Reef nutrition

Julius' CDA 150 Build

Studying how to code Apex now. Comparing the following two statements from manual, I am confused shouldn't both statement end with the same "status"? But first one ends with OFF, second one ends with ON? Maybe the first statement should end with "ON" instead?

If Power EB8_3 OFF 005 Then OFF
If Power Apex OFF 005 Then ON

1st statement, as I understand means: If EB8_3 loses power, keep it in OFF status for 5 min. before ON.

2nd statement is if Apex loses power, keep it in OFF status for 5 min before ON.
My heaters cluster draws just shy of 5 amp. It is currently plugged inoutlet #7 on EB8. No issue so far but thinking to relocate to outlet #4 or #8 which can sustain up to 10amp.

Then I read some low power devices may not start correct in outlet 1-3 and 5-7. So shouldnt’t I keep heaters at its current outlet, saving outlet #4/#8 for lower power/amp devices?
Just setup my calcium reactor.

Wonder what is considered a good time for the solenoid to cycle on and off? Currently it is about 1.5 hours between two shut offs.

To increase the duration of the solenoid cycle time (less frequent switch on and off), I am thinking the following:
1. Increase target range of PH values. I am at 6.6 (OFF) and 6.8 (ON) and don't like to increase it further.
2. Decrease bubble count, right?
3. Increase effluent output, right?



Supporting Member
Yep, that's Valonia, bubble algae. Good that you can remove the disk from the tank to pick them off.
I picked off bubble algae from 2 disks a month ago. Unfortunately just noticed today that there are multiple places inside my IM 20g infested. Some are even on the surface of the sand.

What should I do now? Is it time to remove all content, replace with new stand and new rocks, only transfer corals after disks/rocks removed?

Should I replace the rocks/filters in the filter compartments?

I moved 2 fish from this tank to my 150g display about a month ago. Should I be worried about having infested my display tank?



I would get fish that eats the bubble algae and Manual removal. That’s how I keep my frag tank under control. And so far it’s been under control.

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And when you do removal, do you remove via pulling their root or just pulling out the bubbles? I go for the root.

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I use a sharp knife to cut from their bottom. I do not know they have roots?

The infested areas are in multiple new locations.

What fish eat them?



emerald crabs love them. A sailfin tang at Neptunes is tossed around tanks to eat their bubble algae. Its in the 59.99 section right now unless moved.

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I am thinking to buy a fish later today from Matt at Violet Sea Fish and Coral.

Given my quarantine tank (IM 20G) has bubble algae, could the fish living there for a 2~3 weeks carry bubble algae into my display tank later on?

I am willing to take the chance and put this new fish into the DT right away, if there is a fair chance of infecting DT with bubble algae.

Coral reefer

Staff member
Interesting read. I recall @Thales saying he didn’t believe they would release spores when smashed. Must depend on type I guess. The article does point out it’s not a given that any released spores will successfully grow into new bubbles, and they will release spores eventually if not removed or smashed anyways. So it seems you have little to lose if you smash some during removal. I also feel that it will encourage animals to eat them when they’ve been ruptured.
It's true. Depends of the specific species on when spores are actually in the bubble though. I believe for the ones we commonly see, sexual maturity is around the time when it's a third of full size.
My Cole Palmer Masterflex L/S digital pump has a slight metalic grinding noise coming from inside of the main unit. The noise occurs only when speed goes above 35 ml/min. It is present even when it runs whitout the external pump mounted.

Does anybody notice this noise too, or I need to rebuild/replace the gears inside the main unit?