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) The weather had been abysmal , all the earlier ferries having been cancelled , but there was only this one window of opportunity . But while the walking was arduous at times , the landscape and views were varied and stunning - - at one point we even caught a glimpse of Mount Cook far away in the central South Island . - - we were on the move again last year , and spent Christmas , though thanks to El Nino a not-quite-white one , in the Canadian Rockies , a perfect end to our six-month visit to Calgary . We dodged the Staten Island ferry ( not as easy as it sounds , they go so fast , relentless and merciless ) and sailed out to the Statue of Liberty , then watched the sun setting behind the World Trade Center on the way back . Well , this year , feeling bullish with the new engine , we made it , nosing into the cove behind Arch Rock .