Sync Features dictionaries
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This PR adds a wrapper to the `Features` class to keep the secondary dict, `_column_requires_decoding`, aligned with the main dict (as discussed in https://github.com/huggingface/datasets/pull/3723#discussion_r806912731).

A more elegant approach would be to subclass `UserDict` and override `__setitem__` and `__delitem__`, but this PR doesn't implement it for the following reasons:
* it requires replacing all occurrences of `isinstance(obj, dict)` with `isinstance(obj, Mapping)`, which is five times slower than `isinstance(obj, dict)` on my machine, in `features.py`
* is a breaking change, i.e., `isinstance(Features(...), dict)` would return `False` after it
* IMO, it makes sense to be consistent in the user-facing API and subclass either `dict` or `UserDict`. The problem with the latter is that it can't be used for `DatasetDict` because `DatasetDict` exposes the `data` property, which is also used by `UserDict`, so this would result in a collision.

