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We proceeded by car up the west coast to stay with Ian 's cousin Lorraine in Dargaville , and then pushed on , often on gravel roads , staying as close to the sea as possible-up the west coast and down the east . They brought with them about twenty recorders ranging from the two metre great bass to the tiny garklein the size of your little finger - - just half of their collection . She also enjoyed the costume museum , which was showing costumes of film and television productions of Jane Austin 's books with an accompanying audio-guide that recounted the scandals and gossip behind the scenes . We dodged the Staten Island ferry ( not as easy as it sounds , they go so fast , relentless and merciless ) and sailed out to the Statue of Liberty , then watched the sun setting behind the World Trade Center on the way back . By the time she returned Pam was saturated with music , but nevertheless glad to leave behind the night-time coughs , snores and wheezes of dormitory accommodation . Low walls have been built up around bed-sized depressions where native Indians traditionally lie for days , observed only by the relentless sun 's scorching rays , naked , without food or water , until they receive enlightening hallucinations and are led half-dead down the mountainside to recover . Some weeks later Nikki and Ian returned for a day 's kayaking down the more adventurous upper reaches of the same river with many of the same friends . The response was very positive , and she has been asked to do the same thing again next year - - there is already a waiting list of enthusiastic potential students . Back in Calgary the weather was perfect for hiking and we made the most of being so close to the Rockies . Ian was working at a conference , of course , but Pam found it a hospitable place with colourful old wooden buildings that opened directly on to narrow cobbled streets just wide enough for a bicycle , with a gutter down the middle to channel away rain and melted snow . At one point the boat speed hit 10.3 knots as we surfed down the back of a huge wave-before this day we had never exceeded 7.5 knots .