With its extraordinary, pre-Hindu candi temple complex Gunung Kawi and the holy springs of Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring still breathes the atmosphere of ancient legends and long lost tales of forgotten Balinese kings who
With its extraordinary, pre-Hindu candi temple complex Gunung Kawi and the holy springs of Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring still breathes the atmosphere of ancient legends and long lost tales of forgotten Balinese kings who lived in an obscure but important period of Balinese history.
The candis of Gunung Kawi
At one of the junctions of the busy main street of Tampaksiring a sign reads, “Objek Wisata Gunung Kawi”. The side street leads to a small parking, a little laid back from the main street of the village. From there a stone paved path leads down into the valley of the sacred river Pakerisan, with stunning rice field views on the way.
Before long one reaches a small stone gateway which gives access to the remarkable, ancient candi temple complex of Tampaksiring, which borders the sacred river Pakerisan. The ten candis of Gunung Kawi represent the largest and the best preserved examples of the 15 candis presently known in Bali. It’s very likely that there are more of these typical candis in Bali, buried by a succession of seismic events and landslides, awaiting discovery.
The term candi refers to the abode of Candika, Goddess of Death, and consort of Lord Siva. The rock-hewn candis are a wholly Balinese phenomenon, unknown elsewhere in the world.
However, they take their general form from the free-standing candis of East Java, which show very similar architectural forms and decorations. Also the candi constructions show strong Indic influences, as this type of extremely labor-intensive, rock-hewn construction is fairly common in India.
The candis of Gunung Kawi are believed to be constructed in the 11th century (1080 AD) by king Anak Wungsu in honor of his father, the great Balinese ruler Udayana. Contrary to what is often believed, the candis are not tombs, for they have never contained human remains or ashes.
In this respect they are rather considered to be symbolic secular accommodations to house the members of the defied royal family when they are invited down during temple festivals, similar to the rites that are still held today during the temple festivals of ‘modern’ Balinese Hinduism, as shaped by Nirartha in the 16th century.
The candis at Tampaksiring are divided into three separate sections. Four minor candis of Tampaksiring can be found at one side of the river, five major ones at the other side and, often overlooked by visiors, a tenth candi a little laid back from these major and minor clusters. There is evidence that the candis of Tampaksiring were probably once protected within two massive rock-hewn cloisters. In shape the candis resembl