Bohemian style was not really until the First World War that "many working women ... embarked on a revolution in fashion that greatly reduced the weight and restrictions imposed on them by their clothing". Some women working in factories wore trousers and the brassiere (invented in 1889 by the feminist Herminie Cadolle and patented in America by Mary Phelps Jacob in 1914) began gradually to supersede the corset. In shipyards "trouser suits" (the term, "pantsuit" was adopted in America in the 1920s) were virtually essential to enable women to shin up and down ladders. Music hall artists also helped to push the
Violet Jacob Folk Band "Malinky" have also released a version of Norlan' Wind. Violet Jacob Violet Jacob (1 September 1863 – 9 September 1946) was a Scottish writer, now known especially for her historical novel "Flemington" and for her poetry, mainly in Scots. She was described by Hugh MacDiarmid as "the most considerable of contemporary vernacular poets". She was born Violet Augusta Mary Frederica Kennedy-Erskine, the daughter of William Henry Kennedy-Erskine (1 July 1828 – 15 September 1870) of Dun, Forfarshire, a Captain in the 17th Lancers and Catherine Jones (died 13 February 1914), the only daughter of William Jones of Henllys,