Fustanella have also influenced the evolution of the fustanella based on statues of Roman emperors wearing knee-length pleated skirts (in colder regions, more folds were added to provide greater warmth). Folklorist Ioanna Papantoniou considers the Celtic kilt, as viewed by the Roman legions, to have served as a prototype. Sir Arthur Evans considered the fustanella of the female peasants (worn over and above the Slavonic apron) living near the modern Bosnian-Montenegrin borders as a preserved Illyrian element among the local Slavic-speaking populations. In the Byzantine Empire, a pleated skirt known as the "podea" (Greek: ποδέα) was worn. The wearer of the
Squaw dress consisting of a skirt and a blouse. They were made with cotton or calico print. The skirt part of the dress is pleated, gathered or fully gathered with three-tiers. The dresses were often colorful and incorporated rickrack as well. The hemlines sometimes copied Native American basket designs. Many squaw dresses would be accessorized with "concho" belts, squash blossom necklaces and turquoise earrings. Later versions of the squaw dress included metallic fabrics and glitter. The garment was described as being comfortable and flattering to most figures, according to "The Arizona Republic". The dresses were lightweight and comfortable to wear on hot