Fustanella have also influenced the evolution of the fustanella based on statues of Roman emperors wearing knee-length pleated skirts (in colder regions, more folds were added to provide greater warmth). Folklorist Ioanna Papantoniou considers the Celtic kilt, as viewed by the Roman legions, to have served as a prototype. Sir Arthur Evans considered the fustanella of the female peasants (worn over and above the Slavonic apron) living near the modern Bosnian-Montenegrin borders as a preserved Illyrian element among the local Slavic-speaking populations. In the Byzantine Empire, a pleated skirt known as the "podea" (Greek: ποδέα) was worn. The wearer of the
Confirmation dress a quarter of a yard wide. Bias folds simulate a Pompadour waist. White silk buttons close the corsage... A white veil completes the costume." Other common traditional designs included a visible lack of shaping in the bodice to de-emphasize the female figure, with waist definition provided by a belt and gathered skirts. In April 1874, "Harper's Bazaar" stated that white dresses of white silk, tartalan and tulle were being made in abundance in New York for Confirmations and First Communions. These designs featured 'puffs' in the skirt and sleeves, and ruffle trims. A black dress was worn in the 19th