At Paris Fashion Week in 1991, Sui received one of the first major breakthroughs of her career. Sui was driving with her friend Steven Meisel to see the Jean Paul Gaultier show. On the way to the show, they stopped to pick up Madonna, a friend of Meisel's. Madonna surprised Sui by wearing her clothing to the event. The notoriety Sui received from this event was instantly tremendous and far reaching. Madonna would later wear the same outfit again for Meisel's photoshoot for "Vogue". Sui's first runway show took place later that year upon her return to New York City. From her first show, Sui was known for her light-hearted, whimsical, homemade and entertaining approach to showcasing her collections. The influences came from contemporary shows by designers such as Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier where one of the goals was to charm the audience with the atmosphere created. The atmosphere often had a distinct party vibe and the antics of guests and participants were described as a distinct cultural scene of the period.