According to the record when Kitayamain (the wife of Yoshimitsu ASHIKAGA and the Emperor Gokomatsu's mother equivalent) was sent to court to marry the emperor, many lady servants wore kogoshi with the same color as karaginu, and it implied that kogoshi attracted attention and at the same time, color matching with kogoshi and karaginu was establishing then.
北山院（足利義満夫人・後小松天皇准母）の入内（正式参内）の記録によると供奉の多くの女房の小腰が唐衣と同じ色と記されており、この頃から小腰が注目され始め、同時に唐衣と配色をあわせる風習が成立しはじめていたことをうかがわせる。