tinny , drum-heavy music blares out from the shop windows , and there 's such an onslaught of smells , my nose does n't know what to breathe first : curry coming out of the patisseries , the ferric tang of blood from the giant animal carcasses being trundled through the street , the sweet and exotic smell of incense smoke , exhaust from the cars and motos , the ubiquitous smell of coffee-though there are n't so many of the big cafes here , the kind that take up an entire corner , but more smaller , ad-hoc ones , bistro tables shoved onto the sidewalk .