 the manifold, tightening the bolts with a torque wrench to 20 ft-lbs.
Attach the oxygen sensor socket to the exhaust pipe with a wrench.
Replace the starter motor by installing the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket. Connect the electrical connections to the starter motor that were disconnected during removal.
Push the retaining clips on the plastic splash shield into the appropriate retaining clip holes.
Replace the front skid plate by replacing the four front skid plate bolts with a ratchet and socket.
Fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. Make sure to check the level on the dipstick to find the exact level when filling.
Just the filter: You need a filter wrench that fits your size oil filter. There are 3 or 4 different sizes, so buy the wrench when you buy the new filter to get the right size. Unscrew the old filter. Use the wrench just to loosen it and then you can use your hand to run it off. Have a drain pan to catch the inevitable drips and spills, and to lay the old filter in.` Use a rag and clean the block where the filter's rubber gasket mates to the block. Make sure the old filter's gasket came off with the old filter and is not still on the engine. Where the filter goes on you should see only clean shiny metal.
Before you start the new filter on, it is very important to put clean oil on the rubber gasket on the filter's base. Just dip your finger in oil and run it all around the rubber gasket-if you don't do this it will surely leak there. Now start the filter onto the threaded stud -the mounting stud for the filter-and turn it on down until the rubber gasket is touching the shiny metal base ring on the engine block. Now with only your hands, and not the fil;ter wrench, you need to turn the filter another 3/4 of a turn so it will seal tightly. If you get it half a turn and it gets tight, just squeeze a little harder=get as close to 3/4 of a turn as you can.
You are done. Pat yourself (wipe your hands clean first.). When oil is put in and car is started, check for leaks at the filter.
Not much room to work there, eh? On GM cars, there's a procedure called "rotating the engine forward". It tethers the engine in a forward-leaning position so you can work on the backside, gives you a few inches more to reach back there.
On the radiator support is one or two "dog-bone" braces that attach to top of engine. Remove the long bolt from both braces (15mm wrench or socket on the bolt and nut). On one of the dog-bones is a hole on the underside, see it? You have to lever or pry the engine forward, and fit the long bolt you removed back into that same slot, but with the hole in the dog-bone there where the bolt goes through the hole when it is re-inserted. This pulls the top of engine over towards the radiator by 2 or 3 inches. That's all you get to work on the backside, but it usually suffices. Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds, and the bolts or nuts for the exhaust manifold, any other obstructions (the O2 sensor connector, for one), and pull the manifold off. Clean gasket surfaces, place new gasket, and re-install.
I want to be able to change my own oil and don't have the first clue on where to start. I have never done it before but it can't be that hard, just need the steps to be able to do it!! Of course I...
It is quite easy but you need a few basic tools first. You will need a plastic or rubber tray with a spout to set under the engine to catch the oil. Soft plastic or rubber is best. The cheap hard plastic ones break too easy. You will also need a filter wrench. There are an assortment of these but the best is one that is adjustable to fit different filters. I prefer one that has a steel band that tightens when you pull the handle but there is also a fabric one that twists that is also good. They both tighten as you turn so if the filter is stubborn the wrench won't slip. A basic combination wrench set should handle the oil drain plug. Check with the parts counter guy but I think your engine will use metric wrenchs. He could also be able to tell you size for the drain plug. If the wrench set doesn't come with that size in it then the wrench you need can be bought separately. You should also have a funnel to make adding oil a lot easier. You also should have some rags on hand and something to soak up spills.
Before you crawl under the truck, block the wheels just in case (a very good habit that could save your life someday). Bring your pan and wrenchs. The oil plug is on the bottom of the oil pan usually on the driver's side. Set the pan under it and loosen the plug. Turn it to the left so the handle is going clockwise. It will probably need a sharp snap to loosen. When loose it should turn out by hand. It will have a washer, usually plastic. Don't lose this, it has to go back on. Let the oil drail into the pan for a few minutes and then put the plug back in and tighten ( handle to the right). Slip the filter wrench up the filter from the bottom and loosen it (turn left). Have a rag handy because oil will drip as soon as it's loose. Spin it off by hand and put it in the drain pan.
Take the new filter and put a thin coat of oil on the rubber gasket BEFORE you spin it back on. This will make removal so much easier. Once it stops spinning on then give it about 3/4 or 1 turn by hand. NEVER use a filter wrench to tighten the oil filter. Double check your drain plug and then add your oil in the top of the engine. Add oil until the dipstick reads full. DO NOT overfill. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or so. The oil light will be flashing for some of this time but should go out fairly quickly. Let the truck sit for a few minutes and check the oil dipstick again. The level will be down because the filter has to fill so top it up. Restart the engine and while it's running get under under the truck and check for leaks. ALWAYS do this. If you see any drips then tighten the plug or filter some more, but just until they stop leaking. Take a rag with you to wipe off so you can tell when the leaking stops. Recheck the oil level and you are done except cleanup. Pour the old oil into a plastic container. Wipe out the drain pan with some rags and put them and the filter in a plastic bag. Clean up your spills and put that mes in the plastic bag too. If your area has regulations about oil disposal then do it that way. Otherwise you can prbably get your local service station to take it off your hands. Hope this helps.
New gaskets, do it yourself job, easiest way pick up a Haynes book on your vehicle. Slight power increase can be changing your oil to Amsoil synthetic, but make sure your vehicle can handle it first and also remember don't use normal oil filters use a synthetic one of course. Also do it yourself to get to know your vehicle more and on how it works, you may get more ideas.
How is the easyest way to change the rear exhaust manifold on a 2005 ford escape v6? thanks!
First disconnect, negative battery terminal, then catalytic converter has to be taken out, then oil tube bracket and then exhaust manifold can be removed out.--------- For complete step by step detailed procedure with diagrams, click the link below :--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-change-exhaust-manifold-on-2005.html ----------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Where is the oil filter on 2004 pontiac grand am?
Oil filter on the 3.1 liter engine on the 2004 Grand Am is located on the engine, just below the exhaust manifold on the radiator side. To remove it, your going to have to jack the front up off the ground to give you room to get to it. Once your under the car, you'll see the oil filter just under the exhaust manifold attached to the engine block.
I have a 1994 Ford F150 extended cab 5.0 v8. I need to change the exaust manifold gaskets, how can I do this and what tools and what will I need to do?
- Make sure that the engine and exhaust is cooled down before performing the procedure to prevent injuries.
ECOTec 2.4 Liter engine (and all ECOTec engine blocks in 4 cylinder sizes) have a cartridge type oil filter housing on the front of the block, driver's side of the vehicle.
The cap must be removed with a wrench, and the filter pulled out, then the new one put in. Now is usually a good time to replace the O-ring on the cap.
. pull out starter motor and replace a new one, put back also exhaust manifold if you disconnect it.
remove the old gasket using your putty knife. The gasket should come of mostly intact. Use your putty knife to remove any gasket material that remains on the engine block or the manifold. Any gasket material left on the mounting surfaces will cause leaks that inhibit engine performance coat the