According to the records written between the late Heian period and Kamakura period, women wore mokaraginu (juni hitoe) with no mo (long pleated skirts) and karaginu (a waist length Chinese style jacket), and wore red osode and green mo over the uchigi (a series of brightly colored unlined robes that create a layered effect) and shoes, decorating their hair with golden Chinese phoenix brooch, while holding a fan and shade.
平安時代後期―鎌倉時代の記録によると、裳唐衣（十二単）の裳と唐衣を取り、袿を重ねた上に赤い大袖と緑の裳をつけ、髪に金の鳳凰の徴をさし、扇と翳（さしば。うちわ）を持ち、くつをはいたという。