Wave shoaling and the angular frequency is proportional to its local rate of change, Simplifying to one dimension and cross-differentiating it is now easily seen that the above definitions indicate simply that the rate of change of wavenumber is balanced by the convergence of the frequency along a ray; Assuming stationary conditions (formula_27), this implies that wave crests are conserved and the frequency must remain constant along a wave ray as formula_28. As waves enter shallower waters, the decrease in group velocity caused by the reduction in water depth leads to a reduction in wave length formula_29 because the nondispersive shallow water
Trochoidal wave Trochoidal wave In fluid dynamics, a trochoidal wave or Gerstner wave is an exact solution of the Euler equations for periodic surface gravity waves. It describes a progressive wave of permanent form on the surface of an incompressible fluid of infinite depth. The free surface of this wave solution is an inverted (upside-down) trochoid – with sharper crests and flat troughs. This wave solution was discovered by Gerstner in 1802, and rediscovered independently by Rankine in 1863. The flow field associated with the trochoidal wave is not irrotational: it has vorticity. The vorticity is of such a specific strength and