover, anyone can use Neocheating to outflank all competition -- control even the sharpest, most-alert people. Master Neocheaters use undetectable techniques to gain maximum advantage from every situation to acquire extreme power and wealth. And anyone can use Neocheating to gain easy advantages or profits to any chosen degree. But who needs that? The Neocheater,


yes, he can easily do all of that. But the Neo-Tech person...he needs none of that. For him, Neocheating is limiting and obsolete. Just acquiring the knowledge of Neo-Tech will show you how to reach you goals quickly, directly, easily. You will experience a mounting sense of power and excitement while learning about Neo-Tech. Indeed, through the Neo-Tech Discovery, you too can achieve great strength in your career or field of interest by becoming a quiet Neo-Tech person. In addition, you will forever be immune to Neocheaters...immune to most harmful situations. Q: How quickly will Neo-Tech spread? WALLACE: As people gain this knowledge, they will begin using its techniques because they are irresistibly logical and overwhelmingly practical. Thus, as people discover the unbeatable advantages of Neo-Tech, those advantages will spread throughout the world as the most potent discovery since the Industrial Revolution.


INTRODUCTION The following fifteen questions and answers about Neocheating provide the background for this book: 1. What is Neocheating? Neocheating is the ultimate evolution of cheating. Neocheating is not based on sleight-of-hand or magician's skills as are many classical and traditional cheating techniques. Neocheating is a new, scientific kind of cheating -- an invisible, incredibly easy kind of cheating based on simplicity and low skill. Once a person understands Neocheating, he can use its techniques to quietly beat opponents, anytime -- anywhere on earth. But also, he can use that knowledge to defend against and defeat all cheating, including Neocheating. 2. How did Neocheating evolve? Neocheating evolved from constant financial pressures and incentives to develop the easiest, safest, and most profitable methods of winning. Over the decades, the smartest profiteers have searched for shortcuts that require little skill, but contain the invisible effectiveness of the most advanced cardsharping techniques. Those shortcuts are identified in this book and then honed into practical-attack formats called Neocheating. 3. How is Neocheating so easy? Neocheating is insidiously easy because it has been distilled by short-cut seekers over the years to the simplest essentials upon which all effective cheating depends. If a person understands those essentials, he will understand all cheating, allowing him to defend against any cheating, including Neocheating. But at the same time, any player with larceny in his heart can now easily and safely beat any card game played for money. 4. How is Neocheating so safe? Neocheating is so subtle that no one can ever prove a person is Neocheating. Even if others were certain someone was Neocheating, no evidence would exist to accuse the Neocheater because his maneuvers are invisible. 5. How can Neocheating be so easy and safe, yet still be the most potent form of cheating? The simpler and subtler the cheating technique, the easier and safer and, therefore, the more effective it will be (as will become evident throughout the book). Indeed, the Neocheater's confident characteristics result from his exclusive use of simple, effective, and invisible techniques.


6. What are the characteristics of a Neocheater? Neocheaters generally display characteristics opposite to those of traditional cheaters as shown in the chart below. In fact, the closer people observe a Neocheater, the more assured they become that no cheating is occurring. And ironically, as shown in the final chapter of this book, the Neocheater is often the most trusted person in the game.


The Neocheater





"When should I do it" feeling -- cheats at every opportunity

Knows exactly when to Neocheat -Neocheats selectively

Keeps players from watching him closely with distractions and concealments

Lets players watch him "thoroughly shuffle" without distractions or concealments

Uses distractions constantly; they often interfere with the difficult and dangerous maneuvers of conventional cheating

Uses distractions rarely; they seldom interfere with the simple and safe maneuvers of Neocheating

Causes suspicion with his cheating moves - fears all opponents

Eliminates suspicion with Neocheating moves -- fears no one

Makes opponents unhappy

Makes opponents happy

Worries that his cheating will be seen

Knows that Neocheating cannot be seen

Worries about the consequences of being caught in the act

Knows he cannot be caught in the act

Why the difference in characteristics? Alert or knowledgeable opponents can usually detect traditional cheating -- unless the cheater has acquired great classical skill through years of laborious practice and experience. Even then, the cardsharp must execute each cheating maneuver perfectly, every time, putting him under great pressure. Moreover, the traditional cheater becomes obviously guilty once caught,


leaving him to face the consequences. That fear of being caught haunts most traditional cheaters and overwhelms countless potential cheaters. By contrast, Neocheating is invisible, routine, and requires little skill. The Neocheater's tactics are so subtle that, even if accused, his cheating cannot be proven. Indeed, he can always avoid the consequences because he can never be caught flagrante delicto or "in the act". The traditional cheater fears his telltale characteristics. But the Neocheater works in harmony with his deceptive characteristics, preventing people unknowledgeable about Neocheating from ever suspecting him. As a result, the Neocheater flourishes. 7. Where is Neocheating going? Simple and effective Neocheating is today spreading throughout poker games in Nevada casinos and California card clubs. Indeed, Neocheating is already infiltrating private games of poker, blackjack, bridge, and gin. And Neocheating will keep on spreading, leaving no game or player immune from attack. 8. What can stop Neocheating from spreading? Publicly revealing the techniques of Neocheating may initially cause a cheating spree that could create chaos at the card table. But ironically, that knowledge, as it becomes widely known, will begin to expose and nullify Neocheating. Players no longer need to be helpless or doomed when confronted with Neocheating. Instead, they will be able to counter and eliminate Neocheating. 9. If Neocheating is invisible, how can it be detected and stopped? Neocheating cannot be detected directly, and the Neocheater can never be accused or caught outright. But with the knowledge of Neocheating, a player can sense Neocheating -know when it is occurring. And then with special countermeasures (taught in this book), he can win in the presence of a Neocheater. . . or, if he chooses, easily cause the Neocheater to leave the game. 10. How can you prevent Neocheating from ruining your game? Simply use the counterattack techniques described in this book to beat or drive Neocheaters from your game. Or tell your opponents about this book. If an opponent knows that you have read this book, he will never dare cheat in your presence. Moreover, if your fellow players know about the information in this book, they too could detect any cheater. Indeed, your fellow players would thank you for awakening them to knowledge that will always protect them. Also, with other players in your game knowledgeable about Neocheating, you will never face a cheater alone.


Or give a cheater in your game this book and watch him stop cheating --watch him leave your game to cheat elsewhere. In fact, if every cardplayer in the world had the information in this book, no one would dare cheat. 11. Who is the Neocheater? He is a player who cannot lose. He can drain everyone's money at will. He may be in your game now. . . or next week. Or he may be you. The Neocheater will inevitably threaten every card game played for money. Moreover, he considers Neocheating no more wrong than bluffing or normal card deception. 12. How does the Neocheater differ from the cardsharp? The Neocheater is not a cardsharp. He is a new breed of player who may soon rule the card table. The cardsharp has existed since the invention of cards. He cheats without the knowledge of Neocheating. Still, he may unknowingly use various Neocheating techniques. But generally his cheating relies on skill and gall. The Neocheater, on the other hand, relies on neither skill nor gall. He relies on simple, invisible maneuvers. For him to use any other means of cheating (such as palming cards or using marked cards) would be unnecessary and foolish since Neocheating is not only safe, but so much easier and more effective. 13. What makes the Neocheater unbeatable? The maneuvers of Neocheating are so subtle and the mechanics so easy that they can be executed with relaxed confidence. Guaranteed winning hands such as four aces can be routinely obtained. And more than one powerful hand can be dealt at a time to ensure a big score (e.g., in poker: four aces to the Neocheater and four jacks to the victim). Yet, unlike the cardsharp, the Neocheater seldom stacks powerful hands or goes for big scores (although he easily can). Instead, he casually uses just enough of his power to give him constant, unbeatable advantages. In fact, he may never even Neocheat for himself, but instead simply use Neocheating to shift money from the strongest players to the weakest players and then win legitimately from those weak players. His steady, hidden attack lets him win consistently and comfortably in poker, blackjack, bridge, and gin -- week after week, year after year. This book shows not only how the Neocheater can easily create spectacular advantages for himself, but how he can create smarter, unsuspicious, casino-like advantages to safely extract maximum money from all games. With those invisible advantages, he keeps his opponents happy while comfortably controlling the game, even a network of games. ... Neocheating is that easy. 14. How does Neocheating apply to games such as blackjack, bridge, and gin?


The Neocheating techniques in this book apply to all card games. Most techniques, however, are presented with a poker slant because most card cheating has traditionally been centered around poker - the money game. Also Neocheating techniques are more easily illustrated through poker examples. But Neocheating will become increasingly common in all card games played for money or prestige. In bridge, cheating occurs frequently in private, home games. And cheating scandals are not uncommon in major tournaments. Dishonest bridge players, however, have traditionally relied on signaling since that was easier and generally more practical than manipulating cards. But Neocheating, because it is so safe and effective, will increasingly penetrate bridge, especially private games played for money. In fact, bridge today is especially vulnerable to Neocheating because its players generally look for and suspect only signal-type cheaters. (Signaling requires the collusion of two players. But Neocheating can be performed alone, without anyone else's knowledge.) Blackjack is particularly vulnerable to Neocheating. Undetectable maneuvers executed through Neocheating techniques offer unbeatable advantages to any dealer or partner. And Neocheating in gin routinely produces winning hands and a constant influx of money. While this book reveals techniques specific to poker, bridge, blackjack, and gin, Neocheating in general can be applied to those or any other card game played for money or prestige. Today, anyone could leave any card game a consistent loser, read this book, and return the following week never to lose again. 15. Is revealing Neocheating immoral? Can revealing the truth ever be immoral? Only by revealing Neocheating fully can honest players defend and protect themselves completely. *** Although this book gives step-by-step instructions for Neocheating, an honest player needs only to read through this book to gain the special knowledge needed fully to defend himself against all cheating, including Neocheating. But, if the honest player invests a little time in actually executing the various Neocheating maneuvers, he will gain an enjoyable sense of power while learning to subject any deck of cards to his will. So why not read this book while sitting at a cleared table with a deck of cards beside you? As you read each step, actually do it. The steps themselves are really much


simpler than their detailed descriptions. And unlike the more difficult traditional and classical cheating techniques, Neocheating maneuvers are fun and easy to learn. Hopefully most people who read this book will choose not to neocheat. Still, everyone will experience a mounting sense of control and power as they read "Neocheating". After all, how many people can invisibly deal themselves four aces after only an hour's practice? Moreover, each reader will gain the knowledge needed to protect himself in any card game (private, public, tournament, or casino), against any opponent (friend or stranger), and against any form of cheating (amateur or professional). But most importantly, this book will save the reader from being drained by Neocheaters, not only in cards but in all areas of life.




Chapter I THE NATURE OF CHEATING To gain full benefit from this book, the reader must understand the nature of cheating. This chapter explains the nature of amateur cheating, professional cheating, and Neocheating in poker and in all other card games played for money.

1. Defining Cheating. To properly define cheating, the nature of poker as opposed to other card games must first be understood. Poker is unique to other card games or situations in that honest poker explicitly permits any behavior or manipulation, no matter how deceptive, except cheating. In fact, the ethical basis of poker is lying and deception. Indeed, the only unethical behavior in poker is cheating. But where does deception end and cheating begin? Actually a sharp distinction exists. Poker cheating is the conjuring up of advantages unavailable to opponents. Poker deception, however, involves exploiting advantages that are available to all players. When cheating, a player initiates one or more of the abnormal, physical manipulations listed at the bottom of this page. But when deceiving, a player is simply taking advantage of situations already available to his opponents. For example, the normal use of cards produces smudges, nicks, scratches, and creases on their backs. Such natural markings that identify unexposed cards are equally available to all players willing to train their eyes and discipline their minds. The good player willingly exerts that effort to spot, remember, and then deceptively use those natural markings on cards to gain advantages over his opponents. Such actions do not constitute cheating in poker. On the other hand, deliberately soiling, marring, or marking cards for identification would constitute cheating in poker or in any other card game. Still many deceptive actions that are honest and proper in poker are considered in other games as cheating or dishonest (such as lying, deceit, and other violations of specific ethics or rules). Yet anything considered as cheating in poker would be considered as cheating in any other card game. Cheating in poker or in any card game can, therefore, be defined as initiating any one of the following abnormal manipulations of cards, signals, or money: · · · · ·

Cards are covertly switched to change the value of a hand. Cards are purposely flashed to see the value of undealt or unexposed cards. Cards are culled or stacked to change their natural sequence. Cards are purposely soiled, smudged, nicked, marred, or marked for future identification. Mechanical devices are used such as marked cards, strippers, mirrors, and hold-out equipment.


· ·

Secret betting agreements or partnerships are made so that colluding partners can signal each other the value of their hands . . . or when to fold, bet, or raise. Money is stolen from bets being made, from the pot, or from other players. Extra change is purposely taken from the pot. Lights are purposely not paid. (These last items are direct theft in contrast to the indirect theft of card and signal cheating.)

And definitions for the different styles of card cheating are-Classical: A smooth, mechanical style of cheating developed in the 19th century requiring high skill for stacking, palming, and manipulating cards. Cardsharping: A skilled style of card cheating executed through card manipulations. Invisible: Cheating moves that are not discernible or visible to the human eye -previously associated only with classical or highly skilled cheating. The essence of Neocheating. Gaffing: A dangerous-to-use, non-skill cheating style that utilizes marked cards, shiners, and other external or mechanical devices. Colluding: A non-skill cheating style involving two or more partners covertly signaling information or instructions to one another. Traditional: a) Skilled -- A cheating style occasionally used today. Requires extensive practice and experience. Invisible in its ultimate form. b) Unskill ed -- A common cheating style that relies on outside help such as marked cards, holdouts, shiners, and collusion. Sometimes involves crude or low-skill card manipulations, or even stealing. Neocheating: "The New Cheating" -- A low-skill, highly effective and invisible style of cheating that is easily and quickly learned. Neocheating is smart, safe, short-cut cheating that is spreading from public to private poker and will eventually dominate all cheating.

2. Accepting Cheaters. Most players fear cheaters. But the good player quietly accepts them if they are losers. In fact, he often welcomes their cheating because, as explained in the next paragraph, they generally lose more money while cheating, particularly in complex games involving split pots and twists. The good player can even convert expert cheaters into financial assets by nullifying their cheating or by beating them with the defenses and counteractions described in later chapters. Indeed, contrary to popular belief, most players actually increase their losses while cheating because they · · · ·

dilute their attention toward the game by worrying about and concentrating on their cheating. overestimate the benefits of cheating and thus play looser or poorer poker. overlook or miss vital information about their opponents and the poker action. make their hands and intentions much more readable. 24


use ineffective techniques that do not deliver net financial benefits.

A good player can take profitable advantage of the above weaknesses in cheaters as demonstrated by the anecdotes at the end of this chapter. So why do players cheat if their cheating increases their losses? Some cheat out of financial desperation, others cheat out of neurotic desires to swindle their opponents, but many cheat simply out of naiveness or stupidity. Neocheaters, however, cheat "smartly" with the sole motive to extract maximum money from their opponents. And Neocheaters do not lose; they must be rejected.

3. Rejecting Cheaters. If a cheater consistently wins money, he is a financial liability to both the good player and the game. Also under certain conditions, a cheater can financially harm the good player, even if the cheater is a loser. For example, other more profitable losers may become upset and quit the game if they detected someone cheating. Or cheating can cause a profitable game to break up. In such situations, a good player either stops the cheating or eliminates the cheater by using one or more of the nine methods listed in Table 1.


Form of Action


Indirectly, during game

Make the cheater feel that he is suspected and is being watched.

Cheating stops.

Privately, outside of game

Tell the cheater that if he cheats again, he will be publicly exposed.

Cheating stops.

Privately, outside of game

Tell suspicious players about the cheater. Point out that he is a loser and the best way to penalize him is to let him play.

Cheating continues, but the suspicious players are satisfied as the cheater continues to lose.

Privately, outside of game

Form a conspiracy with other players to collude collectively in order to bankrupt the cheater.

Cheater is driven from the game.


Use Neocheating defenses and

Cheater is driven from the


during game

counterattacks to bankrupt the cheater.


Publicly, during game

Expose the cheater during the game in front of everyone.

Cheater quits or is drummed out of the game.

Publicly, during game

Inform all players including the cheater about this book and Neocheating.

Cheating stops.

Privately, outside of game

Give the cheater a copy of this book.

Cheating stops or the cheater leaves for another game.

Privately, during game

White-hat Neocheating. (Described in Chapter X.)

Cheater is driven from the game.

4. Detecting Cheaters. Invisible Neocheating will eventually menace all players in public and private card games throughout the world. But much of today's cheating in private games is still done by amateurs using crude, visible techniques that are easily detectable and beatable by methods described in this book. Yet most players ignore even obvious cheating to avoid arousing unpleasant or perhaps violent emotions. When a player detects cheating, he often rationalizes it as a rule violation or a mistake rather than cheating. Any player, however, can detect all cheating quickly, without ever seeing a dishonest move, even highly skilled professional cheating and highly knowledgeable Neocheating. How can he do that? All cheating and cheaters are betrayed by violations of logic and probability. Cheating is an unnatural injection of distorted action that perceptively jolts the otherwise logically connected occurrences in poker. So if a player monitors and compares the actions of his opponents to the most logical actions according to the situation and odds, he will quickly detect the distorted playing and betting patterns that always arise from cheating. That awareness enables him to sense cheating without ever seeing a suspicious move as demonstrated by the anecdotes at the end of this chapter.

5. Professional and Amateur Cheating. One of the major differences between private poker and public (club and casino) poker is the collusion cheating routinely practiced by cliques of professional players in public poker. Few outsiders or victims ever suspect professional cheating in public poker because the techniques used are subtle and hard to observe visually. Most


public-game professionals execute their collusion so naturally and casually that the management of major casinos and card clubs remain unaware of their cheating, even when it routinely occurs in their own card rooms. Moreover, many public-game professionals practice collusion cheating without qualms. They consider their cheating as a legitimate trade tool that enables them to offset the draining effect of the house rake or collection. The chart on the next page lists the most important classical and traditional, professional and amateur cheating methods used in public and private card games.


Card Treatments

Other Devices

*blind shuffling *crimping *culling dealing seconds, bottoms, middles *false cutting *false riffling foiling the cut palming *peeking *pull through *stacking * Las Vegas riffle * overhand stack * riffle cull and stack * undercut stack

*daubing (Golden Glow, nicotine stains, soiling) corner flash denting and rounders luminous readers marking nailing (indexing) punching sanding slicked-aced deck stripping waving

*colluding partners *card flashing *crossfire betting *signals *spread *marked decks cold decks chip copping holdouts shiners stripper decks

* Professional cheating methods most commonly used today.

Table 2 on the next page summarizes the most important cheating techniques used in private games as well as in public clubs and casinos. Table 2 also summarizes both the crude cheating techniques used by amateurs and the skilled techniques used by professionals. Not all professional cardplayers are cheaters. And not all high-stake games have cheaters or professionals present. But any high-stake game, public or private, is vulnerable for exploitation and will tend to attract professionals and cheaters. Yet a player must vigilantly avoid considering anyone a cheater without objective indications of cheating. A player must resist the temptation of blaming tough or painful losses on being cheated (rather than on coincidence or his own errors). Assuming cheating exists when there is none can lead to costly errors. For example, misreading or rationalizing an opponent as a cheater and then implementing the distorted playing techniques used to nullify or counterattack cheaters (e.g., quick


folds, extra-aggressive betting, and other techniques explained in later chapters) will result in costly errors.



Manipulation Techniques (more common in private poker) Classical and amateur manipulations (solo)

Least effective, most detectable. Effectively used only by the rare, classic cardsharp who is highly skilled, dexterous, and experienced. Shunned by today's professional establishment. Crudely used by amateurs in private games.

Classical deck stacking, holdingout cards, palming, second and bottom dealing, shaved decks, shiners, marked cards, and various mechanical devices used to cheat opponents.

Full flashing of draw cards and hole cards (dealer to partner)

More effective for stud and hold-'em games.

With smooth, imperceptible motions, the dealer lifts or tilts cards just enough for his partner to see. Done only when others are not looking or are unaware.

Modern and professional manipulations (solo)

Most effective, easiest to learn, usually undetectable. Used by professional players in both private and public poker. Neocheating.

New concepts of culling cards, stacking, blind shuffling, false riffling, false cutting, and foiling cuts as described in this book.

Collusion Techniques (more common in club and casino poker) Partial flashing of draw cards and hole cards (dealer to partner)

Most effective for highstake, lowball draw.

Player sits low enough to see shades of darkness blur intensities, or the actual values of cards being dealt facedown.*

Collusion betting (partner to partner)

Most common in highstake lowball, stud, and hold 'em.

Requires system of signals between colluding partners that indicates "strength of hands" or "when to bet, raise, or fold".

Combined Techniques (more common in casino poker) Collusion and manipulation (house dealer to partner)

Most effective and common in casinos with house dealers who manipulate cards and work in collusion with professional Players.

The dealer manipulates memorized cards to top of deck. Then knowing everyone's hole cards, he signals his partner when to bet or fold.


* Observing flashed cards without the dealer's help or collusion is not cheating. For example, good players train themselves to evaluate the shades of darkness or blur intensities of partially flashed cards (e.g., darker shades or more intense blurs indicate higher value cards - valuable information, especially for lowball). If a player sees flashed cards without dealer collusion, he is not cheating since the same advantage is available to all players who choose to be equally alert. Al ert players also watch for flashed cards as the dealer riffles, shuffles, and cuts.

6. Why Poker Players are Prone to Cheating. The nature of poker -- as generally understood and accepted by every player -allows unlimited deception to win maximum money from ownerless pots. Therefore, anyone can freely use deception in any poker game and remain honest. But no one can use deception outside of poker and remain honest. Likewise, if a person "plays poker" outside of the game, he becomes a dishonest person. But in poker, a person can be dishonest only by usurping money through cheating. Many poker players, including most professionals, do not clearly distinguish between what is honest and what is dishonest in and out of poker. For example, many professional players who day after day, year after year, lie and practice deceit in poker ironically do not grasp the rightness of their poker deception. In fact, many professionals and regular players never grasp the sharp difference between poker deception and cheating. Their ethics, therefore, become hazy and ill-defined. The major barrier in crossing the line from deception to cheating is the fear and threat of being caught. By removing that threat (i.e., by using undetectable Neocheating), many easily slip across that line and begin cheating with fearless ease. Failure to fully distinguish between poker deception and poker cheating is one reason why certain players react so strongly (often violently, sometimes murderously) against a cheater. Without strong anticheating reactions, they believe opponents would step across that line and begin cheating them. Sensing their own capacity to cheat (checked only by the fear of being caught), they assume the same capacity lurks in everyone. Thus, even if they never cheat others, they fear others will cheat them. So, ironically, those who would react most violently against cheaters are often those who would most readily cheat others if not for their fear of being caught and evoking similarly violent reactions from others.

7. Beating All Cheaters. Most amateur poker players hold the classical but misleading view about cheating. They perceive cheating as being done either by bumbling amateurs who are easily caught or by highly dexterous and invincible cardsharps who have perfected sleightof-hand skills through years of laborious practice and experience. In holding that misleading classical view, most poker players remain oblivious to the cheating and collusion practiced by professional cheaters, especially those in public casino games. In fact, most players remain oblivious even to the crude and routine cheating of private-game amateurs. So without the information in this book, players today have no chance of detecting the Neocheater.


The alert player familiar both with the traditional cheating techniques and with Neocheating can detect any cheating. He can even detect the most skilled and invisible cheating without ever seeing a dishonest move as demonstrated in the anecdotes at the end of this chapter. Furthermore, the alert player familiar with Neocheating can usually tell who is cheating, what technique is being used, and exactly when the cheating is occurring. He garners that information by detecting patterns and combinations of illogical betting, raising, and playing styles of particular opponents. But normally to detect invisible cheating, a player must be involved in at least one hand and perhaps several hands in which cheating occurs in order to sense the illogical playing and betting patterns. For that reason, every player must be cautious about high-stake or no-limit games in which he could be wiped out in a big, one-shot cheating setup before detecting any cheating. Indeed, the wise player views with suspicion and is prepared to throw away without a bet any super-powerful hand (e.g., four of a kind, a straight flush) dealt to him in high-stake games with strangers. Also, as the stakes for card games increase, the motivation for cheating increases. Every cardplayer should increasingly expect and look for cheating as he progresses to higher-stake games. In any case, when poker players cheat, the quality of their play declines as their time, energy, and thought shifts from analyzing poker actions to executing cheating actions. Also their objectivity, concentration, and discipline diminish as they rely more and more on cheating to win. Their betting becomes distorted and often overly loose. And most importantly, their hands become more readable and their actions become more predictable whenever they cheat. For those reasons, a good player usually has little trouble beating cheaters, especially after detecting their cheating.

8. Protection from Public-Casino Cheating. The examples on the next eight pages for detecting and countering public-casino cheating provide insights into the nature of all cheating. While occurring two years before Neocheating was identified and isolated, some of the anecdotes illustrate the seeds of Neocheating being sown in public poker. And because of the cosmopolitan and dynamic nature of public poker, it is often an indicator of what will eventually occur in private poker. Indeed, Neocheating is today not only spreading throughout public poker, but is already infiltrating private, home games.

SIX KINDS OF PUBLIC-CASINO CHEATING Although John Finn [ 1 ] played almost exclusively in private poker games because of their greater profitability, he did spend the summer of 1976 playing public poker in the Gardena, California, card clubs and in the Las Vegas, Nevada, casinos. In both the clubs and casinos, he discovered professional cheaters operating in the higherstake games. John's public-game experiences uncovered six common cheating methods used in public poker. He also learned how to protect himself from 30

professional cheaters in public poker. More importantly, he learned to identify and thus avoid those cheating situations that he could not beat -- the beginnings of Neocheating that would soon invade private poker.

A. Collusion Cheating -- Reciprocal Card Flashing During his first two days in Gardena, John Finn played in each of its six poker clubs. After the second day, he became aware of a cliquish network of habitual amateur players, professional players, floormen, and cardroom managers woven through those six clubs. The continuous circulation of poker players among the clubs allowed everyone in that network to constantly and effectively communicate (and gossip) among themselves. While most of the habitual amateur players in Gardena recognized they were a part of a clique, few recognized that the professional establishment was using them as fodder. In the lower-stake games, John Finn found mainly amateurs; the few professionals were usually shills. In those games, he detected no cheating. On the fourth day, he graduated to a $20 blind, lowball draw game. In that game, he discovered from their poker styles and conversations that players in seats 2 and 5 were professionals involved in collusion cheating. Even before identifying them as full-time professionals, he knew they were colluding. Their methods were simple, effective, and unnoticeable. Both players sat low in their seats . . . each slumping a little lower when the other dealt. On dealing draw cards with smooth quicker-than-the-eye motions, the dealer would expose key cards as fleeting blurs perceptible only to his partner. The partner would return the favor on his deal. The cheaters accomplished their card flashing without suspicion despite the great pressure on dealers in the Gardena card clubs not to flash cards. Only once did John observe a collusion cheater being scolded for his "careless" dealing. Ironically, John observed on numerous occasions noncheating dealers being scolded for flashing cards. By knowing when his own lowball draw card had been flashed, John Finn could outmaneuver the cheating partners by more accurately predicting what they would do as the result of their knowing his draw card. The cheaters, therefore, were constantly misled by John's counteractions -- they repeatedly misjudged what he would do. John Finn exploited and beat both collusion partners by using the cheating counteractions taken from his notes about lowball cheating: 1. Save money by folding sooner against a cheater's more readable winning hand. 2. Lure the cheater into making an expensive bluff when he draws a picture card or a pair in lowball and knows you have drawn a high card such as a ten or a jack. The cheater's overconfidence often encourages him to bluff. 3. Set up the cheater for an easy bluff. For example, a strong lowball bluff position develops when the cheater knows you have drawn a good low card (e.g., a six or lower), but does not know you paired the low card. 4. When you do draw a powerful low hand, the overconfident cheater can sometimes be misled into believing you did pair, causing him to bet into your 31

winning hand, to call your final bet, or to try a bold bluff, especially if the pot is large and if other bluffable players (whose draw cards the cheater also knows) are still in the pot. 5. When the readable cheater bluffs, use his aggressive betting to drive out other players who have you beat. When the other players are driven out, simply call the cheater's bluff. Or when necessary, bluff out the bluffing cheater with a final raise. Throughout the night, John Finn used those five approaches to exploit and beat both collusion cheaters in lowball. And on occasion, when positioned properly, John saw cards flash between the partners to further improve his advantage. When the game ended at seven in the morning, the two professional players were big losers. They left the table cursing their "bad luck", never realizing that they had been victimized by their own cheating.

B. Collusion Cheating with House Dealer -- Natural-Play Technique John Finn first encountered professional casino cheating in a large poker room of a major hotel-casino in downtown Las Vegas. The cheating involved the dealer, the cardroom manager, and his friend. The collusion setup was unusual because management was involved. [ 2 ] Initially off guard, John Finn was not suspicious of or looking for cheating patterns because (a) the game was at fairly low stakes -- $5-10 seven-card stud (although that was the highest-stake game in the cardroom at the time), and (b) the cardroom manager was not only playing, but was sitting next to the dealer. ... The game seemed safe from cheating. Moving clockwise from the dealer's left sat (1) the cardroom manager, (2) a professional poker player, who was also a friend of the manager, (3) a poor-playing tourist, (4) a regular player, (5) [an empty seat], (6) an ex-poker dealer, (7) John Finn, and (8) a woman who was an off-duty blackjack dealer. Within an hour, newcomer John Finn was the biggest winner. He was playing aggressively, winning heavily, and soundly beating the other players -especially the woman player in seat 8, who was playing poorly. The manager and several other players seemed annoyed and confused over John Finn's unorthodox and unpredictable play. After a shift change of dealers, the woman player switched to empty seat 5. Two hands later, another tourist sat in empty seat 8. He found a loose card beside John's elbow. The card apparently had slid under a napkin left by the woman player, and the dealer never noticed the missing card. (Some dealers can feel when one card is missing by the bulk and weight of the deck.) Several players glanced sharply at John as if they had discovered how he was beating them. The manager left the table and returned moments later.


Before the next hand, a floorman brought two fresh decks of cards to the dealer. John Finn became puzzled on noticing the cards were in a brown box bearing an orangeshield label from the Normandie Club in Gardena, California. Two hands later, John maneuvered into a strong position and was betting heavily. The manager beat him in a series of illogical but infallible calls and bets that did not coincide with the manager's poker style or ability. Staring straight at John Finn, he pushed the large pot to the woman player -- the heavily-losing, off-duty blackjack dealer in seat 5. She took the money without appearing grateful or surprised by the manager's "generous" action. Several hands later, John Finn again maneuvered into a strong and favorable position; he bet heavily, but once more was beaten in a similar series of illogical calls and raises by the manager's friend -- the professional player. John became alert and suspicious. At first he thought his hole cards were being flashed, especially since the professional player sat low in his seat. Trying to counter that possibility, John was unsuccessful as he lost two more large pots to the manager, who again won through a series of illogical but infallible moves. John then noticed a slight crimp in his cards - such as might occur if a dealer had crimped for a blind shuffle and then failed to bend out the crimp. In addition, the dealer gripped the cards in a way to facilitate false cutting. Yet John detected no evidence of card culling, discard sorting, or deck stacking. After certain hands, however, the dealer would periodically glance at facedown discards as he gathered cards for the next deal. Still he made no attempt to rearrange any cards. John Finn lost another large hand to the manager's friend. While assuming that collusion cheating was occurring, John did not know how or when it was occurring. His counteractions not only failed, but they increased his losses. He had lost his winnings and was losing over two-hundred dollars before realizing how the cheating was occurring. The method was simple, essentially undetectable, yet devastatingly effective. After each hand, the dealer simply gathered the face-up stud cards in a natural way, making no attempt to cull, sort, or stack them . . . he merely remembered the value and order of the exposed cards. If too few cards had been exposed, he would simply glance at some face-down cards. By remembering fourteen cards [ 3 ] and by positioning them in an unchanged order on top of the deck through blind shuffles, false riffles, and false cuts, the dealer would know everyone's hole cards -- thus, he would know everyone's exact hand right up to the seventh and final card. From that omniscient position, the dealer would then make all of the playing and betting decisions for his partner (or partners) by signaling when to fold, call, bet, or raise. The playing partner would never need to know anyone's hand, including his own; he would only need to follow the signals of the all-knowing dealer. On losing his third large pot to the low-sitting professional, John Finn realized that he did not immediately know how to beat that kind of collusion cheating. Therefore, his only choice was to quit the game. So he picked up his chips and left.

C. Collusion Cheating with House Dealer -- Culling and Stacking 33

On the following afternoon, John Finn entered a newly remodeled downtown casino that had introduced poker only a few weeks before. The card area was small and offered only $1-3 stud games. Wanting to examine low-stake casino poker, John Finn sat in the open seat on the dealer's left. Again, he did not expect cheating in a lowstake game. He soon realized that the other four players were locals -- they all knew one another and the dealer. But none of the players appeared to be professionals or good players. The players and the dealer chatted amicably among themselves. John Finn played the role of an inexperienced tourist by asking naive questions about the rules. But he knew that low-stake, local amateurs usually played very tight in trying to survive at casino poker. Yet this game seemed rather loose. On the third hand, all four players stayed until the final card. Sixteen face-up cards were exposed, including a pair of aces and a pair of queens. Another ace and another queen were also among the face-up cards. John Finn watched with narrowing eyes as the dealer picked up the cards -- he picked up an ace and a queen and then three other cards. His hand darted back to pick up the second ace and queen and then three more random cards before grabbing the final ace and queen. He then gathered the rest of the cards. After carefully squaring the deck, the dealer made several false riffles and a false cut before dealing. John knew what was going to happen. He did not even look at his two hole cards. His first up card was a queen. The first up card of the player on his left was an ace. The player with the ace looked twice at his hole cards and then bet a dollar. Everyone folded to John. He paused and looked at each player and then at the dealer. Everyone was watching him and waiting. The dealer stopped smiling when John placed the edge of his right hand firmly over the lower half of his hole cards and tore them in half. Turning over the two torn queens, he placed them faceup alongside his third queen. John then quickly flipped over his opponent's hole cards, which were aces, and placed them alongside his opponent's third ace. Everyone remained silent. "Redeal." John ordered. The dealer glanced toward the mirrors in the ceiling over the blackjack tables and then quickly collected the cards -- including the torn ones. He redealt from a new deck. Over the next dozen hands, John Finn aggressively manipulated his now tense and confused opponents. In twenty minutes, he ripped fifty dollars from that low-stake game and left. As he walked down the aisle of blackjack tables, he glanced back toward the poker area. The dealer and the players he left behind were still staring at him. That was a mistake, John Finn thought to himself. I revealed too much about myself for only fifty dollars.

D. Collusion Cheating through Partner Crossfire Betting That evening John Finn entered a major casino on the Strip. The casino had a large poker area. The action was heavy. In addition to many low-stake and intermediatestake games, several high-stake stud games ($30-60 games of high stud, low stud, and high-low stud) were in progress. John began in a $5-10 game, moved up to a $1034

20 game and then graduated to a $15-30 stud game before encountering professional cheating. The cheating was simple collusion between two professionals who signaled the strengths of their hands to each other. The cheater with the strongest hand or position would indicate to his partner when to check, bet, or raise. Their collusion entrapped or drove out players while increasing or decreasing the betting pace -whatever was most advantageous to the cheaters at the moment. The collusion partners increased their advantages by either sucking in or driving out players to improve their betting positions. They entrapped players and then generated bets and raises to build larger pots whenever either cheater held a strong hand. They lived by constantly bilking tourists and transient players . . . at least until John Finn entered their game. He promptly detected collusion cheating by the illogical patterns of checks, bets, and raises between the partners. Since the dealer was not involved with card manipulations or flashing, John easily turned the collusion to his own advantage at the expense of the cheaters. He beat the cheaters because their collusion actions markedly improved his accuracy in reading their hands and intentions. When either partner held a strong hand, John read their strength more quickly and folded sooner -- thus saving considerable money. Moreover, when the cheating partners revealed a strong hand and John held a stronger hand, he quietly let them suck him and other players into the pot. He let them build the pot for him with extra bets and raises. On the final bet, John would end his passiveness with a maximum raise. Also, the colluding partners doubled their losses to John whenever they bet as a team into pots that John won. If they had not colluded, normally only the player holding the strongest hand (rather than both players) would have been betting into John's winning hand. To further increase his advantage, John Finn manipulated the readable hands and intentions of the colluding cheaters against the other unsuspecting players. But John reaped his most profitable advantages from the cheaters when they bluffed. (Most collusion cheaters are overconfident and can often be lured into bluffing.) John would keep calling with mediocre or even poor hands as the bluffing partners kept betting aggressively to drive out players who held superior hands. John would then simply call the final bluff bet to win the pot. Or when necessary, he himself would bluff by raising after the final bet to drive out the bluffer and any remaining players to win the pot with a busted or a poor hand. In three hours, John Finn converted the two professional cheaters from substantial winners into the biggest losers at the table and drove them from the game. With a $600 profit, he left that table to explore other games. Eventually he sat down at a table where four professional players were operating as two separate teams of colluding partners, each team cheating the other team as well as the other three players. John assumed the role of a slightly drunk, wild-playing 35

tourist -- an ideal fish. He not only took advantage of the more easily readable hands of all four cheaters, but promptly played the two teams of collusion cheaters against one another and against the other three players. In an hour, John ripped $900 from the game and then abruptly left the table. As he walked away, some of the players mumbled things about his "unbelievable hot streak" and his "dumb luck." John walked over to the highest-stake game in the house -- a fast-paced, $30-60 lowball, seven-stud game (razz). As he studied the action, he wondered about the unusual house rule that allowed five raises instead of the standard three. The five raises greatly increased the flexibility and advantage of collusion cheaters over their victims. John also wondered about the much higher proportion of professional players and collusion cheaters he observed in this casino. Was the management aware of their collusion cheating? he wondered. Did the management establish the five-raise rule to accommodate the cheaters? Or were the professional collusion cheaters drawn to this casino because of a five-raise rule innocently established by management to increase the betting action? . . . John assumed the latter to be true. Standing behind the dealer, John Finn continued to watch the high-stake game. For nearly an hour, he studied the two biggest winners. From their conversation and style, he knew they were professionals. Yet neither seemed to be cheating or colluding. Still he noticed that in spite of the large pots, the dealer was not being toked (tipped) when either professional won a pot. John Finn studied the dealer more closely: Gathering the face-up cards in a routine left-to-right order, the dealer made no attempt to rearrange the cards. But as players folded, the dealer would make a pile with their face-down discards and toss their face-up cards on top of that discard pile. He would also toss the later-round face-up cards on top of the discard pile while slipping dead hole or face-down cards beneath the pile. If the hand ended with fewer than fourteen up cards being exposed (when seven players were seated), the dealer would casually glance at several face-down discards and toss them on top of the discard pile. Although John could not actually see any blind shuffles, false riffles, or false cuts (or verify any illogical cheating patterns [ 4 ]), he speculated that the dealer was memorizing everyone's hole card and then signaling the best moves to one or both of the professional players . . . in a similar way that the dealer was colluding with the cardroom manager and his friend two days earlier in the downtown casino. And, as in the downtown casino, John Finn concluded that he could not beat that kind of dealer-collusion cheating with his current knowledge and experience. He, therefore, left the casino without playing in the $30-60 game.

E. Amateurish Collusion Cheating with Sanction of House Dealer Traveling south on the Strip, John Finn entered another major casino also with a large cardroom. He observed the various poker games for thirty minutes. After considering the higher-stake games, he sat in a medium-stake ($10-20) seven-stud game because more of its players looked like losers. All were out-of-town gamblers and tourists, except for two women players sitting together across from John. 36

Although their conversation revealed they were experienced local players, both women played poorly. Nevertheless, they were winning moderately because of their collusion cheating, which was crude and obvious. While playing, they would blatantly show their hole cards to each other and then coordinate their betting to produce a collective advantage. The other players either did not notice their collusion or were too indifferent or timid to object. But by quietly taking advantage of their much more readable hands and poorer poker resulting from their cheating, John converted the two women from winners to losers. John then lost a fairly large pot to the women cheaters. During the hand, they had flashed their hole cards to each other. Then in a crudely visible manner, they actually swapped their final hole cards during the last round of betting, allowing one woman to win with a full house. After she turned her hole cards faceup, John Finn stuck his arm over the pot when the dealer started pushing it toward the woman. John then silently removed all the chips he had put into the pot. "Any objections?" he asked looking at the two women and then the dealer. No one objected. John picked up his chips and left for a higher-stake game.

F. Unbeatable Collusion Cheating through Dealer-Player Partnerships Moving farther south on the Strip, John Finn entered a casino that normally offered the highest-stake poker games in Las Vegas. For twenty minutes, he watched six players in a $100-200, seven-card stud game. Two professional players were squeezing money from four out-of-town gamblers who were losing heavily. While the two professionals did not seem to be in direct collusion with each other, when winning a pot neither player toked (tipped) the dealer. And while the dealer never glanced at face-down cards when gathering cards for the next deal, he did riffle and shuffle the cards several extra times whenever the previous hand produced fewer than twelve face-up cards. Not seeing any other suspicious moves, John speculated that when the dealer riffled the cards he was also memorizing the hole cards of every player. John knew he could not beat collusion cheating involving a house dealer who knew everyone's hole cards. So he left without playing. After three days in Las Vegas, John Finn realized that professional collusion cheating was well ensconced in higher-stake casino poker. He also knew that the alert, good player could subvert and beat most forms of professional cheating in public poker, especially collusion cheating. And most important, he identified those dealer-partner collusion situations that he could not beat. *** For the first time, good players must worry about getting wiped out by cheaters. In theory, even collusion cheating involving an all-knowing house dealer can be beaten by the good player who uses superior strategy and better money management. Yet to beat such cheaters, the good player needs to know what the cheaters know . . . he needs to know the concealed or hole cards of every opponent through near-perfect card reading. But few if any players can achieve such perfection. Therefore, most 37

players, no matter how skillful, will lose money in games dominated by wellexecuted, dealer-partner Neocheating such as described in the previous anecdotes. That unbeatable Neocheating, however, is rare or nonexistent in private poker and occurs mainly in higher-stake casino poker that uses house dealers to shuffle, cut, and deal every hand (i.e., no one except the dealer ever cuts or touches the cards before the deal).

Footnotes: [ 1 ] John Finn, a retired professional poker player, was the original AdvancedConcept player. His poker experiences are described in Frank R. Wallace's book, " Poker, A Guaranteed Income for Life by Using the Advanced Concepts of Poker", Crown (hardbound), Warner Books, New York, 1980 (revised and expanded edition). [ 2 ] Since cheating harms the long-range business interests of all public card clubs and casinos, the management of major clubs and casinos always strongly opposes any form of cheating. [ 3 ] With practice, most players can learn to rapidly memorize fourteen or more cards (even the entire deck) by association, mnemonic, and grouping techniques. [Reference: "Perfecting Your Card Memory" by Charles Edwards, Gambler's Book Club, 1974 ($2.00).] [ 4 ] The alert player detects and verifies illogical cheating patterns by evaluating the actions of cheaters relative to his own playing and betting actions. Without actually playing in the game, an outside observer, even an alertly suspicious and knowledgeable observer, cannot easily see or verify the illogical patterns of a competent cheater . . . at least not quickly. (That is one reason why casino management is seldom aware of professional cheating in poker; few people can detect competent poker cheating without actually playing against the cheaters in order to notice and evaluate illogical cheating patterns.)


Chapter II THE FIRST MOVE -- CUTTING ACES When you finish reading the next nine chapters, you will have a complete working knowledge of not only Neocheating but of every other important technique used by professional and amateur cheaters. And more importantly, after a few hours of practice, you will be executing undetectable Neocheating . . . you will be controlling the cards in ways that would confound and beat your opponents -- even if they are experienced and alert cardplayers. And most importantly, you will have the knowledge needed to identify and protect yourself from all cheating, including Neocheating. *** If your fingers possess ordinary dexterity -- that is if you can shuffle cards without dropping them all over the table or without brutally bending them out of shape -then by the time you finish reading this chapter, you will be able to : a) pick up any deck of cards, shuffle it thoroughly, b) cut the deck, place it on the table, and then c) cut an ace for high card -- even after another person cuts first. By the end of the fourth chapter, you will be able to thoroughly shuffle any deck of cards, place them on a table, turn your head away, shut your eyes, and flawlessly read the cards by "feeling their backs" with your fingertips. Impossible? Before you finish the next chapter, you will be able to stack four of a kind or a straight flush for yourself in a six-handed poker game -- taking fifteen seconds or less. . . . Almost nothing is impossible with Neocheating as you will soon discover. Now, a popular maxim states: "You can't cheat an honest man." But this book demonstrates how false that maxim is. Actually, that maxim serves as a convenient cover for cheaters who constantly fleece unsuspecting, honest men. And with this book --with Neocheating -- a person not only can cheat honest men, but can fleece them so smoothly and thoroughly that they will leave the card table broke and in a daze . . . and not the slightest bit wiser. Why are most honest players so vulnerable? They are vulnerable because they are honest -- they are not cheaters and do not know what is really involved in cheating. In fact, many believe they can spot cheaters. And most believe it takes years of intensive practice to become an effective, professional card cheater. But today, with Neocheating, both of those beliefs have become flatly untrue. In fact, modern, professional cheaters neither possess nor need much skill or dexterity. [ 5 ] Today,


the most effective professional cheaters operate on a basis of minimum skill but maximum knowledge (presented in this book); they operate on a system of Neocheating. ... And when considering professional expertise, think of the following irony: You can go to college for four years, spend thousands of hours in intensive study, and invest thousands of dollars to get a degree. Yet even that is no guarantee of profit and hardly makes you an expert or a professional in your chosen field. But ironically, with this book, you can become a professional Neocheater in less than fifty hours while spending no more than a few dollars for fresh decks of cards. You can, in fact, gain enough knowledge and skill by studying this book a day or two to pass for a professional cardsharp among your peers. After a few hours, you will be effortlessly cutting aces and stacking four of a kind. And after a dozen hours with this book, the only thing that will separate you from a professional cardsharp is that he makes his living by cheating whereas you could make a living by cheating. Throughout history, cheaters have made fortunes by fleecing honest men. Honesty does not imply knowledge. Indeed, this book provides the knowledge that can quickly convert any ordinary cardplayer into an effective, professional Neocheater. But more importantly, this book will provide the knowledge to protect you from cheaters. When you know how modern professional cheating (Neocheating) is done, when you understand its seeming mysteries, you can then approach the subject of cheating with knowledge and confidence instead of gullibility and awe. What may have seemed fantastically impressive and skillful before you picked up this book will become routine and easy if you simply follow the text and illustrations. *** Now you are ready to learn Neocheating in the comfort of your own home and without anyone's knowledge. The Neocheating method of cutting aces is easy and far less complicated than its detailed description. See for yourself how quickly and easily you can learn Neocheating. And experience both the fun and the power of Neocheating. After all, how many people can cut aces at will or invisibly stack four of a kind in seconds? But first you must know four important terms that are used throughout the book: 1. Culling: locating desired cards while shuffling, riffling, or gathering discards and then maneuvering those cards to the top or bottom of the deck. 2. Stacking: arranging the sequence of cards, usually while shuffling, riffling, or gathering discards. 3. Crimping: bending cards to produce a slight gap in the deck that can be felt when cutting. 4. Blind Shuffli ng: shuffling the cards -- seemingly all the cards -- while keeping the stacked portion of the deck intact.


Proceeding now to the first Neocheating technique -- cutting aces: this chapter shows how to cut aces (or any desired card) at will. That knowledge will be the building block for the devastating cheating techniques described in later chapters.

1. Step One -- Locating an Ace in Seconds. With a deck of cards, sit at a table with a cleared surface. Cardboard cards are preferred when learning the Neocheating techniques. If you use a brand-new cardboard deck, the cards may be too slippery to manipulate properly; so shuffle them several times to reduce the slickness. Plastic-coated cards are more durable, but do not respond to manipulation as well once they begin to wear. And plastic (not plastic-coated) cards are extremely resilient and durable, but require much more pressure to crimp. (Crimping will be explained shortly.) Actually any deck will do, provided it is not heavily worn. Your hands are your tools. If they are too dry, rub some hand lotion into your palms and fingers to sensitize your touch. If your hands feel too moist (which is preferable to dryness), use a little talcum powder. Incidentally, if you smell hand lotion during a high-stake card game -- beware. Now pick up the deck of cards and give it an ordinary riffle shuffle. The difference between a riffle shuffle and an overhand shuffle is described below: To overhand shuffle, hold the deck in the left hand, thumb on top, fingers underneath, hand tilted slightly. (If you are lefthanded, follow the same instructions throughout the book, but use the opposite hand.) With your right hand, remove the lower half of the deck. Then raise your left thumb and toss the cards, a few at a time, from your right hand onto those in your left hand. To riffle shuffle, hold the deck in the right hand while at the same time resting the deck on your left hand. Now riffle the cards with your right thumb, but stop about halfway and part the deck as shown in Figure 1A. Pass the lower portion of the deck to your left hand, which then grips that lower portion between the thumb and fingers at opposite ends. Knuckle the forefingers down on the tops of the separated deck halves to hold them firmly in place. Next, using both thumbs, interlace the cards with a riffling action as shown in Figure 2A. Then push the cards together and square them into a full deck.


Figure 1 A. Riffle Shuffle: Parting the Deck B. Spotting the Ace While Riffling

Figure 2 A. Riffle Shuffle: Interlacing B. Letting the Ace Fall on Top of the Deck Riffles and shuffles are simple. Yet they are key maneuvers for the Neocheater. He uses those two elementary maneuvers to accomplish most of his "miracles". The riffle, for example, is used to locate and control an ace (or any other desired card): As shown in Figure 1A, hold the deck with your right thumb and fingers, forefinger knuckled down on top, thumb and midfingers at opposite ends of the deck. Tilt the deck slightly upward from the table, keeping the ends of the deck squared. Before you start the riffling motion, place your index and middle finger of the left hand beneath the bottom card with the left thumb centered beneath the end of the deck. That steadies the deck as the cards are parted with the right thumb. The left thumb catches the parted cards as they fall and facilitates their transfer to the left hand. Now to locate the ace, begin riffling the deck with your right thumb. Observe the faces of the rapidly passing cards. (The Neocheater does not stare, but glances casually at them.) Now repeat the process, but riffle more slowly. Stop immediately when you see an ace as shown in Figure 1B. (Figure 1B deliberately exposes the ace to show its position. The Neocheater, of course, does not expose the ace to others.) At first, you will probably pass the ace by two or three cards. So try again. Riffle the cards with a casual rhythm -- not too fast, not too slow. Stop the moment you spot an 42

ace. Do this for five minutes. You may feel clumsy at first, but speed and smoothness come rapidly. Soon only the ace will slip by, leaving it the top card on the lower portion of the deck. And that is where you want the ace. [ 6 ] Now part the deck, passing the portion with the ace on top to your left hand. Then riffle shuffle all the cards together with both hands. But either riffle the left-handed portion of the deck more slowly or retain the ace with your left thumb until the deck is riffled together, dropping the ace last as shown in Figure 2B. Remember, as you actually try these moves and steps, you will find they are much simpler than they appear in their detailed descriptions.

2. Step Two -- Getting the Ace to the Bottom in One Overhand Shuffle. As explained above, riffle the deck to an ace, let it fall on top of the lower section of the deck, part the deck, and then riffle shuffle so that the ace lands on top of the deck. The entire procedure takes only a few seconds. Continue practicing that move until you can do it smoothly. If you miss stopping at an ace and your thumb has already parted two-thirds of the deck, complete a normal riffle shuffle. Repeat the riffle until you have located an ace. Extra riffle shuffles produce the illusion that the deck is being thoroughly shuffled. (Be cautious of thorough shufflers in a card game.) Using this method to cull an ace or any other card, the Neocheater appears to be riffle shuffling the deck and nothing more. With just ten minutes of practice, anyone can invisibly cull an ace that way. To proceed, you now have an ace on top of the deck after riffle shuffling. But you want the ace on the bottom for the next move. So place the deck in your left hand for one overhand shuffle. Keep your left thumb firmly on the top card as you lift the entire deck with your right hand. The ace will remain in your left hand. Smoothly and without hurry, overhand shuffle the other cards on top of the ace. That maneuver happens instantaneously and looks perfectly normal.

3. Step Three -- Positioning the Ace by Crimping. The ace is now on the bottom after one overhand shuffle. Naturally, Neocheaters do not flash the ace or peek to make certain it is there. Next, you are going to cut the deck without disturbing that bottom ace. As you finish your overhand shuffle, place the deck face down in the palm of your left hand. Pull fifteen or twenty cards from the center of the deck with your right hand as shown in Figure 3 and gently slap those cards on top of the deck. When done three or four times in rapid succession, such center cuts look very convincing, but the culled ace remains intact.


Figure 3 Removing Center Portion of Deck During Center Cut Now, as shown in Figure 4, grip the lower deck with your left thumb on one side, three fingers on the opposite side, and your left forefinger knuckled beneath the bottom card. Next, grip the upper deck with your right hand, four fingers on top, thumb pressed against lower left corner. At that moment, your right hand completely shields the deck. In a rapid "squaring" motion, press the lower left corner of the deck firmly down and inward with your right thumb to crimp that lower portion of the deck as shown in Figure 4. The thumb presses against and crimps one third to one half of the lower deck -- or roughly fifteen to twenty-five cards. That crimping move takes only a second and is undetectable.

Figure 4 Making a Side Crimp by Pushing Down Corner of Deck After the lower inside part of the deck has been crimped by your right thumb, shift your right hand to grip the rear lower edges of the deck between your thumb and fingers. Then make an undercut by pulling about half the deck from the bottom and slap those cards on top in a final cut. As you put the deck on the table, quickly square the sides with your fingers. The Neocheater places the deck with the crimp facing him. Thus, the sides facing his opponents have no visible gaps. Ideally, the crimp should not be visible, only felt. Good crimps leave gaps so slight that they are essentially invisible -- a sixty-fourth of an inch is good. And the gap should never be more than a thirty-second of an inch. (See Figure 5 in which the gap is just slightly larger than a thirty second of an inch for


illustrative purposes.) Too much pressure leaves a glaring gap, which, although facing only the cheater, makes the deck look awkwardly tilted.

Figure 5 Deck with an Exaggerated Side Crimp

4. Step Four -- Cutting the Ace. The deck is now crimped at the ace located in the middle of the deck. The sides of the deck are squared. If you lightly grasp the cards while cutting at about the halfway mark, your thumb will naturally cut at the crimp. Simply lift the upper part of the deck and you will have cut the ace. After the cut, flex the cards outward with your thumb and fingers to remove the crimp as shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6 Flexing Cards Outward to Remove Crimp After Cutting Missing your crimp can be caused by (a) not crimping forcefully enough -- a rarity with cardboard cards, (b) not squaring the sides of the deck just before you cut, or (c) gripping the deck too tightly as you cut.

The End Crimp A second method of crimping -- the end crimp -- requires pressure on the lower half of the deck while pulling it out to place on top during the final cut as shown in Figure 7. The pressure is exerted quickly with the thumb and fingers of the right hand while tilting the deck and using the left hand to shield the crimping motion from players on the left. Note that the forefinger of the left hand is knuckled 45

underneath the deck, holding it firmly as the lower half of the deck is pushed down and inward by the right thumb and fingers.

Figure 7 Another Way to Crimp -- The End Crimp Neocheaters often prefer another method of end crimping -- a deck-squaring method involving the right hand as a cover to shield the crimping motion from all directions: With the left forefinger knuckled beneath the bottom card to hold the deck firmly, the left thumb and middle fingers crimp by pulling both lower corners of the deck sharply downward and inward under the protective cover of the right hand that is seemingly squaring the deck. Figure 8 shows an end crimp with a gap slightly exaggerated for illustrative purposes. A few minutes of practice will reveal how much pressure [ 7 ] is necessary to produce a crimp that is barely visible but easily felt.

Figure 8 Deck with an Exaggerated End Crimp Because most players habitually cut at the sides of decks, end crimps reduce their chance of mistakenly hitting the crimp. Also, end crimps require much less pressure than side crimps and are easier to remove.

5. Letting Others Cut First. If another player is to cut first, the Neocheater crimps as usual, but then pulls at least three-quarters of the deck from the bottom and slaps it on top. (The gentle slapping 46

gives the cut an air of finality and conviction, as though he had really mixed the cards thoroughly.) The crimp would then lie quite low in the deck. And since the victim will seldom cut as deep as three-quarters of the deck, the ace is almost always left for the Neocheater.

6. Forcing Others to Cut Deuces or Treys. As an alternative approach when other players cut first, the Neocheater simply reverses his procedure: Instead of culling an ace, he culls a deuce or trey, crimps it, and places the crimp near the middle or slightly higher in the deck. The victim will often cut that deuce or trey at the crimp, leaving the Neocheater with very favorable odds for cutting a higher card.

7. Putting it All Together -- Quickly and Easily. Fortunes can be won and lost on card cutting. After a strenuous night of card playing, players will sometimes risk all their cash or winnings in a final rash or weary decision to "get it over with" on the cut of a single card. The Neocheater makes sure that the cash from cutting cards ends up in his pocket. The complete ace-cutting procedure -- riffling, locating the ace, shuffling, crimping, and cutting, including two or three center cuts, takes no more than fifteen seconds. With one hour of practice, you can do the entire procedure rapidly and smoothly. The success of the ace-cutting technique hinges on two basic maneuvers -- culling the ace (bringing it to the bottom of the deck) and then crimping the deck in a natural motion. ... The key steps in cutting aces with some added tips are reviewed below: First, riffle the deck to locate an ace. No matter how fast you stop when you see an ace, it usually slips past your thumb by one card, which necessitates the overhand shuffle to position that ace on the bottom. But suppose you stop dead on the ace. Simply complete the riffle, letting the ace --the bottom card of the deck-half in your right hand-- fall first so it is on the bottom. Then crimp and cut (an undercut) the deck to position the crimped ace within the deck. Gently square the sides of the deck before cutting to the crimp. Do not fumble or feel around for the crimp; just naturally grip the deck at about the crimp and the ace will be there waiting. Practice slowly at first. Strive for naturalness. When riffling, avoid having the cards directly facing you. Instead, hold them at a slight angle so you see just the corners flashing. And if you miss the aces on the first riffle or two, simply riffle shuffle again until you locate an ace -- riffle shuffles are reassuring to victims. After perhaps a center cut or two, crimp the deck in one quick movement. Remember, the Neocheater's hands and fingers shield the deck while crimping. Practice various pressures with your thumb. Strive to make the crimp nearly invisible. But if a slight gap exists, that is generally acceptable so long as it is not too obvious. Ideally, the gap should be felt, but not seen. 47

If suspicion develops during a sloppy crimp procedure, several quick center cuts after crimping instead of before can eliminate that suspicion. The undercut (which positions the crimped ace within the deck) looks reassuring immediately after a few center cuts. The center cuts must be pulled from the upper center portion of the deck to avoid disturbing the crimped portion of the deck. Now, after positioning the crimped ace in the deck with the undercut, square the deck, cut with a gentle grip, and you will not miss the ace. Practice cutting with your eyes closed to get the feel of the crimp. After cutting the ace, always flex the cards outward to remove the crimp. And if possible, give the edge of the deck a final riffle with your thumb to eliminate any remnants of the crimp. A good routine for practicing the entire ace-cutting procedure is to cull for ten minutes, crimp for five minutes, and repeat. Then perform the entire procedure from beginning to end for ten minutes. You can master the complete ace-cutting maneuver in an hour. *** In the next chapter, you will learn some shortcuts for culling and stacking. Neocheaters never disdain shortcuts or easy advantages in a card game. Indeed, they constantly seek them. The culling and stacking methods in the next chapter are fast and easy shortcuts routinely used by Neocheaters. After an hour of practice, you will be stacking yourself winning hands in fifteen seconds. You will be invisibly stacking yourself four of a kind in draw, a wheel [ 8 ] in lowball, and aces back-to-back in five-card stud while also knowing every opponent's hole card. ... And if you have ever wondered if professional cheaters really can stack themselves four of a kind with what appears to be two or three rapid shuffles and a cut, the next chapter will open your eyes.

8. Detection and Defense. Detection of Neocheating During Card Cutting


Neocheati ng Tells Suspicion Begins

· ·


The dealer looks at the cards while parting and riffling the deck. (Unreliable indicator since most card players do that.) The dealer drops the top card in his left hand on top of the riffled deck. In subsequent shuffles, the dealer keeps that card on top. The dealer holds the cards with a finger knuckled underneath deck.




Suspicion Grows


The dealer's right hand and forearm suddenly flexes while holding or "squaring" the cards -- could be the application of a crimp. Neocheating nearly confirmed when: 1. The dealer uses center cuts concluded with one undercut. 2. The dealer neatly squares the deck after placing it on table prior to cutting. 3. The dealer flexes cards outward after cutting himself an ace or king. The dealer gives the cards a final riffle after his cut. A crimp on the side or end of deck facing the dealer is observed or felt. Expert crimps, however, are nearly invisible.

Suspicion High

Defense Against Neocheating During Card Cutting · · · · ·



Let the Neocheater cull and crimp. Watch the final cut to know approximately where crimp lies. Decide if the Neocheater has crimped a low card or a high card by who is going to cut first and by the depth of the final undercut. Now you are in a cannot-lose situation. Insist on cutting first. The Neocheater usually places a high-card crimp low in the deck -- well below the point where opponents generally cut. Thus he will seldom object to your cutting first. Besides, a cheater will normally obey such requests by his "victim" to avoid suspicion. But if the cheater insists that he cuts first, tell him the bet is off. He will probably be relieved to drop it. When the Neocheater has prepared the deck for him to cut last, cut his ace at the low crimp (or avoid the high crimp at which he may have positioned a low-value card for you to cut). Remove the crimp after you cut with outward flex of the cards.


[ 5 ] If the reader thinks any special skill or dexterity is required for Neocheating, he can peruse the next chapter on Preliminary Stacking right now; and after thirty minutes of practice, he will be stacking aces back-to-back in stud or three of a kind in draw as effectively as many professional cardsharps. But the reader will still have to return to this chapter to learn two indispensable maneuvers.


[ 6 ] If the first ace you spot is too high or too low in the deck (within the top or bottom ten cards or so), pass that ace. Try stopping at an ace closer to the middle. But aces only a third of the way from the top or bottom of the deck are also perfectly workable. [ 7 ] Different cards (cardboard, plastic, and plastic-coated cards) require different pressures to crimp. [ 8 ] A "wheel " or "bicycle " is an A,2,3,4,5 of any suit - the best possible hand in most lowball poker games played today. [ 9 ] Rarely can Neocheating be confirmed by observing just one of the above tells. Since any Neocheating is natural appearing or invisible, it can be confirmed only by observing repeating sequences of tells. While various tells can be used to confirm personal suspicion, they are not grounds to prove cheating to others.


Chapter III THE SECOND MOVE -- STACKING FOUR OF A KIND In a later chapter, you will learn how to cull a desired hand and then stack it in the "normal" course of riffling, shuffling and cutting. But in this chapter, you will learn methods of discard stacking [ 10 ] -- simple, effective shortcuts commonly used by Neocheaters.

1. Three Techniques for Stacking Without Shuffling. The use of discards for either culling or stacking is fast, easy and, when done correctly, undetectable. The three basic methods of discard stacking are : 1) stacking while gathering discards, 2) stacking from discards tossed to the dealer face down, and 3) stacking from discards already piled on top of the deck. When you finish this chapter, you will be able to execute all three methods of discard stacking.

2. Stacking Aces Back-to-Back in Stud. Deal a five-handed game of five-card stud as shown in Figure 9. Note the face-up cards in the various hands. You will usually find two or three aces or kings showing. For the moment, however, confine yourself to stacking a pair of aces. As naturally and as quickly as possible, pick up two aces in a sequence that for a five-handed game will place four cards on top of each ace. (The number of cards placed on top of each card stacked for yourself must always be one less than the number of hands or players; an error in counting will cause the stacked hand to go awry.)

Figure 9 Scooping the First Ace While Discard Stacking


After thirty minutes of practice, you can execute discard stacking with smoothness and speed. Want proof? Set up five hands as shown in Figure 9. Now scoop up and stack yourself two aces in sequence for a five-handed game as shown in Figures 9 and 10: First, using the hole card in the fifth hand, scoop in that hand and turn it face down, leaving four cards on top of the ace. That ace is now stacked for your next hand. Next, pick the ten and jack off the ace in the third hand and slip those cards beneath the turned hole card (a three) as shown in Figure 10. Now scoop in that hand, leaving the ace on the bottom with four cards on top. By tossing those five cards face down on top of the first five cards stacked and throwing the combined stack on top of the deck, you have stacked yourself aces back to back. [ 11 ]

Figure 10 Scooping the Second Ace While Discard Stacking Breaking the sequence of a hand when gathering discards as done in Figure 10, or gathering part of one hand and then part of another, looks completely natural when done smoothly and without hesitation. ... Now you have two options for the remaining cards : l) Gather the remaining hands, turn them face down, and place the stacked deck on top of those cards. That option is the simplest procedure. 2) Gather the remaining hands, square those discards face down, lift half of the stacked portion of the deck and insert those discards. (Lift enough cards to protect your stack.) That option gives the appearance of a preliminary cut. With a little practice, you can effectively stack discards without thinking about it. And often desired cards will lay practically pre-stacked, particularly in games with five or more players. The Neocheater's motions are natural, his pace unhesitating. Using blocks of cards to scoop up other cards is natural. (Some players gather their hands and toss them to the dealer face down before he can stack them. That contingency will be explained later in this chapter.) Practice scooping up high pairs while stacking them in the process. The faster that is done, the smoother it looks. No one can see a dishonest move in the Neocheater who performs smoothly. He first chooses the order of


gathering cards in his mind and then promptly gathers the cards in that order. ... The following practice exercise will quickly make you an expert at discard stacking: Deal out a six-handed game of five-card stud. Choose your desired cards quickly. Then see how rapidly you can stack three or four of a kind for yourself by gathering the discards without hesitation. With six hands to select from, you will almost always have three of a kind available, and often four of a kind. (Do not bother with straights or flushes; they are not worth the effort of stacking a full five cards. Besides, stacking four or five cards is done more quickly and easily by the methods taught in Chapter V.) If you find a pair in one hand and two matching cards in two other hands, experiment with splitting that pair to stack four of a kind. Paired discards may be troublesome at first if they are to be part of your intended hand. But pairs are actually easy to handle. For example, if one hand contains a pair of aces, and the other two aces lie in different hands, attack the pair first. Scoop up a hand of five cards that does not have an ace and use that hand to split the pair of aces by scooping up the ace nearest you along with the cards after it and toss those cards on the deck. One ace is now stacked for six-handed poker. Suppose the other ace has two cards above it. Grab three cards from another hand, scoop up the two cards with that ace, and toss those six cards on top of the deck. You now have split and stacked that pair and can attack the other aces in order to stack yourself four aces. Incidentally, stacking wheels for lowball by discard gathering is almost as easy. After practicing discard stacking for an hour or so, you can stack yourself four of a kind in a few seconds while scooping up the discards. And after a few convincing blind shuffles (taught in the next chapter) and a false cut, you can deal yourself four of a kind with dazzling nonchalance. You eliminate any suspicion that might arise while discard stacking with blind shuffling, which when executed with any degree of smoothness, is undetectable from genuine shuffling. Combined with a false riffle or two and a false cut, the effect is so superb that those unfamiliar with Neocheating would never believe that a stacked deck could survive such thorough mixing. In fact, they would never have the faintest glimmer of what is happening.

3. Knowing Everyone's Hole Cards. While stacking aces back-to-back in five-card stud, the Neocheater can also know every opponent's hole card. How? He simply memorizes the sequence -- numbers only -- of those cards on top of the last ace he stacks (that last ace will be his hole card). A Neocheater always memorizes everyone's hole card -- not to do so would be an extravagant waste of an enormous advantage. [ 12 ] The Neocheater stacks his first ace while starting to gather the discards. As he scoops up his second ace, which will be his hole card on the next hand, he notes with a glance that the discards being scooped read, top down: 10-J-3-7-A. [ 13 ] After some blind shuffles and false cuts, and if necessary, successfully foiling an opponent's cut (taught in a later chapter), he recalls while dealing that the first player to his left has a ten in the hole, the second player has a jack, the third a three, the fourth a seven, and 53

he an ace. ... Mentally repeating the card sequence (i.e., 10-J-3-7-A) while shuffling and dealing aids the memory. The advantage of knowing everyone's hole card in stud is overwhelming, particularly while holding aces or kings back-to-back. In fact, the Neocheater can often make more money over the long run by not stacking the deck at all, but by simply knowing everyone's hole card and then playing accordingly. Indeed, consistently creating innocent, small advantages (rather than dramatic, huge advantages) is the key to a Neocheater's extracting maximum money from his opponents as demonstrated in the last chapter of this book. Suits of opponents' hole cards are of little importance in five stud and do not have to be memorized. The chances of catching a flush are minimal. In any case, the Neocheater with aces wired can either drive out opponents with flush possibilities or make them pay dearly to chase their flush. In addition, the Neocheater knows the refinements of peeking (described later) and can easily know the final card to be dealt to any opponent.

4. Stacking Face-Down Discards. As soon as the dealer for the next hand folds, impatient players often toss him their discards face down so he can without delay begin organizing the cards for the next deal. (Other players may keep their discards until the pot is won, or toss the cards to the side of the pot [ 14 ], or toss them to the current dealer, depending on whether he is in or out of play. Those situations are handled by a third technique of discard stacking taught later in this chapter.) To facilitate his setting up the next hand, the Neocheater usually drops out early when his deal is next, unless he has a strong possibility of winning that hand. And if stud poker is being played, he watches the cards closely to organize his upcoming scooping motions. Informal, private games constitute over 95% of all poker played. In those games, players after folding often glance at discards out of curiosity, usually without objection from others. But the Neocheater glances at discards only as he gathers them for dealing and then only when necessary. Moreover, his glancing action is completely natural and inconspicuous. For example, in a six-handed game of five stud, the Neocheater (his deal is next, so he is hereafter called the dealer) folds during the first round and turns his two cards face down. Player A folds during the second round of betting and tosses his three discards to the dealer. The dealer casually glances at the cards as he gathers them. An ace or king is not among them, so he puts those three cards face down on his own two cards. He now has a pile of five discards. Player C folds and tosses his three cards toward the dealer. Gathering them, the dealer casually glances at the cards to notice the hole card (a king) on top. So he places his pile of five discards on top of those three discards to stack himself a king for a six-handed game. During the next round, Player E folds and tosses the dealer his four discards, which contain a king. The dealer glances at the cards while quickly memorizing their 54

sequence from hole card to top card as Q-9-K-3. He must now inconspicuously get the king on the bottom to help his stack. He can do that in several ways: For instance, with cards face down, he can casually slip the trey to the top while squaring the cards, giving him 3-Q-9-K. Or he can spread the cards face down on the table and casually slide the third card-- the king -- beneath the others as he picks them up. Or he can, as many players have a nervous habit of doing, especially while waiting for other players to bet, slip the cards one by one from top to bottom while holding them face down in his fingers. In that case, he will pass only the Q-9-K, leaving the king on bottom. And, of course, he remembers the altered sequence (3-Q-9-K) in order to know everyone's hole card. After tossing the four rearranged cards on his stacked discard pile, he still needs two more cards on top to complete his stack; their values do not matter as long as he knows them. So he simply glances at two other discards, tosses them on top of his stacked pile, and puts that pile on top of the remaining discards. He has now stacked a pair of kings for himself and knows everyone's hole card for the next hand. To gain adroitness in discard stacking, deal random hands and toss yourself discards as players would. See how easily and quickly you can stack a deck by using those cards. You will soon be stacking three or four of a kind.

5. Stacking Four of a Kind and Wheels. In five-card stud, the dealer concerns himself only with stacking his first two cards and knowing the other players' hole cards. In seven-card stud, the dealer can easily stack himself three of a kind. (But stacking three of a kind in five-card stud does not work because someone usually folds the first round of betting and the third stacked card will go astray. Besides, the strength of three of a kind is seldom needed to win in five-card stud.) In draw, the dealer can stack himself three or four of a kind (or a wheel in lowball). After folding on the hand prior to his deal, he immediately begins collecting discards for his deal, glancing briefly at them when necessary, and proceeds with his culling or stacking: The Neocheater can stack three or four of a kind in draw quite easily. Remember, he scans the cards with a glance, never staring at them and always turning them face down as quickly as possible. His movements are natural -- casual and unhurried. Even for lowball, he can usually stack at least a four-card low combination, striving to include the joker if it is used. And he can frequently stack a wheel. Generally, however, the Neocheater avoids such powerful hands as they would be too suspicious to deal to himself hand after hand. Also, as explained in the final chapter, winning too often with powerful hands can actually work against winning maximum money. Now to proceed to the third method of discard stacking: Suppose the Neocheater has a good hand and prefers to play it out, although his deal is next. Or suppose the discards are tossed to the current dealer, and the Neocheater has no easy access to them. In those cases, all the discards or the entire deck may come to him in a flood, 55

all at once face down, when the play is over. The technique described next is a rapid and effective method for stacking or culling [ 15 ] in such situations. The Neocheater gathers the mess of discards, keeping the pile uneven with edges and corners of cards protruding at all angles. He holds the cards vertically and facing him as shown in Figure 11. In such situations, cards facing the dealer are quite natural and unsuspicious. To others, the dealer is simply shielding the card faces from the other players as he squares the deck before shuffling.

Figure 11 Bringing Aces to the Top Through Discard Culling What the Neocheater strives for is a virtual mess of cards that will completely conceal his culling. To the other players -- who see only the backs of the cards -- his culling is simply an attempt to square the deck by smoothing out awkwardly tilted cards. Done rapidly and casually, the entire process appears innocuous and normal to others. Quickly and smoothly, while straightening the sides of the deck and squaring the cards from their vertical angles to a horizontal position, he culls aces or kings (or unpaired low cards for lowball); he passes them to the top or bottom of the deck as shown in Figures 11 and 12. Once passed to the top or bottom, those cards are available for rapid stacking by several simple techniques described in Chapter V.

Figure 12 Bringing Aces to the Bottom Through Discard Culling


You can quickly and easily cull aces or kings from the discards. For example, spot an ace, pass it to the top; spot another, pass that quickly to the top; then repeat the process once or twice more. Three or four aces can be culled in a few seconds. While passing cards to the top (or bottom), use your fingers to alternate the passing movements with brief squaring motions on the sides of the deck. Or periodically take an awkwardly tilted card and pass it to the opposite end of the deck from your culled cards. The point is, never hesitate and keep your fingers in constant motion. When you cannot immediately locate a second or third ace, or other desired card, use your thumb to fan small batches of cards that may stick together. The fanning motion is shielded by other cards sticking out at various angles and, therefore, cannot be seen by other players. Such fanning not only spreads the cards for a better selection, but also keeps the deck from being squared too quickly. With a little practice, anyone not only can cull, but also can discard stack by the above method. For example, stack a pair of aces for stud: First find an ace in the mass of discards and pass it to the top. Next seize two or three cards and pass those above the ace. Then while keeping count, pass two or three more cards to the top, depending on the number of cards you are trying to stack above the ace. Alternate the culling movements with brief but deceptive squaring motions on the sides of the deck. Now find and pass your second ace to the top, fanning cards with your thumb if necessary to locate that ace. Then again pass the necessary number of cards above that ace so both aces are stacked to end up in-your hand. ... And as always, memorize the top cards of the stack in order to know everyone's hole card. But since several easier and quicker stacking techniques are taught in Chapter V, the above discard-squaring method is usually reserved for rapid culling. In any case, the Neocheater never spends more than eight or ten seconds with the deck facing him. Practice seizing and quickly passing desired cards to the top or bottom of the deck. And the more uneven the discards are, the more selection and time you will have for culling cards. (In Figure 12, the culled cards have been passed to the bottom and the deck has been squared.) When practicing this method of discard stacking, start by dropping the deck face down from a height of six inches onto the table. Use a sharp twisting motion with your wrist to unevenly spread the corners of the cards. Or actually deal out hands and then gather them as discards, deliberately effecting sloppiness while tossing those cards on top of the deck so they will require more time to square. In either case, pick up the mess of cards all at once and commence with culling or stacking. Fan small batches of cards with your thumb to expose their corners. Glance at the cards, but never stare. Keep your eyes in motion, glancing from the cards, to where a player would be, back to the cards, to where the ante would be - all in an unhurried pattern. ... When done without hesitation, discard culling and stacking look quite natural. Try discard culling in front of a mirror to see the moves from the victims' viewpoint. ***


Now that the Neocheater has stacked himself a winning hand, how does he thoroughly shuffle and cut the deck without destroying his stack? . . . The answer lies in the next chapter.

6. Detection and Defense. Detection of Neocheating During Discard Stacking

[ 16 ]

Neocheating Tell s Suspicion Begins

· · · · · · ·

Suspicion Grows

· · · ·

· Suspicion High


A player regularly folds early on hands just prior to his deal. The dealer effects sloppiness while gathering and picking up all the discards at once. The dealer keeps the discards facing him while squaring them. The dealer fans the discards (sometimes noticeable when looking for that maneuver). The dealer gathers the discards in sections rather than all at once. The dealer glances at discards. The dealer juggles separate stacks of discards before combining them. The dealer runs some cards one by one from top to bottom of the discard pile just before his deal. The dealer moves cards to top or bottom of the deck while squaring them. The dealer places a pile of discards on top of the deck and inserts another pile either under or between the deck. The dealer gathers discards, especially in stud, with scooping motions. While the cheating moves of a good discard stacker quickly gathering cards with both hands are invisible, his scooping motions can indicate stacking. The dealer bets in an abnormal manner unless he knew his opponents' hole cards. The dealer wins more frequently when dealing, especially with wired high pairs in five stud, wired trips in seven stud, or three of a kind or better in draw.

Defenses Against Discard Stacking · · ·

Whenever the suspect is to deal, take charge of gathering discards and present them to the suspected dealer in a neatly squared pile. Fold early whenever the suspect deals. Just as the suspect is about to deal, politely -- or somewhat suspiciously -excuse yourself from the hand and have him deal you out. His stacked hand will be scattered among the other players. Do that once or twice and the prudent cheater will stop cheating.


· ·

Ask to cut the deck and complete the cut yourself. Introduce and enforce a house rule that prohibits the dealer from looking at discards. Use other defense methods described in later chapters and applicable after learning about blind shuffling stacked decks. You will even learn how to make cheaters work against themselves and for you, which eventually halts their cheating or bankrupts them while enriching you.


[ 10 ] Everything in this chapter that applies to stacking also applies to culling (bringing desired cards to the top or bottom of the deck). Culling is easier and quicker than stacking, but culling is useless until you learn the simple stacking techniques described in Chapter V. [ 11 ] A discard stacker will alter his scooping sequences to prevent suspicion. For example, he may gather eight cards with an ace being the third card from the top after throwing them face down on the deck; and then he may gather six cards with another ace being the fifth card from the top after tossing those cards on the deck. He has now stacked himself aces back to back. Moreover, a good discard stacker can quickly gather discards with both hands simultaneously making his stacking moves impossible to follow. [ 12 ] Likewise, the Neocheater can easily know both hole cards of every opponent in seven-card stud or hold 'em poker by memorizing the appropriate number of cards stacked on top of the deck. [ 13 ] In both describing and memorizing hands, it is easier to refer to an ace as A, a king as K, a queen as Q, a jack as J, the joker or bug as B, and all other cards by their numerical values. [ 14 ] If the discards are tossed to the side of the pot, the dealer of the next round can usually begin gathering them immediately after he drops out of the current hand. [ 15 ] As mentioned earlier, what applies to stacking discards also applies to culling. Culling simply involves maneuvering desired cards to the top or bottom of the deck without stacking them. Discard culling is especially important in Chapter V, which describes and teaches other simple but highly effective stacking techniques involving culled cards. [ 16 ] Rarely can Neocheating be confirmed by observing just one of the above tells. Since any Neocheating is natural appearing or invisible, it can be confirmed only by observing repeating sequences of tells. While various tells can be used to confirm personal suspicion, they are not grounds to prove cheating to others. ... Anyone,


however, can without ever seeing a dishonest move detect cheating by perceiving illogical and improbable bets as demonstrated in the anecdotes in Chapter I.


Chapter IV THE THIRD MOVE -- CONTROLLING HANDS Many traditional cheaters use flagrant ploys to deal themselves good hands. As crude as their ploys may be, however, they often work when blended with basic Neocheating maneuvers of blind shuffling and false riffling. For example, some amateurs pretend to count the cards face up to make sure the deck is complete (e.g., "This deck doesn't feel complete", or "Are you sure the cards are all here?" are common signals). During their ploy, they casually cull aces to the top or bottom of the deck and proceed to center cut and crimp. Then a few blind shuffles and a false cut or two make their ploy effective. Essentially all effective cheaters today mix at least some Neocheating into their techniques. Indeed, the Neocheating portion of their techniques makes them workable. The pure Neocheater, however, uses only the simple and invisible techniques described in this book. Crass ploys such as described in the above paragraph are never used or needed by the pure Neocheater.

1. Controlling Hands While Shuffling. Blind Shuffling Blind shuffling is crucial to the Neocheater. He automatically and constantly blind shuffles -- with deadly effects. Blind shuffling is easy. With about two hours of practice, anyone can appear to thoroughly shuffle a deck of cards while actually leaving the upper half or two thirds of the deck (the stack) undisturbed. Blind shuffling is a key tool for Neocheaters. Any suspicion aroused by awkward or hesitant movements in the process of stacking is dissipated after a few blind shuffles and a false cut. In fact, in many games, a player could simply spread cards on a poker table and laboriously stack them one by one as other players watch, but as long as he thoroughly blind shuffles the deck afterward, no one will accuse him of cheating. So effective is the blind shuffle that a person can stack a number of cards, blind shuffle and then convince opponents that their cards are marked by reading the values of the cards prior to turning them over one by one. Or he can convince players that he is a "psychic", able to read the backs of cards with his eyes tightly shut while his fingertips "feel the vibes". He can fool anyone -- not only mystics, but scientists, businessmen, poker professionals -- anyone except another Neocheater or the reader of this book.


Ironically, intelligent men can spend thousands of hours playing cards, but know nothing about manipulating them. And almost all honest cardplayers are ignorant of Neocheating maneuvers. "I can spot a crook anytime," is one indicator of an easy target for the Neocheater. The Neocheater loves to encounter the closed mind. He knows how easy it is to empty the wallet of the man who thinks he knows everything. Professional cheaters generally disdain tricks such as "proving" cards are marked or "reading" them with their fingertips. Professionals call those tricks cheap flash, but such tricks demonstrate the seemingly miraculous effects of blind shuffling. Commencing with the blind shuffle: Step One: Assume that you have stacked the deck using either discard stacking or methods described later. You now need to produce the illusion of thoroughly shuffling the deck before dealing. So begin by preparing for what appears to be a normal overhand shuffle by placing the deck in your left hand as shown in Figure 13. Note the position of the fingers on the deck: Thumb on top, forefinger placed against the front edge, two middle fingers on bottom, and the little finger curled around the rear edge. Hold the deck so it feels comfortable and natural. (Neocheaters generally use those finger positions when shuffling blind or otherwise.) Tilt the upper end slightly downward toward the table to facilitate faster shuffling and to keep the cards from flashing. With your right hand, pull half the deck or less from the bottom using the two right center fingers and right thumb on opposite ends. The right forefinger should rest on top of the deck portion just pulled out by your right hand.

Figure 13 Holding the Deck During the Blind Shuffle Now, using your left thumb, slide the top card from the deck portion in your right hand onto the deck portion retained in your left hand. But jut this top card toward you about an eighth of an inch (or slightly more) so that it protrudes a little from the rear of the deck in your left hand. Your curled left little finger will rest against this jutting card on top. Now casually overhand shuffle the remaining cards in the right


hand, a few at a time, onto the top jutting card in the left hand. The jutting card is now located near the middle of the deck, and your cards should look approximately like those shown in Figure 13. The jutting card, hereafter called the break card, creates a break in the deck not visible to others. The half of the deck beneath the break-card is the stack. That portion of the deck will remain intact. Step Two: Withdraw the lower part of the deck, the stack, with your right hand, up to but not including the jutting break card, and throw this entire portion on top of the cards in your left hand, briefly squaring the deck with your right fingers. Now the stack sits again undisturbed on the top; yet, the deck appears to be shuffled. Repeat steps one and two for ten minutes, doing the steps as relaxed and smoothly as you can. Do not worry about speed; simply get the feel of that jutting break-card. Your left little finger should be brushing the break-card, and your right thumb should easily feel the break-card as you pull out the stack. Try for a natural rhythm, a casual pace. After the first ten minutes of practice, you should not have to look at the cards. The Neocheater does not worry about others being conscious of the jutting breakcard; the deck is in constant motion and looks perfectly normal. For anyone to see the break-card, they would have to stand directly behind the dealer. Even then the deck would look normal, for no one shuffles cards with the edges of the deck precisely squared at all times. Ideally, the break-card should protrude no more than an eighth of an inch, although protrusion varies from time to time up to a quarter of an inch. Now, prepare to repeat the overhand shuffle in Step One by placing the deck in the left hand as shown in Figure 13. The stack is on the top. As before, with your right hand, pull half the deck or less from the bottom using the two right center fingers and right thumb on opposite ends of the deck. Then using your left thumb, slide the top card of the deck portion just pulled out by your right hand onto the deck portion retained in your left hand. Jut this top card toward you about an eighth of an inch, protruding slightly from the rear of the deck. Your curled left little finger will rest against this protruding break-card. Now overhand shuffle the remaining cards in the right hand on top of the jutting break-card in the left hand. Step Three: Next, with your right hand, lift the entire deck from your left hand to prepare to overhand shuffle back into the left hand. But first press your right thumb against the jutting break-card (now located approximately in the middle of the deck) with an upward pressure while squaring that break-card against the rear of the deck. You will create a slight gap (about a thirty-second of an inch wide) at the rear of the deck. Figure 14 shows that gap slightly exaggerated for illustrative purposes.


Figure 14 The Gap During the Blind Shuffle The gap will appear only at the rear of the deck and should extend no more than an inch or so along the length of the deck. Be sure your right forefinger extends across the top of the deck shielding the gap from opponents as shown in Figure 14 (in the photograph, the deck is angled for illustrative purposes so that you can view the otherwise hidden gap). Step Four: Now overhand shuffle the cards, a few at a time, from your right hand into your left hand, but only up to the gap. When you reach the gap (you will feel the gap with your right thumb), throw the remaining block of cards -- your stack -- in a single toss on top of the shuffled cards in your left hand. You now have your undisturbed stack back on top of the deck once again. Practice that move for ten or fifteen minutes. Your gap will probably be too wide at first, so strive to narrow it. Practice the complete blind shuffle slowly at first, trying to develop a natural, unhesitating rhythm. During the first twenty minutes or so of practice, you will tend to hesitate while shuffling up to the gap. And you will probably stare at the cards, afraid of missing the gap and shuffling some cards off the stack. The right thumb, however, will quickly get the feel of the gap. If during practice your fingers tend toward dryness and you find the cards slipping as you shuffle, try using a moistening preparation such as Sortkwik or Tacky Finger, which are inexpensive preparations used for billcounting and are available at most office supply stores. Once your fingers become familiar with the jutting break-card and the gap, you will rarely have to look at the deck. Although glancing at the cards while shuffling is perfectly natural and does not cause suspicion, Neocheaters make the gap as small as possible, but allow enough of a gap to work smoothly. A thirty-second of an inch or less is good. To help determine how small you can make your gap and still work smoothly, turn the top card of the deck face up as you practice, and make certain that the same top card of your stack reappears each time the shuffle is completed. When practicing the blind shuffle, do not gap the deck during the first twenty minutes of practice. After you get the feel of the break-card, start using the gap. Then


begin gapping the deck every time. For variety, however, during every three or four blind shuffles you might use the jutting break-card only (without the gap) during the blind shuffle. Practice keeping at least half the deck intact by overhand shuffling only about half to a third of the deck from the bottom onto the jutting break-card. Practice doing the blind shuffle strictly by feel when you are watching television or at other idle times. Rhythm is more important than speed; you will gain speed naturally with practice. This shuffle can be done slowly, and it will look convincing as long as it is done smoothly and without hesitation, especially when creating the gap. After an hour of practice, this maneuver becomes so easy and routine that you will be blind shuffling with fair smoothness and steadiness. In two to three hours, blind shuffling becomes second nature. It is that simple. Done correctly, the deck appears to be thoroughly shuffled. And when the blind shuffle is done in conjunction with the false riffle and false cut (described later in this chapter), you can convince even the most alert players that the deck has been thoroughly mixed. Using that basic blind shuffle and a simple false cut (described later), even neophytes can shuffle their cards and then deal themselves prestacked four aces or straight flushes to everyone's astonishment. No one questions that the cards have been thoroughly shuffled. And no one can imagine how a prestacked deck could survive such shuffling. Even a beginner can cull four aces or four kings using the simple discard-culling technique described in the previous chapter. He can then give the deck several rapid blind shuffles, a false cut, and triumphantly toss four aces off the top of the deck to the astonishment of all observers. Moreover, beginners need to master nothing more than a preliminary discard-stacking technique and the blind shuffle, plus have some knowledge about Neocheating to win in almost any game. Let us assume you have spent at least an hour or two practicing the blind shuffle and can now perform it fairly easily. To test its effectiveness, pick up someone else's deck. Fan the first three or four cards, face down, and pretend to study the designs on their backs for about ten seconds. Frown as you study the cards, as though something were suspicious. Then turn the cards face up and glance at them to quickly memorize the cards in their proper sequence before turning them face down again. Forget the suits; they are unimportant. Square the cards together in your right hand and then fan the next three or four cards face down. Again, study their designs for a few moments and then, in a quick glance, memorize those cards in sequence. During this ruse, glance at the cards as briefly as possible -- as if confirming something you have seen in the designs on their backs. Rapidly square this next batch of memorized cards beneath the first memorized batch in your right hand. You might be able to fan and memorize another batch of cards. Many people, however, have trouble memorizing more than six or seven digits. But after a little practice, most people can learn to easily remember nine or ten digits. Still, no more than six or seven memorized cards are necessary to make this ruse convincing. 65

Constantly repeat in your mind the numbers in groups of three or four at a time as you shuffle. Now put the memorized cards back on top of the deck in your left hand. The memorized top cards may be, for example, Q-6-2-A-5-10-J -- you need to memorize only their initials. Next proceed to blind shuffle several times, explaining as you shuffle that imperfections in the manufacturer's design exist as tiny flaws that are consistent in every deck of that particular brand. Talk also serves as a minor distraction from the shuffle; although if you can blind shuffle with even minimum competence, you can perform in total silence in a filled amphitheatre without anyone knowing that you are blind shuffling. If you think experienced cardplayers will not believe a story about visible imperfections on the backs of cards, proceed as follows: When you have finished your blind shuffles, slap the deck gently onto the table (creating an air of finality; rarely will anyone ask to cut the cards when you do that, especially if you do not hesitate and proceed immediately), lean close to the cards and "read" them from their backs, one by one. Take your time before calling and turning each card -- four or five seconds is about right. Peer intently at the backs of the cards before calling them, and then note your viewers' reactions. By the time you have "read" the fifth or sixth card, your audience will be studying the backs of the called cards. You can send experienced cardplayers on long searches for "legal" marks on cards. Ironically, they will often find such marks and imperfections, especially in cheaper brands of cards, that will actually let them read the backs of certain cards. Professional cheaters scoff at such pointless ruses. (If no profit exists, why bother?) But those ruses demonstrate the power of the blind shuffle. And beginners can use ruses for practice and to build confidence before actually Neocheating for money. Be certain your blind shuffles are smooth before you attempt such demonstrations. Combined with the false cut described later in this chapter, the effect is spectacular. You must always be aware of the number of cards in the stack. If a Neocheater stacks aces back-to-back for stud poker in a six-handed game, he worries only about keeping the top twelve cards of the deck intact. If he has stacked four of a kind in a six-handed game, then he must keep twenty-four cards unshuffled. And if he has stacked a pat hand or a wheel in lowball, he then has thirty cards in his stack -- more than half the deck for a six-handed game.... Professionals seldom stack straights or flushes in draw because of the number of cards involved. Why stack five-card pat hands when four of a kind is easier to stack. [ 17 ] In any case, when stacking pat hands, you must keep up to two-thirds of the deck intact. That is, you actually shuffle only the bottom third or so of the deck. Do not worry about appearances; if your blind shuffle is smooth, the cards will seem mixed beyond suspicion. a. Detecting Blind Shuffling * Observe the dealer's grip on the deck when shuffling. Beware if the grip resembles that shown in Figure 13.


* Watch for an initial one-card pass from one hand to the other during the overhand shuffle (indicates a break-card). * Watch for the dealer who consistently tosses an unshuffled portion of the deck over the shuffled portion. (Must be alert to see that.) b. Defending Against Blind Shuffling * Review the nine methods on page 6 to eliminate cheating or cheaters. * Insist on cutting the deck whenever the Neocheater deals and then ruin his stack with deliberate center cuts. * Sit to the Neocheater's right and carefully cut at the crimp plus cut one extra card. You will then receive the hand stacked for the dealer.

2. Controlling Hands While Riffling. False Riffling The false riffle shuffle is nearly as effective as the blind shuffle and is necessary for certain kinds of culling and stacking taught in the next chapter. Moreover, the false riffle is easy to learn: The deck is stacked. Now, handle the deck in the same way described for culling an ace in Chapter II. That is, place the thumb and two center fingers of the right hand at opposite ends of the deck while knuckling the forefinger down on top. Riffle-part the end of the deck with your thumb as shown in Figure 1A on page 25. But before reaching the halfway mark, stop riffling and pass the lower portion of the parted deck to your left hand. Now begin a riffle interlacing of the cards, but riffle the cards in your left hand much more rapidly than those in your right hand, and retain the top card in your left hand with your left thumb. At that stage you should still have a block of about fifteen or so cards in your right hand that are unshuffled (your stack). Smoothly and rapidly drop that entire block on top of the interlaced portion and then, without hesitation, drop the card retained by your left thumb on top of your intact stack as shown in Figure 15. (The retained card -- the ace -- is deliberately flashed for illustrative purposes . . . Neocheaters normally do not flash cards.) Immediately push the halves together and square the deck.

Figure 15 Retaining the Top Card with the Left Thumb During the False Riffle


Practice this riffle shuffle repeatedly, getting the feel of that single card retained by your left thumb, and quickly dropping that card at the last moment to complete the riffle. Later, you will learn a refined version of the false riffle that looks considerably smoother, [ 18 ] but you must first perform this basic false riffle with ease. After each riffle shuffle, you will have one extra card on top of the deck -- on top of the unshuffled block of cards that is your stack. (Eventually, you will be able to leave at least half the deck unshuffled this way, but do not attempt manipulating large stacks at this stage.) Treatment of those extra cards accumulated on top by false riffling will be discussed shortly. Perform the riffle shuffle with rapidity. Unlike the blind shuffle, never try the riffle shuffle slowly. And although the movements may feel awkward at first, the shuffle does not appear awkward to other players. After only a few minutes of practice you will develop enough speed to increase the number of unshuffled cards until you can keep half the deck or more intact while riffle shuffling. To preserve, for example, a four-of-a-kind stack in a seven-handed game, part and then pass only about a third of the deck to your left hand for riffle shuffling. Then interlace all but the top card in your left hand with only the bottom third or so of the cards in your right hand. Now drop the entire batch of cards retained in your right hand (which contains your undisturbed stack) on top of the interlaced cards and then immediately drop the final, single card retained by your left thumb. You will now have your stack preserved one card below the top of the deck. Suppose you do the false riffle shuffle four times. You will then have four extra cards to remove from the top of your stack. The simplest method to remove those cards is to blind shuffle. So proceed with the blind shuffle (as described earlier in this chapter) by placing the squared, riffle-shuffled deck in your left hand and pulling out about a third of the cards from the lower portion of the deck with your right hand. Now with your left thumb, pull the top card from your right hand back onto the lefthand portion and jut that top card slightly. Next, overhand shuffle all the other cards in your right hand onto the cards in your left hand. The break-card is jutting out from the rear of the deck four cards above your stack. With your right hand, pull out all the cards up to the break-card and then with your left thumb, slide off (overhand shuffle) those four extra cards from the top of your stack very rapidly, one by one, back into your left hand. Then toss in a single block all the remaining cards in your right hand on top of the deck portion in your left hand and quickly follow with another complete blind shuffle. To facilitate running the cards one by one, spend five minutes running through the entire deck with your left thumb slipping the cards off one at a time as quickly as possible. In many games, the blind shuffle and the false cut are sufficient tools for the Neocheater. But the false riffle is indispensable to the Neocheater using the stacking techniques described in the next chapter. 68

a. Detecting False Riffling * The cards move too fast for even an alert player to see a good false riffle. But closely watch left thumb of dealer for retaining the top card and consistently dropping that card last. b. Defending Against False Riffling * Same defenses as against blind shuffling described on page 62. ***

3. Keeping the Stacked Deck Intact While Cutting. False Cutting With your undisturbed stack resting on top of a "thoroughly shuffled" deck, you then want to execute a legitimate-appearing cut that leaves your stack intact. To accomplish that, grasp the deck with both hands at opposite ends with the thumbs and index fingers (or middle fingers) as shown in Figure 16. Now while looking at Figures 16-18, execute this false cut by first pulling out about a third of the deck from the bottom with your right thumb and index finger and place those cards on top of the deck portion held by your left thumb and index finger (but retain your grip on the block of cards in your right hand). Then as shown in Figure 17, grasp the upper half of the cards held by your left hand with part of your right thumb and right middle finger while simultaneously releasing your left thumb and index finger from that same block of cards. At that brief moment, the deck will be split into three separate blocks, your right thumb and index and middle fingers gripping the two upper blocks while the left thumb and middle finger grips the bottom portion as shown in Figure 17.

Figure 16 Starting the False Cut


Figure 17 Breaking the Deck into Thirds Instantly release the uppermost block from your right index finger and thumb, at the same time pulling outward and slightly upward the two other blocks beneath held by your right and left hands. Each hand will be grasping about a third of the deck as you do this, and the top portion will now fall through the other two blocks of cards onto the table. You may use your right index finger to help guide the right-hand portion of loose cards as they fall to the table. Next, with a slow smooth motion, slap the portion of the deck in your left hand onto those loose cards now on the table as shown in Figure 18. Then place the remaining cards (your stack) in your right hand on top of those cards and square the deck. Again, your stack sits undisturbed on top. Executed with any degree of smoothness, the cut looks very thorough and legitimate.

Figure 18 Placing the Stack on Top A mirror to view your motions is helpful for practice. For the best effect, you should perform the cut fairly rapidly, but slow down to place the two remaining blocks of cards from your left and right hands on top of the portion that falls to the table. Your stack will end up intact on top of the deck. After thirty minutes of practice, you can execute this cut fairly smoothly. Remember to angle the card-blocks in your right and left hands in a slight upward sweeping motion as the top block falls between them. Strive for gracefulness. Again, the first phase of this cut, including dropping the top block between the other two portions in 70

your hands, should be done fairly fast. But the final phase, which completes the cut by placing the other two blocks of cards on top, should be done more slowly. More false cuts are described later in this book. But learn this basic standby cut first. The cut need not be done perfectly to be effective. And even if the cards tend to spread somewhat when they are dropped, do the cut without hesitation. a. Detecting False Cutting * Watch for the same block of cards consistently ending on top of the deck. * Be suspicious of fancy cuts, extra thorough-looking cuts, and quick threeway cuts. Also, watch for simple crimp cuts (described next in this chapter). b. Defending Against False Cutting * Same defenses as against blind shuffling described on page 62. *** The three basic techniques in this chapter -- blind shuffling, false riffling, and false cutting -- are invaluable to the Neocheater. He uses those techniques constantly. With only a few hours practice, each technique quickly becomes habit, performed routinely without groping or thinking. The blind shuffle will usually dispel any suspicion of cheating or stacking. For example, when cutting an ace for high card, a Neocheater culls an ace to the top of the deck in one riffle shuffle; he then blind shuffles the deck four or five times, runs the ace to the bottom in one overhand shuffle, crimps the lower deck, gives it two or three rapid center cuts and then a final bottom cut before slapping the deck on the table. ... The deck now appears thoroughly shuffled and cut. The blind shuffle is more convincing than the false riffle. And when the blind shuffle is combined with the false cut, the illusion is deadly. In certain games, Neocheaters will not even need to offer the deck for a cut, and rarely will anyone request a cut if the Neocheater executes the blind shuffle and false cut with any degree of smoothness.

4. Controlling Hands as Other Players Cut. Foiling the Cut The Neocheater discard stacks himself aces back-to-back for stud poker, knows everyone's hole card, thoroughly blind shuffles and false cuts the deck, and is ready to deal. But what if an opponent demands a cut? An easy and simple method often used by Neocheaters to foil an opponent's cut is described below. Other more sophisticated techniques for negating any cut are described in later chapters. Before offering the deck for a cut, the Neocheater rapidly crimps the deck as he would for cutting an ace as described in Chapter II and illustrated in Figures 4 and 5. He crimps by pushing downward and inward the bottom corner of the deck with his right thumb. Now with the stack on top, he quickly cuts the deck and then extends 71

the crimped and squared deck to the player on his right for his cut. If that player cuts at the crimp, the stacked cards will end up right back on top of the deck, ready for dealing. Most players will cut at any crimp near the middle of the deck eighty per cent of the time. Their thumb and fingers automatically go to the crimp four out of five times, even though they are unaware of the gap. The crimp is slight, and it is extremely unlikely that anyone would notice the gap. Even if the gap were noticed, few would consider it unusual since many players, especially chronic losers, bend and punish cards violently during the course of play as though the cards were mortal enemies. The player on the right will occasionally miss the crimp, although the odds are well in the Neocheater's favor. But the professional accepts this vicissitude. Or he can use one of the advanced techniques (taught in Chapter VI) for foiling the cut. Those techniques do not depend on opponents cutting at the crimp. In any case, the professional makes a habit of noticing at what position the player on his right habitually cuts the deck -- near the top, middle, or roughly the three-quarter mark. He then places the crimp accordingly. Most players unthinkingly cut the deck at the approximate center. If the player on the right consistently cuts at the ends of the deck instead of the sides, the Neocheater simply crimps at the ends, using the endcrimping technique described in Chapter II and illustrated in Figures 7 and 8. The crimp used for high-card cutting (as described in Chapter II) is gapped on only one side of the deck. In the course of a game, however, as opposed to high-card cutting, players are less alert to the cutting process, and your crimp will usually be more effective if it exists on both sides of the deck. Crimping both sides of the deck is described below: First, crimp as you would when cutting for an ace, but instead of bending the lower left corner of the deck with your right thumb as described in Chapter II, push down with your right thumb at the center of the lower rear end of the deck. That will cause both sides of the deck to gap. Too much pressure from the thumb, however, will create a glaring crimp. Some professionals use "agents" (other players working in collusion) who sit to their right. They will cut at the dealer's crimp every time or use a convincing false cut (such as the three-way false cut described on pages 66-70) that leaves the stack intact. The colluding partners also use a variety of other techniques to drain opponents of their money; those tactics will be covered in Chapter VII. This book, however, primarily teaches the lethal techniques of Neocheating -- techniques increasingly used by ordinary people who walk into games on their own and walk away with stuffed wallets, without ever using confederates, marked cards, or artificial and dangerous devices. But for the sake of comprehensiveness, all cheating methods and contrivances will be identified in later chapters. A Neocheater's effectiveness and margin of safety lies in his own ten fingers. Anyone who can perform the maneuvers described up to this point with a degree of 72

smoothness is already on par with most working professionals. Now you are ready for the stacking techniques covered in the next chapter. None are exceptionally difficult, two are relatively easy, and all are based primarily on techniques you already know.


[ 17 ] In any case, a Neocheater will seldom stack such powerful sure-thing hands because they are less profitable in the long run, as explained in Chapter Xl. [ 18 ] That version of riffle shuffling is called the Las Vegas Variation (it is the shuffle used by dealers in the Las Vegas casinos). As described in Chapter V, the deck in the Las Vegas Variation is completely shielded by the hands during the riffle shuffle.


Chapter V CULLING AND STACKING -- THE INVISIBLE WAY 1. Culling and Stacking the Neocheating Way. Neocheaters extensively use the discard-culling and discard-stacking techniques described in Chapter III because easy opportunities to cull from the discards exist almost every time they deal. But also, with only a few hours' practice, anyone can pick up any deck without knowing the whereabouts of a single card and then cull and stack a hand in the "normal" course of riffling and shuffling. Indeed, the Neocheater will frequently cull and stack during the shuffle in conjunction with his discard stacking. Assume, for example, he has stacked only one ace using the discards. He can easily add a second and a third ace to his stack during the shuffle by using the techniques taught in this chapter. This chapter will progress from the easiest to the somewhat more difficult stacking techniques executed while shuffling. Every stacking technique has its advantages and disadvantages. The first technique described is the undercut shuffle. It is the easiest and fastest way to stack a deck during the shuffle. With a little practice, you can stack any hand with any number of players in any game in one undercut shuffle -you can stack yourself a pair, three of a kind, full house, four of a kind, straight flush, royal flush, or in lowball, a pat wheel. [ 19 ] In fact, you can execute undercut stacking with some degree of skill in ten minutes. In thirty minutes, you will be competent at stacking. And in an hour or two, you will stack with professional ease. While the undercut shuffle is less subtle than other techniques, Neocheaters execute the undercut with speed and confidence to dissipate any suspicion. Moreover, undercut stacking is safe in neighborhood games and informal sessions, especially in low-stake to medium-stake games. But Neocheaters would not use the technique in knowledgeable company, and almost never in professional high-stake games. Yet, the undercut is often used with great success in high-stake games with naive or unalert players and is a powerful money pump in the average Friday-night poker game. The first step in undercut stacking requires culling. You already know two culling methods: Culling from discards described in Chapter III, and riffle culling described in Chapter II. Riffle culling is the only practical technique to stack a deck cold (i.e., when no discards are available such as with a new deck, a deck just put into play, or when alternating decks are used for every other hand). With a few hours of practice, you can control any cold deck through riffle culling. If you can cull one ace in one riffle, you can cull four aces in four riffles. Riffle culling is taught in more detail later in this chapter.


But for now, assume you have culled a winning hand by using one of the discardgathering methods. For example, someone tosses you his folded two pair, kings over sixes, while someone else folds a hand with a pair of kings. You then maneuver those four kings on top of the deck by using the discard-squaring method described in Chapter III. You are now ready to execute the undercut. a. Undercut Stacking Your four culled kings, however, must be on the bottom of the deck to execute the undercut. You can cull discards to the bottom instead of the top of the deck, but culling to the top is usually smoother and more natural appearing. Moreover, the technique that switches culled cards from the top of the deck to the bottom is very easy and takes only a few seconds: Lift the deck in your right hand for an overhand shuffle and rapidly slide off your four culled kings, one by one, with your left thumb into your left hand. Then overhand shuffle the rest of the deck from the right hand onto those four cards in your left hand. Now your four kings are on the bottom of the deck ready for the undercut. In the previous chapter, you practiced running cards one by one off the deck with your left thumb. The undercut depends on running off cards rapidly and smoothly. The maneuver is easy if your thumb and fingers are not too dry. Some professional stackers keep in their pocket a thin, small diameter container of a moistening conditioner such as Sortkwik or Tacky Finger used for bill-counting. As their deal approaches, they moisten their fingertips to make the undercut easier. But such conditioners must be used sparingly so as not to leave any residue on the cards and are generally avoided by Neocheaters. Now, returning to undercut stacking: Your four kings are on the bottom, and you must deal six hands. So grasp the deck in the right hand for an overhand shuffle. With your left thumb and left two center fingers, simultaneously grasp both the top and bottom cards of the deck and pull them together into your left hand as illustrated in Figure 19. That move is called the undercut and is used here to place bottom cards (i.e., your four culled kings) in the desired stacked position. Now, with your left thumb, rapidly run off four cards from the top of the deck in your right hand onto the two cards in your left hand. Repeat the process: Top card and bottom card from the right hand are pulled together into the left hand, then four successive cards are pulled from the top of the right-hand portion of the deck onto the cards in your left hand. Repeat the same process twice more to finish stacking your four kings for a six-handed game.


Figure 19 Pulling Cards from the Deck During the Undercut Then pull one more card onto the left-hand cards; jut that card towards you about one eighth of an inch. [ 20 ] Next, overhand shuffle the remaining deck from the right hand onto that jutting break-card in your left hand. Now complete your blind shuffle by pulling out all the cards beneath the break-card with your right hand and tossing them in a single block back on top of the deck portion still in your left hand. That move puts your stack on top of the deck. After a little practice, you can stack by using the undercut an entire five-card pat hand in fifteen seconds, complete with a concluding series of blind shuffles. The effectiveness of the undercut depends upon speed and rhythm. Your left thumb and fingers should not be too dry, and the cards cannot be too worn or they will tend to stick together and slide off the deck in blocks of two rather than one by one. You will soon be doing the undercut so rapidly that removal of the bottom cards becomes an invisible blur, giving the appearance of a legitimate overhand shuffle. But you can then slow down the subsequent blind shuffles for a reassuring effect. The mathematics of stacking hands for any number of players is simple: After getting the culled cards to the bottom of the deck and after simultaneously slipping off the top and bottom card from the deck, run off two less cards than the number of players from the top of the right hand portion of the deck onto the cards being stacked in the left hand. Repeat that process the same number of times as cards to be in your stacked hand. For example, repeat the process twice for a pair, three times for three of a kind, four times for four of a kind, and five times for a full house or other pat hands. When stacking for gin rummy or any two-handed game, simply continue to slip off the top and bottom cards together into the left hand, as many times as the number of cards to be stacked in your hand. Then pull off one more card, jut it, and blind shuffle. In all cases, however, begin with your culled hand on the bottom of the deck, stack the cards with the undercut, and conclude with convincing blind shuffles. b. Undercut Stacking Two Hands Simultaneously


Besides its simplicity, the undercut has another powerful advantage: Two hands can be stacked at the same time -- one for the Neocheater and one for his victim. Again the first step is culling. The dealer can, for example, use discard culling and the undercut to deal his victim -- preferably a heavily-winning or well-monied opponent -- a six-four low in lowball while dealing himself a five low. (Riffle culling two hands simultaneously is generally too cumbersome and time consuming.) And in high draw, the dealer may cull four jacks for his victim and four kings for himself while gathering discards. In such a case, the dealer maneuvers his four kings to the bottom of the deck and his opponent's four jacks to the top while culling. Or he may put both hands on top of the deck. In that case, his hand should lie above his opponent's hand, (e.g., the four kings above the four jacks [ 21 ]). Now to get his own hand to the bottom of the deck while avoiding excessive blind-shuffling maneuvers, he simply overhand shuffles his four kings, one by one in quick succession, off the top of the deck and slides them to the bottom of the deck. He now has the losing four jacks on the top of the deck and his winning four kings on the bottom of the deck. For two-handed poker, he holds the deck in his right hand for an overhand shuffle and simply pulls with the left thumb and middle finger the top card and the bottom card together simultaneously into his left hand, four times in succession. He then slides one more card from the deck onto the cards stacked in his left hand and juts that top card, completes a blind shuffle, and ends up with the two hands stacked on top of the deck. He can then false cut or foil the cut and proceed to annihilate his opponent: On being dealt four jacks, the victim will lick his lips in anticipation of draining every penny from his opponent, but instead he will be cleaned by the Neocheater. The undercut stacking maneuver is ideal for gin rummy and other two-handed games. If the Neocheater stacks two hands and if the deck is cut at the crimp, the victim is doomed. Now assume the Neocheater is playing seven-handed poker and has run four aces to the bottom of the deck and four queens to the top of the deck. How does he arrange his stack so he will get the four aces and, say, the third player from his left (a big winner or a monied fat-cat) will get the four queens? First, he simultaneously runs together with his left thumb and fingers the top card and the bottom card four times in a row from the deck in his right hand, just as if he were stacking for a two-handed game. Then he overhand shuffles the rest of the deck on top of those eight cards in the left hand. The interlaced aces and queens are now on the bottom of the deck ready for the final stack. Putting the deck back into his right hand and selecting his monied victim as the third player from his left, the Neocheater executes a two-step maneuver -- Step One: he again pulls off the top card and the bottom card of the deck together into the left hand, but then pulls two extra cards from the top of the deck onto those two cards. Step Two: he repeats the process of pulling the top and bottom cards from the deck plus an extra- card from the top and letting those three cards fall on top of the first four cards pulled from the deck in step one. 77

Each such shuffling maneuver moves seven cards and stacks the cards for one round of dealing to seven players with the stacked cards going to the dealer and the third player from his left. He executes that two-step shuffling maneuver a total of four times (the number of cards to be stacked in his hand) and slides the final extra card plus a break-card from his right hand onto the stack in his left hand. The break-card is jutted and used to execute a concluding blind shuffle. The third player will now receive the four queens and be relieved of his bankroll by the dealer who will receive the four aces. [ 22 ] Two limitations exist for the undercut when stacking two hands simultaneously: (1) In games with more than two players, the hand stacked for the victim cannot be dealt to the player directly on the dealer's left or right, regardless of how many players are in the game. And (2) the undercut cannot be used to stack two hands when only three players are in a game. . . . Except for two-handed games, undercut stacking always results in at least one non-stacked hand between any two stacked hands. Discard squaring described in Chapter III is the most convenient method to cull cards for the undercut. But any method or combination of methods for culling is practical as long as the Neocheater gets the hand he wants without being suspect. A Neocheater, of course, avoids suspicion by never using four of a kind, a full house, or even trips just played. Instead he would use, for example, a pair from one discarded hand and matching single cards from other hands to cull three or four of a kind. The undercut is ideal for lowball since hands previously played can be used directly because no one will remember the exact hands or suits of previously played hands. The Neocheater, however, will generally not use the undercut for stud-type games since faster and more efficient culling and stacking techniques exist for those games (such as the discard culling and stacking techniques described in Chapter III). Neocheaters always conclude undercut stacking (or any other stacking technique) with a series of blind shuffles or false riffles, often topped off with a false cut. [ 23 ]

Table 3 CARDS REQUIRED FOR CULLING AND STACKING One Hand Stacked --for Dealer -# Cards Stacked per Stacked Hand 2 players in game 1 2 3 4

Two Hands Stacked --for Dealer plus Victim --

# Cards Culled

# Cards in Stack

# Cards Culled

# Cards in Stack

1 2 3 4

2 4 6 8

2 4 6 8

2 4 6 8







3 players in game 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

3 6 9 12 15

2 4 6 8 10

3 6 9 12 15

4 players in game 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

4 8 12 16 20

2 4 6 8 10

4 8 12 16 20

5 players in game 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

5 10 15 20 25

2 4 6 8 10

5 10 15 20 25

6 players in game 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

6 12 18 24 30

2 4 6 8 10

6 12 18 24 30

7 players in game 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

7 14 21 28 35

2 4 6 8 10

7 14 21 28 35

8 players in game 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

8 16 24 32 40

2 4 6 8 10

8 16 24 32 40

Detecting the Undercut


Suspect any dealer who repeatedly runs single cards off the deck just prior to overhand shuffling.


· ·

By detection methods described in Chapter IV, look for blind shuffles, false riffles, or false cuts that must follow any undercut-stacking maneuver. The undercut can be done so swiftly that no one can see the top and bottom cards being pulled off individually, but the alert player can sometimes detect the snapping sound of cards being pulled together from the top and bottom of the deck. ***

Before proceeding to the next stacking technique, riffle culling must be examined in more detail: c. Riffle Culling Even in the strictest games with alert or fussy players, the Neocheater can usually cull a high pair and often three of a kind using one of the discard-gathering techniques taught in Chapter III. But assume he has been unable to cull a single card from the discards or no discards are available such as occurs when a new or different deck is brought into play. He must then work the deck cold in order to cull a favorable hand. One easy and effective method to cull directly from the deck is to use the riffle cull described below. As in the technique described in Chapter II for cutting aces, pick up the deck, and begin parting the deck by riffling through the cards with your thumb. Stop the moment you spot an ace, and let that ace drop. Now separate the deck so that the ace becomes the top card of the deck-portion in your left hand. Then riffle shuffle the two deck halves together, but retain the top ace with your left thumb and drop that ace last on top of the shuffled deck. Now riffle again and locate a second ace -- or other desired card -- and place it on top of the first culled ace with another false-riffle shuffle, controlling the deck halves with your thumbs so the second culled ace falls on top of the first ace without any unwanted cards falling between them. Repeat the process for the third and fourth card, or until you have culled your desired hand to the top of the deck, ready for stacking. With practice, you can riffle cull four aces to the top of the deck in less than twenty seconds. Four aces are merely an example. Actually you can riffle cull any desired cards or hands. A Neocheater, however, seldom relies solely on riffle culling for stacking full or big hands, although he could. Instead, he usually uses riffle culling as an auxiliary to discard culling. For example, if he is able to cull only one ace to the top of the deck while squaring the discards, he can then quite easily riffle cull a second and third ace on top of that first ace. Whether he tries to cull the fourth ace depends on how long he took to cull the previous two cards, on the location of the final ace (it may be too close to the top or bottom of the deck), and especially on his objective. (Neocheaters can but seldom need to stack themselves blatantly powerful hands.)


After culling your desired cards to the top of the deck, run those cards quickly to the bottom of the deck in one overhand shuffle and stack them with the undercut or one of the other stacking techniques described later in this chapter. A high pair can almost always be culled using discard squaring. One quick riffle cull should produce a third matching card in less than five seconds. After an hour's practice, you should be fairly adept at riffle culling. Remember always to keep the deck squared when riffle parting the deck so that the cards pass by individually, smoothly, and at the proper speed for quick selection. When working a deck cold, you should be able to cull a pair of aces to the top with two riffles. And starting with a pair of aces provides an enormous advantage in draw poker and an even greater advantage in stud games. A problem you will encounter when first practicing the riffle cull is flipping past your selected card by an extra card to leave an unwanted stranger on top of the culled card. If that happens, you have three options: First, when interlacing the parted deck portions, retain both top cards (your culled card and the unwanted card) with your left thumb and drop those two cards last on top of the deck. Then execute a quick, single card overhand shuffle to get rid of the extra card by simply pulling it off the top with your left thumb and slipping it beneath the deck. And against alert or sophisticated opponents, the removal of that top card can be camouflaged by a subsequent blind shuffle. Second, assume you have a pair of aces already culled on top of the deck and you have passed your third ace by one card while riffling through the deck. Just riffle shuffle that third ace right back into the deck, making certain the two aces in your right hand still fall last -- on top of the deck. Then make another attempt to cull that third ace during your next riffle. Or, third, as you will learn in Chapter VI, use a split-second cut that instantly gets rid of any extra cards on top of your stack. Spend thirty minutes practicing the riffle cull. See how fast you can get a pair and then three of a kind to the top of the deck. The riffle cull is a potent ally when used with discard culling. Also, riffle culling is the most practical method for culling a deck cold (or when discards are unavailable). But remember, Neocheaters keep their eyes in natural motion, glancing but never staring at the cards being riffled. Used with or without other culling techniques, the riffle cull is a valuable asset in the Neocheater's repertoire. With even a minimal mastery of the riffle cull, he can control cards in any deck under most circumstances.

Detecting the Riffle Cull



A good riffle culler is almost impossible to detect. A person usually must detect Neocheating in earlier stages such as during discard manipulation or in later stages such as during the blind shuffle or false cut. Watch for the dealer who habitually glances at the passing cards while riffle parting the deck. (Most players do that, but if a dealer never looks at the riffling cards, you can rule out the riffle cull.) Also watch for the dealer who extensively uses riffle shuffles while consistently dropping one, two, or three cards last on the deck from his left thumb.

Continuing now with the next stacking technique:

d. Overhand Stacking The Neocheater regularly uses the overhand stack to stack pairs and three of a kind with ease; but he seldom uses this technique to stack four of a kind, a full house, or other pat hands, unless he has already used discard stacking (described later) or the undercut to initially stack part of the hand -- such as a pair or three of a kind. Like many stacking methods, this technique is particularly effective when used in conjunction with other stacking techniques to build the desired stack. All Neocheating knowledge and skill is cumulative; the more the Neocheater knows, the more effective and resourceful he will be at the card table. If a Neocheater stacks a high pair using discard-stacking, he can easily overhand stack or riffle stack the third matching card and probably the fourth, if he wishes. Or, say someone tosses him discards that contain a pair that matches his stacked pair. He may use the overhand stack to add that pair to his stack, giving him four of a kind. In any case, suppose you begin with a culled pair of aces on top of the deck and want to stack the cards so those aces are dealt to you in a six-handed game. You can accomplish that in three quick moves by using the overhand stack: Move 1 -- Hold the deck in the left hand. From the lower portion, pull out about half the deck with the right hand. Then using your left thumb, rapidly slide five cards, one by one, from the right-hand portion onto the two culled aces in your left hand. (You are stacking for a six-handed game.) Then with your left thumb pull off one more card from the right-hand deck portion onto the left-hand deck portion and jut that card so it sticks out an eighth of an inch or so from the back end of the deck. That card is your break-card needed to blind shuffle. Next, overhand shuffle the rest of the right-hand portion on top of that break-card. Then complete your blind shuffle by pulling out all the cards below the break-card with the right hand and throwing them in a single block back on top of those cards still in your left hand. You now have five cards above your two aces on top of the deck. Move 2 -- Now transfer the entire deck to your right hand for an overhand shuffle. Rapidly pull off six cards, one by one, from the top of the deck with your left thumb and then, without hesitation, slide those cards back on top of the deck. Or more precisely: the right hand which holds the bulk of the deck simply moves forward, 82

sliding the deck behind those six cards in the left hand and repositioning those six cards (now in reverse order) back on top of the deck. The hardest part is now done: you have stacked your second ace. Next, allowing the deck to rest in the left hand with the right hand remaining around the deck, immediately make the next move to stack your first ace. Move 3 -- With your right hand, remove the lower half of the deck leaving the top half of the deck in your left hand. Then using your left thumb, rapidly slide (run off) five cards, one by one, from the cards in your right hand onto the top of the deck portion in your left hand. Immediately follow with a blind shuffle by sliding off one more card, jut it as your break-card, and overhand shuffle the rest of the right-hand portion of the deck onto the left-hand portion. Now complete the blind shuffle by pulling all the cards from beneath the break-card with the right hand and tossing them in a single block back on top of the cards still in your left hand. The pair of aces is now stacked to be dealt to you. With practice, the overhand stack becomes so rapid that the Neocheater often must execute a few extra blind shuffles or false riffles to make the deck appear thoroughly shuffled. The overhand stack is ideal for adding one card to a pair or three of a kind already stacked by either discard stacking or undercut stacking. For example, assuming the Neocheater has discard stacked a pair of queens for draw poker and has managed to get a third queen to the top of the deck, either through discard culling or riffle culling. [ 24 ] To stack that third queen, he removes the bottom half of the deck with his right hand for an overhand shuffle and simply runs off one card less than the number of players from the right-hand deck portion onto the cards in his left hand. He then runs off one more card, juts it, and completes a blind shuffle. He now has stacked three queens for himself. As you practice this technique, pause at each step to review the progressive journeys of the cards you are stacking so you can understand precisely what is happening to them. One drawback of the overhand stack is running the stacked cards off the top of the deck and then sliding them right back on top of the deck. But that move is camouflaged by promptly executing an overhand blind shuffle. And when your stack is complete, crown it with a few extra blind shuffles and a false cut to completely dissipate any suspicion. If you have practiced running the cards one at a time off the deck for the undercut, you will have little trouble with the overhand stack. When executed properly, both the undercut and the riffle stack (described later) are generally superior to the overhand technique. Yet, in some situations, the overhand stack is ideal. Most Neocheaters learn the overhand stack because of its simplicity. And they often use the technique to add one card or a pair to their stack. With only an hour or two of practice, the overhand stack can be executed with relative ease and rapidity. 83

While it is possible to stack three or four of a kind using the overhand stack, Neocheaters seldom do. Stacking such hands is usually more effectively done by combining the overhand stack with either the undercut or the riffle stack. Neocheating stacking techniques rely on flexibility and improvisation. Indeed, Neocheaters usually combine or overlap various techniques for the easiest, safest, and most effective results. So the more familiar the Neocheater is with the different techniques, the more effectively will he drain opponents. Most Neocheaters master the overhand technique for stacking at least a pair, especially since the technique is so convenient when combined with discard stacking or riffle stacking (described later). And the overhand technique is particularly effective for stacking two or three of a kind when combined with riffle culling. Still at times, the Neocheater finds it easier to simply discard stack his entire hand, thus avoiding all shuffle-stacking techniques.

Detecting the Overhand Stack · · ·

Watch for the dealer who runs individual cards off the deck after parting it or prior to overhand shuffles. Especially watch for the dealer who runs a few cards off the top of a deck and then slides the deck behind those cards. That is a big giveaway. Watch for blind-shuffle and false-cut maneuvers following an overhand shuffle.

e. Knowing Everyone's Hole Card What if you are playing five-card stud and want to use either the undercut stack or the overhand stack to deal yourself kings back-to-back, plus you want to know everyone's hole card? As explained in Chapter III, that is easy to accomplish when using discard stacking. But neither undercut stacking nor overhand stacking offers opportunities to glance at the cards as they are being stacked. So, how do you get to know everyone's hole card without discard stacking? Assume you have stacked yourself a pair of kings for a six-handed game of five-card stud by using either undercut stacking or overhand stacking. Now to learn everyone's hole cards, simply execute a false riffle in the following manner: Part the stacked deck for a riffle shuffle. Now execute a false riffle, remembering to protect your stack as an undisturbed block of fifteen cards or so by riffling the left-hand portion more rapidly than those cards in the right hand, dropping the stack in a single block just prior to dropping the last card -- the single card retained by your left thumb. But, as you finish the riffle, instead of dropping your stack in a single block, riffle those cards with your right thumb. Then slow the riffling motion for the last six or seven cards while bending those cards with your thumb just far enough to read their values as they fall in succession. [ 25 ] Remember the values of the last five cards above your stacked king. (That slow riffling action is easy to control and takes only a few minutes of practice to learn.) You then drop the single card retained by your left thumb last, having memorized the sequence of those five cards above your 84

first stacked king. To get rid of that extra top card, you can simply slip it to the bottom of the deck and avoid suspicion with a subsequent blind shuffle. Now the top five memorized cards will be your opponents' hole cards. If, for example, when you spotted your king during the riffle and then memorized the next five cards as say 4-Q-9-J-7, then the player to your right will receive the 4 and, counterclockwise, the next player will receive the Queen, the next player a 9 and so on. ... You will have given yourself a tremendous advantage, not only by dealing yourself a wired pair of kings, but by knowing everyone's hole cards.

f. Riffle Stacking If you have practiced riffle culling and can perform the false riffle with any degree of smoothness, then you already know the moves required for riffle stacking. For example, look again at Figure 2 on page 26. Notice that four cards are retained by the right thumb while the single ace is retained by the left thumb. That picture suggests a shortcut method for stacking your first ace: Instead of dropping that ace last, drop it first and then drop the four cards from the right thumb on top of the ace and, presto, that ace is stacked for you in a five-handed game. In other words, the first ace has been culled in one riffle and the right thumb simply retains and then releases four cards on top of the ace in order to stack it for a five-handed game. Each additional ace or card to be stacked for the dealer's hand must be culled and singly passed to the top. Then as explained in Step 1 below, the left thumb subsequently builds the stack by releasing the required number of cards on top of each card culled to the top of the deck. Beginning with a completely shuffled deck, you can riffle stack aces back-to-back for yourself in stud poker while knowing what every opponent has in the hole by taking the following two steps: Step 1 --Place the deck in your right hand. Using your right thumb, riffle the deck until you spot an ace. Let that ace drop and immediately stop riffling. Then pass that lower portion of the deck with the ace on top into your left hand; and as in Chapter II when culling an ace, riffle shuffle the left and right hand cards together, but retain the ace with the left thumb in order to drop that card last on top of the deck. Again part the deck by taking the top portion into your right hand and passing the lower portion into your left hand for another riffle shuffle. But do not cull another ace yet. Instead, execute a false riffle; and with your left thumb retain and drop at least two, preferably three or four cards on top of your ace. Begin practice by retaining and dropping only two cards at a time from your left thumb. Practice until you can easily drop with accurate control four or more cards on top of your ace. Suppose you cull an ace. Execute two false riffles while each time dropping on that ace two cards retained by your left thumb. You then will have four cards on top of your first ace. If you are playing in a five-handed game, your first card is stacked. If more than five are playing, you must drop the required number of additional cards on top of the ace so that it will be dealt to you. 85

Although your first riffle-stacking attempts may be awkward, you can with an hour or two of practice do the riffle stack with relative speed and ease. Keep in mind that you are essentially executing a false riffle but striving to get more than one card on top of the stack with each riffle shuffle. Quickly square the edges of the deck with your thumbs and fingers before each riffle for better control. Step 2 -- Cull your second ace exactly as you did your first, retaining it in your left thumb while protecting your stack with a false riffle. Drop that second ace on top of your stack as the last card. Should you fail to cull a second ace during that riffle, simply execute a false riffle which will leave an extra card on top of your stack. For now, remove that card with a blind shuffle. In the next chapter, you will learn an easier method to remove extra cards accumulated during false riffles. After culling your second ace, you must riffle the required number of cards on top of that ace to stack it while protecting your first stacked ace. Proceed with the same method used to stack your first ace by riffle shuffling the proper number of cards onto that second ace while protecting the stack. But when playing stud, remember to bend the top cards upward with your left thumb [ 26 ] in order to briefly glance at and remember their sequence while riffling them onto the stack above your second ace. By remembering those cards, you will know everyone's hole card in addition to dealing yourself a pair of aces. Remembering opponents' hole cards is easy: Assume a six-handed game of five-card stud in which you have already stacked your first ace and culled your second ace on top of those stacked cards. Now with your next riffle, say you drop two cards on top of your stack while bending those cards slightly upward with your thumb and noticing they are, for example, a jack and a four. Your mind registers J-4. You riffle again dropping two more cards onto your stack while observing they are a king and a ten. Your mind registers K-10-J-4. Another riffle and you drop a single card, a nine, to complete your stack. Now you know the other players' hole cards will read clockwise 9-K-10-J-4 around the table, and you will be dealt aces back-to-back. ... For seven-card stud or hold'em, execute the riffling process twice while remembering both sets of cards stacked above each ace. You will then know both hole cards of each opponent. Your thumb will gradually become accustomed to retaining and controlling batches of three and four cards to be dropped on your stack while mentally counting them (and, when advantageous, remembering them). Your goal is to smoothly cull and accurately stack with a minimum number of riffle shuffles. You can cull and stack four of a kind or pat hands with riffle stacking. But usually stacking such hands is easier done by combining the riffle stack with other stacking techniques. For example, the riffle stack is especially convenient for adding the third or the fourth-of-a-kind card to a pair or three of a kind already culled and stacked from the discards.


Still, the riffle stack alone is often ideal for five-card stud, seven-card stud, and hold'em since you can cull and stack a high pair for yourself while knowing everyone's hole card (or cards) in fifteen seconds or less. In draw poker, however, using the riffle stack alone to stack four of a kind or a pat hand is generally not as easy or practical as using a combination of other stacking techniques. Another stacking variation consists of initially culling all your cards in consecutive riffles. This method gets the culling out of the way first. For example, cull two kings, then proceed to stack them by retaining the top king with your right thumb and injecting the required number of cards between the top and second king with a couple of riffles. When that move is completed, riffle shuffle the required number of cards on top of your second king to complete the stack. Neocheaters normally avoid the repetition and time required to riffle stack three or more cards by combining two or more culling and stacking techniques. (See Combination St acking later in this chapter.) Various combinations can provide safer, easier, and faster routes to stacking four or five cards. As pointed out in Chapter XI, however, the pure Neocheater finds maximum advantages in the simplest and easiest maneuvers -- he seldom has to stack more than one or two cards for himself. And often he does not stack any cards for himself, but simply remembers his opponents' hole cards while riffling (or he simply follows what-to-do signals from a colluding dealer, especially from a colluding house dealer in a casino) to gain unbeatable advantages.

Detecting the Riffle Stack · · ·

Watch for the symptoms of false riffles as described in Chapter IV. Watch for the dealer who consistently uses his left thumb to retain one to five cards that are dropped on the deck last after interlacing all the other cards. Watch for the dealer who squares the deck before each riffle.

g. The Las Vegas Variation As a refinement of the riffle stack, the Las Vegas variation uses the same principles learned so far, but the position of the hands while culling and riffling is different. For culling, the thumbs riffle and split the deck along the sides of the cards, as shown in Figure 20, instead of at their ends. This method of culling has the advantage of concealing all the moves from opponents with your hands and fingers. Also, after several hours of practice, the Las Vegas variation cull becomes faster and smoother than the regular riffle cull. Note the position of both thumbs in Figure 20; the moment the culled ace drops to the top of the lower deck half the left thumb is ready to split the deck. Then the two deck portions can be promptly riffle shuffled together while keeping the culled ace on top.


Figure 20 Riffling and Splitting the Deck at the Sides in the Las Vegas Variation With the Las Vegas variation, the cards are completely shielded by the fingers of both hands while being stacked as the deck lies flat on the table (see Figure 21). After interlacing, the split deck portions are then pushed together and squared with the palms of both hands. Because the cards are shielded, the riffling process can be slowed not only for greater accuracy while culling and stacking but for greater ease while memorizing the value and sequence of everyone's hole cards.

Figure 21 Shielding the Deck from Opponents with the Las Vegas Variation The Las Vegas variation works especially well for false riffling. Because of the shield created by the hands and fingers, you can easily keep two-thirds of the deck intact without suspicion. Experiment for awhile with this variation to see if you prefer it to the regular riffle stack and false riffle. Switching over to the Las Vegas variation requires several hours of practice, but the technique will look smoother and offers more flexibility and control over the deck. The advantage of the Las Vegas variation ironically produces its only disadvantage: ostensibly the cards are shielded to keep them from flashing -- that is why dealers in casinos commonly use this variation. In naive company, however, or in neighborhood games, the Las Vegas variation may appear too expert or professional, and the shielding may appear to be done for questionable purposes. (Which it is!)


Against such opponents, the regular false riffle and riffle stack may be preferable because their maneuvers appear more amateurish, open, and natural.

Detecting the Las Vegas Variation ·

· · ·

Culling and stacking by the Las Vegas variation is harder to detect than other culling and stacking methods. But, while this riffling method is extensively used by honest casino dealers, private players rarely hold and riffle the cards by their sides unless they are manipulating or peeking at the cards. So be suspicious of dealers (even certain casino dealers) who shield the cards and riffle them along their sides instead of at their ends. Be suspicious of a dealer who squares the side of a deck just before another player cuts it. Be especially suspicious of any dealer offering a crimped or gapped deck. Watch for other suspicious moves by any dealer who glances at the cards when riffling. (Most honest players also glance at the cards while riffling and shuffling; so if a dealer never glances at the riffling cards, he is neither cheating nor Neocheating--at least while riffling.)

h. The Intermediate-Stacking Variation The intermediate-stacking variation is an abbreviated, faster version of the Las Vegas variation used for both false riffling and stacking. In both variations, the cards are culled along their sides as shown in Figure 20. But instead of placing the two deck halves flat on the table for riffling, the dealer holds the cards in his hands above the table and riffles them at an angle as shown in Figure 22. Otherwise, the stacking movements are the same as in the Las Vegas variation. And after the riffle shuffle by either variation, the deck halves are pushed together and squared with the palms of both hands.

Figure 22 Shuffling Cards at an Angle for Speed in the Intermediate-Stacking Variation While the shielding is less than in the Las Vegas variation, the advantage of the intermediate variation is its increased speed for culling and stacking cards. With a dozen or so hours of practice, rapid culling and stacking can be executed by using


the intermediate variation. The action is fast, but remember that the sides of the deck must be smoothly squared after each riffle so the thumbs can effectively control individual cards when culling and stacking. Some Neocheaters prefer this variation, especially for stacking high pairs in stud or hold'em. And, of course, casino dealers who collusion cheat almost always use one of the two variations when manipulating or peeking at the cards.

Detecting the Intermediate-Stacking Variation ·

Use the same methods for detecting the Las Vegas variation as described on page 92.

i. Combination Stacking Combination stacking involves switching from one technique to another while stacking the deck. For example, if someone discards two pair, you can get them to the bottom in one overhand shuffle, stack them with the undercut, and then riffle cull another matching card to the top of the already stacked cards. Next, you can use either the riffle stack or an overhand blind shuffle to add the required number of cards to properly position that fifth card into the stack. Then, after a false cut or foiling your opponent's cut, you will automatically deal yourself a pat full house. Or, if you have managed to stack an ace, deuce, and trey for lowball from the discards, you can riffle cull a four and a five or a joker in two consecutive riffle shuffles and use the overhand stack to position those two final cards so your stack will provide you with a pat wheel. The stacking combinations are limitless. But even if you can perform nothing more than the preliminary stacking techniques described in Chapter III plus the blind shuffle, the false riffle, and the false cut described in Chapter IV, you will possess formidable power for draining money from almost any game or opponent.

Detecting Combination Stacking ·

Review the detection methods described for each culling and stacking technique in this chapter. In order to detect or even suspect a Neocheater, you must be aware of one or more of his specific techniques (e.g., discard stacking, crimping, false riffling, blind shuffling, false cutting, foiling the cut).

j. Stacking for Blackjack (or Twenty-One) Any simple culling or stacking technique that applies to stud poker, applies nicely to blackjack. The requirements for blackjack -- an ace with any picture card or ten -- are simple to stack. Blackjack is, in fact, the easiest card game to stack. Remember to add one extra card to your stack for "burying" or "burning" (discarding the top card or placing the top card of the deck face up on the bottom of the deck before dealing).


k. Neocheating for Bridge A technique for dealing grand slams in bridge is described in Chapter VIII. The technique involves a unique false riffle (called the Complete False Riffle, also known as the Pull-Through) that is used in poker and other card games as well as in bridge. During that riffle, every card of the deck is kept intact while seemingly being shuffled with complete thoroughness.

2. Detecting and Defending Against All Stacking. · · · ·

Review detection techniques for blind shuffles, false riffles, and false cuts in Chapter IV, pages 62, 64, and 70. Review the nine methods listed in Table I on page 6 for methods to eliminate cheating or cheaters. Insist on cutting the deck whenever the cheater or Neocheater deals, and then ruin his stack with deliberately thorough cuts. Sit to the Neocheater's right and carefully cut at the crimp plus one extra card. You will then be dealt the stacked hand intended for the dealer. But beware of the extra alert Neocheater who will adjust the stack so when you cut one extra card you will set yourself up for a bankrupting loss.


[ 19 ] As identified in Chapter XI, the Neocheater can easily, but will seldom, stack himself powerful, sure-thing hands. He makes much more money over the long term by creating more modest but consistent advantages that do not arouse suspicions or resentments

[ 20 ] A moment before you jut the break-card, you may need to square the stacked cards in your left hand by quickly tapping the rear of those cards with your right little finger.

[ 21 ] If during the culling, the four jacks end above the four kings, the dealer reverses their order by simply overhand shuffling those eight cards one by one off the top, then pulling off one more card, jutting it, and blind shuffling to leave those eight cards back on top with his four kings now above his victim's four jacks

[ 22 ] To deal the four queens to the second (instead of the third) player on his left, the dealer pulls off the top and bottom cards plus three extra cards for the first half of


the stacking maneuver; he then pulls off the top and bottom cards with no extra cards to complete the stacking for the first round of dealing. After all the cards are stacked, he pulls off only a break-card for blind shuffling. Now, if the victim is the fourth player from his left, the dealer pulls off one extra card for the first step of the maneuver and two extra cards for the second step. The formula for figuring the extra cards pulled off for step one is: [# of players] - [# of players from dealer's left + 2]. And for step two: [# of players] - [# of extra cards in step one + 4]. Realizing that cards pulled from the deck during stacking are in reverse order than when they are dealt will help you visualize exactly how the undercut works. ... And do not fret if the mathematics of stacking seem complicated. It is simple arithmetic. When practicing the stacking maneuvers, continually try different combinations for various numbers of players in various positions and the arithmetic of stacking will quickly become routine.

[ 23 ] Table 3 on page 81 shows the number of cards involved in culling and stacking various hands according to the number of players in the game. As Table 3 indicates, when stacking more than three cards in games with over six players, the stack becomes rather unwieldy for convenient manipulation.

[ 24 ] When riffle culling a partially stacked deck, the dealer must consciously protect that stacked portion by not culling a card too high in the deck. He must also protect his stack when false riffling the deck halves together.

[ 25 ] While interlacing the cards, hold the two deck portions in a sharp V formation in order to see the value of the cards flash at their outer corners as they riffle from the right thumb. Or still better, whenever you want to read the cards, reverse the parting procedure so the left hand removes the top portion of the deck containing the stack. Then the stack win be riffled by the left thumb with the corner designs directly facing you. From that position, the values of the cards are more visible, easier to read, and can be flashed with less suspicion.

[ 26 ] Whenever possible, arrange for your left hand and thumb to riffle cards to be glanced at and memorized. When riffled from the left hand, the designs on the card corners are on the inside facing the dealer and are, therefore, easier to see and read. If riffled from the right thumb, you must position the two deck halves in a V formation in order to see the card designs flashing by on the outside corners.


Chapter VI FALSE CUTTING -- THE EASY WAY Suppose you are playing stud poker, and the player on your left seems to be winning too consistently whenever he deals. But the deck seems free of marks or gaffs; he is not using a shiner; and after careful observation you conclude that he is using Neocheating techniques to stack the deck. Moreover, you have been unconsciously cutting at his crimp. Yet, you cannot actually see him cheat. What should you do? First, you could openly accuse him of cheating. But since you have no direct proof, accusing him may be the worst option. If, for example, you publicly revealed his subtle techniques, you could become suspect as being "too knowledgeable about cheating", thus tainting your reputation and perhaps even threatening your tenure in that game, especially if you are a consistent winner. Also, accusing the cheater could be risky, especially if you do not know how he will react. He may try to deflect the accusation by acrimoniously accusing you of cheating. Or he may try to bury the accusation by attacking you (even physically attacking you) for "questioning his honesty" or "besmirching his reputation". ... Accusing anyone of cheating without direct proof is risky business. A player using Neocheating techniques to stack the deck is always safe --you cannot catch him in the act or prove his cheating. You may not like the way someone shuffles or riffles, or the way he cuts the deck, but that is his individual prerogative and cannot be the basis for an accusation. In fact, when it comes to shuffling and dealing, many innocent players look far more suspicious than most cheaters. A Neocheater's movements are natural; his methods are designed to allay suspicion. Moreover, many impeccably honest and experienced cardplayers know nothing about stacking or crimping, yet they shuffle and riffle the cards with very suspicious maneuvers: clumsily squaring the deck with the cards flat on the table facing them, shuffling the deck with mechanical and laborious motions, sifting awkwardly through discards, even riffling the cards face up. A better move against the Neocheater is simply to miss his crimp by inconsistently cutting the deck extremely high or low. (For defense or counterattack purposes, try to sit on the immediate right of a suspected cheater so you can control the cut.) That would ensure a fair game and cause mounting frustration for the cheater, who would sooner or later realize the futility of further stacking. You could also destroy his stack by pulling a block of cards from the center of the deck, placing those cards on top, and then executing a regular cut. Missing the crimp by purposely cutting very high or very low has a cat-and-mouse effect since the cheater will not be certain that you suspect him. Initially at least, he will probably classify you as one of those annoyingly erratic types who cannot


decide where to cut next. He may try to change seats. Or he may simply give up his stacking efforts as long as you remain seated on his right. Leaving the game is another way of responding to cheating. In fact, most "authorities" on cheating advise that the best course is to promptly leave any game in which you suspect or detect cheating. Following that advice is generally the least profitable route. Although in a few situations such as identified in Chapter I and XI, leaving is the only choice. But usually such action is unnecessary since the cheater can almost always be foiled and often be soundly beaten. The above example of foiling the cheater is the simplest way to counter him. Below is a more profitable way to counter him. And Part Two of this book (DEFENSES AND COUNTERATTACKS) presents a full array of techniques designed to nullify, counter, and beat all cheaters.

1. False Cutting the Neocheating Way. a. The Special Cut (The One-Card Cut) With the special cut you can turn a cheater's stacking efforts to your advantage. Sit to the immediate right of the suspected cheater and deliberately cut at the crimp, restoring the deck to his stack. But then give the deck an additional, rapid single-card cut (the special cut), and you will get the dealer's stacked hand. The cheating dealer may not know exactly what you have done. And since the special cut looks like a normal center cut when executed swiftly, he will assume his stack was destroyed during that extra cut. The cheater will then be surprised and confused when you get his stacked hand. But because he knows that you did originally cut at or near his crimp, he will probably doggedly stack the deck another time or two until he realizes that you are not only aware of his cheating, but are taking advantage of him. At that point, he may leave the game, frustrated and outsmarted. But beware of the extra alert cheater who knows the special cut. If he anticipates a repeat of that one-card cut the next time he deals, he can simply set you up for a big loss by adjusting his stack so you will cut yourself powerful cards while leaving him or a collusion partner with even more powerful cards. The special cut is easy and takes about an hour of practice to perform smoothly. The major function of the cut is to remove the top card from the stack, while leaving the rest of the stack intact on top of the deck. Thus if you are sitting to the right of the dealer and remove the top card from his stack, you will receive any hand that he has stacked for himself. Also, the special cut is ideal for removing an extra card from your own stack -- such as removing the extra card placed there by a false riffle (as described on page 88). Moreover, the special cut is an excellent follow-up to the false riffle and is much faster than blind shuffles that are normally used to remove extra cards.


To perform the special one-card cut, first pick up the deck with your left hand. Then referring to Figure 23, use both hands to grasp the deck. Grasp each end between the thumbs and middle and ring fingers. The forefingers (index fingers) of each hand are positioned on the top card, but the left finger presses firmly down, while the right forefinger rests loosely. Also the left ring finger grips the bottom half of the deck while the left middle finger is held loosely.

Figure 23 Getting Rid of the Extra Top Card (The One-Card False Cut) Now, grasping the upper half of the deck with the right middle finger and thumb, smoothly pull that portion of the deck out with a straight sliding motion as the left forefinger exerts pressure to hold back the top card as shown in Figure 23. Now drop the left-hand portion of the deck with that retained top card onto the table and complete the cut by slapping the right hand cards gently on top of those just dropped on the table. Then square the deck. Rapidly executed, the special cut gives the appearance of a normal center cut. When practicing the special cut, note that the deck is gripped by the left hand at the bottom half mainly with the thumb and left ring finger. With the right hand, tilt the block of cards slightly upward while pulling them from beneath the single top card retained by the left forefinger. The right forefinger should exert no pressure against the top card so as not to hinder its retention in the left hand. When using this cut for your own stack (e.g., to get rid of an extra top card left there by a false riffle), keep in mind the number of cards in your stack. If, for example, you have stacked a pat hand in a six-handed game, you must then control the top thirty cards of the deck by pulling out at least thirty cards with your right hand (or else the top card of the deck retained by your left forefinger will end up in the stacked portion, damaging the stack). But normally, unless you are stacking pat hands, you can routinely pull out about half the deck without disturbing the stack when executing the special cut.

b. The Four-Block Cut


The next false cut looks incredibly thorough, but leaves the stack completely intact and is nothing more than an elaborate extension of the basic false cut taught in Chapter IV. To help visualize the finger positions for this cut, refer to Figure 24 which shows the four-block cut in its final stages. Begin practicing this cut by first holding the full deck with your left two center fingers and thumb along the sides, near the end. Hold the left forefinger out slightly, not touching the cards. Next, grasp about a fourth of the deck from the bottom with your right forefinger and thumb, pull out that block of cards and place it over the top of the deck -- but continue holding the right-hand end of those cards about a quarter of an inch above the deck. Now separate (roughly in half) the lower block of cards in your left hand by parting your left middle and ring fingers about a half an inch. The side of the deck gripped by your left thumb will remain solidly together.

Figure 24 Separating Cards During the Four-Block False Cut Then your right middle finger (or ring finger, if easier) and your right thumb dip down and seize about half of that bottom, split portion of the deck. But at the same time, your right thumb and index finger retain their grip on the topmost block of cards. As shown in Figure 24, the right thumb and middle finger then partially withdraw (about two inches) that lower block of cards along with the upper block. At that juncture, each hand holds two separate blocks of cards, parted but not completely separated from the deck (as shown in Figure 24). Both hands now tilt upward slightly and the right index finger and thumb release only the top block of cards as both hands part to let that top block fall through to the table. (This upward V-angled parting motion is similar to that used in the basic threeblock false cut described on page 66.) Now drop the bottom block of cards in the left hand on top of those cards on the table. Then drop the remaining block of cards in the right hand, and finally drop the last block of cards still in the left hand as shown in Figure 25. ... Your stack remains on top, completely intact despite an incredibly thorough-looking cut.


Figure 25 Completing the Four-Block False Cut Like many Neocheating maneuvers, the description seems much more intricate than the actual execution. The entire four-block false cut takes no more than five or six seconds to execute, even when done without haste. The moves are relatively easy to execute, especially if you have practiced the three-block cut described in Chapter IV. And, as in that three-block cut, the first step of bringing the bottom portion of cards to the top is performed faster than the subsequent card-dropping steps. After an hour or two of practice, you will be executing the four-block cut smoothly. And if you decide to master this cut, you will develop a nimbleness in your fingers that will be valuable for executing almost any card-manipulation technique. The intricate-appearing, four-block false cut adds a convincing finality to any stacking procedure. But against certain opponents (e.g., against very naive or against very savvy opponents), extra thorough or elaborate cuts may actually increase suspicion. In such cases, a simpler or more straight forward cut is best. The next false cut is neither as complex nor as flourishing as the one above. Instead, the cut has a crisp businesslike appearance and is worth mastering for both its simplicity and efficacy.

c. The Basic Workhorse Cut Lift the deck from the table and grasp the cards with both hands by placing the thumbs and middle fingers along the sides at each end and resting the forefingers lightly on top. Next, create a slender gap along the inner side of the deck (as shown in Figure 26-A) by pushing down (crimping) the right inside corners of the bottom few cards with your right thumb; and then with your right thumb and middle finger pull out about half of the lower deck and place that crimped portion on top of the other deck half. The exposed side of the deck facing opponents should be even, with no visible gaps. The right fingers shield the gap on the right end, and the right forefinger pressing down on top of the deck keeps the gap from being visible along the inside edge and on the left end.


Figure 26 A. The Gap During the False Cut B. Pulling Off Small Blocks of Cards With the left thumb and middle finger, proceed with a series of shallow cuts by pulling small blocks of cards from the top and placing them one above the other on the table as shown in Figure 26-B. When you approach the gap let it open wider by releasing the pressure from your right forefinger (which has been pressing down on top of the deck) -- with the wider gap you can more easily and accurately hit your crimp. Continue pulling off small blocks of cards up to that crimp. Then with an air of finality slap the remaining entire block of cards on top of those already on the table. ... Your stack now sits undisturbed on top. Square the deck on the table with your thumbs and fingers. In thirty minutes to an hour, you should be able to execute this basic false cut with speed and smoothness. The series of small-block cuts should be fairly rapid and without hesitation, especially when you reach the gap. The basic workhorse cut is popular among clever mechanics and, for the Neocheater, is well worth mastering. Also, this false cut can preserve a bottom cull or stack by making the first cut up to the gap, followed by a series of small-block cuts with the remainder of the deck.

2. Detecting and Defending Against False Cutting. Detect false cuts by: · ·

Watching for the same block of cards consistently ending on top of the deck. Being suspicious of fancy cuts, extra thorough-looking cuts, and quick multiway cuts. Also watch for simple crimp cuts.

Defend against false cuts by: · ·

Using the methods described at the beginning of this chapter to foil the cheater's cut or to get his stacked hand. Using the defenses against blind shuffling as described on page 62.



Chapter VII PEEKING AND COLLUDING -- THE SAFE WAY 1. Peeking the Neocheating Way. Peeking -- seeing a card in the deck while dealing -- without making any suspicious movements is easy to master and can be worth a fortune. In fact, certain peeking maneuvers are so easy and invisible that they are Neocheating. Peeking can be an especially useful Neocheating tool for stud poker and blackjack. And knowing (by an invisible peek) the last card dealt to an opponent in lowball offers a crushing advantage. Even in gin rummy, a Neocheater can through an invisible peek always know the next card to be drawn from the deck by his opponent.

a. Stud and Blackjack Peek The first peeking technique is particularly suited for stud and blackjack (but is also useful for draw poker, especially lowball). Suppose the Neocheater is dealing sevencard stud, and only he and one other player are left in the action. One face-down card remains to be dealt. The Neocheater's opponent has raised, probably on three fours plus a four-card flush. The Neocheater must now drop, call, or reraise. With three wired aces, he has his opponent beaten, but could be destroyed if that opponent improves on the next card. To know the next card, the Neocheater simply grips the deck in his left hand as he normally would when dealing -- his index finger curled across the top edge, his three fingers wrapped around the bottom, and his thumb across the top card. With understandable caution, the Neocheater then decides to "recheck his hole cards". To help camouflage his peek, he may check his two hole cards one at a time -- not peeking while checking his first hole card. But as he lifts his second hole card with his right thumb and index finger, his left hand moves in (ostensibly to prevent opponents from seeing his hole card). During that shielding process, the dealer inverts the deck in a casual and normal manner as shown in Figure 27. Now with the top of the deck concealed from everyone's view except the dealer's, his left thumb slides back slightly and then pushes forward on the top card to warp that card just enough to see its value in the upper corner. Immediately, his left thumb releases the pressure, and he casually brings the deck face down again while simultaneously releasing the hole card from his right thumb.


Figure 27 Stud and Blackjack, Top-Card Peek In private blackjack, the dealer follows the same procedure to peek at the hit card to be dealt to himself as he checks his hole card or cards. (This peek is not practical for casino 21 because the dealer hits himself according to fixed rules.) The peek is done without hesitation or hurry. With both hands synchronized, it takes only a few minutes of practice to execute smoothly. When inverting the deck, arrange your finger and hand positions as shown in Figure 27 to completely shield the peek. Ironically, during this natural-appearing move, the most an opponent might object to or worry about is someone seeing the relatively insignificant bottom card flash (without ever realizing that the dealer is simultaneously peeking at the crucial top card). To avoid that objection, simply hold together your left fingers that are wrapped around the bottom card to completely conceal it. But the Neocheater may purposely expose that bottom card to the other players in order to diabolically distract them by letting them think that they are gaining a sneaky advantage over the dealer (since he cannot see the bottom card from his angle).

b. Stud-Peek Variation #2 An alternative peeking technique designed for stud poker is illustrated in Figure 28. As the top card is turned over while being dealt, the dealer holds that card in his right hand momentarily over the top of the deck while announcing the card's value. As shown in Figure 28, that card provides a shield for the peek. And that peek is especially effective when only one opponent remains because that peeked-at card will be dealt to him on the next round.


Figure 28 Stud Peek Variation #2

c. Stud-Peek Variation #3 This peek differs from the previous two peeking techniques in that the bottom corner rather than the top corner of the top card is read. Figure 29 shows the position of the deck for this peek variation. The dealer holds the deck well down in the left palm with the middle finger meeting the right corner and with the left thumb resting parallel across the top. He wedges the upper left edge of the deck tightly against the fleshy base of the thumb. His left thumb then reaches slightly forward (across the top card) and slides back that top card so it can be read as shown in Figure 29. After the peek, a push with the base of the thumb quickly moves that top card back into normal position for dealing. As with peek variation #2 the dealer does not have to feign looking at his hole cards to execute this peek. He peeks in conjunction with any natural movement that momentarily conceals the deck, such as when putting chips into the pot with the right hand while peeking with the left hand (as shown in Figure 29) or when counting chips or bills with the right hand. Some peekers keep an ashtray to the front and left of their chips and peek while using the right arm as a cover when putting out a cigarette or flicking ashes. ... Neocheaters always glance, never stare when peeking. And they expose only enough of the card to glimpse its value.

Figure 29 Stud Peek Variation #3

d. Bottom-Card Peek The bottom-card peek is easy. The deck is held in the left hand. The right hand then comes over to either square the deck or put it on the table. As the right fingers grip the top of the deck, the left index finger slips beneath the deck. The first joint of the left index finger then presses against the bottom card and slides it out about a half inch from the rear of the deck. Immediately the right thumb grips that bottom card and bends it up, flattening it against the rear of the deck (as shown in Figure 30) so the card can be quickly read. The entire move can be done in one or two seconds. The


moment the card is read, it is released and the left index finger pulls the card forward, square against the deck again.

Figure 30 Bottom-Card Peek Variation A player does not have to be a bottom dealer to take advantage of this peek. Simply knowing that bottom card can give him a slight edge and at times a very important edge, especially in stud poker.

e. Gin-Rummy Peek The gin-rummy peek is used in rummy games or in any game in which cards are drawn off a deck that sits on the table. The dealer's right center finger slides the top card towards him with just enough pressure to drag the second card out slightly over the edge of the deck. The right thumb then lifts both cards at the same time as shown in Figure 31. Immediately after glimpsing at the second card, the forefinger quickly flattens both cards down again before removing the top card from the deck. With a little practice, this maneuver is invisible and undetectable.

Figure 31 Gin-Rummy, Second-Card Peek

2. Colluding the Neocheating Way. Neocheating is a concept -- a concept of safe and easy cheating . Actually, any cheating technique including any traditional or classical technique that is safe and


easy is Neocheating. Even collusion cheating becomes Neocheating when it delivers safe and easy advantages. In fact, one of the ultimate Neocheating ploys involves collusion. [ 27 ] That collusion ploy is one of the subtlest and most potent of all cheating techniques. The anecdotes in the first chapter show two examples in which John Finn encounters collusion Neocheating in stud and hold 'em poker in public casinos. Even with all his poker expertise, John cannot beat that kind of cheating. Such collusion Neocheating involves a dealer who casually remembers the sequence of gathered cards. He then blind shuffles and false riffles those cards. Thus after dealing, he knows everyone's hole cards and proceeds to signal the appropriate moves (bets, raises, folds, calls) to his partner. With those instructions from an allknowing dealer, the partner gains natural-appearing but unbeatable advantages. ... The dealer in effect makes his partner function as a super good player who plays flawlessly by "reading every hand perfectly". Moreover, by being totally indifferent to the fall of the cards, the Neocheating partner cannot be read. To beat that kind of collusion Neocheating, a player would have to know what the dealer knows (i.e., everyone's hole cards) through perfect reading of all opponents. But unfortunately, perfect reading of all opponents is not possible. Collusion Neocheating flourishes in casino poker because the house dealer totally controls the cards and deals every hand -- no player ever touches or cuts the deck. (Ironically, one reason casinos employ poker dealers is to prevent cheating.) Recently, a similar form of potent Neocheating has begun penetrating private games. In private games, however, the Neocheater does not need a partner. He simply learns (by methods described in previous chapters) and remembers all opponents' hole cards during his deal. While unlike the casino dealer and his partner who have their collusion advantages available for every hand, the Neocheater's advantages in private poker are available only once every round --during his deal. Still, that advantage is sufficient to generate unbeatable long-range advantages in most games. And most importantly, that Neocheater cannot be caught because he not only never needs to use tell-tale devices or gaffs, but he never even needs to stack the cards. In fact, no direct evidence is ever available for accusing him of cheating.

3. Detecting and Defending Against Peeking and Colluding Detect peeking by: · · ·

Watching for the deck being turned sideways or inverted during any movement by the dealer. Watching for any unnecessary movement of the dealer's free hand toward the hand holding the deck. Watching for any suspicious movement of cards below the top card wherever a player draws from the deck in games such as rummy.


Defend against peeking by: · ·

Demanding an immediate cut of the deck on detecting any suspicious movement such as described above. Using the knowledge that the dealer has peeked at your card to bluff or beat him (must wait for the right setup or situation).

Detect and defend against colluding: ·

See pages 12-22 and Chapters I, X, and XI.


[ 27 ] For details on that and other forms of collusion cheating, see Chapters 1, VII, and XI.

Chapter VIII DEGREES OF NEOCHEATING AND FUTURE NEOCHEATING 1. Degrees of Neocheating--More Difficult Neocheating An essence of all Neocheating is its simplicity and ease of execution. But the ease of execution for different Neocheating techniques varies somewhat. Some Neocheating maneuvers require more effort than others. But any maneuver must be safe, easy, and effective to qualify as Neocheating. And all Neocheating maneuvers are easier and safer than classical or traditional cheating. An example of a difficult classical-cheating technique evolving into a relatively easy, invisible Neocheating maneuver is the complete false riffle. While that false riffle requires several hours of diligent practice and is one of the more difficult Neocheating maneuvers, it is still easy compared to classical techniques and safe compared to traditional techniques.

a. The Complete False Riffle (the Pull-Through) The complete false riffle is also called the pull-through. It is invisible and hinges on a unique false riffle that keeps the entire deck intact. The complete false riffle can be


effectively used not only in poker but in any card game. The maneuver is executed as follows: With the deck on the table, remove the top half of the cards with the right hand and proceed to riffle shuffle as you would in the Las Vegas variation (described on pages 90-92) with two exceptions -- (1) riffle shuffle the deck legitimately, without keeping the upper right-hand deck portion intact, and (2) keep the right-hand portion of the deck angled as shown in Figure 32 (half the deck is turned face up to illustrate the moves more clearly).

Figure 32 Pull-Through, Step One Angling the Deck Halves During the Riffle Shuffle (face-up deck half for illustrative and practice purposes) For the Las Vegas variation, you continue shielding the cards with your hands and fingers while using your palms to push the deck halves together. But for the complete false riffle, you stop shielding the deck as your hands shift immediately after interlacing the deck halves and before pushing the halves together. Your hands shift so that the middle fingers and thumbs grip the sides of the deck halves near the ends and the ring fingers press against the deck ends as shown in Figure 32. Keeping the deck angled, push the deck halves together as far as they will go so the angled halves move completely through each other and protrude at opposite ends as shown in Figure 33. Next, grip the protruding corners of the deck at their sides between the middle fingers and thumbs of both hands while keeping the outer fingers close together to shield only the deck ends. Now with your thumbs and fingers square the sides of the deck, but not the ends.


Figure 33 Pull-Through, Step Two Pushing the Halves Together Until They Protrude at Opposite Ends (face-up deck half for illustrative and practice purposes) At that moment, the deck halves are no longer angled, but form a straight line as the interlaced halves protrude about a quarter to a half inch from each end. Those protruding ends are hidden by the fingers of both hands that are squaring the sides of the deck and seemingly squaring the ends as the little fingers caress the ends of the deck. The entire side-squaring maneuver should take no more than two or three seconds. With the fingers still shielding the ends of the deck, the thumbs and middle fingers firmly grip both sides of the deck at the corners. Now with a tight grip, swing the far left edge of the deck toward you an inch or so with your left hand and pull those cards smoothly outward to extract the entire original right-hand portion of the deck (the original stacked, top portion) as shown in Figure 34. Press down with your left forefinger as you extract those cards-- the entire block should slide out easily. Then simulating a cutting motion, slap that block of cards on top of the right-hand block and square the deck. All the cards, including the stacked cards, are now back in their original positions.

Figure 34 Pull-Through, Step Three Completing the Pull-Through


Done properly, the complete false riffle is undetectable. With practice, it can be done very rapidly and gives the appearance not only of thoroughly shuffling but of capping each shuffle with a solid cut. The key to executing that maneuver lies in lightly and loosely riffling the cards and then gently pushing the halves inward. After the side-squaring motion and without groping or fumbling, the original top block of cards is pulled out intact with the left hand. Since the complete false riffle looks so reassuring, the maneuver is valuable to the Neocheater--especially when he is discard stacking. But the Neocheater must be willing to invest a few hours of practice to master the maneuver. Three or four rapid repetitions of the complete false riffle, followed by a crimp and a false cut is a perfect, invisible maneuver for the discard stacker. Note particularly the difference in the position of the hands between the Las Vegas variation riffle and the complete false riffle: In the former maneuver, the deck remains completely shielded during the entire riffle shuffle. In the latter maneuver, everyone can clearly see that the dealer has thoroughly "shuffled" the deck when his fingers grasp the sides of the deck and push the interlaced card together. Only after that push-through does the dealer shield the deck to falsely square its ends. That allows him to pull the deck apart again with all the cards in their original positions. When practicing the pull-through, go slowly at first and concentrate on accuracy -speed comes with practice. Also when practicing, invert one of the deck halves as shown in Figures 32-34 to ensure that the entire deck stays intact during each complete false riffle. Your stack can be ruined if a card or two from one block of cards get caught and end up in the other block of cards.

b. Winning at Bridge The complete false riffle is not only effective in poker, but is especially effective in bridge for dealing premium hands to you and your partner, even for arranging grand slams. Bridge seems tailored for discard stacking since players can handle and spread out tricks on the table in order to "check, think about, and memorize" the cards that have been played. The object is to discard stack a few extra honor cards or to concentrate suited cards for the next hand by casually placing the desired cards in the proper stacking order as the tricks are handled and gathered. Assume you have easily discard-stacked aces, kings, and queens for yourself and your partner by placing them in the proper sequence as the tricks are spread and then collected. Now, after the hand is played and the cards are stacked and gathered, use the complete false riffle to "shuffle" the deck four or five times. Next, crimp and cut the stacked deck at about the middle and offer it to your opponent for a cut. Four out of five times he will cut at your crimp. Thus with the complete false riffle, you can regularly deal you and your partner cards with unbeatable advantages. . . . And your partner never needs to know what you are doing. He along with everyone else will simply believe you are both lucky.


But suppose your opponent misses your crimp and cuts so that he and his partner will be dealt the premium hands. In that case, you can "accidentally" expose a card during the deal and insist on redealing.

Detecting the Complete False Riffle · · · ·


Watch for the Las Vegas variation grip. Watch for the shuffling and pushing together of the deck halves at an angle that leaves the corners of both deck halves protruding at opposite ends. Watch for the dealer who squares the sides of the deck while shielding the ends so you cannot actually see him squaring the ends. After the dealer seemingly squares the deck and as he pulls it apart into split halves with both hands, look for the deck being pulled apart from an interlaced position. Notice if after each riffle shuffle, the dealer seemingly cuts the deck soundly.

Defending Against the Complete False Riffle ·

On suspicion, simply demand and make a cut that will destroy any possible stack -- center cut several times and square the deck before the dealer picks up the cards to deal.

2. Future Possibilities. Most Neocheating techniques have evolved from difficult or risky forms of classical or traditional cheating. If a safe and easy Neocheating maneuver presently does not exist for a particular function, [ 28 ] such a maneuver may possibly evolve in the future. For example, no Neocheating method presently exists for very rapidly stacking culled hands for two or more players. But a classical cheating maneuver called the interlace (also known as the faro shuffle) can stack culled hands for two, four, or eight players in less than five seconds. The interlace, however, is not Neocheating because it requires too much skill when used to stack cards, as described below:

a. The Interlace Stack Ironically, the basic interlace maneuver is innocently used by many honest players executing sloppy wedge or butt shuffles. But when the interlace is purposely executed with precision, it is far from innocent: The deck is split into two equal portions as it sits on the table. (The deck need not be split precisely in half.) Each half is then gripped at the ends along the sides between the thumbs and third fingers. With the edges of the deck halves perfectly squared --an absolute necessity -- the ends are pressed lightly together as the halves are held at a slight V angle (i.e., the inner ends are pressing together while resting on the table-top as the outer ends are held about an inch above the table as shown in Figure 35). After some diligent practice, the cards will interlace perfectly one by one as the butted deck halves are lifted while being lightly pressed together. With light pressure, the alternating 109

interlacing action commences from the top and works its way down. (The interlace is easier to execute with plastic cards than with cardboard ones.)

Figure 35 Holding the Cards for a Perfect Alternating Interlace The interlace is effective for quickly stacking culled hands. The technique, however, is applicable only to two, four, or eight players. With the culled hands on top of the deck, one interlacing riffle stacks for two players, two interlacing riffles stack for four players, and three interlacing riffles stack for eight players. But since so many other easier and effective Neocheating techniques are available for stacking, the interlace is rarely used in poker. The interlace, nevertheless, can be ideal for stacking gin rummy and bridge hands. But a player must be willing to invest much more time and effort in mastering interlace stacking than the easier Neocheating stacking techniques. And since so much practice is needed to achieve the required perfect alternation of the cards, chances of encountering an interlace stacker today are rare. Still, as with all stacking methods, any suspicious move can be countered simply by demanding and making deliberate center cuts that would destroy any possible stack. And to prevent the cut from being foiled by the dealer, always cut in noncrimped areas, complete the cuts, and square the deck before the dealer picks up the cards. *** While interlace stacking is a safe and innocent-looking maneuver, its proper execution currently requires too much practice and skill to be classified as Neocheating. But if a sufficient need or advantage exists for very quickly stacking culled hands for two, four or eight players, interlace stacking could evolve into Neocheating. Shortcuts might evolve -- perhaps just a certain angle of the cards or a turn of the wrist would make interlace stacking easy and nearly skill-free. The technique then would become Neocheating. But if another maneuver were developed or evolved that could also quickly stack culled hands to several players, safely and easily, cheating techniques filling that function, including the interlace stack, would become obsolete. ... Thus as safe and


easy Neocheating techniques evolve, all corresponding classical and traditional cheating techniques become obsolete.


[ 28 ] Once the Neocheating maneuver fills a function, all other more difficult or detectable forms of cheating for that function become obsolete. That is why, as demonstrated in Appendices A and C, Neocheating has obsoleted essentially all classical and traditional cheating techniques.

Chapter IX THE INEVITABLE SPREAD OF NEOCHEATING While public poker differs from private poker in many respects, new developments in the more dynamic and cosmopolitan public-poker arena are almost always harbingers of future developments in private poker. Recently, the increasing spread of Neocheating throughout public poker suggests that such Neocheating will increasingly menace private poker and all other card games played for money or prestige. In fact, Neocheating is already spreading throughout private poker as well as into blackjack, bridge, and gin. And as in public poker, Neocheating will probably spread geometrically because it is so safe, easy, and effective to execute. In fact, all who have ever yearned to cheat but were afraid of being caught or were unwilling to spend the years of practice required to master the classical cheating techniques can now Neocheat safely, easily, and effectively. But another reason that Neocheating is spreading -- especially in public poker -- is that the quality of poker itself is rapidly improving with the availability of several good poker books and with the advent of the Advanced-Concept player (described in Chapter XI). Because of the improving competition, more and more serious players are searching for ways to compensate for the diminishing supply of easy opponents. And professionals especially are seeking to bolster their sagging profit margins due to steadily increasing competition that threatens their livelihood. Also, escalating inflation puts increasing pressure and desires on all players to extract more money from their games. Neocheating offers a quick and easy solution to those problems and needs. Thus more and more serious players of blackjack, bridge, and gin are discovering and using Neocheating.





Chapter X WHITE-HAT NEOCHEATING AND OTHER DEFENSES AND COUNTERATTACKS AGAINST CHEATING 1. Understanding the Cheater's Philosophy and Psychology. The following quoted paragraphs are the unedited, written words of a professional cheater. Although filled with overblown phrases and confused assertions, his statements unmistakably reveal his philosophy -- his justification for cheating: Man is basically an aggressive c reature. In spite of the high -sounding platitudes with which so-called 'leaders' have soothed mankind for so many generations, very often while manipulating and exploiting them for maximum profit, the simple truth is that it's going to take many eons of ev olution to eradicate the instinct that provokes certain men to take advantage of others. The instinct may never be extinguished. In the meantime, there are two basic alternatives: You can either try to escape the harsh realities of life by seeking spiritu al solace in the here and now rather than the hereafter, thus detaching yourself from the inevitable grief and sorrows of human existence. You will also, however, detach yourself from the numerous pleasures and profits of the same existence. Anyone who wan ts absolute protection in any game, poker or otherwise, will only achieve it by refusing to play. Or you can be a stark realist and accept man's folly and greed, and align yourself with those who decide to play for maximum enjoyment and profit. Whether or not you decide to exploit the flaws of others in the process is up to you. The term "cheating" is often inflicted on those individuals who refuse to abide by social rules which are very often rigid and repressive, deliberately stifling individual resource fulness and imagination. Conscience is a social invention (in spite of the nonsense we're taught as infants), and it's necessary for the survival of society; without it chaos would be rampant. But, in the final analysis, if a man plays at all, he plays by his own rules or by the rules of others, with the choice of his life all too often made by others who dominate. Your habitual style of playing poker reveals your habitual life -style, since it's only a miniature stage, which deceives many players; they thi nk that by entering a sideshow they're escaping the main tent. This is self -deception on a grand scale. Nowhere does character ultimately display itself more clearly than in a man's poker game. Complainers will complain, even when they're winning heavily. Stoics will be philosophic and taciturn whether they win or lose. The rash and improvident are punished equally along with the timid. The bold are almost always the biggest winners, because nature favors the bold. Exploiters will milk every 114

opportunity, cr eating their own if none exist, and losers will (and must, by their own unconscious preference) be victimized. Whether you choose to be a victim or an opportunist is your decision. If a man develops his talents and potential, he is said to be exploiting h imself, and he's viewed with admiration and acclaim for his achievements. If he exploits others, he's accused of being dishonest and immoral. The difference, you'll note, is in the label; the principle is the same. The above rationalization for cheating not only expresses the philosophy for that particular cheater, but expresses the philosophy of most professional cheaters who retain their self-esteem by justifying their cheating. By positing their cheating as superior knowledge, they project themselves as superior to honest players. In fact, only by justifying their cheating can they develop the calmness and gall needed to cheat professionally. And not only do professional cheaters justify their cheating, but they base their self-esteem on cheating: they begin to crave cheating -- the more they cheat, the more superior they consider themselves. Understanding the psychology as well as the philosophy of cheaters is helpful for beating them: In public or casino poker, many professional players eventually involve themselves in surreptitious cheating cliques. How and why do they involve themselves in such cliques? Imagine a lonely public-game player struggling against the house cut to crack the nut -- to become a full-time professional. He then suddenly discovers a friendly professional establishment with an ongoing cheating system -an undetectable cheating system requiring no special skills and available for his immediate profit. Such a player, especially if he is of mediocre ability struggling to survive as a professional, will often embrace that establishment. He begins tacitly cooperating with the cheating cliques. He accepts their collusion as a trade tool required for playing competitive, professional poker. As he gains advantages from those professionals and adopts their system, he becomes increasingly dependent on their collusion to survive. He loses his independence and becomes a stereotype, public-game professional. Indeed, with a sense of professional righteousness, he becomes a collusion cheater. In a sense, all chronic cheaters become entrapped with similar physical and psychological dependencies on cheating. Moreover, professional cheaters learn to feel little or no conscious guilt about their dishonesty. And only the honest player knowledgeable about cheating can stop them.

2. Stopping Cheating and the Cheater. What to do when you encounter a cheater depends on (1) the type of cheater and, (2) your objectives: As explained in Chapter I, most traditional cheaters are losers who often lose more money because of their cheating. For that reason, a good player usually tries to keep such cheaters in the game as sources of income. But the continued presence of a


cheater can cause suspicion or resentment among other players, possibly jeopardizing the game and future profits by causing valuable losers to quit.... If the cheater adversely affects your game or profits, you must stop his cheating. And if the cheater is a steady winner or a Neocheater, you must get him out of the game quickly and permanently. You can usually eliminate a cheater or stop his cheating by using one of the nine methods in Table 1 on page 6. But you may instead want to profit from his cheating. To do that, follow John Finn's example of staying one step ahead of the cheater as John did in Anecdote A and D of Chapter I. That approach, however, requires much effort. An easier way to profit from cheaters is through white-hat Neocheating as described below.

3. White-Hat Neocheating. Neocheating used to benefit all honest players is called white-hat Neocheating. For example, you can benefit honest players by bankrupting cheaters with Neocheating. By bankrupting the cheater, you rid the game of a menace to benefit the other players. While you can win extra money directly from the cheater with Neocheating, a prerequisite of white-hat Neocheating is that no player (except the cheater) lose money because of the cheating. [ 29 ] You can also benefit the other players with white-hat Neocheating by arranging for the cheater to lose directly to the other players, especially to the cheater's biggest victims and the game's weakest players (Robin Hood cheating). With no one realizing what you are doing, you can use white-hat Neocheating to assume a Godlike role with the responsibility of keeping the game honest while temporarily helping the cheater's victims and weak players. [ 30 ] [ 30 ] Assume, for instance, you detect a player marking cards. You could use one of the several noncheating approaches listed on page 6 to stop his cheating or to break him. But why not bankrupt him with white-hat Neocheating? By breaking that cheater, everyone else not only becomes safe from his cheating, but benefits from his losses. Because you attack only the cheaters and especially when you arrange for other players to win, white-hat Neocheating need not be as subtle as dishonest or black-hat Neocheating. For that reason, white-hat Neocheating is especially effective for beating Neocheaters. Moreover, out of fear of having their own actions revealed, cheaters cannot effectively defend themselves against white-hat cheating. And few would dare accuse someone of cheating them. Through white-hat Neocheating, you can fearlessly arrange powerful hands such as four aces to a loser and four queens to the cheater to drain that cheater. And if you are not the winner of those big hands, no one would suspect anything more than coincidence. In addition, most players root for losers and weak players to win big


hands and are glad when they do because extra money in the hands of losers and weak players is easier to win.

4. Defending Against Neocheating. By now you know the techniques of Neocheating. But that knowledge alone does not assure complete protection. You must also know what actions to take against cheaters. Directly detecting a properly executed blind shuffle, false riffle, or discard stack is essentially impossible, even if you can flawlessly execute those maneuvers yourself. In addition, as explained in the next chapter, the Neocheater selectively uses only a fraction of his power, making him even more difficult to detect. And unlike those cheaters using marked cards, shiners, strippers, cold decks, holdouts, punches, and daubs in gaffed games, the Neocheater leaves no direct evidence of cheating. The Neocheater provides nothing tangible -- nothing that can be identified or proven. Alert and knowledgeable players, however, can sense a Neocheater through the illogical playing and betting patterns inherent in any cheating. And usually that is the only way to detect or, more precisely, to sense the Neocheater. Even then, no one can actually prove his cheating. Still, with (1) knowledge of Neocheating and (2) knowing what defensive action to take against cheaters, anyone can protect himself against all cheating, including Neocheating. Those defensive actions could range from white-hat Neocheating to leaving the game. As evident from the verbatim quote at the beginning of this chapter, the professional cheater feels no guilt or sympathy for his victims. In fact, he usually feels contempt for them. And most Neocheaters genuinely believe that they are rightfully exercising superior knowledge over their opponents. But this book has shown how to recognize, nullify, and even beat those Neocheaters. Other defenses and counterattacks that are effective against both cheaters and Neocheaters are listed below:

a. Cutting Aces If you practiced an hour or so cutting high cards as described in Chapter II, you can now cut aces at will. But if you merely read that chapter without actually trying the technique, you will still understand the nature of culling and crimping enough to sense and counter any cheating when cutting high cards for money: (1) Insist on cutting your card first if you suspect Neocheating--but do not insist on cutting first until after the cheater has shuffled and placed the deck on the table. Indeed, he will probably inquire about your choice while shuffling in order to determine whether to crimp a high card for himself if he cuts first -- or a low card for you at the approximate center (a high card for himself very low in the deck) if you cut first. Tell him he can cut first, but change your mind once he has placed the deck on the table.


(2) If he refuses to let you cut first, you can assume he has crimped himself a high card. In that case, simply refuse to cut. But if he agrees to let you cut first, which he usually will do to avoid suspicion, run your thumb or fingertips lightly from the bottom of the deck up until you locate the crimp. Then cut the high card he had crimped for himself to win the bet. That counterattack can generally be used only once against the same cheater. If the bet was large enough to break the cheater, the action is over anyway. But if he wants another cut, he will probably switch tactics and crimp a low card near the center of the deck for you to hit, whether you cut first or last. When the cards are on the table ready for cutting, suddenly insist on cutting for low card (i.e., the lowest card wins). If he refuses, simply avoid cutting at the crimp . . . or refuse to cut altogether. (3) If the Neocheater (or any cheater) does not ask who will cut first while preparing the cards for cutting, he then is probably crimping a high card for himself very low or very high in the deck and assuming you will not cut that low or high. Or, he is crimping a low card near the center of the deck and assuming that you will cut at the crimp. In any case, be sure that you cut first. Then before cutting, slowly and lightly run your thumb or fingertips up the side of the deck to locate the crimp. If the crimp is very low or very high, you will probably get a high card by cutting at that crimp. If the crimp is near the center of the deck, move past that crimp to avoid cutting a low card. (4) You also have other options to nullify or beat the Neocheater when cutting high cards: (a) Riffle-shuffle the deck yourself and then white-hat Neocheat the cheater. You can use a foolproof Neocheating ploy by crimping a low card with a high card positioned directly behind that low card. Then offer your opponent the cut. If he is unsuspecting of your crimp, he may simply cut that low card at the crimp to lose. If he misses the crimp or is suspicious and purposely avoids your crimp, you can put your fingertips on the crimp during your cut, but leave the low card behind to cut the high card and win. (b) Refuse to cut with him at all -- especially if you suspect him of using the foolproof Neocheating ploy described above.

b. Blind Shuffling, False Riffling, False Cutting, and Crimping Blind shuffling, false riffling, false cutting, and crimping are key maneuvers for cheating, but by themselves they do not constitute cheating. They are covers -- the tools and props for cheating maneuvers such as stacking. Three basic ways, therefore, exist to detect cheating: (1) detect the "covers" of cheating: blind shuffling, false riffling, false cutting, crimping. Those covers always indicate previous cheating moves, even if no cheating move can be detected; (2) detect or sense the cheating itself: stacking, peeking, memorizing opponents' hole cards, culling, collusion; and (3) detect or sense the results of cheating by observing illogical or omniscient betting


and playing patterns that could occur only by gaining unnatural advantages through cheating as described in Chapter I. Blind shuffling properly done is invisible and undetectable. But with alertness and with the right knowledge, cheating can be sensed without ever seeing an illegal move. Still, blind shuffling ineptly or awkwardly done is detectable by simply observing the portion of the deck that never gets shuffled. Any player, however, unfamiliar with the mechanics of blind shuffling will not suspect, much less detect, even a clumsy blind shuffler. If a cheater is blind shuffling, he has already stacked the deck or perhaps has memorized everyone's hole cards without stacking. If he is using Neocheating techniques, you will probably never see his stacking. Nevertheless, you can indirectly sense the results of his stacking or memorizing hole cards by observing omniscient betting patterns that would be possible only if that player had stacked the deck or knew everyone's hole cards. Once his cheating moves are detected by, for example, the methods listed in Chapters III and IV, or are sensed as described in Chapter I, you can then use the defenses and counterattacks listed on the next page to protect yourself or beat the cheater. False riffling can often be spotted if you are looking for it, except for the Las Vegas variation during which the deck is covered with both hands while riffling (as described in Chapter IV). Such false riffling cannot be detected with certainty, only suspected. Spotting or sensing a false cut depends on the cut used. The standard, three-block false cut described in Chapter IV and its more elaborate four-block false variation described in Chapter VI can be detected, or at least suspected, once you know their basic movements. The shifting block cut in which small blocks of cards are moved rapidly from top to bottom (also described in Chapter VI) is a fairly common, legitimate cutting procedure. Still, be alert for cheating whenever a player uses such a cut. And finally, the cut used to remove one card from the top of the deck is hard to detect when done rapidly, but shifting that single card often makes a recognizable snapping sound. Any time you can see an obvious crimp, you are playing against a careless or inept cheater (or an oafish player who innocently but brutely bends the deck when shuffling). An intended crimp always indicates a previous cheating maneuver, usually stacking. On suspecting a crimp, you can defend yourself by taking one of the following steps:

Defenses Against Stacking (1) After the deck has been cut by the player on the dealer's right, request another cut whether you suspect the dealer of having an agent next to him or not.


(2) If you are sitting on the dealer's right, purposely hit his crimp but leave one card behind when you cut. Or cut at the crimp and give the deck an additional rapid cut to remove only the top card as described on pages 99-102. Those counterattack maneuvers will give you the dealer's stacked hand. And after the first or second time the cheater deals you his hand, he will not only realize that you know about his cheating, but that you are counterattacking him. (3) If you are not sitting on the cheater's right, ask (or demand) to shuffle the deck after the cut. Such a move, however, is an indirect accusation of the dealer. But if you can get the deck and have mastered the basic Neocheating maneuvers, give the deck a quick blind shuffle. When you reach your gap, simply run off, one by one, the number of cards equal to the number of players clockwise from you to the dealer. For example, if you are the third player from the dealer's right, run off three cards. Then toss the rest of the deck on top of those cards, execute a false cut, and hand the deck back ready for dealing. The cheater will then deal you the hand he had stacked for himself. (4) Maneuver yourself into the seat to the right of the cheater. You can then collect his stacked hands by using the one-card-removal cut after hitting his crimp. Or, of course, you can simply destroy his stacks with your cuts. With complaints about "luck" or other excuses, you can often exchange seats to position yourself on the cheater's right -- unless that seat is held by his agent or collusion partner. Be careful on repeating counterattacks that involve, for example, the one-cardremoval cut. An alert cheater can set you up for a big loss by stacking two powerful hands and then placing an extra card at the crimp. Upon removing that extra card, you will be setting yourself up to receive, for example, four jacks to another player's four aces.

c. Discard Stacking Knowing about Neocheating lets you quickly learn effective discard-stacking techniques. But that knowledge will not make you infallible in detecting another discard-stacker, especially a Neocheater. Stacking hands with discards can be done as fast as the cards can be scooped up. The moves will appear completely natural. When the cheater gathers face-up cards, especially in stud poker, you can often predict the hand or hands being stacked by seeing the bottom face-up card of each scoop. But as explained in Chapter III, Neocheaters will alter their scooping motions so the bottom face-up card of each scoop will not be one of the stacked cards. And discard-stackers using both hands can grab cards and turn them face down so fast that the scooped cards appear only as blurs and are impossible to follow. Moreover, if discard stacking is done in segments before the betting rounds are complete, you can at best only suspect but can never be certain that the dealer is stacking.


Nevertheless, you can detect or sense all such discard stacking by using the methods described on pages 52-53 in Chapter III. You can then counter the stacking by taking one of the four steps listed on page 138.

d. Undercut Stacking The undercut stack done by amateurs is easy to spot. But when done very rapidly and followed by a number of blind shuffles, false riffles and false cuts, the undercut is hard to follow. In any case, the review on page 80 in Chapter V shows how to detect the undercut. As with all stacking techniques, however, blind shuffling and false riffling are used as effective covers once the deck is stacked. Professional cheaters generally reserve the undercut for naive company or when setting up two hands for a killing as described on pages 76-79 in Chapter V. Defenses and counterattacks against undercut stacking involve the same techniques listed on page 138 for all stacking techniques.

e. Overhand Stacking The tipoff for overhand stacking is the dealer pulling cards one by one rapidly off the deck during the shuffle and subsequently sliding those same cards back on top of the deck followed by a blind shuffle. But again, the maneuvers can be done so fast you must be alert to detect overhand stacking. You must know exactly what moves to look for -- such as the moves listed on page 86.

f. Riffle Stacking Riffle stacking is essentially impossible to detect when done properly, especially when done with the Las Vegas variation. If you suspect expert riffle stacking, notice if the dealer wins too consistently when he deals or if his betting seems illogical or too omniscient (as explained in Chapter I). Indeed, because of its invisibility, the riffle stack is favored by many Neocheaters. Review pages 90, 92, 94, and 96 in Chapter V and page 138 in this chapter for detecting and defending against the riffle stack and other stacking variations.

g. The Pull-Through Technically, the pull-through is a false riffle, not a stack. But the pull-through always indicates a stack, often a discard stack. The tipoff for the pull-through occurs when the dealer cuts the deck into approximate halves for each riffle shuffle and then angles those halves as he riffles them together. Some professional cheaters use nothing more than discard stacking and a pullthrough to operate profitably. That routine is also very effective for bridge. For defending against the pull-through, follow the procedures listed on page 138.

h. Collusion Cheating and Crossfire Betting 121

The anecdotes in Chapter I show how an alert player who understands cheating can soundly beat most collusion cheaters once he detects them. Still, even knowledgeable and alert players can be helpless against dealer-partner Neocheating collusion as revealed in Chapter I and further described in the next chapter. [ 31 ] Recourses against such "unbeatable" Neocheating include simply getting out of the game as John Finn did in anecdote B of Chapter I; not playing in games suspect of dealer-partner Neocheating as John Finn did in anecdote F of Chapter I; making a secret arrangement with the dealer to trap his original collusion partner in a bankrupting loss; or, in private games, using white-hat Neocheating to drive colluding partners from the game. In private games in which you deal, however, you can effectively counterattack even Neocheaters in dealer-partner collusion with white-hat Neocheating. Or you can drive those Neocheaters from your game with still other methods described later in this chapter and in the next chapter.

i. Peeking You can easily detect inept or careless peekers by simply noticing the awkward manner or unnatural angle in which they hold the deck when peeking (or while waiting to peek between dealing moves). But peeking by a professional or a Neocheater can be impossible to spot. The effective peeker not only synchronizes his movements, but he acts with his body as well as with his face. His full attention, for example, focuses on the actions performed by his right hand as he peeks at a card in the deck resting in his left hand. Such misdirection is magnetically distracting as he rivets his entire body -- his neck, arms, shoulders, spine -- in the direction of his right hand. But his eyes will flick briefly to peek at a card in his left hand. ... For the amount of practice invested, peeking is one of the safest and most profitable cheating ruses. If you can spot someone peeking, he is neither an expert nor a Neocheater. Effective responses on detecting or sensing a peeker include: (1) immediately demand a cut the moment you sense a peek. If necessary, you can announce as the reason for cutting is, for example, that the top card was flashed, and (2) politely or rudely (whatever the situation calls for) insist that the deck stay on the table whenever cards are not actually being dealt. For other detection and defense methods against peeking, see page 117 in Chapter VII. When the peeker realizes someone suspects him of cheating, he usually stops peeking. If he persists, simply refuse to ante whenever he deals. Repeated refusals will not only protect you, but should soon stop his peeking. In gin rummy, if you suspect someone of peeking, spread the deck slightly and carefully watch him draw his cards. With the deck slightly spread, you can more


easily notice movement of the spread cards if anyone peeks at the second or any other card.

5. Stopping the Neocheater. If you are playing against a consistent winner, he may be a complete Neocheater (as defined in the next chapter). If so, he will execute such mild, smart cheating -- just enough to give him unbeatable long-range advantages -- that you may never detect or even suspect him of cheating. In fact, you may never know for sure if he is a Neocheater or simply a good player. [ 32 ] Regardless, you need not know if he is a cheater or simply a good player to get rid of him -- you need only to know that he will be a steady winner, thus a financial liability. In fact, the defense against the unbeatable Neocheater is the same as the defense against the unbeatable good player: get him out of your game before he drains your opponents of their money -- money that you could win. The following anecdote is a final defense against both the Neocheater and the good or Advanced-Concept player. The anecdote was paraphrased from Wallace's "Advanced Concepts of Poker" and describes John Finn's encounter with a player who may have been either a Neocheater or a good player, but a certain winner in either case. *** In one of his private games several years ago, John Finn encountered what may have been a Neocheater. At that time, however, Neocheating had not been identified. But while John Finn did not know about Neocheating, he knew that a particular player -a newcomer to the game -- would be a consistent winner who could steadily drain money from the game. John, therefore, realized that the new player would be a financial liability and wanted him out of the game promptly and permanently: Throughout the evening, Boris Klien played tightly, but strangely loosened up on his deal. And when he dealt, he won about twice as often as he would when other players dealt. Moreover, he was the game's biggest winner -- up nearly five-hundred dollars. He then engaged John Finn in a lowball hand. The pot was large. By the last bet, only Boris and John remained. Boris turned his cards face up and declared his hand. John said nothing, so Boris reached for the pot. "Keep your hands off my money," John snapped. "Uh? What do ya mean?" Boris asked. "I won, didn't I?" John snorted, turned his winning hand face up on the table, and snatched the pot from under Boris' stiffened fingers. "Why didn't you declare your hand?" Boris complained.


"This is a poker game, buddy boy," John growled out of the twisted corner of his mouth. "Cards speak for themselves, remember?" "I'm getting a bad time," Boris mumbled. "Listen," John said shaking his finger close to Boris' face, "No one made you play. If you don't like our game . . . get out!" "No, don't leave!" a big loser cried. "You're winning all our money." "I started out losing three hundred," Boris said, "I'm still stuck a hundred." "Liar!" John shouted. "You're up over four-hundred bucks!" "This is my last round," Boris said. "I've . . ." "The bore's even a hit-and-run artist!" John yelled while slapping his hand on the table. "Plan on this being your last round . . . permanently!" Boris frowned and glanced toward the door. John had been riding Boris that way all evening. Boris did not like his treatment. But he was still the big winner. "Seven-card stud, high-low with qualifiers and one twist," John announced as he dealt. "Trips-eight," [ 33 ] he added in a whispering voice. After the sixth card, John raised on his low hand and drove out the other low hands. By the last card, only John and Boris remained. He shrugged and called John's final $30 bet. "Don't know why you wasted our time betting," he said showing his two pair. "We split the pot. Obviously you're low and I'm high." "Look at that hand!" John hooted while pointing at Boris' cards. "The sucker calls all my big bets and doesn't even qualify for high. I get the whole pot!" "What do ya mean I don't qualify?" Boris sputtered. "I got two pair." "Three of a kind qualifies for high, you creep," John said shoving Boris' cards into the deck. "Trips for qualifiers!" Boris cried. "They've been two pair all night." "I announced trips-eight," John said laughing. "Clean your ears, clod." "I heard him announce it," one of the players said weakly. "Yeah? . . . Well, then it'd be impossible for me to call," Boris said reaching for the pot. "I'm taking back my last bet 124

"It stays in the pot," John said slapping his hand on the money. "You make a stupid play, buster, you pay for it." "I've had enough," Boris said getting up to leave. "You're winning big," a losing player whined. "Sit down and play awhile." "Let the rock go," John said. "We'll play longer without him bothering us." Then turning to Boris, John made a sharp hitchhiking motion toward the door. "So long, sucker, hope we never see you again." "I won't be back," Boris huffed. "Good!" John yelled. Boris grabbed his coat and left, slamming the door. . . . John was somewhat surprised at how little harassment was needed to drive Boris from a game in which he could have won a fortune. *** The above anecdote describes an overtly harsh defense against good players who are steady winners. That approach is even more effective for getting rid of Neocheaters. The Neocheater is basically lazy and works entirely by the policy of easy money through smart but easy cheating. Thus if you make his job difficult or make him work hard for his money, he will quickly leave for an easier game. The good player, on the other hand, being guilt free and willing to work harder, will fight more tenaciously for his rights in a game. He cannot be driven from a game as easily as a Neocheater. In a private game, the alert player can eventually determine if a consistent winner is a Neocheater rather than a good player by detecting illogical playing and betting actions that win too consistently. In other words, a Neocheater wins too consistently- his quality of cardplaying is not commensurate with his frequency and amount of winnings. A good player, however, can legitimately beat cheaters even Neocheaters by knowing their moves and staying one step ahead of them. For example, against a cheater, the good player can-( 1 ) save money by quickly folding against the cheater's winning hands made more readable by his cheating. (2) lure the cheater into making expensive bluffs and double bluffs. (3) use the cheater's aggressive but readable bluffs to drive out the players with better hands. With the other players out, the good player can then simply call the cheater's bluff or, when necessary, double bluff the cheater with a final raise.

6. Counterattacking with White-Hat Neocheating.


A powerful counterattack weapon against cheaters and Neocheaters is white-hat Neocheating (honest cheating). The white-hat approach ranges from directly wiping out cheaters to neutralizing the Neocheater's advantages and then winning simply by playing better poker when the honest players deal. The Neocheater, by nature, is lazy and relies on his cheating to win. If you neutralize his cheating advantage, then, in a sense, you make the game "honest" again, allowing the better players to win all the money over the long term. A white-hat Neocheater can quickly drain cheaters including Neocheaters with bighand traps that dishonest or black-hat Neocheaters would rarely if ever dare attempt. The white-hat Neocheater does not always win for himself when he cheats. And he eliminates suspicion when he arranges for the cheater's victims or big losers to beat the cheaters (Robin Hood cheating). So even if the white-hat Neocheater were discovered, he would be hailed by everyone, except the cheater, as a hero. As you counterattack, however, the Neocheater may turn on you with all his power and cunning. Still, by being aware of his techniques, he cannot really harm you. And you can always avoid his cheating by simply not anteing during his deal. In any case, the Neocheater will usually give up and quit the game on realizing he has been discovered -- especially on realizing he is being beaten by white-hat Neocheating. ... The black-hat (dishonest) Neocheater normally quits easily because he can usually find safer and easier games to drain.

7. Electronic Cards. Someday, electronic cards will eliminate most cheating and Neocheating. Players will hold small devices showing images of their electronically shuffled and dealt cards transmitted from a tabletop micro computer. Without physical cards for manipulation, essentially all cheating will disappear (except for collusion signals, which can be easily detected and countered). ... Moreover, electronic cards will accelerate the action, remove everyone's fear of cheating, and lower the costs of public and casino games by eliminating the dealer and automating the house collection. The advantages of electronic cards will overwhelm any nostalgic desire to physically handle cards as low-cost, tamper-proof devices begin replacing cards and dealers. And further in the future, electronic checkbook betting will reduce the need for physical cash (also reduce armed robberies of high-stake games).


[ 29 ] Neocheating is the best way to white-hat cheat. Classical or traditional cheating techniques could be used to beat cheaters, but those techniques require too much skill, effort, gall, or risk to be practical, especially since easier and safer 126

Neocheating as well as noncheating methods (such as listed on page 6) are available to stop cheaters.

[ 30 ] After arranging for weak players to bankrupt the cheater through white-hat Neocheating, the good player can then proceed without cheating to win all the money from those weak players

[ 31 ] See Appendix B for information about efforts to find an effective way to counter and defeat "unbeatable " dealer-collusion Neocheating

[ 32 ] Even if a Neocheater's attack is so subtle you can never defect his cheating, his playing will still be distorted by his cheating. If constantly alert to his performance versus his quality and style of play, you can sense if he is cheating by illogical and inconsistent betting patterns that would result only if he were omniscient or had gained unnatural advantages through Neocheating. Still, you can never accuse him because you can never prove his cheating - he leaves no trace or evidence of cheating

[ 33 ] Trips-eight means that three of a kind or better are needed to win for high, and an eight low or lower is needed to win for low.




Chapter XI THE UNBEATABLE NEOCHEATER AND BLACK-HAT NEOCHEATING Black-hat Neocheating is the use of Neocheating for personal gain of money or prestige -- or both -- at the expense of honest players. And with the information in this book, anyone can easily black-hat neocheat his opponents. Thus, all cardplayers are vulnerable to financial injury by black-hat Neocheaters.

1. Understanding the Neocheater. Up until now, this book has revealed Neocheating, but not necessarily the Neocheater. An important distinction exists: Properly revealing Neocheating requires exposing the full extent it can be applied. Chapter III, for example, explains how anyone can quickly learn to stack four aces. But the Neocheater operates with quiet subtleness and rarely needs to stack powerful hands. In fact, stacking such hands is seldom desirable and often works against his extracting maximum money from card games. The complete Neocheater operates on the principle that only small but consistent, casino-like advantages are needed to extract all available money from all opponents. But traditional and classical cheaters usually strive for overwhelming short-term advantages --often far beyond the point of diminishing returns. The complete Neocheater creates advantages that safely deliver maximum longrange profits. He applies his Neocheating power in small doses so his opponents keep losing money to him game after game without ever suspecting him of cheating. The Neocheater has the following characteristics: · ·

· ·

Works in harmony with his characteristics or symptoms as explained in the Introduction on page vii. Knows all the subtle, invisible maneuvers of Neocheating, but uses only a fraction of his power to safely extract maximum, long-range money from all opponents. Operates on concepts of maximum smartness and minimum skill. Plays against opponents who are naive about Neocheating.

The earlier chapters in this book show how to detect Neocheating. But detecting the Neocheater may be more difficult -- his strategy of subtly using Neocheating makes his moves appear natural and completely normal.


The Introduction to this book speculates that many card games will be damaged or even destroyed as Neocheating spreads. The Introduction also speculates that the information in this book will eventually eliminate most card cheating. But perhaps a third alternative exists: While most card cheating techniques, including most Neocheating, may eventually be eliminated, the low-profile Neocheater might never be caught or even suspected. Indeed, he could quietly rule the card tables without creating any paranoia or suspicion among his opponents. And most dangerously, he considers Neocheating no more wrong than bluffing or normal card deception. Concepts for winning maximum money in poker without cheating are identified and developed in Wallace's book, Poker, A Guaranteed Income for Life by Using the Advanced Concepts of Poker. That book develops 120 Advanced Concepts along with a concept called the Maximum-Win Approach. All Advanced-Concept (A-C) players [ 34 ] use the Maximum-Win Approach, but so does the Neocheater. While the following paragraph quoted from Wallace's Poker Manual describes the Advanced-Concept player using the Advanced Concepts, that same paragraph could also describe the Neocheater using Neocheating: The Advanced -Concept player plays solely for his own benefit. He is not a gam bler because he bets only when the odds favor him. By contrast, gamblers bet money at unfavorable odds and eventually lose all the money they risk. The Advanced -Concept player cannot lose because he functions like a casino; he fixes the odds permanently in his favor by using the Advanced Concepts and eventually wins all the money that all the gamblers risk. With constant hard effort in applying the Advanced Concepts, anyone can consistently win money in poker. But with little effort in applying Neocheating, anyone can consistently win money in any card game. The Advanced-Concept (A-C) player, however, is honest; the Neocheater is dishonest. Nevertheless, neither player can be beaten over the long term because they both fix the odds in their favor. In addition to both being certain winners, The Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater have other similar characteristics. Both maintain low profiles. Neither uses the full force of his winning power. And by operating below full power, each gradually extracts maximum money from all opponents. Furthermore, the Neocheater can enhance his profits by actually using various Advanced-Concepts for -· · · · · · · · ·

increasing the betting stakes and pace planting the desired emotions in opponents developing congenial relationships with valuable losers creating attractive atmospheres in profitable games controlling money situations (e.g., credit, cash flow) influencing and controlling the house rules encouraging loose and poor play creating nonthreatening images and concealing winnings forcing winners out of the game


· ·

holding losers in the game detecting and exposing other cheaters.

While adopting many characteristics of the Advanced-Concept player, the Neocheater differs markedly from other cheaters. For example, traditional or common cheaters must constantly worry about and concentrate on their cheating techniques as they press for maximum advantages. They usually strive for big killings. By contrast, the Neocheater casually and easily gives himself lesser but safe, casino-like advantages that let him gradually extract maximum money from everyone. Consider the differences among the following three cheaters: Stan Smith is a municipal property inspector for a large midwestern city. He is also a crude, traditional cheater who st ruggles to cheat in almost every hand he plays. He constantly executes blatant and dangerous cheating ploys, such as switching cards and using marked cards. Much gall is needed to pull those crude ploys, and Stan feels the pressure. In fact, he worries so much about getting caught that he often feels relief when he loses a big pot in which he has cheated. Moreover, Stan cannot concentrate on his cardplaying as he is constantly consumed with worry about being caught and publicly castigated -- perhaps even physically assaulted -- because of his cheating. ... Stan is a loser and his cheating makes him lose even more. Jim Butler is a full -time classical cheater from El Paso, Texas. He possesses much skill that took years to master. He is forty -two years old, bu t looks sixty. Although maintaining a dignified and prosperous appearance, Jim endures great pressure while performing at high stakes. He constantly presses for big killings to survive. Indeed, his whole life is centered around cheating and finding victims . He cannot settle down; instead he must constantly run from games and victims he has fleeced and then travel to find new high -stake games for more quick killings. He cannot find games often enough and constantly worries about hustling enough new opponents . And he worries about seeing the same face twice. Indeed, he has become somewhat paranoid. Also, traveling and living expenses add to Jim's worries. Aside from his strenuous, worrisome life and belying his prosperous appearance, Jim is far from being fina ncially secure. In fact, he lives with constant anxiety, feeling at times he is only one step from being a hobo. Professor Arthur G. Gallbreath teaches consumer economics at a prestigious Eastern university. He has been mentioned as a possible Nobel laure ate. He is also a Neocheater. Once a week he plays in a local, high -stake poker game. His winnings average $1200 per game. Yet, Professor Gallbreath could easily rip $10,000 from the game in one night with big score, cheating setups that he is perfectly ca pable of executing. But unlike Jim Butler who always tries for maximum kills, Dr. Gallbreath never does. Big killings would quickly eliminate his opponents and destroy his game. Instead, the Professor devotes a few easy hours each week to collect sure and consistent profits. In the long run, he garners higher net profits from poker than does Mr. Butler. He has no expenses and apparently leads a relaxed, normal life. And everyone in his game likes him. Moreover, he is a respected member of his community. Pro fessor Gallbreath does, however, spend thousands of dollars a year on visits to his psychiatrist and increasingly disappears on drinking benders. 131

2. The Advanced-Concept Player Versus the Neocheater. The Advanced-Concept (A-C) player achieves his unbeatable advantages through hard work. The Neocheater achieves his unbeatable advantages through easy Neocheating. The Advanced-Concept player represents the ultimate evolution of honest poker. The Neocheater represents the ultimate evolution of dishonest cheating. Thus, in a sense, the Advanced Concepts and Neocheating are opposites. Still they both result in extracting maximum money from opponents and are linked by the same basic principle -- the Maximum-Win approach. Until recently, only the Advanced-Concept player would incorporate and apply the Maximum-Win approach. And only the Advanced-Concept player could win a steadily increasing income from poker. But the evolution of cheating has produced the Neocheater. By using easy and invisible Neocheating techniques, the cheater can now base his poker strategy on the Maximum-Win approach to win as consistently as the Advanced-Concept player. The diverted concentration involved in using traditional cheating techniques and the extraordinary skill involved in using classical cheating techniques simply do not allow most traditional or classical cheaters enough capacity or time to think about winning long term, game after game. But the Neocheater with his easy, subtle attack has both the capacity and time to think and act long term. Past cheaters have sweated and worked for their gains, but the Neocheater collects his gains with ease and relaxation. And the long-range, more subtle Maximum-Win approach makes his cheating even easier and safer to execute. Indeed, Neocheating becomes a simple, invisible tool for garnering money from opponents.... From the smallest penny-ante game to the largest table-stake game, all money eventually flows to the Neocheater. His key weapon is Neocheating. Both the Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater strive to maintain their longterm advantages; they never compromise their advantages for the sake of others. They share their advantages with no one; both play solely for their own benefit. They are not gamblers; both set the odds in their favor. Gamblers bet money at unfavorable odds and eventually lose all the money they risk. Poor players and most traditional cheaters are gamblers who eventually lose everything they risk. The Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater are not gamblers; they eventually win everything that the gambling players risk. Both the Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater direct all their actions toward winning maximum money. They never give anything away or help others without the motive of eventual profit. But they treat their opponents with care and respect; their opponents are their sole sources of income -- their sole assets.

a. Exploiting Emotions of Opponents


The Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater direct their reactions and actions to the same principle -- to win maximum money. The only difference is that one extracts money honestly while the other extracts money by cheating. But both the Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater purposely evoke emotions in opponents that cause those opponents to play a looser, happier, and poorer game. Each also strives to evoke carefree and pleasant emotions in opponents to keep them less concerned and less aware of their losses. But at times the Advanced-Concept player may evoke negative emotions in a financ ially undesirable player (e.g., a steady winner) to upset him, causing him to play poorly or even to leave the game. The Neocheater, on the other hand, seldom if ever needs to evoke negative emotions in opponents. Against good players he simply extracts their money by neocheating them while striving to keep all opponents happy and unsuspicious. The Advanced-Concept player and the Neocheater recognize and exploit the misguided attitudes and erroneous actions of their opponents. Some of those exploitable attitudes and actions are summarized in the table on page 155. That table also contrasts the attitudes of ordinary players and cheaters to Advanced-Concept players and Neocheaters.

Table 4 General Attitudes of Players and Cheaters Situation

Poor Player (loser)

A-C Player (winner)

Crude Cheater (loser)

Neocheater (winner)

Poker game

A relaxing mental diversion to escape reality.

A mental discipline requiring full focus on reality.

A situation to establish big-win cheating setups.

A situation to establish favorable casinolike odds for steady, long-term winning.

Evaluation of a play

Winning the pot is most important.

Playing the hand properly is most important.

Winning when cheating is most important.

Making odds favorable is most important.

Winner or loser

Play according to winnings or losses.

Never be influenced by winnings or losses.

Cheat more frequently (and more carelessly) when losing.

Neocheat consistently if winning or losing.

Streaks of luck

Chances or odds are influenced by previous events. Luck

Past means nothing, except for the psychological effects it has on

Believes bad luck, not poor poker concentration causes losses.

Does not consider luck. Considers only his advantages from Neocheating.


runs in cycles.


Wild games

Such games require less skill and are scorned by "good" players.

Wild or complex games require more skill and benefit good players.

Cheating is less effective in wild or complex games.

Wild and complex games increase opportunities to neocheat at improved odds.

Play past quitting time

Chances of winning decrease.

Advantages for good player increase as opponents get careless and think less.

Burned out from worry and pressures. Chances of winning decrease in late hours.

Relaxed and confident -remains fresh and alert during late hours.

Rule violations by opponents

Enforce rules equally.

Interpret rules equitably, but enforce less rigidly against weak players.

Carefully abides by decisions about rules to avoid suspicion.

Encourages rule violations that help obscure his Neocheating distortions.

Opponents' errors such as betting out of turn

Scold or penalize the culprit.

Benefits the good player. Encourages sloppy play.

Becomes upset by any action that interferes with his plans.

Does not faze the relaxed Neocheater.


Throw any cheater out of game.

If a cheater is a loser, say nothing and let him play.

Upset by any competition.

Drains cheaters by neocheating them.


Unaware of his existence.

Get him out of the game.

Unaware of his existence.

Get him out of the game.

b. Controlling Winnings The Neocheater, like the Advanced-Concept player, designs games to his maximum advantage by controlling the game, its players, and the money flow. The Neocheater wants to win maximum money; and like the Advanced-Concept player, he must be careful not to win too much too quickly. Uncontrolled winning can arouse angry suspicion, drive out valuable losers, or even destroy the game. The Neocheater, like the Advanced-Concept player, thinks long range. Consider, for instance, the following two examples: Example A: Opponent loses $1000 to the Neocheater during one big night, becomes angry and permanently quits the game. Net worth to Neocheater = $1000. Example B: Opponent loses to the Neocheater an average of $300 each week throughout the year. Net worth to Neocheater = $15,000 per year. 134

Example B demonstrates the Maximum-Win approach, which is not only more profitable but is generally an easier, more pleasant way to extract money from opponents. To use the Maximum-Win approach, the Neocheater shifts the odds only slightly in his favor by using the easiest, safest, and most subtle Neocheating techniques (e.g., perhaps by knowing the opponents hole cards each time he deals). [ 35 ] The Neocheater's Maximum-Win, high-frequency, low-intensity approach is opposite to that of the traditional cheater's low-frequency, high-intensity approach.

c. Handling Winners and Losers Unlike the Advanced-Concept player who tries to drive steady winners from his game, the Neocheater often welcomes winning players as they can help balance and camouflage the Neocheater's attack. He can, for example, neocheat to drain money from those steady winners without directly attacking the big losers, thus helping to balance the money flow and stabilize the game. But like the Advanced-Concept player, the Neocheater tries to keep his losing opponents happy while extracting their money. He may at times stack moraleboosting winning hands for valuable losers to keep them from quitting the game. Or he may stack winning hands for players who are getting upset over his steady winnings and perhaps even suspecting him of cheating. Dealing a few winning powerhouses to suspicious players usually makes them forget their suspicions.

d. Keeping a Low Profile Like the Advanced-Concept player, the Neocheater tries to conceal or deemphasize his winning position by projecting a low profile. When possible, he even tries to appear as a loser. Also, like the Advanced-Concept player, the Neocheater conceals the following facts to avoid arousing unfavorable feelings or suspicions: Facts

Methods to Conceal

Easiness of game

Never mention the poor quality of poker played in any game. Praise skills of opponents.


Never discuss personal winnings. After each game, report less than actual winnings or more than actual losses. But exaggerate only to believable extents. Never reveal long-term winnings. Conceal affluence by driving an old car to the game.

Tight play

Fold cards without comment or excuses. Make wild or looseappearing plays whenever the investment odds are favorable.

Good play

Never explain the true strategy behind a play. Instead, give erroneous


reasoning for strategy. Never brag-- downgrade own performance. Control over game

Assume a humble but assertive attitude.

e. Controlling the Money Flow The Neocheater, like the Advanced-Concept player, works to increase his opponents' willingness to lose money while increasing the money flow without damaging or breaking up the game. In most games, the majority of players will initially oppose higher stakes. The Neocheater, therefore, may use more subtle ways to increase the money flow. Increasing the betting pace rather than the betting stakes, for example, will subtly but effectively increase the money flow. And a faster betting pace usually increases excitement in a way that appeals to most players. In poker, the Neocheater may increase the pace by introducing game and betting modifications such as twists (extra draw cards), split pots (high-low), early bets, additional cards, novel games, wild cards, table stakes or pot limit. Not only can he easily work such modifications into games by using various Advanced Concepts described in Wallace's Poker Manual, but he can also control the money flow by using other Advanced Concepts.

f. Using the Advanced Concepts The Neocheater may choose to apply any number of the 120 Advanced Concepts taught in Wallace's Poker Manual. By contrast, the techniques of the traditional or classical cheater are too distracting or difficult to allow effective use of the Advanced Concepts to play a good game. That inability to play a good game is why most cheaters end up losers. Neocheating, on the other hand, is so safe and easy that a player can concentrate on executing good card strategy while simultaneously Neocheating. And interestingly, the better the Neocheater plays, the less he needs to neocheat. Neocheating requires little effort, whereas good poker strategy requires concentrated effort. In either case, simultaneously neocheating and executing various Advanced Concepts in any ratio will deliver consistent winnings. Other Advanced Concepts that can enhance the Neocheater's advantage are, for example, keeping a friendly attitude towards players, maintaining a healthy game, keeping notes and charts on opponents' reactions to various situations and hands. And most importantly, the Neocheater can use the Advanced Concepts to markedly increase the money size of his game, often by 100 times or more from its initial levels. In many ways, the Neocheater acts like the Advanced-Concept player: The Neocheater keeps a low profile and disguises his actions to prevent suspicion. When profitable, he is promiscuously friendly. He conceals facts about his poker income, drives old cars to the game, lies about his performance, minimizes or conceals his


winnings. He is scrupuously fair in settling all disputes while using the Advanced Concepts to become the most trusted person in the game. He acts in a carefree, pleasant, and relaxed manner to loosen up opponents. And at times, he might even accept other cheaters in his game (if they are not too obvious or are not Neocheaters), because they can be good sources of income and can deflect suspicion away from him. By contrast, traditional cheaters fear other cheaters and are often paranoid about being cheated themselves. But the Neocheater has no fear of traditional cheaters or their cheating. He can wipe them out whenever he chooses. A Neocheater can apply any of the 120 Advanced Concepts to any degree. Some of the Advanced Concepts are easy to apply. Others, however, require hard work that demand concentrated discipline, thought, and control -- the essence of good playing. But the essence of Neocheating is its easiness. Most Neocheaters, therefore, are not interested in hard work and apply only the easiest of the Advanced Concepts -- those concepts that most easily enhance their style and Maximum-Win approach. In any case, the Neocheater usually tries to extract maximum long-range money from his opponents. He avoids winning too fast by Neocheating in small, subtle doses to win quietly and safely, game after game. The Neocheater tries to keep everyone as happy as possible while gradually extracting money. To minimize resentments from losers, he extracts more of his winnings from the content players, the better players, and the winners. He may even neocheat for the benefit of losers (Robin Hood cheating) to more evenly distribute his opponents' losses and to keep the game financially stable. At the same time, if an opponent is a financial liability or harmful to the game, the Neocheater can repeatedly attack him until he is broke and driven from the game. Moreover, the Neocheater is cunning. He may play for hours and not win a single hand. But all the while, he will be neocheating for others -- transfering money from harmful players (other cheaters, big winners, good players) to big losers and poor players. Then, when the time is right, he will quietly extract his share of winnings for the evening. ...Neocheating is the easiest and safest way to extract maximum money from any game. And finally, the Neocheater may control several games or even a network of games. ...Neocheating is that easy.

g. Combining the Advanced Concepts with Neocheating Only two certain winning techniques exist: (1) using the Advanced Concepts and (2) using Neocheating. Any honest player wins in proportion to the extent he applies the Advanced Concepts. Likewise, any cheater wins in proportion to the extent he applies Neocheating. But a cheater applying Neocheating is not a Neocheater until he grasps and uses certain Advanced Concepts, namely those concepts involving the long-range, Maximum-Win approach as described in this chapter.


The ultimate evolution of good playing without cheating is the Advanced Concepts. The ultimate evolution of cheating is Neocheating. A blend of those two ultimate evolutions creates a terrifying player called the Neocheater -- the most dangerous threat ever to invade the card tables.

3. The Ultimate Neocheater. Most Neocheaters will not cheat when they are on a hot streak or winning naturally. They may play the entire evening without cheating. Most will neocheat only when needed to assure that their cardplaying sessions are financially worthwhile. But the ultimate Neocheater never cheats for himself. Instead, he neocheats only to transfer money from strong, good players to weak, poor players. During his deal, the ultimate Neocheater will, in a sense, Robin Hood cheat for the poor players, using them to drain the good players. After transferring money from strong players to weak players, the ultimate Neocheater then plays legitimate but superior poker to easily win that money from those weak players. That indirect method of cheating is the shrewdest of all ways for a cheater to extract money from opponents. And as with white-hat Neocheating (described in the previous chapter), he need not be overly subtle when cheating for the benefit of losers. Unlike other Neocheaters, however, he must be a relatively good player to legitimately extract the money once he has transferred it to the poor players. Often the only way to discover Neocheating is to observe that when a particular player deals he seemingly makes omniscient or illogical bets that uncannily turn to his advantage. And those advantages cause him to win too frequently and too much when he deals. But how can anyone discover the ultimate Neocheater? When cheating, he is actually losing. Moreover, when cheating, he is not gaining any direct advantages for himself as he delivers unbeatable advantages to weak players and losers. And weak players winning from strong players is almost always a "crowdpleasing" event. Those good players extract money from the weak players game after game. So almost everyone likes to see weak players win from strong players. That way, those weak or easy players will remain in the game with extra money to lose. In addition, the weak players themselves will gain euphoric satisfactions from beating strong players. Of course, the ultimate Neocheater eventually ends up with all the money. But ironically, when he cheats, his opponents are the happiest as he builds the weak players' hopes and egos. Only after he stops cheating does the ultimate Neocheater begin winning for himself. By "helping" the losers, the ultimate Neocheater creates a perfect rationalization to justify his cheating: he never wins when he cheats. Still, he is not a white-hat Neocheater (who ironically will win at times when he is cheating while the ultimate Neocheater will never win while cheating). The white-hat Neocheater is honest since he cheats only cheaters. And when cheating, he never seizes advantages for himself at the expense of honest players. The ultimate Neocheater, on the other hand, is a 138

dishonest (black-hat) cheater because he cheats honest players in order to gain unnatural advantages for himself -- albeit indirect advantages through the poor players and losers. By driving the good players from the game while temporarily enriching the poor players, the ultimate Neocheater eliminates his competition and thus his need to cheat. He then extracts money from those weak players -- his "regular" players -simply by playing good poker. The ultimate Neocheater works to populate his game with weak players. He uses Neocheating only to drain good players that may enter his game. After driving them from the game, he has no reason to cheat. Still, at times, he may welcome good players in order to drain their money with Neocheating. The ultimate Neocheater creates an illusion of removing himself from cheating by never winning when he cheats. Instead he arranges for poor players to win from good players so that later he can legitimately drain that money from those poor players. Neocheating is the ultimate concept of cheating. And the ultimate Neocheater is the ultimate application of that concept. Yet, even the ultimate Neocheater can be detected: First you must be aware of his indirect attack and then sense that weak players too often win big hands from good players when that ultimate Neocheater deals. One certain defense against the ultimate Neocheater is simply refuse to ante whenever he deals. You can then win from the Neocheater's retinue of weak players when he is not dealing. By continuing such action, you embarrass the ultimate Neocheater and leave him unable to attack you. And by remaining in the game, you reduce or eliminate his profits. That tactic will sooner or later make him leave and seek other easier, more profitable games.

4. The Forbidden Question. The contents of this book mandate the asking of the forbidden question: Why not allow cheating in card games as a new dimension of skill and strategy? Is not cheating simply another variation of the deceptive strategies that are accepted as integral parts of most card games played for money and prestige? Why not allow deceptive cheating? Why not allow it just as bluffing and other deceptive ploys are allowed? Actually, anything is allowable if mutually agreed upon. Deception is a universally agreed upon feature of many games, especially poker. So why not agree to allow cheating? The only reason that cheating cannot be allowed is that it has an openended nature -- it has no limits. Bluffing and deception, for example, are limited by the effectiveness of ingenuity and guile. Likewise, illegal cheating is also limited by the effectiveness of ingenuity and guile. But legal cheating would be boundless because the need for skilled, subtle cheating would be gone . . . all kinds of crude cheating and blatant stealing would escalate rapidly to destroy any card game.


Openly accepted cheating would cause such chaos and anarchy in card games that they would rapidly become unmanageable and unplayable. Every game needs a limitation, a cutoff point. For instance, a polevaulter cannot wear miniature rockets on his back --a limitation to keep that sport playable. The football player cannot wear steel-spiked shoulder pads -- a limitation to keep football playable. The cardplayer cannot cheat -- a limitation to keep card games playable.

5. The Final Showdown. In the past few years, the quality of poker players has improved markedly, especially in public casino poker. But the Advanced-Concept (A-C) player is still very rare. And although more Advanced-Concept players are developing, they probably will always be rare because full application of the Advanced Concepts requires hard work and constant discipline (but actually, little skill). In private games, the Advanced-Concept player patiently develops control over the game, the rules, and his opponents. He invests many hours in studying, analyzing, and taking notes about his opponents. He develops his games over long periods of time, even years, to steadily increase their pace and stakes while striving to reach the full profit potential of each game. He works hard for his winnings. ... Most poker players, however, would rather take their chances with more luck and less work. Who wants to work that hard to win when it's time to re lax? most players subconsciously rationalize. That is why AdvancedConcept players are rare. The Neocheater, on the other hand, will become increasingly common because Neocheating is easy and requires little sustained effort. Moreover, the Neocheater can move into any private game of any size and start winning immediately. Neocheating is a comfortable, fast, and easy way to make money or gain prestige. Many cardplayers, therefore, will prefer to use Neocheating to extract money rather than to put forth the effort required to play well enough to win equivalent money. Thus in private games, players will encounter Neocheaters with increasing frequency. And Neocheaters will multiply so extensively that they may eventually link together in collusion pacts among private games as they are already doing in public poker. On the other hand, players will seldom if ever encounter the rare Advanced-Concept player. Nevertheless, if a Neocheater did run across an Advanced-Concept player in a private game, he would find that the game belongs to that Advanced-Concept player who usually has a substantial investment of time and effort in tailoring that game to his maximum advantage. Indeed, the AdvancedConcept player will strenuously protect his game as his most valuable asset. Neocheaters are the only cheaters the Advanced-Concept player fears. He fears Neocheaters because, if they choose, they can quickly drain money to break valuable players and destroy the game. In addition, the Advanced-Concept player cannot beat certain Neocheaters. He will, therefore, try to drive them from his game using whitehat Neocheating or the harassment methods described in Chapter X.


Most Neocheaters will quickly leave private games in which an Advanced-Concept player is pressuring them because playing under constant stress contradicts their nature of seeking easy money. Instead of taking the abuses and pressures applied by the Advanced-Concept player, most Neocheaters will simply find other games that have no Advanced-Concept player to interfere with their easy-going money extraction. But what happens when the Advanced-Concept player encounters the Neocheater in high-stake public poker? Consider the following situation in a world-class poker tournament played in a Las Vegas casino: Forty-two players have entered the freeze-out hold 'em tournament, each paying a $15,000 entry fee. The last surviving player wins all the money -- over one-half million dollars. After three days, only two players remain in the tournament -- an Advanced-Concept player (John Finn) and a well-known professional poker player. That professional player is also a Neocheater who has made a colluding arrangement with one of the dealers involving an unbeatable form of Neocheating (as described in anecdote B of Chapter I). Through memorized cards, invisible blind shuffles, false riffles, and false cuts, the dealer always knows the nine cards to come off the deck for each round of play. During the play, John can sense their collusion, but cannot accuse them because their cheating is invisible and appears completely natural. Moreover, John realizes that even if he could crack their collusion code, he would still lose because unlike most collusion codes that are one dimensional (codes that indicate only present values of hands), their code is two dimensional in that the dealer not only knows both the Neocheater's hand and John's hand at every moment, but he knows all the cards yet to be dealt. Thus that dealer can plan ahead with perfect knowledge and guide the Neocheater with flawless strategy. Without knowing the cards to be dealt, John has no way to read or forecast the dealer's strategy. Indeed, in such collusion situations, the Neocheater becomes a more-than-perfect player because his moves are perfect through the dealer's knowing every hole card, and his strategy is flawless through the dealer's knowing all the cards still to be dealt. To beat that kind of cheating, a player must not only read everyone's hole cards perfectly, but he must also precisely foretell all the cards to be dealt. And no one can precisely foretell cards without cheating. Thus, John concludes that against such Neocheating collusion, he cannot win. And how can he accuse his adversaries of invisible cheating? No evidence exists. The only possibilities that John has of winning are to (1) refuse to play when that dealer takes his turn, insist on another dealer, and hope that the new dealer will not collude with the Neocheater, (2) meet privately with the dealer during a break and ask him to stop colluding, or (3) find the dealer's price to flash false signals at crucial moments to bankrupt (tap out) the Neocheater. In other words, neocheat the Neocheater. ...John Finn selected option 2 and lost the tournament. He resolved to use option 3 next time.


Neocheating begets Neocheating, and Neocheaters beget Neocheaters. Where will it end?


[ 34 ] The Advanced-Concept player is also referred to as the A-C player.

[ 35 ] The Neocheater may use his full power as in Example A if the game is a onetime affair, or if he is facing a one-time opponent, or if the game is destined to permanently disband anyway. In such cases, the Neocheater would choose to win maximum money -- the $1000 -- in one night rather than, for example, $300 per session for only one or two sessions. Or he may selectively use his full Neocheating power to drive potential troublemakers, cheaters, or even another Neocheater from the game.


Chapter XII THE NEO-TECH DISCOVERY The Neo-Tech discovery evolved from the earlier discovery of Neocheating. In a sense, Neocheating was not a discovery but an identification of elegantly sophisticated techniques of card cheating that met two criteria: (1) required little effort or skill, and (2) were undetectable or unassailable as dishonest. The effects of Wallace's identification of Neocheating are similar to the effects his earlier identification of the Advanced Concepts of Poker had on the poker world during the 1970s: Like Neocheating, various Advanced Concepts of Poker had been unknowingly used not only by winning poker players but by unbeatable strategists beyond the card tables. And the extent that they randomly used the various Advanced Concepts was the extent that they won. With the 1968 publication of Wallace's book, "Poker, A Guaranteed Income for Life", the Advanced Concepts (a total of 120 advantage levers) were identified for the first time and systematically gathered into one source. That gathering and publishing of all the Advanced Concepts into one book produced big profit increases for those players who had acquired Wallace's book. As a result, the number of professional players, competitive players, successful women players, as well as high-stake games and tournament games escalated dramatically since the Advanced Concepts of Poker were first published. And now, the 1980 publication of "Neo-Tech" (Neocheating) is having an even more profound impact on poker (and other card games), especially on high-stake casino and public-card-club games. Moreover, the effects are spreading into private poker, particularly into high-stake games. But, at the same time, a counterbalancing phenomenon is occurring: Everyone who learns about Neocheating automatically learns how to effectively nullify all cheating. Thus, the continued distribution of Neocheating information will at first greatly increase undetectable cheating, but eventually will ironically eliminate all cheating. After identifying the Neocheating concepts, Frank Wallace made an even more important discovery by extending those concepts beyond cards -- into business, politics, social relationships, and other areas of life. His discovery is called the NeoTech discovery. Once the concepts of Neocheating are fully understood, their application beyond cards becomes limitless. And more importantly, all Neo-Tech practitioners (who abound with impunity in most areas of life) become fully visible to those who understand Neocheating. Moreover, anyone understanding the concepts of Neocheating can render Neocheaters harmless. Neocheating concepts used in business and other areas of life are so exquisitely subtle that the initial effect is shocking on realizing the enormous advantages one gains by using those concepts beyond cards.


Neocheating Beyond Cards Neocheating beyond cards involves gaining easy advantages and power over others through combinations of techniques that meet two criteria: (1) easy to execute, and (2) not vulnerable to detection or assailable as dishonest. Once those two criteria are established, Neocheating formats can then be established in any area of life. With such formats, a person not only gleans unbeatable advantages over others, but commands easy shortcuts to profits and power.... Those who use Neocheating formats to achieve wealth or power are called Neo-Tech practitioners. Examples of master Neo-Tech practitioners are illustrated on page 153 and in Appendix A on page 168. Other examples are summarized in table 5 on page 178. Master Neo-Tech practitioners who use subtle, invisible Neocheating concepts to maximum effectiveness can gain enormous power and wealth. Such practitioners range from the President of the United States to the presidents of international banking conglomerates. But anyone can use the Neocheating concepts to gain profits to any chosen degree, ranging from business people neocheating customers (e.g., selling unneeded or fraudulent insurance policies), professional people neocheating clients (e.g., doctors promoting unneeded surgery), husbands neocheating wives (e.g., psychologically or physically abusing spouses into dependence, then into submission and subservience), women neocheating men (e.g., deceiving for entrapment and wealth extraction), teachers neocheating students (e.g., dishonestly attacking value producers to usurp unearned power); parents neocheating children (e.g., destructive manipulation for social images). One major benefit of understanding Neocheating beyond cards is the rapid identification of Neo-Tech practitioners who surround everyone in almost every area of life. Once identified, Neocheaters can be prevented from diminishing one's own well-being. Perhaps the most startling benefit of understanding Neocheating occurs when viewing network TV news. With knowledge of Neo-Tech, a person becomes acutely aware of the steady stream of Neocheaters (TV commentators, news editors, sociologists, politicians, educators, nutritionists, faddists, mystical gurus, and religious proselytizers) who constantly diminish everyone's life. With the concepts of Neocheating, however, a person not only can nullify those Neocheaters, but can transfer their usurped power from them to himself with honest effective Neo-Tech techniques. For example, manipulating the ego of a Neocheating politician or bureaucrat to remove coercive government regulations that are damaging a company's productive capacity is one example of using the Neo-Tech discovery honestly -- of using White-Hat Neocheating. The three possible approaches for using the Neo-Tech Discovery are the low-power approach, the high-power approach, and the Neothink/Neopower approach:


THE THREE APPROACHES 1. The Low-Power Approach: Neo-Tech is used defensively to avoid loses to Neocheaters. The "Neo-Tech Discovery" reveals (in Parts Two and Three) detailed, specific techniques for the low-power approach, including the original White-Hat Techniques that are effective, ethical, and honest. 2. The High-Power Approach: Neo-Tech is used offensively to gain advantages and profits -- in cards or beyond. The "Neo-Tech Discovery" also reveals (in Part One) detailed techniques for the high-power approach, including the Black-Hat Techniques that are unethical but ravagingly effective. Yet, with Neo-Tech information, a person can safely defend himself against Black-Hat Neocheating and all other forms of cheating. 3. The Neothink/Neopower Approach: The Neo-Tech Discovery is used not only to identify and nullify Neocheaters, but to gain honest profits as a result of Neocheaters. The following table summarizes various Neo-Tech formats that profitably counter Neocheaters: NEOCHEATING AREA



Identifying Neocheaters and understanding their techniques provide valuable knowledge that delivers larger profits and decreased losses through more beneficially accurate decisions.


Rapid identification of Neocheaters allows an accurate evaluation of literature, TV shows, news programming, media events, movies ... permitting more accurate and profitable decisions. Understanding Neocheating lets one quickly identify the 180 degree inversion of crucial values by devious business practices, political or social demagoguery, religious doctrines, and mystical illusions.

Politics and Education

Knowing the Neocheating techniques of all politicians and many educators provides a powerful tool not only for protection, but for profiting from the machinations of politicians, governments, and educators.

Religion and Mysticism

Understanding Neocheating provides startling realizations of how Neocheating is the essence of mysticism . . . and how most religious and mystical leaders are expert Neocheaters. That understanding is necessary not only for avoiding the lifeconsuming influences of religion and mysticism, but for


gaining maximum happiness, well-being, and profits from life. Personal Relations

The Neo-Tech Discovery provides a rapid sorting mechanism for discarding destructive relationships and for winning beneficial relationships that deliver profits and happiness.


Knowledge of Neo-Tech allows one to reject, for example, most warnings by government "scientists" of cancer risks with their accompanying regulations (e.g., the banning of cyclamates). Neocheating with science damages the productive segments of life and diminishes everyone's wellbeing.... Knowledge of Neo-Tech permits valid value judgments and delivers peace of mind that Neocheaters constantly seek to undermine.

The Neocheating concepts are not only easy, practical tools for profits, but are crucial tools for thinking. Those concepts allow a person to identify and nullify Neocheaters who have beguiled human life for three-thousand years. Without understanding Neocheating, a person has no way of thinking about Neocheaters or of realizing how they constantly extract values from unknowledgeable people. Without those thinking tools to identify Neocheaters people can only suffer in silent frustration as their lives and dreams are drained by Neocheaters. But the supreme value of the Neocheating concepts is that those new thinking tools will be the cutting edge for rejecting and eventually eliminating the power of government bureaucrats, religious leaders, political leaders, dishonest businessmen, external authorities, and all other Neocheaters. The concepts of Neocheating as revealed by the Neo-Tech Discovery are among the most powerful thinking tools for future prosperity.

Chapter XIII NEOCHEATING BEYOND CARDS Neocheating in Business, Politics, Religion and Social Relationships The first two thirds of this book teach the techniques of Neocheating specific to cards while identifying the differences between Neocheating and all other cheating. The specific Neocheating techniques for cards provide the concrete base needed to


understand the concepts behind Neocheating. By understanding those concepts, the wider applications of Neocheating become obvious in the last four chapters. Also, as becomes obvious toward the end of this book, the concepts of Neocheating can be used in any area of life to usurp money, power, respect, or love. But in the long run, people who extract values by Neocheating become dependent on cheating as they undermine their competence and self-esteem by embezzling rather than earning their values. The careful observer will recognize that by far the highest percentage of people involved in building false self-esteems to justify their existences are those pursuing careers in politics and religion. Such careers are by nature antiproductive and depend on Neocheating the public to extract money, respect, and power.


APPENDIX A Cheating as a Metaphor What positive value can be found in card cheating? One magnificent value: Card cheating is a superb metaphor for identifying and classifying dishonest people . . . The traditional cheater is, for example, the crude sneak thief. He is also the small-time bureaucrat or politician on the take. He needs little skill and much gall to extract his living. But he lives in constant danger of being caught in the act and subjected to the consequences. The classical cheater is, for example, the elegant con-artist thief. He is also the respected technocrat who, for example, helps develop weapons for a repressive government. Application of his skills (that took years to polish or develop) lets him extract a "good" living. His dishonesty usually remains unseen and uncalled by those who surround him as he cheats countless people out of their assets and lives. The Neocheater is, for example, the subtle executive thief who climbs to a high-paid corporate position by deceptive machinations rather than by productive efforts. He is also the religious leader who gleans a glorious living by promoting self-sacrifice among the multitudes. And the ultimate Neocheater is the politician gracing the highest office. He usurps a sumptuous living, enormous power, and a huge ego trip by converting productive assets of the earners into non-productive waste for the "public good" through the invisible manipulations of government force (e.g., taxes and regulations). His techniques require neither skill nor effort: he is simply shrewd and subtle enough to keep most people from realizing that he is constantly neocheating them -- constantly draining their lives and assets. And most dangerously, he considers his neocheating as necessary for the "good of all". Neocheaters are by far the deadliest menace to honest and productive people, everywhere.


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