The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue
*Starred Review* Stomachs will ache at the thought of cabeza de vaca (cow&#x2019;s head), beef clod (beef shoulder), or barbecue brisket (among other delicacies). Undeterred, architect and barbecue fanatic Vaughn, along with photographer Nicholas McWhirter and occasional sidekicks, did a hunting, gathering, and tasting journey throughout Texas to find the best barbecue. Out of the 186 places sampled, only 5 made his best list; the journey to him, though, is worth it. Beginning with the universal definition of barbecue as simply seasoned meat cooked to tenderness over hardwood smoke, the author not only delivers a running commentary on the goodness (or lack thereof) of the proteins, sides, and desserts, he also gives an almost-native&#x2019;s perspective on the culture. Joints close when they run out of meat, often at 2 p.m., sometimes earlier. Fat counts: The value of well-smoked fat cannot be understated. So do desserts; there&#x2019;s nothing better, Vaughn states, to counteract protein overload than a bit of something sweet. At the end, 20-ish pit masters are singled out for the specialties (mutton ribs, anyone?), providing quasi-recipes (details on meat, rub, wood, pit, fire, cooking time, it&#x2019;s done when . . . suggestions, resting, and other pro tips) with the assumption that you&#x2019;ll know how to interpret this shorthand. The first in a series of Anthony Bourdain&#x2013;branded books. --Barbara Jacobs