 few days.
Homemade flea traps can help to control flea beetles. Use a painted white or yellow piece of cardboard about 4-inch by 6-inch or larger and coat it with a sticky substance such as petroleum jelly or a non-setting glue. Shake your plants slightly while holding the trap over your plant, the disturbed flea beetles should get caught up in the traps as they jump. It is also a good idea to attach traps to stakes near your plants.
If you remove and destroy all weeds and crop debris around your garden, this will limit flea beetle habitat between growing seasons. Use floating row covers, gauze or mesh on young plants to protect them while they are growing. Keep your soil moist, flea beetles thrive in hot dry soil. If at all possible planting your garden where it can receive some shade during the day can be helpful also.
Use neem oil if you are still noticing a lot of flea beetles. It’s natural and non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects, or use kaolin clay as a protective barrier film for preventing damage from insect pests.
Cutworms are caterpillar larvae of night flying moths and there are several species. The larvae are called cutworms because they cut down young plants as they feed on stems at or below the soil surface. There are also some cutworm species that move up plants and feed upon foliage, buds and shoots. The adult moths fly at night but they do not cause damage. Cutworms are known to cause damage to vegetable including asparagus, bean, cabbage and other crucifers, carrot, celery, corn, lettuce, pea, pepper, potato, and tomato. Cutworms vary in color from brown or tan to pink, green or gray and black and they can be uniform, spotted or striped. They can be dull, or appear glossy or shiny and when they are disturbed they curl up in a “c” shape. Some cutworms migrate from the South each year, where others are native to your region. Native cutworms overwinter in weedy areas, grassy fields or pastures, and if weeds are permitted to grow in the fall after crop harvest, cutworms may survive to attack your vegetables in the spring. Even though cutworms are active throughout summer, most cutworm damage occurs in the spring when your vegetable plants are seedlings. When numerous, they can devastate a garden, chewing stems of young plants at or slightly above or below the soil line and they can continue to cut new plants nightly.
Controlling cutworms is more effective when the larvae are small so monitoring your plants is important especially tomatoes, peppers and celery. Watch for plants cut off near the ground or plants that are noticeably wilting, look for droppings on the ground, and roll your soil or soil clumps over to verify the presence of cutworms.
Till your garden before planting, this will expose and kill overwintering larvae and it will remove plant residue that may otherwise encourage egg laying. Also till your garden in the fall to expose or eliminate overwintering larvae or pupae.
Use aluminum foil or cardboard collars around transplants to create a barrier between plants and cutworms, making sure that one end is pushed a few inches into the soil, and the other end extends several inches above ground.
Tarnished Plant Bug adults are about 1/4 inch long and oval shaped. They are brown to black with yellow or white patches. Plant bugs are a large, diverse family of insects and is a key economic pest of strawberries with 2-3 generations per year. Fruit injury can occur from adult and nymph feeding. They feed on more than 300 plants and are most abundant during the pre-bloom and blossom periods. They are easily identified by the yellow markings behind the head which vary from a V shape to a Y shape to a heart shape. The nymph is similar to the adult only smaller. They are green with black spots and do not have wings. They suck the sap from plants and are believed to inject digestive enzymes into the plant when feeding to break down plant tissues. They feed on a host of fruits and vegetables, and plants including asparagus, celery, strawberries, cauliflower and broccoli, potatoes, beans, alfalfa, peaches, carrot, nursery stock and many species used as cut flowers, and more. Plant bugs can cause abortion of young fruits or buds, deformation of fruit, necrosis near feeding site, damage to seeds, reduced or deformed vegetative growth, or discoloration of vegetables such as bronzing on the head of cauliflower. Tarnished plant bug overwinters as an adult in in ground debris or between the leaves of various plants, and they become active as soon as the weather warms. Eggs are laid inside of plant tissue, in buds, soft young stem tissue, or leaf veins, and eggs hatch in about 5 to 7 days.
Weed management is an effective management tool for plant bugs. Preventing weeds from forming young buds and flowers will keep this bugs population lower in the weedy areas. Because plant bugs move around freely it is very difficult to manage them. Keeping your garden free of weeds and damage foliage seems to be the best remedy for controlling these pests. Making the garden clean will make sure that they will not be able to find a suitable overwintering site. Till your garden in the fall to expose those that have been overwintering and to kill the eggs of the bugs even before they hatch.
Natural predators will feed on the immature stages of plant bugs to help reduce their overall population of. These include bigeyed bugs, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, Peristenus (very small parasitic wasp), and several species of spiders.
Most non-chemical growers have been unable to find adequate methods for controlling plant bugs, even with organically approved sprays labeled for TPB. You can try a mixture of kaolin and plant oil to stray on your plants, or a garlic spray is one of the simplest, but seems to work best with cases of small-scale infestations.
Scale insects are sap-feeding insects named for the scale or shell-like waxy covering that conceals their bodies. Depending on the species, these little sap suckers can be found on plant stems, twigs, trunks, foliage, or fruit. There size ranges from 1/8 to 1/2 inch and their color, shape, texture varies depending on species. There are two categories of scale bugs: soft scales that produce a soft, thin, cottony, powdery or waxy layer over themselves that cannot be separated from the insect body and often produces an abundance of honeydew which is a sweet, sticky substance of undigested sugar and water that passes through the insect’s digestive system and is deposited onto leaves and stems, and armored scales that have a hard, shield-like cover composed of shed skins and wax that conceals the body but is not attached to the body of the insect. These little critters are are hard to control because of the waxy or cottony covering that serves as a protective barrier to traditional contact insecticides. Armored scale insects are small bugs that do not produce honeydew but they attach themselves to leaves and branches of trees. While attached, their large needle-like mouth sometimes 8 times as long as their body feeds on the sap of plants, trees, and shrubs (similar to aphids).
Control Armored scale insects by encouraging natural predatory insects such as lady bugs.
Horticultural oils can be effective for armored scale management.  They work on contact with insects so they are best applied when crawlers are active.They do not have a toxic residue and can be used in multiple applications and they killed kill other unwanted pests that can damage your garden also including mites and aphids.
Spray them away with 5 tbsp of mild dish soap and 1 gallon of water. Pour the soap into a spray bottle and spray the plant, don’t forget the undersides of the leaves and stems, until the soap solution begins to drip. Repeat the treatment every four to seven days until the scales are gone.
Scrub them away, when your plants are small and the infestation is minor, carefully scrub the scales off with your nail or an old toothbrush (soft tooth brush), spray the plant with your natural insecticidal spray every four days or so.
Pruning away parts of the plant that are infested with scales in high concentration, you can relieve your plants of further infestation. Cut about 1/4-inch above a leaf or at the base of the branch (Note; clean your pruners so there is no scale insect on them as they will transfer to your healthy plants.
There is a myriad of insects that live all around us. FACT: there are more than a million known insect species that we know of and probably more that have not been discovered yet. We also know that when these little critters are hungry, they must to eat.  Root feeders such as cutworms, beetle grubs like wireworms, vine weevil, chafer beetles, cabbage root fly, carrot flies, earwigs, and microscopic pest nematodes invade the root system of plants and some will move from plant to plant. Leaf feeders include but are not limited to butterflies, moths, sawfly caterpillars, adult beetles and their grubs, slugs and snails and they feed on what they are categorized as “leaves”. Flower and fruit feeders such as caterpillars, some moths, sawflies, some beetle grubs, plant bugs, and fly larvae will feed right on the fruit or vegetables.
Every gardener at one time or another will experience some type