How does one make the external connecting cable stay flush against the wall and the light fixture edge without damaging the cable ? In other words, how much can we tighten the light fixture against the wall without pinching and damaging the cable?
1197586
You're quite right NOT to pinch the cable. You can use a tapered round file to file a small semi-circular hole in the fixture close to where you want the cable to exit. That shouldn't damage anything and shouldn't be visible. In my situation the siding has channels so the cable had a natural pathway. Hope this is helpful.
2222946
Since the velvet bracket edges of the screen are slanted inward, I would think the distance is less that 1/2". I have not touched my screen to press it against the wall behind, but the screen is close to the wall for sure. If there is any way relocate the light switch where you will be hanging the screen, I would move the switch before hand. Kelly
640240
Hi, Maybe I can help. The lamp plugs directly into the wall outlet via a very, very long circular, "lamp cord" with a three-pronged plug at the end. The lamp cord is about as thick as the one used by my cable company to wire my cable TV system. It is also less flexible than a typical lamp cord. To attach the lamp to the ceiling the company includes a metal hook that you screw directly into the ceiling, sort of like the hooks you use to hang a plant (only less decorative), AND a three inch long "S" shaped piece of plastic with a small hole at one end. To attach the lamp to the ceiling, first screw in the metal hook. Then, attach the "S" shaped plastic piece to the hook using the small hole on the end. Finally, you thread the lamp cord "in" and "out" of the "S" shaped piece of plastic. The lamp is held in place by the tension created by "threading" the lamp cord through the "S" shaped piece of plastic. Sorry for being "long-winded", but I hoped this helps. BTW, I use mine in my bedroom suspended above the end table with a 40 watt yellow light bulb, and I like it very much. Also, it is very utilitarian looking, not fancy. I happen to like that look.
185327
That sounds like what I did, and the results were quite satisfactory. I started near the USB port on the back, went up one side of the back several inches from the edge, made a right-angle turn, then across the back near the top, another right angle, and down near the other edge. The tape does not do a "flat" bend very well, so in my case, about 2 inches of the tape did not stay stuck to the TV case. I planned for the bends to be between 2 LEDs, so now those two LEDs shine more outward than backward. The resulting dispersion of the light works fine for me.
1379756
It is set up for hard wire installation into a box, and requires a box behind to stabilize the weight. I would not advise buying this for the application you are describing but perhaps you should consult with a licensed electrician to see if he or she could attach a plug and figure out how to stablize the fixture on the wall.
1015761
There is a screw that you need to tighten after putting the rod through the hole of the light elbow. It may be that you have it on the wrong orientation, that is, sideways instead of being upright or the rod doesn't go all the way through to the end of the socket because your screw is somehow in the way.
328358
Hi KarlYes, my light also has the same configuration. Not sure what the additional hole is for but there is a corresponidng hole in my light socket. I think some light poles and sockets have 3 pins, presumably for additional power or lighting options. Alternatively it just may be to allow water to drain out so that water doesn't build up and short out the wiring.RegardsRob
1194547
there is a hole drilled in the glass that holds the shelf to the bracket, so they can't be moved. I have a problem with some of my larger components that have thicker cables/bigger connectors behind them. I am considering going to a Glass place and having them just cut me a larger shelf from glass that looks the same. Another option, for the connectors at least, is mounting a piece of 2x4 to the stud, then mounting the wall mount to the 2x4, giving me another 1.5" behind the components to work with. If I cut it to the right size and paint it with a flat black paint I think it will blend right in.
1081497
I checked my daughters light and I didn't see anything to tighten. I assume that maybe one of the little round circles on the side of the base might pop off and that maybe you could then get to a screw to tighten. I didn't want to pop anything off on hers in case I'm wrong and it couldn't be put back on. Her mirror is still really tight where it just stays wherever it is placed. Could you fold a small piece of paper and put between the outer ring and the mirror itself and wedge it in such a way that it will stay put where you want it? Sorry I couldn't be of any more help than that.
1801628
Pushing this through a hole rather defeats the purpose. Install a standard light socket, then screw this in to it like a lightbulb. Much easier and more flexible for additional options. I know this post is old, but since people still read the Q&A; I thought I'd post another answer.
781738
It needs to be a little bit away from the wall. For me, I'm using an extension cord that the cord comes out the side and has flat profile. Then I can push it all the way to the wall.
2275789
I wondered the same thing when I first put the light together. The best I can tell you is, I don't think it's designed to be tightened. When it is balanced as in the photo, the light is heavy enough to keep the tube from sliding in the grip. If you've done that and still can't get it to work, buy a small clamp and fasten it on the tube above the grip as a stop. At least that should keep it from sliding.
1663810
For me I just set the rounded depression on the bottom of the light on the handle bar. I took the smaller rubber band and wrapped it over the front groove of the mount, then stretched it under the bar and over the groove on the back of the mount. The tension in the rubber band held it tightly in place. Please tell me what is happening for you and I will try to help.
508414
I used led lights but, I see no reason it wouldn't. It will touch the walls though
327252
I just have hose clamps holding mine. But then mine is easily accessible should the attachment fail. With that in mind if you use adhesive then to fix a break or hose tear you would have to get a new fixture. I would suggest using the hose clamps first.
1491272
Every toslink/optical cable I've ever used has indeed snapped in. It is not a real hard snap in though.It certainly should not be falling out, the connection point on your device may be damaged.Do you have any other input to try so you can see if it is just the one input that is not snapping in?
1149452
I do not. I have 3 2x4's on either side of the metal frame and there is only 8 inches from the edge of the frame to the perpendicular walls. This means the wall cannot flex nor can the frame. It could be that your fixture is not bolted to the large threaded studs tightly enough, which is an easy problem yo fix.