A twilled fabric with a pattern woven on it (neriusu (a silk fabric woven from raw silk and glossed silk), nuitori or kenmonsha (gauze with a clear pattern) in summer) for tokkyu (the first level of status) and ikkyu (the second level of status), patterned aya (a twilled fabric) (neriusu or kenmonsha in summer) for nikyu-jo (the third level of status) and nikyu, patterned aya (kenmonsha in summer) for sankyu and yonkyu.
特級・一級は綾地に縫取（夏は練薄・縫取・顕文紗）二級上・二級は有文綾（夏は練薄・顕文紗）三・四級は有文綾（夏は顕文紗）