In medieval Serbia, clothing and fashion was marked by social distinctions. The most used materials among the lower classes were wool, flax and hemp. Nobility used silk, velvet and taffeta which were imported from Italy, Greece and Flanders via Dubrovnik. In time, the weaving workshops began to open in Serbia itself. The silk was produced in Dečani and Prizren and domestic gold-woven fabrics appear at the court of Emperor Dušan. In time, the colored embroidery developed as the main characteristics of the Serbian medieval attire. The most expensive fabric was "aksamit". It was type of a brocade, interwoven with gold, having a contrast basic colors of the warp and weft. "Hazdija" or "bračin", was a type of velour or velvet. The expensive fabrics were especially handy as gifts during the diplomatic meetings. That way, some exotic fabrics reached Serbia, like "hamuha" or "kamha", Middle Eastern, whole-colored fabric made of the sea silk, the threads produced by the pen shells. "Olovera" was a purple material, sometimes decorated with lion motifs. "Pandaur" included a batch of gold-woven textiles, while often mentioned "faustan" was a thin, cotton material for summer dresses. Influence of the Byzantine fashion was the strongest, while Western influence penetrated later, while the Ottoman impact became evident from the 15th century. There are no evidence that the luxury was forbidden, but there were instructions which ornaments and colors could be used at the court.