For Rachel's birthday, her husband took her out to the river. They set up a blanket on the beach and enjoyed a picnic. After they ate, they went for a swim. When they got bored of that, they went and bought some ice cream.

"I said 'Hey guys,' " she recalls. She was so happy when he told them about his new car — it had been built in 18 months! He wanted one too because there were no other cars left at home: There would be nothing else

"I was like 'Oh my God,'" she says now with an airy smile as we walk down Lake Michigan in our kayak back home from Alaska last summer when I asked if it would be nice being able go swimming again after having been away so