From the late Heian period (insei period (during the period of the government by the retired Emperor)) to the early Kamakura period, an explosive booming of kosode had come among the court nobles, and to wear many kosodes woven with luxurious textile layering instead of simple uchikake (ordinary kimono) was prevailing, however, it was often prohibited by ordinance because it was too expensive.
平安後期（院政期）から鎌倉時代初期には貴族の間に爆発的な小袖ブームが訪れ、袿の代わりに豪華な織物で仕立てた小袖を何重にもまとうことが流行するが、余りにもお金がかかるためにしばしば禁止令が出される。