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So instead of working on habitat recovery , animal recovery , or maintaining the wilderness character of the refuge , we've become a de facto Border Patrol as well as a search and rescue group . It 's time now to say goodbye to Abbas , who hates us , and to try our hand with a new guide , a Mr. Soufi , for the remaining days of our trip.And how to describe Mr. Soufi ? On Grettir 's first journey outside his home district , he killed a man in a brawl , setting into motion a series of events that ultimately resulted in his being declared a " full outlaw , " condemned to wander the wilderness with a price on his head . " Iceland , the last great wilderness in Europe , has few old buildings and no castles or palaces . " I was here at this spot for a week . His father raised his right hand three inches off his knee as a greeting , but said nothing more . Di Rosa wanted us to see what was happening to the wilderness , so he offered to take us out on one of the " administrative " roads that are closed to the public . Quite fortunately for me , Exley , who had worked at much greater depths and was in complete control , reached down , took my hand , and towed me up to a depth of 60 meters ( 197 feet ) . On the small tape recorder beside his chair Philip Griffin turned up the volume and let the music fill the space between them . My chest was on top of it , and my hand was over it , " he says . " " I told him he had to have a permit or I 'd ticket him . " [ Our ] road trip through the wilderness of southern Utah is Abbey 's blessing writ large : nearly 200 miles [ 322 kilometers ] of crooked , winding , and lonesome roads and trails with views that will have you reaching for your camera .