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I plug my ears with silicone earplugs , I put barrier creams on my skin to keep the water off my skin , rinse off when I get out . So here 's where I find myself when my soul finally catches up to my body : I am sunburned and barefoot and trudging along an Indian riverbank of mud and sand and human remains . And sometimes the distance yields a dot , which in time becomes a man soaping himself in the current . I lurched out of bed and stumbled to the bathroom . As we drove off , I asked Annerino , " So what 's the deal with the clean clothes ? Although he had no idea in what direction he was going , he told himself that he could still return to his car . About halfway up , he lost his footing and began to tumble down the long grade , arresting himself only by chance . We have been assigned a guide and official minder , Abbas Jafari , as we would never be allowed to negotiate this part of the country alone . The magic , I have been told , is otherwise too much for them . He picked himself up and moved next to her . As she did n't complete her search , I want to find the canyon and look for myself . I probably have a number of strikes against me , coming as I do from a family of hard-core atheists who have always viewed belief in such matters as an egregious character flaw . " " I told him he had to have a permit or I 'd ticket him . An autocrat , this bemused-looking figure wields absolute and often brutal control over all aspects of Iranian government and society.Khamenei and his hard-line colleagues are the reason why all the women I see , including foreigners and non-Muslims like myself , are required by law to wear hejab , or Muslim women 's attire , over their normal clothes . A local man , whom we paid to guide us for the day , points guiltily to a hillside pockmarked with holes : the site of a looted Bronze Age grave site.There are scores of them in this region , a place that was unmapped and unexplored well into the 20th century due to the ferocity of local tribes who had a reputation for killing any outsiders they encountered . When I was ten he took my brother and me climbing in the Wind River Mountains . Another thing Sivulliq told me : The weather on Prince Charles Island is awful , and thus it 's very easy to get marooned there . " The whole community thanked me very much . ) I walk through Imam Khomeini Square , named after the man himself , the Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini , whose fierce , omnipresent stare defines modern Iran . It does n't haunt me like it did , but it reminds me how incredibly lucky I am to be here . We pedestrians would cough at each other like beagles released from a tobacco laboratory . He closed his eyes briefly and told himself , once again , to wait .