Cnoidal wave is the wave height, "λ" is the wavelength, "c" is the phase speed and "η" is the trough elevation. Further cn is one of the Jacobi elliptic functions and "K"("m") is the complete elliptic integral of the first kind; both are dependent on the elliptic parameter "m". The latter, "m", determines the shape of the cnoidal wave. For "m" equal to zero the cnoidal wave becomes a cosine function, while for values close to one the cnoidal wave gets peaked crests and (very) flat troughs. For values of "m" less than 0.95, the cnoidal function can be approximated with trigonometric
Wind wave Wave refraction is the process that occurs when waves interact with the sea bed as the wave crests align themselves as a result of approaching decreasing water depths at an angle to the depth contours. Varying depths along a wave crest cause the crest to travel at different phase speeds, with those parts of the wave in deeper water moving faster than those in shallow water. This process continues until the crests become (nearly) parallel to the depth contours. Rays—lines normal to wave crests between which a fixed amount of energy flux is contained—converge on local shallows and shoals. Therefore,