I've an arbor arch at beg. of my wlkwy & a downlight. Arbor is made frm cpl arches of metal prob abt 1.5inch in dia. each. Cld I mount this?
1792615
Hello, you shall be mountable or by a bit hardware DIY modified, if you can send some images of reference that will be better for understanding........Thanks s lot for considering our eLEDing product!EESGI support
1792616
Make sure light has a full sun at least few huaursMake sure the light has a full sun at least three hours a day.
414854
You can take out the supplied spud adapter and just mount it directly on a light stand or c-stand. I'm guessing your stand has a 1/4" stud and the supplied spud is 3/8". You can also get a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter.
2166412
It comes with bolts, nuts and 2 straps of fairly strong metal. You just need to figure out what angle works for your mounting. I also recommend using a low strength thread lock, just to keep the nuts from coming loose and getting lost.As I said Im my review, I put in amber bulbs and larger pastic holders where these bulbs go and maybe you want to re-drill the holes a little where the screws go. Where they put this thing together, they didnt care about fit and finish.
2110749
No way would I take this arch up and down. There are too many screws and could strip the screw holes if taking up and down. I installed it in cement and it has withstood all kinds of weather and finish is as good as when new. I would look for some other type of arbor if you would like to take it apart on a regular seasonal basis. I love the way it compliments my side yard leading to the back.
1743014
If I remember correctly. There should be 1 or 2 screws on the bottom to attach the plasic mount to the metal unit. You should be able to get to them and tighten them.
1481487
It is up to you. Use a shorter screw for thinner wood. It's not heavy, even with glasses. But very thin wood (1/8" or less) may not be strong enough for any permanent fixture.
324708
You probably have to answer that one for yourself. The bottom 2mount holes are @2 3/4 inches apart. I put mine on a piece of aluminum angle I fixed to the top of the mast. Its pretty straight forward installation you just got to dream up the method on your own. Light works great though. Perfect anchor light, and about 1/3 what I would have paid from WM.
87560
The small brass ring brings it down from 7/8" to 20mm. This doesn't fit a 5/8" arbor as listed here.
1325138
hi from colorado, i would get additional hardware, and gorilla glue, i mounted ontop of a lamp post outside my home, and it works great and very secure....goodluck
1338330
Do a search on amazon for arb lightbar bracket. It's a hundred bucks and mount well to the a post using existing bolts
1100798
I can see how that would work where the arch comes together in the middle. I actually added another short bolt to each side for more security. Wish it was deeper, so I bought two of them to make it twice as large, putting them back to back and painted them gloss black, did not like the rustic rust color.
1743651
Not as it is. You would need two 2 by 4's with holes drilled in them to set each side of the arch's legs into for stability.
1885819
I don't know. I put an undermount in. You should get ahold of Kraus and have them tell you.
1824729
Hi Barbara, It's not that easy to mount them. But with shine skills your will be aible to do it. Andre
1053927
Try calling Lifetime customer service. They were very helpful answering my mounting question.Ken
612960
Yes, This arbor came with 4 additional pieces of rectangular white rail that are 16 inches long and that fit (telescopically) inside of the openings in the legs of the arbor. These are used to anchor the arbor into the ground and to level the arbor. Once the four posts are secured in the ground either with soil or cement, the arbor's legs fit right over them. Then when you get each of the arbor's legs exactly where you want them, and it is level, there are screws that secure the arbor to the posts.
1187758
The hole saws are bi-metal and welded construction (not 'pot' metal), and these saws should work fine on the thin skin of a metal door. A few drops of oil and a slow speed can keep the saw in good shape. The plastic fixture should work fine -- just keep the drill alignment true to keep from cutting the fixture. However (per my amazon review), my arbor and hole saw failed on the first try because of several significant design issues. 1. My arbor was not threaded all the way to the backing plate -- this allowed the large hole saw to 'cut' its own threads on the arbor. Since the threaded base of the large saw is only several threads thick, it didn't take long before the assembly stripped. 2. Also, the large saw (2-1/8" diameter) can create lots of torque on the 'small' threaded arbor/saw interface. Note that high quality hole saws with a diameter greater than 1-1/4" typically are mated with a quick change arbor with locking pins that keep the destructive torque away from the 'weak' threaded interface. If you already bought this product and your arbor is not threaded down to the backing plate, I would suggest the following. Add several 'spacer' washers between the saws and arbor -- this will keep the small hole saw from getting 'stuck' on the arbor, and the large hole saw from stripping the threaded interface. Run the drill at a slower speed and don't push hard. The metal skin should drill easily, however, I think drilling through the wood under the metal will produce much more torque. Just be easy on the drill and it should survive.