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Unmarried couples stroll — illegally — hand-in-hand . For my last evening in Death Valley I heed a Van Valkenburg tip and head into the sand dunes under a full moon . " " You 'll see how it works soon enough , " he said.Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service . Though California still pulled at him , on this marathon journey Ruess discovered the landscape with which his soul truly resonated . If anything important was going on , Louis would tell him soon enough . They know that soon a zookeeper will give them the vegetables Amelia has grown and delivered to the zoo . Soon I find myself hovering over a stingray with a five-foot [ 1.5-meter ] wingspan and a four-foot [ 1.2-meter ] tail . Soon a lightning storm came rolling in , and Killip descended from the exposed ridge to wait it out . I was wrapping up my interview with Norm Christensen , the Escalante old-timer who had befriended Ruess at age ten and gone to the movies with him on his last night in town . " There are wealthy urban Africans that are paying a premium for so-called prestige meats like gorilla and elephant , and they are also sometimes exporting them illegally to African expatriates in Europe and elsewhere .