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The bamboo yoke across my chest is connected to 50 feet [ 15 meters ] of nylon cord , which in turn is connected to the wooden skiff that has been my kitchen , bed , and conveyance for the past four days . Often controversy is spurred by a teammate who has left an expedition . Featuring the only permanent ice cap in the Northern Hemisphere and a rugged , desolate coast that makes Alaska look like the Jersey Shore , Greenland is a wilderness unlike any on Earth . My chest was on top of it , and my hand was over it , " he says . In the middle of it all is the ice cap — a mile-thick cake of solid H20 dating to the last ice age and skiable from coast-to-coast . ) What they all have in common is a willingness and an ability to fly in conditions that would give the average commercial-airline pilot chest pains . You 'll find no shortage of lightweight choices . Without hesitating , he gripped his ice ax across his chest and rolled onto it , digging the pick into the icy snow to stop the fall . Di Rosa estimated that there were 75 Sonoran antelope in all of Arizona.We returned to the truck and rose over Charlie Bell Pass , a rock-strewed joke of a road , then began our slow descent into the Growler Valley .