title: No major tick marks showing using seaborn white style and cannot restore
body: <p>When I generate plots using the seaborn &quot;white&quot; style I see major tick <strong>labels</strong> but I don't see any major tick <strong>marks</strong>.</p>
  <p>Setting major tick marks to be bigger using...</p>
  <pre><code>%matplotlib inline
  
  import seaborn as sns
  import matplotlib.pyplot as plt
  
  sns.set_style('white', {'axes.linewidth': 0.5})
  plt.rcParams['xtick.major.size'] = 20
  plt.rcParams['xtick.major.width'] = 4
  
  fig, ax = plt.subplots()
  plt.show()
  </code></pre>
  <p>...has no effect.</p>
  <p>I can't find any option that would make the tick <strong>marks</strong> visible/invisible.</p>
  <p>Anybody have any clues?</p>