The front row at Self-Portrait’s Fall 2018 show in February was packed with “superinfluencers” like Aimee Song, Camila Coelho, Chriselle Lim, and Jamie Chung. They’re among dozens of women who are often paid by brands to attend fashion shows and share the experience with their millions of Instagram followers (all while dressed in looks by the designer, of course). You might start to wonder if they actually like the clothes or if they’re just being commissioned to drive traffic, but at Self-Portrait, the affection is genuine. For starters, many of these girls are real-life friends with designer Han Chong, and his clothes are a perfect storm of Instagram-friendliness: They’re pretty and feminine, but structured, so they add angles to a photo, and they aren’t so over the top that they don’t look good IRL, too. It’s a tricky balance; plenty of Self-Portrait’s imitators make tops and dresses that look out of place beyond an iPhone screen, because they’re too bright, too trendy, and have a single-use purpose; wear it again, and everyone will remember. Those copies stand to cheapen Self-Portrait’s signatures, which is one reason Chong adopted the pre-collection model of The Row, Céline, and a handful other luxury brands: He hosts Resort and Pre-Fall appointments “in season”—for this collection, it was in January—but holds the images until the clothes arrive in stores. It reduces the potential for copycats and excites the Self-Portrait customer, and it appears to be a win-win.