[header] How to surf a wave [title] Rent or borrow a surfboard with a leash. [step] A foam board or a long board are the best choice for a beginner. [title] Get to the beach. 
[title] Enter the water with your board under your arm and attach the leg leash to your rear ankle. [title] Lie flat on your board and paddle to the area where the waves begin to crash, with your head in the front of the board.