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Everything posted by .Ric.

  1. The cylindrical shape lightning up on the PC case indicates the drive being accessed. If you have a mechanical hard drive and heard cracking noises while that light is active, I'd bet your boot drive is done for.
  2. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204592 iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014) and later iMac models can't be used as Target Display Mode displays. From the first 5K iMac onwards, it's a feature that has been discontinued. The monitor is its own only.
  3. Hold on, I derped, mine is the Ultra Gaming, not the 5, but still stands, it's the one OP's mentioned. But again, the experience I have with mine is excellent. So far done RAM OCing like a breeze, just waiting to get an aftermarket cooler to bump the core up as well. I had a B450 before this one, although not exactly the Strix one mentioned, and the lack of features between the two was and is noticeable. Not to mention there are build quality details I really appreciate with the Ultra Gaming starting from the reinforced PCIe ports to counteract sagging.
  4. the Gaming 5 Ultra Gaming which is what the OPs is clearly talking about due to the price point he's referring to. What I meant is that an X470 board by itself is not entry level compared to a B450. Surely the Gaming 7 is the better one, but making a distinction between "top B450" and "entry level X470" is misleading, since the latter is going to come out on top regardless of its relation to other X470 boards.
  5. I have the Aorus X470 and couldn't be happier, and the X470 is the better chipset of the two. I wouldn't see any reason to stick with a B450 for ten bucks less. And yeah, as others mentioned I wouldn't consider the Aorus to be entry level compared to the B450F at all.
  6. It's still a no to me. I'd never buy a 9 or 10 year old machine, regardless if it's Apple or not.
  7. imho no. Way out of date, not even receiving OS updates anymore. Either stick with Windows, or save up more and get a more recent (used) model that is currently supported.
  8. RX 580 takes the cake. Little reason to stick with the 1060 unless you're shooting for GSync No experience with the H500. Mine does 74°C peak in a S340 elite if it helps.
  9. Yeah, there are quite some gains in OCing the RAM. I bumped mine up from 2133 to 2933 MHz, scored a flat 10% FPS gain in ROTTR's benchmark, with way higher min FPS across the board. Basically, smoother experience.
  10. Alright, gave it more than a try. I loaded XMP profile, then went to Voltage Settings and set DRAM Voltage to 1.35V, DRAM Termination to 0.675V (half of it), VCore SOC(DVID) Voltage offset to +0.252V Interestingly enough, prior to applying voltage changes to SOC the BIOS showed it being running at 0.850V, reason why I set that +0.252V to reach the recommended 1.1V. However back in Windows with HWInfo64, and then confirmed in the BIOS, it ended up running at 1.2V according to the Motherboard's sensor. There's a second sensor under the CPU tab in Windows called SOC Voltage (SV12 TFN) that always showed 0.925V, regardless of the offsets I applied. From now on I'll refer the SOC Voltage being the one displayed by the Motherboard. All the runs I did had the same DRAM and Termination voltages. If anyone has any idea of why it'd gain a 0.1V more than intended with +0,252V from 0.850V, let me know. Results: 3200 MHz 1.2V SOC (+0.252V) is a big nope. It completed a single Cinebench R15 run, and at the second it gave BSOD, with error related to RAM corruption. Memory module supplier is Hynix, so rip there /shrug. I settled for 2933 MHz. Should be noted that all Cinebench runs I did with 3200, 2933 and 2133 all scored the same within the margin of error, probably the CPU is bottlenecking it since I'm running it at stock speed and voltage. 2133 MHz RAM, with base timings and voltages had the temperature cap at 76°C after several back-to-back Cinebench runs (did it for all the results below as well), idling at 37°C. Stepping down to 2933 MHz, 1.2V SOC (+0.252V), Cinebench runs later no crash whatsoever, 82°C max reached. Lowering SOC... 2933 MHz, 1.116V SOC, 81°C max, 45°C idle. 2933 MHz, 1.044V SOC, 80°C max, 43°C idle. so far no system crash at any 2933 MHz. Shall I keep lowering SOC offset?
  11. Hey everyone! I have an X470 Aorus Ultra Gaming motherboard, coupled with 2x8 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V RAM (F4-3200C16D-16GVKB) sticks (which aren't on motherboard's QVL), currently running at their base settings of 2133 MHz, 1.20V in the BIOS updated to version F3. Initially with the F2 BIOS the board came with, loading up XMP Profile1 (there's no Profile2 option) and saving the changes would not even get Windows to boot, displaying a BSOD with CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED as soon as it started (indication of RAM failing its job). Reverting to base RAM settings would get it to launch normally. Updating the BIOS to F3, loading up Profile1 would now get Windows to boot, but when put under some pressure... whatever program I'm using crashes. Again reverting to base settings would fix the issue. This is where I wondered if there was something I'm missing. In the motherboard's BIOS I have Advanced Memory Settings in which I can load XMP, change timings and so on, and Advanced Voltage Settings. Enabling Profile1 in Advanced Memory Settings sets memory multiplier to reach 3200 MHz, CAS Latency, tRCDRD, tRCDWR, tRP, tRAS to 16-18-18-18-38, Profile DDR Voltage to 1.35V. By the looks of the specs in the RAM webpage for 3200, I would say it's reading it correctly. (at stock, they are 2133 MHz, 15-15-15-15-36, 1.20V; other timings are changed as well, but those are the standard ones). However in Advanced Voltage Settings I do have another entry called DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) still set to 1.20V., even if Profile1 gets loaded. I'm having a hard time figuring out what's the difference between the two; do I need I need to change DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) in Voltage Settings as well? And what's the difference between the two? No OC done on the CPU or GPU, they're running as they were installed, full specs in signature if needed. Thanks in advance!
  12. I currently use an iPhone 6s, 128 GB. Reason why I went with the 6s three years ago was both because I thoroughly enjoyed using a 4s (which was dying), and the 6s at release was a true killer smartphone: I don't think there ever was another phone in its generation that stepped things up as much as the 6s did in 2015. 3D Touch, the A9 chip, stupidly fast storage, 2nd gen Touch ID sensor. It's now been 3 years of continued use and it has endured far better than the 4s ever did, and I don't see it going out of my pocket anytime soon. Customer support is great, that's without doubt: had battery issues in the early months and I was given a replacement unit on spot at the Store. OS updates are very consistent and last for a long time, and I have to give credit to iOS 12 for being an amazing piece of software. Even though the 6s was still blazing fast on iOS 11, it's quicker than ever now. Plus, long gone are the days of the overly-walled garden that were the old versions of iOS. It's tied down for sure, but it doesn't hurt your experience. In short, you don't feel limited by it even if you're a knowledgeable power user. Build quality is awesome too as you would expect, can't tell how mine is still in one piece for how often I dropped it (although with cover and screen film). The only complaint I have is the battery life though; it's indicated as 85% healthy, but I admit I have to worry more than I'd like about its remaining percentage. 99% of the times I have to plug it in during the day. It may be solved by replacing it, but a 15% lower capacity delta doesn't seem likely to be the reason to me. However, by how things are going with iPhone prices, I'm very sure my next one is not going to be an iPhone, or if it will, it's going to be a future-older-generation one, not a brand new one. It's true that we are expected to keep smartphones for more time in these years by how powerful they became, but still, they are more than I'd like to pay for a new smartphone. Not saying the new ones are short of being amazing products in their own right, just that I'm not willing to spend the asking price for the flagships compared to what the 6s costed me.
  13. There's nothing wrong with stock AMD coolers: to the contrary, they're amazing offerings, especially for stock operation. Intel's on the other hand...
  14. I don’t like RGB myself; either I turn it off entirely, or keep it to a static white light for cleanness.
  15. Also Pass 2 done on memtest. No errors, ran for 4 hours and a half straight.
  16. Just checked on G.Skill's website by entering the Serial Number of both sticks, they both share: Product Model Number:F4-3200C16D-16GVKB Date:2018/08/24 Memory Type:DDR4Capacity:16GB (8GBx2) Multi-Channel Kit:Dual Channel Kit Tested Speed:3200MHz Tested Latency:16-18-18-38 Tested Voltage:1.35v Registered/Unbuffered:Unbuffered Error Checking:Non-ECC SPD Speed:2133MHz SPD Voltage:1.20v Fan lncluded:No Height:42 mm / 1.65 inch Warranty:Limited Lifetime Features:Intel XMP 2.0 (Extreme Memory Profile) Ready Additional Notes:Rated XMP frequency & stability depends on MB & CPU capability. No indication on Samsung or Hynix whatsoever. Could it just be on Asus not including them in 2x8 configuration (QVL link)? Wouldn't the PC just refuse to boot at all times if the motherboard didn't like the RAM? And by the way, thanks all for the patience!
  17. It’s 2 sticks of 8 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 MHz There is F4-3200C16D-8GVKB as supported on QVL, while mine is F4-3200C16D-16GVKB basically it’s 2x4 instead of 2x8. Could that actually be? I still have to try clearing CMOS, updating BIOS and reinstalling Windows, waiting for the second pass of memtest to end.
  18. Trying out different RAM configurations in the appropriate slots So far running just 1 of them at a time still had the issue appear on shutdown/boot. I tried all ram configurations (two sticks, single stick) and the problem remained. Does that make RAM not be the issue? Memtest86 also completed a check, 1 Pass and 0 Errors, so safe to say RAM is fine I think it’s worth noting that in the last 24h (which is, time since I installed Windows for the first time) I had to run DDU a handful of times (about five) to resolve a driver conflict that Windows itself created by automatically installing a GPU driver during it’s installation, that resulted in messing up the audio output to the display’s speakers, as well as crashing the AMD Radeon Settings app. Could it be?
  19. So, just had Windows run its attempt to solve startup issues and apparently failed at it. I re-entered the BIOS, apparently it's not up to date since it's version 0318, and on Asus' website I can download version 0409. Now checking out manual for how to update it
  20. What memory? And how do I reset the BIOS? (assuming it's not reset to defaults)
  21. Hello everyone, All of a sudden my PC at intervals gets stuck at the motherboard's splash screen, where it says "Press F2 or DEL to enter UEFI BIOS". I have to note this splash screen is of a lower resolution and quality to the one I'm used to see. I am forced to hold down the power button to shut it down, and at the next boot up it somehow boots cleanly into Windows 10, even while showing me a better version of the splash screen. If I turn off and power on, it gets stuck, rinse and repeat the above. I've tried disabling Fast Boot and didn't work, reset BIOS to default settings and didn't work. Any ideas? Thanks! Later Edit, Solution: faulty motherboard, returned it and and bought a completely different one.
  22. To my understanding though the Ryzen 1600 had the Spire rather than the Stealth bundled with the 2600, which is considered a better one
  23. Hello there, thanks for replying! Sounds like waiting would be a good idea after all.
  24. Hello everyone, I've ordered the parts for my PC, including a Ryzen 5 2600 on an Asus Prime B450 Plus motherboard. I had the intention of using said CPU with its stock Wraith Stealth cooler, but while waiting I've matured the idea of going for an aftermarket cooler. I'm having a hard time though finding one that's both decent, cost effective (30-40€ range) and most importantly fitting the motherboard/AM4 socket while having enough clearance with the RAM (2 pairs of 8 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 MHz), and eventually the GPU (Sapphire Nitro RX 580 4GB) I don't have plans of overclocking the CPU, not in the immediate future at least. Thanks in advance! Ps. PC case is a S340 Elite if needed.