Any help on on what numbers the thermocouple go on? and the rest? I got power to it, but the "manual" is worthless to a newbie .its for a kiln.
1781925
If you are using a J or K type thermocouple, they would go on 9 and 10. With the red wire going on the one labeled (-). Red is (-) on thermocouples and White or Yellow is (+). If you are using a platinum thermocouple it would go on 8 and 10.
1222287
I want to know how to set it upTo get ready to learn how to us this welder ,can you help me with some instruction.
1688419
The majority of the posts are positive. However, a few fuss about "breakage" and/or the heating element dying out after a couple of uses.What model is yours? I am begining to comprehend the proper uses and the best recipes, but "model numbers" are not given with the posts.MML
779795
Just connect a wire from the positive side of the fan motor to one lead of your indicator light. Connect the second lead from the light to ground. I used a red LED lamp purchased from Radio Shack and mounted it to the fan's On/Off switch plate. Remember to connect the wire to the fan motor itself, not to the positive side of the thermostatic switch. Connecting to the thermo-switch will only tell you there is power in the circuit, not whether or not the fan itself is running. I think I used 18 or 20-gauge wire for my installation as the LED draws very little current. Good luck and Merry Christmas. Just connect a wire from the positive side of the fan motor to one lead of your indicator light. Connect the second lead from the light to ground. I used a red LED lamp purchased from Radio Shack and mounted it to the fan's On/Off switch plate. Remember to connect the wire to the fan motor itself, not to the positive side of the thermostatic switch. Connecting to the thermo-switch will only tell you there is power in the circuit, not whether or not the fan itself is running. I think I used 18 or 20-gauge wire for my installation as the LED draws very little current. Good luck and Merry... » Read More Just connect a wire from the positive side of the fan motor to one lead of your indicator light. Connect the second lead from the light to ground. I used a red LED lamp purchased from Radio Shack and mounted it to the fan's On/Off switch plate. Remember to connect the wire to the fan motor itself, not to the positive side of the thermostatic switch. Connecting to the thermo-switch will only tell you there is power in the circuit, not whether or not the fan itself is running. I think I used 18 or 20-gauge wire for my installation as the LED draws very little current. Good luck and Merry Christmas. « Show Less
1239875
I would go on line to the company and ask for one. The remote that mine came with only worked for a couple of weeks then it quit. I tossed it out and we just use the switches. Turn on the back power button first then push the front power button to on, then set your temp. Make sure your electrical circuit is large enough to handle this unit. It should have its own plug and heavy duty circuit. If the cord gets warm after using it for a while, your circuit is not heavy enough.
1907754
The thermocouple is part of the wire harness for the fan, so you would have to somehow find out about the thermocouple, purchase one just like it and then wire it into the wire harness for the fan; not impossible, you would just have to know about the thermocouple; you don't need the thermocouple because you can turn on the fan on mentally without using the thermocouple to turn the fan on
279552
Go to the manual and call the number. They must get this call a lot because they had a step by step to get it lit the first time. I don't remember the steps, but they had me detach the hose, hold the switch, have the flow real low... It worked and once it got primed the first time, it's lit easily ever since.
743467
Thanks for your response. I was having trouble picking up the temp from the base. I think the batteries were low (duh.. pretty obvious..). I put in new batteries on both units, repeated the sequence a couple of times and... voilà! I think I've got the hang of it now. A handy little device.
1955856
That's odd. Mine wont go any lower that 240. The trick is to act like you are shutting it off, but not all the way. So between on and off, you can get the flame adjusted much lower. Only other option is to buy a different regulator. Hope this helps! p.s. Double check your actual temp with an oven thermometer. Gauge on the door is not very accurate.
532115
Aurelia, let me go check out the manual, which by the way, really does stink; I must admit the manual stinks. Lookit that: not only does it not mention the wattage range, there is no Underwriter's Laboratory information. Nor is there an information regarding the engine's power. I guess we would mark this up as a con. I do not see a switch on the machine from 110/120 to 220/240.
193309
O.k. Thanks! I'll try that tonight. I saw that short knob and I keep messing with it, but nothing is happening. I think I'm not doing it right though so I'll try again and maybe get someone to help me. When I jiggle and pull the knobit, do I pull on the base of the machine at the same time? Just making sure I understand what to do here. Thanks again!
1696396
There are actually two thermostats for the fan. One is in the fan itself and turns on at 100F. There is a separate thermostat which is taped to the fridge burner tube and closes or opens the flow of electricity, that one turns on at 140F. Both thermostats need to be on to activate the fan. I had issues getting the fridge burner tube thermostat close enough to the burner to reach 140F so I just wired in a manual switch in place instead for that one.The fan works great. The difficult part of the install for me was that I had to remove/reinstall the fridge vent at the roof. That was the only location where I had enough space to fit the fan. There are actually two thermostats for the fan. One is in the fan itself and turns on at 100F. There is a separate thermostat which is taped to the fridge burner tube and closes or opens the flow of electricity, that one turns on at 140F. Both thermostats need to be on to activate the fan. I had issues getting the fridge burner tube thermostat close enough to the burner to reach 140F so I just wired in a manual switch in place instead for that one.The fan works great. The difficult part of the install for me was that I had to remove/reinstall the fridge vent at the roof. That... » Read More There are actually two thermostats for the fan. One is in the fan itself and turns on at 100F. There is a separate thermostat which is taped to the fridge burner tube and closes or opens the flow of electricity, that one turns on at 140F. Both thermostats need to be on to activate the fan. I had issues getting the fridge burner tube thermostat close enough to the burner to reach 140F so I just wired in a manual switch in place instead for that one.The fan works great. The difficult part of the install for me was that I had to remove/reinstall the fridge vent at the roof. That was the only location where I had enough space to fit the fan. « Show Less
675637
I need to know what items are being controlled i use pids for oven controls .ter 3&4 for thermo couple 6&8 are forsolid state relay 12 is com 9 & 10 are power 1 is relay circuit normaly closed and 11 is normaly open II hope this help let me know what elements or fan
1958997
I had the same 2 wires on my old thermostat, and I found the answer in one of the responses to a review that was already on the site, by A. Pico: "I was in the same situation: two unmarked wires that when connected turn the furnace on. Simple. However, in my case, the trick was to connect them to positions R and W." Mine worked when I connected them to R and W also; does not matter which goes to which, and I did not take off any jumpers.
1327131
I am not an electrician, I had one put mine in and I don't remember exactly what he did. Sorry. There may be instructions with it.
2203505
kerry, i had a lot of help to get this thing going. between radiowerks and my teckie. if i understand my teckie right, once you change anything on the router, you start all over. off the top of my head i would do a total reset of everything. also move the module to the opposite side of the thermostat. i did have my module replaced.i hope this was of some help!glenn funck 602 992 6667
121551
I would love to help - but mine was put in by a contractor (on several tries) who said the fan/vent/heater was a b---- to put in, even with the special wall switch. I hope you get it figured out, because the fan/vent/heater is wonderful and I am glad I purchased it.