BLD: Fix gitpod meson version
- [X] closes #55214 
- [X] All [code checks passed](https://pandas.pydata.org/pandas-docs/dev/development/contributing_codebase.html#pre-commit).

The issue is that meson is out of date in gitpod. 

`pip install --upgrade meson`

The above command fixes the issue, so I added it to the build instructions in gitpod.yml. It could be added to the dockerfile instead, but I decided to be cautious. 

I added the update command to both the `init` and `command` sections because gitpod sometimes skips the `init` section and goes straight to the `command` section without installing anything.

With the fix:
```
gitpod@theuerc-pandas-jy3jlfp1dg6:/workspace/pandas$ python
Python 3.10.8 (main, Dec  6 2022, 14:13:21) [GCC 10.2.1 20210110] on linux
Type "help", "copyright", "credits" or "license" for more information.
>>> import pandas
+ /usr/local/bin/ninja
[1/1] Generating write_version_file with a custom command
>>> pandas.to_datetime("2022-01-01")
Timestamp('2022-01-01 00:00:00')
>>> 
```

I'm running the tests in gitpod overnight and I'll check the log file in the morning.

#### Update: 

These are the results:

661 failed, 211445 passed, 7990 skipped, 2426 xfailed, 15 xpassed, 405 warnings, 58 errors in 4524.22s (1:15:24)

The failed tests are the ones that interact with either S3 or a nonexistent SQL server, so I think everything works.

I'll update it every so often until someone with write access comes along again. This pull request is stale because it has been open for thirty days with no activity. Please [update](https://pandas.pydata.org/pandas-docs/stable/development/contributing.html#updating-your-pull-request) and respond to this comment if you're still interested in working on this. Thanks for the PR, but this is currently getting overhauled in https://github.com/pandas-dev/pandas/pull/56375 which should also solve your original issue so closing in favor of that PR