 between the tailor’s tacks only.
Slash through the jacket fabric between the welts (see Jetted pocket with ﬂap, pages 220–221).
Place the lining over the welts, raw edges to the center. Pin to secure.
Stitch the lining in place over the stitching line of the welts—you can feel the indentation of welt stitching.
Press the lining and welts on the wrong side as shown.
Push the lining and the ends of the welts through to the back.
On the right side, whip stitch the folds of the welts together.
Remove the whip stitches from across the pocket opening.
On the reverse, stitch around the lining to make the pocket bag. The stitching starts and ends on the ends of the welts (see Jetted pocket with ﬂap, pages 220–221).
Join the under collar to the jacket front and back.
Stop stitching at the tailor’s tack at the front edge.
Attach the upper collar to the front facing and back neck lining.
A notched collar is a sign of a tailored jacket. This type of collar consists of an upper and under collar, and a facing that folds back to form the rever on either side. Careful stitching and accurate marking are required.
Press the seam open over a tailor’s ham.
Stitch the front facing to the jacket front. Start stitching at the tailor’s tack at the front edge. The stitching line from the collar and the stitching line from the facing should line up but not cross each other.
Place the jacket and the lining together. Match the collar sections.
Clip the seam as necessary.
Stitch around the collar, stopping and starting the stitching at the tailor’s tacks at the front edge.
Press the seam open. Clip as necessary.
On the inside, herringbone stitch the neck seams together.
Turn the collar and rever to the right side.
Press using a steam iron and cloth. Roll the seam toward the back of the garment so that it does not show on the right side.
On a tailored jacket, the sleeve needs to be set in to have a rounded sleeve head, which is created with polyester batting. The sleeve head will ensure that the sleeve hangs perfectly.
 The batting should be approx 2 in (5 cm) deep at the centre. Pin in place.
Make up the sleeve.
Insert two rows of gather (ease) stitches to attach the batting to the sleeve.
Pull up the ease stitches to ﬁt. The sleeve head will absorb the fullness.
The shoulder pad can now be inserted. The back slope of the shoulder pad is longer than the front slope. The concave side will face the jacket lining.
Machine in place. Make a second row of machining close to the ﬁrst stitching.
Insert the sleeve into the armhole, right side to right side. Pin in place.
On the right side, the ﬁnished sleeve has a rounded sleeve head.
Attach the shoulder pad at the edge of the sleeve seam using a ﬁrm running stitch.
Bring the lining down over the jacket hem. Turn up the hem of the lining so that it is level to the jacket hem, then push up to 3⁄4 in (2 cm) from the hem edge. At the facing edge, the lining is level with the hem edge. Pin.
When making a jacket, the jacket hem is turned up ﬁrst and then the lining is hemmed. The jacket hem needs to be reinforced ﬁrst with a slotted fusible hem tape. Make sure that the hem edge is parallel to the ground. Turn up the hem on the jacket by about 11⁄2 in (4 cm). Pin to secure.
Roll back the edge of the hem and herringbone stitch in place.
Use a slip hem stitch to secure the lining in place.
bodice from falling down. The boning will also give extra structure to the bodice and prevent wrinkles. Boning can be a simple process, or more complex using interfacings for additional structure and shape.
A couture boned bodice is the more complicated of the two methods of bodice construction, but it is well worth the extra work involved as the ﬁnished result is wrinkle-free and self-supporting. This technique can be used for bridal bodices and special-occasion wear.
Stitch across the top of each bias tape 3⁄4 in (2 cm) from the top edge.
 On the back, stitch bias binding in the center.
On the side back and side front, stitch bias binding down the center.
On the center front, stitch bias binding below the bust to the waist.
Insert nylon boning into the bias binding.
Layer the sections of the bodice together. Put the calico at the bottom, then the collar canvas, boning uppermost, then the ﬂat domette, and ﬁnally the silk dupion.
Baste around the edge to secure all the layers.
Place the bodice sections together, right side to right side. Stitch using a 5⁄8 in (1.5 cm) seam.
Trim the collar canvas from the seam allowance.
After pressing, the princess seams at the front will be smoothly tapered to the waist.
Join the lining together and press the seams open.
Press all the seams open. Clip as required. Use a tailor’s ham under the curves.
Pin the lining to the bodice around the top edge and down the center back. Match all vertical seam allowances.
Press the seam allowances of the bodice and lining seam toward the lining. Understitch.
Clip and layer the seam, then turn to the right side. Press.
At the hem edge, turn up the silk bodice and herringbone in place.
Turn up the lining hem and pin, then hand stitch to the silk.
The completed bodice will stand on its own!
For a simpler bodice on a dress or as a bodice on its own, this is a lightweight, quick technique.
Join the lining sections together.
Press the seam allowances together toward the center.
Repeat on all seams to complete the lining.
Apply a fusible interfacing to all the bodice sections.
Join the bodice sections together. Press the seams open.
Join the bodice and lining together at the upper edge.
Sew a piece of narrow polyester boning to each set of seam allowances. Use a zigzag stitch to secure.
Press the seam toward the lining and understitch.
Draw a decorative shape, such as a ﬂower, on to a piece of double-sided fusible web.
many items. The term appliqué applies to one fabric being stitched to another in a decorative manner. The fabric to be appliquéd must be interfaced to support the fabric that is to be attached. Appliqué can be drawn by hand, then cut and stitched down, or it can be created by a computer pattern on the embroidery machine. The embroidery machine can also be used to create quilting, or this can be done by hand or with a sewing machine.
This technique involves drawing the chosen design on to a piece of double-sided fusible web, after which the design is fused in place on fabric prior to being stitched.
Using the iron, fuse the web on to your chosen fabric.
Place the shape, fusible web side down, where it is to be positioned on fabric and fuse in place.
Place the base fabric and appliqué fabric in the embroidery hoop and stitch out the ﬁrst part of the design.
There are designs available for appliqué if you have an embroidery machine. You will need to use a special fusible embroidery backer on both the fabric for the appliqué and the base fabric.
For a ﬂower, stitch on top of the Using a wide, close zigzag stitch, stitch fabric appliqué to make petal shapes. around the shape.
Trim the appliqué fabric back to the stitching lines.
Complete the computerized embroidery.
This is a technique that involves stitching through two layers of fabric, one of which is a batting. The stitching sinks into the batting, creating a padded effect. Quilting can be done by hand, with a sewing machine, or using computerized embroidery.
Baste the batting and top fabric together. Stitch double lines with spaces between. Use a stitch length of 4.0 on your machine.
Diagonally baste the batting and top fabric together.
Set the machine to a stitch length of 4.0, with the needle on the one side of the foot. Stitch rows of machining diagonally across. Use the width of the machine foot as a guide to keep the rows parallel.
Baste the batting and top fabric together. Stitch at random.
Stitch parallel rows in the opposite diagonal directions, to create diamond shapes.
Baste the batting and top fabric together, then stitch on a quilted pattern with the embroidery machine.
On special-occasion wear, a rose can add a superb ﬁnishing touch. When the raw edges of a rose are exposed, as in version 2 below, it also looks great made in tweed and suiting fabrics, to add a decorative ﬁnish to a tailored jacket. A bow that is permanently ﬁxed in place is a beautiful embellishment on bridal