The designs worn by retired emperors and imperial princes were 'hachiyogiku' (eight leaved chrysanthemum), 'rindo karakusa' (gentian floral pattern), 'kumo tatewaku' (vertical seething clouds, this design was previously also used by regents and the father of the imperial advisor but now only worn by imperial princes), and many kuge wore 'yato maru' (eight wisteria circle), young men wore 'fusecho no maru' (prostrated butterfly circle) on a tortoise shell patterned fabric, boys wore designs including 'toridasuki' (interlocking circular units comprising eight stylized birds around a central floral diamond) while there were also cases in which a family would use a particular design.
文様は、（近世以降天皇は指貫を穿かなくなった）上皇や親王は「八葉菊」「竜胆唐草」「雲立涌」（雲立涌はかつて摂政や太閤も使ったが、現代の親王は雲立涌のみ）、公卿に多かったのは「八藤丸」で、少年は「亀甲地紋に臥蝶丸」若年者は「鳥襷」なども使った他、一族で固有の文様を使う場合もあった。