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Dress reformers therefore moved the emphasis to reforming underwear. But even though hooped crinolines were going out of fashion, long dragging skirts remained the norm. In 1881, the Society for Rational Dress was formed in London, opposing tight corsets, high heels, and unwieldy skirts.
Because of this, dresses were expensive, and only the wealthy could afford a large wardrobe. The less fortunate wore cast-offs, clothing from second-hand shops, or sewed their own. After the invention of the sewing machine in 1851, the industry began to change.