Thierry Glantenay Volnay 'Caillerets' 1er Cru 2017
1 or more bottles$240.00
The Wine Advoca91-93 points
"The disarmingly modest Thierry Glantenay is emerging as one of the Côte de Beaune's most exciting producers of red wine." -William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Perhaps the Glantenays are not well known because not much was bottled and sold under the family name - for three main reasons; Bernard’s reputation as a fastidious farmer, the wealth of his ‘terroir’ – Caillerets, Clos des Chênes, Santenots, Rugiens, Folatières… and the fact that they had mostly old vines. The ‘courtiers’ that often came knocking had very good money to offer for the wine and Bernard found it hard to refuse the likes of Dominique Laurent, Lalou Bize Leroy and Louis Jadot. In fact, this year, Domique Laurent came knocking for a barrel of Pommard Rugiens this year but Thierry chose not to sell. Don't miss these 2017's !
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- Red Fruits
- Red Cherry
Critic Scores & reviews
The Wine Advocate91-93
"The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets was also showing well, offering up pretty aromas of dried flowers, orange rind, red berries and coniferous forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, tensile and elegant, with a tight-knit core, chalky structuring tannins and a juicy line of acidity. As I noted earlier this year, this parcel was planted in 1962 with the domaine's finest genetic material and always sees the most whole cluster fermentation of any in the range—this year, 50%"
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Wine is being produced throughout France and has been done for over 2,500 years with certain Châteaux dating their history back to Roman times, around 6th Century BC. Ranking second in the world in per-capita consumption and first in total production quantity. More so than the overall quantity of wine is the quantity of truly great wines coming out of France makes the nation the envy of wine-making nations worldwide.
Two concepts pivotal to the higher end French wines, in particular, are the idea of 'terroir' and the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system. Terroir refers to the way the geography, geology and climate find their way into the glass, telling a story of the origin of the wine. The AOC was set up in 1935 and has the primary goal of protecting the authenticity of the wines and the livelihoods of the producers. Appellation rules strictly define which varieties of grapes and winemaking practices are approved for classification in each of France's several hundred geographically defined appellations, which can cover entire regions, individual villages or in some cases, like in Burgundy even specific vineyards.
Classic wine regions in France include Champagne (home of Champagne), Burgundy (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot), Alsace (Aromatic varietals), Loire Valley (Chenin Blanc, Crémant) and the Rhône Valley (Syrah, Grenache Mourvedre)
The Bordeaux classification of 1855 is still in use, as is the Sauternes and Barsac Classification of the same year. Wines from certain regions can be bought En Primeur, which is when the wine is sold prior to it being bottled.
Burgundy is undoubtedly the home of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnays in the world, where vineyards, or Domaines have been producing wines for over 2000 years. Burgundy is located in the North-east of France, an hours drive from Lyon and 2 hours from Paris. With over 100 appellations, or sub-regions (more than any other wine region) Burgundy is known for being the most terroir-oriented region in the World. The finest red wines of Burgundy are found in the Côte d'Or, a string of villages including Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey St Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St Georges.
There are flavours present in great Burgundys that are the envy of Pinot Noir producers worldwide. The elusive peacocks tail finish that goes on and on, and the pretty-elegance backed by Burgundy muscle is the goal of winemakers around the globe. The main levels in the Burgundy classifications, in descending order of quality, are: Grand crus, Premier crus, village appellations, and finally regional appellations. For the Chablis wines, a similar hierarchy of Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village wines is used, plus Petit Chablis as a level below Village Chablis.
Nestled within the stunning Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy, France lies the quaint and picturesque village of Volnay. Characterized by a steep and narrow terrain, this appellation boasts an ideal southeast-facing position for its vineyards, which are exclusively dedicated to producing exquisite red wines made from the revered Pinot Noir grape variety.
The wines of Volnay are highly regarded for their exceptional aromatic complexity and opulent character, making them among the most sought-after wines in the entire Côte de Beaune. These wines typically exhibit a brilliant range of hues, from bright ruby to light garnet. Their intense and captivating aromatics often include delightful notes of fragrant violets, succulent gooseberries, and succulent cherries. As these wines age, they develop additional complexities on the nose, including hints of spicy notes, game, and even cooked prunes.
On the palate, Volnay wines are characterized by their lighter body, which is a hallmark of Pinot Noir wines. These wines showcase a delicate balance of fruit, acidity, and tannins, providing a refreshing and elegant drinking experience. Overall, Volnay's wines offer a unique and memorable expression of the Pinot Noir grape variety, capturing the essence of this remarkable appellation and its exceptional terroir.
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About the brand Thierry Glantenay
Thierry Glantenay I have following since his 2006 vintage which was just four years after his first vintage solo in 2002. He made 1999-2001 together with his father Bernard Thierry and Marie-Neige have two young daughters and live in the Glantenay family home on the Volnay’s Rue de Vaut which is the highest street in Volnay after the village and has an impressive and expansive view of the appellation below. In fact just below them is the Marquis d’Angerville’s 1er Cru vineyard ‘Clos des Ducs’. The winemaking equipment that Thierry inherited was functional but it was getting old and Thierry, from 2008 invested everything he had into a new press, tanks, peristaltic pumps and two ‘tables de tri’ including a vibrating table to optimise sorting. In late 2015 he built a fully restored cellar underneath his house, the final piece in the puzzle in his quest for quality. He know has the best equipment and a great, functional space to produce wine. My view is that from 2015 and onwards, his wines truly shine.
It is established that the very greatest wines in Burgundy are made by growers not by Negociants. Negociants can't control enough in the vines to reach the real pinnacle and many buy nearly finished wine. Some make excellent wine, it is true, but it because they are talented winemakers.
The greatest Burgundies are made by those who are equally talented winemakers (or perhaps better) but who also own and farm their vines; working hard and with the intuition and counsel of the past generation(s) - it is the genesis of skill both in the vines and in the cellar that produces the best. Thierry is a talented winemaker and farms the family vines; the results are in the glass.
-William Kelley is the new reviewer at the Wine Advocate.