The easiest way to draft your own shirt pattern will be to copy the shape of an existing shirt that fits well. While this tutorial only covers t-shirt drafting and construction, you can follow the same basic steps to help draft patterns for other shirt styles. Fold the shirt in half vertically, keeping the front sides out. Lay the halved shirt over a large sheet of paper. Ideally, you should place the paper over thick cardboard before placing the shirt on top. The cardboard will provide a stiff enough work surface to trace over. Moreover, you'll need to stick pins into the paper, and doing so will be easier to accomplish with cardboard backing. Pin along the perimeter of the shirt, paying special attention to the back neckline seam beneath the collar and the sleeve seam.  The pins you insert along the shoulder seam, sides, and bottom hem do not need to be precise since their main purpose is to hold the shirt down. For the sleeve seam, stick the pins straight down through the seam and into the paper. Space the pins no further than 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. For the back neckline, stick the pins straight down through the seam connecting the back neckline to its collar. Space the pins 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire outline of the shirt.  Trace along the shoulder, sides, and bottom of the pinned shirt. After tracing these elements, lift away the shirt and find the holes marking the sleeve seam and neckline seam. Trace along these holes to complete the outline for the back pattern piece. Move the folded shirt over to a fresh piece of paper, pinning along the front outline instead of the back.  Follow the same steps used for the shirt back to place the pins along the perimeter and sleeves of the shirt front. The front neckline is usually deeper than the back. To mark it out, place the pins beneath the front portion of the neckline, just beneath the collar. Keep them 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and straight down. Trace along the front outline just as you traced along the back outline.  Lightly trace the shoulder, sides, and bottom with pencil while the shirt remains pinned in place. Remove the shirt and trace along the pin marks of the neckline and sleeve to complete the front outline. Unfold the shirt. Flatten out one sleeve and pin it to clean paper. Trace around the outline.  As before, insert the pins straight through the connecting seam. Trace around the top, bottom, and outer edge of the sleeve with the sleeve still in place. Remove the shirt from the paper and trace along the pin-marked seam to complete the outline. Use a flexible ruler and pencil to carefully draw another outline around the current perimeter of each piece. This secondary outline will be the seam allowance. You can choose a seam allowance amount you feel comfortable with, but as a general rule, using a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance should give you plenty of room to work with. Label each piece by part (back body, front body, and sleeve). Mark the fold line of each piece, as well.  The fold line of the front and back body pieces will be the straight, folded edge of your original shirt. The fold line of the sleeve will be the straight top edge of the sleeve. Carefully cut around each pattern piece outline. When finished, verify that the pattern pieces match one another.  When you place the open sides of the front and back pieces together, the shoulders and armholes should match up. When you place the sleeve over the armhole of either main body piece, the actual measurement (not the seam allowance) should also match up.
اعثري على قميص يناسبك تمامًا. اثني القميص نصفين. ضعي دبابيس بطول الخط الخلفي. تتبعي الخط الخارجي. ضعي دبابيس بطول الخط الخارجي الأمامي. تتبعي الخط الخارجي. ضعي دبابيس وتتبعي حول الأكمام. أضيفي مسافة للدرز في كل قطعة. ضعي علامة على القَطْع. اقطعي ووصلي القطع.