opportunity to spend my birthday in this most special way! i was asked to say a few words, and could only manage just that much, as the tears were free-flowing. as i looked over the faces of so many young ones, i tried very hard to memorize them all. it was incredibly important for me to immortalize this moment. according to tradition, the birthday person supplies the drinks and snacks, and a friend gets the cake. the guide i had been talking to for more than a year, before my trip, did just that. the pure delight at being treated to something so simple and abundant in the west, brought 