Bohemian style was not really until the First World War that "many working women ... embarked on a revolution in fashion that greatly reduced the weight and restrictions imposed on them by their clothing". Some women working in factories wore trousers and the brassiere (invented in 1889 by the feminist Herminie Cadolle and patented in America by Mary Phelps Jacob in 1914) began gradually to supersede the corset. In shipyards "trouser suits" (the term, "pantsuit" was adopted in America in the 1920s) were virtually essential to enable women to shin up and down ladders. Music hall artists also helped to push the
Jacob (clothing retailer) mid-forties. They are known for a more formal attire compared to Jacob Connexion (listed below) including business suits and semi-formal dresses into their line of clothing. Sizes range from XS-L. The line includes jewellery and accessories along with dress pants, sweaters, cardigans, dress shirts, blouses, knit tunics, leggings, etc. Most Jacob stores are set up to have Jacob Lingerie embedded within, some are located side by side. The store was cited in "The Globe and Mail" in 2005 as being part of the retail movement to supply women over 35 years old, which included Gap and Yzza, a new brand