When the time advanced to the late Muromachi period (the Sengoku Period (Period of Warring States)), because of the revolt of vassals against their lords and poor security, active kosode with smaller sleeves were adopted as formal outer wear of wives of samurais, and at the time of Shokuho (Oda-Toyotomi era), a type of gorgeous uchikake (a full length formal and elegant outer robe) style kosodes were made as was seen in the portrait of Lady Oichi no kata.
室町時代後期（戦国時代(日本)）になると、下克上や治安の低下などから、袖が小さく活動的な小袖が表着として武家の夫人の正装に採用されるようになり、織豊時代にはお市の方肖像画に見られるような豪華な打ち掛け型の小袖などが作られるようになった。