A couple decades ago, I had my first taste of cilantro.

For the uninitiated, cilantro is a leafy herb with a unique flavor — impossible to describe. People either love it or they hate it. While it was used around the world, it hadn't made a big impact in the Midwest until the '90s.

The first time I tasted it, admittedly, wasn't sure how I felt about it.

I was invited aboard the Coast Guard Cutter Mobile Bay to cover an ice-breaking mission for the Advocate.

At the time, the Mobile Bay had one of the best chefs in the Coast Guard. His reputation was known far and wide — I believe he eventually went on to teach other CG chefs after his time in Sturgeon Bay.

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The day I was on board, he served a stir fry for lunch. I remember the entire scene — the bright day, the loud grumbling of breaking ice under the boat, and the aroma of that stir fry. When it was time to eat, I happily joined the crew. 

But a couple bites in, I hit my first cilantro leaf.

It was shocking. I couldn't identify the flavor.

While the initial taste was jarring, it wasn't terrible. It was just … different.

When I finally got a chance to talk with the chef, my first question was: what was that flavor?

Right away, he knew what I was asking, and told me all about cilantro. So, I ran out and bought a bunch and started to experiment.

After a couple meals, it had really grown on me.

I started to see it show up on restaurant dishes, particularly in Mexican, Indian and other ethnic places.

I had officially joined the “cilantro lovers” group. But there are haters out there.  For those who hate it, they say it smells like soap and tastes like crushed bugs. Gross.

There is actually some evidence that genes may play a part. According to a National Public Radio story, researchers found genes associated with how people perceive cilantro. But, it's not a hard-wired thing, they said. It is possible to have have the genetic predisposition to perceive cilantro as soapy … but still like it. 

The NPR story also pulled up a quote from famed chef Julia Child, an avowed cilantro hater. She said she'd just pick it out of her food and throw it on the floor.

If you are a cilantro hater, you have plenty of support. There are YouTube videos, Facebook pages, memes and merchandise. There's actually a website,, that celebrates people's aversion with T-shirts, haiku poetry: Cilantro is gross. 'Tis on every restaurant meal, soap and hatred gross.

I actually have friends who hate cilantro. They have enough other fine qualities that allow me to remain friends with them. But it is a fine line.

I once heard the story of a friend who was mowing his yard by an older garden, and unanticipated volunteer cilantro plants were growing there. He was overcome by the aroma.

Another friend and I went to an Indian restaurant, and, while he was enthusiastic about the food, he was limited to only a couple dishes on the buffet since all the other incorporated cilantro.

I have a friend, bless her heart, who was initially averse to the herb, but, little by little came around. She actually kind of likes it now, she said. Although she's still a little tentative, I've been able to convince her to join the cilantro lovers team.

One of my cilantro lover friends explained to my dubious friend what a versatile herb cilantro is. “You can throw a handful onto rotten fish, and it will make everything taste better.”

The herb doesn't last long, once cut. I put it in a bag with a piece of paper towel to control moisture. If you get a bunch, you have to eat it quickly. That can be a struggle if you are the only person in the house who likes it. Thankfully, I have two sons who are happy to find it in their food, and will sprinkle it on top of all kinds of dishes.

If it hadn't been for that Coast Guard chef, so many years ago, I'm not sure if my horizons would have been expanded like they were. But I'm grateful, with every taco and with every curry I eat.


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