During the Tensho era, wabicha (wabi style of tea ceremony) was formed among the townspeople who lived in Sakai and a meal with one soup and three (or two) side dishes became established as the form of the meal.
天正年間には堺の町衆を中心としてわび茶が形成されており、その食事の形式として一汁三菜（或いは一汁二菜）が定着した。