Smooth underside of table - to make it possible to use additional c-clamps? (Or is the underside a corrugated / plastic molding with fins, etc.?)
1808151
it has several fins or reinforcements but I haven't had a problem in putting on any clamps remember the table comes with 4 built into top that can be used as well......
1808152
The underside is a grid of plastic molding. As you use your clamp it would be possible to secure a square of wood as a base to help steady and secure it. Or the feet of the clamp may well fit in between the ridges of the molding.
668978
Gonzalo. Your application is exactly the way I used my simple drafting table until this last year, when I optioned to move it to a shelf nearby to elevate the light. I just use two lamp tubes in my particular application, to reduce glare; and it's for that reason I elevated it more. Having said that, I looked up the table you described, and can't tell if you have a surface to clamp to. If you leave your elevated surface up most of the time I can see how you might clamp the light to the part of the table that isn't tilted up. From the picture of your table I can't tell if the elevated portion (Looks like some sort of glass) has a surface you can clamp to. Hope this is of help to you. Frank Gonzalo. Your application is exactly the way I used my simple drafting table until this last year, when I optioned to move it to a shelf nearby to elevate the light. I just use two lamp tubes in my particular application, to reduce glare; and it's for that reason I elevated it more. Having said that, I looked up the table you described, and can't tell if you have a surface to clamp to. If you leave your elevated surface up most of the time I can see how you might clamp the light to the part of the table that isn't tilted up. From the picture of your table I can't tell if the elevated... » Read More Gonzalo. Your application is exactly the way I used my simple drafting table until this last year, when I optioned to move it to a shelf nearby to elevate the light. I just use two lamp tubes in my particular application, to reduce glare; and it's for that reason I elevated it more. Having said that, I looked up the table you described, and can't tell if you have a surface to clamp to. If you leave your elevated surface up most of the time I can see how you might clamp the light to the part of the table that isn't tilted up. From the picture of your table I can't tell if the elevated portion (Looks like some sort of glass) has a surface you can clamp to. Hope this is of help to you. Frank « Show Less
927022
If you have a "lip" underneath your wooden table then the clamps won't touch the wood. The clamp apparatus extends over the "lip" but it doesn't actually touch the wood. The chair still is attached firmly when we use it. Hope this helps answer the question.
51001
The peace under the arm that you twist to make it tight to the table can be on something that is not perfectly flat. However, it should be on something basically flat and in such a way that it will not slide. If it slides then you are in trouble. If it goes on crooked but in such a way that it is not going to move around you should be fine, within limits of course. The under table clamp is 1/2" or maybe a more from the edge of the table. so, if the decorative bevel is not too deep or does not extend too far from the edge of the table it should be find. I suspect you could have a decorative bevel one inch below the bottom of the table that extends one inch of the edge of the table and the arm will work find. No guarantee, but I feel reasonable confident that should not be a problem. If the clamping part hits the bevel but also hits the bottom of the table and will tighten in that position you should also be find. Again, no guarantees but I believe that would also work. Good luck, it's a great arm and very strong. The mounting bracket has several adjustments and in the worse case you can drill a single small hole through the table and put the locking peace directly under the table and it doesn't matter what that hole is. You can mount in in the middle of your desk (bad idea) or off to the side or close to the front, whatever you want, but you have to be willing to drill the hole. Good luck.
990143
The black part at the bottom is plastic and also attached to a spring, so when you pull it down it has tension and wraps over the table. I actually have not used mine since I got it if you want to buy it from me by the way. Just contact me directly
781685
2" thick isn't a problem, the allowable depth for the bolts that hold it in place are just under 3". As for it being recessed, it depends. There are two bolts on the underside that would be about 1" from the edge of what you're attaching it to. The bolts have flat disks on the end that you screw up tight against the underside of the table. You could conceivably have each bolt at different depths since they operate independently. But, if they happen to hit on the edge of the recessed area where they can't be flat against the underside, then that would be a problem. This is a link to a pic I just took of mine so you have an idea of what you're dealing with. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzfelt1twuPvVGJHUlFobndCU2M/edit?usp=sharing
597990
No. Sadly that was very similar to my issue and wouldn't clamp for my table. It pretty much has to be a flat surface like pictured or it won't work. If I was in your situation -- I wouldn't buy it. Best of luck though.
1397089
There is a clamp that opens up to 2.5" that is used with a flex arm, item GN086-12-SBH. Another option is to get an HD003 that screws to the table. Jeff - Hold Your Tablet
1807597
My table has no slope. It has a very smooth surface. I use it to play games on and have had no issues at all.
77722
There is a wooden bar attached to the underside of one edge of the table, that the opposite leg rest against. It works very well and simplifies setting it up
567998
I don't understand what you mean by "the table top slants downward" - do you mean front to back or side-to-side? Mine is level in all directions so it's possible that the bolts under yours are loose and/or have shims (washers) incorrectly installed. The framework under the top should be level; if not there many be a manufacturing error.
2245951
i just checked and the answer is yes. hope this is of some help to you. the table is very nice. good finish, true to size and i would trust this maker again. good luck
2224539
Thanks for the heads-up. I previously had a table with a similar pedestal footprint base, so am not used to leaning on the table top. Love to hear what others say.
1872608
Since you need to have the top of plate and table at the same plane, it seems your choices are to reduce the thickness of the plate either locally ( at the edges) or totally, or to deepen the lipped recess in the table. One less dramatic option would be to laminate the table to correct the difference.
1768516
It looks like you need at least 2 inches. It is very adjustable to table thickness but not depth. The two clamp rods have disks at their ends that are just under 2 inches wide. You could try cutting a small hole in the side of the desk and sliding the clamp in?
1219461
The piece for the top of the clamp is wide enough and has some foam/rubber attached. I put a block of wood about 3" wide, 10-12" long, and about 3/4" deep on the underside. I glued a piece of foam from the craft store to the glass-facing side. It worked really well. What I meant to say was attach the rubber to the block to stop/reduce slippage and to avoid scratching the desk.
1402588
The blocks underneath are not so much clamps as they are stops. There main purpose is to keep the shelf from move left to right by capturing the tub in between its jaws. When I set mine up its with a little bit of clearance so after I bolted the blocks in place I no longer have to adjust it. I just drop it on. Your issue with the curved walls, I not sure. The under blocks are 3/4" thick son as long as the curves are the same on both sides of the tub, and dont go past that 3/4" with curve you might be ok. Try it if it dont work send it back. Its a great item. ONe last thing the bolts that clamp the blocks to the plank were a bit long I cut them down to shorten them from sticking out. Regards,