"The man tried to make his way back to shore when the friend jumped in to help him."  That's his first and biggest mistake that probably cost him his life.  As kids, we were taught by our parents and other kupuna, that if we ever get knocked down by a wave on the shore, swim OUT, and DON'T try to scramble back on shore because the next wave of the set will cream you......SWIM OUT and safely tread water until help arrives.... If he only knew......