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A harvest moon , so large and low in the sky that it appeared to be painted on the black of night , sat on the horizon , seemingly side by side with the carnival ride . Abandoned by his countrymen , he made his solitary way across the land , battling enemies and Iceland 's bizarre environment ( often manifested in evil spirits and fearsome trolls ) . As Hafez is one of my favorite poets , I make a pilgrimage to his tomb.His grave rests in the midst of a fragrant park , full of rosebushes and birdsong . It 's time now to say goodbye to Abbas , who hates us , and to try our hand with a new guide , a Mr. Soufi , for the remaining days of our trip.And how to describe Mr. Soufi ? Over the next few minutes , Jeremy went through the series of questions Alvin had proposed and learned the following : Her middle name was Marin ; she had majored in English ; her best friend in college was named Susan ; purple was her favorite color ; she preferred whole wheat ; she liked watching Trading Spaces ; she thought Jane Austen was fabulous ; and she would , in fact , turn thirty-two on September 13 . On Grettir 's first journey outside his home district , he killed a man in a brawl , setting into motion a series of events that ultimately resulted in his being declared a " full outlaw , " condemned to wander the wilderness with a price on his head . " " You 'll see how it works soon enough , " he said.Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service . While I snapped photos of the sunset , the boatman scanned the roiling current with eyes wizened by lifetimes of river sun .