reclaimed wood Has anyone used this planer on reclaimed wood? I have an old shed built about 100 years ago out of chestnut. I tore the building down but want to use the wood for the cathedral ceiling of my house, plus I took out the ceiling of the house and it is rough cut oak which I would like to use on the floors. reclaimed wood Has anyone used this planer on reclaimed wood? I have an old shed built about 100 years ago out of chestnut. I tore the building down but want to use the wood for the cathedral... » Read More reclaimed wood Has anyone used this planer on reclaimed wood? I have an old shed built about 100 years ago out of chestnut. I tore the building down but want to use the wood for the cathedral ceiling of my house, plus I took out the ceiling of the house and it is rough cut oak which I would like to use on the floors. « Show Less
1809779
You could also get a handheld metal detector, and use a wire brush to brush the boards. . you also need to lookout for rocks, dirt, or other small dense objects
348050
Hello Valerie, used wood and planers are a touchy subject. I recommend taking a belt sander with a rough grit and expose the surface for any hidden nails...etc. Then at least you will wear out a belt instead of a costly set of planer knives...Makitas are great
1809780
Aside from the previous mentioned nails as well as insuring the boards are flat ahead of time (if a board is bowed going in, it'll be bowed coming out) this planer will handle that job. I ran 180 year old rough heart pine beams through this planer and it did a great job. Unfortunately I did miss a nail or too a chipped the blade but this planer did great job!
232781
Yes I have split seasoned maple and red oak, large diameter logs with no problem. The only real limitation of the machine is the length of the log. I continue to be impressed with it. Only thing is that you have to get it off the ground some for working ease. There are good you tube videos of it in action, one i posted.
1949191
Boy, that could be a tough one - if you haven't already, try contacting the manufacturer. If that doesn't work (and I bet it won't) you might try finding a lumber store that caters to woodworkers and sells nice wood. Any hardwood (oak, mahogany, teak) will probably work. Problem will be that the standard sizes they sell probably won't match the slat. Most stores like that will cut the wood for you - length is not problem and maybe even width (they would need to cut a long strip off one side, called "ripping") however if the thickness isn't right they would need to plane it down and that might be more difficult. Good luck. Boy, that could be a tough one - if you haven't already, try contacting the manufacturer. If that doesn't work (and I bet it won't) you might try finding a lumber store that caters to woodworkers and sells nice wood. Any hardwood (oak, mahogany, teak) will probably work. Problem will be that the standard sizes they sell probably won't match the slat. Most stores like that will cut the wood for you - length is not problem and maybe even width (they would need to cut a long strip off one side, called "ripping") however if the thickness isn't right they would need to plane it down... » Read More Boy, that could be a tough one - if you haven't already, try contacting the manufacturer. If that doesn't work (and I bet it won't) you might try finding a lumber store that caters to woodworkers and sells nice wood. Any hardwood (oak, mahogany, teak) will probably work. Problem will be that the standard sizes they sell probably won't match the slat. Most stores like that will cut the wood for you - length is not problem and maybe even width (they would need to cut a long strip off one side, called "ripping") however if the thickness isn't right they would need to plane it down and that might be more difficult. Good luck. « Show Less
948370
I don't use it fr hollowing wood, instead I use it to "grind" off corners on frames I have glued up for drums. Works so much better than using the electric plane used in the past - faster and a better job.
940902
The hardwood looks like the wood used on the trim of sailboats...after years of nature weathering it...but it's new!!! Ours has been in our outdoor lanai here in Florida for about 1 1/2 years, and we've done nothing to them but use them and enjoy them. Enjoy these great products.
987305
I would think as long as the wood is structurally sound overall you could use it. You need to remove all the rotted wood that can easily be scraped away and get to the good wood that is too hard to remove. Then use the hardener. Then poly coat it the next day. This should not be confused with products that supposedly seep into the rotted wood and harden it all up....this is used to harden the wood not quite rotted so the damage does not continue. Whether you fill the areas removed is up to you.
649523
You can have your current blade resharpened. I purchased the Oshlun -SBW164032 32 tooth beam saw blade as a replacement blade and it works very well for cutting beams and logs.
119720
Yes. I have used it for douglas fir, soft cedar, and white pine with good results. The advantage of this plane is that it is easy to change blades, allowing you to use different bevel angles for different woods.
901030
Matt I've been using it to cut Birch plywood and it seems fine but bogs down a bit. I think its the blade it came with because many people have said its poor quality. I'm planning to get a new one and see how it goes. Make sure to make a score cut on veneer plywood to avoid chip-out though. Also the track is in two sections and tends to move at the connection. Check your measurements well on long cuts. If I had the money for the name brand saws I would have bought one but I went in 50/50 with my father in law on this one. Don't get me wrong its good but you have to work within its limitations. Matt I've been using it to cut Birch plywood and it seems fine but bogs down a bit. I think its the blade it came with because many people have said its poor quality. I'm planning to get a new one and see how it goes. Make sure to make a score cut on veneer plywood to avoid chip-out though. Also the track is in two sections and tends to move at the connection. Check your measurements well on long cuts. If I had the money for the name brand saws I would have bought one but I went in 50/50 with my father in law on this one. Don't get me wrong its good but you have to work within its limitations.
172312
Hi Melody,I hate to burst everyones bubble here, although it is made from solid wood, they threw a veneer on the top of it (I know this because mine arrived with the veneer peeling off). So if you do plan to refinish it, have fun with that top veneer.
683862
I have used it for only a few hours on hard wood and gotten excellent results and have had no trouble to date. I am careful to take only small cuts each time as I don't like to overburden any tools. It sounds to me like a rubber burning odor is caused by belt slippage when trying to take more aggressive cuts. Bob Heller
1162124
As well as a hand plane, but much faster and taking less muscle. The surface will have a slight dimple effect because the planer blades rotate instead of slice in the direction of the hand plane movement. Bit more sanding afterwards. I have used power planers for this on red oak, maple and pine and it worked quite well.
1128380
To date, I have only planed alder, cherry and walnut. Recognizing the limits of ANY of the smaller planers, I tend to take more passes with less wood removed with each pass. I have had zero to minimal issues with snipe with this machine right out of the box.
1170296
I would advise only doing upper deckers. This will ensure it to look like new for a very long time.
1528597
I have used this on plywood on several occasions with great results. With the four blade inserts and the 24 tooth outer blades I have had no complaints on any material I have used this on. I have used it several times a week for around two years and the carbide still looks great. It is by far the best dado set I have used in my 25+ years of woodworking. I would buy it again without question. Good luck.
129158
Yes. Mine doesn't quite line up correctly, but that's my fault for not chiseling it out well enough. You may have to chisel out a section if it doesn't exactly match what you had before, or (gasp) even fill in a hole with wood putty, let dry HARD, then chisel out a small section. Not hard, but harder than what I felt like doing just then. It's pretty nice and way cheaper than some of the architectural sites for almost the exact same thing.
1537260
I don't have an answer for you, just a "share." I purchased this arbor several days ago and received it so promptly I haven't had time to get it out of the box; just a quick look at the directions. My previous arbor was "redwood," the Sam's Club version of it anyway. It served me well for about 10 years but the support beams rotted off at the ground. I had wisteria on my previous arbor and after about 5 years, even with a lot of cutting back to the ground, the larger vines broke the cross beams out of the side pieces. When I took the old arbor down, it took a chain saw to loosen a lot of the vines, they were so twisted and thick. Again, I cut this stuff down to the ground annually. My goal with the new arbor is maybe a climbing rose or some sort of climbing vine that is not as thick and heavy as wisteria. If you receive a definitive answer, please post. Thanks, Judy