Put your jeans on and pull the back of the waistband with one hand to adjust it to the right size. Pinch the extra fabric of the waistband with your free hand and secure it with a large safety pin. Pinch just below the safety pin to pull out the excess fabric and secure it with a straight pin. Continue pinching and pinning down the back seam until there is no more excess to pin and your jeans fit well in the waist and hips.  Be careful not to catch your underwear (or your skin!) when you are placing the pins. Try to pin as far down as you can along the seat of the jeans. The further you go down, the less noticeable the transition from the original thread and your new thread will be. Take the jeans off carefully. Place them face up on a flat surface and pull the front waistband down so you can see the inside of the back waistband where you’ve placed the pins. Mark along the center of the pinned seam with fabric chalk, making sure that it leaves a line on both sides of the seam. Then, take out the pins. If you don’t have fabric chalk handy, you can also use a highlighter. Use a seam ripper to take out the top and bottom row of stitches along the waistband. Remove all the stitching of the two rows on the waistband between the chalk marks, plus 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) on each side. Leave the stitching along the top edge of waistband and the seat of the jeans for now. To make sure you don’t rip out too many stitches, try cutting the first and last stitch you would like to take out. Then, pull at the loose threads to take out all the stitching in between. Take off any belt loops between your two chalk lines. To do this, carefully clip away the thread attaching the belt loop(s) to the waistband. If there are any leftover threads from the belt loop after you remove it, leave them in place. Sewing over these when you reattach it later will help disguise the alteration. Carefully cut the stitching on the top edge of the waistband along the same length where you removed the two rows of waistband stitching. Separate the two layers of the waistband. Use a seam ripper to take out the row of stitching on the inside of the jeans from the waistband down to about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below your chalk lines. Remove the corresponding stitching on the outside of the jeans as well to fully separate the seat of the jeans. It may make it easier and more precise to cut the first and last stitch you would like to take out, and then pull at the loose threads to remove all the stitching in between. Fold the waistband across the center back line of the jeans, the midpoint between the two chalk lines. Fold with the right sides (the sides facing towards the outside of the jeans) facing each other, so the folded edge is facing you. Sew where the new altered waistband meets from the top to the bottom of the waistband with a single straight stitch.  To reduce the bulkiness of the new waistband, you can cut off the extra fabric outside of your stitches. Leave about 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) of fabric outside the stitches. Press the cut ends of the fabric with an iron so they open up on each side of the seam.  You may find it easier to pin where you would like to sew and draw a chalk line as well to help keep you on track. Take in the outer waistband, using the inner waistband as a guide. Fold it in the middle, sew it, then trim and press the edges. Pin the seat together by turning the right sides (the outside of the jeans) to face each other. Pin along the chalk lines you made earlier. Sew the seat together with a single straight stitch next to the pins.  It may help to take a hammer and pound the original jean seam you are sewing across in this step. This will flatten out the layers of fabric there and make it easier to sew across.  Try on your jeans after you sew the seat to make sure the seams look straight and properly positioned. If anything looks funny, use your seam ripper to take out the seams and resew that section. To give your altered jeans the same outward appearance again, use topstitching thread to sew from the existing stitching lines up to the waistband in two rows, matching the stitching on the rest of the jeans. Overlap a few stitches with the old stitch line to make it blend together better.  Using a longer stitch length setting on your sewing machine can make the topstitching look more professional. Try 3.5 millimetres (0.14 in) stitch length.  If you have a double needle for your sewing machine, you can also use that to sew both lines of topstitching at once, instead of doing the two lines separately. If you can’t find topstitching thread, you can also try to use two strands of all-purpose thread at the same time to get a chunkier look that will better match the original topstitching.  If your jeans are very worn along the seat area and the topstitching you put in looks too new and out of place, try roughening it up a bit with a nail file. Sew the top and bottom of the belt loop back onto the waistband in the center. Be sure to match the thread color of the other belt loops. It may help to hammer where you will sew first, since you will be sewing through many layers of denim.
वेस्टबैंड (waistband) को पीछे से टाइट खींच लें और पिन से उसे उसकी जगह पर बनाकर रखें: जीन्स के अंदर के हिस्से को पिन की हुई सिलाई के साथ में मार्क कर दें और पिन को बाहर निकाल लें: आपकी मार्किंग के बीच से वेस्टलाइन स्टिचिंग या टाँकों को काट लें, साथ में दोनों साइड्स पर 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) भी काटें: बेल्ट लूप्स निकाल लें: वेस्टबैंड की ऊपरी किनार से और सीट के सेंटर से टाँकों को खोल लें: वेस्टबैंड की अंदर की लेयर को मोड़ें और फिर एक स्ट्रेट स्टिच में उसके ऊपर पूरी सिलाई कर दें: बाहरी वेस्टबैंड के साथ में आल्टरेशन को दोहराएँ: जींस की सीट को एक सिंगल स्ट्रेट स्टिच के साथ वापस फिर से एक-साथ सिल लें: टॉपस्टिचिंग को आपके जीन्स के बाहर एक सिंगल स्ट्रेट स्टिच में सिल लें: बेल्ट लूप को वापस सिंगल स्ट्रेट स्टिच के साथ में सिल दें: