ho chi minh city previously known as saigon and still often referred to as such is a metropolis on the up construction cranes crowd the cityscape which is rapidly expanding covid19 was a brief interruption in vietnam’s seemingly unstoppable economy which has recently rebounded past previous expectations saigon leads the surge centered by the iconic landmark 81 vietnam’s tallest skyscraper completed in 2018 ho chi minh city sprawls across the flat mekong delta stopped only by snaking cuts of the soupy saigon river  it was this feature which leads out into the south china sea 50 miles south that has provided its wealth as a major port since the 19th century today the city’s economic boom is driven by an influx of foreign firms such as samsung apple and nike relocating from china as well as a flourishing it and tourism industries since its days as a seedy but sophisticated french colonial capital to its time as a wartime bastion saigon has long been associated with a certain kind of edgy romanticism as it charges into the 21st century vietnam’s largest city of some 9 million souls is reconfiguring its oldtime allure with a bigger more modern face   the city has undergone many such reinventions from 1862 to 1954 it was the capital of the french protectorate of cochinchina after that it was the bombarded capital of south vietnam until 1975 after communist forces prevailed against the americanbacked south vietnamese army in the vietnam war also known as the second indochina war unifying the country under oneparty communist rule the capital shifted north to hanoi but the city remains vietnam’s economic and cultural powerhouse   its finest hotel both in terms of style and location is the park hyatt saigon with 245 rooms and nine floors the french colonialstyle hotel is decked out with gorgeous vietnamese art pieces and exquisite amenities including what must be saigon’s finest outdoor pool a verdant oasis in a bustling metropolis some of saigon’s best shopping is located just outside of it in the heart of district 2 one of the most developed parts of ho chi minh city in the evenings a jazz band entertains in the splendidly regal lobby lounge on the ground floor   for those who like their city hotels a bit higher there is the twentyfloored sofitel saigon plaza which recently opened after nearly two years of pandemic closure their pool is also nice as is their reset spa and other facilities there is even an inhouse barbershop the 18thfloor view from the club millésime is superb as is its beef pho to get as close as possible to the slowgoing saigon river check out le méridien saigon a fivestar marriott property located on the riverfront   vietnam boasts one of the world’s great food cultures though there are strong opinions as to whether hanoi or saigon boasts the country’s best cuisine the latter city poses a strong argument for itself saigon’s celebrated street food is spectacular famed for its banh mi sandwiches and pho noodle soup but there is a finedining scene that is very much worth exploring too start with anan a popular cozy restaurant in district 1 featured on the prestigious asia’s 50 best restaurants list its name means “eateat” its elevated complex takes on vietnamese food spans the regional varieties of the country such as the bánh xèo tacos and the onebite pho nhau nhau the small rooftop bar above it is always packed   newer to the scene but just as impressive is coco a vietnamese finedining concept led by chef vo thanh vuong the young tattooed winner of vietnam’s top chef 2019 the dimly lit expansive restaurant which contains a separate whiskey bar with live jazz features a set menu of beautifully and tastefully crafted small plates like raw scallop with fermented tofu and wasabi sorbet and iberico pork in vietnamese herbs with black truffle and cognac sauce also newly opened is elgin a chic eurovietnamese fusion restaurant named after the famous hong kong food street it features inventive dishes like fresh roti with duck leg confit and apple slices and pork belly with fried brussels sprouts the cocktails are fantastic too lovely libations abound in ho chi minh city a local favorite is rabbit hole an upscale bar with an elegant yet psychedelic aesthetic located near the kingly independence palace kohei’s bar located down a dark alley near the regal saigon opera house has stupendous drinks too always with locallysourced ingredients japanese owner kohei yamamoto is a colorful conversationalist   for something casual wander the hip unpretentious bars lining the alwayspopping pham viet chanh street birdy makes a great gin and tonic with a vietnamesemade gin song cai   and lastly do not miss out on the lifechanging hot chocolate at maison marou a popular cafe cum chocolatier and coffee roastery founded in 2011 by two frenchmen there are a few locations though recommended is the flagship in district 2 also known as thao dien travelers to saigon will find plenty of pleasure in simply wandering districts 1 2 and 4 eating and drinking whatever comes their way there are lots of food tours which provide just this recommended is saigon street eats run by an australianvietnamese couple  history buffs can visit the independence palace also known as the reunification palace the former seat of the south vietnam government that has been little altered since the american evacuation in 1975 more sobering is the war remnants museum   there is fantastic shopping all over thao dien a hip expat enclave with cafes and stylish boutique shops in the late afternoon or early evening take an hourlong ride on the saigon waterbus for enchanting views of the sparkling city   the writer was hosted by le méridien the park hyatt and the sofitel