Goyo zakaya is said to have begun with the first Mataemon KAYANOMORI, who was of the Nara school of sake, which has the tradition of soboshu (sake brewed in major temples) that was known as a famous sake-brewing district before Itami became famous; Introduced by Munenori YAGYU, Masamune DATE ordered him to make the jonai-zume-onsake-goyo (making of sake especially for the feudal lord inside the castle) in Sendai Domain in 1608.
御用酒屋の中では、伊丹が有名になる前に銘醸地の聞こえが高かった僧坊酒の伝統を汲む奈良流から、柳生宗矩の紹介で伊達政宗に紹介され、慶長13年（1608年）に仙台藩の城内詰御酒御用（じょうないづめおんさけごよう）を命じられた初代榧森又右衛門（かやのもり・またえもん）が最初とされる。