Is anyone encountering picture Judder when selecting Auto Motion Plus Standard, Smooth, or Custom? I am having this issue and normally have to set this paramter to Clear to avoid this. I prefer the other settings to Clear because it gives a more live...
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D. Mauro, Different signals and devices will vary. The good news is that each input is independent, so it's designed so that you can set each input to "Clear" or "Smooth" or whichever setting you most prefer for that specific input. This way, every time you switch to a different device, you don't have to change your settings. Why it's juddering? It could be signal strength or more specifically, signal compression that causes that. For some networks - or hardware - the signal needs to be compressed, and decompressed. That can have an affect on the playback. Or it could be a number of other factors as well, like the resolution that's incoming (480 to 4K, 720 to 4K and 1080 to 4K will all look different), so check your source's video menu (Blu-Ray player, Cable/Sat box, etc) to make sure you're getting at least a 720p or higher resolution, or that it's set to AUTO. Those factors can also affect picture quality. It's probably NOT the cable, we can probably fairly rule that out. Does that help? --Mr. S
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The LED Motion Plus is a little different than AutoMotion Plus, even though the terms are similar, they mean something different. So I'll explain those differences here. LED motion plus uses a breakthrough technology `Local Dimming'. The majority of LCD televisions use a cold-cathode fluorescent lamp (CCFL) to power the picture. This back light is unable to be turned on and off with speed. The tv is backlit (backlighted?) by an array of light emitting diodes (LED). Because of this, sections can be turned off independently and will greatly increase the black levels on the set. So it helps with brightness, panel bleed, and color variances as well as the darkest darks. AutoMotion Plus fixes the inherent problem of motion blur. This has been inherent since the conception of LCDs. Traditionally, a CRT or other type technology will pulse the picture and and then go black - and the human brain can process this image. With LCDs, the image stays on the pixel until that individiual pixel is "told" to change to a different color, and the brain will process that "lag". Since LCD's can't pulse frames to reduce this, another way to improve the movement was to double the frame rate to 120 and have a frame of video repeated. So instead of inserting a black frame between the frames, we use interpolation which intelligently inserts a frame that is processed between the 1st and 2nd frame. That's the heart of AutoMotion Plus. In turn, the AutoMotion Plus processing feature in the menu allows you to select the level of interpoloation that happens, thus customizing your picture based on the source that looks the best to you. I hope that helps explain the differences.
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The best pictures BY FAR come from the camera by using the handheld anti-motion blur mode. I can't explain why (I've read the explanations) but I have tested and compared and color, exposure, sharpness are noticeably better that way. If shooting in Program mode, leave the sharpness on lowest setting. White balance sometimes needs to be set to daylight manually. Set DRO to default or High. Those are just some things I've learned to get the best pictures out of this model. The Sony software that comes bundled has an outstanding "Fix" button, which adjusts the photo once you've downloaded it from the camera. It saved several poor, difficult shots and made them much better. Overall, I love my HX1!
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Michael. I have also read about people turning off the 120Hz. Seems strange that a feature that should "improve" fast motion needs to be turned off! Any owners out there have anything to add? I would love to hear from you.
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Hello Leslie, I haven't explored the video capabilities in depth, but just with base settings, I've been pretty happy with the video capabilities. The images come out clear with smooth fps. I guess it depends on what level of quality you're looking for, at a hobby level, it's been awesome and I am able to use the still photos for my professional work.
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I've learned not to mess with it. I would just stick with standard because it still looks great, then I use "game mode" for games which automatically moves it to standard, and does some other things to enhance processing and sound. I haven't played around with the modes since, but I may go back and do the Pixar settings test they have on their Blu-Ray movies to modify standard a bit for more contrast...
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I'd be curious about this as well. I bought a standard definition FS200 which had really grainy, poor video quality. I'm ready to pay extra for the HD version but would like to know how you like the video quality of of the HF200 so far.
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I'm not having any color casting problem at all. I would think using a grey card would correct it, or set balance to the flash setting if its not already. I have been just shooting auto white balance. What I find most helpful is U-tube tutorials: it's how I learned everything about my camera, speed light, strobes and softboxes!
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I figured out the aperture mode. This seems to be where the HS10 can take decent pictures. NOT pleased with exr auto, that is a crap shoot. So I am still so confused as to what camera is right for me. So frustrating. Still need to try the video as well. Oh, the free sony software was easier to use. I am having so many problems with SilkyPics. sends pics to my windows photo shop poorly, sometimes combining two pictures. GRRR
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I have been trying to do that same thing. Some scenes get messed up by the auto-exposure. A couple steps down in the settings you can change how bright or dark the picture is but that pesky auto-exposure is still active. Let's hope if they ever put up another firmware update that they include that functionality like when they added the timer function.
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Did you ever resolve the problem? I'm having the same problem. I can't get a quality picture something standing perfectly still - like my christmas tree! My ISO is set to 100.
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I wouldn't suggest using gaming mode. It greatly diminishes the picture quality, and for some games it butchers the colors. I would simply turn off Auto Motion Plus and you should be fine. I currently don't have AMP turned on for any of my sources, as it's benefits don't outweigh it's flaws. I am using a PS3 and I play dark souls, drakes 3, elder scrolls, etc and they all allow for fast reaction time.
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Picture & color quality are excellent. Only complaint is that, at least on the 65-in model, you can't turn off "motion interpolation" aka "Smooth motion" aka "soap opera effect". It's on full-blast on the 65-in.
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Anthony: I used to have a JVC Everio, the first model out some years back. I loved the size of the thing, and it took great still pics. The only thing I didn't like was the .MOD file extensions for the videos. It was, quite frankly, a pain in the butt trying to deal with the vids. I ended up selling it. I don't know if they corrected that .MOD nonsense, but somehow I don't believe so. Go with the SONY (my opinion). Congrats on the baby :-) Mike
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i too had problems with blurring and out of focus shots, ive used the camera a lot recently, and was getting annoyed that close up shots were rubbish, until a friend said try turning off the image stabilizer, i did, close up pics look much sharper, i only use the stabilzer now for long zoom shots, isnt that what its suppose to be for anyway, maybe it aint suppose to be on all the time
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Personally, I haven't had a problem with minor movement or taking a picture on the move, briefly stopping for the pic, and moving again. We just completed a trip to Europe, and the photos were fantastic. Sharp and clear. But I think it's up to you and how steady you think your hands are. Most new cameras today, like Sony, have image stabilization. But there is a point where stabilization and shaky become two different things.
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S. Grubbs, I'm having the same problem. Turning off Auto Motion Plus doesn't fix the problem. The closest thing to a solution I've found is setting Auto Motion Plus to "Clear." That fixes the problem for some non-HD programming on cable, but for the HD stuff on Netflix, Vudu, etc. (and I'm assuming for DVDs) the problem is still there.This really sucks. The effect is, put simply, NOT WHAT THE FILMMAKERS INTEND. Otherwise they would've shot the movie that way. Screw this new technology.