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A grizzled old Californian , he had sailed his Lion class boat , built in Hong Kong out of solid teak with beautiful dragon carvings on the bulkhead , alone from the US , and had cruised for some years around the Pacific . With Ian she did the world-famous Crypt Lake hike , which starts with a refreshing boat trip across the windswept waters of Waterton Lake to land on the other side , climbs steeply past Hell Roaring Falls , carries on for miles and miles up a glaciated side valley , switchbacks interminably and very steeply up to a 20 metre tunnel in the rock through which you have to crawl ( leave your claustrophobia behind on this trip ! - - though the biggest problem in this one seemed to be how to keep the ducks out of the swimming pool , not a dilemma that Ian recalls from his student days . We hiked along canyons , through high alpine meadows filled with wild flowers ( and the occasional ptarmigan ) , by azure lakes , past lofty waterfalls , up to crystal glaciers riven by huge crevasses , and over many passes . Joanne Luland was alone with her children when the blaze broke out because her partner was in jail . To the west we looked far out to sea ; we could see Taranaki way to the south , Ngauruhoe ( Mt Doom ) and Ruapehu far to the southwest , and almost to Auckland in the north . Setting off along the sand to the south , we were astonished to catch a glimpse what could only be an enormous factory or power station shimmering in the distance through the heat haze . She got a little temp work , but spent a lot of time alone in the house during the day . You come on deck at 3 AM in pitch black with the boat tossing about and only the angry swirling foam around you visible , at 3:00:30 AM a wave comes over and drenches you completely , and you're alone with just shivers and thoughts to keep you company until being relieved at 6 AM , still pitch black .