Choosing the right location is crucial to having a successful harvest. The last thing you want them to be is detected by humans and the second to last thing you want them to be is detected by animals, so choose carefully. Look for tracks and choose an area that you can get to, but that isn't too obvious. Here's what to consider:   A good, reliable source of water is mandatory. A site situated by the side of a river or stream is ideal, but remember that flooding is a risk in spring or autumn. Look for high water marks, debris in trees or water marks on rocks. Avoid areas with pine trees -- the soil is probably too acidic; go for the grassy knoll. Look at what else is already growing at the site. If there are plenty of grasses, weeds and nettles then chances are the location is already blessed with decent soil and water. Woodland sites may also be worth investigating, but think about how the sunlight will filter through the canopy. When inspecting the site, think about how it'll change over the course of the next few months. The sun will get higher (making it hotter) in the summer, getting your plants baked before you do. Find a place where your plant can get at least 5 hours of direct sunlight a day. Where will it hit in the morning, the day, and into the evening? How about over the course of the seasons? It's easiest to start with a smaller number of plants -- each one should have about 10 feet (3.0 m) in diameter from the next. That sounds like a lot, but it's only 5 feet (1.5 m) on either side for the leaves to grow from. And keep in mind that they could grow up to 5' (1.5 m) tall!  Clear away any weeds in the immediate vicinity and dig some decent size holes; they should be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) deep and two feet wide. It is best to replace the original soil with your own "clean" soil from the garden supply shop which should include compost and fertilizer. The original woodland soil will usually harbor a number of pests and diseases and may not be of the best quality anyway. It is a good idea to add a thick layer of mulch to the top surface of the growing area to help keep moisture in the ground below. Planting should take place early in the season, around April or May, after the last frost. Obviously the exact timing will depend on where you live -– this is based on the Northern hemisphere (i.e. in time for spring and summer).   For the southern hemisphere (where spring begins on the 1st of September), watch for a warm spell after that date. Marijuana plants will not tolerate frost so it’s better to be safe than sorry. Plant the seeds, sideways, around 1.25cm (1/2”) deep into your prepared soil. Make sure that they are well watered and will not dry out if there are some sunny days. In addition, make sure you keep them moist at all times. After approximately 48 hours you should start to see the first signs of the seed cracking open and the first shoots coming out. One of the best solutions is to have a stream, river, or lake nearby and hook up a small solar powered pump with a timer on it. That said "best," not "easiest." Think about watering the plants in the early morning and then in the early evening.   Another solution is to devise your own sort of wick system, as discussed previously. Cut a small half pea size hole into the bottom of a 5 or 10 gallon (or more) bucket or plastic container. Place the bucket near the plant and use a cloth or cotton rope to form a wick that funnels the water (or nutrient solution) from the hole in the bucket to the soil near the plant. You have to get the amount of water down pat. Too much and your plants drown (you'll know when the leaves turn yellow); too little and they just don't grow. You'll end up using around 20 to 40 gallons (75.7 to 151.4 L) each season. It all depends on the type of soil you use, the strain, and the amount of sun your plants get. Once established your seedlings will soon enter a vigorous vegetative growth stage. From such fragile beginnings plants quickly become full and robust. It is a good idea during this phase to feed your plants well with some quality, nitrogen rich, fertilizer.  Unlike growing marijuana indoors you have no control over the duration of the vegetative growth stage and over the course of a summer plants can become huge. But hey, at least there's no marijuana in your house. If your garden is out in the wilderness, unfriendly (and threatening) weeds will soon take over and overcrowd your loveable little seedlings. There’s no need to start a forest fire; just clear an area about 3 feet (1 m) around each plant.   Repeat this process again around 3 weeks later. It may be necessary to repeat it again after a further 3 weeks, depending on your site. Most plants, by this time, should be strong enough to make their own space and crowd out weed growth. If the weather has taken an unfortunate turn of events, go check your plants for damage. Heavy winds, rains, and drought can all take their tolls on your efforts. However, don't jump the gun -- these plants can hold their own, so don't panic if you live in Seattle. Although generally considered one of the trickiest parts of growing your own marijuana, sexing is quite straightforward and will become easier as you gain more experience. The reason for sexing your plants is so that you can remove male plants before they have a chance to pollinate the females. If this occurs the females will start to develop seeds and this will divert their energy from THC production.   Towards the end of the summer, as the hours of daylight decrease, changing light levels will trigger your plants to produce flowers. The appearance of pre-flowers at branch junctions is what you are looking for. Male pre-flowers should be clearly visible to the eye, although a magnifying glass will make your job easier. Male flowers form at the junctions of the branches and stem and the pollen sacs form little balls. Remove these. The female flowers will start to form kolas around the branch junctions with a main one at the growing tip of the plants. If you look closely you will see the seed pods and these will swell; either with seeds if your plant has been pollinated or with THC as false pods if you have removed the males.  As the flowers become ready for harvest the pistils will darken and the seed pods will be swollen and sticky with resin and THC trichomes. Once most of the pistils are dark, you're ready! Plan this one out (and plan it well) because, if everything goes according to plan, you will be venturing back home with a load of smelly, sticky bud in your trunk. If possible, a nighttime visit would be preferable (you probably figured). Ideally plants will be ready to harvest when the buds have darkened, swollen and are glistening with THC crystals.   However, guerrilla gardening isn’t always ideal, so keep an eye on the weather forecast. If extreme weather, or worse, an early frost is imminent and your plants are budding, but not fully ripe, it might be worth harvesting early. This is a judgement call and no guide can fully cover all eventualities. Harvest the buds with a clean, sharp knife. The fan leaves are usually discarded although some growers like to use them for cooking. Don’t spoil it now (so close!) by being impatient. The best smoke will come from buds that are dried slowly. Hang the buds separately in a cool, dark, well ventilated area. Allow around 5 days for them to dry properly.  Some growers use microwaves to dry them out more quickly but this is detrimental to both the quality and the taste of the smoke. Don't do it.
اختر مكانًا. جهز المكان. ازرع البذور. وفر لنباتاتك مصدرًا ثابتًا للماء. غذي نباتاتك بالسماد. بعد حوالى 3 أسابيع من الزرع، ابدأ في قطف الحشائش من حول نبتتك. صنف جنس النبات. راقب الإزهار. احصد محصولك. جفف الماريجوانا.