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Re-trimming a Triumph Spitfire or GT6 Tunnel
Cover

Park
Lane Classics - 'How to...' Article 1

Related Items:

Trimming is
Simple...
with the right instructions!

(copyright
O. Lloyd 2006)

A
smart interior is important for any classic car to look good. For a
classic convertible it is absolutely essential. As soon as you flip the
soft top, your car’s interior takes centre stage. You can chrome every
component under the bonnet but it will be wasted if your seats, dash and
armrest have gaping splits. All those weeks getting the panel gaps perfect
will be ruined if your door boards are warped and crumbling.

The good news is that retrimming your classic car interior is well within
the capabilities of the average owner. It’s easy for me to say that…
I’ve been trimming for well over a decade so I have a bit of a head
start.

I
want to prove to you how simple trimming can be if you have
the right instructions.

Here
is a copy of the instructions from my Triumph Spitfire & GT6 tunnel
recovering kit. I sell these on ebay and through my website: www.parklaneclassics.co.uk

I
chose the tunnel cover because it is an ideal starter piece for a novice
trimmer:·the
shape is fairly basic
·it
introduces widely used trimming methods
·my
kit costs next to nothing!

Have a
read, have a look at my website and then have a go yourself… it’s
simple!

Cheers,

Owen

Some trimming pointers…1. Keep warm - vinyl will stretch, foam will compress and glue will stick much better.2. Patience - you don't have to rush trim so take the time to get it "just right" and you will be rewarded every time you sit in your car.3. Tension - this is the key to a professional finish. A tight cover compresses the foam which prevents wrinkles.4. You're NOT alone - if the instructions are not clear or things are just not working out don't hesitate to contact me!
Cheers, Owen.

1.
In the kit:
1. Scrim foam
2. Cover panel
Note - Impact adhesive is best for this trim e.g. Evostik or Timebond.

2.
Remove the tunnel cover from the car. Remove all vinyl, foam and old
glue from the metal frame. Place the foam panel with the 'scrim' gauze
face down. Position the frame centrally on the foam with the two legs
towards the narrow end of the panel.

3.
Glue the foam to the frame and trim flush with the edge of the
frame. Note - If the foam panel appears too narrow to cover the legs
then bend them inwards slightly (it is easy to distort the frame when
removing it from the car)

4.
Place the cover panel with the vinyl face down. Position the frame
centrally on the panel with the two legs towards the narrow end of the
panel. Starting from the middle of the frame, stretch the cover over the
edge and glue it to the back face of the frame. Glue both long edges in
this manner followed by the end piece. This is just the first fix so
don't cut any of the cover yet - wait until step 6.

5.
Turn the tunnel the right way up to check that that cover is reasonably
flat and straight on the frame. Turn the tunnel upside down again and
cut a Y shape in the cover between the two legs. Stretch the middle flap
over the edge of the frame and glue in place. Repeat for the other two
flaps.

6.
Turn the tunnel the right way up to check for any creases or bagginess,
adjusting the tension of the cover where necessary. Once the cover is
smooth turn the tunnel upside down again to glue the ends of the legs.
To get a smooth finish around the larger curves cut two V notches above
and below. Stretch and glue the middle flap first then the sides.

7.
Your tunnel is now retrimmed. Any excess adhesive on the cover should be
left to dry and then rubbed off with a finger. Impact adhesive takes 24
hours to achieve full strength so it is best to wait until the next day
before refitting the tunnel to the vehicle.