If Mom's around, the weaning process (switching from mother's milk to solid food) happens naturally from about four weeks. At this point, Mom gets tired of the kittens chewing on her teats and starts to spend time apart from them. In turn, the hungry kittens investigate food options around them and usually discover Mom's food. As the kittens start to take mouthfuls of her food, they begin the weaning process. Kittens do not need water until they start weaning, roughly around four weeks old. Any kitten above this age, however, should have constant access to a full water bowl. Change this water whenever it gets dirty (as it tends to if kittens step and/or poop in the bowl). If you've been bottle-feeding the kittens yourself, the weaning process is similar. It sometimes helps to put some milk-replacer in a saucer and put your finger just beneath the surface to teach the kitten to lap first. Then, it's a matter of mashing up some wet kitten food with the milk-replacer to make a porridge for the kitten to lap. As she gets the hang of that you can thicken up the porridge until she's happily taking most of her calories in solid form. Socialization is crucial during the three-to-nine-week window. From two to three weeks of age, handle the kittens as much as possible every day. Introduce them to different sights and sounds, such as the vacuum cleaner, hair dryer, men with beards, children . . . anything you can think of. During this six-week window the kitten is most open to new experiences, and what she encounters now she will accept without question as an adult, making her into a happy, well-adjusted and sociable cat.  Use cat toys, balls, string, or other objects to play with them, but don't use objects small enough for them to swallow. (Note that cats may eat string or yarn if left unsupervised, so only allow this in your interactive play. It's a potential choking hazard.) Don't teach your kittens that human fingers and hands are toys, or the kitten may continue to bite and scratch them as an adult. Choose a spot for the litter box carefully, as once used to it, the kittens will probably continue to use that spot. If litter-training the kittens yourself, simply place the kittens there after each meal, or whenever a kitten starts to crouch and scratch the floor in preparation for pooping. Clean the litter box at least once a day, or the kittens may stop using it.  Choose a box with low sides so it's easy for the kittens to get in and out.  Avoid clumping litter, as kittens may eat the clumps, which could potentially harm their digestion.  If a kitten seems like it doesn't want to stay in the litter box, gently take its paws and imitate digging in the litter. Then, provide the kitten with privacy so it can dig a hole, do its business, and cover it up with some litter. Once your veterinarian allows it, you can let the cat outside to explore. Make sure you keep a close watch on it until you're sure it knows to return home. Let the kitten outside when it's a bit hungry. Entice it back in by calling its name and showing it food. This will remind your kitten that while outdoors is fun, its final destination will always be your home. If selling or giving away the kittens, you should wait until they are at least eight weeks old, but twelve weeks old is preferred. Take them to a vet and start their shots before they leave you. Always follow-up with the new owners to make sure the kitten is getting her shots and is scheduled to be spayed or neutered. Exchange phone numbers with the new owners so you can confirm your kitten is in good hands, or in case the owners want to return her (at least you can help her find another home).
اترك المزيد من طعام القطط. وفر لهم الماء. ضع الطعام الجاف للقطط التي ربيتها بنفسك. احرص على تنشئة قططك اجتماعيًا بتقديمهم لأشياء جديدة. استخدم رملًا لا يتكتل لقضاء الحاجة. أبقي على قطتك داخل المنزل حتى تحصل على كل تطعيماتها. تخل عن قططك بمسئولية.