Wiring of the LED? Three terminals: 1,2, &amp; 3. 1&amp;2 appear to be closed when ON. #3 40 ohms to 1&amp;2 in either polarity. Resistor to #3? Polarity LED??
1562498
I'm not sure how to answer this for you. But in my experience these items have a high fail rate. We used them to turn power on and off to a stereo.
1444620
The manufacturer does not include instructions with this product. The + and - on the back of the button are for the 12VDC input (regulated) for the LED. The red bar on the back of the button separates the remaining contacts that 'close' when the button is depressed. Ensure you connect your circuit to the contacts on either side of the red bar. Also, please note the switch is rated at 0.25A max. Please use a relay if your application needs more amperage.
1865495
Certainly sounds like you wired it correctly. Just remember that LEDs are polarity sensitive, so make sure your positive is on the red wire. If that is confirmed, then I have nothing more to suggest.
1373275
Yup, three wires out of the led. I used a load resistor and replaced my busted blinker housing with it
1979149
Odd, my 12v model only had 2 wires, Brown and Yellow, and being 12 I didnt think it mattered which was which, but generaly, I chose the brighter of the two(yellow) as the +, and installed an in line fuse, works fine, bright as hell. Id rate it at nearly 1000 lumen when connected to my Deep Cycle 12v Boat battery.
1893142
Mine came with a presoldered lead with a barrel connection on the end. The other end of the spool had four pads, one is labeled "+12" and the others were blank. I removed the lead and desoldered the two wires. For each one of the other pads you attach to your negative lead, you will turn on one set of LEDs. If you look in the customer photos, you will see how I soldered on 4, solid core wires for control of each set of LEDs. When you connect all three pads to negative, it is the brightest.
281458
The SMDs (LEDs) work on 3-3.6V. The current draw is between .02-.03A. There are 12 of these on each bulb. If you take the max values it comes to 1.296W ( 12 x .03 x 3.6). There might be some resistors that might be drawing some power. But overall you are doing way better than the factory bulbs. Update: I did a google search on these LEDs ( 1210). Vendors mention a consumption of .08 W per LED. For 12 it comes to .96W ( 12x.08).
1671847
My light just had brown (brown/red) and blue. I used brown/red for positive (red) and blue for negative (closest to black of options provided). It works. I didn't have yellow w/green stripe. Green is usually a ground, but don't know why there would be one on a 12v DC device.
1979147
On mine, there were two solid colored wires (blue & brown?), and one (yellow) with a stripe. When I opened the back of the light, I found that the striped wire just ended and was not connected to anything. My guess is that they found 3-lead wire cheaper than 2 or 4-lead so that's what we get. The other two solid wires seem to work interchangeably as + or -, so they apparently added circuitry to make them idiot-proof.Short Answer:Striped wire: Not usedOther two: Connect to 12V DC
1037573
I agree with T. Thomas, sounds like reversed polarity - it's easy to do as the documentation is not very clear on the wiring.
632921
install a 1k ohm resister in parallel with ONE of the bulbs. The leads will fit under the caps. I have done this and it works. You only need to do this if you have exit delay lighting.
688281
Since we're dealing with diodes I'd say polarity needs to observed. The good thing is you no harm if it's not right. It just won't light.
2001306
Unfortunately like most LEDs the fixture containing the bulb is closed. Unless you are familiar with fixing electronics by testing circuits to determine which part is bad, you must replace the whole unit. For what it's worth, my understanding is LEDs have a super long life and its usually a resistor that goes bad before the led circuit chip that you see light up. The units themselves are very well built. Used a male plug adaptor from Harbor Frght. Currently have two to light up the house from 25 feet away wih cool color light. Have worked now nightly for two years no problems. Would purchase again! Unfortunately like most LEDs the fixture containing the bulb is closed. Unless you are familiar with fixing electronics by testing circuits to determine which part is bad, you must replace the whole unit. For what it's worth, my understanding is LEDs have a super long life and its usually a resistor that goes bad before the led circuit chip that you see light up. The units themselves are very well built. Used a male plug adaptor from Harbor Frght. Currently have two to light up the house from 25 feet away wih cool color light. Have worked now nightly for two years no problems. Would... » Read More Unfortunately like most LEDs the fixture containing the bulb is closed. Unless you are familiar with fixing electronics by testing circuits to determine which part is bad, you must replace the whole unit. For what it's worth, my understanding is LEDs have a super long life and its usually a resistor that goes bad before the led circuit chip that you see light up. The units themselves are very well built. Used a male plug adaptor from Harbor Frght. Currently have two to light up the house from 25 feet away wih cool color light. Have worked now nightly for two years no problems. Would purchase again! « Show Less
478771
You need to buy separate resistors. I bought the putco ceramic ones with these. You need one per side. Keep in kind these LEDs are less bright than stock, but give the LED look(instant on off).
389476
I'd send the bad one back. It should last longer. The LED part is probably good, the circuitry sometimes fails. Can't remember the warranty, thought it was a year.
1455697
You have one lug for power in, one lug for a ground to ground the switch and the third for power out to accessory. If ungrounded then the led on the switch won't be illuminated .
940706
I'm planning to use a 9v battery to light up 2 or 3 of these LEDs; I see F. Solano has used a 200ohm resistor to accomplish similar, but Kapowzer claims a 1k resistor? Any advise re: which to use would be appreciated - thank you.