all the plates , of some hideous local ware , bore the jingle , irritatingly inscrutable , 'jamais en vain , toujours en via ' , and the surly waiter , stale with 'fin de saison ' , had served him with the fly-walk of the pate maison ( sent back for a new slice ) and a poularde and la creme that was the only genuine antique in the place .