Regulations dictating which fabrics could be used had been established since the period of cloistered rule, which stated that woven fabrics were to be worn during formal events and lightweight or twill fabrics were to be used for everyday wear.
院政期以降に使用する生地に規定が出来て、式典などの晴れの舞台では織物、日常着には綾や薄物が使用された。