arthur schwartz 's treatise , `` naples at table '' -lrb- harpercollins , $ 27.50 -rrb- , was published in 1998 ; rao 's , a venerable neapolitan -style spot in new york 's east harlem , has become so chic that it 's opening a midtown branch ; and tony may , naples-born but hitherto a champion of northern italian food at san domenico , has put the kind of dishes he ate in his childhood on the menu at gemelli , his world trade center outpost .