The kosode (small sleeves; the standard size kimono of today) put on below was decided to be noshime (a plaid kimono), or katabira (light summer garment) which status was distinguished by colors.
下に着る小袖は、江戸期には正式には熨斗目もしくは帷子（夏季）と定められ、色目にも身分差が設けられた。