Generally, the design is the wearer's family crest, but in the feudal age the design was occasionally the family crest of the wearer's feudal lord (or other authority), which was dyed on the kosode bestowed from them.
紋付に入れる紋は着用者の家紋である場合が多いが、場合によっては主君やそのほかの権威者から紋の入った小袖を拝領することもあった。