Here's a brief history of old styles and accessories that have come back:

Shoulder pads: Every woman's friend in the 1980s remains an essential part of the wardrobe. But it was men who first wore them. The shoulder pad originally was intended to prevent weapons from slipping off when they were carried over the shoulder. Designers want to eliminate shoulder pads but the American shopper demands them.

Platform shoes: An early version of the platform was the chopine mentioned by Hamlet when addressing one of the court actors: "Your ladyship is nearer heaven than when I saw you last, by the altitude of a chopine." They were an inordinately high platform sole, often lifting the wearer a foot above the ground. One wag suggested they were invented by jealous Italian husbands who hoped the cumbersome shoes would keep their wives from illicit love affairs. The modern versions, called platforms and their cousin the vamp, are much easier to wear.

Lace-up boots: Here's a peren nial entry in the women's fashion arena. Bloomingdale's latest catalog pays homage to Victorian "granny boots" with a sketch next to the Donna Karan imported Italian boots. While we think of Victorians as sexually repressed, there is a theory that the lacing and unlacing is actually quite titillating. Lace-ups came back in vogue in the 1960s and early 1970s and are back in force this fall.

Hats: Credit Howard's End for the resurgence in women's hats. The crushed velvet cloche, newsboy wool cap, watchman's knit cap, beret and Juliet skullcaps are being touted from haute couture to ready to wear. None of these is a new look.

Band collar shirt: Ralph Lauren is presenting this as a new look, but actually we can credit Mark Twain. In his day shirts had a detachable collar. When removed it looks like today's banded collar shirt. Twain preferred visiting his neighbors without collar or tie. His wife constantly chided him. In response he packed a collar and tie and sent them to the neighbors with the following note: "A little while ago I visited you without my collar and tie

for about half an hour. The missing articles are enclosed. Will you kindly gaze at them for 30 minutes and then return them to me?"

Jabot: A jabot is an ornamental cascade of ruffles down the front of a shirt. The ruff look began in the 16th century to distinguish upper classes from working classes. By weaving a drawstring through the upper edge of a shirt and then pulling it very tightly around the neck the unbending ruff sat atop a doublet collar, making the head sit erect. Women eventually decided to open the ruff and expose some cleavage, while the back of the ruff fanned out behind their heads. The jabot replaced the torturous ruff in the 17th century (although designer Anna Sui was showing some ruff-like collars in her runway show of fall clothing).

Furs: Furs have always been used for warmth and later to signify wealth and privilege. In the 1990s we are faced with the political correctness dilemma. Some designers this year reintroduced fur looks with fake furs. Lauren recalls the popular Persian lamb trims of the 1940s in hats, collars and borders of his Russian-inspired coats and jackets

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