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We really did rise at dawn , helped by a rainy night that thoroughly tested our ancient backpacking tent and found it sadly lacking . It really is a lovely view : you can see right across to the other side of the Lough , and check all the boats coming up and down . She also enjoyed the costume museum , which was showing costumes of film and television productions of Jane Austin 's books with an accompanying audio-guide that recounted the scandals and gossip behind the scenes . Imagine a hundred thousand books in tottering heaps on the floor in a room maybe 10 feet by 15 , threaded by a snaky passageway that you can just squeeze through to a miniscule desk at the back . For us it has been hard spending a whole year without her , particularly when she has been miserable on the other side of the world . The town is bisected by a wide river valley , the Oldman River ( just keeps rolling along ) , which cuts deep into the surrounding high prairie .