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How does the water depth affect a wave’s velocity?
How do the wind and the shape of the coastline affect the formation of waves?
The wind is the primary initiator of waves. When wind blows over the surface of the water, it creates ripples that grow into waves. The shape of the coastline can affect how waves are formed and how they travel. For example, waves tend to be larger near headlands because they are refracted, or bent, around the land mass.