Real Estate

Gardening: How to grow a peach tree from a pit

Q: I love peaches and have often planted the pit many times to no avail. What am I doing wrong?

—Charlie Herrmann


A: I referenced two good articles for this question: Penn State Extension Fact Sheet: "Growing New Fruit Tree Plants from Seed," and "Colorado State Extension: Starting Peaches from Pits."

Remember that any plant you get probably won't be the same as the peach you got it from. The original peach trees often are the result of hardy rootstocks and cuttings from some other, more desirable variety. The flower that produced your peach was not necessarily pollinated by the same variety.


However, if that doesn't concern you, there are a few basics that will greatly improve your chances:

•Plant your pits in the fall in well-drained soil, several inches apart and about 4 inches deep.

•Cover with soil, or lightly cover with soil and then fill in with an inch or two of sand. Then add about an inch of mulch.

•Water and continue to water throughout the winter during warm dry weather when there is no snow cover.

•Protect your bed from squirrels or chipmunks by covering the bed with a wide screen that will allow sprouting. Bury the edges and make sure your screen holes are not so wide that they will allow burrowing. Remove the screen after the seedlings sprout.

•Expect some failures so plant more than one pit. Sprouting can take 120-130 days, so be patient and wait for spring.

•Peach pits need a period of cold to germinate. So if you are trying to sprout indoors, allow for this by placing the cleaned pit on a damp paper towel and seal it in a plastic bag. Keep undisturbed and chilled in a refrigerator for at least six weeks before planting it in moist sterile soil.

Transplanting peonies


Q: I have a peony bush I would like to move to another section of my garden. When is the best time to transplant it? Also the leaves have a white powdery substance. Is this mold? How should I treat it before transplanting it?


A: This question is perfectly timed. Millie doesn't mention what type of peony she has, but I believe she has the traditional herbaceous peony, and I based my response on that.

Peonies are best transplanted in the fall while they are dormant but before the soil freezes. Increase your probability of success by following a few general recommendations:

Select a site with full sun. While peonies will grow in less light, they will take longer to mature and produce fewer blooms.

The soil should be neutral to slightly alkaline (check pH), have good drainage and a high organic content.


Dig the new hole before you dig up the peony. Replant at the same depth.

Allow proper spacing between plants. Peonies like about 3 feet between them and the next plant.

Cut back stems and gently loosen soil around the plant, starting about 8 inches from the outermost stems. Use a garden fork and carefully lift the roots. Note that there are large roots, small finer roots and a central connecting crown, and eyes or buds atop the crown.

If you plan to divide the plant, rinse the roots so that you can clearly see everything. Cut through the crown, making sure that each section has at least one large root, a portion of the crown with a minimum of three to five eyes.

Transplant as soon as possible after digging up. Peonies dislike being uprooted and may underperform and not flower for several years after moving.

The white powdery substance is most likely powdery mildew. This is very common on herbaceous peonies. As this usually occurs late in the season, it rarely affects the general health of the plants.


There are several courses of action that can be used to control powdery mildew:

If you are really bothered by the fungus, you can apply a systemic general fungicide. It is effective but considered unnecessary in most cases. Always read the label and follow directions when using any chemical in the garden.

Check the drainage around your plants — excessive moisture is not only bad for the plants but also can encourage mildew growth.

Check the spacing around your peonies. Inadequate airflow (the result of overcrowding) is another potential cause of mildew problems.

Over-fertilization and the resulting excessive leafy growth also increase the probability of mildew infections.

In late summer or fall, as the leaves start to turn, cut back the stems to within three to four inches from the soil. Clear all debris from the surrounding area and discard (do not compost) the resulting stems and debris.


An excellent resource for all types of peonies is the Peony Care Topics on the Peony's Envy website ( It addresses all phases of peony culture.

Black spot on tomatoes

Is everybody having a problem with black spot on tomatoes this year?

—George Smith

A: I have not heard of any widespread problem with black spot on tomatoes this year. For next year, I recommend the following actions to reduce most fungal problems on tomatoes:

Select resistant varieties of seeds and plants.


Keep beds free of weeds and plant debris.

Rotate plants within your garden so that members of the same family (i.e. tomatoes and eggplant) are not grown in the same spot. Try for a three to five year rotation plan.

Water the soil, not the leaves. Damp leaves are much more inviting to the airborne fungal spores.

Don't crowd your plants. Proper spacing allows the air to circulate, drying damp leaves and keeping spores from settling on the leaves.


This week in the garden



•Plant a quick crop like microgreens or frost-resistant crops like collards, short-season cabbage or mustard greens.

•Plant pansies for fall color and, if you select winter pansies, early spring blooms.

•Asters and mums are starting to appear on the market. Buy now for best selection; use either in the garden or as part of a container display.

•Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination. Poppies are one example.

•Plant perennials, trees and shrubs now into October as the weather cools. Water newly planted specimens regularly.



•Allow the final flush of flowers to go to seed.

•Order asparagus, rhubarb, bulbs, flower and fruit plants, and shrubs for fall planting. Shop

•Weed often and cut off flowers of any weeds you don't get pulled out.

•Cut back peony greens



•Seed, overseed, dethatch and aerate lawns through mid-October. |

•Apply broadleaf weed control through mid October.

•Install sod as the weather cools, September and October.

•Treat for chinch bugs and sod webworms.

•Fertilizer until mid-October.



•Fill in holes and low spots in lawn.


•Order or buy mulch for winter, but do not apply until the ground freezes.

•Stop watering amaryllis bulbs.

•Harvest crops regularly. Destroy or trash diseased or infested plants.

•Water containers frequently.


•Repair or replace damaged screens and garden hoses.

•Dump standing water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations.


•Clean and fill bird feeders and birdbaths regularly.

•Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.

Tools, equipment and supplies:


•Check seed inventory for late crops and fall planting.

•Maintain summer equipment.

•Check fall equipment and replace or repair as needed.

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•Clear storm damage as it occurs.



•Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children.

•Don't prune anything that can't be reached from the ground.

•Avoid mosquito and tick bites.

—Sue Kittek