The dishes at restaurants developed centered on the urban areas, for example, "rusui-jaya" teahouses where the domain's diplomatic officials were regulars, were eaten while drinking sake in eating styles not restricted as honzen or kaiseki (懐石), and these dishes were called kaiseki (会席)-ryori dishes (the dishes served mostly today).
また、都市部を中心に発達したお留守居茶屋などの料亭の料理は、酒を飲みながら料理を食べる形式で本膳や懐石のように作法にあまりとらわれないのが特徴であり、これを会席料理と称した（現在最も多く行われているのはこの会席料理である）。