Wind wave may be written as: where C is speed (in meters per second), g is the acceleration due to gravity, and d is the depth of the water (in meters). The period of a wave remains unchanged regardless of the depth of water through which it is moving. As deep-water waves enter the shallows and feel the bottom, however, their speed is reduced and their crests "bunch up," so their wavelength shortens. As waves travel from deep to shallow water, their shape alters (wave height increases, speed decreases, and length decreases as wave orbits become asymmetrical). This process is called shoaling.
Acoustic wave wave becomes a travelling wave moving rightwards, for formula_14 the wave becomes a travelling wave moving leftwards. A standing wave can be obtained by formula_15. In a travelling wave pressure and particle velocity are in phase, which means the phase angle between the two quantities is zero. This can be easily proven using the ideal gas law where Consider a volume formula_18. As an acoustic wave propagates through the volume, adiabatic compression and decompression occurs. For adiabatic change the following relation between volume formula_18 of a parcel of fluid and pressure formula_2 holds where As a sound wave propagates through