Pesto became a staple in the Ligurian culinary tradition, with each family often featuring its own pesto recipe (with slight differences to the traditional ingredients). This is the main reason why pesto recipes often differ from each other. In 1944, "The New York Times" mentioned an imported canned pesto paste. In 1946, "Sunset" magazine published a pesto recipe by Angelo Pellegrini. Pesto did not become popular in North America until the 1980s and 1990s. Pesto is traditionally prepared in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle. First, garlic and pine nuts are placed in the mortar and reduced to a cream,
Zanthoxylum piperitum the aroma. The young leaves are crushed and blended with miso using "suribachi" (mortar) to make a paste, a pesto sauce of sorts, and then used to make various "aemono" (tossed salad). The stereotypical main ingredient for the resultant "kinome-ae" is the fresh harvest of bamboo shoots, but the sauce may be tossed (or delicately "folded") into sashimi, clams, squid or other vegetable such as "tara-no-me" (angelica-tree shoots). The immature green berries, blanched and salted, are called "ao-zanshō" (). The berries are traditionally simmered into dark-brown "tsukudani", but nowadays are also available as "shoyu-zuke", which is just steeped in soy