, check the solder joints on the display board where the pins from the glass are attached.
Press the Advance switch again to get to the Switch Matrix test (#2). With the ball removed and all of the drop target banks reset, you should have nothing displayed in the Ball/Credit display. Hopefully you have the manual and can verify that all of the switches are working correctly. If not, at least press each switch with a finger and make sure that something shows up in the display.
Press Advance again to get to the Controlled Lamps test (#3). All of the General Illumination lights are already on, and now the Controlled lamps should all be flashing. Note any that are not and replace them as needed.
Press Advance again to get to the Solenoids test (#4). Again, the manual is helpful here so you can tell if all of the solenoids are working correctly, but the game will cycle through all of them. A couple are "not used", so don't be alarmed by it skipping over a couple without anything happening.
Press Advance again to get to the last test, the Sound Board test (#5). All of the various game sounds and voice samples should be played.
Assuming you found no problems with the tests, it's time to set up the game for play. Zaccaria is a bit wierd, I think, in that the first time you power up the game, the CMOS contains random garbage. Rather than assume it to be bad and clear it, they just try to use it as though it were correct data. You absolutely must go through all of the Audits and game settings options and change them, even if they appear to be correct. If you, for example, look at option #10 (High Score Type) and you want it to be set to 0, you may find that when you get to #10 that the Ball/Credit display says that it is set to 0. Don't believe it, use the Start button to cycle through all possible values to get back to 0.
Press Advance to get from the Sound Board test to the Audits. The Ball/Credit display will show that you are in item #6. The Player displays will have random garbage. Press and hold the Start button to clear the first four Audits to 0.
Press Advance again to get to item #7, then press and hold Start to clear the audit data. Repeat for #8 and #9.
Press Advance again to get to the Operator Settings options. Items #10 through #37 are the game setup options. These are game specific.
Be sure to set all of the options, even if they appear to already be set correctly. Keep pressing Advance to get to the next option, and Start to set the value, until you get to item #37.
When you get to #37, and have set the value to 0, press Advance one more time and the game will return to Game Over mode, and will resume it's "Bing! Bing! Bing!..." noise. Change DIP switch #4 back to "off" and the game will stop complaining and be ready to play. Trip the coin switch to add a credit, and hit Start. Zaccaria doesn't have a Free Play setting option, so in the game options, you can set the first Replay score to a minimum value like 10,000 points, so the game will always have credits available on it.
If you have one of Zaccaria's games, and can transcribe the operator's settings for me from the manual, please email me |||EMAIL_ADDRESS||| and let me know. I would like to include them here for other games.
There are two diagnostics LEDs on the boards in the backbox. Unlike more modern games, Zaccaria's LEDs don't tell you much about the game when you turn it on.
as the game boots up. When running, CPU LED is on, Sound Board LED is off. Any other state of the LEDs is invalid and probably indicates a problem, but doesn't tell you much about what that problem might be.
Commonly, on a board where the battery has leaked, the CPU will attempt to boot, you will see the LED come on, then the game will crash and the LED will go out again. This is usually caused by either (or both) IC4 or IC5 being destroyed by the battery alkaline.
The Transformer fuse is located in the input voltage adjustment. Unscrew the knob on the front right uppper corner until it comes off. You will see the 5A line fuse, in addition to the settings for the supported input voltages (100V, 115V, 200V, 220V, 245V). The brass spike (and the window on the edge of the cover) point to the desired input voltage setting.
There are two fuses under the playfield in a small holder. They are both 3A fuses. Some games, like Farfalla, may have additional fuses in holders under the playfield; check these as well.
Once you have verified that the fuses are correct, check to see that the transformer in the bottom cabinet has been configured for the correct line voltage for your location. If the game was purchased locally, it most likely is already set correctly, but it doesn't hurt to double check it, and you have to open this up to check the line fuse anyway. If you are especially paranoid, you can verify that the transformer is putting out correct voltages.
First, with only CN1 connected to the Power Supply, and with all of the other connectors on the Power Supply disconnected, turn on the game, and use a meter to check the voltage test points on the Power Supply. Turn the power off again before continuing.
Second, disconnect the ribbon cables from the CPU board that lead to the Driver Board, Sound Board, and Displays. Also disconnect the Power Supply connectors CN2, CN3, CN4 as well as CN16 on the Driver and CN6 on the Sound board. Then disconnect the switch matrix, CN10 and CN11 from the CPU board. This leaves only the transformer, Power Supply (via CN1) and CPU board connected.
Turn the power on and watch the LED on the CPU. As described above, it should flicker briefly, go dark, then come on and stay on. If it does, the CPU booted correctly. If it does not, something is wrong either on the Power Supply or CPU board and will have to be troubleshot and repaired.
Displays - One ribbon cable to connect, and now you can at least see what the game is doing and whether it seems to be working or not.
Sound Board - Unlikely to have any problems, or to cause any problems with the other subsystems.
Switch Matrix - Connectors to the CPU board. Once the switch matrix is reconnected, you can use the self test features to verify that the Displays and Sound Board are working. Check the playfield switches to ensure that they are working correctly.
Driver Board - This is the most likely place to run in to problems, since the coil and lamp controls are on this board. Also, the ribbon cable that connects it to the CPU is part of the data bus, so a problem that takes this board down can (rarely) confuse the CPU and cause it to not work normally. Use the self test features to check the controlled lamps and the solenoids.
as it makes it easier to tell whether everything is working, and also moves from the most likely sections to be working fine to the ones that could be more troublesome.
Use the game's own self tests for the displays, switch matrix, lamps, solenoids, and sounds to verify that everything is working. Once the game is booted and running, press the Advance switch on the coin door to start the diagnostics. Pressing Advance will advance to the next self-test. Pressing Return goes back to the previous test. There are 37 to step through, comprising Diagnostics, Audits, and Operator Settings. Pressing Advance will eventually bring you back to game-over. Advance is Switch 0, Return is Switch 1 in the switch matrix. You will need at least one working display in the Ball/Credit position (jumper as Display 5) to see what you are doing.
The displays will cycle 1111111, 2222222,... 9999999. All digits and all segments should be working. Pressing the Start button (Switch 9) starts a rolling digits test where the displays will show 87,654,321, then 98,765,432, then 09,876,543, etc. scrolling the digits from left to right.
Press Advance again to reach the switch matrix test. Use the switch matrix chart (Games and Documentation) and/or the playfield switch location chart in the game's manual to verify that all playfield, coin door, and cabinet switches register correctly. Zaccaria's switch test display only shows the number of the highest number switch that is closed, which can be confusing at first, so work up from switch 01 and ensure that each switch registers in the test. If there is a problem with the switch matrix where multiple switches are being seen closed at the same time, you will be able to see multiple switch numbers flash by on the display very quickly. This usually indicates a blown 3081 transistory array at IC38 on the CPU board.
The switch matrix test can also be done on the bench without a playfield by substituting a simple jumper lead with a diode in series. Connect the anode (banded end) of the diode to Row 0...7 (CN10 pins 6, CN11 pins 2...7, CN11 pin 9) and use the cathode (non-banded end) as a probe on Column 0...7 (CN11 pins 10...17). By working through all possible switches (0...63), you can prove that the board is working,