Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. He was born in Villach. He suffered from frostbite during the descent of Karakoram and had to have amputations.